Instructions and free patterns

Instructions and free patterns
www.mybernette.com
Sewing instructions for “Edgy
“Edgy”
Edgy” project
Skirt
You'll need
1m (1 1/8 yd) black taffeta, 1.5m (1 2/3 yd) wide
0.5m (20") cream-colored fabric, 1.5m (1 2/3 yd) wide
0.5m (20") tulle
Invisible zipper in black, 22cm (9") long
20 small hooks
0.7m (28") satin ribbon, 3mm (1/8") wide
3.5m (4 yd) satin ribbon, 6mm (1/4") wide
16 eyelets, 5mm (1/4") diameter
Invisible zipper foot
Thread to match the color of the fabric
Fabric recommendation
Fairly firm, crisp skirt fabric such as taffeta.
Good to know
The tulle, which is worked with the cream-colored material, is meant to soften the contrast
between the light and dark fabrics. If using another color combination you may wish to leave it
out.
Cutting out
Black fabric:
1x center-front to fabric fold with 4cm (1 ½") hem allowance
2x side-front with 1.5cm (5/8") hem allowance
1x back to fabric fold with 1.5cm (5/8") hem allowance
1x waistband to fabric fold
1x facing for back lace embellishment
2x side hem facing
Cream-colored fabric:
2x front inserts
1x back insert to fabric fold
1x back hem facing
How to proceed:
1. Stitch the two front dividing seams down to the marking. Neaten the seam allowances
and press them apart (to the wrong side at the parts of the seam remaining open).
2. Fold the hem edge of the cream-colored front inserts under twice, then press and
topstitch. Pin both inserts under the skirt front and stitch them on 5mm (1/4") from the
edge.
3. Stitch the two back darts and press them toward the center-back.
4. With right sides together, stitch the facing for the lace embellishment to the skirt back.
5. Close the right side seam.
6. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise wrong sides together and press the fold. Reopen
the waistband and pin one waistband edge right sides together to the top edge of the
skirt. Stitch the waistband to the skirt and press the seam allowances toward the
waistband.
7. Insert the invisible zipper into the left side seam (zipper-top flush with the folded edge of
the waistband), then close the side seam below the zipper. Detailed instructions on
inserting an invisible zipper are included in the instructions that come with the presser
foot.
8. Fold the waistband into its pre-pressed half again. Neaten the inside edge, then stitch in
the ditch from the right side.
9. With right sides together, stitch the side hem facings to the hem edge (simultaneously
sewing the facing over the facing for the lace embellishment). Trim the seam allowances
and the corner, then fold the facings to the wrong side of the skirt. Press the edges.
Secure the facings with the blindstitch or by hand. Attach 8 eyelets on each side.
10. Place the back hem facing on the cream-colored insert right sides together and sew.
Fold the facing inwards and neaten the still-open edge of the insert.
11. Place the insert under the back of the skirt, pin, then topstitch 2.5cm (1") from the
edge.
12. Thread the wider satin ribbon through the eyelets crosswise, starting at the bottom.
Secure the ends of the satin ribbon on the wrong side with a few hand-stitches.
13. Hand-sew-on five small hooks on each side of the front inserts. Thread the narrow
satin ribbon through crosswise. Here too, secure the ends of the ribbon by hand on
the wrong side.
Bag
You'll need
-
0.2m (8") black fabric
0.2m (8") lining
2m (2 ¼ yd) black satin ribbon
Cream-colored fabric remnant
“Mia” bag handle (Prym)
“Pia” bag closure (Prym)
0.5m (20") lace trim
18 eyelets
Sewing thread to match the color of the fabric, and “Extra Strong” sewing thread by Mettler
Fabric recommendation
Fairly firm, crisp fabrics such as velvet, corduroy, etc.
How to proceed
1. Cut out the pieces as per the pattern (1cm (3/8") seam allowances are already included).
2. Sew the cream-colored insert between the two front sections.
3. Sew the lace trim onto the seam and attach the eyelets on both sides. Thread the satin
ribbon crosswise through the eyelets. The top and bottom ends will also be sewn into the
seam later on.
4. Close the base seam in the outer fabric. With right sides together, pin and straight-stitch the
side sections to the bag 1cm (3/8") from the edge.
5. Sew the lining in exactly the same way, but leaving an opening in the base seam for turning.
6. Stitch bag and lining together at the top edge with right sides facing.
7. Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the lining, then stitch the opening closed.
Edgestitch the top edge of the bag.
8. Slip the finished bag into the closure. Hand-stitch the bag with the Extra Strong thread to
the closure through the top perforation in the closure.
9. Attach the handle.
Corset belt
Sizes 38 European (8 US, 10 UK)
You'll
You' ll need
30cm (12") fabric (by at least 90cm (1yd) fabric width)
30cm (12") lining
30cm (12") “Permasteif” or Coutil
Cream-colored fabric remnant, and black tulle for center-front section
2m (2 ¼ yd) black satin ribbon, 10mm (3/8") wide
Two 90cm (1-yd) cream-colored satin ribbons, 1x 6mm (1/4") wide, 1x 10mm (3/8")
wide
16 hooks
20cm (8") hook tape
50cm (20") grosgrain ribbon, 15mm (3/5") wide
45cm (18") decorative lace trim with flowers
2m (2 ¼ yd) plastic stiffening tape
Thread to match the color of the fabric
Fabric recommendation
Satin fabric, or fabric with a slight sheen.
Good to know
The “Permasteif” or Coutil provides the basic structure, helping to stiffen the belt, while the
boning helps hold it in shape. The stiff fabric is included between the outer shell and lining. The
“Permasteif” or Coutil can be replaced by a different firm fabric.
Cutting out
Cut out all pattern pieces – outer fabric and lining – from “Permasteif” or Coutil, adding 1cm
(3/8") seam allowances.
Important: Copy all letters on the sides and mark the top edge of the fabric pieces. This will help
you to assemble the sections correctly.
How
How to proceed
1.
Stitch the Coutil, lining and outer-fabric sections together in each case, leaving just the
center-back open. Press the seam allowances together toward the center. That's the
three layers of the belt ready - Coutil, lining, and outer shell.
Inserting the boning
2.
Cut some stiffening tape for each seam (approx. 2-3mm (1/8") shorter than the length of
the seam to prevent it protruding).
3.
Slip the tape under the seam allowances of the Coutil layer and edge-stitch to secure.
Working the outer fabric
4.
Sew the satin ribbons and the decorative tape onto the dividing seams of the outer
fabric.
Use grosgrain ribbon to cover the center-front seams. The grosgrain ribbon is sturdier
than the satin ribbon, providing a more suitable base for sewing on the hooks.
Stitch the hook tape to the center-back of the outer fabric. To do this, cut the hook tape
to the required length, neatening the cut edge with a zigzag stitch. Insert the tape with the
hook placket under the outer fabric (invisible on the right side) and with the eyelet placket
protruding.
5.
6.
Assembling the parts/completing the belt
7.
Place lining on outer shell with right sides together and stitch top edge. Turn lining and
outer shell right sides out.
8.
Slip the Coutil section between the lining and the outer shell.
9.
Turn the outer-shell hem over onto the Coutil and secure by hand.
10. Hand-sew the lining to the hook tape, turning it under at hem.
11. Sew the hooks onto the grosgrain ribbon. Thread the satin ribbon crosswise through the
eyelets from top to bottom.
Lampshade
You'll need
0.35m (14") black taffeta, 1.5m (1 2/3 yd) wide
0.35m (14") cream-colored fabric, 1.5m (1 2/3 yd) wide
0.30m (12") black tulle
2m (2 ¼ yd) leather trim or satin ribbon, approx. 3mm (1/8") wide
0.70m (28") velvet ribbon, 2.5cm (1") wide, with eyelets 3-5mm (1/8-1/6") in
diameter
0.70m (28") frilled trim
2 rings for the lampshade, 30cm (12") diameter
Threads to match the color of the fabric
Fabric recommendation
Fairly firm, crisp fabric such as taffeta
Good to know
The lampshade can be sewn in different sizes. Simply measure the circumference of the
rings and adjust the total width of the fabric panels to match this circumference.
We recommend adding a hem allowance of 2cm (4/5") at the top and bottom edge for
inserting the rings.
Cutting out
1x lampshade back in black fabric, 62cm x 30cm (24 1/2" by 12")
1x lampshade front in cream-colored fabric, 34cm x 30cm (13 ½" by 12")
2x tulle strip in black, 12cm x 30cm (4 ¾" by 12")
2x frilled trim in black, 35cm (14") each
How to proceed
1.
Sew the tulle strips to each side of the cream-colored fabric.
Now sew the frilled trim and the eyelet tape onto both inside edges of the tulle.
2.
3.
4.
With right sides facing, stitch the black fabric to the tulle sections on both sides,
closing the lampshade into a ring. Topstitch the seams.
Insert the rings on both hems. Fold hem allowances under twice and hem by
hand.
Thread the leather trim or satin ribbon through the eyelets and knot at the bottom.
Tips on Working with Fabrics
There are several important basic rules for cutting out and sewing fabrics. Here are a few tips
regarding our projects:
Cutting out
Selvedges
The approx. 1-cm (1/2“)-wide strips on both sides of the fabric are the selvedges. Because their texture is
generally different from that of the rest of the fabric, you must never include the selvedge in your
calculations. Nor is the selvedge suitable as a fabric seam allowance.
Fabric fold
The folded edge created when you lay both sides of the fabric together is the fabric fold. When cutting
out a pattern piece labelled with a fabric fold, lay it exactly on such a folded edge.
Fabric grain
The fabric grain is crucial for the correct drape of a garment. The grain marked on the pattern pieces
corresponds to the straight grain or warp of the fabric, and must run parallel to the selvedges.
With patterned fabrics, always pay attention to the direction of the grain and cut out fabrics in the same
direction.
Seam allowances
Cutting out seam allowances of equal width makes sewing easier later on. Use a measuring tape and
taylor’s chalk to draw the seam allowances onto the fabric all around the paper pattern pieces. As a rule,
you’ll need 4cm (1 1/2“) seam allowances for hems and 1.5cm (5/8“) on all other edges and seams.
(Where measurements differ, we’ve mentioned this in the instructions.)
Sewing
Sewing edges and seams
When sewing edges and seams, always place your fabric right sides together and sew together 1.5cm
(5/8“) in from the edge (same width as the seam allowance). The seam allowances are then pressed
apart, trimmed if necessary, and neatened with a zigzag stitch or an overlocker.
Sewing hems
When hemming, turn edges under twice from the right side to the wrong side of the fabric, iron along the
top edge, and sew. For a 4cm (1 1/2“) seam allowance the hem is first turned under 1cm (1/2“), then
again another 3cm (1 1/4“).
Machine stitch settings for straight stitch
Use the factory settings for sewing edges, seams and hems.
For topstitching, you can set stitch length to 3-3.5 mm.
Using interfacing
Use interfacing (or stabilizers) to reinforce fabric on facings, collars, etc. The best interfacing to use
depends on the fabric you’ve chosen. You’ll find commercially available interfacing in fabric stores. A
store assistant will be able to advise you as to which interfacing is suitable for your fabric, and on how to
iron it on.
B
C
Bustiergürtel /
Corset Belt
/
Ceinture de bust
ier
C
Vordere Mitte Stoffbruch / Centre front on fold/ Pli du milieu endroit
A
B
A
Bustiergürtel /
Corset Belt /
Ceinture de bustier
D
Bustiergürtel /
Corset Belt /
Ceinture de bustier
D
E
Bustiergürtel /
Corset Belt /
Ceinture de bustier
Rückwärtige Mitte / Centre back / Milieu envers
Bustiergürtel /
Corset Belt /
Ceinture de bustier
E
5 x 5 cm
25
30
35
Tasche / Bag / Sac
Taschenteil / Bag / Elément du sac
2x Oberstoff / Fabric / Tissu
2x Futterstoff / Lining / Doublure
1
10
11
12
13
14
15
40
1
=25cm
2
3
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
2
4
5
6
7
8
9
2
3
Tasche / Bag / Sac
Seitenteil / Side section / Elément
latéral
2x Oberstoff / Fabric / Tissu
2x Futterstoff / Lining / Doublure
cm
1
2
Inch
3
1
4
5
2
3
Legeplan zum Zusammenkleben der DIN A4-Seiten / Layout Plan for Gluing Together the DIN A4
Pages / Plan de disposition pour l'assemblage des pages DIN A4
Grösse/ Size/ Taille
Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine
Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille
Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche
Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/
Longueur taille devant
Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/
1
2
34
80
64
90
42
36
84
67
93
43
38
88
71
96
44
40
92
75
99
45
42
96
79
102
46
44
100
83
105
47
46
104
87
108
48
41
41
41
42
42
42
42
Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 66 Inch:
Grösse/ Size/ Taille
Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine
Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille
Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche
Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/
Longueur taille devant
Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/
cm
Inch
Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 168 cm:
Rückwärtige Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf/
Centre back on fold straight grain/
Droit fil milieu envers pli
Stoffbruch /
Fabric fold/ Pli
10 x 10 cm
34
31,5
25,2
35,4
16,5
36
33
26,4
36,6
17
38
34,6
28
37,8
17,3
40
36,2
29,5
39
17,7
42
37,8
31,1
40,2
18
44
39,4
32,7
41,3
18,5
46
40,9
34,3
42,5
18,9
16
16
16
16,5
16,5
16,5
16,5
1
3
4
2
7
8
9
4
Legende/Legend/ Légend
Grösse/
Size/
Taille
5
6
3
10
11
34
36
38
40
42
44
46
12
5
13
14
6
1
15
2
Rock / Skirt / Jupe
3
16
17
7
Rückenteil / Back / Dos
18
Rock / Skirt / Jupe
Rock / Skirt / Jupe
Seitlicher Saumbesatz / Side
hem facing / Garniture latérale
d‘ourlet
Besatz für rückwärtige
Schnürdekoration / Facing for
back lace embellishment/
Garniture
pour la décoration du dos
19
8
20
9
10
25
11
30
12
13
35
14
15
5
6
Stoffbruch /
Fabric fold/ Pli
Rock / Skirt / Jupe
Rock / Skirt / Jupe
Mittleres Vorderteil / Center
Front / Devant milieu
Rückwärtiger Saumbesatz /
Back hem facing / Garniture
d‘ourlet dos
Rock / Skirt / Jupe
Rock / Skirt / Jupe
4
Bund / Waistband / Ceinture
40
Stoffbruch / Fabric fold/ Pli
7
8
9
Rock / Skirt / Jupe
Untertritt / Underlap / Sous-patte
Einsatz hinten / Back insert dos
/ Garniture dos
Rückwärtige Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf / Centre back on fold straight grain / Droit fil milieu envers pli
Vordere Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf/ Centre front straight grain on fold/ Droit fil milieu endroit pli
Seitliches Vorderteil / Side Front
/ Devant latéral
Rock/Skirt/Jupe
Einsatz vorne /
Front inserts /
Garniture avant
10
11
12
Ausdrucken der Seiten:
Deaktivieren Sie die Funktion, dass die Seite automatisch an Blattgröße oder Druckbereich angepasst wird.
Es muss: „Seitenanpassung - Keine“ eingeschaltet sein. Nur so wird in Originalgrösse gedruckt, also 100%.
Zur Kontrolle des Ausdrucks das Kontroll-Viereck ausmessen
Printing out the pages:
Deactivate the function automatically adjusting the page to the paper size or printing area. ‘Page Adjustment
– None’ must be switched on. Only in this way will the pages print out in the original size, i.e. 100%.
To check the printout measure the test square.
Impression des pages
Désactiver la fonction pour que la page s'adapte automatiquement à la dimension de la feuille ou du secteur
d'impression. Activer "aucune" sur "adaptation de la page". Ce n'est qu'ainsi que la dimension originale
(100%) sera correctement imprimée.
Imprimer et vérifier l’envergure du carré.
1
10 x 10 cm
Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 168 cm:
Grösse/ Size/ Taille
Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine
Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille
Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche
Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/
Longueur taille devant
Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/
34
80
64
90
42
36
84
67
93
43
38
88
71
96
44
40
92
75
99
45
42
96
79
102
46
44
100
83
105
47
46
104
87
108
48
41
41
41
42
42
42
42
Für Körpergrösse/ for heigth/ pour la taille 66 Inch:
Grösse/ Size/ Taille
Oberweite/ Bust/Poitrine
Taillenweite/ Waist/ Taille
Hüftweite/ Hip/ Hanche
Vord. Taillengl./ Front waist length/
Longueur taille devant
Rückw. Taillenlg./ Back waist lenth/
34
31,5
25,2
35,4
16,5
36
33
26,4
36,6
17
38
34,6
28
37,8
17,3
40
36,2
29,5
39
17,7
42
37,8
31,1
40,2
18
44
39,4
32,7
41,3
18,5
46
40,9
34,3
42,5
18,9
16
16
16
16,5
16,5
16,5
16,5
Legende/Legend/ Légend
Grösse/
Size/
Taille
34
36
38
40
42
44
46
1
Rock
Besa
deko
lace
pour
2
Stoffbruch /
Fabric fold/ Pli
cm
Inch
1
2
1
3
4
2
5
6
7
3
8
9
4
10
11
12
5
13
14
6
15
2
Rock / Skirt / Jup
16
17
7
18
19
Rückenteil / Back /
3
Rückwärtige Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf/
Centre back on fold straight grain/
Droit fil milieu envers pli
l / Back / Dos
3
kirt / Jupe
4
Rock / Skirt / Jupe
Seitlicher Saumbesatz / Side
hem facing / Garniture latérale
d‘ourlet
Rock / Skirt / Jupe
Besatz für rückwärtige Schnürdekoration / Facing for back
lace embellishment/ Garniture
pour la décoration du dos
4
19
5
8
20
9
10
25
11
12
30
13
35
14
15
40
5
6
Rock / Skirt / Jupe
Bund / Waistband / Ceinture
6
7
Rock / Skirt / Jupe
Centre front straight grain on fold/ Droit fil milieu endroit pli
Mittleres Vorderteil / Center
Front / Devant milieu
7
8
Rock / Skirt / Ju
Rückwärtiger Sau
Back hem facing
d‘ourlet dos
Rock / Skirt / Jupe
Seitliches Vorderteil / Side Front
/ Devant latéral
8
9
Stoffbruch /
Fabric fold/ Pli
Stoffbruch / Fabric fold/ Pli
Skirt / Jupe
tiger Saumbesatz /
m facing / Garniture
dos
Rückwärtige Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf / Centre
9
Vordere Mitte Stoffbruch Fadenlauf/ Centr
10
10
11
Rock/Skirt/Jupe
Einsatz vorne /
Front inserts /
Garniture avant
11
Untertritt / Underlap / Sous-patte
Einsatz hinten / Back insert dos
/ Garniture dos
e
12
/ Centre back on fold straight grain / Droit fil milieu envers pli
Rock / Skirt / Jupe
12