Winter 2011 - American Gem Trade Association

PRISM
Winter 2011
AGTA
SPECTRUM
AWARDS™
WINNERS
2011 COLOR
FORECAST
meN + JeWeLrY =
GroWING mArKet
MEMBER PROFILE :
LIKA BEHAR
AGTA
BOARD OF
DIRECTORS
M
E M B E R S H I P
B
PR E SIDEN T
Benjamin Hackman
Intercolor, Inc.
E N E F I T S
The American Gem Trade Association is a not-for-profit Association of United
States and Canadian gemstone professionals dedicated to promoting awareness and
appreciation of natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls.
Founded in 1981, the AGTA has over 1,100 Members representing leading colored
gemstone and cultured pearl wholesalers, retailers, manufacturers, designers,
colored diamond dealers, estate dealers and industry professionals.
AGTA Members are proud to uphold the highest ethical standards, agreeing to the
Association’s strict Code of Ethics & full disclosure of gemstone enhancements.
Membership provides you with many exclusive benefits and services:
Members are eligible to exhibit in some of the most important annual events in
the gemstone and jewelry industry, including AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, AGTA
GemFair™ at the JCK Las Vegas Show, JA New York Show & The Smart Jewelry
Show in Chicago.
Members are featured in the printed AGTA Source Directory and online version.
This is a powerful tool that gives access to a valuable network of fellow gemstone
professionals. Over 20,000 copies are distributed!
Members stay informed about all the AGTA, hot topics surrounding our industry,
gemstone & jewelry fashion with the quarterly Prism & weekly ePrism.
Members have access to leading industry programs. These programs include
VICE PR E SIDEN TS
Robert Bentley
Robert Bentley Company, Inc.
Kambiz Sabouri
Gem 2000, Inc.
SECR ETA R I E S
John Bachman
John M. Bachman, Inc.
Betty Sue King
King’s Ransom
TR E A S U R E R
Sampat Poddar
Byrex Gems, Inc.
DIR ECTOR S
Peter Bazar
Imperial-Deltah, Inc.
Jeffrey Bilgore
Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC
Ruben Bindra
B & B Fine Gems
Bank of America Merchant Services, FedEx Express® Shipping, FedEx Declared
Value, FedEx Kinkos, GE MOney Luxury Program, insurance programs through
Sushil Goyal
Liberty Gems, Inc.
Association Health Programs, the Office Depot: Taking Care of Business program
and car rental services through Avis and Budget.
Members can also access our brand new Members Only Forum and gain valuable
knowledge from our GemFair Tucson Seminar DVD.
The professionalism of AGTA Members continues to set them apart from
the competition.
PR ISM
is distributed quarterly for American Gem Trade Association Members.
Fo r f u r t h e r i n fo r m a t io n o r t o a d ve r t i s e , ple a s e c o nt a c t :
Joshua Garcia
American Gem Trade Association
3030 LBJ Frwy., Ste. 840 Dallas, TX 75234
800-972-1162 214-742-7334 FAX
www.agta.org www.addmorecolortoyourlife.com
ON THE COVER:
2011 AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Collection (from top to bottom) rubellite Tourmaline
ring by Yael Designs, Opal ring by K. Brunini Jewels (Winner), rubellite Tourmaline ring
by Bhojwani, black Diamond ring by J.R. Dunn Jewelers, black Opal ring by Samuel Getz
Designs (Winner) and South Sea Pearl ring by Arunashi.
Photographed by Jack Deutsch.
1 AGTA PRISM|WINTER 2011
Bill Larson
Pala International, Inc.
Glenn Lehrer
Lehrer Designs, Inc.
Gerry Manning
Manning International, Inc.
Joe Orlando
Stuller, Inc.
Ambrish Sethi
Manak Jewels
Lois Wacholtz
Christoper’s Fine Jewelry
John “Bear” Williams
Bear Essentials
PA S T P R E S I D E N T
Barbara Lawrence
Boston Gems & Findings, Inc.
CHIEF E X ECUTI V E OFFICER
Douglas K. Hucker
American Gem Trade Association
L
e t t e r
F
r o m
t h e
C EO
ethical business practices. This is what
an invaluable tool in helping you share
brought them to the AGTA and it is what
this information with your customer.
will ensure their continued support.
These brochures can be ordered from the
One of the fundamental pillars of this
AGTA office or downloaded for training
ethical stance is the complete and precise
purposes and distribution in your store.
disclosure of gemstone treatments.
Whether it is here at the AGTA GemWith this in mind, the AGTA is
Fair™ Tucson, or at any of the trade
recommitting itself to make sure that all
shows that the AGTA participates in, we
of our Members have the appropriate
want your experience to be rewarding,
tools that they need to ensure that they
profitable and fun. When you shop with
can supply their customers with all of the
your AGTA suppliers, you will select
information they need to make a prudent
superior products, at proven value and
and informed gemstone purchase, and
experience a sense of community un-
All things are relative and that certainly
that this transparency is supported
like any other in the industry. You can
applies to the colored gemstone and
throughout the supply chain.
focus on your excitement and passion for
Disclosure Redux
an incredible galaxy of gemstones and
cultured pearls industries as we kick off
the New Year with our annual AGTA
We have once again asked that our
do so with the confidence and peace of
GemFair™ Tucson.
Wholesale
their
mind that comes from of knowing you
our Members have expressed their
commercial documents to the home
are working with gemstone traders who
satisfaction with the business results
office, where they can be reviewed to
are as committed to the integrity of their
they enjoyed this season we arguably
make sure that they are using clear and
products as you are.
have some significant work ahead of
precise methods of treatment disclosure.
us before we return to the pre-recession
We have established a new page on
levels of commerce. It is times like these
our website www.agta.org that can be
where prudence suggests we return to
accessed by clicking on the “Disclosure”
the basics, examine our business models,
button on the home page. Among other
and make the kind of investments, both
items, this page supplies samples of
in resources and in practices that can
effective disclosure language on invoices
Douglas K. Hucker
maintain and grow this momentum.
and also includes all of the informational
Chief Executive Officer
While many of
Members
submit
Sincerely,
brochures that detail for you our
While this kind of self-examination is
requirements according to the AGTA Code
essential, we must also be cognizant
of Ethics. You will also find a copy of the
of the needs and perceptions of our
newly revised Gem Information Manual,
customers who are the underpinning of
endorsed by all of the major industry
our success. In that spirit, we surveyed
Associations, which addresses most of
our Members earlier this year to get a
the common treatments of gemstones and
clear picture of what was important to
the codes that may be used to indicate
them, what encouraged them to join
these treatments on your commercial
the American Gem Trade Association
documents.
and what they most expected from
you will find Gemstone Enhancements,
their Membership. Once again a clear
What You Should Know. This brochure
picture emerged of the importance of
discusses
the AGTA’s unbending commitment to
consumer friendly language and can be
For our retail members,
gemstone
treatments
in
AGTA PRISM|WINTER 2011
2
2011
T
WINNERS
he 2011 AGTA Spectrum Awards™ competition hosted by the American Gem Trade
Association has announced this year’s winners. This year marks the 27th anniversary of
the competition. The Awards will be presented during the 2011 AGTA GemFair™ Tucson,
held February 1 – 6 at the Tucson Convention Center in Tucson, Arizona. The winners will be
displayed at the show and will be recognized at the AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Gala on February 5,
at the Marriott University Park. The gala starts at 7:00 pm, tickets for the gala are $100 and cocktail
attire is encouraged. Get your tickets by calling the AGTA office in Dallas at 800-972-1162 or emailing
shows@agta.org.
Entries are judged on a solid criterion which includes overall beauty and wearability, innovative design,
effective use of materials, quality of gemstones, quality of workmanship, broad-base consumer appeal and
potential to generate positive publicity for natural colored gemstones. Each piece is examined by hand with an
eye for craftsmanship and quality of the materials used. The judging panel changes each year and consists of
experts from different disciplines within the jewelry industry. Judges for the 2011 competition included Tanya
Dukes of Elite Traveler magazine, Jennifer Gandia of Greenwich Jewelers, Glenn Lehrer of Lehrer Designs,
Mallary Marks of Mallary Marks, Inc. and Robin Rotenier of Rotenier, Ltd.
The categories for the 27th AGTA Spectrum Awards™ are Bridal Wear, Business/Day Wear, Classical,
Evening Wear and Men’s Wear. Fashion Forward Honors recognizes trend-setting jewelry. Manufacturing
Honors recognizes jewelry appropriate to be manufactured in production quantities. Introduced in 2010, the
Editors Choice Award returns, with the winners being chosen by the media event attendees. Platinum Honors,
sponsored by Platinum Guild International, recognizes jewelry in the five Spectrum Awards categories.
Platinum Honors added two new categories: Platinum Honors Innovation–Bridal Wear under $2,500 and
Platinum Honors Innovation–Day Wear under $2,000.
Best of Show
Todd Reed, Todd Reed, Inc.
Palladium cuff bracelet featuring a 22.40 ct.
Aquamarine accented with grey Diamonds
(6.90 ctw.) and white Diamonds (2.20 ctw.).
3 AGTA PRISM|WINTER 2011
Best Use of Color
Martin Key, Martin Key Co.
22K yellow gold “Frame” ring
featuring a 1.50 ct. blue Tourmaline
accented with four Mexican fire Opal
baguettes (1.82 ctw.).
Best Use of Platinum
& Color
Judy Evans, Omi Gems, Inc.
Platinum “Princess of Ratnapura”
bracelet featuring nine round
Sapphires (14.0 ctw.) and round
Diamonds (8.48 ctw.).
S
m
a”
d
The AGTA Cutting Edge Awards honor excellence and creativity of
geometry as I am not hand-cuffed by the necessity of working with
the lapidary arts, including natural colored gemstones and cultured
an already designed gemstone. In the case of this piece I created a
pearls, carvings, other gem materials and objects of art in U.S. and
frame of gemstone baguettes to complement the center stone,” Key
Canada. Categories include: Open Category Classic Gemstone, All
said of the 1.50 ct. blue Tourmaline and four Mexican fire Opal
other Faceted Gemstones, Phenomenal Gemstones, Pairs & Suites,
baguettes (1.82 ctw.) “Frame” ring.
Faceting, Carving, Combination and Objects of Art.
For Llyn L. Strelau of Jewels by Design in Canada giving life to
The competition was held October 23-24, in New York, NY at a
his “Who Are You?” began with his fascination of setting baroque
penthouse studio in Greenwich Village. The annual AGTA Spectrum
pearls and his enjoyment of Alice in Wonderland. “At the last AGTA
Awards™ Media Day was held October 25 and featured all of the
GemFair™ Tucson, I deliberately spent many hours combing through
jewelry and gemstone submissions. Attendees included top fashion/
the baroque pearl collections of every pearl dealer. When I found the
accessory editors from the trade and consumer press, stylists, and
single Chinese freshwater pearl that had 6 nuclei joined together it
bloggers. Publications represented included JCK, Instore, Vogue, W,
simply had to be a caterpillar,” said Strelau. After paying attention
Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, InStyle, Women’s Wear Daily, Marie Claire,
to complexities and details, the designers feels that his work looks a
Essence, Smart Money, and many more.
lot like he does! This piece took home Best Use of Pearls.
Colorado designer, Todd Reed, turned to aquamarine and diamonds
Omi Gems has supplied the industry with fine colored gemstones
for his Best of Show and 1st Place Business/Day Day Wear signature
for over 25 years. “We had a vision for a perfect suite of royal
cuff. “This piece was a particular treasure to design and build,”
blue sapphires,” said Niveet Nagpal of Omi Gems. “We sourced
said Reed, a first-time AGTA Spectrum Awards™ winner. “I used
hundreds of Ceylon sapphires in order to assemble this perfect
the diamonds to communicate with the aquamarine in a moody,
suite of nine round sapphires weighing 14.0 cts. Then we turned
dramatic, and moonlight peaking through a lustful cloud cover style.
to designer Judy Evans to bring our concept to life and accentuate
Palladium and silver are subtle in the re-enforcing of the midnight
the natural beauty of the sapphires.” The result is the “Princess of
values.”
Ratnapura” bracelet, awarded Best Use of Platinum and Color
Best Use of Color Winner, Martin Key of South Portland, ME,
Congratulations to all of our winners!
designs from an unusual vantage point.
“First, I envision the
whole piece starting from the gems and working my way out to
The following pages showcase this year’s winning pieces.
the mounting. This allows for unique combinations of color and
Best Use of Pearls
Llyn L. Strelau, Jewels by Design
Sculpture titled “Who Are You” featuring twotone gold and silver with freshwater baroque
Pearls, South Sea keshi Pearls, akoya seed
Pearls, demantoid Garnets (.25 ctw.), .20 ct.
Ruby and cognac Diamonds (.03 ctw.) on a
crystal Quartz base (242 ctw.).
Fashion Forward
Gregore Morin, Gregore Joailliers
18K white and yellow gold earrings
featuring lemon Chrysoprase (22.0 ctw.)
accented with Garnets (2.38 ctw.).
Editor’s Choice
Katey Brunini, K. Brunini Jewels
18K rose gold and silver ring featuring
white Opal accented with blue
Sapphires (3.26 ctw.), Diamonds
(.13 ctw.) and Rubies (.06 ctw.).
ALL GEMSTONE & JEWELRY PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT WELDON.
AGTA PRISM|WINTER 2011
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1st Place
Niveet Nagpal
Omi Gems, Inc.
Platinum and 18K yellow
gold ring featuring a
5.55 ct. oval tsavorite
Garnet accented with

fancy yellow Diamonds
2nd Place
(.71 ctw.).
Guilherme Ferreira
Vielle Jewelers, LLC
18K yellow gold,
palladium and
titanium ring featuring
a 3.14 ct. yellow
Tourmaline accented
with fancy-colored
Diamonds (.74 ctw.).

3rd Place
Michael Endlich
Pave Fine Jewelry
Platinum ring featuring a 10.08 ct.
cushion-cut Spinel accented with
Diamond baguettes (1.09 ctw.).


Manufacturing Honors
Neda Benham
Diamonds For A Cure
18K rose gold ring with a 3.80 ct.
emerald-shaped, rough-cut pink Diamond
and round Diamonds (0.88 ctw.).
B

Honorable Mention
Ryan Roberts, Ltd.
18K white gold ring featuring a 3.02 ct. pink
diamond, white diamonds (29.5 ctw.) and
pink and brown diamonds (24.5 ctw.).
D
U S I N e S S
A Y
W
Platinum Honors
Yehouda Saketkhou
Yael Designs
Platinum “Triad” ring featuring a
6.34 ct. unheated blue Sapphire
accented with white Diamonds
(1.03 ctw.).

Entry Platinum Honors
Robert Pelliccia
J.R. Dunn Jewelers
Platinum ring featuring a 1.37 ct.
round blue Sapphire accented
with Diamonds (.46 ctw.) and blue
Sapphires (.28 ctw.).
e A r
1st Place
Todd Reed
Todd Reed, Inc.
Palladium cuff bracelet featuring a 22.40 ct.
Aquamarine accented with grey Diamonds
(6.90 ctw.) and white Diamonds (2.20 ctw.).


2nd Place
Gregore Morin
Gregore Joailliers
18K white and yellow
gold earrings featuring
lemon Chrysoprase
(22.0 ctw.) accented with
Garnets (2.38 ctw.).

3rd Place
Martin Key
Martin Key Co.
22K yellow gold "Frame"
ring featuring a 1.50 ct. blue
Tourmaline accented with four
Mexican fire Opal baguettes
(1.82 ctw.).

Platinum Honors
Maria Canale
Richard Krementz Gemstones
Platinum "Wave" pendant
featuring a 2.18 ct. Paraiba
Tourmaline accented with
Diamonds (3.72 ctw.).

Manufacturing Honors
Alan Friedman
Alan Friedman
14K white and rose
gold ring featuring a
12.59 ct. emerald-cut
Aquamarine.

Entry Platinum Honors
Ron Lodholz
Stonehaven Jewelry Gallery
Platinum ring featuring a 1.41
ct. Aquamarine accented with
Diamonds (.06 ctw.).

Honorable Mention
Eva Cheng
Elite Import
18K rose gold pendant/brooch featuring
a freeform rose Quartz set with a .70 ct.
round Diamond and accented with 178
Diamonds (1.20 ctw.).
5 AGTA PRISM|WINTER 2011
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L A S S I C A L
2nd Place
Sean Ryan
Schmitt Jewelers
18K white and rose gold "Just Peachy" ring
featuring a 4.50 ct. oval padparadscha
Sapphire accented with white micropave
Diamonds (1.13 ctw.).


3rd Place
Patricia Van Wagoner
Beija Flor
22K yellow gold necklace featuring a 17.17
ct. Rhodochrosite briolette and a 3.58 ct.
Rhodochrosite kite accented with Paraiba
Tourmalines (.45 ctw.).

1st Place
Samuel Getz
Samuel Getz Designs
Platinum and 18K yellow gold necklace
featuring yellow Sapphires (68.77 ctw.), blue
Sapphires (24.34 ctw.), red Spinels (24.20
ctw.) and Diamonds (22.38 ctw.).

Manufacturing Honors
Christopher Duquet
Christopher Duquet Fine
Jewelry Design
14K white gold ring
featuring a 12.5mm South
Sea black Pearl.

Platinum Honors
Cristopher Olson
Molina Fine Jewelers
Platinum "Temple of the
Sacred Heart" ring featuring
a 10.05 ct. oval untreated
Ruby accented with white
Diamonds (7.18 ctw.) and
Rubies (.22 ctw.).

Honorable Mention
Frederic Sage
Frederic Sage
18K white gold "Modern Deco" cufflinks
featuring seafoam green Tourmalines (4.48
ctw.) and Diamonds (.56 ctw.).
e
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3rd Place
Samuel Getz
Samuel Getz Designs
18K white gold ring
featuring a 43.05 ct.
spherical black Opal
accented with tsavorite
Garnets (2.70 ctw.),
blue Sapphires (2.51
ctw.), Iolites (1.53 ctw.),
Paraiba Tourmalines
(.71 ctw.) and Diamonds
(.63 ctw.).
1st Place
Cynthia Reneé Zava
Cynthia Reneé Zava, Inc.
Palladium necklace
featuring a suite of green
Tourmalines (75.89 ctw.).

2nd Place
Evelyn Clothier
Evelyn Clothier Jewelry
18K yellow gold earrings featuring
Aquamarine briolettes (50.95 ctw.)
accented with Diamonds (9.29 ctw.).


Manufacturing Honors
Laura Jackowski-Dickson
LJD Designs
18K white gold cuff featuring two South
Sea cultured Pearls (14.8mm and 11.3mm)
and four freshwater pink cultured Pearls
accented with Diamonds.

Platinum Honors
Rudi Wobito
Zultanite Gems, LLC
Platinum earrings featuring Zultanite (Diaspore) briolettes
(25.15 ctw.) accented with white Diamonds (0.95 ctw.).
Honorable Mention
Erica Courtney
Erica Courtney
18K yellow gold
earrings featuring
Tanzanites (77.99
ctw.) and Diamonds
(3.38 ctw.).
AGTA PRISM|WINTER 2011
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3rd Place
Ron Lodholz
Stonehaven Jewelry Gallery
18K yellow and rose gold
cufflinks featuring cone-cut
Garnets (10.96 ctw.) with
platinum suspensions.


1st Place
Mark Lauer
Mark Michael Designs
18K yellow gold cufflinks featuring Jasper Agate and
Lapis Lazuli composite accented with 2mm spessartite
Garnets and Sapphires.
2nd Place
Eddie Sakamoto
Schmitt Jewelers
Platinum "Suspense" ring featuring a
14.49 ct. blue star Sapphire accented
with Diamond baguettes (3.60 ctw.).

Honorable Mention
Michael Endlich
Pave Fine Jewelry
22K yellow gold ring
featuring an 8.01 ct.
purple star Sapphire
cabochon.
C
C
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L A S S I C
1st Place
Joseph Ambalu
Amba Gem Corp.
8.04 ct. pigeon blood Ruby.
2nd Place
Sailesh Lakhi
Lakhi Impex, Inc.
43.42 ct. cushion-shape, brilliant/stepcut blue Sapphire, royal blue color.
3rd Place
Allen Kleiman
A. Kleiman & Co.
6.55 ct. cushion-cut pink Sapphire.
Honorable Mention
Gonen Abrahami
ABC Gems
4.93 ct. emerald-cut Emerald.
7 AGTA PRISM|WINTER 2011

Manufacturing Honors
Oliver Smith
Oliver Smith Jeweler
Sterling silver and rose gold ring featuring
Madagascar Ocean Jasper.
e
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e m S t o N e S

Platinum Honors
Alan Friedman
Alan Friedman
Platinum ring with a cushion-cut purple
Spinel (6.62 ct.).
C
U t t I N G
e
D G e
C
o m B I N A t I o N
e
D G e
P
h e N o m e N A L
e
D G e
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A r V I N G S
1st Place
Thomas Trozzo
Trozzo
66.48 ct. square, dimple, concaved,
scissor-cut Aquamarine.
2nd Place
John Dyer
John Dyer & Co.
50.92 ct. trillion custom-cut Morganite.
3rd Place
John Dyer
John Dyer & Co.
9.50 ct. Umbalite Garnet.
C
U t t I N G
1st Place
Robyn Dufty
DuftyWeis Opals, Inc.
36.73 ct. Mexican fire
Opal cabochon.
2nd Place
Allen Kleiman
A. Kleiman & Co.
Pair of oval Alexandrites
(3.25 ctw.).
Top- Daylight
Bottom- Incandescent.
3rd Place
Jeffrey Bilgore
Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC
15.0 ct. oval cat's eye Chrysoberyl.
C
U t t I N G
1st Place
Joseph August Voss
Joseph August Voss
220.30 ct. crystal Quartz carving.
2nd Place
John Dyer
John Dyer & Co.
62.64 ct. "Golden Reflections" Beryl.
3rd Place
Naomi Sarna
Naomi Sarna Designs
Carved white Opal sculpture (149 grams).
AGTA PRISM|WINTER 2011
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1st Place
Ruben Bindra
B & B Fine Gems
9.59 ct. trillion-cut red Spinel.
2nd Place
Ruben Bindra
B & B Fine Gems
32.58 ct. oval-shape tsavorite Garnet.
3rd Place
Ben Kho
Kho International, Inc.
12.91 ct. princess-cut Rhodochrosite.
Honorable Mention
Jeffrey Bilgore
Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC
49.24 ct. Asscher-cut Aquamarine
Honorable Mention
Ben Kho
Kho International, Inc.
15.28 ct. ct. oval-cut Imperial Topaz.
C
U t t I N G
1st Place
Clay Zava
Zava Mastercuts
Suite of pastel Cuprian Tourmalines
(127.40 ctw.).
2nd Place
Allen Kleiman
A. Kleiman & Co.
15-piece round blue Sapphire necklace
layout (68.75 ctw.).
3rd Place
Hemant Phophaliya
AG Color, Inc.
Pair of pear-shaped cabochon
Tanzanites (41.62 ctw.).
Honorable Mention
Darrell Jang
Darrell Jang
Aspen-shaped leaves cut from a 15.09
ct. Peridot and a 11.15 ct. Heliodor.
9 AGTA PRISM|WINTER 2011
& S
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e
D G e
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A C e t I N G
e
D G e
o
B J e C t S
1st Place
Jeff L. White
J.L. White Fine Gemstones
48.83 ct. square, cushion-cut
Morganite.
2nd Place
John Dyer
John Dyer & Co.
14.43 ct. cushion-cut pink Tourmaline.
3rd Place
Ben Kho
Kho International, Inc.
13.78 ct. sunburst-cut Sphalerite.
Honorable Mention
Ben Kho
Kho International, Inc.
50.20 ct. kaleidoscope-cut Kunzite.
C
U t t I N G
1st Place
Gregore Morin
Gregore Joailliers
Kokeshi Princess featuring white
Opal (83.98 ctw.), Basinite (36.29
ctw.), rubellite Tourmalines (2.91
ctw.) and Diamonds (.72 ctw.) with
18K white gold and platinum on a
base of silver, brass and wood.
2nd Place
Llyn L. Strelau
Jewels by Design
Sculpture titled “Who Are You”
featuring two-tone gold and silver
with freshwater baroque Pearls,
South Sea keshi Pearls, akoya seed
Pearls, demantoid Garnets (.25 ctw.),
.20 ct. Ruby and cognac Diamonds
(.03 ctw.) on a crystal Quartz base
(242 ctw.).
o F
3rd Place
Tigran Lementsyan
Repair Restoration Center
“Dandelion” featuring Quartz and
Diamonds (.36 ctw.) with silver, 18K
yellow gold and gold-plated leaves.
A
r t
Honorable Mention
Darryl Alexander
Alexander’s Jewelers
“Got Paint?”- opalized wood with
a sterling frame in a black marble
base. The paint is Sugalite, Mookite,
Turquoise & Onyx, with Quartz
dish & sterling tube with Coral. The
brushes are Onyx, Agate, Hematite,
Quartz and multiple woods.
AGTA PRISM|WINTER 2011
10
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I C h e Y
When
you
think about men and
jewelry it seems like a contradiction in
terms, a worn out oxymoron. Granted the jewelry
industry is lopsided in its customer base. But that doesn’t
mean the two areas, “men” and “jewelry” are mutually exclusive.
Just look at the Men’s Wear division of the AGTA Spectrum Awards™.
There are always amazing pieces that take center stage in the competition.
And if you think about men’s jewelry merchandising categories, it is virtually
the same as women’s - it is everything - rings, bracelets, pendants, pins, cufflinks,
earrings, studs, and of course the proverbial favorite - watches.
This past year the Academy Award style/fashion watchers included men-watching
as one of their categories, naming celebs such as Tim McGraw, Keanu Reeves,
Steve Carell, Matt Damon and Robert Downey, Jr. as jewelry trend setters.
Men’s jewelry is slowly moving away from the traditional watch and
wedding band to more unique, stylish looks being influenced by
sports stars and athletes, celebrities and even bikers. It is a
growing niche market which should not be relegated
to the back showcase in any jewelry store
or gallery.
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One of the reasons for the increased interest in men’s jewelry are
Another winner in 2011 was a platinum, Sapphire and Diamond ring
alternative metals including titanium, steel, anodized aluminum to
by Eddie Sakamoto, showing his signature use of reflective surfaces
gold, silver and platinum. Another reason is the internet. We see
and graceful contemporary sense of design (2). The Schmitt Jewelers
the celebs and male fashionistas who are making it okay for all men
designer placed Second.
to become more fashion conscious. And, AGTA Members gladly
acknowledge that colored gemstones are no longer just for the gals,
Ron Lodholz of Stonehaven Jewelry Gallery in Cary, NC, designed
it is very much a unisex commodity.
a set of cufflinks that have an ingenious framing of platinum
suspension wires criss-crossing under 18K yellow and rose gold with
“The jewelry industry finally discovered the men’s market,” said Pam
cone-shaped Garnets which placed Third in Men’s Wear (3).
Danziger, president of Unity Marketing and author of Shopping: Why
We Love It and How Retailers Can Create the Ultimate Customer
California designer Michael Endlich, owner of Pave Fine Jewelry,
Experience.
turned to an 8.01 ct. purple star Sapphire cabochon for his 22K
yellow gold ring, an Honorable Mention in Men’s Wear for 2011
“Men have traditionally been the biggest purchasers of jewelry,
(4).
while women are the most important consumers of jewelry. That
hasn’t changed in 2006, but what is notable is how strongly the
Beverly Hills jeweler Alan Friedman, returned with another win for
market for men’s jewelry grew. Men’s fine jewelry -- defined as
the AGTA Spectrum Awards™. His cushion-cut purple Spinel
jewelry made from precious or semi-precious stones and/or 10K or
(6.62 ct.) ring in platinum took home the Platinum Honors Award
above gold, sterling silver or platinum -- is no longer a step-child in
(5).
the jewelry business but makes up about 10 percent of the overall
jewelry market,” said Danzinger.
So, whether the male consumer is traditional, classical, cuttingedge, glamorous, contemporary, sophisticated or just having fun
All you have to do is to review the Spectrum Award winners in the
discovering the world of jewelry, there is a huge variety of pieces he
Men’s Division for the last few years to see the wonderfully designed
(or someone purchasing for him) can choose from. Retailers need to
and crafted pieces being created by some of North America’s most
be open to the changes which are occurring and provide interesting
talented jewelry designers.
pieces for this emerging niche market. Colored gemstones and
alternatives metals are being embraced by these self-confident and
In 2011, Mark Lauer of Maple Grove, Minnesota won First Place in
fashion-forward consumers. Remember, if you don’t have inventory
the Men’s Wear division (1). His geometric, yet intricately designed
for these men, your competition probably will.
cufflinks featured Jasper Agate and Lapis Lazuli composite with
accents of 2mm spessartite Garnets and Sapphires. Mark Lauer was
To see the hautest looks, visit www.addmorecolortoyourlife.com
able to capture a sense of architecture by giving us a glimpse at what
lay below the framework.
1.
2.
4.
5.
3.
Featured on the model: 3rd Place, Stonehaven Jewelry Gallery Garnet cufflinks
and Manufacturing Honors, Oliver Smith Jeweler Madagascar Ocean Jasper
ring. Model photographed by Sandro. Jewelry photography by Robert Weldon.
AGTA PRISM|WINTER 2011
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r o F I L e
: L
I K A
B
e h A r
Lika Behar was born in the magnificent city of Istanbul. With roots in ancient Anatolian
civilizations, this former Byzantine capital has evolved into a cosmopolitan metropolis
which juxtaposes sublime historical architectural expressions within a modern skyline.
As such, Istanbul is known as one of the truly great romantic destinations of the world and
is the fundamental source of inspiration for the Lika Behar Collection.
Lika’s family lineage is one of storied gold coin
Jewelry designer Lika Behar’s collections are
dealers; a trade long believed to be the lifeline of the
exquisitely made with 24K gold, oxidized silver,
Mediterranean. When Lika was a child, her father
diamonds and colored gemstones. “I love the way
had a refining operation and dealt estate jewelry in
oxidized silver looks and feels,” said Behar of her
a back alley off of the Grand Bazaar in Turkey. At
attainable and malleable metal. “It also takes on
an early age she was mesmerized by gold and her
a patina that looks old and is fabulous with 24K
father’s scale. Lika Behar learned about re-cutting a
gold-which is my true love,” Behar adds.
gemstone to add value and the value of camaraderie
inspiration from ancient history and the sensibility of
in business.
the modern world, Behar prominently encompasses
With
Istanbul’s historical architecture into her collections.
Behar has an undergraduate degree in Economics
Lika brings a modern sensibility to ancient fine
and an MBA. She worked as a staff economist at a
jewelry making traditions.
major New York bank before moving into the fashion
Mediterranean jewelry making tradition where each
industry. Working as a children’s wear designer and
piece of jewelry is uniquely hand wrought with fine
production consultant for the likes of Donna Karan
precision, yielding luxury and femininity for today’s
and Calvin Klein, Lika learned extensively about
marketing, merchandising and modern design. After
more than two decades in fashion Lika, returned to
her roots and started working with gold.
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Kensington rings (from
top to bottom): sky blue
topaz, sky blue topaz, pink
topaz, white topaz, peridot,
pink topaz, London blue
topaz, citrine, amethyst and
prasiolite.
She uses an ancient
modern woman.
Known for the unusual and whimsical, the designer
marries her signature combination of metals, 24K
Silver and 24K gold
Minerva pendant
featuring a milkey
aquamarine &
diamonds.
Silver and 24K gold
Delilah evil eye
pendant featuring
diamonds and a
London blue topaz.
points from $200 - $14,000. She also offers a
great selection of jewelry in the $1,000 – $2,000
price range. “This price point is attainable for
self purchase,” Behar said. Jewelry is competing
against fashion but according to Behar jewelry is
timeless, unique and forever.
” I am my own biggest consumer.
gold and oxidized silver, into her evil eyes, amulets and
talismans.
Lika confides she has never been without
I am fairly traditional. My
goal is to look classic and to be
comfortable, and exude a timeless
look with a touch of unique. ”
one… or two or three. Her jewelry is simple enough for
everyday wear yet elegant enough to be worn at a formal
party.
The designer loves working with milky aquamarines,
Her typical customer is not necessarily a trendsetter.
since the gemstone posseses the enigma of a moonstone
According to Behar her customers are women that
and embodies her favorite color- blue. The designer also
love art history, travel, culture and enduring quality.
enjoys working with sapphires due to their various colors.
Moreover, they are distinctive.
Behar brings life to the gemstones by adding diamond
accents. “When sourcing gemstones— I prefer to deal
Of course women are self purchasers, but Behar
with AGTA Members,” said Lika Behar. “I decided to
has noticed with her line that women are also
join the AGTA to be supportive of the Association and
buying for other women. “My Charm Collection
the industry; while also being associated with reputable
and the Kensington Collection have been the most
vendors and quality people.”
successful, and women have started collecting
them,” said Behar. The designers stacking bangles
Behar is on the road non-stop. For 2011, she has eight
have also done very well. She believes that the
shows scheduled, in addition to her numerous trunk shows.
ability to mix and match has also played a pivotal
“AGTA GemFair™ has a much more focused buyer, that
role in this collection. In addition, Lika has seen
is looking for unique merchandise,” Behar said. For 2011,
that women are formulating wish lists for their
her new line is a surprise, but she promises to offer her
significant others for that little push.
signature combination of metals with a touch of whimsy.
“I prefer to deal with knowledgeable buyers at the shows,
To learn more about Lika Behar and her designs
but I love to answer questions at the trunk shows.” This
visit her at AGTA GemFair™ Tucson and
gives the designer an opportunity to meet the consumer
and receive direct feedback from them. In addition, it
also allows her to give stores a better understanding of
her product, merchandising and how pieces from the line
work together as well as with what they already own.
www.likabehar.com 
Silver and gold
bangles featuring
diamonds, white
sapphires and keshi
pearls.
Her jewelry can be found primarily in small independent
fine jewelry retailers.
Behar’s jewelry sells for price
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1:59:44 PM
2011 C
o L o r
F
o r e C A S t
By Lorraine DePasque, Contributing Editor
As those who observe the Chinese calendar leap into the New Year—
2011 is “The Year of the Rabbit”—those in the fashion, accessory, and
jewelry industries are also jumping with joy. Why all the excitement?
Color, of course! If ever there was a year all about color, this is it.
And who better to discuss the bright color story of ‘Twenty-Eleven’ than
Leatrice Eiseman, the woman often referred to as “the international color
guru.” In an exclusive interview with AGTA, Eiseman, who’s also Executive
Director of the Pantone Color Institute, talks of the most important colors this
year, also explaining how those top tones will (and should) impact the clothes,
jewelry and other accessories you choose. Here, Eiseman also gives us great

Gumuchian “deco twist” pink sapphire ring.
tips on some of the best “color pairings” for 2011. How can you combine
some of your favorite colored gemstone pieces (some you may already own)
with one of fashion’s “new” colors? It’s not difficult—keep reading . . .
Tickled Pink
To begin, saying that Eiseman is upbeat about pink is an understatement.
Shortly before the NewYear, the Pantone Color Institute named “Honeysuckle”
the official “2011 Color of the Year.” Indeed, it’s an intense hue, she admits,
“dynamic and uplifting, but it’s just what we all need. It’s a reddish-pink—

Alex Sepkus
milky
aquamarine
earrings.
closer to red--and more on the warmer side. Courageous and confident,
it’s also a shade that’s somewhat influenced by Latin American cultures.”
Does age or gender matter? “No. One of the things that’s so perfect
about Honeysuckle is that anyone can wear this color--from teenagers to
someone in their eighties. Men, too. It’s so delightful to finally see that
the gender barriers are down and men, especially those in the younger
generation, no longer look at pink tones as ‘girly.’” She continues:
“Although this dynamic Honeysuckle pink is flattering to all complexions,
if you want to try paler shades of pink, they’re in fashion, too, this year.”
In gems, intense “Honeysuckle-like” pinks jewelry designers seem
to be liking these days include: pink tourmaline, red spinel, rhodolite
garnet, and fancy pink sapphire. The more pastel pinks topping the
list are: kunzite, morganite, rose quartz, and natural pink diamonds.
Turquoise . . . And Other Blues
As many of you fashionistas surely recall, Pantone chose “Turquoise” as its
“2010 Color of the Year.” It begs the question—and one we naturally asked
of Eiseman—with Honeysuckle “in,” does that mean Turquoise is “out”?
“Absolutely not,” she emphasizes. “Just because we named Honeysuckle
this year’s leading color, turquoise is still very, very important. Actually,
it’s such a classic color that it’s never really out. But what I suggest for
2011 is that, for up-to-the-minute style, wear your turquoise jewelry with
Honeysuckle clothing items. It’s such a modern and fresh combination.”

Elizabeth Locke labradorite and blue sapphire pendant.
AGTA PRISM|WINTER 2011
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For 2011, how you mix ‘n match the top colors is key, says Eiseman,
suggesting also layering in some fuchsia gemstone pieces with your
turquoise ones. “Fuchsia is a combination of red and blue, so it’s really
complementary to the blue of turquoise.” So, in the fuchsia spectrum,
consider amethyst, sugilite, fancy purple sapphire and alexandrite.
This year, many of the blues are important, Eiseman tells us, and in gemstone
jewelry, it’s best to experiment with one or two you haven’t tried in the past.
Labradorite, moonstone and blue tourmaline are trending in fashion pieces—
particularly strong these past two years and showing no signs of slowing down.
“You’ll also see some of the more classic blues, too,” says Eiseman, “like
blue sapphire, blue topaz, and my personal blue favorite, aquamarine.” Why

Jane Taylor’s Twinkle Twinkle® Collection amethyst earrings.
her favorite? “Well, it’s my birthstone,” reveals the March-born Eiseman, “so
since I was a young girl, I’ve been collecting aquamarine jewelry. It’s going
to look great layered with a new piece of jewelry with a Honeysuckle-colored
gemstone. No, I haven’t bought it yet, but I’m on a quest for something this year!”

Julia Behrends
“Great Scott
Birthstone Collection”
emerald ring.
Do “Go Green”
This year, green is another essential shade “to show off your
Honeysuckle,” says Eiseman,” but not your standard greens,” she
cautions. “Go with those leaning more toward yellow and olive—and
some almost kind of dirtied-down—dirtied-down in a good way.”
Some great 2011 green gemstones to pop the pinks include: typically yellowygreen periodot, an apple-green chrysoprase, or some shades of Zultanite,
green tourmaline, beryl, chrome diposide, chrysoberyl, jade, prasiolite, the
rare but bright green demantoid garnet, prehnite and aventurine. “Remember,”
says Eiseman, “green has really become somewhat of a neutral, so you’ll
likely to able to wear it with a lot of different things in your wardrobe.”
From Café Au Lait to Chocolate
One of the ultimate neutrals, this year as in others, is brown. “But in 2011, it’s
also an extremely important color,” Eiseman tells us, recommending clothing,
jewelry, and accessories in everything from pale to dark brown—“from café
au lait to chocolate,” she says, adding, “Especially in the high-end, brown
has really become an important presence. It’s so classic and beautiful. Look
at the sable mink coat or the signature Louis Vuitton patterned leather.”
As you combine your Honeysuckle with browns this year, the kaleidoscope
of gems from which to choose is exciting--everything from rutilated quartz
with its yellowish-brown or gold-colored needles, to zircon, smoky quartz,
brown agate, tiger’s-eye, moss agate, and honey-brown chrysoberyl. Also
ask your jeweler to show you some cocoa-colored pearls or the varied
hues of natural rough diamonds as well as champagnes and cognacs.
On a final note, Eiseman says, “Have fun with your colored gemstone jewelry
this year. Mix and match gemstones by stacking rings and bracelets and layering
different necklace lengths. Then, ultimately, whatever you wear, your look will

Sarah Graham’s “Radiolarian Collection”
champagne diamond stackable rings.
be distinctively your own. That’s what choice in color can, and always will, do.”
To see the hautest looks, visit www.addmorecolortoyourlife.com
17 A G T A P R I S M | W I N T E R 2 0 1 1
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