The 1995 Chrysler LeBaron - The National Locksmith

Transcription

TM
The Official Publication of the
NATIONAL LOCKSMITH
AUTOMOBILE ASSOCIATION™
Publisher's Page ...............................................................page 3
Director's Page ..................................................................page 4
Starting Line .....................................................................page 5
Fill It Up With Regular ...................................................page 8
Life In The Fast Lane – Mercede ................................page 13
Joe’s Garage .....................................................................page 22
Dealing with Dealers ....................................................page 24
How The Heck…? ..........................................................page 25
Nuts & Bolts ....................................................................page 27
Feature Articles:
The 1995 Chrysler LeBaron .......................................page 1
The Z-Tool Story .......................................................page 40
The Not-So-Amazing Ford Contour........................page 44
Auto Parts ...................................................................page 48
FEATURE ARTICLE
The 1995 Chrysler LeBaron
Some significant changes to thwart thieves,
but not NLAA locksmiths.
By Michael Hyde
he 1995 Chrysler LeBaron
has some changes for the
automotive locksmith. Chrysler
has made some changes to the
ignition because of car thefts.
This model is popular with
rental car fleets as well as car
thieves. (See photograph 1.)
T
SUMMER
1995
Opening
This is an easy car to open, it
has vertical linkage that is not
shielded. I used the Z-Tool from
Slide Lock Tool Co. to open the
door. Use wedges and a light, if
necessary. (See photograph 2.)
(Continued on page 31)
1. The
1995
Chrysler
LeBaron.
FROM
THE PUBLISHER
Marc Goldberg
It's hard to believe that it is time to write another Publisher's
Page for the AUTOMOTIVE EDGE, your NLAA newsletter! By
now you can see that the NLAA is doing good work to keep you
at the forefront of the wild, wooly world of automotive
locksmithing.
There are a few notes to be aware of. Keep your eyes glued to
The National Locksmith magazine, for word of the new 1995 update
for the AutoSmart manual. This will be a massive update,
including a ton of information for the 1995 model year. So if you
have an AutoSmart, you will want this update. And if you don't
yet have an AutoSmart, what are you waiting for??
National Locksmith
Automobile Association™
Publisher
Marc Goldberg
Director
Tom Seroogy
Printed in U.S.A.
NLAA, a division of
National Publishing Co.
Publishers of
THE NATIONAL LOCKSMITH
1533 Burgundy Parkway
Streamwood, Illinois 60107
Phone 708-837-2044
Fax 708-837-1210
E-mail address: natllock@aol.com
If you have an electronic mail address, be sure to send me an
E Mail and give it to me. My E Mail address is natllock@aol.com.
When I receive your mail, I will put you on the list to receive
information and timely bulletins. You won't believe how much
good information you can get quicker if you register with us.
Not long ago I wrote in The National Locksmith about a locksmith
who had made illegal photo copies of the AutoSmart and had sold
them out of his car trunk. We did put a quick stop to that guy,
under threat of severe legal action. Moreover, I filed a grievance
with ALOA against this Maine based "gentleman," and he quickly
resigned from ALOA rather than defend himself.
Oh, want to hear the corker? This guy was also a member of the
NLAA! Isn't that just MURPHY's law? Notice that I said he was a
member of the NLAA.
Believe me, he won't be reading this copy of your association's
newsletter. I think his copy got lost in the mail.
Unsolicited manuscripts are
accepted, but must include
SASE.
© 1995 National Publishing Co.
All Rights Reserved
Summer 1995
Summer 1995
3
DIRECTOR’S
PAGE
Tom Seroogy
We're off and running and
things are looking pretty good.
In fact, at the end of this letter I
have some pretty exciting news
for all of our members. In the
meantime, I know many of you
have questions regarding the
NLAA. So, let me take this
column to answer a few of the
most common.
Q: Why do we have to wait until
after 1 p.m. to call for technical
assistance?
A: Quite simply, each issue of
the NLAA Bulletins and NLAA
Automotive Edge magazine
demands a large amount of time
to research and put together.
The morning hours are when
this is accomplished.
While only a couple of our
members have really made this
an issue, please realize that the
time I spend on the phone
during those morning hours is
taking away from the
organization as a whole.
It should also be stated that
being able to field questions not
only all day, but during the
evening and on weekends is a
goal we are working towards.
Thanks for your patience now!
Q: Can you give me a code by the
VIN of the car?
A: No. Not at this time. The
code/technical hotline is used
when you do not have the
information for a known code,
or you have questions regarding
4
Summer 1995
a code. With many codes
available through Roadside
Assistance Programs, trying to
offer a code-by-VIN service is
redundant and unnecessary.
Q: How come you don't know
anything about the ...?
A: As stated in the previous
newsletters: NLAA isn't us
knowing it all, it's all of us
knowing.
I try to keep track of the
majority of vehicles out on the
road. Unfortunately, having
both information and first hand
experience on all vehicles is
impossible. It's for this reason I
rely on some of the best in the
industry. Direct contacts with
All-Lock, Strattec, Auto-Security
Products, as well as other major
manufacturers of automotive
products and services are just a
few of the sources.
But then there's you. In fact,
the first question in our "What
The Heck" column is asking for
information on the Maserati
BiTurbo. This car has been in
the States for some time, yet
very little is known about
specific service procedures. So, I
pose this question to our
association members. Fill us in
on this vehicle, so all members
have access to this information.
(By the way, this information is
for members only!)
Plus, if you have questions
that haven't been answered, let's
give our membership a try.
Q: Does the NLAA cover
motorcycles?
A: Yes, actually, we're going to
try. The problem, however, is
that there doesn't seem to be
much motorcycle information
available, especially on the
newer most recent bikes.
In fact, the NLAA and The
National Locksmith are looking
for a writer who knows
motorcycles, semi-trucks,
and/or antique autos. If you do
either or both, give me a call
immediately!
And now for the news.
Technical Writers Tom Mazzone,
Michael Hyde and myself are
now on America Online and
ready to converse with our
NLAA members about their
“vehicular exploits and
experiences.” That's right, now
all NLAA members are invited
to contact any one or all three of
us, personally, at home, via
AOL. While we may not be able
to respond immediately, we will
accept your technical queries,
code questions, etc. and answer
them as time permits.
Addresses are as follows:
Tom Seroogy AOL-SABERTEC2
Internet–sabertec2@AOL.COM
Tom Mazzone AOL-SABERTEC
Internet–sabertec@AOL.COM
Michael Hyde AOL-LOCK
PHD
Internet–lockphd@AOL.COM
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National Locksmith Automobile Association
Beginning The Ford 5-Pin
Here's your first lesson in the standard Ford 5-Pin system,
used since the late 1960s.
By Tom Seroogy
F
or the beginner, the Ford 5Pin lock is probably one of
the easiest locks on which to
work. This lock system started
in the late 1960s (approximately
1967) and has enjoyed a long
and successful employment
into virtually every American
Ford automobile until the mid1980s, when their 10-Cut
system was introduced.
All locks, except the glove
box, have remained pin
tumbler, using five spaces and a
double sided courtesy key. (A
true double sided key has cuts
on each side of the key that are
used in a lock. A courtesy key is
cut the same on both sides, but
only one side of the key is used
in the lock.) With the Mustang
as an exception, the Ignition
and Door Locks used the same
key, and the glove box and the
trunk used the same key until
about 1980. After that time, the
ignition used the primary key
by itself, while the doors, glove
box and trunk were put onto
the secondary key. When
picking or servicing these units,
the pin tumblers for the ignition
come up from the bottom, while
the rest of the locks have the
tumblers coming down from
the top. This is especially
important
when impressioning.
Code series
and keys for
these locks
are as follows:
Primary - FA 0
to 1863 using
the Curtis H51
or Ilco 1167FD
key blank.
Secondary FB 0 to 1863
using the Curtis
H50 or Ilco
S1167FD key
blank. Bitting
for the FA and
FB series codes
are identical
and
only
i n d i c a t e
whether
it
applies to the
primary or
secondary key
for that vehicle.
G e n e r a l l y,
up until the
late 1970’s the
secondary
code could
be found on
the glove box
lock casing.
LOCK RETAINER
1. While in many Ford columns it is necessary to
tear down the column or remove the column shroud
to gain access to the retaining pin, many trucks and
vans allow easy access outside the column.
Summer 1995
5
Primary codes were not found
on any lock on the vehicle.
Common service problems for
these locks include corroded
lock tumblers and compressed
springs in the door. Common to
the Ford 5 pin ignitions is
having the buzzer activator
switch break and fall inside the
keyway. The buzzer switch is
attached to the side of the lock,
located at the top of the keyway
and contacts the key when the
key is inserted. After repeated
key insertions, the contact area
of the switch wears, breaks and
falls into the lock's keyway.
When the owner inserts a key,
the broken piece is pushed back
and jammed into the lock. This
prevents the key from fully
seating, thus preventing the
lock from turning. If caught
early enough, this piece can
often be extracted and the lock
continued to be used, although
the buzzer activator is no longer
operable.
Up until about 1980 or 1981,
the door panels had to be
removed in order to remove the
horseshoe clips that held the
door lock in place. On later
versions of the car line, the door
clip was accessible from the
outside edge of the car door,
making
removal
and
replacement a real dream.
The ignition lock is held into
the housing by a pin retainer. To
depress the pin, the lock must
be in the ON position. Because
the retainer is not spring
loaded, it will stay depressed
until the ignition is turned
passed the ON position or to
the OFF position.
Key Generation
The Ford 5-pin lock is fairly
6
Summer 1995
simple to impression. For
most locksmiths, this is
probably the
first method to
attempt.
If impressioning does
not work, or
is not your
strong point,
try these alternate methods:
For models
where the ignition and door
are on the
primary key,
remove and
disassemble
the door lock.
The secondary
key can be
made by picking, removing
and disassembling the trunk
lock.
On
later
model Fords,
where only
the ignition
is on the
primary key,
the lock will
have to be
picked for
disassembly
or drilled and
replaced.
If picking,
remember that
the tumblers
are located at
the bottom of
the keyway.
Both tryout
keys and rocker
picks have
2. Use a key or pick the lock to the ON position and
depress the retaining pin.
NO BUZZER
SWITCH
3. Pull the lock out of the column. You will notice
that this lock does not have the customary buzzer
switch attached to its top. While this occurs on
some trucks, in most instances it means that the
lock has been previously removed.
shown themselves effective for
turning this lock.
Because care must be taken
when drilling, we will cover
ignition removal without a key
in our next issue.
To produce a door key in later
model Fords, either remove the
glove box lock to retrieve three
of the five cuts, then
progression or impression the
two remaining cuts. If
impressioning, generally the
trunk lock yields better marks.
If a glove box is not available
or it is not feasible to work on,
remove and disassemble the
door lock.
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4. Further inspection of the column reveals that someone has been here
before. Seen is the sector gear that drives the ignition rack and switch
rod. A cover plate and snap ring that prevent this piece from being
removed is missing. Should this piece come out and the rack moved,
it is necessary to re-time the gear and the rack.
RETAINER
TUMBLER AND
SPRING CAP
Do you have an E-mail address?
Send it to us!
AOL: NATL LOCK
Internet: natllock@aol.com
5. The removed lock with the retaining button extended. Also visible is
the tumbler and spring cap.
Summer 1995
7
Standard Auto Service
GM's Non-Tilt Square Column
Lack of exposure and hands-on experience continues to make
this column a problem.
By Tom Mazzone
D
espite having been around
since 1988, I constantly
receive requests for service
procedures on GM Square
Column vehicles. These include
the 1988 to 1993 L and W body
vehicles; Chevrolet Corisica,
Lumina
and
Beretta,
Oldsmobile Cutlass, Pontiac
Grand Prix, and Buick Regal. I
believe this is because, that
despite the number of years this
column has been out, very few
locksmiths have had reason to
service it. Of course, this lack of
exposure
and
hands-on
experience continues to make
this column somewhat of a
problem.
1. The GM non-tilt
Square Column
from a Chevrolet
Corsica.
Two styles of the Square
column exist, tilt and non-tilt,
and both have separate and
very
distinct
service
procedures. In this article we
will cover the non-tilt version,
more commonly found on the
Chevrolet
Corsica.
(See
photograph 1.)
Unlike the typical GM
Saginaw Round style columns,
the steering shaft lock plate has
been eliminated and the
steering shaft lock function is
performed deeper inside the
upper bowl, beyond the
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Summer 1995
2. Looks can be deceiving. At this point it seems ignition lock removal is a
few steps away. However, there’s more to this column than meets the eye.
3. Pull the horn tower/canceling cam of the steering
shaft and place in a safe place.
locksmith’s normal area of
service. Despite all the
4. Use a T20 Torx driver to remove the shroud/turn
signal assembly mounting screw. Placing the turn
signal switch to the right turn position, makes access
to this screw a little easier.
differences,
with
some
experience, this column is
actually much
faster and easier
to service than
the round style
columns.
To start, the
steering wheel
must be removed
and is identical
to other GM
steering wheel
removals:
R e m o v e
h o r n p a d ,
remove shaft
nut retaining
ring, remove
steering shaft
nut, index steering shaft and
steering wheel,
use a wheel
puller to remove
steering wheel.
After the steering wheel is
removed, the
5. Remove the hazard switch button, the final obstacle
horn tower/
to upper shroud removal.
canceling cam and turn signal
switch are immediately visible.
(See photograph 2.) This is rather
deceptive at this point. All
appearances indicate that we
can simply remove the turn
signal switch assembly and
remove the ignition lock. Not
so.
Before further disassembly
can continue, the upper shroud
must be removed. At first
glance, there is little to indicate
how this piece is held in place.
Begin by removing the horn
tower/canceling cam. (See
photograph 3.)
Then, using a T20 Torx driver,
remove the upper shroud/turn
signal
switch
assembly
mounting screw, found at the
upper right hand portion of the
turn signal switch assembly.
(See photograph 4.) Now, if
you’ve read this carefully, you’ll
notice that this screw was
referred to as the upper shroud
mounting screw. Once the
screw is removed, visible is a
mounting tab used by the
Summer 1995
9
6. Gently pry the upper shroud off and around the
steering shaft and turn signal lever.
7. Remove the turn signal/dimmer switch lever by
using a T20 Torx driver to remove its mounting screw.
8. Now the turn signal switch can be removed. Use a
T20 Torx driver to remove the last two screws holding
it in place.
shroud to fasten and secure it to
the column. Outside of the
steering wheel and the hazard
switch, the screw is the only
piece preventing the removal of
the upper shroud.
To remove the final obstacle
for shroud removal, use a #1
Phillips screw driver to remove
the hazard switch button, found
on the lower, right hand side of
the column. (See photograph 5.)
With the button removed,
gently pull up on the upper
10
Summer 1995
shroud. While it
may seem that
there are other
f a s t e n e r s
holding this unit
in place, it is
9. This is where I get most of my calls; The locksmith
simply just very gets to this point, doesn’t see any way to access and
snug.
remove the ignition retaining screw and then wonders
- “Now what?!”
If necessary,
use a small
straight blade screw driver to
pry the piece up and loosen it
from the rest of the column. Be
careful to prevent marring the
shroud and column. Then lift
the shroud out and over the
steering shaft and slide it off
over the turn signal lever. (See
11. Remove the three T30 Torx bolts that hold the
cover on.
10. Compress the upper bearing spring using the
Stramer tool. Use a seal pick, screw driver or probe
to pick up and remove the retaining ring.
photograph 6.)
Now use the T20 Torx driver
to remove the turn signal/
headlight dimmer switch lever
mounting screw. (See photograph
7.) The end of this lever is a
small ball that fits onto a
corresponding socket a little
deeper inside the upper
housing. When replacing this
piece, make sure that the ball
end is correctly positioned or
the light dimmer will not
operate.
At this point the turn signal
switch assembly can be
removed. Use the T20 Torx
driver to remove the final two
screws holding this piece on the
column. (See photograph 8.)
It is usually
here that most
locksmiths
begin to wane,
and wonder
what to do
next. All that is
seen is a large
black cover.
The only access
to the ignition
lock’s retaining
screw is from
the bottom
access area used
12. Slide the cover off the column and let it rest,
by the turn hanging on the turn signal switch assembly.
signal switch
assembly
solution to this dilemma is to
wiring harness. Even then, the
remove the upper housing
only thing that can be seen is
cover. (See photograph 9.)
the buzzer activator switch. The
To remove the cover, the
Summer 1995
11
BUZZER SWITCH
13. The buzzer activator switch is much different than
the typical GM switch and great care must be taken in
its removal.
14. Remove the ignition lock retaining screw and ...
15. Your done!
upper bearing preload spring
must be removed first. (Do not
try to remove the bearing and
race at this time. They are a part
12
Summer 1995
of the cover
and will be
removed when
the cover is
removed.)
While other
tools
and
methods may
work, I’ve found
the Stramer
tool from Kent
Moore works
quite well
with a little
patience and
practice.
Screw the tool
down over
the shaft to
compress the
spring. Keep
turning until
the retaining
ring can be
seen through
the side access
hole of the
tool. Then use
a seal pick,
small screw
driver or similar
tool to pick
up on the
retaining ring.
(See photograph
10.)
Wi t h t h e
retaining ring
out of its seat,
s l o w l y
unscrew the
Stramer tool,
making sure
that the retaining ring is
following the
tool. If it is
not, use your probe to help
move it up the shaft as the tool
is unscrewed. Remove the
retaining ring, spring and
Stramer tool from the shaft.
Next, remove the three T30
Torx bolts that hold the cover
on. (See photograph 11.) Gently
pull up on the cover, rocking a
little if necessary, to loosen it
from the steering shaft. Once
free, let the cover slide down
and over the turn signal switch
wire harness and hang from the
turn signal switch assembly.
(See photograph 12.)
There! We now have access to
the buzzer activator switch and
ignition lock retaining screw.
Unlike the Standard Round
Column, the buzzer activator
switch in the Square Column is
connected to a wire loom that
goes down into the column, and
cannot be removed from the
column.
To remove the switch, gently
grab with a hemostat or needle
nose pliers and pull straight
out. Grab the plastic portion of
the switch and not the wiring!
Make sure that a key or blank is
not in the ignition lock, as this
will lock the buzzer switch in
place. Once removed, let it
hang. (See photograph 13.)
Using a T20 Torx driver the
ignition lock retaining screw
can now be removed. (See
photograph 14.) And the ignition
removed. (See photograph 15.)
Reverse
procedure
to
reassemble.
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High Security
Auto Service
Mercedes Overview: Chassis 201 and 202
Michael Hyde begins our journey into the world of Mercedes.
By Michael Hyde
T
his issue of the NLAA we
start a series of MercedesBenz articles that will be an
overview of the Mercedes
locking systems that you may
run across at one time or
another. Mercedes dealers will
usually describe the cars by
chassis numbers instead of the
exact model. Later in the series
we will give you a chart to help
you determine the model you
have by the chassis number and
locking system it should be
using. Because of variations in
Mercedes locking systems it can
be difficult at times to be exact
on every model and chassis.
car has a factory alarm the key
will have 13 cuts on each track.
If it does not, the key will have
10 cuts on it. Either way the
ignition will accept both types
of keys, since the ignition has
cuts 1 through 10 in it.
To remove the key cylinder
MERCEDES 201 CHASSIS
One of the terms Mercedes
dealers use is "workshop
edition." This means that the
lock is not coded to the
particular car your working on,
but to a randomly coded key.
1. Ignition typical of the 1990 to 1993 201 Chassis Mercedes.
MERCEDES CHASSIS 201
We start out with the
Mercedes model 190E, Chassis
201.
Key Blanks: Alarm Version - Silca HU55P, Ilco S34YSP
Non-Alarm Version - Silca HU41P, Ilco S59HFP
MACS: 2
Chassis 201 Ignition Locks
Tumbler
X X X
X X
1 2 3
This Mercedes uses two
different types of ignitions,
depending on the year of the
car. The one pictured in
photograph one is for a 1990 to
1993 model. It uses a Two-Track
High Security Keyway. If the
Positions
X X X
X X X
4 5 6
For
X
X
7
Alarm
X X
X X
8 9
Version
X
Ignition, Trunk
X X X X Doors
10 11 12 13 Spacing (Bow To Tip)
Tumbler Positions For NonAlarm Version
X X X X X X X X X X
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Ignition, Doors, Trunk
Spacing (Bow To Tip)
Summer 1995
13
2. Inserting the wire for removing the bezel and
ignition cylinder.
3. The ignition cylinder removed from the housing.
4. The older ignition housing is on the right. The newer
version on the left has been beefed up to increase its
security.
5. There is also a difference in the bezels. The
newer one is on the left.
6. The hardened face cap is held to the plug by a roll pin.
Instead of trying to remove the pin and plug, simply place
a workshop cylinder in the vehicle and order the keyed
version from the dealer.
7. If the face cap is removed, the plug comes out
from the back of the cylinder.
from the ignition housing you
must have a working key. Insert
the working key and rotate it to
the first position or the
ACCESSORY position. Insert a
double ended wire through the
14
Summer 1995
face of the lock and down into
the housing where it will
depress the cylinder retainer
spring and the locking lugs in
the housing.(See photograph 2.) It
may be necessary to wiggle it
around a little to make sure it
fully engages the locking lugs.
It will also help to file the tips of
the wire inward to better
engage the locking lugs. Pull
outward on the key, the
8. The ignition contains tumblers for positions 1
through 10.
10. The alarm version door lock. Knock out
the two roll pins to begin disassembly.
cylinder and steel bezel should
release. (See photograph 3.)
In photograph four the 1984
to 1989 version of the ignition
housing is pictured on the right,
next to the newer version, on
the left. You can see that the
newer version has been beefed
up with more metal to enhance
its anti-theft capabilities. There
is also a difference in the steel
bezels that secure the cylinders.
(See photograph 5.)
The ignition cylinder face cap
secures the plug into the
housing. There is a tension pin
that goes through the face cap
9. The lever on the left is the buzzer switch lever.
When the key is inserted into the lock, the lever
rotates slightly, activating the buzzer.
11. Separate the front from the back portion of the lock.
Remember to insert a key to keep the wafer tumblers from flying
out of the plug.
and into the plug. It is almost
impossible to remove the
tension pin from the face cap.
The problem is that when you
try and take it apart, the plug
will usually shear. The plug is
made of pot metal and the face
cap is made of hardened steel.
Something has to give way. It is
best to use a workshop edition
to temporally replace the
cylinder and replace the
workshop edition with a coded
one for the car, from the dealer.
Standard turn around time is
two weeks. (See photograph 6.)
With the face cap removed,
the plug comes out the rear of
the cylinder as
photograph seven.
seen
in
The plug contains 10
tumblers, in positions 1 through
10. (See photograph 8.) The
cylinder also has a key buzzer
lever , that when the key is
inserted, the lever will rotate
slightly to activate the buzzer.
(See photograph 9.)
Chassis 201 Door Locks
The door locks are secured to
the car by a 4mm Allen head set
screw on the edge of the door.
To remove the lock from the car,
first remove the set screw and,
if equipped, disconnect the
Summer 1995
15
alarm contacts
found behind a
large plastic cap
right above the
set screw.
To remove the
cylinder, insert
the working key
and rotate the
key and gently
remove
the
c y l i n d e r. T h i s
will take a little
pulling, back and
forth as the
cylinder is held
tightly in place
with the handle
a s s e m b l y.
In order to remove the plug from the shell, the plug must be turned. To do this without a
Remember
to 12.
working key, shim the lock from the back.
take your time
and be gentle
type. (See photograph 10.) To
depths. Use Silca key blank
with the removal of the
disassemble
it
you
will
need
to
number HU55P for or Ilco
cylinder. The tailpiece of the
remove
the
two
large
tension
S34YS. Insert the prepped key.
door cylinder has a wing tip on
pins. Use a pin punch to knock
Separate the forward section of
it that fits into a plastic cam that
them
through.
Separate
the
the housing from the rear
works with the latching
forward
section
of
the
housing
section. (See photograph 11.)
assembly. Because of the
from the rear section. Insert the
opening in the cam, the wing
While the prepped key is in
working
key
and
rotate
the
plug
tip of the tailpiece is interlocked
the lock, you will need to bring
until it lines up with the ward
into the cam. That is why it is
the rest of the wafers to the
in housing, allowing the plug to
necessary to rotate the cylinder
shear line in order to rotate the
slide out the front.
with the key in order to remove
plug to line up with the ward in
the door cylinder.
If you do not have a working
the housing, to allow the plug
key, then you will need a key
to slide out the front of the lock.
There are two types of door
with
13
cuts
on
it
and
all
the
I use lock pick tension tools to
locks. One with alarm and one
cuts
made
to
be
number
5
slide down the tumbler
without. The first is the alarm
13. The alarm model door lock contains tumblers in
positions 2 through 13.
16
Summer 1995
14. The door locks to the non-alarmed model.
15. After
marking all the
parts for
position, knock
out the roll pin
that holds the
tailpiece to the
plug.
16. The door
lock plug of the
non-alarmed
model contains
all 10 cuts for
the key.
purposes. There is also a small
rubber piece that sits on the end
of the tailpiece. (See photograph
15.)
Insert a working key and
rotate the plug until it lines up
with the ward in the housing
and then slide the plug out. The
door cylinder plug contains all
10 tumblers for a complete key
on a non-alarm chassis 201. (See
photograph 16.)
key, the only way to get the
plug out is to mill or Dremel an
area on each side of the cylinder
housing, where the tumbler
chambers are, so as to
manipulate the tumblers to the
shear line. I do not recommend
this as there is no way to
restore the cylinder to its
original condition. The cylinder
can be purchased from Auto
Security Products, Part # D-21104 (left side), and D-21-103
(right side). Average selling
price is $39.95. The cylinder
disassembled is shown in
photograph 17.
Chassis 201 Trunk Lock
17. The disassembled non-alarm door lock.
chambers and depress the
tumblers to the shear line. There
is a technique to doing this. It
will take patience and practice
to become efficient. (See
photograph 12.)
The alarm model door plug
contains 12 tumblers, in
positions 2 through 13. (See
photograph 13.)
The other door lock is the
non-alarm model, as seen in
photograph 14.
Remove the tension pin in the
tailpiece by knocking it out with
a pin punch. Remove the
tailpiece and don't forget to
mark the piece, for re-assembly
The trunk lock is secured to
the car by two 8mm bolts.
Mercedes uses two different
types of trunk locks on this
chassis. This chassis trunk lock
is a combination of the lock
cylinder and the latch all in one
unit. The only difference is in
the way the tailpiece connects
to the lock unit. The first one,
the tailpiece is attach by a screw
directly into the cam on the
back of the lock. The second
one, the metal part of the
tailpiece end is widened so it
cannot be removed without
breaking the cam on the lock.
You need to remove it at the
cam or disconnect the tailpiece
Summer 1995
17
where it connects with the car's
vacuum locking system. (See
photograph 18.)
To disassemble the lock
cylinder from the latch part of
the unit, remove the 'E' clip on
the back of the lock and remove
the cam unit. Be sure to mark all
the pieces for re-assembly
purposes. Next, unsnap the
front trim piece that encircles
the front of the cylinder. The
unit is under spring pressure, so
be careful. (See photograph 19.)
Now that you have removed
18. The trunk lock on this chassis serves as both lock and latch. Here you can see both sides of our lock.
UNSNAP
19. After removing the snap ring, carefully pull off the front trim piece of the lock. It is spring loaded, careful!
BALL BEARING
20. Insert a working key and turn the plug to
remove. Be careful as a detent ball bearing and
spring are armed and dangerous.
18
Summer 1995
21. The trunk lock contains tumblers in positions 1
through 10 for both the alarmed and non-alarmed model.
22. The totally disassembled trunk lock.
23. The new Mercedes C-Class, 202 Chassis with a
completely revamped ignition design.
24. Use a working key to turn the plug to ACCESSORY,
turn the bezel counter-clockwise 90 degrees and pull
the lock out.
25. The detent in the housing can be seen here.
the cylinder, insert a working
key and rotate the plug to
remove it. Watch out for the
detent ball bearing and spring
that could fly out of the
cylinder. (See photograph 20.)
The tumbler kit for this car is
ASP #A-21-102.
The trunk cylinder plug
contains 10 tumblers in
positions 1 through 10, whether
the car is equipped with a
factory alarm or not. (See
photograph 21.)
The car uses a Two-Track
High Security 10 Cut Key.
The
lock
completely
disassembled is pictured in
photograph 22. The lock cannot
be taken apart without a
working key, because of the
ward in the lock cylinder
housing.
CHASSIS 202 –
NEW MERCEDES C-CLASS,
1994 AND UP
Chassis 202 Ignition Lock
This is a whole new locking
system for Mercedes. It
incorporates new features never
used before. The ignition
cylinder does not have a
secondary housing, meaning
that the cylinder plug goes
directly into the ignition lock
MERCEDES CHASSIS 202
Key Blank: Silca HU64P
MACS: 2
Tumbler Positions
X X X X X X X X X X
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Ignition, Doors, Trunk
Spacing (Bow To Tip)
Summer 1995
19
26. The
ignition plug
contains 10
new style
tumblers.
housing itself. The ignition lock
assembly is pictured in
photograph 23. To remove the
cylinder, insert the working key
and rotate the plug to the first
position (or ACCESSORY
position) and then rotate the
black steel bezel counterclockwise about 90 degrees
until it slides out of its detent.
Gently pull outward on the key
and the cylinder plug along
with the steel bezel will slide off
the ignition housing unit. (See
photograph 24.)
Photograph 25 shows the
detent in the housing. The
cylinder plug contains 10
tumblers. These tumblers are a
new type and are different than
the tumblers in the doors and
trunk. The tumblers have a
notch in them to lock them into
the plug, because there is no
secondary housing for them.
The plug and tumblers are
pictured in photograph 26. The
tumbler kits are not currently
available.
Chassis 202 Door Lock
The door cylinder does not
have an alarm switch on it
because the alarm function is
now controlled through the
latch assembly. It is secured to
the car door by utilizing a 4mm
Allen head bolt through the
weather-stripping cavity on the
edge of the door to the lock
housing itself. (See photograph
27.)
To remove the cylinder plug
from the housing, remove the
tension pin that secures the
tailpiece and then insert the
working key and rotate it until
the plug slides out. (See
photograph 28.) The door
cylinder plug contains all ten
tumblers needed for a complete
key. (See photograph 29.)
27. The new lock is secured to the car door by a
4mm Allen head bolt that is accessed through the
weather-strip cavity.
20
Summer 1995
key, the only way to get the
plug out is to mill or Dremel an
area on each side of the cylinder
housing, where the tumbler
chambers are, so as to
manipulate the tumblers to the
shear line. I do not recommend
this as there is no way to restore
the cylinder to its original
condition. The cylinder can be
purchased only from the dealer,
average cost is $45. The tumbler
kits are not currently available.
Chassis 202 Trunk Lock
The trunk lock housing
contains the key cylinder, alarm
28. To remove the plug, start by removing the roll pin that
holds the tailpiece to the plug.
29. The door lock contains
all 10 tumblers needed for a
complete key.
30. The trunk lock of the 202 Chassis.
micro-switches and the vacuum
locking systems switches. The
assembly is pictured in
photograph 30. Before you start,
remember you to mark all the
pieces you take apart for reassembly purposes.
31. Plug removal starts with the back of the lock and
removal of the snap ring.
used in the trunk cylinder. The
lock cannot be taken apart
without a working key, because
of the ward in the lock cylinder
housing. The tumbler kits are
not currently available.
To remove the key cylinder
plug, remove the E-clip on the
back of the lock. Next remove
the two plastic cam pieces.
Remove the keeper ring that
holds the metal cam assembly
in place. Remove the metal cam
assembly. (See photograph 31.)
Insert the working key and
rotate until the cylinder plug
slides out the front of the unit.
The trunk plug also contains
all ten tumblers. The same
tumblers used in the doors are
32. Turn the key and the plug will come out.
Summer 1995
21
Those Shameless Shearhead Bolts
Designed for security, these little guys can pose
the locksmith some real problems.
By Tom Seroogy
S
ince the arrival of our first
foreign vehicle, locksmiths
have been plagued with trying
to remove the shearhead bolt.
Designed as a security feature,
the shearhead bolt is just that, a
bolt whose head shears or
breaks off at a specified torque.
Without a head to turn the bolt,
would-be thieves cannot easily
remove and bypass the ignition
lock. Of course, this also means
that the locksmith and
mechanic cannot easily remove
and service the lock either. So,
following, we will spend a little
time discussing some of the
methods used to remove these
bolts. (See photograph 1.)
Before proceeding, it should
be stated that in many cases, the
bolts are very hard to get to,
often lying just beneath the
instrument panel. It should be
accepted that in these cases the
column will have to be dropped
to gain access to the bolts.
within the top clamp. (See
photograph 2.)
To remove the bolts, take a
scratch awl or pointed punch
and tap a deep index mark as
close to the outside edge of the
1. The
shearhead
bolt is used
to make
vehicle theft
by ignition
removal a
little
tougher.
Here is a
shot of two
bolts before
and after
shearing.
2. Using a
scratch awl
to tap and
reverse the
bolt out.
Method 1 - Tap And Reverse
Probably the fastest and most
commonly used method is
tapping and reversing the bolt
out using a scratch awl or
punch. This is especially
effective on bolts that are not
countersunk or shielded deeply
22
Summer 1995
bolt head as possible. This
creates a good seat for the
punch,
allowing
it
to
adequately grab the bolt for
turning.
With the bolt marked, place
the tip of the punch in the index
mark and lean it back as far as
possible, in a line not quite
tangent to the circumference of
the bolt head. Gently start to tap
in the direction the bolt
unscrews. Make sure the
direction of the punch follows
the index mark as the bolt turns.
If the index mark rotates to a
position where a good striking
angle is not possible, make
another index mark on the head
of the bolt and continue striking
and turning the bolt from there.
When the bolt is loose enough,
simply placing the punch tip in
an index mark and turning will
remove the bolt. Remove the
other bolt(s) using the same
method.
In some instances you will
find that one bolt removes quite
easily, while the other(s) won't
budge. To help remove it, try
tightening all other screws first.
This will alleviate any excess
pressure on the stubborn bolt
and make removal a bit easier.
Method 2 - Slot And Reverse
This method only works well
on those bolts that are not
guarded deep inside the upper
clamp, or hidden by other parts
of the column. In other words, it
works well on exposed bolts.
The first part of removing the
bolt requires either a Dremel
tool with cutting blade (the
preferred tool) or a hacksaw
blade. Use the tool to cut a slot
across the top of the bolt, wide
enough to accept a straight
blade screw driver.
Then use a large
screw driver to remove.
Method 3 Easy Outs
Commonly called
Easy Outs or Reverse
Outs, these tools are
similar to reverse fluted
drill bits. To use, simple
drill a hole down the
center of the bolt being
extracted, per the size
of the Easy Out being
used. Once the hole is
drilled, screw the tool
into the hole, applying
constant, steady turning
pressure. The reverse
threading of the tool
will bite into the bolt
until the bolt eventually 3. Using Easy Outs to reverse the bolt out.
breaks free. Great care
the bolt. Repeat for the rest of
must be taken not to over exert
the bolts.
the tool or to turn it quickly or
sharply. This will cause the tool
To make this drilling easier, I
to snap off in the bolt, making
recommend using the Bullet
removal even harder. (See
Point bits by Black & Decker.
photograph 3.)
The small pilot point keeps the
drill centered and avoids
A variation of this method is
slipping off of the head of the
as follows: Once the hole is
bolt. The larger, flat cutting area
drilled into the bolt, pound a
helps cut the head away from
Torx driver or other style driver
the rest of the bolt without
bit down into the hole. Then
damaging the upper clamp.
unscrew the bolt. While this
method is not recommended
Once the lock has been
(use the right tool for the right
removed, the rest of the bolt can
job, fellas) it often works in a
be removed from the lock body
pinch.
using a pliers or vice grip.
Method 4 - Drill
Bolt Replacement
In most cases, drilling the bolt
heads off is the manufacturers
method for removing these
types of ignitions.
In all instances except drilling,
save the bolts for reinstallation.
To reinstall, use a Dremel tool
with cutter or a hacksaw to cut
a slot in the top of the bolt. Use
a large straight blade screw
driver to replace the bolts.
To drill, choose a bit that is
larger in diameter than the bolt.
Center and drill straight down
on top of the head of the bolt
until it is free from the rest of
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Summer 1995
23
Weapons And Ammo - Part 1
We've identified the beast, we know its habits and environment,
now we need weapons and ammo!
By Tom Seroogy
T
hus far, in our pursuit for
the gold, we’ve identified
the Dealer as our quarry. As the
hunter, we’ve discussed the
nature and environment of our
prey: How they operate, what
aspects of their business makes
them vulnerable to our pursuit,
etc. But before we head out on
the hunt, let’s talk weapons and
ammunition. Needless to say it
would be foolish for any hunter
to chase down big game
without having the equipment
or tools (or weapon, as it may
be) necessary to take home the
trophy. Again, we want their
head on our wall. If we aren’t
prepared we may become the
trophy.
In general, there are three
pieces of weaponry that are
going to help us bag our game:
Price, expediency and building
relationships. In this issue we’ll
cover pricing.
As we found earlier, the
Dealer world is very “deal”
conscious. Yet your pricing is
going to have to reflect more
than just the cost of making
keys for cars.
While there are those that will
argue, my dealers were on a
totally different price structure
24
Summer 1995
than standard or retail work.
The difference in pricing was
justified by the volume. In any
given
month
I
knew
approximately how many
dealer calls I would receive.
Based on this quantity, the local
competition, and my cost for
doing dealer business, I
established a fair “dealer
discount” that was offered to all
dealers, big and small. Granted,
some dealers used me
frequently, and others not so
frequently. However, the
pricing
was
based
on
amortizing the cost of all the
dealer work I performed.
The lower price, of course,
helped me land more dealer
accounts. The more dealer
accounts I had, the easier it was
to justify lower the price.
When establishing a price,
included must be provisions for
the “free” work that’s done
once in a while: i.e. car
openings while you’re on the
lot, duplicating a few keys, etc.
How much free work you can
offer is going to be dependent
on your business, but it does
need to be factored in. It’s just
simply a matter of how (or if)
you can justify the cost.
For example, the “free” work I
offered was recouped through
one of two ways - volume calls
by that dealer (five or more cars
per month), or, simply, a higher
cost on ancillary services that I
provided.
One of the major misconceptions that locksmiths have when
determining price is that of
competency-versus-price. We
tend to view competency and
price as a direct relationship the higher the competency, the
higher the price I warrant; the
lower the competency, the
lower the price. Many use this
as an excuse for not lowering
their price when competition
solicits their customers.
Unfortunately, working on
this basis is self defeating. The
logical conclusion in this type of
reasoning is that the competent
will price themselves right out
of work.
I believe that competency
should actually hold an inverse
relationship to price. The higher
the competence, the lower the
cost; and, the lower the
competency, the higher the cost.
Here’s the reasoning.
(See page 26)
QUESTION:
Where are the codes on a
1993 Ford Tracer? How do
you make keys for it?
Travis Alford,
Weatherford Locksmith
Service,
Texas, #0769.
ANSWER:
Sorry to say, Travis, that
the 1993 Ford Tracer does
not have codes placed
anywhere on the vehicle.
Identical to the 1993
Escort, this car uses a
variation of the Ford 10-Cut
system. None of the locks
have tumblers in the first
three spaces or cuts of the
key (bow to tip). From the
door and/or trunk lock you
can retrieve cuts 4 through
8. The ignition uses cuts 5
through 10. After cutting a
key to fit the door,
progression cuts 9 and 10
in the ignition.
QUESTION:
While not a common
vehicle, I received two
separate
calls
for
information on the Maserati
BiTurbo. (Probably two
different shops bidding on
the same car?!) At this
point, information is hard
to come by, so I'll let you
have what I've got.
ANSWER:
The latest production
date that I show for this
vehicle is around 1990.
The ignition uses the X157
key blank and RO1001 to
2000
series
codes.
Contradictory information
on ignition code location
exists, one source states the
code is not stamped or
located anywhere, another
source states the code is
located on or around the
ignition lock.
The ignition lock has
wafer tumblers and is
identical to that which is
used by the Rover during
the early and mid-1980s.
The rather unique
structure of this lock
requires that the whole
assembly be removed from
the bottom of the lock
housing. Four staked areas
at the bottom of the
housing, hold the lock
contents in place. Once the
staked areas have been
removed, the components
can be lowered for service.
The door and trunk lock
use the X64, X78, and X79
key blank; and code series
1100 to 1759, 3100 to
3759 and 5100 to 5759.
The
recommended
method for key generation
is impressioning.
If any of our NLAA
members have more or
different information to
offer on this vehicle, please
send it in. A relatively
thorough coverage of the
ignition lock disassembly
can be found in the Lynn
Hawkins "European Auto
Lock Service Manual,"
available through The
National Locksmith.
QUESTION:
Another unusual car that
more than one member had
questions on is procedures
for removing the ignition
on 85 Merkur XR4Ti.
ANSWER:
Much easier than the
BiTurbo mentioned above,
the ignition lock on the
XR4Ti is very similar to the
older Capri ignitions and
the newer Ford Contour
ignition.
Because this vehicle is a
one key car using the FC7,
X86 key blank and TX1 to
1859 codes, a key can be
made for the whole car
through the door lock. In
the case of one member,
however, the ignition had
apparently been replaced
and used a separate key. If
this is the case, try the
following:
The most expedient
method for making a key to
this ignition is through
impressioning.
If that does not work the
cylinder may have to be
removed. There are two
retaining methods on this
lock cylinder: A spring steel
retainer, similar to the VW
lock, and a large snap ring
on the back of the plug that
is keyed into the lock
housing. Pick the lock to
the ON or RUN position and
depress the spring retainer.
The snap ring should be
lined up with a broaching,
allowing lock removal.
If picking doesn't work,
then drilling is the only
other alternative.
From our NLAA
Covert Operations Team
we have these reports:
• The 1996 Ford Taurus
will be using a new
electronic key system.
Initial reports on this system
have called it PATS (Passive
Anti-Theft System), and has
been in testing in the U.K.
on the Ford Europe vehicles
for several years now.
The system is an
integration of highly
sophisticated electronic
encoding
and
RF
technology, developed by
Texas Instruments (you
know, the calculator
people), and a standard
mechanical lock. We'll
reveal a little more on this
technology
and
its
application on the Taurus
as more is available.
• Keeping up with Ford is
GM. Many of you may
have seen the new
VTD/Passlock
system
article in the June 1995
issue of The National
Locksmith. This system is
being introduced on the
1996 Cavalier Z24 and
Sunfire GT. Simpler than
the previous VATS system,
the new lock will integrate
a magnet as part of the plug
and a Hall-Affect sensor as
Summer 1995
25
part of the shell or housing.
When
turned,
the
instrument cluster (Smart
Cluster) looks for a proper
resistance value, "signature"
and timing to determine if
the correct key is being
used. If incorrect the fuel
injection system is shut
down, and the vehicle is
not allowed to start. Initial
release of this unit shows it
should have only minor
effects on the locksmith's
ability to generate keys or
replace ignition locks.
We'll give the close and up
front encounter as soon as
these cars are released!
• A common problem on
the GM Saginaw Round
and Tilt style columns is
broken and/or missing turn
signal switch return springs.
These springs help the
switch return to the neutral
or off position once a turn
has been complete. And,
unfortunately, after tearing
a column down, we often
find that one or both of
these springs is broken or
missing.
Generally, customers
already realize that a
problem exists with the turn
signal not returning.
However, there are a few
who insist that it was your
fault that the turn signal
does not now turn off after
a turn.
Well, we have the fix for
you. Having been available
Dealing With Dealers
(From page 24)
Pricing should reflect your
established hourly rate plus
parts. (The hourly rate should
be a reflection of what it costs to
do business, including nonchargeable time, plus your
desired profit.) Locksmiths with
store locations and employees
will typically have a higher
hourly rate to cover the overhead
that they have established. Oneman operations operating from
the home typically have lower
overhead and can offer a lower
hourly rate.
Competency pays off in two
ways. First, the competent can
generally “produce” more than
the less competent. For
example, I was able to offer
dealer pricing based on the time
it took me to do the average car.
This average included all
vehicles, from GMs, to Fords, to
26
Summer 1995
for years, these little springs
can be purchased from
many GM dealer parts
counters! Unfortunately,
because even many dealers
don't know they are
available, you may have to
convince the parts guy that
they really do exist. Here
are the numbers: Left #1964785,
Right
#1964784.
• Finally, a bulletin to all
Isuzu dealers informs us of
the following theft problem.
The new $35,000 Isuzu
Montero truck comes with
a full set of tumblers in all
the locks, including the gas
cover lock. Apparently this
is well known to auto theft
rings who make their
Mazdas, to etc. The average
time for me to generate keys for
a car was 20 minutes (longer for
some, shorter for others), or
roughly three cars per hour. If
my hourly rate is $30, the
average cost per car is only $10.
Now, a less competent
locksmith will not be able to
generate keys for cars at that
rate. Even at 1-1/2 cars per
hour and an hourly rate of $30,
each car will cost that locksmith
approximately $20. In fact, in
order to meet a $10 per vehicle
cost, the less competent
locksmith must drop his per
hour rate by half, to $15.
The second way competency
pays off is by the type of work a
locksmith can handle. The more
types of cars, locking and
keying systems a locksmith
knows, the more he can offer
his dealer! Remember, a dealer
does not have time to be
bothered with finding somebody
rounds on dealer lots,
exchange the working gas
cover lock with a
replacement, and take the
original lock to a locksmith
to have keys made for the
vehicle. Needless to say the
truck is long gone before
the dealer has suspected
anything.
As a note: The dealer
offering us this information
toured his lot right after he
received the bulletin and
found three of his Monteros
with changed locks.
Any locksmith experiencing such activity should try
and verify identification
and vehicle ownership. If
suspect, call the police!
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new every time he needs
service for a vehicle. If his
current locksmith cannot handle
the newer or high security lock
systems, he’ll more than likely
go with one that can.
In fact, after starting high
security auto work (work that
locksmiths in my area could not
offer), my dealer accounts
jumped by 10 percent in the
first year. This translated into an
additional 25 percent in that
year’s dealer income.
I guess if I had to explain the
correct relationship between
competency and what to charge
the customer, it should be this:
Your customer should pay for
the service your render.
Competency will pay you for
how well you render that
service.
Next time we’ll cover the
other two pieces of weaponry expedience and relationships!
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Those Amazing Force Tools
While we hate the idea,
sometimes force is the best way to accomplish a job.
By Tom Seroogy
F
orce tools. Most locksmiths
hate the words, hate the
concept. However, in as much
as I don't like the idea of
breaking or forcing a lock,
neither do I like spending more
time on a job than it's worth. So,
in this portion of Nuts & Bolts
we'll take a closer look at some
of the bypass and force tools
available.
Now I like to make a
distinction between bypass
tools and force tools. Bypass
tools, typically drills, eliminate
or remove the locking
mechanism in a controlled
manner. Force tools, on the
other hand, crush, shear or
otherwise destroy the locking
mechanism, and are harder to
control.
Before we cover the tools,
however, let's first consider the
locks we may want to use them
on. In recent history, a great
many tools have been made for
force turning or removing the
GM column lock. While
extracting a GM lock was useful
and helpful for the locksmith,
force turning the lock to start
the car is pretty much useless.
Today, after the introduction of
the bolt retained GM lock, even
1. The HPC ITF-14 drill guide for the Ford 10-Cut ignition.
extraction to a greater degree
has been eliminated.
While tools to both force turn
and extract GM ignitions are
still made, they are typically
made for the benefit of the
repossessor and not the
locksmith. Therefore, we will
cover those tools that will
further or speed up the work a
locksmith needs to accomplish.
Take the Ford ignition lock, for
example. Force turning and/or
extraction can be beneficial
because a new lock can be
easily replaced. Therefore, we
will cover tools that allow us to
accomplish either of these tasks.
We will cover bypass tools
first. Amazingly enough, all the
bypass tools I have are made for
the Ford ignition, so, let's take a
look.
Among the players are HPC's
ITF-14 Ford 10-Cut drill guide,
Aable Locksmiths' Drill Block
Ford 10-Cut drill guide, Lock
Summer 1995
27
2. Aable Locksmiths' Drill Block template for the Ford
10-Cut ignition.
Technology's #76 Ford 10-Cut
drill
guide
and
Aable
Locksmiths' Ford Disc-Out Kit.
To set up HPC's guide, take
an existing key and place it in
the guide, making sure that the
set screw is tight. (See photograph
1.) As there is no need to
remove the facecap, simply
place the key and guide into the
3. This guide by Lock Technologies is made for both
the winged and round facecap used by the Ford 10-Cut.
ignition. Then, using a 1/4"
drill, drill out the sidebar of the
lock. The guide has a hardened
steel bushing to protect itself
from the drill bit.
With the sidebar removed,
turn the ignition, depress the
retaining button and remove
the lock.
Aable's Drill Block is similar
in approach except that the
guide has its own key, does not
include a hardened steel
bushing and requires the
removal of the lock's facecap
before using the tool. (See
photograph 2.)
The drill guide by Lock
Technology operates on both
the standard winged 10-Cut
Ford ignitions, as well as the
domed or round facecap
ignitions found on the Taurus
and Sable. (See photograph 3.)
Also, roll pins instead of key
blanks are used to align the tool
on the face of the lock. The
guide does not have a hardened
bushing.
Like the other units, attach the
template, drill the sidebar and
remove the lock.
4. Aable Locksmiths' Disc-Out for removing the Ford 5-Pin ignition.
Aable's Disc-Out is for
removal of the Ford 5-Cut pin
tumbler ignition. (See photograph
4.) Most locksmiths familiar
with this ignition know that the
shearline is protected by a
hardened disc. The Disc-Out
allows you to remove the disc
and then shim the lock from the
28
Summer 1995
5. Aable's The Persuader allows the locksmith to force
turn the GM trunk lock.
front. After shimming, turn the
lock, depress the retaining
button and remove the lock.
Now let's look at the force
tools. In our lineup we have
Aable's The Persuader and
Quick-On, A-1 Security Mfg.'s
#GP1 G-Pull, Lock Technology's
#350A lock extractor kit and #78
Ford Sure-Shot.
6. The G-Pull by A-1 actually extracts the plug of the
GM trunk lock.
place The Persuader over the
key blade and seat on the lock
plug. Use a wrench to turn the
lock until the trunk opens.
Replace the lock.
plug. Seat the unit over the lock
and turn the large wing nut to
extract the plug. Once removed,
use a screw driver to open the
trunk and replace the lock.
Unlike The Persuader, the GPull is an extractor. (See
photograph 6.) After removing
the facecap and dust cover,
screw the G-Pull into the lock
The rest of the tools are used,
yes, again, on the Ford.
With slightly different
designs, Aable's Quick-On and
Lock Technology's Sure-Shot are
Because they attack the same
problem and the same lock, let's
look at Aable's The Persuader
and A-1's G-Pull first. Both of
these tools are used to open the
trunk
of
GM
that
is
experiencing trouble with a
popped retainer. As such, we
know that the lock is already
inoperable, and that forced
entry, provided it does not harm
the vehicle or locking
components, is feasible.
Aable's The Persuader is a
force tool designed to shear the
popped tumbler cap and/or the
sidebar of the GM trunk lock.
(See photograph 5.) After
removing the facecap and dust
cover, insert a correct key with
the bow removed into the lock,
7. Aable's Quick-On (left) and Lock Technology's Sure-Shot.
Summer 1995
29
used to force turn the Ford 10Cut ignition. To use, simply
remove the lock's facecap. Then
squarely and firmly pound
either tool over the face of the
lock. If using Aable's Quick-On,
make sure that the two turning
tabs have pierced the face of the
lock. Once properly seated, use
a 1/2" drive ratchet to turn the
ignition. (See photograph 7.)
Much caution should be taken
when using this tool. In fact, it
is recommended that the
battery be disconnected before
use. Because the sidebar is
being sheared or forced back
into the center of the plug, it is
very hard to turn back towards
the OFF position. Should it
become stuck in the START
position, the starter can become
damaged.
Lock Technology's #350
extractor is actually built to
extract a number of different
ignitions and locks. (See
photograph 8.) The one I find
most useful is for the Ford 5Cut. To use, remove the wings
from the face of the lock.
Remove the detent pins from
the lock and attach the #350's
30
Summer 1995
8. Lock Technology's #350 extractor works well on the Ford 5-Pin ignition
as well as many foreign ignition locks.
Ford ignition plate using the
sheet metal screws. Attach the
rest of the extractor and use a
wrench to remove the lock.
Replace with a new lock.
For the HPC ITF-14 contact an
HPC distributor or call
(708) 671-6280.
The #350 can also be used for
fast removal of foreign
ignitions. Simply extract the
plug of the lock and then
depress the lock retaining
button on the shell to remove
and replace the lock.
For A-1 Security Mfg. contact
an A-1 distributor or call
(804) 747-0095.
For Aable Locksmiths call
(718) 847-1377.
F o r L o c k Te c h n o l o g y, c a l l
(800) 421-7241, or inside Illinois
(708) 369-6060.
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FEATURE ARTICLE
1995 Chrysler LeBaron
(Continued from Front Cover)
Ignition
To remove the ignition, you
do not have to remove the
steering wheel or airbag.(See
photograph 3.)
It is necessary, however, to
first disconnect the battery.
Next remove the three T15 Torx
screws that hold the column
plastic clam shell shroud
together, then unsnap the
shroud halves and remove. To
remove the ignition cylinder on
this car you will have to remove
the ignition/electrical switch
assembly as one unit. The
reason you have to remove both
is because of Chrysler's new
anti-theft security plate.
Chrysler has replaced the active
2. Opening is a snap. Simply grab the exposed vertical linkage and you’re in.
3. It is unnecessary to remove the airbag to work on this ignition.
4. It is necessary to remove this security
plate in order to remove the ignition. It
is held in place by these three security
Torx screws.
Summer 1995
31
5. The security Torx
includes a post at
the center of the
screw head.
6. After removing
the screws, the
security plate will
fall out of place.
tension pin with a security Torx
and steel plate. To remove the
assembly you will have to
remove the three T15 security
Torx screws that hold it to the
column. (See photograph 4.) The
difference between a security
Torx and a regular Torx is that
on a security Torx there is a post
in the middle of the head of the
screw, preventing a regular Torx
driver from entering. (See
photograph 5.) (NOTE: Do not
have the working key in the
ignition cylinder until it has
been completely removed from
the car.)
After you remove the screws
the security plate will fall away
from the column. (See
photograph 6.) Next unplug the
wiring connectors to remove the
assembly from the car. (See
photograph 7.)
Once the unit is removed
from the car, remove the black
security Torx screw that secures
the cylinder to the electrical
switch unit. (See photograph 8.)
Insert the working key while
maintaining slight pulling
pressure, rotate the cylinder
7. Unplug
the
electrical
connectors
to remove
the unit
from the
car.
8. Now remove the security Torx that holds the ignition cylinder.
32
Summer 1995
9. Use the key to remove the cylinder.
10. The original factory lock is press fit together.
Disassembly is not recommended.
plug to the ON position and
then rotate it back to the OFF
position. Remove the key and
the cylinder should slide right
out, behind the key. (See
photograph 9.)
The ignition lock cylinder is
pictured in photograph 10. It is
much easier to use a new lock
service package instead of
rekeying the original ignition
lock. The factory lock has a
tailpiece that is pressed on, and
is difficult to service properly.
The service package is Strattec
#702788 and costs about $12.
The ignition cylinder plug
contains all seven tumblers
used in the car. (See photograph
12.)
11. Instead use the service package #702788 from Strattec.
12. The
ignition uses
all seven
positions.
There is a small metal buzzer
part that must go in the rear
section of the plug. It is
somewhat difficult to figure
which position it goes in. Make
sure you insert the part so the
slope on the top of it points
toward the rear of the plug. (See
photograph 13.)
Before you assemble the unit
don't forget to put in the spring
and guide pin on the front of
Summer 1995
33
13. Insert the
buzzer
activator
part in the
correct
direction.
15. The door panel must be removed to service this door lock.
the housing, use a little grease
to ease its operation. When
assembling the plug into the
housing, the plug may get
trapped by the buzzer activator
in the cylinder housing. If this
happens, use a small flat bladed
screwdriver to lift the buzzer
activator out of the way.
A roll pin holds the tailpiece
to the back of the plug. (See
photograph 14.)
To reinstall the ignition
cylinder, slide the cylinder in
while maintaining light pushing
pressure, then insert the key
and rotate to the ON position
and then rotate back to the OFF
34
Summer 1995
14. A roll pin
holds the
tailpiece to
the plug.
16. Remove one Phillips head screw to remove the door
release trim.
position. Now reinstall the
security Torx, to secure the
cylinder from coming out.
Before you reinstall the unit
into the car, remove the key
from
the
lock.
The
ignition/electrical
switch
assembly has two guide posts to
help line it back up to the
column. Take your time lining it
up, as it may take a couple of
minutes to place it in same
position it came off. Remember
not to have the key in it while
lining it up.
Doors
The door panel needs to be
removed to service the door
lock. (See photograph 15.)
First remove the inside door
release trim piece by removing
the one Phillips head screw. (See
photograph 16.) Push the trim
piece forward and then
disconnect
the
wiring
connector. (See photograph 17.)
Remove the cloth trim piece
in the armrest cavity and then
unscrew and remove the single
Phillips head screw. (See
photograph 18.)
Next, unsnap the speaker
cover and remove. The cover is
located on the forward lower
section of the door. There is one
Phillips head screw located
17. Move the trim piece forward and disconnect the electrical
connectors.
18. Remove the arm rest screw.
19. Unsnap the speaker cover and remove the one screw found beneath it.
under the speaker cover that
needs to be removed. (See
photograph 19.)
You can now remove the door
panel. Peel back the plastic
protective film to access the
inner door area. (See photograph
20.)
20. The
panel
can now
be
removed.
To service the door lock
cylinder it is easiest to remove
the
whole
handle/lock
assembly.
The handle is held in place by
a support plate. Remove the
Summer 1995
35
21. The door handle is held in place by a support plate. Remove a single 10mm nut to remove the plate.
single 10mm nut and then the
plate. (See photograph 21.)
Next, disconnect the outside
handle release linkage rod
where it meets the latch
mechanism. Disconnect the lock
cylinder linkage rod at the latch
also. They are held in place to
the latch with the standard type
plastic clips.
Now the handle assembly can
be easily removed from the car.
22. The handle removed.
The lock is held to the handle
by two Phillips head screws.
Remove the screws, then pull
the spacing block off the lock.
23. Remove the two Phillips head screws holding the lock in the door.
36
Summer 1995
24. Remove
the E-clip
that holds
the pawl in
place.
25. Remove
the face cap.
The tailpiece needs to be
removed to disassemble the
lock, it is held in place by an E
clip.(See photograph 24.)
26. The plug will now come out of the lock shell.
Remove the face cap and
discard. Replacement cap is
Strattec #321848. Remember
there are two small springs that
sit under the shutter assembly.
(See photograph 25.) Now slide
the plug out of the cylinder
housing. (See photograph 26.)
The door cylinder plug has five
tumblers in it, in positions 3
through 7. (See photograph 27.)
Trunk Lock
The trunk lock sits under the
taillight assembly which needs
to be removed to service the
trunk lock. (See photograph 28.)
There are ten 10mm nuts that
hold the light assembly in place.
Remove the bolts, disconnect
the two taillight lamps, and
remove the assembly. (See
photograph 29.)
The lock is held to the trunk
lid by three 11mm nuts, remove
them and take off the lock. The
lock cylinder is mounted in a
metal housing. There is a large
tension pin that holds the
cylinder to the housing. The roll
27. The disassembled door lock.
Summer 1995
37
28. The trunk lock is part of the trunk lid and requires
removal of the tail light assembly for service.
29. The tail light assembly removed.
DRILL HERE.
30. After removing the lock from the trunk lid, drill
a 1/8” hole above the roll pin that retains the lock
in the housing.
31. The disassembled trunk lock.
32. The
squeeze type
glove box
lock.
pin is inserted in a one way
hole. What I did was to drill a
1/8" hole above the pin and use
a pin punch to force the pin out
the other end of the hole. (See
photograph 30.)
Next, remove the tailpiece
and spring, but remember how
it goes back together. Remove
the face cap and discard.
Replacement cap is Strattec
#321848. Remember there are
two small springs that sit under
the shutter assembly. (See
photograph 31.)
38
Summer 1995
33. Hold back the two plastic tabs to release the plug out the front of the lock.
The trunk cylinder plug
contains five tumblers, in
positions 3 through 7.
Glove Box
The glove box lock is held in
place by a plastic horseshoe
clip, similar to the squeeze type
used in GM products. (See
photograph 32.)
The plug is held in place by
two small plastic tabs on the
rear of the lock. I use a small
screwdriver to work the tabs
out a little to slide the plug out
the front. (See photograph 33.)
The glove box cylinder plug
has three tumblers in it, in
positions 5, 6, and 7.
Making First Key
Code Series: L00013580
Method One: Use H. E.
Mitchell’s EEZ Reader in the
door to obtain cuts in positions
3 through 7 and then use reader
in ignition to get the two
remaining cuts in positions 1
and 2 for a complete key.
Key Blank: Ilco Y157, Silca
CY22
Method Two: Disassemble
door or trunk lock to obtain cuts
in positions 3 through 7 and
then progression remaining cuts
1 and 2 for a complete key.
NOTE: I do not recommend
impressioning these locks as
the tumblers are prone to
breaking when forced.
HPC 1200CM: CX60
MACS: 2
First Cut: .297”
FRAMON: Use Ford 5 pin
clip and set for first cut
@ .052.
Cut to Cut: .092”
Depths: 1-.340”, 2-.315”,
3-.290”, 4-.265”
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39
FEATURE ARTICLE
The Z-Tool Story
Dale takes a look at another set of opening tools.
By Dale Libby
I
just received my update
notice
and
Official
Newsletter from The Slide Lock
Took Company. A lot of things
have changed since Slide Lock
first offered the original Z-Tool
set. These changes offer a lot of
new innovations that help the
locksmith successfully open any
vehicle that he or she
encounters.
The new full program that
contains all the new tools and
fresh innovations is called the
Grand Master Z-Tool System. The
set contains nine tools and nine
accessories, or has only 18 items
total. A hard plastic carrying
case which measures 30”(L) x
9“(W) x 5”(D), and easily
carries all tools, reference book,
and probe lights is available. It
is especially long to carry the
special across the car tools.
There is plenty of room to grow
for new additional tools.
Photograph one shows three of
the components in the kit. A
short discussion of each is in
order. First, and most
important, is the multi-color
system manual which is pocket
sized
and
completely
illustrated. The illustrations are
the best in the industry.
First, the car is looked up in
the easy 78 page alphabetized
40
Summer 1995
1. The System Manual, Hold Harmless Authorization Forms, and a squeeze
bottle of weatherstripping lubricant.
index in the front of the manual.
Next, the manual refers the
specific tool to use and to an
opening procedure by number
with any special or additional
instructions. The referenced
diagram shows in two color
how to open and unlock
queried vehicle.
The manual covers over 800
lockout situations for vehicles
from 1950 to the present and is
160 pages long. Included are
foreign and domestic autos,
trucks, and vans. This manual
lays flat or can be suction
cupped to the window of the
car for hands free step-by-step
review. Even the position and
motion of the hands are
illustrated for extra visual
clarity.
With
the
kit
comes
Authorization & Hold Harmless
Release Forms. Do the forms
work? Yes, and No. They cannot
guarantee that you will not be
sued by a customer, either right
or wrong. The courts decide
that. And, yet, the object of
filling out the form is to try and
cover your services if they are
ever questioned by a court of
law or by the police
department.
The form wants you to list the
Date, Authorizing Party,
Driver's License number,
Vehicle VIN#, and the person
opening the vehicle. There is an
additional checklist with an
important line about the history
of the opening. It will remind
you to ask the lock-outee if
someone has "Previously
Attempted to open this vehicle."
Both the customer and the
service person gets a copy of
this agreement.
Another included item is the
Lube Tube. This is a small
plastic squeeze bottle that is
filled with liquid dish washing
soap and wind shield washer
solvent. This is used to lubricate
window frame gaskets and
weatherstripping.
When
opening vent windows, this is
especially important.
Photograph two shows the
Lube Tube and the new and
improved Flex-A-Wedges. The
new red wedge is made with a
small hump which prevents the
thin wedge from falling down
into the door cavity of older,
looser fitting windows. The
hump also helps in inserting the
wedge into tight newer fitting
windows. The wedge is just
wide enough to let all the ZTools work without the danger
of window breakage that could
possibly happen with wide and
fat wedges.
The backbone of the Z-Tool
set is the Slide Lock tool.
Photograph three shows the end
2. The New and Improved Flex-a-Wedges and the lubricant bottle.
of the original
Z-Tool and the
new Inverted
Z-Tool. The new
tool is used on
models with
the lock linkages located
below the door
handle linkage.
A small sample
of cars that use
this configuration include
models
of
Toyota, Mazda,
G e n e r a l
Motors, and
several other
manufacturers.
One of the
hidden benefits
of these tools is
the notch that
fits over the
control rods,
either with the
3. The Standard and the Inverted Z-Tools. Workhorses
of the Master Z-Tool set.
Summer 1995
41
steel. This tool is
used on high security
doors which do not
have a frame around
the window. This tool
is a two part
extension implement
which is screwed
together to create an
extended reach probe
for door lock buttons
and power lock
rocker buttons.
A wedge is inserted
in the upper part of
the window and the
assembled tool is
inserted. There is also
a plastic tube on the
4. Z-Tools with Serpentine Button tool in bottom of 30” plastic foam bottom carrying
outer end of the tool
case.
to keep the edge of
the rod from rubbing
directly against the window
regular Z-or Inverted Z-Tool.
system. Shown is the Porsche
glass. Nice Touch.
These are not just stamped out,
928 tool and the Japanese
but
also
milled.
The
window button tool.
One of the more versatile
configuration will more easily
features of the Z-Tool system is
In the center of the picture is
grip the rod you are trying to
shown in Photograph six This is
the
newly
configured
move with the Mini-Box-Hooks.
the bending chart that must be
AutoBuster III tool. It has a new
Both of these tools are made
of high strength stainless steel
which will hold their shape for
years. A nice touch on both of
these Z-Tools are the embossed
depth guides on the edge of the
tools. The directions tell you
which depth guide mark to
lower the tool to, in order to
more easily find and contact the
point you are looking for in the
car.
Photograph four shows the ZTools in the bottom of the
padded case. Included is the
New Serpent(ine) Tool. This is
the button for both narrow and
wide applications. Putting both
these configurations on the
same tool makes it very
convenient. Photograph five
displays more of the Z-Tool
42
Summer 1995
rounded top for easier insertion
and a 9-1/2” reach. The longer
reach and configuration of the
tool make it easier to move the
slide lock buttons and to also
move the rocker type manual
lock buttons that are making an
appearance on newer cars.
Other tools that are new to the
system bedsides the Serpent
Tool, the Mercedes Strip
(similar to the Lemon Pop, Sully
Strip) tool, and the Wing
Window Tool. This last tool
makes opening vans and other
vehicles with vent windows a
snap. It is also a good idea to
use the lube tube lubricant with
this tool.
An addition to the 1994 ZTool set is the Frameless
Window Tool made of stainless
used on a few models. With this
chart, you bend the basic Z-Tool
to a sharper angle to extend the
tool's normal reach.
Another nice feature of the
regular and inverted Z-Tools is
that one tool is not the other
with reverse hooks. The
distance to the Mini-Box-Hooks
is different on both tools,
making the reach much more
versatile.
The Grand Master Z-Tool set
includes a head lamp for night
openings. The only other
instrument that you might want
to buy in addition is the Big "D"
cell Door Cavity Probe Light
that uses a broad spectrum
replaceable bulb. This is a
professional aviation probe
light perfect for door cavity
5. Auto-Buster III tool, Porsche Tool, and Japanese Button
tool.
6. Z-Tool Bending chart at rear of book.
viewing. The standard AA type
battery probe light will lose
most of its brightness in under
35 minutes, usually.
If you missed updating your
Z-Tool set in the past, do not
worry. All the tools are
available
for
purchase
separately, or for special prices
if ordered with other tools or
updates. Better yet, it may be
simply better to start over and
order the entire 18 piece Grand
Master Set. This way you avoid
having to buy additional tools
to update older sets of the ZTools. Also it is a good idea to
have a fresh or back-up Z-Tool
around.
to use tool system. OPEN CARS
and PROSPER.
I have personally used the ZTool system for seven years and
have found the books and tools
the best. As with anything,
practice makes perfect. Other
locksmiths have their special
systems and tools, but now
with the new hard double
walled carrying case (which fits
behind the seat of a full sized
pick-up truck)the Z-Tool is my
first choice when I am not in my
service vehicle. Anyway, we
have Scott Selby and his crew to
thank for this updated and easy
For further information and to
order tools you can contact
Slide Lock Tool Co. at 1166
Topside Road, Louisville, TN
37777,(800) 336-8812, FAX
(615) 577-5936.
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Summer 1995
43
FEATURE ARTICLE
The Not-So-Amazing Ford Contour
The differences in this vehicle have been overrated,
and are actually variations of older systems.
By Tom Seroogy
lot has already been said
about the new Ford
Contour/Mercury Mystique
except that, after all is said and
done, what is there to be
nervous about?
A
The keying is the same
standard 10-Cut system that
Ford has been using since 19841/2. The ignition is highly
reminiscent of the older Capri
and later Merkur XR4Ti
cylinders yet, as we will
explain, is easier to remove
when a key is not available. (See
photograph 1.)
European and foreign auto
work won't see the changes as
changes, just variations of old
systems. Besides, service to new
as well as well known systems
should be approached with the
same appropriate degree of
caution. And with this said, you
can be sure that service to this
vehicle is in the realm of any
locksmith currently experienced
at auto work.
Now, let's start with the
basics. As mentioned earlier,
this vehicle uses the standard
Ford 10-Cut keying system.
Starting from the bow, the door
locks are wafer locks using
spaces 1 through 6. The ignition
is a sidebar lock using spaces 5
through 10. Well known is the
sharing of spaces 5 and 6.
[Note: Ford actually starts
their spacing from the tip of the
key. Space or cut one starts at
the tip and cut 10 ends at the
bow. Understanding the
spacing from this perspective
In fact, about the only truly
enlightening difference we
noticed is the use of cables
instead of rod linkage for the
door lock and latch release. And
it should be noted that the
Honda Del Sol has used cable
on their latch release as well.
Now, these aren't insouciant
remarks. While there are new
lines, a new price tag and some
new features to the locking
system on this vehicle, it is, in
fact, still a Ford. The above
remarks are simply made to
settle the cloud of fear that has
been raised over this particular
vehicle.
Those more familiar with
44
Summer 1995
1. Lockset from the new Ford Contour.
PUSH BUTTON
RETAINER
2. This lock uses a push button retainer and a snap ring that's keyed into the housing.
make keying the locks and
cutting keys on this system
much easier to understand and
follow. And, in fact, I
recommend this approach.
However, to accommodate the
locksmith and most locksmith
manufacturers who produce
Ford aftermarket products, this
article will follow the trade
established bow-to-tip
sequence.]
The trunk and the glove box
use the standard Ford 5-Cut
secondary key. The glove box
uses wafer tumblers in spaces 2,
3 and 4. The trunk uses
tumblers in all five spaces and
are wafer tumblers not pin.
After removing the trunk lock,
the wafers can be easily read
through a drain hole on the
bottom of the lock.
Key Generation
Primary Key:
Method 1 - Use H.E.
Mitchell's #H54 Eez Reader,
sight read, impression, or use
try-out keys to determine the
cuts of the tumblers in the door
lock. Then either use try-out
keys or progression the cuts in
the ignition. (A Ford 10-Cut
progression chart is available
PLASTIC TAB
3. The door locks use a plastic facecap. Be careful removing and replacing. Replacements are not yet available.
Summer 1995
45
4. The trunk
lock in its
sleeve.
allow depression of the button
retainer as well as align the
snap ring with a ward or
broaching in the lock housing.
Method 1 - Remove plastic
shroud. Use working key or
pick ignition to the ON
position. Depress the lock
cylinder retainer found at about
between the 12 and 1 o'clock
position. Remove cylinder.
Method 2 - If working key is
not available, the lock does not
pick or is malfunctioning, from
the face of the lock drill and
remove the sidebar and turn to
the ON position. Depress the
lock cylinder retainer and
remove the lock.
TUMBLERS
VISIBLE
Note: The sidebar is located to
the left-center of the keyway.
While there is no hardened
material covering the sidebar
itself, there is a hardened ring
insert in the cylinder that can
easily damage or break the drill
bit. Be careful.
5. The wafers for the trunk lock are easily visible through the bottom
drain hole.
from H.E.
request.)
Mitchell
upon
Method 2 - Remove the door
lock and read the tumbler
depths through the drain hole
on the bottom of the cylinder.
Then either use try-out keys or
progression the cuts in the
ignition.
Secondary Key:
Method 1 - Sight read or
impression the trunk lock.
Method 2 - Sight read glove
box lock. Then progression or
impression trunk.
Method 3 - Remove trunk
lock and read tumblers through
46
Summer 1995
drain hole in the bottom of the
lock.
Ignition Removal
As stated earlier, the ignition
cylinder is almost identical to
the older Capri and later
Merkur XR4Ti ignitions. The
main difference is that instead
of a spring steel retainer similar
to the VW ignition lock, this
unit uses a push button retainer.
Besides the push button
retainer, a keyed snap ring on
the back of the lock plug holds
the lock in the housing. (See
photograph 2.) In order to
remove this lock, the plug must
be turned to the ON position to
Door Lock
The only variation from the
norm on the door locks is the
two piece plastic facecap. The
facecap consists of the outer,
trim portion, and an inner
piece. The inner piece is
actually a clear optical lens for
the illuminated entry models.
On models where there is not
illuminated entry, this piece is
black. The facecap uses heat
staked plastic tabs hold it to the
cylinder. As no replacements
are currently available, remove
them gently. I used a soldering
gun to melt the tabs back in
place. (See photograph 3.)
Trunk Lock
The trunk lock is held into the
car and a large sleeve by a clip.
(See photograph 4.) While using a
secondary key, this lock uses
wafer tumblers instead of pin
tumbler. They can be easily read
through the bottom drain hole.
(See photograph 5.)
And there you
have it, an easy
lesson
in
the
Contour/Mystique
mystery lock
system.
Like the door lock, the facecap
is plastic and heat staked in
place. If necessary, use a Dremel
tool to cut away only the
overlapping portion of the
stake. Use a soldering gun to
restake. (See photograph 6.)
Stay tuned to our
future issues when
technical writer
Michael Hyde runs
us through the full
service lock procedure on this now
familiar vehicle.
Glove Box
If working on the glove box,
the plug is held into the lock by
three small tabs on the back of
the plug. Use a small hollow
tube to compress the tabs (I
used a tailpiece from a Kwikset
deadbolt) and release the lock
cam or pawl and return spring.
Then rake the tumblers to push
the plug out the front of the
lock. (See photograph 7.) To
reassemble, simply press all the
components back together.
For more information on the
Eez Reader and
progression chart,
contact
H.E.
Mitchell at P.O. Box
14009, Portland,
OR, 97214. Phone
(800) 626-5625.
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PLASTIC TAB
6. This lock also has a plastic facecap and heat
staked retaining tabs.
LOCKING TABS
7. Three small locking tabs hold the glove box lock together. Using a
small diameter tube to compress the tabs will release the plug out the
front of the lock.
Summer 1995
47
FEATURE ARTICLE
Auto Parts By Michael Hyde
S
ome of the information in this
column is new to most and just
reminders to others. Appearing on
a regular basis, AutoSmart AddOns will cover several different
auto topics including: keys, locks
and locking systems, airbags and
related topics, vehicle model
changes and Auto Tools.
Volvo Side Airbags
According to my sources, one of
the first Volvos equipped with the
new side airbags was in an
accident just prior to the end of
1994. The accident happened on a
freeway in Dallas, when a car
going in the other direction crossed
the center divider at an estimated
speed of 65 mph and hit the Volvo
on the left side. Both seat airbags
were deployed along with both
front driver and passenger airbags.
I think just having four airbags
going off at one time would be
enough for me to head for the local
bar. Nobody in the Volvo was
injured. The airbags are located in
the side of the seats, not the door.
There were prototypes that had
them in the door, but that was
changed before final production
begun.
A-1 Security
There is a new tool coming to a
distributor near you, made by the
good folks at A-1 Security and it's
hot. The new tool is for GM 10-Cut
Ignition locks. The tool works on
both the car and the truck models.
The tool allows you to pick,
remove and then decode the
ignition to make a working key. No
drilling and no damage to the lock
is necessary. It comes with a very
good manual that is easy to
understand.
Chrysler Mini-vans
The 1995 Chrysler mini-vans,
(Chrysler Town & Country, Dodge
Caravan, and Plymouth Voyager)
are using the tumbler locations of
1994 models. Cuts 3 through 7 in
the doors and cuts 1 through 7 in
the ignition. Chrysler has released
its 1996 Mini-vans early and their
tumbler locations are different. The
doors and the ignition have cuts 1
through 7. The doors will be using
the new style wafer tumbler in the
1996 models. The older wafer
48
Summer 1995
tumblers were prone to breakage.
Remember the fastest way to make
a key to this van is to use an EEZReader, sold by H.E. Mitchell Co.
Ford 10-Cut Reminder
All standard Ford 10-Cut
ignitions (except Escort/Tracer
1991 & up, Contour, Mystique), the
cuts that contact the key are on the
top of the keyway (the side closest
to the driver). Escort/Tracer 1991
and up, Contour, Mystique, the
cuts that contact the key are on the
bottom (the side farthest away
from the driver). All Ford pin
tumbler ignitions the cuts that
contact the key are on the bottom
(the side farthest away from the
driver).
Lexus 1995 LS400
Lexus released its new
redesigned version of the LS400, a
few months ago. They took the
transmitter out of the key head and
put it on a small key fob. The talk
at Lexus is that they will put the
transmitter back in the key head
starting in the 1996 Model year.
Lexus owners have complained
that the key-head-transmitter was
one of the reasons they bought a
Lexus to begin with. The Lexus key
with a built in transmitter has a
small button on it that allows the
doors to be locked or unlocked
when the button is pressed. It also
arms or disarms the alarm. A very
nice idea.
Pontiac Transport &
Chevy Lumina Van
These vans now come with an
option that allow the sliding side
door to be opened or closed with a
power motor, and is operated from
a key fob. The problem is the
sensor that is suppose to stop the
door from closing on a child or
obstacle, is not always working to
proper specifications. It is possible
for the power sliding door to
continue to try and close itself even
when there is an obstacle present,
including a child's neck. We tested
this and had a service manager
from a dealership try and hold the
door back as the it was trying to
close. He turned red in the face
trying to hold the power sliding
door open.
Range Rover &
Defender Warning
Changes were made in the
ignitions of these vehicles for 1995.
Ilco's new 1995 Auto/Truck Key
Blank Reference says you can use
the X170 or NE48. This not true.
These blanks if used on a 1995
model will get stuck in the ignition,
DO NOT USE THEM. The only
correct blank for these vehicles is
from SILCA. The Silca key blank
number is NE75EP.
The New Range Rover 4.0SE
There is a new Range Rover out
there called the 4.0SE. This vehicle
uses a Four-Track High-Security
Keyway with a Transponder in the
bow of the key. Yes, it is so far the
ultimate in High-Security keys. The
key looks similar to a Mercedes 4Track key, except the key has a
blunt tip, no point. The locking
system is made by HUF' of
Germany. A replacement key takes
about 3 to 4 weeks to obtain and
they are made in Germany,
according to your VIN. A
replacement key will cost the 4.0SE
owner about $111.40. The vehicle
comes with 2 keys, one black and
one gray. The transponder in the
key also resets the seat and mirrors
for that driver using that color
coded key.
This vehicle also includes a
deadbolt system. It should be
noted that this is a deadbolt system
and not a deadlock system used by
BMW.
Ford Probe
It looks like the 1996 Ford Probe
will be the last year for this model.
The Probe is made off of the Mazda
626 platform.
Lexus Airbags
If you disconnect the battery and
then disconnect the airbag you will
trip a device that will activate the
dash light for the SRS System, once
the battery is re-connected. The
light will stay on all the time, until
the device can be reset. This is a
safety feature for the SRS System.
Since Lexus believes it should be
the only one working on these cars.
Resetting the device is easy, but
can only be done at the dealer
because a special tool is required.•

The 1995 Chrysler LeBaron - The National Locksmith

Transcription

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