TIME - Cellini

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CUFF AND RING WITH FANCY YELLOW AND
WHITE DIAMONDS SET IN 18-KARAT GOLD
FANCY YELLOW DIAMOND RINGS
FROM OUR EXCLUSIVE COLLECTION
COLLECTIONS
16 A. LANGE & SÖHNE stands out in a crowded field of chronographs
with the memorable design of its 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar.
20 AUDEMARS PIGUET draws on its rich history of aesthetic and technical
achievements for the cushion-shaped Tradition Grande Complication.
24BULGARI enjoys the sweetness of success with the Jumping Hours
and Retrograde Minutes models from its new Berries collection.
28CARTIER conjures some mystifying watchmaking magic with
the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Double Tourbillon.
36CHOPARD pays moving tribute to its legendary floating diamond
watches with the Happy Sport Medium Automatic.
46 DE BETHUNE brings together traditional style and advanced
materials to create the ultra-rare DB16 Tourbillon Regulator.
50 GREUBEL FORSEY challenges convention with high-performance tourbillons
that cheat gravity like the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Asymétrique.
54HYT makes the dream of a portable hydraulic timepiece a reality
with the signature liquid display in the limited edition H2.
56IWC honors the legendary Mercedes-Benz W25 Silver Arrow racecar
with the Ingenieur Chronograph Silberpfeil.
58JAEGER-LECOULTRE celebrates 180 years of accuracy and enduring style with the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee.
70 LUDOVIC BALLOUARD blends tradition and imagination to invent surprising
ways of reading time with watches like the Half Time.
72 MAÎTRES DU TEMPS adds intrigue to haute horlogerie with indications
hidden behind sliding panels in the Chapter Three Reveal.
76 PARMIGIANI FLEURIER finds inspiration in its famed restoration
atelier for the Ovale Pantographe’s telescopic hands.
80PIAGET shines on the red carpet with elegant jewelry timepieces
like the dazzling, full-pavé Limelight Tonneau.
82 RICHARD MILLE serves up an ace with the RM 27-01, the latest
version of the model worn by tennis champion Rafael Nadal.
86 ULYSSE NARDIN delivers a command performance of the unforgettable
melody from “Strangers in the Night” with the Stranger.
90 VACHERON CONSTANTIN tailors the lines of its tonneau case
to give the Malte Tourbillon a sleek, streamline profile.
94ZENITH launches a new wave of pilot watches with the high-flying
Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 Tourbillon.
FEATURES
8 LUXURY LANDMARK Cellini Jewelers narrows the spectrum
with black and white diamonds, and then unleashes it with colorful
opals. Explore 36 years of watchmaking trends with our timeline.
40 COVER STORY One of Switzerland’s oldest clock towers,
the Zytglogge has also been a guard tower, women’s
prison and Albert Einstein’s muse. Discover the
exciting life of this medieval landmark.
62 CULINARY CAMEOS Whether it’s the mood,
the food or the drinks, brunch is in a special
category all its own for New Yorkers.
See our top picks for a great brunch.
98CLOCKWISE A glossary
of horological terms
ON THE COVER
This iconic clock tower has been an instantly recognizable part
of the skyline in Bern, Switzerland since 1405, when residents first
dubbed it the Zytglogge, which means “time bell.”
EDITOR IN CHIEF
MICHAEL GRAZIADEI
ART DIRECTOR, PHOTO DIRECTOR
SAMANTHA HICKEY
MANAGING EDITOR
SCOTT HICKEY
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
JONATHAN BUES
AMY COHEN
VICTORIA GOMELSKY
KEN KESSLER
ALEX LEE
ELISE NUSSBAUM
COPY EDITOR, CONTRIBUTING WRITER
RACHEL YOUNG
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
DAVID KATZ
BJÖRG MAGNEA
FOR A COMPLIMENTARY
SUBSCRIPTION OR
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION,
PLEASE CALL
8OO.CELLINI
VISIT OUR WEBSITE AT
www.CelliniJewelers.com
STATUS is an annual publication
by Cellini Jewelers.
Copyright ©2013
Reproduction without permission
is prohibited
ON OUR WATCH
W
elcome to the latest edition of Status. As we enter our second decade
of publication, I would like to acknowledge the importance of the
watch enthusiasts to the mix of components that make up haute
horlogerie. The patrons of this art form are critical to the continued
development and advancement of fine watchmaking. Watch enthusiasts range from
people who love to learn about watches, to collectors, and ultimately to the brand
owners themselves. Enthusiasts encourage the master watchmaker both as an
artist and technician. The result of this synergy is evident throughout this issue.
In the pages that follow, we invite you to discover the diversity of models and
brands that foster creativity and continue to successfully integrate innovation
with traditional craftsmanship. Next, our Culinary Cameos feature explores several
oases throughout New York City where you can enjoy a relaxing brunch in a nonrushed atmosphere and unwind from a hectic week. Finally, a highlight of this
year’s illustrated glossary is a discussion of tourbillons with Stephen Forsey, the
co-founder of Greubel Forsey.
We hope you enjoy this issue and always welcome your feedback. If you would
like more information about the brands or any of the timepieces in this issue,
please call us at 800-CELLINI or email us at Status@CelliniJewelers.com. Look for
the online version of Status in the Catalogs & Publications section of our Website
at www.CelliniJewelers.com.
Michael Graziadei
Editor in Chief
CELLINI JEWELERS
C
Timing is
ellini Jewelers’ extensive collection brings together many
of today’s top watchmakers,
but through the years, it’s also served
as a crucial launching pad for the
brands of tomorrow. Before they
were popular among collectors, firms
like A. Lange & Söhne, Breitling,
Franck Muller and Hublot all found a
welcoming home at Cellini. Today,
Cellini remains an influential tastemaker as it focuses the spotlight on
emerging talents like De Bethune,
EVERY
THING
A talent for breaking watch brands in America
has made Cellini Jewelers the place to see
what’s next for almost 40 years.
1982
1983
Cellini
adds
Ebel.
1977
1980
1983
1977
1978
Cellini opens
in the Hotel
Waldorf-Astoria.
8
Blancpain famously
declares: “There has
never been a quartz
Blancpain watch.
And there never
will be.”
Quartz watches
outsell their
mechanical
counterparts
for the
first time.
Audemars Piguet
and Omega are part of
Cellini’s original collection.
The Swiss
watch industry
struggles to
adapt to
quartz technology
as scores of
brands shutter
during a period
known in the
watch world
as the
“quartz crisis.”
The Swatch watch
debuts. In less than
two years, 2.5 million
are sold. The phenomenal success helps
revive the Swiss
watch industry.
TRENDS
1980s
Brands were offering basic mechanical movements as a way to compete with
the price of quartz until Blancpain came out with its famous tagline proudly
proclaiming that it would never make a quartz watch. A few years later, people started coming back to mechanical timepieces and many high-end brands
turned away from quartz. As the modern watchmaking renaissance began to
unfold, Cellini opened its second boutique at 509 Madison Avenue.
TIMEPIECES
“Watches on bracelets were especially big, like Cartier’s Tank and a model
called the Must de Cartier,” Adams recalls. “Breitling did exceptionally
well with its line, but one of the biggest standouts was Ebel. The brand
had two major hits, first with the Wave and later with the Beluga.”
The
“quartz crisis”
ends and
the Swiss
watch industry
comeback
begins.
Cellini
adds Chopard
and Breitling.
1985
1987
1989
1987
1985
1984
Cellini adds Blancpain,
Baume & Mercier and
Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Audemars Piguet
introduces the first
series-produced
self-winding tourbillon
wristwatch.
1988
Greubel Forsey, HYT and Ludovic
Ballouard.
“There was no grand design
to become some kind of trendsetter. How do you even plan something like that?” Cellini President
Leon Adams asks with a chuckle.
“We do what we’ve always done,
which is share brands that we
think are unique and innovative.”
This chronology illustrates
how Cellini stays ahead of the
times.
Cellini adds
Hublot and
Vacheron Constantin.
Cellini opens its
second boutique at
509 Madison Avenue.
Cellini adds
Breguet, Cartier
and IWC.
9
CELLINI JEWELERS
Cellini
adds
Gerald Genta.
1998
2001
2002
2002
2001
1994
1995
Cellini celebrates
its 25-year
anniversary.
Cellini adds
Franck Muller and
Girard-Perregaux.
Cellini
adds
Ulysse Nardin.
Ulysse Nardin pioneers
silicon in watchmaking
with the original Freak.
Cellini
adds Panerai
and Piaget.
TRENDS
TIMEPIECES
TRENDS
Complications, especially tourbillons, were coming into vogue
as Cellini expanded its collection with a range of high complications. Both Cellini boutiques became the only places
in metropolitan New York to
f i nd ma ny of th e h ottest
brands, like A. Lange & Söhne,
Daniel Roth and Franck Muller,
as well as rare, limited edition
timepieces.
“As people learned more about
watchmaking, the popularity of
complicated watches took off,”
Adams says. “Brands like Roger
Dubuis were producing some crazy
movements. So was F.P. Journe with
his Chronomètre à Résonance, and
Girard-Perregaux with the Opera
One and Opera Two. But during
that time, no one could touch
Franck Muller. It overshadowed
everything else by a huge margin.”
This most recent era was defined
largely by technology as brands
began to adapt materials and production techniques developed by
industries like aerospace and auto
racing. These advances opened up
new possibilities and helped empower a new generation of independent watchmakers that found
a home at Cellini, including Richard Mille, Maîtres du Temps and
De Bethune.
2000s
1990s
10
Cellini adds
F.P. Journe and
Roger Dubuis.
1999
Cellini adds
A. Lange & Söhne
and Daniel Roth.
1994
IWC introduces
the first ceramic
watch case.
Cellini adds Bell & Ross,
Giuliano Mazzuoli
and Maîtres du Temps.
2013
2012
2010
Cartier unveils its
Fine Watchmaking
Collection.
2011
Cellini
adds
H. Moser & Cie.
2008
2007
2005
2004
Cellini
adds
Richard Mille.
Cellini adds
Backes & Strauss,
Bulgari and HYT.
Cellini adds
Ludovic
Ballouard.
2008
Cellini adds De Bethune,
DeWitt, Jean Dunand
and Parmigiani Fleurier.
Cellini
adds
Zenith.
Cellini
adds
Greubel Forsey.
TRENDS
TIMEPIECES
Cellini continues to spotlight
the ongoing evolution of watch
movements with Ludovic Ballouard’s intriguing creations,
Greubel Forsey’s radical reinvention of the tourbillon and
HYT’s liquid time display. “The
H1 by HYT has a uniqueness to
it that has Cellini written all
over it. If anyone was going to
showcase that watch, it was
going to be us.”
It’s still early, but Adams says
this may turn out to be the decade that women move away
from quartz watches and embrace mechanical watches. “Before 2010, women did not want a
watch with mechanical movement, with the exception of Rolex
automatics,” he says. “Now, more
women are seeking out mechanical movements, Franck Muller’s
Cintrée Curvex in particular.” ¨
Present
TIMEPIECES
“The highlights came thick and
fast,” Adams says. “Panerai’s entire collection did phenomenally
well early on. People really got
into Richard Mille thanks, in
part, to his RM 010. Collectors
started to discover the beautiful
work being done by H. Moser.
And Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking
Collection made a huge impact
by combining its style with a
wide range of complications.”
11
CELLINI JEWELERS
Gradient
BEAUTY
Opal may be October’s
birthstone, but Cellini gemologist
Lauren Goldsmith says the glowing
gemstone is one that should be
celebrated all year.
BY SCOTT HICKEY
REPEATING PATTERN
While it’s true that each opal is unique,
Goldsmith explains that many do exhibit
recurring patterns. “Harlequin has a checked
design that’s the easiest to recognize, but the hardest
to find,” she says. There are several extremely desirable
patterns in opal, including the prime examples of ribbon, palette
and pin fire found in this necklace. It features boulder opal, an exotic
variety that is native to Australia and found only in ironstone boulders.
12
All photographs by David Katz
“T
here’s nothing else quite like it,” she explains. “Instead of
having one color like most gemstones, opals channel the entire spectrum. That’s what makes them so versatile – they go
with anything.”
But opals are more than just adaptable accessories. Cultures
around the world have prized its iridescent beauty for thousands of
years. Many believed it possessed mystical powers and could do
everything from predict the future and improve eyesight, to make you
invisible.
The fascination with opals lives on today, only with less superstition and more science. About 50 years ago, scientists finally demystified the phenomenon responsible for the gemstone’s telltale rainbow
effect. Examining an opal through an electron microscope revealed
that it’s composed of hydrated silica particles. These transparent
spheres are arranged in uniform grids that diffract light into the
countless colors that create the opal’s signature kaleidoscopic display.
But it’s been the look, not the science, that’s kept this love affair with the
opal going strong, from the rise of the
Mayans to the fall of the Romans, and all
the way up to today. Even now, opal’s
popularity continues to grow as jewelry
designers dream up new ways to harness
its colorful pyrotechnics.
Goldsmith presents the full spectrum of possibilities with several new
opal pieces in the Cellini Collection. ¨
FITTING IN
Few gemstones, Goldsmith says,
are as wardrobe friendly as opal,
which works well either dressed
up or down. “This cocktail ring is
right on the edge — formal
enough for evening, but funky
enough to add a spark to the day.”
Jewelry designers are taking full
advantage of that adaptability
and showing off the opal in an
eclectic array of styles, from
clean-lined modern to this ornate
Art Nouveau dragonfly ring.
STYLE PROFILE
Precious opals range in colors from white to black. The most widely
recognized is white opal, which flashes its fiery colors against a
backdrop that can be semi-transparent, opaque and everything in
between. By far the most rare is black opal, its dark body serving as
the ideal canvas for nature’s spectacular light show. These drop
earrings star a cast of black opals surrounding vibrant tourmalines.
13
CELLINI JEWELERS
Point
COUNTERPOINT
BY SCOTT HICKEY
With two boutiques in Midtown Manhattan,
Cellini Jewelers is home to one of the city’s
most extensive collections of fine jewelry.
S
tyles may come and go, but Cellini’s reputation for excellence has defined it from
the start and never wavered. Nearly 40
years later, those impeccably high standards are reflected in everything from
the superior quality of the gems to the
attentive experts who are ready to
guide you through Cellini’s sparkling universe.
Undeniably impressive, the
scope of the collection satisfies
even the most diverse tastes,
running the gamut, from modern to classic and subtle to
show-stopper. Temptation beckons from glass cases aglow
with diamonds in every hue,
magnificent emeralds, rubies
and sapphires in handmade
settings, and strands of large
Tahitian and South Sea pearls.
Cellini goes beyond the
spectrum with a spectacular
collection of black and white diamonds that captures the fireworks
that fly when opposites attract. ¨
Blackened 18-karat gold brings
out the fire in these brilliant white
diamonds totaling 25.8 carats.
The design delights with its airy,
open arrangement and links
that move with the wrist.
14
All photographs by David Katz
Black diamonds interlock
with clusters of brilliant
white diamonds in this
18-karat gold zipper-motif
necklace. With 47.2 total
carats, it’s red-carpet ready.
Or, flip the script and dress
it down with a white blouse
and jeans.
These drop earrings
use the timeless
circle-in-a-circle design
to bring the opposing
elements of dark and
light into visual harmony.
Their versatile size makes
these earrings perfect
alone, or paired with
a large necklace.
Like sparkling figure eights, these earrings throw the
classic hoop for a loop with black and white diamonds
(7.6 total carats). The hinged design creates a seamless
flow of diamonds and is a comfort to wear.
15
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
Building
CHARACTER
Finding a chronograph is easy.
After all, they’re one of the most
popular watch complications
around. Finding one that stands
out, however, is far from simple.
F
BY
SCOTT HICKEY
or A. Lange & Söhne, memorable chronograph design is a point of
pride. The company’s recent past is rich with unforgettable
creations like the Datograph, a quintessential expression of the
chronograph form, and its modern descendant the Datograph
Up/Down. The German firm’s stable of thoroughbreds also houses the
incredible Double Split, the world’s only timepiece with two rattrapante
chronographs, and the Datograph Perpetual, which combines a chronograph, perpetual calendar and a large date display.
A. Lange & Söhne introduced the latest member to its celebrated
chronograph family this year in Geneva where it unveiled the 1815
Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar.
The firm produced the watch’s hand-wound movement in-house and
loaded it with functions, including a rattrapante (or split-seconds) chronograph, perpetual calendar, power-reserve indicator and a moon
phase so precise that will not require an adjustment until 2100.
AT THE RACES
The column wheel connected to the
blued-steel rattrapante hand is located
in the upper left quadrant, between
the hourglass-shaped clamps. The
perpetual calendar mechanism is out
of sight, sandwiched between the dial
and chronograph.
16
The creation of a rattrapante chronograph demands a skilled
watchmaker whose exacting attention to detail is needed to
orchestrate this highly complex movement. Turn the 1815
Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar over and you can see for
yourself the intricate gearing adorned with the firm’s
pristine finishing.
In terms of function, a rattrapante chronograph is capable of
timing two events that begin simultaneously, but end at different
times. It does this using two superimposed seconds hands that
split apart for separate readings. This is especially helpful during
a race between two competitors, as it allows you to measure their individual times simultaneously.
Lange ensures the watch’s mechanical pedigree by pairing the rattrapante with a classic high complication like a perpetual calendar. Despite
the watch’s cerebral nature, the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar
never feels like an academic exercise.
Undoubtedly, that’s a reflection of its appealing, well-organized dial.
Arranged in a classic cloverleaf formation — a reference to the look of
A. Lange & Söhne’s early pocket watches — the four sub-dials contain
eight different indications. The perpetual calendar information is displayed
on the left and right, while the small seconds and moon phase occupy the
bottom. At the top of the solid-silver dial, you’ll find the power-reserve
indicator sharing space with the chronograph’s minute counter.
The 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual
Calendar is the firm’s latest triumph
in the realm of exquisite chronograph
design. Produced in-house, the handwound movement comes in a 42mm
case made from platinum or rose gold.
17
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
BRIGHT IDEAS
The Lange 1 made an indelible impression on watch
enthusiasts nearly 20 years ago with its debut. Today,
the award-winning design is widely recognized as a
modern classic for its large date and distinctive asymmetrical dial.
The Lange 1 (38.5mm) eventually gave rise to the
Grand Lange 1, a larger incarnation that measures
40.9mm. Last year, the firm redesigned the Grand
Lange 1 with a slightly different dial and a more compact movement. As a follow-up this year, Lange unveiled
a new white gold version of the Grand Lange 1 paired
with a black dial. So it can be read in the dark, the watch
includes luminous indications for the hours, minutes
and power reserve.
A. Lange & Söhne conquers darkness yet again with
the Grand Lange 1 “Lumen” — its first watch with a
luminous large date display. To achieve this, Lange
From left: Following last year’s redesign of
the Grand Lange 1, the firm introduced this
new white gold version with glow-in-the-dark
elements.
18
developed an innovative approach that not only improves the date’s luminosity, but also adds a thrilling
twist to the Grand Lange 1’s design lexicon.
To make any watch legible in the dark, a photoluminescent material is applied to key parts of the dial.
This works well for things like the hands and chapter
ring because they are constantly exposed to light. The
same isn’t true for a date display, which is typically
shielded from the light by a solid dial. As a result, it
does not glow immediately after the date changes.
Lange resolved this shortcoming by using a dial
made mostly of tinted sapphire crystal, which allows
light through to the date mechanism’s luminous
elements. As a visual bonus, the dial’s see-through
sections showcase the action of the date mechanism
and reveal the overlapping circular perlage decoration
applied to the movement.
The Grand Lange 1 “Lumen” features a sapphire crystal dial that
ensures the photo-luminescent date display glows immediately after
advancing. Lange will only produce 200 watches in platinum for this
limited edition.
From left: The 1815 Up/Down’s 39mm case comes in yellow,
rose or white gold (shown here). Made exclusively by Lange,
the hand-wound movement’s 72-hour power reserve is full
when the subdial points to Auf, German for “On.”
The Saxonia Annual Calendar requires a calendar adjustment just once a year. Crafted in platinum, the 38.5mm
case houses Lange’s automatic movement, which is visible
through the clear caseback.
LIVING UP TO THE PAST
STYLE AND SOPHISTICATION
Named for the year that the firm’s founder was born, the
1815 collection exists to honor Ferdinand A. Lange’s
legacy with modern timepieces guided by the exacting
principles he used to make pocket watches more than a
century ago. The 1815 Up/Down delivers on this promise both aesthetically and mechanically.
The dial’s sophisticated simplicity conceals a handwound movement inspired by a design patented in 1879
by Otto Lange, the founder’s grandson. He created a
power reserve indicator with a gear system that spread
out laterally, not vertically. As a result, the movement’s
functionality expanded, but not its physical profile.
His space-saving concept inspired the modern design used for the power reserve indicator found in the
1815 Up/Down. Its movement, produced exclusively by
Lange, is 4.6mm thick, the same size as the movement
used in the 1815, a model that does not include a power
reserve indicator.
Reminiscent of Lange’s classic pocket watches, the
1815 Up/Down’s dial features a silver dial and bluedsteel hands for the hours, minutes and small seconds.
A fourth hand, positioned at 8 o’clock, indicates the status of the watch’s 72-hour power reserve.
If you were looking for a succinct expression of Lange’s
core values, it would be hard to top the refined design
and intuitive function of the Saxonia Annual Calendar.
Its namesake complication is among the most practical in watchmaking, a calendar that automatically
calculates the irregular lengths of months. The lone exception is February, which requires a manual adjustment. Produced in-house by Lange, the automatic movement also incorporates a moon phase indicator and the
firm’s signature large date display. Already available in
rose or white gold, Lange unveiled a platinum version
this year.
The Saxonia Annual Calendar is also one of the few
timepieces equipped with a zero-reset feature. When
the crown is pulled out, it not only stops the seconds
hand, but also returns it to the 12 o’clock position. This
simplifies the process of synchronizing your watch to
an accurate time reference.
It may seem like a small detail, but it reveals a great
deal about the brand’s dedication to improving the experience of wearing a watch. These little conveniences
— the ones you appreciate most as a watch owner — are
where A. Lange & Söhne truly shines. ¨
19
AUDEMARS PIGUET
The Tradition Grande
Complication’s 47mm
white gold case is fitted
with a movement that
includes a minute repeater,
perpetual calendar, moon
phase and a split-seconds
chronograph.
20
Grande
DESIGNS
Complication is a grande tradition for
Audemars Piguet’s watchmakers.
J
BY SCOTT HICKEY
ules Audemars and Edward Piguet unveiled their first grande complication in 1882, just seven
years after they started their company in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. More than a century
later, Audemars Piguet remains dedicated to refining the beauty and performance of one of
watchmaking’s most intricate challenges. In fact, no other brand has continuously produced
grande complications longer than Audemars Piguet.
But what is a grande complication? To be considered one, a movement must possess at
least three functions beyond basic timekeeping. While the combination is open to interpretation, certain kinds of complications must be included: timing (e.g. chronograph),
striking (e.g. minute repeater) and astronomical (e.g. perpetual calendar).
The modern incarnation of Audemars Piguet’s grande complication,
known as Caliber 2885, presents an impressive summary of more than
a century of tradition and knowledge. It’s used in four of the brand’s
five wristwatch collections, a clear indication of just how much
Audemars Piguet values this mechanism. Having already
appeared in the Jules Audemars and Royal Oak collections, the
movement debuted this year in both the Royal Oak Offshore
and Tradition.
LIVING HISTORY
The story behind the cushion-shaped Tradition Grande
Complication revisits a key chapter from the brand’s
early years.
In 1892, Audemars Piguet became the first company
to make a minute repeater small enough to fit in a wristwatch. Originally only found in pocket watches, this
complication uses sound to express the time — on command — by using tiny hammers to chime the hours,
quarter hours and minutes on finely tuned gongs.
Intrigued by this innovation, American industrialist
John Shaeffer commissioned Audemars Piguet to create
a one-of-a-kind, white gold minute repeater wristwatch
for him. As a special request, he asked that the hour
markers be replaced with the 12 letters in his name.
Today, that same watch is part of the collection at the
brand’s museum in Le Brassus.
Top: Made entirely
in-house, caliber 2885
is a self-winding grande
complication that represents
more than a century of watchmaking expertise.
Left: Custom made for John Shaeffer
in 1907, this minute repeater wristwatch
helped inspire the direction taken by
the modern Tradition collection.
21
AUDEMARS PIGUET
Above: Part of the Offshore’s 20th anniversary, this
Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph features a 44mm
case made primarily of black ceramic, a material that
is almost impossible to scratch.
Above: The bezel found on the 44mm Royal Oak
Offshore Chronograph 10 Days Tourbillon is made of
forged carbon, a strong and lightweight material
Audemars Piguet pioneered in watchmaking.
22
Audemars Piguet artistic director Octavio Garcia didn’t have
far to look when it came time to expand the brand’s universe of
unique shapes beyond the Royal Oak octagon, Millenary oval and
Jules Audemars circle. “A cushion shape was the natural choice,
and the John Shaeffer watch was a logical starting point,” he explains. “Everyone at the brand knows this watch. It’s an important
part of our history.”
But as Garcia explains, the inspiration it provided had less to
do with the shape of the watch and more to do with what it represented. “What it does so well is strike a balance between Audemars Piguet’s avant-garde spirit and its reverence for tradition.
That duality is one of the qualities that defines this brand.”
Another great source of inspiration for the Tradition was a
pocket watch the company made in 1923. Its elegant expression of
the cushion form foreshadowed the modern collection’s look,
while its complex movement pointed the way to its emphasis on
complications.
In terms of mechanics, the Tradition Grande Complication
sets the pace for the entire line. Its list of functions includes a
minute repeater, perpetual calendar, moon phase and a split-seconds chronograph. It even features a rare week indicator that
counts up the 52 weeks of the year.
ROYAL ANNIVERSARY
Both the past and present come together this year as Audemars
Piguet celebrates the 20-year anniversary of one of its most successful creations, the Royal Oak Offshore.
Technical ceramic is used for much of the 44mm black Royal
Oak Offshore Chronograph, including the caseband and bezel. It
requires formidable skill to shape this unyielding material, but
the effort isn’t wasted here. Clad in its new scratch-resistant armor, the sporty Offshore identity remains instantly recognizable.
The firm’s mega tapisserie pattern crisscrosses the dial, which
features a date window and a small seconds, plus two red-handed
chronograph counters and a red-tipped central seconds. As the
exceptions to the monochrome design, these small pops of color
truly stand out and further emphasize the presence of Audemars
Piguet’s chronograph movement.
The Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 10 Days Tourbillon
captures both sides of the brand’s personality by pairing a traditional rose gold case with an unconventional bezel made of forged
carbon, a space-age material made especially for Audemars
Piguet.
Designed to maximize depth, the openwork dial quickly draws
the eyes to the black anodized aluminum bridges used for the
tourbillon and the twin winding barrels. Dedicated enthusiasts
will surely appreciate the in-house movement, which is a rare example of an integrated chronograph. This holistic design integrates the chronograph into the movement, unlike most, which
add a chronograph module to an existing movement.
EXTENDED CELEBRATION
Just last year, Audemars Piguet marked the 40th anniversary of the Royal Oak
in epic fashion with the introduction of several interpretations of this trendsetting watch. One of the biggest highlights from the anniversary was the
Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon.
The tourbillon movement, one of the slimmest produced by any brand, deepens the Royal Oak’s historic connection to ultra-thin watches. It’s worth remembering that in 1986, Audemars Piguet was the first brand to introduce a series of
self-winding extra-flat tourbillon movements.
This stainless
steel model upholds
that tradition with
great distinction in a
case that is less than
9mm thick. Secured
by eight screws, the
Royal Oak’s octagonal
bezel frames the familiar petite tapisserie pattern covering
the dial, which can be
read in the dark
thanks to luminescent hour markers
and hands.
That sporty edge
is tempered by the
decorative attention
lavished on the movement. The handiwork
is visible from back,
where the clear caseback reveals the perThe Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon is fitted with one
lage on the mainplate
of the world’s thinnest tourbillon movements, which is
and the côtes de Gewhy its stainless steel case is less than 9mm thick.
nève finishing on the
bridges. It’s here, amid
the undulating lines, that you’ll find the gauge used to monitor the watch’s
70-hour power reserve.
Diamonds on the bezel add a glamorous touch to the Royal Oak SelfWinding. Ideally suited for smaller wrists, its 37mm case comes in either rose
gold or stainless steel. Both versions offer aesthetic flexibility. Making the
jump from relaxed to formal is as simple as replacing the leather strap with a
matching bracelet.
Despite the smaller size, the watch makes no concessions mechanically.
The movement, which Audemars Piguet produces exclusively at its manufacture, features a window display for the date and an engraved, gold oscillating
weight to automatically wind the mainspring.
It’s that steadfast refusal to compromise that keeps Audemars Piguet on
horology’s cutting-edge. ¨
Above: Calibrated for smaller wrists, the
rose gold Royal Oak Self-Winding measures
37mm in diameter and its octagonal bezel
is set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Above: The stainless steel version of the
Royal Oak Self-Winding features a silvered
grande tapisserie dial with luminescent
hands and markers.
23
BULGARI
Fruitful
ENDEAVOR
T
Inspired by jewelry, geometry
and the watchmaker’s own
history, Bulgari maintains a
focus on sophisticated movements in stylish surroundings.
BY ELISE NUSSBAUM
he firm melds its passions for daring jewelry and fine timepieces with its
new Berries Collection. A circular motif informs and guides the collection, evoking the vibrant color of the sweet summer fruit. Bulgari uses
the freshness of this aesthetic concept to play off the refined time display that gives the Berries Jumping Hours and Retrograde Minutes its distinctive personality.
In a charming departure from the conventional analog display, the hour
is indicated digitally through an aperture on the dial. Every hour, it switches instantaneously from one number to the next. It’s paired with a retrograde hand to show the minutes. The hand travels clockwise along a
180-degree arc before flipping back to zero at the top of the hour.
The 40mm rose gold case is set with 133 diamonds that are
accompanied by ripe-looking tourmalines, emeralds and
more. The signature Berries curlicue, which swoops across
the top of the dial, serves a dual purpose. Not only does it set
off the elegant jumping hour indication, but its curve also mimics the path of the retrograde minutes hand.
Discrete segments of mother-of-pearl provide a visual echo of
the way we carve up an hour into smaller pieces and furnish each
diamond marker with its own precious backdrop. A gold oscillating
weight, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, lends a final
grace note of luxury to this piece.
COLORFUL COMPLICATION
In addition to the
gemstones on its bezel,
the Berries Jumping Hours
and Retrograde Minutes
also features diamonds
on the dial and a pink
tourmaline on the crown.
24
The Berries Tourbillon Retrograde Hours explores another possibility of alternative display with a retrograde function that drives both the hours and minutes.
A whirling tourbillon at 6 o’clock interrupts what is normally a non-stop
march around the dial for the hour and minute hands. Forced to come up with an
unconventional solution, watch designers answered with an elegantly conceived
time display that proceeds in semi-traditional fashion until the hands reach the 6.
At this point, the hands speed counterclockwise along a 240° arc to a second 6, where
they continue their respective journeys. The dance of the time indication echoes not
only the constant movement of the whirling tourbillon, but also the characteristic
gem-studded loop-de-loop that frames the tourbillon carriage.
The 40mm rose gold case makes the most of Bulgari’s jewelry expertise with a
panoply of precious stones: 63 brilliant-cut diamonds (3.41 carats), two emeralds, a
pink sapphire, ruby, amethyst, two pink tourmalines and a tourmaline on the crown.
The automatic movement’s 64-hour power reserve is fueled by a gold oscillating
weight studded with 13 diamonds.
The Berries Tourbillon
Retrograde Hours’ marquetry mother-of pearl dial
gives each Arabic numeral
its own shimmering
backdrop. Diamonds and
gems surround both the
dial and tourbillon.
25
BULGARI
SIGNATURE STYLE
The Bulgari Bulgari collection started in 1977 after
two exclusive limited editions left fans clamoring for
more. The line’s aesthetic reaffirms the company’s ethos
and design philosophy, turning to ancient Roman coins
for bezel inspiration and the columns of Roman temples for the case’s imposing size.
Over the last few decades, the Bulgari Bulgari collection has evolved slightly but significantly with a
larger dial, narrower bezel and a more-ergonomic case.
Along with tweaks to the look, the collection also has
transitioned from quartz to mechanical movements.
Two additions to the Bulgari Bulgari family demonstrate the effectiveness of a sleek backdrop — in the form
of a black lacquered dial — for showing off masterful
complications. The Bulgari Bulgari Chrono stylishly
presents the function’s classic elements: two chronograph counters paired with a central seconds. The column-wheel chronograph, housed in a 41mm stainless
steel case, boasts 50 hours of power reserve, and its
snailed bridges bear the elegant côtes de Genève motif.
The Bulgari Bulgari Tourbillon brings the “king of
complications” to the brand’s iconic collection, framed
by a 41.5mm rose gold case. A mood of streamlined sophistication pervades the piece’s layout, with an inky
lacquered dial setting a dramatic stage for the utterly
minimalist rose gold hour markers and Arabic numeral
at the top of the dial.
From the front, a window on the whirling tourbillon carriage highlights the stunning mechanism. On the
opposite side, a transparent caseback reveals the côtes
de Genève that decorates the rose gold oscillating
weight. The movement, wholly constructed by Bulgari’s
artisans in Le Sentier, Switzerland, possesses 64 hours
of reserve power.
Top: The Bulgari Bulgari Tourbillon’s classic design
highlights the sophistication of the tourbillon, which can
be viewed from the front and back of the timepiece.
Left: The stainless steel Bulgari Bulgari Chrono’s sleek black
dial includes two chronograph counters, a small seconds
sub-dial and a discreet date display.
26
Bulgari also offers a dashing rose gold version of
the Octo. Its black lacquered dial provides a dramatic
backdrop for the date display, rose gold indexes and
Arabic numerals.
The sophisticated simplicity of the Octo family only
highlights the skill required to make all of Bulgari’s
pieces so effortlessly eternal. ¨
Left: The stainless steel Octo debuted this year with a
matching bracelet that’s decorated with alternating satin
and polished elements. Equipped with a screw-down
crown, the case is water resistant to 100 meters.
Below: The Octo’s 41.5mm rose gold case houses an
automatic movement that stores 50 hours of reserve
power. An octagon shaped inner bezel surrounds the black
lacquer dial.
GEOMETRIC INSPIRATION
Though an unconventional aesthetic choice for watchmaking, the octagon enjoys a rich history around the
world as a symbol of perfection, balance and harmony.
Its use as a design motif in the Octo collection evokes
not only Bulgari’s long Roman history, but also the collection’s future as a line of family heirlooms that transcend passing styles.
Elegant yet assertive, the stainless steel Octo is
paired for the first time with a matching bracelet. And
even though it gives the impression of being simple and
intuitive, closer inspection reveals the artful sophistication inherent in every piece that Bulgari makes. The
41.5mm case is made up of 110 separate facets that alternate between brushed and polished surfaces, each
one worked by hand.
This painstaking approach to the finish of each
component extends to the interior of the case as well,
where an automatic movement and its oscillating weight
rely on two barrels to store 50 hours of reserve power.
The snailed bridges bear the traditional côtes de Genève
and the mainplate has a perlage finish, both of which are
visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.
27
CARTIER
Grand
T
ILLUSION
BY SCOTT HICKEY
Now you see it. Now you don’t. It’s not magic, it’s Cartier.
he legendary maison first played the unusual
role of horological prestidigitator in 1912, when
Cartier unveiled the original mystery clock. It
mesmerized the public by creating the illusion
that the hour and minute hands were suspended in air,
levitating as they turned to indicate the time.
This beautiful deception is accomplished by placing each hand on clear discs that are stacked on top of
one another, like the layers of a cake. Kept out of sight
(behind the chapter ring) are the specially made gear
wheels that line the edge of each disc. They are responsible for rotating the discs so that the “floating” hands
indicate the current time.
In the century that followed, Cartier has continuously refined both the mechanics and aesthetics of the
design to create a rich history filled with ornate mystery
clocks. But this year, as the design entered its second
century, the mystery took an unexpected turn when Cartier introduced the first generation of mystery watches.
The Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Double Tourbillon takes the original idea to a thrilling new place by appearing to suspend the tourbillon in the opening on the dial.
Cartier watchmakers worked several years to unravel this mechanical enigma, expanding on the
original mystery clock concept to create something
unprecedented. The result is a novel, hand-wound
movement that is made entirely in-house by Cartier and
certified with the Geneva Seal.
complication. The mystery unfolds before your eyes as
the flying tourbillon not only rotates once every 60 seconds — like a traditional tourbillon — but at the same
time turns so that it orbits the mystery dial once every
five minutes. These dual rotations with two tourbillon
cages are the reason this mechanism is called a double
tourbillon.
To complement this mechanical marvel, watchmakers have crafted a multi-layer dial that reflects the refined design code that unifies Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking Collection. A 45mm platinum case holds it all
together while a blue sapphire cabochon perched atop
the beaded crown adds a finishing touch.
SOLVING THE PUZZLE
Like a mystery clock, the Mysterious Double Tourbillon
utilizes sapphire crystal discs that are integrated into
the gears of the movement. As if by magic, energy generated when the mainspring unwinds travels through
the gear train and powers the first tourbillon cage —
which is actually the lower crystal disc — as well as the
titanium flying tourbillon cage, which is mounted on
the crystal disc above.
This highly technical process unlocks the stunning
visual performance at the heart of this extraordinary
28
The tourbillon cage appears to float inside the Rotonde de
Cartier Mysterious Double Tourbillon. The flying tourbillon
not only rotates once every minute, but the entire mechanism also orbits the mystery dial once every five minutes.
A 45mm platinum case houses
the watch’s complex double
tourbillon movement, a Geneva
Seal-certified mechanism made
exclusively by Cartier.
29
CARTIER
TREASURED SECRETS
A similar mechanical sleight of hand is
employed to conjure the Rotonde de
Cartier Mysterious Hours.
Determined to channel the spirit of
the original mystery clock, Cartier successfully adapted its design at the firm’s
manufacture in Geneva, where it modified
and miniaturized the complex machine so
that it now fits comfortably on the wrist.
The result is a manually wound movement that faithfully recreates the mystery
clock’s unconventional time display.
As part of this process, Cartier developed new ways to maximize the energy
produced by the movement by reducing
the amount of friction caused by the rotation of the large crystal discs used to
indicate the time. To further optimize
performance, the firm formed gear wheels
around the crystal discs through a highly
As if by magic, the hour and minute hands appear to
levitate in the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hours.
Available in rose or white gold, the 42mm case features
a blue sapphire cabochon on the beaded crown.
advanced micro-fabrication process
that’s used to make complex components
for micro-machines. As a result, the dimensions of the gear wheels are accurate
to the nearest micron, which reduces
their inertia.
Much of this revolutionary design is
kept out of sight, even when viewing the
crescent-shaped movement through the
clear caseback. This subterfuge is a fitting tribute to the company founder Louis Cartier, who preferred to keep the magic behind the mystery clock a secret. It’s
also a subtle reminder that the leadingedge technology found in the Rotonde de
Cartier Mysterious Hours is simply the
means to a beautiful end.
30
LEAP FORWARD
A true mark of greatness is the ability to make the
incredible look effortless. This certainly applies to
the way Cartier’s design code naturally evokes timeless style. To appreciate this, look no further than
the Ballon Bleu collection. The case’s flowing outline
and striking blue sapphire crown form a potent
combination of visual hallmarks that make it easy
to understand the design’s immense popularity.
The firm emphasizes the watch’s technical
character with the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Tourbillon with Double Jumping Second Time Zone. As
the name makes clear, there is a great deal going on
mechanically inside the watch.
It’s rare that a flying tourbillon receives second
billing, but this dual-time zone function certainly
provides strong competition. Its modified regulatorstyle display adds to the intrigue. In a traditional
regulator, the hour, minute and second hands are
placed in separate locations on the dial. For this model, the central minute hand is used in conjunction
The 46mm Ballon Bleu de Cartier Tourbillon with
Double Jumping Second Time Zone includes a
C-shaped carriage above the flying tourbillon.
with two separate hour displays. The one with Roman numerals indicates the hour in the traveler’s
home city, while the other, with Arabic numerals,
shows the hour in the destination city.
But rather than being satisfied with this captivating configuration, Cartier goes one step further
by enhancing both hour displays with “jumping”
hands. Unlike most watch hands that advance incrementally, jumping displays snap forward in the
blink of an eye. Look closely through the apertures
in the openwork dial and you can see the jumping
mechanism in action. Those same openings also uncover the perlage that decorates the movement below. Despite the marvels of modern digital photography, it’s impossible to adequately capture its
shimmering radiance.
Production of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Tourbillon with Double Jumping Second Time Zone is
limited to 50 pieces each in rose and white gold.
31
CARTIER
IMPECCABLE COMBINATION
Some combinations are so perfectly
matched that they’ll never go out of style.
Cartier puts the firm’s indelible stamp on
one of watchmaking’s classic pairings
with the Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual
Calendar Chronograph.
These complications are natural
allies, due mainly to the fact that both
require multiple sub-dials to express
their information. And although it’s a
challenge to maintain legibility when
combining chronograph counters with
calendar displays, it’s one that Cartier
dispatches with its typical élan. The
resulting dial is well proportioned and
intuitive to read, not to mention visually
engaging thanks to the flowing lines of
guilloché below the openwork dial.
A newly designed automatic chronograph
movement powers the Rotonde de Cartier
Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. The 42mm
case is available in either rose or white gold.
32
The configuration conceals the complexity of the watch’s self-winding movement,
which is produced in-house by Cartier. It includes a column-wheel chronograph with a
vertical clutch, a superior design that eliminates the twitch — observed in the majority
of chronographs — that affects the seconds
hand when starting and stopping the stopwatch function. Equally impressive is the
perpetual calendar’s user-friendly operation,
which is aided by the trio of recessed correctors on the side of the case. These are used to
quickly re-set the calendar displays in the
event that the watch stops.
All of this technology and beauty slips
neatly into a 42mm case that’s available in
either white gold with a silvered dial or rose
gold with a brown dial.
advances the hour hand by one. For instance, if you flew from your home in Los
Angeles to New York City, you would push
the adjustor button three times when you
landed to compensate for jumping ahead
three time zones.
That change is also reflected on the
side of the case, where a window reveals
a rotating disc inscribed with the names
of 24 different cities, one for each of the
world’s major time zones. In fact, there
are two rows of cities listed. This special
feature allows the watch to account for
seasonal time changes. The top row is
used between November and March,
while the other row is referenced during
the other seven months.
The Tortue Multiple Time Zone is
equipped with an automatic movement
made in-house by Cartier and available
in either rose or white gold.
WORLDLY AND WISE
Cartier’s celebrated tortue case may be named
for the slow-footed turtle, but its latest incarnation is definitely made for someone who is
on the move.
The Tortue Multiple Time Zone delivers
one of the most elegant expressions of a world
time watch that you’re likely to find, thanks to
the case’s tailored lines and the “sea” of blue
lacquer that delineates the multi-level map at
the center of the dial.
When traveling, a retrograde hand — which
doubles as a day/night indicator — shows
the home time on a 12-hour arc. Meanwhile,
the central hour and minute hands show the
local time in the destination city. Adjusting
this display is surprisingly straightforward.
Pushing the button located above the crown
The Tortue Multiple Time Zone not only indicates the
hours in two different time zones simultaneously, but
also has the ability to account for seasonal time changes.
33
CARTIER
GOING STRONG
The broad shoulders of the Calibre de
Cartier case have carried the firm’s message of masculine style with a sporty
edge since it debuted in 2010. This year,
Cartier introduced a new dimension to
the potent design with the addition of a
chronograph movement that is made entirely at its state-of-the-art manufacture.
To power the Calibre de Cartier
Chronograph, the firm enlisted a column-wheel chronograph movement that’s
found in several men’s models, including
the Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. In fact, Caliber 1904CH MC is so popular that Cartier watchmakers have dubbed it “The Module.”
In the world of chronographs, column-wheel designs occupy
a special place. They require a great deal more time to produce, but
the extra effort ensures a highly precise and robust mechanism.
Cartier added other performance enhancements to the movement,
including a vertical clutch that improves energy efficiency and ensures the watch does not exhibit the fluttering seconds hand typical in
most chronographs.
Beyond its superior mechanics, the Calibre de Cartier Chronograph is a truly handsome timepiece both inside and out. Dedicated
artisans finish the automatic movement by hand, including the traditional côtes de Genève decoration that adorns the bridges and winding
rotor, both of which are visible through the clear caseback.
Its 42mm round case continues the Calibre de Cartier collection’s
aesthetic code, which is defined by contrasting metal finishes. Several
variations were unveiled this year to inaugurate the Calibre de Cartier
Chronograph collection. Among the standouts are models in rose gold
and stainless steel, as well as one design that features both metals.
The Calibre de Cartier Chronograph
introduces a new complication to the
firm’s line of sports watches. The 42mm
case, which comes in a variety of metal
combinations, is equipped with Cartier’s
column-wheel chronograph movement.
34
Following its debut last year, the
Tank Anglaise collection expands its
palette with new, alligator-skin straps in
bold colors, like fuchsia pink and aubergine purple. These fresh hues complement the watch’s distinctive case, which
seamlessly incorporates the crown into
the vertical bar on the right side of the
case. Available in a range of sizes, the
Tank Anglaise comes in yellow, white or
rose gold and can be set with rows of
diamond pavé.
Through the refined elegance of these
designs for ladies, along with its technical achievements in the realm of men’s
watches, Cartier proves that its hardearned success is no illusion. ¨
The Tank Américaine shows
off a new bracelet design with
smooth metal scales made to look
like snakeskin. The bracelet is
offered in white or rose gold and
can be set with diamond pavé.
SHAPING THE FUTURE
Among its countless gifts as a watchmaker, Cartier is supremely
adept at eliciting strong emotional responses through its masterful
use of shaped cases, from the oval Baignoire to the amorphous
Crash watch. High atop this list sits the ever-popular Tank. The power of this classic design stems partly from its flexibility, which has
inspired several interpretations over nearly a century. And while
they all exhibit their own individual personality, none has altered
the integrity of the original design.
The list grows again this year as Cartier introduces new members
of the Tank Américaine and Tank Anglaise families.
First is the Tank Américaine, which is instantly recognizable
by the rectangular outline and gently curved profile of its case, a
sleek design that comes in a range of sizes that can be decorated
with diamonds. The Tank Américaine now charms with a new snakelike bracelet that wraps its smooth scales around the wrist. This
serpent-skin motif is available in white or rose gold versions, both
of which can be set with diamond pavé.
Alligator-skin straps in stunning
new colors enliven the Tank Anglaise
collection. Here, a glossy fuchsiacolored strap is paired with a white
gold case set with diamonds.
35
CHOPARD
Above: To celebrate 20 years of the Happy Sport,
Chopard has unveiled the first model equipped
with a mechanical movement. This Happy Sport
Medium Automatic combines a 36mm rose gold
case with a diamond bezel.
Above right: Seven “happy diamonds” dance on
the dial of this stainless steel model, which is
paired with a purple alligator leather strap.
36
Moving
TRIBUTE
Romance met whimsy in 1993, when Chopard
unveiled its popular collection of watches
with floating diamonds.
BY RACHEL YOUNG
T
he firm’s dazzling jewels have long
served as devoted counterparts to
haute couture gowns and the women who wear them. But Chopard’s
artfully crafted gem-set watches —
œuvres d’art in their own right — found
their way into the spotlight 20 years
ago when, under the creative vision
of co-president Caroline Scheufele,
the brand introduced its celebrated
Happy Sport collection.
Women everywhere were enchanted by the line’s innovative moving diamonds, which, with a gentle
flick of the wrist, appear to dance just
above the gorgeous dials they inhabit.
Each model in the popular line is as playful as the women who wear them.
In honor of the popular collection’s
anniversary this year, Chopard presents
its new Happy Sport Medium Automatic, the first model in the collection
equipped with a mechanical movement.
In homage to the decorative tradition of classical watchmaking, a silver-toned
guilloché dial beautifully displays the Happy Sport
Medium Automatic’s seven floating diamonds. A
sapphire crystal caseback reveals the self-winding
movement, which is adorned with côtes de Genève and
endowed with a 42-hour power reserve.
Available in stainless steel or rose gold, the Happy
Sport Medium Automatic’s 36mm case can also be paired
with a diamond-set bezel. If that’s not enough sparkle,
Chopard also offers a rose gold version completely
covered in diamond pavé.
Make a dazzling entrance with a rose gold Happy Sport Medium
Automatic that shines with pavé-set diamonds on the case, bezel and dial.
37
CHOPARD
HISTORICALLY ACCURATE
The year 1993 was the start of something
special, but Chopard’s illustrious history
goes all the way back to 1860, when the
brand’s then 24-year-old founder, LouisUlysse Chopard, established a highprecision watch manufactory specializing in chronometers and pocket watches
in Sonvilier, Switzerland. More than 150
years later, Chopard continues its tradition of
fine watchmaking with its L.U.C collection.
To commemorate the year that the founder’s
grandson, Paul-André Chopard, moved the company to Geneva, Chopard created the L.U.C 1937.
A modern timepiece constructed according to Swiss
tradition, this dress watch returns this year in a newly
redesigned case as the L.U.C 1937 Classic. Produced
exclusively in rose gold, the 42mm case houses a selfwinding movement made in-house at Chopard’s stateof-the-art manufacture in Fleurier, Switzerland.
What truly defines this movement, however, is its
high level of chronometric performance. The movement
that powers the L.U.C 1937 is what’s known as a chronometer. To earn this rare distinction, Chopard sent the
caliber to be tested by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des
Chronomètres (COSC), an independent agency responsible for awarding chronometer certification to movements that meet strict performance guidelines.
OUT FOR A SPIN
The past takes a backseat with the L.U.C Engine One H,
which boasts a striking, futuristic design. This sporty
new model follows the path made by the original L.U.C
Engine One, which was unveiled in 2010. Both designs
deftly combine fine watchmaking with Chopard’s longstanding relationship with competitive auto racing.
The L.U.C Engine One H’s hand-wound tourbillon
movement resembles a transversely mounted car engine with grooved cylinder head covers at the top and
bottom. What’s more, the movement is secured like an
engine block to the interior frame of the titanium case
using mounts specially designed to absorb vibrations
before they reach the movement.
Even the dial layout evokes the watch’s automotive
muse by calling to mind a car’s dashboard. Here, the
seconds indicator above the tourbillon plays the role of
speedometer, while the nearby power reserve indicator
serves as the fuel gauge. In keeping with the exclusive
nature of this timepiece, Chopard will limit production
to just 100 pieces.
38
Presented exclusively in rose gold, the L.U.C 1937 Classic
houses an automatic chronometer movement made
in-house by Chopard.
ODE TO ITALIA
At Chopard, motor sport appreciation is a family affair.
The firm’s co-president, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, and
his father, honorary president Karl Scheufele III,
regularly take part in Italy’s legendary Mille Miglia, an
open road endurance race that began in 1927. In fact,
Chopard has proudly partnered with the race for the
past quarter of a century and currently serves as its
official timekeeper.
Chopard continues another important tradition
this year by introducing its latest timepiece to honor
the historic race, the Mille Miglia 2013. Along with
functions useful for drivers such as a chronograph and
a tachometric scale, it also features a date display and
a dual-time zone indicator.
Splashes of red call attention to the two chronograph counters that align vertically on the anthracite
dial, as well as the chronograph’s seconds hand, which
is tipped with white to enhance legibility. So that they
may be read in the dark, the hour and minute hands, as
well as the hour markers, have been treated with a
luminescent coating. The same glow-in-the-dark
material is also used on the arrow-shaped hand, which
indicates the hour in a second time zone using the
24-hour scale that runs along the edge of the dial.
Presented in a limited edition of 2013 pieces, the
stainless steel Mille Miglia 2013 is paired with a natural black-rubber strap that’s made to look like a 1960s
Dunlop racing tire. It provides a cohesive look in keeping with the theme of this visually stunning watch.
HAUTE GEAR
Chopard explores new terrain with its Classic Racing collection this year as it introduces the first watches in the
family to be powered by the firm’s in-house movements. To
make this giant leap, Chopard selected three models from
the Superfast collection, a group of watches recognized for
generous sizes and masculine lines.
One of the most exciting of these new models is the
Superfast Power Control. Its 45mm stainless steel case
houses Chopard’s self-winding movement, a highly precise
COSC-certified chronometer. The clear caseback shows off
the firm’s handiwork to great effect, turning a spotlight on
the movement’s openwork bridges. These unexpected linear
perforations not only echo the look of engine-cooling vents,
but also provide a more detailed view of the movement.
On the dial side, black and gray dominate the color palette. The main exception is the white power reserve indicator positioned on the left side. Its bright red hand
clearly indicates how much energy is stored in the
mainspring, which holds 60 hours of power
when fully wound.
Whether it’s making hearts race with
moving diamonds or finding inspiration
in the design of classic sports cars,
Chopard ably tows the line between
aesthetic classicism and modern innovation in a way that connects lovers of
haute horlogerie across the globe. ¨
From top: The power reserve indicator and tourbillon are
arranged like the gauges on a dashboard to reflect the
automotive inspiration behind the L.U.C Engine One H.
Production of this titanium model is limited to 100 pieces.
Limited to 2013 pieces, the stainless steel Mille Miglia 2013
offers a range of functions, including a date display, arrowshaped dual-time zone indictor and a chronograph.
The 45mm stainless steel Superfast Power Control is among the first
watches in the Classic Racing collection to be equipped with a
movement made in-house by Chopard.
39
COVER STORY
KEY
to the CITY
One of Switzerland’s oldest clock towers, the
Zytglogge (pronounced tseet-klok-uh) means
different things to different people.
BY SCOTT HICKEY
Photo courtesy of Bern Tourism
COVER STORY
F
or residents of Bern, it’s the
rhythm that’s accompanied their
daily lives for six centuries. For
visitors, it doubles as a popular
destination and a prominent landmark to
help navigate the medieval architecture
that lines the cobblestone streets of the
Old Town neighborhood.
But the Zytglogge is something else,
too. It’s also a key that helps unlock some
of the history behind Switzerland’s capital.
Much like Bern, the Zytglogge has
grown over time. The city was founded in
the 12th century on a hill surrounded by
the Aar River. Soon after, a protective wall
was constructed along Bern’s western
edge, including a wooden guard tower
where the clock stands today. For a short
time, the tower served as the entrance gate
to the city, but it was quickly overtaken by
Bern’s rapid westward expansion.
The tower was converted into a women’s prison in the mid-1300s and stayed
that way until 1405, when a massive fire
destroyed the wooden structure along
with much of the city. Later that year,
Bern rebuilt the tower with limestone
and sandstone. But instead of reestablishing the prison, the building was made
into a clock tower and topped with a 1.5ton bronze bell to ring the hours. This is
when residents first began calling the
tower the Zytglogge, which means “time
bell” in Bernese German, the local dialect.
TEST OF TIME
The original clock operated for more than
a century, but was plagued by mechanical breakdowns. That changed in 1530,
when Swiss engineer Kaspar Brunner installed new clockworks in the Zytglogge.
The intricate mechanism he built — except for a few modifications — continues
to operate after nearly 500 years. Ursula
Arregger, a city guide with Bern Tourism,
says that not only is the movement still
in good working order, but it also includes nearly three-dozen original parts.
Many of those can be seen during a tour
of the tower, she adds.
42
All photos courtesy of Bern Tourism
Brunner’s movement controls three
separate clocks, two of which display the
hours and minutes. The third, located on
the tower’s east side, is an astronomical
clock with an astrolabe-style display. Its
complex dial shows the passage of time in
several different ways. A hand-shaped
pointer indicates the hour on a 24-hour
scale running along the outer edge of the
clock face, while a star-tipped hand simultaneously tracks both the month and date.
The dial also reflects the movement of
the heavens, including a spherical moon
that rotates to mimic the current lunar
phase. Additionally, there are indications
that show the current sign of the Zodiac, as
well as the times for sunrise and sunset.
ART HISTORY
While the functions of all three clocks
have remained constant throughout the
centuries, the exterior has not. The most
noticeable changes have been the addition
of several jaquemarts — moving figures
whose gestures are controlled by the clock.
Crowds of tourists gather everyday
to witness this ancient mechanical ritual. It begins a few minutes before every
hour and includes a crowing rooster, parading bears, a dancing jester and Chronos — the Greek personification of time
— waving his scepter. Another jaquemart,
a gilded bell striker, stands beneath the
tower’s copper roof and swings his hammer as the bell rings out the hours.
The figures were added at various
times over a 120-year period and offer
glimpses into Bern’s past. The bears,
Chronos and the bell striker were the
first, arriving around 1480. They came at
a time of rapid growth, when the city’s
boundaries were expanding beyond the
original settlement, which was bounded
by the Aar River.
Clockwise from top left: View from the top of
the tower; astronomical clock with astrolabe
display, jaquemarts (mechanized figures) that
move in concert with the striking of the hour;
gears inside the clock tower.
43
COVER STORY
The jester made his debut in 1534, just a few years
after Brunner’s movement was built into the Zytglogge.
During that time, Bern was busy constructing ornate
fountains to meet its residents’ growing demand for
water. Many of those remain standing today, including
several near the clock tower. One in particular, the
Zähringerbrunnen, memorializes the city’s founder Berchtold von Zähringer and was finished at roughly the
same time as the jester.
The final jaquemart was the rooster. It was introduced in 1600, when the two large clock faces on the
eastern and western side of the tower were given their
decorative designs.
In modern times, the Zytglogge underwent a major
renovation so that its exterior would reflect the style of
the late-Baroque period, which is how the building
appeared in 1770. The refurbishment took place in
1983 — the same year that UNESCO declared Bern’s Old
Town section a World Heritage Site.
All photos courtesy of Bern Tourism
INSPIRING GENIUS
What has to be the most surprising twist in the Zytglogge’s tale is the role it played in the development of
modern physics.
In the early 1900s, a young Albert Einstein was living in Bern and working as a patent clerk at an office
near the clock tower. As the story goes, Einstein’s famous
theory of relativity drew from his observations of the
streetcars that sped by the Zytglogge every day.
His theory was that if he rode away from the clock
tower in a streetcar traveling at the speed of light, his
watch would continue to tick while the time on the tower
would remain unchanged. This, he believed, indicated
that the measurement of time is relative to the velocity
of the observer.
Today, if you climb the spiral staircase to the top of
the Zytglogge, you won’t see any streetcars traveling at
the speed of light. But for a moment, you can share in
the same view of historic Bern that the Zytglogge has
enjoyed for centuries. ¨
DE BETHUNE
The DB16 Tourbillon Regulator’s
window displays make it easy
to read the perpetual calendar.
This 43mm rose gold model will
be produced in a limited series
of just five watches.
46
Element
OF
SURPRISE
T
Like gifted storytellers,
De Bethune founders
David Zanetta and Denis
Flageollet keep you wondering what twists await.
BY SCOTT HICKEY
hat ability to surprise is one of the things that makes the DB16 Tourbillon
Regulator such an intriguing timepiece. The dial projects an air of refined
classicism through elements like its Roman numerals, sunburst guilloché
and an instantly legible perpetual calendar.
But the plot thickens when you turn the watch over to discover the
thoroughly modern movement lurking behind the dial. Produced
exclusively by De Bethune, the hand-wound caliber teems with
innovation. In fact, much of what you see through the clear
caseback is patented technology. A prime example is the
retrograde display near the bottom. It shows the exact
day of the lunar cycle depicted by the spherical
moon phase indicator on the dial.
The jumping seconds mechanism located
beneath the blue, arrow-shaped bridge provides
another demonstration of technical prowess.
Unlike most mechanical watches — where the
seconds hand moves continuously around the
dial — the DB16 Tourbillon Regulator’s hand
stops every second to give a precise reading
before advancing.
While both are impressive, the undisputed star here is the 30-second tourbillon.
Kept hidden like a secret behind the dial, this
mechanism is among the fastest and lightest
produced. It weighs less than .2 grams
thanks to an advanced design that features
key components made from silicon, a
material that is strong yet light.
De Bethune will produce the
The clear back reveals a gauge for the
DB16 Tourbillon Regulator in rose
four-day power reserve and shows off
gold as a limited edition of just
De Bethune innovations like the jumping
five pieces, making it an exseconds mechanism, 30-second tourbillon
treme rarity.
and retrograde age-of-the-moon indicator.
47
DE BETHUNE
ON POINT
Walk
among
the stars with
the DB28 Skybridge.
Its 45mm titanium case
contains a blued-titanium dial
decorated with gold and diamonds.
THE BLUES ARE ALRIGHT
Vivid blue dials are a recurring aesthetic motif that runs throughout
the De Bethune collection. It’s easy to understand why when
you see the strikingly vibrant color in person.
The firm uses it to great effect with the DB28 Skybridge.
Crafted from blued titanium, the dial’s concave shape
intensifies its mirror-like sheen. To this twilight sky,
De Bethune adds gold and diamond stars as well as a
“bridge” that bisects the dial and gives the watch its
otherworldly name. De Bethune’s signature moon
phase display rotates nearby. At the center of the instantly recognizable design is a spherical indicator
that uses blued-steel for the moon’s dark side and
palladium for the other.
The outer beauty is matched by the excellence of the
hand-wound movement contained within the titanium
case. Manufactured by the brand entirely in-house, the
caliber uses a sophisticated balance wheel made from a
combination of silicon and the rare metal palladium.
The DB27 Titan Hawk Black uses a triangular pointer at the
center to indicate the date. Reminiscent of a pocket watch,
the 44mm titanium case features the crown at 12 o’clock.
48
Introduced last year, the DB27 Titan
Hawk returns with a new black dial. Its
dark surface flows gracefully from the
center where tight ripples build into a
rolling tide that crests at the edge and
lifts the chapter ring, giving the arrangement a subtle depth. Like a gleaming
boat on this ebony ocean, a triangular indicator circumnavigates the dial as it
points out the current date.
The other side of the Titan Hawk is
covered with a titanium caseback. An
arrow-shaped form — similar to the
Skybridge — rises out of the middle. At
its base is a small porthole that provides
a clear view of the automatic movement’s
silicon and white gold balance wheel as
it oscillates four times a second.
The watch’s 44mm titanium case
features self-adjusting lugs, one of the
brand’s signature innovations. When the
watch is worn, its lugs pivot smoothly to
create a comfortable, custom fit that
continuously adapts to your movements.
BUILDING ON SUCCESS
BEAUTIFUL HARMONY
The same floating lug system is also used
for the DB28 collection, one of De Bethune’s
greatest success stories.
Two years ago, that model earned the
prestigious “Golden Hand” award at the
Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix. This year,
De Bethune writes the next chapter in the
watch’s legend with the DB28T Black.
The entire watch is a study in contrasts
thanks to the captivating interplay between
key elements, like the bright minute ring
and the dark zirconium metal case. What’s
more, the rich juxtaposition of textures
draws the eye from the black, mirrorpolished bridge to the plate behind it, which
is decorated with undulating waves the
brand describes as côtes De Bethune.
The tourbillon revels in artistry
of a different kind by using the
latest materials to achieve
mechanical beauty. Made from
a combination of silicon and
titanium, the tourbillon is
placed inside a carriage that
rotates once every 30 seconds to protect the balance
spring from gravity’s pull
and enhance timekeeping
accuracy.
Sophistication through simplification is the principle that guides the
DB25. For this two-handed model, De Bethune focuses intensely on horological purity.
Stripping away the extraneous reveals the natural beauty of the
dial’s guilloché decoration, which is bounded by a gently raised chapter
ring. Shaped from blued-steel, the minute and hour hands are open in
the middle, an airy design note echoed by the hollowed lugs attached to
the 40mm rose gold case.
Inside beats a hand-wound movement manufactured exclusively at
De Bethune’s workshops, which are located in L’Auberson, Switzerland,
not far from Lake Neuchâtel.
The DB25L shares a similar aesthetic with its cousin, but has its
own distinct technical personality.
The obvious difference is the lunar indicator at the top of the guilloché dial. It features a star-spangled blue field and a rotating sphere
designed to mimic the phases of the moon. More than
just an artistic expression, De Bethune’s moon phase
mechanism is also exceptionally precise and
will not require an adjustment for 122 years.
Turn over the 44mm white gold case to
find a gauge that shows how much of the
six-day power reserve remains. Just like
every watch made by the firm, the DB25L
stores its energy in a self-regulating twin
barrel that’s designed to maximize
efficiency.
In a remarkable way, the DB25L manages to not only define the De Bethune
watchmaking ethos — artistic expression
and technical excellence in harmony —
but also capture the dynamic between its
founders, Zanetta and Flageollet. ¨
Clockwise from top:
The DB28T Black’s 42.6mm case
is sculpted from zirconium, a
metal that is both lightweight
and rugged.
Shown here in white
gold, the DB25L’s
hand-wound
movement is
equipped with
a moon phase
indicator that
will remain
accurate for more
than a century.
When fully wound, the
rose gold DB25 stores enough
reserve power for six days.
49
GREUBEL FORSEY
Shown in white gold, the
Tourbillon 24 Secondes
Asymétrique’s ultra-light
carriage makes it possible
for the patented tourbillon
to rotate once every 24
seconds. Nearby, a single
hand indicates the seconds
on two adjoining sectors.
50
WITH
Better
TIME
Greubel Forsey’s insatiable desire to challenge convention
fuels its restless spirit of re-invention.
BY ALEX LEE
R
obert Greubel and Stephen Forsey — who founded the firm in 2004
— are known for creating award-winning timepieces that express
their shared vision for technically advanced, high-performance
watch movements. Each model stands as a remarkable testament to
their bold inventions.
What Greubel Forsey does, perhaps better than any other brand today, is
dream up and produce specialized tourbillons. The firm builds on the legacy of
Abraham Louis Breguet, who first mounted the escapement inside a rotating
carriage in the 19th century to equalize the effects of gravity and improve
timekeeping accuracy. Today, Greubel Forsey is putting its own spin on the
tourbillon.
One of the duo’s preeminent creations is found in Tourbillon 24
Secondes Asymétrique. To say this tourbillon is different from
others would be quite an understatement. First, it rotates once
every 24 seconds, making it nearly three times faster than
most tourbillons. This increase in speed was accomplished
by changing the design of the cage to reduce its weight.
Next, the tourbillon rotates on a 30-degree incline, a position that helps the balance spring more effectively cheat
gravity. Together, the speed and incline help make this
movement one of the most accurate available in a wristwatch today.
Despite its robust size (43.5mm wide and 16.1mm
thick) and amorphous shape, the white gold Asymétrique case is more comfortable than you would
expect thanks to its ergonomic curvature. The sapphire crystal window on its side at 8 o’clock further
accentuates its asymmetry. But the opening serves
an important purpose beyond aesthetics, allowing a
mesmerizing lateral view of the tourbillon in action.
From the back, restraint is the key to the movement’s
understated appeal. Its bridges, which fill much of the space,
have a frosted texture that emits a lovely radiance despite their
matte finish. Traditional decorations like côtes de Genève and perlage
are visible, but definitely play supporting roles.
Visible through the Tourbillon
24 Secondes Asymétrique’s
caseback, the hand-wound
movement’s plates and
bridges are decorated using
a technique called frosting.
51
GREUBEL FORSEY
ON THE MARK IN THE DARK
Precision is the name of the game at the International Chronometry Competition, a comprehensive
series of timing tests organized by the Museum of
Horology in Le Locle, Switzerland. The Double
Tourbillon Technique took first place at the competition in 2011, besting all other participants.
The award-winning movement turns to the dark
side (in a good way) for the Double Tourbillon
Technique Black. The titanium case, the brand’s
first, is coated with Amorphous Diamond Like Carbon
(ADLC) to give the watch its distinctive shade.
As a visual counterpoint, the interior design is
filled with light thanks to the open architecture,
including a transparent chapter ring that ensures
an expansive view. Along with the watch’s namesake double tourbillon, you also can clearly see
the barrel at 11 o’clock. It contains four fast-rotating coaxial barrels and stores up to 120 hours of
reserve power.
ADLC coats the Double Tourbillon Technique Black’s titanium
case (47.5mm), which is home to the firm’s award-winning
double tourbillon. Its outer mechanism rotates once a minute
and is inclined at a 30-degree angle, while the other rotates
every four minutes.
FANTASTIC FOUR
After the double tourbillon proved its chronometric worth,
Greubel Forsey set out to top itself, which led to the Quadruple Tourbillon Asymétrique. While the idea of simply
adding a second double tourbillon seemed straightforward,
the practical application was anything but.
The challenge was to devise a means of connecting four
asynchronous tourbillon carriages in a way that resulted in
an extremely reliable timing rate. The solution was a spherical differential similar to those found in high-performance
automobiles.
The ingenuity of that system is matched by the tourbillons’ decidedly unconventional configurations. The mechanism at 5 o’clock is inclined at a 30-degree angle and rotates
once every 60 seconds, while the other rotates once every
four minutes. What’s more, the latter can be viewed from the
top as well as through a window on the side of the 5N red
gold Asymétrique case.
Featured in 5N red gold, the Quadruple Tourbillon
Asymétrique achieves a high level of chronometric
precision thanks to a patented system of four
asynchronous tourbillon carriages connected by
a spherical differential.
52
ROLLING IN THE DEEP
At first glance, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain
appears quite minimalist by the firm’s standards. But it’s
also wise to keep in mind that “minimalist,” in the world of
Greubel Forsey, still means beautifully complicated.
What catches the eye instantly is the royal blue dial. It’s
actually not a dial, but rather the movement’s plates and
bridges, which have been treated with a special oxidation
process to achieve its color and finish. The signature tourbillon appears to float atop this deep blue ocean, suspended
by a clear sapphire crystal bridge.
Offered in a limited edition of 33 pieces, this 5N red
gold version features plates screwed to the caseband that
feature Greubel Forsey’s watchmaking philosophy expressed
in bas-relief.
EARTH MOVER
From top: The limited edition
Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain’s
royal blue plates and bridges share
space with the tourbillon, small
seconds and an indicator for the
watch’s 72-hour power reserve.
The 5N red gold GMT features a
rotating titanium globe that makes
it possible to determine the time in 24
different time zones simultaneously.
The display on the back of the GMT
shows the time in 24 different cities
using two stationary numbered rings.
The outer ring reflects standard time,
while the other is used only during
daylight savings time.
The anthracite tones that color the dial of the GMT project an impressive
level of visual depth and allow the beautifully crafted moving parts to be
showcased independently.
That’s especially true of the rotating, three-dimensional globe. As it
revolves counterclockwise inside a 24-hour chapter ring, the numbers line
up with different locations on the globe to indicate the local times. As a
result, you can read the time in 24 different time zones simultaneously.
There is even a window on the caseband that allows light to shine onto the
globe and simulate the sun’s position relative to the Earth, adding an original twist to the day/night indicator.
Contrary to its complex appearance, changing the second time zone
display is a relatively simple task that’s achieved by pushing the GMT button at 10 o’clock. It advances the 12-hour indicator next to the button. It
also moves a disc on the back of the watch that includes the names of 24
cities, each representing a different time
zone. To indicate the time in each city, the
disc rotates between two stationary 24hour rings. The outer ring is used to indicate the standard time in each city,
while the interior is used only during
the summer, when daylight savings
time is in effect.
Through imaginative inventions
like the GMT, Greubel Forsey
reveals that there are no bounds
to its creativity, or its willingness to take on extreme technical
challenges. This horological daring,
coupled with its gift for exceeding
expectations, is why the firm continues
to earn effusive praise from its peers and
enthusiasts alike. ¨
HYT
Force of
NATURE
The portable hydraulic timepiece
was but a watchmaker’s dream, until
HYT made it a reality.
BY JONATHAN BUES
B
y the time of the pharaohs, man had
discovered that by harnessing water
he could divide time into measurable units. The key to this advance
was controlling and measuring the water’s
flow, relying on gravity to supply the force for
his aqueous timekeepers. While this system
worked well with clepsydra — also called water clocks — that remained in a fixed space,
portable hydraulic timekeeping proved an impossibility for the better part of 3,400 years.
Gravity, the strength of the water clock, was
paradoxically the bane of the hydraulic watch.
Produced in a
limited edition
of just 50 pieces,
the H2 includes
a crown-position
indicator on the dial.
Its red-tipped hand
points to H for setting,
R for winding and
N for neutral.
That was until HYT made its high-profile debut in 2012. As
the first and only watch company to display time with liquids,
HYT — led by the enthusiastic watch industry veteran Vincent
Perriard — instantly joined an elite corps of technically advanced
marques vying for the attention of a sophisticated collector
community.
GRACE UNDER PRESSURE
From behind, one can observe the H2’s
innovative movement, which includes two
barrels large enough to store eight days of
reserve power, as well as the bellows that
control the hydraulic indication of the hours.
54
The much-touted liquid display of HYT’s latest model, the limited
edition H2, is accomplished with two flexible reservoirs fixed to
each end of a circular capillary that runs along the edge of the
dial. One reservoir is filled with yellow-green fluorescein, the
other with a transparent viscous liquid.
As time passes, one reservoir pushes the fluorescein around
the capillary as the other reservoir floods with the clear liquid.
The repulsive force of the molecules in each liquid prevents them
from mixing, forming a meniscus boundary between the two that
serves as the H2’s unique hour indicator. When the fluorescein
completes is path around the dial, the process reverses itself, filling the capillary entirely with the clear liquid. This side-to-side
motion replicates, in liquid form, the movement of a retrograde
hand on a traditional watch.
Left: Limited to just 25 pieces, the H1 AZO Project’s
brightly colored case is made from azo polyepoxyde, a lightweight yet strong material that
lends itself exceptionally well to watchmaking.
But what actuates the reservoirs themselves? This is where the
haute horlogerie aspect of HYT comes in. In addition to displaying
the minutes via a jumping hand, the exclusive manually wound
movement also compresses and releases pistons connected to the
bellows, controlling the flow of liquid in the hour indicator. Along
with its generous eight-day power reserve, the H2 boasts other
useful features like a temperature gauge to indicate when the
watch has reached the right temperature for optimal performance
of the liquid hours display.
Above: With is sleek, minimalist black case,
the focus of the stealthy H1 Black DLC is placed
squarely on the H1 hydraulic timekeeping
mechanism.
EXPRESSION OF CHOICE
The H1, the original timepiece from HYT, became available in a
range of executions this year, giving collectors the opportunity to
choose between several new versions.
First is the H1 AZO Project, a limited-edition timepiece crafted from the unusual substance azo polyepoxyde, a cutting-edge
material with a superlative strength-to-weight ratio. This strong,
lightweight substance is ideal for watchmaking, and has the added
benefit of coming in a vivid translucent yellow-green color that
plays off the fluorescein of the H1’s hour display.
In addition, collectors can also select the H1 TB, a model
made from titanium that has bronze shot-peened and satinfinished surfaces. At 48.8mm in diameter, the H1 is that much
more comfortable for having a case made from lightweight titanium. The inimitable look of the bronze surface, with its capacity
to age into a fine patina, will appeal to discerning collectors.
Those wanting a simple and sleek black H1 are covered with the
H1 Black DLC, which won the Innovation Prize last year at the Grand
Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève. Crafted in titanium, this watch is
finished with a complex interplay of brushed, shot-peened and satinfinished surfaces covered in black diamond-like carbon (DLC). ¨
Above: The H1 TB is crafted from titanium and
then coated with a textured-bronze surface. This
combination affords collectors the look of bronze
without its weight.
55
IWC
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WC honors its passion for advanced engineering,
both horological and automotive, with three Ingenieur models that combine technical achievement
with clear design.
One legend deserves another, and the historic
Mercedes-Benz W25 Silver Arrow racecar receives a
well-deserved tribute from the Ingenieur Chronograph
Silberpfeil.
The Silver Arrow (Silberpfeil in German) acquired
its unique look — and its name — in 1934 when
mechanics removed its white paint to meet a qualifying
weight limit, revealing the aluminum body beneath.
This iconic racecar’s influence permeates the design
and technical touches that inform IWC’s Silberpfeil.
The dial’s circular graining emphasizes a connection shared by the car and watch. The swirling pattern,
known as perlage in watchmaking, is often used to
decorate interior components like plates and bridges. It
56
so happens that the Silver Arrow also used the same
pattern on its dashboard.
Made exclusively by IWC, the Silberpfeil’s automatic chronograph animates a symmetrical dial and an
elapsed time readout that echoes the larger analog
display. The chronograph’s flyback function sends the
seconds counter back to zero and instantaneously
starts timing anew, an essential feature in the fastpaced world of auto racing.
In a grace note that makes explicit the link between
the original Silberpfeil and its namesake, the timepiece’s caseback features an engraving of the legendary
racer.
PRIZED PROTECTOR
The exemplary Ingenieur Automatic combines elegant
legibility with technical qualities that earned the
collection its name and reputation.
From left: For easy reading, the
45mm steel Ingenieur Chronograph
Silberpfeil’s automatic chronograph
displays the elapsed hours and
minutes on a single totalizer.
The Ingenieur Automatic’s 40mm
steel case provides substantial
protection against magnetic fields.
The chronograph movement used
in the 45mm steel Ingenieur
Chronograph Racer includes a
flyback function.
The Ingenieur Automatic transforms
necessities — like the five bores that hold the
bezel in place — into elements that define the
collection’s signature style. The piece as a
whole exudes restrained sophistication. Notice how the matte surfaces contrast with polished edges, and the tip of each hand aligns
precisely with its respective measurement.
Within the Automatic’s slim case resides
a hidden feature of nonetheless critical import. Its soft-iron inner case protects IWC’s
automatic movement against magnetic fields,
providing more than eight times the protection offered by standard antimagnetic watches. This feature even helped inspire the collection’s name. Engineers, who often worked
among magnetic fields, prized these refined
yet robust timepieces for this very quality.
FORMULA FOR SUCCESS
Watchmaking and automobile racing share a desire to improve
energy efficiency and enhance performance through technology. As
a natural extension of this relationship, IWC has partnered with
the Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One Team. Marking the occasion, the Ingenieur Chronograph Racer embodies the natural
resonance between the two disciplines, down to an engraving of a
Formula One racecar on its caseback.
When IWC redesigned the automatic movement for this model,
its goals were deceptively simple. First, create a chronograph display that would obviate any need for mental arithmetic. The end result is a chronograph indication that features the hours and minutes
on a single totalizer, so that it reads like an analog watch display.
Engineers then turned to a second goal: improve the efficiency
of the Pellaton winding system. They succeeded by controlling it
with a shaft that’s similar to the crankshaft in a motor. This automotive flourish made the movement a logical choice to power the
Ingenieur Chronograph Racer. ¨
57
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
Past is
PRESENT
Since 1833, Jaeger-LeCoultre has cultivated a reputation for making elegant
watches that keep time flawlessly. But this year, the grande maison outdid itself.
I
BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY
n the 180 years that have passed since Andrew
“extra-white” platinum case — are equally indebted to
Jackson was sworn in as U.S. president and Charles
the style codes, not to mention technical achievements,
Darwin sailed around South America aboard the
of the 19th century. For starters, the model’s 22-karat
HMS Beagle, few things have remained as relevant
gold oscillating weight features a reproduction of the
as Jaeger-LeCoultre.
gold medal Jaeger-LeCoulThat the firm — founded
tre earned at the 1889 Paris
by Antoine LeCoultre and
Universal Exposition, in
his son, Elie, in Switzerland’s
honor of “its horological
Vallée de Joux in 1833 —
expertise and spirit of inhas thrived throughout six
vention.” Then there is the
generations of watchmakmodel’s cylindrical balance
ing is a testament to the
spring, a tribute to marine
precision, accuracy and enchronometers of the 18th
during style of its timeand 19th centuries.
pieces, each built upon the
Which isn’t to suggest
horological advances that
that this Master Grande
came before it.
Tradition limited edition,
Nowhere is LeCoultre’s
issued in a series of 180
legacy borne out more clearly
pieces, is merely a reflecthan in the Master Grande
tion of watchmaking past.
Tradition Tourbillon
On the contrary, the timeCylindrique à Quantième
piece is equal parts past
Perpétuel Jubilee, unand present. Its flying (or
veiled earlier this year in
cantilevered) tourbillon is
Geneva. The model, a comhoused in a titanium carbination perpetual calenriage, while the perpetual
dar and flying tourbillon,
calendar mechanism —
draws its chief inspiration
displaying the day, date,
from perpetual calendar
month, and year, along
The 42mm platinum case houses an automatic movepocket watches of the 19th
with the moon phases —
ment made entirely by the firm. The engraved gold
century, with which it
fits inside a movement
rotor turns to wind the mainspring, which holds two
shares some subtle yet imcrafted, assembled, and
days of reserve power.
portant aesthetic elements,
decorated by hand in the
including a silver-toned grained dial finish, classic daufirm’s manufacture, whose location in the quaint Swiss
phine hands and a traditional minute circle.
village of Le Sentier belies its reputation as a bastion of
The insides of the timepiece — sheathed in a 42mm
cutting-edge horology.
58
Drawing upon the aesthetic and technical
features seen in perpetual calendars of the 19th
century, the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee
pays tribute to the 180-year legacy of the firm’s
founder Antoine LeCoultre.
59
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
TWICE AS NICE
In 2011, Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrated the 80th anniversary of its much-loved Reverso model, an Art Deco masterpiece developed for colonial officers of the British
Raj, who had requested a feature to protect the crystals
of their watches while they played polo in India. The
model’s swiveling mechanism allows the wearer to flip
the case, revealing an engraved motif or monogram, or a
second face, on its back — a feature so distinctive that
it has earned the Reverso iconic status in the annals of
watchmaking.
This year’s 180th anniversary sees the debut of the
Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface, a dual-time zone
version boasting two beguiling dials in day and night
versions. A silvered satin opaline finish, baton-type
hour markers, and black dagger-shaped hands distinguish the former, while a stylish black clous de Paris
hobnail guilloché motif defines the latter. It’s all contained in an elegant stainless steel or rose gold case
measuring just 9.14mm in thickness.
The model, however, isn’t just another pretty face
— or two, as the case may be! The manually wound
movement that powers both dual-time displays represents a technical innovation that can be traced to 1994,
The
“day”
dial of
the Grande
Reverso Ultra
Thin Duoface
features a silvered
satin opaline finish,
pictured in rose gold.
when the maison’s watchmakers pioneered the mechanical breakthrough in the first Reverso Duo. Here’s the
kicker: The caliber measures a mere 3.8mm thick, offering proof that Jaeger-LeCoultre is in full possession of
the considerable technical skills required to make such
a slender movement.
MASTERS OF THE GAME
The Master Ultra Thin Perpetual, pictured in rose gold, also
comes in white gold.
60
“For those who believe in traditional watchmaking, the
ultra-thin perpetual calendar is one of the holiest of
calibers,” writes Benjamin Clymer on the watch blog
Hodinkee, in a review of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master
Ultra Thin Perpetual. “So this watch, in a traditional
39-millimeter case, strikes a lot of chords with purists.”
While the model’s slim and streamlined silhouette
— just 9.2mm in thickness — is undeniably good-looking, its sleek design shouldn’t detract from the real feat
at hand: The mechanism at the heart of the timepiece will
continue to function without the need for adjustment until March 1, 2100. And just to be sure you don’t accidentally mess that up, a small window on the dial turns red
as evening falls to indicate the period when you’re advised to avoid winding it. During that time, the gear
wheels are already engaged in the complicated work of
changing the date at the precise stroke of midnight.
Consider the Master Calendar
something of a kid brother to the Master
Ultra Thin Perpetual, in its functionality
if not its styling. Housed in a resized
39mm case available in rose gold or
stainless steel, this 2013 introduction
boasts a slimmed-down bezel and lugs,
as well as a host of useful displays,
including hours, minutes, days of the
week, and month, as well as the phases of
the moon.
DATE NIGHT
When the Rendez-Vous collection debuted in 2012, watch lovers took notice.
Although Jaeger-LeCoultre has always
manufactured ladies’ timepieces, the ArtDeco inspired watches in the new line —
for whom actress Diane Kruger is an ambassador — represented a much more
serious effort to court female buyers.
Exhibit A: the new Rendez-Vous
Night & Day. Feminine without being
girly, sophisticated without losing its
playfulness, the self-winding model
features a distinctive day/night indicator, a gorgeous guilloché dial, and — best
of all — a diamond-set bezel that underscores its place at the intersection of
haute horlogerie and haute couture.
The date display at the heart of the
34mm Rendez-Vous Date appears
against the backdrop of a guilloché dial
framed by a diamond-set bezel — a signature look of this fetching ladies collection that has earned rave reviews from
women the world over.
In marking its 180th anniversary with
a collection of timepieces at once classic
and contemporary, Jaeger-LeCoultre
makes clear that it has drawn on its exemplary heritage without resting on its
laurels. Here’s to the next 180! ¨
Left: The moon
peeps out
between clouds
in the moon
phase display on
the Master
Calendar, shown
in stainless steel.
From left: The Rendez-Vous Night & Day, pictured in rose
gold with a diamond bezel, represents Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most serious effort to date to woo
women with timepieces that feature both aesthetic and mechanical achievements.
Shown in stainless steel with a diamond bezel, the Rendez-Vous Date is a reflection of JaegerLeCoultre’s increasingly important feminine side.
61
CULINARY CAMEOS
Let’s Do
BRUNCH
Brunch is a city thing and firmly rooted in the New York weekend
ritual. It’s something to look forward to after a busy week — a lazy
extended meal, unscripted, off the clock, with unwinding as the only
goal. Whether it’s the mood, the food, or drinks with friends, brunch —
with a capital B — is in a special category of its own to a New Yorker.
BY AMY COHEN
T
he weekends are tailor-made for this easy meal. There are no schedules to keep to or the usual weekday urgency, dress codes are relaxed
and a late start is the norm. Although frequently shared, the solo experience with the right reading material can be a revelation.
Brunch is nothing as unimaginative as the combination of breakfast and
lunch. There are inventive twists to old favorites: cocktails with fashionable
new ingredients, enchanting spaces to relax in, and new dishes to expand the
definition of the day’s first meal. But brunch is also a destination, a pleasurable celebration with the goal of liberation from the workweek. It’s in a different spirit than any other meal — guards are down, drinks are up, and
people watching is an entrée unto itself. It’s a license to relax, take your time,
go overboard and enjoy.
Where you choose to go can reveal a lot about who you are: Cookshop’s
endless variations on the Bloody Mary tempt the confident traditionalist, Calliope’s deservedly famous German pancakes inspire the do-it-yourself zealot,
and escargot instead of bacon excites the flamboyant trendsetter at Benoit.
We’ve gathered a list of some of the city’s top spots to help you find the
place that is just right for you. Join us and decide: Where shall we go for
brunch?
All photos courtesy of Rosemary’s
ROSEMARY’S
18 Greenwich Avenue
212.647.1818 • rosemarysnyc.com
Brunch: Weekends 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Reservations: Required only for large
groups (8 or more)
T
o give the farm-to-kitchen approach
a new urban twist, Rosemary’s
grows the herbs and produce it uses for
its seasonal Italian menu upstairs on its
expansive rooftop farm. Everyone loves
the Uovo in Purgatorio, eggs sunny-side
up, pomodoro tomatoes and parmigiano
with a kick from Fresno chili peppers.
The stringhe di funghi is a brunch-only
special that features poached eggs nestled alongside sautéed oyster mushrooms and prosciutto. With floor-to-ceiling windows open to the breeze, pale
wooden tables and chairs, brick walls,
exposed wood beams and leafy window
box plantings beside the stairway,
you’re whisked away to a relaxed country setting.
SIGNATURE COCKTAILS
Beer & Mary: Six Point
Crisp Beer, spiced tomato
juice, olive and pancetta
garnish
Bellini: Made with fresh
juices
Cold-pressed greenvegetable and fruit juice:
made in-house daily
63
BENOIT
60 West 55th Street
646.943.7373
benoitny.com
Brunch: Sundays 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.
Reservations: Recommended
R
especting technique is at the heart of
Benoit. Feeling traditional? Try the
croque-monsieur or croque-madame, the crêpes
Suzette, the Nicoise salad or the escargot.
Want to indulge? The eggs baked sunny-side
up with lobster is the perfect comfort food.
For a truly sybaritic brunch, stick with classic desserts like mousse and floating island,
or one of the many seasonal cakes, tarts and
pastries from the all-you-can-eat Sunday
dessert bar. The tiling, wood paneling and
red-velvet banquettes all add to the feeling
that you’ve discovered the quintessential Parisian bistro hiding in Midtown.
SIGNATURE COCKTAILS
Bellini: champagne, peach purée
Benoit Martini: Bombay Sapphire,
St. Germain, Campari, Grand Marnier,
lime juice
Interior banquette, dessert buffet and escargot photos by Pierre Monetta. Pastry trolley, eggs and lobster photos by M. Piazza. Interior photo by Evan Sung.
CULINARY CAMEOS
All photographs courtesy of Calliope
CALLIOPE
84 East 4th Street
212.260.8484
calliopenyc.com
Brunch: Weekends 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Reservations: Accepted
O
n sunny days, the doors of
Calliope open to the lively
sidewalk café, enhancing the European vibe of this East Village bistro.
Brunch is about simple dishes with
fresh ingredients, like the sable and
gravlax, which are both smoked inhouse with applewood and available
only on the weekends. Customers
keep the kitchen busy with orders
for the German pancakes, which are
baked and served in a cast-iron pan,
but the chefs favor the spicy tripe
with a sunny-side up egg. Begin or
end the meal with strawberry scones
served with clotted cream and jam
and you’re guaranteed to leave happy.
SIGNATURE COCKTAILS
Breakfast Margarita:
Tequila, lime, house-made citrus
marmalade
The Corpse Reviver: Gin,
Cointreau, Lillet blanc, citrus
65
L’APICIO
13 East 1st Street • 212.533.7400 • lapicio.com
Brunch: Weekends 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Reservations: Accepted
SIGNATURE COCKTAILS
Collin’s O’Mally: Gin, Allagash white,
grapefruit
White Bloody: White Pike whiskey,
pepperoncini, pepperoni
66
H
ouse-made brunch pastas like garganelli
verde with lamb Bolognese and pecorino are
a specialty here, but don’t hesitate to stick with
more conventional dishes like tomato and squash
frittata, especially since the restaurant doesn’t
serve it during the week. The seasonal hash and
pancakes are popular standbys, while the chef’s
favorite has L’Apicio’s signature modern Italian
twist — Parmesan French toast with prosciutto
cotto and a fried egg. The space soars to the same
heights as the menu with multi-paned glass, mirrors and intimate table lighting, while lacy oversize globe lights add a whimsical touch.
Food photos by Alex Moskovitz. Restaurant photos by Michael Morales.
CULINARY CAMEOS
All photographs courtesy of Tenth Avenue Cookshop
TENTH AVENUE COOKSHOP
156 Tenth Avenue
212.924.4440
cookshopny.com
Brunch: Weekends 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Reservations: Accepted for inside dining,
outside seating is first-come, first-served
C
ookshop focuses on local, seasonal and
sustainable ingredients for everything,
even the fruit garnish. Relax in this sun-lit,
glass-enclosed corner of Tenth Avenue and
dig into the chef’s favorite, baked brioche
French toast topped with almond custard,
Catskills Mountain honey, candied almonds
and seasonal fruit. Start the day on a spicy
note with huevos rancheros, or indulge your
sweet side with a decadent order of fresh
ricotta beignets with lemon curd. Whatever
you order, the chefs working the wood-burning oven provide almost as much theatre as
the West Chelsea people-watching.
SIGNATURE BLOODY MARYS
Oaxaca Maria: Mezcal, cilantro, lime
Chipotle Mary: Jim Beam Devil’s Cut bourbon, chipotle, fresh lime
Pickled Mary: vodka, pickle juice, pickled red onion
BLT Mary: House-infused bacon vodka, applewood bacon slice,
lettuce leaf
Bloody Bull: Vodka, tomato juice, beef bouillon, lemon and lime,
beef jerky
Red Snappah: Gin, Worcestershire, fresh horseradish, Boston Bittahs
CULINARY CAMEOS
ISOLA TRATTORIA AND CRUDO BAR
9 Crosby Street (inside the Mondrian SoHo) • 212.389.0000 • isolasoho.com
Brunch: Weekends 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Reservations: Encouraged
he emphasis at Isola is on la dolce vita. Filled with sumptuous plantings and hanging chandeliers, the stunning rooftop greenhouse is designed to evoke the elegance and splendor of the Italian coast. The chef
recommends the weekend-only flatbread uovo pizza with fried eggs,
smoked ricotta, mortadella, spinach, peppers, onions, fontina and hollandaise. But the most popular Mediterranean-influenced dish is poached
eggs on a toasted black pepper-pancetta biscuit with asparagus hollandaise. Don’t forget to try the thick-cut bacon! Brunch at Isola is all about
carefree ease in a magnificent setting that transports you out of the city
for a true mini-escape.
SIGNATURE COCKTAILS
House Bloody: Belvedere vodka, tomato juice, horseradish, Worcestershire, lemon
Bloody Caprese: Absolut vodka, Tanqueray Malacca gin, tomato
juice, balsamic vinegar, capers, grated Parmesan
Sangriento: Del Maguey Vida and Chichicapa Mezcals, tomato juice,
chipotle, Maggi seasoning
Monstro Verde: Pernod absinthe, fresh lime, cucumber juice, mint
All photographs courtesy of Morgans Hotel Group
T
Egg photo courtesy of Egg Restaurant. The Strand photo courtesy of The Strand Smokehouse. The Clock Bar photo by Danfredo Photography. Sanford’s photo by Menti Studio. Gran Electrica photo by Noah Fecks. Pasticceria Bruno photo by Elvis Pulaj.
Out-of-Borough
EXPERIENCE
Take to the bridges and tunnels
to explore tasteful destinations
in New York’s four other boroughs.
I
f long waits aren’t a problem, check
out The Strand or Sanford’s in Astoria. At The Strand, house-smoked
meat is on order, whether added to
your pancake stack or in the “meat and
potato” entrée with brisket or beef
short ribs. Sanford’s prix fixe brunch
with a drink is one of the best bargains
around, and the line outside is testimonial to the food. Try Pasticceria
Bruno in Staten Island, where the
fresh pastries, entrées and champagne
can’t be beat. Make time for The Clock
Bar in the historic South Bronx clock
tower for a broad spectrum of Mediterranean flavors in an intimate setting.
Spice up the day with huevos rancheros,
tacos or ceviche at Gran Electrica in
Dumbo, where the excellent cocktail
list goes with anything. How could you
resist brunch at a restaurant called
Egg? At this Williamsburg crowdpleaser, the homemade buttermilk biscuits are a must-have, especially when
savoring any of the namesake dishes.
All six of these are worth exploring!
Egg
The Clock Bar
The Strand
Sanford’s
Gran Electrica
THE STRAND
25-27 Broadway, Queens • 718.440.3231 • thestrandsmokehouse.com
SANFORD’S
30-13 Broadway, Queens • 718.932.9569 • sanfordsnyc.com
PASTICCERIA BRUNO
1650 Hylan Blvd, Staten Island • 718.987.5859 • pasticceriabruno.com
THE CLOCK BAR
112 Lincoln Avenue, Bronx • 718.684.2338 • theclockbar.com
GRAN ELECTRICA
5 Front Street, Brooklyn • (718) 852-2700 • granelectrica.com
EGG
135 North 5th Street, Brooklyn • 718.302.5151 • eggrestaurant.com
Pasticceria Bruno
69
LUDOVIC BALLOUARD
Spin
DOCTOR
Ludovic Ballouard bends tradition to
his will and invents surprising ways of
reading time.
A
BY SCOTT HICKEY
fter honing his prodigious skills
at several of Switzerland’s
finest watchmaking maisons,
Ludovic Ballouard stepped
into the spotlight in 2009 to establish his own independent brand in
Geneva. A year later, he astounded
the watch world with his first creation, the Upside Down.
Despite industry awards and
collector acclaim, Ballouard refused to be distracted by success.
Instead, he remained focused on
finishing his next watch, the Half
Time. Like its predecessor, the
timepiece was greeted by rave reviews when it was unveiled last year.
Attuned to engage both the eye
and the mind, the Half Time resists
the idea of instant gratification and
refuses to give up its secrets in a
passing glance. Those who choose to invest a moment in patient exploration are
repaid with a deeper appreciation of the
playful complexity at the heart of Ballouard’s watches.
The journey begins at the bottom
of the dial, where a retrograde hand
indicates the minutes along an arcshaped scale. When it reaches the
end, the hand snaps back to zero
and simultaneously triggers the
watch’s unorthodox hour display.
It’s composed of twelve roman
numerals on two concentric circles that are split horizontally.
70
A 41mm platinum case houses the
Half-Time’s patented movement, which
indicates the current hour at the top of
the dial using two rotating discs.
Above: The Half-Time’s movement was specially designed so that its
complex design could be appreciated through the clear caseback.
Top right: Dark-blue lacquer gives the titanium dial its distinctive color
in this new version of the Upside Down.
Bottom right: The dial’s geometric design is crafted from mother-ofpearl in this extremely rare version of the Upside Down. Only 12 will be
made, each in rose gold.
The halves rotate out of sync, making the numbers
unreadable with one exception. Every 60 minutes, the
rings turn quickly before stopping with a soft, satisfying click as they form the current hour perfectly at the
top of the black dial.
REVERSE ENGINEERING
The Upside Down, Ludovic Ballouard’s inaugural timepiece, shows off two sensational new looks this year.
The first expands the line’s palette with a shimmering
dark-blue dial, a vivid counterpoint to the bright platinum case.
The second model, available in a rose gold case, features a remarkable dial made entirely from mother-ofpearl. Different colored sections of the iridescent nacre
radiate from the center of the dial, forming a dynamic
geometric mosaic. And while it’s beautiful to behold,
Ballouard says using mother-of-pearl for the individual
rotating hour displays was a challenge. “We had to be
patient because the material is so delicate to work with.
But I think the results speak for themselves.”
The meticulous production required will limit production of the watch to just 12 numbered pieces.
These new aesthetic choices complement the patented complication that fueled the Upside Down’s initial success. At first, the watch appears to be a shining
beacon of understated classicism. Closer inspection,
however, reveals that the hour numerals are inverted
with one exception. The one facing in the proper direction indicates the current hour. Don’t blink when the
minute hand reaches the 12, or you’ll miss as the new
hour rights itself and the previous hour reverses its position.
With the Upside Down and Half Time, independent
watchmaker Ludovic Ballouard invites the world to see
time differently. ¨
71
MAÎTRES DU TEMPS
The Chapter Three Reveal shares its
secrets on command by exposing hidden
rollers that indicate the hour at home
when traveling and whether it’s day or
night. The panels close to conceal this
remarkable complication.
72
Major
REVELATION
L
ike followers of a Dickens serialization, enthusiasts for the masterpieces produced by Maîtres du
Temps must wait for releases one
“chapter” at a time. For the latest installation in the on-going saga, perhaps a
different Victorian literary series is more
apt: Sherlock Holmes. This time, the
watchmaking giants assembled for the
project have graced the Chapter Three
Reveal with its own hidden mysteries.
Maîtres du Temps is one of a tiny
number of “extreme” watch houses that
create their pieces by employing the
world’s best independent master watchmakers on a project-by-project basis.
Each watchmaker chosen for a “chapter”
has his own brand, but Maîtres du Temps
provides the opportunity for the watchmakers to stretch beyond their usual theatres of operation.
To date, the cast of maestri includes
Peter Speake-Marin, Daniel Roth and
Christophe Claret. Now, the roster has
been extended to include Kari Voutilainen and Andreas Strehler, whose work on
the Chapter Three Reveal will delight
those who cherish novel methods of dial
“morphing.”
Voutilainen and Strehler started
with a stylish round case with an opulent guilloché dial that displays hours,
minutes, seconds, date and phases of the
moon. Unlike the practice for most “high
complications,” though, the pair chose to
spurn the obvious. Extra functions beyond those just listed have their own
hideaways, thus endowing the Chapter
Three Reveal with its own secretive mien.
Holmes would approve.
BY KEN KESSLER
Maîtres du Temps adds a hint of intrigue to
haute horlogerie with a clever complication.
Hidden behind a peek-a-boo aperture, two separate rotating cylinders
are used by the second-time zone display.
CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
While the primary indications remain on permanent display, the second-time zone and day/night indications are concealed behind sliding
panels. Thus, the complement of functions serves the seasoned world
traveler, without calling attention to the fact that he is wearing a dualtime zone wristwatch. To some, declaring one’s standing as a globetrotter might seem self-aggrandizing.
A day/night indicator should always accompany a second time
zone if one is to avoid calling home at 3 a.m. instead of 3 p.m. However,
while these indications are useful when traveling, Voutilainen and
Strehler realized that they are not necessary all of the time. And for
the discreet individual, an uncluttered dial is a refined dial.
73
MAÎTRES DU TEMPS
The Chapter Three Reveal’s intimate secrets are
disclosed only at the owner’s pleasure. A pusher set into
the crown lowers two secret panels in the dial to reveal
the two concealed indications, both displayed on
Maîtres du Temps’ signature rollers. Again, a Holmesian concept: The hidden panels are reminiscent of the
secret hideaways in mansions, or concealed doors in
Gothic libraries.
At the 6 o’clock position, the second-time zone indicator is displayed on a dual roller: hours 1–6 on the first
with the remainder on the other. A traveler would typically set this to his home time. The day/night roller at
the 12 o’clock position rotates once every 24 hours and
features the sun icon to symbolize day and the night sky
for night. It is exposed at the same moment that the
second zone is addressed.
Pressing the requisite pusher set into the case at 9
o’clock disengages the synchronization and enables the
hours and minutes to be set to a second time zone while
traveling. The hands tell the local time at a glance, while
the rollers indicate the hour at home and whether it is
day or night there.
The 5N red gold case, which measures 42mm,
frames a silver guilloché dial. Clous de Paris
decorates the seconds and calendar displays.
UNIFIED FOUNDATION
Master watchmakers Kari
Voutilainen and Andreas
Strehler worked together to
create the movement, the
first made entirely in-house
by Maîtres du Temps.
74
The Chapter Three Reveal represents a
milestone in Maîtres du Temps’ evolution, for it features the company’s first
movement manufactured completely inhouse. Hosting such complexity in the
confines of a wristwatch case that is a
mere 42mm in diameter demanded lateral thinking. For instance, the bespoke
movement incorporates the mechanism
for opening and closing the “reveal” panels in the dial. Building this functionality
into the movement rather than increasing the complexity of the case maximizes
both reliability and use of space. Even so,
the case alone contains 49 components.
Inside the Reveal, the manually
wound movement, with a power reserve
of 36 hours, is regulated by a Straumann
escapement. This features a lightweight,
energy-efficient escape lever and balance
spring with an isochronism-improving
Breguet overcoil.
Sumptuous as it is complex, the
Chapter Three Reveal is offered in a 5N
red or white gold case with a blue, silver
or gray guilloché dial.
FURTHER REVELATIONS
Starting a new chapter doesn’t mean
Maîtres du Temps turns the page on the
earlier models. Also released this year is
a spectacular take on the watch that
started it all. The Chapter One has been
treated to a laser-etched, sapphire crystal dial that implores the observer to discover the meticulously decorated movement and all its intricate inner workings.
Its ultra-thin (.40mm) sapphire
dial is cut and precisely pierced by
laser more than 20 times to enable the
anchors to securely fasten the appliqués that mark the passage of time. The
process of machining the multi-beveled minute track, with its hand-painted luminous indices, illustrates that
the level of detail in Chapter One
Round Transparence is not just limited to the movement.
The meticulous process of fitting
the tourbillon cage to the fine, nearly
invisible dial is reserved for only the
most accomplished of watchmakers.
The result is a highly legible timepiece
with a breathtaking view into mechanical mastery.
Further distinguishing the Transparence from the existing Chapter One
models is the addition of a preciousmetal finish to the chronograph bridge,
visible through the octagonal sapphire
display back. Through a patented plating process, four precious metals
belonging to the platinum family —
platinum, rhodium, ruthenium and
palladium — give the chronograph
bridge a unique, darkened appearance.
The Chapter One Round Transparence is emblematic of the evolution of
the collection as it continues to inspire
five years after its launch. A world-first
combination of complications, its functions and features include a tourbillon,
mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde
date, retrograde GMT and two rolling
bars indicating the day of the week and
phases of the moon — now a signature
for the maison.
With the advent of Chapter One Transparence, in both tonneau and
round cases, the heart of the watch is proudly revealed for all to see.
A true rarity, only 11 of each version will be made.
By expanding the Chapter One collection with the Transparence,
Mâitres du Temps proves that its story of constant reinvention is never
a closed book. ¨
The Chapter One Round Transparence’s dial is made of sapphire crystal to showcase
the complex movement below. Made in 5N red gold and limited to 11 pieces, the
watch combines a chronograph, tourbillon, retrograde displays for the date and
GMT, plus the brand’s trademark roller indicators for the day and moon phase.
75
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER
Remaking
HISTORY
Michel Parmigiani began his watchmaking career restoring
masterpieces from a bygone era. Today, he and a small team
of artisans at Parmigiani Fleurier continue this legacy, and in the
process find inspiration for their contemporary watch collection.
BY JONATHAN BUES
I
n an industry whose history is measured in centuries, the high-end watch manufacture Parmigiani
Fleurier is very young indeed, its story reaching
back to the 1970s, not the 1700s. Still, Parmigiani
Fleurier occupies a unique place in Swiss watchmaking. It began when a virtuoso watchmaker met a large
restoration project equal to his talents.
The Fleurier-based company’s roots lie in a small
workshop led by Michel Parmigiani, whose almost preternatural ability to revive centuries-old clocks and
watches gained him the admiration of Pierre Landolt,
president of the Sandoz Family Foundation. Landolt,
who was responsible for the Maurice Sandoz Collection,
one of the world’s premier museum-grade watch and
clock collections, entrusted its restoration to the thenyoung Parmigiani. Nearly two decades later, having witnessed his creativity and determination in the difficult
task of breathing life into the collection, the foundation
proposed a new watchmaking venture to showcase Parmigiani’s formidable talents. The first watches bearing
the brand name Parmigiani Fleurier resulted from this
partnership in the mid-’90s.
Since acquiring the means to produce his own line
of contemporary timepieces in 1996, Parmigiani has
continued to maintain a department devoted to restoring historically important watches and clocks, often
unique pieces crafted hundreds of years ago. The Swissborn master watchmaker continues this difficult, timeconsuming work because he and his small team of
restorers are among the few who can do it. What’s more,
this difficult work provides a practically endless source
of inspiration for the brand’s contemporary watch
collections.
EXTENDING A HAND
Above and top right: A 19th century oval-shaped pocket
watch from the English watchmakers Vardon and Stedman,
after restoration by Parmigiani Fleurier.
76
This was the case with Parmigiani Fleurier’s deceptively complex Ovale Pantographe. Tracing its inspiration
to a restoration piece that entered Parmigiani’s workshop in 1997, the Ovale Pantographe has its origins in a
pocket watch produced in the early 1800s by the English watchmakers Vardon and Stedman.
The Ovale Pantographe’s
namesake complication
causes its telescopic hands
to trace the perimeter of its
oval-shaped dial.
77
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER
That original pocket watch is a
unique example of fine watchmaking for
which there was no “repair manual.” The
shop that created it no longer exists, and
restoring its complicated timepieces is
now the province of the few watchmakers
willing to invest the time and effort in researching the methods used to create
such watches, even fabricating replacement parts to exacting standards when
necessary.
The enchanting complication at the
center of this museum-quality timepiece
is the pantographe, a complex horological system comprising telescopic hands
that trace the contours of an elliptical
dial and case through a complex feat of
engineering.
After giving the masterpiece of
Vardon and Stedman a second life, Parmigiani concluded that such a complication would impress today’s collectors
just as it had the connoisseurs of yesteryear, and the decision was made to embark upon a new line with this historical
complication at its heart.
Thanks to a clever bit of engineering, the Ovale Pantographe’s folding hands
are never the same length to avoid confusion when reading the time.
INDEPENDENT SPIRIT
The finely decorated movement that powers
the Vardon and Stedman pocket watch, the
inspiration behind Parmigiani’s Ovale
collection.
78
As a true manufacture — a watch company that makes its own movements in-house — Parmigiani Fleurier is vertically integrated. From
notoriously difficult-to-make components such as hairsprings,
balance wheels and microscopic screws, to bridges, plates and dials,
the Fleurier-based brand has the machinery and the know-how to
meet virtually all of its manufacturing needs internally. It may be surprising that with all of these skills and technology, Parmigiani
Fleurier remains a niche haute horlogerie brand, crafting about 5,000
timepieces a year.
With resources outstripping brands several times larger, choosing
an in-house movement to power the Ovale Pantographe was a rather
simple task. The watchmakers of Parmigiani Fleurier decided upon a
hand-wound caliber with a power reserve of eight days. To this
already complex movement, they added a module, regulated by a cam
mechanism, to control the precise lengthening and retracting of the
telescopic hands as they traverse the watch’s elliptical dial. The cam
system was further fine tuned so that the hour hand and the minute
hand are never the same length at the same time, a seemingly minor
detail that in fact prevents crucial errors in time-telling. Twelvefifteen, for instance, can’t be confused with 3 o’clock.
DEFYING GRAVITY
The fine black mother-of-pearl dial on the Ovale
Tourbillon includes an indicator for the sevenday power reserve. The eight-shaped opening
nearby spotlights the series-coupled winding
barrels where the energy is stored.
One of the biggest challenges in creating
the Ovale Pantographe came in producing the
watch’s hands themselves, each comprising
several “links” of titanium. The watchmakers
of Parmigiani Fleurier teamed with Switzerland’s Lausanne Institute of Technology,
deciding on a modern laser-cutting technique
that promised accuracy to within 2 to 4 microns. The micro-components that resulted
from this modern process were then delivered to Parmigiani’s most skilled watchmakers, who hand-assembled each minute and
hour hand, carefully riveting the blued titanium segments to ensure every joint had the
appropriate flexibility to extend and retract
as needed.
The Ovale Pantographe is available in
two versions, the first with a white gold case
and the second made in rose gold. Both versions feature a dial decorated with a barleycorn grain motif, adding an extra layer of
depth to a dial accented by blued hands and
numerals. Like all Parmigiani Fleurier timepieces, the Ovale Pantographe is sold on an
Hermès alligator strap.
In addition to the Ovale Pantographe, Parmigiani created a second
timepiece sharing this elliptical case shape with a complication
already familiar to fine watch collectors. This mechanism,
the 30-second tourbillon, is something of a Parmigiani Fleurier
specialty.
The movement powering the Ovale Tourbillon is the PF 501, a
manually wound caliber with a seven-day power reserve. The most
impressive aspect of this movement is its escapement, the part of
the watch that regulates its time telling. Originally used in 18th
century pocket watches, the tourbillon is a mechanical complication created to enhance the reliability and accuracy of a timepiece
by canceling potential errors resulting from gravity.
The typical tourbillon completes one revolution every 60
seconds. Parmigiani Fleurier’s tourbillon is twice as fast, which
research has demonstrated increases the efficiency of the complication in canceling positional errors. It also provides a transfixing, high-speed show, visible through an aperture on the dial,
which is further decorated with côtes de Genève in the white gold
version and sumptuous black mother-of-pearl in the rose gold version. Only 60 examples of the Ovale Tourbillon will ever be made,
30 in each metal, assuring a level of exclusivity befitting this work
of haute horlogerie.
Both new Ovale models offer collectors a link to a unique
museum piece, blending historical designs and complications
with modern manufacturing technologies. What will come next
from this ingenious brand? One might need to peer inside the
Parmigiani Fleurier restoration atelier for an answer. ¨
The white gold version of the Ovale Tourbillon comes with a white gold
dial decorated with côtes de Genève.
79
PIAGET
Light up the
NIGHT
BY ELISE NUSSBAUM
Center stage belongs to Piaget,
with elegant jeweled timepieces
from the Limelight collection
that command an audience.
N
From left: The Limelight Gala’s rose
gold case is set with 62 diamonds
that frame the silvered dial and its
stylized Roman numerals.
The Limelight Tonneau combines
Piaget’s take on the tonneau-shaped
case with a dial that is emphatically
contemporary. More than 1,000
diamonds cover everything, from
the white gold case to the bracelet.
80
othing catches the light
like diamonds, and Piaget’s
full-pavé Limelight Tonneau is the apotheosis of
all things sparkly and spritely.
Crafted in white gold that seamlessly joins one row of precious stones
to the next, this timepiece is completely draped in gems. One hundred and ten diamonds line the
tonneau-shaped case, framing
the pavé-set dial upon which
four white gold Arabic numerals float in a sea of 237 diamonds. To further gladden the
hearts of jewelry lovers everywhere, the white gold bracelet is a
work of fine jewelry unto itself,
with an integrated folding clasp
and links that echo the case’s tonneau shape and encircle the wrist
with 672 diamonds. All in all, five carats of diamonds bedeck this showstopper, requiring a full day of work to
set the dial and even longer to complete
the bracelet.
The white gold case (22x30mm) is a
new, smaller size for the Tonneau collection, as Piaget seeks to provide a wider
range of options for Limelight aficionados. The case is water resistant to 30
meters, and the quartz movement inside
is a creation of the Piaget manufacture.
Another member of the family, the Limelight Tonneau, might be considered more restrained, were it not for its size, an imposing 27x38mm.
The extra-large rose gold case — adorned with 86 diamonds (1.8 carats) —
provides a broader canvas for its captivating dial, which is pavé-set with
293 diamonds. The diamonds contrast with their rose gold setting, and the
matching, ultra-modern numerals, to provide depth and complexity to the
piece’s aesthetic. A chestnut-brown satin strap resonates with the warm
golden tones of the case, reprising the diamond theme on its gem-set
folding clasp. A single stone on the crown provides the finishing touch
of luxury.
FEELING GROOVY
Below from left: Powered by Piaget’s
690P quartz movement, the Limelight
Tonneau boasts an extra-large rose
gold case that measures 27x38mm
and is water resistant to 30 meters.
Redefining symmetry within a
diameter of just 38mm, the white gold
Limelight Gala shimmers with 2.8
carats of diamonds on the case and
1.7 carats on the dial.
Inspired by the freewheeling spirit of the 1960s, Piaget presents a fanciful
take on typical watch geometry with the Gala collection. On the Limelight
Gala, two delicately extended lugs subvert the conventional notion of
symmetry. Subtly suggesting the memorable year 1969, the sinuous 38mm
white gold case (set with 62 progressively sized diamonds) encircles a
dial that is anything but understated. There are 336 pavé-set diamonds
that shine out at us, setting off the slim elegance of the timepiece’s
minimalist white gold hour markers and hands.
Piaget’s rose gold Limelight Gala also draws influence from the
Mod-design ethos of the ’60s. Its classic silvered dial, white satin
strap, slightly swirling motif and tapered Roman numerals call to
mind the era’s swinging style. Its 32mm rose gold case and hands
temper the watch’s chic monochrome feel. Sixty-two diamonds
(1.8 carats) bring their sparkle to the case, changing in size for
a rounded, organic effect. One more brilliant-cut diamond
shimmers on the ardillon buckle.
All models in the Gala collection carry Piaget in their DNA.
The manufacture creates each timepiece in house, from the first
spark of an idea to the sparkling finishing of the case. ¨
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81
RICHARD MILLE
Peak
PERFORMANCE
Crafted from ultra-light materials and constructed
using bleeding-edge technologies, Richard Mille’s
sporty timepieces fight above their weight class.
BY JONATHAN BUES
T
he first time someone picks up one of Richard Mille’s horological masterpieces, there is an almost universal sense of surprise at just how light it is. Some laugh; others shift the watch
in their hand in pure amazement. Even those who know that
Monsieur Mille specializes in watches that don’t tip the scales still
react this way.
This is likely because the substantial heft of a fine timepiece conveys a kind of permanence and worth. We learn this from experiences
with traditional watch brands that favor cases, bracelets and buckles
crafted from heavy precious metals.
What sets Richard Mille apart, and what has allowed him to share
the stage with brands much older than his own, has been his eagerness to blaze a path in the other direction. When Richard Mille imagines a tourbillon or a chronograph, he is always thinking about how
these complex mechanisms and their cases can be made lighter and
less obtrusive to the wearer, while increasing their shock resistance.
Unsurprisingly, this philosophy resonates with horologically inclined
athletes.
While most brand ambassadors can be seen running to their
trainer or their caddie for their “endorsement watch” only after the
game or the race — all of Richard Mille’s ambassadors wear their lightweight timepieces in the heat of competition. Perhaps the most famous of these is Rafael Nadal, the eight-time French Open Champion
who has worn a Richard Mille tourbillon during all of his professional
matches since his victory at Roland Garros in 2010. The partnership
has greatly increased the watchmaker’s visibility, paving the way for a
number of additional high-profile partnerships with elite sportsmen
such as golfer Bubba Watson and the Olympic sprinter Yohan Blake.
TIGHT WIRE ACT
This year, Richard Mille presented an updated version of the famous
“Nadal Watch” in the form of the new RM 27-01, a feather-light tourbillon weighing a mere 19 grams, Velcro strap included. Achieving
such a lightweight mechanical timepiece — and one with such a
complicated escapement — required thinking about watchmaking in
an unconventional way.
82
The RM 27-01 is the latest
timepiece to come from the
partnership between Richard
Mille and the Spanish tennis
ace Rafael Nadal, who wears
his watch on the court.
83
RICHARD MILLE
The RM 27-01 found its inspiration
from the world of civil engineering. The
movement’s baseplate is secured within
the case by four braided-steel cables just
.35 mm in diameter. This structure, which
recalls a suspension bridge, provides the
strength and the flexibility required to
protect the movement, itself just 3.5
grams in weight thanks to its aluminumlithium and grade-5 titanium components. And lest we forget that this
50-piece limited edition is made to withstand the abuse of Rafa’s blistering serve
and groundstrokes, it has been engineered
to withstand accelerations greater than
5,000 G’s.
BUILDING THE PERFECT BEAST
Named for the Jamaican sprinter, the
limited edition RM 59-01 Yohan Blake
features a tourbillon movement protected
by claw-shaped bridges colored green
and yellow.
84
One of the latest additions to the expanding roster of Richard Mille
athlete-ambassadors is Jamaican sprinter Yohan Blake. His signature
model — the RM 59-01 Yohan Blake — debuted earlier this year. While
Blake, of course, isn’t the first “racer” to join the Richard Mille family,
he is the first to hit the track on sneakers instead of wheels.
Blake worked with Richard Mille to develop a performance tourbillon that was lightweight, aerodynamic and comfortable from the
starting blocks to the finish line. The four dynamic bridges spanning
the movement evoke the claws of the “beast,” Blake’s nickname. Machined from a lightweight, corrosion-resistant aluminum alloy, these
bridges protect the watch’s tourbillon and power-transmission mechanisms, while also anchoring the movement to the case. The bridge’s
green color is achieved through eloxing, a treatment using anodic oxidation, while the yellow portions are hand-painted. Together, these
colors form a vivid tribute to the flag of Blake’s homeland.
But the most striking feature of the RM 59-01 is the shape of the
aerodynamically re-engineered tonneau case. Manufactured from
translucent composite with carbon nanotubes, the case’s tapering
prevents the crown from rubbing against the sprinter’s wrist, resulting in a barely noticeable sensation when worn. With only 50 examples made for the world, expect the RM 59-01 to move lightning fast,
just like Blake.
Left: The RM 037 is made for women who
want a mechanical movement and impeccable style. Its diamond-set case is available
in titanium, white gold or rose gold.
HEAD GAMES
While performance and cutting-edge watchmaking form the foundation of Richard Mille’s DNA, his artistic side can always be found in
his watch designs. Perhaps never more so than in the new RM 52-01
Skull Nano Ceramique, which prominently displays a rose gold skull
dial set directly above the movement. Far from new to Richard Mille’s
design universe, the skull is making a repeat appearance after last
year’s RM 052. This year, however, the skull’s front and back (seen
through the sapphire caseback) are rendered in 5N red gold. TZP, a
form of highly advanced, lightweight ceramic, forms the RM 52-01 bezel and caseback. For the case middle, Richard Mille chose carbon
nanotubes for their high strength-to-weight ratio.
CROWNING ACHIEVEMENT
Above & below: Like an horological Jolly
Roger, the rose gold skull on the RM 52-01
grips the tourbillon mechanism in its teeth.
This limited edition of 30 pieces is available
in a ceramic and carbon nanotube case.
As the popularity and visibility of high-end mechanical timepieces
have increased around the world, so have the number of women watch
enthusiasts. Richard Mille has long produced a handful of feminine
models. Most recently, he added the RM 037, a new range of slightly
larger watches that are available in rose gold, white gold or titanium,
with an option for diamonds.
To complement its signature Richard Mille styling, the RM 037
includes an automatic movement with an oversize date display that
can be adjusted quickly utilizing the button on the left side of the case.
Located near the crown, a second button operates like the stick used
to change gears in a car. But instead of putting the car into drive, this
button selects one of the crown’s three functions. An indicator on the
dial clearly shows which “gear” is engaged: W for winding, N for neutral and H for hand setting.
To help extend longevity, the watch is equipped with Richard
Mille’s patented case-mounted crown system. Its design maximizes
the watch’s shock resistance and minimizes the potential for damage
caused by user error when operating the crown.
From his early days making watches inspired by Formula One, to
more recent collaborations with tennis, golf and track and field, Richard Mille just may have created the ultimate luxury sports watch. ¨
85
ULYSSE NARDIN
Mechanical
MELODY
BY ELISE NUSSBAUM
“S
Ulysse Nardin will
make watch connoisseurs
believe in love at first
sight — and first listen —
with its latest creation.
trangers in the night, exchanging glances…” Ulysse Nardin
blends tradition and advanced materials with the Stranger,
a limited edition timepiece that pays tribute to Frank Sinatra’s multi-Grammy winning smash by playing the song’s
melody on the hour, or on request.
Widely recognized as a master of the minute repeater, the independent watchmaker knows that this particular complication demands
not only timekeeping accuracy, but musical acumen as well. To achieve
the latter, it stages a delightful show on the dial by placing the musicbox mechanism front and center. Notice how its functional elements
are seamlessly transformed into aesthetic ones. The pins on the rotating disc used to pluck the individual notes become part of the time
display. Even the blades — each one carefully calibrated to sound the
right note — radiate from the top of the dial like fireworks.
To maximize its chronometric potential, the Stranger draws upon
Ulysse Nardin’s role as a trailblazer in the use of silicon in watchmaking. Its movement, crafted in-house, utilizes this versatile material for the escapement, anchor and balance spring. Not only is silicon
a hard-wearing and lightweight material, it also does not require
regular lubrication.
To conduct this mechanical symphony, there are pushers located
on the left side of the case that allow the wearer to either play
the melody on demand, or block its automatic performance at the top
of the hour. For even more control over the movement, the Stranger
offers a specialized crown. Instead of pulling it out to make adjustments, the crown is fitted with a button that switches between its different functions. A display on the right side of the dial indicates which
mode is currently engaged, pointing to a T for time setting, D for
adjusting the date and W for winding the movement.
On the hour and on demand, the rotating disc at the top of the Stranger’s
dial plucks the finely tuned blades to play the melody to Frank Sinatra’s
hit, “Strangers In the Night.” Production is limited to 99 pieces.
87
ULYSSE NARDIN
LOST IN A MASQUERADE
Carnival is a time of wild abandon, artifice and intrigue, especially in Venice, which is known for its extravagant masquerades.
Ulysse Nardin utilizes two specialized aspects of the watchmaker’s
art — enameling and jaquemart figures — to enliven the dial of the
limited edition Minute Repeater Carnival of Venice.
The result is a vivid tableau that expertly uses color and shading
to bring to life an ambiguous rendezvous near the Rialto Bridge on
Venice’s Grand Canal. This masterpiece of enameling could stand on
its own as a watchmaking triumph, but Ulysse Nardin pushes the
envelope further, adding jaquemarts for a truly astounding effect.
These moving figures belong to a tradition that pre-dates
portable watches, and their use here breathes life into a scene
beautifully depicted in champlevé enamel. The figures wear Carnival masks, which they lift in tandem with the sound of the watch’s
minute repeater as it chimes the hours, quarter hours and minutes. This
mechanical animation is powered by a manually wound movement housed
inside the watch’s platinum case.
This truly extraordinary timepiece, with the triple achievement of minute
repeater, champlevé enamel dial and animated jaquemarts, is available in a limited edition of just 18 pieces.
SNAKE CHARMER
Champlevé enameling proves to be a crucial element
in the horologer’s Classico Serpent, housed in a
40mm rose gold case and released in a limited
edition of 88 pieces.
The delicate art of champlevé enameling
requires a skillful hand and endless patience. The artisan chisels out hollows on the metal dial, filling them with colored vitreous enamel, which
takes on its rich, translucent hues through a time-intensive process
that includes multiple firings in a kiln.
Ulysse Nardin’s acquisition of the renowned dial manufacturer
Donzé Cadrans solidified its position as one of the premier enamelers in horology, a status this exquisitely dialed timepiece proves in
the blink of an eye. An intricately crafted serpent rises up from a coil
of scales, gleaming iridescent in peacock shades of blue and green,
fangs extended, poised to strike. The warm backdrop of brown gingko
leaves underscores the timeliness of the motif, which was made to coincide with the Chinese Year of the Snake.
A different kind of choreography unwinds on the reverse side of the
watch, where a sapphire crystal caseback reveals the COSC-certified automatic movement that drives a display of hours, minutes and seconds.
From top: The 42mm platinum case of the Carnival of Venice houses a manual-winding movement that animates the jaquemarts, which move when the minute repeater
chimes the time.
The rare art of traditional champlevé enameling takes center stage on the Classico
Serpent, which is produced in a limited edition of 88 pieces.
88
EXPOSED BRILLIANCE
Despite its enameling expertise, Ulysse Nardin understands that sometimes the
most visually stimulating way to express the spirit of a timepiece is to negate
the dial altogether. Skeleton Tourbillon Manufacture serves as a prime example of the notion of addition by subtraction. The design pulls the curtain
back on its eponymous complication, using judicious skeletonization to
transform the movement into art.
All skeletonization requires artistry, a deft hand and an encyclopedic knowledge of horology to remove all but the essential from the
plate and bridges. However, Ulysse Nardin’s in-house movement for
the Skeleton Tourbillon Manufacture stands out even in this rarefied company, as it has been specifically designed with visual impact
in mind.
This is immediately apparent with one look at the symmetry of the
tourbillon carriage at 6 o’clock and the barrel above it, as well as the
movement’s contrasting finishes and carefully arrayed color variations.
As part of the aesthetic element that only skeletonization can bring to a
timepiece, a ratchet wheel that covers the barrel becomes an informative
aesthetic component in its own right, bearing Ulysse Nardin’s name and
insignia as well as noting the timepiece’s 170-hour power reserve.
FREAK CHIC
The Freak Phantom further develops Ulysse Nardin’s revolutionary Freak
design, which helped redefine watchmaking when it was introduced in 2001. This
new, limited-edition incarnation of the Freak extends the original’s legacy by
further refining its radical tourbillon carousel movement and then cloaking it in
chic, shadowy garb.
Black dominates its unusual time display, which eliminates the traditional hands
found in most watches. Instead, the Freak Phantom indicates the hours with the actual
watch movement, which is technically a carousel tourbillon that rotates once every
12 hours. The escapement bridge turns around the dial on a toothed gear once
an hour to show the minutes. At the opposite end of the bridge spins a
second tourbillon. Specifically, it’s a flying tourbillon, a specialized
variation designed to operate without the standard support bridge,
which results in an unobstructed view of the mechanism. Its cage,
which is shaped like an arrow, indicates the seconds as it turns.
The manufacture’s flair for invention also makes the Freak
Phantom uniquely user-friendly by transforming the upper bezel
into a device to set the time and the lower bezel into a crown to
wind the watch. The Freak Phantom thus elegantly dispenses
with three elements — the dial, hands and crown — that more
convention-bound watchmakers would be lost without. ¨
From top: The Skeleton Tourbillon Manufacture is available in
platinum as a limited edition of 99 pieces. Ulysse Nardin will
also produce a second limited edition, also 99 pieces, in rose gold.
Instead of a crown, the Freak Phantom’s caseback bezel rotates to
wind the mainspring, which holds eight days of reserve power. The
upper bezel also turns and is used to adjust the time.
89
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
The Malte Tourbillon’s rose gold case
measures 38 x 48mm, and is the largest
model in the Malte collection. It features
a hand-wound movement with a 45hour power reserve and has earned the
celebrated Geneva Seal.
90
Bending
TI
TIME
A
s one of the first to produce tonneau-shaped
watches in the early 1900s, the historic
Genevoise manufacture quickly appreciated
the possibilities of this barrel-shaped form.
In 2012, Vacheron Constantin celebrated the centennial
of its first tonneau watch by redesigning the elegant
Malte case, a modern heir to the legacy.
The current Malte collection was introduced in
2000. In 2012 the shape was further refined with a more
tapered contour that gives the Malte a more tailored
and contemporary look. To showcase this new style,
Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Malte Tourbillon in
rose gold. The case, which measures 38 x 48mm, is the
largest in the Malte collection.
To further commemorate the 100th Anniversary, the
maison also introduced a new tourbillon movement,
Caliber 2795. The intricate rotating cage of the tourbillon contains highly refined components responsible for
maintaining a steady timekeeping rate. The cage rotates
to diffuse gravity’s force on the movement, giving the
watch an even higher degree of accuracy. In keeping
with Vacheron Constantin tradition, the tourbillon cage
is in the shape of a Maltese cross, the brand’s signature.
Vacheron Constantin updates tradition
with the sleek look of the Malte.
BY SCOTT HICKEY
timepieces, like Caliber 2795, to outside scrutiny in order
to earn the Geneva Seal (or Poinçon de Genève).
For more than a century, this prestigious certification has been given to watches — made exclusively in
Geneva — that meet vigorous watchmaking criteria. To
qualify, Vacheron Constantin submits its watches to the
Geneva Laboratory of Horology and Microengineering,
which in turn administers a series of tests designed to
determine if the watch meets standards for finishing,
construction and performance.
MORE THAN WORDS
The movement reflects the maison’s formidable technical expertise, and, at the same time, exhibits its commitment to exceptional traditional craftsmanship. Caliber
2795, which was designed specifically to fit the Malte’s
curves, is an exquisite example of high horology. It’s
what you would expect from a brand dedicated to maintaining the highest standards of watchmaking.
For Vacheron Constantin, actions speak louder than
words. So its watchmakers go a step further and independently verify the quality of their work by subjecting
The Malte Tourbillon’s clear caseback permits a close
inspection of Vacheron Constantin’s hand-finishing, including the côtes de Genève on the main plates.
91
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
ORCHESTRATING RESTRAINT
Vacheron Constantin knows what all great musicians know, which is that the
notes you play are just as important as those you don’t. This kind of
tasteful less-is-more aesthetic is emblematic of the Patrimony
collection and its dedication to timeless classicism.
Vacheron Constantin finds creative freedom within these
refined parameters, and offers two lines within the Patrimony Collection: the Traditionelle and the Contemporaine.
The differences between these round-cased siblings
are subtle but telling. The Traditionelle draws its inspiration from Vacheron Constantin’s rich history, including
the dauphine-shaped hands, railway-style minute circle
and smaller case diameter. The Contemporaine line features baton-shaped hands, gold-dot minute markers
and a larger dial to define its modern aesthetic.
Two distinctive models from the Patrimony collection
bring these concepts into sharp focus. First is the
Patrimony Traditionelle Small Seconds with a new
model in platinum introduced this year. Its design is
beautifully understated, from the slim case (7.9mm thick)
to the sophisticated simplicity of its slate-gray dial.
Similar to a pocket watch, the dial features a traditional railway (chemin de fer) minute circle. The minutes are indicated on a black track with white minute
markers. This pattern is repeated in the small seconds
display, which is decorated with circular graining that
echoes the watch’s circle-within-a-circle motif.
The minute markers on the
silvered opaline dial match
the rose gold case used for
the Patrimony Contemporaine
Date Self-Winding.
92
The Patrimony Traditionelle
Small Seconds is housed
inside a 38mm platinum case
that is less than 8mm thick.
The watch bears the prestigious
Geneva Seal.
The back of the Patrimony Traditionelle Small
Seconds has a sapphire crystal that allows the wearer
to view the exquisite decoration that adorns the
hand-wound movement. The watch is produced exclusively at the firm’s historic manufacture and bears the
Geneva Seal.
The Patrimony Contemporaine Date SelfWinding has also earned the Geneva Seal, but its
design follows a different path. Here, the focus
is sleek and refined, from the case and
hour markers to the silvered opaline dial. Its clean modern arrangement includes an aperture
at 6 o’clock where the date is displayed.
The view from the back is just as
magnificent. Look no further than the
gold winding rotor and its captivating
decorative pattern. When the watch is
worn, the owner’s natural wrist movements turn the rotor and wind the mainspring, which holds 40 hours of
power in reserve.
LADIES’ CHOICE
More than 200 years after making its first pocket watch for ladies, Vacheron
Constantin still enjoys a reputation among women who appreciate mechanical
movements as much as beautiful design.
Styles change, but the maison’s dedication to artistic crafts has remained
a constant source of pride since it was founded in 1755. During the 1800s,
it cultivated a department of decorative
artists who specialized in creating ornate
objets d’art, including gem-set pocket
watches, magnificent enamel dials, and
brooches made to conceal miniature
watches.
That high level of artistry remains
an essential element of Vacheron
Constantin’s identity today and
serves as the focal point of its
modern Métiers d’Art collection
— which includes haute joaillerie timepieces — as well as
the new ladies’ models it added to the Patrimony line earlier
this year.
Luxury meets delicate charm
in the Patrimony Traditionelle
Lady Manual-Winding. Its diamondset bezel joins seamlessly with the slim
case, which, at 7.65mm thick, rests lightly on the wrist.
Available in either rose or white gold,
the 33mm case surrounds a mechanical
movement, made exclusively in-house
by Vacheron Constantin, that boasts a 40hour power reserve as well as an engraving
that confirms the timepiece’s Geneva Seal
pedigree.
Middle left: The rose
To satisfy more modern tastes, the firm
gold Patrimony Contemoffers up the Patrimony Contemporaine Lady Autoporaine Lady Automatic
matic in rose gold with a matching bracelet. It shares
shines with diamonds on the
the same aesthetic DNA as the men’s Contemporaine
bezel and dial. Decorative guilloché
line, but remains decidedly feminine thanks to key
adorns the rotor that winds the
differences like the diamonds on the bezel and dial.
manufacture-made
movement.
Women who value mechanical watchmaking will
surely admire the Geneva Seal Certified watch’s selfRight top & bottom: More than 50 diamonds glitter on
winding movement. It features a date display on the
the rose gold bezel that surrounds the opaline dial found
silvered dial, while the clear crystal caseback proin the Patrimony Traditionelle Lady Manual-Winding.
vides a view of the winding rotor, which is dressed
Also available in white gold, both versions of this 33mm
impeccably in decorative guilloché.
model are Geneva Seal certified, and equipped with
With its superlative selection of mechanical timea hand-wound movement that’s made in-house by
pieces for both women and men, Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin.
proves that fine watchmaking is appreciated by all. ¨
93
ZENITH
Flying
HIGH
T
A
he tourbillon is one of the most challenging complications to create and perfect.
The gravity-defying mechanism stars in Zenith’s
Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Tourbillon,
where its whirling appearance recalls the dizzying acrobatics of
the first daredevil flyers.
The legacy of those aviators pervades the timepiece’s fearless asymmetrical design. Its 30-minute and 12-hour counters provide an aesthetic
balance to the dial’s geometry, seamlessly showing off its chronograph function. For the rest of the dial, Zenith weaves traditions of the past together with
modern innovation. Here, large, Arabic numerals made entirely of SuperLuminova hearken back to the watchmaker’s first on-board instruments, while a
patented date display around the tourbillon embodies the firm’s contemporary technical achievements.
The Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Tourbillon is powered by the
El Primero 4035 D chronograph, which is part of the horologer’s seminal El Primero line. When the original El Primero was introduced
in 1969, it was the very first integrated automatic chronograph. Its high-frequency balance (vibrating 10 times
a second) made it one of the world’s most accurate, a distinction the El Primero line
still holds today.
pioneer in
airborne horology
spreads its wings and launches
a new wave of pilot watches.
BY ELISE NUSSBAUM
94
PIONEERING SPIRIT
Combining traditional rose gold (bezel,
lugs, buttons and crown) with titanium (case
back and middle), the Tourbillon exemplifies the constant push and pull between respect for the historical
details and the restless drive forward that has animated the
aviation field since its beginning. The caseback bears an engraving
of an airplane flown by aviation pioneer Louis Blériot, the first man to
fly across the English Channel. Incidentally, Blériot wore a Zenith on
his wrist during that famous flight.
Just as a national registry for automobile license plates exists, so
does a similar system for civilian aircraft, a convention alluded to on
all of Zenith’s Pilot watches. As all civilian planes in Switzerland have
a registration number beginning with the letters “HB,” those same
letters appear on a plaque on each piece’s case middle, followed
by the series number of the watch. For the cognoscenti, this
serves as a subtle, but unmistakable reminder of the
historical context at work throughout the
Pilot collection.
The Pilot Montre d’Aéronef
Type 20 Tourbillon’s date
display wraps around the
tourbillon inside the 48mm
titanium and rose gold case.
95
ZENITH
FLYING THROUGH THE DAYS
The calendar is among the most useful and accessible of
horological complications. The Pilot Montre d’Aéronef
Type 20 Annual Calendar deftly places the function
within a framework that provides effortless legibility,
vintage styling and an additional complication to boot.
Driven by the high-precision El Primero 4054 B
movement, the Annual Calendar takes full advantage of
that legendary movement’s chronograph function, counting the minutes in the sub-dial at 6 o’clock. The remaining sub-dial features a small seconds display. The movement is housed in a 48mm case that comes in stainless
steel, or as a two-tone version in rose gold and titanium.
The model’s signature complication indicates the
date, day and month and requires an adjustment only
once a year, when February turns into March. In a stunning triumph of simplicity over needless complexity,
Zenith’s watchmakers constructed this complication
with just nine moving parts, not the 30 or more required
for most calendars.
The date function of the stainless steel Pilot Montre
d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar requires adjustment just once a year.
Aesthetically and practically, the Annual Calendar
exhibits the trademarks that set the Pilot collection
apart: a wide, easily handled crown, oversize, luminescent Arabic numerals against a black dial and a caseback engraved with the Zenith “Flying Instruments”
logo, to name but a few.
HOME AND AWAY
The red-tipped hand of the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type
20 GMT indicates the time in a second time zone using
the 24-hour scale marked along the minute track.
96
Including a GMT model in the Pilot collection is fitting
because most people who cross time zones do so in the air.
The Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT uses a
red-tipped hand to indicate the second time zone on a
24-hour scale to avoid any ambiguity between day and
night hours. Emphasizing convenience, the wearer can
easily adjust the second time zone with the help of a
button on the side of the case.
With a power reserve of 50 hours at its disposal, the
GMT displays hours and minutes using the customary
white, luminescent Arabic numerals. In fact, it is the same,
unmistakable font used on Zenith models during the early
20th century, including a timepiece owned by Blériot.
ACES HIGH
Most household names from the early 20th century
have ended up as mere footnotes barely a century later.
Not so with Alfred von Richthofen, better known to us
as the Red Baron. Credited with 80 air combat victories
in World War I, his prowess was such that even the pilots of the opposing Allied forces recognized his talents.
As a tribute to this titan of aviation, Zenith has created a special version of its GMT model called the Pilot
Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT Red Baron. Available
in a limited edition of 500 pieces, the Red Baron homage
is clad in black DLC-coated titanium, with red accents
throughout in honor of its namesake.
The GMT Red Baron’s caseback provides another
opportunity for the watchmaker to tip its wings to one
of aviation’s most enduring legends. This edition boasts
an engraving of the Fokker Triplane Dr.1, the scarlet
aircraft whose acrobatics earned von Richthofen his
indelible moniker.
The red accents on this limited edition Pilot Montre
d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT Red Baron pay tribute to the
timepiece’s namesake and provide a sharp contrast
with the matte-black dial.
ADVENTURE FOR ALL
The stainless steel Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 40mm
reflects vintage style with its small seconds display and
the côtes de Genève finishing on its oscillating weight.
A clean, classic approach guides the Pilot Montre
d’Aéronef Type 20 40mm, which has a more restrained
size that makes it perfect for both women and men. The
defining historical touches of the Pilot collection all
make their presence felt on this 40mm model in stainless steel. Hours, minutes and small seconds enjoy immediate recognition through the contrast between the
matte-black dial and the gleaming white luminescent
coating that graces the numerals and generously sized
hands.
This model’s unobtrusive proportions apply not
only to its diameter, but its thickness as well. While all
other members of Zenith’s Pilot collection are 15.8mm
thick, this model is just 11.8mm.
Using different materials, functions and dimensions, Zenith’s Pilot collection integrates historical inspiration with modern techniques for a fully rounded
line that honors the adventurous spirit. ¨
97
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1. ANNUAL CALENDAR
a glossary of horological terms
1a 1b
A calendar function that automatically
compensates for the irregular lengths
of months. It requires, however, an
annual adjustment every February,
hence the name.
2. AUTOMATIC (OR SELF-WINDING)
This complication replaces manual
winding in wristwatches by converting
the wearer’s everyday motions into
stored energy, which powers the mechanical movement. A winding box may
also be used to achieve the same results.
For both methods, the motion spins a rotor connected to the movement, which
generates energy by tightening the
mainspring. It’s also worth noting that
an automatic movement may also be
wound using the crown.
3. BALANCE
Similar to the pendulum in a pendulum
clock, this regulating mechanism ensures
a steady timekeeping rate in wristwatches. Comprised of a balance spring fixed
to a weighted balance wheel, the device
is connected to the mainspring. When the
mainspring releases energy, it swings the
balance wheel in one direction, called an
oscillation, which tightens the balance
spring. When the balance spring releases
this stored energy, it propels the balance
wheel back an equal distance in the opposite direction, transferring energy to
the drivetrain, which powers the watch
movement. The balance’s precise backand-forth motion divides time into equal
parts and is the source of the watch’s signature “tick-tock.”
98
2a 2b
3a 3b
1a. Saxonia Annual Calendar by A. Lange & Söhne
1b. Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar by Zenith
2a. Happy Sport Medium Automatic by Chopard
2b. Patrimony Contemporaine Lady Automatic by Vacheron Constantin
3a. Portuguese Automatic by IWC
3b. Double Balance Spring assembly by Audemars Piguet
4. BARREL
4. Double-barrel by Audemars Piguet
5. 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time by Girard-Perregaux
6. Caliber L101.1 by A. Lange & Söhne
7. RM 52-01 Skull Nano Ceramique by Richard Mille
8. Bulgari Octo by Bulgari
9. Ingenieur Chronograph Racer by IWC
4 5
This cylindrical receptacle is lined with
teeth around its circumference. It holds
the mainspring, which is attached at one
end to the barrel and at the other to the
arbor (axle) on which the barrel turns.
Winding the watch turns the barrel,
which increases the mainspring’s tension. After winding, the mainspring releases the energy that powers the watch
movement.
5. CADRATURE
The mechanism located directly behind
the dial that rotates the hands.
6. CALIBER (OR CALIBRE)
6 7
Originally referred to the measurement
of the watch movement, but modern usage indicates a type of movement i.e.
men’s caliber, automatic caliber. Watchmakers can use the caliber name and
number to indicate the company, shape
and origin.
7. CERAMIC
This material is used in watchmaking,
primarily for case production. Valued for
its qualities, ceramic is 30 percent lighter than steel, virtually scratchproof, impervious to rust and smooth to the touch.
8. CHAPTER RING
8 9
The numerals or indices on the edge of the
dial that indicate the hours and sometimes minutes.
9. CHRONOGRAPH
A watch with a manually operated stopwatch function that measures intervals
of time.
In addition to the basic chronograph,
there are two other popular versions:
-FLYBACK: allows instant re-set of the
timing function.
-SPLIT-SECOND: allows simultaneous
timing of two events that begin at the
same time but end at different times.
99
CLOCKWISE
10. CHRONOMETER
A timepiece that is precise enough to be
used as a time standard. Under Swiss regulations, only watches that have been
tested and certified by authorities such as
the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) can be called a chronometer.
10 11
11. CLOISONNÉ
An intricate process used to make enamel
dials. To create designs, thin gold wires
(1mm high) are bent by hand and attached
to the dial to form an outline. Various colors of enamel are applied and then baked
in an oven at around 1,500 F. To create
rich colors, several layers of enamel are
applied and baked.
12 13a
12. COLUMN WHEEL
Used in high-quality chronograph movements, this toothed wheel coordinates the
chronograph’s start, stop and reset functions. A traditional design, the column
wheel is more labor-intensive to produce
than other styles of chronographs.
13b 14
13. COMPLICATION
Any function in a manual-winding movement watch or clock additional to the
display of hours, minutes and seconds
including: automatic winding, date, calendar, moon phase, power reserve and
GMT, to name a few. The ultimate or
grand complications typically combine:
split-second chronograph, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and minute repeater.
14. CÔTES DE GENÈVE
100
10. L.U.C 1937 Classic by Chopard
11. Safari Minute Repeater by Ulysse Nardin
(OR GENEVA STRIPES)
12. Column wheel by Vacheron Constantin
Created by a rose engine lathe, this pattern of undulating waves is used frequently to decorate movements found in
fine timepieces.
13a. Tradition Grande Complication by Audemars Piguet
13b. Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Double Tourbillon by Cartier
14. Ovale Tourbillon by Parmigiani Fleurier
15 16a
15. DEPLOYANT BUCKLE
A tri-folding enclosure affixed to both
ends of a strap or bracelet. When fully
deployed, enough room is created to place
the watch on the wrist. When closed, a
buckle covers the folding mechanism that
secures the watch to the wrist.
16. DUAL TIME ZONE (OR GMT)
16b 16c
This complication allows a watch to display two or more time zones simultaneously. While watchmakers use many different ways to display the dual time zone
function, one of the most popular methods uses an additional hour hand. Timepieces with a dual time zone function
are sometimes called GMT watches. This
refers to Greenwich Mean Time, the
mean solar time for the meridian located at Greenwich, England. This time
is used as the basis for calculating time
throughout most of the world.
17. EQUATION OF TIME
17 18
A complication that calculates the difference between the mean solar day
which lasts 24 hours, and the true solar
day, whose length varies from the mean
solar day between +16.24 and -14.22
minutes throughout the year due to the
tilt of the Earth’s axis and the eccentricity of its orbit around the sun.
18. ESCAPEMENT
15. Cellini’s exclusive deployant buckles in 18-karat gold
16a. Executive Dual Time by Ulysse Nardin
16b. GMT by Greubel Forsey
The component of a mechanical watch
that is responsible for the advancement
of the wheel train rotation and the even
passage of time. The escapement in a
watch is usually controlled by the balance wheel.
16c. GMT by Greubel Forsey (back view)
17. 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time by Girard-Perregaux
18. Illustration of Lange 31 escapement by A. Lange & Söhne
101
CLOCKWISE
19. FLEURIER QUALITY
FOUNDATION (FQF)
An independent group based in the village of Fleurier, Switzerland dedicated
to evaluating watches made anywhere
in Switzerland. To be certified by the
FQF, a watch must pass rigorous tests
related to chronometry and durability,
and also exhibit superlative finishing.
19. Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF)
20. Geneva Seal logo
21a. Chapter Three Reveal by Maîtres du Temps
21b. Rendez-Vous by Jaeger-LeCoultre
22. Calibre 2260 by Vacheron Constantin
23. Berries Jumping Hours and Retrograde Minutes by Bulgari
19 20
20. GENEVA SEAL
Available exclusively to watch movements made in the City or Canton of
Geneva, this insignia certifies that a movement has satisfied a list of criteria related to both aesthetics and performance.
The Geneva School of Watchmaking
serves as the independent judge charged
with inspecting each watch and awarding this prestigious accolade to those
that meet the necessary requirements.
21. GUILLOCHÉ
21a 21b
An engraving technique that results
in very fine lines etched onto a flat, level
surface. Brands often express personality and creativity by decorating dials
and movements with beautifully intricate patterns of guilloché.
22. JEWELS
Precious stones (usually synthetic rubies)
used in a watch movement that act as
bearings for pivots and help reduce friction. Most movements contain at least a
dozen jewels but can feature more.
23. JUMPING HOUR
A watch that advances the time by
“jumping” to the next hour, usually
through a digital display window. Jumping hour watches use mechanical movements with numbers on wheels below
the dial that change as time advances.
The numbers appear to change instantaneously every hour.
102
22 23
24a 24b
24. MANUFACTURE
A term the Swiss watch industry uses to
distinguish a company that produces a
watch from start to finish, instead of
sending it to a finishing shop where the
parts are assembled and calibrated.
25. MICRO ROTOR
25 26
Invented in the 1950s, this smaller version of the traditional oscillating weight
is used to wind the mainspring in some
automatic watches. Its diminutive size
results in a thinner movement.
26. MINUTE REPEATER
27a 27b
A mechanical watch that indicates the
hours, quarter hours and minutes with
sound by striking a series of gongs
integrated into the watch movement. A
minute repeater strikes the time on demand when a button or slide on the case
is pushed. The co m pli c ati on fi r s t
emerged in watches in the 1700s and is
an heir to the repeating clock, which
was invented in the 17th century to tell
time in the dark prior to the use of electric lights. Today, minute repeaters remain one of the most complex watch
complications to produce.
27. MOON PHASE
24a. Chopard Manufacture, Fleurier, Switzerland
24b. Cartier Manufacture, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland
This complication calculates and displays the lunar cycle. Many moon phases advance once every 24 hours, which
requires that they be adjusted every two
and a half years. More complex models
do not require adjustments for hundreds
of years.
25. Pulsion Chronograph by Roger Dubuis
26. Stranger by Ulysse Nardin
27a. DB25L by De Bethune
27b. 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar by A. Lange & Söhne
103
CLOCKWISE
28. PAVÉ
Gems set as closely together as possible
in order to conceal a metal base.
29. PERLAGE
(French for “pearling”) A decorative pattern of overlapping swirls sometimes
applied to watch movements. It’s applied
by hand using a spinning drill fixed with
a wooden or rubber polishing bit.
28. Limelight Tonneau XL by Piaget
29. Grand Lange 1 “Lumen” by A. Lange & Söhne
30a. Master Ultra Thin Perpetual by Jaeger-LeCoultre
30b. Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph by Cartier
31. Ovale Pantographe by Parmigiani Fleurier
32. DB16 Tourbillon Regulator by De Bethune
28 29
30. PERPETUAL CALENDAR
A calendar function that calculates and
displays the date, day, month and leap
year without any adjustment by the user.
This remains true until the year 2100,
when there is no leap year due to the
Gregorian calendar. All watches record
time, the moments that make up a day,
but perpetual calendars keep track of all
of those days. Depending on the watch,
there are many different types of indicators that display the specific day, date
and month.
30a 30b
31. POWER RESERVE
This function measures and displays the
amount of power stored in the mainspring.
32. REGULATOR
A clock or wristwatch that displays the
hours, minutes and seconds separately.
Sometimes called a parent clock, manufacturers used to set their timepieces to
precise regulators because the separate
displays were easy to read, making for
exact adjustments.
104
31 32
33 34
33. RETROGRADE
A hand that travels across the dial in an
arc — usually from 90 to 180 degrees —
instead of a 360-degree revolution around
a centrally fixed point. When a retrograde
hand finishes its journey across the dial,
it returns instantaneously to begin a new
measurement. Retrograde hands can indicate date, day or month in perpetual
calendars, but can also be used for hours,
minutes or seconds.
34. ROTOR
35 36a
(OR OSCILLATING WEIGHT)
Found in a watch with automatic winding, this semicircular weight — powered
by the owner’s physical movements —
rotates to tighten the mainspring, which
stores reserve energy.
35. SILICON (OR SILICIUM)
36b 37
An element used in watchmaking to create everything from escapement wheels
to balance springs. Prized for its properties, silicon is lightweight, anti-magnetic, resists corrosion and does not require lubrication.
36. SKELETON
A watch movement that is transparent or
cut out in a decorative manner in order to
reveal all of the movement’s parts. Traditional watch dials display the current
functions of time, date or day for a specific
moment in time. A skeletal dial further
reveals the watch’s movement and how its
mechanism calculates on-going time.
37. TACHYMETER
33. Half Time by Ludovic Ballouard
34. Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième
Perpétuel Jubilee by Jaeger-LeCoultre
35. Caliber UN 106 with silicium hairspring by Ulysse Nardin
36a. RM 59-01 Yohan Blake by Richard Mille
36b. Skeleton Tourbillon Manufacture by Ulysse Nardin
37. Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph by Audemars Piguet
A scale that often accompanies a chronograph or timer that measures speed.
A tachymeter usually indicates speed in
kilometers per hour.
105
CLOCKWISE
38. TOURBILLON
Sometimes referred to as a ‘whirlwind,’
the tourbillon counteracts the effects of
gravity on the balance and escapement
thus aiding better accuracy. This is
achieved by housing the balance, balance
spring and escapement in a rotating carriage (cage). Invented for the pocket
watch by Abraham-Louis Breguet in
1801, the tourbillon remains a popular
complication.
EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW: TOURBILLON
MASTER STEPHEN FORSEY
G
reubel Forsey’s Double Tourbillon
Technique earned the distinction
of being the most accurate mechanical wristwatch two years ago, when
it won the prestigious International
Chronometry Competition.
Over the course of the 45-day test,
the watch’s performance was recorded in
different positions and temperatures, as
well as after being subjected to shocks
and magnetic fields. The Double Tourbillon Technique scored 915 points out of a
possible 1,000 – 60 points ahead of its
closest competitor. The win validated the
vision shared by Stephen Forsey and
Robert Greubel, who launched the company in 2003 with the intent of revolutionizing the tourbillon wristwatch.
Status recently spoke with Forsey
during a visit to Cellini Jewelers about
the initial inspiration behind their
groundbreaking invention and what
motivates them now.
Status: How did it begin?
Stephen Forsey: When Robert Greubel
and I worked together at Renaud & Papi
in the early 1990s, some people questioned the performance of the tourbillon
and wondered if it was just a gadget.
We both felt that there was perhaps a
new way to look at the tourbillon, so in
1999 we decided to explore that idea
together. After critically analyzing the
nearly 200-year history of the tourbillon,
we discovered that only a few watchmakers
106
38a 38b
38c 38d
like Walter Prendel and Anthony Randall had tried different approaches
to the tourbillon.
That research led us to a bit of a eureka moment where we asked:
What if we incline one cage inside a second? That was the seed being
planted for what would become the Double Tourbillon 30° mechanism.
SM: And now that it’s recognized as the most accurate, how do you
build on that?
SF: The jury is out on how far we can go, but there’s no reason to
stop pushing forward. It’s interesting, Robert and I went to different
watchmaking schools, but our instructors told us the same things:
‘I don’t know why you’re here. Everything’s been invented already.’
And yet, all these years later, we’ve managed to break through that
imaginary barrier and take the art of watchmaking to a higher level.
There’s no reason to stop now.
38a. Double Tourbillon Technique by Greubel Forsey
38b. Double Tourbillon 30° mechanism by Greubel Forsey
38c. Greubel Forsey co-founder Stephen Forsey
38d. Double Tourbillon Vision by Greubel Forsey
39 40
39. TRAIN (OR GOING TRAIN)
A system of toothed wheels and pinions
used to convey energy stored in the mainspring to the escapement.
40. VIBRATIONS
41a 41b
A measurement that indicates the frequency of semi-oscillations (half turns)
made by the balance wheel; usually
measured in vibrations per hour (vph).
Most high-frequency (or high-beat) mechanical movements vibrate between six
and 10 times a second, or 21,600 vph
and 36,000 vph respectively. (In comparison, a typical quartz movement vibrates
about 235 million times an hour.) While
there are many factors that influence a
watch’s timekeeping accuracy, generally
speaking, the more often a movement vibrates, the more accurate it will be.
41. WATER RESISTANT
42a 42b
A watch designed to prevent water from
entering the case. An atmosphere (atm)
is the measurement used to gauge how
water resistant a watch is. Watches rated 3 atm resist infiltration by water to a
conventional depth of 30 meters; rated 5
atm resists to a conventional depth of 50
meters.
42. WORLD TIME
Refers to a watch that indicates the local
time in major cities around the world,
usually representing each of the 24 time
zones. The names of the cities are typically displayed on an outer ring on the
dial or on the bezel of the watch. ¨
39. Illustration of Caliber 380 by Jaeger-LeCoultre
40. Caliber 4101OR by Audemars Piguet
41a. Overseas Chronograph by Vacheron Constantin
41b. Marine Chronometer Manufacture by Ulysse Nardin
42a. Tortue Multiple Time Zone by Cartier
42b. Pilot Doublematic by Zenith
107
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