PDF version - American Gem Trade Association

PRISM
Winter 2009
AGTA
Spectrum
Awards™
A Model
P hotographer
T he Woman
Behind the
T rophies
Member Profile:
M ark Schneider
JEWELFOLIO™
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Colombian Emerald
Sri Lankan Sapphire
Burmese Sapphire
Burmese Ruby
Tanzanite
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PR I S M I W I N T E R 2 0 0 9
Letter
Fr o m t h e
When I became President of the AGTA
President
our Members’ businesses survive and im-
in the fall of 2007, we all knew that there
prove, and to grow our organization both
was a management crisis in our Associa-
in numbers and in worldwide recognition.
tion. In the past 1.5 years, the staff and
BJ and I have worked closely together dur-
Board have sailed to a smooth recovery.
ing this past year to guarantee a smooth
Here are the highlights:
transition of leadership and continuance of
1. The Dallas office is producing more
the objectives established by the Board of
Member Benefits and more gemstone
Directors. BJ has shown a total commit-
promotions than ever before.
ment to our Members and the AGTA, and
2. Spectrum was a huge success and
I am sure he will be an outstanding Presi-
received more internet and publication
dent for your Association.
coverage than prior years.
Having said all this, we are going into
look to you and rely on you for your con-
3. Last year AGTA GemFair™ Tucson
one of the most difficult times any of us
tinuing participation in the Association
was the most successful trade show.
has ever faced. This will be a test for many
that is The Authority in Color™.
4. The GTC is performing better than it
of us as businesses as well as for the AGTA
has ever done since its inception.
as an organization. How can we grow
ful 2009 and a successful AGTA Gem-
With Douglas Hucker and Lore Kiefert
while controlling expenses; grow while
Fair™ Tucson! ▲
at the helms of our ships, we are moving
prioritizing our goals and grow while sac-
in a very positive direction. We have all
rifices have to be made? I am confident
worked toward a common goal of making
that we have the team in place to overcome
our Association more meaningful to our
the obstacles before us.
Members and to our industry. As Benjamin
I will enjoy sitting on the Board as
(BJ) Hackman expressed in his letter, we
the Past President, and will be chair-
have many projects in the works to help
ing the Nominations Committee. I will
I wish you all the best. Have a wonder-
Sincerely,
Barbara Lawrence
AGTA President
L e t t e r Fr o m t h e I n c o m i n g P r e s i d e n t
Greetings to my fellow AGTA Members:
the best possible professional Staff and a
For the past 27 years, AGTA has been
most-dedicated Board of Directors at its
in the forefront of the colored gemstone in-
disposal. We’re working diligently to:
dustry. Unfortunately, as everyone is well
1. Grow and sustain AGTA GemFair™
aware, we are experiencing a very difficult
Tucson as the world’s premier colored
financial period in the United States and
gemstone trade show.
the entire world. Hardly any businesses are
2. Improve AGTA GemFair™ Las Ve-
immune to this economic downturn. This
gas in order to attract more buyers from
means that we all have to work harder to
the manufacturing and designer pavil-
maintain our current status at home and
ions to buy from our Members.
abroad.
3. Increase our Membership, particu-
I’ve been involved with the AGTA since
larly Retail Members, by 10% per year.
and service performance.
its inception. With my long association as
4. Remain fiscally sound and respon-
6. Continue improving our Source
a Member and a Board Member over the
sible to our Membership – to spend our
Directory and www.agta.org so that
years, I can say with confidence that our
money wisely and effectively.
they serve as marketing tools in the
Association is extremely fortunate to have
5. Improve the GTC’s turn-around time
2
(continued on page 4)
PRISM|WINTER 2009
Board of Directors
Membership Benefits
The American Gem Trade Association is a not-for-profit Association of
United States and Canadian gemstone professionals dedicated to promoting
awareness and appreciation of natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls.
Founded in 1981, the AGTA has over 1,100 Members representing leading
colored gemstone and cultured pearl wholesalers, retail jewelers, jewelry
manufacturers, designers, colored diamond dealers, estate dealers and
industry professionals.
AGTA Members are proud to uphold the highest ethical standards, agreeing
to the Association’s strict Code of Ethics, Constitution and full disclosure of
gemstone enhancements.
Membership provides you with many exclusive benefits and services:
Pr e siden t
Barbara Lawrence
Boston Gems and Findings, Inc.
Vice Pr e siden t
Robert Bentley
Robert Bentley Company, Inc.
Benjamin Hackman
Intercolor, Inc.
Secr eta r i e s
Betty Sue King
King’s Ransom
Kambiz Sabouri
Gem 2000, Inc.
Tr e a s u r e r
Sampat Poddar
Byrex Gems, Inc.
Members are eligible to exhibit in some of the most important annual events
in the gemstone and jewelry industry, including AGTA GemFair™ Tucson,
AGTA GemFair™ Las Vegas, JA New York and The Instore Show.
Dir ector s
John Bachman
John M. Bachman, Inc.
Members are listed and granted four free listings in the AGTA Source
Directory. This is a powerful tool that gives access to a valuable network of
fellow gemstone professionals. Over 20,000 copies are distributed!
Members receive preferred pricing for services at the AGTA Gemological
Testing Center and on a large variety of marketing materials.
Members stay informed about all the hot topics surrounding our industry and
the AGTA with the quarterly Prism newsletter and weekly ePrism.
Members have access to leading industry programs. These programs include
Bank of America Merchant Services, FedEx Express® Shipping, FedEx
Declared Value, FedEx Kinkos, insurance programs through Association
Health Programs and the Office Depot: Taking Care of Business program.
The professionalism of AGTA Members continues to set them apart from
the competition.▲
Pr ism
is distributed quarterly for American Gem Trade Association Members.
F o r f u r t h e r i n fo r m a t io n o r t o a d ve r t i s e , ple a s e c o nt a c t :
Joshua Garcia
American Gem Trade Association
3030 LBJ Frwy., Ste. 840
800-972-1162
www.agta.org
Dallas, TX 75234
Peter Bazar
Imperial-Deltah, Inc.
Sushil Goyal
Liberty Gems, Inc.
Bill Larson
Pala International, Inc.
Glenn Lehrer
Lehrer Designs, Inc.
Gerry Manning
Manning International, Inc.
Joe Orlando
Stuller, Inc.
Eric Schwotzer
Penn Gem International
Pa s t P r e s i d e n t
Eric Braunwart
Columbia Gem House, Inc.
Chief E x ecuti v e Officer
Douglas K. Hucker
214-742-7334 FAX
www.addmorecolortoyourlife.com
On the Cover:
2009 Spectrum Awards winning morganite earrings by Richard Krementz
Gemstones.
2009 Spectrum Awards winning star rose quartz ring by Jennifer Rabe Morin.
Photographed by Jack Deutsch.
3
PRISM|WINTER 2009
most technologically “friendly” format.
It’s an honor and a privilege for me to
Please feel free to contact me at any
7. Stay up-to-date using the latest avail-
serve as AGTA’s new President. My term
time with your suggestions, questions,
able technology for marketing, not only
begins after the upcoming Tucson show.
criticisms or grievances. ▲
for AGTA as a whole, but, potentially,
I’ll do my very best to insure that AGTA
as an economical marketing option to
meets the challenges that face our trade.
Members who wish to utilize these fa-
As Barbara Lawrence ends her term as
cilities as they become available.
President, she leaves a strengthened As-
To accomplish all of the above and
sociation, having seamlessly wedded the
Benjamin (BJ) Hackman
more, we’ll need your participation and
Board’s directions to the Staff’s adminis-
AGTA Incoming President
active involvement to serve on committees
tration of those directions. I enter my term
and volunteer to serve on future Boards.
having the good fortune to follow Barba-
Please come forward. Help us to reinforce
ra’s highly productive tenure. May I do as
our message that AGTA is The Authority
well as she in forwarding the best interests
in Color™.
of our Association and our trade.
Letter
Fr o m t h e
How many of the Ten Commandants
can you recite?
CEO
participants were more likely to engage in
unethical behavior if they saw that same
I am an avid listener to National Public
behavior in folks they held in high regard
Radio, and I was particularly intrigued by
and less likely to emulate that behavior if
one broadcast last week. Seems the folks
it was evidenced in people for whom they
at Carnegie Mellon University, as a result
had less respect.
of the Bernie Madoff scandal on Wall
The lesson I took from this is that when
Street, decided to conduct a study in just
our clients come to our booths here at
how willing people were to bend the rules
AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, our behavior
(cheat) when faced with the opportunity.
will influence theirs. Our Members are
The study gathered a couple of dozen grad-
held in high regard by the jewelry indus-
uate students in a room and asked them to
try because of our commitment to ethical
answer twenty-five questions, for which
and professional business practices, and
they would be paid for correct answers.
our customers have every right to expect
Long story short, the test was conducted
and receive full and complete disclosure
in such a way that all of the participants
of treatments. If they see AGTA dealers
could clearly see if someone was cheating.
routinely neglecting to disclose on their
Seems that if the cheaters were wearing
invoices or memos, would it be any sur-
Carnegie Mellon sweatshirts, the other
prise that they would be less likely to do so
students (all Carnegie Mellon students)
themselves? Not according to the folks at
were more inclined to cheat, themselves;
Carnegie Mellon.
and if the cheaters were wearing University
Oh, by the way, one more segment of
of Pittsburgh sweatshirts, the rest of the
the Carnegie Mellon study determined that
students were less inclined to cheat. Ap-
when participants were asked, prior to the
parently, the participants held Carnegie
test, if they could recite each of the Ten
Mellon students in higher regard and had
Commandants, regardless of how many of
a fair amount of disdain for those from
the ten they could recite, no one engaged in
Pittsburgh.
cheating. I guess even an oblique reminder
The researchers concluded that the
All the best,
of our ethical commitments ensures greater
4
adherence. Each year, we send out a form
for our Members to sign, in which they
commit to our Code of Ethics. Might be
a good idea if we all took just a short moment and read through them prior to signing the form. The AGTA Code of Ethics is
available online at
http://agta.org/about/ethics.html. ▲
See you all in Tucson!
Douglas K. Hucker
AGTA Chief Executive Officer
PRISM|WINTER 2009
Countless hours of work by the Spectrum
competition comes after the winners are
featuring 158.26 ct. hand-carved natural
Committee Members, judges and AGTA
announced. AGTA hosts a viewing of all
enhanced Turquoise, white Diamonds (3.77
Staff go into making the competition
the entries in New York for members of
ctw.) and demantoid Garnets (.16 ctw.) set in
a reality each year. This year was no
the media and fashion community. One of
18K green and white gold.
exception. Under the guidance of the
the primary goals of the competition is to
Spectrum Awards Committee Chairman,
create excitement and exposure for colored
The Best Use of Color for the competition
Robert Bentley, the competition saw the
gemstones and cultured pearls through the
was the platinum “Kaleidoscope X2” ring
second most entries in its history— quite
media. Working with the New York based
featuring an 85 ct. Crystal surrounding
a feat in these economic times. We were
PR firm Lüp, AGTA was able to attract a
Diamonds (10.13 ctw.), Amethysts (2.50
thrilled to have a committed group of
great cross section of consumer media, trade
ctw.), Aquamarines (1.45 ctw.), fire Opals (.90
diverse judges: Tom Heyman of Oscar
press and stylists from television and film.
ctw.), Topaz (1.10 ctw.), Citrines (4.89 ctw.),
Heyman, Donna Sturm for Verdura,
The media day is gaining a great reputation
Garnets (2.13 ctw.) and Tourmalines (2.85
Claudia Mata from Town & Country
for those seeking out new trends in jewelry
ctw.). It was designed by James W. Currens,
magazine and lapidarist Walter Casaravilla.
design, gemstones and color. From initial
J.W. Currens, Inc., New York, NY. This entry
The judges volunteer their time to spend
reports, it looks like an incredible amount of
also won Fashion Forward Honors.
days locked away with all of the entries
exposure has been generated for the submitted
until they award all the winners. This is
jewelry and gemstones- winners and non-
Currens was also awarded the Best Use of
an intense process that is only made more
winners alike.
Pearls for his platinum and 18K yellow gold
difficult by the outstanding quality of the
individual entries.
Perhaps the most significant part of the
“Celebration” ring featuring a 16mm white
The Best of Show distinction was awarded
South Sea Pearl, a 12.5mm golden South Sea
to Frederic Sage, Frederic Sage, Great Neck,
Pearl, a 14.4mm black Tahitian Pearl and a
NY, for his “Enchanted Stallion” brooch
10.15mm black Tahitian Pearl accented with
Best Use of Color
Best Use of Pearls
J.W. Currens, Inc.
&
Fashion Forward Honors
J.W. Currens, Inc.
5
PRISM|WINTER 2009
white and yellow Diamonds (3.76 ctw.).
A platinum necklace featuring a 112.84 ct.
Aquamarine briolette accented with Diamonds
and Aquamarines (4.79 ctw.) designed by
Erica Courtney, Erica Courtney, Los Angeles,
CA, was awarded the Best Use of Color and
Platinum.
Best of Show
As you will see in the following pages, this
Frederic Sage
year’s winning pieces show innovative design
elements paired with great quality gemstone
and pearl material. The designs are a great
tribute to the passion of each designer and
help generate excitement for our product.
We are looking forward to the next twenty-five
years starting with the 2010 competition this
Fall. So, get your jewelry and gemstones ready
and be on the look-out for the AGTA Spectrum
Awards™ entry information on
wwww.agta.org.▲
Best Use of
Color & Platinum
Erica Courtney, Inc.
6
PRISM|WINTER 2009
Bridal Wear
1st Place
Judy Evans
Richard Krementz Gemstones
Platinum earrings featuring
Morganite briolettes (27.08 ctw.)
accented with Diamonds
(2.35 ctw.).
2nd Place
Evelyn Clothier
Evelyn Clothier Jewelry
3rd Place
Carley McGee-Boehm
Carley Jewels
Manufacturing Honors
Michael Endlich
Pave Fine Jewelry
2nd Place
Erica Courtney
Erica Courtney
3rd Place
Jeffrey Bilgore
Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC
Manufacturing Honors
Richard Krementz Gemstones
Richard Krementz Gemstones
2nd Place
Jennifer Rabe Morin
Jennifer Joailliers
3rd Place
Ashleigh Branstetter
Ashleigh Branstetter, LLC
Honorable Mention
Glen J. Engelbrecht
GJ Designs
Platinum earrings featuring white
donut Agates accented with
Diamonds (4.15 ctw.).
Palladium earrings featuring
cuprian Tourmalines (18.09 ctw.)
accented with black Spinel and
rock crystal Quartz helioliths.
Platinum ring featuring a 2.85 ct.
rainbow Moonstone cabochon
accented with Diamonds (.20 ctw.).
Classical
1st Place
Gregore Morin
Gregore Joailliers
18K white and yellow gold frog
brooch featuring Opals (2.32
ctw.), Moonstones (1.08 ctw.) and
pink Sapphires (.03 ctw.).
Platinum ring featuring a 14.80 ct.
cushion-cut blue-green Tourmaline
accented with Diamonds (.70 ctw.).
18K yellow gold ring featuring a
17.51 ct. Chalcedony cabochon
accented with Turquoise cabochons
(3.10 ctw.) and Diamonds.
Platinum and 18K yellow gold ring
featuring a 5.37 ct. blue Sapphire
accented with Diamonds (1.05
ctw.).
Day Wear
1st Place
Devta Doolan
Devta Doolan Jewelry
24K yellow and 14K rose
gold necklace featuring Jasper
cabochons (630 ctw.).
18K yellow gold ring featuring
a 32.10 ct. pink Tourmaline
cabochon accented with
Diamonds (.58 ctw.).
18K white gold ring featuring
a 38.67 ct. star rose Quartz
cabochon accented with pink
Sapphires (7.19 ctw.) and
Diamonds (1.04 ctw.).
7
18K yellow gold pendant featuring
a drusy Quartz leaf accented with
Diamonds (1.13 ctw.).
Platinum Honors
Erica Courtney
Erica Courtney
Platinum necklace featuring a
112.84 ct. Aquamarine briolette
accented with Diamonds and
Aquamarines (4.79 ctw.).
Honorable Mention
Julie Buckareff
JJ Buckar
Platinum Honors
Aron Suna
Suna Bros. Inc.
Manufacturing Honors
Yehouda Saketkhou
Yael Designs
Platinum Honors
Evelyn Clothier
Evelyn Clothier Jewelry
18K yellow gold cameo featuring
a carved shell accented with white
Diamonds (2.03 ctw.), tsavorite and
spessartite Garnets (1.08 ctw.), pink,
blue and yellow Sapphires (3.08 ctw.)
and Paraiba Tourmalines (.30 ctw.).
Platinum ring featuring a 13mm
black Tahitian Pearl accented with
pave Diamonds.
Platinum ring featuring a 7.74 ct.
antique cushion-cut Topaz accented
with Diamonds (.62 ctw.).
Platinum earrings featuring trianglecut green Tourmalines (13.68 ctw.)
accented with Diamonds (1.50
ctw.).
Evening Wear
1st Place
Frederic Sage
Frederic Sage
3rd Place
Evelyn Clothier
Evelyn Clothier Jewelry
2nd Place
Julie Buckareff
JJ Buckar
“Enchanted Stallion” brooch
featuring 158.26 ct. handcarved natural Turquoise,
white Diamonds (3.77 ctw.)
and demantoid Garnets
(.16 ctw.) set in 18K green
and white gold.
Platinum “Ribbons” ring
featuring an 11.50 ct.
Tanzanite accented with
ideal-cut Diamonds (3.50
ctw.).
Platinum earrings featuring
green Beryl drops (70.86
ctw.) accented with square
and round-cut Tourmalines
(4.23 ctw.) and Diamonds
(.78 ctw.).
Men’s Wear
2nd Place
Robert Pelliccia
J.R. Dunn Jewelers
1st Place
Ricardo Basta
E. Eichberg, Inc.
Platinum and 22K yellow
gold ring featuring a 1.75
ct. emerald-cut Alexandrite
accented with Diamond
baguettes (.69 ctw.).
18K yellow gold and platinum
cufflinks featuring lavender
Chalcedony cabochons
(14.70 ctw.), round yellow
Sapphires (1.57 ctw.), round
Diamonds (0.17 ctw.) and
round Rubies (0.08 ctw.).
Consumer’s Choice Honors
Classical
Richard Krementz
Richard Krementz
Gemstones
Bridal
Khai Le
Charles Koll Jewellers
Platinum ring featuring a 2.71
ct. cushion-cut blue Sapphire
accented with Diamonds
(.15 ctw.)
Platinum ring featuring a 3.44
ct. champagne Diamond
accented with white Diamonds
(1.29 ctw.).
All Other Faceted
Classic Gemstone
Bridal 1st Place
Bridal
3rd Place
Khai Le John M. Bachman Khai Le
Allen Kleiman
CharlesJohn
Koll M.
Jewellers
Charles Koll Jewellers
Bachman, Inc.
A. Kleiman & Co.
Platinum 29.92
ring featuring
a 2.71
Platinum
a 2.71
ct. natural
yellow
ring featuring
9.13 ct.
heart-shaped natural
ct. cushion-cut
blue Sapphire ct. cushion-cut blue
Sapphire
Sapphire.
yellow
Sapphire.
accented with Diamonds
accented with Diamonds
(.15 ctw.)2nd Place
(.15 ctw.)
Joseph Ambalu
Amba Gem Corp.
6.05 ct. emerald-cut natural blue Sapphire.
9
1st Place
Jeffrey Bilgore
Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC
11.44 ct. oval-cut red Spinel.
2nd Place
Joseph Ambalu
Amba Gem Corp.
10.45 ct. natural elbaite Tourmaline.
3rd Place
Joseph Ambalu
Amba Gem Corp.
8.62 ct. oval-cut natural Paraiba
Tourmaline.
Manufacturing Honors
Erica Courtney
Erica Courtney
Honorable Mention
Yehouda Saketkhou
Yael Designs
18K yellow gold earrings
featuring pear-shaped
and antique cushion-cut
Tanzanites (17.56 ctw.).
18K white and yellow gold
ring featuring a 60. ct.
yellow Sapphire accented
with white and yellow
Diamonds (10.0 ctw.).
Mark Schneider
Mark Schneider Design
Platinum ring featuring an
11.54 ct. indicolite Tourmaline
accented with white and
yellow Diamonds (1.58 ctw.).
Palladium ring featuring a
19.68 ct. oval brown Zircon.
22K and 18K yellow gold
cufflinks featuring bi-color
watermelon Tourmaline slices
(30.50 ctw.).
Evening Wear
Dennis deJonghe
deJonghe
Day Wear
Pamela Froman
Pamela Froman
Fine Jewelry
2nd Place
Omi Nagpal
Omi Gems, Inc.
5.98 ct. cushion-cut Alexandrite.
Platinum and 22K yellow
gold ring featuring a 1.75
ct. emerald-cut Alexandrite
accented with Diamond
baguettes (.69 ctw.).
Pairs & Suites
Phenomenal
1st Place
James W. Currens
J.W. Currens, Inc.
34.80 ct. natural boulder Opal fancy cabochon.
Men’s Wear
Robert Pelliccia
J.R. Dunn Jewelers
Platinum pendant featuring a
17.06 ct. Aquamarine accented
with an Iolite and Diamonds
(.13 ctw.) on a strand of
freshwater Pearls.
18K white, rose and green gold
necklace featuring a 10.4mm
golden South Sea Pearl, a bluegrey Tahitian Pearl and a greengrey Tahitian Pearl accented
with Diamonds (.45 ctw.).
Platinum brooch featuring
a .57 ct. brown Diamond
accented with yellow
Diamonds (.52 ctw.), Rubies,
pink and yellow Sapphires
(9.15 ctw.) and white
Diamonds (1.58 ctw.).
Platinum Honors
Manufacturing Honors
Ricardo Basta
E. Eichberg, Inc.
3rd Place
Jack Bigio
Basser & Bigio, LLC
Platinum Honors
Michael daCosta
Fortune’s Fine
Jewellery, Ltd.
3rd Place
Stephen Kotlowski
Zultanite Gems, LLC
80.25 ct. oval Zultanite.
10
1st Place
Allen Kleiman
A. Kleiman & Co.
Pair of cushion-cut Peridot (28.47 ctw.).
3rd Place
Thomas Trozzo
Trozzo
Suite of dimple-cut round Citrines
(46.98 ctw.).
2nd Place
Nandu Nichani
Temple Trading Co.
Pair of silver pear-shaped Moonstones (107.09 ctw.).
Honorable Mention
David Brackna
David A. Brackna, Gemcutter
“Carousel”-cut assembled Opal
inlaid and surrounded by Heliodor
(17.58 ctw.).
PRISM|WINTER 2009
Carving
Faceting
1st Place
Ben Kho
Kho International, Ltd.
15.05 ct. cushion-cut
Rhodochrosite.
3rd Place
Christopher Wolfsberg
K.S. Export, LLC
41.65 ct. modified square-cut
Heliodor.
2nd Place
Shawn Maddox
Jewels From the Woods
19.01 ct. “Celestial Compass”
Peridot.
1st Place
Michael M. Dyber
Michael M. Dyber dba Ledge Art Studio
89.79 ct. carved Aquamarine.
2nd Place
Cheng Ming
Milani Jewelry Co., Ltd.
11. ct. round Citrine.
3rd Place
Darryl Alexander
Alexander’s Jewelers
25.70 ct. “Autumn Forming” Agate
free-form carving.
2nd Place
Glenn Lehrer
Lehrer Designs, Inc.
“Solar Flare” 70.13 ct. carved transparent-orange Brazilian
Opal.
Objects of Art
Combination
1st Place
Larry Woods
Jewels From the Woods
40.47 ct. Lightning Ridge
Opal carving.
3rd Place
John Dyer
John Dyer & Co.
106.84 ct. “Aqua Exuberance”
Aquamarine.
Honorable Mention
John Dyer
John Dyer & Co.
27.12 ct. concave-cut trillion Aquamarine.
11
1st Place
Dalan Hargrave
GemStarz
Executive desk set featuring Lightning Ridge Opal, black Galaxy, black Jade and Quartz (1500 ctw.).
2nd Place
Dalan Hargrave
Juniper Ridge Opal
“Cheese” carving featuring a full variety of Juniper Ridge Opal (2400 ctw.).
3rd Place
R.A. “Art” Guyon
International Gem Mart
“Moods” sculpture of Jasper.
Honorable Mention
Robert Wander
Robert Wander for Winc Creations
Walking stick an 18K yellow
gold flamingo handle featuring
multi-colored Sapphires (95.58 ctw.)
and chocolate Diamonds (1.57 ctw.).
PRISM|WINTER 2009
A
Model
Photographer
In 1977, fresh out of high school,
and resets my visual aesthetics. I try to
of each model. Deutsch likes to feel
Jack Deutsch came to New York from
synthesize some of the ideas that I feel I
comfortable with the models since they
Chicago. His plan was to take a year off
can achieve during the shoot day. I know
will be working under a lot pressure.
before going into medical school. By a
that I need to produce eight or nine shots,
fluke, he quickly began working as an
so I keep my goals realistic, but I still
The AGTA enlisted Deutsch once again
assistant photographer, and he never
strive to make photos that I and others find
to shoot for the 25th Anniversary of the
looked back. At 23, he was working for
really beautiful.”
AGTA Spectrum Awards™. The day gets
Gordon Munro when he received a call
under way early with hair and make-up for
for an assignment from “a friend of a
The secret to Deutsch’s successful cover
the models. The AGTA Staff creates the
friend.” The work was for American
shots is simple. He makes the jewelry the
suites of the winning pieces for Deutsch to
designing pioneer Geoffrey Beene. The
star. “The biggest challenge to shooting
capture. The stylist then brings out racks
fashion designer needed pictures for his
AGTA and jewelry in general is getting a
of clothes to pair with the winning jewels.
runway show. Jack’s photography and
beautiful and interesting photo with action
With roof-top access and different sets,
his innovative ideas launched him into
and dynamism and yet still getting the
the photo shoot gets under way. Moving
a national ad campaign in Vogue, Town
gemstone sharp and clear,” says Deutsch.
at a ferocious pace, the photographer, the
& Country and Harpers Bazaar. Geoffrey
models and the crew seamlessly transition
Beene would remain a client for the next
the sets for the next shot.
20 years.
The day is long, but Deutsch captures nine
Deutsch has done and shot it all: “I’ll
looks that are amazing. So amazing, that
shoot everything as long as it wants to
JCK Magazine, Jewellery Business, Instore
be photographed.” So, when the AGTA
and Modern Jeweler will be featuring
approached him to photograph the
AGTA Spectrum Awards™ model covers
Spectrum Awards in 2003, he agreed.
for the January/February issues.
The cover shots he creates are extremely
important to the Association. They capture
To learn more about Jack Deutsch, visit
the winning jewelry and catapult the
www.jackdeutsch.com. To see some
designs and designers onto the covers
incredible shots that have been featured by
of trade magazines such as Canadian
A little “photocollaging” is necessary to
Jeweller, JCK Magazine, Jewellery
make it work. Jack and his crew gather the
Business, Instore and Modern Jeweler.
elements before the time of the shoot to
This type of exposure is what the Spectrum
anticipate the needs of the AGTA.
Awards is all about!
Model selection is critical for
Preparation for the AGTA Spectrum
photographing jewelry. Deutsch contacts
Awards™ shoot begins months in advance
his favorite bookers and begins to compile
with the initial booking, set design and
a list of models that will be available on
model selection.
the day of the AGTA shoot. He then makes
recommendations and emails links to the
“For the weeks, and particularly the days,
AGTA for review. “We go back and forth
before the AGTA shoot, I look at as many
a few times until I feel comfortable that
beauty photos as possible. The internet
we have a tight selection,” states Deutsch.
is a great tool for this research, but as a
He then sees all the models in person. He
photographer I’m always looking at the
looks for good skin qualities, good hands,
natural world around me – taking a day
pierced ears, a great portfolio and a good
out for a long hike refreshes my vision
attitude. He heavily weighs the attitude
12
top magazines visit, www.agta.org. ▲
PRISM|WINTER 2009
Member Profile:
Mark Schneider
be more true, as this is the only job Mark has had since
high school.
From designs in nature, like one of his most recent and
whimsical entries, a praying mantis, to a delicate ballerina,
Schneider continues to enter the competition annually. According
to Schneider, “It’s a crap shoot.” Having had the opportunity
to serve as a judge, he does have keen insight on the rigorous
judging process, the dynamics of working with industry experts
and the constantly changing chemistry of the judges.
The Southern California artist’s style is influenced by
architecture, furniture, sculpture and nature. He leans towards
organic sweeping designs that are fairly simple but complex
when finished. Schneider’s designs serve multiple purposes:
form, function and a utilization of space. His beautiful gemstone
sculptures exude quality. Schneider does, however, admit to
being guilty of breaking his own rules.
The metal of choice for this talented designer to work in is 900
platinum. Schneider prefers platinum due to it beauty, luxurious
polish, ease with setting gemstones and its lifelong durability.
AGTA Spectrum Awards™ winning designer Mark Schneider
submitted his first piece into the competition in 1994. Since
then, he has won a total of 26 Spectrum Awards. Schneider
A firm believer in allowing the gemstones to “talk to him” before
specializes in contemporary designs that are known for
he creates a design, Schneider’s philosophy of jewelry design is
their simple, clean, fluid lines and his discriminating taste in
to create wearable art. His passion for unusual gemstones is well
colored gemstones.
served by his friendship with several award-winning gemstone
cutters, such as Stephen Avery, Michael Dyber, Steve Walters
When you have won as many times as Schneider, you have to
and Glenn Lehrer. He appreciates their talent for bringing out the
wonder what he does with all of the winning jewelry? Well, the
beauty of the gemstone. This makes for a creative collaboration
designs do get incorporated into his line, but he actually keeps
where he adds his own unique signature to the gemstone to
the original piece. Early on, his wife, Nancy, suggested that
create his distinct design. “I look for gemstones that are most
their daughters, Dana and Julie, each have a winning piece as a
challenging— the ones with fire, intensity, saturation of color —
keepsake. Then, when Mark won again, Nancy mentioned that
and then I look for a different way to set it,” adds the designer.
she needed her own keepsake as well. Moving forward, they
Schneider’s favorite gemstone to work with is tanzanite, due
made an agreement not to sell any winning pieces.
to its beauty and various hues, with his preferred color being a
deep blue. He also enjoys working with organic materials such as
pearls and ammolite.
Mark Schneider grew up as a third generation jeweler. His
father started 63 years ago as a jobber. The company did not
become interested in design and manufacturing until 1975. After
Throughout the design process, Schneider is intimately involved
his father passed away in 1981, Mark took his background in
with every process from the design’s conception to the final
business and art and applied it to his own designs. “I’ve been
touches that make his pieces unique and distinguishable. The
lucky; I have always known what I wanted to do.” This couldn’t
same can be said for his Colors Collection. The gemstones direct
13
PRISM|WINTER 2009
and tweak his imagination to create fashion forward jewelry.
To view some of Mark Schneider’s Spectrum-winning designs,
Schneider explains, “My designs are constantly moving and fit
visit www.agta.org.
into no particular niche.”
To learn more about Schneider and his designs, visit him at AGTA
GemFair™ Tucson and www.markschneiderdesign.com. ▲
Of course, when he is looking for materials, there is only one
place to go— AGTA GemFair™ Tucson. Schneider has been
attending GemFair Tucson as a shopper since 1985. He felt it was
A. Spectrum 2001
a reputable source for color. In 1995, GemFair opened its doors to
Spectrum Division 1
designers; Mark continued to be a shopper, as well as an exhibitor.
Faceted Tahitian Pearl ring with Tsavorite and Opal inlay.
So what advice does an AGTA Spectrum Awards™ winning
B. Spectrum 2003
designer have for rookies? First, develop a distinctive brand and
2nd Place Evening Wear
style. Second, establish a good framework for your business.
Tanzanite ring.
Schneider adds, “Get as much business knowledge as you can—
it is not enough to just be an artist.” Lastly, enter the AGTA
C. Spectrum 2005
Spectrum Awards™! “I owe a lot to the Spectrum Awards — it has
Platinum Honors Business/Day Wear
been a big part of my success,” admits Schneider.
Emerald ring.
“The exposure from winning a
Spectrum Award is worth
$100,000 in advertising!”
—Mark Schneider
A.
D. Spectrum 2006
3rd Place Business/Day Wear
Black drusy Onyx, a rutilated Quartz and Mandarin
Garnet pendant.
B.
C.
14
D.
PRISM|WINTER 2009
Th e Wo m a n B e h i n d t h e
S p e c t r u m Awa r d s Tr o p h i e s
Polly Gessell has been crafting the trophies for the AGTA
At a young age, glass captured the imagination of the artist.
Spectrum Awards™ since its inception in 1984. The trophies
According to Gessell, “The magic still beckons me as I investigate
are awarded to the best jewelry designers in the industry based
and manipulate the glass of my craft. By accepting my carving,
on workmanship, creativity, innovation and excellence. The
texturing, and the subtleties of airbrushing, the flat, lifeless slabs of
same can be said for the woman behind the trophies. Each
glass seem to reveal a heretofore invisible heartbeat.”
year, her creations leave the winners in awe.
By being at that right place at the right time with then-AGTA
Each sand-blasted and carved glass trophy is different. “Sometimes
Executive Director Peggy Willett the relationship with AGTA was
I think I don’t have any designs left in me, and then I wake up and
born. Tons of glass later, the AGTA is still proud to have Polly
there are some more,” reveals Gessell. Inspired by a kaleidoscope,
Gessell create her special glass works of art for the Spectrum
Gessell mimics the facets of a jewel to develop her designs.
Award winners.
The trophy has not changed much over the past 25 years. One year
Gessell’s works are found in private collections throughout the
they were the shade of blue (see trophy at left), but for the most
world. Her restaurant and hotel work is admittedly where her
part they are the same basic configuration. Gessell says, “This is
heart finds its greatest satisfaction because utility transmits to
the most constant thing I have ever done, and it has helped me
art. Her client list includes such luminaries as the restaurants of
to become a better artist.” Her geometric and abstract style is set
Barbara Lazaroff and Wolfgang Puck, Mary Kay Cosmetics, Rolex
forth in sharp, clear-cut lines with great attention to details and is
Corporation, American Airlines, the Four Seasons Hotels and the
evident in all of the trophies created for the Awards.
National Football League’s Houston Texans.
Something new that the winners of this year’s 25th Anniversary
To learn more about Gessell and her designs, visit
competition will notice is that the artist has placed the number 25
www.gessellstudios.net. ▲
somewhere in the design (see trophy at right).
16
PRISM|WINTER 2009
Picturesque Inclusions in Low
Clarity Natural Colored Diamonds
By Marina Epelboym, Susan Paralusz, Hpone-Phyo
Kan-Nyunt, Mark Cirkot and Dr. Lore Kiefert
Commercial quality, natural colored diamonds come in a
variety of shapes and sizes. Diamonds manufactured in thin
slices with flat facets have become increasingly popular in the
past year and are readily available in the jewelry trade today.
The AGTA GTC had the opportunity to examine 25 of these
natural colored diamonds with colors ranging from yellowish
green to yellow, orange, brown, black, gray and near colorless.
Figure 2: Color zoning surrounding a large graphite crystal in
These diamonds are highly included to the naked eye, primarily
a 1.390 ct. bi-color near colorless and brown diamond gives
with fractures and graphite inclusions. Upon examination, we
the appearance of agate chalcedony. Photo: Marina Epelboym,
noted that many of the inclusions were arranged in patterns
©AGTA GTC
and presented picturesque scenes reminiscent of modern art or
landscape agate or wherever your imagination takes you. The
artistic inclusion scenes add to each diamond’s uniqueness.
Several of the diamonds had a face-up, bi-color appearance due
to inclusions and color zoning. A few of the diamonds contained
intricate details that were best appreciated with a microscope. We
hope you enjoy our photo array of these striking diamonds.
Figure 3: A Victorian tapestry patterned from numerous twin
wisps and fissures is found in a 0.27 ct. diamond; it even looks
tea stained. Photo: Hpone-Phyo Kan-Nyunt, ©AGTA GTC
Figure 1: These flat diamonds form part of a group analyzed by
the AGTA GTC for an upcoming study to be presented at the GIT
Conference in March 2009. The carat weights range from
2.944 ct. to 0.276 ct. (Diamonds courtesy of Lakhi Impex Inc.,
New York.) Photo: Hpone-Phyo Kan-Nyunt, ©AGTA GTC
Figure 4: A rose in full bloom formed from a centralized grouping
of iron-stained fissures and particle clouds in a 0.76 ct. orange
17
diamond. Photo: Hpone-Phyo Kan-Nyunt, ©AGTA GTC
PRISM|WINTER 2009
is used to analyze colored diamonds and to determine if the
color is natural or due to artificial irradiation. The AGTA GTC’s
Raman micro-spectroscopy unit is employed to examine colorless
diamonds that are suspected of being decolored by High Pressure
High Temperature (HPHT) treatment. ▲
AGTA Members receive preferred pricing with the AGTA
GTC. For current fees and other lab services, please contact:
AGTA Gemological Testing Center
18 E. 48th St., Ste. 502
New York, NY 10017
Figure 5: Abstract art benefiting from the use of cleavage planes,
212-752-1717 T
fractures and particle clouds formed in this 1.33 ct. irregular-
212-750-0930 F
shaped diamond. Photo: Marina Epelboym, ©AGTA GTC
www.agta-gtc.org
info@agta-gtc.org
New
Members
Firm Members
Kingstone Gem Importers, Ltd. dba / Avente’
Kourosh Khaloyan
Associated Industry
Professionals
NTR Metals, Inc.
Don Giddens
Estate Jewelers
D & E Singer, Inc.
Diana Singer
Figure 6: Numerous fissures with heavy iron staining mix with
twin wisps to create free-form abstract art in a 0.72 ct. color zoned
Introductory Members
near colorless and orange diamond. Photo: Hpone-Phyo Kan-
Coast Jewelry Designs
Heather Stoddard
Nyunt, ©AGTA GTC
Manufacturing Members
Cicici, Inc.
Yan Wang
Danuta, Inc.
Danuta Alyassin
Erica Courtney
Erica Courtney
Evelyn Clothier Jewelry
Evelyn Clothier
Tanita Corporation
Keith Ericson
Yael Designs
Yehouda Saketkhou
Figure 7: A dog at play is fashioned from numerous reflecting
Student Members
Barbara J. Eaton
Celia Mamby
Jimilea Marshall
Jon Lieb
Nancie Townsend
Paul Silagi
Robert M. Ihrig
iron-stained fissures in a 1.07 ct. triangular-shaped diamond.
Photo: Marina Epelboym, ©AGTA GTC
Got diamonds? No problem. The AGTA Gemological Testing
Center can identify the nature of the apparent color, or lack of
color, in a diamond. UV/visible low temperature spectroscopy
18
SOAR ABOVE
THE COMPETITION.
JOIN AGTA TODAY. GET $200.
Membership in the leading colored gemstone and cultured pearl
Association, the AGTA, shows your customers that you are
committed to the highest ethical standards.
Take flight with this offer – see the AGTA Products Booth for more details.
800-972-1162
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Dallas, TX 75234
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