FORMAL WEAR

SPECIAL FEATURE
formal
wear
formal wear cultures
formal wear as
a cultural heritage
— 43 —
Back in the day
formal wear origins
— 46 —
the bespoke coach
Black or white tie?
Stick to etiquette,
gentlemen
— 48 —
autumn-winter
2011-2012 accessories
— 54 —
scabal across the world
an englishman in new york
— 56 —
style tribute
gary cooper: the Democratic prince
— 59 —
international agenda
follow the dress code
— 62 —
formal wear cultures
Formal wear as a
cultural heritage
In our European and North American countries, we all know the traditional white tie and
black tie. But world is wide. Let’s cross the borders and meet particular formal outfits that
reflects local heritages.
S
ome of them are
very well-known
as the Scottish kilt
and the Japanese
kimono. Other
are less popular
outside their native
country. In all
the cases, their precise origins and
the way the are still worn today stay
generally neglected. Follow the guide
and do not hesitate to keep your black
tuxedo home when you visit one of
these countries for a formal event.
The Scottish kilt
That most Scottish of garments, the
kilt, was developed by an Englishman,
Thomas Rawlinson. In 1727 he set up
an iron-smelting furnace in the north
of Scotland with the help of a local
regimental tailor he shortened and
simplified the long plaid cloth that
the local workers wore around their
bodies. In the 19 th century English
landowners in Scotland adoptedthe
outfitin a romantic way, but despite
national rivalries Scots all over the
world proudly wear it as their national
dress. Some wear the kilt as regular
day attire, but more commonly it is
worn as formal dress for weddings,
evening dinners and celebrations.
The pleated skirt, fastened on
the waist with side adjusters, just
hits the knees. The classic formal
accompaniment is a short,singlebreasted, black jacket, a neat
waistcoat, white shirt, black bow tie,
and a sporran, the wallet slung from
a chain at the front of the kilt. Heavy
brogues, thick socks and a skean dhu
(a decorative knife) down the sock
complete thetraditional Highland
outfit. Growing in popularity as an
alternative to the kilt today are trews,
tightmilitary-style trousers without an
outside seam. Whether kilt or trews,
the cloth must be tartan, of course.
The Scottish kilt
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The West African dashiki
The Arabic thawb and besht
The Indian and Pakistanis sherwani
The Japanese kimono
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The Hausa babbanriga
The Arabic thawb and besht
Across the Arabic world a man’s
ankle-length tunic is known by a
variety of names, including thawb, thobe,
dishdash, dishdasha, kandura or suriyah.
It serves the necessary purpose of
giving total coverage to protect against
strong sunlight, while with layered
undergarments it conserves body
moisture and heat. Under the thawb
is worn the sirwaal, long underpants
elasticated at the waist. Traditionally the
gown is made of cotton for the summer
and wool for the colder months. Highquality English and other European
wool cloths are much treasured by
Arab gentlemen. There are regional
differences between the looks of the
gown. The sleeves can be short and
wide, or tapered like a European shirt,
and fastened at the wrist with cuff
links. A small stand collar can offer a
more formal appearance. The placket
can be embroidered. Thawbs in north
Africa sometimes have hoods but more
normally the man would wear a scarfheaddress known as a ghutra, which is
secured to the head with a circle of ropelike cord called an agal. Some people
regard a longer thawb as representing
royalty, status and wealth. Another
symbol of power and affluence is the
besht, a generous thick cloak worn at
night, and the mashlah, a fine lightweight
cloak sometimes bordered with gold and
worn at ceremonial occasions.
The West African dashiki
Dashiki means shirt in the language of
the Yoruba, the most populous ethnic
group of West Africa. A colourful
men’s garment covering the top half
of the body, the dashiki is widely worn
in the region.Typically it is a loosefitting pullover garment, with an
ornate V-shaped collar, and tailored
and embroidered neck and sleeve lines.
In its most formal versions a tailored
dashiki is worn with drawstring pants
called sokoto (named after the Nigerian
city of Sokoto) and a matching cap
called kufi (after the city of Kufi in
Nigeria; the word means crown).
A white dashiki suit is the wedding
outfit for most West African grooms.
The traditional, short-sleeved, thighlength dashiki is preferred by purists,
but the shirtscan be knee-length or
longer. In West Africa, a man’s tribal
affiliation governs his mode of dress.
When wearing African attire to a
formal event, any color is acceptable.
Today, some men prefer to wear
black with gold embroidery, or dark
blue with gold embroidery, to blend
in with the dark western tuxedos.
The most common non-traditional
colours for wedding suits are purple
and lavender (the colour of African
royalty) and blue (representing love,
peace and harmony).Pattern through
print, weave, embroidery and brocade
make the vibrant cotton dashikis very
flamboyant.
The Indian and Pakistanis
sherwani
The long sherwani tunic first appeared
in the 1700s during the British period
of rule and was a fusion of the local
shalwar kameez outfit with the British
frock coat. Originally dress for nobles,
especially Muslims, it was later adopted
by a wider population as a westernised
version of local dress. After its
independence in 1947, it was made
the national dress of Pakistan. In the
west, a short version of the sherwani
became known as the Nehru jacket (see
page 47), after Jawaharlal Nehru, the
prime minister of India from 1947 to
1964. Today most fashionable grooms
in India and Pakistan choose a sherwani
for their bridal outfit. One difference
is that Indians prefer to wear churidars,
or tight-fitting trousers, while their
northern neighbours prefer salwars,
trousers which are wide at the top and
narrow to the ankle. Churidars tend
to be much longer than salwars and
the excess length falls into folds at
the ankle. Collarless or with a small
stand collar, the tailored sherwani,
which drops below the knee, is lavishly
decorated for the groom, particularly
echoing patterns from northern
India. A cloth like raw silk provides
textural interest while like shiny beads,
precious gems, sequins, embroidery
and brocade on the collar, neckline,
front panel and at the cuffs indicate
wealth, status and celebration. A
flamboyant turban usually completes
the stunning outfit.
The Japanese kimono
For most Japanese men the kimono is
a special occasion garment, worn only
at weddings, tea ceremoniesand other
very formal occasions. Professional
sumo wrestlers are often seen in a
kimono because they are expected to
wear traditional costume whenever
appearing in public. The word literally
means an “object to wear” and was
adopted at the turn of the 20 th century
to rename the kosode, a historic
Japanese robe that dates back at least to
the 1700s. Kimonos are open-fronted,
T-shaped, straight-lined, ankle-length
robes. They have attached collars
and sleeves that are wide and long for
women, but shorter for men. Kimonos
always are wrapped from the left over
the right side of body (except when
dressing the dead for burial). The gown
is secured by a sash, which is tied at the
back. Kimonos are typically worn with
traditional Japanese sandals. The main
distinctions between men’s kimono are
in the fabric. Commonly the kimono
is subdued and dark, in black, dark
blues, greens, and browns. Fabrics are
normally matte, although some have a
subtle pattern, and textured fabrics are
common in more casual kimonos. The
most formal style of kimono is plain
black silk with five kamon, or heraldic
devices, on the chest, shoulders and
back. These are usually paired with
white undergarments and accessories.
The Hausa babban riga
The tall and striking Hausa people
of northern Nigeria are Muslim.
Organised into a hierarchical imperial
social order across seven Hausa states,
the males know the importance of
spectacular clothes that reflect wealth,
lofty status, religious devotion and
political power. The most splendid
manifestation of this approach is the
Hausas’ superbly embroidered great
robe, or babban riga, part of an outfit
that comprises of a riga (the outer
robe; a second, less full, gown in
worn beneath), a ceremonial turban,
and embellished leather slippers or
boots. The gowns are made of the
region’s luxury textiles, typically
finely spun cotton or silk woven on
narrowband looms and decorated
with embroidery – in keeping with
Islamic beliefs, the patterns will show
asymmetrical, non-representational
motifs. Reaching from the shoulder
almost to the ground, the vast gowns
are draped over long-sleeved shirts
and embroidered trousers.
Eric Musgrave
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Back in the Day
formal wear origins
Looking to the past is always helpful in a fashion world where trends come and go.
Nothing is more classical than formal wear and this type of clothing should not be
subject to radical change. Nevertheless, history shows how the style was born and its
main evolutions – a classic story that never ends.
English Regency outfits were the birth of formal wear
T
raditional formal wear
has been produced by
some of the world’s best
tailors and dressers
dating back to the
English Regency.
Prior to that time, aristocratic finery
had been largely a peacock affair,
consisting of opulent materials and
elaborate embellishments. Then
menswear underwent a dramatic
revolution during the Georgian
period, when the popularity of the
‘country gentleman’ look emphasized
horsey, practical clothing. Renowned
dandy Beau Brummell perfected
the look around the turn of the
century, combining the understated
colours and materials of the country
squire with the impeccable tailoring
and exquisite finish of the London
gentleman. At the core of Brummell’s
new look was the tailcoat, a long coat
that had originally been cut away in
front for ease of wear when riding
on horseback which soon became
accepted by the aristocracy as the
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new dress coat. Because clothing was
occasion-specific for the leisure class,
different interpretations of the coat
were used for a gentleman’s daytime
and evening wardrobes. Brummell
preferred his evening tailcoats in dark
blue or black and would typically pair
them with a white waistcoat, black
pantaloons or black knee breeches,
white cravat and thin shoes. Other
Regency dandies experimented
with more elaborate versions of this
ensemble, but by the mid-century,
Brummell’s original vision had
become a strict black-and-white dress
code that has been the basis for formal
evening wear ever since. Around
this time, the daytime version of the
tailcoat was replaced by the kneelength frock coat, creating a more
distinct demarcation between evening
dress and the newly coined ‘morning
dress’. Thanks to the unrivalled
dominance of English tailors during
this period, the island’s dress codes
were adopted by nations throughout
the western world.
As the Victorian industrial revolution
unfolded, these dress codes were
adopted by a growing middle class
whose striving towards genteel
respectability led to the rules becoming
increasingly strict. Not surprisingly,
men began to seek a respite from the
practice of dressing like an orchestra
conductor just to eat dinner in their
own homes. Some English squires
began to substitute their tailcoat with a
similarly styled version of the smoking
jacket for less-formal evenings, a trend
that gained legitimacy when adopted by
Queen Victoria’s son Edward, Prince
of Wales. Sartorial legend has it that
American millionaire James Potter then
discovered this comfortable alternative
during a visit to the Prince’s country
estate in 1886 and brought it back to the
exclusive enclave of Tuxedo Park. When
fellow New Yorkers noticed the town’s
residents wearing the novel jacket to
dinner in public, they associated it
with the town’s name, although polite
society generally preferred the British
moniker “dinner jacket”. World War I significantly relaxed
social mores, as wars are wont to do.
One of the consequences was the
“semi-formal” tuxedo’s acceptance
as standard evening wear while the
tailcoat became reserved only for very
formal society affairs such as balls,
elaborate formal dinners and a night
at the opera. Another outcome was
the arrival of the black lounge jacket
(stroller in American English) as a
similar alternative for the morning coat.
Both of these Jazz Age developments
were championed by the twentiethcentury Beau Brummell, a dashing
young Prince of Wales, better known
today as the Duke of Windsor. His
global influence continued into the
Great Depression fostered by advances
in tailoring and textiles that led to the
golden age of menswear. This period
marked the acceptance of midnight
blue evening wear and swank warmweather alternatives such as doublebreasted and white dinner jackets. Its
legacy also included the codification of
the accoutrements for the morning coat,
tailcoat and tuxedo, giving rise to the
‘white tie’ and ‘black tie’ classifications
in the process. Not surprisingly, the
standards set during this remarkable
era have been the benchmarks of
proper formal wear ever since.
The sartorial golden age ended with the
advent of World War II, and a further
decline in dress and social standards.
As the business suit became more
acceptable after dark, many began to
regard the tuxedo as special-occasion
attire rather than de facto evening
wear and the tailcoat consequently
became relegated to mostly ceremonial
occasions. Conversely – and
paradoxically – the semi-formal stroller
failed to catch on and the morning
coat remained standard attire for
© Life
However it was referred to, the new
evening jacket’s popularity grew
during Edward’s reign as king. Also
during this era, the frock coat was
gradually usurped as formal day
wear by the less formal morning coat
(cutaway in American English), a type
of tailcoat invented in the 1850s that
was originally intended for horseback
riding, like its evening counterpart.
Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru (1889-1964)
influenced Indian people to fight for their independence
and also inspired fashionistas with his famous
‘Nehru jacket’
formal daytime functions, at least in
Britain. In the more casually inclined
United States, morning dress became
increasingly viewed as an anachronism.
During the counterculture movement
of the 1960s and 70s, traditional
formal wear approached extinction, as
leisure suits and turtlenecks gained
acceptability and youth were warned
not to trust anyone over 30. The
period’s ‘Peacock Revolution’ assaulted
formal attire with a riot of coloured
and flashy materials, an onslaught of
neo-Edwardian ruffles and frills and a
barrage of mod alternatives such as the
Nehru jacket and ‘formal jumpsuit’.
The election of Conservative leader
Margaret Thatcher in 1979 and
Republican US President Ronald
Reagan in 1980 signalled an end to
this bohemianism, as well as the dawn
of unprecedented consumerism. The
result was a boom in formal wear’s
popularity and styling not seen since
the thirties. American tuxedo sales
skyrocketed as the formal suit returned
to its classic black-and-white roots,
while simultaneously being updated
by fashion designers recently imported
from the world of women’s couture.
In the 1990s, some of these stylists
attempted to completely redefine
black tie with band-collar and black
shirts, long ties and uncovered waists,
looks eagerly adopted by the young
Hollywood glitterati.
The Yuppie-era boom finally came
to an end with the rise of GenX and
the ‘age of whatever’, reinforced
by George W. Bush’s and Gordon
Brown’s protests against white tie
and Barack Obama’s ignorance of, or
ambivalence towards, conventional
black tie. Despite this, formal
fashions remain fairly conservative.
In fact, Tom Ford recently revitalized
the tuxedo with a return to goldenage styling, proving yet again that
when it comes to formal wear there
is no better formula for success than
sticking to classical details.
Peter Marshall
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the bespoke coach
Black or white tie?
Stick to etiquette,
gentlemen
For this special edition dedicated to formal wear, who better than Peter Marshall, creator of the
website Blacktieguide.com, as the Bespoke Coach? For Bespoken, he offers advice and translates
the meanings of formal dress codes, to help our readers shine at special occasions.
B
ooking passage on the inaugural transatlantic
crossing of the Queen Mary 2 seemed like
the perfect excuse to buy a tuxedo. Because
there was very little information available
about proper black tie at that time I decided
to do some field research to make sure
I did not invest in a wardrobe that was
suitable only for a high-school prom. Consequently, I rented
a conservative formal ensemble and headed off to the gala
opening of a Toronto concert hall to see how well my evening
wear would stand up against that the of the black-tie veterans
in attendance. As it turns out, my initial choices held their
own quite nicely. In fact, the only dissimilarity I noticed
was the presence of a satin stripe on the trousers of the
other gentlemen whereas mine were unadorned. However, I
couldn’t help but be struck by how much this minor aesthetic
touch enhanced the outfit’s overall elegance. It was an
important lesson and one that would hit home time and again
as I continued my pre-purchase research: When it comes to
looking your best in formal wear, success in the details.
Invest in made-to-measure
Should you be fortunate enough to attend such an august
occasion, this is not the time to be a spendthrift. Poorly
fitting rental clothes will make you look like a second-rate
magician, while a properly tailored full-dress kit will foster
the impression of landed gentry. This is particularly true for
the tailcoat. Unlike a regular suit jacket which is relatively
forgiving as long as the shoulders fit properly, tailcoats are
a type of body coat which, as the name implies, must fit
the wearer’s torso perfectly in order to lie snugly against
the chest and waist. In the case of the evening tailcoat this
is even more of a challenge because, although it is cut in a
double-breasted style, it is not designed to close in front.
Other distinguishing traits of the coat include fronts cut
away sharply at the waist leading back to the side of the legs,
at which point the garment tapers down to the bottom of
the back skirt which ends just behind the knee. This skirt
is divided by a long center vent creating the illusion of two
tails and inspiring the early nicknames “swallow-tail coat”
and “claw-hammer tailcoat”.
White Tie Etiquette
and Attire
Only wear dark colours
Black has been the norm for evening wear since the 1850s
and midnight blue – a deeper and richer version of black –
has been a correct and striking alternative since the 1920s.
The use of ebony for evening wear not only creates a natural
harmony with its after-dark environment but also provides
a couple of distinct aesthetic advantages. First, it imbues the
wearer with an aura of dominance and power. Second, when
worn with a white shirt and accessories, the juxtaposition
of black’s complete lack of colour against white’s complete
gamut creates the most dramatic contrast possible.
In the 21st century, the most formal civilian dress code is
largely limited to royalty and high society and, even then,
it’s rare. The only times that ‘white tie’ is likely to appear
on an invitation are for prestigious society balls, society
weddings, public dinners and European state dinners
(notably, white-tie weddings are fairly common in Finland,
Norway and Sweden). At this level of formality the rules are
very strict: they don’t call it ‘full dress’ for nothing.
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Bet on silk peaked lapels
Peaked lapels have been standard on the evening tailcoat
‘Poorly fitting rental
clothes will make you
look like a second-rate
magician.’
© Scabal
like formality with a stiff bosom made from plain linen,
plain cotton or cotton piqué (marcella in the UK). This bibshaped layer of fabric is heavily starched to give wearers the
appearance of a firm, flat torso, regardless of their actual
physiques. Traditionally the shirt is tunic style and takes a
detachable wing collar. Whether attached or not, the collar
should be taller than regular shirt collars and should stand
stiffly so as to best frame the wearer’s face. Sleeve cuffs are
barrel style (single cuffs in British English) that fasten with
cufflinks traditionally made of mother-of-pearl to match the
shirt studs.
EVENING TAILCOAT
Jacket and trousers from the Mohair collection by Scabal - reference 702386
Waistcoat from the Festival collection by Scabal - reference 851762
since the turn of the 20th century. Not only are they the
most formal style of suit lapel but their sweeping upward
diagonal lines also create the impression of a powerful
V-shaped torso. They are faced in silk that can be in the
form of smooth satin or ribbed grosgrain. Although the
former is much more common in North America, its shiny,
somewhat theatrical finish is not as popular in Britain,
where the understated look of grosgrain is often preferred.
Match your trousers with your lapel facing
Trousers match the coat fabric and feature two narrow
stripes or one wide stripe of silk along the outseams, either
braided or in the same material used for the lapel facing.
These stripes serve to cover the trouser’s working seams and
lengthen the perceived leg line in a manner reminiscent of
military dress uniforms (and you know what they say about
a man in a uniform). Full-dress trousers must be worn with
suspenders as it is crucial that the waistband maintains its
position relative to the waistcoat. Formal trousers are never
worn with cuffs (turn-ups in British English).
Never underestimate the role of full-dress shirt
Next to the tailcoat, the full-dress shirt is arguably the
most important component in creating white tie’s regal
bearing. The classic full-dress shirt commands a military-
Make it yours
The full-dress waistcoat serves to conceal the bottom of
the shirt’s bosom and the waistband of the trousers. It is
constructed of white piqué and can be single- or doublebreasted but is always cut very low to best reveal the shirt
bosom. Its length is a critical consideration as it must be long
enough to cover the trouser waistband yet not so long as to
extend below the coat fronts. Within these parameters there
is room for extensive variation in shape of the waistcoat’s
revers (lapels) and its bottom edge, making it the sole garment
than may be used to add a personal touch to the otherwise
rigid uniform.
Forget tie, think bow tie
The white full-dress bow tie is made from cotton piqué,
the material of choice since the 1930s. And if pre-tied
neckwear is considered unrefined in a relatively informal
office environment then it can only be viewed as downright
gauche in the context of an ultra-formal social or diplomatic
function. Formal bow ties are meant to be worn outside the
wings of the collar, not tucked behind them.
Wear formal slippers
Black formal pumps (men’s court shoes in British English)
have a pedigree stretching back to the royal courts and grand
ballrooms of Europe. They feature a grosgrain bow on the
vamp that is either pinched or lies completely flat. Lace-up
shoes are equally correct provided they have the same slipperlike silhouette and minimal decoration. Either shoe is most
traditional in patent leather although calfskin is acceptable
provided it is highly polished. For similar reasons as the
pump, the aristocratic pedigree and elegant sheen of silk hose
make them preferable to other types of dress socks.
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black Tie Etiquette
& Attire
Although contemporary society is a highly informal one
with people wearing T-shirts to the office and flip-flops to
church, black-tie affairs still play a role in the social lives of
urbane gentlemen. Some of these affairs are black tie largely
by tradition such as opening nights of major theatrical
productions or designated formal nights on transatlantic
crossings. However, unwritten black-tie occasions are rare
today and vary considerably by city and by social circles.
Instead, organizers are much more likely to specifically state
the dress code on invitations to events that typically include
formal government functions, prestigious charity galas and
formal evening weddings.
Choose the right tuxedo
The classic tuxedo jacket is constructed of the same black
or midnight blue material used by the evening tailcoat.
The original and therefore most formal model is the singlebreasted style that has only one button thereby allowing
the front to be cut in a deep V shape that mimics the
wide shoulders and narrow waist of the ideal male torso.
The double-breasted model originated as a less formal
alternative in the 1930s but is now considered just as
acceptable. Tuxedo jackets without vents are the most
slimming and formal although side vents can be more
practical and comfortable.
© Scabal
Paradoxically, although formal proms, weddings and
cruises are the most common occasions for American to
don tuxedos, they are rarely black-tie events. They regularly
feature tuxedos of every hue, pattern and design while black
tie specifically calls for a grown-up version of the tuxedo.
Only men who adhere to the code’s traditional rules are
able to benefit from its traditional benefits: attractiveness,
equality, chivalry and consideration. Attractiveness because
it enhances a man’s appearance more effectively than any
other tuxedo configuration, equality because it raises all
men to the same level, chivalry because it defers to the
more dramatic and sensuous finery of the female guests and
consideration because it respects the host’s desire to make
the evening truly special.
TUXEDO
Jacket from the Mohair collection by Scabal - reference 702386
year-round alternative since the 1950s although it has never
been particularly popular in Europe. It should be of the
same type of silk as the jacket’s lapel facings. Neither type of
waist covering is necessary when the waist is concealed by a
double-breasted jacket which is worn closed.
Shawl or peaked collar: it’s up to you
The most formal style of lapel is the peaked style imported
from the tailcoat. It has the added benefit of emphasizing
height and shoulder width through its upwards and outward
sweep. The dégagé shawl collar option inspired by the
tuxedo’s smoking jacket predecessor is equally correct.
Either lapel style is dressed in the same choice of facings
as the tailcoat although the satin option is particularly well
suited to the shawl collar. Black-tie trousers are as for full
dress except that they feature only a single stripe.
Wear a double cuff shirt
The tuxedo’s original shirt was also borrowed from full
dress and although this stiff-front, stiff -collar option is still
correct many consider it better suited to white tie. Its wing
collars also tend to push against the jowls of short-necked
men and not everyone likes the way it exposes the bow-tie’s
band. If worn, it is best paired with a peaked-lapel jacket
and a waistcoat for maximum formality. More congruous
with the tuxedo’s suit-like styling is the soft-front turndown
collar formal shirt which came into fashion in the 1930s.
It features a bosom decorated with pleats or piqué, closes
with studs and takes French cuffs (double cuffs in UK). Shirt
studs and cufflinks should harmonize and are most typically
black, gold or mother-of-pearl.
Cover your waist
Black tie’s original waist covering is the low-cut style of
evening waistcoat used by its full-dress progenitor. It is
made either of wool to match the jacket or of silk to match
the lapel facings. The cummerbund has been an accepted
Match your bow tie and your jacket’s collar
The black bow tie should be a self-tie model in silk to
match the jacket’s lapel facings. Its butterfly or batwing
shape is a matter of personal preference. Footwear is the
same as for white tie.
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© Scabal
Peaked lapel tuxedo - fabric from the Mohair collection by Scabal - reference 702386
Under the sun only
Finally, during summer in the American south or at any time
in the tropics it acceptable to wear an off-white dinner jacket
with self-faced lapels and a black cummerbund. All other
details for this warm-weather black-tie alternative are the same
as for standard black tie.
Both Bond and Barack also sported an exposed
waist which is fine provided you have a perfectly flat
stomach, never undo your jacket and never move your
arms from your sides. Under any other circumstances
the shirt waist will peak out and ruin the vertical
emphasis that a suit is supposed to engender.
Modern interpretation
In addition to the classic interpretation of black tie, many
contemporary etiquette authorities allow for a number of
modern variations. Currently the preference is for a pareddown minimalist look. At its most elegant it is epitomized
by the dashing evening ensemble featured so prominently
in the recent James Bond reboot Casino Royale: a trim-fitting
peaked-lapel jacket and traditional bow tie updated with
a fly-front shirt. At its most pedantic, it is a glorified black
business suit typified by President Obama’s two-button,
notched-lapel, single-vented tuxedo that he so frequently
pairs with a four-in-hand tie. The latter interpretation not
only strips the tuxedo of its formality but also of its aesthetic
benefits. In particular, the long tie cuts the exposed front
of the shirt in half negating the dramatic “V” that normally
enhances the wearer’s physique. It also draws the viewer’s
eye down the wearer’s crotch whereas a bow tie serves to
underscore his face, the proper focal point of any good suit.
‘The most formal style
of lapel is the peaked
style imported from the
tailcoat. It has the added
benefit of emphasizing
height and shoulder width
through its upwards and
outward sweep.’
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formal morning dress
etiquette & attire
American or British? Spot the right
tradition
The differences between Bond and Barack’s evening wear
typify a similar contrast between British and American
formal day wear. As weddings in the United States migrated
to late afternoon affairs to allow for evening dinner and
dance receptions Americans began to consider the tuxedo
as standard wedding attire. And since they were content
to wear suits to all other important daytime functions the
concept of formal daytime clothes became unknown among
the general public. Meanwhile, in Britain (and parts of the
Continent) morning and afternoon weddings remain the
norm and so does the corresponding tradition of morning
dress. It is worn by grooms, groomsmen and guests at
formal church weddings as well as for formal daytime events
in the presence of The Queen such as Royal Ascot and
Trooping the Colour. Like the evening dress codes, morning
dress requirements were traditionally implied rather than
stated but even the most conventional etiquette authorities
now acknowledge that the literal route is the safest one.
Sartorially speaking, the Americans dropped the ball on
this one. All-black tailcoat and tuxedo suits may appear
debonair in the dark but they are deathly in daylight as
evidenced by their traditional association with mourning.
Morning dress, on the other hand, utilizes a variety of tones
and patterns and even colors to enliven its appearance while
still maintaining an appropriately formal nature.
© Scabal
Keep it simple
As with evening dress, there are two categories of morning
dress. The most formal and most common type features
a black or sometimes dark gray morning coat (cutaway
in American English) which is a single-breasted tailcoat
that closes with one button beneath which the coat fronts
gradually slope away from each other. It is usually made of
wool but with a herringbone weave to add visual interest.
Like its evening counterpart its skirt typically ends just
behind the knees and features a long center vent, has peaked
lapels (although self-faced) and no waist pockets.
© Scabal
High cut trousers without cuffs
There are a great variety of black, white and gray patterned
trousers acceptable for morning dress but the most formal
and most commonly associated are made of black-striped
dark gray material commonly known as a cashmere design.
As with full-dress, trousers do not have cuffs and should
be cut high enough for their waistband to be covered by a
relatively short waistcoat.
MORNING COAT
Jacket from the Royal collection by Scabal - reference 702631
Trousers from the Festival collection by Scabal - reference 851764
Waistcoat from the Festival collection by Scabal - reference 851762
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Forget stiff-wing collar
The shirt may have a white or pale colored body but the
turndown collar should be white and preferably of the stiff,
detachable type to lend it an air of formality. The bodies do not
have bosoms or stud holes but the sleeves should have French
cuffs. Although technically correct, the stiff-wing collar shirt is
notably old-fashioned and discouraged by most authorities.
Personalize your waistcoat
There is also considerable variety allowed for the waistcoat.
It can be single- or double-breasted and while traditionally
light gray or buff, pale colors are allowed for a more modern,
youthful take.
The right tie on the right collar
With the turndown collar a four-in-hand tie is worn while
a wing collar calls for a dress cravat (dress ascot in American
English). Pale gray or silver woven silk in subtle patterns
such as houndstooth or Macclesfield are most traditional,
especially for groomsmen. Pastel colors are an acceptable
alternative. Like all formal neckwear, the four-in-hand or
dress cravat should be self tied.
Black shoes only
Correct shoes are well-polished black lace-ups either
with capped or plain toes. Black silk or cashmere hose is
traditional but other fine fabric is also acceptable.
Top hats as the smartest option
Finally, top hats are optional unless you are lucky enough to
be invited to the Royal Enclosure at Ascot. Black silk is the
smartest and most formal choice but such models are very
hard to come by these days. Instead, gray felt with a black
band is now the most common option.
Dress Code
Last consideration
So there you have it, a whirlwind tour of men’s formal wear.
There are a myriad of lesser details that may also be of
interest but the ones described here are enough to send the
average man well on his way to assembling a classic formal
wardrobe. Admittedly, sticking to the rules requires some
amount of discipline as most men are used to dress clothes
that allow them to stand out rather than force them to blend
in. Compliance will also require spending some time to
track down the appropriate garments. However, the return
on investment is enormous.
In my case I premiered my classic black-tie kit at the first
formal dinner on the Queen Mary 2’s historic crossing.
With each step I took down the grand staircase of the
majestic dining room I felt as if I was taking a step
further back in time. The ship’s art deco-inspired décor
and historic itinerary certainly helped evoke a yesteryear
elegance but it was the meticulous yet understated detail
of my own wardrobe that elevated the experience from
passively cerebral to poignantly personal. And that sublime
experience has been the same at every formal evening since
then. I highly recommend it.
Peter Marshall
Find many other formal wear tips offered
by Peter Marshall at www.blacktieguide.com
Morning Dress
(semi-formal)
Morning Dress
Black Tie
(Warm Weather)
black lounge /
stroller
morning coat /
Cutaway
white dinner
jacket
Formal or semiformal daytime
weddings.
Formal
daytime weddings,
formal daytime
occasions in the
presence of royalty.
Black Tie
White Tie
tuxedo /
Dinner jacket /
Dinner suit
Evening
tailcoat /
Dress coat
Attire
Occasion
Semi-formal evening weddings,
formal dinners on cruises,
formal opening night galas
at theater or opera.
Formal
evening weddings,
formal balls,
Royal state dinners.
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formal wear accessories
sweet & chic
Loyalty is more valuable than diamonds. Filipino proverb
Ties from the Diamond Chip Collection by Scabal – Diamond Chip fabric is made from
22 carats diamond fragments blended with pure silk and Super 150’s wool
French macarons by Ladurée Paris  |  Grande Champagne Cognac Louis XIII by Remy Martin
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Photographer: Filip Vanzieleghem
Production: Sylvain Gadeyne
Text and concept: Jérôme Stéfanski
Life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re gonna get. English proverb
100 per cent silk cummerbund, bow tie and dress cravat with pin from the Elba Collection by Scabal
Belgian chocolates by Neuhaus  |  Champagne Millesime 1999 Rare by Piper-Heidsieck
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