SAE Project Handbook Market Rabbits Julie Luxon

SAE Project Handbook
Market Rabbits
Julie Luxon
The following pages are a handbook I put together on how to raise market rabbit meat pens,
while it does mention single fryers every now and then, my main focus was the meat pen
project. Everything in this handbook could also apply to the single fryer as well; just ignore the
uniformity parts of the book. If you are raising breeding rabbits this book may not be that
much of a use to you unless you are raising commercial rabbits. The information found in this
book is meant to help you with starting or improving your rabbit projects. By no means do I
insist you use my methods or even take my advice, and encourage everyone to find their own
way of running their projects. These are just the things I have found to work for myself in the
15 years I have raised rabbits and have helped to make my students and their projects
successful.
To give the book credibility I wanted to give a little background on myself.
I have been raising and showing rabbits for many years, Like most I started in 4-H and moved
on through FFA and still manage a rabbitry. My main focus is on Californian and New Zealand
rabbits, while also showing other “fancy” breeds like French Lops and English Spots. While
raising rabbits I have attended and won shows across the state and country.
I currently teach at Firebaugh High School and am the rabbit advisor for my chapter. I have a
very active and involved rabbit group which seems to grow every year. My school recently
built a temperature controlled rabbitry that allows students to have rabbit projects all year
round. Most of my students have focused on meat pens and single fryers, with a few who run
the school rabbitry and are in charge of the rabbits the school owns. These students are also
ARBA members and show at a few shows in California throughout the year.
I hope you find something in this handbook to help you and your students. Thank you for
looking through it and please do not hesitate to email me of you have any questions at
jluxon@fldusd.org
Thank you,
Julie Luxon
Julie Luxon
Handbook Order
Housing
Finding Rabbits
Picking Pens
Feeding
Rabbitry Supplies
Show Day
Showmanship
Common Showmanship Questions
Housing
The first step to starting a market rabbit project is finding somewhere to keep them. While
rabbits are a short term project and often seen as easy or a starter project they can be difficult
to raise if you live in a hot area or they do not have adequate housing.
Cages
Depending on you project size, i.e single fryer or meat pen; you need to find a cage large
enough for your rabbits to move around. A meat pens cage should measure 30 inches by 30
inches. This gives each rabbit room to move around and eat or drink without bothering the
other two.
Rabbits should be housed in wire cages that are raised over the ground. This can be
accomplished in any way you prefer. Most designs include hanging from the ceiling or resting
on stands or even sawhorses. The most important thing is that rabbits are up off their
excrement and urine.
Pen Placement
As an advisor I like to keep my students project at school in our school rabbitry. This gives me
the opportunity to keep a close eye on all of the rabbits and make small adjustments to each
pen as necessary. Rabbits need to be kept in a fairly constant environment, preferably
between 70 and 80 degrees.
If they are kept in a rabbitry a central cooling system and ventilation system should be
installed. This can be anything from fans to water coolers to air conditioners, depending on
your situation. The rabbitry should allow for air flow. This can be accomplished be using doors
and windows.
If your animals are kept at a student’s home they would have the most success keeping them
in a house or garage with the ability to cool them.
Housing
Cage Set Up
Every rabbit pen needs to have a feeder and water source; these should be different from a
breeding rabbit’s equipment as you have more animals being housed together. A meat pen
will need larger feeders to accommodate for all three rabbits eating at the same time and
sharing feed. A feeder for a meat pen should have the width of 9.5 inches to 11.5 inches.
There should also be a mesh screen at the bottom of the feeder to ensure the dust from the
feed falls through and is not inhaled or ingested by the rabbits. Hay racks can also be attached
to the cages to keep any roughage in a stable place where it will be wasted by falling through
the cage floor.
They also need access to more water as there are more fighting to drink. Meat pens will need
to be given fresh, clean water every day. Bottles holding more than 32oz of water should be
used; this gives animals water throughout the day without the worry of them running out.
Bottles can clog easily and rolling balls should be cleared when filling bottles. Bottles need to
be secured to the cage at rabbit mouth level giving them easy access. When it comes to
bottles and water a good rule to follow is: If you won’t drink it, neither will your rabbit.
Finding Rabbits
Just like any other market animal buying your meat pen from the right person it very
important. There are forty-seven breeds of rabbits with only a few being actual commercial
type and good quality to be used as a meat pen. Breeds typically used as meat pens and single
fryers are Californian’s and New Zealand’s.
These breeds are the typical breeds used to make meat pens, but you can use any commercial
type of rabbit you want.
There are breeders all over California and many members can breed their own pens. A few
breeders located in California are:
Contact Name
Number
Location
Katie Luxon
(209) 394-3715 Livingston, Ca
Californian & New Zealand
Patty Traini
(209)765-8042
Californians
Karen Corda
(707) 762-2098 Novato, Ca
Laura Blank
(909) 636-1276 Pear Blossom, Ca Californians
Oakdale, Ca
Commercial Breeds
Californians
Picking Rabbits
Putting together a meat pen is harder than most people think. Not only must you choose the
best quality rabbits, they must also fit together. Meaning they must be uniform. Having one
rabbit with a different body type of flaw that the other two do not will hurt your overall
placing.
When looking for a meat pen you want to focus on meat capacity and breed characteristic. A
great help in this is the American Rabbit Breeders Association Standard of Perfection. This
book outlines what a judge is looking for in not only each breed of rabbit, but also meat pens.
You want to focus on the depth of body a rabbit has and its width of lion.
Depth of Body
Width of Body
When you pick up your rabbits they will be around 40 days old and just being weaned. They
should weigh between 2 and 2.5lbs. Your breeder will probably put the rabbits into pens for
you or will help you before you leave their house. Remember they want you to do well so feel
free to ask them any questions you have before you leave. Your pens should match up by
body type and weight. Having a pen with different weights is difficult to manage and will hurt
you later on as you try to close their weigh gaps. Also make sure you check your rabbits for any
disqualifications they may have, including broken tails or malocclusion.
Feeding
Meat Pens and single fryer rabbits have a very specific weight range they must meet. The
animals MUST weigh between 3 and 5 pounds. Weighing under over these weights will result
in a disqualification for your rabbits and students, making them ineligible to sell their project.
Everyone has their own feeding methods and I urge you to use the method you feel the most
comfortable with. I will give you my method and you can choose to use it or not, it’s up to you.
As mentioned earlier I will pick up my students meat pens around 40 days old, thirty days
before the show day at fair. You want your rabbits to be as close to 70 days as possible,
without going over. Once my student’s choose their rabbits they mark which cage their rabbits
are in and attach a feeding card above the feeder. The card states whose pen is in the cage
and their feed ration. Since each pen will soon be on a different feeding ration and schedule it
helps the kids keep everyone straight.
Feeding
Card
ANA
TAGS:
AL1
AL2
AL3
1 Cup
I feed my rabbits Templeton feed, which I purchase from my rabbit breeder. I do not switch
the feed of my rabbits since a clean switch will cost more money for my students and will take
a while, plus adding more stress to an animal that cannot handle stress well. There are many
kinds of rabbit feed and you should talk to your local feed store and breeder when choosing
feed for your rabbits.
My student’s rabbits are on free feed and fed once a day until they weigh 4.5 pounds. Then
the feed is cut depending on the weight of each pen. The more they weigh, the less they get. I
usually will cut them back to 1 cup for each rabbit and work from there, adding timothy hay if
they extra filler to keep happy.
Setting up a feeding and weighing schedule is very important in keeping your animals healthy
and gaining. All of the animals are fed once a day, after school. They are fed according to what
is on the feeding card and waters are changed and cleaned; I stress keeping clean and fresh
water with my students, because many pens have lost d their water not being good.
To ensure each pen is getting fed correctly I have three sets of measuring cups in the rabbitry
at all times. That way there is no excuse as to why a pen was not fed correctly every day.
The night before fair every student weighs every rabbit and it is recorded. This determines if
the rabbits get feed and water that night. If a pen is over 4.12 lbs. they do not get feed or
water, 4.08 to 4.11 lbs. they can a little feed and below 4.8lbs they can both. This ensures that
all of my student’s pens make weight. In the morning I as we load up for the fair I also have my
kids weigh to double check their weights and adjust as needed.
 A side note: Sometimes you will have a rabbit eating way more or less than the other
two in the pen. A easy to fix this is to move the off weight rabbit to another pen and
allow it to catch up in weight. For a smaller rabbit give it more feed and for a heavier
rabbit cut its feed. Once they have evened out you can resume their feeding schedule.
This allows the rabbit’s time to adjust their weights back to being uniform.
Students
Ear
Tattoos
Mandatory
Weigh Dates
Rabbit Weights
Every fair this
spreadsheet is
posted next to
the scale in the
rabbitry. The
students fill it
out every work
day and track
their projects
growth.
Rabbitry Supplies
In order for your students to have successful projects you need to make sure they have the
right equipment A great place to purchase supplies is KW cages. You can order on-line, phone
at rabbit shows. They are also really good at working with schools and accepting purchase
orders.. Every rabbitry or rabbit advisor should have at least the following equipment:
Standard of Perfection:
This book is published by the American Rabbit Breeders Association and cost around
$20.00. The book outlines the judging guide lines for all 47 breeds of rabbits and meat
pens. It also describes eye colors, body types, disqualifications and any other information
needed to have a successful rabbit project.
Rugs:
Working with rabbits on a smooth surface is bad for them and makes them hard to work
with as they cannot grip the surface with their toes. Carpet squares are the perfect
solution. You can purchase them for around $5 at carpet stores ad some grocery stores.
Most times a carpet store will give you any extra carpet they need to get rid of. The
squares should be 3’x3’ in size.
Grooming Table:
A place to bring your rabbit up so you can work with them at a comfortable level. There
are lots of different designs you can find and choose them. Prices will range from $40$100 depending on what you are looking for. These should be portable so you can take
them with you to shows and groom rabbit before the class.
Carry Cages:
Many people forget they will need a way to transport their rabbits from home to the
show. Taking your home cage is fine, but is very bulky and may get a few strange looks. A
carry cage can be found for around $30 and will make transporting your animals easy.
They have a tray for shavings and a lid top allowing easy access for your rabbit. They
come in all sizes and usually can hold one to four rabbits. Once again your needs justify
which carry cage you get.
Brushes:
Each type of rabbit can use a different type of brush. For meat pen fur a standard wire
brush will be fine. These can be found at local pet stores for around $5.00.
Toe Nail Trimmers:
Once again there are many types of trimmers and you will need to choose the best one
for you. Prices vary depending on the type and quality you buy. Make sure you are
comfortable with the pair you purchase and can use it well.
Certified Scale:
A scale is a must in order to have a successful project. A rabbit’s weight must monitored p
to the ounces. An electric scale or spring scale is acceptable. Just make sure they can read
at least 2 pounds of weight. I would suggest having your scale weight certified by the
county every year to ensure you are recording accurate weights.
Tattoo Kit:
Every rabbitry or advisory should have a tattoo kit. This is how you identify your rabbits
for the fair process. Once again there are many types of tattoo kits can cost anywhere
from $40-100 depending on where you purchase yours. There are two main types in the
industry today. The first is the tattoo pliers. You attach needle letters to the tattoo pliers
and clamp the needles in the rabbit’s ears. This style is fading and every year fewer
people use, but it is still an option. The most popular type now is the tattoo pen. It is very
easy to use and only requires that you know how to write. You simply write the tattoo in
the rabbit’s ear as you would write on paper.
Tattoo Pen
example
Show Day
Every fair is different and can have a stay over show or a one day show. For my school, we
attend a one day show. So this part is geared towards that type of show. Once again this is
what works for me and keeps my students on a routine.
At my school show day starts the day before we go to the fair. I assign each student a carry
cage and they must prep it. Clean them, add new shavings, latch on name cards, and install
their feed cups and water bottle springs. They also pack the rabbit bag and grooming
equipment so in the morning we can leave with much of a hassle.
For my students their day starts early, as I like to be at the show at least an hour prior. They
are to get their rabbits and weigh them, then feed and water them according to their weights.
Everyone is responsible for their own project. If a student does not show up to pack their
animal then they do not go to the fair. Once everyone is packed we go to the fair and set up a
spot to sit for the day.
Try to get a place close to the show table but out of the way of the judges and foot traffic. You
will have to listen closely for when your class is called and being close gives you a good view of
what is going on. Each student must groom and clean their rabbits before they are weighed
and put on the table.
The equipment I take to a fair all fits into a canvas bag and loads easily into the suburban. My
show day list includes: Grooming Table, Rugs, Nail
trimmers, Brush, Standard of Perfection, Baby wipes,
Spray bottle, Water bottles, Feed, Travel cups, chairs,
ice chest with ice bottles and water.
While your students are being judge have them their
watching and paying attention. I have mine write down
what the judge says about their pen and their placing.
Your breeder may want to know what the judge said
about the pens so can improve their animals for next year. I also find that the rabbit judges are
a well of knowledge and usually share a lot when judging at fairs. This is a time to get your
students to hear some great information they may never hear elsewhere.
Showmanship
Showmanship is a part of the rabbit project that not many FFA chapters participate in. Many
advisors shy away from it as it involves an up close and personal style with the judge. You must
be able to handle your rabbit while going through a pattern and explain what you are doing as
you do with. Not to mention the question portion, which happens every single time. Think as
showmanship as a health check of your animals. You are looking over its body to ensure it
does not have any disease, pests or disqualifications.
While rabbit showmanship can be pretty intimidating, there are resources
out there that have step by step guides. There are also numerous score cards
that people use to actually judge showmanship. When I teach my novice kids
I teach them a pattern and we practice it over and over and over. They get
this pattern and what to say in their minds and memorize it, until it is
automatic. The following pages contain the showmanship process
broken down step-by-step.
1. When you walk up to the judge and place your rabbit on the
table make sure the left ear is facing the judge and your
rabbit is set up. If showmanship is one-on-one you will want
to identify yourself to the judge, what chapter you represent
and how long you have been involved in rabbits.
2. Read your rabbit’s tattoo to the judge. Do not use the word, but say each letter
separately. I.E. If your tattoo is TOM say T-O-M.
3. You will check your rabbits ear one at a time for ear cankers
and ear mites. You want to look into the ear and hold it at an
angle the judge can also see. Rub your fingers up and down the ear feeling for any
blemishes. Be sure to do both ears.
4. Check rabbits eyes for pink eye and wall eye. Using two eyes you
want to gently separate the eye lids and move the skin to see the
entire eye. Be careful not to pull to roughly. Be sure to do both
sides.
5. Set your rabbit up again and check it’s back for blemishes by
rubbing your rabbits back in a massage like manner.
6. It is now time to flip your rabbit. You will grasp your ear and neck
skin. Hold it firmly. Reach around the rabbit and place your left
hand on the rabbit’s hindquarters. Then lift up with your right
hand while bring the rabbit hindquarters to you with your left. You
want your rabbit to be lying in front of your body.
7. Check your rabbit’s nose for signs of a cold. Place your hand over the rabbit’s nose and
wipe up away from the teeth. Show the judge your fingertips.
8. Check your rabbit’s teeth for signs of malocclusion. Once more go
over the rabbit’s nose and pull the lips up away from the rabbits face.
Do not push your fingers into the rabbits mouth, it may bite.
9. Check your rabbits front toenails and footpads. Push your thumb into the rabbits foot
pad and extend the toenails. As you inspect them pull the hair away from the nail to
expose them.
10.Straighten the front legs of your rabbit. Make a hook with your
index finger and push your rabbit’s front leg up at the elbow.
Repeat on both front legs.
11.Check your rabbit’s stomach for blemishes by rubbing the stomach
from just above the hind legs all the way up under the chin.
12.Check your rabbit’s hind toenail and footpads. Use same method as front legs.
13.Straighten your rabbit’s hind legs by placing your flat hand under the leg
and push out, causing the leg to straighten.
14.Turn your rabbit to have its hind legs facing the judge. Take your free hand and cup your
rabbit back, lift the rabbit and position it. Never spin or turn your rabbit with its back
touching the carpet.
15.Check your rabbit’s hind feet for sore hocks. Rub your thumb
over the heel of your rabbit’s foot.
16.Check your rabbit’s sex. Take your index and middle finger and
place the tail of your rabbit between them. Place your thumb
above the vent and pull apart gently. If your rabbit is a doe you
will see a slit if it is a buck the penis will protrude. On an older buck you also find
testicales on either side of the vent.
17.Flip your rabbit back over gently and set it up.
18.Turn your rabbit’s hindquarters to the judge and check the tail
for straightness. Place your thumb and index finger on the base
of the tail and pull it out, rubbing along the tail bone.
19.Set your rabbit back up and check its fur for density and texture.
Place your hand on the bottom of your rabbit and push your fur
forward against its natural lay. Then blow into your fur.
20.Set your rabbit up and wait for questions.
Rabbit Showmanship Score Card
Common Showmanship Questions
A huge part of rabbit showmanship is knowledge. On the next few pages you will find
questions I have my novice showmen go over as well as learning their breed standards.
Q: What is the most each rabbit in a pen of fryers can weigh?
A: 5 pounds
Q: Which ear of the rabbit would have an American Rabbit Breeders Association registration
tattoo in it?
A: The right ear
Q:What is the standard of perfection based on?
A: A point system
Q: What forms the basis of the American Rabbit Breeders Association’s judging system?
A: The ARBA Standard of Perfection
Q: How many generations do a pedigree usually record?
A: Three
Q: What is a junior rabbit?
A: A rabbit that is less than 6 months old and under the junior weight limit for the breed
Q: What is a female rabbit called?
A: Doe
Q: What is a male rabbit called?
A: Buck
Q: What are baby rabbits called?
A: Kits
Q: What is the written record of a rabbit’s family called?
A: Pedigree
Q: Where is the loin of a rabbit?
A: Between the ribs and hip.
Q: What is a rabbit’s pelt?
A: The hide of the animal after it is removed from the animal.
Q: Does the usable portion of a pelt include the head, feet, tail, and legs?
A: No
Q: Another way to say a rabbit is “hare-like” is to say it is ______?
A: Racy
Q: Name four fur types that rabbits are grouped into.(4 possible points)
A: Normal, satin, rex, angora, Fly back. Roll Back
Q: What type of fur do most rabbit breeds have?
A: Normal
Q: Which fur contains a long, wool-type fiber that is harvested and used in the manufacture of
clothing?
A: Angora
Q: What is the brightness and brilliance of the fur called?
A: Luster
Q: What is broken coat?
A: Molting or has broken hairs.
Q: What is brindle or brindling?
A: The intermixture of colored hairs
Q: What term is used to describe the feature of fur that, when stroked from the rear towards
the head, quickly returns to its normal position?
A: Fly back
Q: What is rust?
A: A discoloration of the fur, usually on the sides, flanks and feet
Q: T or F? A purebred rabbit is not capable of reproducing itself in type, color, markings, fur,
and other characteristics.
A: False
Q: T or F? A crossbred rabbit results when animals of different breeds are mated.
A: True
Q: T or F? A crossbred rabbit is capable of reproducing itself in type, color, markings, fur and
other characteristics.
A: False
Q: When you mate rabbits, which rabbits’ cage do you mate them in?
A: The buck’s or an empty cage
Q: When a rabbit gives birth, what is it called?
A: Kindle/ kindling
Q: Why should you dry nest boxes in the sunshine after they are washed?
A: Sunlight sterilizes
Q: Should you keep a new rabbit separate from your herd when you bring it home?
A: Yes
Q: Which is easier for a rabbit to withstand, heat or cold?
A: Cold
Q: What serves as a rabbit’s cooling system?
A: Its ears
Q: T or F? A rabbit’s back should be supported while lifting the rabbit.
A: True
Q: Name 2 breeds of rabbits that have “bulldog” heads.
A: Lops(Holland, Mini, French), Dutch; Netherland Dwarfs
Q: Which breed of rabbit has a herring bone pattern?
A: The English Spot
Q: What is a herring bone pattern?
A: The spine or dorsal stripe on an English Spot’s back
Q: Which breed of rabbits have wool?
A: Angora rabbits, Jersey wooly
Q: Name 2 breeds of chinchilla rabbits.
A: Giant, Standard, American
Q: What breed of rabbit has bars and bands?
A: Harlequin
Q: What is the main cause of “sore hocks”?
A: rough cage floor or hereditary
Q: What is another name for malocclusion?
A: Buck teeth, wolf teeth, butting teeth, or pegged teeth
Q: What is an infectious inflammation of the mammary glands called?
A: Mastitis
Q: Name two parasites that rabbits might get.
A: Mange, lice, fleas, worms.
Q: How would you describe a rabbit’s eye which is whitish on the surface, or looks like it has a
milky film over it?
A: Wall eye or Moon eye
Q: What causes mange?
A: Mites
Q: Where would you find a dewclaw on a rabbit?
A: On the inside of the front legs
Q: What is a dewlap?
A: A pendulous fold of loose skin, which hangs from the throat of some rabbits
Q: What is a dewlap?
A: A fold of skin and fur near the doe’s neck (in some breeds) from which she will pull fur to
line the nest for kits.
Q: T or F? Part of “Rabbit showmanship” is checking the front legs for straightness.
A: True
Q: T or F? Rabbits do not have dewclaws.
A: False. There are dewclaws on each of the front feet.
Q: T or F? You should have the hind end of the rabbit facing the judge when showing
straightness of tail.A: True