welcome to iceland

No.3. 2010 May - June
Your Fr ee Copy
YOUR FREE COPY
WELCOME TO ICELAND
Tricky Volcano • Top Gear on Lava • Mythical Mývatn
Paradoxical Painting • Your Guide to Iceland
atlantica
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atlantica
Jane Appleton. Production: Erlingur Páll Ingvarsson. Color production: Páll Kjartansson. Publisher: Benedikt Jóhannesson. Advertising sales: Helga Möller, helgam@heimur.is. Editorial/advertising offices: Borgartún 23. 105 Reykjavík, Iceland, Tel: (+354) 512-7575, Fax: (+354) 561-8646, atlantica@heimur.is, www.icelandreview.com. Printing: Ísafoldarprentsmiðja, Iceland. atlantica
is published in Reykjavík, Iceland, by Iceland Review, a division of Heimur Ltd. Copies of atlantica can be obtained from the publisher at USD 10 per copy (airmail, worldwide). No articles in this
magazine may be reproduced elsewhere in whole or in part without the permission of the publisher.
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Photo on this page by Páll Stefánsson. Chocolate Mountain. Design By Brynhildur Pálsdóttir.
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Welcome to Iceland
A letter from the editor.
42
Lady of the Ring
46
Spring Fever in the City
48
Down on the Farm
56
Warm in a Cold Climate
62
Wool Sweater Reggae
74
The Atlantica Guide to the Best of
Iceland
On the Fly
A popular hiking mountain, the best of Iceland, Top Gear
on lava, new books, fish balls and rhubarb cakes.
Chameleon of Many Colors
Icelanders are crazy fans of the Eurovision Song Contest.
Mica Allan speaks to Hera Björk, this year’s entry
for Iceland.
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Paradoxical Painting
22
Tricky Volcano
Alda Kravec explores the mythical worlds of Thrándur
Thórarinsson, a young artist who paints with an old hand.
Atlantica’s photographer Páll Stefánsson documents
the eruptions at Fimmvörduháls highland ridge and
Eyjafjallajökull glacier with a few words and his amazing
photographs.
32
Keeping House
36
Mythical Mývatn
The Home Economics School in Reykjavík is still going
strong teaching its students how to run a proper household, cooking, cleaning, handicraft and nourishment.
Mica Allan speaks to the headmistress Margrét Sigfúsdóttir.
Lake Mývatn and its surrounding hinterland is a jewel of
nature, legend and history as John Boyce discovered when
writing his article. Photos by Páll Stefánsson.
Jewelry designer Hendrikka Waage has conquered the
fashion world with her voluptuous rings. Now she diverts
her attention to the benefit of children. By Mica Allan.
John Boyce highlights the Reykjavík Arts Festival
on its fortieth anniversary.
Farm holidays in Iceland are gaining popularity as
John Boyce discovered.
Wool fashion for modern Icelanders and visitors alike.
Photos by Páll Stefánsson.
Alda Kravec speaks with Iceland’s only reggae band
Hjálmar who released a best selling album last fall,
recorded in Jamaica.
Your guide to good eating, hot excursions, cool products,
best services and more.
Cover photo by Páll Stefánsson.
C O N T E N T S
a
Editor: Bjarni Brynjólfsson. Deputy and picture editor: Páll Stefánsson. Contributing writers: Alda Kravec, John Boyce, Mica Allan. Deb Smith. Art director: Erlingur Páll Ingvarsson. Proofreader:
ATLANTICA
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Centre Nature/Centre universitaire de Suðurnes
The Nature Centre/University Centre of Suðurnes
Garðvegur 1, Sandgerði (Aéroport/Airport: 6 min,Reykjavík: 40 min)
L’ATTRACTION
DES PÔLES
Une exposition permanente
sur la vie et l’œuvre de
Jean-Baptiste Charcot.
Ouvert/Open LUN-VEN/MON-FRI: 9 –17, SAM-DIM/SAT-SUN: 13-17.
Renseignements/Information: (354) 423 75551.
www.sandgerdi.is
THE FOLK MUSEUM AT SKÓGAR preserves the cultural
heritage of the Rangárvallasýsla and Vestur-Skaftafellssýsla
region, in the form of tools and equipment used at land
and at sea, crafts, old buildings, books, manuscripts and
documents.
Reconstruction of old turf farmhouses has been one of
the principal features of the museum’s work. The pride of
the museum is the Skógar Church, built in the style which
predominated in Iceland from the Middle Ages until the 19th
century.
Iceland was swept into modernity in an amazingly short
time. A new museum, built in 2002, exhibits the development of travel and communication, road building and mechanisation at the beginning of the 20 th century. Visit also the
Skógar Boutique and Skógar Café in the new museum.
EXPOSITION DE LA
FAUNE ISLANDAISE
Les oiseaux migrateurs abondent
dans la région de Sandgerði.
ATTRACTION OF
THE POLES
An exhibition on the life and fate
of the French polar explorer
Jean-Baptiste Charcot.
EXHIBITION OF THE
ICELANDIC FAUNA
The Sandgerði region is
particularly rich in migratory birds.
THE FOLK
MUSEUM
AT SKÓGAR
861 HVOLSVÖLLUR - OPEN DAILY FROM 9:00 TO 18:00
TEL: (+354) 487 8845 FAX (+354) 487 8848. skogasafn@skogasafn.is www.skogasafn.is
{
a
Travel Magazine
Head Office, Advertising:
Welcome to Iceland
I
have flown in paragliders
from steep mountain
ridges, I have downhill
skied at more than 150 km
an hour, climbed hazardous
cliffs in the West Fjords to
collect the eggs of seabirds,
and voyaged through tempest
seas on small boats. Never
have I been filled with the awe
that took hold of me when
Páll Stefánsson, Atlantica’s
photographer, and I drove through the thick and heavy ash
fall that completely darkened the sky on the third day of
the volcanic eruption in Eyjafjallajökull glacier. It was only
for 15 kilometers and the sky was blue on both sides of the
ash blizzard.
It made me humble and quiet. I thought to myself, so
this is what our planet can get up to when it feels like it.
The ash brought international air traffic to a halt all
over Europe, disrupting the lives of millions and causing
huge damage to businesses worldwide. Yet it looked truly
magnificent in the orange and pink glow of the evening
sun, seen only a few kilometers away from the town of
Hvolsvöllur, constantly spewing huge plumes of ash ten
kilometers up into the sky. It was awesome power at play,
an archetypical sight which one could hardly stop watching
in its enormity.
There have been numerous big eruptions in my lifetime
and some have been quite hazardous. There was the
eruption in the Westman Islands when the whole town of
5,000 people had to be evacuated mostly by fishing vessels
which ferried the population to the mainland. I have even
seen the famous volcano Hekla erupt. The volcanic activity
in this country is interwoven with our lives and we greatly
respect its power. We also benefit from it as we heat our
homes and public facilities with geothermal water.
Volcanic eruptions are met with a certain stoicism in
Iceland. We know that this can happen in many places on
the island but we are prepared. I admired how well the
safety plans for the vicinity near the volcano were carried
out and, as the eruption slowed down, how the farmers
reacted—starting to clean up their farms and the fields,
with the help of hundreds of volunteers.
The volcanic ash and the glacial flooding which followed
when the eruption started caused huge damage in the
vicinity. Yet spring will finally arrive and with the combined
effort of man and nature, everything will turn green
again—even making the land more fertile than it was.
Our volcanic activity is part of what attracts the tourists
who come here: the strange crater formations, blowing
geysers, hot springs and scenic ice-crested volcanic
mountains which thankfully lie dormant most of the
time.
As for Eyjafjallajökull’s silver-blue icecap, it will return
to normal one day and become the pride of the vicinity
as it has been for centuries. Earth’s fire will still be boiling
underneath—nature’s strongest elements, fire and ice, at
play.
Enjoy your stay.
Bjarni Brynjólfsson
Editor
Heimur Ltd.
Borgartún 23
IS-105 Reykjavík
Iceland
Tel: (354) 512 7575
Fax: (354) 561 8646
atlantica@heimur.is
helgam@heimur.is
www.icelandreview.com
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ATLANTICA
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Photos BY PÁLL STEFÁNSSON
Touching Sky
t the top of the world! There are few mountains in Iceland that are
more popular for hiking than Mt. Bláhnjúkur in Landmannalaugar,
central south highlands. The short hike up the mountain is an excellent
warm-up for Iceland’s most popular hiking trail, the 50 kilometer long
Laugavegur which starts in Landmannalaugar and ends in Thórsmörk.
The trail goes through mountain passes and crosses unbridged rivers
and will give you the complete highland experience. Most people
complete the journey in three or four days, sleeping in mountain huts
along the trail. Those who have the extra energy after this long hike,
add one more day to hike over Fimmvörduháls ridge, going from
Thórsmörk to Skógar. At Fimmvörduháls, right on the highland rim
above Thórsmörk, you will see the site of the small eruption that started
20 March (p. 22). Bon voyage. PS
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atlantica
Photo by Páll Stefánsson
A
ICELANDI C DESIGN
CINTAMANI.IS
CINTAMANI AUSTURHRAUN 3
CINTAMANI KRINGLAN
CINTAMANI CENTER LAUGAVEGUR 11
210 GARÐABÆ, TEL. 533 3805
103 REYKJAVIK, TEL. 533 3003
101 REYKJAVIK, TEL. 517 8088
on the fly
THE MUFFIN MAN
“I noticed there weren’t that many good muffins you could get
downtown,” says long time foodie Steinar Júlíusson. Famous among
friends for his banana-streusel muffins and with the kreppa busting in
on his graphic design career, Júlíusson exchanged the Mac for a whisk
and decided to do something about the alarming 101 muffin situation.
His Meistaramúffur (‘Champion Muffins’) come in two flavors: Nutty
Banana and Vegan Blueberry. As for the secret recipe, Atlantica has not
persuaded Júlíusson to reveal it yet, but rest assured we are working on
it. His muffins are available at Karamba on Laugavegur and Kaffifélagid
on Skólavördustígur. For craving emergencies and parties contact
meistaramuffur@gmail.com.
THE WILD NIGHT OUT
For a night out in Reykjavík, Bakkus is your place. Less pretentious
than your usual it-bar, Bakkus is just plain fun. “It’s a bar for drinking,
dancing and having a good time, definitely something this country has
needed,” says bartender Nick “Fish” Fishleigh, “It is cool and edgy but
without the pretence—anyone can come.” You don’t have to scream
hip to get in, even if the regulars do make up a good proportion of
Reykjavík’s in-crowd. There is foosball, pinball and a photo booth,
alongside weekly film screenings and live music. Look out too for
the touch of artist-du-jour Davíd Örn Halldórsson, the tables and bar
backdrop were all painted by him. Be warned though, Bakkus serves
as one of the late night venues in town, closing its doors when the first
tour buses are already heading out of town. Tryggvagata 22.
Photo Brynjar Gunnarsson / SKARA
THE BEDROOM PROCESSIONS
With names like Ísafold Chamber Orchestra, Icelandic Opera, Iceland
Symphony Orchestra, London Sinfonietta, Sigur Rós, Amiina and
Hjaltalín on a long list of past collaborators, and sounds from
Stravinsky to David Bowie, Chet Baker to Michael Jackson on his record
player, the music of composer and conductor Daniel Bjarnason, 30,
has a range as vast as the Icelandic wilderness. His recently published
debut album, the modern classical Processions on the local Bedroom
Community Label, has garnered raving reviews from the critics, and
for good reason—it is intense, dramatic and beautiful. Icelandic rock
has long since made itself world famous, perhaps Bjarnason is the
Björk of classical music? danielbjarnason.com
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The Frozen Trove
Downtown Reykjavíker Sari Peltonen collects the unusual, entertaining and hip from the green pastures of Icelandic culture.
E-ASY LIVING
“A woman has to be a great lover, a kitchen
goddess, a mother and successful at work,”
says E-label’s Ásta Kristjánsdóttir. E-Label
clothes are her answer to the demands
of the modern woman’s life. Starting as
a few prints for the staff and friends of
Kristjánsdóttir’s Model Agency Eskimo, the
label was established as a start up company
in 2007. The current line hangs on the rails
of Topshop in London, and the follow
up was just introduced at the Reykjavík
Fashion Festival catwalk. For the first time
in the label’s all black history, there is color
in the new line. The clothing is produced
in India, where E-label also works with the
Saathi Girls Project, a development project
in Mumbai for homeless girls, to which the
label donates 3 percent of its annual net
profit. e-label.is
Hit Parade
SNORRI’S SWIMMING POOL
What else would one of the earliest manmade constructions in Iceland be than a
swimming pool? Saga author, historian, politician and chieftain Snorri Sturluson
(1179-1241) took his morning dip in Snorralaug, located 100 kilometers from
Reykjavík. All that remains of the farm Sturluson lived on is the cellar tunnel leading to the Snorralaug pool, but in its place stands the Snorrastofa cultural centre,
well worth a visit in its own right. If you do fancy a dip though, consider another
location—the water in Snorralaug, from the nearby hot spring Skrifla, is at times
downright scalding and swimming in the historical spot is not encouraged. Plus
with 120,000 visitors stopping for a photo op each year, your plunge might be
captured for posterity in all its glory. snorrastofa.is
The humorist Hugleikur Dagsson is known for simple strips
with stick figures and brutally funny messages. The titles of
his past works tell the tale: Is This Some Kind Of A Joke, Should
You Be Laughing At This? and Is This Supposed To Be Funny?
With previous collections garnering the author a notorious
reputation—in Ireland there was public demand to ban his
first book altogether—in his brand new book Dagsson lays
into the topic of pop music. Popular Hits features over 60
of Dagsson’s hilarious illustrations of the pop music classics
of our time. Celine Dion’s Titanic hit ‘My heart will go on’
translates to organ donation, Michael Jackson’s ‘Beat It’ to
new methods in child care. Terribly, horribly funny!
dagsson.com
ATLANTICA
7
on the fly
Volcanic Top Gear
By Bjarni Brynjólfsson
W
ant to see how to drive over glaciers and burning hot lava in super jeeps?
Watch out for the ‘Volcano Episode’ of TV show Top Gear scheduled to be
aired sometime this summer. Jeremy Clarkson and his bunch at Top Gear visited
Iceland when the eruption at Fimmvörduháls was at its peak. They drove over the
Mýrdalsjökull glacier on one of their favorite vehicles, a Toyota Hi-Lux super jeep,
altered for glacier tours by Icelandic car dealer Arctic Trucks which has collaborated with the show on numerous occasions, including their North Pole excursion.
Top Gear even invited one of Iceland’s most renowned volcanologists, Haraldur
Sigurdsson, to join them on the tour. Sigurdsson has studied volcanoes all over
the world and runs the Volcano Museum in his hometown of Stykkishólmur in
Snaefellsnes peninsula.
Highlight of the tour was when Clarkson drove the Toyota pick-up truck into
the glowing lava, setting the front tires on fire. No harm done, the fire was put out
immediately and the 38-inch tires were in good shape afterwards.
However the stunt stirred some emotions with the sensitive Ministry of
Environment in Iceland which has been running a campaign to prevent super jeep
owners and tourists driving off road. Such practice is far from welcome in Iceland
because it leaves marks on the delicate barren landscape in the highlands.
We forgive Top Gear as their tire marks were soon replaced by streaming lava,
ash and other good stuff from the belly of Mother Earth. a
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atlantica
S K IS SA
... for all conditions
ICEWEAR clothes and products are available at the following stores:
REYKJAVÍK:
Handprjónasambandið,
Laugavegur 64
The Viking, Hafnarstræti 3
The Viking, Laugavegur 1
Islandia, Kringlan
Icefin, Nóatún 17
Ull og Gjafavörur, Hótel Saga
Ísey, Laugavegur 23
Hitt hornið, Laugavegur 100
Álafoss, Mosfellsbær
OTHER LOCATIONS:
The Viking, Hafnarstræti 104, Akureyri
Sport og útivist, Á stéttinni, Húsavík
Selið, Mývatn
Mývatnsmarkaður, Mývatn
Gullfosskaffi, Gullfoss
Geysir Shop, Haukadal
Byggðasafnið, Skógar
Víkwool, Vík í Mýrdal
Drífa ehf, Suðurhraun 12 C, 210 Garðabær, Sími 555 7400, Fax. 555 7401, icewear@icewear.is, www.icewear.is
onthe
theFly
fly
On
Books
Compiled by Páll Stefánsson and
Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir.
Screaming Nature
Iceland—So Quiet is a new book by photographer Kristján Ingi
Einarsson, with text by Ari Trausti Gudmundsson. Iceland—So Quiet
is the second photography book by Einarsson after his best seller,
The Essence of Iceland, published last year. Iceland—So Quiet is kind
of a ‘best of Iceland’ as all the top tourist spots are included. The
photographer does not try to make art; the places are simply shown
as they are, nothing less, nothing more. The small format of the book
makes it the perfect souvenir, after visiting all fifty-three places in the
book. His favorite part of the country must be Snaefellsnes peninsula
which gets seven photographs in the book, his least favorite, North
West Iceland as there is not a single photograph from Húnavatnssýsla
district. Einarsson’s focus, in his own words, is on the unspoiled and
unassuming tranquility of Iceland’s landscape. In that he has done a
good job. PS
Subtle Excellence
When I first heard of Christina Sunley’s debut The Tricking of Freya I
thought it would be some wishy-washy mystical tale loosely based on
Norse mythology, Icelandic sagas and unrealistic stereotypes of Vikings.
However, I quickly realized that this is a completely different kind of book
and found myself pleasantly surprised.
The main protagonist, Freya, is an American girl whose grandparents
migrated from Iceland to North America. Freya grows up with her oldfashioned and sensible mother in a quiet suburb in Connecticut and
spends her summers with her grandmother and aunt in Gimli, New
Iceland, Canada, where she learns all about the home country.
The Tricking of Freya is primarily a story of broken relationships and
family secrets. It is also a story of the conflict immigrant families often
experience between preserving their roots and cultural heritage and
adapting to their new home. As such, the stage could have been set
within any immigrant community but Sunley chose her own, spicing it up
with references to Norse mythology and Icelandic sagas without making
those factors dominant. ESA
A new book by photographer Vigfús Birgisson, 22 Places You Absolutely
Must See in Iceland, is a grand journey to the places you must not
miss when traveling in Iceland. The text by Jonas Moody adds flavor
and history to the special places photographed. This first book by
Birgisson is visually strong and takes you on a grand tour around
Iceland. It is always difficult to make the perfect list, but here they do
it successfully. This is Icelandic nature at full force but there are no
images from Reykjavík or the small fishing villages on the coastline.
My favorite is a photograph of Ásbyrgi. PS
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atlantica
Photos by Páll Stefánsson
Catch 22
Training DVD
by master trainer
Benedikt Líndal.
Languages: Icelandic,
English, German
and Swedish
Harmony
A beautiful book by
master trainer
Benedikt Líndal
combining education,
pure feeling and
stunning pictures.
Hrímnir X-change
Exchangeable gullet, change
the width of the saddle
yourself.
Impact
jodhpurs.
Great fit for both
ladies and men
on the fly
The Good Food
By Deb Smith
A
s my son Conor toured the Settlement
Exhibition in downtown Reykjavík, I leafed
through Icelandic cookbooks in the shops. I purchased Nanna Rögnvaldardóttir’s Cool Dishes:
Traditional Icelandic Cuisine, a tiny hardcover gem,
written in English, that offers a satisfying tour of
everyday Icelandic food. The book includes food
difficult to find outside Iceland (smoked lamb, for
instance) but plenty that I could cook at home,
along with beautiful color photographs for most
recipes.
At the supermarkets in Mosfellsbaer and the
capital, Conor and I gazed longingly into freezer
chests at vast bags of fiskibollur (fish balls) and
whole sides of frozen Icelandic mountain lamb.
If I could only take a bag of fish balls home to
America, or wrap a side of lamb in newsprint, zip
it into my backpack and carry it on board! But with
our luck someone would use a rump roast to hijack
a plane before we left Iceland, and frozen fiskibollur
would be banned as deadly weapons. We sighed
and walked off to buy canned mixed vegetables
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atlantica
with rutabaga (something else you don’t see in
America) and more flavors of skyr than I could eat
at one sitting.
Sitting in front of my computer, the Iceland
Review Online multimedia cookery presentations
hold my rapt attention, and now with my new
book I could start my Icelandic cook-and-bake
adventures. Back home in my American kitchen,
the challenge was irresistible.
After opening Cool Dishes and firing up my laptop to watch the Iceland Review video, I cooked
cod to make fiskibollur. About the size of oblong
jawbreakers, I fried enough tasty little fish balls for
a small crowd. Luckily fiskibollur freeze well and
became a quick dinner solution for the three of us.
A dozen or so frozen fiskibollur popped on a plate
can be microwaved for about a minute, divided
evenly among the diners, then served with potatoes and a green salad. Life is good.
Eventually spring arrived where I live and rhubarb
grew. My husband likes rhubarb crumble as dessert. But just thinking about the copious amounts
Photo by Páll Stefánsson
A good cookbook is a great travel memento. But it’s also a
challenge: can I really bake-boil-grill-sauté-or-roast the
local cuisine like someone who lives there? Why not?
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
anton&bergur
K
www.bluelagoon.com
Photo by Páll Stefánsson
on the fly
The elegant Vínarterta (Vienna Cake) also called
randalín (the striped lady).
of sugar in rhubarb crumble made my teeth ache.
There’s a recipe in Cool Dishes for rabarbarasulta,
rhubarb jam. Far less sugar is eaten with jam on
toast than a bowlful of dessert, right?
When I decided to make jam, I noticed the
Icelandic recipes were all metric measures.
Converting from metric to ounces isn’t hard, but
try explaining to an American farmer you’d like
1,500 grams of their red rhubarb! At our Farmer’s
Market I pointed to the largest bunch and hoped
for the best. Later, I weighed the cut-up stalks on
my kitchen scale. Combined with a little Internet
searching, I developed the quick conversion chart
below:
Metric
500 g
1000 g (1 kg)
1500 g
190˚ Centigrade
Standard
1.1 lbs
2.2 lbs
3.3 lbs
375˚ Fahrenheit
From here I could go anywhere.
Rhubarb is a vegetable full of natural pectin and
grows well in Iceland. Combining only sugar and
chopped rhubarb in a bowl for a few hours produced a juicy pink mixture. Without added water
I brought the mix slowly to a boil, simmering until
it became a thick, delightfully gloppy, glossy jam.
A tart-sweet rhubarb aroma filled my kitchen. It
filled six jam jars too, processed for 10 minutes in
a water-bath canner. On buttered toast, rhubarb
jam is magical: my husband thought he’d died and
gone to heaven.
On the page across from rabarbarasulta in Cool
Dishes was a recipe for Vínarterta (Vienna cake),
a butter based dough. Was this the ‘Icelandic Pop
Tarts’ we saw in a Reykjavík bakery? Alas, Internet
research showed me Vínarterta is usually made in
rounds, sandwiched together with jam, stacked six
tall, then eaten as a cake. But the batter was easy to
cut into small rounds, bake and sandwich with rhubarb jam. A little light pink icing and pastel sugar
strands frosted the cookies. Not the ‘Icelandic Pop
You can find traditional Icelandic recipes at Iceland Review online icelandreview.com.
14
atlantica
Tarts’ I’d seen, but close...and scrumptious. They
quickly disappeared.
On it went: I made my own skyr (another whole
story) but I’m still searching for a good recipe.
It would be fun to make Icelandic leaf bread,
laufabraud—but in Iceland, where someone could
teach me to make it.
Finally my brother-in-law offered me several
packets of venison from his recent hunting trip.
Of course whitetail deer are not reindeer (Bambi is
not Rudolph the Red-Nosed One) but this venison
created something savory and Icelandic for dinner.
My niece came to join us for hreindýrasteik med
raudvínssósu, reindeer steaks with red wine sauce.
Can I cook like an Icelander? Not exactly, but I’m
getting better at it.
So here’s a message for all Icelanders: be proud
of your traditional dishes. Remember you have me
too, inviting the rest of the world to savor everyday
Icelandic cuisine—one fiskibollur, one jar of rhubarb jam, one Vínarterta cake and one deer steak
in red wine sauce at a time. a
ICELAND REVIEW VOLUME 48 APRIL SPRING 2010
desIgned by women foR women
Iceland
Review
JÓNSI ON THE GO
Jónsi from Sigur Rós goes solo.
LUMPSUCKER SPRING
WALK ON THE WILD SIDE
MAMMA GO GO
THE UNPROMISING BALLERINA
A NEW SHOW
ON EARTH
EXPLODED
ISK 899
USD 7.50
DKK 89
0
56698
ICeLAndIC desIgn
48.01 2010
22639
THE SPECTACULAR ERUPTION
IN FIMMVÖRDUHÁLS – 24 PAGES
0
0103
2010
ICELAND REVIEW
HAVE A GREAT FISH DAY
VOLUME 47
47.03 2009
THE MAN OF A MILLION TREES
CREATIVE CUT
WILD AT HEART
THE ALUMINUM LADY
Laugavegur 1 • 101 Reykjavík • Iceland
Tel: +354 511 0991
www.elm.is • elm@elm.is
ISSUE 3
OCTOBER FALL 2009
SEEDS OF CHANGE
ISK 899
USD 7.50
DKK 89
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THE BIG
SWITCH
22639
HOW ICELAND CAN BECOME
GREEN AND ORGANIC
0
03
2009
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By Mica Allan
The Eurovision Song Contest is a grand festival in
Iceland. Atlantica traces the national history of the
contest and meets with Hera Björk, Iceland’s
entry for this year’s extravaganza.
16
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T
here’s an annual event in Iceland that can
best be described as New Year’s Eve in the
spring. Everyone is caught up in a flurry
of excitement. People plan parties around it, the
requisite food is organized with chips and dips
and long lines can be found at the state run liquor
store, Vínbúd, with everyone stocking up. What’s
more, everyone has an opinion about this event
and it’s guaranteed to get everyone in Iceland
talking. I am, of course, speaking of the Eurovision
Song Contest. And yes, it’s that time of year again,
as the contest draws nearer, this time hosted by
Oslo, Norway.
Since 1986, Iceland has taken part twentyone times in this musical extravaganza that puts
fashion front and centre almost as much as the
music, be it ballads, rock and roll, classical or just
plain wacky. The first Icelandic entry to grace the
Eurovision stage was the trio Icy whose smart,
shoulder-padded uniforms made them resemble
staff on a cruise ship. Their upbeat song ‘The Bank
of Joy’ contained the message that you shouldn’t
take out more than you put into the bank of joy.
Wise words in recent times, perhaps, especially
given the world economic climate.
However, arguably one of the most popular
Icelandic Eurovision entries of all time is ‘A Dream
about Nina,’ performed by Stebbi and Eyvi (Stefán
Hilmarsson and Eyjólfur Kristjánsson) in 1991,
looking like a then more modern day version of
Teddy Boys in their bold, jewel colored jackets. This
was more of a ballad and although it only came
15th out of 22 competitors, the song still receives
airplay on Iceland’s radio stations and when it’s
played in Iceland’s nightclubs and bars, Icelanders
tend to join in.
Throughout the years, Iceland has secured second place twice: in 1999 when Selma Björnsdóttir,
accompanied by two men dancing in raincoats,
delivered a buoyant and breezy song, ‘All Out of
Luck’; and in 2009, Jóhanna Gudrún Jónsdóttir
came second with the mournful and poignant
ballad, ‘Is it True?’
At the other end of the spectrum there have
also been catastrophic years when Iceland found
itself at the bottom of the pile. Daníel Ágúst sang
‘That Which Nobody Sees’ in 1989 and heard the
infamous words no contestant ever wants to hear,
“zero points.” Similarly, in 2001, the duo Two Tricky
Photos by Gudmundur Thor Kárason / Ólöf Erla Einarsdóttir
Chameleon
of Many Colors
On the Fly
performed the song ‘Angel’ and received just three
points.
And it simply would not be the done thing to
write an article on Iceland and Eurovision without
mentioning Páll Óskar Hjálmtýsson, Iceland’s King
of Eurovision, who performed the sultry dance
number ‘My Last Dance’ in 1997 with his black
leather, fishnet stockinged harem troop of dancers.
Given the range of singers, performers, outfits and drama that explode on our screens in
Eurovision, what does Iceland have to offer this
year?
This year’s contestant, Hera Björk Thórhallsdóttir,
had already given three interviews when I sat
down to talk to her at one o’clock on a Saturday.
She tells me she still retains fond memories of
singing into her hairbrush and dancing alongside
the sofa when she watched Eurovision as a child.
Little did she know then that she would be representing Iceland in the Eurovision Song Contest
with the song ‘Je ne sais quoi’.
Currently, her life is full of rehearsals, meetings,
recording her third solo album, dress fittings,
exercising and in between all that finding time for
her partner and two children. “This can be tough
on the family,” confides Hera Björk, “So much focus
is on me just now that others around me can lose
their identity as everyone is constantly asking
about me. It’s a very busy time.”
As a jazz, pop, rock, R&B and classical singer,
Hera Björk has to ponder when I ask her which
her true musical passion is. “Rock singing and jazz
would be my favorites, and performing with an
orchestra—well, that’s something I really can’t say
no to. I also love singing ballads for small audiences but then there’s the thrill of singing in front
15,000 people.”
She is indeed a musical chameleon with her
inspirations as far reaching as jazz legend, Sarah
Vaughan, modern icon George Michael—who
brings out her maternal side, “I just want to hug
him,” she gushes—and American heavy metal star,
Ronnie James Dio.
Since 2004, Hera Björk has been a passionate advocate of the Complete Vocal Technique
she learned from Danish entrepreneur, Cathrine
Sadolin. Hera Björk now trains and coaches this
method throughout Europe and Iceland. “This tool
has not only increased my own vocal range but
has taught me greater responsibility as a singer. I
now know I can completely control my voice and
it’s totally changed the way I look at myself as a
singer.”
Her own musical career started in earnest over
twenty years ago. In 1987, a fifteen-year-old Hera
Björk made her debut in a competition in the
south of Iceland, singing the Fairground Attraction
hit ‘Perfect’. This indeed proved to be a perfect
choice as she won first prize.
Her musical passion started to diversify a few
years later. She sang in the musical The Rocky
Horror Picture Show in 1995 and performed in the
chamber choir Schola Cantorum in Hallgrímskirkja
church in Reykjavík between 1996 and 2004.
Weekend performances in Reykjavík with the
pop group 17 Vélar were sandwiched in between
studying for a degree in business and marketing
in Akureyri.
Spreading her wings further afield, there followed a period as the TV host of a local entertainment show. In 2000 she recorded her first solo
album. In addition, she’s appeared in musicals in
Iceland as broad ranging as Little Shop of Horrors,
Kiss me Kate and Evita.
Given all this, you’d think she would be a novice
in the world of Eurovision. However, it’s quite the
contrary. Whilst 2010 is indeed the first time she is
Iceland’s representative, Hera Björk is no stranger
to the song contest. She was both coach and
backing vocalist for the Icelandic entries, ‘This is
my Life’ (2008) and the Eurovision 2009 runner-up
‘Is it True?’
However, the real catalyst for Hera Björk deciding she wanted to represent Iceland could be
described as an ironic twist of fate and something
that she describes as her most profound musical
experience to date, namely, when she won second
place in the 2009 Danish Eurovision Final with the
song ‘Someday’.
“At that point I was a relative unknown in
Denmark,” says Hera Björk, “but that result changed
everything. I was competing with Danish singers
who were very strong and coming second really
opened doors for me. Suddenly, people were talking about the woman that had blown them away
with this big, powerful voice. I had so much fun, it
was like being a child in a candy store.”
Meanwhile, Hera Björk’s success in Denmark
was watched with great interest by Icelanders.
“Icelanders became very territorial, really, and felt
almost a sense of ownership over me. I decided
there and then that I wanted to sing for Iceland in
Eurovision in 2011. The plan had been to have one
year off but then ‘Je ne Sais quoi’ came along and
here I am singing in 2010.”
And with that, Hera Björk leaves me with a
twinkle in her eye. a
The Eurovision Song Contest is held in Oslo,
Norway, May 25, 27 and 29.
On the Fly
Paradoxical
Painting
A
fter wrapping up his last exhibit in January,
Thrándur Thórarinsson wastes little time
getting to work on his next project. “I’m
thinking of calling it Capricci Paintings,” he says and
motions to the large 2 by 2.5 meter work in progress behind me, which depicts a familiar scene in
Reykjavík nowadays: a public demonstration on
Austurvöllur, the town square in front of Althingi.
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But there is something decidedly anachronistic
about this depiction. A man stands on a soapbox
addressing a crowd, all of whom are dressed in
clothing more reminiscent of the turn of the 20th
century. “Those police uniforms never even existed
like that here and you can see that I have adjusted
the architecture in the background more to my
liking.” By incorporating fanciful elements into his
otherwise realistic cityscapes, Thórarinsson thus
pays homage to the capriccio style that emerged
among 18th-century Italian painters.
Born in 1978, Thrándur is a young painter
immersed in an old-world aesthetic. He spends
most of his days in his studio-cum-apartment in
downtown Reykjavík painting oil on canvas scenes
with old masters such as Rembrandt and Goya
Photo by Páll Stefánsson
Alda Kravec explores the mythical worlds of
Thrándur Thórarinsson, a young artist who
paints with an old hand.
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On the Fly
in mind. Thórarinsson’s subject matter, however,
remains decisively local as he draws heavily from
Icelandic history, sagas and folktales. He has painted dramatic scenes from Njáll’s Saga as well as
popular legends such as the enchanting Merman,
the gruesome Grýla and the disappearance of
Reverend Oddur from Miklabaer. He has visually
rendered momentous historical events such as the
Christianization of Iceland in 1000, the beheading of the Catholic bishop Jón Arason in 1550,
and the Turkish Abductions that took place in the
Westman Islands in 1627. Thórarinsson’s work is
thus putting a face on collective memories that
have been preserved since the settlement period
largely through oral and written traditions.
Visual correlatives to these literary traditions
have been conspicuously absent. “The history of painting in this country is just so short,”
Thórarinsson confirms when I ask him whether
his art is not a throwback to some antiquated
genre of Icelandic painting. Indeed, it is common
to locate the beginning of painting and visual arts
in Iceland at the start of the 20th century with
landscape painters such as Thórarinn Thorláksson
(1867-1924), Ásgrímur Jónsson (1876-1958) and
Jón Stefánsson (1881-1962). Although some of
these pioneering painters did incorporate folktale
elements into their work, Thórarinsson does not
follow in their footsteps, but rather asserts with
a certain disdain, “They were all under the influence of Cezanne.” Apparently Thórarinsson does
not seek inspiration from post-impressionism.
Nor does he subscribe to more recent currents
of modernism as his work clearly stands apart
from art being produced in Iceland today. To be
sure, his work embodies a telling paradox, which
underscores a peculiarity in the development of
modern art in Iceland. Not only is Thórarinsson’s
work unconventional by contemporary standards,
it represents a new phenomenon in a country that
has no history of history painting. And yet by evoking the old masters, by using live models for all his
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figurative composition and by working exclusively
with oil applied layer by layer, Thórarinsson obviously employs a conservative practice of painting.
Thórarinsson’s methodology sets him apart from
his contemporaries. Indeed, his traditional painting is hardly a fashionable trend in the Icelandic
visual arts scene, but he is not about to let that
deter him. On the contrary, he contends, “This is
more fun than trying to be hip and cool; I mean
to take something that is considered tacky and
outdated and put a new spin on it.” Although he
was accepted into Iceland’s Academy of the Arts,
he soon became frustrated with the Academy’s
modernist agenda. “They do not offer courses in
model drawing or composition. I think all art students could benefit from such courses, regardless
of the direction of modern art.” So Thórarinsson
withdrew from the Academy and instead began a
three year apprenticeship with the controversial,
Norwegian figurative painter Odd Nerdrum, who
was living in Iceland at the time. Renowned for his
opposition to the predominance of modernism
and conceptual art within Norway’s Academy of
the Arts as well as his appropriation of the term
‘kitsch’ as a positive concept, Nerdrum’s ideas and
style palpably resonate in Thórarinsson’s work.
However, in speaking with Thórarinsson, one
immediately gets the sense that he is not so much
an agitator as a mellow, somewhat reclusive type,
just doing his own thing. In fact, he concedes,
“With the exception of modern architecture…I
have nothing against modern art, though I might
find much of it tiresome.”
Thórarinsson’s next exhibit will be his fourth in
less than three years. Each exhibition has boasted between 10 and 20 oil paintings sometimes
stretching as far as 2.5 by 2.3 meters in size. It is
evident that Thórarinsson possesses that rare gift
coveted by most aspiring artists, a passion that
registers in a prolific turn out. Then again, painting
is no part-time pastime, it is his livelihood. Direct
and refreshingly accessible, his work has been well
received by the general public here. But he does
not paint in order to impress others: “Sure, appealing to the public is a plus and I’ve never received
a bad review in the papers, but I don’t know what
the art critics would think of my work.” Nor does
he want to confine himself to just one subject or
genre and his exhibitions testify to an ever evolving style, from the darkly hued, figurative images
of his first two shows and the focus on landscape
in his last exhibition Áfangar, to the more brightly
colored and fantastical elements of his cappricci
paintings.
Still, for the most part his subjects remain distinctively local, namely Icelandic, and though
unconventional by today’s standards, it is perhaps
tempting to interpret the spirit of such work as
reactionary. After all, landscape painting in Iceland
is intimately connected to the independence
movement and the rise of nationalism in the early
20th century. However, Thórarinsson firmly rejects
the connection with respect to his work: “I’m not
at all comfortable with the fact that people often
connect these two things, so that if you express
an interest in folklore then you are thought to be
a nationalist. On the contrary, I would rather see
more immigrants in Iceland and more things done
to accommodate refugees seeking asylum here.” In
reference to the decade long struggle of Muslims
to obtain the right to build a mosque in Reykjavík,
Thórarinsson continues: “I have been thinking
about painting a beautiful mosque into one of my
Reykjavík [capricci] paintings. It would be the first
beautiful construction to appear in this city during
the past 50 years.” In the end, Thórarinsson shows
how combining the old and the new is not mere
fantasy; traditional techniques can be made relevant to a society in need of a fresh coat of paint.
Thrándur Thórarinsson is currently planning his
next exhibition in Reykjavík during early summer
2010. His previous work and contact details can be
viewed online at skakkapopp.is. a
ICELAND :: FILM – Berlin – Copenhagen – Reykjavík
Icelandic Filmmaking 1904-2009
EXHIBITIONS - GUIDED TOURS
CAFETERIA - CULTURE SHOP
MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS – EDDAS AND SAGAS
The Ancient Vellums on Display
The Culture House – Þjóðmenningarhúsið
National Centre for Cultural Heritage
Hverfisgata 15 · 101 Reykjavík (City Centre)
Tel: 545 1400 · www.thjodmenning.is
ICELANDERS – AN EXHIBITION OF PHOTOGRAPHS
The spirit of the Icelandic nation in words and images
Open daily between 11 am and 5 pm
Free guided tour of THE MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS exhibition Mon and Fri at 3:30 pm.
Whale Watching
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1.600m 2 of interesting facts about whales
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Tricky Volcano
Photos by Páll Stefánsson
O
n 20 March, a small scenic eruption started in Fimmvörduháls, close to
Eyjafjallajökull glacier, and lasted for three weeks.
Thousands of tourists visited the rugged Fimmvörduháls mountain
ridge above Thórsmörk valley to see the small eruption. They got there hiking,
snowmobiling, on super jeeps and helicopters, admiring the fascinating show
Mother Earth put on.
Then the eruption stopped. After two days of no volcanic activity, early in the
morning of 14 April, a big eruption started on top of Eyjafjallajökull glacier. This
time it was no small and cozy tourist eruption. It was a full-blown eruption in the
middle of a glacier, sending huge plumes of ash into the stratosphere. Not only
did it affect Iceland, but for five days it halted nearly all air traffic in the whole of
Europe, disrupting life as we know it. Let us quote the ‘Earthly Powers’ editorial
in The Economist on 22 April.
“One of the things that went missing in the shadow of that volcanic dust was
a sense of human power. And as with the quiet skies, this absence found a welcome in many hearts. The idea that humans, for all their technological might,
could be put in their place by this volcano—this obscure, unpronounceable, C-list
volcano—was strangely satisfying, even thrilling.”
We could not agree more.
Since the eruption started the whole world has been desperately trying to pronounce the tricky Icelandic name of Eyjafjallajökull, so here is AP News Service’s
recommended phonetic spelling suggestion ay-yah-FYAH’-plah-yer-kuh-duhl. To
tell you the truth we also grapple with that version.
Being close to the volcano was no fun at all. Pitch black heavy ash fall, blocking
the sun—an out of this world experience—and thundering explosions grinding
magma from the belly of the earth to fine dust.
But after a week, the volcano started to calm down, having melted huge holes
in the icecap of Eyjafjallajökull and covered the farmland under the glacier in
black ash. How long will the eruption last? Maybe it will be over tomorrow, the
day after tomorrow, or it will last a couple of years. No one knows. PS
22
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Tourists approaching the
eruption at Fimmvörduháls,
with Eyjafjallajökull volcano
in the background.
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23
a Tricky Volcano
Glowing lava rivers from the
eruption created spectacular
falls streaming from the
highland rim into the steep
ravines of Thórsmörk valley.
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Spectators gazing at the eruption at dusk.
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25
a Tricky Volcano
Eyjafjallajökull volcano blowing ash, steam and
brimstone at full force. The ash is created when the
glowing magma meets melting ice from the glacier,
causing titanic explosions which grind the lava to dust.
The photograph is taken at sunset 17 April.
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27
a Tricky Volcano
A night shot of the volcano showing the glow of the eruption. On some nights there was a lot of lightning activity in the ash plumes as electricity is created when the fire hits the ice.
28
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29
a Tricky Volcano
Coming through pitch black darkness in the middle of a sunny day. The ash fall over Eyjafjallasveit was an incredible sight and caused a lot of damage to the fertile farmlands.
None of the photographs on these pages have been touched up or altered.
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Jökulsárlón lagoon
Cruising among
the icebergs
Jökulsárlón’s boat company offers
30-40 min. cruises around this
spectacular lake all summer from
May to September. Allows you to
get right up close to the icebergs.
i n f o r m at i o n + 3 5 4 4 7 8 2 2 2 2 o r
w w w. j o k u l s a r l o n . i s
Margrét Sigfúsdóttir, Headmistress of the Home Economics School.
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Keeping House
by Mica AllAn Photos by Páll Stefánsson
Home economics may sound old fashioned but the Home
Economics School in Reykjavík is still going strong after
nearly seventy years of operation. Located in one of
Reykjavík’s grand old buildings it still attracts
girls—and boys alike—who want to learn
how to cook, clean and sew properly.
T
here can’t be many schools that still
evoke the nostalgia of a bygone era,
that possess cozy, little details yet at the
heart contain the rigors of a sound educational
philosophy. So, I was surprised when I visited
one such Icelandic establishment, the Home
Economics School—Hússtjórnarskólinn, one of
only two left in Iceland—and spent an afternoon
in this elegant house in the heart of Reykjavík
with Headmistress, Margrét Sigfúsdóttir.
My first, overwhelming impression upon
entering the building was that although it has
been a school since 1942, there is nothing institutional about it. Flower filled vases, rugs and
paintings added a homely feel. Very fitting, I
thought, given that the school’s raison d’être is to
teach housekeeping skills.
Sigfúsdóttir ushered me into her light filled
office which, judging from the papers on her
desk and the coffee and pancakes on offer, was
both a hive of industry and a place from which
to entertain. Elegant and focused, she spoke
passionately about her role and the school, and
it soon became clear that not only did she know
what she was talking about but that this was one
housemistress who ran a tight yet loving ship.
An experienced cookery teacher, Sigfúsdóttir
has been headmistress since it became an
independent school in 1989 and subsequently
received less funding from the government.
Whilst her passion remains teaching cookery,
her role as head also involves elements of admin-
The school is located in one of Reykjavík’s most elegant
villas on the west side of town.
istration and business development, renting out
both public rooms to local interest groups at the
weekends and residential quarters to holidaymakers and students over the summer.
However, the role of headmistress and the
purpose of Hússtjórnarskólinn were once very
different. In the 1940s the school served a different need in a different era, when there were
less educational opportunities for girls. Coming
from the Danish custom, Hússtjórnarskólinn provided young women with the skills to run a
household and it is perhaps no accident that the
school itself used to be run like a household.
In those days, all students boarded at the
school, even if there were young women who
lived in the next street. The headmistress lived
on site and would read to the students in the
evenings when young women were not permitted to go out after dinner, it being deemed not
the ‘proper’ thing for ladies to do. Completing
the cozy picture, a resident housekeeper made
hot chocolate and cakes for all.
Some seventy years later, things have moved
on a bit. The majority of students remain
between eighteen and twenty-four years old yet
they can now gain credits from their studies to
contribute towards the general Icelandic school
curriculum. They are also now free to come
and go in the evenings and have the choice of
boarding. In addition, given the liberalization
of women in recent years, there has even been a
girlfriend and boyfriend who both attended the
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33
a
Keeping House
Students learn cooking, cleaning, weaving, sowing among other practical things useful for running a home. Here making gravlax in the kitchen and sowing.
school and boarded in the same room. Times
have indeed moved on.
I ask Sigfúsdóttir about the school’s demographic and although she says the overwhelming
majority of the students remain women, there
have been a few cases of young men attending the school in recent years. Furthermore, in
the late 1980s the school ran a series of short
evening courses which attracted a number of
men. She explains that although women now
have greater choices available to them, running
a home, whether it contains just them or a large
family, remains a given and learning how to do
this efficiently is a skill from which they themselves can directly benefit.
So, what exactly do they learn here? I wondered. Was instruction given on the broad
fundamentals or was it all about the froth of
women being modeled into Stepford Wives,
complete with glassy smiles and demure and
obliging demeanors?
I was to learn that the curriculum is practical
and no nonsense, with no froth in sight. Firstly,
the 24 students are divided into two groups,
with one group spending seven weeks learning crafts—sewing, needlework, knitting and
weaving—whilst the other group learn how to
run a house—ironing, washing, cleaning, cooking, baking and learning about nutrition. The
groups then rotate.
If working nine to five on such skills were not
34
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enough, two events showcase and celebrate the
students’ new skills. Firstly, a formal dinner for
students and their families, complete with table
linen and silver. Students spend two days preparing the meal, before changing into their finery
and joining their families to enjoy the fruits of
their labor. A glowing Sigfúsdóttir proudly tells
me that this is a much looked forward to event.
Meanwhile, those students who have been
developing their craftwork talents have an open
day where they show their creations to the community. This too is a much loved event by local
residents and former students.
During my tour of the school Sigfúsdóttir
leads me through its labyrinth like corridors and
introduces me to women contentedly knitting
away and happily absorbed with their sewing.
Again, the word that comes to my mind is
‘cozy’. I may not have had the basic ability to
even knit a scarf as a youngster but the atmosphere alone, not to mention the knowledge and
skills that the students learn, is a huge magnet to
even a novice like myself.
Sigfúsdóttir may have a point. Times have
moved on, but we still need to eat well, wash
our clothes and clean our homes; these fundamentals remain. My time at Hússtjórnarskólinn
has shown me that these skills are taught in a
way that is both respectful to the heritage of the
school and fitting in today’s modern society. a
Times have moved on, but we
still need to eat well, wash
our clothes and clean
our homes; these
fundamentals
remain.
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Mythical
Mývatn
by John Boyce
Photos by Páll stefánsson
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36
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at
t ll a
an
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t ii c
ca
a
T
he Icelandic countryside is replete with many of the natural wonders of the world, from volcanoes and glaciers to spectacular waterfalls. Among these jewels of nature is Lake Mývatn
and its surrounding hinterland. The Mývatn region takes its name from the prodigious quantity of flies (mý in Icelandic) that congregate around the lake (vatn is lake or water in Icelandic). In the
summer the hotels, guest houses and campsites of the lake buzz with international life. Some come
for its abundance of wildlife, others for its surreal volcanic beauty. A third strand of interest is the rich
tradition of legend and lore that has grown out of this most unique of aquatic formations.
a
at
t ll a
an
nt
t ii c
ca
a
37
37
a Mythical Mývatn
The Landscape
In geological terms, Mývatn is what is known as a shallow eutrophic lake situated in a
highly active volcanic area in the north of Iceland. The stunning vistas of Mývatn and its
surrounding hinterland are the result of complex and awe inspiring processes that began
more than 2,300 years ago. A large fissure eruption produced an enormous amount of
basaltic lava which flowed down the Laxárdalur valley into the Arctic Ocean, creating a
crater row on top of the fissure. At this time a large lake was in the region, the precursor
to the present day Lake Mývatn. When the flowing lava came into contact with the lake
some of the underlying lake sediment became trapped, provoking steam explosions which
broke off and expelled chunks of lava with great force. Repeated explosions such as these
helped to shape the crater pocked landscape on the shores of Lake Mývatn and produced
the volcanic islands that punctuate the surface of the water. The effect is one of the most
surreal and mystical landscapes that Iceland has to offer the visitor.
Though the formation of the lake can be dated to about 2,300 years ago, it is just one
in a series of periods of intense volcanism that began at the close of the Ice Age more
than 10,000 years ago. A new cycle began with a series of explosions in the 1720s that
culminated in the creation of the exquisite crater lake of Víti. A crater lake, as the name
suggests, is when a lake is created by precipitation in the crater of an active or dormant
volcano. Víti, though small in comparison to the great crater lakes of China or even other
places in Iceland, has an exquisite charm of its own. The Mývatn region remains a highly
active volcanic area with no fewer than nine eruptions between 1975 and 1984, while
its continental drift measured a staggering 4.8 meters. This impressive show of nature’s
power was not only spectacular but was also groundbreaking in scientific terms, giving
scientists their first real opportunity to study plate tectonics on dry land.
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The Lake Life
The area’s ecological value is such that Mývatn, the river Laxá and
the surrounding wetlands have been taken under governmental protection in the form of the Mývatn-Laxá Nature Conservation Area.
The intense volcanic activity not only makes for stunning geological
formations and a unique landscape, but is also partly responsible for
the abundance of wild life in the area. The lake, due to its unique formation, is fed by immensely nutrient-rich spring water which in turn
creates an abundance of aquatic insects and water flies which saturate
the area in summer. A common sight is the unsuspecting visitor vainly
attempting to erect their tent in the campsite while simultaneously
engaged in a futile slapping match with the midges. Though these
irritating creatures may be the bane of tourists and locals alike, in
the short summer months they are manna from heaven for the local
wildlife, particularly ducks, with no less than 13 species making their
seasonal home on the shores of the lake.
For the nature lover and the expert ornithologist alike, the region
is a font of knowledge as the combination of duck species is a unique
blend of American, Eurasian, Boreal and Arctic species. There are tens
of thousands of birds in the district in summer. The population of
over 2,000 Barrow’s Goldeneye ducks rely completely on the habitat
provided by the Mývatn /Laxá water system and the lava fields that
surround them. Most of the bird species nest in the many islands on
the lake and in the adjoining marshland. It is a long held tradition
that duck eggs are served as a delicacy at local farms, though strict
harvesting etiquette demands that at least 3 to 4 eggs are left in each
nest for the ducks to incubate.
The maintenance of such etiquette is just one of the concerns of
the nearby Mývatn Research Station. The station is an Ecological
Research Institute run under the auspices of the Icelandic Ministry
of the Environment. It is concerned with monitoring the ever
evolving wildlife situation and the geological developments that
inherently shape life in the ecosystem. The area itself is a protected
nature reserve managed by the environment and food agency of
Iceland backed up by information from the station. Árni Einarsson,
a professor at the University of Iceland, is head of the station and
he underlines the importance of the region in ecological terms.
“Mývatn is one of those rare locations on earth where the composition of the earth and water provides a truly unique habitat.”
According to Einarsson, Iceland’s position between the continents
means the species composition of the biota (microscopic life upon
which fish and wildlife feed) is uniquely rich. “It is essentially based
on an immensely phosphate rich groundwater which settles at a
level very convenient to the survival of aquatic plants and water
fowl,” he says.
a Mythical Mývatn
The Legends
Given the singularity and importance of Mývatn and its hinterland to life,
both animal and human, it’s hardly surprising that the region and the lake
have become a rich source of folklore myth and legend, handed down
from generation to generation in both written and oral tradition for more
than a thousand years.
Júlíana Thóra Magnúsdóttir, a lecturer in the department of folkloristics at the University of Iceland, has studied the relationship between
individual legends and their corresponding landscape in rural Iceland.
Concerning Mývatn, “There are many legends and proverbial stories
with regard to the lake itself, often revolving around aquatic life and, of
course, the ever present midges,” she says. As Magnúsdóttir points out,
the surreal nature of the lake and its protruding craters has given rise to
some rather bizarre and, in some cases, quite dark legends. “One of the
oldest has deeply religious connotations and recounts the tale of how
Satan, enraged by the beauty of the world God has created, urinated
towards the sun to create darkness. In this endeavor he failed, creating
instead the lake of Mývatn, considered in ancient times to be an ugly creation full of midges that tortured both men and animals.” The origin and
perfidy of the midge population is also reflected in ancient local beliefs. In
times past, the god fearing people of Mývatn believed that creatures like
For the visitor to Mývatn and the surrounding district it is this irresistible combination of landscape, lake life and legend
that draws attention from all over the
world, making it one of the must-see stops
on any Icelandic travel itinerary.
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midges that gave them no rest and engulfed all the senses in the summer
months couldn’t possibly have been created by God. From such incredulity sprang the notion that midges originated from the beard of Satan and
were henceforth known as the beard lice of the devil.
Other tales inevitably refer to the success or failure of fishing expeditions, or indeed infamous drownings and famous rescues that once again
underline the centrality of the lake in the lives of locals. Though many
of the legends relate to the lake itself, others are derived from the region
as a whole and run the entire gamut of Icelandic folklore tradition from
trolls and fairies to ghosts and outlaws. Often these legends had some
minor kernel of truth that became mythologized and exaggerated out
of all proportion. A good example of this is the legendary female troll of
Mývatn, as Magnúsdóttir explains. “This is perhaps my favorite creation
as female trolls of such personality are relatively rare in Icelandic folklore
tradition.” The story tells of the troll, Kráka, who lived in the marshlands.
She was known as a particularly lecherous creature and was much feared
by locals, as she was reputed to regularly kidnap men from the surrounding hinterland to keep her company. The kernel of the folk legend probably stems from fear of a local recluse who did not mix with locals and
inevitably became the subject of conjecture. a
HÚSAVÍK
tel: 464 7272
www.northsailing.is
Lady of the
Ring
by Mica AllAn
Photos courtesy of Hendrikka Waage
H
endrikka Waage is known for being
surrounded by all things bright and
beautiful, be they her renowned collections of glamorous jewelry or the glitterati
that wear them. Like a fine wine, her two latest projects are the culmination of a number
of conditions all coinciding to create a winning formula. Building on her experience of
international business relations and artistic
entrepreneurship, Waage is now embarking
on her first series of children’s books to support another cause she champions where
children will receive, amongst other things,
a talking frog complete with crown. Curious?
Read on…
Some years ago Waage had the notion
of utilizing the cultural knowledge she’d
amassed from her work and travels throughout countries as diverse as Russia, Japan and
India and of capturing this in books. The end
result is a recently published children’s book,
Rikka and her Magic Ring, with the main aim
of educating children about their own and
others’ cultures.
The protagonist, Rikka, is a curious nineyear-old Icelandic girl, blessed with a magical ring that on turning purple instantly
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transports this young adventurer to different
places. Very Star Trek and arguably a much
coveted skill, especially given that Iceland’s
recent volcanic activity can impede the more
standard form of air travel.
Vibrantly illustrated by Inga María
Brynjarsdóttir, Rikka’s first book of adventures takes place in her homeland, Iceland,
where she visits glaciers, consorts with elves
and plays Iceland’s national game, handball.
This is the first of six books as Rikka goes
globetrotting, with India up next.
The suite of books complements and
supports a larger project that Waage and
friends first concocted some two years ago
whilst traveling throughout one of Iceland’s
national parks, Thingvellir, the old site of the
Icelandic parliament. Out of their desire and
commitment to charitable work, they decided to form their own charity. Kids’ Parliament
was subsequently born.
Its aim is to reach all children, those from
both privileged and disadvantaged backgrounds, children with mental and physical
challenges, and children from all religions,
beliefs and cultures.
“Kids’ Parliament is for children aged
Lady of the Ring
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43
a Lady of the Ring
“Kids’ Parliament is for children aged
between six and eighteen who want
to develop through education,
entrepreneurship, art, music
and leadership programs.
between six and eighteen who want to
develop through education, entrepreneurship, art, music and leadership programs.
Our aim is to connect intellectual development with the arts and to create a charity that promotes a spiritual flow and is all
encompassing for children from all cultural
and ethnic backgrounds.”
Since its inception, Kids’ Parliament has
gathered significant international attention.
It has not only been invited by the United
Nations to all its meetings but also been
granted a platform to speak; it has been
awarded the status of NGO of Honor by the
Alliance of Civilizations in Brazil; and One
World 2011 is interested in exploring partnership working with the new charity.
Part of the proceeds of the Rikka and her
Magic Ring series and all of Waage’s royalties
will now contribute to funding this charity
whose mission is to “foster a dialogue for
and by children which facilitates personal
decision making; to develop and implement
appealing programs for kids and to ensure
that children’s voices are heard and represented in all decision–making bodies of the
world.”
Icelandair will be selling the books on
their flights, with part of the proceeds going
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directly to a children’s travel fund. Part of the
proceeds from books sold at other locations
in Iceland will go to helping students pay
for their Icelandic university education. In
this way Waage aims to support children’s
dreams of traveling and of education, two
passions close to her heart.
Lofty and noble ideas. And you may indeed
be wondering when I will get to the part
about the talking frog. The logo for the
charity is a fun, smiling frog that wears
a sparkly crown. The talking part comes
courtesy of the latest technology from Israel
that will allow safer communication than
the internet can offer. Each child involved in
Kids’ Parliament will receive a frog that will
provide them with the latest information
and messages about the charity’s activities.
Gimmicky and cute, yes, but also, Waage
informs me, a way of ensuring safety in an
age where the internet can’t provide total
security, especially for children.
As both co-founder and president, Waage
has been influential in securing the involvement of some internationally renowned individuals. His Holiness the Dalai Lama and
Nobel Peace Prize winner Betty Williams sit
on the honorary advisory board, as does
Rabbi David Rosen and fashion entrepre-
neur Bibi Russell. Plans are also afoot to roll
out a program of events in countries as far
reaching as Qatar, Belgium and Brazil, and all
young people involved will be able to attend
courses free of charge.
Three of the first initiatives are soon to be
launched. An international art competition,
for children from the ages of six to eighteen,
will be held between fourteen countries with
the finals being held in Berlin 2011. In addition, an annual meeting will be held each
year bringing together a child from each
country to create a parliament, a forum for
young people to discuss and direct the agenda themselves regarding what they want to
achieve, learn and develop. Continuing this
theme, an advisory board of young people
between the ages of sixteen and eighteen
will shape the running of Kids’ Parliament.
“So many things happen because of a lack
of education,” says Waage, “and education
opens so many doors to see and experience
the world.”
And with the expertise, vision and passion
harnessed to create such opportunities for
young people, I have the feeling that Kids’
Parliament will allow children to shape not
only their own development but shape the
world around them too. kidsparliament.org a
Our website
is one of the safest places
in Iceland!
www.safetravel.is
We want you out of here – alive!
icelandreview.com
Daily News from Iceland
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Spring Fever in the City
F
or the tourist industry in Iceland the first of May marks the beginning of
the bustling summer season. Visitors who take advantage of the improving weather conditions can also imbibe of Icelandic culture at its finest, in
the form of the prestigious Icelandic Arts Festival. Running from 12 May to
5 June, the principle aim of the festival is to showcase and promote both
Icelandic and international culture across a wide range of media from
opera, pop music and dance to the
visual arts.
This year’s event has added
resonance as it is the fortieth anniversary of the festival, and the organizers
hope to make it a particularly memorable one.
Over the last
four decades the festival has
been graced by many internationally
renowned artists and performers from
the infectious rhythms of the Gipsy
Kings, or the punk rock sound of the Clash
to the legendary André Previn.
One medium being highlighted this year is
photography, with no less than 20 exhibitions
being held in galleries, museums and public
spaces with artists including Cindy Sherman and
David Byrne.
The 2008 festival marked the end of Thórunn
Sigurdardóttir’s tenure as artistic director after eight successful years which helped to cement the Icelandic festival’s
reputation as one of the most respected in Northern Europe.
Stepping into her experienced shoes last year was Hrefna
Haraldsdóttir, a former executive director of the Festival,
who presided over record ticket receipts.
“The festival has always been one of all the art forms and
we hope to remain true to this spirit with outstanding
Icelandic talent combined with international artists,” she
says.
Musicians team up with visual artists in a string of concerts held in their studios and writers invite visitors to
their homes for readings. There will be concerts all over
town in churches, halls and ballrooms, and photographic
exhibitions in every available gallery space.
For more detailed information go to listahatid.is
Amadou and Miriam
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Festival Highlights
As has been its wont over many years, the festival endeavors to showcase a wide range of talent to
suit all tastes. The following are but a few of the prodigious acts on offer.
Amadou and Miriam
The festival kicks off to a rousing start with this phenomenal blind duo from Mali.
Though they have been together for almost three decades, they came to international attention with the release of their hugely acclaimed, Manuchou produced album,
Dimanche á Bamako in 2005. They have been wowing audiences across the globe
ever since. Described by the BBC as rhythmically irresistible, they recently played for
President Barack Obama and have worked with the likes of Coldplay, Damon Albarn
and the Scissor Sisters. The duo brings its highly charged sound to Iceland on the
opening day of the festival, a performance which marks the end of a highly successful
European tour.
Leif Ove Andsnes
12 May, Laugardalshöll 8:30 p.m.
Collaborating Virtuosos
This year’s festival welcomes esteemed Norwegian pianist Leif Ove Andsnes, described
by the New York Times as “the most accomplished pianist of the new generation.”
Andsnes has taken time out of his international schedule to team up with two other
virtuosos from Germany, Christian and Tanya Tetzlaff, a violinist and cellist respectively. The trio will perform together in the large hall at Háskólabíó in a recital dedicated
to Schumann’s 200 year anniversary.
Romeo and
Juliet
13 May, Háskólabíó Concert Hall 8 p.m.
Romeo and Juliet
In collaboration with the City Theatre of Reykjavík, comes a bold and provocative
interpretation of Romeo and Juliet from the Vilnius City Theatre and its director
Oskaras Korsunovas. This award winning and critically acclaimed production has filled
theatres across Europe and marks quite a coup for the festival organizers.
14 - 15 May, Reykjavík City Theatre 8 p.m.
Megas
Megas
After almost 50 years performing and recording, the Icelandic icon Megas reinvents
himself once again, this time in concert with a string quartet, a children’s choir and a
rock band. He takes us on a journey through several decades of his extraordinary lyrics and for the first time he will also be performing arrangements by his son Thórdur
Magnússon.
24 May, Háskólabíó Concert Hall 8 p.m.
The Kitchen Symphony
The Kitchen Symphony is a wonderfully endearing musical and theatrical adventure
for children, staged by the National Theatre of Iceland. It tells the love story of Mr
Pot and Mrs Lid whose romance takes a flirtatious turn with the intervention of Mrs
Moulinette. The long suffering dish towel and Mr Broom become inevitably drawn
into the unpredictable tale.
The Kitchen
Symphony
29 May, National Theatre, 1 p.m. and 3 p.m.
Ryk á Bok: Benni Hemm Hemm, Alasdair Roberts and the
Reykjavík Wind Ensemble
This brand new composition by Benni Hemm Hemm features both Icelandic and
Scottish Gaelic interwoven to create a unique linguistic concoction. The Wind
Ensemble make themselves duly heard between the words, often to cacophonic
effect.
Benni Hemm Hemm
3 June, The Icelandic Opera 8 p.m.
Kristinn Sigmundsson: Favorite Opera Arias
Basso Kristinn Sigmundsson is one of Iceland’s most renowned international opera
singers and he closes the festival with a full gala concert, ably assisted by the Icelandic
Symphony Orchestra and the Icelandic Opera Choir. Sigmundsson sings a selection of
his favorite arias, including Verdi Rossini and Tchaikovsky. Directed by Peter Sakari.
5 June, Háskólabíó Concert Hall 5 p.m.
Kristinn Sigmundsson
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Down on the Farm
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Museums
Farm holidays in Iceland are gaining popularity
as John Boyce discovered.
Photos by Páll stefánsson
F
or many decades in Iceland, tourism
was a small niche industry that directly involved relatively few of its island
citizens. A combination of cheaper airfares
and increasing interest in exotic destinations
resulted in an explosion of visitors to Iceland
in the 1990s. Though research shows that the
majority of visitors limit their stay to less than a
week, some visitors with more time seek a more
rugged and intimate experience with Icelandic
nature, rural life and its inhabitants. In many
cases, these visitors find exactly what they are
looking for with an Icelandic farm stay.
The putting up of visitors in rural Iceland has
a long history and is arguably derived from a
number of traditions. For an insight into the origins of Icelandic hospitality, I picked the brain
of Katrín Gudmundsdóttir, an anthropology
graduate from the University of Iceland and
keen student of Icelandic rural customs. “The
farm holiday industry in Iceland has, I would
suggest, a number of sources. The custom of
extending hospitality and a welcome to travelers is probably as old as Icelandic history itself.
In times past, travel from one isolated region
of the island to another was slow and arduous,
particularly in winter. Almost any journey of
significance entailed overnight shelter. Most
farmsteads were willing and happy to extend
a warm fire and a cup of broth, if only in the
hope of such hospitality being returned at some
point in the future.”
Another more recent precedent is, “the custom of sending children from the city to the
countryside for the summer to learn more
about nature and respect of plant and animal
life. It was considered a healthier option during
the endless Icelandic summer days than kicking
about town,” Gudmundsdóttir says. Though
these traditions stretch back to last century and
beyond, it is only in the last 40 years or so that
the concept of rural home stay developed into a
commercial concern.
According to Oddný Björg Halldórsdóttir,
managing director of Icelandic Farm Holidays,
the first steps on the road to a fully established
industry were taken in 1969 when Icelandair
began to look for farms that were willing to
cater professionally for foreign travelers. “The
first brochure was a very modest affair with a
few photographs and information on only about
five farms in the entire country,” she says.
The industry gradually grew, until in 1980
participating farmers got together to form the
Icelandic Farm Holidays Association to coordinate and develop the industry.
Today, spread across the length and breath of
the rugged Icelandic countryside are more than
140 farming homesteads that extend a professional welcome to tourists, both domestic and
foreign. Most are members of the association
and their fully functioning farm operations
allow the visitor to observe at close hand the
work and daily routine of a genuine Icelandic
farm. They usually offer comfortable, accessible
accommodation in an authentic rural setting
and a wide range of activities which vary from
location to location, depending on what the
local environment has to offer and the nature of
the farming activity that takes place. In addition
to experiencing farm life and work first hand,
visitors can choose from dozens of activities
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49
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a Down on the Farm
including horse riding, hiking, trekking, fishing,
mountaineering, swimming, thermal bathing,
rock climbing, berry picking, bird watching,
nature trailing and even rafting and skiing.
Many of the farms have staked out marked
paths to facilitate tours of the local beauty spots
and extended treks through the surrounding
hinterland. For the sports enthusiast, several
farms have even developed their own mini golf
courses. Such a holiday is also particularly suitable for a family trip. Many of the farms offer
specific rural friendly activities for children and
the chance to observe the running of the farm
and the husbandry of its animals.
In addition to the cultural value of the experience for the visitor, another important aspect of
the industry is its economic importance to their
hosts. Since the end of the Second World War,
Icelandic society has been transformed from an
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overwhelmingly rural society to a largely urban
one. Great swathes of the countryside have been
abandoned by those seeking a more prosperous
life in Reykjavík and the larger towns. The West
Fjords has seen the most dramatic decline of all.
In common with most countries in Europe, the
percentage of the population employed in agriculture has plummeted in the wake of increasing mechanization and foreign competition
from the multinational agri-business. Given such
trends, farm incomes have pretty much fallen
off a cliff in the last decade and landowners are
among the most indebted members of Icelandic
society. It has become increasingly difficult for
farming families to make a viable living from
their land. Many families that have farmed for
generations on the same homestead are loathe
to give up their rural existence. Some have had
to improvise and partly reinvent themselves,
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a Down on the Farm
often involving themselves in the local tourist
industry to maximize their dwindling incomes.
Offering accommodation and a rural holiday
experience is one of the ways farmers manage
to bridge the gap between growing expenditure
and falling incomes. As Halldórsdóttir ruefully
admits, “Offering accommodation is often the
only way that a farmer and his family can
remain on their land.”
One such farm is the homestead of Klaustursel
run by Adalsteinn Jónsson and his wife Ólivía
Sigmarsdóttir, located in the Jökuldalur valley about 50 kilometers from the town of
Egilsstadir, the major population centre of the
East. The farm has been in Jónsson’s family for
generations, but it was only in recent years that
the couple began to see the writing on the wall
as far as commercial farming was concerned.
“Farming being what it is in Iceland these days,
we realized we would have to diversify if we
wanted to stay on our land,” he says. To this
end the couple took up the running of the local
school-house hostel and combined it with trips
to their nearby farm to create the perfect rural
holiday experience. “With the added income
from tourism we can continue to run our farm
as a real commercial concern,” he says.
The farm itself husbands a wide variety of
livestock, including sheep, hens, geese, ducks
and foxes. This is also the heart of Icelandic
reindeer country, and trips are available to see
herds of these beautiful creatures that roam the
extremities of the homestead. For those particularly interested in the premier wildlife attraction
in the area, there is the opportunity to visit a
tanning workshop nearby to see how reindeer
hide is tanned into leather and to learn all about
the myriad uses to which reindeer have been
put over the years. The nearby hostel, with both
outdoor and indoor play facilities, is particularly
suitable for families. Facilities also include an
adjoining swimming pool and hot pot constructed 15 years ago, with money raised by the
efforts of the Jökuldalur valley inhabitants
One of the many visitors who has discovered the joys of the rural East in general, and
Klaustursel hospitality in particular, is Will
Ogmundson, a pianist and composer from
the frosty north of New England. Born and
raised in New Hampshire, he discovered his
Icelandic roots (one of his great grandfathers
was Icelandic) and came to Iceland to trace his
family heritage and study Icelandic in 1999. It
was only after he had spent several months in
Reykjavík that he finally discovered the joys of
the Icelandic countryside. “I was quite enjoying
the nightlife and other interests of Reykjavík,
when I took a trip with a friend to the home52
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stead near Egilsstadir,” he says. It was only then
that he realized what he had been missing. “As
well as being a healthy alternative to Reykjavík
nightlife, I began to get a real sense of the roots
of Icelandic survival that is the hallmark of rural
Icelanders. I immersed myself in the traditions
of horse riding, sheep shearing and mountain
trekking in search of lost lambs. I felt closeness
to my ancestral roots that I could never have
achieved in the city. Since that momentous week
in 1999, Ogmundson has returned almost every
year (and in recent years with his young family)
and usually chooses a different rural experience
each time. “It’s a wonderful opportunity to show
my own kids a little piece of their heritage. Each
new trip opens up a new aspect of Icelandic rural
culture and nature.”
Out of the Icelandic Farm Holidays Association
eventually grew the concept of Iceland Farm
Holidays Ltd. in 1990, a fully fledged travel agency strongly backed by the Icelandic Tourist Board.
As Halldórsdóttir explains, the organization runs
the website, organizes bookings and participates
in workshops and trade fairs. The primary aim
of all this is, of course, to promote and market
the concept of the rural Icelandic holiday experience. The organization and its farmer members
are hoping that with increased exposure more
and more people like Will Ogmundson will come
and discover the wonders that the rural wilds of
Iceland have to offer. a
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Start your stay in Iceland at the
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■ Cintamani / www.cintamani.is
Warm in a
Cold Climate
Photos by Páll stefánsson Model Telma Fjalarsdóttir
Design
F
or centuries, the wool from the Icelandic sheep has kept us warm. And still does. The traditional lopapeysa is still very popular, but with new designs and production it is gaining
an even bigger market, aimed at younger and more trendy buyers. The Icelandic wool is not
only warm, it is water resistant which makes it unique. So a woolen garment is the perfect
shelter to guard oneself against the elements.
Fleece can also be put to good use in Iceland’s unpredicteble weather. Lighter and
easier to design, fleece has no limits when it comes to shape and color. If you want to see
real rural Iceland, you should visit us in the fall when farmers round up their sheep from
the mountains. The biggest pens are in north Iceland, where thousands are driven in
from the highland heaths. It’s a festival for the locals who dress up in wool. PS
a
■ Vikingur / The Viking Store
Hafnarstræti 3 /
Laugavegur 1 101 Reykjavik
ATLANTICA
57
■ Álafoss / www.alafoss.is
58
atlantica
Design
a
■ Drífa / Icewear www.icewear.is
atlantica
59
a Design
■ Vík Prjónsdóttir / Víkurprjón / www.vikprjonsdottir.com
60
atlantica
UNFORGETTABLE
EXCURSIONS
Reykjavik Excursions offers a wide range of
unique and adventurous journeys in Iceland.
The Wonders
of Snaefellsnes
with Cruise
T
he Snaefellsnes peninsula in Iceland’s West is almost like a
miniature of the whole country. There are white and black
beaches, bird cliffs, spectacular mountains and volcanic
craters, incredibly rich trout lakes and salmon rivers, lush valleys
and a world renowned glacier. For nature lovers, The Wonders of
Snaefellsnes with Cruise out on Breidafjördur bay is an absolute
must. The tour will take you around the peninsula so you will see
the magnificent and mystical Snaefellsjökull glacier from all
sides. The stunning landscapes of the peninsula have captured
the imagination of people all over the world ever since Jules
Verne wrote the science fiction novel ”Journey to the Center of
the Earth”. The amazing Snaefellsjökull glacier is where the journey begins and the Stromboli volcano in Italy is where it ends.
When you travel around the peninsula you will see extensive
mossy lava fields and formations, volcanic craters, lakes and
salmon rivers, bird cliffs teeming with life and unique harbors in
charming fishing villages.
The tour takes you to Borgarnes village and then to the old
town of Stykkishólmur where a cruise boat takes you out to the
amazing Breidafjördur bay which is a world on its own with incredible bird and marine life, on and around the countless small
islands in the fjord, some of which have strange rock formations.
A highlight of the trip is when a net is hauled in and everyone
can taste the shellfish and sea-urchin roe. It doesn’t get any
fresher. Those who don’t feel like going out to sea have the option of taking a guided walk through the historic town of
Stykkishólmur, ending with a two-course lunch.
From Stykkishólmur we travel along the coast with a stop at
the black pebble beach of Djúpalónssandur and at Arnarstapi
village which has one of Iceland’s most picturesque harbors and
bird cliffs which can be viewed up close. Sometimes the tour
also stops at Ytri-Tunga to take a look at the seals and then a final
stop is made to view Eldborg volcanic crater before returning to
Reykjavík. www.re.is
Operation: 4 June – 29 August on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays leaving at 8 a.m. Duration: 11 – 12 hours.
Wool Sweater Reggae
Alda Kravec speaks with Hjálmar and traces the
story of Iceland’s first and only reggae band.
Photo by Páll stefánsson
B
efore actually hearing anything by
Hjálmar, I recall first reading about
them in the program for Airwaves back
in the fall of 2005. I found the idea of Icelandic
reggae amusing and, of course, I wanted to
check them out. Perhaps for the same reasons
that once prompted me to sample Wasabi flavored gelato in an ice cream shop that boasted
some 100 plus flavors. I sampled the gelato
on one of those mini spoons, but in the end
opted for two scoops of something reliably
good, like dark chocolate and lemon sorbet.
Wasabi gelato was a miss. When it comes to
Hjálmar’s special blend, however, it is safe and
most satisfying to invest in a full scoop, if not
two or three. Fans are currently lapping up
their fourth, as Hjálmar’s latest album, accurately entitled IV, attained gold record status
in Iceland shortly after its release and is now
closing in on platinum status. The band’s three
previous albums were equally successful. Time
and again, Hjálmar has proven that their brand
of reggae is not just a novelty or a passing trend.
They are a solid band creating an original but
addictive sound and possessing a refreshingly
down to earth style. More reminiscent of the
California roll, Hjálmar is a hit fusion.
But how did this far-out fusion of Jamaican
rhythms and Icelandic rhymes come to be?
Three of Hjálmar’s current five-man ensemble took some time out from a meeting at
their recording studio in Hafnarfjördur to talk
about the roots of their reggae. Present were:
Sigurdur Gudmundsson, keyboardist and vocalist; Gudmundur Kristinn Jónsson, guitarist
and sound engineer; and Valdimar Kolbeinn
Sigurjónsson, bassist. Siggi, Kiddi and Valdi.
Absent were vocalist Thorsteinn Einarsson and
drummer Helgi Svavar Helgason. And if this
cluster of names seems hard to swallow, the
story is further complicated by the fact that
the band’s composition has remained fluid.
Valdi and Helgi are relatively new additions,
replacing the Swedish section, which was made
up of Petter Winnberg, Nils Olof Törnqvist
and Mikael Svensson. But mainstays Siggi and
Kiddi are quick to dispel any notions of a split.
“We had been playing together for three years
straight and were incredibly tired, so we took a
break for a few months about three years ago,”
Kiddi explains. “Then we discovered we owed
money in taxes, so we reunited for a fundraising concert. Out of this reunion came our third
album, Ferdasót [Traveling Dust]. So, we have
the taxman to thank for our reunion.” He adds,
“The Swedes were tired of traveling back and
forth between Iceland and Sweden, so Helgi
and Valdi took over after Ferdasót’s release.”
Sweden
Still, I wonder about the Swedish connection.
Sweden has developed a reggae tradition of its
own. Beginning in the ‘70s and ‘80s when blues
musician Peps Persson and the punk band Dag
Vag turned to reggae, this tradition continues
strong, with more recent reggae ensembles
such as Rootvälta, Svenska Akademien and
Kung Kodum originating in Sweden, in addition to Scandinavia’s largest reggae festival,
the Uppsala Reggae Festival. Indeed, one of
Hjálmar’s most popular tracks to date, Ég vil
fá mér kaerustu [I want to get me a girlfriend],
takes its tune from an old Swedish folksong,
Ack Värmeland, du sköna. And more recently,
Hjálmar collaborated with Swedish hiphop and
reggae artist Timbuktu to produce the track
Dom himner aldrig ikapp.
However, Hjálmar does not look to Sweden as
a Music
a musical model and they tend to downplay the
alleged influence. Aside from Peps Persson, with
whom Hjálmar readily identifies, they do not
seem to be especially familiar with the Swedish
reggae scene, and are far from trying to emulate
it. In fact, they would rather distance themselves
from some of the contemporary reggae acts
emerging in the rest of Europe. Siggi explains, “I
don’t necessarily want to be associated with the
reggae scene that is to be found in Scandinavia
or France or Italy where they pretend to be from
Jamaica and begin growing dreads in order to
look the part. That’s just ridiculous.” Conversely,
Siggi suggests a more local source of influence:
“We are not a purebred reggae band, we also
have roots in our own folksong traditions, in old
Icelandic music.”
Keflavík
The idea of Hjálmar was born in the recording studio, Geimsteinn, located in the town
of Keflavík. Siggi and Kiddi were working on
an album for the Icelandic pop legend, Rúnar
Júlíusson, when the idea of putting together an
Icelandic reggae album dawned on them. “After
helping Júlíusson with a couple of reggae tracks
that he wanted on his album, it occurred to us
to record an entire reggae album,” says Siggi.
Thus Hjálmar came into being and their first
album, Hljódlega af stad [Taking off Quietly],
was released in 2004.
As the town that first transmitted the Beatles
to the rest of the country, Keflavík has long been
viewed as the birthplace of rock and pop music
in Iceland. It is of course tempting to draw the
connection further, and link the town with the
introduction of reggae to Iceland. “People want
to hold on to the nostalgic image of Keflavík as
a music town, so they are quick to associate us
with the town. But in reality only one of us is
actually from Keflavík,” says Valdi, referring to
Keflavík native Kiddi. Nor is there much of a
reggae scene in Keflavík or Iceland as a whole.
Indeed, Hjálmar claims Hljódlega af stad as
Iceland’s first home-grown reggae album. And
although they may have inspired a few otherwise
inclined musicians to record a reggae song of
their own, Hjálmar has hardly started a revolution on the Icelandic music front.
The band members themselves are wary of
being pigeon-holed as a reggae band, and underline their varying musical backgrounds and
interests. For example, Siggi and Valdi were
mainly schooled in blues and jazz respectively.
Meanwhile, Kiddi and Siggi continue to be
involved in the spoof band Baggalútur. “It may be
that Hjálmar is a reggae band, but its members
are not exclusively reggae musicians,” explains
Valdi. Kiddi smiles and adds, “Hjálmar has never
called itself a ‘reggae band’ and there is no
guarantee that our next album will be a reggae
album.”
Hjálmar further distinguishes itself by singing
almost exclusively in Icelandic, even while they
often write their first drafts in English. Since the
release of their second album, which featured
the traditional Icelandic wool sweater on the
cover, the local press has often described their
music as lopapeysu-reggae [wool sweater reggae].
They agree that the label suits them to a certain
extent. When asked why they do not sing in
English in order to access a wider audience, the
answer is clear: “We are not necessarily trying to
make it abroad,” asserts Siggi. Despite the fact
that their target audience remains local, Hjálmar
enjoys a good reception abroad, as Kiddi confirms: “People think that just because we sing
in Icelandic, we do not appeal to a foreign audience, but it’s a misconception. We sell loads of
our music abroad.”
Jamaica
Besides sharing the obvious geographical trait
of being island nations, it may seem far-fetched
to liken Iceland with Jamaica. Reggae grew out
of a politics of resistance, anti-colonialism, black
pride, the Rastafarian movement, anti-materialism—that is very remote from Iceland. However,
Hjálmar neither shies away from these differences nor exaggerates the similarities. Siggi says,
“When we look back now, and try to understand
what caused us to begin playing reggae, we can
speculate about possible explanations. I mean,
sure, maybe we got the idea from Jamaica…we
are both islands, Iceland was once a subjugated
colony too, and we have both experienced a
more recent surge in aluminum production. But
then again, it would be absurd to carry the con-
nection too far. In the end, it’s more just about
a good feeling for the music.”
The band’s demeanor testifies to their unpretentious outlook as they appear unconcerned
with putting on any false airs or trappings.
Siggi asserts, “We don’t sing about Jah or
Ganja.” But then he recollects, “with the exception of one song,” and the others laugh. He
goes on to recount how his adaptation of
Pluto Shervington’s ‘Ram Goat Liver’, which
appeared on Hjálmar’s first album as ‘Kindin
Einar’ [Einar the Sheep], had once contained
a reference to marijuana. “In order to avoid
any misunderstanding or discontent, I changed
ganja to banana, making it harmless,” he says.
“And healthy,” kids Kiddi.
In May 2009, Hjálmar traveled to Jamaica
where they recorded in the famous Tuff Gong
and Harry J. studios. They were backed up
by local brass and chorus line-ups, the latter
of which learnt some Icelandic to this end.
They also received feedback from some of the
industry’s old hands, who were generally positive though somewhat baffled. Valdi recaps the
general reaction: “They said it wasn’t exactly
normal reggae, and didn’t really know what to
call it, but they dug it and said it was good.”
Having achieved what they set out to do,
Hjálmar considers the trip a success: “Because
our time in Jamaica was limited, the basic idea
was to record as much as we could in Iceland,
and try to add the right spice in Jamaica. We
went in with a raw chicken, and came out with
jerk chicken.”
The upshot of the trip was not only the album
IV, but a short documentary by Bjarni Grímsson
and Frosti Runólfsson, Haerra ég og þú [Higher
Me and You], which premiered in the fall at the
Reykjavík International Film Festival. I ask them
if their movie experience has not aroused their
appetite for the big screen, and suggest a drama,
perhaps in the same vein as The Harder They
Come with Jimmy Cliff. They laugh. “Maybe in
like 10 years, when things here really get hard,”
suggests Valdi. a
A few of Hjálmar’s tracks can be heard for
free on myspace.com. Downloads can be purchased through itunes, emusic and amazon.
Only available at the Duty Free Store
"visit our store and have a lava bite"
Surtsey 1964
WE‘LL TAKE
YOU THERE!
DAY TOURS TO ALL THE MOST
ExCITING pLACES IN ICELAND
REYKJAvIK ExCURSIONS DAY TOURS 2010 - SUMMARY
RE-04 - THE GOLDEN CIRCLE
All year daily at 09.00.
MON
pRICE
TUE
WED
THU
FRI
9800 ISK
SAT
SUN
RE-08 - SAGA CIRCLE
All year on Saturdays at 09.00.
MON
TUE
pRICE
WED
THU
FRI
14500 ISK
SAT
SUN
DURATION : 9 HOURS.
Included: Bus fare, guidance, admission to museums and pick up at hotels and guesthouses
30 minutes before departure.
RE-15 - SOUTH SHORE ADvENTURE
01.06.-31.08.
DURATION : 8 HOURS.
Included : Bus fare, guidance, admission to Geysir multimedia show and pick up at hotels
and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure.
RE-05 - REYKJAvíK GRAND ExCURSION
All year daily at 13.00.
MON
pRICE
TUE
WED
THU
FRI
All year daily at 09.00.
MON
pRICE
TUE
WED
THU
FRI
15400 ISK
SAT
SUN
4900 ISK
SAT
SUN
01.06.-31.08.
DURATION : 10 HOURS.
Included: Bus fare, guidance, admission to Skógar folk museum and pick up at hotels and
guesthouses 30 minutes before departure.
01.06.-31.08.
DURATION : 2,5-3 HOURS.
Included: Bus fare, guidance and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes
before departure.
RE-16/RE-17 - THE WONDERS OF SNÆFELLSNES WITH CRUISE
5 June – 29 August on Wednesdays, Saturdays & Sundays at 08.00.
MON
RE-06 – THE WONDERS OF REYKJANES & BLUE LAGOON
1 March – 31 August daily at 09.00.
MON
TUE
pRICE
WED
THU
FRI
TUE
WED
THU
FRI
pRICE
24000 ISK
SAT
SUN
13500 ISK
SAT
SUN
DURATION : 8 HOURS.
Included: Bus fare, guidance, admission to museums and pick up at hotels and guesthouses
30 minutes before departure. Please note that the admission to the Blue Lagoon is not included.
05.06.-29.08.
DURATION : 11,5-12 HOURS.
Included: Bus fare, guidance, boat tour and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes
before departure. For clients who do not want to go on the boat tour we provide a voucher
for a 2 course lunch, coffee incl.
RE-24 - GULLFOSS GEYSIR DIRECT
All year daily at 12.30.
MON
pRICE
TUE
WED
THU
FRI
SAT
8600 ISK
1 June – 31 August daily at 17.00.
pRICE
WED
MON
TUE
WED
THU
FRI
pRICE
28900 ISK
SAT
SUN
DURATION : 10 HOURS.
Included : Bus fare, guidance, 1 hour snowmobile tour (2 persons per vehicle) and pick up at
hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure.
RE-81 – TAKE A WALK ON THE ICE SIDE
RE-34 - GULLFOSS GEYSIR DIRECT
TUE
All year daily at 09.00.
SUN
01.06.-31.08.
DURATION : 5,5 HOURS.
Included : Bus fare, guidance, admission to Geysir multimedia show and pick up at hotels and
guesthouses 30 minutes before departure.
MON
RE-80 – GLACIER SNOWMOBILE ADvENTURE
THU
FRI
SAT
8400 ISK
All year daily at 09.00.
MON
SUN
TUE
WED
THU
FRI
pRICE
19900 ISK
SAT
SUN
DURATION : 10 HOURS.
Included: Bus fare, guidance, 2,5-3 hours glacier walk, gear and safety equipment and pick up at
hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure.
01.06.-31.08.
DURATION : 5,5 HOURS.
Included : Bus fare, guidance and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure.
RE-44 - GULLFOSS - GEYSIR & LANGJöKULL SNOWMOBILING
1 January - 31 May & 1 September - 31 December on Thursdays, Fridays,
Saturdays & Sundays at 09.00. 1 June - 31 August daily at 09.00.
MON
TUE
WED
THU
FRI
pRICE
SAT
SUN
RE-62 - NORTHERN LIGHTS TOUR
WED
MON
TUE
WED
THU
FRI
pRICE
18000 ISK
SAT
SUN
01.07.-31.08.
DURATION : 11 - 12 HOURS.
Included: Bus fare, guidance, admission to Landmannalaugar and pick up at hotels and
guesthouses 30 minutes before departure.
Day
tours
Travel Agency
ing
most excit
to all the
icelanD
places in
1 January - 14 March & 16 October - 31 December at 21.00.
15 - March - 15 April & 15 September - 15 October at 22.00.
TUE
1 July – 31 August on Tuesdays, Thursdays & Sundays at 08.00.
24500 ISK
01.06.-31.08.
DURATION : 10 HOURS.
Included : Bus fare, guidance, 1 hour snowmobile tour (2 persons per vehicle) and pick up at
hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure.
MON
RE-92 - LANDMANNALAUGAR & SAGA vALLEY
THU
pRICE
FRI
SAT
Authorised by
Icelandic Tourist Board
4900 ISK
SUN
01.01. - 15.04. & 15.09. - 31.12.
DURATION : 2,5 - 3 HOURS.
Included : Bus fare, guidance and pick up at hotels and guesthouses 30 minutes before departure.
O
WE’LL TAKE
YOU THERE!
We’ll take
you there!
MORE DETAILS ON TOURS
IN OUR BROCHURES
BSÍ Bus Terminal / 101 Reykjavík /
+354 580 5400 / main@re.is / www.re.is
a
iceland
Special promotion
Luxury in the Country
Hotel Rangá, situated just 100 kilometers from Reykjavík, is Iceland’s only 4-star
luxury lodge. But don’t take our word for it: the hotel was recently runner-up as “best
wedding destination” in a competition run on Europe’s largest morning TV program
and it’s Iceland’s only member of the prestigious “Special Hotels of the World” chain.
Those looking for an indulgent retreat enjoy Hotel Rangá because of its proximity to
nature, its gourmet restaurant and the popular outdoor hot tubs. This July, the hotel
will open a new restaurant, kitchen, lounge, bar, massage area and meeting facilities.
It will also open a new wing, bringing the total room count to 52. Six upstairs suites
will represent all the continents in the “World Pavilion”. Each suite will be furnished
with the finest fittings available from South America, Australia, Africa, Asia and North
America, like giant cedar from Canada, cherry wood from Japan and ebony from Africa. This variety is what makes the hotel popular with locals and visitors to Iceland
alike. hotelranga.is
Equestrian and Outdoors
Lífland operates two stores, one in Iceland’s capital, Reykjavík, and one in Akureyri,
the biggest town in North Iceland. Their Reykjavík store is the biggest equestrian
store in Iceland, offering a wide variety of tack, both Icelandic made and imported.
Lífland offers clothing from leading equestrian clothing manufacturers in Europe such
as Mountain Horse in Sweden, Sonnenreiter and Georg Schumacher in Germany
and Tattini in Italy. “We are very happy to see a growing number of hikers and other
fans of outdoor life come into our stores to buy top quality clothing, sometimes for
a fraction of the price they would buy similar clothing in sports shops and outdoors
centers,” says Lífland’s owner Jón Gudmundsson.
If you are a horse enthusiast or simply the outdoors type, do not miss the chance of
visiting Lífland on your trip to Iceland. When you get home you can also visit their
web shop at lifland.is. Lífland’s staff will do their uttermost to help you find everything
you need for your horse.
Bringing the Past to Life
In 2001, a Viking-Age longhouse from around 930 AD was found during an archaeological
excavation in the center of Reykjavík. The ruins of the longhouse, which was inhabited until
about 1000 AD, and a part of a man-made structure—a turf wall, probably part of a field
enclosure—have been preserved and are now on display at the site where they were discovered. The wall is the oldest remains of human habitation that has been found in Iceland and
suggests that Reykjavík’s first settler, Ingólfur Arnason, may have arrived in the capital earlier
than 874 AD, which was previously established as the year of settlement. Objects from the Viking Age found in central Reykjavík and the island of Videy, such as glass beads and a walrus
tusk, are also on display. The title of the exhibition, Reykjavik 871± 2, comes from the dating
of the settlement layer of volcanic ash, formed in an eruption in 871 AD, with a two-year
margin of error. The Settlement Exhibition focuses on explaining how archeologists interpreted the various pieces of evidence found in the ruins, and through various multimedia
sources visitors can learn about the lives of the people who lived there and see a model of
the original longhouse. Adalstraeti 16. reykjavikmuseum.is
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THE PEARL
The Independent Online Edition
Five Best:
Tables at the top!
Sophie Lam, reporter for The Independent,
has writtena piece on “rooftop restaurants
that take dining to new heights”. We were
very pleased to see The Pearl included in
Sophies Top Five along with:
The LObsTer hOuse
humarhúsið
The Lobster house
takes pride in giving you the best,
with top-class cuisine and
highly praised service.
· The Portrait Restaurant (London)
· Sirrocco (Bangkok)
· Tower Top (Zanzibar)
· Maison Blanche (Paris)
You can read the article on
www.independent.co.uk.
HumarHusið
amtmannsstíg 1 / 101 reykjavík / Tel: +354 561 3303
www.humarhusid@humarhusid.is
The Pearl, Restaurant
Tel: (+354) 562 0200
Fax: (+354) 562 0207
E-mail: perlan@perlan.is
Website: www.perlan.is
Hringbrot
Our menu consists of a variety
of meat and fish dishes, and
lobster is our speciality.
a
iceland
Special promotion
Dressing Today’s Woman
Sleek, striking and simple, ELM’s new range for summer 2010 is set to turn heads.
Started back in 1999 by three female friends with a background in art and design,
ELM is proud of its brand statement designed by women for women and holds a firm
belief that in order to design for women you must understand women.
With designs inspired by Icelandic nature, ELM’s range is created using a wide selection of authentic fabrics from around the world; Peruvian cotton, Alpaca wool,
Spanish linen and Japanese taffeta.
ELM’s signature style is strong and elegant and its collections are sought after by
today’s modern thinking woman who likes to dress in a sophisticated manner but
with that extra edge. ELM’s flagship store is in Reykjavík’s Laugavegur and its range
can be found in 250 locations worldwide, including Browns and Liberty in London
and at New York’s Takashimaya.
Álafoss – Since 1896
One of the major attractions in Mosfellsbær, located some 20 minutes from Reykjavík by car, is the Álafoss factory outlet, where Iceland’s woolens industry was
launched. The store is housed in an old factory, which for decades was the premises
of the leading manufacturer and exporter of Icelandic woolens. The name Álafoss
is derived from the warm waterfall behind the factory, which drove its mills. In
homage to this heritage, the store exhibits a selection of old knitting machinery
and photographs from the early days, which form the basis of a museum. There
you can find a huge selection of woolen sweaters, ranging from traditional styles
to high fashion, along with woolen accessories, arts, crafts and souvenirs at reasonable prices.
Seeing Iceland in Style
Want to see the very best of Iceland in total comfort with one of its oldest and most
respected companies? Let Hreyfill Special Taxi Tours be your host. This company has
been catering to visitors’ traveling needs since 1943, which means in addition to Hreyfill’s selection of popular tours, you can meet your own wishes and customize your
own tour to fit in with your own schedule. Hreyfill can also arrange excursions at late
notice and have specially equipped cars for transporting passengers in wheelchairs.
What’s more, because Hreyfill caters for small groups between 1 and 8, there’s extra
flexibility built into your tour and you can always be sure of friendly and personal
service.
So, whether you want to explore the breathtaking glaciers and spectacular scenery,
visit the waterfalls and the Blue Lagoon, or explore the hidden places that Icelanders
love, Hreyfill Special Taxi Tours can help make your stay in Iceland memorable.
.
70
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Taste the freshness
of a farmer’s market
Housed in one of the city’s oldest
buildings, Fish Market uses
ingredients sourced directly from the
nation’s best farms, lakes, and sea to
create unforgettable Icelandic dishes
with a modern twist.
“They put on such a beautiful meal
for us. We had the most amazing
freshest fish I've ever had in my life.
It was all so perfectly cooked too...
Beautiful!”
Jamie Oliver’s Diary
AÐALSTRÆTI 12 | +354 578 8877
LUNCH WEEKDAYS 11:30 - 14:00
EVENINGS 18:00 - 23:30
FISHMARKET.IS
Authentic
INDIAN cUISINE
What’s
On
In Reykjavík
meets the best of Iceland’s
natural ingredients
Find out why top food experts rate AusturIndíafjelagið as one of Iceland’s five best
restaurants. It is probably because of the
skillful blending of Indian herbs and
spices with the best of local lamb, fish
and vegetables. This has given AusturIndíafjelagið its long standing success.
Reservations: 552 1630
For a complete guide to Reykjavík’s
restaurants, pick up a free copy of
What’s On In Reykjavík.
Hverfisgata 56
101 Reykjavík
austurindia@austurindia.is
www.austurindia.is
INDIAN R ESTAUR ANT
www.laprimavera.is
a
iceland
Special promotion
Farmers Market
Traditional—the new modern
The young Icelandic fashion design company Farmers Market has raised a few
eyebrows lately in the international design world for its high-quality knitwear and
concept. Established in 2005 by an Icelandic couple—a designer and a musician—
Farmers Market draws its design inspiration from the Icelandic heritage where, for
centuries, man and animals have cohabited in harmony challenged by harsh nature.
Its style has been described as revitalized Icelandic traditional design, combining
Nordic design elements with chic modernity. To buy Farmers Market clothes and accessories you can either visit their own funky little shop in the old harbor area (about
a 20 minute walk from the Reykjavík city center) or one of their resellers listed on
their website farmersmarket.is.
Blending Culture and Warmth
Searching for a special gift from Iceland that’s guaranteed to put a smile on someone’s face? Look
no further than Varma of Iceland. Produced by Glófi, they are a global, leading manufacturer and
distributer of Icelandic woolen goods.
Glófi ’s range incorporates both traditional Icelandic design and the latest styles. They offer a wide
selection of accessories, ranging from hats and scarves to shawls and gloves, and boast a stylish collection of sweaters and cardigans made from the very best Icelandic wool.
Their latest knitwear line ‘Blik’ is in collaboration with the designer Laufey Jónsdóttir. Inspiration
for this new collection came from the Icelandic folktale Thóruhólmi which tells of a farmer who
went fishing. As his rowing boat approached the island of Súgandisey he spied someone in the water
and rather than reeling in a fish he reeled in a young woman.
Blending Icelandic history and culture with the finest of craftsmanship, Glófi offers you a selection
of high quality woolen products. glofi.is
Celebrating Norway at Fjalakötturinn
Always wanting to introduce their guests to new culinary experiences, Fjalakötturinn
restaurant is proud to announce the theme of Norwegian cuisine from May 14 to 17,
culminating in a celebration of Norway’s national day on the 17th of May.
During this time a range of events will be on offer. Joining Fjalakötturinn will be top
Norwegian chef, Lars Lervik. As the son of one of the largest strawberry farmers in
Norway, he is no stranger to this delicious fruit and is adept and creative at producing
an exotic range of strawberry dishes. In addition, Lervik is a master with ice-cream.
Those with a sweet tooth should look no further.
Throughout this period Fjalakötturinn will be offering both traditional and modern
Norwegian fare. Of course, not only will the focus be on a superb dining experience
but you can look forward to great entertainment, this time with an authentic Norwegian flavor. Fjalakötturinn looks forward to entertaining you at these special events.
72
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the
s
se
sea
ea
a
and a delicios
cioss lob
llobs
lobst
lobster
b
The Seashore Restaurant in the village of Stokkseyri
is an enchanted place of delight
Spör - Ragnheiður Ágústsdóttir
at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri
<Only 45 minutes drive from Reykjavík
Reykjavík
Stokkseyri
tel. +354-4831550 · www.fjorubordid.is
ANTON&BERGUR
Eyrabakki
traditional icelandic lunch buffet every day
www.bluelagoon.com
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Eat, Meat & Fish
Reykjavík’s chefs know how to feed their people. Here is a guide to the vie gourmande in the capital and beyond
101 Hótel Vogue, GQ, Elle and Condé Nast
all agree—when you come to Reykjavík there
is only one destination for a truly hip night
out: the restaurant and lounge at 101 Hótel.
Deriving its name from the most stylish postal
code in the North Atlantic, 101’s casual dining
room is a chic but relaxed getaway with clean,
elegant lines, heated oak floors and a sizeable
communal fireplace—the ideal spot for a pickme-up before the opera next door, one of the
more adventurous three-course meals in the
capital or even fabulous drinks to kick-start a
big night on the town. Much like Indian/Icelandic chef Gunnvant Ármannsson, the kitchen at
101 represents the best of Iceland infused with
intriguing flavors from abroad. This summer
Ármannsson puts his spicy roots into the menu
with warm flavors like Vindaloo chicken, homemade mango chutney and even coconut and
ginger crème brûlée. 101 also maintains strong
ties to the harbor and local farmers, meaning
the kitchen offers the freshest catch of the day,
along with superior Icelandic lamb, arctic char
and langoustine lobster. Unique food, swish
design, laid-back atmo… this place is a dish.
Kitchen open until 11—kicking bar after hours.
580 0101. 101hotel.is
Austur India Fjelagid For a rich sensory
experience head to Harrison Ford’s favorite,
Austur India Fjelagid. It is off the beaten track
and one of its finest features is its lack of
pretense and down-to-earth atmosphere. We
recommend starting with the Prawn Pollichithu,
tiger prawns sautéed in chili, cumin, coriander,
ginger and garlic or Kallimirchi Lobster with
freshly ground black pepper and coriander. For
the main course, choose one of their famous
tandoori dishes, such as the Hariyali Salmon,
Gosht Charminar or Khalmi Kebab or indulge in
their sauce dishes like Kozzi Mappas or Lalmas.
The food is a harmonious blend of the freshest
local ingredients with freshly grounded spices
from India. To accompany your meal try their
Meeta Naan, bread stuffed with sweetened
coconut and raisins and the tomato and spinach
rice. There are plenty of choices for vegetarians
as well. A local favorite for16 years.
552 1630. austurindia.is
Café Catalina Staying in Kópavogur, looking for something off the usual tourist radar,
feel like watching some football or kicking off
on the (ballroom) dance floor? Next door to
Reykjavík, local hangout Café Catalina doubles
as a restaurant, café, pub and dance hall. For an
easygoing and relaxed bite, this is your place.
The menu features Icelandic dishes along with
74
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burgers and sandwiches from the grill, perfect
with an Egill’s Gull draft. According to owner
Sigrídur Samsonardóttir, the Icelandic meat
soup and fiskibollur fish balls are favorites
among the many regulars. The dish of the day
(1,200 ISK / EUR 7 / USD 9.50 / GBP 6 including soup, bread and coffee) is served between
11:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. Café Catalina stays
open until 1 a.m. during the week and 3 a.m.
on Fridays and Saturdays, with live bands playing music to dance the night away to.
554 2166. catalina.is
Dill Opened in 2009, Dill restaurant of the
Nordic House may have just celebrated its first
birthday, but it already sits atop the mountain
as one of the most interesting and exciting
restaurants in town. Led by chef-sommelier
duo Gunnar Gislason-Ólafur Ólafsson, it is the
modern, local flavors of New Nordic Food that
Dill excels in. Everything from the cutlery to
the sommelier’s suit is of Nordic origin; you
won’t even find olive oil in this kitchen. In the
daytime Dill serves relaxed brasserie style lunch
and coffee, in the evening there is a 7 course
set fine-dining menu, including champagne
and coffee. Fried plaice with the namesake
Dill, artichokes with seaweed, smoked haddock
and blue mussels, and to finish an almond cake
with cinnamon cream…Is your mouth watering
yet? And what better setting than the Nordic
House, designed by renowned Finnish architect
Alvar Aalto and located in the Vatnsmyri plains,
the view over downtown Reykjavik is simply
breathtaking.
552 1522. dillrestaurant.is
Fish Market Take the sophistication of
New York and pair it with the elegance of
Paris and the trendiness of Tokyo, and you
have the formula for Fish Market’s unbeatable atmosphere. Match that with its equally
spectacular haute cuisine with an Asian flair
and you have the recipe for a restaurant that’s
here to stay. The crown jewel of its kitchen is
the nine-course tasting menu whose highlights
include miso-marinated black cod served with
tiger prawns and apricots, king crab with chili
and lemongrass, and arguably the most tender
quail on the planet complemented by a delicate barbeque sauce. The restaurant has also
earned a well-deserved reputation for its sushi
and sashimi, as fresh as it is elegant. Located in
the heart of downtown, no detail is spared. Tea
lights illuminate the soft, rich furnishings, and
highlights of bamboo and Asian flora create a
trendy atmosphere to which the city’s glitterati
come flocking. Save room for the sorbet: green
tea, lychee and blood orange. The perfect
scoops are almost too beautiful to eat.
578 8877. fishmarket.is
Fiskbúdin Hafberg The largest fish shop
in Iceland, with its 12 meter long counter
displaying a full range of local fish—in addition to your staple cod and halibut, there is
char, plaice and other rarer finds—is a sight in
itself. According to owner Geir Vilhjálmsson,
the most common reaction is simply “wow”.
For the self-caterer, everything from dried fish
to the dark rye bread traditionally served with
the fish stew plokkfiskur is available. After
15 years in the fish business, the family run
Hafberg has now opened a restaurant too.
The menu is short and simple, with the most
popular order being a daily deal with their
famous fish and lobster soup, dish of the day
and coffee for 1,290 ISK (EUR 7.50 / USD 10 /
GBP 6.50). A perfect lunch spot after a stroll
in the botanical gardens or the Reykjavík zoo,
Hafberg also offers take out—if you plan to
picnic in the Laugardalur park, fish and chips
might just be the perfect outdoors lunch. And
with the fishmongers one wall away from the
kitchen, the fish is bound to be fresh.
588 8686
Fjalakötturinn With a delicious selection of appetizers (crunchy shredded crab,
foamy scallop and fennel broth, and slithers
of smoked duck breast with sweet onion paste
and cinnamon toast) to get you started, the
mellow jazz-infused atmosphere of Fjalakötturinn’s dining room is a warm setting to
have your taste buds tickled in style. While
Fjalakötturinn is by no means a cheap meal, it
is fantastic value given the care and attention
poured into each dish by the restaurant’s chefs
Haukur Gröndal and Gunnar Thór Sigthórsson. And the new menu is full of delightful
surprises, from the perfectly textured lobster
with lime and cucumber broth, to the astonishing blood-pudding with hazelnut puree,
to variations on the classic lamb steak and
salmon fillet, to the excellent venison with
carrot crème-brûlée, to the mouth-watering
selection of chocolate deserts (the restaurant’s
trademark Chocolate in 6 Different Ways). The
palate is constantly satisfied and surprised,
and with a carefully selected wine list (winner
of a Wine Spectator Award) each dish finds a
harmonious accompaniment. This is imaginative, technically flawless Nordic cuisine at its
best. 514 6060. fjalakotturinn.is
(Continues on pg. 76) »
d.
Gourmet
Fish shop and
restaurant
z
M E N U
å
Soup of the day
∑
Fish
∑
Coffee
Only
Ikr. 1290
Gnoðavogur 44. tel.: +354 588 8686
ExquisiTE icELAndic food
Meat and fish, hamburgers and other fast food
An elegant hall for social functions on lease.
A small casino for entertainment.
Live music (dancing) every weekend from11pm - 3am.
Live soccer matches on big screen TV
Opening hours: Monday-Thursday 11.00 - 01.00, Fridays: 11.00 - 03.00,
Saturdays: 12.00 - 03.00,
Sundays: 13.00 - 01.00
The kitchen is open
daily till 21.00
Hamraborg 11, 200 Kópavogur Tel: 554 2166 www.catalina.is
a
iceland
Special promotion
Eat, Meat & Fish
» (Continued from pg. 74)
Fjörubordid Lobster. That’s what the dining
experience at Fjörubordid (The Seashore) is all
about, where Icelandic lobster, or langoustine,
is served delicately grilled and drizzled with
melted herb butter and a spritz of lemon. As a
starter, its flavor infuses the delicate creaminess
of the lobster soup, the self-proclaimed ‘Best
in the Republic of Iceland.’ Although you can
also find a tender lamb filet or vegetable-filled
puff pastry on the main course menu, lobster
is what makes this seaside cozy eatery in the
village of Stokkseyri, 60 kilometers from Reykjavík, so popular with locals and visitors alike.
483 1550. fjorubordid.is
Hótel Rangá You could start with the seafood soup, laden with chunks of fresh salmon,
monkfish and prawns. Maybe you’ll sip some
of the hotel’s own-label beer, Hrammur. Then
you could try Hótel Rangá’s take on the surf
and turf, featuring scallops drizzled in lobster
oil and Icelandic mountain lamb. But whatever
you do, leave room for the chocolate and skyr
cake, a signature concoction of rich chocolate
and velvety skyr-based cheesecake for which
locals are happy to drive the 100 kilometers
from Reykjavík to taste. After your gourmet
meal, do like the King of Sweden on his visit
and enjoy a drink in one of the hotel’s outdoor
hotpots. Then sit back, relax and start planning
your next trip to this luxurious enclave in south
Iceland. 487 5700. hotelranga.is
Humarhúsid From its perch in a historical
timber house on the hill overlooking bustling
Laekjargata, the haute cuisine kitchen of
Humarhúsid (The Lobster House) brings you its
namesake in every delectable form: bisque, pan
fried and grilled. The menu offers up a host of
other local ingredients prepared to highlight
delicate, complex flavors, including arctic char,
smoked eel, lamb and reindeer. Enjoy the
candlelit dining room decorated with antique
furniture and accent pieces that speak to the
house’s historical provenance. A romantic
evening begins with a glass of Veuve Clicquot,
creamy lobster soup, followed by beef confit
and the pièce de résistance: the house’s grilled
lobster tails on the shell served with drawn
garlic butter. Add an extensive wine cellar and
sinful pistachio crème brûlée and it’s clear that
Humarhúsid brings Iceland’s best to the fine
dining table. 561 3303. humarhusid.is
Icelandic Fish & Chips The humble cod
just got trendy. Icelandic Fish & Chips, a selfstyled ‘organic bistro’ by Reykjavík’s harbor,
has garnered a loyal following since it opened
three years ago. It’s obvious what this simple
eatery, with both eat-in and take-away service,
features on its menu. But it’s the details that
make it so popular. The fish itself, not just cod
76
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but catfish, haddock, plaice or whatever the
fisherman has just hauled in, is battered in spelt
and barley flour and cooked in canola oil, rich in
Omega 3 fatty acids. The chips are Maldon-salted wedges of baked potatoes, cooked in olive
oil and herbs. And instead of fat-laden tartar
sauce, patrons can choose from a variety of
skyronnaises—creamy dips made from Icelandic
skyr. Those interested in a larger meal will enjoy
both whatever rich soup of the day is on offer
(served with spelt bread and hummus), and
the whipped skyr and berry dessert, served in a
champagne flute. This is healthy, tasty food at a
good price in a charming environment.
511 1118. fishandchips.is
Jómfrúin If Gallup was to poll Reykjavíkians
about their favorite Danish open-face sandwich
restaurant, Jómfrúin would win hands down.
Walk down Laekjargata street at lunch, peek
into Jómfrúin’s windows and see for yourself:
the restaurant that is a little touch of Denmark
is packed. “It’s popular because of Iceland’s
relationship to Denmark,” says Jakob Jakobsson,
the restaurant’s owner, referring to Iceland’s former status as a Danish colony. “We have quick
service, great food, and the location is good.”
Don’t take Jakobsson’s word for it. Try it yourself, but make sure to order the ‘H.C. Andersen’:
rye bread with crisp bacon, liver pâté, port aspic,
horseradish and the ubiquitous butter spread
across most of Jómfrúin’s open-face sandwiches.
551 0100, jomfruin.is
Kaffi Duus On a roadtrip in Reykjanes?
Whether it’s lunch, coffee or dinner, stop by at
Duus by the Keflavík marina. The view from the
cafe is lovely, with the waves rolling right up
to the restaurant and the mountains lining the
horizon. As for the food, Duus will keep your
belly full around the clock. There is a continental
breakfast, or for lunch the popular buffet offers
various dishes (fish, meat and veg), with soup
and salad bars included. In the afternoon, Duus
caters for coffee drinkers. For a dose of culture,
visit the neighbors—the Duus Cultural Centre,
parts of which date back to 1877, also comprises the Reykjanesbaer Art Gallery, Reykjanes
Maritime Museum and the Museum of Heritage.
Dinnertime a la carte has pasta and burgers, but
fish is really the prime pick here. The favorite is
seafood trio a la Duus, featuring three types of
local fish with lobster and shrimp. On the weekends, live music makes Duus a popular hangout
amongst locals and visitors alike. 421 7080,
kaffiduus@simnet.is
La Primavera “Start with the beef carpaccio,” says Leifur Kolbeinsson, owner and chef of
La Primavera. “It’s been on the menu since we
started.” An excellent choice, and good to know
that as the Italian restaurant’s menu evolves,
this old stand-by will remain. When you dine
at La Primavera, located in the heart of town
on Austurstraeti, you can totally rely on their
seasonal offers of the best Icelandic fish and
meat available at any given time. La Primavera’s choice of fresh seafood is mouthwatering
and their Icelandic lamb is simply adorable. This
is an Italian restaurant with a soul and as good
as they get. 561 8555. laprimavera.is
Lava Dominating the Reykjanes peninsula
landscapes, Lava provides the name and the
decor of the restaurant at the Blue Lagoon,
the country’s most popular tourist destination.
Opened in 2007, Lava Restaurant is built into
the side of a cliff, with a striking black lava
wall projecting into the stylish, modern setting. A glass staircase leads up to the Lava Bar,
perfect for a cocktail, and a rooftop viewing
deck provides a beautiful view of the lagoon.
As for the menu, Lava offers fresh Icelandic
ingredients with an international flair. Nearby
fishing village Grindavík provides the kitchen
with the freshest catch, so it’s no wonder that
seafood is the most popular choice among
guests. Try Minke Whale with wasabi, ginger
and sweet soya for a starter, continue with
pan-fried catfish with lime and chili, then finish
with the signature dessert of blueberry sorbet,
warm chocolate cake and white chocolate skyr
mousse. It may be hard to leave the luxurious
soak at the Blue Lagoon spa, but with a menu
like this you will feel just as pampered out of
the water as in. 420 8815. bluelagoon.com
Perlan On the Öskjuhlíd hill, under the glass
dome of Reykjavik’s landmark building, sits
restaurant Perlan (Icelandic for Pearl). The location ensures the best views of the capital area
bar none, the restaurant rotates to provide
a full 360° panorama every two hours—just
remember to check where you are seated when
leaving the table, as the centre of the restaurant stays still, you might accidentally sit next
to a stranger. Spectacular as the view is, the
food does not lose to the landscape. Known for
its cooperation with Michelin-starred restaurants abroad—not to mention the long row of
trophies they’ve brought home from culinary
competitions—the team led by chef de cuisine
Elmar Kristjánsson serves an international menu
with Icelandic ingredients and influences. The
Perlan culinary year is divided into four seasons:
In January, there is a low-budget menu with 4
courses for a moderate price. In April, it is time
for the exciting summer menu, in the fall it is
game season and from November onwards,
Perlan offers its famous Christmas Buffet.
562 0200. perlan.is a
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77
DAY TOURS
wE‘LL TAKE
YOU ThERE!
DAY TOURS TO ALL ThE mOST
ExcITInG PLAcES In IcELAnD
RE-04 - 09:00
The Golden circle
All Year
MON
TUE
WED
THU
FRI
SAT
09-17
SUN
PRIcE
9800 ISK
Don’t miss out on the fascinating experience the Golden Circle gives you.
On this tour, you can walk around the world-famous Geysir area, a geothermal field where hot
springs are in abundance, geysers explode and pools of mud bubble. Visit the magnificent Gullfoss
waterfall along with a visit to Þingvellir national park, the original site of the oldest existing parliament
in the world. There the great Atlantic rift is clearly visible, a rift that is slowly pulling Iceland apart
along tectonic plates.
Book now on www.re.is
TImETABLE Valid from 1 June - 31 August 2010
TImETABLE
From Reykjavík From Blue Lagoon From Blue Lagoon
to Blue Lagoon to Reykjavík
to KEF Airport
08:30
10:00
11:00
12:00
13:00
14:00
15:00
16:00
17:00
18:00
11:15
12:15
13:15
14:15
15:15
16:15
17:15
18:15
19:00
21:00
11:15
12:15
14:15
16:15
21:00
From KEF Airport
to Blue Lagoon
08:30
10:15
13:00
15:45
17:00
Book now on www.re.is
Valid from 1 January - 31 may & 1 September - 31 December 2010
From Reykjavík From Blue Lagoon From Blue Lagoon
to Blue Lagoon to Reykjavík
to KEF Airport
09:00
10:00
11:00
12:00
13:00
14:00
15:00
16:00
17:00
18:00
11:15
12:15
13:15
14:15
15:15
16:15
17:15
18:15
19:00
21:00
Relax at the Blue Lagoon
There is no better way to start or end your Iceland adventure than by bathing in the famous Blue Lagoon.
You can either board the bus at BSÍ Bus Terminal in Reykjavík or at Keflavík Airport.
The drive takes about 40 min. from Reykjavík and 20 min. from Keflavík Airport.
78
atlantica
Book now by calling 580 5450
12:00
14:15
From KEF Airport
to Blue Lagoon
16:45
Book now by calling 580 5450
Flexible
All Year
Return
bus fare
MON
TUE
3200 ISK
WED
THU
FRI
Return bus
fare and
admission
SAT
SUN
6300 ISK
r*
fe
Of 0610
t
5
e
rn AT1
te e:
In t cod
l
ia un
ec isco
Sp nline d
r*
fe
Of 0610
t
5
e
rn AT0
te e:
In t cod
l
ia un
ec isco
Sp nline d
O
O
RE-15 - 09:00
RE-05 - 13:00
Reykjavík Grand Excursion
All Year
MON
TUE
WED
13-16
THU
FRI
SAT
Price
SUN
3900 ISK
Price
South Shore Adventure
All Year MON TUE
4900 ISK
Get a detailed and comprehensive introduction to Reykjavík´s past and present. Reykjavík´s
unique proximity to nature, with salmon river Elliðaá running through it, green valleys and
outdoor swimming pools, makes this city second to none in the world.
Book now on www.re.is
WED
THU
09-19
FRI
SAT
Price
SUN
12300 ISK
Price
15400 ISK
Iceland´s South coast is ideal for nature lovers of all kind. Spectacular scenery, striking
waterfalls, stunning views of glaciers, black lava sand coastline, charming villages and
impressive rock formations.
Book now on www.re.is
RE-08 - 09:00
RE-24 - 12:30
RE-06 - 09:00
RE-44 - 09:00
Saga circle
Gullfoss - Geysir Direct
The wonders of Reykjanes
& Blue Lagoon
Gullfoss - Geysir &
Langjökull Snowmobiling
All Year
All Year
09-18
MON
SUN
SAT
SUN
This tour is perfect for all Saga enthusiasts.
We take you around the area where one
of many of the Icelandic Sagas took place.
En route you will enjoy spectacular
landscape, hot springs and waterfalls.
Come and follow in the footsteps of the
Vikings with us.
Price
14500 ISK
Book now by calling 580 5450
RE-16/RE-17 - 08:00
The wonders of
Snæfellsnes with cruise *
Summer
WED
SAT
THU
FRI
SAT
Seasonal
SUN
In one afternoon you spend your time
encountering across-section of Iceland’s
natural wonders and geological
phenomena: the historical Þingvellir
national park, Geysir geothermal area
and the amazing Gullfoss waterfall.
Don´t miss out on this one.
Price
8600 ISK
Book now by calling 580 5450
RE-80 - 09:00
Glacier Snowmobile Adventure
All Year
MON
SUN
*Operation starts 5 June.
24000 ISK
WED
09-19
TUE
MON
WED
THU
Book now by calling 580 5450
TUE
WED
THU
FRI
SAT
SUN
Take a ride to the top of the world on
a snowmobile and see the amazing
Sólheimajökull from above the larger
Mýrdalsjökull glacier and be pleasantly
surprised by the magnificent views.
Being on top of a glacier is a unique
and thrilling experience!
Price
28900 ISK
Book now by calling 580 5450
All Year
09-17
FRI
SAT
SUN
THU
FRI
SAT
SUN
09-19
*
Don´miss out on discovering bubbling
hot springs, dramatic lava fields,
migratory birding cliffs, lonesome
lighthouses and last but not least the
Blue Lagoon*.
Get in touch with some of Iceland´s most
famous and exciting natural phenomena.
Pièce de resistance - a exhilarating 1 hour
snowmobile tour across the endless white
snowfields will not leave you intact.
*Admission to the Blue Lagoon is not incl.
*Daily 1 June - 31 August.
Price
13500 ISK
Book now by calling 580 5450
Summer
MON
TUE
24500 ISK
Book now by calling 580 5450
Take a walk on the Ice Side
All Year
17-22:30
WED
THU
FRI
SAT
MON
SUN
Three of Iceland´s most famous and
magical places - Gullfoss, the queen of
Icelandic waterfalls, spouting springs at
Geysir geothermal area and Þingvellir
national park will leave serene and
lasting memories.
*Operation starts 1 June.
Price
Price
RE-81 - 09:00
RE-34 - 17:00
Gullfoss - Geysir Direct *
08-20
For nature lovers this is a “must do” tour.
Lush valleys and lava fields with soft moss,
abundant birdlife, diverse flora, craters
and salmon rivers characterize this part
of Iceland.
Price
TUE
12:30-18
8400 ISK
Book now by calling 580 5450
TUE
WED
THU
09-19
FRI
SAT
SUN
Want to see and feel something completely different? Why not take a walk on
a glacier and experience a surface that you
have never been able to walk on before!
Take a tour with us and try something
new - a once in a lifetime experience for
most.
Price
19900 ISK
Book now by calling 580 5450
* In order to activate the special internet offers you need to enter the online discount codes when booking on www.re.is.
Special internet offers on this page can be booked through 30 June 2010.
For further information & details on tours please refer
to our brochures.
Travel Agency
Authorised by
Icelandic Tourist Board
BSÍ Bus Terminal / 101 Reykjavík /
O
+354 580 5400 / main@re.is / www.re.is
atlantica
79
a
iceland
Facts about
Iceland
LAND: Iceland is an island of 103,000
square kilometers (39,756 square miles) and
4,970 kilometers of coastline, making it the
16th largest island in the world. Only Madagascar, Britain and Cuba are larger single independent island states. The country’s highest
peak, Hvannadalshnjúkur, rises 2,110 meters
above sea level. Roughly ten percent of the
country is covered in glaciers, including Vatnajökull, the largest in Europe. But get here
quick before the glaciers melt: Sólheimajökull,
an outlet glacier of the Mýrdalsjökull ice cap,
south Iceland, is presently retreating at a rate
of approximately 100 meters per year.
HISTORY: It is believed that the first permanent settler in Iceland was Ingólfur Arnarson, a
Norwegian Viking who settled in A.D. 874 and
named his home Reykjavík (smoky bay) after
the steam rising from the surrounding countryside. In 930, Icelanders founded Althingi, which
still functions as the legislative body, making it
the world’s oldest parliament. In 1262, Iceland
lost its independence to Norway and in 1380
came under Danish control with Norway. On
17 June 1944, Iceland became independent of
Denmark in a ceremony that took place at
Thingvellir, the old site of Althingi, now a
UNESCO World Heritage Site.
ENERGY: Because of its location on the
Mid-Atlantic Ridge, Iceland is a hotbed of
volcanic and geothermal activity: thirty volcanoes have erupted in the past two centuries.
Natural hot water supplies the majority of
the population with inexpensive, pollutionfree heating.
GOVERNMENT: The country is governed by
Althingi (parliament), which sits in Reykjavík,
whose members are elected every four years.
The President is also elected every four years,
but the Prime Minister is primarily responsible
for the day-to-day politics. Jóhanna Sigurdardóttir is Iceland’s current PM (2009) and Ólafur
Ragnar Grímsson (1996) is serving his third term
as president.
PEOPLE: Iceland’s population is about
313,000, about six percent of which are foreign-born. It’s growing at a rate of 2.6 percent
per year. Only 2 percent of Icelanders live in
rural areas, the rest live in urban areas, and the
majority, about 75 percent, live in the capital
area of Reykjavík. But Iceland’s population
more than doubles every year thanks to the
more than 500,000 travelers who visit the
country annually.
TIME: Despite its mid-Atlantic location,
Iceland observes Greenwich Mean Time yearround.
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LANGUAGE: Icelanders are of Norse and Celtic ancestry, and have lived for more than a millennium far away from other countries, which has
provided geneticists with a key body of DNA. The
language, Icelandic, is close to that of literature
(the Sagas) in the 12th century. Most people can
also speak English. Icelanders maintain a patronymic naming system, which means that someone’s first name is followed by his or her father’s
name and the suffix ‘son’ or ‘dóttir’. For example,
Kolbrún Pálsdóttir is Kolbrún, the daughter of
Páll.
CHURCH: Church and state are not separated
in Iceland. The National Church of Iceland, a
Lutheran body, is the state church to which 82 percent of Icelanders belong. There is, however, one
Roman Catholic cathedral in Reykjavík to serve
the just over 2 percent Catholic population.
ECONOMY: Iceland’s GDP per capita is USD
45,000. Aside from fishing and fisheries products,
the country’s other main export is aluminum,
while primary imports include machinery and
equipment, petroleum products, and food and
textiles. Less than one percent of the land is arable
(most is used for grazing) and between one and
two percent of Iceland’s population is engaged
in agriculture. Iceland produces vegetables, meat,
fish and dairy, but imports other foodstuffs. Iceland’s currency is the Icelandic Króna (ISK).
HEALTH: Life expectancy for women is 83.0
years and 79.4 for men, one of the highest in the
world. a
We’ll take
you there!
relax and enjoy your trip!
Fast, frequent and on schedule
every day of the week.
priCe
2500
iSk
o/W
Transfer from Keflavík
Airport to most hotels and
guesthouses in Reykjavík
or vice versa.
priCe
1950
iSk
o/W
Transfer from Keflavík
Airport to BSÍ Bus Terminal
or vice versa.
BSÍ Bus Terminal
101 Reykjavík
+ 354 580 5400
main@re.is / www.flybus.is
Book now on www.re.is
Travel Agency
Authorised by
Icelandic Tourist Board
Book now by calling 580 5450
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Icelandic wool
– there is nothing like it
Look out for the Icelandic Wool and Ístex
pattern books and get to know the magic of Lopi!
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