TOTALLY WIRED
Transcription
TOTALLY WIRED
TOTALLY WIRED AsiaLIFE volume 27 •Foster personal ethics and social responsibility via the character education program of the Ontario Ministry of Education (Canada). •Maintain a healthy and active lifestyle. •Cultivate life skills, leadership and other skills via a multifaceted training program. •Offer French as a second language for students. •Celebrate cultural diversity by teaching the traditional values of global citizenship. Telephone: (08) 54 123 456 - (08) 54 121 549 Fax: (08) 54 121 934 Email: enquiry@cis.edu.vn Website: www.cis.edu.vn FROM KINDERGARTEN (AGE 4) TO GRADE 10 •100% Canadian certified teachers directly recuited by the District School Board of Niagara (Ontario Province - Canada). • Curriculum provided by the District School Board of Niagara and Ontario Secondary School Diploma. • Curriculum appraised and approved by the Ministry of Education and Training of Vietnam. • Education quality annually monitored and inspected by the District School Board of Niagara under the direct management of HCMC Department of Education and Training. • State-of-the-art culture & sports center outfitted with modern equipment designed for students. • Separate boarding areas for male and female students with the best academic and extra-curricular programs, facilities and management. • An international environment with students from over 20 countries. Exclusive privilege policies in 2010-2011 Appropriate and stable tuition fee up to 2013 Residential Quarter: 13C Nguyen Van Linh Street., Admission Office: SC39 – SD40, Panorama Area, Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh District, HCMC Nguyen Duc Canh Street, Phu My Hung, District 7, HCMC 15 18 22 47 56 61 4 Editorial 6 News & Events 12 Q & A with Dinh Q. Le 15 Streetsmart: Vo Thi Sau 18 Photo Essay: Jade de Brito Lopes 22 Plugged in to Pop Culture 38 Hiking Hong Kong 40 A French Foodie's Return 43 Sterling's Saigon 44 'Tis the Season for Fruit 48 Leonard Cohen Comes to Cambodia 50 Bamboo Business 52 Chasing Qi 54 Introducing the Dentist 56 Quasar Khanh: A Retrospective 61 Delightful Doppelgangers 66 The List 110 The Map 112 The Back ALL THE COMFORTS OF HOME. ALL THE EXPERTISE OF INTERCONTINENTAL. editorial tom dichristopher There are always concerns when we dedicate a feature section to a topic that is firmly rooted in Vietnamese experience and outside the realm of much of our readership’s knowledge. Will the features engage people? Will they fall flat? This month was one of those months. For sure, most people bypass the 40 or so Vietnamese television channels in pursuit of some after-work entertainment, and it’s the odd foreigner whose iPod playlist contains local music. But once the copy was in, we put our concerns to bed. Even if you’ve never watched a Vietnamese television show or film, never listened to a local pop track or attempted to decipher a blog written in the native tongue, we think you’ll find the Pop Culture Issue one of our most entertaining. As is often the case when writing about a country whose culture is foreign to us, context is everything. Understanding why Vietnamese audiences are buying tickets for a certain movie or divining which blog is attracting major traffic helps us understand our adopted country. More change is afoot in the pages of AsiaLIFE this month. Our revamped food section now features the monthly gastronomical musings of James Beard Award-winning writer Richard Sterling, as well as contributions from foodie Alexandra Karina. We’ve also overhauled our new restaurant articles, bringing you a few new and notable restaurants, cafes or bars every 30 days. AsiaLIFE also bid a fond farewell to Ginny Becker, who has served as deputy editor since January 2009. Ginny’s sunny disposition and unflagging dedication to the job will be missed in the office. A big thank you to our freelancers, who have been producing some of the best material in our pages over the last few months. Since revamping our format earlier this year, we’ve been flooded with pitches and introductions from writers. Keep em’ coming. These contributions have lent more variety to AsiaLIFE, and we hope to keep delivering diverse content to our readership. Corrections: In last month’s travel article “Hotel Story” Fusion Maia Danang appeared as Fusion Maya Danang later in the article. The former is correct. Also M2Boutique should have appeared as M2 Boutique. In “The Curriculum Question” AsiaLIFE reported that the Australian Consulate recommends British International School’s curriculum as the closest match to the Australian national system. The Australian Consulate contacted AsiaLIFE to clarify that it does not endorse one school over another. Find AsiaLIFE articles on Vietnewsonline.vn 4 asialife HCMC cover Art Direction - 365 Creative Studio Photography - Fred Wissink Model - Chris Newell Richard Sterling Richard Sterling is the author of more than 15 books and scores of articles on food and travel. The New York Times book page dubbed him “Indiana Jones of Gastronomy” for his willingness to go anywhere and court any danger for a good meal and good story. He has been honoured by the James Beard Foundation and International Gourmand Society for food writing, and holds the Lowell Thomas Award and two ForeWord Awards for travel literature. Seeks Editor AsiaLIFE is seeking a deputy editor to join our editorial department. The deputy editor will contribute stories and copy writing and assist with copy editing and proofreading each month. Some experience in journalism, copy writing, editing and/or proofreading is necessary. Please send a cover letter, resume and clips (if available) to tom@asialifehcmc.com. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences knows how to make you feel right at home. For one night or years, our fully furnished apartments are a great choice for those who understand that unique and enriching experiences should be part of every day. This 31-floor serviced residential tower provides an exclusive and innovative 'shop, live, work, entertain' lifestyle in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Our range of 1-bedroom to 3-bedroom apartments offer panoramic views of the city and a full range of luxury amenities and services, provided by the world renowned InterContinental brand. For reservations please call +84 8 35208888 Corner Nguyen Du & Hai Ba Trung Streets, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam saigon@interconti.com intercontinental.com/saigon icasr.com volume 27 NEWS Performing Arts Academy Summer Camp The Performing Arts Academy of HCMC will be hosting its 2nd Annual Summer Arts Camp from July 5 to 30. Participants will learn music fundamentals through games and activities, play songs on the keyboard, do arts and crafts, perform plays, participate in instrumental workshops, dance, sing and much more. Session one for kids 3 to 5 years old takes place mornings from 8 to 11am, while kids 6 to 10 years old can enrol for session two afternoons from 12 to 3pm. Email info@paa.com.vn or call 6281 9679 for more information or to sign up now. Early registrations qualify for discounts. Saigon Saints’ AFL Grand Final Brunch The Saigon Saints have announced that tickets will soon go on sale for the club’s massively popular annual AFL Grand Final Brunch at HCM City’s Sheraton Hotel, which will take place this year on Saturday September 25 from 9:30am to 3:30pm. A live showing of the AFL Grand Final, a five-star brunch, beer, wine and an auction of authentic AFL memorabilia are all included. Tables of 10 are USD $600. All proceeds go to the Loreto Vietnam Australia programme. Sponsorship packages are also available. Call Darren on 091 380 3517. Massimo Ferrari Work Shirt Sale Bespoke menswear boutique Massimo Ferrari is offering a promotion on custom-made shirts through June 15. The promotion is geared towards refreshing customers’ work shirt stock, with three price scales available. The Ambassador package offers 12 pieces in any style and colour in the pre-selected fabrics by Massimo Ferrari (USD $720), while The Executive includes six shirts ($450) and The Apprentice includes three shirts ($255). Call Massimo Ferrari Bespoke at 3930 6212 to arrange an appointment for an in-office fitting at your office or an in-store consultation at 42A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3. Dunes Course at Danang Golf Club Opens for Play The Danang Golf Club recently revealed its new minimalist 18- hole Dunes Course The course features a links-style layout that weaves its way through rugged sand dunes that trundle down to Danang Golf Club. Set amid 260 hectares of tropical linksland, Greg Norman Golf Course Design (GNGCD) crafted the Dunes Course in the spirit of the world’s most recognizable links, including the Moonah Course at The National in Australia and Doonbeg in Ireland, GNGCD designs that have raked in awards for their creativity, quality and environmental harmony. The course’s signature hole— the par-3 16th—backs right up against a stretch of beach that West Coast Dental Forbes magazine voted one of the world’s 10 most luxurious in 2005. Also of note is the par-5 10th, which snakes between some of the highest dunes on the course and is angled toward the iconic Marble Mountains. The Dunes Course gives the region two tracks, including the Colin Montgomerie-designed Montgomerie Links next door. A third layout, by three-time Masters champion Nick Faldo, will soon break ground next to a bay less than an hour north of Danang. When complete, Danang Golf Club will also feature a 3,800-square-metre clubhouse by renowned Australian architecture firm HASSELL; a comprehensive, technologically sophisticated golf academy; four- and five-star hotels; and multiple residential enclaves totaling up to 300 luxury homes. For more information visit www.dananggolfclub.com. Hanoi Dragons Take Indochine Rugby Cup The Hanoi Dragons have won this year’s annual Indochine Rugby Cup for the first time in more than 10 years. On May 8 at Ha Dong Stadium in Hanoi, the team won the contact tournament, beating the Saigon Geckos in the first game of the day 5-0. Overall, Hanoi had three wins and one loss, coming in their second match against Saigon—a 12-14 defeat. There was also a touch tournament, won by the Bangkok Southerners. D’Light Opens Its Doors D’Light, a new bar, restaurant and lounge has opened at 5E Nguyen Sieu between Hai Ba Trung and Thi Sach in District 1. Open daily from 4pm until late, this venue offers Western and Asian food, including grilled steak, pasta and pizza, with prices ranging from USD $2 to $6. Happy Hour specials are offered from 4 to 7pm every day with a free bar snack included. Bar Lounge Ala Mezon Opens New bar lounge Ala Mezon opened for business last month at 10 Chu Manh Trinh between Nguyen Du and Ly Tu Trong. Located just behind the Sofitel Plaza, Ala Mezon features a wine bar, lounge, private rooms and a rooftop terrace. It offers a large selection of wines by the glass, sake, sochu and a cocktail list, as well as French and Japanese influenced finger foods. Open from 5pm until late. ALL Brand Launches in Vietnam Chop Chop Chinese Delivery Opens Western-style Chinese food—complete with the fortune cookie and to-go box—is now just a phone call away with the arrival of Chop Chop. The new delivery-only service brings the old Chinese favourites to HCM City: General Tso’s chicken, orange beef, moo shu pork, Szechuan-style wontons in peanut sauce and about a dozen other dishes. SMS orders to 093 836 3030, or phone them in to Chop Chop at 3826 9135. For menus and more information, visit www.chopchopvietnam.com. 6 asialife HCMC Westcoast International Dental Clinic has revealed the winners of the 2010 International Smiles Art Contest. The overall country winner is Hoang Diep, who is 6 years old and goes to Stamford Grammer School. In second place is Sylvie Allen, age 6, Hanoi International Kindergarten, Hanoi. Seo Yeon Kwak who is 10 years old and goes to ABC International school scored third place. Westcoast thanks all schools and students who participated in the contest. We received more than 1000 entries, and it was extremely hard to choose the winners. Westcoast is looking forward to next year’s art competition and urges even more schools and children to get involved. Last month designers Stephanie Ralu and Anne Laurence launched ALL, their new brand of women’s fashion, at L’Usine in District 1. Inspired by Joan Jett-era 80s touches like high waists, marked shoulders and androgynous elements, Ralu says the collection’s audience is “the working woman who stayed in touch with her adolescent side.” Ralu and Laurence have concocted the collection with many occasions in mind. ALL encompasses work wear in tailored fabrics with modern cuts like carrot pants and tuxedo jackets, as well as more casual shirts, jackets and cotton shorts. ALL’s evening wear includes many items in silk with discrete details such as sequins, nail heads and embroidery. “We like to say it’s for a woman who is able to go to work, to a rock concert and to the opera in the same week, dressed in ALL and comfortable in her clothing,” says Ralu. asialife HCMC 7 class on Saturday, June 19 starting at 10am for 500,000++ per person. Call 3824 1555 or email fb@sofitelsaigon.com.vn. EVENTS International Food Festival in Vung Tau Vietnam’s southern coastal city of Vung Tau will host an International Food Festival from Wednesday July 21 to Sunday July 25. All 63 Vietnamese provinces will feature local specialties in markets and food stalls, and more than 80 countries will present a diverse array of international cuisines. The ambitious festival will stretch three kilometers along Thuy Van Beach and aims to set a Guinness World record as the world’s lengthiest food event. In addition to indulging in the gastronomic delights, visitors can also enjoy food-eating contests, displays of culinary and bartending prowess, carnival parades, circus performances, Vietnamese folk games and fireworks. Vung Tau expects to welcome thousands of domestic tourists and international visitors and hopes that a successful inaugural year will signal the beginning of an annual tradition. For more information, visit www.worldfoodfestival.vn. Pedagogic Sports Day Fun and sport is on offer for the whole family at the Pedagogic Sports Day at District 2’s Parkland Country Club on Sunday June 13 from 9am until 3pm. Activities include an initiation to scuba diving, soccer, water games, fitness training, relaxation and salsa dancing. Dr. Michel Guillaume will host a conference about the worldwide obesity epidemic, and an organic snack, beverage and dietetic lunch will also be provided. Tickets cost 8 asialife HCMC 490,000 VND for adults and 290,000 VND for children (discounted for Parklands members). Please book and register one week in advance. Call 3898 9000 or email pcc@parklandvn.com. Dumpling Festival at Ocean Palace To mark International Children’s Day on June 1, Café Central An Dong will host a fair for youngsters including games with prizes. Take a photo with a costumed pig and clown, and enjoy a buffet filled with sweet desserts, ice-cream and more. Call 3833 6688, email services@ windsorplazahotel.com or visit www.windsorplazahotel.com. Royal Wedding Fair The Royal Wedding Fair will be held at the Jade Ballroom at HCM City’s Windsor Plaza Hotel from July 2 to 4 from 11am until 9pm each day. Wedding dresses by international and local designers, professional photographers, jewellery, fresh flower bouquets, wedding cakes, honeymoon packages and more will be exhibited. The fair will include a fashion show featuring attire for brides, grooms and the entire wedding party, and giveaways including hundreds of vouchers. Every guest who books their wedding at the Windsor Plaza Hotel will receive 10 per cent off. Call 3833 6688, email services@ windsorplazahotel.com or visit weddingfair.windsorplazahotel. com. Children’s Fair at Windsor Plaza Travel Writing Workshop To celebrate Dumpling Festival, or Duan Wu Jie, set on the 5th day of the 5th month of the lunar year, Ocean Palace is hosting its Gourmet Dumpling Festival from June 7 to 16. Three kinds of dumplings will be made, including glutinous rice dumpling with meat and salty egg yolk, granary dumpling and glutinous rice dumpling with red bean paste, costing 50,000 to 80,000 VND per dumpling. Ocean Palace is located at 2 Le Duan, D1, opposite the zoo and Petro Vietnam Tower. Kate Orson will host a travel writing workshop at the BoatHouse from 9am to 11:30am on Saturday June 19 and Monday June 21. Students will learn how to write about their travels and get tips on editing and rewriting ideas. The cost of the class is USD $25, and advance booking is essential. Beginners and experienced writers welcome. Email kate_orson@hotmail.com or call 012 8608 7921. World Cup Sundays and BYOB Mondays at NYSW To celebrate the 2010 World Cup in South Africa, New York Steakhouse and Winery is offering 50 percent off U.S. Black Angus steak before and after Sunday football matches on June 13, 20 and 27 and July 4 and 11. A special South African wine selection will also be offered at a special price to accompany the meal. Offer applies to parties of 10 or fewer. Hue Festival 2010 Blossoming Series Guest Chef at Olivier One-Michelin-star chef JeanJacques Noguier will be a guest chef at Olivier Restaurant, at the Sofitel Saigon Plaza, from June 20 to 26. Chef Noguier will prepare a range of dishes, such as pan-fried goose liver with apricot and almond chutney citrus jus and roasted lamb saddle with eggplant caviar, shiitake mushrooms and Moroccan tajine jus. Prices range from 310,000 to 540,000++ VND per dish. Chef Noguier will also hold a cooking A clever series of seven rings designed by artist Nutre is currently on show at Gallery ViveKKevin at 35 Dong Khoi, District 1. Each ring demonstrates a different stage in the lifetime of a blossoming flower, until the flower has wilted and died. The collection has been chosen to be part of London’s Victoria and Albert Museum’s permanent collection. Call 6291 8162 or visit www.galleryvivekkevin.com. From June 5 to 13, Vietnam’s largest international art, cultural and tourism festival returns to Hue for its sixth year. Inaugurated in 2000, the Hue Festival has been held every two years and this year features two new major events: the Xa Tac Rite featuring 700 performers reenacting the Imperial procession and “The Breath of Water,” an ambitious performance featuring folk songs and traditional poetry performed on a submerged stage beneath the surface of Tinh Tam Lake. The heart of the Hue Festival is the Citadel, where outdoor stages and a number of theatres showcase performances by musicians and art troupes from Vietnam and abroad, including Mexico, Poland, France, Haiti, Israel, Japan and South Korea. In addition to the traditional royal rites and reenactments, fringe events have been organized around this year’s program, including the Hue Poetry Festival; exhibits featuring female Vietnamese artists, Ly Dynasty artifacts and lacquer painting; and recreational activities from martial arts to Sampan racing on the Perfume River. Hundreds of Hue’s established painters and art students will also participate in a city-wide exhibition of street and performance art. For more information and a full schedule of events, visit www.huefestival.com. asialife HCMC 9 FATHER'S DAY June 20, 2010 NYSW is also instituting BYOB Mondays. Every Monday night, NYSW allows diners to stroll in for a steak with their own bottle of wine in tow, with no extra corkage fee. To make sure the wine is at its optimal temperature, guests can also drop the bottle off earlier in the day and chill it before dinner. For more information, email New-york@steakhouse.com. vn, call 3823 7373 or visit www. steakhouse.com.vn. Summer Bazaar District 2’s The Deck will host a Summer Bazaar on Saturday June 5 from 9am until 4pm. Vendors will be selling gifts, jewellery, handicrafts and other items. Part of the proceeds will be donated to the Indochina Media Memorial Foundation, a nonprofit organization promoting the education of journalists in Southeast Asia, and Heartbeat Vietnam, which funds 10 asialife HCMC life-saving heart surgery for disadvantaged Vietnamese children. For more information, email jenny. gregory@thedecksaigon.com. Children’s Day Promo at Small is Beautiful From May 29 to June 6, chic shop for kids Small is Beautiful will celebrate Children’s Day with 10 days of special promotions for kids at its District 1 shop. The promotion includes up to ten-percent discount on a selection of Small is Beautiful exclusive clothing and toys brands, including Baby Dior, Sonia Rykiel Enfant, Antik Batik, DKNY, Petit Bateau and Kiwi. With each purchase made during this period, customers will be invited to participate in the Small Is Beautiful Children’s Day lucky draw, with prizes such as a fully furnished Playmobil Suburban House playset, a Baby Dior t-shirt and an Antik Batik-brand kurta. Café Central An Dong Dad can indulge in a dinner buffet including beef Wellington with wine sauce, a rack of lamb, buttered prawns and more on Father’s Day at the Windsor Plaza Hotel. The regular dinner buffet runs from 6 to 10pm, costing 295,000++ VND on weekdays and 325,000++ VND on weekends and holidays. Children 10 years and under are half price. Call 3833 6688, email services@ windsorplazahotel.com or visit www.windsorplazahotel.com. TOTT Bar and Restaurant Top of the Town Bar and Restaurant is offering a set menu on Father’s Day featuring a scallops ceviche with fennel and mango salad, double boiled pigeon consommé and your choice of savory yabbies and salmon or smoked rack of lamb. The entire set menu is available for 380,000++ VND. Call 3833 6688 ext 2626 or email tott@windsorplazahotel.com. Caravelle Hotel’s Restaurant Nineteen Caravelle Hotel’s Restaurant Nineteen is hosting a Sunday brunch buffet to celebrate Father’s Day for 888,000++ VND or USD $48++ per person. The buffet features Asian and Western cuisines, including fresh seafood, roasts and desserts. Diners receive a glass of Mumm Champagne, and unlimited margaritas, martinis and house wines. All fathers receive a complimentary voucher for one day at Caravelle Fitness Centre. Call 3823 4999 or visit www. caravelle.com. Mekong Merchant Mekong Merchant in District 2 is offering a late breakfast or lunch for the family on Father’s Day. Between 4 and 7pm, fathers who come to the restaurant with their family receive one free beer. Call 3744 4713 or email info@ mekongmerchant.com. asialife HCMC 11 DINH Q. LE Your installation, The Farmers and the Helicopters, includes a three-channel video and a full-size helicopter built by an engineer in Tay Ninh Province. How did this all come together? I read in the newspaper about how Tran Quoc Hai built the helicopter, and the way he talked about it was really interesting. The helicopter is such an iconic object during the [American War], but when Tran Quoc Hai talked about the helicopter, he was saying that he wanted to build the helicopter to help people—to help in emergency evacuations, to help with farming. So in a way, he’s changing this idea of the helicopter from Hai developed. We only had a little blurb that says he’s in Suoi Day, Tay Ninh. We have no idea where it is, because Suoi Day is an hour away from Tay Ninh, so nobody knows where it is. So we were like, let’s just rent a car, and we go there and we basically ask all the xe om drivers, “Where is this?” [laughs] So eventually we found him, and he was really open about this idea. His helicopter had always been seen as a machine, and now I come and ask to look at it from an artistic perspective, and he loved that idea … We also invited his neighbours to be part of the film because we wanted their ideas, their memories of the helicop- I’m sort of a combination of the two—the West and the East, the local and the international Since the early 90s, Dinh Q. Le has been one of the art world’s most recognized Viet Kieu artists. At the end of this month, his new three-channel installation, The Farmers and the Helicopters, will be the subject of a six-month solo exhibition at New York’s Museum of Modern Art. Tom DiChristopher speaks to Dinh about the upcoming show and the genesis of his more recent work. Photo by Richard Harper. a war machine as we know it when we think of the helicopter related to Vietnam. What was more interesting was how the general public wrote in to the newspaper in support of his idea, of his desire to build this machine. In a way it’s like Vietnam was trying to move forward—creating new memories—changing the idea of a war machine to a new idea of what this machine could be. In a way, this helicopter is kind of a marking of a transitional point in Vietnam. Originally I wanted to bring his helicopter to a show that I was asked to do at Asia Society in New York. The problem was the gallery ceiling was too low, so I couldn’t bring the helicopter … I came back [to HCM City] a little bit disappointed, so I decided to do a video. [Content development and production company] Propeller Group here in Saigon run by Tuan Andrew Nguyen are very good friends of mine … so we started working together to make this three-channel video happen. The Asia Pacific Triennial in 2006 commissioned the work, so we got some funding to create the video. I’m curious about how your relationship with Tran Quoc ters during the war. Everybody was just very open. Some of your early work dealt in part with your own memories of the war and how, as a Viet Kieu, they were partly informed by American film and media. Do you view this as an extension of that work? My interest in the [American War] has always been about how that history has been mostly written by the West. I’ve always been trying to—maybe not completely undermine it—but at least insert a different point of view into that narrative. And I think this work in a way is probably my most successful work. Even though a lot of footage comes from Hollywood and documentaries that were taken by Westerners during the [American War], the only voices you hear are from the Vietnamese, so in a way I silenced the voices from the West. So this is the first piece of work that, primarily, the voice only comes from the Vietnamese perspective. I think in a way it’s marking a change in my work also. For Signs and Signals from the Periphery (2009), you also used ready-made objects like the tyres used by merchants to advertise street-side shops. I’ve always been a great admirer of the people, the resilience and the inventiveness of the people. Again, it goes back to the war because you constantly have to move because the war might come at any time. You have to be able to pack up and leave and settle down wherever you are and be able to survive right away. It’s kind of interesting, this mentality. You can see it still happening in Vietnam. So you see the poor people surrounding themselves with whatever they can get their hands on to attract your attention to what they are selling. Some of them are the most wonderful things. I’ve been looking at them for years, but I think I was a little bit too obsessed with the [American War] to really think about this work. Going back to The Farmers and the Helicopters, I think that work really freed me to think about Vietnam today. And so I was thinking, “Where is Vietnam today? What is happening in Vietnam?” Some parts of Vietnam are still trying to deal with this history of the [American War]. But I think there’s also another part that has been forced to move on because of the necessity of survival. I wanted to look at that part of Vietnam, as well. If you look at the objects they’ve created, they’re completely abstract. If you don’t know how to read the signs, they’re a kind of a puzzle, a kind of abstraction. It’s so close to the language of contemporary art of today that all you have to do is switch the environment they’re in. Very simply, I just took them from the street and put them in the white cube of a gallery and it completely changed the meaning and the context. You exhibited one of these works, a bicycle stocked with Vietnamese flags, at HCM City’s San Art recently. Did you consider how that might be interpreted by local Vietnamese for whom it’s an everyday sight? That was one of the pieces I had in mind right away, because the local audience, they see this work all the time—this bicycle with the flags. They see it on the street every day, but after a while, they don’t pay attention. It’s sort of taken for granted. So I wanted people to look at this work in a different context. It was sort of a gamble. I thought a lot of people were going to dismiss it; “Oh, he’s just taking something off the street.” But I think something wonderful happened. Here in the gallery context, [the audience] really looked at it for the first time. People don’t look at things, and I think that’s the problem. We’re so busy with our daily lives. I want people to think about what it is on the street that they’re seeing and yet not seeing—when it’s in the gallery context, force them to really think about their idea of everything they see on the street. I think that’s what the goal is, and I think it was very successful. It was in all the newspapers. [Laughs] That body of work contains a neon-lit tyre that you said reminds you of Dan Flavin’s light installations, as well as a piece entitled Fountain for B.N. [Bruce Nauman]. Is there a conscious effort there to bring Vietnamese imagery into the contemporary art dialogue? It wasn’t a conscious effort but I think because this is part of the history, part of the vocabulary that I’m part of—contemporary art—I’m always seeing things in relation to that history. It wasn’t conscious, it was just very effortless. It was probably one of the easiest bodies of work I’ve ever done. [laughs] I guess because I’d been thinking about them for so long that when the ideas all clicked together, it just flowed so effortlessly. And I think maybe that’s the thing about who I am—I was born in Vietnam, raised in America, educated in the West and educated in the language of Western contemporary art. Now coming back, this is where the two meet within me. I’m sort of a combination of the two—the West and the East, the local and the international. That body of work is really about who I am in a way, how I see the world. For an extended interview with Dinh Q. Le, visit asialife.wordpress.com. : T R A M S T STREE radar Sleep is Death U A S I H VO T This long, one-way street cuts through the heart of District 3 and holds a cornucopia of urban delights. Thomas Maresca checks out the action. Photos by Fred Wissink. You could call Sleep is Death a computer game, but it has also been referred to as a comic creator, online improvisational theatre and tandem storytelling. The buzz among gamers, however, is that it’s genius. The two-person game goes like this: the host serves as the director, controlling everything from the scene setting to what the other player—the actor—can hear and interact with. The actor is only able to move its character and control its own actions and speech. The host and actor are given 30-second intervals to make moves and contribute to the ever-evolving narrative. When players end the game they can flip through a virtual comic book of the story. The latest indie creation by gaming personality Jason Rohrer, Sleep is Death features simple retro pixel art, but the interface is a bit more complicated. Luckily, the website provides video tutorials, and a separate site, sidtube. com, is dedicated solely to the rapidly growing user community. With some imagination, the possibilities are endless (and often hilarious). The game can be purchased for $14 at sleepisdeath.net. Logan Brown Mr. Fix It All of us have resorted to duct tape to fix minor holes or tears, but for those who have a more “creative” outlook to problem solving, the website thereIfixedit.com allows clever Mr. Fix Its to upload pictures of their latest inventions and solutions. It’s clear that the average users aren’t carpenters or mechanics, given the abundance of zip ties, velcro, bubble gum and staples involved in the featured repairs, but the originality is certainly not lacking. Some of the fixes are pretty simple—like using a webcam as a shaving mirror or half of a gallon milk jug as a makeshift lampshade—but others are downright genius. One user upholstered a wall with velcro and adhered miscellaneous spice jars to it for easy access. If you’re in need of a quick solution, you might find it on thereIfixedit.com, or if you think you’ve got a brilliant idea of your own, it could end up next to the rubber band-binder clip-pencil crossbow. Allison Grant Diadiem.com: Duong Di? Long before Google Maps launched in Vietnam, www.diadiem.com was holding down online mapping. With Google now on the scene, the homegrown website has recently added new features, the most practical of which is the directions function. By clicking on the Duong Di (Directions) tab and entering your point A and point B, you can find out how to reach your destination without scanning the map for one-way streets and dead ends. Need to find your way around Binh Duong? No problem. Diadiem now covers 13 cities in Vietnam and allows users to create a snapshot of maps for easy imbedding to emails or blogs. Also expanded since AsiaLIFE first reported on diadiem. com is the now expansive business directory, with everything from restaurants serving canine meat to x-ray facilities—although English listings remain unavailable. Tom DiChristopher 14 asialife HCMC A major, one-way boulevard running between Dien Tien Hoang Street and the traffic circle on Cach Mang Thang Tam, Vo Thi Sau encompasses a wide range of modern HCM City life. One of the biggest parks in town, some hip clothing stores, clusters of bicycle sellers, oversize cafes and tiny restaurants share the street with a nice selection of French colonial buildings (most of which have been transformed into imposing government-run facilities.) Le Van Tam Park Vo Thi Sau between Hai Ba Trung and Phan Liem A pleasant green space with a macabre backstory: Le Van Tam Park used to be Mac Dinh Chi cemetery, which originated as a burial ground for the French killed in their 1859 battle to take Saigon. Among those interred were former South Vietnamese president Ngo Dinh Diem. In the early 1980’s, the government abolished the cemetery as a reminder of the past and built the park which stands there today. Rumor has it that some ghost-fearing older Vietnamese still avoid the place. Its history hasn’t scared away large crowds, however, who use the open spaces for power walking, hip rotating, arm swinging and playing badminton. The park is dominated by a plaza featuring a heroic Sovietstyle sculpture, while densely shaded paths offer convenient spot for canoodlers when the sun goes down. On Sunday mornings a group of university students have create a free, open-air library housed in a gazebo, a successful addition to a book-starved town. In an interesting twist on its past use, Le Van Tam will soon house HCM City’s first underground parking garage, a five-level structure that will accommodate over 2,000 motorbikes and 1,000 cars. Habitat for Humanity 96/11 Vo Thi Sau A small building in an alley is the headquarters for the Vietnamese chapter of this U.S.based mission that has built over 350,000 houses around the world for poor families. In Vietnam, the group began operations in 2002 and has projects in several provinces, serving some 1,500 families in the last year. In July 2009, a high-profile project with former U.S. president Jimmy Carter built houses in northern Dong Xa, near Hanoi. asialife HCMC 15 Chan Nguyen Natural Food / Macrobiotic Restaurant 96H Vo Thi Sau Sick of white rice? This healthfood shop and restaurant tucked down an alley stays clear of anything bleached, processed or otherwise refined. Offering a macrobiotic menu heavy on brown rice, vegetables such as pumpkin and turnips, seaweed, beans and miso paste, Chan Nguyen is a decided change of pace. In the downstairs shop, rice, grains and flour are available as well as a wide selection of literature on Buddhist practice and the macrobiotic diet, particularly the teachings of Japanese dietician George Ohsawa, who coined the term "macrobiotic." Danny High Fashion Mannequins 98 Vo Thi Sau If you’re looking for some mannequins, or just enjoy being in a store filled with naked, life-sized men and women staring ahead with lifeless eyes, then this is the place to be. Aside from its Hitchcock-esque charms, this mannequin shop is well located, as this stretch of Vo Thi Sau across the street from the park is crowded with a variety of boutiques and clothing stores. Rock Shop 53 Vo Thi Sau Down the street from more upscale boutiques is Rock Shop, a repository for Metallica tshirts, hip/funny/ironic prints, skinny jeans and more. One of the wider and better selections 16 asialife HCMC of items for today’s youth, at reasonable prices—t-shirts are generally 180,000 VND, while jeans go for around 350,000 VND. Other rockin’ items include trucker hats, plastic bangles, and accessories such as skull-print driving masks. Russian Shop (Thuc Pham Nga) 73 Vo Thi Sau This odd little shop specializes in imported Russian foods such as smoked fish, sausages and string cheese, as well as kitschy knickknacks. There are tea samovars, Soviet-era pins and badges, and a wide selection of matryoshka, those wooden dollin-doll figurines. Many feature traditional folk-style figures, but several also take their inspiration from U.S. culture, with Bill Clinton, George W. Bush and Marilyn Monroe dolls among the collection. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau It can be disorienting to enter a shop where all the merchandise on display is the real thing Ho Chi Minh City, but iCenter is a licensed premium Apple reseller. Set in clean, Steve Jobsinspired décor, the shop offers the latest iPods, MacBooks, and iMacs—even the new iPad—as well as software and accessories like the Magic Mouse. Bicycle Shops Vo Thi Sau between Hai Ba Trung and Pasteur Bicycle hunters in HCM City know where to go to get their two-wheelers. This stretch of Vo Thi Sau is packed with shops selling bikes from simple one-speed cruisers to high-end road bikes. This is also a good place to check out a selection of electric bikes and scooters. One large showcase is the Martin 107 shop, at 97B Vo Thi Sau, which sells the Vietnamese-brand Martin bikes favored by students all over town. The Martin brands sell for 1.6 million VND; imported Asana bikes from Taiwan and Japan sell for 3.8 million VND. An Nam Coffee 52 Truong Dinh A garden-café in the standard HCM City style, An Nam was one of the first and is still one of the most popular spots in town among locals for a weekend coffee or evening drink. The menu is standard fare, but the setting is lush and attractive. Live music is offered on the weekends and evenings. Glass Bottles and Jars Vo Thi Sau near Truong Dinh A unique and visually arresting addition to Vo Thi Sau, several streetfront shops offer bottles and jars in a wide variety of sizes and shapes—from reclaimed liquor bottles to decanters with glass stoppers to oversized jugs. They seem perfect for making tra da, storing preserves or distilling your own moonshine. A simple 5-litre glass jug with an airtight lid sells for 120,000 VND. Nam Bo Woman’s Museum 202 Vo Thi Sau Located on a street named for a female war hero (see “Meet Your Street”), this museum is dedicated to the women of southern Vietnam, with more than a little military focus. Among the collections of traditional clothing and decoration are photos, letters and keepsakes of the women who were revolutionary fighters. Also on display is documentation of political female prisoners, detailing “the struggle of women in jails managed by Americans and their puppets.” The museum is a popular space for weddings, which is a strangely empowering notion. Admission is free. Vigor Juice Bar 203A Vo Thi Sau A bizarre combo gift shop and juice bar, this well-known spot makes for a decent stop after a long day in the hot sun. Pretty much every fruit under the sun is represented, including a few we haven’t seen in Vietnam very often (e.g. cranberry), at good prices. Meet Your Street Vo Thi Sau Vo Thi Sau was a teenage revolutionary during the French occupation and is one of the most revered and famous women in Vietnamese history. She was imprisoned in the infamous tiger cages on Con Dao island, and was executed by firing squad in 1952, at age 17. Her last words were reportedly “Long Live President Ho Chi Minh.” Sau was the first Vietnamese female to be sentenced to death. Her tomb on Con Dao island is a pilgrimage site and shrine. asialife HCMC 17 CAMERA TALES .................................................... Jade de Brito Lopes Student, Colette School. Selections from the Recent Exhibit. .................................................... Photography for me was at first a hobby. Since the first day I got my first camera, I got in the habit of always taking it with me wherever I went, looking for people and places to capture. It quickly became a passion, as I became more and more aware of things that surrounded me. As me and my mom travelled I thought “This is really what I want to do.” This is was my first (and hopefully not the last!) exhibition. I wanted to show Vietnam and Cambodia, two places that 18 asialife HCMC mean so much to me, for its place but mostly, for its people. Mainly, through these photos, I wanted to show what I love about these countries and what I've experienced, living almost 10 years in Southeast Asia. It was an amazing vernissage and I have so many people to thank for it, starting from my mom, to Helen Savory, Jimmy Geeraerts and all of the people who came and supported me. Photography is now an important part of my life, and hopefully I will get to do this for a long time. asialife HCMC 19 20 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 21 PLUGGED IN TO CULTURE All photos by Fred Wissink. Model Chris Newell. N O I S I V E L TE MUSIC FILM T E N R E T IN 22 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 23 V T N V Y M T I WA N Local audiences remain critical of Vietnamese television, but it’s hard to deny the demand for homegrown content. Tom DiChristopher speaks to industry insiders about delivering better programming in Vietnam. The house is a typical residence in a young hamlet of District 7. The façade is a mix of local tastes and provincial European flourishes—Chateau Vietnam. Behind the exterior wall a tangle of motorbikes occupies the courtyard. The street on which it is located is too new to have been named. Inside, however, the scene is anything but typical. Crew members dart around the ground floor, carrying film equipment. A makeup artist touches up Dai Nghia, who portrays the husband of the household, for his next scene. On the next level, one of the two bedrooms off the hallway is flooded with set lighting, while the other serves as a control room, presided over by young Vietnamese director Nguyen Manh Ha. This is not a home at all, but the set of a new television series called May Rau Lam Vo (Mr. Housewife). It’s immediately clear that Ha is busy these days. He excuses himself intermittently during the interview to issue directions into a walkie talkie, and his gaze never strays far from the pair of monitors on which the scene across the hallway unfolds. Across town in a far-flung neighborhood of Tan Binh District, the atmosphere is similar on the set of Vu Dieu Tinh Yeu (Love Romance), the latest serial drama by veteran director Dang Luu Viet Bao. On any given day, Bao will wake up at 7am, shoot until the evening and afterwards edit the footage shot the previous day. Then it’s back home to work on scripts or prepare a new project before turning in at about 2am. This is the life of a Vietnamese television di24 asialife HCMC rector. Until recently, Ha and his crew worked about 14 hours per day, seven days a week. Ha lobbied the project’s investors for a six-day work week, and they eventually relented. With a slight smile that betrays irony, he says, “I won.” A Love Affair with Foreign Content? One could be forgiven for overestimating the national taste for foreign television programming; surfing through the 65 channels now commonly available, movies and soap operas from China, Korea and the United States in particular still occupy the airwaves much of the day. “The general perception is that the Vietnamese love foreign-made products and we don’t really appreciate our country,” says Tran Thi Thanh Mai, managing director of media studies firm Kantar Media. As evidence against this assumption, Thanh Mai points to the success of SCTV7, a relatively new channel that focuses on programming steeped in Vietnamese culture, including cai luong, or traditional opera. According to the People Meter system, which Kantar has used to track viewership in HCM City since 2008, SCTV7 has consistently occupied the top spot this year. In total, five of SCTV’s channels have cracked the top 20, and other Vietnamese channels like Vietnam Television (VTV) and Ho Chi Minh City Television (HTV) are also dominating. “Like in any other country, the local people prefer to watch in the local language,” says Mai. “The movies on Star Movies, HBO and Cinemax are quite good but of course they’re in a foreign language with subtitles,” says Thanh Mai, explaining that audiences don’t always grasp everything they’re watching in English. Othello Khanh of production house Crea TV says the influence of Korean and Chinese programming is also waning. “People used to love it, but [that was] because there was no Vietnamese programming,” says Khanh. “The Vietnamese decided to create Vietnamese programming … and now people want more as they discover that you can do local content.” Like many aspects of Vietnamese society, the television industry is both underdeveloped and growing rapidly. For nearly 30 years following reunification, only a handful of channels were available to Vietnamese viewers, but in the last decade, the number of channels has grown at a clip. Cable television, once primarily consumed by foreign diplomats and expatriates due to its prohibitive cost, was significantly reduced in price in 2005, giving local viewers even more options. Concerned with the ratio of Vietnamese to foreign content, the Ministry of Culture issued a decree in 2007 recommending that 30 percent of programming be made up of original Vietnamese serial dramas and comedies. Consequently, directors like Ha and Bao are in demand. Ha, a relatively young director at 34, has studied in workshops at the University of South California and in Europe, and has experience in the better-developed Thai film industry. After shooting wraps on his current project, he’ll fly to Singapore to get the ball asialife HCMC 25 rolling on a documentary he’ll direct for the Discovery Channel. When asked how many Vietnamese television directors have comparable experience, Ha says, “At my age, not so many. Maybe four or five.” they’re making.” Achieving high production quality in Vietnam has been a defining struggle for Jennifer Ravolet, creative director for Yan TV. Launched last year, the local music channel has been able to set itself apart by investing in professional Coming up to Speed production and drawing on foreign expertise. Still, Vietnamese viewers aren’t ready to give “When everything is grey, nothing looks television producers a free pass. A recent great,” says Ravolet, referring to the drab article on VietNamNet reported that the nacolour in locally produced shows. “It’s a matter tional penchant for puns had been applied to of production, how you set up your lights, your a few flagging shows: We Are In Love, Really? set. It’s a matter of colour grading in post.” was rechristened We Turn Off TV, Really? and The premium placed on production quality Sorry for Love has become known as Sorry is in part what led Ta Thuy Minh, an entertainthe Audience. ment journalist turned talk show host, to Yan One of the biggest obstacles to quality TV. Her current VTV talk show, IME ("I am programming, says Ha, is local knowledge of me"), was inspired by Western-style formats like The Ellen DeGeneres Show, and she has become known for “Nowadays, films are made quickly to challenging her celebrity guests more than is common on be broadcast in time. Many directors Vietnamese talk shows. When don’t even have enough time to review she began developing a lifestyle show, Yan TV was a natural fit. the editing” “I love it when they try to Dang Luu Viet Bao bring the audience something beautiful, something nice, something well-designed,” says production practices, particularly at the of preThuy Minh. “I like that about Yan TV. Television and post-production stages. “In Vietnam, we needs that.” do not have a professional film industry,” says To achieve better quality, Bao points out Ha. “I have to fight with people in Vietnam. another asset that would help: time. They ask, ‘Why do I have to do it like this?’ “Nowadays, films are made quickly to be They don’t think [pre- and post-production broadcast in time. We have a rather short are] important.” time for post-production. Many directors don’t Bao also emphasizes the importance of even have enough time to review the editing,” professionalism on his sets, pointing to the says Bao. “Editing in every shot needs to be fact that his crew is able to carry on while he is checked carefully by the director. Especially in being interviewed. “In order to do that, it takes films in which sound is recorded directly, it’s a long time to prepare in pre-production,” very important to edit every sound and noise.” he says. “The script must be edited carefully Currently, that’s a luxury that few directors and even small props must also be prepared have, and until they do, says Ha, Vietnamese sufficiently. Each member of the crew needs television won’t be as good as it could be. to thoroughly understand the idea of the film "The film producers in Vietnam know how to 26 asialife HCMC improve post-production while making their films, but it's hard to do that by themselves," says Ha. "You can only improve the quality of film if you have a healthy and professional filming environment. We have to build up the market. If you want to keep fish, you must have a fish tank and clean water first." Making Ends Meet The time constraints placed on directors have much to do with the current funding structure behind most productions. In Vietnam, television stations do not finance programming, so production houses must turn to outside investors and then present the finished series to networks. Compounding the problem is that payment is made upon broadcast—often one year after filming wraps—so production houses can quickly run into cash flow problems. Today, there are about 60 production houses, big and small, in Vietnam, but television station expansion has outpaced their ability to create homegrown content. “The government is asking the TV stations to fill up 30 percent of Vietnamese content, but it’s impossible to fill it up now because we don’t have enough resources,” says Chanh Tran of Crea TV. Although Crea TV has the capacity and skill to provide production work for clients such as The Amazing Race Asia and MTV’s Road Rules, they’re not immune to the travails of the Vietnamese television industry. They’ve produced about 150 hours of television over three years, but the goal is to produce at least 120 to 150 hours of programming per year, spread out over three or more series so there’s always money coming in for the next project. That might not seem like much content, but according to Chanh, the maximum any production house in Vietnam is turning out is about 250 hours per year. To keep money rolling in, filmmakers have to keep investors happy, which can affect everything from casting to production schedules. For example, investors prefer for wellknown singers and models to be involved, reasoning that popularity in one medium will transfer to another. For directors, this often means coaching amateur actors and actresses, as well as contending with their overlapping commitments to the stage and runway. When scheduling conflicts arise, budget problems follow. Currently, says Chanh, the average amount spent on an hour of television programming is USD $10,000, which he estimates is half the average in Thailand and one percent of the cost in the United States, where one hour of production easily reaches the $1 million mark. Those budgets in part explain why most television series are slated for about 30 to 40 episodes. “You cannot get the commitment of all the actors,” says Othello Khanh. “You get a contract for, like, three months to shoot the series. You don’t have the financial power to lock everybody in for five years.” Under good conditions, where the cast is able to commit fully, Bao and Ha both report that they can shoot one episode in two days, with an additional two days on either end for pre- and post-production. “If the film is just about the lives of the members of one or two families, it’s finished rather quickly, within about two months,” says Bao. “But if the film is staged in the countryside, all the crew have to spend time moving, so it’ll take a longer time, maybe three months.” Not an ideal situation, but for now it’s the status quo. Finding (and Keeping) an Audience Few expect change to come overnight, but everyone surveyed believes it will come. The last five years have been evidence of that. At the dawn of the second decade of television in Vietnam, signs point towards a shift from a one-size-fits-all approach to strategies rooted in identifying market segments. That, “We have different accents, cultural habits. So no one is really confident that they’re going to cover all of the market in Vietnam” Ta Thuy Minh however, will be a challenge for culturally diverse Vietnam. “We have different accents, cultural habits,” says Thuy Minh. “So no one is really confident that they’re going to cover all of the market in Vietnam.” There’s also a line between older viewers, who tend to consume traditional programming, and teenage audiences, who have grown up with international-standard programming and Internet content. Since teens will be tomorrow’s audiences, it’s no wonder they’ve become prime targets. Yan TV is one of the channels trying to attract their attention. In lieu of qualified music video directors, they’ve turned to creative director Jennifer Ravolet to direct videos and devised an agreement that benefits both Yan and the artist: low-cost, high-quality production in exchange for rights to the video. “Producing music videos is not a core business of a television channel,” says Do Quoc Hiep, CEO of Yan TV. “But then what happens is you see there are not so many good quality music videos out there, and we happen to have someone like Jen in the company, so we do the job of the pioneer. We open another way for people to look at how you produce a music video.” Hiep acknowledges that being a pioneer in Vietnam can lead to a slippery slope. In pushing the boundaries, Yan TV must be careful not to venture so far beyond them that their content loses its relevance. “The challenge is really remarkable,” says Hiep. “At first we had long arguments. Do we set a high standard and make the audience reach us, understand us? Or do we produce the content that they will accept? We came to a point where we said, ‘OK, the creative people like Jen, they are used to a high standard, but then you have to make your story understandable to local tastes.’” As difficult as it can be to resolve foreign and local sensibilities, Bao believes that international involvement is essential to the future of television. As a lecturer at the Ho Chi Minh City University of Theatre and Cinema, he says looking beyond Vietnam presents opportunities to supplement the young industry. “[The University] should invite some lecturers from other countries that have successful movie industries to come and share their practical working experience, as well as to teach several periods,” says Bao, adding that there’s currently a shortage of lecturers and few internship opportunities. Ha agrees that bringing today's students up to speed will make for better films tomorrow. "If workflow isn't good, it will also affect the next generation of filmmakers," he says. "Nothing carries over like mistakes." While help may come from outside Vietnam, real change will come from within. Bao and Ha both stress the importance of source material. You can throw all the money in the world at a production, but without a solid script that speaks to local audiences, a television show will fail. It boils down to a simple maxim, Bao says: co bot moi got nen ho. No flour, no paste. asialife HCMC 27 C I S U M E S E E VIE T N A M V O O R G A R O F S E H C R SE A Rapsoul The popular music scene has long been dominated by karaoke-ready saccharine pop. However, R&B and hiphop artists and producers are starting to bring the noise. Thomas Maresca plugs in. On a recent night at Fuse, a new, upscale nightclub, HCM City’s burgeoning hiphop community was out in force. Kids in flat-billed baseball caps, oversized t-shirts and baggy jeans packed the room as some of the best known rappers in town— baby-faced 26-year-old Rapsoul and female MC Suboi—performed, rhyming in both English and Vietnamese. DJs spun in the background, while breakdancers from the Big South Crew worked the stage before the enthusiastic crowd. In cities around the world, this would be a perfectly ordinary scene. But in Vietnam, a party like this is still relatively rare, particularly in such a mainstream setting. Long dominated by syrupy ballads designed to be warbled along to on karaoke machines, Vietnamese contemporary music is getting a remix. Plugged-in urban youth and overseas Vietnamese are finding influences from California to Korea, and the speakers, studios and clubs of Vietnam are starting to hum with some new sounds. Follow the Money Tellingly, the other faces in the crowd at Fuse on this night are executives from music channel YanTV, on hand to launch an imported MTV series America’s Best Dance Crew, and investment firm IDG Ventures. There’s a clear sense of which direction the market is heading. “If you want to put money into the local market, put it into hiphop and R&B,” says Duc Tri, founder of Music Faces, a record label and production company, which is releasing albums by both Rapsoul and Suboi in the upcoming months. Tri has been involved in the evolution of the Vietnamese music industry for almost two 28 asialife HCMC decades. A graduate of the HCM City Conservatory of Music, he was a musician in the 90s, and then left to study music production at Berklee College in Boston. He returned in 2004 and started Music Faces. Even back then, influences from the West and Asian countries such as Korea were coming in, but Vietnamese audiences weren’t ready to accept it from their own singers. Tri’s first client, supermodel-turned-chanteuse Ho Ngoc Ha, had already tried to record some R&B-tinged material as far back as 2003, but it flopped. “We brought her back doing very cheesy pop ballads, very easy listening pop,” says Tri. “That was the music that people were listening to. My theory is, don’t do something new in this market. You have to go back and do what they are doing, and start from there. And then move forward.” The learning curve existed not just for audiences, but artists and producers as well. “It’s one thing to listen to something and like it, and another to incorporate it into what you’re doing,” says Laurent Jaccoux, a French producer who has worked in Vietnam. The gap between traditional Vietnamese pop and a style like R&B is particularly vast. “Everything is different,” says Jaccoux. “The structure, the melody.” Even the way audiences listened to music was radically different. While R&B and hiphop are beat-oriented, in Vietnamese pop songs, music is kept in the background. “In typical Vietnamese pop songs, the music is mixed way in the back,” says Jaccoux. “Here, they just listen to the vocals and the lyrics.” Lost in Translation Language is another barrier. Hiphop, for instance, in the United States or other countries has been built on generations of slang, but to find a Vietnamese voice in hiphop meant starting from scratch. Rapsoul, one of the country’s hiphop pioneers, only heard his first rap song eight years ago, on a mixtape given to him by a foreign friend. “We don’t have hiphop slang,” says Rapsoul. “We don’t have gangsta rap like in the U.S. Vietnamese culture is different. The lyrics of the song must be clean. No bad words.” Rapsoul’s upcoming album, Soul (Sounds of Urban Life), features songs about “driving a bike around the city, about the love of music, about listening to music, about clubs,” says the MC. Getting Vietnamese to fit into R&B also presents an obstacle. The tones in the language are often at odds with the melodies and phrasing in a typical R&B song. “Writing Vietnamese lyrics for my melodies is always a challenge,” says Duong Khac Linh, a Dutch-born producer who has written a string of R&B and urban pop hits for Vietnamese artists under the moniker GremLinh. “I write English lyrics and translate. It’s very different. Very Westernized, but also Vietnamese. So it brings a new dimension to Vietnamese music and it’s starting to give Vietnamese R&B its own sound.” Rising Star Linh is clearly the producer of the moment in contemporary Vietnamese music. He moved to Vietnam from his native Holland in 2008 and began producing for Music Faces artists such as Ho Ngoc Ha and Phuong Vy, the 2007 Vietnam Idol winner. His songs quickly became some of the most successful and international-sounding hits in the Vietnamese market, including the asialife HCMC 29 Thanh Bui Duong Khac Linh SES A E L E R G N I UP C OM Watch Thao Trang biggest single of last year: Ho Ngoc Ha’s “My Apology / Xin Hay Thu Ha.” Its groove, slick production and extremely catchy hook were very different for Vietnam. Ha even performed the song at the Asian Song Festival in Korea last September to a positive reception, one of the first times a Vietnamese musician has made an impact on the international stage. At the beginning of 2010, Linh left and started his own company, Early Risers Media, where his touch has stayed golden. In addition to music, the company coproduced the hit Dustin Nguyen film De Mai Tinh and has used the soundtrack to nurture and develop its music portfolio. One of the artists to join Early Risers is Thao Trang. A Vietnam Idol Top 5 finalist in 2007, Trang was well known but didn’t fit into the cookie-cutter mold of a typical Vietnamese pop star. Pixie-ish, with a quirky style, she found it difficult to build on her Idol success. After live touring and a selfreleased first album, her prospects dried up. Early Risers invited her to record a song for the De Mai Tinh soundtrack. Trang ended up providing the vocals for all of the female lead’s songs, and walked away with a deal to release a new album. “This project is bringing me back,” she says. “I was kind of dead for a while after the first album. I couldn’t find anything that fit.” 30 asialife HCMC Albums by Art Duc Tri Her album The New Me is set for release this month. Of its 10 tracks, five are in English and five in Vietnamese, with a blend of ballads, R&B, urban pop and even a couple of club tracks. “This album is kind of like research…to see what [audiences] like the most, what style—urban pop, R&B? And then I’m going to do that.” Viet Kieu Influence Another artist who appeared on the De Mai Tinh soundtrack is Australian-born Thanh Bui, who was a Top 8 finalist on Australian Idol in 2008. He was contacted by Linh, and agreed to record a Vietnamese rework of his own song, “Forbidden,” which became “Lang Tham Mot Tinh Yeu,” a duet with Ho Ngoc Ha. Thanh says he was “blown away” by the quality of the music Linh sent him. “I never knew Vietnamese music had progressed this much,” he says. The 25-year-old is in the midst of working on an international album alongside some of the biggest global producers in the business, but he’s also decided to record an album for Vietnam. It will be targeted for a July release, with primarily Vietnamese-language songs. Like his fellow Viet Kieu, Linh, Bui is helping to bring another sound to Vietnam. “We want to do some progressive soul. V-pop, Japanese and Korean pop…it can be so sweet. I want my music to say something, to keep it as real as possible.” Million-Dollar Question While the Vietnamese music industry is expanding its horizons, it’s also facing the same question plaguing the music business around the world: How do you make money in a digitized world, when so much of the content can be had for free? The issue is particularly acute in Vietnam, where piracy is a way of life and official CD sales are almost negligible. A blockbuster hit will sell perhaps a few thousand copies. For performers, the main source of revenue remains live shows. Other means of making money include ringtones and endorsements or sponsorship deals. There is no easy solution for producers. For Duc Tri, the trend is worrying. “We make money, but not enough to cover the burn rate to maintain the quality we’re trying to get,” he says. “We’re trying to do first class, high-quality music locally. But somehow the income, the payback…we’re not there.” Early Risers is getting set to launch its own website, where they will sell their own artists’ songs on MP3, and ultimately become what Linh hopes will be a hub for independent labels around Asia. Despite the attention among urban youth, and the occasional chart-topping hits, Vietnamese R&B and hiphop remains a niche market. “My music is actually for a very small population of Vietnamese,” says Linh. “There are 90 million people here. I serve maybe a few percent.” The biggest stars in Vietnam remain saccharine pop singers such as Dam Vinh Hung. His songs don’t get much attention on the charts but his concerts sell out, and he commands huge concert fees. There are no truly reliable music charts or album tracking systems in place yet in Vietnam. “The only tracking system for me is what an artist gets paid for a performance,” says Linh. “It’s easy to determine who’s really wanted by the public or not. You can ask for $5,000 for a gig but if nobody pays you, you’re not worth it. Dam Van Hung could easily ask for $10,000 and it’s sold out right away. That shows me who is number one in Vietnam.” As if to underscore the point, back at Fuse, once the rap performances are done, the young hiphop crowd is quickly muscled away from the VIP tables. The club’s wellheeled regular patrons arrive, ready to order exorbitantly priced bottles of Hennesy and Johnnie Walker. Loud, generic thumping techno replaces the hiphop sounds. It’s a familiar scene to anyone who’s ever been to a Vietnamese nightclub. “Step by step,” says Tri. “Vietnamese music won’t change overnight.” ists to Rapsoul Soul (Sounds of Urban Living) June / Music Faces Mot Tinh Yeu,” a duet with Ho Ngoc Ha from the De Mai Tinh soundtrack. The king of HCM City hiphop has a debut release out this month. Antoneus Maximus July / Early Risers Thao Trang The New Me June / Early Risers An experienced rapper/producer from California, Antoneus Maximus provided songs for the De Mai Tinh soundtrack, and is working on this full-length release. Vietnam Idol finalist had several tracks on the De Mai Tinh soundtrack. This is the second album for the quirky, versatile pop singer. Suboi July / Music Faces Debut album from one of the bestknown young rappers in Vietnam. She appeared on Ho Ngoc Ha’s hit singles “My Apology” and “Ladies’ Night.” Thanh Bui July / Early Risers Debut Vietnamese-language album from Australian Idol finalist. His first single was “Lang Tham Kim August / Early Risers Kim, a 19-year-old MC and singer from Hanoi, is one of the most buzzed-about and promising performers in Vietnamese music. Great style and ability. Ho Ngoc Ha September-October / Early Risers Vietnam’s most popular female star is back in the studio with Duong Khac Linh, the producer of some of her biggest hits. *Dates are tentative asialife HCMC 31 , D L I W S ' FIL M M A K ING T S A E D L I W Traditionally Vietnam has been on the B-list when it comes to moviemaking. Yet, as Jade Bilowol reports, a film industry is taking shape and Vietnamese audiences are lining up at the box office. It’s a Sunday night at Diamond Plaza’s Lotte Cinema in downtown HCM City. Flashlight in hand, the usher leads us to seats in the front row. Cinema 3 is almost filled to capacity. The rustle of popcorn and snap of a seal being broken on a drink bottle are heard. The lights then fade out completely for the main feature, but it’s not a Hollywood blockbuster. Nor is it from one of Asia’s film powerhouses. The crowd has turned out for homegrown flick De Mai Tinh (Fool for Love), a romantic comedy starring veteran Vietnamese American actor Dustin Nguyen alongside Kathy Uyen and Thai Hoa. The audience is immediately engrossed, laughing relentlessly as the one-liners come thick and fast. In this fickle business, many movies are in 32 asialife HCMC the throes of death after a couple of weeks at the cinema. Yet Fool for Love is pulling strong numbers well into its third week. Nguyen’s character Dung, a hotel attendant, emerges as the underdog in a two-way tussle for aspiring singer Mai’s (Uyen) affections. Things are further complicated when flamboyantly gay Hoi (Hoa) bursts onto the scene, trying to win Dung over. The audience is backing the underdog, whether it’s Dung, Hoi, Fool For Love or good Vietnamese films generally. Let’s Rewind Eight months earlier, Choi Voi (Adrift) debuts at The Venice Film Festival. The drama piece comes out of nowhere to clinch the international critics’ Fipresci Prize. This is huge. Adrift joins the international film festival circuit, screening in Toronto, Vancouver, London, Fukuoka and Bangkok before opening to the Vietnamese public in mid-November last year. Adrift is a far cry from Vietnam’s censored, government-produced films of the past. Infused with marital infidelity and lesbianism, the film explores modern life in Vietnam with haunting results. Adrift scriptwriter Phan Dang Di is not new to the Venice Film Festival. Nor is he shy about sinking his teeth into controversial issues. His short film When I am 20 (Khi Toi 20)—about a young prostitute who supports her grandmother—was shown at the festival in 2008. According to Adrift director Bui Thac Chuyen, Vietnamese films are improving thanks to private sector funding. At the time of Adrift’s Venice premiere, he told international media that Vietnamese cinema audiences, particularly in large cities, are growing, and although the industry needs more funding, films are proving to be commercially viable. David versus Goliath Locally-made action flick Bay Rong (Clash) hits the big screen on December 18—the same day as James Cameron’s epic Avatar, the biggest film of all time. Despite fierce competition, it holds its ground, generating almost 20 billion VND (more than USD $1 asialife HCMC 33 “Here a movie reaches an alltime high and breaks records, then it’s topped by a movie next year. That’s a sign the market’s expanding” Charlie Nguyen “cinematic dream.” “There are so many opportunities, so many stories untold,” he muses. “The culture, the conflict, diversity and depth—it’s full of contrast. There’s a beautiful building next to a trashy place and when you put a camera up to the scenery, it all looks very interesting.” Johnny admits this relatively new filmmaking arena throws up challenges. “It’s not settled or well developed—everything is alien,” he says. “It’s a little unstable, a little unorganized. Nothing’s really written in paper. There aren’t enough professionals, you have to struggle and really work. Every film you make’s a journey to be discovered.” Johnny Tri Nguyen and Ngo Thanh Van, stars of Clash million) after six weeks. Vietnamese American actor and stunt double Johnny Tri Nguyen, who co-wrote and stars in Clash, says the film was slated to stay in the cinemas for three weeks. “It ended up staying for seven to eight weeks,” he says. “Average films last for about two weeks because there aren’t enough theatres, so the cycle is really short.” So why did audiences champion Clash? “They don’t get bored out of their minds with the culture stuff and there’s something for everybody with drama, romance and action,” Johnny says. Producer Tawny Nguyen of Chang Phuong Films, the production company behind Clash, says Vietnamese audiences will support homegrown efforts “if we try to make quality films they can feel proud of and identify with.” “I think Clash’s writers (Johnny, Le Thanh 34 asialife HCMC Son and Ho Quang Hung) did a great job contributing to, and fine-tuning, the balance between Western factors Vietnamese audiences enjoy and the Vietnamese cultural mentality they can relate to,” Tawny says. Like Adrift, Clash is reaching a global audience on the film festival trail, screening at acting legend Robert de Niro’s 2010 Tribeca Film Festival in New York. Tawny says Chang Phuong Films is promoting Clash internationally thanks to support from investors and strong returns that allowed the company to recoup its budget at Vietnam’s cinemas. Johnny says while non-action Vietnamese films cost about $400,000 to make, Clash was double because “comedies don’t have things exploding and are quicker to shoot.” He reckons in other parts of the world, Clash would’ve cost more than $10 million. Filmmaking at a cheaper price isn’t the only drawcard. Johnny likens Vietnam to a It’s Tet Time of Year Traditionally, Vietnam has one season during which people flock to the cinemas, the Tet holiday season. In February, a clutch of films— Nhung Nu Hon Ruc Ro (Glamorous Kisses), Khi Yeu Dung Quay Dau Lai (Don’t Turn Around When In Love) and Nhat Ky Bach Tuyet (Snow White’s Diary)—vie for a share of the influx. Glamorous Kisses, a musical directed by Nguyen Quang Dung, whose last two movies broke the country’s box office records, generated the highest income of the three. Megastar Media Company chairman Brian Hall says that together the movies enjoyed a “reasonable to strong box office” at Megastar Cinemas, screening for four to six weeks. “These films are fairly light and easy to watch … and are generally aimed at a mass audience,” he says. Brian says box office sales for Vietnamese films at Megastar cinemas have been mushrooming. The total box office for 2007 was up by a staggering 1600 percent on 2006. From there, the figures further skyrocket annually. Brian says the first four months of 2010 have already usurped all of 2009 by another 125 percent. “It is possible in five to 10 years for the local Vietnamese film market to be 10 times bigger than today—in terms of revenue generation at least—if it follows these trends,” he says. Since Megastar opened its first multiplex cinema in Hanoi in 2006, the annual box office has ballooned from $2 million annually to a projected $20 million-plus for 2010. Brian says this phenomenal growth largely results from films being released in Vietnam much closer to their release dates in the United States and other key markets. After all, there’s more demand for fresh films with an early start on the scourge of DVD piracy. There’s no sign demand will wane any time soon, unlike in other parts of the world, where cinemas are closing down. According to Brian, Vietnam is one of the most “under-screened” countries in the world, with Megastar looking for new locations to open cinemas. Lights, Camera … When it’s time to shoot Fool For Love, a crisis erupts. “Virtually everything that could go wrong on set did go wrong,” Charlie says with a bemused smile. The crew was informed that by the start of shooting, the Sheraton Hotel in Nha Trang would be completely constructed. But when they rock up, it’s concrete and metal. “All we have is one room and a hallway,” Charlie says. “In the script, there’s a lobby, pool, spa, club and bar. We get there and think: ‘Shit, we’re dead.'” No other locations are available in Nha Trang so they come up with a stopgap solution: shooting in Hanoi as well. “There’s not one location that can accommodate the story so we shoot at three different other hotels too,” says Charlie. “It’s a nightmare because of the different architecture, colours and furniture.” From a moviemaking viewpoint, Charlie likens Vietnam to the “wild, wild East.” “An industry is slowly starting to take shape,” he says. “Here a movie reaches an all-time-high and breaks records, then it’s topped by a movie next year. That’s a sign the market’s expanding.” However, he says investors are only willing to allocate a limited amount of money into films, so that they can safely recoup their funds. “It’s not a case of ‘Here, we’ve got the money. Can we do this?’ Rather, it’s ‘We really need it. Please help us? Can we shoot at 1am?’” In Vietnam, Charlie says there are ways to overcome hurdles. For a chase scene in Fool For Love, a request to close down one of Nha Trang’s main roads was denied. “After much begging and knocking on the right doors, we got the street,” Charlie says. “It’s all about getting on people’s good side. In the States, when they say no, it means no. But here, between a yes and no, there’s a ‘do I like you enough?’” While Charlie’s a fan of following Hollywood’s footsteps in many filmmaking aspects, such as script structure and technical competency, he acknowledges industry development here may be a double-edged sword. “We get to shoot at all the different locations for free,” Charlie says. “Maybe in 20 years time we won’t be able to do this because everyone will want money.” Cue Fool for Love Fool For Love’s release date is fast approaching and Dustin, who also co-wrote and co-produced the film, can’t help feeling nervous. “When it comes to comedy, it’s very scary,” says Los Angeles-based Dustin, who has acted alongside the likes of Johnny Depp in 21 Jump Street and Cate Blanchett in Little Fish. “Before screening it for the first time, you’re not sure if it’s going to be effective or not.” Despite his strong acting performance, Hoa’s gay character also worries them. “Our team was quite concerned this might backfire,” Dustin says. “You don’t know at the end of the day. This is still a relatively conservative society.” These worries dissolve the moment Fool For Love hits the big screen. In the first three days of its release, it sells 45,000 tickets. “It’s a shock to the industry. This is the same as the biggest Tet movie gets,” Charlie says. “We are happy not just for the film, but to break tradition by screening outside Tet. If you make a good film, people will go.” Dustin says financially, the film “will do all right in the end.” “I don’t believe any independent filmmakers have ever gotten rich,” he says. “That’s why it’s called ‘independent’ and I consider Vietnamese filmmakers to be ‘independent filmmakers.’” Fool For Love will make its presence felt in the United States in August this year. “This little itty bitty subtitled Vietnamese film’s getting released in America,” says Dustin. “It’s a small release in 10 to 12 cities, however, relatively speaking, it’s quite an accomplishment when you consider how many other foreign films are vying to get on the screens.” Returning to Cinema 3, Fool For Love’s car chase scene is unfolding at a terrific speed and the audience is in hysterics. When the cinema’s lights come back on, it’s clear the punters are impressed. Thai Kim Jen, a student studying foreign and international trade, says this is the second time she’s seen Fool For Love. But there was a time when she didn’t think much of Vietnamese films. “Over the past three or so years, they keep getting better,” she says. “People are training in foreign countries, coming back with better skills and helping the industry here.” D R A W R O F T FAS The wave of Vietnamese films being made shows no sign of abating. At the time of writing, the Cannes International Film Festival was treated to a sneak preview of Canh Dong Bat Tan (Floating Lives), based on a short story by Nguyen Ngoc Tu and set in the Mekong Delta. It was previewed during a party to publicize the inaugural Vietnamese International Film Festival to be held in Hanoi on October 17 to 21. Dustin Nguyen, who stars in the film, says: “I think it’s going to be a very important Vietnamese film.” Dustin is reportedly set to make his directorial debut with upcoming action film Monk on Fire–described as “an Asian western with bikes instead of horses, swords instead of guns and super powered monks.” The production company responsible for Fool for Love, Early Risers Media Group, is developing other projects. “Early Risers is really a bunch of friends with a desire to make films … we would like to see coming from Vietnam,” Dustin says. “We have a couple of small Vietnamese-language films in development, as well as a couple of English-language films for the international market.” Meanwhile, Vietnamese American actor and kickboxer Cung Le is lined up to star in English-language martial arts film Breaking Point, of which Chang Phuong Films is an execu- tive producer. Principal photography for the film is scheduled to begin in late 2010. Le acted alongside Dennis Quaid in Pandorum. Tawny Nguyen says Chang Phuong Films is also working on Saigon Electric, a film about Vietnamese youth who express themselves through hiphop. It’s in pre-production and Stephane Gauger, who directed Vietnamese film Cu va chim se se (Owl and the Sparrow), is signed on to direct the film. “We try to develop as many projects as we can with different filmmakers,” says Tawny. “I think there are many local talents yet to be discovered. Once they have the right supports and opportunity, they will contribute many fresh and unique visions and stories that will help shape the industry and further push Vietnamese films beyond the local boundary–just like what happened in the past for Hong Kong, Thailand and most recently Korea. I truly believe Vietnam can be next.” To mark Hanoi’s 1000-year celebrations, an historical epic about Hanoi is reportedly in pre-production. Johnny Tri Nguyen is also currently writing an action fantasy, which he hopes to start shooting later this year. “It takes place in the modern day with some characters from the past,” Johnny says. asialife HCMC 35 F O L A V I V E R A ND H T A E D , H RE U T T HE B IRT L U C G N I O GG L B 'S M A N T VI E A brief history of the curious lifespan and rebirth of Vietnamese blogs. By Chi Huyen Mai. The Rise Once upon a time, five or six years ago, a neologism introduced a whole new way of life to Vietnamese who were embracing the cyber world. That word was “blog.” “For the first time, my opinions counted, and I was listened to,” recalls Tu Nguyen, a 20-year-old blogger. For many like Tu, blogging presented the chance to voice one’s mind and heart in a culture that traditionally approves of communal consensus and disapproves of individual expression. Blogging was a new sort of freedom. From behind their keyboards, bloggers could reflect on life, their peers, fashion, music, pets—anything that interested them. That freedom extended to social, economic and even political subjects, which had hardly ever been discussed on any public platform before the arrival of blogs. Trung Tran was in his early twenties when the blogosphere exploded. “It was the only space where I could speak my thoughts at length about my generation, society and all that surrounded me,” says Tran. “It was a whole new horizon in which one had a chance to parade her personality,” says Van Nguyen, who would become a blogger for Asia Scout Network, a research initiative that monitors emerging youth culture within Asia-Pacific. As blogging grew in popularity, the world beyond the computer screen took notice. Starting from a personal wish to express themselves, some bloggers rose above the crowd, making up a trendsetting group that Vietnamese media at the time dubbed “The Hot Bloggers.” “Hot Bloggers are those who had a strong personality. That’s the numero uno standard,” says Robbey Le, a well-known, long-time blogger. Robbey has been blogging since 2006. He writes about pop culture, from music to movies to the world of celebrities, “with no attempts to stir up faux scandals,” he says, referring to the many Vietnamese blog pages that attract enormous traffic by posting gossip, eyebrow-raising news and plenty of boob shots. Many other bloggers also rose above the lowest common denominator. At its peak, Vietnam’s blogosphere saw the rise of Co Gai Do Long, a journalist by trade who reported behind-the-scenes stories of celebrities. It also witnessed the increasing fame of Bo Cu Hung, a reporter who offered insights into more serious topics such as politics and journalistic practices. Then there was Cuong Oz with independent multi-series research and features on the underground youth culture of alcohol and drugs. The list goes on. The Fall Much of the boom was built on Yahoo 360, a social networking and blogging platform that was the first to enter the Vietnamese market. But while Yahoo 360 caught on in Vietnam, it was radically eclipsed in the rest of the world by other services such as Myspace and Facebook. By July 2009, Yahoo decided to close the service. It was little noticed elsewhere, but the decision had a dramatic impact on the blogging community in Vietnam. The death of Yahoo 360 spawned the annihilation of millions of online journals and “For the first time, my opinions counted, and I was listened to” Tu Nguyen, blogger a scattered exodus to a plethora of other sites, from Wordpress, Multiply, my.opera, Tumblr, Blogspot and Yahoo Plus (successor of Yahoo 360) to locally-supplied Zing, Yume, tamtay and others. In 2009, the number of Internet users visiting blogs dropped from 46 to 41 percent, and blog writers declined from 27 to 20 percent, according to market research agency Cimigo. Some bloggers continued. Robbey Le, Co Gai Do Long and others have survived and retained their loyal fans, but other pop culture bloggers either completely gave up or slowed down after moving to other hosting sites. “There was no point to invest feelings and thoughts in prose just to see everything suddenly vanish one day,” says Trang Tran. “Things’ve changed so much. There is no concentration of blogging culture anymore,” says Joe Ruelle, the most acclaimed—and only—Western blogging star in Vietnam. Joe, known by Vietnamese people as “Dau Tay” (a pun on his name that translates to “Western Berry”), became a phenomenon through his blog, which was written in uncannily fluent Vietnamese with adept observations about Vietnam’s life and culture. “It’s natural,” he says about the fall of the Yahoo 360 blogging community. “Vietnam is very receptive to fads. Everything can quickly come into fashion and quickly fade away.” From Robbey Le’s viewpoint as one of the most talked-about blogging stars, “Vietnam’s online world still lacks strong per- sonalities. Even in commenting, people fear backlash unless they keep their real identity in the closet and stay behind a mask.” The Renaissance Despite the fall of Yahoo 360, the online world has continued to evolve. In the present online world of Vietnam, sex and scandals are flooding popular websites. Quachdaica.info, a notorious site overflowing with sexual clips, provocative photos and scandals has become a model for other blogs and amateur entertainment sites. Contagious online “journals” of “hot boys” and “hot girls” (the words, remaining in English, were invented by Vietnam’s online community) are passed along via whispers and mischievous winks, primarily among younger cyber citizens. On a lower key, the literary, social and political enthusiasts gather in esoteric sites of their own. Online literature has been an emerging trend; Trang Ha and some other writer-bloggers initiated a website vanhocmang.net (online literature) as a new cyber turf for more serious writers. Teenagers have also joined the party and concocted a communication style for themselves. Translating the incomprehensible passages on her friends’ blogs, my 18-yearold sister explains: “We now write ‘p’ for ‘b’, ‘j’ for ‘i’, ‘w’ for ‘qu’ and ‘k’ for ‘c.’” Though it looks like code, there’s no discernible function; the substitutions are simply in fashion. For some, blogging has turned into opportunities in other media. Joe’s online fame led him into a career as TV show host and film star, as well as the publication of his blog entries as a book. Recently he again picked up the craft as a blogger for Dan Tri, a respected local news website. Other bloggers have also ventured beyond the cyberworld. Ha Kin signed a book deal for New York Love Story, a compilation of her blog entries under the same title. And Trang Ha, who at first translated a Chinese fiction translated as “Sorry you are just a slut” on her blog, later signed a book deal which was followed by a stage adaptation offer in 2010. Still, the heyday of the blogging craze is over, perhaps never to return. “It used to be a communal, eclectic house where I could learn from different blog pages. Somewhat like an information buffet,” says Trang Phạm, a PR executive. “Now I don’t know where I can find the prose to my taste. I have no clue where my favourite bloggers have gone. It’s all a big muddle.” asialife HCMC 37 The Greener Side of Hong Kong The rain started coming down in waves. It was the type of ocean storm that rolls in unexpectedly, soaking you to the core. Any rational person would have run for cover—but an overhang or building were nowhere in sight. I was hiking in Hong Kong's New Territories in the midst of green islands set along an undulating coast. Behind a veil of fog was the soundless steel-grey sea. What a strange feeling—to be in one of the world’s biggest cities and not have any shelter. Who knew such an enormous, futuristic place could accommodate such untamed, wild terrain? The Hong Kong we know and love is a place of size, urban density and scale. Vertigoinducing skyscrapers and crushes of pedestrians are the first images that spring to mind. But Hong Kong's municipal government is quietly working to change this perception. Since the 1970s, more than 20 country parks have opened across Hong Kong, a city of 1,100 sqkm with a population of seven million. Collectively these reserves cover more than 40 percent 38 asialife HCMC of the territory and harbour a wealth of natural species (1900 species of flower alone), plenty of unexpected discoveries and numerous activities. Hong Kong’s country parks manage to balance accessibility with remoteness and adventure. The trails are paved in many sections, and mobile phones have coverage if hikers hit a trouble spot. Hikers can choose to explore these spaces on their own or with tour companies like Walk Hong Kong. Whichever option you choose, you’re sure to see sparsely populated fishing villages, deserted beaches and hilly, coastal landscapes. To offset the typical itinerary of shopping, drinking and overindulging in the city, I set out to find a natural version of Hong Kong during a week-long visit. Famous hikes like the trail along Shek O Country Park’s “Dragon’s Back,” with views of the scenic seaside town of Stanley, are popular with visitors and residents alike. However, it was the dramatic terrain of Sai Kung East Country Park, located in Hong Kong’s New Territories—so named when the British took more land from China in 1898—that caught my eye. Just 20 km from the overcrowded region of Kowloon, it was easy to access by public transit yet had the remoteness I craved. My hike at Sai Kung began at the edge of the park’s reservoir, an enormous freshwater lake that provides much of Hong Kong’s drinking water. A ceiling of smoky-grey clouds hung low in the sky. Flushed with a murky, aquamarine hue, the reservoir mirrored the heavens. Rolling hills surrounding the lake were covered in bristlygreen plant life. I started hiking slowly, letting my footsteps and breathing find a comfortable rhythm. The trail snaked its way along the winding coast, looking out over the ocean. As I found myself removed from the shrill horns and blinking lightshow of the urban grid, the city’s claustrophobia melted away. In its place were crisp sea breezes and the crunch of gravel beneath my hiking shoes. Even the sudden rainstorm that rolled in couldn’t dampen my spirits. It was all part of the experience. About an hour into my hike, I ascended a ridge above a small wedge of beach below, home to a tiny fishing village. The ragtag collection of structures along the rest of the hiking path weren’t been much to look at—just a few crumbling buildings lining the street. A jumble of fishing nets dangled from a nearby fence before the town’s lone restaurant. But the view was more than enough. I was tired and ready for a lunch break. I sat at a beachfront plastic patio table at an eatery overlooked a sheltered bay enclosed by craggy rocks. As I chewed a heaped plate of Cantonese-style noodles, a pack of dogs wrestled and yelped in the sand. They made the only sounds, save for my chewing and the crashing of waves against the beach. Not a neon sign in sight. Hong Kong Hiking Information www.afcd.gov.hk www.hiking-hong-kong.com Guided Hikes www.walkhongkong.com The hillside Hong Kong Park is a fusion of artifice and nature. It features a soaring aviary surrounded by a twisting, elevated walkway from which visitors can spot exotic birds perched in the rain forest canopy. The park also has a visual arts centre, tai chi garden, game hall, playground and viewing tower. Both the Peak Tram and Botanical and Zoological Gardens are up the street. Kowloon Park between Canton and Nathan roads is best visited during early mornings, when locals can be seen exercising to a soundtrack of chirping birds and Cantopop. Everywhere you look, from the Chinese Garden to the Loggia, the whitewashed Islamic Centre to the Sculpture Park—even in the hedge maze—locals are stretching and jogging. Reward yourself for waking early with cheap, tasty dim sum at Very Good across from the Islamic Centre. Hop on the KCR East Railway to the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery in the northern New Territories. The 400-stair ascent is lined with life-size gold statues of the Buddha’s disciples, and leads to an ornate courtyard. The soaring walls of the main temple are lined with miniature sitting Buddhas—hence the name. Watch out for mischievous macaques lingering near the douhua (tofu in sugar syrup) booth and along the descent. Kowloon Walled City Park in New Kowloon was once a crime-ridden slum, but the local government appropriated the land and turned it into a walled park dotted with Eastern staples: banzai trees, sculpted hedges, lunar year statuary and traditional buildings linked by paths and promenades. The park is a short trip from the centre by bus or MTR (mass transit railway). For a more complete view of Victoria Peak, take the tourist tram to the top, but hop bus 15 on the way down. The open-air, double decker swerves along the 552-metre descent, making hairpin turns on a tightrope artery that offers great views of luxurious residences, little streets and cemeteries tucked into the mountainside. At the base, bus 15 continues into Soho and Central. Or if you really want to explore the Peak, you can hike the Peak Circuit Trail and/or the Pok Fu Lam Country Park Trail from the top. The trailhead is located near the Peak Tower and Galleria. Tom DiChristopher asialife HCMC 39 Patricia Wells, one of the foremost teachers and commentators on the art of French cuisine, has found a new love: Vietnamese food. Thomas Maresca visited the intrepid gastronome on her return to Hoi An. Photos By Fred Wissink. At the stunning Nam Hai Resort in Hoi An, Patricia Wells—for three decades synonymous with French cuisine, author of classic cookbooks such as Bistro Cooking and Simply French—stands in front of a group of students, giving instructions on how to make … spring rolls? If more evidence were needed that Vietnamese cuisine is finding its way onto the world culinary stage, this could be it. Wells has become the latest, and one of the most high-profile advocates of our local eats. The American-born Wells has lived in Paris for the past three decades with her husband, Walter, the former executive editor of the International Herald Tribune. Patricia was the restaurant critic for the Tribune, as well as L’Express, and has written 11 books. Today, she offers some of the most exclusive, in-demand 40 asialife HCMC cooking courses in the world in Paris and Provence. But last month, from May 9 to 14, Wells replaced the pot au feu with pho and left her home kitchens behind for the realm of clay pots, rice paper and lemongrass in order to teach a class of 14 students, primarily from the United States. This affair with Vietnamese cuisine is no fling, but a committed relationship. Wells first visited Vietnam in March 2009 to take a culinary tour of the country. (See “We’ll Always Have Dalat,” AsiaLIFE issue 13.) Over 10 days, Wells and Walter made their way from HCM City to Hanoi, along the way eating, learning about ingredients and talking to chefs and local growers. Wells was hooked. When she got back to France, she began preparations for her class. “The first thing I did was go to the Vietnamese market in Paris. There was one market, a 10-minute walk from my apartment, that had everything. Everything. I mean every herb, fresh ginger, the Asian eggplant. I just started cooking, cooking, cooking,” says Wells. Some things about Vietnamese cuisine were remarkably similar to the kind of cooking Wells already specialized in. Many of the same basic concepts—the daily trips to the market, the freshness of the ingredients, the extensive use of herbs—are staples of the kind of approach that Wells has long advocated. On the other hand, there are obvious differences. One is the more easygoing approach many Vietnamese take to recipes. “In a funny way it’s such a contrast to French cuisine, which has so many rules,” Wells says. “”Vietnamese cuisine has very few rules, just kind of parameters. In France, you’d say ‘You would never put this with lentils.’ Whereas here, if you don’t have green papaya, use something else. If you have mint, put mint in. If you have basil, put basil in. It’s not like this real dictatorship of herbs.” Vietnamese cuisine is also cooking stripped down to the basics. There are only a few cooking techniques—grilling, sautéing, deep frying, stir frying—and a relatively limited range of ingredients. “I joke that it’s like a language with ten words,” Wells says, “but the nuances are extraordinary.” After a year’s worth of cooking, and trial and error, Wells was ready to return with a stack of recipes. Her students were taken through a greatest hits of Vietnamese classics, from banh mi to banh xeo to cha ca la vong, as well as a turn through some repurposed French recipes. For instance, Wells took a velouté soup recipe she often made with langoustines back home, and adapted it with kaffir lime dust and local shrimp. Wells also brought in guest teachers from Hoi An’s Red Bridge Cooking School as well as chef Duc Tran from Mango Mango (whose Latin-infused Vietnamese dishes were a highlight). Vietnamese cuisine, while simple, proved deceptively hard to master, even for such an experienced chef. Most of Wells' Vietnamese tasters and helpers had an opinion, and at times, she says it was a humbling experience. The valet in Wells’ villa at the Nam Hai, for example, was a tough critic. Her shrimp wasn’t crispy enough. The shallots that Walter was cutting were too thin. The chef at the Nam Hai also dumped out a dipping sauce she had prepared for the class, saying it was too bitter. “Incredible. It’s a total education,” she says. “I’m learning something here every day.” The influences are a twoway street for Wells. While she brought her French techniques to bear on some Vietnamese dishes, she plans to bring Vietnam back to her French cuisine. “I’ve got so many inspirations for things I’m going to do with my French food when I get home,” she says. “Like the mango salad—I’m going to do it with melon, and put a lot of basil and mint into it, and tomato and avocado. I think it will be really delicious.” Wells is also bringing ingredients back to France, such as sawtooth coriander (“my new obsession,” she calls it) and green, unprocessed rice. Ultimately, the French food expert would like to expand her published repertoire. “I’d love to do a Vietnamese cookbook,” Wells says. “If my editor said yes, I’d do it tomorrow. I just don’t know how much market there will be, because I’m not seen as an Asian author. It’s like a whole new bag of tricks. But it would just be a fun thing to do.” Pairing Wine with Vietnamese Food Wells brought her gastronomic experience to the question of pairing wine with Vietnamese food, in an accompanying handout to her class and at a wine-tasting event. “Contrary to what most of us have been taught, wine is better with Vietnamese food than beer,” she writes. While the intense spiciness of some Asian foods are a difficult match with wine, Vietnamese flavours are milder, derived more from herbs such as coriander, lemongrass, mint, ginger and lime, rather than hot peppers. Softer, less tannic reds such as Pinot Noirs can work well with Vietnamese dishes, but Wells advises to look first to whites when choosing a wine. German Rieslings are a good choice, with high acidity, low alcohol and a balanced sweetness. A flinty Sauvignon Blanc can go well with rolls or deep-fried dishes, and a more complex Chardonnay from a mineral-laden terroir such as Chablis, would be a match for lighter, noodle-based entrees. Wines with floral notes such as Gewurztraminers, make a good complement to lemongrass. If all else fails, Wells recommends to “think pink” and look at rosés. A fruity, refreshing young wine can blend well and add a festive air to a meal. Tavel rosé from Mordorée is her favourite. asialife HCMC 41 After their weeklong cooking class, Wells’ students voted on their favourite dishes. These light, flavourful meals were the highest votegetters, and are two of Wells’ own favourites. In the first of his ongoing contributions to AsiaLIFE, Richard Sterling introduces us to a stalwart of old Saigon: the Pho Lady of the Casbah. Pork with Green Beans, Ginger and Fresh Coriander 4 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 plump clove garlic, peeled, halved, green germ removed, and minced 5 tablespoons minced fresh ginger 1 tablespoon minced lemongrass 6 ounces lean minced pork 2 teaspoons Vietnamese chile sauce (or to taste) 4 tablespoons garlic chile sauce (or to taste) 6 thin spring onions or scallions, white part only, sliced into 3/4-inch pieces 1/2 pound thin green beans, trimmed at both ends, blanched, refreshed and cut into small pieces, 1/2 to 3/4 inches 1 tablespoon fish sauce, preferably Phu Quoc brand Grilled Lemongrass Prawns 1 pound raw, shelled shrimp 1/4 cup sugar 1/3 cup fish sauce, preferably Phu Quoc brand 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 stalks lemongrass, trimmed, outer leaves removed, sliced paper thin 1. In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar and fish sauce until the sugar is completely dissolved. Stir in the oil and lemongrass. Add the shrimp and toss to evenly coat the shellfish. Cover securely and refrigerate for 2 hours, tossing every 30 minutes or so. 2. Prepare charcoal or wood for a medium-sized fire in a barbecue. Let it burn until the coals glow red and are covered with ash. Thoroughly oil the grill, using a paper towel dipped in vegetable oil. Set the grill in place. (Alternatively, preheat a gas or electric grill.) Grill the prawns until cooked through and pink, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Variation: The squid version is equally as delicious. Substitute 1 pound whole squid, skinned and cleaned, for the prawns. In step 3, marinate for 1 hour, and in step 4, grill for 1-2 minutes per squid. 4 to 6 servings Note: The ingredients can be prepared in advance but do not marinate for more than 2 hours or flavors may dull and salt will penetrate the shrimp. Note: If a grill is not available, sear the shrimp in a wok for several minutes, until pink and thoroughly cooked. © Patricia Wells 42 asialife HCMC For the garnish: 1 tablespoon sesame seeds or 2 tablespoons chopped pan- roasted peanuts De-stemmed fresh herbs (coriander, and/or coarsely chopped mint or Chinese basil) 1. In a dry skillet at room temperature, combine the oil, garlic, lemongrass and ginger. Stir to coat all ingredients and cook over medium heat until fragrant and lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Add the pork and cook until the meat separates into pieces and just cooks through, about 3 minutes. 2. Reduce the heat to low, add the chile and garlic sauces, spring onions, green beans and fish sauce, and carefully mix until well combined. Taste for seasoning. Cook until all the flavours have blended together, 1 or 2 minutes more. Serve with rice, garnished with a lot of fresh herbs. 4 to 6 servings © Patricia Wells Pan-Roasted Peanuts 8 ounces raw shelled peanuts 2 tablespoons peanut oil or other mild, unflavored oil 3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt In a dry wok, combine all the ingredients. Pan-roast over medium heat until the nuts are fragrant and cooked a light golden brown, tossing regularly, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool. (Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.) © Patricia Wells When I first came to Saigon in the early 1990s, I found a charming and slow-moving little low-rise city whose tallest building was the then 10-storey Caravelle Hotel. Clerks in the then few banks spoke French and closed up shop from noon to two for “le dejeuner.” But soon the leisurely lady bestirred herself and began to rise. Office and hotel towers shot up like bamboo and sugar cane, seemingly overnight. In a twinkling of history's eye the sleepy town of a thousand charms transformed herself into a city of big shoulders and pounding energies. Urban canyons began to muscle out the leafy villas and the quiet cul-de-sacs. And the acres and acres of sidewalk eateries, the clusters of bistros and bakeries, improvised coms and phos, and mobile sinh to stands served their last, tipped their caps and then succumbed to urban progress. No doubt the populace is materially better off. But where went the city's charm? Especially its edible and drinkable charm? Watch this space. I'll be tracking it for you. The city's gastronomic charm is still to be found, in places high and low, old and new. It's available for anything from a few coins to a gold card. One place to find the old city's charm is in the hems, those tangles of dark and narrow alleyways that in every neighbourhood conspire to form a mini Casbah. Delve into one of these urban cave complexes. Choose any one, wherever you see a shadowy portal quietly beckoning. Perhaps the ensuing lane is so narrow that opposing balconies on the second floors are close enough that neighbours can shake hands or borrow a cup of sugar. You may see little shops, little hotels, little cafes, little dwellings, little everything. For here, despite the city's staggering increase, the human scale is maintained. In these living grottoes you may hear the clatter of mahjong tiles, kids shouting in their play, the music of caged song birds and the clanging and banging of cookery. You may smell the urgency of garlic, the sting of chilli, the insistence of durian and the flower of coriander. Here is where intimate dining takes place. Here is where little knots of alfresco diners gather as families, friends or couples to commune at a tiny table with tiny chairs at the tiniest restaurants in the world. Yes, here in the little nooks and crannies of the big city there is always something good to eat, and a good and welcoming place to eat it. The Pham has a Casbah that you can easily find. It snakes through the blocks from Cong Quynh to Nguyen Thai Hoc. Most of it is between Do Quang Dao and De Tham, but a few paces east of De Tham is “Mini Hotel Alley.” If you know Asian Kitchen or Bread and Butter (or the back side of Le Pub) you know the alley. At the southwest corner of the alley, where it spills out onto Bui Vien, you'll find Miss Ba, the Pho Lady of the Pham. In the daytime this is just an empty spot on the shoulder of the road. But for 20 years, about sundown most days, Miss Ba has wheeled her battered old charcoal burning push-cart kitchen into place here. If you come in or out of the alley here of an evening and the breeze is with you, you can catch a whiff of what might be the best pho in town. It's redolent of star anise and good beef bones, suggestive of cinnamon and assertive of the care of a good cook who worries over it for hours before offering it to you. I like to take a battered little stool next to a battered little table and lean against the adjacent building for a bit of back support. She sells nothing but pho, but she'll nip round the corner for a beer or soda if I wish. On a recent night I sat watching her at her timeless task. A brand new shiny BMW was double parked next to her ancient humble cart. How will that thing look in 20 years? And will it bring as many people as much pleasure? Across the narrows of Bui Vien a new, bright and tall boutique with big picture windows looked down its lofty modern nose at her anachronism. She will still be here when the boutique is yet another souvenir shop or art gallery or Indian restaurant. The neon flashed at GO2 and the music thundered at Crazy Buffalo. I remember when the former was a spring roll shop and the latter was a little restaurant that killed its chickens to order. In view of the diner. And Miss Ba was here. How she and the Casbah have survived the radical and ongoing transformation of the Pham I don't know, and I do care. I want her to bottle the secret and sell it. Richard Sterling asialife HCMC 43 'TIS THE SEASON FOR FRUIT Rambais (dau da) 44 asialife HCMC Langsats (bon bon/lon bon) Rambutans (chom chom) Mangosteens (mang cut) Custard Apples (mang cau/na) Durian (sau rieng) Guavas (oi) Juicy Plums (man) Avocados (bo) The fruit season is here and market crates everywhere are brimming with exotic offerings. Alexandra Karina visits the local market to sample the stands. Photos by Fred Wissink. Stroll by the market this month and you’re sure to be greeted by an array of vibrant colours and intoxicatingly sweet aromas beckoning to your senses—and your appetite. While Vietnam’s fruit season starts in May, it is in June that the offerings are at their prime, ripe and ready for the noshing. With the markets overflowing with an abundance of juicy gems, there’s simply no better time for a bit of tastetesting. Among the lesser known of Southeast Asian fruits are rambais (dau da) and langsats (bon bon/lon bon). While the two look similar enough to be mistaken for siblings within the same fruit family, they are actually unrelated. Both fruits are oval globes the size of large grapes, with translucent white segments of sweet-tart goodness. However, the yellowish beige skin of langsats is coarser and darker than that of rambais, and their flesh is usually not as sweet. To eat: Nick the nose of the fruit and either gently squeeze to pop the fruit open or peel away the skin. Take care not to bite into any seeds before spitting them out, as they can be quite bitter. Rambutans (chom chom) get their name from the Malay word for hair, “rambut,” and the “hairy cherries” are indeed covered with soft, fleshy hairs. Each globe is about 3 cm in diameter and encases a single seed. When ripe, the hairy shell turns a bright red. The translucent pulp is firm, sweet-tart and slightly grapelike. To eat: Locate the groove running the circumference of the shell. Press the shell perpendicularly to the seam to pop the fruit open, and enjoy. Mangosteens (mang cut) are considered to be among the most delightful of fruits. The exterior of a mangosteen resembles a fist-sized purple pomegranate with thick, leathery skin. The juicy gems are ripe and ready for eating when the skin attains a deep purple hue. The fruit is segmented, and the number of lobes on the bottom of the fruit indicates the number of segments found within. Larger segments contain seeds that are firmly attached to the meaty, snowy-white flesh, which is bursting with the perfect balance of sweet and acidic, with a hint of pineapple. To eat: Use a knife to cut through the pliable skin at the equator and remove the bottom half of the skin. The segments will stay attached to the stem end. Wrestle the flesh from the seeds. Vietnamese custard apples (mang cau/na) are heart-shaped with bumpy, green skin. From afar, one might actually mistake the fruit for an artichoke. The sweet, creamy white sections protect up to 80 glossy seeds. While that might make the custard apple sound like a troublesome treat, the fruit is actually quite easy to consume, since the seeds separate from the sections effortlessly. To eat: Either scrape the skin off with a knife and dig in or halve the fruit and scoop the flesh out with a spoon, spitting out the seeds as you go. With its pungent odour and formidable shell of thorns, the durian (sau rieng, or “one’s own sorrows”) is truly a love-it-orhate-it fruit. The smell can be so offensive that durians are banned from many airports and major hotels. The fruit’s thorny armour protects large sections of buttery yellow pulp reminiscent of rich, creamy custard flavoured with a touch of almonds—the decadent reward for those who can stomach its strong scent. To eat: Have a vendor or a brave soul pry open the shell and remove the pulpy sections. Guavas (oi) are orbs usually 4 to 12 cm in circumference, with a somewhat lemony scent and green skin that may turn yellow or maroon as the fruit ripens, depending on the variety. There are two varieties sold in Vietnam. The flesh of a ripened red-flesh guava (oi ruot do) is vibrant pink, whereas the more popular variety, known simply as ai, remains white. Some say picking oi ruot do takes a bit of luck; you may be rewarded with unbelievably sweet, fragrant flesh, or end up with a bland hunk of fruit. The white-fleshed oi is more consistent overall, with texture and taste not unlike an apple’s: crisp and sweet, but subtler with a more floral scent. To eat: Slice the fruit into wedges. Carve out the centre and discard the seeds. Munch away, or do as the locals often do and dip the wedges in fish sauce seasoned with salt, sugar and chilli peppers. For anyone looking for treats that are perhaps a bit less exotic, juicy plums (man) and buttery avocados (bo) are also in season. Regardless of your preferences, the season’s offerings are sure to have something to delight your senses. Earlier this year, the first national Fruit Festival was held in the Mekong Delta to hail the coming fruit season. Now that the season’s in full swing, why not invite some fruit-loving buddies out on a market excursion and have a mini-fruit festival of your own? asialife HCMC 45 La Brasserie Saigon South inherits HCM City’s French culinary legacy. The suburbs of Phu My Hung have a few quality-of-life advantages over the city centre— wide boulevards, comparatively clean air, front lawns—but when it comes to dining, there’s been one conspicuous disadvantage for too long: an absence of French fare. That recently changed with the opening of La Brasserie. Located down a small, tree-lined street adjacent to Sky Garden 3, the restaurant occupies a sizable space, and for good reason. As the only French restaurant south of District 1, the owners have covered all their bases, offering table service in the dining room and adjacent garden, a menu tailor-made for takeout and a dedicated wine bar— another first for D7. At the core of La Brasserie is a mission to bring HCM City diners a traditional, authentic dining experience familiar throughout France. “A brasserie in France, in fact, is a mixture of traditional foods from France and a steakhouse,” says Philippe Bouveret, one of La Brasserie’s four partners. The a la carte menu is in keeping with that tradition. A meal might begin with a port-flavoured chicken terrine served with hot, fresh bread and progress to beef steak with frites and salad, a brasserie classic, or salmon paired with sea bass filet and a gratin of potatoes and cauliflower. Dessert is concocted largely from local ingredients and ranges from passion fruit sorbet to whipped banana dumplings in straw46 asialife HCMC berry coulis. La Brasserie also offers a set menu determined day to day by visits to the market. A recent menu featured iced cucumber soup, salmon filet with leak and apple tart (entrée-main or main-dessert, 195,000 VND). A regular set menu of smoked salmon, steak filet with mushroom sauce and dessert is also available (250,000 VND). Next door the take-out kitchen is being prepped to begin serving up a selection of salads, pastas, mains and breakfast items, including French and English breakfasts, crepes and fromage blanc. While the offerings are diverse, one thing they all share in common, says Bouveret, is that they travel well from La Brasserie’s kitchen to the customer’s door; the takeout menu was carefully devised to assure this was the case. The wine bar, under construction when AsiaLIFE visited, will be serviced by a 1,500-bottle wine cellar—yes, a real cellar—that’s kept at 18 degrees Celsius, “the exact temperature you have in a French cellar,” says Bouveret. The operation may seem ambitious for the sleepy suburbs of Phu My Hung, but Bouverie says the goal is to make La Brasserie a destination not just for the District 7 set, but the whole of HCM City, as well. 61 Hung Gia 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 4317 Open from 8am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Bernie’s Bar and Grill Tuck into an imported steak and grilled fare at this new dining venue. Tender, juicy steak is the specialty at District 1 venue Bernie’s Bar and Grill, which recently opened it doors among a strip of restaurants and bars at 19 Thai Van Lung. “We’re a bar and grill—a bit of a steakhouse—specialising in imported, certified steaks,” says owner Bernie McCune. These include the grilled Australian Rib Eye (249,000 VND) and grilled certified American Angus Rib Eye (550,000 VND). While steak is the speciality, it’s only the beginning. Guests can enjoy fish and chips in a private dining room or duck pate with a glass of red at the bar; this three-storey establishment aims to pique everyone’s interest by somehow being casual and upscale. On entering, guests are greeted by a chilled café setting complete with a large espresso machine behind the front window. This gives way to a long, marble-top bar, a glasswalled wine cellar and a clean and uncluttered dining area. A water feature beside the staircase cascades down the entire three floors of the restaurant. The dining area extends to both upper floors, with the first floor fronted by a deck overlooking the street. Restaurateur Geoffrey Deetz has been at the controls of the food and beverage menus. Starters include gourmet nibbles like homemade duck pate with hazelnuts“and things” (75,000 VND), while the menu’s pannini and sandwich section features the Norwegian Club Sandwich with cream cheese on wheat and rye marbled bread (120,000 VND). Seafood dishes change weekly depending on what’s available from the Nha Trang fish farm owned by Bernie’s in-laws. Pasta plates made with cooked-to-order angel hair and fettucine, thin crust pizzas and pastries and cakes, including twice-baked biscotti (45,000 VND), boost the selection. Two burgers, both served on homemade black sesame seed buns, acknowledge owners Bernie and Kiki McCune’s Australian and Japanese origins. There’s the classic Aussie Bernie Burger, with house-grilled Australian beef topped with beetroot, fried egg, lettuce, tomato and onion (125,000 VND). Meanwhile, the Teriyaki Kiki Burger features grilled poultry with a teriyaki glaze topped with grilled pineapple and onion, micro-greens and wasabi mayonnaise (120,000 VND). “You have to have fun with your food to bring a personality to your restaurant,” says Deetz. “Money can buy a beautiful bar, but it can’t produce soul.” Deetz has applied that approach to the drinks menu, as well. It features smoothies, cocktails, premium wines, liquor and arguably Vietnam’s largest cosmopolitan, aptly named “The Titanic” (450,000 VND). “With half a bottle of Stoli, 300ml of cranberry juice and 75ml of triple sec, it will sink you if you dare have it alone—better to share this one,” Bernie says with a smile. 19 Thai Van Lung, District 1 Tel: 3822 2684 Open from 7.30am to midnight asialife HCMC 47 Leonard Cohen Comes to Cambodia Seldom has a musician of Leonard Cohen's stature performed in Phnom Penh. Mark Bibby Jackson of AsiaLIFE Guide Phnom Penh talks to the men responsible for bringing the groundbreaking concert to Cambodia. Photos courtesy of AEG Live. Legendary musician and songwriter Leonard Cohen will play Phnom Penh's Olympic Stadium on November. 27. In what promoters AEG Live call a "landmark concert" Cohen has agreed to perform the only Southeast Asian gig on his current world tour in the Cambodian capital. Chris Minko, founder of The Mekong Sessions Concert Series, claims the concert heralds the renaissance of the Cambodia of the 1960s, where Phnom Penh was seen as the Pearl of Southeast Asia. "This concert demonstrates that Cambodia has successfully emerged from the tragic events of civil conflict in the recent past and re-ignites its wellestablished tradition of cultural excellence," he says. Cohen’s concert is the first in a series of Mekong Sessions that will, says Minko, bring more 48 asialife HCMC rock greats to Phnom Penh. He claims the Sessions will play a large part in stimulating Cambodia’s tourism industry, which has suffered in recent years from the global recession and unrest just across the border in Thailand. "Mekong Sessions is long term," says Minko. "It has the biggest tourism potential that the country has seen in decades." With a large regional expat market targeted for the 5,000-seater stadium, the knockon social-economic benefits for the country are clear; many concert-goers will also visit Angkor Wat. AEG Live’s president Rob Hallett is keen to emphasize the significance of Prime Minister Samdech Hun Sen and his wife Lok Chumteav Bun Rany, president of the Cambodian Red Cross, supporting the concert. Proceeds from the concert will be donated to the Cambodian Red Cross and Cambodian landmine survivors. At first the choice of Cohen may seem a strange one to start the renaissance of Phnom Penh. Dubbed "the poet laureate of pessimism" and “the godfather of gloom,” Cohen’s style is more often associated with sombre reflection than rebirth. However, the career of the poet, songwriter and performer who was born shortly before Elvis Presley in 1934 has intriguing parallels with Cambodia’s own rock industry. Already a successful poet in his native Canada, Cohen was a late starter as a musician. His first album Songs of Leonard Cohen was only released in 1967. This was the year the 19-yearold Ros Sereysothea released her first song "Stung Khieu" in Phnom Penh. The "Golden Voice of the Royal Capital, together with Sinn Sisamouth," was to lead the Cambodian rock scene of the late 1960s and early 1970s, creating a distinctive psychedelic rock sound. Like Sinn Sinamouth, Ros Sereysothea disappeared during the Khmer Rouge period, which destroyed the country’s nascent music scene. Despite attaining cult rock status in the 1980s, Cohen went into voluntary exile in the 1990s. Ordained as a Buddhist monk in 1996, he spent five years in Mount Baldy Zen Centre near Los Angeles. The low-point of his 40-year career was surely the civil case he took out against his former manager, Kelley Lynch, in 2005. Lynch misappropriated more than USD $5 million from Cohen’s retirement fund, report- edly leaving the artist with only $150,000. Cohen won the case but has yet to see the money. What was Cohen’s loss has been his fans’ gain. In 2008 Cohen started his first tour in 15 years with a concert in Fredericton, New Brunswick. The tour has included acclaimed performances at festivals around the world, including The Big Chill, the Montreal Jazz Festival and the Pyramid Stage at the 2008 Glastonbury Festival. His Glastonbury performance was hailed by many as the highlight of the festival. The performance of his anthemic "Hallelujah" received a rapturous reception. The Dominion Post’s Simon Sweetman described Cohen’s Wellington concert as "the best show I have ever seen." His Dublin concert sold out in a matter of minutes after being put on the website. And sources close to the management group say that the Phnom Penh concert will also be a sell-out with many advance sales. So why has the musician, who is a member of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, has received a Grammy Lifetime Achievement Award and will on June 17 be inducted into the Songwriters Hall of Fame, decided to perform in Phnom Penh? Despite the problems with his former manager, it most certainly is not for the money. Minko confirms that Cohen has dropped his normal fee significantly in order to make this concert happen. You sense that the management team is genuine when they state: "This is not just another concert; this is a historic cultural event." Cohen’s manager Robert Kory even stresses the cultural significance of the venue. "In keeping with the groundbreaking nature of this event, the concert will be held indoors at the Olympic Stadium, a rare example of the work of famous Khmer architect Vann Molyvann,” he says. “His buildings are a living reminder of the days of Phnom Penh’s former cultural stature.” The artist who once said: "I really do feel the enormous luck I’ve had in being able to make a living, and to never have had to have written one word that I didn’t want to write,” will now be bringing his words to Phnom Penh. When asked by Clash magazine this past March what he considered his greatest career achievement, Hallett, who helped launch the careers of such acts as Duran Duran, said: "There have been so many proud moments… but most of all bringing Leonard Cohen back to the stage in order that a whole new generation can truly understand the meaning of sublime." Minko, who as secretary general of CNVLD has brought two volleyball world cups to the capital, sees the concert as the crowning achievement for all the hard work done by the organisation. "Fifteen years of work leads to Leonard Cohen," he says. Whether it's a crowning achievement or a renaissance only history will tell. But one thing is for sure: it will be a damn good gig. Details of how tickets can be bought will be released on July. 1. AsiaLIFE Guide Phnom Penh will be giving away two tickets for the concert – details of how to apply will be released next month. asialife HCMC 49 Bamboo Business Can bamboo provide an answer to poverty? Lolita Guevarra examines how one NGO is taking unusual measures to create a high-value market for disadvantaged farmers. Dr. John Marsh is banking on bamboo. The grass—it’s not a tree, contrary to popular belief—grows quickly and abundantly. And unlike trees, farmers don’t need to replant bamboo; if harvested correctly, a bamboo stalk can grow back from its original root. Nor do bamboo crops need to be rotated to mature, which takes three to four years, as opposed to two or more decades for trees. In addition to providing a strong construction material, bamboo is also used to create kitchenware and clothing, and its shoots can be eaten. That’s why Dr. Marsh, in his role as executive director of NGO Prosperity Initiative, is leading a team of economists and social workers to further implement the Mekong Bamboo Project of Oxfam Hong Kong, a venture that focused on the bamboo sector as a tool in poverty reduction. Headquartered in Hanoi and funded by grants from the International Finance Corporation and the UK’s Sustainable Development Commission, Prosperity Initiative operates under the stewardship of economists, whose methods might seem atypical of your average NGO’s approach. Rather than partnering with one or two villages, they aim to strengthen the bamboo sector as a whole. It might at first seem like a purely entrepreneurial pursuit, but there’s a purpose behind the approach. By working behind the scenes to increase demand in the market for high-value, aged bamboo, Prosperity Initiative influences bamboo prices in favour of farmers. "You can't help the poor farmers by just helping them at their level," says Dr. Marsh. "You need to provide a high-demand market because that will allow the farmers to raise their prices." 50 asialife HCMC Luong bamboo flourishes in northern and central Vietnam, providing an ideal source of long-term income for impoverished communities. However, the market is currently driven by sales of raw material, with prices being set based on weight rather than age. Consequently, farmers tend to wait only one year before cultivating culms, the hollow stems of bamboo plants. Prosperity Initiative promotes aged culms to current and potential distributors so that farmers need only plug into the market. A market for aged culms also encourages farmers to harvest bamboo at a sustainable pace. Prematurely cutting culms prevents proper reproduction, a dangerous precursor to clearing more land for bamboo clusters. "If you use harvested culms that are three to four years old, it's more sustainable," explains Dr. Marsh. Farmers often overlook the impact of harvesting young culms, particilarly those who face hunger daily. Vietnam already suffers from a thriving illegal timber trade and excessive paper milling, and it could face further degradation if land is cleared for bamboo plantations to meet rising market demands. "[Farmers] need to be taught how to grow [bamboo plants] and harvest them correctly," says Vy Van Dzung, a botanist currently working as a consultant for various local and international organizations. “[They] need technique, funding and regulation for bamboo sustainability." Another problem, says Vy, is that the main species harvested in northwest Vietnam is the luong bamboo, which grows in clusters in the same area because its seeds do not spread vastly. According to Vy, Vietnam’s northern neigh- bour China is a role model in conducting in-depth research on bamboo breeds. "China pays attention to the different species," says Prof. Vy. "[China] employs specialists to properly understand the species and how to harvest them for optimal benefits." Currently, China leads the bamboo market, with private firms operating in the country earning tens of millions of euros a year according to listings on Germany’s Frankfurt Stock Exchange. Acknowledging this success, Prosperity Initiative has aligned itself with China’s Anji Bamboo business association. The Anji region possesses the country’s largest bamboo growth area and contains a research base that hosts scholars from the International Network for Bamboo and Rattan to promote bamboo development in China and abroad. Although Prosperity Initiative is primarily focused on poverty reduction, Dr. Marsh and Vy agree that proper bamboo cultivation has the potential to alleviate deforestation and provide a stable and profitable market for ethnic minorities. In the first two years since its inception, Prosperity Initiative has elevated 21,000 individuals out of poverty and continues to expand its mission in Laos and Cambodia. The NGO has also partnered with various national agencies in participating countries, incorporating strategic planning in hopes of empowering locals to manage the sector themselves and eliminate poverty across the board. By employing a vast array of foreign and national experts, Prosperity Initiative is demonstrating to the Vietnamese that money doesn’t grow on trees, but it can be made from smart, sustainable bamboo production. Ginny Becker learns about the 4,000-year-old healing art of qigong and how receiving energy can improve health and well-being. Photo by Fred Wissink. When HCM City resident Nongluck Noomprasith, who goes by the nickname Yui, was diagnosed with stomach cancer in October 2009, she followed her doctor’s advice and underwent chemotherapy and stomach removal surgery. She also turned to an herbalist, who prescribed Thai remedies. But as the cancer progressed, Yui became desperate for relief from the constant pain and exhaustion. Friends suggested Yui try Mahamudra qigong, an ancient she began executing yoga poses that Eckhart is convinced she wouldn’t have had the strength to perform had she not taken up qigong. “They weren’t done as elegantly as someone who practices regularly, but her body was somehow forming the poses. It was amazing.” More About Qigong To better understand the couple’s experience, it is important to clear up a common misconception. Qigong is not synony- “It’s about learning how to listen to your own body as it already is and how it reacts to your focus” Dennis Haney Buddhist system of energy medicine that relies on breathing techniques, movement and meditation to cleanse, strengthen, circulate and eventually receive the body’s life energy, or qi. The following week, Yui and her husband, Eckhart Dutz, attended a two-week qigong course affiliated with the Phu Nhuan District Association of Traditional Medicine, taught by Tran Nguyen Ha, a head trainer of Mahamudra qigong. Since then, they have been amazed at what has transpired. Eckhart recalls a morning when Yui was especially weak, but nonetheless attempted to practice qigong. As Yui progressed through the movements, mous with the popular healing art of tai chi, which is also said to circulate energy. “Tai chi is a collection of fixed poses that are taught,” explains Nguyen Quyet Thang of the Phu Nhuan District Association of Traditional Medicine. “After five or 10 years of practice, the student will finally reach the same energy level as the teacher. But in qigong, that same energy is transmitted anywhere between three and 10 days of practicing for one hour per day. It’s a major shortcut to receiving the energy.” Thang says that when a person receives qi, they know it. “The energy in your body is like electricity, just like when you turn on a lamp, you receive light,” he says. Qi awakens the body, explains Thang, often causing people to feel hot and see light through closed eyes. Some even smell perfumes, although most typically, qi is experienced as a physical force that moves through the hands. The effects of qigong haven’t gone unnoticed in the research world. According to the U.S. based Qigong Research and Practice Center, thousands of qigong studies have been conducted in China and more recently in the West. Research has reported positive effects on the cardiovascular, respiratory, musculoskeletal, circulatory and immune systems, as well as improvement in mental health and lessening of chronic pain. Go With The Flow To many who practice qigong, Yui’s apparently mysterious ability to execute yoga poses is not actually a mystery, but an example of the power of qi to direct the body. Fellow HCM City practitioner Dennis Haney says he too has experienced positive results since taking up qigong in a bid to alleviate chronic back pain. “It’s about learning how to listen to your own body as it already is and how it reacts to your focus,” he says. In Haney’s experience, you don’t tell your muscles to move when you receive qi. Instead, the muscles move on their own. That said, don’t expect that time spent learning this art will make you a yoga master. Thang points out that a person’s health and energy level, physical disposition and mood, as well as the outward environment are what elicit movements and poses. To facilitate this process, instructors teach students to open themselves to a stimulation process that promotes relaxation, concentration and visualization, all independent from verbal communication. For this reason, the student does not need to share a language with the teacher. Eckhart says that even though their first classes were conducted in Vietnamese, he and Yui both felt they received energy simply by focusing and following the instructor’s movements. He compares the relationship between student and teacher to that of a magnet and iron, with the magnet attracting the iron. “It’s amazing that in a group of 100 people practicing qigong together, most are able to follow, and if you look at the people who attend, some have serious diseases,” Eckhart says. “I’ve found qigong to be an amazing way that everyone can improve physically, mentally and spiritually.” While qigong hasn’t improved Yui’s overall condition, she reports having more energy and feeling peaceful during and after her sessions. For that, Eckhart is thankful. For more information on qigong and upcoming public classes, call Thang on 012 8535 2288 or email Eckhart Dutz at eckartdutz@mac. com. For children, the first trip to the dentist can be fraught with fear. Amanda Peatey from Westcoast International Clinic offers tips to acquaint your kids with healthy dental habits. Photo by Fred Wissink. Model Simon Tailyour. The most frequently asked question we hear from parents is, “At what age should I start to take my child to the dentist?” The simple answer: It is far more effective to be proactive rather than reactive when it comes to the health of our little family members' mouths. First visits should not occur after children have fallen down and cracked a tooth, nor when they are in need of multiple fillings. If you wait to take your children to the dentist until there’s a problem, they will associate pain and fear with the dental experience. It doesn’t have to be this way. Dentistry has changed dramatically over the last 20 years. The focus is now on providing quality preventative dental care, as well as an environment and services that support your family’s well-being and make everyone involved feel comfortable. Begin by bringing your children along to your appointment. This way, they become used to the sights, sounds and smells of a dental clinic. Remember to be brave and positive. For the first dental appointment, early mornings are always good. Wake up, have breakfast and come right in. This way your child will not have all day to think about it. Also, let firsttimers know that you’ve made an appointment, and inform 54 asialife HCMC them of the day and time. If questions arise, calmly explain that it is a special privilege to be able to see a dentist. Going to the dentist can be portrayed as fun; the dentist counts your teeth for you and lets you sit in the special chair. If you can’t embellish a little and believe it yourself, elect another family member who can. Children read us better than we think. Whatever you do, do not begin the conversation with bribery (i.e., "If you are good at the dentist, I will get you the toy truck you wanted.”) This is another sure way of instilling negative feelings about the dentist; clearly if you need to entice kids to go somewhere, it’s nowhere they want to be. When you arrive on the big day, make sure you mention to the reception desk that this is your child’s first time. If the office has toys, television or Internet, show up a bit early and let them play before their appointment. When it comes time to see the dentist, be positive: “It's our turn to go in now!” Accompany your child into the examination room and let him or her climb into the chair. If your little patient refuses, try not to fuss. Even if you prepare for the visit to the best of your ability, some children just refuse to sit down and open wide. Do not force your child, as this will only heighten the anxiety that he or she is surely feeling. Be patient and understanding. In tough cases, have a big brother or sister model getting into the chair and letting the dentist have a look—or do so yourself. After the examination, have a chat with the dentist and ask for some advice on how your child should look after his or her teeth. This helps youngsters get used to a dental environment. With these tips, your child should leave the dentist office with a bright, healthy smile. Dr. Leanne Holland and Dr. Claire Kervyn, dentists in the area of children’s dentistry at Westcoast International Clinic in HCM City, contributed insight and information to this article. asialife HCMC 55 ETROSPECTIVE The CEO Jamie & Owen Rossall Gaynor Stogdale & Eleni Pistolas 62 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 63 The Jonny PUNK & Tom Lâm Edbrooke The Entrepreneur Jonathan & Simon Tailyour 64 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 65 listings Jetstar Pacific www.jetstar.com Budget branch of Australian Qantas flies into Can Tho, Danang, Hanoi, Hai Phong, HCM City, Hue, Nha Trang and Vinh and operates cheap flights from HCM City to Siem Reap and Bangkok. Check out Friday Fare Frenzy online promotion from 2 to 5pm every Friday. hotel & travel Malaysia Airlines www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex. AIRLINES Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur. Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to the Hong Kong’s international airport. Fares start at about $300. escape Philippine Airways 229 Dong Khoi, D3 Tel: 3822 2241 www.philippineairlines.com Operates daily service from HCM City to Manila, offering fare options through the PAL Econo Light Class. Thai Airways 65 Nguyen Du, Tel: 3829 2810 29 Le Duan, D1 www.thaiair.com Bangkok-based airline connects twice daily between the Thai capital and HCM City and Hanoi. Multiple daily flights are also operated from both to Phnom Penh and Phuket. VASCO Vietnam Airlines office, 116 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3842 2790 www.vasco.com.vn Though it’s primary business is cargo shipment, Vietnam Air Service Company (VASCO) flies daily from HCM City to Con Dao and makes connections to lesser-known cities like Ca Mau, Tuy Hoa and Chu Lai. Buy tickets at the Vietnam Airlines office. Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 94 Tran Quoc Toan Tel: 942 0848 HCM City: 116 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamair.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco. CON DAO ATC Hotel 16B Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 666 Rustic little 4-room, family-run guesthouse in converted French administra- Saigon Con Dao Resort 18-24 Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 155 www.saigoncondaoresort.com Opened in summer 2009, Saigon Tourist’s 82-room hotel has a restaurant, swimming pool, tennis court and health club with sauna. Another 30 villas are available in adjacent sister hotel, a renovated colonial-era administration building. Tours organised by hotel. DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La take flight with travel promotions around the region The Ocean Dunes Golf Club and Novotel Phan Thiet have launched stay-andplay packages valid until October 3 this year. Ocean Dunes is one of Vietnam’s most acclaimed golf courses, designed four resorts: Blue Ocean Resort at Mui Ne, Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon, Life Heritage Resort Hoi An and the newlyopened Life Resort Danang. Starting from USD $199, the package includes two-nights accommodation in a superior room for two people, breakfast, a $30 food and beverage voucher, 30-minute treatment at Life Spa and complimentary airport transfer. Visit www.life-resorts. com. Windsor Plaza Hotel Until June 30 this year, HCM City’s Windsor Plaza Hotel has a Super Savings package. Stay in an Executive Room and receive a buffet dinner, foot massages, daily breakfast, broadband Internet, meeting room use, late checkout and more for 1,850,000++ VND (about $100) per night (minimum three nights stay). Terms and conditions apply. Call 3833 6688, email services@ windsorplazahotel.com or visit www. windsorplazahotel.com. by former British Open and Masters Champion Nick Faldo. Packages start from USD $89 per person, based on two-person occupancy, and include one night in a golf-view room, a round of golf for each guest and full American buffet breakfast. Call 06 2382 2393 or email info@phanthietresorts.com. Through October 15, Life Resorts is offering a Discover Life package at its 66 asialife HCMC Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organises outdoor activities and tours. Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine. Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden. www.accorhotels.com Situated in the Old Quarter with 102 bright, spacious and modern rooms, Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves Vietnamese and international cuisine. Blue Moon Resort & Spa 4 Phan Boi Chau Tel: 06 3578 888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn An attractive 65-room, country-style resort with extensive gardens for strolling or al fresco dining, as well as restaurant serving local Dalat dishes. On-premise bike rental, fitness centre, sauna and indoor heated pool. Nikko Hotel 84 Tran Nhan Tong Tel: 04 3822 3535 www.hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn Luxury hotel offering spacious rooms, elegant furnishings, international fine dining from Europe, China and Japan. Mercure Dalat 7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777 www.mercure.com Built in 1932 as the Hotel Du Parc, this 144-room pairs French colonial architecture with modern amenities. Cafe De Le Poste serves French home-style, international and Vietnamese cuisine. Facilities include tennis court and sauna Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise. activities Novotel and Ocean Dunes Golf Club Life Resorts tion building. Rooms are simple, with exposed rafters inside and balconies outside. Bungalow accommodation is also available. Wild Beach Resort Running throughout 2010, the Family Getaway package offers two-nights accommodation in a Beach Pool Bungalow (two-bedrooms, two-bathrooms with kitchen and private pool). The total cost is 8,500,000 VND (about $450), inclusive of roundtrip transfer from Nha Trang and Cam Ranh airports, daily breakfast, two set lunches and dinners and a trekking tour to local mountains. For booking or further information, call 5 8362 6945 or email info@wildbeachresort.com. Mangosteen Resort & Spa Through July 31, Golden Tulip Mangosteen Resort & Spa in Phuket is offering special introductory rates from THB 2,200 (or USD $70) per night to Residents of Vietnam. The package is inclusive of free upgrade to next room category, daily breakfast, late check-out until 4pm and 15-percent discount on food and beverage (conditions apply). The package continues through August and September for THB 2,500 ($80). For bookings and more information, contact reservations@goldentulipmangosteen. com or www.goldentulipmangosteen. com. Sheraton Nha Trang From June 1 until August 15, Sheraton Nha Trang’s Summer School Holiday promotion gives guests who book at least two nights a special Deluxe Ocean View room rate of VND 2,010,000 ++ (approximately $110, excluding tax and service charge) per night. The package also includes daily breakfast for two, free breakfast for two children under 12 years old sharing a room with their parents, 15 percent off food and beverage in the hotel’s bars and restaurants and 15 percent off select Shine Spa services. For more information or to make a reservation, visit www.starwoodhotels. com. Phat Tire Ventures 73 Truong Cong Dinh Tel: 63 3829 422 www.phattireventures.com Runs guided trips for hiking/trekking, mountain biking, rock climbing, kayaking and canyoning in the highlands surrounding Dalat. Also operates mixed trip adventure packages and ropes course set among pine forest with 100+ meters Flying Fox zip line. Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days. Trips terminate in Nha Trang, Hoi An, Hanoi, Mui Ne or HCM City. All hotels and entrance fees included. HANOI Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool. Hanoi Hilton Opera 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Housed in a colonial-style building that complements the adjacent Opera House, this luxury hotel features modern amenities, business services, outdoor pool and fitness centre. Vietnamese specialties are served at Ba Mien, and Chez Manon does Japanese and pan-Asian. Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Located in the city centre with 306 comfortable guestrooms elegantly decorated, complete with a host of modern amenities. Dining includes Asian cuisine at El Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar. Mercure Hanoi La Gare 94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 7766 Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panormaic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant. Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house. HO CHI MINH CITY Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Duxton Hotel 63 Nguyen Hue D1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com Located in downtown Saigon. Facilities include spa, beauty salon, Zanadu Health Club, gym, outdoor swimming and main restaurant, The Grill. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view. Legend Hotel 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com Located by the river with fitness centre, outdoor pool, kids play centre, Crystal Jade Chinese restaurant and jazz bar. Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com 251-room Swiss chain hotel with Nishimura Japanese and Lotus Court Chinese restaurant, Sundeck poolside bar, Qi Spa, conference/banquet facilities New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant Park Hyatt 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21 suites, lobby lounge with live music, Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dininig at Square One. asialife HCMC 67 dispatches Travel news from around the region and beyond Travel Deal: Yoga Retreats at Como Bhutan The Deal: Como Hotel and Resort in Bhutan is offering four-day yoga and cultural retreats starting at the end of June and continuing throughout year. The Setting: Como Bhutan is nestled in the Paro Valley, providing panoramic views of the surrounding forests and mountains. The main building, formerly home to a Bhutanese nobleman, provides a peaceful setting for the retreat. Guests also explore nearby monasteries in the surrounding areas while aiming to improve their practice with active Vinyasa and Hatha Yoga, Pranayama breathing and silent meditation. The Verdict: Rates start at $2,552 for a single and $5,025 for a double. The stay includes accommodation for four nights, daily breakfast and lunch, a welcome and farewell dinner, yoga and meditation instruction, cultural excursions in Bhutan and airport transfers. For more information on dates throughout 2010 and yoga retreat options, visit www.uma.paro.como.bz/wellbeing/retreats. Allison Grant Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor. Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of HCMC’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre. Villa Hotel at Thao Dien 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com Colonial-style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining on the banks of the Saigon River in expat enclave. Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Four restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, casino, health club, shopping centre, supermarket, Chinese restaurant. activities Shanghai World Expo 2010 Londoners showed off their new industrial and economic powers at the 1851 World's Fair, and The Space Needle was constructed for Seattle’s fair in 1962. These pasts events, however, seem small in scale compared to The World Expo in Shanghai, China this year. The most expensive expo in history cost the Chinese even more than the 2008 Beijing Olympics. China predicts 70 million people will attend the expo, which runs until October 31. The exhibition's theme, “Better City, Better Life,” focuses on sustainable urban development, and has attracted more than 240 nations and organizations from around the globe. France’s exhibit features the art of huge names like Cezanne, Van Gogh, Gauguin and Rodin, while Japan’s hi-tech architectural creature nicknamed “Purple Silk Worm Island” includes violinist robots. Great Britain’s “Seed Cathedral” is made of 60,000 transparent rods that quiver in the wind and glow in the dark. With numerous parades and interactive performances galore, this lively event of cultural exchange promises something for everyone. For more information, ticket prices and availability visit en.expo2010.cn. Logan Brown 24th Annual Mt. Kinabalu Climbathon Anyone interested in participating in the 24th Annual Mt. Kinabalu Climbathon will need to set their treadmills to maximum. Dubbed “the World’s Toughest Mountain Race,” the Climbathon was founded to recruit rangers for Malaysia’s rapid rescue squad, but has since developed into an intense competition. It's the only race of its kind held outside of Europe. While it takes the average climber two days to finish the 21-kilometre (13-mile) trek, many Climbathon participants make it up and down in less than three hours. Still interested? Registration for the event is now open, with the race for women and veteran men to be held on October 23 and the men’s open race on October 24. Best of all, there are cash prizes for the top 15 finishers. For more information check out climbathon.sabahtourism.com/2010. Allison Grant 68 asialife HCMC Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com 349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/banquet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants. Saigon Scooter Centre 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh District Tel: 4848 7816 www.saigonscootercentre.com One-stop rental service with a wide selection of scooters/motorbikes available for around town travel or long trips Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Headquaters located in Cafe Zoom. Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas. HOI AN & DANANG Cua Dai Hotel 544 Cua Dai Tel: 0510 3862 231 www.cuadaihotel-hoian.com Open and airy rooms are tastefully decorated and overlook the garden and pool. Located roughly between Old Town and Cua Dai Beach. Bicycle rental arranged. Green Field Hotel 423 Cua Dai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 863 484 www.greenfieldhotel.com Mid-range hotel with simple but spacious rooms overlooking the garden and pool. Rates start below US $20 per night. Located 400 metres from the Old Town. all the mod cons. Two restaurants, two bars and an outdoor pool. with a meal from a menu created by Duc himself. Nam Hai Tel: 0510 3940 000 www.ghmhotel.com Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts. Phat Tire Ventures 619 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0510 391 1700 www.phattireventures.com Offers rappelling and rock climbing at Marble Mountains, as well as walking and mountain biking excursions, from two-hour countryside trips to two-day cycling trips to Hue. Also does cultural and historical tours and car trips to My Son Holy Land. Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Set on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small “streets” and ponds. Vinh Hung Hotel 143 Tran Phu Tel: 0510 3910 393 www.vinhhunghotels.com.vn Evocative wood carving, antique furniture and Oriental rugs fill this intimate guesthouse just down the street from the Japanese Bridge. Construction dates back more than a century. activities Le Domaine de Tam Hai Resort Tel: 0510 3545105 www.domainedetamhai.com Occupying an island close to Hoi An, the resort features 12 villas, a private beach, and two restaurants serving French and Vietnamese cuisine. Hoi An Motorbike Adventures Tel: 0918 230 653 www.motorbiketours-hoian.com Two-wheeled tours of the Central Highlands, Ho Chi Minh Trail, Monkey Mountain and more on a fleet of Minsk dirt bikes and fully and semi-automatic motorbikes. Customers can drive or be driven on half- to five-day trips. Life Resort Hoi An 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com Within walking distance of Hoi An. Rooms are chic and minimalist, offering Mango Cruise info@mangorooms.com Chef Duc from the celebrated Mango Rooms restaurant and his wife Ly offer a cruise down the Thu Bon River, complete Vietnam Sailing 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc Tel: 0918 255 521 www.vietnamsailing.com Foreign-operated company operates chartered coach or private tours to Cham Islands aboard a Corsair Sprint 750 Trimaran. One-day cruises or twoday excursions with beach camping by campfire are available. HUE Celadon Palace Hue 105A Hung Vuong Tel: 054 3936 666 www.celadonpalacehue.com Grand building inspired by Indochine Nobel House with panoramic views, international restaurant, lounge/bars, pool, ballroom and wedding planning. Imperial Hue 57 Dang Dung Tel: 054 3522 478 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn Opulent high-rise hotel with panoramic views of the city and Ngu Binh Mountain. Facilities include swimming pool, gym, Royal spa, Prince Club casino and business centre. La Residence 5 Le Loi Tel: 054 3837 475 www.la-residence-hue.com Former governor’s residence on the Summer School Holidays Promotion Enjoy some quality time with your family! Domestic Summer School Holidays rate at VND2,010,000++/room/night that includes: • Daily buffet breakfast up to 2 persons per room • Free breakfast for children below 12 years old sharing room with parents (maximum of 2 children per room) • 15% discount on food & beverage • 15% discount on Shine Spa body treatments * Applicable to Vietnamese nationals and Expats working in Vietnam (proof of residence/ work permit required upon check-in). * Minimum 2 nights stay required. * Valid from 1 Jun 2010 until 15 Aug 2010. For reservations please call 84 58 388 0000 Or email reservations.nhatrang@sheraton.com ©2009 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All rights reserved. Sheraton and its logo are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. asialife HCMC 69 banks of the Perfume River is now home to a boutique resort where art deco meets Indochine. La Parfum restaurant serves local and international dishes. Facilitiesa include spa, saltwater pool, tennis court and fleet of bicycles. Mercure Hue Gerbera 38 Le Loi Tel: 054 3946 688 www.mercure.com Overlooking the Perfume River, this centrally located hotel has 110 contemporary rooms. Local Hue cuisine and international fare served at Le Bordeaux, and drinks served up top at Sky Bar or in the ground-floor Lobby Bar. Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture. Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/lounges. NHA TRANG Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving. Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Novotel Nha Trang 50 Tran Phu Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com Each of the 154 rooms has a terrace with seaviews in this modern hotel located in the city centre. The Square serves international cuisine in a dining room overlooking the bay. Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang Luxury hotel with 284 ocean view rooms, six restaurants and bars, club lounge, infinity edge swimming pool, spa, yoga studio, cooking school, Sheraton Adventure Club and (connected at) Link@ Sheraton. Sunrise Beach Resort 12-14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3820 999 www.sunrisehotelvietnam.com Private beach resort equipped with gym, fitness centre, outdoor pool and water sports. PHAN THIET Full Moon 98A Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 062 3847 008 fullmoon@windsurf-vietnam.com Resort set in a private garden with lovingly decorated bedrooms and terracotta-tiled bathrooms. The grounds include a good Vietnamese restaurant, pool and kite-surfing school. L’Anmien Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward Tel: 062 3741 888 www.lanmienresort.com Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool. Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan 70 asialife HCMC Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex. Romana Resort KM8, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3741 289 www.romanaresort.com.vn 10 beachfront villas and 18 hill villas with private pools and all the mod cons. WindChimes School Saigon Mui Ne Resort, 56 Nguyen Dinh Chieu www.kiteboarding-vietnam.com Surf school situated on 235m of beach offers kiteboarding, windsurfing and surfing classes in multiple languages taught by IKO-certified instructors. Equipment rented and trips organised. Satellite school at Bamboo Village Resort. PHU QUOC The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa. Chenla Resort & Spa Bai Xep, Ong Lang Beach Tel: 077 3995 895 www.chenla-resort.com sales-hcmc@chenla-resort.com Resort on a bay offers 36 luxury bungalows/villas with ocean views, swimming pool, water sports, diving centre, spa and Mediterannean restaurants. Shades Apartment Khu 1, Ham Tien Tel: 062 3743 237 www.shadesmuine.com Design-led boutique hotel that uses minimal materials and draws on natural textures to achieve a sense of timelessness. Serviced apartments are soundproof with blackout curtains. Pool and beachside veranda outside. Freedomland Ong Long Beach Tel: 077 3994 891 freedomlandphuquoc.com Secluded lodging in six different bungalow types built from natural materials sourced from the island. Private or shared bathrooms, no air-conditioning or hot water. Boat trips and scooter tours. Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences amongst other great activities on offer at the resort. La Veranda Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach Tel: 077 3982 888 www.laverandaresort.com Set amid tropical gardens along a beach. Features a highly-rated spa, beach grill, Vietnamese, Asian and European cuisine. C2Sky Kitesurfing Sunny Beach, 64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 0916655241 www.c2skykitecenter.com Operates two schools roughly 500m apart, staffed by IKO-certified instructors. Offers a half dozen course types, as well as instructor training. Equipment rental and repair. Mango Bay Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0903 382 207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com Low-cost seaside resort with ecological outlook promotes nature activities, forest walks, snorkelling, open-air seafood restaurant. No TV or telephone. activities Forester Spa & Mini Golf 65 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 062 3743 447 www.forestrestaurant.com Terraced nine-hole miniature golf course with distinctly Vietnamese terrain: rice paddies, palm trees, stilt homes and a fish pond. Jibes Beach Club 84-90 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 062 3847 008 www.windsurf-vietnam.com IKO-licensed kite-surfing centre offers highly structured kitesurfing classes taught by experienced watersportsmen. Also offer windsurfing lessons and retails in watersports equipment (bodyboards, kayaks, surfboards, windsurfs). Mui Ne Beach.net www.muinebeach.net Informative website run by local writer Adam Bray covering news, events, community/environmental issues and more in Mui Ne and Phan Thiet. Also issues safety advisories regarding crime and tour bus accidents. Mui Ne Cooking School Sunshine Beach Resort, 84 Tuyen Quang Tel: 062 383 0755 Al fresco classes begin with a trip to Rang Market and focus on the provincial cuisine of Binh Thuan, like banh xeo (crepes with beef or seafood) and goi hai san (seafood salad). Surfpoint 217 Nguyen Dinh Chieu www.surfpoint-vietnam.com Offers private and group kiteboarding courses and equipment rental (from $40-50/hr). Also runs group and private surfing lessons, as well as kayaking trips to Song Quao Lake. SAPA Chau Long Hotel 24 Dong Loi Tel: 020 3871 245 www.chaulonghotel.com Mid-range hotel with wraparound construction offering panoramic views. Rooms in newer wing are more attractive, with dark wood furnishings and polished hardwood floors. Topas Eco Lodge 24 Muong Hoa Tel: 020 3871 331 www.topasecolodge.com Overlooking the Hoang Lien Mountains, Topas is comprised of 25 white granite and golden hardwood lodges powered by solar energy. Premises include restaurant in traditional Tay stilt house, and Topas offers a range of outdoor activities, including mountain biking an trekking. Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has stone hearth fireplace. Connection from Hanoi by private train. SCUBA DIVING Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognised by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI). We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam. Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Giai Dang, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid90s. All courses can be started at the state-of-the-art dive centre in An Phu, from beginner pool work and theory to divemaster and instructor certification. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc. Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co., with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services, including children’s Bubblemaker classes, courses in specialised techniques and divemaster certification. TRAVEL AGENTS Budget Car Rentals 198 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 2929 Tan Son Nhat Airport Tel: 3930 2929 International rental agency offers chauffeur-driven cars to destinations throughout Vietnam. Drivers are proficient in English and trained in defensive driving. Airport/resort transfers, daily rentals and corporate fleets available. Buffalo Tours Suite 601, Satra House, 58 Dong Khoi D1 Tel: 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent. Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com SD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761/62 pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specialising in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia. iTravel 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 0836 4876 www.itravel-online.com trung@itravel-online.com Operated out of Le Pub (Hanoi/HCMC) offering a wide range of tour and accomodation options throughout Vietnam, as well as custom-made tours tailored to customer specifications. iViVu www.ivivu.com Offering the traditional services of a travel agent – airline tickets, tours, packages and hotels - as well as tips and up-todate travel news on Vietnam. Terraverde 91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3948 4754/56 info@terraverdetravel.com www.terraverdetravel.com German-owned travel agency specialising in tailor-made tours combining nature experiences; site visits; cultural encounters; biking, boating and trekking expeditions. Mixes cultural experience with light adventure tourism. Trails of Indochina 10/8 Phan Dinh Giot, Tan Binh Tel: 3844 1005 www.trailsofindochina.com Specialists in custom-made tours offering cultural and adventurous experiences throughout the region. Exclusive resources and locations. asialife HCMC 71 Small eatery with a lunch menu of American classics (California burritos, po boy sandwiches, etc.) and a Brit-centric dinner selection of bangers & mash, fish & chips and more. Good veggie burger. Serves Huda Beer from Hue. listings food & drink Bernie's Bar & Grill 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 2684 Serves a solid menu of certified Angus and imported Aussie steaks, fresh pasta, thin crust pizza, sandwiches and mains in an old school steak house setting. Drink menu includes smoothies, cocktails, premium wines and spirits and Saigon's largest martini. BAR RESTAURANTS Alibi 11 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes. Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains. Bread & Butter 40/24 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3836 8452 feast Boston Pizza – Sports Bar 28/2 - 28/4 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 6656 6338/6656 6328 Sports bar featuring North American food. Satellite TV, free pool and darts. Catering services and private room available for parties. Open 24 hours. Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or From June 7 to 20, the Caravelle Hotel’s Restaurant Nineteen has Japanese Highlights for 808,000 VND++ per person. Along with fresh sushi and sashimi, a range of dishes will appear on a rotating basis, including tonkatsu (deep-fried pork cutlets), gyoza (dumplings) and many more. Email fbd@ caravellehotel.vnn.vn. Gia Dining Room Gia Dining Room is serving a threecourse set lunch for $8.50++ per person. A four-course set dinner with poultry specials and wine is $25++ per person. Poultry dishes on offer at the restaurant include shredded chicken meat, sweet corn and quail egg soup; duck breast salad mixed with fresh herbs, onion, cabbage, peanut and sweet and sour fish sauce; roasted quail salad with herbs served with butter sauce; and stewed duck leg with red wine served with pasta. For reservations, call 3825 6257, email dining@giadiningroom.vn or visit www. giadiningroom.vn. Opera at Park Hyatt Saigon is serving up pasta al forno and gelato al forno from June 4 to 13. Six different kinds of pasta are on offer, including baked seafood/shell fish lasagna with fava beans and asparagus. Prices range from 250,000 to 350,000++ VND for pasta and 100,000 to 150,000++ VND for gelato. Call 3520 2357 or email opera.saiph@hyatt.com. 72 asialife HCMC K Cafe 28 Do Quang Dau, D1 Tel: 3913 4673 This down-to-earth bistro-bar is a haven for French-speaking emigrés looking for an alternative in the backpackers’ area. Prop up the bar with a beer or Ricard, or tuck into the tasty Gallic fare. Good atmosphere for conversation. La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.Relaxed environment with frequent live music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily. Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily. Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specialises in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere. O’Brien’s 74/A2 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 3198 A large Celtic-style pub popular with media types that has an interior done in brickwork and wood, and an upstairs dining area. Draught beer is happy hour between 3pm and 7pm. Great pizzas. Peaches: The Curry Pub Sky Garden 2, S57-1, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0999 Serves up dishes from Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, China, Japan, Singapore and Indonesia with a focus on healthy preparation and fresh produce. Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a broaden your palate with promotions around town Restaurant Nineteen Opera out, plus a pool table on premise. Café Central An Dong Café Central An Dong at the Windsor Plaza Hotel is hosting an Italian Cuisine Tour throughout June, with dishes representing various Italian regions, including oven-roasted venison, Roman-style roasted chicken and hat-shaped pasta. Also, book one of the Windsor Plaza Hotel’s conference rooms and enjoy a lunch buffet at Café Central An Dong for 200,000++ VND per person as part of the hotel’s Meet and Eat promotion valid until July 31 this year. Terms and conditions apply. Call 3833 6688 or email services@ windsorplazahotel.com or visit www. windsorplazahotel.com. Caravelle Lobby Lounge including poached wild trout with verdicchio wine sauce and vegetable lasagna with a dash of basil oil for 290,000++ VND. Call 3833 6688 or email services@windsorplazahotel.com or visit www.windsorplazahotel.com. Café Central Café Central adopts a healthy theme this June, serving up dishes including salad with sesame seed crusted and grilled tuna filet, crispy fried wontons and a sweet sesame vinaigrette for 80,000++ VND. Phone 3821 9303 or email ccnh@vtpinvestment.com. Gartenstadt During June, Gartenstadt German Restaurant on Dong Khoi is serving imported veal cordon bleu stuffed with cheese and served with home fries and a mix of vegetables for 220,000++ VND or 280,000++ VND with a bottle of Schneider Weisse imported wheat beer. Phone 3822 3623 or email gartenstadt@vtpinvestment.com. Amigo Grill The hotel’s Lobby Lounge is serving cherries jubilee dessert and champagne for 380,000++ VND from 5 to 10pm from June 14 to 27. Call 3823 4999 or visit www.caravellehotel.com. Top of the Town Top Of The Town Bar and Restaurant is offering specialties from the Italian region of Piedmont during June, The focus is on imported Australian oysters and steaks this month at Amigo Grill. For 350,000++ VND, main courses include stir-fried beef and fresh oysters with garlic served with sun-dried tomatoes and asparagus, or a carpetbagger steak, a meaty 200g cut filled with oysters, grilled and served with black pepper sauce. All mains are accompanied by an antipasto and salad bar. Call 3824 1248 or email amigo@vtpinvestment.com. large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two. Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specialises in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle. The Loft Lucky Plaza, 69 Dong Khoi, D1 thelofthcmc@gmail.com Spacious dining room serving a frequently refreshed set menu all day and a la carte dinner of French/Mediterranean fare. Happy hour on Wednesday features drink specials and tapas. Sheridan’s Irish House 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8am. outdoor terrace and 52 non-alcoholic fruit concotions. Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells fresh-roasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea. Jubarcalypse 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 7930 Jubarcalypse has an interesting underground design. Playing jazz music, it’s the perfect place to re-energize with a refreshing selection of juices and snacks. La Fenetre Soleil 135 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 5209 A Parisian style shabby chic hideaway. It is a perfect spot to chill out over coffee, juice or snacks like muffins and cakes. Storm P Bar & Restaurant 5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 2240 7477 This friendly hangout is a favourite with both the Scandinavian community and English-speaking expats. Offers Danish cuisine to go with the drinks. Loaves and Fishes 5 Street 11, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3547 0577 Coffee house on a side street near Riverside Apartments serves up drinks and serves the full line of Western-style baked goods from Harvest Baking. The Tavern 24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends. Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 A top-end cafe pulling in a mix of tourists and upper-class Saigonese. Boasts an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue. Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza. Nirvana 14Bis Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3910 0745 Pleasant retro-styled cafe with outdoor water features and welcome modern touches like free Wi-Fi. Live music at night. ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot. Open late. CAFES Annam Cafe 16-18 Hai Ba Trung Cosy corner cafe with free Wi-Fi overlooking Hai Ba Trung. Serves a slate of gourmet sandwiches, coffee and wine. Bobby Brewer’s 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4090 70 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3821 8100 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 6299 1990 www.bobbybrewers.com This is an attractive fast-food style coffee shop with friendly staff and good lattes. All the coffee is roasted on the premises and there are comfortable couches and travellers aplenty making it a chilled place to hang out. Bull’s Cafe 113C Bui Vien Street, D1 Tel: 3836 1925 www.bullcafe.com.vn MotoGP-themed lounge serving up coffee, smoothies and cafe house special, fruit cocktail. Cafe Terrace Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 This funky café is frequented by trendy types attracted by the leather lounges, Paris Deli 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6127 Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 412 2179 Petite boulangerie/cafe decked out with French-style furnishings. Offering tasty French and international dishes with a range of lunchtime specials at reasonable prices. X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 212 A2 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 9307 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet. Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream. Nguyen Trai location includes children’s playground. Catering available. Zenta 41 Mac Dinh Chi, D3 A large, extravagant, kitsch cafe with several rooms resembling airport departure lounges. Customers, though, tend to gravitate to the more attractive outdoor terrace with its pond and waterfall-style water features. CHINESE Dragon Court 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 Open until 2am, this vast, no-frills eatery gets packed with hungry locals who savour generous portions of tasty dim sum. All the Chinese staples are here. Expect a good feed for under VND100,000 per person. asialife HCMC 73 imbibe street gourmet 20 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 299 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh Does brisk lunchtime trade with its selection of more than 25 ice cream favours and Vietnamese noodle and rice dishes. Ciao Cafe 40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 With a number of branches downtown (21 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and 26 Tran Cao Van, among others), this popular cafe offers a mixture of food, drinks and books. Boasts about 20 ice cream specials and serves crepes, sodas and shakes. The Dirt on Rhone Valley Reds By Beth Young The Rhone Valley in the South of France has two distinct zones. Only a 48-kilometre gap exists between the northern vineyard, stretching from Vienne to Valence, and its southern counterpart, claiming Montelimar to Avignon. Yet the neighbouring regions produce starkly different wines. What each terroir (a group of vineyards from a specific area with the same terrain and weather conditions) does share though is the tendency to create red vino–especially M. Chapoutier drops that draw their unique flavour from the earth in which the vines are planted. Top winemaker Michel Chapoutier took over the family business in 1977, after it had been operating in the Rhone Valley since 1808. It’s his belief that great wine is made in the vineyard, not in the cellar, and as such, great lengths are taken to promote biodynamics in both the valley’s upper and lower reaches. JB Baudron, sales and operations manager at premium wine stockist The Warehouse, says to do this several factors must be considered. “Everything is organic; no chemicals are used, the yields are much lower and more selective and the lunar cycle is followed,” he says, adding that the focus really is on the “taste of the soil”. As 19th century French author Sidonie-Gabrielle Collette famously extolled, “To taste the earth you must drink wine.”And it’s true. According to Baudron, 74 asialife HCMC northern reds like Crozes Ermitage, Saint Joseph and Cote Rotie take on a heady, full-bodied “minerality.” This stems from the steep, granite cliffs the Shiraz grapes (Sirah in French)—from which the northern reds are brewed— are grown on. Similarly, the north’s southern cousins—delicately fruity Grenache and Shiraz blends like Cotes du Rhone, Gigondas and Chateauneuf du Pape—rely on nature to shape their composition, too, developing a characteristic sweetness thanks to the region’s Mediterranean heat. When asked to pick a favourite, Baudron sits safely on the fence between north and south. “I cannot say...they are different. I love them both.” Of course, he points out that some vino complements certain foods better than others. The spicy yet elegant northern creations suit wild boar and venison, while the feminine concoctions from the valley’s lower section are an ideal match for veal, bird game and chocolate. Serving methods also vary between the varieties. Shiraz needs to be “shaken up” after opening, especially when it’s young. Baudron suggests decanting more than once up to three hours before indulging. Grenache, however must be opened and served straight away, or decanted only once. And as for the Rhone Valley’s whites, according to Baudron, “that’s a story for another day!” Fanny Ice Cream 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 1633 Tranquil open-terraced heaven for ice-cream lovers. Menu contains fresh fruit, ice cream, sherbets and sorbets (coconut, caramel and Bailey’s ice-cream and mango sorbet are standouts). All you can eat first Friday of the month. Banh Tieu The Vietnamese may not have gotten the hang of making American doughnuts just yet, but the local banh tieu will certainly win over the hearts of Western cholesterol bomb lovers. Considered the Vietnamese equivalent of the doughnut, banh tieu is a puffy flat round of deep-fried dough about as wide as a hamburger bun. The pastry has a golden-brown exterior and Dynasty Restaurant New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 Fine Chinese dining in an opulent restaurant reminiscent of the Middle Kingdom’s imperial days. Delicacies clock in at VND500,000, but most dishes fall between VND80,000 to VND180,000 Huy Long Vien 99 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 7799 A magnificent Chinese restaurant with a leafy slate-tiled courtyard, Chinese lanterns and a labyrinth of water works. Lunchtime dim sum is 120,000VND, while the a la carte menu runs higher with Chinese specialties such as Peking duck for 400,000 VND. Kabin Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Elegant dining space with beautiful decor and great views over the river offers extensive lunch and dinner menus featuring authentic gourmet Cantonese and Szechuan dishes and an assortment of dim sum at lunchtime. Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for US$17.00. Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from VND100,000. Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa white sesame seeds flecked on top. A bite into the crispychewy fried treat reveals a hollow centre and a whole lot of greasy, subtly sweet goodness. Street vendors often sell chewy steamed sweet rice cakes (banh bo) alongside banh tieu. For an extraspecial treat, have a vendor cut open a banh tieu and stuff the hollow with banh bo. One banh costs 3,000 VND. duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials. Ocean Palace 2 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3911 8822 Both traditional and trendy Chinese dishes are prepared by chef from Hong Kong and served in an opulent 280-seat dining room in this restaurant opposite the zoo. Intimate private rooms and larger party rooms available for booking. Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere. The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs. Truyen Ky 261B Dao Duy Tu, D10 Small homestyle Chinese restaurant specializing in the salty Hakka cuisine of southeastern China, including tofu and chilis stuffed with fish paste. Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specialising in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items. Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens. DESSERT PARLOURS Bo Gia (The Godfather) 29 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Ministry of Food 30 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3827 7898 Two-floor dessert house specialising in Italian and Japanese treats serving a wide array of ice cream flavours using milk from Japan’s dairy capital. Also serves sandwiches and bento boxes. New Zealand Natural 3rd Floor, Parkson Department Store 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 4th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan 1st Floor, Saigon Superbowl, 843 Truong Son, Tan Binh www.newzealandnatural.com Serves flavours ranging from chocolate ecstasy, fruits of the forest and boysenberry dream by the scoop. Yogen Fruz 118 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 1188 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3500 1852 Panorama Apartments, Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 6394 www.yogenfruz.com Frozen yoghurt parlour is decked in mod-meets-IKEA decor and serves no-fat, and low-fat fro-yo blended with fresh fruits, as well as soft serve and smoothies. District 7 parlour located just past SSIS in Panorama complex. FRENCH Annamite French Restaurant 21 Tu Xuong, Ward 7 D3 Tel: 6277 8332 The new VN restaurant area of D3 opens a classic French dinning option, led by ex Caprice chef. Snug atmosphere with a classic touch . French favourites such as escargot in garlic butter, Pan fried goose froie gras, duck in port wine, poached river sole with saffron sauce and classic flambé crepes. Jardin Delice 4 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4722 Located in a beautiful French villa with a swimming pool and spa open to diners, Jardin Delice specialises in high-end French cuisine. Hip setting provides a mish-mash of colourful glass plates, chairs and massive paintings. La Bordeaux F7-F8, D2 Road, P25, Binh Thanh Tel: 3899 9831 French fine dining in an elegant, intimate loft space with dark wood and linendraped tables. Expect simple, classic dishes prepared to perfection. Rotating seasonal menu. La Brasserie 61 Hung Gia 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 4317 Contemporary French restaurant and wine bar with outdoor seating and wine cellar stocked with more than 650 wines. Features classic French fare like sliced raw beef Carpaccio with Parmesan cheese and grilled beef fillet served with French fries and vegetable gratin. La Camargue 191 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3520 4888 Boasts a reputation for excellence in fine dining for more than 10 years. Modern French and Italian cuisine is served in a colonial-style alfresco dining space. An extensive wine list allows diners to choose the perfect pairing. La Fourchette 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3829 8143 Rustic downtown restaurant, with a good longstanding reputation for serving good traditional French fare at reasonable prices. Open 12am to 2 pm and from 7pm to 10pm. La Nicoise 42 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3822 8613 Small French-style bistro, with pretty mosaic tiled bar and tables. Offers a good range of teas, coffees and espressobased drinks. Lunch menu changes daily, but always encompasses traditional French food. Open until 10pm. Le Jardin 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 8465 This delightful restaurant in a picturesque garden setting is open for lunch and dinner and serves excellent French food at reasonable prices. Main courses cost about VND60,000 and a carafe of house wine costs VND50,000. L’en Tête 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 Tel: 3821 4049 This stylish bistro and gallery serves up a large selection of French fare representing an excellent selection of classic French fish and meat dishes, as well as international cuisine. Live music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays starting at 8 pm. Olivier Restaurant Level 2, Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Imaginative French cuisine cooked up in a blend of classic and contemporary. Executive Chef Martin Becquart prepares a solid but creative selection of French favourites with an extensive range of fish and meat dishes. Sesame 153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 0989 765 472 A self-styled hospitality school for disadvantaged children, Sesame gives practical experience to its students through its operational restaurant. Serving a mixture of French and Vietnamese cuisine. Ty Coz 178/4 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3822 2457 Homely and attractive venue specialises in classic French cuisine. Does excellent three-course business set meals for and sells carefully selected seafood. INDIAN Ashoka 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 Tel: 744 4144 S9-1 lo R13 - KP Hung Vuong 2, D7 Tel: 5410 1989 Ashoka is one of the city’s most popular and enduring Indian restaurants with a reputation for good food and service at a reasonable price. Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from VND40,000 and chicken dishes from asialife HCMC 75 VND64,000. Pick up the latest issue of WORLD WIDE www.asialifehcmc.com Over 1,500 downloads a month HO CHI MINH CITY Al Fresco’s Au Parc Bernie’s Bar & Grill Black Cat Boat House Bobby Brewers Buddha Bar Jaspa’s Juice Kim Hai Le Pub Mekong Merchant Mogambo Mojo café Pacharan Peaches Phattys Refinery Sheridan’s The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf The Deck The Tavern Tourist Information Center ZanZBar 1 HANOI Ipanima La Restaurant Le Pub R&R Tavern NHA TRANG Rainbow Divers Sailing club Zeno Designs PHAN THIET Joe’s The Art Cafe Princess D’Annam 76 asialife HCMC Sailing Club Mumtaz 226 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3837 1767 Reasonably priced north and south Indian fare in a clean, light and spacious setting. Vegetarian curries go for around VND30,000 while meat dishes cost between VND45,000 and VND55,000 each. Excellent kebabs. Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu. Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available. Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organise catering for events. INTERNATIONAL Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu. Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 0437 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating. Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11am to 11pm. Au Lac Do Brazil 238 Pasteur, D3 Tel: 3820 7157 36/19-21 Pham Van Nghi-Bac, D7 Tel: 5410 5566 A Brazilian barbecue restaurant that takes meat seriously. The mixed grills and rodizio are fantastic and served in generous portions. No meat-eater should miss the churrasco: 12 cuts of meat carved at your table, plus unlimited salad. Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats. Specialises in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer. Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 628 An Binh, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3898 9837 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 2241 9100 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. The District 2 location also features a slate of sushi and Mexican food, and the District 7 outpost has a full barbecue menu. BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips. BoatHouse Cafe 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9182 BoatHouse’s sister eatery for take-away and delivery service. Offers coffee, breakfast sandwiches, juices, smoothies, pre-packaged salads, sandwiches, burgers and fish and chips. Byblos Restaurant & Shisha Lounge 11 Ngo Duc Khe, D1 Tel: 3825 7781 www.byblos.com.vn Downtown restaurant serves a menu of Lebanese starters, salads and mains served in a casual dining room. Catering available. Events and weekly belly dance show hosted. Cafe Evita 230 Nguyen Van Huong, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3512 3888 Academic-themed menu at this outlet near the British International School includes meals like The Principal, a tripledecker club with fries and salad and burgers that range from First to Fourth Grade. Also has a wood-fired pizza oven. Cepage Lancaster Building 22 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8321 One of the city’s premier venues, Cepage delivers an up-market bar, wine lounge and restaurant in one sleek package. Sells several wines by the glass with several hundred bottles to choose from. Mixes some of the city’s best cocktails. The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw. Dragon’s Nest 186 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 6271 2072/3 Exquisitely designed restaurant tucked into luxurious spa complex with indoor and outdoor seating. Serves an array of fine contemporary German, European and Vietnamese mains. Also serves and delivers pizza. The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30am to 11pm. Breakfast served all day. Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer. Gia Dining Room 5A Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3827 9399 www.giadiningroom.com Serves a mid-range slate of mainly grilled Western mains, single-entree Asian dishes and wide range of soups, salads, appetisers. Three intimate dining spaces pair modern design with Indochina-era sophistication. Extensive list of Old and New World wines. Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels. Hard Rock Cafe InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Popular theme restaurant/live music venue serves large portions of pub fare including salads, fajitas and burgers. Rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia adorns the walls in classic Hard Rock-style and the rock shop sells themed shot glasses, t-shirts and jewellery. Hideaway Cafe 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4222 www.hideawaycafe-saigon.com Stylishly decorated and relaxing restaurant and cafe serving an eclectic range of tasty European-style food. Dine al fresco in the charming courtyard. Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specialises in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event. Juice 49 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3829 6900 Bright and stylish deli-style restaurant serving salads, sandwiches, quiches and meat pies with French fries and potato salad. Also has daily lunch and dinner menu. Excellent smoothies and juices, as well as novelty drinks like wheatgrass shooter and Cannonball cocktail. Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes. Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc. Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy. New York Dessert Cafe (nydc) Restaurant and Cafe NOWZONE 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 3833 6933 Metropolitan 235 Dong Khoi, D1, Tel: 3822 7955 Parkson Flemington 184 Le Dai Hanh, D11, Tel: 08 39651427 Vincom Tower 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1, Unit B3-01 The Crescent Phu My Hung, 107 Ton Dat Tien D7, Unit CR2-05 New York themed menu offering a wide selection of Western dishes and desserts, including a variety of cheesecakes. Halel@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 New-York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays. Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene. Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5pm to 7pm and all day Wednesday. The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets. Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available. Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine. Sandals 93 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Casual dining in evocative 3-floor space with blonde wood accents and cosy seating throughout. Kitchen turns out elegant and inspired fare at surprising value for money: meal-sized salads; filling burgers, wraps and sandwiches. Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available. Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas. Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specialising in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare. asialife HCMC 77 OPEN 24/7 Where the game’s always on! 28/4 Bui Vien Str. Pham Ngu Lao Ward, Dist 1. Phone: (08) 665 663 38 - (08) 665 663 28 Texas BarBQ 15/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The flavour and feel of the Wild Wild West is evoked by both the food and décor at this perennially popular eatery. Quarter rack ribs are a mainstay. . VillaFB 79 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 www.villafb.com Refurbished villa with a spacious designled indoor dining room and an elegant enclosed courtyard. Serves bun noodle dishes for breakfast and lunch before switching to a menu of Eastern and Western fine dining for dinner. Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal. Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine. Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country. Specialises in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines. Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare. Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes. Pendalasco 87 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 8181 One of the city’s oldest Western restaurants, Pendalaso serves a wide range if Italian favourites, as well as remarkably authentic crispy, thin-crust pizza. Pepperoni’s 111 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4989 Attractive pizza and pasta restaurant from the same chain as Al Fresco’s. Good cheap buffet lunches on weekdays and all-round large and tasty portions. ITALIAN Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specialising in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines. Centro Caffe & Ristorante 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 31 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 This is home of Illy coffee in Vietnam. Offers modern and traditional Italian cuisines in three central locations with lunchtime set menus and regular wine tasting evenings. Good spot for business coffee meetings. Da Vinci’s Pizza 001B Hoang Dieu, H1, D4 Tel: 3943 4982 Wide variety of brick oven pizza, calzones, spaghetti, subs and sandwiches. Pizzas come in medium and large sizes and pay homage to Italy with names like Verrochio, Pompeii and Assisi. Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Sarpino’s 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7788 Tasty American-style pan pizza in a pleasant and fresh Italian-themed environment. Four sizes available, from personal to extra large, with a large range of toppings. Also serves pasta, soups, wings and salads. Scoozi 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5795 Italian pizza restaurant affiliated with Centro Caffe serving tasty gourmet pizzas prepared in a wood-fired oven. The delicious creations restore one’s faith in HCM City’s ability to turn out a quality pie. JAPANESE Dragon Hot Pot 122-124 Ho Tung Mao, D1 Tel: 3915 1001 info@dragonhotpot.vn Japanese hot pot restaurant serving motsu nabe, Japanese barbeque and lots of sake and shoju. K Cafe 74 A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 5355 Small, cosy and cheery, this café is noteworthy for its cracking hand rolls. Salmon skin rolls are also a treat. The assorted Banh Cuon A northern Vietnamese dish, banh cuon is comprised of delicate rolls of steamed rice sheets filled with ground pork, minced wood ear mushrooms and bean thread noodles. The rolls are sprinkled with crispy, caramelized shallots (hanh phi) and served with bean sprouts, lime wedges, a medley of herbs, slices of silky pork sausage (cha lua/gio lua) sushi and sashimi, tasty and beautifully presented, costs around US$8. Leave some room for homemade yoghurt. Kuru Kuru Sushi 129 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3824 3566 Sushi restaurant with colour-coded menu items served from a rotating conveyor belt. Helpful place mats in both English and Vietnamese break down prices and explain how to choose your food. Very affordable prices. Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available. Set lunches cost about US$15. Okinawa Yamaneko 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko-vn.com Part restaurant, part Japanese pub serving up a variety of Okinawa favourites like sashimi with sea grapes, namakari and goya champuru plus sushi and soba. LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn 78 asialife HCMC street gourmet La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specialising in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from VND130,000 with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza. and “dipping” fish sauce (nuoc cham), which diners pour over their banh cuon. A light meal, banh cuon is typically eaten for breakfast or a midday snack. One serving costs 5,000 VND. Order up some fried shrimp cakes (banh tom, 5,000 VND each) to kick things up a notch. If you forget to bring gum, chew on a few mint leaves to freshen up afterwards. 11.30pm, delivery available on request. Popular with expats and locals alike. Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes. The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout. KOREAN 25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant. Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well super spicy duruchigi. Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hotpot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables. Sakae Sushi Nowzone @ Royal Centre, Level 4 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 3504 0054 Healthful, affordable and quick service kaiten (conveyor belt) sushi makes for a fun dining experience. Extensive menu also includes beef, chicken and vegetarian options. Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes. The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1, Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties. asialife HCMC 79 SOUTHEAST ASIAN Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand. Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street. Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel. The Red Dot 21 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 5123 Aptly titled, this Singaporean restaurant serves decent chicken rice, char kway teow, chili crab, and a handful of Malaysian specialties. Sawasdee Saigon 102 - 104 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3925 7777 Authentic Thai cuisine in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Satay House 35 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 1727 Bright and rustic, this Malaysian-run place specialises in Halal food. Chicken and asam fish curries are must-tries. Its famous satays are equally delicious. Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.com.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold. VEGETARIAN An Lac Chay 175/4 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 3837 0760 Apropos of the backpacker district, this little restaurant offers no frills and a vast menu. Though meat dishes are available, it specialises in vegetarian Vietnamese and quirky “backpacker favourites.” Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets. Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices. Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/ beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu. Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu. Hoa Tuc 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676 This comfortable high-end restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese fare with a contemporary, classy twist. Expect to find your local favourites as you’ve never experienced them before. Beautifully plated, this is Vietnamese cuisine at its best. Hoi An 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 7694 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, a bamboo-clad walled courtyard and a menu spanning the three main regions of Vietnam. Specialities include abalone soup and a raw fish salad. Four VIP rooms. Mandarine Restaurant 11A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3822 9783 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, an antique wooden stair and a menu spanning all regions of Vietnam. Traditional music performances are available for dinner. Nam Kha 46-48-50 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3823 8309 A swish restaurant from the Khai Silk family with aquatic décor, massive vases and a large staff eager to cater to your every whim. Set and a la carte menus available. Upstairs is the upmarket Dragon lounge bar. Nghi Xuan 5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3823 0699 Located down an alley just past Hai Ba Trung, featuring an attractive open firstfloor and upstairs dining rooms with dark wood furniture and carved woodwork. Serving Hue staples, crab and prawn spreads and an impressive array of wines and cocktails. Quan An Ngon 160 Pasteur, D1 The long lunchtime queues tell the story: good food at low prices. More a food court than a restaurant, this has become a major favourite for its airy decor combined with cheap and tasty noodle, rice and other standard dishes. Tib Chay 11 Tran Nhat Duat, D1 Tel: 3843 6460 Intimate spot with a big menu of Vietnamese vegetarian appetisers, salads, soups, rice/noodle mains and desserts Quan Nuong 29 Ton That Thiep, D1 A favourite with both locals and expats, this rooftop restaurant above the Temple Club offers an extensive menu of meat, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Try the beef wrapped around tasty melting cheese or deliciously fresh skewered prawns. Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specialises in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda. Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go from around VND80,000 to VND150,000. VIETNAMESE Tib 187 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 7242 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 6868 www.tibrestaurant.com.vn Popular up-market dining spot serving Hue cuisine in an attactive dining room Cha Ca La Vong 3 Ho Xuan Hung, D3 Tel: 3930 5674 This HCM City oupost of the legendary Hanoi original serves only one dish: the eponymous and delicious cha ca 80 asialife HCMC la vong, fish pan-fried at the table with turmeric and dill and served with cold noodles and peanuts. asialife HCMC 81 RESTAURANT - LOUNGE - FASHION that draws on traditional architecture. Call for reservations. Tib Express 162 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3822 5038 Serves a large selection of Tib’s Huefood menu in a more casual dining rooom and at significantly lower prices. Specialises in bun bo Hue. Wrap & Roll 62 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 4030 SA1–1, My Khanh 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Attractive downtown venue that brings street-style food into air-conditioned and uncluttered comfort. Choose prewrapped appetisers such as the cha gio (spring rolls) or roll-it-yourself mains with ingredients like pickled shrimps, beef on sugar cane, fish, grilled eel and pork. nightlife BARS & LOUNGES See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes Acoustic Bar 6E1 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 Tel: 3930 2239 A Volkswagen Bug tries to scale the wall outside this well-priced music venue popular with college-age Vietnamese and the occasional expat. Amber Room 59 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 6291 3686 info@theamberoom.com A true London meets New York lounge, with chilled out tunes during the day and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for drinks and a bite to eat. Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits. Ciao Lounge 2nd Floor, 74-76 Nguyen Hue, D1 Trendy and attractive lounge bar with a mixture of retro and modern decor and a pleasant atmosphere to boot. A great escape from central Saigon but quite touristy. Q Bar Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, D1 With low ceilings, intimate cubbyholes, colonial arches, gold paint, ultraviolet lighting and clubhouse beats, this is a bar that has a reputation for being a place to be seen. Great outdoor terrace and late-night indoor opening. Cranberry Café & Pub 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3914 0991 Upmarket,quiet lounge great for private parties. Brickwork and cranberry-red chairs speak to the bar’s name, with a cocktail range and Tigers in blissfully frosted mugs. Level 23 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 One of the best views of the city from this upmarket terrace bar and lounge. Excellent cocktails don’t come cheap but the atmosphere is great with live music throughout the week and a live DJ every Monday. Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30pm until late. The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalised service. Samsara Club 131 Dong Khoi, D1 A laid-back cosmopolitan drinking and dance venue with comfy lounge chairs around low-lying tables and an island bar bedecked in extravagant white-feather decorations. Pink neon gives the joint a contemporary edge. M52 Bar 52 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 6726 Sparsely-appointed venue with reasonably priced drinks noted for packing a punch. Owners Annie and Ms. Van are never too busy to check on their patrons, and the busy bartenders are quick with a smile. Number Five Bar 44 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 6300 Number Five Bar is older than it looks, having formerly been located at 5 Ly Tu Trong. The bar attracts a regular clientele of established expats. Park Lounge Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs played every night by international musicians. The salubrious surroundings are matched by the range of the drinks, with vintage wines from US$6 to US$10 per glass. Tiger is US$4.50 a bottle. To find us, walk through the arch at 74 Hai Ba Trung and discover our beautiful secluded courtyard. Telephone 3823 0509 Open 7 Days QD Bar & Lounge 138 Ton That Dam, D1, Tel: 3821 5338 Sophisticated lounge with New and Old World wines served by the bottle or glass, modern decor and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Ton That Thiep. Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and The Hi-Fi Lucky Plaza, 69 Dong Khoi, D1 hifisaigon@gmail.com Dedicated live-music venue with full bar located in the heart of Saigon. Regularly hosts both local and international artists. T&R Tavern 57 Do Quang Dau, D1 Classic ex-pat dive bar with pool table, darts and comfortable yet simple decor. Daily happy hour and sportsfans can catch games on the big screen. Vibe Billiards & Lounge 102 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3925 2599 Sleek bi-level lounge with Scandinavian design, Bansky-esque murals and top-notch billiards and snooker tables, paid for by the hour. Hosts league play, half-price Mondays, ladies’ nights and DJ events. Voodoo Lounge 92 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Voodoo paintings adorn the white walls at this small, attractive bar south of Sunwah Tower. A daily happy hour, plenty of stool space and a pair of dartboards make it a good place to grab a drink. Fashionable, sophisticated and a wonderfully unique concept, Villa FB merges fashion and food, providing a space where artistic talent and sensitive palates can be enjoyed in harmony. Yoko 22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, D3 Tel: 3825 1901 79 SUONG NGUYET ANH ST., DIST. 1, HCMC T: +84 8 6290 6571 - F: +84 8 6290 6572 INFO@VILLAFB.COM WWW. VILLAFB.COM asialife HCMC 83 ✂ 82 asialife HCMC Present this to your server and receive discount 10% a Compact and popular joint with nightly live music boasts a refreshingly eclectic range of Western styles, with most songs sung in English. BREWHOUSES Alderbrau 98 Nguyen Du, D1 Small brewhouse decorated with antique brewing miscellanea, with an enclosed garden for outdoor swilling the small range of house brews and bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese dishes. Gammer Czech Beer 107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619 www.biatuoitiepvn.com Attractive, multi-story Czech beer hall furnished with heavy wood and outfitted with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to sports. Dark and blonde beers are available, as well as a full menu of Vietnamese food from mussels to rabbit. 2010 FIFA WORLD CUP South Africa 11th june - 11th July Every game at 6:30 and 9:00 pm live at Dragons Nest the first 30min of every game free flow of beer! DRAGON’S NEST an Huon nV g uye Ng Thao Dien Village Dragon’s Nest British Int. School British Int. School R E S TA U R A N T & S PA REsERvatioNs aRE REcommENDED Sai Gon bridge Ha Noi highway Dragon‘s Nest Restaurant, spa & Events 186 Nguyen van Huong, thao Dien Ward District 2, Hcmc Phone: +84 8 6271 2072 Email: info@dragonsnest.com.vn 84 asialife HCMC Hoa Vien 28bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn Expansive beer hall serves up pilsner beer crafted from malt, hops and yeast from the Czech Republic. There’s also a large food menu and imported Pilsner Urquell. Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer. NIGHTCLUBS bounce Parkson Plaza 35bis-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 High-end hip-hop venue with bottle service, the club regularly brings in big name DJs, including Ministry of Sound. Cage 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tucked away on a small road just off of Ton Duc Thang, this popular club is beautifully decorated with purple drapery and the odd cage, this bar offers a good mix of lounging and dancing. Often has live music and DJ’s. Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices. Velvet Bar 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 Hip-hop and Viet trance club with both bottle service and bottle beer that isn’t prohibitively expensive. Circular center bar is ringed with tables, and VIP areas and sofa seating line the walls. at home BAKERIES Crumbs 54 Truong Dinh, D1 Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn info@crumbs.com.vn Eat-in bakery offering a wide range of muffins, whole-grain breads and pastries. Many of the breads are dairy-free, baked fresh daily with unbleached white flower, no added sugar. Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more. Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended. Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 188 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30am. Schneider’s Finest 27 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 1998 www.schneiders-finest.com Traditional German bakery bakes 45 different kinds of breads, rolls and baguettes and a wide range of danishes, pastries and cakes. Catering available. Sesame Bakery 153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3518 0897 Located in the premise of the Hospitality School of HCMC, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students. Wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies at very competitive prices. Special order & delivery available. Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs. Une Journee A Paris 234 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3827 7723 French bakery offering a variety of cakes, croissants and breads. Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets. CATERING Au Parc Catering Services 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Catering services available every day of the year for birthday cakes, dinner parties, wine tastings and corporate events. For a custom-made quotation e-mail auparc@hcm.vnn.vn or call Quynh on 0908 196261. Saigon Catering 84 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 8388 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s, daily deliveries and cocktail parties. For a custom-made quotation e-mail SaigonGG@gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128. The Caterers 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3816 2901 sales@thecaterersvietnam.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Newly established catering company offering extensive services from location sourcing, décor designing and food catering. All functions can be catered for, from low-key barbeques at home to full-blown weddings and parties. Xu Catering 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com From the brains behind Xu Restaurant and Lounge comes this new catering service, promising the highest standards in service. Everything from the menu to asialife HCMC 85 the comprehensive bar service and the staff is tailor-made to your specifications. COOKERY CLASSES Caravelle Hotel Cooking Classes Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Full-day Vietnamese cooking classes for groups of up to 20 people. The classes include a visit to the market with the sous chef. Costs US$45++ each for a minimum 10 people. Saigon Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc The Courtyard, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 8485 i.briosca@saigoncookingclass.com contact@saigoncookingclass.com Cooking classes available from Tuesday to Sunday 10am-1pm/2pm-5pm. Students make an entire meal that includes traditional dishes like pho and cha gio, as well as more creative fare. Conducted by Vietnamese chef in English, Japanese or French on request. Cost is $45. Market visit with the chef on request. Vietnam Cookery Centre 362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 3512 1491 Well-known Vietnamese cooking classes with half-day and more in-depth eight-day courses. Students work in a comfortable kitchen area with their own stove and workspace. Eight-day course costs US$160. GROCERIES Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products. Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor. Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches. Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 A fine deli counter displaying a wide selection of cheeses, roasted vegetables, dips and some tempting sweets. The shelves along the side wall also showcase a solid selection of dried goods and some imported condiments. Classic Fine Foods 100 Xuan Thuy, D2, Tel: 3744 2717 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients. Future Sense 284/9 Nguyen Trong Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 6099 Ice cream home delivery service featuring banana-on a stick, Ola premium ice cream and frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice cream, all produced with European technology and imported ingredients. Grand-Place Chocolate 1A Me Linh Square, Room C4, D1 Tel: 3823 4068 www.grandplacechocolate.com delivery@grandplacechocolate.com Belgian chocolate manufacturer offering high quality chocolate for professionals and chocolate lovers. Chocolate available in 1 kg blocks or 2.5 kg buttons. Free delivery. Kim Hai Butchery 41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices. 86 asialife HCMC Le Cochon D’Or 32 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3829 3856 French-style charcuterie selling quality cold cuts, smoked sausage and a range of cheeses at very reasonable prices. Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegatables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything. Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 arlene@organikvn.com www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported all-natural products such as cereal, soymilk and tea. Operates a retail shop in An Phu. Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines. Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walkin fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available. LIQUOR & WINE Bacchus Corner 158D Pasteur, D1 Reliable wine and liquor store owned by Tan Khoa Wines with a good range of spirits, whiskies, wines and more all at decent prices. English-speaking staff can help with selections. Connoisseur 7 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 224 6324 A decent range of wines from both old and new world vineyards lines the walls in this intimate store. Monthly offers on new arrivals are often a good deal. The staff are helpful, but little English. Red Apron 22 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3823 0021 Large wine and spirits wholesaler, with 90,000 bottles stored in its five locations around the country. Sells wine from all around the world, particularly France, Chile, Italy and Australia. Exclusive distributor of such fine brands as Taittinger Champagne. Tapas Wine 2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 2201 0909 www.tapaswines.com Home delivery service that specialises in Spanish wines. Check out the website for a full catalog of their wines, as well as reviews by brand. The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 924 Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 6261 1525 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories. Provides advice and delivery service. listings culture CLASSES AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis. Creative Writing Classes Tel: 090 448 2957 kate_orson@hotmail.com Writer Kate Orson teaches creative writing courses for fiction, non-fiction and travel writing. Beginners and experienced writers are welcome. Helene Kling Painting 513 An Binh, Street 12, D2 helene_kling@yahoo.com French painter Helene holds classes in oil painting at her beautiful river-side home on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday’s between 8am and 1pm for adults and Monday and Friday afternoons between 3pm and 6pm for children. Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques. CINEMAS Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule. Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions. Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens international and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted. Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles). IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals. Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas. me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group. Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles. GALLERIES a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organising projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10am to 6pm. Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists. Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary. Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organises regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese. Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples. San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public. TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show. asialife HCMC 87 listings sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls. Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass. CRICKET Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons. Australian Cricket Club Mr. Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn DANCING DanCenter 46/2 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Modern, centrally located studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes for kids age 5+ in jazz, ballet, hip hop and tap dance. Classes for adults in yoga, jazz, hip hop, salsa, belly, tap and capoeira. Salsa Dancing at La Fenetre Soleil 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 0909 365 525 Every Thursday from 8pm with Urko and Fred, with a total beginners workshop starting at 8:30pm (minimum 10 people required; 50,000 VND with a cocktail). Followed by social dancing until midnight. Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7:30pm; intermediate L.A style at 8:30pm). Registration required. Swing Dancing at La Fenetre Soleil 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.saigonswing.com 88 asialife HCMC Free swing dance nights held every Wednesday from 8pm to 9pm, followed by a DJ so you can practice your new moves. Regular classes are held every six weeks in East Coast Swing and Lindy Hop. FITNESS & YOGA AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga. California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more. Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights. The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down. Christophe Guillemin Tel: 0909 365525 azia_shop@yahoo.fr www.azia-shop.com French fitness instructor offers his training assistance both at home or in your gym to help with everything from weight loss to muscle building. Also does cardio training sessions at An Phu swimming pool on Saturday at 11am. Curves 15 Trinh Van Can, D1 Tel: 3821 0319 www.curvesvietnam.com Curves is a women’s only fitness franchise with over 10,000 locations and four million members. The centre offers a famous 30-minute total body workout that they say will burn up to 500 calories. Features training on ‘double positive’ resistance equipment. Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The city’s largest department store has a well-equipped gym with steam room, jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool. The gym costs from US$90 per month. Diamond Way Buddhism Meditation Group Tel: 093 804 3753 Email: SaigonGompa@gmail.com www.diamondway-teachings.org Meditation group using methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Diamond Way or Vajrayana Buddhism guides practitioners to experience the nature of their own mind to reach Enlightenment. ments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered. Erick Tony Varin, Fitness and Swimming Instructor Tel: 0939 026 540 Erickforcearca@hotmail.com French instructor offers individual adapted programmes at home or at your gym, including weight loss, muscle gain, athletic training and post-traumatic treatment. Swimming and aqua aerobics classes for groups or individuals are also offered. steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre. Three-month peak membership costs US$810++ and off-peak is US$450++. Patricia Romero, ERYT200 Phu My Hung, An Phu Tel: 090 387 2832 saigonease@yahoo.com Alignment-based yoga classes that infuse elements from the Ashtanga and Iyengar traditions. Group and private classes. Also specialising in therapeutics and restorative yoga. Patricia has been teaching yoga in Saigon since 2002. John Huy Tran, Fitness Instructor Tel: 0983 789 318 jht_fitness@hotmail.com Canadian fitness professional certified trainer with over 10 years’ experience in the fitness industry, dance and sports. Can provide training tailored to individual needs. Renaissance Hotel Health Club 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city. Costs US$140 a month, or US$10 a day. K1 Fitness and Fight Factory 346 Ben Van Don, D4 Tel: 0918 337 111 www.teamminetti.com Fitness centre teaching English and Thai boxing, karate, Vietnamese martial arts, judo, fencing, grappling, and mixed martial arts with classes for both adults and children. All training conducted by a professional foreign instructor. Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms. L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room. La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance. Legend Hotel Fitness Centre 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 One of the best hotel fitness centres. Very well-equipped gym with cardiovascular and weight machines, along with a circular swimming pool and massage parlour. A three-month membership costs US$400++. Michelle Lloyd Yoga Tel: 090 964 8193 michelleglloyd@gmail.com www.michellelloyd.com Certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programmes available. Contact Michelle for information on her current schedule and special events. Nutrifort 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3825 8560 news@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.com Comprehensive health and fitness centre offering customized exercise, nutritional counseling to members. Specializing in weight loss programs, core/body alignment training with Pilates equipment. Healthy snacks available. Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps. NTFQ2 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 ntfq2@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.com First boutique, purpose-built fitness and wellness centre in Vietnam. Offers personal training, small group classes, specialised treatment and healthy dining at on-site restaurant Good Eats. Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environ- Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, Saigon Yoga Somerset Apartments 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1 Tel: 090 835 2265 www.saigonyoga.com info@saigonyoga.com Yoga and pre-natal yoga classes held downtown and in D3. Taught by experienced, certified instructrs from the US. Class size limited to 12 students. Reservation is requested to ensure a space. Private group and pre-natal classes of up to 8 by appointment. Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Star Fitness Gym Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 This 1,600sq.m gym is apparently the biggest in Vietnam. Has a good range of machines for any type of workout. Membership involves one time entry fee plus monthly subscriptions and gives free access to regular fitness classes. Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment. Membership costs US$700++ for six months and US$1,300++ for a year. Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga. Yoga & Meditation Centre 335 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Tel: 3929 1706 www.ymc.org Profesional team of Western and local teachers show you how to practice a combination of yoga and meditation with a range of classes such as Hatha, Yin, Vikram, Ashtanga yoga and Pilates. Yoga Living 95 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 098 880 4598 info@yogaliving.com.vn www.yogaliving.com.vn Yoga studio offering hatha, vinyasa, power and ashtanga yoga. Schedule can be self-made by members. FOOTBALL & RUGBY Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome. Les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get together and enjoy the sport while making new friends. Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139. RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie. Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments. Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4pm until 6pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome. Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join. GOLF sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from US$700 for 6 months. Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around US$16 before 5pm and US$19 after. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available. Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium. Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area. LEISURE Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer. Phun Runners www.phun-run.com info@phun-run.com Running group that meets Sundays at 7am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points. Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores. Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 09 1373 3360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays. Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees. Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels. Senior Expat ChitChat Weekly “Coffee Talk” meetings among seniors at the Palace Hotel Café (56 – 66 Nguyen Hue, D1) each Tuesday from 10 to 11:30am. The informal group is for local expatriates and English-speaking foreign travellers who meet to share experiences and make new friends. Call club organizer Sheldon Pruss at 093 203 1837. Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Membership starts at US$2,000 a year. Vietnam Hobby Brewers hobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.com www.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl Small group of beer enthusiasts gather bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk beer, share brewing tips and sample homemade suds. The group is keen on taking on new members with an interest in learning how to brew. Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments. Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building. Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids. asialife HCMC 89 listings health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by american-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese ad Korean. Treat back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specialising in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics. Ciro Gargiulo CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn A holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia. Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons at US$30 per day. Osteopathic Medicine/Physiotherapy – David Truong Tan Tel: 0903 09 81 24 www.osteopathy-vietnam.com French-trained osteopath and physiotherapist specializing in the treatment of back pain and muscular, ligament and joint problems using a holistic approach and gentle manipulative techniques. Consultations available at International SOS in District 3 and Nutrifort in Districts 1 and 2. Traditional Medicine Hospital 197 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Friendly staff speak little to no English at this well-known and spotlessly clean hospital offering treatments that combine traditional Chinese medicine with modern knowledge and expertise. COSMETIC TREATMENT Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specialises in LASIK correctional procedures, costing from US$700 to US$1,100 for both eyes. English spoken. Open seven days a week. FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com International-standard cosmetic procedures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment. Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction. DENTAL European Dental Clinic 127 Dien Bien Phu, Dakao, D1 Tel: 3823 8680 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24-hour emergency line: 0909 551916 or 0918 749204. Koseikai Dental Clinic 3rd floor, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3910 6255 info@koseikai.com.vn www.koseikaidentist.com A member of Dental Clinic Vietnam, provide full range of dental services with the latest in technology, delivery of laboratory work and new technologies now available. Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & Associates 3 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doc.linh@gmail.com With 10 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization. Westcoast International Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 Tel: 3825 6999 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 6777 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Canadian-run dental clinic staffed by French, Japanese, English and Vietnamese speaking dental professionals. See Medical listings for hospitals with dental services HAIR & SALON Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and profess ional salon is host to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products. Shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at US $26; mini facials from $12. Jasmine 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737 jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn Friendly and efficient staff offers haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments. Skin renewal facial, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massage costs US$98 Le Brian Salon 201 Calmette, D1 195 Nguyen Van Hoang, D2 Vietnamese-American hairstylist with dual locations, offering a full range of hair services, as well as professional make-up application. Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio Dragon’s Nest, 186 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 6273 2078 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon. Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments all go for upwards. Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine. Souche 2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products. Specialises in personalised facial care treatments from US$30 and medicated acne treatments from US$40. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service. Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, D1 Tel: 3823 8888 Respected multi-specialty clinic with foreign and local physicians. Doctors on call 24 hours a day. Standard checkups cost between VND400,000 and VND800,000. Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5416 0378 Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Singapore-based hair salon has a variety of hair services including scalp treatments, rebonding and hair extensions. The Salon 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394 Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations. A haircut starts at US $28 for women and US $22 for men. Venus 41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3829 6298 French Vietnamese stylist Sandrine Nguyen trained with worldwide academics Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon. With more than eight years experience, she offers haircuts for men from US$10 and US$20 for women. Special services are colouring and highlights. YKC Beauty & Hair Studio 219 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Tel: 3829 2791/3827 5194 www.ykcspa.com Popular amongst the expat community, the salon is run by Toronto trained mother and son duo of Cindy (owner) and Ky The Guy (hair stylist). Offers a full range of spa and hair services and has a second hair salon located in the Park Hyatt Hotel. YKC Esthetics & Hair Spa 219 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Tel: 3829 2791 An excellent salon with a following of expat regulars. A Toronto-trained motherand-son team manage YKC’s staff and offer the full range of services from facials, body therapy, waxing, nails to cut, color and highlights. MEDICAL Australian Clinic & Pathology Diagnostics (ACPD) 273-275 Ly Thai To, D10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services include general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa healthchecks, X-ray, full laboratory and in-house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, paediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and dermatology. CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses. 90 asialife HCMC Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby. Also in Hanoi and Danang. FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com A foreign-owned international-standard hospital with a mixture of French and Vietnamese physicians. Offers quality services, comprehensive patient care and is particularly well regarded for its maternity care. Full array of dental services from examination, cleaning and whitening to fillings, cosmetic procedures and implants. 24-hour emergency line: 3411 3500. International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff. Victoria Healthcare International Clinic 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 3910 4545 www.victoriavn.com Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations, and specialising in women’s health, paediatrics, digestive diseases and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme. Open seven days a week. Doctors on call 24 hours. NAILS Nghia Beauty 20 Phan Boi Chau, D1 Tel: 3829 2688 Located next to the Ben Thanh Market, clean efficient and friendly staff service your hands and feet with a range of treatments while you relax in a comfortable atmosphere. Nail P.KH 51 Nguyen Huu Cau, D1 A well-known local place with a number of manicure stations and an extensive range of services. A mani-pedi with polish starts at VND40,000. OPI 253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 International brand of nail care offering a variety of treatments from standard manicures at VND50,000 to the whole host nail services such as acrylics, powder gell, cuticle treatments and French polishing. Quang Qui’s Nails 146 Le Thanh Ton, D1 242 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Locally popular spots with low prices and good service, offering anything you could asialife HCMC 91 possibly want for your nails. SKINCARE AZIAL and rendez-vous Eden Mall, 106 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 3579 www.azial.com www.naturalrdv.com All-natural skin and body care products free from synthetic ingredients. Made with freshly extracted Aloe Vera gel and enhanced with therapeutic-grade essential oils. Found in many of the bestknown spas in Vietnam. The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 www.thebodyshop.com Internatioanl cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products. Dermalogica Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 www.dermalogica.com U.S. brand of cleansers popular among skin care professionals. The line of toners, exfoliants, moisturizers and masques are engineered by skin therapists to be free of common irritants, and the company is categorically opposed to animal testing. The Face Shop 294 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3820 2325 598B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3832 2095 94 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3923 9868 www.thefaceshop.com Local retailer for the South Korea-based international brand of natural body, bath and skincare products. The company pairs variety with value, offering hundreds of products for different skin types. Also has kiosks at Co.op Mart in Phu My Hung, Diamond Plaza and Zen Plaza. L’Apothiquaire 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com info@lapothiquaire.com French-made natural products for all types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario Toscano. Available at all L’Apothiquaire outlets. L’Occitane en Provence New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 French cosmetics company with a 30year history offering a range of bath and massage oils, essential oils, body and hand care products are especially well known. Also has outlets in all the major downtown shopping malls. Sian Skincare Laser Clinic 71–77 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel:3827 6999 info@sianclinic.com www.sianclinic.com Skincare laser clinic offering the latest in non-surgical esthetic treatments including Botox, laser, acne treatments, hair loss regrowth, hair removal, skin rejuvenation and anti-aging treatments. Led by Dr. Tran Ngoc Si, a leading esthetic dermatologist from the hospital of Dermatology of HCMC. SPAS Aqua Day Spa Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Recently revamped luxury eight-room spa with a holistic approach to treatment, using natural Harnn products plus hot stone therapy and seaweed treatments. Belissima Spa 3rd Floor Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3272 8682 Well known in Hanoi and now available in Ho Chi Minh City, Belissima offers range of facial treatments, body therapies, and hand and foot treatments as well as special packages such as Coffee and Chocolate Body Toning Treatment. 92 asialife HCMC Dragon’s Nest 186 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 6271 2076 Exquisite interior and outdoor design in remodeled villa. An extensive range of pampering options are available as well as a restaurant, hair salon, pool and terrace bar. healthy hair listings family Glow Spa Eden Mall, Mezzanine Level 106 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 8368 spa@glowsaigon.com www.glowsaigon.com Decorated in mandarin orange, this urban spa boasts four single rooms, two couples suites with private shower, and a VIP suite, complete with a hydro bath. Uses Italian products, Comfort Zone. ACTIVITIES Henni Biscoe NTFQ2 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 0126 874 9596 henni.biscoe@gmail.com Physical therapist from the U.K. offers personal training and therapeutic massage, including deep tissue/sports and pregnancy massage. Alpha Gallery 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Printmaking classes for both adults and children run by Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber. Six-week courses start with the basics and swiftly move students towards producing proofs and final prints from copper plates they have created. Freedom of expression is encouraged and other mediums are also explored. Jasmine Spa 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737 jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn Friendly and efficient staff offer haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments.Skin renewal facials, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massages from US$79. Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings. La Maison de L’Apothiquaire 61-63 Le Thanh Ton, D3 Tel: 3822 1218 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 info@lapothiquaire.com www.lapothiquaire.com Traditional French day spa in colonial villa with professional therapists and state-ofthe-art treatments. Complimentary use of swimming pool, sauna and steam bath. Has fitness centre and organic garden restaurant and offers gentlemen’s care. Winner of Guide Award 2005-2009. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from ErbarioToscano. NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain. Also offering Hawaiian Lomi Lomi massage to reduce tension and reiki treatments. Renaissance Riverside Spa 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 No-frills Vietnamese, shiatsu and aromatherapy massages from US$22 plus a room dedicated to foot massages from US$18 at the atrium level. Also has sizable steam and sauna rooms at the club Spa Authentic at Thao Dien 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 6453 Located on the banks of the Saigon River, offering day spa and fitness facilities with a riverside pool. Xuan Spa Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Beautiful spa with highly rated Swedish massage and water therapy including the unique 60 minutes Vichy shower to soften and smooth skin or the Indian Shirodhara with special oil for 45 minutes. Spa packages aimed at rejuvenation, calming, and hydrating are also available. YKC Spa & Hair Studio 219 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Tel: 3829 2791/3827 5194 www.ykcspa.com Frequented by expats, Canadian owner Cindy offers a full range of spa services including waxing, facials and hand, foot and body treatments in a relaxed setting. Questions for the Coiffeur By Lloyd Morgan Q. My stylist back in Australia always properly coloured my grey hair. Why doesn’t my Vietnamese stylist ever totally disguise this tell-tale sign of ageing? A. To be honest, you get what you pay for. There are great stylists in Australia and New Zealand because they are thoroughly trained. The foundation of good colouring is the correct use of peroxides. Tell your stylist to use a nine percent peroxide solution to cover your grey hair. I presume your stylist is only using six percent peroxide, which will not do the job. On the other hand, 12 percent may be too strong and compromise the colour. I suggest you go to another stylist with the experience necessary to get what you want. Q. I had my curly hair straightened. I now regret it, as my hair is growing out and looks crazy. What should I do? A. Firstly, your stylist should’ve told you what would happen when your natural hair grew back. I never straighten hair unless the person is fully aware of the problems associated with this procedure. You can get away with wavy hair growing back, but tight curls look disastrous. You could straighten your hair again but the stress of repeatedly doing this damages your hair. Alternatively, you could perm your hair to hide the straight bits. You’re between a rock and a hard place. Q. I hear you’re a fan of aloe vera. Why is it good for your hair? A. Aloe vera is a plant consisting of many vitamins, trace elements and amino acids. It has many benefits, and is used to treat intestinal problems and skin irritations. When regularly used, it strengthens your hair follicles. It’s especially good for fine hair as it gives it body. Put the plant’s gel in a blender, then apply it to your hair and leave it in for an hour. Aloe vera can be taken as a drink or rubbed onto your skin. I drink it daily. My recipe involves taking the green skin off half an aloe vera leaf, and putting the gel in the blender with orange juice and a tablespoon of honey. If you have more than one drink daily you’ll notice you don’t feel hungry because your body receives a large dose of nutrients. Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio at Dragon’s Nest, District 2. Contact him at 090 842 2007 or lloydskate@hotmail. com. Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000VND and 300,000VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student. Rubba Duckies Swim School rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Parent and infant water familiarisation classes in a group environment from six to 48 months. Classes take place at Somerset Apts., D1; Riverside, D2; APSC, D2 or AI D2 and D3. Email for schedule. Saigon Movement An Phu Tel: 098 702 7722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Sports and creative movement classes for kids 2 to 11. Classes improve children’s total body awareness through a variety of games and sports-based activities. Phu My Hung schedule starts in September. Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000VND for kids from age six. SaigonSports Academy An Phu and Phu My Hung Tel: 0862 819 790 info@saigonsportsacademy.com Sports academy founded by Pro tennis coach currently offering tennis, football, basketball and swimming training to kids 4 to 18. Professional coaches integrate international concepts and systems to draw out athletes’ natural abilities. Also operates a youth football league. The Performing Arts Academy 19A Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 090 339 0675 info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in guitar, singing, piano, flute, clarinet, saxophone and drums. ABRSM qualified. Group dance and drama session also available. Offering Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3-5. Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs US$50 for 12 classes/months with a US$25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918149. BABY EQUIPMENT Baby 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 A large store stocking a good range of baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots and bottles. Prices are reasonable. Babyland Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Quality products including car seats, buggies, prams and travel cots and a good selection of baby toys. Carries Avent bottles and sterilizer sets, and a small range of educational books. Prices are higher than the other places, but so is the quality. Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices. Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices. New Parent Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Ly Chinh Thang and Ky Dong Street. An interesting array of baby formula and hard liquor. A one stop shopping cluster for first time parents. EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities. ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations). The Australian International School Saigon Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 enrolment@aisvietnam.com www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/MYP candidate school. Senior students follow IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only school in Vietnam authorized to deliver University of New South Wales Foundation Studies grade 12 curriculum. Wellresourced classrooms, highly trained and experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted for academic, sport, creative activities. British International School An Phu Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com asialife HCMC 93 With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curriculabased education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities. Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes. Canadian International School SC 39, Panorama Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 1549 www.cis.edu.vn cis@cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers classes from kindergarten to grade 9 for local and foreign students. Teaches core Ontario curriculum and awards Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognised by universities worldwide. Vietnamese programme taught by local teachers. International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures. International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) 92 Nguyen Huu Canh Street, Ward 22, Binh Thanh District, HCMC Tel: 2220 1788/89 www.issp.edu.vn Located five minutes from District 1, ISSP offers an American-curriculum taught by certified North American teachers for nursery to grade 4 (grade 5 to be added in 2011). All passport holders, including Vietnamese, are welcome. Includes Mandarin, golf, home languages and an active extra-curricular programme. Montessori International School 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilises an internationally recognised educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/ extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs. Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities. RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields. Saigon Kids Centre 104A Tran Quoc Toan, D3 Tel: 3932 5579 saigonkidscentre@yahoo.com An international childcare centre for children aged between two and six years old. Offers a homely and warm environment for children to play and learn. Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internation- 94 asialife HCMC ally trained teachers giving an unique opportunities to learn. Saigon Star International School 172 Nguyen Van Thu, D1 Tel: 3822 0341 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn Offers a British primary curriculum approved by Cambridge University and integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities. Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC. Smartkids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Thao Dien Ward, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 www.smartkidsinfo.com International child care center offers day care and pre-school to children from eighteen months to six years old. Fun and friendly environment focuses on learning through play. Stamford Grammar 214 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 7343 4Bis Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: 3822 3339 www.stamfordgrammar.com enquiry@stamfordgrammar.com International kindergarten following a Singapore curriculum for children from 18 months to 6 years of age. Taught by Vietnamese and native English-speaking teachers. Outdoor play areas, swimming pool, music and art & craft rooms where students can play and learn in a safe environment. ENTERTAINMENT Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games. Some child-friendly dining options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream concession. Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes. Parkson Plaza 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Arcade game after arcade game line the top floor here with a bowling alley and a decent food court thrown in on the floor below. A good place to take the kids after trawling through Parkson’s numerous concession stands. PARTIES A2 196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Well-known toy shop that also does a substantial line in fancy dress costumes and partywear. Also has a concession at An Phu Supermarket. Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more. asialife HCMC 95 ask auntie emily living n ildre old h c ears or e f s to 6 y car18 month d l i available Ch from s m a he year rogrt any moment of t p iblpeossible a x e Flolment r en BUSINESS GROUPS AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com Dear WKC: 96 asialife HCMC AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org Clash of the Kiddies Dear Auntie Em: Our best friends have two children who do NOT get along with our 5-year-old son. He is somewhat shy and enjoys his own company, doing puzzles, reading or playing computer games. The two girls (ages 4 and 6) are very outgoing and fun-loving. The adults get along like a house on fire, but whenever we plan joint travel or an outing, our son asks, “Can’t I just stay with my own friends?” We are planning a trip this coming school holiday. Any ideas on how we can all enjoy it? - When Kids Clash 1172 Thao Dien Compound, District 2, HCMC (Thao Dien) 26 Street 10, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC (Riverside/ ISHCMC area) Tel: +84 (0) 8 3744 6076 or 0903 957 316 (Ms. Yoko) Email: enquiry@smartkidsinfo.com Web: www.smartkidsinfo.com listings We often expect our kids will get along with our friends’ kids, but it doesn’t always work out that way. In your case, two very outgoing girls with one introspective boy is a mix that doesn’t match. Some suggestions: Don't force it. Don’t insist that the kids play together. During the early school-age years, children are beginning to become more discriminating about their friends, tending to choose buddies who have similar temperaments and interests, and they may show a preference for peers of the same gender. It’s important to respect and acknowledge your children’s choices regarding playmates. Be honest. Talk honestly with your friends. I am sure they are just as aware of the situation as you are. Say something like, “My son is at the age where I shouldn’t choose his friends. So it’s a little awkward when we all get together because, let’s face it, my son loves basketball and your girls like to dress up.” If your friends are good friends, they’ll understand and will appreciate your honesty. Find what works for you. Plan your trip to include enough “alone” time for the children to do things they enjoy, but also let them know that there will be some “together” time. Parents can also take the long view, recognizing that there are important lessons in such experiences for kids to learn. It’s a fact of life that you’re not going to become great pals with everyone you meet—but with support, kids can learn to treat people they’re not that keen on with respect and kindness. Try an activity that adults and children can play together—a round of Pictionary or a badminton match. Bring along an activity to share with the other children. For example, you might bring ingredients for the children to make a nice dessert together, costumes for them to prepare their own little show or treasure hunting games that allow them all to complete the task in their own time. Combine these with time for the children to do their own thing, which gives the adults a chance to socialize. It’s your vacation, too! Email your questions about childhood development to auntie-em@asialifehcmc. com. British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com CAMERAS Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses. Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City. Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service center for Nikon camera that also specialises in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available. Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable. COMPUTERS Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff. Honours Apple service plans. Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards. Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor. SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services. Freeware and shareware also available on the store website. CONSULTING Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment. Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets. Flamingo Corporate Services Indochina Park Tower, Room 606, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 2217 1662 www.flamingovn.com Provide optimised immigration solutions and services such as visas, work permits, resident permits, police clearances, authentication, certification and apostille in Vietnam and worldwide. Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology. IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private Insurance and Finance. Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist. Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals. Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 asialife HCMC 97 people matter www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting. Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services. Star Management Limited 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765 www.starlimited.com Business advisory services for companies investing in Vietnam, business/ project advancement and a range of business development services. Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys. Recruitment Absurdities By Gary Woollacott I have seen thousands of CVs over the years - most of them dull and forgettable. Yet occasionally a CV comes along that brings a bemused smile to my face. Some candidates think it’s important to provide pointless personal information such as the names of their parents and other relatives, their weight, state of health, and their blood group. Others, often unwittingly, make hilarious statements. People have proudly noted their hobbies include sleeping, eating, fasting, drinking alcohol and even “petting.” One woman talked up being a member of a frequent flier programme. On the other hand, some companies make ridiculous demands when it comes to recruiting staff. One client insisted its new chief financial officer (CFO) must have been born in 1963. A superstitious chief executive officer (CEO) had consulted his Feng Shui master, who determined only people born in 1963 were going to be suitable for the role. While we initially tried to fulfill his request, we struggled immensely and eventually told him it was one of the most absurd requests we had ever received. He wasn’t pleased to hear that and started calling around other headhunters, who all told him the same 98 asialife HCMC thing. We eventually managed to persuade the CEO to see sense and relent. We then continued the search—to find the best CFO, and not someone who matched an illogical profile. Another problem is when a manager wants to recruit someone to suit his or her personal needs instead of those of the company. We encountered this when a general manager (GM) rejected every candidate for spurious reasons: too old or young, hair too short or long (you get the idea). It was clear the GM wanted someone to carry out her will rather than do the right thing by the client, a multinational corporation. We notified the regional office and the GM was quickly overruled. They hired an excellent candidate, who stood up to the GM and within six months she was no longer working for them—a good result for transparency and for our client. As usual, let me know if you wish me to cover any particular topic. Gary Woollacott is the Chief Representative for Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net. Opus is an associate of Horton International. DECOR Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at US$60 each and small prints cost US$25. Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs. OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10am to 6pm. Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specialising in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh. Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A Variety of antiquesand faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches. Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals. Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags. Anupa Boutique 84 Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3915 1473 Retails in unique and affordable range of consol and coffee tables, trays, mirrors and lamps in a range of different textures such as leather resin, bamboo and walnut. Son & Then Photogallery 94 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Adorning the walls of this gallery-cumcafé are a number of photographs by local photographers mostly focusing on tasteful female nudes. Smaller prints start at US$20 while larger works can reach US$500. Framing, consulting and delivery services are also available. Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery. Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves. Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like. Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions. Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide- range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request. Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Vietnam-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specialises in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province. Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories. Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty. Tech Street Huyen Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players. FURNITURE Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black. AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam. Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more. Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers. Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide- range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request. El Gallery 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 8306 Traditional decor with a modern twist. Offers a variety of mid- to high-range furniture, rugs, lighting, art and accessories from around the world, plus interior design services. Also imports furniture to Vietnam for export to Europe and the United States. Esthetic 2B Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3910 1996/7 Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture. Friendly staff speak excellent English. Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe. Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops. Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin. Linh’s White 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces. Mantra 84 Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3915 1473 www.mantravietnam.com Tables, photo frames, trays, stools are just some of the elegant vivekkevin items you will find at Mantra. If you’re looking for items that use Vietnamese materials but have a modern contemporary feel, Mantra is it. New items received daily. Quasar Khanh Aluminium Cast Furniture, Gaya ELECTRONICS Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment. Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English. Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators. Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com – Established since 2001 – Design, Interior/External Decorations of High Quality Wood Products – Manufacturing for Export, Construction Projects, Retails,... – Copy-Antique Productions, Modern Designs and Made to order – More than 10 years experience – Devoted premium services/after sales services, every time, every where 2B Ngo Van Nam, Dist.1, HCMC (Near the Mandarine restaurant) Tel: (84 8) 3910 1996 / 97 – Fax: (84 8) 3910 1995 Hot line: Ms. Tran Nhat Thu - Director. Mobile: 0903 849 232 Website: www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn – Email: esthetic@vnn.vn asialife HCMC 99 Mekong Merchant Boutique 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Small rustic boutique attached to the popular restaurant sells hybrid furniture, accessories, candles and handicrafts. Also hosts sem-regular bazaars in support of the Indochina Media Memorial Foundation. Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use. Remix Deco 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com Boutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around the world. Featured designers include Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode. Shop 63 63 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 3898 2821 Large, serene antique shop specializing in furniture in French colonial, Asian and art deco styles, as well as lamps, vases and other home décor from around the world. Also carries small collection of original paintings, fashion and jewellery. The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications. All at international quality export. The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products. Houses & Villas For rent in Dist.2, HCM: An Phu, Thao Dien, & Tran Nao Save time: See all pictures & details online. Updated daily. www.snap.com.vn 100 asialife HCMC The Sixty Three 63 Xuan Thuy Ward, Thao DIen, D2 Tel: 0938 485 211 www.let-us-do.com New show room concept store of architectural and interior design collective ‘Let Us Do’. Specialises in unique and original furnitures, interior decoration, lamps and women’s fashion and jewellery. Thien An Furniture 90A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3910 5650 A range of beautiful furniture with a distinct traditional flavor from colourful silk lampshades, wooden carved beds, screens, chests and more. LEGAL Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam. Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-the- ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam. Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam. Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets. Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia. Lucy Wayne & Associates 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 4395 www.lwavietnam.com Law firm providing legal services across the board from entertainment and environmental law to health care and real estate. Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others. Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects. Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions. LIGHTING Caodong Design Boutique 37bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 207L Vo Thi Sau, D3 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Spanking new store with a range of beautiful items ranging from interesting lighting with decorative table lamps with hand-painted paper shades and some lovely leather boxes and gift ideas. Light House 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3914 2662 Small retail shop is packed with ceiling and wall light fixtures, and a good selection of desk and ceiling lamps. Most of the stock is decidedlly modern and sleak. Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship. Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk. Treasure Light 18A Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 4315 www.treasure-light.com High-end lighting shop specialising in fine lacquered lamps. Designs are sophisticated and minimilast. Wide selection of table lamps, wall lamps, floor lamps and ceiling lamps. MOTORBIKES Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation. Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode. Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards. Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Lots of options for kids. Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market. REAL ESTATE www.chamberproperty.com Chamber Property Consultancy has more than 100 houses and flats available for rent in HCMC. Contact them today for more information. Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens. Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city Saigon Village 523 To Hien Thanh, D10 Tel: 3865 7249 www.saigonvillage.vnn.vn Fully furnished villas and apartments in a tranquil, leafy complex cordonned off from the pressures of Ho Chi Minh City. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool. Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidencecom Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service. Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in district two. Full listings online. RECRUITMENT First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net Namhouse Corporation 24 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating. Supports professional services and after-sales. The Nest Tel: 090 319 8901 (Laurence) Tel: 090 793 3000 (Thuong) laurence@thenest-vietnam.com thuong@thenest-vietnam.com www.thenest-vietnam.com Real estate agent maintains a well-organized and frequently updated website listing apartments, villas, townhouses condos and offices. Renters/buyers can receive regular updates via email. Nguyen Du Park Villas 111 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 0788 www.ndparkvillas.com.vn Boutique residence of fully-serviced, luxury downtown apartments designed to combine the atmosphere of a villa with ranges in size from one-bedroom apartments to four-bedroom duplex units. CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent. Platinum1 Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com Your one-stop agency for housing and office space in the city with pre-viewing selection before the visit and full support throughout your lease. Chamber Property Consultants Tel: 0168 349 9991 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn - www.linhfurniture.com asialife HCMC 101 cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services. finance HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity. The search team specialises in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities. Mekong Emerald Talent Recruitment 68 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Tel: 0938 001 509 www.mekongem.com Offers comprehensive manpower services including executive search and selection, employment outsourcing and HR management in a wide variety of industries. The Long and Short of it By Paul McLardie My mother always told me not to sell myself short. Her point was I shouldn't underestimate myself. However, sometimes it pays to short sell shares. Generally when you buy a stock, you're taking what's called a long position. You hope its price will rise so you can sell it for a profit. But if you take a short position, you’re thinking the exact opposite. You want the stock to go down so you can profit from the decline. This “upside-down” version of investing in shares—selling stock short—involves borrowing the stock from another investor. You're obligated to replace those shares in the future, but you hope to buy them at a lower price. So you sell the borrowed shares now, believing the stock will decline. If the stock's price does fall, you buy it back at the deflated price, return the borrowed shares, and profit. Here's an example. You think BP’s stock is overpriced at £5.80 per share, so you decide to “short it.” On your behalf, your broker borrows 1,000 shares of BP from another investor and then sells the stock, netting you about £5,800. Let's say you are right about it being 102 asialife HCMC a poor investment, and the stock falls to £2.90 per share. Now you can buy 1,000 shares for just £2,900 and return them to your broker. You pocket £2,900—£5,800 minus the £2900 purchase, less whatever the broker's services cost. Not bad. And you thought stocks had to go up to make money in the market. Say you take a long position, and buy 1000 shares of BP for £5.80 per share. If the company goes bankrupt, you would lose your original investment of £5,800. However, imagine the stock soars from £5.80 per share to £15. You have to buy back the shares, costing you £15,000. In the end, you’ve lost £9,200. There's no limit on how high stock can climb and, theoretically, on the extent of your losses either. Given how risky selling stock short can be, perhaps my mother was right all along. Finding real value by investing for the long term is the safest way for normal investors to profit from shares. Contributed by Paul McLardie, Partner of Total Wealth Management. Paul. mclardie@t-wm.com, www.twm.com Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising. Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net. Smart HR Capital Place Building, Suite 601, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5828 www.smarthrvietnam.com Human resource consultants specialising in job search and selection, and human resource management. TMF Vietnam Saigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222 hang.bui@tmf-group.com www.tmf-group.com With more than 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide. Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more. RELOCATION AGENTS Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 0122 5141 848 aurelien.jouve@alliedpickfords.com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specialising in business and office moves. Overseas and specialist movers also available. Asian Tigers Transpo International Room 201 and 202, 216 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 9484 Tel: 3945 0891 matt.king@asiantigers-vietnam.com www.asiantigersgroup.com International moving agency, homesearch, orientation, settling in programs and work permit assistance. Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com International moving company serving diplomats and private customers, employees and expats, providing domestic and iternational transportation of household, office and industrial goods. UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations HUD Buillding, Unit 1303, 159 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 3629 www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with warehousing, handyman, insurance & claim, orientation an partner career support services also availble. JVK International Movers Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6 chris.honour@jvkasia.com www.jvk.com International agengy with a full range of services including sea/air freight services and worldwide transit coverage. Mekong Emerald (MEK) Relocation 68 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Tel: 09800 1509 www.mekongem.com Full range of services including pet move/ care, car rental, pre-move consultation, cross-cultural training and visa/immigration support. Resident Vietnam 187/9/1 Bach Dang Street, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 8443 / 3848 8285 www.residentvietnam.com Specialises in immigration management, destination services and cross-cultural training and car leasing assistance. Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support. UniGroup Worldwide UTS Vietnam 440/26A Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 3836 3002 www.unigroupworldwide.com Global mobility company offering international corporate relocations, settling-in assistance and cross-cultural training. STATIONARY Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass. listings fashion ACCESSORIES Accessorize 48 Dong Du, D1, Tel: 3822 1081 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more. Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods. Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries childrens wear, toys, furniture and homewares. Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men. Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery. Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices. Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses. Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women such as notebooks for a classic vagabond look. Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made with excellent local craftsmanship. Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads. Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about US $30, and many are suitable for both day and night. J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous. Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses. Lovely Lien Jewellery 20 Le Loi, D1 A small and unassuming jewellery store with beautiful and reasonably-priced necklaces, bracelets and earrings. You can also bring your own precious stones or ask the designers to make something unique for you. Louis Vuitton Opera View, corner of Dong Khoi and Le Loi Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available. Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets. Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous hand- Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from US $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor. Prices start from US $65 for an ao dai with simple embroidery. Deanh Jewellery Eden Mall, 106 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3827 6039 Gorgeous selection of gold accessories imported from Turkey and Italy. Also has a selection of simple ring designs to set your precious stones in. Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece. Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions. Ipa-Nima 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand. Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes. • download the latest issues • advertising information • editorial enquiries editorial blog asialife.wordpress.com. over 2,500 downloads a month Fahasa 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796 Bookstore chain carries an expansive stock of office and home stationary; a one-stop shop for basic needs. Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered. Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast More than 25 stores providing photocopying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations. 112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz asialife HCMC 103 embroidered bags. Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories •Moving Services •Orientation •Pet Relocation •Work Permits HCMC: +84 8 3933 0065 HANOI: +84 4 3941 0805 sales@santaferelo.com.vn www.santaferelo.com Quality Assured Environmental Assured Therese Jewellery Sheraton Hotel, 88F Dong Khoi, D1 www.theresejewelry.com Small, glitzy retail outlet. Sells everything from diamond earrings to gold and silver wedding rings. Of special note is the selection of jade Buddhas in varying sizes, with the larger ones costing US$250. The friendly staff speak excellent English. Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach. Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519 www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes. 2bling 246 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Specializes in urban streetwear, with a range of t-shirts, sneakers, baseball caps, hoodies and more. Tees are both imported from around Asia and designed in-house. Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly. Tumi Rex Hotel, 151 Nguyen Hue www.intl.tumi.com Tumi houses an opulent selection of Italian-made luggage geared towards men. Briefcases, messenger bags and backpacks are among those on display. Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations. Luggage Street Le Lai Street, D1 between Ben Thanh Market and Truong Dinh. Duffle bags, backpacks, messenger bags and carry-on suitcases are all available on this stretch of District 1. ACTIVE WEAR Airwaves 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 One-stop surf shop selling its own brand of surfware. Also specializes in suncare products, ladies and mens swimwear, surfboards, skateboards and watches. Also with an outlet at Saigon Kitsch at 43 Ton That Thiep in District 1. China Beach Surf Club Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Stocks famous surf and surf-inspired brands like Reef, Rip Curl and men’s wear from Volcom. It has everything you’d need for a visit to the beach and more. There are string bikinis, tees, board shorts, caps and thongs, just to name a few. Pinko Rex Hotel, 146-148-150 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3827 2240 Spacious and simple store displaying women’s sportswear imported from Hong Kong and China. Body lotion and perfume imported from America. Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes. 104 asialife HCMC TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse. READY TO WEAR unisex BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice. “ello 263 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Ths tiny little shop on Phu Nhuan’s hipster fashion strip is stocked with some of the coolest trend items in HCM City. Carries a frequently refreshed selection of t-shirts, skinny pants and women’s tops. FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices. Hagattini 1A Pham Ngoc Thach, D1 Tel: 2244 8105 www.hagattini.com Vietnamese brand housing clothing for all occasions. Normal to office wear, casual to party outfits using materials imported from Hong Kong and designed and made in Vietnam. designers), but also carries jeans, button shirts and more. Miss Sixty & Energie 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Local outlet of the Miss Sixty brand hugely favoured by Hollywood’s young starlets. Also stocks clothes from its men’s label, Energie. Orange 238 Pasteur, D3 Funky little boutique carries unique accessory pieces a good selection of t-shirts with quirky, unique graphics for very reasonable prices. A smaller outpost is located at the corner of Pasteur and Le Thanh Ton in District 1. Rok Factory 382 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.rokexchange.com Small shop founded by local artist/ photographer carries streetwear for the rock-oriented lifestyle, including t-shirts, hoodies, socks and accessories. See By Harajuku 130 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 090 986 8622 Small, friendly store stocking both men’s and women’s streetwear, channelling Japanese and Korean fashion trends. Bright and funky t-shirts and maxi dresses, as well as accessories and footwear. New stock every month. Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear. Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories. Also stocks womens clothing and shoes. VOV Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 403 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.vovietchung.com Retail base for Vo Viet Chung, one of Vietnam’s best-known designers. VOV is known for blending traditional form with contemporary cuts, colours and textures. menswear Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong. Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags. Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available. Another store is located on Hai Ba Trung and Ly Tu Trong Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing. D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and t-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets. Mizada 150 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3822 2508 mizada07@yahoo.com An A-to-Z collection of men’s clothing with an influx of new fashion arriving on the racks regularly. Carries smart, casual shirts, trousers, jeans and jackets, as well as bags and scarves. New Urban Male 226 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 4416 www.newurbanmale.com Caters to a wide range of consumer tastes from beach duds to streetwear. The goods include international men’s brands such as Havaianas, C-IN2, Jabs Waterboys, Rebel Jeans and aussieBum. Also carries men’s grooming products. Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual. The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off. womanswear Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials. Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire. Caro Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, D1 Local designs and tailoring of elegant tops and dresses with a distinctly Eastern influence. Provides a range of attire for both the office and a night out. The friendly staff is eager to help find an outfit for any occassion. Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist. Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display. Contraband Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Ready-to-wear brand for hip, modern women. Range includes office wear to evening wear. The collection is updated each month with new international trends. ER-Couture Boutique 43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www. er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste. Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Konheo 32 Dinh Tien Hoang, Binh Thanh Tel: 6653 4187 info@konheo.com www.konheo.com Founded and run by a group of local Vietnamese guys, this T-shirt store flaunts simple-cut T-shirts with playful prints and humorous printed texts. Also does custom made t-shirts for VND160,000. Levi’s Flagship Store 19–21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3500 1501 The 320-square-metre retail space spread over three levels offers the city’s largest and most exclusive collection of Levi’s bottoms, tops and accessories. L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carres an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including t-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade. Lu.Xu.Bu 320 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Well known among the HCMC hipsterati, this trendy shop is mostly given over to t-shirts (many by young, Bangkok-based Candid Style Caught in HCMC, Photo by Fred Wissink asialife HCMC 105 femme fashion Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear. Etam 188 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Famous all over the world for their French style. There’s a large range of shirts, t-shirts, dresses and more. Also available in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza. Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-aporter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodia-based designer Romyda Keth. Geisha Boutique 43 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 8272 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses. Bag It Up By Adrian Nguyen A statement bag transforms your wardrobe and is the key to every fashionista’s new season look. I could talk about this for eight pages but I will restrain myself, and stick to the confines of this column. Here’s the juice for the season’s “it bags” so you can run out and get yourself a bag or three. Satchel: It’s THE trend this summer; the right one could take you straight into autumn and could be slung around your shoulder for a few more seasons to come. It’s easy to wear and goes with almost everything. It guarantees style, comfort and convenience. Sounds like a good deal! Alexa: The hottest satchel would be the Alexa from Mulberry. Inspired by Alexa Chung, London’s uber-fashionista, this carryall epitomizes the capital's understated coolness. I’ve already got mine in brown, while still eyeing the yellow. So get yours before they’ve all flown off the shelves. Fresh colors: Summer bags are about colors—think azure, lemon, turquoise. Either go for “ton sur ton”—French for "tone on tone" with two shades of the same color used together—or contrast it with your outfit, doesn’t matter. It’s sunny out, so be bold with your choices. Proenza Schouler and Marni have awesome eyecatching colors in stores now. Quilted: It’s timeless, that’s why all designers do it again and again. It’s screaming 106 asialife HCMC chic without you having to do anything. This summer, chose the chain-trimmed one in lighter tones like pale rose or sand and wear it across your body. And nobody does quilt better than Chanel; it’s a great investment. Animal instinct: It’s the perfect time to release the animal in you. Python skin, leopard, zebra—the more exotic the better. Dolce & Gabanna and Roberto Cavalli are experts when it comes to skins. Be fierce when you carry this look but remember one animal print per outfit is good enough (unless you’re Naomi Campbell). You don’t wanna be a roving zoo, and watch out for those PETA enthusiasts. Tough love: Every girl has her dark side and it doesn’t hurt to bring it out once in a while. Think black, heavily studded, or chained and riveted. Wear it with your skinniest skin and highest platform pumps for a night out. Alexander Wang has the best duffel and Balmain has the best clutches I’ve seen yet. No woman should ever leave the house without a beautiful bag in her hand. It’s a makeor-break-the-outfit accessory so be wise with your choices, because once you’ve decided to buy a bag, an intimate relationship should ensue. Adrian Nguyen is a designer and owner of the Valenciani brand. Email your fashion questions to Adrian.ngn@ gmail.com Kiwi 74/1 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3822 1191 Small and intimate shop with a modern collection of fashion items geared towards the young and active urban female. The showroom has a wide collection, from casual clothing to office wear. Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to high-range prices are perfect for twentyand thirty-something women. Labella 85-87 Pasteur, D1 This three-storey shop will take care of all your wardrobe needs: affordable clothes, shoes, bags and lingerie, all well made and fashionable. Le Samedi 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 5013 Boutique retailing in clothes imported mainly from Italy and France, from cocktail dresses to chiffon skirts. La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear. Mai Lam 132-134 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2733 www.mailam.com.vn Boutique store housing an eclectic mix of vintage designer clothes and accessories made in Vietnam. Specializing in handsewn, multi-dimensional embroidery, the re-design of the traditional ao dai and an army vintage collection. Mango Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear. Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand. Minh Hanh 24 Dong Khoi, D1 and 114B Nguyen Hue Tel: 3824 5774 www.mhminhhanh.com Hand- and machine-embroidered fashion made from natural fabrics and materials wed traditional Vietnamese elements with modern trends. Local celebrities frequent this shop. Muse Boutique Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Boutique store carries well-known international brands like Miss Sixty, BCBG, Rock Republic, Tbags and Killah. Nang Boutique 181 Dong Khoi, Room 209, D1 iheartnang@gmail.com Houses an assortment of mix-and-match skirts, floral dresses, chiffon lace-trimmed gowns and accessories, such as hats, shoes, bags, scarves and jewellery. Ngan 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 The Ngan collection includes high-quality evening gowns and swimwear made locally. Also stocks a new line of men’s casual wear. Nino Max 189B Hai Ba Trung, D1 A local popular brand of active-casualwear t-shirts, jeans and khakis. Local pricing. You can also find their other outlets in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza. Peacock 35 Ton That Thiep Tel: 3829 7045 Moulin Rouge-themed boutique housing an interesting selection of women’s clothes designed and produced in Vietnam, including dresses, shirts and t-shirts, as well as jewellery. Rana Abodeely Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Tel:3825 7307 Luxury resort wear in soft, feminine styles. Made with 100% Vietnamese silk with signature glass bead detailing. Comfort, ease and elegance are the main forms of the collection. Shae 101-103 Nguyen Trai, D1 www.shaeny.com New York brand housing streetwear such as cardigans, dresses, shorts and accessories. Signature Boutique 154 Dong Khoi, D1 Houses some of the world’s most recognized luxury fashion brands: Roberto Cavalli, Versace, D&G and Missoni. Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 76D Le Thanh Ton Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats. Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house. CHILDREN Be Happier 181 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dist A small outlet providing children’s clothes from 1 to 6 years old, using only cotton. Mid to high-range prices for quality apparel. Children Planet 90 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Mid to high-range prices for quality apparel, imported material from Singapore. Offering from the age of 5 to 14 years old boys and girls. Dabs Kids Fashion 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 A good selection of both casual and formal clothing for kids aged five to ten. Party dresses, simple T-shirts, trousers and more are all good quality and very reasonably priced. Backpacks and other accessories are also on sale. DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock. Kiko 262 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Wide range of Japanese imported elastic cotton for children, newborns to 14 years old. Kiko also has an outlet on the second floor of Parkson Plaza. La Maison 226 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 On the second floor of this upscale furniture store is a lovely range of pretty dresses and other cotton apparel for kids, from babies to pre-school age. Prices are reasonable. Little Anh – Em 41 Thao Dien, D2 A French brand made in Vietnam offering a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged and thoughtfully collated “sets” of garments for girls and boys from newborn to 10 years old. Lifestyle pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags. Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 83 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9079 220 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3920 3224 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3930 9183 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable. Peekaboo 173 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3612 8329 263 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Locally designed apparel for girls, ages 1 to 10. Materials include cotton, wool and satin. High to mid-range prices. REVE Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Tel: 3825 7307 High-end cashmere, lace, and cotton clothes designed by a French mother/ daughter team. All pieces are handmade and tailored for infants to kids 2 years of age. Small is Beautiful 227 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 38 23 87 54 contact@smallisb.com www.smallisb.com This newly opened boutique aims to be the chic shop for kids in the city. There is a selection of brand name clothing, accessories and creative toys. Clothing comes from international designers such as Baby Dior, Sonia Rykiel and DKNY. SHOES Aldo 157 Dong Khoi, D1 Offering a wide selection of affordable footwear from mid- to high-range prices. Carries office-appropriate and partyready heels and flats, as well as a range of accessories and bags. Catwalk 80 Pham Hong Thai Tel: 3829 6819 www.catwalkshoes.com Carries a unique range of Spanish shoes and bags. Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoy, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops. Footwear Street Ho Xuan Huong Street, D3 between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Le Thi Hong Gam in D1 between Pho Duc Chinh and Calmette Selection ranges from leather loafers to plastic thongs and everything in between. Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists. Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads. Star Polo 97B Nguyen Trai, D1 Mix of imported shoes and locally made footwear crafted from Australian leather for men and women as well as imported ones. Sizes from 38 to 42 for men, and from 34 to 40 for women. TAILORS Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30. Fabric Street Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from Tan Dinh Market. Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured locally and abroad, with more than ample variety of textures, colours and materials to choose from. Fair Fahion 69/20 Duong D2, Binh Thanh Tel: 3899 4198 www.fairfashionvn.org A non-profit retail store offering ready-towear and custom-made fashion. Dresses and formal gowns for women, suits and shirts for men, made by highly skilled former sex trade workers trained to haute couture sewing levels. Thuy Nga Design 7 Lam Son Square, D1 Conveniently located at the Opera House, this local boutique is a one-stop shop for both men and women. The range includes clothes, men’s and women’s accessories and costume jewellery. Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices. Massimo Ferrari Bespoke Bespoke Footwear, Bespoke Suits, Pret A Porte & Luxury Leather Bags and Accessories Address: 42A1 Tran Quoc Thao Street, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City / Ring: 3930.6212 asialife HCMC 107 Spotlight Beerfest Camara Tales Up Dharma Down ViveKKevin New Line Pedro Launch @ Vincom Tower FCUK Store Opening @ Vincom Tower 108 asialife HCMC asialife HCMC 109 Tu Ly g nB cT ha n ng an hT rin g on Tr Le h an Th n To Ngo Ng .H uu Ca u Qu oc Toa n Lac Ng u yen Van Na m Th a ac h t Da Cat Lai Ferry 9km Thu Thiem Ferry Port (for District 2) u Ma m Da ng Tu . T. 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Ph uc V 5 u Ph ng uo Ph Le V an Sy ho i aT run g en oc Ng Tran Quang Tran V a Ky K N yn hT inh Cu a Ha iB D ien Bi n m ai .H .V 4 Gia Dinh Hospital 1.5km e uy Ng Dieu Hu Na ng Pho ng Ho Le Nguyen Du B4, C3, C4 Nguyen Hai Tu A4 Nguyen Hue C4, C5 Nguyen Huu Canh A2 Nguyen Huu Canh B5 Nguyen Huu Cau A3 Nguyen Khac Nhu D3 Nguyen Khoai E3 Nguyen Ngoc Phuong A5 Nguyen Phi Khanh A3 Nguyen Sieu B5, C5 Nguyen Son Ha C2 Nguyen Tat Thanh D5 Nguyen Thai Binh C4, D4 Nguyen Thai Hoc C3, D3, D4 Nguyen Thi Dieu C2, C3 Nguyen Thien Thuat C1, D1, D2 Nguyen Thong B1, B2, C2 Nguyen Thuong Hien C2 Nguyen Trai C3, D2 Nguyen Trung Ngan B5 Nguyen Trung Truc C4 Nguyen Truong To D4, D5 Nguyen Van Cu D2 Nguyen Van Hai A3 Nguyen Van Lac A5 Nguyen Van Thu A4, B3, B4 Nguyen Van Troi A1 Pasteur B2, B3, B4, C4 Pham Hong Thai C2, C3 Pham Ngoc Thach B3 Pham Ngu Lao C3, C4, D3 Pham Viet Chanh A5 Pham Viet Chanh D2 Phan Dinh Phung A2 Phan Ke Binh A4 Phan Van Han A4, A5 Pho Duc Chinh C4, D4 Phung Khac Khoan B3, B4 Suong Nguyet Anh C2, C3 Tan Vinh D4 Thach Thi Thanh A3 Thai Van Lung B5 Thi Sach B5 Thu Khoa Huan C4 Ton Duc Thang B5, C4, C5, D4 Ton That Dam C4 Ton That Thiep C4 Ton That Tung C2, C3 Tran Binh Trong D1 Tran Canh Chan D2 Tran Cao Van B4 Tran Dinh Xu D2, D3 Tran Hung Dao C4, D2, D3 Tran Khac Chan A3 Tran Khanh Du A2, A3 Tran Minh Quyen C1 Tran Minh Quyen B1 Tran Nhan Ton D1 Tran Nhat Duat A3 Tran Phu D1 Tran Quang Dieu A1, A2 Tran Quang Khai A3, A2 Tran Quoc Thao B2, B3 Tran Quoc Toan A2, A3, B2 Tran Van Dang B1, B2 Truong Chinh B3 Truong Dinh B2, C3 Tu Xuong B2, B3, C2 Vinh Khanh D4, D5 Vo Thi Sau A3, B2, B3 Vo Van Tan B3, C2, C3 Vuon Chuoi C2 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh A4, A5 Yersin D4 Ton Nhan Tran 3 Thang 2 C1 Alexandre de Rhodes B4 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan B1, B2, C2, C3 Ban Co C1 Ben Chuong Duong D4 Ben Van Don D4, D5 Bui Thi Xuan C3 Bui Vien D3 Cach Mang Thang Tam B1, C2, C3 Calmette D4 Cao Ba Nha D3 Cao Thang C1, C2, D2 Chu Manh Trinh B4, B5 Co Bac D3 Co Giang D3 De Tham D3 Dien Bien Phu A4, B3, B2, C1, C2 Dinh Cong Trang A3 Dinh Tien Hoang A3, A4, B4 Do Quang Dau D3 Do Thanh C1 Doan Nhu Hai D5 Doan Van Bo D4, D5 Dong Du C5 Dong Khoi B4, C4, C5 Hai Cua A5 Huynh Tinh Cua A2 Huynh Van Banh A1 Khanh Hoi D4 Ky Con A3, B3, B4, C5 Hai Trieu C5 Ham Nghi C4, C5 Han Thuyen B4 Ho Hao Hon D3 Ho Huan Nghiep C5 Ho Tung Mau C4, C5 Ho Xuan Huong B3, C2 Hoa Hung B1 Hoang Dieu D4, D5 Hung Vuong D1 Huyen Tran Cong Chua C3 Huynh Man Dat A5 Huynh Thuc Khang C4 Ky Dong B1, B2 Le Cong Kieu C4 Le Duan B4, B5 Le Hong Phong D1 Le Lai C3, C4, D3 Le Loi C4 Le Quoc Hung D4, D5 Le Quy Don B3 Le Thanh Ton B4, B5, C3, C4 Le Thi Hong Gam C4, D3, D4 Le Thi Rieng C3 Le Van Phuc A3 Le Van Sy B1, B2 Luong Huu Khanh C2, D2 Luu Van Lang C4 Ly Chinh Thang A2, B2 Ly Thai To D1 Ly Tu Trong B4, B5, C4, C5 Mac Dinh Chi A3, B4 Mac Thi Buoi C5 Mai Thi Luu A4 Mai Van Ngoc A1 Me Linh A5 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia A2, B2, B3, C4, D4 Ngo Duc Ke C5 Ngo Thoi Nhiem B2, C2 Ngo Van Nam B5 Nguyen Binh Khiem A4, A5, B5 Nguyen Cong Tru D4 Nguyen Cu Trinh D2, D3 NguyenDinhChieu A4,B3,B4,C1,C2,C3 Nguyen Dinh Chinh A1 Du c Chan h Huynh Va n Ban h Tran Khan ha Tran K A Ph an Din hP hu ng Duat Ng yn uye Hu nV an Tro i 3 at Tran Nh PHU U NH NHUAN HUAN Ma 2 nh Tran Quang Ho Chi Minh City Map Ng i Ch Ca Ng nh Di Hu u 1 oc Ng Airport Dinh Ch inh 3km Saigon South 4km Vinh Hoi Vinh Hoi boxoffice Matt Damon returns to the mystery-thriller genre this month in The Green Zone, starring as Roy Miller, an army officer searching for weapons of mass destruction in Iraq. With the help of a veteran CIA operative and a Wall Street journalist, Miller realizes there are no WMDs and goes searching for the person who tasked him with the hunt—the elusive Magellan. In the process, Miller finds himself in the crosshairs of a group determined to cover up what he’s learned. Popular video game Prince of Persia: Sands of Time makes the jump from PC to the big screen. Jake Gyllenhal stars as Dastan, a prince who, with the help of a beautiful rival princess, fights to save his kingdom and the world from evil forces bent on using the Dagger of Time to control the world by turning back time and enslaving all of humankind. Beloved comic strip Marmaduke is also adapted for bookshelf the cinema in a story that sees the endearing Great Dane and his family, the Wilsons, move from Kansas to Orange County, California. Marmaduke, voiced by Owen Wilson, is in for a culture shock as he adapts to his new posh surroundings and navigates humorous disasters with his cat sidekick, Carlos (George Lopez). For those who were addicted to the television show and wanted more after the first movie, the entire original cast returns in Sex and the City 2. In this sequel, the girls are all a little older and wiser, but nevertheless, they’re still living their crazy, glamorous lives. Also sourcing from the small screen, Joe Carnahan and the Scott Brothers bring action fans a 2010 version of the 1983 television series The A-Team. The film features Bradley Cooper, Liam Neeson and Jessica Biel as special forces soldiers framed for a war crime they didn’t commit. After escaping a military prison, they strike back as mercenaries. Who says women over 50 don’t date? Meryl Streep gets around in the romantic comedy It’s Complicated. Streep’s character, Jane, is an aging divorcée with no romantic prospects until she meets Adam (Steve Martin). Next thing you know, her exhusband (Alec Baldwin) comes crawling back to her after his second marriage starts to collapse. Pretty soon Jane is juggling both men. In a new take on the 80s classic The Karate Kid, Jaden Smith steps into Ralf Macchio’s gi, playing the role of Dre Parker. After moving to Beijing, Dre is bullied at school until a kindly custodian, Mr. Han (Jackie Chan), helps him master martial arts and fight back. A hunky Ken doll, stuffed strawberry and a now Spanishspeaking Buzz Lightyear are great companions to old favourites in Toy Story 3. In this latest installment, Andy prepares to go to June 4 Green Zone Prince of Persia June 18 It’s Complicated The A-Team The Karate Kid college and Woody and company find themselves abandoned at Sunnyside Daycare Centre. Hong Kong film aficionados take note: This month Vietnam screens Just Another Pandora’s Box, a comedy-adventure that takes place in the same universe portrayed in director Jeffrey Lau’s 1994 classic, A Chinese Odyssey. The film follows the time-traveling exploits of lovelorn immortal Rose (Betty Sun) and an imposter posing as legendary general Zhao Yun (Ronald Cheng) and features a jumble of HK and Hollywood film references. British fight film The Tournament explores a top-secret killing contest that takes place every seven years. Competitors are the world’s finest assassins, special military forces and serial killers, and the stakes are high. Outfitted with tracking devices, participants hunt and kill each other in a bid for the cash prize of £10,000,000 and ultimate glory. opening dates CINEMAS C: Cinebox www.cinebox212.com.vn G: Galaxy www.galaxycine.vn L: Lottecinema www.lottecinemavn.com M: Megastar www.megastarmedia.net T: Thang Long www.giaitrithanglong.com/cinema 112 asialife HCMC June 11 Marmaduke Sex and The City 2 June 25 Toy Story 3 Just Another Pandora’s Box The Tournament The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings. In the Place of Justice: A Story of Punishment and Deliverance The Bedwetter: Stories of Courage, Redemption, and Pee Wilbert Rideau Sarah Silverman Knopf HarperCollins Growing up with no father figure and a mother on welfare, life was never going to be easy for Wilbert Rideau. At age 19, he was involved in a bungled robbery that resulted in a fatal stabbing. Subsequently Rideau was sentenced to death row at the notorious Angola prison in Louisiana. In his harrowing memoir In the Place of Justice, Rideau recounts 44 years of incarceration with brutal honesty. While on the inside, he transforms himself into an exemplary prisoner and becomes the editor of the prison’s magazine, The Angolite. Rideau publishes candid articles — including an exposé on a malfunctioning electric chair — and wins a George Polk award, one of American journalism’s most coveted prizes. The memoir culminates in Rideau’s bittersweet release from Angola and his adjustment to a dramatically changed society. Sarah Silverman is known for poking fun at everything from poop to Jesus to genocide. Nothing is too taboo for this female comic. After success in the film, television and music industries, Silverman has turned to the written word. Her memoir The Bed Wetter: Stories of Courage, Redemption, and Pee — for which HarperCollins reportedly paid her $2.5 million — is shrewd and crude from cover to cover. The humour begins with a warning that readers may not enjoy the book if they’re offended by public nudity, and doesn’t let up until the end of an afterword written by "God.” Silverman steers readers through tough times in her life, in chapters such as "My Nana Was Great But Now She’s Dead." Satirising society with a breathtaking amount of inappropriateness is sure to further cement her reputation as an iconoclastic comic. The Imperfectionists The Lonely Polygamist Tom Rachman Brady Udall The Dial Press W.W. Norton & Company Former globe-trotting journalist Tom Rachman’s debut novel brings together an assortment of odd-ball characters in, not surprisingly, a newspaper office. The novel follows the Rome-based newspaper’s staff, including a washed up Paris correspondent desperate for a byline and a dejected obituary columnist whose life is transformed by tragedy. A clueless publisher infatuated with his dog, and the mother of the Italian press officer who is obsessed with reading every issue of the paper ever published also add to the dysfunctional bunch. The Imperfectionists is full of unexpected twists and almost reads like a series of short stories, with Rachman dedicating each chapter to one character. As the novel progresses the future of the paper becomes increasingly uncertain. This humourous yet poignant novel is receiving rave reviews. The Lonely Polygamist is the latest novel from Brady Udall, whose debut novel, The Miracle Life of Edgar Mint, was well received and earned him accolades and comparison to the likes of John Irving and Charles Dickens. Udall’s Mormon upbringing has provided inspiration for much of his writing, which has been called wise, hilarious and moving. This dark comedy's protagonist/polygamist Golden Richards has four wives and 28 children but can’t seem to escape a desperate sense of isolation. His construction business is floundering and to make things worse, he tells his wives he is building a senior centre, which is actually a brothel. Critics have reported that, despite his countless flaws, Richard somehow remains endearing and readers will fly through this book to learn the fate of this knotty modern Mormon family. asialife HCMC 113 soundfix USA Top 10 by John Thornton album review this last title artist 1 2 2 NEW OMG California Gurls 3 5 Airplanes 4 3 Nothin' On You 5 4 Break Your Heart 1 8 NEW 6 7 Not Afraid Your Love Is My Drug Alejandro Rude Boy"Giay Phut Mong Manh Usher Featuring will.i.am Katy Perry Featuring Snoop Dogg B.o.B Featuring Hayley Williams B.o.B Featuring Bruno Mars Taio Cruz Featuring Ludacris Eminem Ke$ha Lady Gaga Rihanna Hoang Back week week 6 7 8 9 10 U.N.K.L.E. WHERE DID THE NIGHT FALL Poor James Lavelle. You have to applaud his persistence to carry on creating music when it’s clear that his best and most epochal days are firmly behind him. U.N.K.L.E.’s fourth album features The Heritage Orchestra, whose strings and percussion imbue the largely lacklustre record with a depth and cinematic scale that allows an all-star cast of alt.rock collaborators to run riot. “Follow Me Down” is a moody swirl woven around Sleepy Sun’s wailing. drone band The Black Angels bring urgent rock to “Natural Selection.” “The Answer” (featuring Baltimore’s Big In Japan) rides the crest of an ambient guitar wave as it builds towards a choir-led chorus crescendo. U.N.K.L.E.’s trademark electronic brush strokes and evocative atmospherics bind the album together, but it’s never quite enough to distract you from the fact that James Lavelle has devolved from an innovative and experimental hip hop pioneer into a gloomy nether region post-rock underachiever. 114 asialife HCMC 65daysofstatic WE WERE EXPLODING ANYWAY We Were Exploding Anyway may not be one of the most consistent records you’ll hear this year, but it’s certainly one of the most expressive and passionate. Sheffield’s own 65daysofstatic are everybody’s favourite underdogs. The band has amassed a sizeable and dedicated following with its previous three albums, and the fourth offering sees the glitchy post-rock instrumental band embrace its (until now) suppressed techno-rave side. Off-kilter drum thuds, arpeggiated synthesizers, walloping walls of bass and all manners of sonic conflict adorn the record from head to toe as tracks like “Go Complex,” “Dance Dance Dance” and “Crash Tactics” erupt into unrelenting industrial dance-punk frenzies. The Cure’s Robert Smith pops up to lend vocals on album centerpiece “Come To Me,” a melancholic yet no less powerful number with Smith’s mournful and sullen cries (“All you have to do is close your eyes and come to me”) adding a melodic and even indie-ish layer to proceedings. Clinical, heavy, pounding and thumping, 65daysofstatic are exploding before your very ears. endorsed top ten SAGE FRANCIS LI(F)E After bursting onto the independent hip hop scene in 2002 with the emotionally intense and autobiographical Personal Journals, Sage Francis’ highly anticipated follow-up, A Healthy Distrust, catapulted him to the forefront of the underground hip hop movement and established Sage as a poetic tour de force and generational spokesman. However, Sage soon got stale. 2007’s Human The Death Dance felt old-hat. Over-familiarity was the problem: the same producers making the same beats for Sage to rap about the same played-out social and personal issues. Li(f)e sees Sage Francis turn (re)inventor, as leftfield hip hop beats are exchanged wholesale for an indie-rock soundtrack. Featuring musicians from Sparklehorse, Death Cab for Cutie and Grandaddy, it’s a giant departure from his earlier work. Sage himself is primarily the same though: cynical as hell and righteously judgmental. However, his raps now possess wistful, more empathetic and reflective qualities, signs that the angry, young generational spokesman of 2002 is beginning to embrace his role as alt. hip hop’s wise elder statesman. RATATAT LP4 Having rocked HCM City to its core at Loretofest last November, it seemed appropriate to feature Ratatat’s upcoming record in this month’s Sound fix. Firstly, a word of warning to those expecting something different to LP3: LP4 is a record very much cut from the same cloth. If you’re new to the music of Ratatat then LP4 acts as a perfect introduction to this most colourful and creative of bands. Immaculately produced preprogrammed electronic beats are layered sweetly between Evan Mast’s and Mike Stroud’s full-bodied live percussion and sonically manipulated soaring guitar lines, giving birth to a strange and wonderfully odd musical creature. The songwriting is playful and laid-back with heavy emphasis on the grooves. “Drugs” shuffles and squirms and makes like a slowed-down Daft Punk, while “Mahalo” displays the duo’s knack for crafting fragile, ethereal ballads. The bleeps and smoothly syncopated rhythms of “Mandy” is perfect to cruise the abandoned late-night HCMC streets to. UK Top 10 this last title artist 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 NEW 2 1 8 4 3 5 6 7 NEW Nothin' On You Ridin' Solo Good Times All Night Long Stereo Love OMG Candy She Said She's Always A Woman Leeds Leeds Leeds B.o.B Jason Derulo Roll Deep Alexandra BurkeDavid Edward Maya Usher Featuring will.i.am Aggro Santos Plan B Fyfe Dangerfield Leeds United Team & Supporters week week MTV Top 10 this last title artist 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 4 2 3 7 6 5 10 8 Erase Anka Eenie Meenie Your Love Is My Drug I'm Single Find Your Love Thug Story OMG I'm SO Hood Baby 10 9 Not Myself Tonight Ride Anka Justin Bieber Sean Kingston Ke$ha Lil' Wayne Drake Taylor Swift T-Pain Usher ft. will.i.am DJ Khaled Justin Bieber ft. Ludicris Christina Agullera Ciara ft. Ludacris week week Shane Meadows By John Thornton Shane Meadows is a cornerstone of contemporary independent British filmmaking. His startling and often tragic, yet humorous tales of disaffected, working-class lives have been critically and commercially celebrated like few other modern day British filmmaker. Recalling the kitchen sink realism of filmmakers Ken Loach and Mike Leigh, each of Shane Meadows’ films are rooted in the nature and failure of masculinity. Informed by his own upbringing in the modest East Midlands area of Uttoxeter, East Staffordshire, his directorial style is notoriously relaxed, with little emphasis placed on the actual script, but with a basic premise that is developed through improvisation by the actors. Meadows combines this unorthodox approach with a curious production preference—working on a shoestring budget with an amateur and recurring cast—in order to heighten the sense of realism in his films. Thematically, Meadows’ canon centres on workingclass, adolescent British males. Devoid of positive male role models, they are led astray by enigmatic older men who are flawed by their own lives and inevitably succumb to their own self-destructive tendencies. Twentyfourseven depicts Bob Hoskins as the lonely and broken-down Alan Darcy, a middle-aged man disenchanted by the apathetic and ill-mannered nature of his impoverished community’s youth. As such, he forms a boxing club to get the kids off the street. However, his motivation to do good is driven by a selfish desire to redeem past failures and continually thwarted by his inability to overcome his alcoholism. A Room For Romeo Brass tells the story of two teenage boys’ friendship being manipulated and pulled apart by the sinister loner Morell (played by the excellent Paddy Considine). As Morell’s true intentions towards Romeo’s sister are revealed, Romeo’s absentee father is called upon in a violent climax. Dead Man’s Shoes and This Is England are undoubtedly Meadow’s cinematic masterpieces, and arguably his most shocking and brutal portrayals of what can happen when vulnerable youths are abandoned by their male role models. Paddy Considine stars as Richard in the devastating Dead Man’s Shoes, exacting revenge on a local gang after discovering that his mentally disabled brother has been the subject of physical and psychological abuse in his absence. In This is England Meadows draws directly from his own experiences as a skinhead in the 1980s. The film focuses on the fatherless 12-year-old Shaun and his ethnically diverse band of ska and reggae-loving skinhead friends, who are divided by the right-wing, racist ideologies of the ultra-violent Combo, an older skinhead. Watch any one of these films to experience authentic snapshots of British life on the wrong side of the tracks. asialife HCMC 115 this month in history Saigon Status Symbols I’m not sure what colour my retail aura glows, but it must be code for “sucker” TWA Hijacking, Rocky Horror Premieres, Sonny & Cher Divorce and more Planning a move back to his home country, Jason Page ponders whether he’s earned the title of Saigonite. Photo by fred wissink It was about three years ago when my friend’s fiancé, Stephanie, moved into the South Harlem apartment that I shared with my sister, Kate. At the time, I had lived in New York City for a year, and Kate was approaching her third anniversary. Like good roommates, Kate and I committed ourselves to expediting Stephanie’s acclimation to the city. I enjoyed imparting what modicum of knowledge I could on my Pennsylvania-bred cohabitant. As an ingénue myself, it was nice to be hashing out advice for once. In Stephanie we had a positive and cheerful protege, eager to learn and always up for an educational stroll, so I was happy to play Lewis to her Clark. And then it happened. I don’t recall what caused it—whether it was a sudden bout of culture shock or Steph had just had a bad day at work—but while crossing Columbus Circle one afternoon, she sighed dramatically and exclaimed, “I feel like it’s going to take me months to become a New Yorker!” 116 asialife HCMC If you know anything about New York, you understand just how optimistic Stephanie’s projection was. According to some, becoming a New Yorker is a 10year process—minimum. Indeed, one of the hardest things about leaving New York for HCM City was relinquishing my investment in the title. Now that I’m planning my move back to the States, it’s got me thinking about cashing in my Saigonite stock. For sure, fewer people in HCM City agonize over being accepted into some collective, city-wide fold than do New York newcomers, but I think there’s some criteria we could agree upon. For one, there’s the heat, or more specifically, your ability to contend with it. When I first stepped outside of Tan Son Nhat International Airport, all my psychological preparation evaporated, condensing into one thought: “I’m never going to make it.” Today, I’m holding up much better, but whenever the rainy season approaches and the city swells with humidity, I’m tempted to don my tourist shorts and return to my three-showersper-day routine. On the other hand, I’ve worked out a nearly flawless rainy season preparation plan. With a cloth-lined poncho and a pair of thongs stashed under my motorbike seat, I can navigate just about any afternoon downpour or flooded street. They say the proof is in the pudding; I say it’s in dry socks. I suppose I could just take cabs, but embracing motorbike traffic is another sign of turning Saigonese. In matters of road safety, I remain fairly priggish, but I have adopted certain local road customs—pavement/ sidewalk equals traffic decongestion lane, for example. In other cases, I compromise; I manage mid-traffic phone conversations by tucking my Nokia into my helmet. I call it my Vietnamese Bluetooth. On language, I’ve made just about as much progress as the guy who recites Vietnamese phrases in the audio lessons that I downloaded prior to my arrival and relegated to my desktop’s garbage bin after hearing what Vietnamese really sounds like. However, I think if I can isolate demonstrations of my proficiency to Vietnamese restaurant outings, my failure to grasp the native tongue after more than two years won’t seem quite so epic. Another skill that has eluded me is haggling at the market. I’m not sure what colour my retail aura glows, but it must be code for “sucker.” Vendors halve the price for my girlfriend at the slightest sign that her interest is waning, but I’m lucky to get away with a 200-percent markup. To be fair, my girlfriend has been living in HCM City on and off since 2003. The fact that people usually assume she’s Vietnamese when I talk about her might suggest that one can claim Saigonite status in about five to seven years. If you can make it through traffic unmaimed, wrap your tongue around diacritic marks and weather the seasonal extremes, then that’s not a bad deal. June 8,1949 1984 Published George Orwell’s futuristic novel, 1984 is published. Narrated by civil servant Winston Smith, the plot revolves around the totalitarian state of Oceania, a society run by “Big Brother” that controls its citizens by banning books, guarding information and using surveillance systems. Smith eventually rebels and is imprisoned until he accepts the notion that 2+2=5. The book’s success popularizes the terms Big Brother, Orwellian, thought police and doublethink as ways to describe a government-controlled society. Orwell never gets to appreciate the impact that 1984 has on the masses—he dies one year later from tuberculosis at the age of 46. June 10, 1935 Alcoholics Anonymous Founded Recovering alcoholics Bill W., a stockbroker from New York, and Dr. Bob., a surgeon from Ohio, form Alcoholics Anonymous. Also referred to as the Twelve Step Program, AA adopts a tiered approach to recovery. Group support, confessions and reliance on a “higher power” to stop drinking become integral parts of the programme, but the only requirement for membership is a desire to get sober. AA estimates that there are currently more than 117,000 groups and two million members worldwide. June 14 1985 TWA Flight Hijacked TWA Flight 847 is hijacked by two Shiite Hezbollah terrorists en route to Rome from Athens. Crew members are ordered to identify Jewish passengers, but a U.S. delegation is targeted instead, and a Navy diver is killed. The plane lands in Beirut, Lebanon where all but five passengers are released and additional terrorists wait. The hostages are imprisoned for two weeks before negotiators secure their release. Only two of the terrorists are ever brought to justice. Mohammed Ali Hamadi, armed with explosives, is arrested at the airport in Frankfurt, Germany in 2007, and Imad Mughniyah is killed by a car bomb in Damascus, Syria in 2008. June 16, 1920 Black Like Me Author Born American writer and photographer John Howard Griffin is born in Dallas, Texas. Griffin will become famous in 1961 when he pens the book, Black Like Me, which documents the severe racism he encounters while posing as a black man in America’s Deep South. Griffin is especially struck by the different treatment he receives from the same people as he switches between his black and white identities. The book becomes a bestseller, but death threats force the author and his family to relocate to Mexico. June 19, 1973 Rocky Horror Debuts Musical The Rocky Horror Show premieres at the Royal Court Upstairs in London. When stranded straight-laced lovers Brad and Janet’s car breaks down, they knock on mad scientist Dr. Frank N. Furter’s door and get pulled into a strange world of Transylvanians, transvestites and Furter’s own crew, including Riff Raff, Magenta, Rocky and Eddie. In 1975, a movie version of the show starring Tim Curry, Susan Sarandon and Barry Bostwick is released. It soon becomes a cult classic, with fans dressing in character, reenacting scenes, shouting out lines and interacting with the movie screen during latenight screenings. June 27, 1975 Sonny & Cher File for Divorce Musical duo Salvatore “Sonny” Bono and Cherilyn “Cher” Sarkisian LaPierre file for divorce. The split makes big news in the tabloids when both sides claim infidelity. The actual length of their marriage is disputed; some sources claim they exchanged rings in 1964 in Tijuana, Mexico, while others say the union wasn’t official until somewhere between 1969 and 1971. Cher goes on to win an Academy Award and Golden Globe for her role in Moonstruck, as well as numerous other nominations and awards in film and music. Sonny enters public office as mayor of Palm Springs, California in 1994, but his term is cut short in 1998 when he dies in a skiing accident at the age of 63. asialife HCMC 117 pub quiz Thoâng tin du lòch vaø vaên hoaù ôû Vieät Nam ASIALIFE HCMC Chòu traùch nhieäm xuaát baûn: Nguyeãn Thò Thanh Höông Bieân taäp: Nguyeãn Vónh Trung Söûa baûn in: Löu Thuûy Trình baøy: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Bìa: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Nhaø XuaáT baûn toång hôïp TP. Hoà Chí MINH 62 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q1 ÑT: 38225340 – 38296764 – 38220405 – 38296713 – 38223637 Fax: 84.8.38222726 Email: nxbtphcm@ vnn.vn world history 6) What U.S. president was said to have “lifted himself from a wheelchair to lift the nation from its knees”? 7) Robert Mugabe began three decades of rule over what nation in 1980? 8) What Southeast Asian nation was known as the Dutch East Indies until the late 1940s? 9) The Qing, backed by Chinese farmers and workers, fought seven Western powers and Japan during what 1899-1900 conflict? 10) The fall of Prussia was brought about by what major world event? sports 11) The Los Angeles Xtreme were the only champions of what short-lived professional American sports league? 12) What tennis pros faced off three years in a row from 2006 to 2008 at Wimbledon? 13) Woodsball, speedball and scenarioball are types of what sport? 14) What French footballer gained notoriety for kicking a spectator during a 1995 Manchester United/Crystal Palace game? 15) What Australian swimmer became the first woman to break 60 seconds in the 100m freestyle in 1956? 118 asialife HCMC 16) What is the name of Tom Petty’s longtime backing band? 17) Robbie Williams was a member of what boy group from 1990 to 1995? 18) What jazz legend got his nickname from shortening “satchel mouth”? 19) Who fronted The Stooges from 1968 to 1975? 20) What Detroit-born pop star wrote Sinead O’Connor’s 1990 hit Nothing Compares 2 U? geography 21) The International Dateline is roughly located on what line of longitude? 22) Belgrade is the capital of what country? 23) Bahrain is an island nation located on what body of water? 24) The Irrawaddy Delta is located in what Southeast Asian country? 25) A visitor to what city might climb Sugarloaf Mountain, marvel at Christ the Redeemer and sunbathe on Copacabana Beach? politics 26) Who co-wrote The Communist Manifesto with Karl Marx in 1848? 27) What Spanish word meaning “committee” is often applied to military-led dictatorships? 28) What 17th century political philosopher articulated the social contract in Leviathan? 29) In what nation is Sinn Fein a longstanding political party? 30) In what seminal ancient work by Plato did Socrates articulate the nature of justice and the ideal city-state? 365 Days Advertising Trading Services Co.,Ltd 140 Hoa Lan, P2, Phu Nhuan District Tel: +84 8 3517 2208 Director: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@threesixfive-days.com Managing Editor: Tom DiChristopher tom@asialifehcmc.com Guest Editor: Jade Bilowol jade@asialifehcmc.com Contributing Editor: Thomas Maresca thomas@asialifehcmc.com Staff Photographer: Nam Quan nam@asialifehcmc.com Editorial Interns: Logan Brown Allison Grant Photo Editor: Fred Wissink fred@asialifehcmc.com Production: Nguyen Kim Hoa nguyenhoa@threesixfive-days.com Art Director: Johnny Murphy johnny@threesixfive-days.com Senior Designer: April Hunt april@threesixfive-days.com For advertising and marketing enquiries please call: Nguyen Kim Hanh +84 908 298395 Distribution: Super Long +84 937 633283 / Nam Trung +84 919 361311 AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © Ba Sau Nam Co,Ltd Vietnam 2 4 1 OPENING 08/2 010 9 3 7 9 3 7 2 2 9 4 3 7 5 1 1 1 6 8 2 6 1 9 3 4 Pub Quiz Answers 1) What common Latin phrase means “blank slate.” 2) Half-hitch, Turks head and overhand are types of what? 3) What astrological symbol is denoted by fish? 4) The shekel is the official currency of what nation? 5) What wide-brimmed hat brand, worn by police and golfer Greg Norman, is a national icon in Australia? pop music American Curriculum Certified North American teachers English, math, science, social studies Music, art, physical education, aquatics Mandarin instruction Unique KinderGolf program Home language instruction Campus WiFi and technology instruction Highest quality, well-resourced library Enriched after-school activities ISSP provides a nurturing environment for your child to develop to potential! 1) tabula rasa 2) knots 3) Pisces 4) Israel 5) Akubra 6) Franklin D. Roosevelt 7) Zimbabwe 8) Indonesia 9) Boxer Rebellion 10) WWII 11) XFL (Extreme Football League) 12) Roger Federer and Rafael Nadal 13) paintball 14) Eric Cantona 15) Dawn Fraser 16) The Heartbreakers 17) Take That 18) Louis Armstrong 19) Iggy Pop 20) Prince 21) 180 degrees 22) Serbia 23) Persian Gulf 24) Myanmar (Burma) 25) Rio de Janeiro 26) Friedrich Engels 27) junta 28) Thomas Hobbes 29) Ireland 30) The Republic general knowledge Thöïc hieän lieân keát xuaát baûn: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy In laàn thöù nhaát, soá löôïng 4000 cuoán, khoå 20,5cm x 27,0cm GPXB soá: 159-10/CXB/533-05/THTPHCM Ngaøy 08/02/2010 In taïi Coâng ty ITAXA, ñòa chæ 126 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q.3. 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