Cold Process Soap Making 101 Handouts

Transcription

Cold Process Soap Making 101:
The Basics & Much More
~by Lori Nova Endres~
www.TheNovaStudio.com
Name: ____________________________
Date: _____________________________
Disclaimer: Sodium hydroxide (lye) should be handled carefully only by those who have read and
understand the dangers of working with a highly caustic raw material. It is the responsibility of each
soapmaker to research safety procedures prior to making soap.
Recommended Soap Books
~Cavitch, Susan Miller. The Soapmaker's Companion, Storey Publishing, 1997.
2 Things I Don’t Agree With: 10% lye discount & using GSE. I recommend instead using a
5% lye discount (or 5% superfatting) & I use ROE for antioxidant purposes.
~Grosso, Alicia. The Everything Soapmaking Book (2nd Edition), Adams Media, 2007.
~Gale, Marie. Soap & Cosmetic Labeling: How to Follow the Rules and Regs Explained in
Plain English, Cinnabar Press, 2008.
Additional Reading/Sources
Cavitch, Susan Miller. The Natural Soap Book, Storey Publishing, 1995.
Coss, Melinda. Gourmet Soaps Made Easy. North Light Books, 2001.
Coss, Melinda. The Handmade Soap Book. Storey Communications, 1998.
Failor, Catherine. Making Natural Liquid Soaps, Storey Publishing, 2000.
Failor, Catherine. Making Transparent Soap, Storey Publishing, 2000.
Copyright © 2003-2015 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved.
No part of this handout may be copied or distributed in print or on the web without permission.
What is Cold Process (CP) Soap?
Making your own soap from scratch is a wonderful way to express your creativity and give your family
& friends access to amazing soap. You can customize it for any skin type & it can be as natural as
you want to make it. Just like when you make a cake from scratch, instead of buying one pre-made or
purchasing an inexpensive boxed mix, your soap can have the highest quality ingredients (organic, if
you so choose) and as long as you understand how the different oils & ingredients affect the final
soap, you have total control over how the soap turns out (mushy or hard, plain or colorful, unscented
or scented, etc.).
The Cold Process (or CP) method is the most common method that is used today to make soap at
home (and for good reason). It truly makes the best soap money can buy. This is why so many homebased soap businesses begin. Compared to what you can buy in on in a typical store, handmade
soap far exceeds customer expectations of what a good soap is, AND it’s not that difficult or
expensive to make.
To make soap using the Cold Process method, you combine your oils/fats, distilled water/lye, and stir
the mixture to trace (a stage of thickness, which will be explained later in the handouts), then add
colors, scents and additives (all optional) and pour into a prepared mold. The saponification process
mainly takes place in the mold without your involvement. No outside heat source is used once the
oils/fats and water/lye are mixed together (other than what naturally occurs). Subsequently, most CP
soaps need 4-6 weeks to cure (during which time excess water evaporates & any residual lye is
neutralized) before they should be used.
Soap History
The origins of personal cleanliness date back to prehistoric times. Since water is essential for life, the
earliest people lived near water and knew something about its cleansing properties. A soap-like
material found in clay cylinders during the excavation of ancient Babylon is evidence that soapmaking
was known as early as 2800 B.C. Inscriptions on the cylinders say that fats were boiled with ashes,
which is a method of making soap, but they do not refer to the purpose of "soap." A medical document
from about 1500 B.C. describes combining animal fats and vegetable oils with alkaline salts to form a
soap-like material used for treating skin diseases, as well as for washing.
According to an ancient Roman legend, soap got its name from Mount Sapo where animals were
sacrificed. Rain washed a mixture of melted animal fat & wood ashes down into the clay soil along the
Tiber River. People found that this clay mixture made their laundry cleaner with less effort. The
ancient Germans & Gauls are also credited with discovering a substance called soap made from
tallow & ashes (Source: www.cleaninginstitute.org).
America traditionally treated soapmaking as a home craft, making sodium hydroxide (caustic
soda/lye) by leaving rainwater to drip through a perforated barrel filled with hardwood ash. The
resulting solution was then boiled until it was concentrated enough for a fresh egg (still in its shell) to
float on the surface without sinking. Fat was rendered from whichever animals happened to be around
at the time & "grandma-style" soap was created, although rough skin & holey socks were often
unwelcome by-products of this rather caustic brew (Source: Handmade Soap Book by Melinda Coss).
Sites with Excellent Information About Soap History:
www.alcasoft.com/soapfact/history.html
www.carolochs.com/history-of-soapmaking.php
Page 1
What is Trace?
When saponification occurs, your soap will thicken to a point referred to as trace. A "traced" batch is
often identified by dribbling soap from the spoon over the soap mixture until the dribble sits on top of
the mixture (forming a bumpy line). A thin trace is like pancake batter. A very thick trace is similar to
the consistency of pudding.
Once the soap reaches this stage, you know it’s ready to be poured into the molds. Some recipes can
take only minutes to reach trace, while others can take several hours or more. The specific oils/fats in
a recipe will usually determine how long they take to reach this stage. Don't fear; as long as your
recipe is good and your measurements are accurate, your soap will eventually reach the all important
phase called trace.
NOTE: The reason recognizing trace is so important is that it is your signal that the soap is mixed
thoroughly enough where you can then add your scent and place it into the mold to finish saponifying.
If your soap isn’t properly mixed, you can have separation of the ingredients which will result in a
failed/bad batch.
Factors Affecting Trace Time
•
Stirring the soap more rapidly will bring the soap to trace sooner. Whisking with a stainless
steel whisk will make the mixture reach trace sooner than stirring with a spoon (the old
fashioned method). More recently, soap makers have discovered the stick blender (aka
immersion blender) which can save hours of stirring for some recipes. Almost everyone I know
now uses the stick blender to make soap.
•
Be aware that some fragrance oils, some essential oils (particularly warming oils), fragrance
oils & ingredients (like pomace olive oil or GSE or ROE) will sometimes speed up trace time.
It's not entirely predictable but good to be aware of so you are ready (with molds, etc.) when
the soap is!
Tips on Using a Stick Blender
(NOTE: My favorite is the Proctor Silex Brand from CVS for about $15)
While many soap makers use a stick blender to reduce stirring time, others are nervous about using a
high-speed mechanical appliance with the caustic lye solution. I resisted at first, but now I always use
a stick blender to make soap. Here are some tips:
• If you've never used a stick blender before, experiment in your soap mixing container with
plain water. Get a feel for how the stick blender operates and how much you can raise it
without having water splash on the sides and out of the pot.
• Be sure that your blender is completely submersed in the soap before turning on.
• If your blender has 2 speeds, start out on low and increase to high if needed.
• I recommend not using a stick blender when first combining the lye/water with the oils. Instead,
use a spoon and hand stir. Once they have thoroughly mixed, put the stick blender in, turn it
on low, and start blending. Only run blender for a few minutes at a time otherwise the motor
can burn out (die). Also, I like to finish up a batch by hand stirring in the essential oils and
herbs.
Note: You can buy stick blenders at stores like Walgreen’s, Kmart or Target for about $10 - $15.
They also sell more expensive, fancy models at specialty stores like Williams Sonoma,
Macy’s, etc. for anywhere between $15 and $100. The $15 ones work just fine - so save your
money for those expensive essential oils instead!
Page 2
Materials, Equipment & Supplies
Many people read about and study soapmaking for months before ever making a batch. Even then,
most people don't try it without someone else who has made soap before there to make sure
everything is good. After taking this class and reading through all the materials (assuming you
understand the process and took good notes), you should be able to make soap on your own
although personally, I prefer to make soap with a friend.
Before You Begin, Make Sure You Have The Following:
1. A Clean Work Area. The key to making soap incident-free is to be organized. Be sure to have all
your ingredients measured out ahead of time. Always have a pen & paper ready to take any
necessary notes. Taking good notes during the soapmaking process is critical for troubleshooting
bad batches and repeating successful batches.
2. Proper Attire. Any collection of old clothing (long sleeved shirt, pants, shoes, etc.) that will cover
the majority of your skin in the case you spill the lye or soap mixture. You should ALWAYS wear
rubber gloves AND eye protection when working with lye.
3. An Environment Free from Distractions. Never make soap when you are watching small children,
are hurried or distracted. Many soap makers don't even answer their phone or the door while
making soap. Although making soap is fun, it demands a certain level of seriousness and focus.
Materials & Equipment Checklist:
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Safety Equipment (eye protection, rubber gloves, long sleeved shirt, socks, etc.)
Accurate Digital Scale (that measures ounces & grams for oils/fats & lye)
2 cup Heavy Duty Plastic Measuring Cup (for weighing the sodium hydroxide)
2 quart Heavy Duty Plastic Pitcher or Bucket (for mixing lye into the water)
5-10 Qt. Stainless Steel Pot (must be non-aluminum) (for melting oils & mixing soap)
1 or 2 Heavy Plastic Mixing Spoons (for mixing the lye/water and your soap)
Measuring Cups and Spoons (for measuring miscellaneous additives)
Stick Blender (you could stir soap with a spoon but it takes MUCH longer)
High Heat Spatula (for scraping inside of the soap pot when pouring into molds)
2 Thermometers (one for lye mixture and one for oils – or one infrared gun thermometer).
Heavy Duty Large Plastic Bowl (for water bath, if needed)
Stove Top or Hot Plate to Warm/Melt Oils/Fats
Reynolds Plastic Coated Freezer Paper for Lining Soap Molds & Covering Counters
Soap Molds – Can be wood, cardboard, PVC, etc. (lined w/Freezer Paper if needed)
Old Blankets or Towels for Insulating/Wrapping your Soap
Non-Serrated Knife or Soap Cutter (to cut the soap 24-48 hours after pouring)
Paper Towels and/or Old Rags for Clean-up
White Vinegar (good for cleaning up - used to neutralize lye spills)
Ingredients Checklist:
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Lye (100% sodium hydroxide – only use a trusted brand with no metal flakes)
Distilled or De-Ionized Water (at room temperature – never use hot water)
Base Oils & Fats (olive oil, coconut oil, palm oil, castor, etc.)
Additives (like natural herbs/clays)
Essential Oils (natural) or Fragrance Oils (synthetic – use only if tested in CP soap)
ROE (Rosemary Oleoresin Extract, antioxidant to extend the shelf life of your soap)
Page 3
Working with Sodium Hydroxide (aka Lye)
All soap contains lye – if it didn't, it wouldn't be called soap! The following info. regarding lye (aka
caustic soda) will most likely frighten you. However, thousands of people just like you make soap
everyday without incident. The best way to avoid injury is to educate yourself about the dangers &
take the necessary precautions. This compound is worthy of our greatest respect. If you can get
past the warning information, you are destined to be a soap maker!
•
Sodium hydroxide is commonly used as a main ingredient in drain cleaners. It is highly reactive
both in its dry form & within a solution (when mixed with liquid).
•
Lye is corrosive to all tissues. If lye gets on your skin, it will burn if not immediately washed off.
Flood skin burns with large quantities of running water until the soapy, slippery feel disappears;
then wash with soap and water. If it appears burned, treat as you would treat any other burn.
•
Never leave a container of lye (dry or liquid) unattended or accessible to children or pets. If
accidentally swallowed, lye causes serious internal injury & can be fatal if you do not act
immediately. Currently, the recommendation of the poison control center is to drink several large
glasses of water, call 911 & go quickly to the emergency room.
•
Eye protection (goggles) should ALWAYS be worn when making soap. An accidental splash
could burn or blind you. In the case of eye exposure, irrigate the eyes with large quantities of
running water & seek immediate medical attention. Some say Milk is a good eye wash as well.
•
Do not use ALUMINUM anything (spoons, bowls, molds, etc.) as it is highly reactive with lye.
Cover all work surfaces well as lye can eat into wood, melt or eat through some thin plastics, etc.
•
The dry lye should ALWAYS be added to the WATER, not the other way around. If water is
poured into the lye, the reaction can cause a volcano of lye solution. When adding the lye to the
water, the mixture will create harmful fumes for a few minutes that you should not breathe.
Work in a well ventilated area (or outside).
Where Do You Buy Sodium Hydroxide (aka Lye)?
In the past, soap makers purchased 100% lye in the form of the brand Red Devil Drain Cleaner in
the cleaning section of supermarkets or hardware stores. Red Devil was the only brand of drain
cleaner that we trusted to be 100% sodium hydroxide (most other drain cleaners contain metals and
are not suitable for soap making). Recently, the makers of Red Devil stopped supplying local stores
(rumor has it that it’s used in the production of the drug crystal meth). Most soap makers are now
forced to purchase lye on line. Until another 100% lye source is readily available from local
supermarkets, we recommend purchasing from www.brambleberry.com or www.essentialdepot.com
Before using, shake the container to determine if the contents are dry & loose. If it sounds chunky at
all, moisture has gotten in and you should not use it. I would not recommend buying more than you
need – it's just asking for trouble to have extra lye lying around the house (no pun intended ☺).
Page 4
Blank CP Soap Worksheet (for copying)
RECIPE NAME:_______________________
Made On Date: ___________________
Created By: __________________________
Use After (6 weeks) Date: ___________
Oil Name
________________
________________
________________
________________
________________
Oil Amount
________ oz.
________ oz.
________ oz.
________ oz.
________ oz.
Oil %
_____%
_____%
_____%
_____%
_____%
Notes
______________________________
______________________________
______________________________
______________________________
______________________________
Total Batch Weight (in oil): ______ oz. (total/16 oz. = _____ pounds)
LIQUID: ___________________________________ Amount: ____________________
LYE: _____% superfatting = ______ oz. x 28.35 (conversion #)
equals _____ grams of lye needed for this recipe
SCENT NOTES: _________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
COLOR NOTES: _________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
ADDITIVE NOTES: _______________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
OTHER NOTES:
COMBINING TEMPS: _____°F Oils
_____°F Lye
ANTIOXIDANT: Add 2 grams (or ½ tsp.) ROE for 64 ounces of oil (.1%) ___Yes or ___No
In Final MOLD at: ______ am / pm MOLD TYPE:_______________
Unmolded on _____ date at :_____ am / pm
EVALUATION of FINISHED SOAP:_____________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________
Page 5
Majestic Mountain Sage Lye Calculator Printout
(source: www.thesage.com)
YIELD: This is a 64 ounce batch (of oils), also known as a 4-Pound Batch.
Page 6
Recipe CP 101 Soap Worksheet
RECIPE NAME:_______________________
Made On Date: ___________________
Created By: Lori @ The Nova Studio
Use After (6 weeks) Date: ___________
Oil Name
Olive Oil
Coconut Oil
Palm Oil
Castor Oil
Oil Amount
25 oz.
18 oz.
18 oz.
3 oz.
Oil %
39.06%
28.13%
28.13%
04.69%
Notes
______________________________
______________________________
______________________________
______________________________
Total Batch Weight (in oil): 64 ounces (total divided by 16 oz. = 4 pound batch)
LIQUID: 22 Ounces (weight) of Distilled Water
LYE: 5% superfatting = 9.16 oz. (x conversion number 28.35 = 260 grams of lye)
SCENT NOTES: _________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
COLOR NOTES: _________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
ADDITIVE NOTES: _______________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
OTHER NOTES:
COMBINING TEMPS: _____°F Oils
_____°F Lye
ANTIOXIDANT: Add 2 grams (~1/2 tsp.) ROE for 64 ounces of oil (.1%) ___Yes or ___No
In Final MOLD at: ______ am / pm MOLD TYPE:_______________
Unmolded on _____ date at :_____ am / pm
EVALUATION of FINISHED SOAP:_____________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________
Page 7
Instructions for Making Cold Process Soap
1. Ready your working area and your mold(s). Start by covering any surfaces you wish to protect
from the lye & raw soap. Have all ingredients out & ready before starting.
2. Place your heavy-duty plastic bucket or mixing container (one that holds at least 8 cups of liquid)
onto your scale & tare it out. Weigh out the distilled water. Set it on a tile or trivet (heat-proof pad).
3. Put on protective goggles and rubber gloves and carefully weigh out the lye in a heavy-duty plastic
measuring cup (approx 2-cup size). TIP: Sometimes plastic can cause static and the lye granules
will bounce out of the cup. To remedy this, first gently wipe the inside & outside of your plastic
measuring cup with a new anti-static dryer sheet (like Bounce) to prevent static.
4. In a well-ventilated area, hold your breath and while slowly and steadily stirring with one hand,
pour the lye granules INTO the container with the distilled water (NEVER the other way around or
you could have a volcano of caustic lye). Take a break to walk away and breathe. Continue to stir
until all lye is dissolved (about 15-30 seconds). The reaction of the lye and water will produce
heat, up to 200°F, which causes steam & fumes. Take care not to breathe in the fumes. Place in a
safe area to cool to approx. 110°F.
5. Weigh coconut & palm oils (non-liquid base oils) on scale directly in your soap mixing pot (a stovetop safe stainless steel or enamel pan). As a reminder, never use aluminum anything as it will
react with the lye solution and the raw soap mixture.
6. Melt solid coconut & palm oils over low heat until just melted. Turn off heat and add any liquid oils
(olive oil, castor oil, etc.). If using ROE (antioxidant), now is the time to add it. Stir and cool until
oils reach desired combining temp. of approximately 110°F (between 100-120°F is usually fine).
7. While waiting, double check molds, herbs, essential oils & any other additives.
8. When everything is ready and the temp. of both mixtures/pots is between 100-120°F, you are
ready to make soap! Put back on your goggles & rubber gloves and carefully pour the lye/water
into the fats and gently stir with a stainless steel or heavy-duty plastic spoon.
9. Once the lye/water and oils have started mixing, carefully place stick blender into the soap and
blend on low speed (if there is a choice) mixing for 5 to 30 second pulses until the soap is mixed
and reaches a light trace. If you mix too much, the soap could get too thick, which is really no big
deal but in rare cases it can harden in the bowl.
10. If you haven’t already done so, add coloring and/or herbs and stir (recipes vary widely when you
should add certain additives – as there is no one “right” way to do this).
11. Lastly, add essential oils. Hand stir thoroughly or quick bursts with stick blender.
12. Once everything is incorporated, carefully pour soap into molds. Cover with mold cover (if
applicable) or plastic wrap to reduce soda ash. Insulate molds well with old towels/blankets to
keep the heat in as it continues to saponify/heat overnight.
13. Setting times vary based on a number of factors, but for this recipe, I usually leave it in the mold
for 48 hours (2-3 days) after pouring.
NOTE: See the following pages for clean up tips, cutting, curing & wrapping info.
Page 8
Cleaning Up
Once you have poured your soap and have it covered and in a safe place, it’s time to clean up! There
are generally two options: clean up right away or let the dirty pots and spoons sit until the raw soap
has saponified and is easier and somewhat safer to clean up (by the next day it is very much on its
way to being soap and will lather up all on its own). Unfortunately, the second option requires a
separate area/sink where the dirty things can sit, undisturbed and safe from children, pets and
unsuspecting adults. This is usually not possible for most soapmakers, so I like to clean up right away.
First, it’s important to remember when cleaning up that raw soap is still very caustic. Treat it as if it
were a lye solution: wear gloves and protective eyewear. Secondly, it is best to avoid washing too
much raw soap down your drains. Like any other grease, over time it can block your pipes. And never
pour raw, unsaponified soap into your drains, since it will harden in your pipes. So, wipe off as much
of the soap as you can with paper towels, before washing with hot, soapy water. I use liquid
dishwashing detergent. I advise against using recycled rags to wipe your raw soap since it can
become a fire hazard in your dryer if you wash/dry things with too much oil. If you want to use your
dishwasher for your utensils & pots, be advised that some soap additives, like essential oils, fragrance
oils and colorants, can linger in your dishwasher for many cycles afterward.
Cutting & Curing Your Soap
Soap is ready to CUT when it is firm enough so it doesn't stick to the mold/knife & soft enough to cut
with ease. It should be the consistency of firm fudge. For some recipes the soap is ready to remove
from the mold at 24 hours, others 2-3 days. When ready, soap should be cut into bars or desired
shapes. It’s a good idea to wear rubber gloves while handling soft soap because the lye may not be
completely neutralized and may be harsh to the skin.
Once unmolded & cut, your soap is now ready to CURE in a well-ventilated, non-sunny location for 4 6 weeks. ROTATE/TURN bars every week or so for best curing. During the cure, residual lye is
neutralized & water evaporates – causing soap to shrink slightly. Therefore, it’s best to wait for the
entire curing period before WRAPPING. A fully cured bar is usually more desirable because it’s
harder & it lasts longer in the shower.
Page 9
Wrapping, Decorating & Packaging
One of the great things about CP soap is that it can be left completely or partially exposed to the air &
it won't adversely affect the soap (whereas melt & pour beads up from moisture in the air). Soap
makers have preferences as to whether they leave their bars unwrapped, partially or completely
wrapped. However you decide to finish your soap, make it unique so it will stand apart from the crowd.
Naked Soap
Unwrapped bars are nice because people can see, feel, and smell the soap
before they buy/use it. The downside is that the soap will eventually get dusty
and dirty if too many people handle it.
Cigar Bands
To protect their soap, many people use paper to make a cigar-type wrapping
band that goes around the center with a label on top so people can pick it up
without dirtying the soap, but still smell and see at least part of the soap. This
soap was also cut with a potato crinkle cutter.
Mini Presents
As much as I like to see and feel soap, I like it to be protected from the elements.
By wrapping your soap in something breathable, you get the benefit of beautiful
presentation that you can smell through. I like to buy rice paper or hand-madelooking paper from an art store & wrap my soap like a mini present (finished with
raffia & a descriptive label). I've also seen CP soap neatly wrapped in fabric with
or without a cigar band.
Soap Balls
Soap balls make great gifts and it's a great way to use those left over bits of soap
left from cutting & trimming. When your CP soap is only 1 or 2 days old and is
still soft, take any remaining pieces and grate them with a cheese grater. Then,
simply form into balls like you would if you were making meatballs. If necessary,
add a little water if you are having a hard time getting the shavings of soap to
stick together. As an added touch, some roll their finished balls in dried herbs or
flower petals.
Soap Cookies
Using cookie cutters in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, you can cut out just
about any shape. You can also top the soap with flowers, shells, nuts or seeds
and pile on a plate to look like cookies. If they look like food, be sure to have a
label that says "not edible!"
Page 10
Soap Chemistry
Soap is any type of “fat” mixed with sodium hydroxide (for bar soaps) or potassium hydroxide (for
liquid soaps). Although soap is simply made, the chemical reaction is complex: an acid (the fats/oils)
& a strong base (a solution of sodium hydroxide & water, also called lye) react to produce soap and
glycerin. This process or reaction is called saponification, and as the fats & oils and the lye solution
come into contact with one another & react, they are saponifying, or making soap. As you stir, the raw
soap mixture changes from a separated thin mixture of watery lye and fats/oils to a thicker, uniform
mixture, and this stage is referred to as Trace (see “What is Trace” section for more info).
How/Why Does Soap Work?
A soap molecule contains two portions: a carbon chain and an ionic end of sodium or potassium. The
carbon chain of the soap molecule is lipophilic, that is it is generally attracted to organic compounds
(attracts fatty compounds) while the ionic sodium or potassium end of the molecule is hydrophilic, that
is it attracts water. Thus, the molecule is simultaneously active for both fatty and watery materials. It is
these concepts of lipophilic and hydrophilic that allows one to understand how soap works. Since
water and the oil produced by the skin (which contains the dirt) do not mix, washing with water alone
will not remove the dirt and oil on the skin. This problem is solved with soap. When washing with
soap, the lipophilic part of the molecule mixes with the oil and the hydrophilic portion of the soap
molecule mixes with water. Therefore, when the soap suds are rinsed away, the oil and dirt are also
removed. (Source: www.alabu.com/soap-stories).
When making soap, it’s very important to understand that different oils/fats have different
saponification rates (aka SAP values) – which refer to how much lye it takes to turn that particular
fat/oil into soap. For this reason, you CANNOT replace or substitute one fat/oil with another in a recipe
without recalculating the SAP value and lye amount.
Calculating saponification or SAP values based on published numbers (from a saponification chart in
a book or on-line) can be a challenge if you are not really good with math. Most people I know,
professional soap makers and home crafters alike, use on-line Lye Calculators. While these
calculators don’t CREATE a recipe for you, they DO help you determine how much liquid and how
much lye should be used with the oils in your recipe. Many companies on-line have lye calculators,
but the best available is from www.thesage.com. It is fairly easy to use and has complete instructions
on the site.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
! Substituting oils/fats & creating new recipes is only recommended once you completely understand
the basics, the chemistry & have made several successful batches of soap.
Page 11
Saponification Value Table
For use in calculating your own recipes.
Oil/Fat in ounces X Saponification Value = Amount of Lye Needed to make soap for that oil.
For multiple oils calculate separately and add lye totals together.
Example - 25oz of coconut oil in my recipe. 25oz X 0.1900 (sap value for coconut oil) = 4.75 oz of lye. It will take 4.75oz of
lye to saponify the oil.
TO CALUCULATE WATER: 6oz. water per 16oz. oil/fat.
Example- 64oz. total oil/fats Ö 16 = 4oz. and 4oz. X 6oz. = 24oz. Water
Oils
Almond, Sweet
Apricot Kernel
Avocado Babassu
Brazil Nut
Beeswax
Canola
Castor
Cocoa Butter
Coconut
Cod Liver
Corn
Cottonseed
Flaxseed
Grapeseed
Hazelnut
Hempseed
Jojoba
Lanolin
Lard
Macadamia Nut
Neem
Olive
Palm Butter
Palm Kernel
Palm
Peanut
Pumpkin Seed
Rapeseed
Rice Bran
Safflower
Sesame Shea Butter
Shortening (Veg)
Soybean
Sunflower
Tallow, Beef
Walnut
Wheat Germ
Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH)
(For Bar soap)
0.1360
0.1350
0.1330
0.1750
0.1750
0.0690
0.1240
0.1286
0.1370
0.1900
0.1326
0.1360
0.1386
0.1357
0.1265
0.1356
0.1345
0.0690
0.0741
0.1380
0.1390
0.1387
0.1340
0.1560
0.1560
0.1410
0.1360
0.1331
0.1240
0.1280
0.1360
0.1330
0.1280
0.1360
0.1350
0.1340
0.1405
0.1353
0.1310
Potassium Hydroxide (KOH)
(Liquid & Whipped Soap)
0.1904
0.1890
0.1862
0.2450
0.2450
0.0966
0.1736
0.1800
0.1918
0.2660
0.1856
0.1904
0.1940
0.1899
0.1771
0.1898
0.1883
0.0966
0.1037
0.1932
0.1946
0.1941
0.1876
0.2184
0.2184
0.1974
0.1904
0.1863
0.1736
0.1792
0.1904
0.1862
0.1792
0.1904
0.1890
0.1876
0.1967
0.1894
0.1834
Page 12
Soap Mathematics
Let’s try calculating how much sodium hydroxide (NaOH, for short) we need for the recipe we’re
making in class. Because it takes a different amount of sodium hydroxide to saponify each oil in our
recipe, we will look at each oil separately.
1. Let’s start by determining how much sodium hydroxide we need for the olive oil.
Referencing the “Recipe CP 101 Soap Worksheet”, we see we’re using 25 oz olive oil in
today’s recipe.
Looking at the chart of saponification values on the previous page, we see that olive oil has a
saponification value of 0.134. This means that it takes 0.134 oz of sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
to turn 1 oz of olive oil into soap. To figure out how much NaOH we need to saponify all 25 oz
of olive oil in our recipe, we’ll multiply the amount of olive oil in our recipe by this saponification
value, like so:
25 𝑜𝑧 𝑜𝑙𝑖𝑣𝑒 𝑜𝑖𝑙×
0.134 𝑜𝑧 𝑁𝑎𝑂𝐻
= 3.35 𝑜𝑧 𝑁𝑎𝑂𝐻
1 𝑜𝑧 𝑜𝑙𝑖𝑣𝑒 𝑜𝑖𝑙
2. Now, let’s figure out how much sodium hydroxide is required for the coconut oil in our recipe:
how much coconut oil is in today’s recipe? 18 oz
what is the saponification value for coconut oil? 0.1900
_18_oz coconut oil × _0.1900_SAP value for coconut oil = _3.42_oz NaOH
3.
Let’s determine how much sodium hydroxide is required for the palm oil in our recipe:
amount of palm oil in today’s recipe = 18 oz
SAP value for palm oil = 0.1410
_18_oz palm oil × _0.1410_SAP value for palm oil = _2.538_oz NaOH
4.
Finally, let’s calculate how much sodium hydroxide is required to saponify the castor oil in
our recipe.
amount of castor oil in today’s recipe = 3 oz
SAP value for castor oil = 0.1286
_3_oz castor oil * 0.1286 SAP value for castor oil = _0.3858_oz NaOH
5.
Almost there! Let’s figure out how sodium hydroxide we need for the entire recipe. Simply
add up the amount of NaOH required for each oil
3.35 oz NaOH + 3.42 oz NaOH + 2.538 oz NaOH + 0.3858 oz NaOH = 9.6938 oz
(Olive)
(Coconut)
(Palm)
(Castor)
(All Oils)
Great! Now we know we need 9.69 oz NaOH to turn our entire batch of oils into soap. But do we
want to saponify 100% of our oils?
Page 13
What is Superfatting?
Superfatting is a term used to indicate the excess amount of oil in the soap recipe. Put another way,
it’s the amount of oil that remains unsaponified. Chemically speaking, during saponification, lye
molecules join with fatty acid molecules to form soap. If you have the exact same amount of each, the
result is 100% saponified soap with no extra lye or oil. In a soap that is superfatted, there are more
molecules of oil then molecules of lye, so there are oils left in the final soap.
The purpose of superfatting is to make sure there is no excess lye (or free lye) in the soap, and to
give the soap added moisturizing properties. The downside of superfatting is that if the soap is not
used within the shelf-life of the oil, the free oil molecules will eventually turn rancid and the soap will
go bad. Bad soap smells a bit like old oil and can change color (also referred to as the “dreaded
orange spots”).
I currently superfat at 5% (put another way, I do a 5% lye discount).
IMPORTANT NOTE:
! For obvious reasons, unless you have the exact saponification value of the fat/oil you are using
(from a laboratory, not from a chart or lye calculator), it is not advised to attempt a soap recipe that
has no free oil. If you are off AT ALL in your calculations, you will end up with a bar with “free lye” that
could be very harsh to skin.
More Soap Mathematics
Let’s return to our work in progress. We know how much sodium hydroxide it will take to saponify
100% of our oils. Let’s figure out how much sodium hydroxide is required if we superfat our recipe at
5%.
How much lye is required for the entire recipe? _9.69_ oz
What is our desired superfat (aka lye discount)? 5%
For 5% superfat, we need to discount our lye by 5%. Another way to say this is that we want to only
use 95% of the recommended lye amount. (100% - 5% super fat = 95% recommended lye usage.
For math purposes, we can rewrite 95% as 0.95).
.95 × _9.69_ oz total lye required = _9.21__
What do you notice when you compare this to the Majestic Mountain Sage printout on page 6?
In the recipe that we’re using in class today, we’re going with the Majestic Mountain Sage lye
calculator number for 5% excess fat, which is: 9.16 oz__
Page 14
Soapmaking Oils/Fats
Homemade soap can range from a soft, spongy bar, which can disappear rather quickly in your
shower, to a firm, hard, long-lasting bar. The natural color of your soap can be white, yellow, tan,
brown, gray, and even somewhat translucent. Your soap can have very small bubbles that barely
lather or a rich, creamy sudsy lather. Homemade soap can be drying or moisturizing. All of these
factors are influenced by what types of oils you use and how much unsaponified fat remains in the
finished bar (also known as Superfatting).
Coconut Oil: This is the #1 oil for soap makers. Coconut oil produces a hard bar of soap with large,
creamy bubbles. Although some soaps are made with 100% coconut oil, too high a percentage is
thought to produce a soap that is drying to the skin. It is best kept at under 35% of total oils. Sold in
two different melting points: 76° F or 92° F. The 76° is softer at room temperature (can be
soupy/messy in the summer) so I use the 92°.
Palm Oil: Used as a hardener in “all vegetable” recipes (a substitute for beef tallow). Palm oil
produces a creamy soap with small bubbles that clean well. Many commercial soaps use palm oil as a
base but it is best utilized in combination with coconut & olive. It traces quickly & makes a hard, longlasting bar. Lately I’ve been using the “Palm Shortening” from www.missionpeaksoap.com – it doesn’t
need to be stirred before measuring.
Olive Oil: A stable oil high in oleic acid, has great “marketing appeal” and is commonly used for soap
making. It can be used up to 100% of total fats for a very mild bar of soap. Drawbacks are that it takes
a long time to trace, the lather will be very low, and the bar tends to get a bit gooey in the shower.
Soap made from a majority of olive oil is known as “castile soap” and is the gentlest soap you can
make (good for babies & those with sensitive skin). There are different grades of olive oil: Extra Virgin
(first press), Virgin, Grade A, Grade B, and Pomace (last press from the pits). If it doesn’t say any of
the above on a label, chances are it is grade A or B. All types make perfectly good soap, but small
variations in stirring time might occur with different grades (so be sure to keep good notes on your
recipe sheet as to where you buy your oils & exactly what type they are).
Castor Oil: Consists of 90% ricinoleic fatty acids. In soap, this means it produces a creamy lather and
adds conditioning properties, but it also softens soap so be careful not to add too much. You want the
creamy, lather boosting benefits without softening your soap too much. Suggested use level for bar
soaps is 1-5% of the total oils.
Cocoa Butter: Cocoa Butter is from the fruit of the Cacao tree which grows in tropical regions
throughout the world. The butter is extracted from the seed kernels and is further refined to yield a
tan/yellow colored butter with strong but pleasant chocolate odor. A small amount of the chocolate
odor *might* come through in your finished soap, but you can buy deodorized which is *nearly*
odorless. Use up to 10% of the total oils.
Shea Butter: Shea Butter (aka African Karite Nut Butter) is from the nut of the Mangifolia tree in
Central Africa. The soft, pliant “butter” is expeller pressed (hopefully w/out solvents) making a lipid
suitable for soaps and toiletries. Shea Butter is a great superfatting oil and makes a luxurious soap.
Shea butter will boost the lather of your soap when used at 10% of the total oils. (Note: Avocado oil
with also boost lather at 10%.)
NOTE: Nearly any animal fat or vegetable/nut oil or butter can be used to make soap.
The most common non-animal soapmaking oils are coconut, palm & olive. As you get more experienced and
vary the oils to create your own recipes (don’t forget to recalculate the lye amount), you’ll notice small
differences in the properties of the soap. Be sure to keep good notes!
Page 15
Scenting Cold Process Soap
Cold process soap can be left unscented or can be scented using essential oils or fragrance oils. I
prefer to use essential oils to keep my soap natural, and that’s mostly what I teach in this natural soap
making class. Some information on fragrance oils can be found at the bottom of this page.
Essential Oils
WHAT ARE ESSENTIAL OILS?
Essential Oils (E.O.s) are the concentrated, fragrant, essence of plants. These volatile extracts are
obtained by distillation or expression from flowers, citrus peels, grasses, seeds, leaves, roots, barks,
fruits, mosses, and resins. If you want your soap to be “all natural” you will need to use essential oils
for scenting (or leave the scent out entirely).
HOW MUCH TO USE?
Since essential oils all come from different plants (and parts of plants), they vary quite a bit in intensity
& strength. Therefore, different amounts of different essential oils are recommended. You will have to
experiment and keep good notes to find the perfect amount of each oil that you prefer, but here are
some basic guidelines to get you started:
.9 ounces of CITRUS essential oils per pound of oil/fat in your recipe
(orange, tangerine, lime, lemon, grapefruit, bergamot, etc.) NOTE: If you use a folded citrus (5x or 10x), you can use less – about .5 ounces.
.5 ounces of MINT & SPICE essential oils per pound of oil/fat in your recipe
(mint, geranium, rosemary, patchouli, bitter almond (benzaldehyde), etc.)
.7 ounces of MOST OTHER essential oils per pound of oil/fat in your recipe
(lavender, litsea cubeba, cedarwood, etc.)
DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE BASIC GUIDELINES ABOVE:
1. Add up the total oils in your recipe (in ounces) and come up with a total ounces batch weight.
Divide that number by 16 (since there are ounces in a pound) and you will get your total batch
weight. For my recipe, it is 64 oz. of oil weight, which is 4 pounds.
2. Locate the essential oil above and multiply the number by 4 (total pounds of oil).
For lavender, it would be: .7 x 4 = 2.8 oz. lavender for the entire 4 lb. batch. (=1.8%)
TESTED SCENT COMBINATIONS FOR 4 POUND BATCHES:
• MOJITO: 2 oz. lime & 1 oz. spearmint
• ORANGE BLOSSOM: 1 oz. petitgrain & 2 oz. sweet orange
• LAVENDER CITRUS: 1.5 oz. lavender & 1.5 oz. any citrus
• LAVENDER MINT: 2 oz. lavender & 1 oz. peppermint
• SPEARMINT ROSEMARY: 2 oz. spearmint & .5 oz. rosemary
• YLANG YLANG BERGAMOT: 1 oz. ylang ylang & 2 oz. bergamot
• LEMON POPPY SEED: 2 oz. lemon & 1 oz. litsea cubeba (or lemongrass)
• PINE & CEDAR: 1.8 oz. fir needle & 1.2 oz. cedarwood
Fragrance Oils
Fragrance Oils (F.O.s) are often used by soap makers to scent CP soap. F.O.s are considered
synthetic (they are not considered natural & are created in a lab or by a perfumer). If you want scents
like Mango Coconut or Cucumber Melon, your only option is to use fragrances. Be sure to purchase
“cosmetic grade” F.O.s which means they are skin safe & tested in diluted amounts on the skin. Be
aware that some may cause seizing (a reaction between the F.O. & the lye). Seizing causes the soap
to harden quickly in the pot. Try to buy fragrance oils from a company that tests them in CP soap.
Page 16
Using Natural Additives for Color & Texture
Although coloring your CP soap can be rather unpredictable, mixing & playing with color is one of the
best ways to make your soap unique! The following is a list of commonly used natural ingredients that
can add color and texture to your home made soap.
If you are okay using colors that are not 100% natural, I recommend PIGMENTS (Ultramarines
& Oxides) and NOT dyes. Pigments are my favorite soap color category and give you the color
you see whereas dyes can change/morph.
Alfalfa Powder (light green – ½ tsp./lb.)
Alkanet Root (pink/blue/purple – pH meter)
Annatto Seeds (beautiful yellow/orange)
Calendula Petals (retain their color in soap)
Chamomile Powder (yellow/gold)
Chlorophyll, Liquid (light green - fades)
Cinnamon (beige/brown – ½ tsp./lb. to swirl)
Clays (white, light green, beige, yellow, pink, red)
Cocoa Pwd (brown) (swirl: add 2 tsp./2 C soap)
Comfrey Root (deep sage green – 1 tsp./lb.)
Goldenseal (yellow – pricey $$)
Indigo Root Powder (blue - be sure to mix well))
Hibiscus (red/purple)
Mustard Seed, Ground (yellow)
Madder Root (tomato red)
Parsley Powder (nice medium green)
Orange Peel Powder (orange - gritty)
Saffron (yellow – pricey $$)
Paprika (peach/salmon – ½ tsp./lb.)
Sandalwood Powder (orange/red/maroon)
Sage Powder (sage green/tan)
Spinach Powder (pale green) – specks
Spirulina Powder (has oceany smell – pricey $$)
Turmeric Powder (really nice gold/yellow)
•
How much herb/color you use is a matter of preference, but a good place to start is 1 tsp. of natural color for
1 lb. of oil/fat. Too much color is indicated when the lather or the bubbles are no longer white. This could
stain your tub, your skin and your towels.
•
When using herbs & spices mainly for color, some people mix them into a paste with a small amount of raw
soap from the soap pot and then stir that mixture back into the main pot. Others use an herb-infused oil (for
stronger color) or mix herbs with a little oil right before making the soap (be sure to factor these last two
methods into your oil calculations).
•
One of the best ways to use herbs for texture in soap is to add dry, finely powdered herbs to the oils before
adding the lye/water. Use anywhere from 1 tablespoon to ¼ cup dried herbs to 1 lb. soap (this refers to the
oil/fat weight). Limit coarsely ground herbs to 1 or 2 tablespoons otherwise the soap could be too scratchy –
it doesn’t take much!
•
The color of your base oils/fats will affect the final color of your soap. For example, if you use soybean oil
which is slightly yellow and add blue color, you might end up with greenish-blue.
•
Most vanilla extracts & vanilla fragrances will turn the soap brown. Depending on the shade, it may look nice
but quite often brown soap is not appealing because it's the color of what you are usually trying to wash off!
OTHER RESOURCES FOR COLORING SOAP:
www.thenovastudio.com/product/coloring-soap-naturally-ebook/
www.thenovastudio.com/product/color-confidence-ebook/
Page 17
#1 Soap Antioxidant
ROSEMARY OLEORESIN EXTRACT (ROE)
Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (aka ROE) is an antioxidant that is used to extend the shelf life of
handcrafted soap. Since most handmade soap is superfatted (the soap has extra/free oil in it), the
shelf life of the soap is determined by the shelf life of the excess oils. To extend the shelf life of your
soap, we recommend using ROE and keeping your oils in a cool/dark location. Note: ROE not the
same thing as “Rosemary Essential Oil” or “Rosemary Extract.”
How much do you need (what is the usage rate)?
-For a 4-lb. batch of oil (a single batch), use 2 grams of ROE (approx. 1/2 tsp).
-For an 8-lb. bath of oil (a double batch), use 4 grams of ROE (approx 1 tsp).
(or you can calculate the amount yourself based on using .1% of your total oils).
How do you use it?
Simply add ROE to your oils after melting (before combining with the lye).
Storage: For the longest shelf life of your ROE, we recommend storing ROE in a refrigerator.
Molds & Scales
Many things can be used as soap molds; everything from old shoe boxes (great for beginners), to
Tupperware containers, to fancy divider molds (see below). The main thing to keep in mind is how you
will get the soap out. Most molds need to be lined so the soap doesn’t stick & to ensure that it will
come out. Below is some info. to keep in mind.
Lining Molds
When using wooden or cardboard molds, I line them with Reynolds-Brand Lined Freezer Paper
(with the shiny side coming into contact with the soap). Some people use plastic garbage bags or kitty
liners but bags often cause wrinkles in the soap. I wouldn’t recommend greasing molds like many
books say, because any “fat” you use to grease will most likely saponify & turn into soap – making it
stick even more. If you don’t mind using Petroleum-based products (personally I don’t like to use
them), I’ve heard that mineral oil will not saponify, but your soap might have a film on it afterwards.
How Much Soap = How Big a Mold?
It's always tricky to determine how big of a mold is needed for a batch of soap. One recommendation
is that you need 3½ cups volume for each pound of oils/fat in your recipe. You can test your mold with
water to see how much volume it will hold but this will only work with plastic molds that are water tight.
Scales & Weighing Ingredients
While you can get away with a cheap manual kitchen scale for some bath & body products,
soapmaking from scratch is different. It is *really* important when making soap that you have an
accurate way to measure all your ingredients (especially the lye). People pay hundreds and
thousands of dollars for super accurate scales, but in my opinion, a medium priced (around $50) scale
can adequately handle what we need to make soap. I have researched scales in this price range
heavily & found one that works great for weighing ingredients for soap, lotions, and everything I make.
RECOMMENDED SCALE: The My Weigh KD-7000, with a 15-pound capacity, it measures in grams,
ounces & kilograms. It can handle everything needed for a 4-pound batch, and even when our recipe
is doubled, (8 pounds of oil) it handles everything, no problem. Be sure to read the instructions that
come with the scale & save the lifetime warrantee card with your receipt. The Nova Studio does sell
these scales & powder A/C adaptors at the studio.
Page 18
Troubleshooting
Making soap is not a precise art and from time to time, you may experience some unexpected results.
In most cases, failed batches are due to inaccurate measuring of the ingredients (do you have a good
scale?). It’s easy to make a mistake when weighing, so when making soap be sure to give it your full
attention & focus. Here is a list of common problems, & suggestions for how to deal with them from
Melinda Coss, author of the book “Gourmet Soaps Made Easy.”
1. Curdling: If you have ever poured sour milk into your coffee you will have a good idea of the visual
appearance of “curdling.” This is quite common in soaps containing milk and these can successfully
be whisked into a smooth mixture. Use an electric whisk to do this and work quickly. Be prepared to
pour the soap quite quickly as trace will speed up considerably. Curdling sometimes occurs when you
mix the fats and sodium hydroxide (lye) at a very high temperature.
2. Seizing: If your soap mixture appears to be setting in the pan it is often due to a reaction caused by
the fragrance of essential oils. Pour the soap (or spoon it) immediately into your mold and do your
best to flatten the surface. Your basic soap should be fine to use, just not as pretty as it should be.
3. Crumbly soap: This can be caused by too little water (or too much lye). Your final soap will be
difficult to cut without breaking and could prove to be quite harsh. Test it using Ph drops – if it turns
bright pink, it’s caustic!! If it’s clear (not pink), you can rebatch it or grate it & use it as laundry soap.
4. Separation: This becomes apparent after you have poured your soap into the mold. A significant
layer of oil or grease sits on top of the mixture. If the layer of oil is only thin, it is probably caused by
the essential oils and will be re-absorbed during the curing process. If the layer is thick, you have a
caustic soap that should be discarded. This has probably been caused by an excess of sodium
hydroxide (lye) in the initial mixture.
5. No trace: Your soap can take hours and hours to reach trace so, if you are sure your ingredients
were weighed correctly, don’t worry about it. Leave it as long as you can, stirring frequently and then
pour into the mold. It will trace eventually.
6. Soft soap after several days: Some combinations of oils (particularly sunflower and olive) seem to
take a lifetime to harden. Too much castor oil can also cause a soft soap. An excess of water can also
prolong the time it takes the soap to harden or you may have included too little sodium hydroxide
(lye). Leave the soap in the mold, if it hardens eventually, it should be all right to use.
7. Small white chunks in soap: These are caused by an excess of sodium hydroxide (lye) or
inadequate stirring. The white areas are caustic and the soap should be discarded.
8. Small bubbles of liquid trapped in hard soap: Again, this is caused by excessive amounts of
sodium hydroxide (lye) or inadequate stirring. The liquid in the bubbles is caustic, discard the soap.
9. Soap has turned to jelly: This looks like a big problem but some soapmakers prefer their soap to
reach this ‘gel stage’ as it does result in a harder bar of soap. The cause is not clear but I suspect it is
related to overheating, which can happen as a reaction to some essential and fragrance oils. It also
tends to happen more frequently when you are making large batches of soap.
10. Soap will not release from mold: Put it in the freezer for an hour or so and try again. If you
forgot to grease your mold, this can cause the problem but freezing certainly helps.
11. White powder forms on the surface of the soap: This is called “Soda Ash”. This is very
common & quite harmless. If you don’t like the way it looks, scrape or wash the powder off the soap
before wrapping it. The problem can be reduced by placing plastic wrap directly on the surface of the
soap after it has been poured into the mold, and leaving it on for about 3-4 days.
Page 19
COLD PROCESS 101 SOAP MAKING
RECOMMENDED ON-LINE SUPPLIERS
CERTIFIED LYE (Spring Valley, CA) www.certified-lye.com 619-548-2378 info@certified-lye.com
LYE High-quality sodium hydroxide. They package in 20-ounce plastic containers, w/re-usable screw lids to
prevent moisture. 5% Discount if you mention “Student of The Nova Studio.” The discount comes in the form
of a refund after your order.
COLUMBUS FOODS (DesPlaines, IL) www.columbusfoods.com 800-322-6457
OILS: If you are looking to order oils, this company specializes in oils for soap makers. They have a large
selection & great customer service. Oil sizes from 7 pounds - 50 pounds.
ESSENTIAL DEPOT (Sebring, FL) www.essentialdepot.com 866-840-2495
LYE This is the company we purchase our lye from. They just moved to a larger facility and are starting to carry
an even larger selection of soapmaking products. This is one of our recommended affiliate companies
ESSENTIAL WHOLESALE (Oregon) www.essentialwholesale.com 866-252-9639
ESSENTIAL OILS & MISC: Huge selection of product bases, unique ingredients & EOs. Great info. on website
about essential oils & aromatherapy. Use code nova05 for 5% off ALL on-line orders.
FROM NATURE WITH LOVE (Hawleyville, CT) www.fromnaturewithlove.com
OILS, HERBS, ESSENTIAL OILS, ETC.: Save 10% off your online order by entering discount code EDU149 into
the discount code field at checkout. Excludes already discounted items, bulk sizes listed as not being eligible for
a discount, the purchase of gift certificates, shipping, handling or taxes.
GLORY BEE FOODS (Oregon) www.glorybee.com 800-456-7923
ESSENTIAL OILS & MISC: Great Selection & prices on soap/candle making/bee keeping supplies. For 10% off
st
1 Order, Mention “PRJ0000026” in the comments section of the online order form.
KELSEI’S CREATIONS (Texas) www.kelseiscreations.com e-mail: maxr@pix.net
DIVIDER MOLD: Rita sells plastic divider molds that don’t have to be lined (but they are a bit difficult to remove
the soap from – so it’s a trade off). The one I use is the “all-plastic 18-bar soap mold” with dividers, perfect for a
4-pound batch. She has agreed to give Nova Students a 15% discount off first order IF they mention the
code: TNS68 in the message box when ordering (don't forget or you won’t get discount). ORDER NOTE:
Students sometimes report difficulty ordering & hearing back in a timely manner.
MISSION PEAK SOAP (Fremont, CA) www.missionpeaksoap.com 510-795-1326
BASE OILS, MOLDS, ETC.: Where we buy our coconut, palm, castor oils. You can save on shipping if you pick
up your order in Fremont. When ordering on-line, get $5 off ANY order over $50, by using Voucher Code:
nova112363333 in the shopping cart. The owner David Critchfield is a close friend us & used to teach soap
making classes at The Nova Studio for nearly a decade (but he’s now retired from teaching).
SOAP EQUIPMENT.COM (Hagerstown, IN) www.soapequipment.com 317-467-8645
PROFESSIONAL SOAP MOLDS: Custom designed, professional soap making equipment. If you enter their site
through our site link when ordering & enter code NSCustomer in the coupon/discount code field at checkout;
you'll save 5% off ALL on-line orders. Note: The Code NovaStudio is case sensitive & must be entered exactly
as written. This is one of our recommended affiliate companies.
TKB TRADING (Oakland, CA) www.tkbtrading.com 510-451-9011
COLORS: Owner Kaila Westerman (former Nova Studio teacher) sells all types of colors (many other
companies often buy from her, so why not go directly to the source?). For CP Soap, I prefer to use PIGMENTS
(ULTRAMARINES & OXIDES). When ordering on-line, use special discount/coupon code “novastudio” for 10%
off your orders! She does not have a retail location, but you can do a will-call shipping option to save $$.
WHEN ORDERING, PLEASE ORDER THROUGH OUR WEBSITE LINKS AT
THENOVASTUDIO.COM/SUPPLIERS. THIS HELPS TO SUPPORT THE STUDIO, AT NO COST TO YOU ☺
Page 20

Cold Process Soap Making 101 Handouts

Transcription

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