Selkirks South

Transcription

Selkirks South

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Climbers Guidebooks from High Col Press
Purchase online at www.highcol.ca
This full-colour guide brings together into a single
collection 1300 of the great rockclimbs of Western
Canada, from Squamish to Lake Louise to the Ghost
River Valley, world-famous crags, popular classics,
alpine crags, and little known jewels in one of the
most beautiful regions of the world. Over 70 climbing areas are described, with over 800 topos and
photos covering sport, trad, long climbs and crags.
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Selkirks South
The Climbers Guide
Free Preview Edition
The Selkirks are one of North America’s great mountain
ranges and Selkirks South is the award-winning alpine
guide from David P. Jones to its great peaks, more than
500 alpine climbs, and the mountain environment of the
vast southern region of the range. The Trans Canada
Highway is the demarcation boundary between Selkirks
South and its companion volume Selkirks North.
Selkirks South won first prize in the 2001 competition
for Best Book about Mountain Exposition at the Banff
Mountain Book Festival.
This free
what the
detailing,
included,
topos are
384 page
60 page PDF Preview Edition is a sampler of
full book contains, showing the careful page
with much of the extensive 72 page prologue
and galleries presenting how the climbs and
detailed. If you would like to purchase the full
guidebook, please visit us at www.highcol.ca.
This Preview Edition of Selkirks South is distributed free
of charge by High Col Press. Copyright to the book
and all uncredited photos is held by the author, David
P. Jones, and other photos are copyrighted as identified.
Selkirks South is published by Elaho Press, an imprint of
High Col Press.
§
This Preview Edition PDF file is set up as 2-page
spreads and prints neatly onto letter-size paper.
Selkirks South FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca
On the East Face of Sir Donald
Climber: Hamish Mutch
Photo: Bruce Fairley
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5
North
Mica
Dam
fie
Ice
rk
Pa
Lake Louise
1
Banff
National
Park
1
Golden
Rogers
Pass
Banff
Kootenay
National
Park
Spillimacheen
River
Revelstoke
National
Park
Revelstoke
Dam
Scale is approximate only
Batchelor
Creek
Glacier
National
Park
23
y
Selkirks
North
40 kilometres
wa
Gold
River
Downie
Creek
Lake
Revelstoke
a
er t
Alb sh ia
iti b
Br lum
Co
Goldstream
River
lds
Fo Co
res lum
tS b
erv ia W
ice es
Ro t
ad
95
Illecillewaet
River
Selkirks
Revelstoke
South
93
David P. Jones
bia
lum r
Co Rive
Bugaboo
Provincial
Park
Beaton
Trout Lake
Galena
Bay
Shelter
Bay
Mount
Assiniboine
Provincial
Park
Spillimacheen
Incomappleux
River
23
Selkirks
South
Radium
Invermere
31
Duncan
River
Monashee
Prov. Park
Nakusp
Upper
Arrow
Lake
Purcell
Wilderness
Kaslo
Valhalla
Prov. Park
Lower
Arrow
Lake
Kokanee
Glacier
Prov. Park
Kimberley
Kootenay
Lake
Squamish, B.C.
Nelson
© David P. Jones 2010
Elaho Publishing Corporation
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Selkirks South
ISBN
0-9682472-4-5
Elaho Publishing Corporation, Squamish BC.
Printed in Canada by Kromar Printing Ltd, Manitoba.
Uncredited photos © David P. Jones
All other photographs © as credited.
Geology of the Selkirk Mountains © Dr. J.O.Wheeler
§
Front cover photo: Moby Dick from Battle Abbey
Back cover photos: Sir Donald from the northwest
Topo development: David P. Jones, Barry McLane, Kevin McLane
Design and production: Kevin McLane.
Canadian Cataloguing in Publication Data
Dedicated with deep affection to William. L. Putnam, mentor
and friend, who has so generously shared with so many, his
love and laughter and life in the mountains.
Jones, David P.
Selkirks South
Includes index.
§
ISBN 0-9682472-4-5
1. Mountaineering- -Selkirk Range- -Guidebooks.
2. Selkirk Range- -Guidebooks.
GV199.44.C22S44 2001
I. Title.
796.52’2’0971168
C2001-901294-2
All rights reserved
Other than brief quotations in reviews, no part of this book may be
reproduced in any form, or by electronic, mechanical, or any other
means without written permission from the publisher.
Disclaimer
Mountaineering is a hazardous activity carrying a significant risk of
personal injury or death, and should only be undertaken with a full
understanding of all inherent risks. This publication is only a guide to
the climbs, a composite of opinion from many sources, some of which
may not be accurate, and the information contained may not reflect
the circumstances of a particular climb on a given day.
Use of this guide must always be conducted with the required
experience, tuition, and careful judgement necessary for safety.
Elaho™ is a trademark of Elaho Publishing Corporation
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
ver the years I have been very fortunate in sharing a rope in
the Selkirks with many fine climbers. These climbers have
suffered my impatience, tolerated my obsession with bushwhacking
and shared my insatiable desire for adventure on first ascents and
new routes.
I am very grateful for the interest and support of Dr. John Wheeler
who graciously wrote the geology section of the guidebook.
O
Bruce Haggerstone was an amazingly strong, steady and capable
climbing partner in the very early years. When we lived in Revelstoke
it was a rare weekend that we were not exploring, bushwhacking
and climbing somewhere in the Selkirks. I owe much to him for his
friendship and enthusiasm in our youth.
Later I was fortunate to enjoy the fine companionship of Andy
Kauffman, John Markel, Graham Matthews, David Michael, Bill
Putnam, Andy Tuthill, Rob Wallace and David Whitburn. In more
recent years I have enjoyed climbing adventures and trips with
Guy Edwards, Bruce Fairley, Greg Foweraker, Diny Harrison, Clair
Israelson, Torben Johannsen, Roy Jones, Roger Laurilla, Peter Mair,
Tim McAllister, Hamish Mutch, Peter Oxtoby, Graham Rowbotham,
Don Serl, Tim Styles and Warren Wright. In joining me in many fine
ascents, they have materially assisted in the creation of this guidebook.
I am also grateful for the expertise and support provided by Kevin
McLane, Elaho Publishing.
This guidebook is unlikely to have seen the light of day but for
the continued encouragement, research and editing provided by my
loving wife and climbing partner, Joie Seagram – she has given up
many a ski weekend to edit this guide.
The many people listed above have contributed to making this
guide as current and accurate as it is. The author took all photographs
unless otherwise credited. Any errors or omissions are solely the
responsibility of the author, who may have spent too many late nights
pouring over articles, maps and photographs.
§
Many climbers shared information or assisted with research. I
wish to thank Paul Allen, Ken Baker, Jim Bay, Aaron Beardmore,
Fred Beckey, Ruedi Beglinger, Jeff Bellis, Glen Boles, Jim Bourgeois,
John Bousman, David Brkich, Rene Bucher, Joe Buszowski, Nick
Clinch, Martin Condor, David Coombs, Rick Cox, Scott Davis, Carl
Diedrich, Craig Ellis, Linwood Erskine, Fred Feuz, Dean Flick, Jim
Gudjonson, Brad Harrison, Sylvain Hebert, Steve Herrero, Doug
Hogg, Steven Horvath, Kerry Jager, Ken Jern, Bob Kruszyna, Art
Maki, Jason Maitland, Jim McCarthy, Helmut Microys, David Myles,
Sue & Bert Port, Jim Ruch, Bernie Schiesser, Kirt Sellers, Leo Slaggie,
Brandon Thomas, Norman Thyer, Kevin Wiley, Jed Williamson, Jon
Wilsguard, Gary Wolkoff, John Woods, and Colin Zacharias, for their
generous assistance in responding to my letters, emails and late-night
phone calls.
I wish to give special thanks to Eric Dafoe, Kim Kratky and Fred
Thiessen for their exceptional assistance in tracking down obscure
records and contacts. I am also grateful for the assistance of the
British Columbia Forest Service for providing access to copies of BC
TRIM maps. The American Alpine Club kindly granted permission
to quote from earlier guidebooks published by the club.
Don McTighe merits special thanks for his exceptional helicopter
service throughout the Selkirks.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
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Selkirk Regional Map ...........................................1
Acknowledgements ..............................................6
Selkirks Areas Map ..............................................8
Introduction ........................................................10
Travelling on Foot ..............................................12
Travelling on Roads ...........................................13
Useful Contacts ..................................................14
Flying into the Range ........................................15
Mapping and Navigation ...................................16
Communications In The Range .........................20
Climate and Weather .........................................21
Equipment and Hazards .....................................22
The Alpine Grading System ................................23
The Most Difficult Climbs ....................................28
Water and Hygiene / Using The Guide ...............29
Environmental Ethics .........................................30
Flora and Fauna .................................................31
Huts and Shelters ..............................................35
Golden, Revelstoke and Rogers Pass ...............38
Food And Camping In Revelstoke ....................39
Outdoor Activities Around Revelstoke ...............40
Food And Camping In Golden ..........................41
Outdoor Activities Around Golden .....................42
Rock Climbing ....................................................43
Geology of the Selkirk Mountains .....................44
History of Exploration and Climbing .................55
Regional Traverses .............................................66
Government Land Managers .............................69
Literature and Information Sources ...................71
Periodicals ..........................................................72
About the Author ................................................72
Rogers Pass Area ...................................... 73
Sir Donald Group .........................................75
Asulkan Group ............................................117
Bonney Group .............................................135
Albert Group ...............................................151
The Deville Ranges ....................................174
Dawson Group ............................................180
Bishops Group ............................................208
Purity Group ................................................224
Sugarloaf Group .........................................237
Van Horne Group ........................................251
Battle Range ...............................................260
Melville Group ............................................265
Westfall Group ............................................317
Nemo Group ...............................................339
Badshot Group ...........................................359
Reporting New Routes .....................................380
Index .................................................................381
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INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
his guide began as a personal research project to discover
opportunities for ascents of unclimbed peaks and new routes.
It has gradually evolved, through the persistent encouragement of
Bill Putnam, into a complete guidebook. Along the way I obtained
information on over 300 new routes in both the Northern and
Southern Selkirks, which have not been published in any guidebook
nor frequently in journals. Many of these routes are more technical
in nature and probably of greater interest to modern climbers.
In order to determine preferences for guidebook style, a simple
needs assessment was done by way of an informal survey of over
50 climbers. An overwhelming number of respondents expressed
preference for a comprehensive guidebook rather than a select
guide. This information provided the impetus to create an improved,
comprehensive guidebook, which could serve as a reference for
subsequent exploration and new climbs in the range.
The author began his climbing career in the Selkirks 35 years
ago. Each mountain range offers its own charm and unique set of
challenges for climbers of all capabilities. The Selkirks boasts their
own special qualities – spectacular alpine meadows, dramatic vistas,
areas of superb rock, and opportunities for multiple-day, high-level
alpine traverses in wilderness settings. In writing this guide, the author
takes joy in sharing the beauty, charm and challenges of the many
climbing opportunities available in the Selkirk Range.
Intended audience This guide, and its future companion
volume for the northern Selkirks, is intended for use by three different
groups: the general mountaineer seeking rich mountain adventure,
the rock climber in quest of ‘challenging’ routes, and the mountain
explorer searching for new and seldom travelled country.
Hopefully, the comprehensive nature of the guide addresses the
interests of the general mountaineer seeking to climb a variety of routes
within an area. Further, each section provides a list of recom-mended
climbs, which while not exhaustive, does direct the rock climber to
a small number of selected climbs. Lastly, the inclusion of all peaks
that meet an elevation threshold (whether climbed or not), combined
with many photographs, should assist the mountain explorer seeking
untrodden country in the Selkirk Range.
Information Sources. By necessity, the author of any guidebook
relies heavily on previously published guidebooks. Putnam’s 1971
guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia and the 1992 guidebook
by Fox et al. The Columbia Mountains of Canada, have been particularly
useful references. The author has also relied heavily on articles
published in mountaineering journals and newsletters, as well as
on unpublished records such as climbing hut registers and archival
information. Where appropriate, unpublished information has been
supplemented by personal communications with individuals. On
occasion, summit records have been found to differ in detail from
information provided in previous guidebook editions and published
accounts. In these situations, summit records have been assumed to
be the more accurate source of information.
Despite considerable effort to maintain a high degree of accuracy,
there are numerous factors beyond the control of any guidebook
author. Every effort has been made to validate details of access and
route descriptions, wherever possible. However, information in written
or verbal accounts may be inadequate to determine the precise location
of a route, particularly for example on a face. In some instances,
climbers have since died or failed to keep accurate records of their
ascents, making it impossible to clarify details. Further, it is impossible
for the author to climb every route. Indeed, there is a high probability
that approximately one-third of the routes in this guidebook have
not seen a repeat ascent. Also creation and abandonment of logging
and mining roads can affect access, while rockfall and general glacial
recession can significantly modify climbing routes.
Area covered / Definition of Selkirks The Selkirk Mountains
of southeast British Columbia lie to the west of the Rocky Mountains
in an area approximately 350km long and up to 80km wide. These
mountains lie within the Big Bend of the Columbia River, and are
flanked on the west by the Monashee Mountains and on the east by
the Purcell Mountains and the Rocky Mountain Trench. The boundary
with the Monashees is along the valley occupied by the Columbia
River and the Arrow Lakes. The boundary with the Purcell Mountains
and its sub-range the Dogtooth’s, is demarcated by the Rocky Mountain
Trench (occupied by the Columbia River) and the through valley that
extends southward from the trench, and occupied by the Beaver and
Duncan rivers, Duncan Lake and Kootenay River.
This guide, and its future companion volume for the northern
Selkirks, covers that portion of the Selkirk Mountains within the Big
Bend of the Columbia River and extending south to the intersection
of the Lardeau and Duncan rivers. The Selkirk Mountains south of
the Lardeau and Duncan rivers are geographically separate from the
mountains to the north, as are the transportation corridors providing
access to these southern peaks.
The Selkirk Mountains of interest have been further subdivided
into two major groups, the northern and southern Selkirks, with each
group being described in a separate volume. The major transportation
corridor connecting the towns of Revelstoke on the west and Golden
on the east provides a natural boundary between the northern and
southern Selkirks as shown on page 1.
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TRAVELLING ON FOOT
I
n the early years of exploration in the Selkirks, prospector trails
and mining roads provided a means of accessing areas remote to
the railway. A network of logging roads, usually confined to major
valleys has replaced many of those early roads and trails. Trails that
remain are largely restricted to Glacier National Park. Leaving logging
roads and trails, the mountain traveller will frequently be required to
negotiate the infamous Selkirks bush.
Selecting the best route through the bush is what wilderness travel
in the Selkirks is all about. The crest of a “hogsback” ridge usually
offers the best line of ascent because of its good drainage and thus
less bush and undergrowth (carry water for those hot days)! Areas
of mature timber often provide reasonable travel conditions, although
devils club can be very thick in damp areas. Avalanche fans and slide
paths should be avoided as should areas showing recent evidence of
forest fire and logging activity.
Learning to read the terrain is to put yourself in the position of
an animal travelling in the bush with minimum effort. If you are
successful at this exercise, you will frequently find game trails that
greatly facilitate travel – whether these game trails lead you to your
desired destination is another matter. If you use game trails in the
Selkirks, it may be advisable to carry bear (capsicun) spray (make sure
the spray can is less than 2 years old)!
Map contour intervals where the 100 ft contour lines are closer
than 2mm usually denote slopes too steep for easy travel. Beware –
these steep sections may require semi-technical 5th class bush techniques!
When travelling in heavy timber or dense bush, take frequent
note of landmarks – distant peaks, erosion scars, avalanche paths,
glaciers and their moraines etc. Also, look back frequently and take
note of elevation, and times and distances travelled as you proceed.
Terrain can look very different when approached from the opposite
direction. Be prepared – travel in the Selkirk backcountry is wilderness
travel - there is no substitute for experience, a map and ability to use
a compass.
River valleys and creek bottoms generally provide poor conditions
for wilderness travel over any great distance. Stream crossings may
require log walking. Wet logs and trees with loose bark may be
particularly hazardous. Crampons may be helpful or string a rope
as a handline. In summer many tributary streams, particularly those
arising from melting snow and glaciers, will exhibit a strong diurnal
variation in water level. These streams are usually more easily crossed
early in the morning.
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TRAVELLING ON ROADS
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T
here are fewer logging roads in the Southern Selkirks of interest
to the climber compared with those in the Northern Selkirks.
Logging roads are seldom gated. Contact the local Forest Service
office in Golden or Revelstoke for specific information on the latest
conditions. Travelling on forest logging roads is quite different from
travelling on public highways.

Make sure your vehicle is in good repair with adequate fuel
and supplies before leaving the public highway. It could be a long,
expensive tow to get back to service facilities.

Drive with your headlights on – especially under dusty conditions
– to make yourself more visible.

Watch for fallen rock, downed trees, washouts, blind corners and
animals on the road.

A shovel and a saw or axe are useful tools to have with you when
travelling back roads.

Give logging and industrial traffic the right of way by moving to
the nearest turnout or pulling off the road as far as possible.

Many forestry vehicles maintain radio contact with each other –
follow a logging truck at a safe distance to help others know where
you are.

Stay with your vehicle if you encounter dangerous wildlife,
particularly those with young.

Cross-ditches (waterbars across the road) can often be negotiated
more easily by crossing the ditch at an angle to the main road.

Park well off the travelled portion of the road if you stop along
the way.

If you are going to leave your vehicle parked on logging roads
for extended periods, make sure the vehicle is well off to the side of
the road, and leave a prominent note as to your whereabouts and
expected time of return.

In many locations, it is advisable to consider wrapping chicken
wire around the vehicle to prevent porcupines from chewing your tires
or engine wiring, in your absence. Leave a few blocks of plywood to
occupy porky!

The Trans Canada Highway connects Revelstoke – Golden.
Where distances are given from Revelstoke or Golden the reference
point is the four-way stop or junction with the Trans Canada Highway
at each city. Remember, once you have left the main transportation
corridor between Revelstoke and Golden, services are few and far
between.
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ROAD ACCESS INTO THE RANGE

Highway 23 north of Revelstoke (Mica Access Highway) – the
only source of gas is at Downie Creek Auto Court at km 74.

Highway 23 south of Revelstoke - gas and minor supplies can be
obtained at Trout Lake – 82km.

Columbia West Forest Service Road – last ‘services’ at Big Fish
Lake Resort 5km from the Trans Canada Highway.
The traveller must take a ferry when travelling between Revelstoke
and either Trout Lake or Nakusp on Highway 23 South. It is
approximately three-quarters of an hour drive (48km) from Revelstoke
to Shelter Bay, the northern terminus of the ferry run. The ferry, which
is free, leaves Shelter Bay for Galena Bay on the hour from 5am to 12
midnight. The ferry leaves Galena Bay on the half-hour from 5:30am
to 12:30am. The ferry may not be available to the travelling public
at selected times when she is transporting dangerous cargo.
USEFUL CONTACTS
Environment Canada
Emerg: Police, Fire Ambulance
Reporting Forest Fires
Rogers Pass Information Centre
Parks Canada
- Revelstoke Park Warden
- Glacier Park Wardens
Radio Broadcast
www.weatheroffice.com
www.weather.ec.gc.ca/bc_e.shtml
911
1-800-663-5555
250-814-5232 .......revglacier_reception@pch.gc.ca
250-837-7500
250-814-5200
250-814-5202
1580AM
Golden
Weather
BC Forest Service, Golden
RCMP Golden
Ambulance Golden
Hospital: Golden and District,
Golden Chamber of Commerce
Map of Golden
250-344-5665
250-344-7500 .......600 North 9th Street
250-344-2221
250-344-6226
250-344-5271 .......835 S. 9th Avenue
1-800-622-GOLD. goldcham@rockies.net
www.rockies.net/columbia-valley/town_map.htm
Revelstoke
Weather
Information Centre
250-837-4164 / 9244
Frontier Motel and Restaurant, corner of Trans
Canada Highway and Highway 23 North
BC Forest Service
250-837-7611 .......1761 Big Eddy Road.
General Information
250-837-7500
Ambulance
250-837-5885
RCMP
250-837-5255
Hospital
250-837-2131 .......6622 Newlands Road
Chamber of Commerce / Tourist InfoCentre,
250-837-5345. 300 1st Street West
Highway 23 Galena Bay – Shelter Bay Ferry 250-837-4375
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FLYING INTO THE RANGE
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From Golden
Alpine Helicopters Ltd.
Don and his partner David Morgan provide exceptional helicopter service to
climbers, as well as mountain rescue service in conjunction with National Park
mountain rescue teams. Don has over 11,000 hours in more than 19 years of
helicopter flying in the Selkirks. Alpine provides service with Bell 206 and 407
machines. The 407 is a fast, efficient machine that can carry five people and a lot
of gear. Contact Don McTighe, 250 Fisher Drive, P.O. Box 4088, Golden, B. C.
V0A 1H0. Phone 250-344-7444; fax 250-344-7465; email dsmctighe@redshift.bc.ca
Alpenglow Aviation Inc.
Alpenglow operates a fleet of Cessna 185 and 206 planes and a de Havilland aircraft,
and provides service on wheels, floats and skis. Alpenglow has made ski landings on
the Sir Sandford, Adamant, Silvertip and Haworth glaciers in the Northern Selkirks,
however this mode of access should not be relied upon late in the climbing season.
The only possible floatplane landing for climbing purposes is in the Southern Selkirks
on Butters Lake in the Melville Group. Alpenglow is very accommodating to the
needs of climbers, as well as sport fishers and sightseers. Contact Ann and Steve
Neill, P.O. Box 4031, 210 Fisher Road, Golden, B.C. V0A 1H0. Phone 1-888-2447117; Fax 250-344-5115; email; info@rockiesairtours.com
Canadian Helicopters Ltd.
P.O. Box 482, Golden, B.C. V0A 1H0. Phone 250-344-5311; Fax 250-344-5387.
Canadian operates a Bell 206 and an A-Star helicopter from its base at Golden
Airport.
From Revelstoke
Selkirk Mountain Helicopter Ltd.
The base for Selkirk Mountain is at 530 Westside Road, a small side road off of the
Trans Canada Highway immediately west of the bridge over the Columbia River.
Drive north along the road on the west side of the Columbia River for 5.0km
heading towards the Revelstoke Dam. The base is on the right side of the road.
The company has several pilots, all of whom are very experienced. Gerry has been
flying for 21 years, of which 13 have been in the Selkirks. The company has three
aircraft available, one Bell JetRanger and two Bell LongRangers. The JetRanger
carries four passengers while the LongRanger seats six. For specific details on
availability and charter rates, contact Gerry Richard at P.O. Box 2968 Revelstoke,
B.C. V0E 2S0. Phone 250-837-2455, fax 837-4066, email selkheli@junction.net.
Canadian Helicopters Ltd.
This company has facilities at Revelstoke Airport, about 8km south of Revelstoke.
There is one Jetranger 206B on base with larger machines available as required.
Contact Matthew Callaghan by phone at (250) 837-6227, or by email; mcallaghan@
west.chc.ca
Silvertip Aviation Ltd.
Contact David Mair, 2931 Airport Way, #5, Revelstoke, B.C., V0E 2S0. Phone
250-837-4414; fax 250- 837-6793. Silvertip Aviation is headquartered in Revelstoke
with satellite operations in Nakusp and McBride. The company has three fixed
wing aircraft with a Cessna 185 that can be put on floats.
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MAPPING AND NAVIGATION
MAPPING AND NAVIGATION
his guidebook contains schematic maps of each group to facilitate
general orientation, as well as to reference features of interest to
climbers, which do not appear on official maps. These maps are no
substitute for regular topographic maps published by the government.
Map Coordinates and GPS... Maps are drawn so that every
point is a known distance and height from a standard reference point
called a datum. Before the advent of Global Positioning System (GPS),
each country independently chose their own datum. This resulted in
the same location having different coordinates on different countries’
maps.
T
For the climber, the most convenient source of 1:50,000 scale
topographic maps for the peaks covered by this guide and its
companion volume on the Northern Selkirks, is the CD (for PCs) titled
Interior Ranges of British Columbia, produced by Navitrak International
Corp. Navitrak can be contacted at 603 Argus Road, Suite 201,
Oakville, Ontario, L6J 6G6. Phone 905-842-1553; fax 905-842-4928.
This CD also includes topographic maps for the adjacent Monashee
and Purcell (Bugaboos) Ranges.
Regular 1:250,000 and 1:50,000 scale topographic map sheets can
be obtained from the Geological Survey of Canada Offices during
normal business hours. The Vancouver office is located at 101 – 605
Robson Street, Phone 604-666-0271. The Calgary office is located at
3303 – 33rd Street, NW, Phone 403-292-7000.
Copies of selected map sheets may be purchased from the Government
Agent in Revelstoke (Phone 837-7636) or Selkirk Sports in Golden
(Phone 344-2966). It is not wise to rely solely on either of these sources
as they carry only a limited number of maps. British Columbia Forest
Service offices in both Golden and Revelstoke will provide a useful
1:250,000-scale recreation map of the Columbia Forest District. This
map provides an excellent overview of the entire area covered by
the Southern and Northern Selkirks’ guidebooks but is not useful for
general navigation in the mountains.
Very helpful, tear resistant, waterproof 1:50,000 scale metric
topographic maps of Revelstoke and Glacier National Parks can be
obtained from the Visitors Information Center in the Rogers Pass.
Another useful resource is the Backroad Mapbook, Volume IV: The
Kootenays. This publication is an outdoor recreation guide providing
information on a variety of trails throughout the region as well as a
complete compendium of maps showing all of the major roads, main
logging roads and many minor branch and spur logging roads. Very
useful for the climber interested in exploring logging roads with a
view to facilitating access and exploration of the adjacent mountains.
This mapbook is updated periodically and is usually available at most
outdoor stores. For information on the latest version, contact Mussio
Ventures Ltd., 232 Anthony Court, New Westminster, B.C. V3L 5T5.
Phone 604-377-6485; fax 604-430-5585.
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There are a number of grid systems that can be overlain on a
map to provide a unique coordinate reference point. This guidebook
uses the Universal Transverse Mercator Grid (UTM) system. This is a
grid system that splits the earth into 60 zones that are 6 degrees wide.
The coordinates are relative to the equator and a zone meridian and
are called northings and eastings. The UTM grid is based on meters
and the grid lines are always 1km (0.62 miles) apart.
Many Canadian and United States maps are based on the North
American Datum 1927 (NAD 27). Newer maps are being drawn using
the North American Datum 1983 (NAD 83), however the NAD 27
datum is used in this guidebook since at the time of writing, there is
incomplete map coverage based on NAD 83 datum. As a result, the
Universal Transverse Mercator (UTM) map coordinates will differ
depending on the datum reference. Thus if you obtain different UTM
coordinates for a point referenced in this guidebook, first check your
map datum and make adjustments. The approximate values to convert
NAD 83 to NAD 27 for the guidebook area are:
for Easting add
77m; for Northing subtract 214m.
It is worth noting that most topographic maps in the guidebook
area have a horizontal accuracy of between 50 and 100m while errors
in elevation may exceed 20m.
Compass directions... Compass directions cited in various print
sources are frequently in error by as much as 450. Since the local
declination is approximately 200 east of north, such errors may occur
due to incorrect setting of the compass declination.
Directions of left and right assume that the climber is facing the
rock in the case of a climb, or looking upstream in the case of hiking
a valley or watercourse.
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20
A SHORT HISTORY OF MAPPING
21
In 1888, the Reverend William Spotswood Green initiated the first
mapping of the Selkirks in the immediate vicinity of the Rogers Pass,
using a plane table to prepare a map and employing barometric and
trigonometric methods to determine elevations. Subsequently Emil
Huber, Harold Topham and William S. Drewry conducted additional
mapping and elevation measurements in 1890.
In 1901 and again in 1902, A.O. Wheeler, a topographer employed
by the Department of the Interior, undertook a photogrammetric and
trigonometric survey of the Selkirks, adjacent to the Canadian Pacific
Railway. In 1905, the results of this survey, including many peak
elevations, were published as The Selkirk Range, British Columbia.
Subsequently an error of 10 feet was discovered in the base line data
used by Wheeler. In a map of Glacier National Park published in
1934 the elevation of all peaks determined by Wheeler was increased
by 10 feet, with the exceptions of Mount Bonney being increased by
6 feet and Mount Clarke being decreased by 7 feet.
This guide makes reference to, and was derived from the 1:50,000
scale National Topographic Series (NTS) maps produced by the
Federal Government. For the most part, these maps were derived
from a mapping datum created in 1927 (NAD 27) and based on air
photographs generally taken in the 1970s. These maps are in imperial
units with contour intervals of 100 feet. With the recent adoption of
the new datum (NAD 83), the Federal Government is gradually reissuing the maps. These new maps will be metric with 40m contour
intervals. At the time of publication only one map in the southern
Selkirks has been published based on NAD 83.
The Government of British Columbia recognized that the NTS
1:50,000 scale maps were inadequate for its own needs and embarked
on a 1:20,000 topographic mapping process in 1990 using NAD 83
datum and photographs taken in 1989/90 with a large number of
control points. These very useful Terrain Resource Information Maps
are metric with 20m contour lines and point elevations on many peaks.
The variety of potential map references using different map scales,
datum and peak elevations, based on photography of varying vintages
presents a confusing challenge for the author. Hence, all elevations
given in this guide are based on current BC Government TRIM maps
and may differ from those given on maps more readily accessible to
the public.
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22
COMMUNICATIONS IN THE RANGE
CLIMATE AND WEATHER
M
ost of the Selkirk Mountain area is wilderness except for a
narrow strip of land bordering the Trans Canada Highway
between Revelstoke and Golden. In the event of an accident or
other serious emergency it may be difficult and time consuming to
obtain assistance. The first line of assistance is self-help and all parties
travelling in the more remote areas should be self-sufficient.
In recent years, logging roads have penetrated deeply into the heart
of the Selkirks, and these do provide a means of egress for parties
who must hike out to obtain assistance. However, this means of
exit can be long and time consuming. As well, one cannot assume
that all logging roads are currently in active use. Some roads may
be deactivated with major bridges and culverts removed, seriously
degrading or eliminating road access.
There is no cell phone coverage in the area so there is no point
carrying such devices at this time in the Selkirk Range. Small
transceiver radios offer the best means of communication in remote
areas. A large, telescoping antenna increases the range but there
remain many locations where one cannot receive or transmit signals.
Radio Frequencies... The advent of small portable transceivers,
operating in the 144-174MHz range has made it increasingly easy and
affordable to carry radios in the mountains to facilitate communication.
Note that frequencies do change, so if you are going to rely on a
specific frequency for communication, check to ensure that you have
the correct frequency. Do not expect parties to be listening on any
given frequency in the event of an emergency, unless you have made
prior arrangements for a party to monitor your transmissions.
CHANNEL
STATION
RX
TX
NATIONAL PARKS ................. GLACIER ................ 166.380
RCMP ........................................ REVELSTOKE .........139.245
................................................... GOLDEN ....................139.500
BC HIGHWAYS .......................... DONALD ....................143.440
BCFS.......................................... BLUE..........................164.085
................................................... PURPLE .....................163.965
HELICOPTERS........................... ALPINE ......................153.305
................................................... ALPINE ......................153.305
................................................... CANADIAN ................170.985
CMH .......................................... BOBBIE BURNS .....165.225
................................................... REVELSTOKE ........166.485
................................................... MONASHEES .........164.625
................................................... GOTHICS ...................164.625
................................................... ADAMANTS ...............150.815
LOGGING COMPANIES ............ WESTSTAR ................153.560
................................................... WESTSTAR ................156.320
................................................... WESTSTAR ................153.620
................................................... EVANS .......................153.320
WEATHER CHANNELS .................................................162.400
.......................................................................................162.475
.......................................................................................162.550
OFFSET
168.150 ......... 1.770
148.790 ............5.35
163.215 ............-0.087
158.535 ............5.23
172.905 ............1.920
166.560 ............1.305
165.435 ............-1.050
165.615 ............0.930
165.855 ............1.230
155.925 ............5.110
152.930 ............-0.690
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T
23
he El Nino / Southern Oscillation phenomenon is the biggest
player in the game of year-to-year climate variability. Strong El
Nino events can result in exceptionally warm, dry summers such as
in 1914, 1958, 1968 and 1998 when there were only one or two days
with measurable precipitation at Revelstoke, in all of July and August.
In contrast, when La Nina events dominate the climate, such as in
1956, 1988, 1995 and 1999, the weather is usually cool and wet, with
measurable precipitation occurring on 50% or more days in July and
August. It is worth noting however, that strong La Nina events do
not always create poor climbing conditions in the Selkirks. A strong
La Nina event began in 1970 but the author experienced only two
days of rain in an 18-day period in August of that year in the Selkirks.
The Selkirks are renown for their deep winter snowpacks. Snow
at the higher elevations (e.g. above 2000m) usually does not set-up
and become firm enough to facilitate easy travel until early July. In
some years, seasonal snow will persist until late August. Statistically
the best weather for climbing in the Selkirks occurs in the last week
of July and the first two weeks of August. In many years there is a
period of very unsettled weather in late August and early September,
after which extended periods of clear, stable weather may occur well
into late September and early October, although there is apt to be
fresh snow on the high peaks.
Lenticular clouds forming on the high peaks, notably Mount Sir
Donald, the Dawson Range and Grand Mountain, usually herald the
onset of storms. Inclement weather usually arrives from the southwest,
while winds from the northwest frequently indicate clearing weather.
Daytime temperatures in the alpine from mid-July to mid–August
may easily reach the high 20s (C), while nightime temperatures will
seldom drop to the freezing level. Lightning is likely to be more of
a hazard than hypothermia in the summer months.
High daytime temperatures in the Kamloops – North Okanagan
area create optimum conditions for the formation of large, towering
cumulus clouds. As these cumulus clouds track across the southern
Selkirks they can create intense storm cells and dramatic lightning.
Often cumulus clouds build in late afternoon over a period of
successive days and lead up to a major storm, then dissipate for several
days before the next cycle occurs. These storm cells may become
threatening by 3 or 4 pm and reach maximum intensity by early
evening (9 pm). Note however, that lightning storms associated with
the passage of a frontal system can occur at any time of the day.
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24
EQUIPMENT AND HAZARDS
THE ALPINE GRADING SYSTEM
25
T
he major objective hazards in the Selkirks are rockfall, icefall,
avalanches, crevasses, bergschrunds and lightning. Fortunately,
there have been few serious accidents and fatalities in the Selkirks.
The potential for rockfall is ubiquitous. Perhaps 50% or more of all
fatalities in the Selkirks have occurred on Mount Sir Donald, due to
rock fall, mostly on the old guides’ route, or due to unroped falls.
F
The Selkirks, and the Rogers Pass in particular, are renown for
the frequency and magnitude of winter avalanches. There is scarcely
a valley in the Selkirks that does not have obvious avalanche paths
cutting swathes through forested slopes. It might be tempting to
consider avalanches a winter and spring phenomenon. Avalanches of
ice and snow however, may occur throughout the summer climbing
season and have been responsible for several climbing fatalities in the
Selkirks. Beware of snow over steep ice that may avalanche in any
season.
Since the 1950s, long rock and alpine climbs in North America
usually have been rated using the National Climbing Classification
System, as developed by Leigh Ortenburger, otherwise known as the
‘Roman numeral grade’. In its original form the NCC system was an
attempt to incorporate all aspects of the entire climb including: length
of route; average difficulty of all individual pitches; difficulty of the
hardest pitch; ease of escape or retreat; objective hazards; and more
vaguely the challenge or degree of commitment implied by the route
into one meaningful acronym or symbol. This classification system was
largely usurped by application to climbs in Yosemite where it became
more a measure of time required. While time-based systems have
the advantage of simplicity and relative lack of ambiguity, they fail
to adequately encompass the range and variability of factors affecting
overall difficulty. Time-based systems provide a poor measure of
overall difficulty and commitment, particularly in glaciated terrain.
Rather than return to the original NCC system, the alpine grading
system as used in the French and Swiss Alps has been chosen for
Selkirks South since its application is closer to the original intent of
an all-encompassing grade.
Many routes in the Selkirks can be climbed simply with a rope,
an ice axe and perhaps a few slings. Note that snow cover is highly
variable, depending on the year and season, and it is difficult to predict
those routes that may require an ice axe or crampons. A general
rack for moderate climbs might include a small number of Rocks or
small camming devices, plus several camming devices or Hexcentrics
suitable for cracks up to 8-10cm in width. An attempt has been made
to provide, where known, specific information on gear requirements
on more technical routes.
Helmets and basic first aid kits are highly recommended. In
many areas covered by this guide, it may require one or more day’s
travel to obtain emergency assistance. The first line of assistance will
always be self-rescue – plan accordingly.
§
ew aspects of climbing generate more discussion and debate than
grading. One has only to examine the number of proposed grading
schemes for alpine routes, rock climbs and ice and waterfall climbs to
realize that grading is not a science based on immutable measurements
but rather a system which ultimately relies on consensus, leading to the
ranking of climbs on a continuum of difficulty from easiest to hardest.
European alpine grades were originally developed for the Mont
Blanc Range in the 1940s by the French, and have been broadly
applied since then in the Western Alps. Since many North American
climbers have visited the Alps and increasing numbers of Europeans
climb in North America, many climbers have familiarity with European
alpine grades, thus it seemed a natural choice for adoption in Canada.
Since two other guidebooks pertaining to Western Canada are
being written concurrently with this one (Kevin McLane’s Alpine
Select and Don Serl’s The Waddington Guide), the authors, after much
discussion on the merits of various grading systems, have collaborated
and adopted the same approach in all three guides. With the decision
to adopt European alpine grades, we have made a concerted effort to
try to ensure internal consistency within an area, as well as consistency
among the three guidebooks. We have been greatly assisted by
guidebook authors Sean Dougherty, Lindsay Griffin, Simon Richardson
and Andy Selters as well as others, in the process of identifying
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26
27
comparative routes for each grade. As a result it is hoped the majority
of grades reflect consistency and are reliable. The main caveat in
applying this grading system to the Selkirks is that approximately
one third of all routes have likely not seen a repeat ascent. Hence
assigning a grade has involved considerable degree of judgement on
the part of the author.
difficult pitches. A comparison of the other common grading systems
is shown in the table below. The alpine grade and the YDS technical
grade work together. Usually the higher alpine grades with their
increased commitment and difficulty will have higher YDS grades that
reflect increased technical difficulties. Where there appears to be a
mismatch or discrepancy between the alpine grade and the technical
grade, the climber should be alert to other aspects of the climb, which
may affect the overall grade. In those situations where a route has a
low alpine grade and a high technical grade, the technical climbing
is likely to be short and straightforward. Routes with a high alpine
grade and low technical grade may exhibit exceptionally poor rock,
difficult route finding, severe difficulties in retreat or other factors that
increase the overall commitment.
The alpine grade is meant to provide a measure that integrates
and summarizes all aspects of a route including technical difficulty,
sustained difficulty, length, altitude, approach, severity of terrain,
exposure, aspect, security of belay and rappel anchors, remoteness,
rockfall, icefall, and any other factor that affects the overall experience
and challenge. These factors combined, determine the degree of
commitment required by the climber.
Snow and Ice. Depending on the time of year and conditions specific
to any particular climbing season, alpine routes may be rock, snow
and/or ice, or a combination of all three. Snow and ice conditions can
change rapidly during the course of a day, as well as week to week.
As a result, current water ice / alpine ice grading systems have limited
utility and applicability in the alpine areas covered in this book. In
this guidebook, where snow and ice comprise a substantial part of a
route, with slopes in excess of 40 degrees, the maximum slope angle
and vertical height gain is provided as part of the overall route grade,
to assist the climber in making their own assessment of the difficulty.
For those who prefer slope length, for 450 slopes multiply the vertical
height by 1.4 and for 600 slopes multiply the vertical height by 1.15.
Fourth class. Fourth class is frequently a catchall grade for moderate
terrain, where, in ideal conditions, the experienced climber may
choose to climb unroped. This requires a high degree of confidence
and comfort in ‘reading’ the rock and route finding. Many early
alpinists were remarkably adept at route finding and rock scrambling
on exposed blocky alpine terrain, consequently many early routes
originally rated fourth class might be considered low 5th class by
today’s standards. Do not underestimate the capabilities of climbers
from previous generations – a route graded fourth class might easily
include short sections with difficulties to 5.4, which applies especially
to old, rarely repeated climbs.
YDS Technical grades. This guide uses the well-known Yosemite
Decimal System (YDS) to describe the technical difficulty of the most
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Alpine Grade Definitions. Traditionally few guidebooks have
attempted to provide concise definitions for overall alpine grades.
In order to ensure consistent application and transfer of European
grades to the Canadian environment, many well-known routes in the
Western Alps were examined. For this purpose a spreadsheet was
used to record as many salient characteristics of the European routes
as possible, and to sort and compare different characteristics as they
have been applied in the Western Alps. This information was then
used to develop the working definitions for each grade, as shown on
the following page.
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28
ALPINE CLIMB COMPARISONS
ALPINE GRADE DEFINITIONS
F
easy
(facile)
An easy climb is one that has very little technical difficulty on rock (mostly 3rd and
4th class) or snow (slopes to ~ 400) and glaciers requiring minimal route finding. The
overall challenge will be low although total vertical height gain can exceed 1000m.
PD
a little difficult
(peu difficile)
A not very difficult climb. Rock will be mostly 4th class through easy 5th class
(5.3-5.4) while snow slopes may be up to 450. May require climbing on exposed
ridges of rock and snow. Approach, route finding and descent are not particularly
challenging and hazards are usually limited.
AD
fairly difficult
(assez difficile)
A fairly difficult climb. Rock climbing is mostly low 5th class (to 5.4) though the
route may include short sections up to 5.6 and 5.7. Steep snow and ice (450 to 500)
may be present. Broken glaciers, knife-edged ridges and easy mixed terrain may
be encountered. Route finding, escape and descent can provide increased challenge
and may be problematic in poor weather. These routes are usually reasonable to
descend or downclimb.
D
difficult
(difficile)
A difficult climb will involve rock to mid 5th class (5.6 to 5.7) and/or very steep snow
and ice (to about 550). Height gain is usually over 500m, however the route may
be short and technically hard for the grade (low 5.9 to 5.10). Climbing is usually
sustained and rock may be loose. Route finding may be challenging and given a
choice, most climbers will prefer to descend via easier routes. Climbs at this level
of difficulty are demanding and present considerable challenge.
TD
very difficult
(très difficile)
Very difficult routes are generally over 500m in height with difficulty up to 5.8-5.9
or short and technically hard routes with difficulties to 5.11. There may be sections
of easy aid. The route may involve steep, poorly formed or exposed snow (to 650)
and sections of alpine ice of WI3 or WI 4 (750 to 900). Objective hazards may be
high, route finding can be very difficult and escape may not be possible. Descent
will require rappelling the route or exiting ‘over the top’. These climbs are very
challenging and demanding.
ED1/2/3/4
extremely difficult
(extrêmement difficile)
Extremely difficult climbs may be long (1000m and more) and technically very
difficult, or they may be shorter and technically extremely difficult and/or dangerous.
Rock climbing will be sustained at 5.8 or harder and may require difficult aid
climbing. Snow and ice will be very steep and probably thin, which may require
difficult mixed climbing. Some routes may receive an ED grade because of loose
rock but often they are very solid and very hard (5.10-5.11). Route finding can be
difficult while descents are often long, complicated and technical. Hazards may be
very high. Total commitment is required.
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29
The list below is presented here to show how Alpine Grades in this
guide compare with some well-known European climbs, and tentative
grades that have been informally applied to well-known North
American mountaineering routes. The definitions opposite should be
applicable in principle to the climbs.
Europe
United States
Eiger, 1938 Route
Mont Blanc, Central Pillar Freney
Grands Jorasses, Walker Spur
Les Droites, Northeast Spur
Mont Blanc, Red Sentinel
Aiguille du Midi, Frendo Spur
Tour Ronde, North Face
Matterhorn, Hornli Ridge
Les Courtes, Cordier Route
Mont Blanc, Standard route
ED1/2
ED1
ED1
TD+
D+
D+
D
AD+
AD
British Columbia
Mt. Combatant, Belligerence
ED3
Mt. Tiedemann, British Pillar
ED2
Howser Towers, Watchtower
ED2
Moby Dick, Ohno Wall
ED1
Mt. Waddington, South Face
ED1
Mt. Combatant, Skywalk Complete ED1
Howser Towers, Beckey–Chouinard TD+
Moby Dick, Boomerang
TD+
Les Cornes, Springbok Arete
TD+
Slesse, Northeast Buttress
TD
Mt. Clarke, North Ridge
TDMt. Waddington, Standard Route D+
Snowpatch Spire, Southeast Route D
Joffre, Central Couloir
DSir Donald, Northwest Ridge
DBugaboo Spire, Northeast Ridge AD+
Tantalus, Southeast Spur
AD+
Mt. Assiniboine, North Ridge
AD+
Claw Peak, West Ridge
AD
Alpha, East Ridge
AD
Mt. Slesse, Southwest Buttress
ADBugaboo Spire, Kain Ridge
ADSir Sandford, Northwest Ridge
ADPigeon Spire, West Ridge
PD
Uto Peak, Southwest Ridge
PD
Keeler Needle, Harding Route
TD
Bear Mt, North Face 1967
TD
Grand Teton, North Face
D+
Pingora, Northeast Face
D+
Mt Stuart, North Ridge Complete
D+
Grand Teton, Complete Exum Ridge D
Grand Teton, Black Ice Couloir
D
Mt. Rainier, Liberty Ridge
D
Shuksan, Price Glacier
D
Mt Whitney, East Buttress
DMt. Redoubt, Northeast Face
AD+
Mt. Baker, North Ridge
AD
Mt Whitney, East Face
AD
Forbidden Peak, West Ridge
AD
Pingora, South Buttress
AD
Mt. Rainier, Standard Route
PD+
Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys
PD+
Canadian Rockies
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
TD
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Alberta, North Face
ED3
Robson, Emperor Ridge
ED2
Andromeda, Andromeda Strain ED1
Kitchener, Grand Central Couloir ED1
Temple, Greenwood-Locke
TD+
Deltaform, Supercouloir
TD
Edith Cavell Nor. Face Chouinard
Robson, North Face
Columbia, North Ridge
Andromeda, Shooting Gallery
Athabaska, North Face
Temple, East Ridge
Edith Cavell, East Ridge
Louis, Kain Route
Andromeda, Skyladder
Athabasca, North Ridge
Victoria, Southeast Ridge
Athabaska, North Glacier
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TDTDD+
D+
D
D
DAD+
AD
PD+
PD
30
WATER AND HYGIENE
THE MOST DIFFICULT CLIMBS
Moby Dick Mountain
Moby Dick Mountain
Mount Macdonald
Yes Please Spire
Unnamed
Mainmast Peak
Mount Ahab
Mount Ahab
Mainmast Peak
Unnamed
Mount Sir Donald
Mount Sir Donald
Mount Fox
Mount Selwyn
Mount Proteus
The Thumbnail
Mount Sir Donald
Omoo Peak
Haematite Peak
Uto Peak
Mount Bonney
Mount Bonney
Feuz Peak
Unnamed
Mount Butters (Ishmael)
Mount Ahab
Mount Ahab
Mount Ahab
Goethite Peak
Mount Macdonald
Mount Macdonald
Mount Macdonald
The Poopdeck
Outrigger Peak
Evening Mtn S.Summit
Haematite Peak
Mount Butters (Ishmael)
SE Peak of Badshot
Mount Macdonald
Eagle Peak
Uto Peak
Thumb Spire
Uto Peak
Mainmast Peak
Moby Dick Mountain
Mount Macdonald
Mount Ahab
Unnamed
Nautilus Mountain
Moby Dick Mountain
The Rampart
The Rampart
Mount Sir Donald
Mount Sir Donald
Mount Sir Donald
Mount Sir Donald
362
365
9
366
451
331
318
320
330
453
53
52
193
204
382
470
51
340
464
35
125
126
210
137
310
315
316
319
465
10
11
13
323
344
447
463
308
490
7
28
36
471
34
329
363
6
317
136
457
364
81
82
46
47
48
49
West Face (Ohno Wall)
ED1, 5.8, A2
North Face (Boomerang) TD+, 5.8/5.9, 85°, 350m
Little Face
TD+, 5.8, A3
Northwest – West Face
TD, 5.10
South Buttress, West Ridge
TD, 5.10b
Northwest Rib, Left Side
TD-, 5.8
South Face (Crack of Noon) TD-, 5.11a
South Rib (Staircase Arete)
TD-, 5.10d, A1
Northwest Central Buttress
TD-, 5.10
South Face
D+, 5.9+
Northeast Buttress
D+, 5.8+
East Face
D+, 5.8, 40°, 400m
Northeast Face
D+, 5.8
Northeast Buttress
D+, 5.8
East Face (Tempus Fugit)
D+, 5.8
Southeast Ridge
D+, 5.8
North Face
D+, 5.7
NW Face (Battle Stations)
D+, 5.10d
North Rib
D+, 5.10a
Variation: South Face
D+, 5.10
Hanging Glacier
D, 60°, 500m
Variation: Right Exit
D, 60°, 500m
Comstock Couloir
D, 55°, 500m
Central Buttress Direct
D, 5.9
West Face (Drunken Sailor)
D, 5.9
Snakes and Ladders
D, 5.9
Snakes and Ladders var.
D, 5.9
South Face (Gadfly)
D, 5.9
Southwest Ridge
D, 5.9
West Face
D, 5.8
North Buttress
D, 5.8
North Face
D, 5.8
West Ridge
D, 5.8
Nantucket Sleigh Ride
D, 5.8
South Face
D, 5.8
North Ridge
D, 5.7-5.8
North Ridge, Northeast Face D, 5.7, A1
Northwest Ridge
D, 5.7, A1
North Face
D, 5.7
Northwest Buttress
D, 5.7
East Ridge
D, 5.7
South Ridge
D, 5.6-5.7
South Face
D, 5.6
Northwest Buttress
D, 5.6
North Ridge
D, 5.5
Direct Central Rib
D, 5.4
South Face (First Serve)
D, 5.10a
SW Face (Pterodactyl)
D, 5.10
West Ridge
D, 5.7+
Northeast Glacier
D-, 50°, 350m
Northeast Buttress
D-, 5.8
Variation: NE Buttress
D-, 5.8
Northwest Ridge
D-, 5.4
West Face
D-, 5.4
Variation: Fynn’s Bypass
D-, 5.4
W.Face Traverse, NW Ridge D-, 5.4
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31
U
ntil recently one could drink freely from any stream in the
Selkirks with minimal concern for personal health. In the
last decade however, at least two water borne diseases have been
identified in Selkirk streams; Giardiasis (sometimes referred to as
Beaver fever) and Campylobacter (or Campy). Giardiasis is caused by
a genus of flagellated protozoan parasites (Giardia lamblia) living in
the small intestine. In acute cases symptoms may include nausea,
upper intestinal pain, explosive diarrhea, and hydrogen sulfide (rotten
egg) gas. Campylobacter is a bacterium that infects the intestine and
sometimes the bloodstream, and can cause excess gas and diarrhea.
Another water borne disease that has become more common in British
Columbia is Yersinia psuedotuberculosis. Animals including rodents
and deer are known to be sources of Yersinia bacteria. Unlike other
bacteria, Yersinia grows well in the cold and can grow and spread
in refrigerated foods. Fever and abdominal pain are the hallmark
symptoms of this infection, which often mimics and may be confused
with appendicitis. Most people will recover without treatment.
A good rule of thumb in judging water quality is, if you cannot see
the source of the stream on a glacier, snowfield or spring, assume the
water is contaminated and treat accordingly by filtering or purification
tablets. Slow moving surface water and streams in heavily timbered or
vegetated valleys are definitely suspect, for example the Beaver Valley.
Deposit human waste as far from water bodies and streams as possible.
USING THE GUIDE
P
eaks that have either an official name or are unnamed are denoted
by Bold print. Unofficial names in common usage are in regular
type. Where a peak may be known by more than one name, the
alternate name is given in parentheses in regular type.
 Where used, this symbol indicates a climb which is also considered
a suitable descent.
Left and Right orientation is applied as a climber views the terrain,
inward on ascent and outward on descent.
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ENVIRONMENTAL ETHICS
A
side from the growing incursion of logging roads and associated
clearcuts, and the occasional mining claim or abandoned mine, the
Selkirks remain largely wilderness. True wilderness is an increasingly
scarce resource on this planet. Take care to ensure that the wilderness
experience is preserved for those who come after you. Please adhere
to the following practises to minimize your impact:
Select camp sites on durable terrain. Gravel flats are more durable
than meadows, grasses are preferable to heather, which is easily
damaged and can take decades to grow back.
Pay special attention to location of the kitchen, which is a high traffic
area. Vary travel patterns around camp to avoid creating trails. Travel
on gravel and boulders where feasible.
Food odors may attract bears or other animals. A clean camp is your
first and best protection from inquisitive bears. Wherever possible
store food 100m or more from where you sleep.
Open fires are not appropriate for alpine and subalpine campsites.
Do not build unsightly fire rings.
Pay attention to local drainage patterns and bury all human wastes
at least 50m from the nearest water source.
 Do not wash bodies or dishes in low volume streams and small
tarns, avoid the use of soap; rely on boiling water to maintain kitchen
hygiene.
Pack out or fly out everything you brought in with you. Do not
leave anything in the mountains which does not occur there naturally.
PROTECT THE WATER FOR ALL DOWNSTREAM USERS.
LEAVE ONLY FOOTPRINTS.
FLORA AND FAUNA
33
T
he dense, luxuriant forests typical of the Selkirks are the result of increased
precipitation arising from the orographic uplift of moisture laden clouds, as
they move east from the Pacific coast over the Interior Ranges. In most locales,
tree line varies from 1,700 to 1,850m
At intermediate elevations from 500 to 1,370m, the forest is comprised of
Western red cedar (Thuja plicata), Western hemlock (Tsuga heterophylla), Douglas fir
(Pseudotsuga glauca), Lodgepole pine (Pinus contorta) and Western white pine (Pinus
monticola). The under-story consists mostly of Devil’s club (Panax horridus), Pacific
yew (Taxus brevifolia) and Mountain alder (Alnus tenuifolia).
The Douglas fir disappears on the wetter western flanks above 670m, although
it grows as high as 1,200m on the east side of the range where it is drier. Western
hemlock is one of the most abundant species below 1,000m, while Western red cedar
is common in lower valleys and reaches its largest size on warm hillsides up to an
elevation of 1,200m. Lodgepole pine (two needles) is occasionally encountered
below 700m on drier sites while Western white pine (long five needle pine) is rather
scattered and seldom seen above 1,200m.
On moist slopes and in ravines, Devil’s club with its spine-encrusted stems and
deceptively prickly foliage, is common under-story vegetation among the cedar and
hemlock. In moist openings along the banks of streams, elderberries, willow and
alder, combined with copious quantities of cow parsnip, nettles and ferns make for
nearly impassable conditions. In drier locations, dense thickets of Pacific yew can
equally impede the progress of all but the most persistent traveler.
Engelmann spruce (Picea engelmannii), Mountain hemlock (Tsuga mertensiana),
Whitebark pine (Pinus albicaulis) and Subalpine fir (Abies lasiocarpa) are found at
elevations above 1,200m. The Engelmann spruce reaches its largest size below
1,300m, but its range extends to tree line. The Whitebark pine (short five-needle
cluster) is uncommon but occurs on exposed slopes above 1200m, often reaching
its largest size near tree line, where other species are becoming reduced in size.
Above 900m, the Subalpine fir increases in abundance towards the tree line where
its tall slim spires are conspicuous everywhere. In the subalpine zone Sitka alder
(Alnus sinuata) is especially prevalent on avalanche tracks.
In the mid-elevation Spruce-Balsam zone, the dominant species in the shrub
layer include White-flowered Rhododendron (Rhododendron albiflorum), Black
Huckleberry (Vaccinium membranaceum), False Azalea (Menziesia ferruginea) and
Gooseberry (Ribes lacustre). Dense thickets of these herbaceous shrubs can make
for slow, difficult bushwhacking, particularly with a full pack.
Mammals both large and small, were relatively common in the Selkirks before
the arrival of the European settlers. With the construction of the Canadian Pacific
Railway, the Trans Canada Highway and more recently numerous logging and
mining roads, the larger mammals have become fewer and retired into the deeper
recesses of the Selkirks. Today the climber and alpine explorer may travel for
several weeks in the Selkirks and not encounter a single large animal.
In frequenting forest and mountain slopes of the Selkirks, many people assume
that one will encounter either black bears (Ursus americanus), or grizzly (brown)
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FLORA AND FAUNA
FLORA AND FAUNA
bears (Ursus horribilis) also known as Silvertip bears. Given a choice and warned
by noise or smell, bears will usually avoid the traveller. However, if the traveller
inadvertently gets between a mother and its cub or otherwise surprises a bear, it
may respond in an unpredictable manner. People have been mauled and severely
injured by attacking bears. The author has encountered many bears in his travels
having been charged twice by grizzly bears and treed on another occasion for two
hours. A sow grizzly and three cubs once walked through the middle of camp
without bothering a single person, all of whom remained silent and motionless.
route, presumably planning to pounce at a suitable opportunity. Alerted by the
movement of the cat, the author selected an alternate route, which the cat followed
for some distance, until the advantage of height was lost. Cougars will usually flee
when approached in an aggressive manner. If attacked, respond forcibly.
It is important to be able to distinguish between a black bear and a grizzly
bear. Colour is a very unreliable indicator. Grizzly bears can usually be identified
by the prominent hump on the front shoulders and the large foot pad that is almost
straight across the front toe pads as compared with the smaller and more curved
toe pads of black bears. If surprised, black bears may charge, possibly multiple
times but may not attack. Fighting back may cause the black bear to retreat unless
they are (very rarely) preying on you for food. Black bears very rarely cause fatal
injuries.
Do not run as bears can negotiate the thickest of bush and all but the steepest
terrain much faster than any person, no matter how fit or frightened! If possible
climb a tree and do not stop until at least 8m above the ground. The larger the
size of the party, all other things being equal, the less likely a bear will attack.
If you surprise a grizzly bear, do not fight or run. The grizzly bear may charge
very close but not attack.
If attacked, curl up, protect the head and neck with the hands and remain
motionless until the bear has time to leave the vicinity. Data suggest that most
attacks last less than 2 minutes although it may feel like an eternity to the victim.
A backpack may be useful for partially protecting the back from bites and clawing
unless it contains food that will attract the bear. Some people have reported success
with Capsicum bear spray to repel attacking bears; “bear bells” are unlikely to
prevent surprising a bear since ambient noises can be much louder. See Herrero
(1985) and Herrero and Higgins (1998) for more information.
The climber is most likely to encounter grizzly bears in the alpine where they
are foraging on rodents and succulent plants. The alert backcountry traveler should
keep a lookout for bears, particularly when traversing ridges and undulating terrain.
Recent excavations in alpine meadows and trampled vegetation often suggest the
presence of grizzly bears, as do prominent claw markings on the bark of trees.
While bears should never be underestimated; watching a black bear suckling
her young, or a grizzly with her cubs slide down a snow slope on their backsides,
will forever change your view of these often unfairly maligned animals.
Another animal that may give concern but which is more rare than the grizzly
bear is the Mountain Lion or Cougar (Felis concolor). A member of the cat family,
the cougar may grow to lengths of 1m and weigh 90 kg. In over 35 years of travel
in the Selkirks, the author has encountered only one cougar. This animal was
travelling in the alpine and took up a position directly above the authors intended
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The more fortunate backcountry traveler may encounter the relatively common
Mountain goat (Oreamnos americanus), and less frequently Woodland or Mountain
caribou (Rangifer caribou).
Often the first sign of mountain goat are small tufts of white hair ensnared
on sharp vegetation along exposed alpine ridges. Small families of goats, and
occasionally an old, solitary male billy goat are often seen on high rocky cliffs. They
usually do not move far if they are above the hiker. Occasionally an old male billy
goat may become inquisitive and approach a camp or motionless hiker for closer
inspection, but rapidly leave at the slightest movement. At one camp, the author
was surprised when a male goat put his head right inside the tent to see who was
home!
In the early 1900s, Mountain caribou were relatively common and engineers
operating the CPR trains would report being held up for several hours, while herds
migrated between the southern and northern Selkirks by way of Flat and Bostock
creeks. The total world population of Mountain caribou, about 2,500 animals,
all of which live in southeastern B.C. were red-listed as an endangered species in
May 2000. Viable populations of Mountain caribou require extensive areas of old
growth forest for their survival in winter. The continued harvesting of old growth
forests for timber has significantly reduced the habitat for this vulnerable species
since the caribou rely almost solely on lichens that grow on the trees for winter
food. The Revelstoke herd of about 400 strong, appears to be stable. The relatively
small number of Mountain caribou in the Selkirks means the backcountry traveler
will seldom encounter them. Specific locations where they may be found include
Caribou basin in the Westfall group, Standard basin in the Carnes group and in the
vicinity of Tangier and Sorcerer passes.
Other large mammals such as Mule deer (Odocoileus hemionus) and Moose
(Alces alces) are usually found in valley bottoms with lush vegetation and wetlands.
Occasionally these animals will be encountered in alpine passes as they travel from
one watershed to another.
Among the smaller mammals, the climber may encounter the Yellow-haired
porcupine (Erethizon dorsatum); Bushy tailed rat (Neatoma cinerea), Hoary Marmot
(Marmota caligata) and Little Chief hare (Ochotona princeps).
The porcupine is a slow lumbering animal that seldom gives cause for concern
unless the climber gets too close and receives a slap of the tail, where upon the
unfortunate person may spend considerable time extracting barbed quills from leg or
boot. Porcupine have been known to chew tires and wiring insulation, on vehicles
parked in the bush for extended periods of time. Some aficionados of Selkirk travel
are known to wrap chicken wire around their vehicle, as a means of preventing
porky from dining on exposed car parts in its search for salt. However, make sure
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37
FLORA AND FAUNA
HUTS AND SHELTERS
that chicken wire is securely fastened and weighted with rocks to prevent access
beneath the wire.
Wheeler Hut
The Wheeler Hut was constructed in 1945-46 to honor the founding
member of the Alpine Club of Canada, Arthur O. Wheeler, noted
surveyor and geologist who explored extensively in the Selkirks.
The hut, owned and operated by the Alpine Club of Canada, is
located a few minutes walk from the parking lot at the Illecillewaet
Campground. The hut has extensive cooking facilities and sleeps 36
people comfortably on foam mattresses in the loft. Due to theft and
vandalism the hut is locked, although there is usually a custodian in
the summer months and often in December and March.
The bushy tailed rat or pack rat as it is often called due to its propensity for
kleptomania, is most likely to be encountered by the backcountry traveler while
camping or bivouacking. This rat is mainly nocturnal, and the unsuspecting camper
may be awakened by its late night visits in search of food and collectibles. Rats
have been known to remove laces from boots or in extremis, remove the entire
boot. Nylon ropes provide variety to an otherwise limited diet. Virtually every
party that bivouacs in the Uto-Sir Donald col will make the acquaintance of this
inquisitive animal.
The hoary marmot or Whistler usually announces its presence by a shrill
whistle as it gives warning of your approach to its fellow marmots. The marmot is
often seen basking in the sun on top of a suitable boulder, where she (as females are
more wary of intruders) can observe the coming and going of all the inhabitants of
the alpine scene. Although normally retiring, in some locations such as the slopes
below Mount Sir Donald marmots have become accustomed to people, and given
the opportunity will readily make a meal of a good pair of leather boots.
The pika, cony or Little Chief hare, commonly called rock rabbit, is closely
related to both hares and rabbits. This small mammal, identified by its oft-repeated
“ee-ee-ee” can be found on or near the summits of even the highest peaks in the
Selkirks. They can frequently be observed foraging on stems of gentian and saxifrage
or carrying bunches of grasses to a place where they may be eaten at leisure and
safety among the rocks, or simply used for making hay for the long winter months.
It will be an exceptionally lucky individual who sees the occasional solitary
Timber or Grey wolf (Canis lupis), Wolverine (Gulo luscus) or Martin (Martes
americana).
Arrangements to use the hut facilities can be made either by
contacting the Alpine Club of Canada (Box 8040 Canmore, Alberta
T1W 2T8; Phone 403-678-3200), or through the Park Interpretative
Centre in the Rogers Pass. Current fees are $17.50 for club members
and $24.00 for non-members per night.
Asulkan Hut
The Asulkan Hut, located at the head of Asulkan Brook, in Glacier
National Park, is used primarily for winter skiing and offers little
advantage to the summer climber. The hut at 1900m (map coordinates
669-742) can be reached by following the hiking trail up Asulkan
Brook to its end. The Alpine Club of Canada manages the hut, and
reservations can be made by contacting the club ($20 per person per
night). Asulkan Pass and the south end of the Asulkan Ridge can
be reached easily from this hut. Allow 4 hours to the hut from the
trailhead.
Sapphire Col Hut
(page 129)
The Sapphire Col Hut, located in Sapphire Col between the Dome
and Castor Peak on the Asulkan Ridge, provides a convenient base
for climbing along the Asulkan Ridge as well as in the Bonney Group.
This sturdy bivouac shelter is located at an elevation of 2590m / 8500
ft (map coordinates 651-732) and sleeps four comfortably, six or more
in a pinch. Water is conveniently obtained in a small glacier melt pond
on the upper Asulkan Glacier immediately below the hut.
§
Glacier National Park manages the Sapphire Col Hut and bookings
can be made by calling (250) 837-7500 – reception at the Park Office
in Revelstoke. Fees are $10/night/person. Unfortunately, there are no
amenities; bring everything you need. Both winter and summer use
is increasing so it is best to book ahead if you wish to ensure shelter.
The Parks have installed a biffy beside the shelter. Notify the Warden
Service or the Park Interpretative Centre if maintenance is required.
The hut is best approached via Asulkan Brook trail and a traverse of
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39
HUTS AND SHELTERS
HUTS AND SHELTERS
Asulkan Glacier to the col. Alternate approaches are via Asulkan Pass
and a traverse of Asulkan Ridge, or via Marion Lake trail to Abbott
Ridge and a traverse of the Asulkan Ridge to the col. Access times may
vary from 5 hours to most of a day depending on the route selected.
Selkirk-Tangiers Ski Lodge
Peter Schlunegger, owner of Selkirk Tangier Helicopter Skiing Ltd. has
a mountain lodge in the Albert Group, used almost exclusively for
winter skiing. This lodge is located at approximately 2300m / 7500
ft elevation, about 3.7km south of Virtue Mountain, map coordinates
494-548. The preferred mode of access is via helicopter. The hut
could be reached in one day from the end of the Akolkolex Forest
Service Road via the trail leading to the South Albert Peak-Greydike
col, thence to the Fulgurite-Greydike col and a traverse of the Albert
Icefield.
Glacier Circle Cabin (page 177, 181)
The Glacier Circle Cabin located in the amphitheater formed by
Mounts Selwyn, Fox, Macoun and Topham, between the Illecillewaet
and Deville glaciers, provides a convenient base for climbing in the
Dawson, Bishops and Purity groups.
The log cabin was constructed in 1922 by Mr. Fred Pepper of
Field, B.C. for the Canadian Pacific Railway, to provide a base for the
Swiss Guides climbing in the area. The cabin received a significant
renovation in 1972. The National Parks now own the cabin, and have
planned a major three-year renovation program beginning in 2001.
Glacier Circle Cabin is now a heritage site.
The cabin is notoriously difficult to find for the first time user,
who is often approaching the cabin at dusk or worse. It is located
in timber near the southwest side of the Glacier Circle amphitheater,
adjacent to the stream that drains the eastern flanks of Mount Fox at
approximately 1800m / 5900 ft elevation. See the Mount Wheeler
82 N/3 map sheet, map coordinates 725-691. The cabin sleeps eight
people, and in the past has contained all the necessary cooking and
eating utensils for eight people. An outhouse is located adjacent to
the cabin.
Glacier Circle Hut is usually approached via the Perley Rock
trail and a traverse of the Illecillewaet Glacier leading towards Mount
Macoun. Descend slabs and steep moraine to the floor of the Glacier
Circle basin, then traverse almost due south across the basin to the
hut. An alternate approach, although longer, which is suitable in bad
weather, is via the Beaver Valley trail to the 20 mile-warden cabin.
Cross the Beaver River via cable car and ascend the trail that leads
between Mounts Topham and Macoun to Glacier Circle. There is
one section of bushy terrain but once on the moraine, a trail leads
quickly to the cabin. Allow a full day for either approach.
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As this is a privately-owned facility, contact Peter Schlunegger,
P.O. Box 1409, Golden B. C., V0A 1H0. Phone 250-344-5016; fax
250-344-7102 or email at selkirk@rockies.net for more information.
Battle Abbey (page 297)
Battle Abbey is a large, three story stone and wood structure, located
on a bench at elevation 2200m, immediately northwest of Foremast
Peak, on Schooner Ridge in the Melville Group, Battle Range. Bill
Putnam and a host of conscripts have constructed the building over
the span of more than 20 years. The foundations were laid in the
summer of 1977, and the Abbey framed the following summer.
This hut is owned by Hans Gmoser and managed in winter by
Canadian Mountain Holidays. Summer arrangements may be made
through Roger Laurilla, Mountain Guide, P.O. Box 864, Golden, B.C.
Phone (250) 344-5292; fax (250) 344-7927 or by email at rwlvam@
rockies.net. In the event that Roger cannot be reached, contact
Canadian Mountain Holidays, P.O. Box 1660, Banff, Alberta, T0C
0C0. Phone toll free in North America 1-800-661-0252; Phone (403)
762-7100, fax (403) 762-5879.
Bill Putnam is frequently in residence during the summer months.
The hut is only accessible by helicopter or a multi-day backpack
through dense bush or over glaciers. Over the years a variety of
trails have been constructed to facilitate access to the peaks in the
immediate vicinity of the hut. The hut has full facilities and sleeps
up to 20 people.
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41
GOLDEN, REVELSTOKE AND ROGERS PASS
FOOD AND CAMPING IN REVELSTOKE
he towns of Golden and Revelstoke are both located on the
Columbia River, south of the Big Bend but on opposite sides of
the Selkirks; Golden on the east and Revelstoke on the west. The
Trans Canada Highway and the Canadian Pacific Railway connect the
two towns in a transportation corridor that bisects the range into the
Northern and Southern Selkirks. Each town boasts a rich historical
tradition intimately tied to the early exploration of the Selkirks and
subsequent establishment of the Canadian Pacific Railway as well as
the history of Canadian mountaineering.
Camping. BC Parks provides many recreation sites near Revelstoke.
Blanket Creek Provincial Campground is 10 minutes south of Begbie
Bluffs on Highway 23. Martha Creek Forest Campground is located
17.4km north of Revelstoke on Highway 23 North. The Tangier River
Forest Service campground is located 36km east of Revelstoke on the
Trans Canada Highway, and a short distance up the Tangier Forest
Service Road on the left (north) side of the Highway.
Today these communities are working hard to diversify their
economies, embracing tourism and supporting adventure sports as
well as many other outdoor and nature oriented activities. The visitor
may chose pursuits ranging from climbing, hiking, whitewater rafting,
mountain biking and hang gliding to golfing, fishing, trail riding and
bird watching along the Columbia River for example.
Groceries. There are a number of locations to stock up on food
including Coopers in the Mall, Southside Groceries, a 24 hour Chevron
Town Pantry on the Trans Canada Highway and a 24 hour 7-11 on
Track Street West, just off the Trans Canada Highway.
T
Both communities have populations ranging from 8,000 to 10,000
people, and both provide a wide range of basic services including
comfortable B&B’s, good restaurants and shopping. Although popular
sporting equipment can be purchased in Golden and Revelstoke,
climbing equipment is not readily available. Climbing supplies should
be purchased in Calgary or Vancouver (with limited choices available
in Canmore and Banff).
Rogers Pass Rogers Pass summit is located 80km west of Golden
and 70km east of Revelstoke on the Trans Canada Highway. Glacier
National Park warden office and highway maintenance facilities are
located here. There is a 24-hour Payless Gas Station and Convenience
Store, as well as the full-service 24-hour Best Western Glacier Park
Lodge (Phone 250-837-2126). The Rogers Pass can be reached via
Greyhound Bus service with three regular and one flag stop in each
direction daily at the Payless Gas Station.
The Revelstoke Traveller Hostel and Guest House is located at
403 W 2nd Street, $15 / night. For reservations phone 250-837-4050.
Restaurants & Pubs. Emo’s Pizza and Steak House Restaurant at
418 West 1st Street one block south of Coopers in the Mall, provides
good variety at reasonable prices.

Tony’s Roma Restaurant and Manning Restaurant both on
MacKenzie Avenue, the main drag, have been in business for many
years and offer reasonable fare.

The Frontier Motel and Restaurant at the junction of the Trans
Canada Highway and Highway 23 North is open 24 hours, and
provides gas, good meals and a convenient meeting location for those
heading off at some ungodly hour into the Selkirks. Information center
with city map located here.

Local climbers appear to frequent the Big Eddy Pub at the junction
of Highway 23 South and Big Eddy Road.
There is an interesting Parks Canada Interpretative Centre at the
summit with impressive displays telling the incredible story of the
construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway through the Selkirks
and the memorable saga of Glacier House and the Swiss Guides. The
Centre provides information and exhibits on the natural history and
wildlife of Glacier Park, as well as film presentations on the state of
the art avalanche forecasting and control procedures used to keep this
crucial transportation link open in winter.
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OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AROUND REVELSTOKE
Hiking

Trail up Mt. Revelstoke. Trail crosses the road that switchbacks
up the mountain. Excellent trails from the summit lead to several
small lakes. Check with the parks office on 3rd Street.

Trail up Mt. Begbie. Trailhead 10km south of Revelstoke on
Highway 31.

Trail up Mt. Cartier. Trailhead 11.3km south of Revelstoke on
the road past the airport.
Mountainbiking. for local information contact Summit Cycle Tours,
P.O. Box 2647, Revelstoke, B.C. V0E 2S0. Phone / fax 250- 837-3734
or 1-888-700-3444, website; www.summitcycle.com
Fishing. There is exceptional fishing for trout in the lakes and streams
around Revelstoke. Lake Revelstoke, the large reservoir behind
Revelstoke Dam, as well as the Arrow Lakes south of Revelstoke,
provides excellent fishing for kokanee, rainbow trout, Dolly Varden
and bull trout. A fishing license ($32/season) is required and can be
obtained at local sports stores.
Rafting. Whitewater rafting on the Illecillewaet River, contact Apex
Raft Company, P.O. Box 1754, Revelstoke, B.C. V0E 2S0. Phone
250-837-6376.
Museums and Places of Interest. The Revelstoke Railway Museum
located on 719 Track Street West (Phone 250-837-6060) in downtown
Revelstoke, offers an interesting exhibit covering the remarkable
history of the CPR in the area. A related exhibit found at Craigellachie
45km west of Revelstoke, is the location of the Last Spike driven in
the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway across Canada on
November 7, 1885.
There are two important dams located 5km and 150km north of
Revelstoke on Highway 23. The Revelstoke Dam (5km north) is a
large concrete gravity dam across the Columbia River, creating Lake
Revelstoke. The Mica Dam (150km north) is a massive earth-filled
dam, creating Kinbasket Lake. B.C. Hydro provides free tours at both
dam facilities.
There is a 26km paved road to the summit of Mount Revelstoke
in Mount Revelstoke National Park. The road switchbacks up the
mountain and offers exceptional views of the southern Columbia
Valley, while the alpine meadows are world renown for their flowers
in mid to late August.
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FOOD AND CAMPING IN GOLDEN
43
Camping
There is a municipal camp ground in Golden at the
Community Park, 1407 S 9th Street. This is a popular location in the
summer so it is best to phone for reservations at 250-344-5412. Golden
Swimming Pool at 1408 S 9th Street adjacent to the Community Park
(phone 344-2118) is a convenient location to obtain a shower. Another
possible location to consider is the Golden Backpacker Hostel ($15/
night) at 520 Station Ave. For reservations phone 250-344-5071.
A free campground is located in the Blaeberry Valley immediately
adjacent to the Blaeberry River. From the Golden turnoff, drive
10.8km west on the Trans Canada Highway to Moberly Branch Road.
Turn right and follow Moberly Branch Road to a T intersection, turn
left and follow Upper Donald / Oberg Johnson Road, which meets
Moberly School Road at another T junction 4.8km from the TCH.
Turn left and follow Moberly School Road until the road forks. Curve
right onto Blaeberry Road and follow it to a bridge crossing the
Blaeberry River. The Blaeberry Creek campground (12.3km from
the TCH) is on the right hand side in a large clearing.
Groceries. There are a number of locations to stock up on last minute
provisions including the IGA, Overwaitea Foods and a 24-hour Seven
Eleven store in downtown Golden. Locals report that Columbia Esso,
1119 Trans Canada Highway, phone 344-2712 is the most reliable place
to obtain emergency vehicle repairs.
Restaurants & Pubs.
Opinion varies as to the best restaurant.

The Dogtooth Café at 1007 South 10th Street, phone 344-6600.
At least one local claims the best food is to be found here

The Donald Station Café, 20km west of Golden, en route to the
Rogers Pass is reported to have good veggie burgers.

Sisters & Beans at 112 - 10th Avenue South, approximately one
block south of Overwaitea Foods on the left (east) side of the Highway
95 offers excellent variety at reasonable prices. Phone 344-2443.

Katerina’s at 825 S 10th Avenue across from the Mohawk gas
station offers good value. Phone 344-5695.

The Husky Gas Station located on the Trans Canada Highway
immediately north of the city center has a 24-hour restaurant and store,
and serves as a convenient meeting location for those early morning
departures.

The Mad Trapper Pub located at 1203 South 9th Street, just east
of Kicking Horse Grill is a popular watering hole – Phone 344-6661.
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OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AROUND GOLDEN
ROCK CLIMBING
here are at least five fly-in lodges located near Golden, in the
surrounding Purcell, Rockies and Selkirk ranges. They are
situated at elevations affording some of the most spectacular scenery
in British Columbia. These lodges serve as very comfortable and
convenient bases from which excellent hiking, skiing and some
climbing opportunities are available. For further information contact
the Golden Chamber of Commerce.
Begbie Bluffs are located on the left (east) side of Highway 23, 8.8km
south of Revelstoke. The Bluffs offer exceptional steep juggy climbing
on Shuswap gneiss with over 100 routes up to 45m long on 7 cliffs.
Most routes are bolted with difficulty up to 5.12.
Hiking. For one of the best hikes or scrambles in the area with
views of Mount Bryce, Mount Columbia and the west side of the
Columbia Icefields, drive and hike up the Bush River. Travel 23km
west of Golden to Donald and take the Big Bend Highway north to
the Bush River Road, and then up the Camp David Road (total 118km
from Golden). Park at the top of the Camp David Road and hike up
through trees onto a ridge that parallels the upper Bush River.
South of Begbie Bluffs is a new sport crag, Shaketown. Continue
about 4km south of Begbie Bluffs on Highway 23 and look for Spur
A logging road on the left (east) side of the road. Follow this spur for
1.4km to a parking lot two minutes from the crag.
T
There are numerous walking paths in and around Golden, contact the
Chamber of Commerce.
Mountainbiking. Golden offers many opportunities for mountain
biking. Contact Summit Cycle, 1007, 11th Avenue South in Golden,
Phone 344-6600, for more information on local routes and trails.
Rafting. There are several companies in the Golden area, which
offer white water rafting on rivers such as the Kicking Horse River
and Blaeberry River. For more information contact:
 Glacier Raft Company Ltd., Box 428, Golden, B.C. V0A 1H0.
Phone 250-344-6521.
Wet ‘N Wild Adventures, Box 2586, Golden, B.C. V0A 1H0. Phone
250-344-6546
In The Sky. The annual Canadian National Hang Gliding and
Paragliding Championships are held in early August. Launching from
Mount 7 above Golden, paragliders have traveled south more than
100km, while hang gliders have traveled more than 300km south on
thermals above local mountaintops.
See Central BC Rock by Lyle Knight for specific route information
on Begbie Bluffs and Lauretta Slabs. Local information may be
obtained at Free Spirit Sports, 203 West 1st Avenue, Phone 837-9453.
The Lauretta Slabs are located above the Trans Canada Highway
24km east of Revelstoke (about 12km west of Albert Canyon). A
15-minute hike leads to a clean, high quality slab of gneiss, in a fine
setting on a ridge above the valley. Routes up to 7 pitches long and
5.12 difficulty can be found. Two 50m ropes are usually required for
rappels.
The warmest and driest location is found at Spillimacheen,
approximately 62km south of Golden. At Spillimacheen, turn right
(west) on Westside Road, cross the railway tracks and the Columbia
River and follow the main gravel road for about 8km. There is a
side road leading to the Jubilee Forest Service campground at the first
switchback after the electrical powerplant. The 1st parking site is in a
large clearing below obvious rock cliffs, on the right hand side above
the road. A trail leads in about 10 minutes to the base of the obvious
cliff – Pocket Wall. Approximately 100 routes have been developed
on Pocket Wall and adjacent cliffs in the immediate vicinity, with
climbing difficulties up to 5.12. Unfortunately, there are very few
routes for the sub 5.9 climber. Some routes are a full 50m.
Wetlands. The Columbia River Wetlands, the largest wetland west
of Manitoba supports an amazing diversity of wildlife. Over 250
species of birds and other wildlife have been recorded in the area.
Contact Kinbasket Adventures Wetland Tours; Box 4137, Golden, B.
C., V0A 1H0. Phone 250-344-6012; fax 250-344-6140, email kbasket@
rockies.net.
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BATTLE RANGE
BATTLE RANGE
T
he Battle Range encompasses the Melville, Westfall and Nemo
groups of the southern Selkirks. When seen from a distance, the
steep walls and crenellated ridges of the main peaks might suggest the
battlements of some fortification. Indeed, for many years the almost
impenetrable bush, steep valleys and rugged terrain stopped all but
the most persistent of mountain travelers from gaining access to the
inner sanctum of the Battle Range. Even today, with the many logging
roads that have begun to intrude into the wilderness of the Battle
Range, the final approaches through dense bush and forests presents
a formidable challenge to those who attempt to walk into the range.
The majority of the Battle Range is composed of granite.
Unfortunately, it is not the flawless granite that climbers might expect
at Squamish, the Bugaboos or even the Adamants in the northern
Selkirks. Although there are some areas with firm granite, more
commonly the granite is fractured with many blocks more typical of
alpine settings.
The true origins of the Battle Range name are lost. In 1893, W.S.
Drewry reported that Battle Creek had been named to commemorate
an encounter between a prospector and a grizzly bear. Subsequent
accounts have embellished the story and ascribed the encounter to
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various players at later dates. Whatever the origins of the name,
subsequent explorers and mountaineers have certainly battled with
dense Selkirk bush and steep mountain creeks to gain access to the
Battle Range.
There are at least five overland routes leading to the Battle Range.
Several have more historical interest than practical value today. Routes
used to approach the Battle Range include:
·
Rogers Pass via the Beaver Valley
·
Beaton via the Incomappleux River and its tributaries
·
Parson, south of Golden via McMurdo Creek and Silent Pass
·
Rogers Pass via the Illecillewaet and Deville Icefields
·
Coopers Creek and the Duncan Forest Service Road.
The earliest approach to the Melville Group was via the Beaver
River to the Beaver-Duncan divide, then down the Duncan River to
Butters Creek. The present day Beaver River trailhead is located at
the end of a short side road 10.8 km east of Rogers Pass. The trail
follows the Beaver River, past several warden cabins (locked) and
ends near the Beaver-Duncan divide. Parties then bushwhack up
Butters Creek through extensive alder, to reach either Butters Lake
or the glacier and moraine at the head of south branch of the creek.
Although the Beaver Valley trail offers sections of very pleasant
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BATTLE RANGE
BATTLE RANGE
hiking, it is an arduous approach route to the Battle Range.
In the mid-40s several parties organized by A. J. Kauffman,
approached the Battle Range from the west by starting at either Beaton
or the abandoned mining town of Camborne on the Incomappleux
River. Hike or drive the logging road along the east bank of the
Incomappleux River to Kellie Creek. After Kellie Creek ascend the
steep timbered slope, heading northeast to reach the alpine below
Battle Mountain. A series of barrier ridges must be crossed to gain
access to the main uplift of the Melville Group. Dense bush and
steep exfoliated granite slabs on the northern flanks of Kellie Creek
make this valley an impractical means of approach.
Later the Battle Range was accessed from Parson south of Golden
on Highway 95, via a logging and mining road up the Spillimacheen
River and McMurdo Creek to Silent Pass. From Silent Pass, forested
slopes were descended to the Duncan River, which was crossed by
felling a tree over the river (all logged in recent years). The route then
followed Butters Creek (originally named Holway’s), alternating banks
to avoid the worst blowdowns and alder-covered slopes. Nearing
the headwaters, a steep climb out of the valley ascended snow and
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49
glacier to a low pass (possibly Schooner Pass?), which crossed into the
headwaters of Houston Creek. The slopes below Moby Dick Glacier
were then traversed to Houston Glacier, and followed by a traverse
of the northeast slopes of Claggart Peak to Oasis Lake. Alternately,
on reaching the Duncan River, parties traveled downstream to the
confluence with Houston Creek. Houston Creek was then followed
upstream and crossed to gain the south bank and slopes leading to
the Nemo Group. These are long, laborious and roundabout routes
that have little merit.
A more recent approach pioneered in 1972 and used frequently
by winter ski touring parties, begins at Rogers Pass with a traverse
of the Illecillewaet and Deville Icefields, after which a traverse is
made over Grand and Sugarloaf mountains. This route is described
in more detail in the Regional Traverses section, pages 66–68.
More recently a new logging road, the Duncan Forest Service
Road, has improved the possibility of access although it appears
seldom used. From Nelson or Creston in the southern Kootenays,
drive north to Highway 31 leading to Kaslo and Coopers Creek.
Alternately from Revelstoke take Highway 23 south to Shelter Bay;
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51
BATTLE RANGE
take the ferry across the upper Arrow Lake to Galena Bay, thence via
Highway 31 past Trout Lake to Coopers Creek, a short distance south
of Meadow Creek. Allow between 3 ½ to 4 hours from Revelstoke
to Coopers Creek.
At Coopers Creek turn east and cross the Duncan River to join
the Duncan Forest Service Road. The following table gives some
locations and distances along the road from Coopers Creek.
- First bridge crossing the Duncan
56.5 km
- Second bridge crossing the Duncan
67 km
- Duncan-Westfall Road Junction
76.1 km
- Third bridge crossing the Duncan 97.7 km
- Houston Creek
100.3 km
- Butters Creek
105.8 km
In 1998 the road was in generally good condition, and drivable
with an ordinary vehicle with good clearance to Houston Creek.
Thereafter the road deteriorates quickly. Check with local authorities
before using the road since rock fall, wash outs, mudslides and falling
trees may block the road at any time.
MELVILLE GROUP
O
n the eastern slopes, the Melville Group is delineated by Butters
Creek to the north, Duncan River to the east and Houston
Creek to the south. On the western slopes, the group is defined by
Battle Brook to the north, the Incomappleux River to the west and
its tributary Kellie Creek, to the south.
Useful 1:50,000 NTS map sheets are Westfall River 82 K/14 and
Camborne 82 K/13.
G EOLOGY : The Battle Range Batholith, intruded into the
Hamill and Lardeau host rocks, forms the major uplift associated with
the Melville Group. Aside from a small area near the centre of the
batholith in the vicinity of Mount Pequod, the rock is muscovite-biotite
granodiorite. Mount Pequod is comprised of pyritiferous alaskite, the
weathering of which gives the rock a gold and rusty colour.
The muscovite-granodiorite rock along Schooner Ridge tends to
be more frost shattered and of poorer quality, than that of the central
uplift extending from Mount Butters in the north to Mount Proteus
in the south. The rock comprising the western half of the Melville
Group is mostly biotite granodiorite, which provides excellent climbing
on clean rock.
ACCESS:
The Melville Group has been approached via the
Beaver Valley, McMurdo Creek and Silent Pass, as well as via the
Incomappleux River and north shoulder of Kellie Creek, and the high
level regional traverse from the Rogers Pass (described previously).
Perhaps the most scenic and practical overland route follows the
regional traverse from the Rogers Pass (pages 66–68). The construction
of the Duncan River Forest Service Road extending 108kms north from
the village of Coopers Creek to the headwaters of the Duncan River,
provides an alternate means of reaching either Houston or Butters
creeks. However, one is still faced with an extended bushwhack up
these creeks to reach the alpine, thus offsetting any gains achieved by
driving the forest service road.
Today most climbers rely on a helicopter, usually from Golden,
to access the Melville Group.
Sign at Battle Abbey
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52
MELVILLE GROUP
MELVILLE GROUP
CAMPING AND BIVOUAC SITES: Battle Abbey provides a good
location for climbing on Schooner Ridge. Battle Abbey is a large
mountain hut, constructed by Bill Putnam and various conscripts
over the years. It is located on a bench at an elevation of 2200m,
immediately northwest of Foremast Peak on Schooner Ridge. The
hut is owned by Hans Gmoser and managed in winter by Canadian
Mountain Holidays. Summer arrangements can be made through
Roger Laurilla (mountain guide) of Golden, B.C. Trails lead west
from the Abbey towards the headwaters of Butters Creek making it
possible to climb Mount Butters, Ahab or Moby Dick in a long day.
Many of the peaks of the Melville Group are best approached
from locations other than Battle Abbey. Common campsites include:
Houston Lake below Houston Glacier approximate elevation 2020m,
or Houston Pass at the head of Houston Creek approximate elevation
2375m. Either of these locations provides good access to the southern
portion of the Melville Group.
Butters Camp located at approximately 1830m elevation, adjacent
to Butters Creek.
Noranda Flats, as the name implies, is a relatively large flat area
immediately south of Mount Butters at approximately 2150m, that
may be preferable to Butters Camp. There is a good campsite near
large boulders, map coordinates 733-468.
RECOMMENDED ROUTES:
The Melville Group arguably offers the finest climbing in the Battle
Range and there are many routes worthy of consideration. A selected
list of routes include:
Mount Butters, South Ridge
Mount Ahab, South Ridge Direct
Mount Ahab, South Face (Crack of Noon)
Mainmast, Southwest Ridge
Mainmast, Northwest Rib (Left Side)
Foremast Peak, Northwest Ridge
Moby Dick Mountain, Southwest Ridge
Moby Dick Mountain, Northeast Glacier
Whitejacket Mountain, Southeast Ridge
Mount Proteus, North Glacier
Mount Proteus, Northeast Ridge
Redburn–Proteus Traverse
Harpoon Peak, Direct South Ridge
Escalade Peak, East Ridge
Obstacle Peak, Southeast Ridge
#309
#314
#318
#327
#331
#335
#358
#364
#373
#379
#381
#383
#385
#387
#396
Pequod Pass at the head of Houston Creek, has been used as an
advanced base camp by a number of parties undertaking technical
routes on the north and west flanks of Moby Dick.
The Hermitage is located at the north end of the long north ridge
of Harpoon Peak at approximately 2250m, map coordinates 682475. The Hermitage provides a reasonable base from which to
approach the north and west flanks of the Melville Group. Many
of the approach routes however, remain long and in late season will
become technical.
The alpine meadows west of Butters Lake provide a location from
which to climb Mount Butters from the north.
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PD+
5.0
AD
5.6
D+ 5.11a
AD
5.4
TD5.8
PD+
5.4
PD+
5.1
D- 50° 350m
AD
5.6
PD
4th
PD
4th
PD+
5.1
AD
5.4
AD
5.7
AD
5.7
54
MELVILLE GROUP
MELVILLE GROUP
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56
MELVILLE GROUP
MELVILLE GROUP
Moby Dick Mountain
3154m
Douglas Anger’s 1958 party began the nautical theme that runs
through the Battle Range. He noted that “the white face rearing
up against the tumbled ice below, together with the man-againstbeast theme of this region, suggested the name Moby Dick for this
spectacular peak” (CAJ 43:40). Subsequent parties to the region have
continued this tradition, often adopting themes and characters from
Herman Melville’s novels.
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The Moby Dick massif includes five separate summits of which
the eastern most peak is the highest. Recent maps show the western
summit as Mount Moby Dick while the higher, eastern summit is
Moby Dick Mountain. The northern and western flanks present
a spectacular wall over 800m high. The high crenellated ridge
connecting to Mount Proteus offers several outstanding routes on
generally solid granodiorite.
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MELVILLE GROUP
357 South Glacier
MELVILLE GROUP
F, 4th

Douglas Anger, Fenwick Riley, Samuel Silverstein, July 26, 1959
CAJ 43:47; DMJ 1960:5
From Houston Camp, ascend Moby Dick Glacier to a broken rock rib running
up the centre of the south face due south of the highest (east) summit of
Moby Dick. Easy scrambling (3rd class) leads up the rib to its end at the
upper snowfields. Climb up the snow to the obvious notch in the summit
ridge. A few minutes scrambling leads to the main summit. This is the
easiest route and by far the most expeditious line of descent. Ascent:
4–6 hours from Houston Camp.
358 Southwest and West Ridge
PD+, 5.1
Genie Andrews, Leigh Andrews, Harriet Kruszyna, Robert Kruszyna, July 22, 1970
CAJ 54:33
A fabulous route with extreme exposure but reasonably easy climbing,
encompassing all five summits of Moby Dick. This would be a very
committing route in marginal weather as there are very few places to exit
off the ridge. Rain would make the black lichen very slippery and extend
the time by 2–3 hours or more.
From Houston Camp, ascend Benito Cereno by its southwest ridge
(see Benito Cereno, route 367). Climb down the pleasant slabs of Cereno’s
northeast ridge (one spot requires a 45m rappel) to the Benito Cereno–Moby
Dick col. Allow 6–7 hours to this point.
The long ridge (nearly half a kilometre) leading toward Moby Dick is
about one meter wide. It is crenellated with gendarmes, and stupendously
exposed with a sheer drop of 800m to the northwest, while to the south,
steep slabs end in a voracious schrund. Climb along this narrow crest,
which is surprisingly only 4th class, making one very exposed traverse on
the left (north) side below an overhanging gendarme. Stay on the ledges
for 25–30m and then climb back to the ridge crest and continue along the
exposed west ridge over slabs and blocks to the western summit (Point
5). Allow 3–4 hours to Point 5 [c. 3110m].
Continue east along the ridge, descending into the 5-4 col, traversing
over Point 4 [c. 3100m] and then along the ridge crest to Point 3. The
59
actual summit of Point 3 is a striking obelisk about 5m high, which is usually
not attained. Descend to the 3-2 col where a 100m wall, the west face
of Point 2 which is quite formidable in appearance, bars the way.
The original ascent party climbed easy chimneys to the top of the
buttress, to gain a narrow ledge extending across the face to its left
(north) corner. The route is reminiscent of the famous Bicycle path on
the Grepon. The north corner is the airiest situation of the entire climb.
From the corner, climb through a horizontal chimney to the north face.
Delicately traverse mossy ledges, wedge up a shallow groove and then
hand traverse a short section of a sharp ridge to the capacious summit of
Point 2 [3140m]. Descend to the 2–1 col and follow the ridge over more
airy, moderate and enjoyable climbing to the main (east, Point 1) summit.
Alternately and more easily, from the 3–2 col, contour across the south
flanks of Peak 4 and ascend to the ridge crest west of the main summit
after circling the peak. Continue along the airy ridge, negotiating a number
of short steps to the main summit.
Allow a minimum of 10–12 hours return to Houston Camp although
some parties may require significantly longer, particularly if the original
ascent route over Peak 4 is included. Gear: set of wires, #1, 2 & 3
Camelot’s, 4-6 long slings.
359 Variation: Southeast Couloir
PD, 5.0
Johanna Gastonguay, Ross McKeon, Inge Stolz, Jamie Walker, Brad Harrison, August 13, 1999
[p.c.]
From Houston Camp, ascend Moby Dick Glacier as in the south face
route. Approaching the south face, head north and west into the basin
below the central summits and climb a 45° snow couloir that leads to the
col just west of the central peak. From the col, contour across the south
slopes of the centre peak and ascend to the ridge crest west of the main
summit. Continue along the ridge crest over a number of steps (lots of
good horns) to the main summit. Ten hours return to camp. Gear: #4 to
#7 nuts, 4 small cams and several long slings.
360 East Ridge
PD, 5.0
David Michael, William L. Putnam, Arnold Wexler, August 15, 1972
AAJ 18(47):442, CAJ 56:71
[p.c.]
From either Butters or Houston camp, reach the summit of Pequod
Mountain and descend the severely fractured west ridge by downclimbing
and rappels to gain the Moby Dick–Pequod col [2910m]. From the col,
follow the east ridge over snow and rock to a minor subsummit. Rappel
or downclimb (5.0) a tricky little step to a notch and continue easily to the
main summit. Ascent: 2–3 hours from the col.
The Moby Dick–Pequod col may be gained from the Moby Dick Glacier
via the north couloir, however negotiating the bergschrund is very difficult
in most years.
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60
MELVILLE GROUP
MELVILLE GROUP
361 Variation: Southeast Shoulder PD, 5.0
Approach as for the South Face (# 357) but continue towards the south
buttress of the east ridge. Ascend a narrow 450, 150m high snow and ice
couloir with good rock horns for belays as appropriate. Exit the couloir and
ascend rock and snow to the minor subsummit on the east ridge. Continue
along the ridge as in East Ridge (# 360) to the summit.
362 West Face (Ohno Wall)
ED1, 5.8, A2
The Ohno Wall, 800m high, is the west face of the north ridge of Moby Dick
(Point 5, the west summit). It rises above Proteus Glacier in what Robert
Kruszyna has aptly termed “an elemental surge of raw granite”. From
Butters Camp, cross Pequod Pass, go around the northwest ridge of Moby
Dick and reach the base of the face. An advanced bivouac near the foot of
the face is helpful. This route was the first multi-day ascent in the Selkirks.
The route starts at the left of the prominent black streaks on the lower
part of the face and generally follows the fall line. It stays to the left of
these streaks until the first great transverse ledge is reached. Continue up
through a prominent chimney and a series of corners, past a snow patch on
the second ledge, up the final wall and a sharp rib to the summit.
This is a remote and serious big wall in a distinctly alpine setting. The
route required 27 pitches, 12 of which were partial or all aid. The 1972 party
used mostly nuts but also pitons up to 15 centimeters, knife blades, skyhooks
and 5 bolts, the latter for belay anchors and a pendulum between major crack
systems. Some of the cracks were dirty and mossy, and some loose rock
was encountered. The route is subject to rockfall (Ohno!). Ascent: 5 days.
Descent was made via the north couloir glacier in rock shoes!
363 North Ridge
363) and the North Buttress (# 365). Climb directly up the glacier to the
summit. Crevasses, particularly a major bergschrund three-quarters of the
way up the route can be difficult to cross, more so later in the season. In
the last 10 years, continued glacial recession has lead to more crevasses
and broken glacier. Ascent: 6 hours, descent 3 hours.
365 North Face (Boomerang)
TD+, 5.8/5.9, 85o
Dave Pollari, Jim Ruch, July 25, 1988
CAJ 72:82
David P. Jones, John Markel, L. Robbins Wallace, August 12-16, 1972
AAJ 18(47):316, CAJ 56:14
The first ascentionists describe this route as an excellent couloir climb with
safe belays, good protection and relative freedom from objective danger.
The difficulty will vary greatly with the state of the ice and the weather.
Highly recommended.
From Butters Camp or Pequod Pass, proceed as in Northeast Glacier
(# 364) to the base of Moby Dick’s north glacier. The major (north) rock
buttress, left (east) of the north glacier is split by a prominent curved
dihedral called the Boomerang. Climb the dihedral, which is serious and
committing, involving difficult rock, polished slabs and mixed wet ice and
rock pitches (5.8/9). The route ends on the summit ridge just east of the
main summit. Descent via the north glacier. Ascent: 10–14 hrs from
Pequod Pass.
Yes Please Spire
Yes Please Spire is a very large, prominent gendarme approximately
230m high on the west ridge that bounds the Ohno Wall on Moby
Dick. When seen from a distance the west and north faces of the
[p.c.]
A long, sharp ridge falls to the north from the west summit of Moby Dick
and is a major feature of the massif.
From Butters Camp, cross Pequod Pass to the glacier north of Moby
Dick. Traverse the glacier to the foot of the ridge, which at its base curves
toward Pequod Pass. Two ramps on the right (west) side of the ridge are
climbed until it is possible to traverse back left (east) to the crest. Continue
up the ridge (mid 5th class) to the west summit and thence via the west
ridge to the main summit.
Descend the Moby Dick Glacier on the south flanks, cross over the
Pequod–Forecastle col and descend the Pequod Glacier to regain Butters
Camp. With recent glacial recession, the lower slopes of the Pequod Glacier
have become extensively crevassed and in some years may be difficult to
negotiate. Ascent: long day return to Pequod Pass.
364 Northeast Glacier
D-, 50°
350m
Fred Beckey, Dave Pollari, Jim Ruch, July 24, 1988
CAJ 72:82
Battle Abbey, looking northwest toward The Poopdeck and Ahab.
From Butters Camp or preferably a bivouac in Pequod Pass [2470m], cross
the pass and descend to the base of a very prominent, steep and heavily
crevassed north glacier. This glacier descends between the North Ridge (#
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350m
[p.c.]
D, 5.5
Rene Bucher, Paul Dale, July 20, 1977
61
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Selkirks South

Transcription

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