Poudre Canyon - Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition

Transcription

Poudre Canyon
ROUTE CLIMBING GUIDE
By Craig Luebben, Cameron Cross,
& Bennett Scott
FIRST EDITION : WINTER 2010
Laramie, WY
WYOMING
COLORADO
HWY 287
I-25
N
Red Feather Lakes
CO 14
POUDRE CANYON
Mulberry Ave.
Fort Collins
34
34
Loveland
Estes Park
HWY 287
Longmont
36
119
Boulder
I-25
36
Denver
I-70
= AREA COVERED IN THIS GUIDE
2
POUDRE CANYON ROUTES
CO 14
!
G
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!W
Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity
that may result in serious injury or death.
Read this before you use this guide.
The authors and publisher cannot verify
the accuracy of information presented
in this guide including, but not limited to
approach or descent routes, problem/route
descriptions and/or ratings, maps, directions,
access information, property boundaries, or
management regulations.
This guide is a compilation of information
from a variety of sources. Although we
painstakingly research the information we
provide, it is impossible for us to give first
hand knowledge of all the routes presented.
In addition, translating route descriptions can
be difficult, so errors will occur. Always use
your best judgment, and back off if a route
seems overly dangerous.
Regardless of the rating, a climbing mishap
can result in injury or death. We assume no
responsibility for the safety of those who use
this guidebook. If you are not an experienced
and proficient climber seek instruction before
climbing.
Do not attempt climbing without proper
equipment and training. In addition, this
guide should not be used as an instructional
manual. Information presented in this
guide is based on opinions and should not
be relied on for personal safety. The author
and publisher assume no responsibility in
the event of injury or death. Do not use this
guidebook if you are unwilling to assume
total responsibility for your safety.
THE AUTHORS AND PUBLISHER MAKE NO
WARRANTY, WHETHER EXPRESSED OR
IMPLIED, THAT THE INFORMATION PRESENTED
HEREIN IS ACCURATE. FURTHERMORE, THERE
ARE NO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY
OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE.
THE USER ASSUMES ALL RISK ASSOCIATED
WITH THE USE OF THIS GUIDE.
COPYRIGHT NOTICE
“Poudre Canyon Route Climbing Guide” by Cameron Cross and Bennett Scott is published by the NCCC
(Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition) and Copyrighted © 2010 by Cameron Cross and Bennett Scott.
All rights reserved.
No part of this book may be reproduced in any form by any electronic or mechanical means (including
photocopying, recording, or information storage and retrieval) without permission in writing from the
authors or the NCCC, except for reading and browsing those portions made available via the World
Wide Web. No part of this book, in any physical or electronic medium, may be distributed or repurposed
without permission in writing from the authors or the NCCC.
Photos © Cameron Cross 2010, unless otherwise noted.
For more information email: nococlimbers@gmail.com
COVER PHOTO: Craig Luebben dancing up another climb at Greyrock © 2010 Craig Luebben Collection
w w w. N O C OCLIMBING.org
3
C ha
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420 BOULDERS
ake
CO 14
You’re Almost There!
CR 69
CO 14
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CO 14
Ted
Pla s
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to
Laramie
HWY 287
to
Fort Collins
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Red Feather Lakes
t Road
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Boy Sco
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Ele
OVERVIEW
Ted’s Place: 0.0
Picnic Rock: 2.6
Gateway Mtn Park: 5.0
Poudre Practice Rock: 6.7
Greyrock: 8.4
Mishawaka: 13.8
Triple Tier Parking: 14.7
Tunnel: 14.8
Palace/Crystal Wall: 15.0
Stove Prairie Road: 16.3
Upper Narrows/Eden: 19.3
Pingree Park Rd: 26.7
Red Feather Rd: 31.4
Archers Store: 33.0
Profile Rock: 34.2
Hatchery Boulder: 38.3
420 Boulders: 41.5
Gandalf Boulders: 46.1
CO 14
Zero your tachometer as soon as you turn
onto CO 14 from HWY 287 and these mileage
readings will get you to the crags.
Poudre Canyon Routes Guide SELECT
Table of Contents
7
10
12
15
20
23
28
33
37
38
40
42
43
44
46
49
58
62
64
66
68
70
72
74
76
78
80
82
83
84
87
88
96
98
101
102
105
107
OVERVIEW
CLIMBING HISTORY
ICON DESCRIPTIONS
GREYROCK
South Slabs
Northwest Slabs
Southeast Face
Breakers / Granite Sea
The Crest
TRIPLE TIER AREA
The Sail
Laughing Man / Undertall Wall
The Fist
Chimney Sweep Wall
Middle Class Wall
Upper Echelon
CRYSTAL WALL
PALACE
Poudre Face
Lion’s Den
Mineshaft Wall
Lower Chamber
Upper Chamber
Red Wall
The Scepter
Palace Pages
The Citadel
Wall with a View
Cirque Du Poudre
Vatoville
STOVE PRAIRIE ROAD AREAS
THE NARROWS
Electric ocean
The Trough
Eden Area
Eve’s Cave
Snake Eye’s Wall
Last Turn Crag
ROUTE INDEX
5
This guidebook is dedicated to
Craig Luebben, who, in his customary
generosity, wanted to provide this
information as a free resource to the
climbing community. Thank you for
everything. You are sorely missed.
Acknowledgements
OVERVIEW
We would like to thank all the people
who have helped make this project
possible. Beyond spending countless
hours exploring, cleaning, and
developing routes, many people have
been instrumental in helping us record
the rich and diverse history of climbing
in the Poudre Canyon.
BS on the incredible O.D.K. (12b), Upper Echelon
6
In particular, Craig Luebben for his
tireless development of routes and
for providing a wealth of knowledge
and help with the guide. In addition,
we would like to thank Jeff Bassett,
Derek Peavey, Sam Shannon, Rodney
Ley, Steve Allen, Bryan Beavers, Paul
Heyliger, Tim Wilhelmi, Steve McCorkel,
Matt Samet, Greg Martin, Brian Espe,
Mitch Musci, Reed Woodford, Rob
Poutre, Mike Caputo, Vance White and
all the other people who have provided
valuable contributions to the canyon
and assistance throughout the editing
process.
Poudre Canyon Routes Guide
Overview
Climbing History
Rumbling through downtown Fort Collins
lies the mighty Cache La Poudre River. A
crowning jewel to this northern Colorado
town, it flows east from the Rocky Mountains
providing drinking and irrigation water for
much of Northern Colorado. The river has
also carved out the Poudre Canyon which
now provides climbers with a wealth of cliff
faces and crags.
Far from the hustle and bustle of other Front
Range destinations, Hwy 14 meanders from
Fort Collins toward Walden and Steamboat
Springs, offering a beautifully scenic and
inspiring drive. Beyond the wealth of
climbing and scenic vistas, the Poudre
Canyon also has excellent whitewater rafting
and kayaking, fishing, hiking, and skiing.
In an attempt to preserve as much history
as possible alternate names are listed where
applicable, with the most common name
listed first and alternate names following.
In regard to first ascents, we have listed
the first known ascent, and it is indubitable
that many of the lines were done prior to
their first recorded ascent. While we have
made every effort to provide accurate and
well-researched information in this guide,
we will inherently make mistakes given the
scope of the project and historical context of
the canyon. We strongly encourage anyone
with additional information to contact us at
nococlimbers@gmail.com.
The next wave of development stretched
from the early ‘80’s to mid ‘90’s and was
focused on Greyrock and the Narrows areas.
At Greyrock in the early ‘80’s, developers
such as Jeff Bassett, Don Braddy, Pat
McGrane, Jim Brink and others began to
establish bold, ground-up “Bachar” style
face routes where groundfall potential was
nearly always a concern and climbers were
forced to be competent mentally, physically
and technically. By the mid ‘80’s Greyrock
attracted locals including Craig Luebben,
Ken Gibson, Sari Schmetterer, Steve Drake
and others who began to develop more
difficult, but generally better protected
About this Guide
7
OVERVIEW
This guidebook is a compilation of written
resources as well as information gathered
through interviews with local climbers and
developers. One of the greatest challenges in
documenting climbing in the Poudre Canyon
is that there have been a large number of
people involved in the development of areas
and routes, yet little information has been
formally recorded. As a result, many of the
crags and lines are known by multiple names
or have fallen into obscurity.
The first definitive period of formal climbing
development began in the late ‘60’s and
early ‘70’s. By most accounts, ROTC Rock
(now known as Picnic Rock) and Greyrock
were the first areas to see climbing activity.
The routes developed during this time period
(primarily by Steve Allen & Rodney Ley)
were done in ground-up style, and often
focused on ascending interesting formations
and features. Given that active protection
(camming devices) hadn’t been invented yet,
pitons were a common form of protection
and can still be found at various crags in
the canyon as a reminder of these historic
ascents.
OVERVIEW
Rob Candelaria climbing Someday Never Comes (12b) in the Middle Narrows. © Craig Luebben Collection
8
lines. In addition, the first bolted lines in the
Psilocybin Canyon (Palace), Crystal Wall, and
the Narrows began to appear in the early
‘90’s, with Craig Luebben, Lizz Grenard, Rob
Poutre, Ron Ambrose, Steve McCorkel, Vance
White, Casey Rosenbach and others doing
the majority of the development.
Camping & Other
Logistics
Pay camping (first come, first serve for about
$6-12/night) is available at a variety of posted
sites along the Poudre River. Free camping
is scarce, but can be found along the Pingree
Park Road or at nearby Red Feather Lakes.
Car camping along the road is prohibited.
Be sure to follow posted regulations. There
is no cell service in the canyon. In case of
emergency, dial 911 from Mishawaka or
Archers.
River crossings:
Many of the crags in the Poudre Canyon
require river crossings. However, in contrast
Spring runoff, which usually begins in late
April and extends through July, makes
river crossings impassible unless you
own a kayak or other form of floating
transportation. Although each crossing is
unique, a general rule is that all wading ends
when the river reaches 2.0 feet on the rock
gauge. Regardless of the level, crossing the
Poudre can be adventurous, dangerous, and
should be done with utmost care. Drowning,
foot entrapment, and hypothermia are only a
few things on a long list of potential hazards.
Proper footwear, trekking poles, and a warm
change of clothes are highly recommended.
Whenever possible we have included
additional info about crossings, but be sure
to use your best judgment. Always assess
each crossing thoroughly, and if a crossing
looks questionable find somewhere else to
climb. For information regarding current
water levels, visit:
www.poudrerockreport.com or
www.waterdata.usgs.gov/nwis/rt and search
for station # 06752260.
Ratings
By local convention, an R rating means
serious injury may occur if you fall while
leading certain sections of a climb; an X rating
means you might die. An (11b/ 7X) rating
means the 5.11b crux is protectable, but a
serious fall is possible on 5.7 terrain. The
asterisks (*) are used to indicate the quality
of a route (as judged by the authors), with
**** denoting the finest routes, and no stars
marking a route you should wholeheartedly
avoid unless you have climbed everything
else in the canyon.
9
OVERVIEW
From the mid ‘90’s to the present, a third
wave of development has defined the
canyon. Shifting from the bold, ground-up
style of the ‘80’s to a focus on establishing
physically demanding but safely bolted
routes, developers such as Derek Peavey,
Tim Wilhelmi, Steve McCorkel, Judson Doyle,
Ken Gibson, Sam Shannon, Bryan Beavers,
Greg Martin, Paul Heyliger, Greg Hand, and
others have established the majority of
popular sport climbing crags, including the
Palace, Crystal Wall, Triple Tier Area, Electric
Ocean and a variety of crags in the Narrows.
Today, the Poudre Canyon offers hundreds
of routes of all styles, from excellent crack
routes and technical face climbs at Greyrock
to powerful overhanging sport lines in the
Palace area, that are sure to challenge and
reward climbers of all abilities.
to other popular areas along the Front Range,
there are rarely tyrolean traverses set up
due to the wide nature of the river and lack
of suitable locations. As a result, wading
is required to reach a fair number of the
popular crags.
Icons
A number of icons appear throughout this
guide, providing quick and useful information
about a variety of information including
suggested protection, descent routes, and
more. Please see the list below for definitions
of all the icons we use.
rack as defined in our guide may not provide
sufficient protection for all climbs, so be sure
to assess all routes prior to climbing and
adjust accordingly.
TRAD+ - Unusual Protection
Bolts / Fixed Protection Only
Used only for routes that are bolted and do
not require additional protection (or none is
available). The number of bolts on any pitch
(not including the anchors) is reflected after
the bolt icon. Please note that there may be
discrepancies in bolt counts and you should
always carry an extra draw or two just in
case.
OVERVIEW
MIXED PROTECTION:
Bolts and Standard Rack of Protection
Routes that have mixed protection, requiring
traditional protection in addition to 1 or more
bolts. Additional information about the bolt
count as well as suggested protection will be
found in the individual route descriptions.
TRAD - Standard Rack of Protection
Routes requiring a standard rack of traditional
protection such as camming devices,
stoppers, etc. In this case, a standard rack is
defined as a double set of cams from finger
to hand size as well as a set of stoppers,
including RPs or other micro nuts. All sizes
of camming gear will be given in reference
to Black Diamond Camalots. A standard
10
Traditional routes that require gear beyond
a standard rack will be given this icon. In
general, info on extra gear will be given in the
route description.
70
METER
ROPE70
Today, a 60-meter rope is the standard
length. We assume that everyone using this
guide will be using a standard rope or longer.
If a pitch requires a full 60 meters or more
(including sport routes that require a longer
rope for safe lowering), icons designating
required rope length will be displayed.
CHOSS / POSSIBLE DOOM
Bad rock is inevitable. However, we have
a special designation for routes that are
exceptionally loose, flaky, licheny, bushy,
and otherwise of poor quality. Routes with
this designation should probably be avoided
unless you are looking for sketchy adventures.
These routes often offer poor protection and
should be approached carefully and with a
helmet for you and your belayer.
OVERVIEW
Mark Wilford making an early ascent of the Odyssey. This route is now closed to climbing. © Craig Luebben Collection
w w w. N O C O CLIMBING.org
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H
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GREYROCK
MEADOWS
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GREYROCK OVERVIEW
A - South Slabs
B - Northwest Slabs
C - Southeast Face
D - Breakers
E - Granite Sea
F - The Ripple
G - The Crest
H - The Sentinel
I - Rasta Rock
MIT
DOW
SUM
MEA
TO FORT COLLINS
IL 9
TRA
947
46
AIL
S TR
TO TRIPLE TIER, PALACE
CRYSTAL WALL, NARROWS, E.T.C.
12
CO 14
CO 14
Greyrock
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SUMMIT
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TRAIL 9
Climbing Overview
Type(s): Trad, Sport, Bouldering
Difficulty Range: 5.4-5.12, V0-V10
Approach Time: 1 - 1.5 hours
Season: Mar-June; Aug-Nov
The summit of Greyrock reaches an elevation
of 7613 feet (2320 m). Capped by an intrusive dome of high quality granite, Greyrock’s
upper flanks present a variety of enjoyable
face lines. The exquisite slabs are speckled randomly with edges, and pierced by
incipient cracks. Dozens of easy to moderate crack lines split the slabs. A few slabs
rear up to offer steep face climbs and short,
overhanging cracks. While many good single
pitch climbs exist, Greyrock’s Southeast Face
routes ascend up to 500 feet.
Greyrock’s extensive massif includes several rock groups. The largest is Greyrock
itself, which is divided into three areas: the
Summit Trail 946
Climber Access Trail
South Slabs, with the highest concentration
of quality routes combined with the easiest
access; the remote Northwest Slabs, which
offer exciting face climbs; and the adventurous Southeast Face, featuring routes up
to five pitches long. Immediately below and
southeast of Greyrock lies The Breakers/
Granite Sea area, containing many of Greyrock’s hardest and steepest face routes. Directly above on the ridge top lies the Crest,
and further northeast are the seldom-visited
Rasta Rock and The Sentinel. Some excellent bouldering may be found in the Greyrock
meadow as well as scattered in the aspen
stand to the northeast.
Much of Greyrock’s climbing history is
unrecorded. Climbers were likley active by
the 1950s, and probably much earlier. Steve
Allen began exploring Greyrock in 1969, and
estimates that most of the moderate cracks
were climbed by the mid-70s. Many early
routes are not listed here, and some of the
route names were created by subsequent
13
Mitch Musci Photo
ascent parties. Pat McGrane recorded
several routes in topo format in his 1985
Greyrock Guidebook. The majority of routes
listed in this guide were established in the
1980s. The most active first ascentionists
during this period were Pat McGrane, Jeff
Bassett, Don Braddy, Ken Gibson, Kent
Wheeler, Chuck Grossman, Sari Schmetterer
and Craig Luebben.
GREYROCK
In addition to a plethora of cracks, Greyrock
hosts many bolted and mixed protection
lines. Many routes require traditional
protection to supplement runouts between
bolts. Stoppers, small cams such as TCUs
or C3s, Tricams, and Loweballs are the most
useful; the standard rack also includes brass
nuts and Friends or Camalots to three inches.
Occasionally larger Friends or Bigbros are
helpful.
Fall and spring are the best seasons to
climb at Greyrock, although it’s possible
to climb year around. The Southeast face
is an excellent winter climbing area, as
it is highly sheltered from the prevailing
northwesterly winds. Superb camping exists
in the surrounding forests and meadows,
particularly at the base of the South slabs.
Bring water because there is no reliable
source, and please don’t litter!
Ethics regarding route development have
14
varied significantly throughout the
years, from hand drilling groundup style to rap bolting with power
drills. Unfortunately in recent years,
retrobolting of several classic routes
(without the permission of the first
ascentionist) has also occurred.
Greyrock has a long history of
proud lines and adding bolts to
existing routes without the consent
of the first ascentionist is not an
accepted ethic. The NC3, working
in conjunction with the American
Safe Climbing Association (ASCA),
has undertaken the replacement of
unsafe hardware in an effort to reduce the
objective risk of climbing in the area.
If you find any existing hardware in need of
replacement, please contact us at:
nococlimbers@gmail.com.
Directions
From Ted’s place, take highway 14 west
8.55 miles to a well-marked parking area.
In addition to the parking lot on the south
side of the road, there is overflow parking
on both sides of the highway. Follow a
well-established trail for half a mile to a
junction between the Summit trail and the
Meadows trail. The Summit trail provides
quicker access to almost all of the climbing
at Greyrock and will be the trail used to
describe all of the approaches in this guide.
While steeper and about a mile longer, the
Meadows trail does yield a fantastic view
of both sides of Greyrock, and provides
access to the lower meadow where
excellent camping awaits. After two miles
the Summit trail enters the upper meadow
where a dramatic view of the South slabs
and the Southeast face appears. There is
a wooden bench where the Summit and
Meadows trails reconnect. Directions to
all of the climbing areas will start from this
intersection.
13 14
LOWER TIER
12
MIDDLE TIER
1516
17
30
18
15
UPPER TIER
A - South Slabs
19
1
20
XX
31
32
GREYROCK
15
21
XX
2
3 4 5
27
27
25 26
22 23 24
22
28
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6 7
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10
89
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11
A - The South Slabs
Greyrock’s South Slabs offer the easiest access and highest concentration of climbs.
It is possible to complete three pitches by
linking routes on the lower, main and upper
tiers. From the intersection of the Summit
and Meadow trails, reach the South Slabs by
leaving the main trail heading north between
two rock outcroppings. Cross through primitive campsites and head slightly right until
the Lower Tier comes into view.
Go Spuds Go*** (12a)
This lone route sits by itself on the lowest
point of rock between the South Slabs and
the Southeast Face presenting an ominous
15 foot, 5 to 8 inch roof/crack. Handstacks,
kneelocks and chicken wings may get one
to the top.
- C Luebben ‘88
GREYROCK
Lower Tier of South Slabs
1. Fun Flake** (6)
An excellent and popular beginner’s climb.
Follow thin flakes on the left edge of the
lower tier. Two .75 Camalots are useful for
the anchor.
- FA Unknown
2. Good Girls Don’t (7 R)
Straight up the slab from the lowest point of
the lower tier.
- FA Unknown
3. Two Minds Meet** (7)
Nice crack and face climb left of Aunt Edna’s.
- Unknown
16
4. Aunt Edna’s Costume Jewelry**
(7)
Once rated 5.7X, this route has been retro
bolted with 14 bolts. Follow large crystals
up a shallow groove. The chain anchors can
also be used as an anchor for the routes to
the right of this one.
14 - Steve Allen & partner ‘70’s
5. Between Nothingness
and Eternity*** (12a)
This was one of the first sport climbs at Greyrock. Devious edging and friction. The holds
get thinner and the bolts further apart as the
angle kicks back.
- C Luebben, Malcolm Daly ‘89
6. Bad Boys Bolt** (11b/c)
This route will keep your attention with its
thin moves and exciting runouts. The first
bolt is 15 feet off the deck.
? - C Luebben, Jim Brink ‘86
7. Black Market* (11b / 7 X)
Steep face climbing on small edges. Great
moves, but beware of the groundfall potential before the second and third bolts. These
3 old bolts are in need of replacement.
3 - FA Jeff Bassett, Don Braddy ‘82; FFA
Jim Hall ‘84
8. Birdland*** (9)
Step up and traverse left into the groove. Stair
step the crystals until the groove ends, then
head left and up for the crack. This route has
been retro bolted, with the first bolt poorly
placed and not necessary. There are chains
at the top of this pitch that can be used for
many of the routes close to it.
11 - J Bassett, D Braddy ‘82
GREYROCK
Between Nothingness and Eternity (12a) © Craig Luebben Collection
17
9. Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland)** (10a)
After the sixth bolt on Birdland continue
straight up on nice face climbing. Bring small
friends and stoppers.
6 - C Luebben, Bob Gobell,
Gerry Huitt, Robyn Bunch ‘89
10. Beer for Breakfast* (9)
Follow the right‑facing corner immediately
right of the bolted routes on the lower tier.
The next two pitches continue up the center
of the main tier to easy ground.
- D Braddy, J Bassett ‘82
12. The Blob* (10c R/X)
About 200 yards left of Trojan Romance lies
a large blobby boulder. This route is best approached by hiking northwest around the
main tier. Climb the thin dish passing two
bolts and funky gear in a horizontal crack.
The bolts are old and in need of replacement.
2 - J Brink, Pat McGrane ‘88
GREYROCK
Main Tier of South Slabs
13. Trojan Romance*** (11c)
Three engaging and varied cruxes. Lieback
the left‑leaning crack left of Dirty Love.
Mount the overhanging wide crack (stay
right), finger traverse a horizontal crack just
above the roof, and tiptoe up the squeaky
thin face. There are at least 2 new bolts on
the face.
2 - C Luebben, Gary Sapp ‘89
14. Dirty Love* (10d)
Undercling right past a pin (which can be
backed up with a small TCU) and follow the
chimney/corner to the top using a variety of
techniques.
- J Bassett, D Braddy ‘82
18
15. Testicle Traverse** (11a or 9)
Climb Flirty Dove for 20 feet, then hand traverse left across the “testicle”. Climb above
the bolt (11a) or move right and up (9). The
bolt is newer.
1 - C Luebben, Sari Schmetterer,
Mike Abbott ‘88
16. Flirty Dove*** (9)
Complex, exciting and varied. Climb straight
up to the right edge of the Dirty Love roof,
then up and right to a bolt. Traverse further
right and follow discontinuous cracks. Traverse left when the pro disappears. Bring a
1/2 inch cam or nut. The bolt should be replaced.
1 - C Luebben, Steve Drake ‘86
17. Seam As It Ever Was Variation*
(10a R)
Climb Flirty Dove and follow the scary seam
at the top.
6 - Unknown
18. Roofus Dickus* (11c)
5.8 climbing up the corner leads to a difficult
finger crack through a roof, followed by discontinuous cracks on the face above.
- C Luebben, C Grossman ‘86
19. Cornercopia* (7)
Some interesting moves up the obvious corner.
- Unknown
20. Slab Happy*** (7)
Exceptionally fun and continuous at its grade.
Mix of gear and 5 bolts. There are rappel
chains at the top of this pitch.
1 - C Luebben, S Schmetterer ‘88
19. S.P.N.* (9 R)
Start on Slip and follow discontinuous cracks
to the headwall. Finish with exciting moves
up the right‑leaning crack.
- Ken Gibson, D Braddy ‘88
26. ELP* (8)
Follow the fun face left of Grey Rat Rocksicle,
over the small roof (11 with no hands). This
route has been retro bolted.
3 - Unknown
21. Slip (6 X)
Climb the right‑angling ramp to the Wildstreak rappel anchors.
- Unknown
27. Grey Rat Rocksicle** (8 R)
Claw your way to the flared crack, 20 feet
up, with more thrills moving up and right between discontinuous cracks and corners. It
is possible to clip the first two bolts on Shadow Dance to reduce the lower run out.
2 - Unknown
22. Climb On My Face*** (10a)
Boulder to the first bolt 20 feet off of the deck
and follow the enjoyable slab to the rightleaning finger crack in the headwall. The
chained bolts 70 feet up allow convenient
top‑roping of the lower slab. The best climbing lies above the chained bolts.
3? - C Luebben, S Schmetterer ‘88
24. Blackstreak** (11d R)
Stay in the black streak and ponder the incredibly thin moves. Good top rope problem.
? - Kent Weeler ‘87
25. Wildstreak* (10d R / 6 X)
Climb to the single bolt right of Blackstreak,
then run it out to the rappel anchors. The
bolt is 20 feet off of the deck and should be
replaced.
1 - C Luebben, J Brink ‘86
29. Sugar Mountain* (5 R)
A sweet climb. Ascend the obvious weakness
right of Shadow Dance.
- Unknown
Upper Tier of South Slabs
To return from the upper tier to the main tier:
(1) Rappel from the top of Cornercopia, or
(2) Follow a gulley southwest. Before the gulley’s bottom, traverse a short slab southward
between boulders and follow ledges to the
base of the main tier.
30. Fatman In the Bathtub* (11c)
Fatman begins in the cave formed below the
large boulders on the upper tier. A horizontal
squeeze chimney with hand jams leads out
the 15 foot roof an overhanging hand and
off‑width crack. Armadillo-like body armor is
recommended, along with friends to #4.
- C Luebben, K Wheeler ‘86
19
GREYROCK
23. Wigs on Fire** (10a)
Keep your head cool as thin edging and
friction leads to easier run out climbing. Although this route now has four bolts, it still
contains some run outs. Be wary of the deck
potential at the second bolt. It is possible to
veer right to the dihedral above ELP to find
gear and easier climbing.
4 - Unknown
28. Shadow Dance* (7)
Climb straight up the shallow corner/seam,
past a thin flake. Follow your shadow up past
8 or 9 closely placed new bolts. There are
chains at the top of this climb.
9 - Unknown
31. Jammin’ With Bob** (11c)
In the split of the large boulder. Similar to Supremacy Crack, with a harder start and easier finish. Make a long reach to finger jams,
then smoke up the overhanging hand crack.
- C Luebben ‘88
32. Brown Pellets and Yellow Goo*
(8)
Above the split boulder is a dog‑leg crack.
The climb is better than it looks, but beware
its namesake!
- Steve Gorham, S Schmetterer ‘88
33. Mr. Moonpie** (10)
At the top of the gulley just north of Jammin’
with Bob lies this crack on a north‑facing
wall. The crack wraps in from the right, turns
straight up through the roof and finally thins
out. Bring RPs to #4 friends.
- Unknown
B - Northwest Slabs
The Northwest Slabs offer adventurous
climbing and solitude. To reach the Northwest
Slabs, walk northward around the western
flank of Greyrock. Cross the ridge and head
northeast to the obvious slabs. There is a
rock cairn at a pass in the ridge which marks
a good spot to drop onto the Northwest slabs.
Descend all routes from Cow Words to Sky
Crack by rappelling from a tree on Cowpie
Ledge.
34. Flabby Little Girly Man* (11a R)
Clip two bolts and follow the poorly protected
but easier face above.
2 - D Braddy, Don Wood ‘89
GREYROCK
35. Turbo Pup** (10b / 8 R)
Howling face climbing leads past two bolts to
an easier runout slab.
2 - D Braddy, D Wood ‘89
36. Squid Skid** (9)
Climb to the ledge at the base of Yellow Dihedral and up the face left of the arête for a
total of three pitches.
- D Braddy, K Gibson ‘89
37. Yellow Dihedral** (9)
Ascends the obvious dihedral at the left edge
of Cowpie Ledge. Reminiscent of a Lumpy
Ridge dihedral.
- Unknown
20
36
34 35
37 38
36
36
GREYROCK
21
37
39
39
38
40 41
40
41
42
B - Northwest Slabs
38. Cow Words* (9 or 10b / 7 R)
Delicate moves up a slab gain the first bolt.
Go right (9) or straight up (10) to the next bolt
and run it out to the ledge.
2 - Tom Moderson, C Luebben ‘89
39. Ribeye Flake* (8 / 6 R)
Ascend a medium rare right‑facing corner
(6) to belay at the juniper bush. Traverse
left around the precariously perched Ribeye
Flake. Cruise past three bolts and run it out
to Cow Pie Ledge. Well done.
3 - T Moderson, C Luebben ‘89
GREYROCK
40. Cows Are People Too** (9 R)
Follow an easy thin crack to the Ribeye Flake
belay. Climb a low angled seam and follow
the black streak, then move right to another
seam. Cruise the roof (#4 Camalot or #1 Bigbro) to the exciting exit moves.
- C Luebben, Sarah Spalding, Ralph
Walter, S Schmetterer ‘89
41. Doctor Cow*** (10c or 11c)
Thought provoking but safe and fun. Follow
fifteen bolts up the 180 foot slab. Go right
at the top to keep the route 10c; the direct
finish will milk you at 11c. Put long slings on
the first bolts to reduce rope drag, and bring
a 60 meter rope, or finish with a short pitch.
15 - Unknown
42. Cows In Space*** (10b / 8R)
A face and seam classic, recently retrobolted
with twice the bolts. Begin atop a large flake
and step over the small overhang. Clip the
first 2 bolts for Doctor Cow to where the slab
steepens. Pass 4 more bolts to a horizontal
crack where you can place pro. Follow the
seam that leads to higher cracks.
6 - C Luebben, Skip Harper ‘89
43. Sky Crack*** (7)
One of the nicest 5.7 crack lines at Greyrock.
Climb the right‑leaning, right‑facing corner
to the small overhang and savor the classic
finger and hand crack above
- Unknown
44. Paint It Sad * (8 / 6 R)
Gloom up the ever steepening slab past a
small tree. Horizontal cracks and a lone bolt
give protection.
1 - Unknown
22
46
47 48 49
54
50 51
52
53
53 56
56
54 55
57 58
GREYROCK
23
57 58
60 61
65
59 60
69
62 64
65 66 67
61 63
68
67
C - Southeast Face
69
70 71
70 71
72
72
73
C - Southeast Face
The Southeast Face provides the longest
routes on Greyrock ‑ up to five pitches in
length. Usually the angle eases as you get
higher. Many cracks not listed are 5.5 to
5.8. From the Meadow intersection, follow
the summit trail northeast toward Greyrock.
Shortly after passing the first “Summit Trail
946” wooden post, you will find a cairn. Veer
left here, following a faint climbers trail toward the wall and beginning of Southeast
Face routes. The triple crack system of the
“Chipmunk Routes” is the best landmark to
get oriented.
50. Pretty Face** (8)
A cute route with fun face climbing and a
reasonable overhang.
- J Brink
46. Toolin’ Woody (10a)*
A real hands-on climb. The first buttress left
of the Woody Tool contains this 90 foot thin
crack/face route.
- Unknown
52. Unknown (?)
3 old bolts, the last of which is above a roof.
3 - Unknown
GREYROCK
47. The Woody Tool (a.k.a Mr. Seam)*
(10a)
Just left of Prints of Darkness lies an obvious left‑leaning seam. Climb this intimidating feature and pass a small roof. Watch out
for slivers.
- Unknown
48. Prints of Darkness** (8 R)
A small overhang leads to two bolts and the
prominent black streak. Protect left and follow good holds up the streak. The bolts are
old and in need of replacement. Standard
rack including a .3 Camalot.
2 - J Bassett
49. Wanderlust* (8)
Ascends the face with horizontal cracks right
of Prints of Darkness.
- Unknown
24
51. Just Another Pretty Face (11b R)
Pretty treacherous ‑ make thin face moves
above the lone bolt to a manky RP placement. Move carefully above (some 9 or 10)
‑ beware of the potential for plastic surgery
if the RP pulls!
1 - J Brink, P McGrane
53. Alvin* (6)
This climb starts on the left‑most of the
Triple Cracks. Scamper up the wide crack to
a ledge and belay. Follow Theodore to top.
Bring a couple of wide pieces.
- Unknown
54. Theodore** (6)
The middle of the three hand cracks. 1. Nice
hand jamming to the ledge. Belay at tree,
almost a full 200 feet. 2. Move left around
a giant roof and follow a left facing corner
system to a face section and belay in a gully
at the top of the roof. 3. Move rightward up
a corner and traverse left, then straight up
a finger crack. Traverse right again and finally head up in a crack/groove and belay in
a funky dish. 4. Go to the top. Many variations exist.
- Unknown
GREYROCK
Leslie Barber on The Greatest Route at Greyrock (8) © Craig Luebben Collection
25
55. Simon** (8+)
The right-most of the Triple Cracks is the
most challenging. 1. Good hand jams lead
up the slightly awkward first pitch. Follow
a grassy (but pleasant) crack. 2. Move over
easier ground and pass the large overhang
on its right edge via hand and fist jams (beware of rope jams), or take the lightning bolt
finger crack to the roof and traverse right
(recommended). Continue along Theodore
from pitch 3 to the top.
- Unknown
56. Dog Face* (10a R)
For homely climbers. Immediately left of Mr.
Gone lies an exciting face with two bolts.
2 - J Brink, P McGrane ‘88
GREYROCK
57. Mr. Gone*** (10a R)
Clip three bolts en route to the classic finger crack, being careful of the runout to the
third bolt. Pitch two goes up and right with
slim protection to the Prow. Climb the center
of this steep feature past a bolt, move right
and follow easier cracks, or finish straight
up above the bolt (10a R). The bolt may be
missing, but many variations exist to the
right or left of the prow.
3 - J Bassett, D Braddy ‘82
58. Jetstream Deluxe** (9)
Just right of Mr. Gone lies a crack in a shallow
corner. There is a tree in the crack. Fire up
the easy crack which gets thinner and more
flared, make an awkward step left and face
climb to a nice finger crack and belay ledge.
Follow this and other discontinuous cracks
up and rightward to the top of Greyrock.
- Unknown
26
59. The Greatest Route
at Greyrock *** (8)
(a.k.a. The Pin Route)
This is, without a doubt, Greyrock’s best 5.8
climb. Start 80 feet to the right of Jetstream
Deluxe in a very short left facing dihedral
with a capped roof at 15 feet. P1. Climb the
short corner and step right to avoid the roof,
or lieback an exciting crack to the right of the
corner. Veer back left and meander up incipient cracks set in perfect stone (5.8). Belay
at a small stance in a prominent horizontal
slash. P2. Follow the shallow corner up and
left on excellent rock to the base of the large
roof. Grab the hero jug and enjoy the view,
then jam a steep hand crack (5.8+) through
the roof and set a belay. P3. Follow the face/
crack (5.6) to a comfy belay near the summit.
From here it is easy 5th class to the top.
- Unknown
60. Forward Never Straight
(a.k.a. Shades Of Grey)** (9‑ R)
Twenty feet right of The Greatest Route at
Greyrock lies a short right‑facing corner
capped by a roof with hand jams. Cracks and
a slightly runout face lead to a hanging belay
at the horizontal crack. Climb the face to another crack, belay near the roof and finish on
Rites of Passage.
- Laurie Parcell, C Luebben, S Schmetterer, Sally Moser
61. Rites of Passage* (8)
This very prominent left‑facing corner offers
hand jamming, off‑widthing and face climbing to a tree belay. Move up and left across
the face to a belay near the Greatest Route
at Greyrock roof. Continue for two pitches,
passing a large dead tree.
- P McGrane
62. Barfy’s Favorite** (7)
A fun climb and classic when linked with
Judy’s Jaunt. P1. Start atop a boulder and
surmount the bulge. Follow the superb hand
crack to a tree belay. P2. Lichenous cracks
lead to a second tree. Three variations exist
for pitch P3. 3a. Move left into the dihedral/
chimney and follow it to the top, traversing
left to belay on a huge ledge. 3b. Set the
belay high in a finger crack after pitch 2 and
move straight to a hand and finger crack,
veering left along a thin seem. Continue traversing left until the large belay ledge. This
variation is a little run out but the climbing
is no harder than 5.6. 3c. From the high belay, stay right and make a longer traverse left
to the large belay ledge. P4. Continue up a
right-facing dihedral, pull the short roof, and
cruise to the top.
- Unknown
64. Misty Mountain Hop* (7 R)
Ascend the face right of Barfy’s, using horizontal cracks for pro. Continue past a large,
mostly detached flake. Near the top follow a
ramp leftward to the Rites of Passage belay.
Rappel or finish up Judy’s Jaunt.
- Unknown
65. Central Chimney* (4)
This decent beginners route follows the obvious fissure to the top of Greyrock.
- Unknown
67. What Is and What
Should Never Be (9 / 7 R)
Climb up and over a roof with a left‑facing dihedral above to the right of the Central Chimney. Scour the face in search of pro. Rappel
from a tree atop the long pitch.
- Unknown
68. The Inner Mounting Flame**
(11c)
Hot thin edging and friction moves lead to a
ramp. Traverse right and rappel Black Dog, or
climb straight up easier rock for three more
pitches.
- C Luebben, S Schmetterer
69. Black Dog* (8)
Ascend a large flake leaning against the
lower wall and climb cracks past two small
roofs. Continue up or rappel.
- Unknown
70. Barefoot in the Dark* (6 or 7)
Serious meandering follows the path of least
resistance. Start in a crack 100 feet left of the
Black Wall. Move right beneath the higher set
of overhangs and go up. This route was soloed barefoot at midnight (with a headlamp).
- Laurie Parcell, solo
71. The Black Wall* (10 R)
Face climb with little protection directly towards the obvious roof/crack. Another crack
splits the second roof, with easier climbing
to finish.
- C Grossman, K Wheeler ‘85
27
GREYROCK
63. Judy’s Jaunt Variation*** (7 R)
Start on Barfy’s Favorite. At the second large
tree move up, right and belay high. Continue
up the slightly runout face and right over a
small roof to discontinuous cracks. Continue
on Barfy’s up the roof/corner.
- Unknown
66. Dancing Ladies* (7)
Start up the Central Chimney and waltz right
to a large ledge with a tree. Follow discontinuous cracks to the top.
- P McGrane, Vickie McGrane
72. Le Petit Francais** (6)
Nice beginner’s route ‑ follow the obvious
left‑facing corner.
- Unknown
73. Yosemite Sam* (8)
Hand and fist jamming up the right‑facing
corner just left of a drainage gulley leads to
a rappel tree. Be sure to check the quality of
the webbing and locker on the tree.
- Unknown
74. Where’s the Drill?* (7 R/X)
Right of the drainage, climb past a small tree
and up the unprotected face above.
- Unknown
75. 5.7 Practice Crack* (7)
The slab and dihedral below Rastajam makes
a great 30 foot boulder problem. This crack
is just off of the summit trail, just before one
reaches some steep rocky steps.
- Unknown
GREYROCK
76. Rastajam** (12a)
Rastajam sits near the trail about 200
yards past the southeast face. This obvious
left‑leaning crack has a flat bed of juniper
bushes at its base. Get stoked and jam the
short but steep finger and hand crack, starting with hard face moves. It’s also possible
to step in from the left above the face moves
- C Luebben, S Drake ‘86
(11c).
28
D - Breakers
To reach The Breakers follow the Greyrock
trail beneath the southeast face. Just before
the trail touches the lower face cut down
and right to the obvious buttress. This path
can also be followed to the Granite Sea.
78. Turtlebeak* (11b)
A short seam and face climb somewhere left
of Planet Claire.
- D Braddy, K Gibson
79. Dancin’ in the Rain* (11)
Follows three bolts up the face left of Destination Planet Claire.
3 - Unknown
80. Destination Planet Claire (8)
Do you enjoy space travel? This corner leads
past an overhang to join Wonga, Wonga,
Wonga.
- P McGrane, Wyant Clover ‘85
81. Wonga, Wonga, Wonga** (10)
Strenuous jamming up a prominent crack on
the steep wall. A flake on the wall sounds the
primordial beat “wonga, wonga, wonga” as
you move past!
- J Brink ‘85
82. Armed Response*** (12b)
Will your arms respond? This striking line
begins at Wonga... and ascends the unique
offset seam. Strenuous, sustained, sequential ‑ and sporty!
- D Braddy, K Gibson, S Drake
85
83
85
86-87
90
88-89 91
The Breakers
GREYROCK
29
96
97 98
99
100
101 102
93
103
Granite Sea
94
83. Parsnip Pete’s Last Dance* (10)
Hand jam the roof and climb over the broken
flake. The first ascent leader nearly had his
last dance when the flake broke as he was
standing on it!
- J Brink, C Luebben ‘86
84. The Good, the Bad, and the Way
Ugly (11)
In the corner just left of Crago Corner lies this
awkward, lichenous and overhanging hand
to off‑width crack. Rappel from a chockstone
just above the slot.
- Unknown
GREYROCK
85. Crago Corner*** (12a/b)
This route features three devious cruxes.
Power the awkward roof atop the large
boulder. Traverse left to a crack above the
second bolt, and balance your way back to
the corner. Pull the next roof to a left‑facing
corner, and finish on scary flakes (8R) ‑ 165
feet. Double ropes are helpful. Rack #0.5 to
#2 friend and small tri‑cams.
2 - C Luebben, Robert Warren ‘89
Three variations exist: (1) start up the right
side of the large boulder (10d); (2) avoid the
first roof by traversing in from the left (10 R);
and/or (3) continue straight up the corner
above the second bolt (11c/d R).
86. Frightline** (10a)
First climbed in a rainstorm. Ascend the surprisingly nice finger crack (not scary!). Follow
the left‑leaning roof/dihedral, and traverse
back right at a break in the dihedral. Finish
with a short easy pitch.
- P McGrane, Clover ‘85
87. Frightline Roof** (11a)
Climb Frightline but take the finger/hand
crack through the roof.
- K Gibson
88. Frightline Direct** (11)
A quick shot of fear. Instead of traversing
right on Frightline, follow the left‑leaning
crack/seam through the headwall.
- J Brink, Drake ‘86
89. Any Which Way You Can* (12a)
Climb the left‑leaning crack. When it gets
much harder float right over the crux bulge.
Finish up the corner and over another roof.
- J Brink, C Lubben ‘86
90. The Way** (12a)
Start on Any Which Way, but follow the strenuous right‑leaning crack at the Y. When the
crack ends tiptoe up the way thin face moves
past a bolt.
2 - J Brink, T Moderson, Keith
Schoepflin
91. The Medusa** (10b)
Surprisingly nice face climbing past three
bolts ‑ followed by easier rock with protection in horizontal cracks. Beware of snakes.
2 - J Brink, P McGrane ‘88
92. Fisticuffs (10c)
Tape ‘em up and duke it out over the roof.
Follow easier cracks to the top.
- Unknown
30
GREYROCK
Mark Beardsley on Armed Response (12b) © Craig Luebben Collection
31
E - The Granite Sea
To reach the Granite Sea, approach as for
the Breakers, but continue around the buttress and go down and east
to the lower tier of the Granite Sea, or climb
lower fifth class rock from below Fisticuffs
to the main tier of the Granite Sea. A more
direct approach to the Granite Sea follows the valley bottom northeast after the
meadow where you first view Greyrock. To
reach the main tier, pass beneath the lower
tier and scramble up its right side.
Lower Tier
93. The Gardener Did It* (6)
Follow a mossy left‑leaning crack and climb
over a large chockstone. Pitch 2 follows
the obvious left‑facing corner with superb
off‑widthing and hand jamming. With further
cleaning this route will become a classic.
- Unknown
GREYROCK
94. Hang 12** (10)
Press your way up the wide crack left of the
poison ivy gardens. Start itching right at the
tree and jam the left‑leaning crack to face
moves and a belay. Follow discontinuous
cracks to an exciting traverse near the top.
- P McGrane, Clover
95. A Roof* (11d ?)
About 200 feet right of the Granite Sea’s
lower tier lies A Roof, which is marked by its
A-shaped apex.
- Drake, J Brink ‘86
32
Upper Tier
96. Turquoise Tubers* (6 R)
Ascend face moves to the shallow left‑facing
corner (with shaky stoppers down low).
- Unknown
97. Ankles Away*** (10b / 6 R)
Dance on continuously thin edges until the
ankle angle breaks. Go up and left around the
roof and run it out to the rap bolts.
- C Luebben, John Byrnes, Chris Wilcox
‘89
98. I Yam What I Yam
(a.k.a Sea of Joy) *** (8+ R)
Climb steep positive edges, pull the surprisingly tame roof and run it out on easy terrain.
- C Luebben, S Schmetterer, P McGrane,
Knight ‘89
99. Rip Tide*** (8)
A short crack leads to an enjoyable face
topped by a steep flake. Follow a low‑angle
crack and traverse left to the rappel bolts.
- C Luebben, Catherine Guerbet ‘89
100. Easy Sailing** (6)
No choppy waters here. Makes a great beginner’s route ‑ particularly when combined
with The Gardener Did It. Fun climbing ascends the large right‑facing dihedral.
- P McGrane, Clover ‘85
101. Blow Me Down** (11c/d / 9 R)
Fun slab climbing leads to the prominent
horizontal crack. The bulge above creates
difficulties as you push/pull the tricky mantle.
Belay at the horizontal crack and finish up
the slab.
- C Luebben, S Schmetterer ‘89
102. The Granite Sea** (10a R)
Swim up the left‑facing corner, sail up the
corner and cruise the runout above the lone
bolt. Pitch two finishes up the easier slab.
1 - J Bassett
103. Finish the Climb and Call It
Something* (8R?)
Climb the face right of The Granite Sea using
horizontal cracks for protection.
- Unknown
F - The Ripple
The Ripple is a short cliff band that lies immediately above the Granite Sea.
105. Crack a Goo Goo (8)
Two cracks right of Friday the 14th lies a
short, awkward and lichenous hand/fist
crack. Bring a pacifier.
2 - Unknown
The Crest lies along the ridgetop northeast
of Greyrock, and is visible above the Granite
Sea in the photo on page 26. Follow the trail
past the Southeast Face and you’ll see this
wall above the switch‑backs.
106. Wiglet (7)
On the left side of The Crest just above the
trail lies this chimney climb. Wiggle your way
up.
- Drake ‘86
107. Open Up Wide* (10)
You’ll grit your teeth on this one. Inside Wiglet
chimney lies an overhanging squeeze problem. Avoid stemming the chimney to really
get you pumping!
- Unknown
108. Squeeze My Lemon (8d)
Just right of Wiglet lies an awkward squeeze
chimney. Fight through the slot to the top.
- Unknown
109. Sari Who? (9 R)
This line follows four bolts up the prominent
face and nose just downhill from the top of
the Crest.
4 - Unknown
33
GREYROCK
104. Friday the 14th (10a)
Easy jamming up a right‑facing corner leads
to a short hand jam/roof problem.
- Unknown
G - The Crest
Rasta Rock
GREYROCK
H - The Sentinel
I - Rasta Rock
Perched on the ridgetop northeast of The
Crest, The Sentinel guards Greyrock’s eastern flank. Approach the Crest, then follow
the main summit trail to the first pond on the
summit. Cut north through a notch, dropping
down slightly before heading northeast on a
faint, sparsely cairned path. Upon reaching a
sharp, pointed rock on the ridge, veer left
around the north side. The Sentinel will be
another 50 yards farther. Beware of possible
nesting falcons. If you see a nest, be respectful and avoid climbing at the area from Feb
1st through July 31st during their mating
season.
Rasta Rock lies below and southeast of The
Sentinel. Approach as for the Sentinel, but
at the sharp, pointed rock on the ridge, drop
down and right on a cairned path.
111. Buffalo Soldier** (9 R)
A circuitous and exciting route on the left
side of Rasta Rock. P1: Wander up the runout face and follow a right‑facing corner to a
left‑angling crack. Meander around difficulties en‑route to a higher left‑angling crack.
P2: Climb to a ledge and finish up the classic
(but short) finger/hand crack.
- C Luebben, C Guerbet ‘89
110. Jaminy Crackit*** (11d)
Greyrock’s most awesome crack cuts the
north face of The Sentinel. This intimidating
cleavage opens with finger jams on a 120
degree wall. The angle kicks back to 95 degrees while the crack grows to hands, fists,
and finally off‑width. Stoppers, Friends to #4,
#1 Bigbro handy.
- J Brink, C Luebben ‘86
34
GREYROCK
Craig Luebben firing Jaminy Crackit (11d) on the Sentinel. © Craig Luebben Collection
35
Tunnel Areas Overview
N
E
W
S
AL
ST
L
TH
NE
L
AL
W
N
TU
E
AC
AL
EP
THE
FIST
Y
CR
AS
RE
RA
IE
ET
THE
RTALL
UNDE
WALL
IPL
TR
THE
SAIL
ST
EA S
E
S
S
RE
TT
BU
CO 14
TRIPLE TIER
CO 14
TO MISHAWAKA
FORT COLLINS
TO ELECTRIC OCEAN
CAMERON PASS
to Crystal Wall
Palace
Triple Tier Parking
NEL
TUN
N
E
W
S
POU DRE RIVE
R
CO 14
F
IF
LE
IP
TR
36
ER
TI
CL
to Fort Collins
Mishawaka
Triple Tier Area
The Laughing Man
Upper Echelon Wall
Tra
il t
ot
he
Sa
il
Middle Class Wall
The FIST
Just out of view
on the other side
of the river
Chimney Sweep Wall
The Triple Tier Area offers some of the best
rock in the canyon, but surprisingly has only
been recently developed as a sport climbing
crag. Early ascents in the area were more
focused on the lower angle climbing on the
south side of the Triple Tier ridge, but also
included an ascent of the Laughing Man, a
small, sketchy tower on the southwest edge
of the Upper Echelon. In the late 1990’s, Don
Braddy, Jeff Bassett and others aided up
various lines at the Upper Echelon, but no info
was recorded and only a random smattering
of manky fixed gear marks the ascents.
Around 2005, development of the various
tiers began with Paul Heyliger, Greg Hand and
others working on the Chimney Sweep Wall,
while Bryan Beavers, Derek Peavey, Matt
Samet and Ken Gibson developed most of the
To reach the Chimney Sweep Wall, Middle
Class Wall, Upper Echelon, Laughing Man and
Sail formation, park in the long pullout on the
west side of the road immediately before the
tunnel. Walk downstream 100 yards, turning
onto a small cairned path shortly after the
road sign. Follow the steep, loose path
through the scree field and up the narrowing
gully (be careful not to knock rocks onto the
road). Ascending the trail, you will pass the
Chimney Sweep Wall, The Middle Class Wall
and eventually the Upper Echelon before
reaching a small saddle. From the saddle,
it is possible to easily walk to the Sail by
continuing south another 50 yards. To reach
the Undertall Wall and Fist, walk downstream
300 yards from the parking area and find
a suitable place to cross the river (1.0 ft or
lower).
37
TRIPLE TIER
Type(s): Trad, Sport
Difficulty Range: 5.10a - 5.13b
Approach Time: 10 - 20 minutes
Season: Apr-Oct
Middle Class Wall and Upper Echelon. Steve
McCorkel and Ben Scott have also recently
added several excellent lines at the area. To
date, a small amount of development is still
being done, so be extremely careful of falling
rock and a loose trail.
THE SAIL
XX
The Laughing Man
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5
3
4
7
6
10
9
Routes
1&2
On Back
The Sail
TRIPLE TIER
(a.k.a. Bandito’s Bat Roost)
Shortly after Mishawaka, Hwy 14 curves
north and The Sail, an impressive
freestanding formation, comes into view
high on the hillside to the left. Although
it looks intimidating and steep, the Sail
actually has a variety of angles and routes
of all grades. The formation offers excellent
position, exposure and views of the canyon.
In addition, it is climbable for most of the
year given the aspect of its various faces.
Originally named Bandito’s Bat Roost, the
formation saw climbing activity in the early
1970’s on it’s east face, but received little
attention until recently when it was briefly
38
explored in the mid ‘90’s by Greg Martin and
Gregg Purnell, then received little attention
until recently when Bryan Beavers and Matt
Samet began finishing and establishing lines
on the steeper faces.
Approach
To reach the Sail, park and approach as
for the Triple Tier Area. Hike to the Upper
Echelon, then continue through the narrow
saddle on the wall’s right side (passing below
the Laughing Man). From the saddle, follow
a faint path south to the back side of the
Sail, which will be visible. Routes are listed
from left to right as you approach from the
backside.
1. Keelhaul** (12+)
Begin on the sharp downhill (SW) arête of the
Sail, then traverse left after clipping the 3rd
bolt. Climb into a powerful shallow dihedral
feature, then up to shared anchors of next
route.
10 - Ted Lanzano, Matt Samet
2. Half-Mast** (12)
Begin as for previous route, but make fun
moves up, then step right back to the arête
and keep it together for a short crimping crux
up higher. Excellent position.
10 - Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen ‘09
3. Plate Tectonics (11a)
P1: Climb the face to the right of uphill arête,
belaying at the bolted station. P2: Follow
flake system to the right, climbing the right
line past 5 bolts.
10 - B Beavers ‘08
5. Anchor Thief* (11c)
Located about 5 feet to the left of the big flake
block at the base of the wall, head straight
up the wall passing a short undercling crux
and cool compression moves up the final
headwall. Avoid stepping right at the top for
the full pump value.
9 - B Beavers
7. Velvet Tan (10c)
Recently bolted. Begin in middle of large
flake, heading up easy climbing to connect
with the crux of Velvet Brown.
8 - B Beavers ‘09
8. Unnamed (?)
Begin as for Wolverine, but continue following
the crack system left around the corner and
out a short roof section up high.
- Unknown
9. Wolverine** (11)
Follow left angling crack that splits the lower
half of the wall. Move right midway up the
crack after clipping a fixed pin, but before it
turns into a corner feature, finishing on an
easier, but sparsely protected slab to anchors
in a pegmatite depression.
- FA Unknown FFA B Beavers ‘08
10. Bandito’s Bat Roost (8)
Choose your own adventure up the east
face of the Sail, ending on the anchors of
Wolverine, or continuing another pitch to
the summit. This was likely the first route
developed on the formation and the exact
location of the line is somewhat vague.
Random pins and other historic memorabilia
can be found scattered on the face.
- FA Steve Allen, Jim Peyrouse 1971
39
TRIPLE TIER
4. Mish Mast (11d/12a)
P1: Begin just left of the left facing corner
system. Move into the corner then finish
up the green lichen stripe with a slightly
awkward crux at the top. Belay as for Plate
Tectonics. P2: Follow the far left bolt line past
5 more bolts. Linking the first two pitches of
both routes is possible, as is lowering with a
60 meter rope from the top anchors.
6 - B Beavers
6. Velvet Brown** (10c)
Make crux moves off the large flake block,
then continue up the thoughtful and excellent
brown streak and upper dihedral.
8 - B Beavers
Undertall Wall
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XX
A
C
B
TRIPLE TIER
The Laughing Man
Undertall Wall
Precariously perched on the ridgeline just
north of the Sail is a small, but defined
pinnacle known as the Laughing Man.
Despite the fact that the upper portion of the
pinnacle appears to be cracked and merely
sitting on the pedestal below it, the formation
seems to beckon climbers and was likely
climbed before Steve Allen and Rodney Ley
made the first known ascent in 1971.
This deceptively short wall is found directly
across from the Sail on the east side of
the river, but boasts some excellent rock in
places.
North Side Move (4)
To reach this one and only summit route, hike
to the saddle on the Upper Echelon’s right
side, then make exposed 4th and 5th class
scramble moves around the south end of the
spire. Ascend the north face of the pinnacle
to the small summit. Don’t let the mellow
rating fool you. This route is serious and
exposed. Descend by making a tricky rappel
back to the saddle.
40
A. Undertall* (10+)
Climb the perfect, laser cut hand crack on the
right side of the overhanging wall. Beware of
loose rock in the upper half of the route.
- FA Bryan Beavers, Lance Schultz ‘04
B. Frozen Echo** (12c)
Boulder up beautiful rock past edges and
slots to rest before black headwall. Place two
small pieces through the pumpy headwall
crack to the anchors.
4 - B Scott
C. Booty Prize* (11d)
Scramble up ledges to the first bolt, climb
edgey terrain to a hard crux at the last bolt
on some of the best rock in the lower canyon
4 - B Scott
TRIPLE TIER
Doug McKee working the crux of Frozen Echo (12c), photo: BS
41
THE FIST
XX
E
D
The Fist
Slightly upstream from the Undertall Wall is
a short tower of rock situated atop a broken
cliffband rising out of the river. Two bolted
routes can be found on its south face. When
Steve Allen and Rodney Ley made the 1972
ascent of the south face route (moving
around to the north face route midway) they
found a note found in a band aid box on the
summit that documented the ascent of the
North Face route by the Bovine Climbing
Club sometime prior to 1970. To reach the
fist, park as for the Upper Echelon, walk
downstream 300 yards, then find a suitable
wading spot to get to the tower’s base.
TRIPLE TIER
D. Legos (11)
Start off of the ledge on the south face of
the freestanding portion of the fist by either
climbing a short, but ledgy and bushy pitch
out of the river, or bushwack up the gully.
From the ledge, clip a couple of bolts, then
pull a short roof to easier terrain and the
summit.
- B. Beavers, L. Schultz ‘04
E. Abbey Ale (10a/b)
Begin as for Legos, but step left around the
corner just below the roof. As Craig Luebben
pulled onto the summit on the first ascent, he
was pleasantly surprised to find a cold bottle
of his favorite New Belgium brew, Abbey Ale,
waiting for him. A couple of his friends had
scrambled to the top and stashed it there
prior to his ascent as a summit bonus.
C. Luebben
42
Chimney Sweep Wall
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4
5
1
2
3
Chimney Sweep Wall
(a.k.a Shit-In-Your Eye Wall)
This short, streaked wall is found on the
left about 100 yards up the Triple Tier trail.
Traverse along a narrow ledge to get to all of
the climbs, which are listed left to right.
2. The Flue** (10c)
Make easy layback moves up the flake/ledge
system, following black hangers.
5
4. Elijah** (12b/c)
Climb the flake system left of the orange
lichen spots. Small cams and stoppers
protect the beginning, while a .5 Camalot is
useful for protecting the finish.
3
5. Bert* (10b)
Follow the right angling ramp/corner system.
4
43
TRIPLE TIER
1. Git Wood* (11c)
“Until I was 12, I thought my name was git
wood” – Don Maynard. This route climbs
a tan streak on the far left side of the wall,
starting just right of a black streak with a
large moss patch down low. Bring a long
sling for a bomber horn at the break.
4
3. Soot** (12a)
Head up the short layback flake past 2 bolts to
a shallow left facing dihedral before moving
past 2 more bolts to the anchors. Watch for
the yellowjacket nest at the top! Finger sized
pieces protect the runout in the middle.
4
XX
Middle Class Wall
XX
XX
XX
XX
10
6
7
11
9
8
Middle Class Wall
Located directly above the Chimney Sweep
Wall, and about another 40 yards up the
trail is the Middle Class Wall. Make a short
scramble move to attain the ledge system
that leads to the base of the main portion of
the wall.
TRIPLE TIER
6. Blue Collar Baby (11b)
Begin 10 yards left of Streaky Stylee, just
below an obvious layback feature. Move up
and left into a technical stemming crux, then
follow the clean rock up to a steeper finish.
10 - B. Beavers ‘09
7. Streaky Stylee*** (11d)
Begin on the left side of the smiley face,
make powerful moves to gain the slab, then
head up and right out the excellent angling
prow on the headwall.
8. Goin’ Streakin’** (11d/12a)
From the right side of the smiley face, head
up the black streak on the slab, eventually
pulling the roof of the crack route, then
traversing back left to climb the headwall by
staying just right of the angling prow on the
previous route
44
9. Middle Class Cracker** (10a/b)
This fun route follows the crack system that
starts just right of the smiley face. Climb
the short dihedral, undercling out the roof,
surmount the slab (crux), then enjoy the
right angling crack that splits the right side
of the headwall. Be wary of loose blocks on
the middle ledge.
- B. Beavers ‘09
10. Twinkletoes*** (13a)
Begin right of crack roof, then climb up past
5 bolts to overhanging headwall. Climb left
bolt line up streaked face.
11 - B Beavers ‘09
11. Mass Appeal*** (12b)
Climb the streak on the far right side of
the Middle Class Wall. The upper part is a
beautiful overhanging wall, but there is a bit
of slab climbing to get there.
11 - D Peavey, B Beavers ‘09
TRIPLE TIER
Jason Tarry on the low crux of Dream of Poudre (12d), photo: BS
45
16,17,18,19
XX
UPPER ECHELON
20,21,22
XX XX
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13,14
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22
14
13
17
23
15
12
16
18
19
21
Upper Echelon
(a.k.a. The Old Aid Wall or Quarry Wall)
TRIPLE TIER
Few crags in the Poudre Canyon can rival this
wall’s high concentration of excellent routes
on fantastic stone. By nature, most of the
lines are difficult with thuggish and powerful
moves uncharacteristic of typical climbing in
the canyon. Hike past the Middle Class Wall,
taking care on the loose scree trail leading
up the gully.
12. Pinklepile (11b)
Climb blocky/chossy ground to an obvious
ledge feature. Continue towards a steep
prow and the crux right before the anchor.
10 - Matt Samet Kristen Bjornsen ‘09
46
13. Tamed Donkeys** (11d/12a)
Start as for Moose Knuckles, but move left
along the flake system to a low crux and fun
mantle at the top. The first bolt is high, but
the climbing is easy and can be protected
with a finger sized piece of gear.
7 -D Peavey, K Gibson ‘08
14. Moose Knuckles*** (12b)
Climb the obvious splitter crack on the left
side of the upper tier. The crux comes down
low at the short roof section but be sure to
bring a large piece or two for the upper part.
A #5 Camalot works best.
- Steve McCorkel ‘08
15. O.D.K.
(a.k.a. Old Man’s Route)**** (12a)
A short bouldery section down low is
followed by excellent climbing up layback/
gaston features between good holds to the
right of Moose Knuckles. Fantastic!
10 - D Peavey, K Gibson ‘06
19. Dark Horse*** (Project)
The hardest line at the crag. Stick clip first
bolt and do a sustained v10ish problem to
the 3rd bolt. Continue on easier terrain till the
low-percentage jump move at the end of the
overhang. Finish on Dream of Poudre.
11 - open project
16. The Pinklebear*** (12c)
More sustained than Old Man, this route
offers a similar bouldery section down low,
followed by a continuous redpoint crux up
high after a good rest. Move right at the
ledge up high to finish on the last 3 bolts of
Dream of Poudre.
12 - M. Samet, D. Peavey ‘09
20. Folsom Flute*** (13b/c)
Begin just right of the blank section in the
middle of the wall. Make hard bouldery
moves off the ground and move through
easier, but pumpy climbing to finish at the
anchors of Tailspin.
10 - Ben Scott ‘09
17.Dream Of Poudre*** (12d)
The obvious black stain that runs the length
of the steep wall. Do a low crux at the 3rd
bolt and hang on for the rest of the excellent
headwall.
10 - D Peavey, Adam Peters ‘08
22. Tailspin**** (12b)
From the right side up the upper ledge, make
big, pumpy moves up horizontals to a fun
slab finish. One of the finest routes of the
grade in the canyon.
23. Shoulda Coulda* (11a)
Climb big jugs up the right arête of the Upper
Eschelon. Good holds on the arête pull you
right, but harder climbing can be found by
following the bolt line. A good warm-up for
the harder routes.
47
TRIPLE TIER
18. Dark Pony*** (13b)
Climb the crux of Dream of Poudre, then
move right after clipping the 3rd bolt. Head
up through short boulder problems until you
reach a technical dyno crux to a glory jug just
before pulling onto the slab. Finish at the
anchors of Dream of Poudre or Folsom Flute.
10 - Ben Scott ‘09
21. Folsom Flute Easy Var.*** (12d)
The initial direct boulder problem can be
skipped by starting on Tailspin and traversing
left into Folsom Flute at the first bolt.
10 - D Peavey ‘09
CRYSTAL WALL
BS jumping to the jug on Dark Pony (13b)
48
Crystal Wall
6
2
13
ED
FIX
16
summer. In addition, no
river crossing is required
to access the wall, making
the wall a popular summer
destination when many
other crags in the canyon
are either inaccessible
or too hot. The approach
isn’t super dog friendly,
nor is the scree field that
runs the length of the
west face. Be very careful
about rockfall, as the entire
wall is directly above the
road. Rattlesnakes are also
commonly seen in the area
during the summer months.
PE
RO
This wall, which lies above the Crystal Rapids
on the Poudre River, received sporadic
exploration by climbers like Craig Luebben,
Vance White, Casey Rosenbach, and Lizz
Grenard until the late ‘90’s when the wall
was briefly forgotten. As development
slowed at the nearby Palace in 2004, locals
Bryan Beavers, Derek Peavey, Ken Gibson,
Paul Heyliger and others began establishing
many excellent routes. Today, the Crystal
Wall offers several of the area’s finest lines
of all grades.
With north and west aspects, the Crystal Wall
stays shaded until late afternoon during the
Nearly all the routes have bolted belay
stations, where making one or two 60 meter
rappels will bring you back to the ground.
Descend from the few traditional lines with
natural anchors by locating the nearest
bolted rappel station. Walking off to the
southwest is possible, but not recommended.
49
CRYSTAL WALL
Difficulty Range: 5.7 - 5.13a/b
Approach Time: 10 minutes
Season: Apr-Oct
Approach
The Crystal Wall and Palace
share the same parking
pullout, which may be
found 15.2 miles from Ted’s
place. Walk downstream 200 yards on the
river side of the road, past a road sign, then
carefully cross the road. The trail scrambles
up a steep ramp through the roadcut,
passing a small tree and fixed rope. From
here, follow the obvious cairned trail to the
northwest corner of the Crystal Wall. The
first climb you will come to is Clean Up On
Aisle 9. Branching off to the left takes you
to the north face routes, while heading right
leads up the steep scree gully to the west
wall and corridor routes.
Crystal Wall North Face
LEFTSIDE
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2
3
4
6
CRYSTAL WALL
5
50
8
7
North Face
1. Down on the Pharm (7)
Hidden on the far left side of the Crystal
Wall, this route starts 50 feet left of Orange
Crimpsicle. P1: Head up good rock on a
slab before stepping right over a corner and
continuing to a ledge and belay. P2: Still in
progress
7 - Sam Shannon
2. Orange Crimpsicle ** (12d)
From the far left edge of the large ledge system, move up a green and orange streak on
very thin holds.
11 - D. Peavey ‘04
3. Mood For A Day (10a)
Begin in the shallow corner system just right
of Orange crimpsicle. P1 Follow the seldom
traveled crack system up the dihedral to
belay on the obvious ledge just above the
anchor of Fahrenheit 5.11. P2 Step back left
and continue up the dihedral, moving right
at top to anchors of Fahrenheit 5.11
- Unknown
6. Thursday Afternoon Hooky (10b
R)
This is the obvious crack line splitting the
Crystal Wall. P1: Climb the crack right of
Fantastic Planet. Set up a belay before the
pro runs out in the dihedral or step right to
the anchors of Tool Man. P2: Continue up
the corner as it eventually turns into a stem
box and the protection becomes difficult.
- Unknown
7. Tool Man** (11c)
Begin just right of Thursday Afternoon
Hooky, moving past several bolts of fun
moderate climbing before reaching a crimpy
boulder problem at the last bolt. Two grey
spackled hangers mark the beginning of this
route.
9 - B. Beavers
51
CRYSTAL WALL
4. Fahrenheit 5.11** (12b)
P1: Climb up the black streak to the right of
the licheny crack system past 9 bolts. P2:
Continue up wavy slab on thin crimps.
9 - D Peavey, Tim Wilhelmi, J Doyle ‘04
5. Fantastic Planet** (11c or 10a)
This was one of the first routes to be developed on the wall. P1: Climb fractured rock
in the tan streak past 3 bolts to a large flake,
then continue past 1 more bolt up wavy slab
to chains of previous route (9+). P2: Climb
the sparsely bolted face to the right of Fahrenheit 5.11, using gear to supplement the
runouts. It is possible to move right at the
crux and make the climb significantly easier.
4 - C Luebben et al
Crystal Wall North Face
RIGHTSIDE
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8
11
6
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7
CRYSTAL WALL
6
9
8
11
10
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13
14
52
16
17
8. Tour De Poudre**** (12b/c)
With the first pitch going at 10a/b, this
route is one of the finest in the canyon, and
an absolute must-do for anyone visiting. P1:
Climb past 7 bolts to a series of right facing
gastons before heading up the final headwall with big moves between good holds.
P2: Make difficult moves up thin crimps
before the angle eventually eases
18 - D Peavey, Tim Wilhelmi, J Doyle ‘04
9. Silver Girl** (10c)
P1: Head up past the blocky section of
climbing to a shallow pegmatite groove,
making cruxy moves at the last bolt before
clipping the Fixe sport anchor.
11 - T Wilhelmi, D Peavey, Ceceli Wilhelmi ‘04
11. Balaam* (11c)
Easy climbing to a hole at the 3rd bolt leads
to a short layback section and crimpy crux
near the top. Easily toproped by leading
Fantastic Planet.
9
13. Gates Of Crystal* (7+)
Just to the right of two trees on the Crystal
Wall’s western edge, you will find three fun
moderates, including this one that follows
the left line of bolts up blocky edges.
5
14. Lunch Bucket Crack* (8-)
Follow the crack feature up the middle bolt
line. A hand sized piece of gear can supplement the runout between the 2nd and 3rd
bolts and another hand-sized cam for
the run to the anchors.
4
CRYSTAL WALL
10. Crystal Method* (11+ R)
Begin just right of Silver Girl, following the
intermittent crack system to a bolt (red
painted hanger), then make delicate moves
above (crux), until gear reappears and the
climbing eases up slightly. Continue climbing straight up, staying to the left of the 2nd
pitch of Fantastic Planet. Descend as for
Fantastic Planet.
4 - B Beavers ‘05
12. Better Than Watching Television
*** (11c)
P1: Begin at two old cold shuts, meandering right, then back left again (10a) before
clipping Metolius rap bolts. This pitch
originally only had 3 bolts, but has since
been retrobolted, making it far more popular,
even though it is still spicier than most other
routes of its grade on the wall. P2: Climb
thin crimps with a low crux and easing
difficulty.
7 - Vance White, Casey Rosenback
‘94/’95
15. Clean-Up On Aisle 9* (9-)
Climb fun blocky edges up the rightmost
part of the Crystal Wall’s north face.
6
53
CRYSTAL WALL
Sue Scott on the first pitch of Tour De Poudre (10a/b), photo: BS
54
XX
Crystal Wall WEST FACE
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16
XX
22
17
18
19
20
21
West Face
The next routes are found on the west face
of the Crystal Wall. Approach by taking the
right fork in the trail as you near the northwest corner of the main buttress.
16. Sea Of Lichen (8)
Make easy, but unprotected moves up to the
bottom of the steep, green lichen covered
pegmatite band, then step left onto the
slabby, but lichen covered face.
5 - B Beavers ‘05
18. Nancy (8+)
Abundant edges lead through this nasty, rotten, overhanging off-width / chimney on the
west face of Crystal Wall. The first ascent
leader named this after his sister - what a
tribute! Bring extra wide gear, although it is
possible to clip several bolts from nearby
sport lines if you desire.
- C. Luebben et al.
20. Good Ol’ Boys* (12b/c)
Climb the face to the right of Pumpin’ Puff
Muffins, moving to the prow/offwidth at the
last bolt. Bailing left earlier makes it easier.
5 - B Beavers ‘05
21. The General Lee** (12b)
Start as for Good Ol’ Boys, but head up and
right through the fractured face after the
second bolt. Fun movement and the rock is
better than it looks.
22. Bosch Hog (11b)
Squeeze up the steep, broken prow just left
of the offwidth on the right side of the wall,
finishing on the anchors of General Lee
5 - B Beavers ‘03
55
CRYSTAL WALL
17. Pet Cemetary (11c)
Climb the hand/finger crack to the ledge,
then step slightly left and clip bolts as you
squeeze your way up the prow. A bit contrived, but fun. Named for the plethora of
dead animals that were found in Nancy and
at the base during the time of the FA.
5 - B Beavers, Steve Reed ’03
19. Pumpin’ Puff Muffins* (10)
Great hand, fist and off-width jamming leads
up the steep west face of the Crystal Wall.
Bring extra large hand pieces as well
as Big Bros.
- C. Luebben et al.
CRYSTAL WALL
Brian Spiering dances up Ballet Of The Bulge (11b) on the County Line Wall
56
County Line Wall
XX
XX
23
23. County Line*** (8)
Climb the southwest arête of the Crystal
wall. Excellent stone and movement.
7 - Laura Girard ‘05
25. Ballet Of The Bulge*** (11b)
Follow thin crimps on excellent rock up the
right side of the corridor face, ending at the
chains of Inyerbuttkwa.
5 - B Beavers, Kathy Beavers ‘03
25
27. Britney’s Spear** (11c)
Ascend the north face of the steep prow
feature at the top of the Crystal Wall
formation. An approach pitch climbs the
gully from the east side of the County Line
corridor
5 - B Beavers, Lance Schultz,
Jack Reed ‘04
CRYSTAL WALL
24. Inyerbuttkwa** (10c)
Climb the steep arête in the corridor, finishing with a technical move just before the
anchors.
6 - B Beavers, Steve Reed ‘03
24
28. Eye In The Sky*** (13a/b)
Climb the right arête of the pillar, staying
primarily on the south face.
26. She’s A Diasy* (9)
This route is found 40 yards uphill from
County Line. Follow the broken, blunt prow
to the top of the only semi-solid section of
the upper west wall. The route has reddish
painted hangers.
12 - B Beavers, Lance Schultz ‘04
57
Palace Overview Map
E
C
S
W
N
B
A
F
A - Poudre Face
B - Lion’s Den
C - B.B.T. Wall
D - Mineshaft Wall
E - The Chamber
F - Red Wall
G - The Scepter
H - Palace Pages
I - The Citadel
K - Wall With A View
L - Cirque Du Poudre
M - Vatoville
N - D-Man
E
G
TO MISHAWAKA
FORT COLLINS
E
IN
M
H
CO 14
PO
UD
RE
RI
VE
R
D
CED
TRAIL TO
CRYSTAL WALL
AR
I
C
RE
EK
M
PALACE
K
L
TO D-MAN
TO ELECTRIC OCEAN
CAMERON PASS
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The Palace
(a.k.a. Psilocybin Canyon)
LION’S DEN
WALL WITH
A VIEW
RED WALL
THE CITADEL
DC CORNER
Type(s): Sport, Trad
Difficulty Range: 5.6 - 5.13a
Approach Time: 10 minutes
Season: Feb-May; Aug-Nov
Max Wading Level: 1.75 feet
Overview
The earliest climbing exploration of the area
is largely a mystery. Climbers had sum-
mited the main pinnacles and walls by the
early ‘70’s, although no info is available
about specific ascents. In 1972, the area
was dubbed Psilocybin Canyon and many
of the crack lines received early ascents.
However, it wasn’t until the early ‘90’s that
the area began to see significant development. Rob Poutre, Ron Ambrose and others
bolted routes on the Tommyknocker Wall
(now Mineshaft Wall) and the Citadel. Shortly
thereafter, Steve McCorkel and others established several routes on Sunday Buttress
(now the Lion’s Den). Beginning in 1998, Tim
Wilhelmi, Derek Peavey, Judson Doyle, Sam
Shannon, Ken Gibson and others became
very active in establishing sport lines, and, by
2006, the majority of routes had been bolted.
Now commonly known as the Palace, the
area has quickly become the most popular
sport climbing destination near Fort Collins,
and offers over 100 routes of all grades.
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PALACE
The Palace is an impressive assortment
of spires and thin rock fins just upstream
from the Crystal Rapids and Baldwin Tunnel.
Carved in half by Cedar Creek, the Palace
was once the site of a prospector homestead
in the late 1800’s (the ruins can still be found
400 yards past Vatoville) and an unproductive mine which was quickly abandoned.
Although the Palace was never a source of
valuable minerals, the area has long been a
rich resource for climbers.
POUDRE FACE
Liz Wall on Drawn and Quartered (11a) on the Lower Chamber Wall
PALACE
Given the geology of the area, the Palace has
a wide variety of aspects, making it climbable for much of the year, even well into winter. Spring runoff generally makes the river
impassible from May through July or August.
Tyrolean traverses are discouraged given the
width of the river and number of rafters and
boaters that pass by during high water. The
rock quality is varied and can be bullet hard
or crystally and flaky. Despite lots of traffic, rockfall can be common and wearing a
helmet is a good idea. The Palace is mazelike and many walls are directly above other
routes or access trails, so please be extremely careful to avoid knocking rocks down on
other climbers.
Dogs are allowed, but please keep them on a
leash to respect other climbers and for their
safety. Bears and mountain lions have been
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seen at the Palace, and rattlesnakes are
common in the summer.
Directions
Park in the large pullout on the north side of
the road 15.2 miles from Ted’s Place. Wade
across the river, then find the main access
trail that follows Cedar Creek upstream toward the Palace. The shallowest path across
the river is found by angling from the parking
lot, downstream toward the line of rocks and
island. Just before reaching the island, cross
the final channel. Wading straight across is
possible at lower water, but a deep channel exists just before the far bank. A wading
staff, trekking poles, waders and a dry set of
clothes are recommended. The crossing becomes dangerous and impassable when the
river reaches 1.75 ft or higher. If the crossing
looks dubious, it’s best to find a different crag
for the day.
PALACE
Shaina Sabatine taking a cruise on Churchill Rejects (9+)
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A. Poudre Face
PALACE
Visible from the parking lot, the Poudre Face
is the obvious long wall that guards entrance
into the Palace. In general, the rock tends
to be a bit crystally, but there are a number
of moderate routes and the wall gets early
morning sun, making it a popular destination
in the winter. Be wary of snakes in the
summer. To reach the Palace Face, cross
the river and follow the trail leading up the
Cedar Creek. Upon reaching Drawbridge
(9+), a short bolted route which marks the
beginning of climbing at the Palace, take
the right fork of the trail and continue hiking
another couple of minutes. Routes are listed
left to right as you will encounter them
ascending the trail.
1. Where’s The Beef?*** (12b/c)
Make thin technical moves up the pegmatite
face speckled with green lichen. Located
about 40 yards below where the trail
switchbacks and first touches the Poudre
Face, this is the lowest route on the wall.
5 - Derek Peavey, Judson Doyle, Tim
Wilhelmi ‘05
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2. Check Your Head*** (10b/c)
This was the first bolted line to be developed
on the Poudre Face. Follow the juggy right
leaning crack, moving slightly left to the
anchors at the top. First climbed by Steve
McCorkel on gear prior to being bolted.
10 - FA Pre-Bolts S. McCorkel
3. Check Your Six** (11b)
This is a direct start to Check Your Head.
Make thin slab moves up to easier climbing.
9 - S Shannon, T Wilhelmi ‘04
4. Cheerleaders Gone Hippie* (9+)
Climb the crack feature right of Check Your
Head to a crux in the water runnel. The first
bolt is a glue-in.
8 - S. Shannon, T Wilhelmi ‘03
5. Rocks For Jocks (8 R)
Grovel up the chimney, clipping a couple of
random bolts, then step left onto the face, pull
a short bulge and finish with Cheerleaders
Gone Hippie. Bizarre and not recommended.
4 - S Shannon ‘04
6. Crossbow (10b)
Meander up the broken face, clipping red
painted hangers.
8 - S. Shannon ‘04
7. Flail* (11a)
Found ten yards uphill from Crossbow, this
route ascends the green arête just left of
the bushy gully with a thoughtful squeezing
crux up high. Surprisingly more solid than
it looks..
8. Cal Trop (9)
The bolts follow the obvious clean rock, but
the climbing pulls you to the juggy arête to
the left.
9. Creepy* (10b)
Climb the green lichen streak with a bulge
midway up. This route is much better since
a large loose block has been removed.
10. B.A.H (9+)
Big jugs lead out bulges. The acronym
stands for Big Assed Holds, although if you
say it fast, it takes on another meaning.
5 - S. Shannon solo
11. Palace Guard (10b)
Make bouldery crux moves past two bolts,
then climb the enjoyable finger crack,
finishing with one more bolt at the top. Finger
sized gear and stoppers protect the crack.
3 - S. Shannon solo
12. Loyalist (9)
Climb the flake layback left of the bushy
water runnel.
13. River Rats (7)
Follow jugs up the bulbous arête.
14. Turtle Head (7)
Located 15 yards uphill from River rats is this
moderate which climbs big moves on good
holds up the face to the left of the orange and
black streak.
15. Orange You Glad (7)
Climb the orange lichen covered groove to
the pillar finish. Chossy.
PALACE
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LION’S DEN
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TO B.B.T.
TO LION’S DEN
B. The Lion’s Den
(a.k.a. Sunday Buttress)
Just uphill from the Palace Face is a tall,
clean wall with a few routes on it. The rock
quality is exceptional on several of the lines,
but the crag seldom sees traffic due to its
isolated location. To reach the Lion’s Den,
hike past the Poudre Face, continuing uphill
on a faint trail, then traverse right along a
ledge system to the base of the crag. A line
of cairns leading to B.B.T. branches off to the
left just after the end of the Poudre face. A
number of crack lines exist, but aren’t listed
because they are generally overgrown, bushy
and may be awaiting an FA if you can haul up
a hedge trimmer with you.
PALACE
16. Big As A House (10b)
Climb the broken crack feature to the left of
Sunday’s Child. Follow the crack feature to
the right before reaching the V-slot to reach
the chain anchors of Sunday’s Child.
- S McCorkel, Joe Vallone ‘93
17. Sunday’s Child*** (12c/d)
Start in the obvious flake seam with superb
rock, moving slightly left, then over a short
roof at the top. Bring a red TCU to supplement the bolts.
6 - S McCorkel, Becky McCorkel ‘95
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18. Stanley’s Steamer (11c)
From the right side of the small roof, follow
the blunt layback feature to the lower angle
gully, then step right onto the face and a line
of bolts.
- S McCorkel, Joe Carpenter ‘92
19. Shit, Piss, Spit Up & Drool**
(12b)
Do a short boulder problem past two bolts,
then climb a short crack section before stepping left to the bolt line finish of Stanley’s
Steamer.
- S McCorkel, B McCorkel ‘95
20. Rabble Rouser* (10b)
Ten yards right of the main Lion’s Den face,
you will find this climb, which starts in a
short finger crack, then moves past two
bolts and finishes with a thin crack. Bring
extra thin gear and a #3 Camalot for above
the 2nd bolt
- S. Shannon, T Wilhelmi ‘05
21. Bodies Like Sheep (10c)
Wrangle your way up to the giant bulb and
first bolt, then cruise past 3 more bolts and
an easier finish.
B.B.T.
on your left. The corridor is loose, so be
careful about knocking rocks onto people at
the Chamber Wall. Routes are listed left to
right as you approach from the ridge.
Wear a helmet.
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23. Lichen It** (12)
Flat edges on the walls left arête lead to
harder climbing the higher you get. Nice
rock, but don’t blow the 3rd clip.
6 - B Beavers ‘03
24. Steep & Cheap** (11d)
From the obvious crack feature up the
center of the wall, move left to finish on
Lichen It.
7 - B Beavers ‘03
22. The 13th Step* (10a)
Just to the right of the previous route, you
will find a nice, right leaning finger crack.
Jam the crack and squeeze the arête to the
top of this nice route. The crack takes gear
to 2” and can be a bit tricky to protect.
- Chris Donharl, S Shannon ‘05
C - B.B.T. WALL
(a.k.a. Big Beaver Tail)
26. Breakin’ Trail (10c)
Nice climbing up the right crack leads to a
crumbly looking face up higher.
7 - B Beavers, Steve Reed, Jack Reed ‘03
27. Forest Fire (11b)
Pull over a short roof at the bottom, then
pick your way through the fractured face
and more solid rounded prow finish. Clip the
belayer into the bolt at the bottom
7 - B Beavers, S Reed, J Reed ‘03
28. Cross Mojonation! (11a)
From around the right arête, climb on dubious rock until you can cross back over onto
the corridor face and finish on the last 2
bolts of Forest Fire. Clip the belayer into the
bolt at the bottom.
7 - B Beavers ‘03
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PALACE
The B.B.T. is a small fin that sits directly
above the Upper Chamber Wall. Despite
being a part of the inner Palace, a short
section of cliffband makes accessing the
B.B.T. from the Chamber Wall impossible.
The B.B.T. offers a couple of nice routes and
is worth a visit if you are chasing shade or
looking for excellent views of the rest of the
Palace. To reach the B.B.T. hike toward the
Lion’s Den and turn left onto a faint cairned
path just after passing the end of the Poudre
Face. The path leads up and over the ridge,
dropping you into the corridor with the B.B.T.
25. Gangsta Man In A Cadillac* (11a)
Climb the first 3 bolts of Steep & Cheap,
then veer right up the white streak.
6 - B Beavers, K Beavers ‘03
THE MINESHAFT WALL
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PALACE
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D. Mineshaft Wall
(a.k.a. Tommyknocker Wall)
In general the rock quality is excellent, the
access is easy and the routes are fun, making
the Mineshaft one of the most popular walls
at the Palace. To reach the Mineshaft Wall,
cross the Poudre and follow the trail up the
Cedar Creek. You will pass a short 3 bolt
route, Drawbridge (9+) and a 5 bolt route, It
Is What It Is (11a), just before reaching the
main section of the Mineshaft Wall.
29. It Is What It Is* (11a)
Climb the narrow face on the far right side
of the Mineshaft Wall. Similar to Drawbridge
but harder.
5 - D Peavey, J Doyle ‘04
30. Powerpoint (10d)
Climb right arête to 4th bolt, then move left
through blocky sidepulls to jug on face.
5 - D Peavey, T Wilhelmi ‘05
31. Death and Disfiguration* (11c)
(a.k.a. Eagle Dance)
Follow left angling crack on slopey edges and
sidepulls to an easier bulge. There used to
be a very large and very detached arch that
was the route’s namesake, but now it rests in
pieces on the ground.
6 - Rob Poutre, Ron Ambrose ‘91-93
32. Strictly Business** (10c)
(a.k.a. Miner Infraction)
Climb the blocky crack past first bolt, then
continue straight up the face on good rock
with slopey edges.
4 -Rob Poutre, Ron Ambrose ‘91-93
Rebolted by T Wilhelmi
34. Monstrosity*** (10b)
(a.k.a. Ghost Miners)
Although the holds are big on this route, the
line is a bit more devious than other Palace
routes of the grade. Fun and excellent.
Rebolted by T. Wilhelmi, Jim Bowes, Ceceli
Wilhelmi
35. Rapid Fire** (12d)
Begin just right of the mine shaft. Climb the
orange streak, making crux moves between
the 3rd and 4th bolts, before heading up
and left past 4 more bolts to a cold shut and
quicklink anchor. Moving into the jugs of
Monstrosity is easy at a few points, but avoid
them for the full value.
8 - Derek Peavey, T Wilhelmi, Rob
Kennedy
36. Cannon Ball** (12c)
From the top of the mineshaft, make crimpy
reaches to connect with Rapid Fire for the
final two bolts.
5 - D Peavey ‘06
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PALACE
Rebolted by D Peavey, T Wilhelmi, S Shannon ‘04
33. Armor Plated* (11c)
(a.k.a. One Of These Days Alice)
Do a short boulder problem to 1st bolt, or
traverse in from left before cruising up the
slab and figuring out the long undercling crux
at the 6th bolt.
Rebolted by T Wilhelmi
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THE LOWERCHAMBER
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E. The Chamber
PALACE
This extensive wall stretches upward from
the Mineshaft Wall and offers a number of
long routes. The wall is roughly divided into
two parts – the Lower Chamber and Upper
Chamber, which are separated by a chossy
section of rock with no routes. The rock
quality can vary significantly, but in general,
the lines are sustained and can be devious.
The trail for the Chamber also serves to
access the Scepter and Red Wall.
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The Lower Chamber
37. Churchill Rejects** (9+)
Climb the obvious flake system just left
of the chimney splitting the Chamber and
Mineshaft Walls.
8 -S Shannon
38. Rusty Shackleford (11b)
Right above the trail, this route goes up
the overhanging face of the same color be
mindful of the block up higher.
39. Jester** (10b)
Climb the blocky face where the trail jogs to
the left. Fun and more solid than it appears.
10 - T Wilhelmi, J Bowes
40. In Between The Sheets (11b)
6 - D. Peavey, J. Doyle, K. Gibson ‘06
41. The Rack* (10d)
Begin right of the broken chimney feature,
climbing squeezy sidepulls and edges up the
orange streak, with a crux at the top.
8 - T Wilhelmi, J Bowes, C Wilhelmi
42. Love it or Hate It
(a.k.a Mavericks)* (11b)
Long route up broken features with crux up
15 - D. Peavey, T. Wilhelmi ‘05
high.
43. Cruiser (9)
This is a good short, but slightly devious
moderate. While there are lots of holds, it
takes a bit of groping to find the best ones.
5 - D Peavey, J Doyle, T. Wilhelmi ‘04
45. Sanctus* (10d)
Follow the faint black streak. Climbing
directly up the bolt line increases the
difficulty, but the path of least resistance
wanders slightly.
6 - T. Wilhelmi, K. Gibson, J. Bowes
46. Road To Redemption*** (11b)
Begin in the brown streak, climbing through
short cruxes between good rests.
12 - D. Peavey, T. Wilhelmi, K. Gibson ‘05
47. Last In Show (11b)
Start at the switchback in the trail, following
broken seams to the right of the right angling
groove, finishing on the green licheny bulge
finish.
13 - T Wilhelmi, D Peavey ‘06
48.The Brown Chossum Special (10d)
Begin on a green streaked arête about 15
yards up hill from the previous route. Climb
the loose and broken face right of the shallow
depression.
9 -B Beavers ‘05
PALACE
44. Drawn & Quartered (11a)
Climb the short route uphill from the 3rd
switchback.
5 - T. Wilhelmi, J Bowes, S Shannon
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THE UPPERCHAMBER
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Upper Chamber
49. Small Fry*** (12a/b)
Big, steep moves on big holds lead to a super
thin crux
7- D Peavey, T Wilhelmi, K Gibson ‘04
50. Green Lantern* (11d)
A continuous route across good, green rock
52. Big Mac*** (12c)
It’s in your face and all over the place right
from the get go.
13 - D Peavey, T Wilhelmi, J Doyle ‘04
53. Poudre Pie** (12a)
Start in front of the dead tree. Climb to the
green lichen covered blunt prow.
6- D Peavey, J Doyle, T. Wilhelmi ‘05
PALACE
51. Over the Ramparts (11c)
You quickly dispatch with the crux on this
one but it isn’t over until you clip the chains.
10 - S. Shannon, T. Wilhelmi
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PALACE
Jason Nadeau on Small Fry (12b), Upper CHamber, Palace, photo: BS
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Gamehendge
RED WALL
(Hidden behind Red Wall)
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Rap Station to
Back On Black Wall
F. Red Wall
PALACE
Located directly across from the Upper
Chamber Wall, the Red Wall offers several
longer slab routes and is a popular winter
destination on cold days due to it’s southern
aspect. To reach the crag, hike up the
Chamber Wall trail and veer left just before
reaching “Small Fry” and the Upper Chamber.
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54. Natty’s 3.2 Light Slab (9+)
Begin on the far left side of the detached wall
to the left of the Red Wall. This route ascends
a narrow pillar directly above the rap station
to reach the Back On Black Wall, which is in
the hidden corridor around the corner. For
the time being, finish at the anchor of H.R.
Puf N Stuff, although an extension will likely
be bolted soon.
5 -D Peavey, K Gibson ‘08
55. H.R. Puf N Stuff* (9)
Squeeze your way up the broken pillar that is
detached from the left side of the Red Wall.
56. Uneedaluebben** (11a)
Begin right of the bushy crack, climbing over
the bulge, streaked wall and belay at the
pigeon roost. P2: Dubbed “Don’t Peav the
Beav, this short pitch steps left onto face
above roof, then continues up prow (11b).
12 - D Peavey, T Wilhelmi, K Gibson ‘04
Don’t Peav The Beav D. Peavey, B. Beavers
‘04
57. Lenora*** (11c)
Two different types of classic; one is a
woman in green pants, the other is a route
at the palace. P1: Ascend the obvious crack
feature, then step left into the depression and
continue to chains (10c). P2: Climb slab to
top of Red Wall.
10 -D Peavey, T Wilhelmi, K. Gibson ‘04
58. Red Hot Space Suit*** (12b)
Follow two parallel vertical seams before
moving right into the crack feature, then
move left as it peters out. P2: Climb directly
up and over the bulge for a short pitch known
as Moon Boots (11c)
Moon Boots D. Peavey
Back On Black Wall
To reach this wall, approach as for the Red
Wall, then walk to H.R. Puf N Stuff and rappel into the hidden corridor on the back side.
There are three routes hiding in the corridor.
Exit the corridor by ascending the fixed rope
back to H.R. Puf N Stuff.
61. Back On Black** (12a)
This is the right route of the three. Be sure to
use a 60m rope, it is a long pitch.
62. Boys Are Back In Town** (12a/b)
Climb the tan face left of a long dark streak.
Long and sustained.
63. No Respect** (11d)
From a short crack feature, move onto the
thin face before eventually pulling a short
roof at the top, taking care not to bail right as
there is a large flake that could rip off.
PALACE
59. Red Planet** (12a)
Climb the face just left of the right facing
dihedral system, stepping left under the
roof and up the slab. Two cruxes. It is also
possible to climb Moon Boots as a second
pitch.
60. Blue Steel* (12a/b)
You will find this route that climbs over two
small roofs, then steps left to anchors on the
far right side of the Red Wall.
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THE SCEPTER
G. The Scepter
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The Scepter is a small, detached pillar
between the Red Wall and Palace Pages.
Although the climbing isn’t as quality as other
places in the canyon, the view and position
are outstanding. To reach the Scepter, hike
up the Chamber trail and branch off left
before ascending to the Upper Chamber.
64. The Scepter*** (10a)
Climb up this outstanding feature using all of
the holds you can. Be sure to mantel onto
the summit in order to get the maximum
value out of this route.
8 - T Wilhelmi, C Wilhelmi
65. Hantavirus (10d)
Begin as for the Scepter, but step right at the
2nd bolt then follow the northeast arête to
the top, supplementing the three bolts with a
piece or two of small gear.
5 - Steve McCorkel, Jim Green
‘96
PALACE
Unknown Climber on Lenora 11c on the Red Wall. photo: BS
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Palace Pages
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PALACE
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H. Palace Pages
The Palace Pages is a narrow fin of rock that
stretches from just below the Scepter down
to the banks of Cedar Creek, offering some
of the best lines in the area, including Dear
Slabby and Sporting Green.
66. Gossip Column (11a)
This highly visible route ascends the stairstepped column that rises out of Cedar Creek
about 40 yards upstream from the Mineshaft
Wall. The first bolt is higher than normal, and
be careful not to deck onto the upper ledge
before reaching the 5th bolt.
6 - T. Wilhelmi, C. Wilhelmi, R. Kennedy
67. Dear Slabby*** (11b)
There isn’t anything slab-like about this route
just around the corner and to the left of the
previous route. Make fun moves between
crack systems up the steep wall.
10 - T. Wilhelmi, S. Shannon, C. Wlhelmi
PALACE
68. Sporting Green*** (12a)
Climb up the center of the overhanging wall
following the obvious crack system. Good
jamming technique makes this route easier.
Be wary of the loose block in the crack at the
second bolt. Belay at the small stance below
the first bolt.
7 - T. Wilhelmi, S. Shannon
69. Obituary** (13-)
Powerful laybacking and a technical headwall
define this route on the far left side of the
wall. One of the hardest routes at the palace.
7 - D Peavey ‘04
70. Sunday Paper* (9)
On the opposite side of the gully, across from
Obituary, this goes up steep rock to a ledge
and then climbs the attractive arête/column.
Many fun variations up higher.
11 - Ian Barrett, S. Shannon
71. Ogre* (10a)
Not as scary as its namesake. Subtle
footwork will see you to the top on this beast.
5 - T. Wilhelmi, S. Shannon, J. Bowes
72. Battle Axe* (9+)
Take a swing at this one. Nearly every hold is
a jug of one sort or another!
73. DC Corner (6)
(a.k.a. Death Valley Queen)
This seldom traveled trad line is the obvious
corner directly above Battle Axe at the top of
the cliff.
- Rob Poutre, Lee Smith ‘91-93
74. Peeps* (9+)
Located next to DC Corner, this short route is
a bit tough to get to, but offers great views of
the Palace.
7 - D. Peavey, T. Wilhelmi, J. Doyle
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PALACE
Hugh Jack MacGregor climbing Sporting Green (12a) on the Palace Pages. photo: Ashley Helms
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I. The Citadel
The Citadel
Situated on the ridge next to Wall With A
View, a lone tower stands watch over the
Palace. There are several fun routes up the
Citadel’s southeast face as well as a handful
of long, difficult lines up the steep back
face. The views are spectacular from the
top and the Citadel is an excellent all-year
crag. Be careful of snakes in the summer. To
reach the Citadel, hike to the Palace Pages,
then branch left (southwest) onto the main
approach trail that leads up the rock ridge
and onto the slope below the tower. This is
also the access trail for Wall With A View and
Cirque Du Poudre.
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(a.k.a. Psilocybin Pinnacle)
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75. Rapunzel, Rapunzel** (10a)
(a.k.a. Dwarf Toss)
Lots of great big holds, although some of
them are hidden. If you can find the holds as
well as work out the jams, you’ll be cruising
to the top.
Rebolted by T. Wilhelmi, C. Wilhelmi
76. Let Down Your Hair** (10b)
(a.k.a. The Hobbit)
On the right side of the face that overlooks
the river. A bit of a crack finish.
Rebolted by T. Wilhelmi, C. Wilhelmi
PALACE
The following routes are located on the back
(north) side of the Citadel. They are listed
from left to right as you approach from the
main Citadel trail.
77. All In A Daze Work** (11c/d)
(a.k.a. Coronas & Lime)
Follow the blunt prow on the left side of the
Citadel’s north face. Thin at top.
Rebolted by D Peavey, T Wilhelmi ‘04
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78. Citadel** (11b)
Begin in front of the juniper tree. Long and
sustained.
13 - T. Wilhelmi, D. Peavey
79. Wake Of The Red Witch** (12c)
Crimp your way up the fractured section to
the thin and technical green streak.
14 - D Peavey, T Wilhelmi, K Gibson ‘04
80. Roll The Bonez* (12b/c)
Stick clip the high 1st bolt, then follow
layback/sidepull features up the brown face.
14 - D Peavey, T Wilhelmi, J Doyle ‘04
PALACE
Art Pintauro and Connie Hannig make a morning visit to Rapunzel, Rapunzel (10a) on the Citadel. © Mike Hannig
79
Wall with a View
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XX
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XX
84
83
82
81
PALACE
To
Tour De Poudre
80
K. Wall With a View
(a.k.a. Psilocybin Castle)
Vying with the Citadel for the Palace’s southern
ridgeline, this prominent wall hosts a few
quality routes. The rock quality on most of
Wall With A View is superb, but unfortunately
the main face is too ledgy and broken for
worthwhile routes. The established climbing,
found on the right shoulder and backside, is
certainly worth visiting. To reach Wall With A
View, hike up the Citadel trail, branching left
at the top. The short, but excellent route “Not
Enough (9+)” can be found on the backside
of the formation.
81. Speak Easy (10b)
Similar to Gossip Column, climb the narrow
NE face of the pillar. The crux is down low
and may be avoided by mantling onto the
shelf above the 2nd bolt. Clip the belayer into
the bolt at the base on the right side of the
ledge.
82. Party Mixer (10c)
Gear to 2 inches. Use the aforementioned
bolt for the belayer. Begin up the bolts and
then finish with the finger crack on top.
83. Route With a View** (10b/c)
Climb the center crack feature, stepping right
at the top to chains. This route was likely led
on gear around ‘93.
84. Spot of Bother (10d)
Do a short boulder problem start before
reaching the groove with big holds.
85. Not Enough** (9+)
Found on the backside of the Wall With
A View, this short, but fun route starts in a
finger crack, then moves slightly right onto
bulbous edges up excellent stone.
PALACE
81
XX
Cirque de Poudre
XX
XX
86
87
88
L. Cirque du Poudre
PALACE
Tucked away on the backside of Wall With A
View, is the Cirque Du Poudre. The cliff is
a little tricky to get to, but offers some very
nice, sustained lines that stay shaded for
much of the day. To reach Cirque Du Poudre,
hike to the backside of the Wall With A View.
Roughly 5 yards after passing Not Enough,
look to the right for a slightly hidden 4th class
downclimb. Carefully pick your way through
the short cliffband, then continue left toward
the obvious wall.
86. High Speed Digger* (11c)
The left most route. Climb up to a decent
ledged before launching off into the crux
above. Hidden holds and good route finding
ability really make a difference. Named after
a late night bicycle accident
9 - S. Shannon, T. Wilhelmi
82
87. Side Show** (11c)
The middle route. Interesting moves take you
up this shallow chimney like feature. Don’t
worry, the crux on this one is right at the end.
8 - T. Wilhelmi, K. Gibson, S.Shannon, J.
Bowes
88. Cirque du Poudre*** (12c)
The right hand route. A classic route on good
stone and good edges. Originally contrived
by staying on the face in the last panel of
rock, give your self 13a if you keep the arete/
crack out right off
12 - T. Wilhelmi, S.Shannon, J. Bowes
M. Vatoville
N. D-Man
89. Ghost of Cedar Creek** (11a)
Climb the thin tan streak on positive edges.
5 - D Peavey, K Gibson, T Wilhelmi ‘03
93. D-Man** (11c)
Clip the belayer into a bolt and grab some
huge holds, make some big moves, then pull
the crux at the last bolt.
4 - T. Wilhelmi, R Kennedy
To reach Vatoville, hike past the Palace Pages
and continue following the Cedar Creek
streambed. The main cliff is found 40 yards
past Battle Axe on the left at stream level.
Escalera is found on a terrace above Ghost
of Cedar Creek and may be approached by
walking to the Bat Cave and traversing left or
by veering right off the Citadel approach trail
shortly after leaving the creek bed.
90. Melkor* (10d/11a)
Tiptoe your way up the delicate black water
groove. The center route.
This remote cliff hides in the back of the
Palace, but offers a couple of routes. To
reach D-Man, follow a faint trail leading west
from Cirque Du Poudre to the ridge. After
traversing the ridge for 50 yards, veer right
on another faint trail leading to the top of the
buttress.
94. A-Lady* (11a)
To the right of D-Man.
91. Arda** (10b)
Make thin and technical moves up the
polished black face with tan splotches to a
broken crack and easier climbing above. The
right route.
92. Escalera (8)
Spanish for “ladder”. This fun route has
something for everyone, from underclings
to handjams. Move up and right into the
dihedral/chimney and use everything you
can find.
8 - S. Shannon, Steve Rodriguez
PALACE
83
Stove Prairie Road Areas
TO PALACE
FORT COLLINS
CO
s
ck
irie Cra
ve Pra
A. Sto
POUD
RE
C
CO 14
TO NARROWS
CAMERON PASS
YO
N
HIG
H
WAY
VE
O
ST
ON HIGHWAY
POUD R E CANY
AN
14
PRAI
R I E ROAD
Difficulty Range: 5.6 - 5.12
Approach Time: 2-5 Minutes
Season: Apr-Oct
Overview
STOVE PRAIRIE
The Stove Prairie Road area is a group
of crags that, although they are close in
proximity, offer very unique and often
adventurous routes. The rock is generally
lower quality than areas like the Palace or
Greyrock, but there are a number of unique
and enticing features to climb. In addition, several of the walls have very short
approaches, making them fun excursions for
an afternoon jaunt of after work session.
Two small crags are featured in this guide,
the Stove Prairie Cracks area and the PMA
Crag, although a number of other rock
outcrops are nearby. The Stove Prairie
Cracks area offers a variety of pillars and
fins, but the routes featured are some of the
better lines, although none of the rock in this
area should be trusted. Be sure to wear a
helmet and don’t trust the antiquated fixed
gear. Good swimming can be found in the
84
B. PMA Crag
N
E
W
S
TO MASONVILLE
RIST CANYON
summer downstream of the cracks, just be
careful of the current, especially during high
water. The PMA Crag has a few short sport
routes that are crumbly at the moment, but
may clean up to make a fun training spot.
Directions
To reach the Stove Prairie Cracks, drive
16.2 miles from Ted’s place and park in a
pullout on the right. The cracks are visible
across the river (which is usually wadeable
below 1.0 ft) and all have walk off descents.
Be careful of poison ivy.
To reach the PMA Crag, drive another .1
miles, turn left onto the Stove Prairie Road
(CR27), then drive 1.2 miles and pull onto
a small forest service road on the left. The
PMA Crag is directly across the road to
the west.
Stove Prairie Cracks
4
3
1
2
A. Stove Prairie Cracks
1. Splitter Finger Crack (7)
Begin in the thin finger crack, climb to the
ledge then make fun face moves to an easy
finish. Bring extra thin gear and be wary,
the lower portion of the route is a 6” plate
that is completely detached from the wall
with a packrat living behind it. Walk off to
the right (north).
- Unknown
4. Pegmatite Crack* (7)
This fun finger to hand crack meanders up
the pegmatite face about 75 yards uphill
from the previous climbs. If it weren’t for
the hollow block in the middle and loose
block at the top, it would be a very fun
moderate.
- Unknown
85
STOVE PRAIRIE
2. Crack Dihedral* (6)
This fun corner, reminiscent of Devil’s Tower
starts as a finger crack, eventually opening
to perfect hands. If the rock quality wasn’t
mediocre, it would be an excellent line. Be
careful of the loose block near the single
bolt (manky) anchor. Bring extra hand sized
pieces. Walk off as for the Finger Crack.
- Unknown
3. Hollow Flake Face (7)
Climb the short finger crack, then solo on
initially hollow flakes past three useless
bolts. Clipping the bolts will keep you on
route, but that’s about it. Finishing on the
short hand crack is fun. Walk off to the left.
- Unknown
PMA Crag
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XX
5
6
7
8
B. PMA Crag
5. Chutes & Ladders (10a)
Climb jugs up the left bulge.
5 - B Spiering ‘09
STOVE PRAIRIE
6. Free, But Not Cheap (11a)
Begin just right of Chutes & Ladders. Head up
the steep jugs, moving left to share the 3rd
bolt before veering right to finish. A linkup
called Chute Cheap (10b) can be done by
starting on Chutes & Ladders and finishing
on Free, But Not Cheap.
86
7. Stupid Happy With Everything (?)
Make hard crimp moves up the middle of the
face. Stick clip the 2nd bolt and be wary of
friable rock.
? - project
8. Look Who They Let In The Back
Door (11c)
Climb the right arête, taking care to climb
softly over the loose ledge at the top.
The Narrows
LAST TURN CRAG
Type(s): Sport, Trad
Difficulty Range: 5.7-5.12
Approach Time: 1-30 minutes
Season: Apr-Oct
Max Wading Level: 1.0 feet
Overview
The majority of routes in the narrows were
developed from the early ‘90’s to the present.
However, a random smattering of old pitons
and hardware can be found throughout the
area, marking the early ascents of many of
the popular formations. Many of the routes
were done in ground up style, but Crossing
Over (FA early ‘90’s) in the Middle Narrows
was the first rap bolted route in the canyon
and signaled a shift toward a new ethic of
route establishment. The most active first ascentionists in tthe narrows have been Steve
Allen, Rodney Ley, Craig Luebben, Steve McCorkel, Greg Martin, Mike Duncan, Gregg
Purnell, Paul Heyliger, and Greg Hand.
While the narrows offers a large amount of
climbing, the area doesn’t accommodate
large groups of people. Parking is limited,
87
NARROWS
The narrows of the Poudre Canyon are an
impressive assortment of steep buttresses
that rise sharply out of the turbulent river below. Broken into three general sections, the
Lower, Middle and Upper narrows, this area
offers many excellent trad and sport lines. In
general, the routes tend to be a bit sportier
and often require mixed protection, but are
certainly worth the effort. The Lower Narrows is found shortly after passing the Stove
Prairie Road and is comprised of a variety of
crags, including the Hippo’s Halatosis, Electric Ocean, Rose Wall and others which are
situated around the bridge just upstream
from the Stove Praire Landing Campground.
The Middle Narrows is just upstream and has
several crags including RA’s Buttress, The
Pharaoh, Greedy Gulch, Yankee Doodle Slab
and others. However, the most impressive
section of rock is the Upper Narrows, which
encompasses the Trough, Eden Area, Snake
Eyes Wall and Last Turn Crag.
Narrows Areas Overview
La
st
Tu
rn
Cr
ag
Sn
a
Ev ke
Ey
es
Ed
Ca es
Th
W
e
v
e
e
n
al
Tr
W
l
ou
al
l
gh
TO RUSTIC
CAMERON PASS
N
E
W
S
TO PALACE
FORT COLLINS
M
14
CO
NO iddl
TC
e
OV Nar
ER
ED rows
IN
TH Area
IS G
UID
E
n
Ele
especially in the Middle and Upper Narrows.
Several routes have been closed due to the
close proximity of the road and climbers
must be extremely careful not to knock rocks
onto the road below. In addition, the narrows
is not a dog friendly place, so please leave
them at home for the day. Many of the routes
have mixed protection and require traditional
pieces of gear to supplement bolts. Despite
being next to the road, climbing in the narrows is often more adventurous and serious
than most other crags in the canyon.
Directions stream on a boulder. Parking for the Rose
Wall is found on the right immediately after
crossing the bridge. The small pullout (2 car
max) for climbing at the Eden Area in the Upper Narrows is found 19.5 miles from Ted’s
Place. Be sure to pull completely off the road
and don’t try to squeeze into spots that aren’t
legitimate parking spaces. Additional parking for the Upper Narrows can be found next
to the Trough, which is .1 mile downstream
from Eden (at mile marker 103). Parking can
be found for the Last Turn Crag .3 miles past
Eden on the right.
NARROWS
To reach the Hippo’s Halatosis and Electric
Ocean in the Lower Narrows, park in the large
pullout on the right 18.1 miles from Ted’s
Place, just before the bridge. The start of the
cairned trail leading to the Electric Ocean will
be found across the road and slightly up-
88
a
ce
cO
i
ctr
NARROWS
Cam Cross attempting Promethius Rising (unrated), photo: BS
89
Electric Ocean Overview
Waves 5 - 8
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21
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XX
9
3
Fixed Rope
Fourth Wave
Cairn
XX
1
ELECTRIC OCEAN
90
Electric Ocean Area
XXXX
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XX
23
6
XX
9
XX
21
GARDEN WALL
12
Overview
Approach
Originally broken into sections called
“waves”, the Electric Ocean begins with two
pointed rock outcrops (down and left out of
view of photo), with the 2nd wave being the
Hippo’s Halatosis and waves 4 - 8 comprising the main crag. The Garden Wall, which
can be found to the right of Wave 8, offers a
number of moderate cracks, although it’s a
bit difficult to reach.
4th Wave
The Electric Ocean is a forgotten crag in
the Poudre Canyon. However, with a good
concentration of sport lines as well as a few
trad routes, the area will surely gain popularity. The crag is also nice because it doesn’t
require a river crossing and stays shaded all
morning, making it an ideal early summer
crag.
To reach the Electric Ocean, park in the first
obvious pullout 1.7 miles past the Stove
Prairie Road, just before the bridge. A large
cairn on top of a boulder on the east side of
the road marks the beginning of the trail.
Scramble up to the cairn and boulder hop
southeast, following cairns and a faint trail
leading through the woods and up a scree
field. The scree field will eventually turn into
a narrowing gully below and slightly left of
the main buttress. A bolted climb (Frogs)
is found on the right wall of the gully as it
pinches down and gets steep. The crag is
not visible from the parking area, or for much
of the approach. Unless otherwise noted, all
routes have bolted anchors.
91
ELECTRIC OCEAN
1. Frogs* (9)
As the approach gully narrows, you will reach
a nice moderate climb on the right wall. Follow a left angling seam for 2 bolts, then move
up into a shallow groove and over bulge to
anchors.
5 - Greg Martin ‘95
Electric Ocean LEFTSIDE
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XX
XX
XX
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XX
12
XX
XX
2
XX
3
10
8
6
7
To reach the main crag of the Electric Ocean,
follow a left angling ledge system just before
Frogs, to avoid 4th class scramble moves
as the gully narrows. At about anchor level
of the gully climb, you will see a cairn and
ledge system that leads to the right around
a corner. Scramble along the ledge and you
will find yourself directly below a beautiful
blunt prow and striking crack system. This
marks the beginning of the main crag. Be
extremely careful when approaching through
the gully, as it is very loose and confined.
Rockfall is a serious hazard.
5th Wave
ELECTRIC OCEAN
2. Mother Hibiscus Discordia (5.11 A1)
Begin in an obvious chimney. Climb up and
into a black streaked crack just left of the
blunt prow.
- G Martin ‘96
92
11
9
3. Prometheus Rising**** (Unrated)
This route is one of the most striking &
aesthetic lines in the Poudre Canyon and
is well worth a trip up to the EO. Start in
the short offwidth crack, pull a small roof,
boulder problem crux and keep it together
up the long headwall. Placing gear can be
a bit tricky, especially through the crux, so
be careful. Bring extra thin gear and a #5
Camalot for the offwidth.
4. Project (?)
Futuristic hanging dihedral with rap anchors
at top. Likely an unbolted project.
- project
5. Mr. Squigglie (10+)
Begin on the offwidth of Prometheus Rising,
then continue to traverse right as the crack
jogs right. An anchor was never added to
the finish, making getting down a bit tricky,
although it is possible to bushwhack up the
gully on the right and rappel from the anchors
of Prometheus Rising.
- Rich Purnell ‘97
6th Wave
7th Wave
6. Illusions** (11c)
Begin on the right side of the large pegmatite
pillar. Climb up slab, then make fun, big
moves over bulbous features to anchor.
5 - G Martin ‘95
To reach the next routes, scramble across a
ledge and up a steep corner. A fixed rope is
often present for the corner moves, otherwise
make easy 5th class scramble moves to gain
upper ledge system. The climbing isn’t too
hard, but you wouldn’t want to fall.
7. Temple Of The Dog (Project)
Begin at the bottom left of the X, then follow
insipient layback features past 6 bolts.
6 - Bolted by Mike Duncan
8. Tangerine (Project)
This wavy face climb starts just left of a
lichen-covered chimney. The route gets
progressively thinner as you get higher,
although easier climbing seems to try to pull
you right of the bolt line.
8 - Bolted by G Martin
9. The Iluminatia** (10b)
Visible from the parking lot, this low angle
slab has a fun and slightly spicy climb on it.
Make bouldery moves just right of a large
detached block to get started, then weave
your way up the slab to a crux at the final
bolt. A hand or finger sized piece is useful to
protect a long runout in the middle.
7 - G Martin ‘95
10. One Night Stand** (11b)
Ascend a short sloping ramp, then reach from
underclings onto the right side of a multicolor
face. Staying just left of the hanging arête, 4
bolts bring you to the finish of this short, but
excellent route.
6 - M Duncan’s Friend ‘95
11. Firewoman (Project)
Make hard, bouldery moves past 4 bolts and
onto a short slab before reaching painted rap
bolts.
4 - Bolted by M Duncan
12. Inside The Outside Whole (10+)
A short wide crack is found just right of
previous route. Start in chimney and wiggle
over roof into the handcrack above. Big bros
are useful.
- TR M Duncan
93
ELECTRIC OCEAN
13. Rage Against The Machine (9)
Flaky Death Chimney. Climb flaky, scabby
choss without killing your belayer and
you will be one of the few proud ascents.
Standard rack + PhD in choss climbing.
- G Martin ‘96
XX
Electric Ocean RIGHTSIDE
XX
XX
20
18
19
XX
XX
XX
17
16
XX
XX
XX
11
9
15
13
12
14
10
14. Anahata (12a)
Step off block to first bolt, then climb over
bulbous, somewhat mediocre looking
climbing to chains. Bouldery.
7 - G Martin ‘95
ELECTRIC OCEAN
15. Cosmic Trigger (9-)
Climb the obvious arching crack system that
splits the face. Wiggling into and out of the
pod is likely the crux and most entertaining
part for any nearby sport climbers. Move left
at top to clip last bolt and anchors of previous
route. One bolt, standard rack + big gear.
- G Martin ‘95
94
16. Vishokkuxxudpokkuxxda
(a.k.a. Hocus Pocus)*** (12a)
This excellent route follows superb rock up
a shallow corner system. A bouldery crux
leads to cool moves on big holds. Moving left
at the end is the easiest, but going straight up
will give you full value and added difficulty.
7 - M Duncan ‘95
17. Jibbin’ (9)
Start right of arête in black streak.
Questionable rock quality. Just left of tree.
5 - G Martin ‘95
18. Spoon Woman (11a)
A continuation of Jibbin’ that climbs up and
out the sharply pointed roof at the top of the
crag. Gear plus one bolt (high on hanging
arête. May have bolted anchors, but no
chains.
1 - G Martin ‘96
8th Wave
19. Cyberpunk (Project)
Climb 3 bolts of slab, then 2 over large roof.
Bolting seems incomplete on prow. Project.
11 - Bolted by G Martin ‘95
20. Atlas Shrugged (Project)
Climb to the top of the sharkstooth to clip
the first bolt. Head up the slab and into the
obvious crack. Ascend the corner, reaching
left to clip a bolt, then commit to moving onto
the pegmatite face and up the bulging face.
7 - Bolted by G Martin ‘95
21. Ajna (Sanctuary) (9+ or 10b)
These short, but excellent trad lines begin off
the ledge above the previous routes. Climb
either of the right leaning cracks up the steep
headwall.
- G Martin, Rich Purnell ‘97
ELECTRIC OCEAN
Scott DeCapio working out the beta on the crux of Vishokkuxxudpokkuxxda (a.k.a. Hocus Pocus) (12a)
95
The Trough
XX
28
XX
XX
27
26
25
24
23
22
NARROWS
96
The Trough
(a.k.a. Crag 103)
The Trough is a hidden wall in the Upper Narrows that looks terrible and broken, but the
rock is surprisingly solid and the crag offers a
few fun routes with a 5 second approach. To
reach the Trough, drive 19.3 miles and park
in the pullout on the north side of the road
(across from mile marker 103). The pullout is
on a blind corner, so be careful when pulling
into and out of the spot, especially on busy
days.
22. Hyssop* (11b)
This route is the lowest route on the wall,
beginning about 15 feet left of the road. Be
careful to belay and keep your gear away
from the road. From near the right arete
of the Trough, climb up the pegmatite rock,
trending left to avoid the rotten rock on the
south face.
6 - Greg Hand, Cameron Heyliger
23. Wild Rose* (11c)
This short route is a direct line to the top of
Hyssop that begins about 20 feet uphill and
climbs directly to the anchors.
6 - G Hand, C Heyliger
25. Dog Will Hunt (11d)
Climb up the pegmatite face up and over the
bulge, then move left to join My Name Is Mud
for the last bolt and anchors.
1 - C Luebben
26. My Name is Mud (10d)
Start on the large refrigerator block, then follow wavy horizontals on the left side of the
pegmatite band before moving left to a bolt
on the arête and anchors of Black Crocus.
4 - C Luebben et al.
27. Life in the Trough* (10a)
Just uphill from My Name is Mud, you will
find this shallow arête. Horizontals down low
lead to bigger holds on the broken arête feature.
28. High as I Wanna Be* (12a)
Just right of the obvious crack feature you
will find this good face climb. Crimp edges
down low lead to a slightly overhung face
that is higher quality than one might expect.
24. Black Crocus* (11c)
Head up the black streak, moving left at the
top to the well camouflaged chain anchors.
5 - G Hand
NARROWS
97
Eden Area Overview
XX
29
NOD
30
31
32
XX
EDEN
XX
39
38
EVE’S CAVE
XX
18
XX
XX
36
37
15
17
14
Eden Area
The Eden Area lies 2.8 miles past the Stove
Prairie Road turnoff (19.5 miles from Ted’s
Place). Park in a pullout below a large, clean
face with a prominent right-facing dihedral
(East of Eden). Eve’s Cave lies 30 yards
upstream from this pullout. Nod is the upper
right hand portion of the Eden Wall.
Nod
To reach the Nod area routes, scramble up
the steep gully just east of the Eden parking
pullout, heading toward the sharp arête
(Moment Of Clarity) high on the upper right
hand portion of the wall. Belay at the base
of the arête, taking care not to knock rocks
down the gully.
NARROWS
98
29. TM Crack** (10+)
Climb the crack on the hidden east face of
Nod. Short but splitter.
- Tim Mannschreck ‘97
30. Moment of Clarity** (11b/c)
From a belay directly below the sharp arête,
carefully traverse left around the corner to
clip a bolt. Continue up the arête, following
bolts and placing an occasional piece of gear
to reduce runouts. Bring small to medium
cams.
A variation called Pulp Friction (11b) may
be done by moving from La Royale into MOC
at the first bulge.
- S McCorkel, T Mannschreck ’97
Pulp Friction S McCorkel, Roe Green ‘97
31. With Cheese** (10d/11a)
Do the first part of La Royale, but head over
the bulge and climb straight up the middle
crack to the top. Protection can be a bit
tricky.
- S McCorkel, R Green ‘97
Mitch Musci on the Narrows classic East of Eden (9+)
99
NARROWS
32. La Royale* (10b)
This left-angling crack feature is visible
from the parking pullout and is an exciting
endeavor with excellent position on the wall.
From the MOC belay, carefully traverse left
(you can clip the 1st bolt of MOC) and set
up a belay below the short dihedral/bulge
feature. Pull the bulge and follow the left
leaning crack to the top.
- S McCorkel, R Green ‘97
Eden Wall
XX
XX
36
35
34
37
33
33. Billy’s Face (10 R)
Follow insipient and sparsely protected
seams up the short face behind the tree just
right of East of Eden.
- Unknown
34. East of Eden*** (9+)
One of the most popular excursions in the
canyon. Classic jamming in the prominent
corner leads to a rappel station. Rappel (two
ropes) or climb up and right to the top of the
rock and walk down the gulley to the right.
- Unknown
36. West of Eden** (10b R)
Climb the obvious crack on the face just left
of East of Eden. The crack gets thinner, and
the protection trickier near the top of the
pitch.
- Mark Wilford mid ‘70’s
37. Garden of Eden** (11a)
Begin just left of the obvious black streak.
Move past 10 bolts, then finish up a left
leaning crack system that ends at cold
shuts.
10 - Unknown
NARROWS
35. Fish & Whistle (10c R)
This scary route ascend the arête between
East Of Eden and West Of Eden. The line
was bolted at one point, but was chopped
and remains a free solo.
- Unknown
100
XX
XX
XX
Eve’s Cave
Closed
40
42
41
Eve’s Cave
Thirty yards upstream from East of Eden lies
an obvious cave with a few routes. Hangers
have been stripped of most of the climbs for
some reason, but the most popular route,
Original Sin is still properly protected. An
old aid line that has been closed due to
its proximity to the road can be found just
before the cave.
38. Temptation** (11c)
Squeak through the thin crux on this one.
It’s harder if you’re short. At this time, this
route doesn’t have any hangers. Five bolts
+ small cams.
5 - C Luebben
38
40. The Adulteress (11)
Most climbers will hate this overhanging,
rotten hand and finger crack - but it stays
dry during the frequent summer rainstorms.
Rocks have been moved at the base, making the start a spicy boulder problem, and
the hanger is missing from the bolt at mid
height. A random buttonhead bolt marks the
start of the route.
- C Luebben
41. Over the Edge** (11)
Exciting, devious and “balancy” moves just
left of the arête that forms the edge of the
cave. The first two hangers are missing. A
medium stopper may be used as supplemental pro for a runout up higher.
5 - C Luebben
42. Road Kill (Closed)
Old arête climb missing hangers...aptly
named and now closed due to close proximity to road.
101
NARROWS
39. Original Sin*** (10c)
Edge your way up this super-clean, thin
slab, pull the roof, and run it out to the
higher bolt. Several bolts were added
anonymously to this route, eliminating the
need for gear, although you might want one
piece for the top if you aren’t feeling bold.
8 - C Luebben
39
Snake Eye’s Wall
XX
XX
XX
X
XX
XX
51 53
XX
49
XX
46
45
50
48
47
43
44
Snake Eye’s Wall
This excellent wall offers the highest concentration of quality routes in the Eden area.
From East of Eden, walk 70 yards upstream
along the road, past Eve’s Cave to the next
obvious gully on the north side of the road.
Snake Trails is the first climb you will come
to, just off the road, with the rest of the climbs
extending up the gully. The popular boulder
problem Twilight can be found in a hidden
alcove directly across the river (to the south)
of the Snake Eye’s Wall.
43. Snake Trails (11b)
Climb the left arête of Snake Eyes wall, past
two bolts and out a short roof to cold shuts.
A hand sized piece could be helpful to protect
the runout to the anchors.
2 - C Luebben
NARROWS
102
44. Snake Eyes** (12b)
Start just left of the large pegmatite band that
splits the wall. Make cruxy moves at the 3rd
bolt and enjoy nice climbing to the top. Don’t
botch the third clip.
6 - C Luebben
45. Unknown (project)
A project seems possible (but isn’t bolted yet)
by climbing the thin seam/pegmatite band
directly to the 3rd bolt. It may be possible to
traverse left from Delicious Demon into this
line, but it has unlikely been done due to lack
of pro and bolts.
? project
46. Delicious Demon*** (11b)
From a horizontal jug, move up through
spectacular climbing before pulling a short,
capped roof to cold shut anchors. One of the
best lines in the area.
5 - C Luebben
103
NARROWS
A young Herman Feissner on Snake Eyes (12b) © Craig Luebben Collection
47. Fight Like a Brave** (11c)
Thise bold trad line follows up the left-facing
corners and flakes before eventually moving
out the right side of the main roof feature.
Although this line isn’t popular, it is a proud
lead.
- David Vartanian
51. The Flung** (11d)
Climb crumbly choss to first bolt, then head
up the steep, clean face on spectacular stone,
eventually reaching the fun blunt arête. You
can go either right or left to reach anchors. A
stickclip may be handy for the first bolt.
6 - G Hand
48. The Wang Chung** (11c)
Layback up bulbous arête features to a right
angling horizontal near the pegmatite pod.
Move right to anchors of (climb to right). A
#1 Camalot can be placed at the break to
supplement the runout. Be wary of the large,
potentially friable quartz blobs.
5 - G Hand, Tim O’Grady
52. The Stung** (10b)
This technical corner provides lots of nice
moves in its short length. Named when Greg
Hand was stung in the face by a wasp while
cleaning before the first ascent, kicking off
the “ung” theme.
6 - G Hand
49. The Bum Lung* (12b)
Follow downsloping edges and rails to blank
bulge. Figure out how to get to the shallow
horizontal crack and you’re home free. A fifth
bolt may be added.
4 - G Hand
50. The Rung** (10c)
Climb flaky jugs to large horn, then make fun
moves through horizontals to a sporty slab.
Fun and exciting for the grade. A 2 or 3 Camalot and some small cams may supplement
the runouts at the top.
6 -G Hand
53. The Dung (7)
A short and chossy endeavor up the far right
side of the wall. Avoid pelting your belayer
with crumbly rock by climbing in from the
right at the start. The easiest, but worst
route on the wall. Could be better with some
cleaning and traffic.
3 - G Hand
NARROWS
104
Last Turn Crag
XX
XX
XX
56
55
54
Last Turn Crag
Developed at the end of the 2009 climbing
season, this crag lies at the west end of
the Narrows. A good shaded crag that
necessitates a river crossing. Park in a
pullout .2 miles past East Of Eden. Be sure
to park completely off the road. The bottom
20 feet of this cliff is chossy so a helmet is
recomended for your belayer.
54. Pale Corner** (11c)
Climb two bolts of mediocre rock to long
moves between cool edge features and an
undercling encounter. Cut right at the big
bulge and find the anchors in the right facing corner.
6 - B. Scott
55. The Benchmark* (11b)
Climb the prominent black streak to the
right of the main roof feature. Sequential
climbing leads to beautiful edges up the
black face.
5 - Kyle Lucas et al.
56. Rock Wars** (12a)
Start in the rotten dihedral before moving left
to gain the prominent layback feature up the
face. Tachnical terrain leads to a tricky crux
reaching the large undercling feature.
6 - B. Scott
NARROWS
105
INDEX
106
POUDRE CANYON
ROUTES GUIDE
Routes listed by NAME
13th Step, The* (10a)
5.7 Practice Crack* (7)
Lion’s Den 65
Southeast Face 28
A
A Roof* (11d?)
Granite Sea 32
Abbey Ale (10a/b) Fist 42
Adulteress, The (11) Eve’s Cave 101
Ajna (Sanctuary) (9+ or 10b) Electric Ocean 95
A-Lady* (11a) D-Man 83
All In A Daze Work ** (11c/d) Citadel 78
Alvin* (6) Southeast Face 24
Anahata (12a) Electric Ocean 94
Anchor Thief* (11c) Sail 39
Ankles Away*** (10b / 6 R) Granite Sea 32
Any Which Way You Can* (12a) Breakers 30
Arda** (10b) Vatoville 83
Armed Response*** (12b) Breakers 28
Armor Plated * (11c) Mineshaft Wall 67
Atlas Shrugged (Project) Electric Ocean 95
Aunt Edna’s Costume Jewelry** (7) South Slabs 16
B
C
Cal Trop (9) Poudre Face
Cannon Ball** (12c) Mineshaft Wall
Central Chimney* (4) Southeast Face
Chamber, The Palace
Check Your Head*** (10b/c) Poudre Face Check Your Six** (11b) Poudre Face
Cheerleaders Gone Hippie* (9+) Poudre Face
Chimney Sweep Wall Triple Tier Area
Churchill Rejects** (9+) Chamber
Chute Cheap (10b) PMA Crag
Chutes & Ladders (10a) PMA Crag
Cirque Du Poudre*** (12c) Cirque Du Poudre
Cirque Du Poudre Palace
Citadel** (11b) Citadel
Citadel, The Palace
Clean-Up On Aisle 9* (9-) Crystal Wall
Climb On My Face*** (10a) South Slabs
Cornercopia* (7) South Slabs
Coronas & Lime
(see All In A Daze Work)
Citadel
Cosmic Trigger (9-) Electric Ocean
County Line*** (8) Crystal Wall
Cow Words* (9 or 10b / 7R) Northwest Slabs
Cows Are People Too** (9 R) Northwest Slabs
Cows In Space*** (10b / 8 R) Northwest Slabs
Crack A Goo Goo (8) Ripple
Crack Dihedral* (6) Stove Prairie Cracks
Crago Corner*** (12a/b) Breakers
Creepy* (10b) Poudre Face
Crest, The Greyrock
Cross Mojonation! (11a) B.B.T.
Crossbow (10b) Poudre Face
Cruiser (9) Chamber
Crystal Method* (11+ R) Crystal Wall
Crystal Wall
Cyberpunk (Project) Electric Ocean
D
Dancin’ In The Rain* (11) Dancing Ladies* (7) Dark Horse*** (Project) 63
67
27
68
62
62
62
43
68
86
86
82
82
78
78
53
19
18
78
94
57
22
22
22
33
85
30
63
33
65
63
69
53
49
95
Breakers 28
Southeast Face 27
Upper Echelon 47
107
INDEX
B.A.H. (9+) Poudre Face 63
B.B.T. Wall Palace 65
Back On Black Wall Palace 73
Back On Black** (12a) Back On Black Wall 73
Bad Boys Bolt** (11b/c) South Slabs 16
Balaam* (11c) Crystal Wall 53
Ballet Of The Bulge*** (11b) Crystal Wall 57
Bandito’s Bat Roost (8) Sail 39
Bandito’s Bat Roost (see The Sail)
Triple Tier Area 38
Barefoot In The Dark* (6 or 7) Southeast Face 27
Barfy’s Favorite** (7) Southeast Face 27
Battle Axe* (9+) Palace Pages 76
Beer For Breakfast* (9) South Slabs 18
Benchmark, The* (11b) Last Turn Crag 105
Bert* (10b) Chimney Sweep Wall 43
Better Than
Watching Television*** (11c) Crystal Wall 53
Between Nothingness
& Eternity*** (12a) South Slabs 16
Big As A House (10b) Lion’s Den 64
Big Mac*** (12c) Chamber 70
Billy’s Face (10 R) Eden 100
Birdland*** (9) South Slabs 16
Black Crocus* (11c) Trough 96
Black Dog* (8) Southeast Face 27
Black Market* (11b / 7X) South Slabs 16
Black Wall, The* (10 R) Southeast Face 27
Blackstreak** (11d R) South Slabs 19
Blob, The* (10c R/X) South Slabs 18
Blow Me Down** (11c/d / 9 R) Granite Sea 32
Blue Collar Baby (11b) Middle Class Wall 44
Blue Steel* (12a/b) Red Wall 73
Bodies Like Sheep (10c) Lion’s Den 64
Booty Prize* (11d) Undertall Wall 40
Bosch Hog (11b) Crystal Wall 55
Boys Are Back In Town** (12a/b) Back On Black Wall 73
Breakers Greyrock 28
Breakin’ Trail (10c) B.B.T. 65
Britney’s Spear** (11c) Crystal Wall 57
Brown Chossum Special, The (10d) Chamber 69
Brown Pellets And Yellow Goo* (8) South Slabs 20
Buffalo Soldier** (9 R) Rasta Rock 34
Bum Lung, The* (12b) Snake Eyes Wall 104
Dark Pony*** (13b) Upper Echelon 47
DC Corner (6) Palace Pages 76
Dear Slabby*** (11b) Palace Pages 76
Death & Disfiguration* (11c) Mineshaft Wall 67
Death Valley Queen
(see DC Corner)
Palace Pages 76
Delicious Demon*** (11b) Snake Eyes Wall 102
Destination Planet Claire (8) Breakers 28
Dirty Love* (10d) South Slabs 18
D-Man** (11c) D-Man 83
D-Man Palace 83
Doctor Cow*** (10c or 11c) Northwest Slabs 22
Dog Face* (10a R) Southeast Face 26
Dog Will Hunt (11d) Trough 97
Don’t Peav The Beav (11b) Red Wall 73
Down On The Pharm (7) Crystal Wall 51
Drawbridge (9+)
Poudre Face 67
Drawn & Quartered (11a) Chamber 69
Dream Of Poudre*** (12d) Upper Echelon 47
Dung, The (7) Snake Eyes Wall 104
Dwarf Toss (see Rapunzel, Rapunzel) Citadel 78
E
Eagle Dance
(see Death & Disfiguration)
Mineshaft Wall 67
East Of Eden*** (9+) Eden 100
Easy Sailing** (6) Granite Sea 32
Eden Area Upper Narrows 98
Eden Upper Narrows 100
Electric Ocean
90
Elijah** (12b/c) Chimney Sweep Wall 43
ELP* (8) South Slabs 19
Escalera (8) Vatoville 83
Eve’s Cave Upper Narrows 101
Eye In The Sky*** (13a/b) Crystal Wall 57
F
INDEX
Fahrenheit 5.11** (12b) Crystal Wall 51
Fantastic Planet** (11c or 10a) Crystal Wall 51
Fatman In The Bathtub* (11c) South Slabs 19
Fight Like A Brave** (11c) Snake Eyes Wall 104
Finish The Climb &
Call It Something* (8 R?) Granite Sea 33
Firewoman (Project) Electric Ocean 93
Fish & Whistle (10c R) Eden 100
Fist, The Triple Tier Area 42
Fisticuffs (10c) Breakers 30
Flabby Little Girly Man* (11a R) N
orthwest Slabs 20
Flail* (11a) Poudre Face 63
Flirty Dove*** (9) South Slabs 18
Flue, The** (10c) Chimney Sweep Wall 43
Flung, The** (11d) Snake Eyes Wall 104
Folsom Flute Easy Var.*** (12d) Upper Echelon 47
Folsom Flute*** (13b/c) Upper Echelon 47
Forest Fire (11b) B.B.T. 65
Forward Never Straight** (9- R) Southeast Face 26
Free, But Not Cheap (11a) PMA Crag 86
108
Friday The 14th (10a) Frightline Direct** (11) Frightline Roof** (11a) Frightline** (10a) Frogs* (9) Frozen Echo** (12c) Fun Flake** (6) Ripple
Breakers
Breakers
Breakers
Electric Ocean
Undertall Wall
South Slabs 33
30
30
30
91
40
16
G
Gamehendge Palace 72
Gangsta Man In A Cadillac* (11a) B.B.T. 65
Garden Of Eden** (11a) Eden 100
Gardener Did It, The* (6) Granite Sea 32
Gates Of Crystal* (7+) Crystal Wall 53
General Lee, The** (12b) Crystal Wall 55
Ghost Of Cedar Creek** (11a) Vatoville 83
Git Wood* (11c) Chimney Sweep Wall 43
Go Spuds Go*** (12a) South Slabs 16
Goin’ Streakin’** (11d/12a) Middle Class Wall 44
Good Girls Don’t (7 R) South Slabs 16
Good Ol’ Boys* (12b/c) Crystal Wall 55
Good, The Bad, &
The Way Ugly, The (11) Breakers 30
Gossip Column (11a) Palace Pages 76
Granite Sea Greyrock 2
Granite Sea, The** (10a R) Granite Sea 33
Greatest Route
At Greyrock, The*** (8) Southeast Face 26
Green Lantern* (11d) Chamber 70
Grey Rat Rocksicle** (8 R) South Slabs 19
Greyrock
16
H
H.R. Puf N Stuff* (9) Red Wall
Half-Mast** (12) Sail
Hang 12** ( 10) Granite Sea
Hantavirus (10d) Scepter
High As I Wanna Be* (12a) Trough
High Speed Digger* (11c) Cirque Du Poudre
Hobbit, The (see Let Down Your Hair) Citadel Hocus Pocus
(see Vishokkuxxudpokkuxxda) Electric Ocean
Hollow Flake (7) Stove Prairie Cracks
Hyssop* (11b) Trough
I
I Yam What I Yam*** (8+ R) Granite Sea
Illuminatia, The** (10b) Electric Ocean
Illusions** (11c) Electric Ocean
In Between The Sheets (11b) Chamber
Inner Mounting
Flame, The** (11c) Southeast Face
Inside The Outside Whole (10+) Electric Ocean
Inyerbuttkwa** (10c) Crystal Wall
It Is What It Is* (11a) Mineshaft Wall
72
39
32
74
97
82
78
94
85
96
32
93
93
69
27
93
57
67
J
Jaminy Crackit*** (11d) Sentinel 34
Jammin’ With Bob** (11c) South Slabs 20
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland)** (10a) South Slabs 18
Jester** (10b) Chamber 69
Jetstream Deluxe** (9) Southeast Face 26
Jibbin’ (9) Electric Ocean 94
Judy’s Jaunt Variation*** (7 R) Southeast Face 27
Just Another Pretty Face (11b R) Southeast Face 24
K
Keelhaul** (12+) L
La Royale* (10b) Last In Show (11b) Last Turn Crag Laughing Man, The Le Petit Francais** (6) Legos (11) Lenora*** (11c) Let Down Your Hair** (10b) Lichen It** (12) Life In The Trough* (10a) Lion’s Den Look Who They Let In
The Back Door (11c) Love It Or Hate It* (11b) Loyalist (9) Lunch Bucket Crack* (8-) M
Sail 39
Nod 100
Chamber 69
Upper Narrows 105
Triple Tier Area 40
Southeast Face 28
Fist 42
Red Wall 73
Citadel 78
B.B.T. 65
Trough 97
Palace 64
PMA Crag
Chamber Poudre Face
Crystal Wall
86
69
63
53
Nancy (8+) Crystal Wall
Narrows, The
Natty’s 3.2 Light Slab (9+) Red Wall No Respect** (11d) Back On Black Wall
Nod Upper Narrows
North Side Move (4) Laughing Man
Northwest Slabs Greyrock
Not Enough** (9+) Wall With A View
O
O.D.K**** (12a) Obituary** (13-) Ogre* (10a) Old Aid Wall (see Upper Echelon) Old Man’s Route (see O.D.K.)
One Night Stand** (11b) Open Up Wide* (10) Orange Crimpsicle** (12d) Orange You Glad (7) Original Sin*** (10c) Over The Edge** (11) Over The Ramparts (11c) 55
87
72
73
98
40
20
81
Upper Echelon
Palace Pages
Palace Pages
Triple Tier Area
Upper Echelon
Electric Ocean
Crest
Crystal Wall
Poudre Face
Eve’s Cave
Eve’s Cave
Chamber
47
76
76
46
47
93
33
51
63
101
101
70
Paint It Sad* (8 / 6 R) Northwest Slabs
Palace Guard (10b) Poudre Face
Palace Pages Palace
Palace, The
Pale Corner** (11c) Last Turn Crag
Parsnip Pete’s Last Dance* (10)
Breakers
Party Mixer (10c) Wall With A View
Peeps* (9+) Palace Pages
Pegmatite Crack* (7) Stove Prairie Cracks
Pet Cemetary (11c) Crystal Wall
Pin Route, The
Southeast Face
Pinklebear, The*** (12c) Upper Echelon
Pinklepile (11b) Upper Echelon
Plate Tectonics (11a) Sail
PMA Crag Stove Prairie Rd
Poudre Face Palace
Poudre Pie** (12a) Chamber
Powerpoint (10d) Mineshaft Wall
Pretty Face** (8) Southeast Face
Prints Of Darkness** (8 R) Southeast Face
Prometheus Rising**** Electric Ocean
Psilocybin Canyon (see Palace)
Psilocybin Castle (see Wall With A View) Palace
Psilocybin Pinnacle (see Citadel) Palace
Pulp Friction* (11b) Nod
Pumpin’ Puff Muffins* (10) Crystal Wall
22
63
75
58
105
30
81
76
85
55
26
47
46
39
86
62
70
67
24
24
92
58
80
78
98
55
P
109
INDEX
Mass Appeal*** (12b) Middle Class Wall 44
Mavericks (see Love It Or Hate It)
Chamber 69
Medusa, The** (10b) Breakers 30
Melkor* (10d/11a) Vatoville 83
Middle Class Cracker** (10a/b) M
iddle Class Wall 44
Middle Class Wall Triple Tier Area 44
Miner Infraction
(see Strickly Business)
Mineshaft Wall 67
Mineshaft Wall Palace 66
Mish Mast (11d/12a) Sail 39
Misty Mountain Hop* (7 R) Southeast Face 27
Moment Of Clarity** (11b/c)
Nod 98
Monstrosity*** (10b) Mineshaft Wall 67
Mood For A Day (10a) Crystal Wall 51
Moon Boots (11c) Red Wall 73
Moose Knuckles*** (12b) Upper Echelon 46
Mother Hibiscus Discordia
(5.11 A1) Electric Ocean 92
Mr. Gone*** (10a R) Southeast Face 26
Mr. Moonpie** (10) South Slabs 20
Mr. Seam (see Woody Tool)
Southeast Face 24
Mr. Squigglie (10+) Electric Ocean 92
My Name Is Mud (10d) Trough 97
N
Q
Quarry Wall (see Upper Echelon) Triple Tier Area 46
R
Rabble Rouser* (10b) Lion’s Den 64
Rack, The* (10d) Chamber 69
Rage Against The Machine (9) Electric Ocean 93
Rapid Fire** (12d) Mineshaft Wall 67
Rapunzel, Rapunzel** (10a) Citadel 78
Rasta Rock Greyrock 34
Rastajam** (12a) Southeast Face 28
Red Hot Space Suit*** (12b) Red Wall 73
Red Planet** (12a) Red Wall 73
Red Wall Palace 72
Ribeye Flake* (8 / 6 R) Northwest Slabs 22
Rip Tide*** (8) Granite Sea 32
Ripple, The Greyrock 33
Rites Of Passage* (8) Southeast Face 26
River Rats (7) Poudre Face 63
Road Kill (Closed) Eve’s Cave 101
Road To Redemption*** (11b) Chamber 69
Rock Wars** (12a) Last Turn Crag 105
Rocks For Jocks (8 R) Poudre Face 62
Roll The Bonez* (12b/c) Citadel 78
Roofus Dickus* (11c) South Slabs 18
Route With A View** (10b/c) Wall With A View 81
Rung, The** (10c) Snake Eyes Wall 104
Rusty Shackleford (11b) Chamber 68
S
INDEX
S.P.N. * (9 R ) South Slabs 19
Sail, The Triple Tier Area 38
Sanctus* (10d) Chamber 69
Sari Who? (9 R) Crest 33
Scepter, The Palace 74
Sea Of Joy (see I Yam What I Yam) Granite Sea 32
Sea Of Lichen (8) Crystal Wall 55
Seam As It Ever Was (10a R) South Slabs 18
Sentinel, The Greyrock 34
Shades Of Grey Southeast Face 27
Shadow Dance* (7) South Slabs 19
She’s A Daisy* (9) Crystal Wall 57
Shit, Piss, Spit Up & Drool (12b) Lion’s Den 64
Shit-In-Your Eye Wall Triple Tier Area 43
Shoulda Coulda* (11a) Upper Echelon 47
Side Show** (11c) Cirque Du Poudre 82
Silver Girl** (10c) Crystal Wall 53
Simon** (8+) Southeast Face 26
Sky Crack*** (7) Northwest Slabs 22
Slab Happy*** (7) South Slabs 18
Slip (6 X) South Slabs 19
Small Fry*** (12a/b) Chamber 70
Snake Eyes Wall, Upper Narrows 102
Snake Eyes** (12b) Snake Eyes Wall 102
Snake Trails (11b) Snake Eyes Wall 102
110
Soot** (12a) Chimney Sweep Wall 43
South Slabs Greyrock 16
Southeast Face Greyrock 24
Speak Easy (10b) Wall With A View 81
Splitter Finger Crack (7) Stove Prairie Cracks 85
Spoon Woman (11a) Electric Ocean 95
Sporting Green*** (12a) Palace Pages 76
Spot Of Bother (10d) Wall With A View 81
Squeeze My Lemon (8d) Crest 33
Squid Skid** (9) Northwest Slabs 20
Stanley’s Steamer (11c) Lion’s Den 64
Steep & Cheap** (11d) B.B.T. 65
Stove Prairie Cracks Stove Prairie Rd 85
Stove Prairie Rd
84
Streaky Stylee*** (11d) Middle Class Wall 44
Strictly Business** (10c) Mineshaft Wall 67
Stung, The ** (10b) Snake Eyes Wall 104
Stupid Happy
With Everything (Project) PMA Crag 86
Sugar Mountain* (5 R) South Slabs 19
Sunday Buttress (See Lion’s Den) Palace 64
Sunday Paper* (9) Palace Pages 76
Sunday’s Child*** (12c/d) Lion’s Den 64
T
Tailspin**** (12b) Upper Echelon 47
Tamed Donkeys** (11d/12a) Upper Echelon 46
Tangerine (Project) Electric Ocean 93
Temple Of The Dog (Project) Electric Ocean 93
Temptation** (11c) Eve’s Cave 101
Testicle Traverse** (11a or 9) South Slabs 18
The Scepter*** (10a) Scepter 74
Theodore** (6) Southeast Face 24
Thursday Afternoon Hooky (10b R) Crystal Wall 51
TM Crack Nod 98
Tommyknocker Wall (see Mineshaft Wall) Palace 67
Tool Man** (11c) Crystal Wall 51
Toolin’ Woody* (10a) Southeast Face 24
Tour De Poudre**** (12b/c) Crystal Wall 53
Triple Tier Area
37
Trojan Romance*** (11c) South Slabs 18
Trough Upper Narrows 96
Turbo Pup** (10b / 8 R) Northwest Slabs 20
Turdland (see Jazzman)
South Slabs 18
Turquoise Tubers* (6 R) Granite Sea 32
Turtle Head (7) Poudre Face 63
Turtlebeak* (11b) Breakers 28
Twinkletoes*** (13a) Middle Class Wall 44
Two Minds Meet** (7) South Slabs 16
U-Z
Undertall Wall Undertall* (10+) Uneedaluebben** (11a) Unknown (?) Unknown (Project) POUDRE CANYON ROUTES
Triple Tier Area 40
Undertall Wall 40
Red Wall 73
Southeast Face 24
Snake Eyes Wall 102
Unnamed (?) Sail 39
Upper Echelon Triple Tier Area 46
Vatoville Palace 83
Velvet Brown** (10c) Sail 39
Velvet Tan (10c) Sail 39
Vishokkuxxudpokkuxxda*** (12a) Electric Ocean 94
Wake Of The Red Witch** (12c) Citadel 78
Wall With A View Palace 80
Wanderlust* (8) Southeast Face 24
Wang Chung, The** (11c) Snake Eyes Wall 104
Way, The** (12a) Breakers 30
West Of Eden** (10b R) Eden 100
What Is & What
Should Never Be (9 / 7 R) Southeast Face 27
Where’s The Beef?*** (12b/c) Poudre Face 62
Where’s The Drill?* (7 R / X) Southeast Face 28
Wiglet (7) Crest 33
Wigs On Fire** (10a) South Slabs 19
Wild Rose* (11c) Trough 96
Wildstreak* (10d R / 6 X) South Slabs 19
With Cheese** (10d/11a) Nod 100
Wolverine** (11) Sail 39
Wonga, Wonga, Wonga** (10) Breakers 28
Woody Tool, The* (10a) Southeast Face 24
Yellow Dihedral** (9) Northwest Slabs 20
Yosemite Sam* (8) Southeast Face 28
Route’s by GRADE
5.4 - 5.6
Central Chimney* (4) Southeast Face
North Side Move (4) Laughing Man
Sugar Mountain* (5 R) South Slabs
Mother Hibiscus
Discordia (5.11 A1) Electric Ocean Alvin* (6) Southeast Face
Crack Dihedral* (6) Stove Prairie Cracks
DC Corner Palace Pages
76
Easy Sailing** (6) Granite Sea
Fun Flake** (6) South Slabs
Gardener Did It, The* (6) Granite Sea
Le Petit Francais** (6) Southeast Face
Theodore** (6) Southeast Face
Barefoot In The Dark* (6 or 7) Southeast Face
Turquoise Tubers* (6 R) Granite Sea
Slip (6 X) South Slabs
5.7
27
40
19
92
24
85
32
16
32
28
24
27
32
19
5.8
Bandito’s Bat Roost (8) Sail
Black Dog* (8) Southeast Face
Brown Pellets And Yellow Goo* (8) South Slabs
County Line*** (8) Crystal Wall
Crack A Goo Goo (8) Ripple
Destination Planet Claire (8) Breakers
ELP* (8) South Slabs
Escalera (8) Vatoville
Greatest Route At
Greyrock, The*** (8) Southeast Face Pretty Face** (8) Southeast Face
Rip Tide*** (8) Granite Sea
Rites Of Passage* (8) Southeast Face
Sea Of Lichen (8) Crystal Wall
Wanderlust* (8) Southeast Face
Yosemite Sam* (8) Southeast Face
Lunch Bucket Crack* (8-) Crystal Wall
Paint It Sad* (8 / 6 R) Northwest Slabs
Ribeye Flake* (8 / 6 R) Northwest Slabs
Grey Rat Rocksicle** (8 R) South Slabs
Prints Of Darkness** (8 R) Southeast Face
Rocks For Jocks (8 R) Poudre Face
Finish The Climb &
Call It Something* (8 R?) Granite Sea
I Yam What I Yam*** (8+ R) Granite Sea Nancy (8+) Crystal Wall
Simon** (8+) Southeast Face
Squeeze My Lemon (8d) Crest 5.9
Clean-Up On Aisle 9* (9-) Cosmic Trigger (9-) Beer For Breakfast* (9) Birdland*** (9) Cal Trop (9) Cruiser (9) Flirty Dove*** (9) Frogs* (9) H.R. Puf N Stuff* (9) Jetstream Deluxe** (9) Jibbin’ (9) Crystal Wall
Electric Ocean South Slabs
South Slabs
Poudre Face
Chamber South Slabs
Electric Ocean
Red Wall
Southeast Face
Electric Ocean
63
85
63
19
22
18
85
63
16
33
16
27
27
28
53
39
27
20
57
33
28
19
83
26
24
32
26
55
24
28
53
22
22
19
24
62
33
32
55
26
33
53
94
18
16
63
69
18
91
72
26
94
111
INDEX
5.7 Practice Crack* (7) Southeast Face 28
Aunt Edna’s Costume Jewelry** (7) South Slabs 16
Barfy’s Favorite** (7) Southeast Face 27
Cornercopia* (7) South Slabs 18
Dancing Ladies* (7) Southeast Face 27
Down On The Pharm (7) Crystal Wall 51
Dung, The (7) Snake Eyes Wall 104
Hollow Flake (7) Stove Prairie Cracks 85
Orange You Glad (7)
Poudre Face
Pegmatite Crack* (7) Stove Prairie Cracks
River Rats (7) Poudre Face
Shadow Dance* (7) South Slabs
Sky Crack*** (7) Northwest Slabs
Slab Happy*** (7) South Slabs
Splitter Finger Crack (7) Stove Prairie Cracks
Turtle Head (7) Poudre Face
Two Minds Meet** (7) South Slabs
Wiglet (7) Crest Good Girls Don’t (7 R) South Slabs
Judy’s Jaunt Variation*** (7 R) Southeast Face
Misty Mountain Hop* (7 R) Southeast Face
Where’s The Drill?* (7 R / X) Southeast Face
Gates Of Crystal* (7+) Crystal Wall
Loyalist (9) Poudre Face
Rage Against The Machine (9) Electric Ocean
She’s A Daisy* (9) Crystal Wall
Squid Skid** (9) Northwest Slabs
Sunday Paper* (9) Palace Pages
Yellow Dihedral** (9) Northwest Slabs
What Is & What Should
Never Be (9 / 7 R) Southeast Face
Cow Words* (9 or 10b / 7R) Northwest Slabs
Buffalo Soldier** (9 R) Rasta Rock
Cows Are People Too** (9 R) Northwest Slabs
Sari Who? (9 R) Crest
Forward Never Straight** (9- R) Southeast Face
S.P.N. * (9 R ) South Slabs
B.A.H. (9+) Poudre Face
Battle Axe* (9+) Palace Pages
Cheerleaders Gone Hippie* (9+) Poudre Face
Churchill Rejects** (9+) Chamber
Drawbridge (9+) Poudre Face
East Of Eden*** (9+) Eden
Natty’s 3.2 Light Slab (9+) Red Wall
Not Enough** (9+) Wall With A View
Peeps* (9+) Palace Pages
Ajna (Sanctuary) (9+ or 10b) Electric Ocean
Road Kill (Closed) Eve’s Cave
5.1Oa - 5.1Od
63
93
57
20
76
20
27
22
34
22
33
26
19
63
76
62
68
67
100
72
81
76
95
101
INDEX
13th Step, The* (10a) Lion’s Den 65
Chutes & Ladders (10a) PMA Crag 86
Climb On My Face*** (10a) South Slabs 19
Friday The 14th (10a) Ripple 33
Frightline** (10a) Breakers 30
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland)** (10a) South Slabs 18
Life In The Trough* (10a) Trough 97
Mood For A Day (10a) Crystal Wall 51
Ogre* (10a) Palace Pages 76
Rapunzel, Rapunzel** (10a) Citadel 78
The Scepter*** (10a) Scepter 74
Toolin’ Woody* (10a) Southeast Face 24
Wigs On Fire** (10a) South Slabs 19
Woody Tool, The* (10a) Southeast Face 24
Dog Face* (10a R) Southeast Face 26
Granite Sea, The** (10a R) Granite Sea 33
Mr. Gone*** (10a R) Southeast Face 26
Seam As It Ever Was (10a R) South Slabs 18
Abbey Ale (10a/b) Fist 42
Middle Class Cracker** (10a/b) M
iddle Class Wall 44
Arda** (10b) Vatoville 83
Bert* (10b) Chimney Sweep Wall 43
Big As A House (10b) Lion’s Den 64
Chute Cheap (10b) PMA Crag 86
Creepy* (10b) Poudre Face 63
Crossbow (10b) Poudre Face 63
Illuminatia, The** (10b) Electric Ocean 93
Jester** (10b) Chamber 69
La Royale* (10b) Nod 100
Let Down Your Hair** (10b) Citadel 78
Medusa, The** (10b) Breakers 30
Monstrosity*** (10b) Mineshaft Wall 67
112
Palace Guard (10b) Poudre Face 63
Rabble Rouser* (10b) Lion’s Den 64
Speak Easy (10b) Wall With A View 81
Stung, The ** (10b) Snake Eyes Wall 104
Ankles Away*** (10b / 6 R) Granite Sea 32
Cows In Space*** (10b / 8 R) Northwest Slabs 22
Turbo Pup** (10b / 8 R) Northwest Slabs 20
Thursday Afternoon Hooky (10b R) Crystal Wall 51
West Of Eden** (10b R) Eden 100
Check Your Head*** (10b/c) Poudre Face 62
Route With A View** (10b/c) Wall With A View 81
Hang 12** (10) Granite Sea 32
Mr. Moonpie** (10) South Slabs 20
Open Up Wide* (10) Crest 33
Parsnip Pete’s Last Dance* (10) Breakers 30
Pumpin’ Puff Muffins* (10) Crystal Wall 55
Wonga, Wonga, Wonga** (10) Breakers 28
Billy’s Face (10 R) Eden 100
Black Wall, The* (10 R) Southeast Face 27
Inside The Outside Whole (10+) Electric Ocean 93
Bodies Like Sheep (10c) Lion’s Den 64
Breakin’ Trail (10c) B.B.T. 65
Fisticuffs (10c) Breakers 30
Flue, The** (10c) Chimney Sweep Wall 43
Inyerbuttkwa** (10c) Crystal Wall 57
Original Sin*** (10c) Eve’s Cave 101
Party Mixer (10c) Wall With A View 81
Rung, The** (10c) Snake Eyes Wall 104
Silver Girl** (10c) Crystal Wall 53
Strictly Business** (10c) Mineshaft Wall 67
Velvet Brown** (10c) Sail 39
Velvet Tan (10c) Sail 39
Doctor Cow*** (10c or 11c) Northwest Slabs 22
Fish & Whistle (10c R) Eden 100
Blob, The* (10c R/X) South Slabs 18
Brown Chossum Special, The (10d) Chamber 69
Dirty Love* (10d) South Slabs 18
Hantavirus (10d) Scepter 74
My Name Is Mud (10d) Trough 97
Powerpoint (10d) Mineshaft Wall 67
Rack, The* (10d) Chamber 69
Sanctus* (10d) Chamber 69
Spot Of Bother (10d) Wall With A View 81
Wildstreak* (10d R / 6 X) South Slabs 19
Mr. Squigglie (10+) Electric Ocean 92
TM Crack (10+)
Nod 98
Undertall* (10+) Undertall Wall 40
5.1Od/5.11a
Melkor* (10d/11a) With Cheese** (10d/11a) 5.11a - 5.11d
A-Lady* (11a) Cross Mojonation! (11a) Drawn & Quartered (11a) Flail* (11a) Free, But Not Cheap (11a) POUDRE CANYON ROUTES
Vatoville 83
Nod 100
D-Man
B.B.T.
Chamber
Poudre Face
PMA Crag
83
65
69
63
86
Inner Mounting
Flame, The** (11c) Southeast Face 27
Jammin’ With Bob** (11c) South Slabs 20
Lenora*** (11c) Red Wall 73
Look Who They Let In
The Back Door (11c) PMA Crag 86
Moon Boots (11c) Red Wall 73
Over The Ramparts (11c) Chamber 70
Pale Corner** (11c) Last Turn Crag 105
Pet Cemetary (11c) Crystal Wall 55
Roofus Dickus* (11c) South Slabs 18
Side Show** (11c) Cirque Du Poudre 82
Stanley’s Steamer (11c) Lion’s Den 64
Temptation** (11c) Eve’s Cave 101
Tool Man** (11c) Crystal Wall 51
Trojan Romance*** (11c) South Slabs 18
Wang Chung, The** (11c) Snake Eyes Wall 104
Wild Rose* (11c) Trough 96
Fantastic Planet** (11c or 10a) Crystal Wall 51
All In A Daze Work** (11c/d) Citadel 78
Blow Me Down** (11c/d / 9 R) Granite Sea 32
A Roof* (11d?) Granite Sea 32
Blackstreak** (11d R) South Slabs 19
Booty Prize* (11d) Undertall Wall 40
Dog Will Hunt (11d) Trough 97
Flung, The** (11d) Snake Eyes Wall 104
Green Lantern* (11d) Chamber 70
Jaminy Crackit*** (11d) Sentinel 34
No Respect** (11d) Back On Black Wall 73
Steep & Cheap** (11d) B.B.T. 65
Streaky Stylee*** (11d) Middle Class Wall 44
Crystal Method* (11+ R) Crystal Wall 53
5.11d/5.12a
Goin’ Streakin’** (11d/12a) Middle Class Wall 44
Mish Mast (11d/12a) Sail 39
Tamed Donkeys** (11d/12a) Upper Echelon 46
5.12a - 5.12d
Anahata (12a) Electric Ocean 94
Any Which Way You Can* (12a) Breakers 30
Back On Black** (12a) Back On Black Wall 73
Between Nothingness &
Eternity*** (12a) South Slabs 16
Go Spuds Go*** (12a) South Slabs 16
High As I Wanna Be* (12a) Trough 97
O.D.K**** (12a) Upper Echelon 47
Poudre Pie** (12a) Chamber 70
Rastajam** (12a) Southeast Face 28
Red Planet** (12a) Red Wall 73
Rock Wars** (12a) Last Turn Crag 105
Soot** (12a) Chimney Sweep Wall 43
Sporting Green*** (12a) Palace Pages 76
Vishokkuxxudpokkuxxda*** (12a) Electric Ocean 94
Way, The** (12a) Breakers 30
Blue Steel* (12a/b) Red Wall 73
Boys Are Back
In Town** (12a/b) Back On Black Wall 73
113
INDEX
Frightline Roof** (11a) Breakers 30
Gangsta Man In A Cadillac* (11a) B.B.T. 65
Garden Of Eden** (11a) Eden 100
Ghost Of Cedar Creek** (11a) Vatoville 83
Gossip Column (11a) Palace Pages 76
It Is What It Is* (11a) Mineshaft Wall 67
Plate Tectonics (11a) Sail 39
Shoulda Coulda* (11a) Upper Echelon 47
Spoon Woman (11a) Electric Ocean 95
Uneedaluebben** (11a) Red Wall 73
Testicle Traverse** (11a or 9) South Slabs 18
Flabby Little Girly Man* (11a R) N
orthwest Slabs 20
Ballet Of The Bulge*** (11b) Crystal Wall 57
Benchmark, The* (11b) Last Turn Crag 105
Blue Collar Baby (11b) Middle Class Wall 44
Bosch Hog (11b) Crystal Wall 55
Check Your Six** (11b) Poudre Face 62
Citadel** (11b) Citadel 78
Dear Slabby*** (11b) Palace Pages 76
Delicious Demon*** (11b) Snake Eyes Wall 102
Don’t Peav The Beav (11b) Red Wall 73
Forest Fire (11b) B.B.T. 65
Hyssop* (11b) Trough 96
In Between The Sheets (11b) Chamber 69
Last In Show (11b) Chamber 69
Love It Or Hate It* (11b)
Chamber 69
One Night Stand** (11b) Electric Ocean 93
Pinklepile (11b) Upper Echelon 46
Pulp Friction* (11b) Nod 98
Road To Redemption*** (11b) Chamber 69
Rusty Shackleford (11b) Chamber 68
Snake Trails (11b) Snake Eyes Wall 102
Turtlebeak* (11b) Breakers 28
Black Market* (11b / 7X) South Slabs 16
Just Another Pretty Face (11b R) Southeast Face 24
Bad Boys Bolt** (11b/c) South Slabs 16
Moment Of Clarity** (11b/c) Nod 98
Adulteress, The (11) Eve’s Cave 101
Dancin’ In The Rain* (11) Breakers 28
Frightline Direct** (11) Breakers 30
Good, The Bad, &
The Way Ugly, The (11) Breakers 30
Legos (11) Fist 42
Over The Edge** (11) Eve’s Cave 101
Wolverine** (11) Sail 39
Anchor Thief* (11c) Sail 39
Armor Plated* (11c) Mineshaft Wall 67
Balaam* (11c) Crystal Wall 53
Better Than
Watching Television*** (11c) Crystal Wall 53
Black Crocus* (11c) Trough 96
Britney’s Spear** (11c) Crystal Wall 57
Death & Disfiguration* (11c) Mineshaft Wall 67
D-Man** (11c) D-Man 83
Fatman In The Bathtub* (11c) South Slabs 19
Fight Like A Brave** (11c) Snake Eyes Wall 104
Git Wood* (11c) Chimney Sweep Wall 43
High Speed Digger* (11c) Cirque Du Poudre 82
Illusions** (11c) Electric Ocean 93
Crago Corner*** (12a/b) Breakers 30
Small Fry*** (12a/b) Chamber 70
Armed Response*** (12b) Breakers 28
Bum Lung, The* (12b) Snake Eyes Wall 104
Fahrenheit 5.11** (12b) Crystal Wall 51
General Lee, The** (12b) Crystal Wall 55
Mass Appeal*** (12b) Middle Class Wall 44
Moose Knuckles*** (12b) Upper Echelon 46
Red Hot Space Suit*** (12b) Red Wall 73
Shit, Piss, Spit Up & Drool (12b) Lion’s Den 64
Snake Eyes** (12b) Snake Eyes Wall 102
Tailspin**** (12b) Upper Echelon 47
Elijah** (12b/c) Chimney Sweep Wall 43
Good Ol’ Boys* (12b/c) Crystal Wall 55
Roll The Bonez* (12b/c) Citadel 78
Tour De Poudre**** (12b/c) Crystal Wall 53
Where’s The Beef?*** (12b/c) Poudre Face 62
Half-Mast** (12) Sail 39
Lichen It** (12) B.B.T. 65
Big Mac*** (12c) Chamber 70
Cannon Ball** (12c) Mineshaft Wall 67
Cirque Du Poudre*** (12c) Cirque Du Poudre 82
Frozen Echo** (12c) Undertall Wall 40
Pinklebear, The*** (12c) Upper Echelon 47
Wake Of The Red Witch** (12c) Citadel 78
Sunday’s Child*** (12c/d) Lion’s Den 64
Dream Of Poudre*** (12d) Upper Echelon 47
Folsom Flute Easy Var.*** (12d) Upper Echelon 47
Orange Crimpsicle** (12d) Crystal Wall 51
Rapid Fire** (12d) Mineshaft Wall 67
Keelhaul** (12+) Sail 39
5.13a - 5.13b/c
Obituary** (13-) Twinkletoes*** (13a) Eye In The Sky*** (13a/b) Dark Pony*** (13b) Folsom Flute*** (13b/c) Palace Pages
Middle Class Wall
Crystal Wall
Upper Echelon
Upper Echelon
76
44
57
47
47
Projects
Atlas Shrugged (Project) Electric Ocean 95
Cyberpunk (Project) Electric Ocean 95
Dark Horse*** (Project) Upper Echelon 47
Firewoman (Project) Electric Ocean 93
Stupid Happy With
Everything (Project) PMA Crag 86
Tangerine (Project) Electric Ocean 93
Temple Of The Dog (Project) Electric Ocean 93
Unknown (Project) Snake Eyes Wall 102
Unknown/Unrated
INDEX
Unknown (?) Southeast Face 24
Unnamed (?) Sail 39
Prometheus Rising**** (Unrated) E lectric Ocean 92
114
NOTES
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115
This guidebook is written
and provided by the
NCCC. Our mission is to
promote and preserve
climbing in Northern
Colorado for generations
to come.

Poudre Canyon - Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition

Transcription

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