Across AJET Japan
Transcription
Across AJET Japan
FEBRUARY 2002 February AJET Across Japan AJET Across Japan WHAT ’S INSID E 7 Studying Japanese 9 Thar She Blows 14 Short Story 23 AJET Elections www.ajetacrossjapan.com AJET Across Japan VF EBRUARY 2 2002 From the Editor Playing with Fire February is an unscrupulous month. Concealed between New Year’s and almost the end of winter, February hits most JET participants with a tremendous emotional punch. Seven months of highs and lows are counted up, experiential negatives and positives are quantified, a paper gets signed, and the next five months are faced with a whole new perspective. The new opportunity to continue into a fourth year for some JETs simply hands over a few more victims to the dreaded ni-gatsu. I hope that the February issue of AAJ might provide you with some relief. There’s an interesting renewal-related short story from Kelley Rich and a thought-provoking take on culture shock and whale meat in the rice bowl from Rod Overaa. Whether or not you intend to renew, please remember next year’s leaders and vote in the AJET elections. Platforms will be published in the March issue. And perhaps you can relieve some of that decision-making stress by writing a submission for the AAJ. As always, feel free to contact me at ajetacrossjapan@yahoo.com. Good luck. Dear Fellow JETs, I am a second year ALT in Nara Prefecture and am writing to ask your assistance in turning a fundraising endeavor into a classroom project with attainable real-life humanitarian goals. My first experience with the Non-Profit Organization Kokkyo Naki Kodomotachi – Children Without Borders – was when I spent a small portion of my summer holiday visiting the KNK sponsored children’s shelters in Vietnam. The children I met – pre-teens sold into prostitution or forced to deal narcotics often by their own parents – these kids didn’t ask for a thing. For them, a tin of crayons was all it took to bring hundredwatt smiles to their faces. It is on their behalf that I present the following request. 5 Fishy Culture Shock 9-11 Short Story ThaiStyle 14-21 The cover photography features Yanaizu, Fukushima’s Kokuzon Hadaka Mairi. The picture was taken by Dana Chapnick. paign is a chance to turn a charity event into a classroom project with the simultaneous goals of increasing international awareness among your students as well as raising funds for the most abused children in neighboring Asian countries. Students are asked to go out into the community and collect five-yen coins, stringing them on ropes twenty at a time. The go en coin has a special significance in Japanese lore-- to find one’s destiny and bring good fortune to the recipient. Imagine if your destiny was to bring good fortune to an underprivileged child in another country. The money from the 5 en ropes will directly help these children in need. Letter to the Editor As cultural ambassadors in Japan, one of our primary goals is to bring the outside world into the local community. The Yujo Go En Dama cam- For KNK, the goals of this campaign are the joint aims of education, cultural exchange and humanitarian aid. For JETs, one of the greatest challenges we as educators face is presenting material in a way that is both interesting and accessible to continued on page 3 FEBRUARY 2002 AJET Across Japan 3 continued from page 2 our students. This project will provide a way to achieve all of these goals. Consider my own experience. EDITOR Ann Culp ON-LINE EDITOR Owen Grieb ADVERTISING EDITOR Leika Hancock Earth Bennett, Angela Broeckels, Dana Chapnick, Mark Flanigan, Ginevra House, Derrick Johnson, Rod Overaa, Kelley Rich, Brett Robson, Andrea Smith AAJ is published at the beginning of each month. The deadline for A A J article submisions and Letters to the Editor is the 10th of each month. AJET Across Japan is produced for the benefit of all AJET groups and AJET members. AAJ is an open forum. The AAJ Editor will accept submissions and edit based on space availability. All submissions and letters should be sent to ajetacrossjapan@yahoo.com. Advertising should be sent to: aajadverts@yahoo.com On-line inquiries should go to: grieb@cts-net.ne.jp www.ajetacrossjapan.com Letters to the Editor: ajetacrossjapan@yahoo.com After prompting students to create a list of needs in Japan versus that of developing Asian countries, the result was the poignantly skewed picture of ketais and computers versus food and shelter. Students were allowed to reach their own conclusions about why this project is necessary, thereby instilling an intrinsically motivated desire to get involved. Following these classroom scenarios in which students created flyers and posters, we went out into the community together, encouraging assistance from shops and restaurants, libraries and Lion’s Clubs. Jars were filled, ropes were strung and, in the end, a combined effort led by JETs in eighty schools across Japan, ¥900,000 in go en coins was raised within a two-month time allotment. In the coming months, specific details of the next Yujo Go En Dama campaign will be circulated to all JET Participants in Japan. In the meantime, if you would like further information about KNK or the Go En Dama campaign, please consult their website at www.knk.or.jp or consult the AJETVSIG site at www.geocities.com/ ajetvsig or contact me at go_en@hotmail.com. We hope that by the time the material is received and the deadlines are in place, JETs will be eager enough to spearhead this campaign within their own communities. As you know, there are over 6,000 JETs in Japan. Together, there is so much that we can do. Rachel Jones Nara AJET Across Japan 4 Chair: Angela Broeckel ajetncchair@yahoo.com Vice Chair: J.D. Sparks ajetvc@yahoo.com Treasurer: Benjamin Hedrick ajettreasurer@yahoo.com.com Block 1 (Akita, Aomori, Hokkaido, Iwate, Yamagata): Brian Clarke ajetb1@yahoo.com Block 2 (Fukushima, Miyagi, Niigata, Tochigi): Dana Chapnick ajetblock2@yahoo.com Block 3 (Gunma, Ibaraki, Saitama): Kamala Burks genkiblock3@yahoo.com Block 4 (Chiba, Kanagawa, Tokyo, Yamanishi): Emily Friedman ajetb4@yahoo.com Block 5 (Aichi, Gifu, Mie, Nagano, Shizuoka): Brendan Keenan ajetblock5@yahoo.com Block 6 (Fukui, Ishikawa, Kyoto, Shiga, Toyama): Erica Yelensky ajetblock6@yahoo.com Block 7 (Hyogo, Nara, Osaka, Wakayama): Omar Karlin ajetblock7@yahoo.com Block 8 (Ehime, Kagawa, Kochi, Okayama, Shimane, Tokushima, Tottori): Alonzo Surrette ajetblock8@yahoo.com Block 9 (Fukuoka, Hiroshima, Nagasaki, Saga, Yamaguchi): Kiesha Speech ajetblock9@yahoo.com Block 10 (Kagoshima, Kumamoto, Miyazaki, Oita, Okinawa): Gabriel Johnson ajetb10@yahoo.com CIR/SEA Rep: Catherine Dawson ajetcirsea@yahoo.com Database Administrator: Nicholas Dimascio ajetdba@yahoo.com News VF EBRUARY 2002 The Voice Hello JETs and welcome back from your Winter Holidays! I hope this edition of AAJ finds you well and rested after your time off from work. Some of you traveled abroad and took advantage of the location of Japan in reference to all of the Southeastern Asian countries, others of you jaunted out to Europe to explore the culture there, some of you stayed home here in Japan, and others went home for the holidays. I sincerely hope that wherever you spent your vacation you had a chance to re-focus and regenerate your energy for the coming year. This next year in the JET Programme offers many improvements that will benefit everyone involved. One of those changes concerns 3rd year JETs — this year 3rd year JETs are able to apply for a 4th year on the JET Programme either as an Elementary School ALT or as an ALT Advisor. It will depend on the prefecture how many 4th year JETs they intend to hire. The requirements on becoming a 4th year include: - A good understanding and use of the Japanese language (equivalent to that of an entering CIR on the JET Programme); and, - A high work performance at their host institution. If you are interested in staying a 4th and possibly a 5th year on the JET Programme, and you are a 3rd year JET, please make sure to read the February CLAIR newsletter. This newsletter will contain the information you will need to know for applying to these positions. So, there you have it! Again, PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU READ THE FEBRUARY CLAIR NEWSLETTER! If you have any questions after reading that, as always, send me an email at: ajetncchair@yahoo.com. Keep warm in this cold weather, and keep the spirit of AJET alive! Angela Broeckel AJET National Council Chair ajetncchair@yahoo.com ajetacrossjapan@yahoo.com www.ajetacrossjapan.com FEBRUARY 2002 News AJET Across Japan 5 The Nozawa Onsen Fire Festival My favorite and last drinking story... Andrea Smith Nagano Although technically rated one of the best three coming of age festivals in Japan, I have been to Nozawa Onsen Fire Festival only twice (once I was so intoxicated I’m not sure it counts). Nozawa Onsen is a small ski resort village located in Northern Northern Nagano. The fire festival involves gallons of free communal sake (also known as Satan’s water), flames, smoke ash, a 3-story wooden structure, straw traditional costumes, police and firemen who could take the prize for highest alcohol in blood content, and have I mentioned the fire and flames yet? So basically the event is total insanity not to mention the attendance of dozens of Nagano JETs (whose appearance somehow adds to the chaos). I am all for non-drinking events but if you are a professional boozehound like myself or are a cultural festival demon or you simply are “eviiiiel” and want to witness blackmail worthy drunken-ness acts that Nagano JETs are guaranteed to perform than this is the festival for you… (some of them will be SWEATING as they read this, I love it). I must digress and get a little cultural on you to provide some pertinent information. The Nozawa Onsen Fire Festival is a coming of age ceremony for the men in this small ski village. It is always on January 15th and there is always metres and metres continued on page 6 Hello everyone and welcome back to winter!!! For those of you NOT buried in the snow, consider yourselves… hmmm, unlucky? I don’t know, this white stuff is pretty spectacular and all the fun we get to have! Snowball fights, building snowmen, skiing, snowboarding, snow shoeing… the list goes on! The Beat If you ARE in the snow and you’re finding yourself a bit bummed out and not really up for the mountain sports… no worries, there’s plenty of other stuff to do during the winter season in Japan. There are heaps of festivals and New Year’s markets! All you’ve got to do is ask someone and you’ll be whisked off before you know it to a quadrillion different festivities! Just check out the latest festival in my area!!! Z Now that’s what I call interesting! If you don’t have anything that spectacular in your town, go visit someone who does! Just don’t get those winter blues and sit alone under the kotatsu! (Did anyone ever tell you those things are cancerous? Long exposure is definitely not a good idea!) As for AJET, the big news is this: ELECTIONS, ELECTIONS, ELECTIONS!!! If you haven’t seen all the announcements and articles… turn the page please!!! We want YOU on the AJET National Council! So get your motivated, genki, wanna-make-a-difference, self into action and submit that platform!!! Hey, there’s another thing to do if you wanna stay inside! Write a platform for the AJET NC Elections! OK, that’s it for now. Until next month, take care of yourselves and find some interesting festivals in your area… and by all means, take photos and share your experience with the rest of us at AAJ! Dana Chapnick AJET Block 2 Representative ajetblock2@yahoo.com AJET Across Japan 6 News continued from page 5 of snow on the ground, the trip up (or down) to see the amount of snow here is worth the drive alone. Throughout the week the male town folk build a 2-3 story wooden and straw structure that is shaped like the top half of an hour glass. The arrangement has gotta be stable so that all the would-be 35 year olds in the town can sit on the top for hours in the cold night of the 15th. Drinking sake from huge traditional wooden bottles are their only means for achieving warmth. These dudes are hardcore. The danger area is roped off which includes the big wooden structure at the bottom of the hill, two big stacks of wood (about to be bonfires) placed in the middle of the hill and the slippery ice slope in between. Hundreds come to gather behind the ropes (including the BBC two years ago) to await for the hours of hilarity that are about to ensue. The Nozawa torch, which is made of wood but resembles a dozen tied up pieces of straw, is lit and then carried from the source (which is some traditional house in the heart of Nozawa). When the bonfires are lit with the torch, each male in the village takes his turn lighting his torch and charging down the icy slope to attempt to light the structure on fire. Meanwhile, the 25-year-old men of the village are hanging out at the bottom of the structure, holding onto ropes suspended from the top of the structure. Their mission is to protect the 35-year-olds perched on top by batting the incoming fire torches with sticks. This continues for a couple of hours while mass amounts of sake are consumed, and the crowd cheers on. For those foreigners who dare to take their turn at it, smoke fumes are inhaled, skin and hair become ash-soaked, ski jackets are burned and surprised happy-drunk Japanese faces are encountered throughout the charging ordeal. A special props should go out to the designated drivers, otherwise known as the people who will tell hilarious stories about how to herd the drunk JET sheep into their car while not losing track of the other drunk losers in the snow. In fact, that is the scariest bit of all. Every couple of years a local gets drunk and alone enough to fall asleep in the snow and suffer hypothermia. And one last tip besides dressing really really warmly. Whatever you do, DO NOT try out your new Japanese if it is nomitai (which means I want to drink), especially if you are a foreign girl who roams from friends during events such as these and you respond well to a crowd of hundreds cheering you on as 7 old Japanese men line up to pour sake down your throat; your fate may become hours of toilet hugging fun. The best festival in Japan is on January 15th every year and definitely the place to be decades from now when you need to know where to go when you want to teach your grandkids how to ski and your kids how to party Japan-style. VF EBRUARY 2002 FEBRUARY 2002 Level UP Z Studying Japanese Brett Robson The Yamasa Institute JETs have a wonderful opportunity to develop Japanese language skills, unfortunately due to many very good reasons, and some not so good reasons; the majority go home with little to show for it. Perhaps the biggest reason is a lack of direction, knowing what and how to study. I meet many eikaiwa and JET Programme teachers, and as I work at a Japanese language school, I’m often asked for advice on studying Japanese. In this article I’ll concentrate on beginner level. In future articles I’ll look at other issues including the Japanese Proficiency Test and full time study. Nothing beats full time study. Attending a residential summer or winter course is a great way to quickly boost your proficiency and should be something to consider if you stay on for a 2nd or 3rd year. Full time study after you’ve finished JET is also a good option. Of course I’d have to recommend our own school www.yamasa.org but there are other schools worth considering. Be careful of programs that gear up for a summer program. Many employ part time teachers that are, at best, inexperienced, at worse unqualified. Accommodation is also a major headache for potential students. It can be very difficult to find a teacher locally but it is possible to study by yourself. If you follow this plan you can have quite reasonable ability in one year. You will need help perhaps from a friendly teacher or your students. Many International Centers have notice boards of people looking for “language exchange”. I don’t think it’s very useful, you are best off with someone who speaks very little English. Using your students is good motivation for them, they will see your efforts and hopefully that will encourage them. Beware of spending too much money on books ▲ AJET Across Japan 7 and dictionaries. You probably don’t need a kanji dictionary and you could get by without a dictionary at first, my recommended texts have all the definitions you need. There are lots of books written in English about studying Japanese, for instance the Power Japanese series; avoid these like the plague. A good rule of thumb is that a book primarily written in English is a waste of time. As you get more advanced you will need a grammar reference. Hiragana and Katakana You have to learn hiragana and katakana. Some people struggle with this but it is a very important step. Drill yourself with index cards. Get your students to write words on the backboard and read them, of course they will write rude words. There is plenty of opportunity to read katakana in supermarkets. There are several books available that teach kana, but at best they are a waste of time, and at worst are bad for your learning (because they teach the kana out of order). Several kana look very similar, for instance hiragana RU/RO and SA/CHI, so you might need to work out a way to remember them. Text book Do not use a book that contains romaji, Japanese written in the English alphabet. If you do, your pronunciation will be crippled forever and you won’t be able to use a Japanese dictionary. I recommend the excellent series Minna no Nihongo which is written in Japanese and is not the same book as “Japanese for Everyone” - see below for details. This series has supplemented the Shin Nihongo Kiso series. There are two volumes, each has a grammar book, a translation and explanatory book available in many languages, and a homework book. You should be able to order it from any bookstore (It doesn’t seem to be available from US or Japan Amazon). The Minna no Nihongo books have Japanese as it is normally written using the appropriate kanji but also has small hiragana (known as furigana) written over each character to give the reading. This continual exposure to kanji means you will learn continued on page 8 VF EBRUARY AJET Across Japan 8 continued from page 7 many kanji simply from seeing them often and as you learn more you will rely on the furigana less. 2002 Recommended Text Books Minna no Nihongo 1 (Text) ISBN 4-88319-102-8 2,500yen Minna no Nihongo 1 (English grammatical notes) ISBN 4-88319-107-9 2,000yen Minna no Nihongo 1 (homework book) ISBN 4-88319-135-4 900yen Minna no Nihongo 2 (text) ISBN 4-88319-103-6 2,500yen Minna no Nihongo 2 (English grammatical notes) ISBN 4-88319-108-7 2,000yen Minna no Nihongo 2 (homework book) ISBN 4-88319-140-0 900yen Study each chapter, practice the new words then read Basic Kanji Vol 1 (in English) ISBN 4-89358-091-4 2,400yen the passages and do Basic Kanji Vol 2 (in English) ISBN 4-89358-119-8 2,400yen the drills with the students. Even though it can take 2 to 3 hours, do the and sick, all kanji you learn early on. The book I recommend is Basic Kanji, as it teaches kanji in homework and get your helper to check it. It can be frustrating at first because a logical order and has plenty of exercise material. Many other you cannot actually say anything use- books teach kanji in the same order that Japanese school chilful but building a good vocabulary is dren learn, be aware of this if you use other study aids such as vital. With a reasonable amount of ef- kanji flash cards. Again one or two chapters a week is a good fort you could cover two chapters a speed. (I give a strong warning against the Heisig system). Kanji week, although one chapter a week will exercise books ruled in boxes, are available from any book store, interestingly they very often have Australian themes on the cover. still bring good results. Studying at a slow pace of one chapter from the text and one from the kanji book means after a year you will be finished Kanji Learning kanji is not a difficult Minna no Nihongo and know 500 kanji, a good level of Japanese task as much as a big task. The only which would allow you to hold reasonable conversations and way to tackle it is to keep at it. There is read a surprising amount of material. Doubling this pace to two a chicken and egg problem with learn- chapters a week should not be too onerous for the average ALT. ing kanji. At first you are often learn- Remember to revise regularly. Remember that consistent study is the most important ing kanji characters that form words you don’t know and in your text you point and use your Japanese whenever you can, it doesn’t matter are learning words that you don’t know how silly you sound. Before you know it people will really mean the kanji for. However as you advance it when they say “nihongo ga jouzu desu ne”. you’ll find that your kanji knowledge Brett Robson is a former JET and now works at The Yamasa helps greatly in your vocabulary study. Institute, www.yamasa.org in the International Office, as one of A good example is the word for altithe multi-lingual staff assisting Yamasa students coming to, and tude sickness, kouzanbyou. It is comstudying in Japan. posed of the kanji for high, mountain Peer Support Group PSG is a telephone support line for JETs operated by fellow JETs. This service is operated every night from 8pm to 8am. The toll-free telephone number for PSG is 0120-43-7225. Red, orange, yellow, blue, gay, straight, bisexual, Jewish, Muslim, Hindu help CLAIR learn how JETs share their culture. Answer the AJET Census. 23-25 FEBRUARY 2002 AJET Across Japan 9 Rod Overaa Miyagi There’s something fishy about school lunches in Japan. Or, more precisely, something distinctly cetacean. At least there was last Thursday, as I sat down with my fellow teachers to partake of the kyuushoku so graciously provided for us each day. At the time, nothing looked out of the ordinary—a small salad of spinach, kelp and grated carrot, some small chunks of meat coated with sesame seeds, milk, tea, and the obligatory tin of rice. I wouldn’t have given it a second thought, had not my kocho-sensei asked if I was enjoying the meal, glimmers of impish mischief dancing in his eyes. “Oishii,” I replied, crunching a morsel of the mystery-meat between my molars. “What is it?” “Kujira desu,” he replied, smiling through silver-capped teeth. Kujira, I repeated, mentally thumbing through the highly abridged JapaneseEnglish dictionary in my head. Then I had it. Kujira. Whale. Now believe me, I’m no vegetarian. I’m the kind of guy who can go to the State Fair back home, pat the cows on their tufty heads, stare into their soft baby browns and then order a Big Mac an hour later, with no compunctions. Cows, pigs, fish, chicken— they’re all fair game in my book. Hell, it wouldn’t surprise me if your dictionary had my picture in it, right next to the word “omnivore.” And as things stand now, eating whale is probably a hell of a lot safer than eating Japanese beef. (I’m pretty sure we would’ve heard about an outbreak of “mad whale disease.”) So, the sudden tempest of queasiness roiling in my tummy hadn’t been caused by some niggling moral scruple about eating the flesh of dead animals. Neither, I realized, was it a simple matter of personal taste. I don’t begrudge the Japanese people their anago or unagi (varieties of eel) just because the thought of eating such creatures causes my stomach to do back-flips. I don’t have a problem with people eating octopus or squid, either, though I personally find the rubbery texture of the little devils abhorrent. (The way I figure it, if my teeth actually bounce off of a piece of meat, it’s Nature’s way of saying, “Hey, Thar She Blows! Culture Shock Served With a Side of Rice you shouldn’t be eating that.”) People eat all kinds of things that I wouldn’t touch with a ten-foot fork. That doesn’t necessarily change my opinion of them. So what was it about the idea of eating whale that bothered me so much? There’s a joke currently whizzing through cyberspace about two scientists who are discussing the difference between biology and sociology. “If the baby looks like the father,” cracks one of the scientists, “that’s biology. If it looks like the mailman, that’s sociology.” The parallel should be obvious. Although there is undeniably a cultural component at work in the Japanese practice of whaling, when you boil it down, they’re just putting food on the table. Human hungry, human eat. Biology, pure and simple. My reaction, on the other hand, was purely sociological—that is to say, driven by a set of beliefs, values and attitudes instilled in me by whatever broad-based culture the United States might be accused of having. Setting aside for the moment the issue of endangered species, we Yanks believe that whales—along with their relatives the dolphin and porpoise—are highly intelligent creatures. In fact, many Americans believe that whales are (next to humans) the most intelligent life forms on the planet, smarter even than the much-ballyhooed chimpanzee. (Support for this idea can be found continued on page 10 AJET Across Japan VF EBRUARY 2002 10 from page 9 to vomit. Why? Because my cultural values dictate that we humans shouldn’t go about murdering intelligent, self-aware beings. Especially not with gut-rending explosive harpoons. So there I was, watching my Japanese coworkers blithely crunching away on their Moby McNuggets, when I was struck by another realization, one so chilling that it caused me to drop my hashi onto my lunch tray with a clatter. This was what all those JET Program lecturers had been constantly droning on about— first in Seattle, then at the Tokyo Orientation, and yet again in Sendai. This was the dreaded Sword of Damocles looming ominously over the head of every firstyear JET. This was what I, after four months in Japan, confidently believed I had somehow developed an immunity to. This was Culture Shock. Once I admitted that I was suffering from my first official case of Culture Shock, I was faced with the dilemma of what to do about it. Sure, I could take the Head-in-the-Sand approach, avoid sullying my tongue with the unclean whale meat and try to pretend that This Isn’t Happening. But frankly, that seemed like a bit of a sell-out, a compromise of my cultural values. (Fe- in certain scientific studies, which suggest that “whale songs” are actually highly sophisticated languages. These languages appear to be group-specific, and are passed down from generation to generation.) I had— albeit in ignorance—been eating the flesh of a sentient being, and it made me want to vomit. (Female ALTs who have decided that it’s just easier to fetch that cup of tea for their supervisor than to argue the point might have some idea of what I mean.) Conversely, I could leap up onto the proverbial soapbox and decry the evils of whaling until everyone at my school hated my guts and wished I would just go home. That didn’t seem too constructive, either. After a great deal of introspection, I finally decided on a less dramatic approach. First, I’d do some research, to learn a little more about the Japanese whaling program. Secondly, I would ask other ALTs and a few Japanese people for their opinions on the issue. That way, I figured, I could give myself the benefit of a more balanced perspective, and gain some keener insights into the foreign culture that surrounded me. Or, failing that, I would at least be able to condemn an entire race of people for their barbarism from a more informed position (which was almost as good). Here’s a sample of what I learned: Commercial whaling has been banned in Japan since 1988. Whaling is currently only legal under the direction of the Japanese Institute of Cetacean Research (www.whalesci.org). This organization—part of the Japanese government’s Fisheries Agency—currently operates two whaling programs, one in the North Pacific and one in the waters off Antarctica. The Antarctic research program allows for the taking of 400 minke whales per annum. For the year 2000, the Northern Pacific fleet was legally permitted to take a total of 160 whales: 100 minke whales; 50 Bryde’s whales; and 10 sperm whales. The fleet came up only 2 sperm whales short of reaching this quota. Quotas are subject to annual revisions, as populations of various whale species increase or decrease over time. Intense scrutiny and pressure from the international community has forced the Japanese government to attempt to justify its whaling program. In September 2000, Joji Morishita, head of Japan’s Fisheries Agency, told continued on page 11 AJET Across Japan FEBRUARY 2002 11 from page 10 ABC news that Japan’s whale research program is being conducted in order to gauge the whales’ impact on fish populations. According to Morishita, the naughty whales are scarfing down so many fish that the livelihoods of Japanese fishermen are threatened. The Institute of Cetacean Research itself offers this explanation: “In order to gather detailed information the study of internal organs and tissues is essential.” In other words, they cut ‘em open just to see what’s inside. Whatever is left over is sold to wholesalers, who then distribute the meat to restaurants and—bikuri!—school lunch programs. International critics, however, call attention to the possibility that the Japanese research program may in some instances serve as a cover for illegal whaling, either in excess of established quotas, or of endangered whale species. Since the wholesaling of whale meat in Japan is an industry that averages between $27-36 million a year in sales, it’s not hard to imagine that there exists a temptation for poaching. In fact, recent DNA testing on whale meat sold in Japan has shown that what turns up on your lunch tray is not only the legally-hunted minke whale, but also blue whale, humpback whale, fin whale, and dolphin. The latter three whale species are all protected under the Endangered Species Act, and as for the dolphins, well, they’re just so adorable! Canned tuna—often criticized because dolphins are frequently caught and killed in the fishermen’s nets—seems eco-friendly by comparison. The first phase of my impromptu research complete, I turned to interviewing my fellow JETs. Most generally agreed that whaling is cruel and unnecessary, a throwback to an era when people depended upon whale oil for light and heat. (Of course, back then, they also kept slaves and wore really funny-looking hats.) We all forgave the subsistence whaling conducted by those peoples who still rely upon whales for survival, such as the natives of northeastern Russia and the Inuit. None of the JETs I spoke with admitted to knowingly partaking of whale meat—though several of them did turn a sickly shade of green when I brought the subject up, leading me to believe that they, like me, had unwittingly eaten some. One woman— after an enjoyable and satisfying conversation about the evils of whaling—kindly offered me a candied grasshopper from a tin brimming with the little buggers. I politely declined. I was surprised, however, to learn that the presence of whale meat was a lesser culinary concern for some JETs than that of other forms of animal protein. Jewish JETs, for example, decried the almost daily servings of pork in their school lunches. The worst thing, they complained, was that they never knew just where the forbidden pig was going to show up—in the soup, the salad, the sweet potatoes, or even, on occasion, mixed in with their rice. For them, lunch had become a spiritual game of hide-and-seek. Most of the Japanese people I spoke to adopted the standard Party Line, that eating whale meat was okay because only research whales are used. (They apparently couldn’t see the circular logic here, which evades the larger question, “Should we be killing whales for research purposes?”.) Some couldn’t comprehend that this would even be an issue, shrugging their shoulders with a bemused look that said, “Hey, meat is meat.” Others said that they had no problem with whaling in principle, though they didn’t personally care for the taste. A precious few— I like to think of them as “The Enlightened”—condemned the practice, saying that whaling was no longer an economic necessity, and was barbarous to boot. The latter group aside, one thing became patently clear from my random polling: This was indeed an issue about which both Westerners and Japanese had very strong—and very different—cultural attitudes. Some instances of Culture Shock are undoubtedly worse than others. For example, I hate changing my shoes every time I enter a home or building. It’s a pain in the ass. Worse yet, it makes me continued on page 12 AJET Across Japan FEBRUARY EBRUARY 2002 2002 VVF 12 from page 11 feel like Mr. Rogers. I have to consciously stop myself from asking people, “Won’t you be my neighbor?”. But as irritating as I find this Japanese custom, it registers pretty low on the ol’ Culture-Shock-o-Meter. For one thing, it wasn’t much of a shock in the first place, because I knew about it beforehand. Secondly, most Americans don’t have a strong cultural bias on shoe etiquette, one way or the other. And lastly, I’ve been forced to adapt to the Japanese way, because it’s not a policy that’s open to discussion. Like a cigarette smoker, or a kitty-cat with a weak bladder, the only choice I have in the matter is, “In, or out?”. The problem has been resolved, because I made a conscious choice to just go with the flow and not get too stressed out about it. On the other hand, the Culture Shock I experienced as a result of what I now sardonically refer to as “the whale incident” was perhaps of a more virulent strain, because the root cause of it cannot be resolved during my stay in Japan, and may not be for decades to come. I certainly don’t plan to change my own attitudes regarding this issue, and I don’t stand much of a chance changing those of the Japanese people. On this point, we’ll just have to invoke the old saw about “agreeing to disagree.” Yet, although I can’t resolve this conflict to my satisfaction, two very good things have come from the experience. First, I learned a great deal about Japanese culture that might otherwise have eluded me. If that whale meat had not been served to me, or if no one had bothered to point out what it was, I never would have gathered all the information presented here, or initiated the discussions from which I learned so much. This is what international exchanges are all about— experiencing, learning and teaching about those things that make people different (and hopefully finding a few things we all have in common, too). Second, I learned that Culture Shock isn’t necessarily the sinister, disruptive bugaboo that the guidebooks and JET alumni describe. While my experience certainly qualifies as Culture Shock, it hasn’t turned my life upside down, or reduced me to a quivering mass of anxiety. It hasn’t substantially affected my daily life in Japan at all. I have merely had to accept that, for whatever reasons, some things are just different here, different from what I’m used to, different from what I believe. And if that were not so, there wouldn’t have been any reason for me to make the trip. AAJ is going totally on-line and we need your help! The author welcomes comments, criticisms and questions about this article at: writrboy@hotmail.com We are currently looking for: ❈Web Editor (web design and maintenance) ❈Copy Editor (article collection and editing) ❈Advertising Editor (advertising and distribution manager) www.ajetacrossjapan.com FEBRUARY 2002 Keeping Warm in Winter AJET AJET Across Across Japan Japan 13 Ginevra House Ecosig’s The Echo Editor a monthly column offered by EcoSIG Well the cold season is definitely upon us; even here in sunny Shikoku, the first snow has fallen, the rice paddies have emptied to reveal their bare concrete skeletons, the mountains look like they’ve just been through an intensive course of chemotherapy, and my washing has a tendency to freeze on the line. So, as you sit at your kotatsu with beautifully warm knees and freezing ears, eating your nabe and drinking hot sake, contemplate a few eco-friendly ways you can improve your lot. 1. Avoid using the heater-cooler thing stuck on your wall. For a start, it’s stupidly expensive and totally inefficient. For another, it’s up by the ceiling, so it’s not going to do a very good job of heating your room (remember all that stuff from science class about heat rising? Well someone here obviously didn’t). If you must use it, get a silvered mat (available at any good 100¥ shop) to put above it and reflect the heat down. 2. I know it stinks, and pumps out carbon monoxide, but kerosene heaters are a cheap, efficient and clean way to generate heat. Just don’t forget to ventilate the room every hour or so. Whatever form of heater you use, you can use a fan to make the warm air circulate efficiently around the room or apartment. 3. Get out that kotatsu. With an under cover and over cover, you can be toasty and warm (from the waist down. Bizarre, how anyone ever came up with this method of heating). 4. Buy a rug, and some warm slippers. The floors in my house are freezing and draughty; having a rug makes all the difference. ADVERTISEMENT 5. Good, old fashioned, sausage-shaped draught excluders placed strategically by the front door can make a world of difference. 6. Close the curtains in the evenings to keep out those draughts. 7. DIY double-glazing. Since the real thing doesn’t seem to have caught on here (not in your average JET housing at least) why not make your own with sheets of clear plastic. Be careful to leave some windows free for ventilation, particularly if you are using a kerosene heater. 8. Wear a hat and socks in bed. A lot of your body heat Teacher training in Japan! The School for is lost through your head. A friend of a friend swears International Training (SIT), an accredited by putting a teaspoon of powdered ginger root in his college of World Learning based in the socks. United States, is pleased to offer its 130 9. Having a hot bath before you go to bed is a great hour intensive TESOL Certificate Course in way to warm up. both Kyoto and Tokyo for March and August 10. Eat lots of chocolate. I don’t know if this actually of 2002. The course covers practical helps you stay warm, but I find it a great comfort in aspects of teaching English to adult learners these long, grim months. I also recommend drinking and is grounded in SIT’s philosophy of umeshu (plum liquor) mixed with hot water. experiential learning. And if all else fails, just save your nenkyu up and take a http://www.geocities.com/ sittesoljapan long holiday in Thailand… AJET Across Japan 14 Kelley Rich Somewhere at Sea Hmm. Six months in Japan. Feel I ought to celebrate. Champagne or something. No wait, forgot, don’t actually drink champagne. Ah. Recall had lovely grape juice and fizzy water with supper. That should do. That should do nicely. There we are then. A triumph. Time flies so fast here, especially if you spend much of it chewing split-ends over whether or not to renew one’s contract for another year. A decision, no less, which must be made at the six-month point. Six-month point! Here I am only just barely able to recite my phone number in Japanese and I’m supposed to know if I want to stay on this island another eighteen months? Alas, I resolved to let Thailand make up my mind. So where was I. Ah yes, Bangkok. The minute I stepped off the plane, I felt a surge of inspiration as though there were a great adventure seeker inside me bursting to get out and destined to accomplish great things! So much has happened since The Big Move and, thinking of all the possibilities that lay ahead, I decided this was an excellent time to REINVENT MYSELF. Why not? Normally I don’t subscribe to all the New Year’s Resolu- Feature tions hooey, but it made an excellent distraction from other decisions that threatened to etch permanent creases into my forehead. Yes, with a lean here and a tilt there, why, I could use my time abroad to become the woman I’ve always wanted to be. I could become a combination Amelia Eardhart/ Pincess Leia-type in no time at all! As I ventured out of my hotel in Banglamphoo past the stray dogs, piercing stench and strung out post-graduate dropouts of Western humanity, I formed a mental list of what needed to be accomplished. Self Improvements (Thailand-inspired): -Obtain International Man of Mystery-type boyfriend (to become husband) -Improve Self-Appearance in manner of natural earthy Citizen of the World-type, as if riding stallion bareback on beach in slow motion across screen VF EBRUARY 2002 -Become culinary expert and exquisite (casual chic) chef to hold brilliant dinner parties at future home with recipes derived from enviable travels around world -Save Money to purchase beautiful new home on secluded California beach to share with boyfriend—>husband and adoring angel-like children -Save Money in General, like for retirement though can’t imagine -Have Adoring Angel-like Children -Become Skilled Writer/ Painter/Photographer/All Around Artist-type -Learn Japanese as well as French to go with Useless German to further impress guests at exquisite dinner parties in future beach house -Travel to Over Thirty Countries (minimum), especially slightly dangerous ones with squat toilettes and cold showers in order to vastly Improve The Lion Sleeps Tonight FEBRUARY 2002 Feature Character (stories about which providing excellent dinner party entertainment) -Have Meaningful and Fulfilling Relationships of all kinds despite present condition of relative isolation in charming yet distinctly rural Japan the category of Improve SelfAppearance in manner of Classic Chinese Movie Star with trendy chopsticks-in-hair look. These were not New Year’s Resolutions; they were New Year’s Life Assessments to be accomplished, like college, in approximately four years time. Or five. Who’s counting? The tour itself didn’t actually begin for another day so with more time to explore the city (shop), I combed Bangkok for exciting opportunities to Improve Character (through shopping) as well as interior design of quaint Japanese apartment temporarily distressed by contrasting Westernstyle (junk-type) acquisitions. That’s how I discovered the greatest invention known to mankind. THE SARONG. Brilliant! There are no labels numerically ranked with which to rate one’s body image or all around life success in general. It is the equal opportunity apparel; one size fits all, all men, all women created equal except in different patterns, colors and tones. I immediately purchased two for the price of a Super-Sized Double Cheeseburger Meal, which you can eat anyway, just by adjusting slightly your new sarong. The best part is, men wear them too. There’s nothing sexier than Man in Sarong. Except perhaps King in Sarong. The best thing you can do after visiting Thailand is go rent ANNA AND THE KING about an English teacher (me) With this in mind, the first thing I did in Bangkok was head straight for the tailor’s. Clothes make the woman, I reminded myself. What better way to look and feel good than to have one’s inseam measured accurately? I knew I’d come to the right place because straight away a throng of short Thai and Indian men offered me a Coca-Cola in a can with a straw in it. I sat before a spread of last fall’s catalogues from Western clothiers around the world from which to steal designs. I had arrived intending to purchase one suit and perhaps a couple shirts. Thirty minutes and $400 later, I found myself picking out fabrics for two “Best Quality” suits, five silk blouses and a Suzy Wong Chinese dress with Mandarin collar, which I am meaning to think up a purpose for at my earliest convenience. No matter, such acquisitions fall squarely into AJET Across Japan 15 Hmm. Possibly goes against category of Save Money in General, though. in strange foreign land (guess) who must daily consult with Handsome Burly King Man in gilded silk sarong and not get all squidgy inside from the excitement about what’s underneath. But I digress. At the end of our first day’s travel north, we found ourselves in Sangkhlaburi at a lovely teak guesthouse overlooking a beautiful lake. The first order of business was to sit down on a teak chair at a teak table for a pineapple shake. Pineapple in Thailand is so sweet and lovely as to make you want to take a bath in it and rub it all over your skin. (In private, of course.) Made a mental note to acquire blender upon my return and also to build lovely future beach house entirely out of teak wood. Cannot say enough about teak. Gorgeous dark wood, smooth and sleek under feet. Have never so AJET Across Japan 16 Feature enjoyed going barefoot in all my life, felt lovely and romantic even if as yet no International Man of Mystery to be found. After placing my dinner order of Panaeng Curried Textured Vegetable Protein, I sat there on the patio looking out over the banana trees and tropical plants to where the longtail boats cruised by and the sun fizzled into the water. I sat there trying to imagine a second year in Japan. Would I miss my friends back home too much? Would I be lonely? Celibate? Oh, god... I sat there so long, my gaze soon fell upon a pair of lizards tangled together on the beam near the ceiling. It was the most peculiar arrangement; he biting her neck, she holding still as if slightly annoyed, no movement, no passion from either. I felt as if I had walked in on something terribly personal and intimate but was too involved now to leave. The others in our group began approaching one by one until a small crowd of on-lookers and well-wishers had gathered, mentally projecting our support as if in presence of Royal Wedding. Following the example of Barbara surreptitiously engaging in Boudoir Photography, we leaned in for a closer look. As the tension mounted, we held our collective breath. Does she even like him? Will the relationship last? Or is it just a fling? At long last there was a shutter, tiny lizard-sized convulsions as the audience gasped. It was over. Both heading off their separate ways. The crowd sighed and dispersed. We’ve all been there before. Curry was excellent, though shortly began to cry. Tears flooding cheeks, hands clutching throat, tongue dragging on floor. Sniff. Beads of sweat forming on creased forehead. SNIFF, SNIFF. Temperature rising, heart palpitating, Emergency, 911! God, that was good. Must recall recipe for future dinner party entertainment to compliment animal copulation stories. The whole reason I wanted to go to Thailand in the first place was to ride the elephants. I had VF EBRUARY 2002 heard about such adventures and for some reason harbored a deep, intense desire to sit atop the great beasts. A longtail boat took us deep into the jungle where we eventually reached a clearing, a pack of elephants and their riders waiting for us at water’s edge. Our local guides were Hmong tribesman, having fled political persecution from neighboring Myanmar. In Thailand, they have limited rights but at least they get to ride the elephants with tourists, which must be valuable for its entertainment factor alone. With a cluck from the guide, the elephants graciously knelt to their knees, allowing one fat westerner at a time to step on a wide thigh, clamber up onto broad head, tugging on massive ear and finally settling into basket provided. I did so with ease only to find my companion Katrina windging and flopping about, requiring the services of six bemused local men, eventually and with great drama, landing squarely in my lap. As the applause subsided, our guide nimbly mounted the elephant’s head. He gripped the beast loosely between his thighs, no need for ropes, crossbars or seatbelts. The elephant rose gracefully and fell into formation behind the others, their large rumps waddling slowly from side to side as we swayed in time with their motion. We trekked in this manner for over an hour, crossing rivers, elephant’s spewing water from their trunks, the enormous beasts kneeling unceremoniously to skid down steep embankments on their knees. A Thai woman on the next elephant over offered that I might try riding on the elephant’s head. As we were a good twelve feet in the air with nothing to hold on to, I hesitated. But in view of my new Life Resolutions, in particular to Improve Character, I decided riding an elephant’s head must surely fit the bill. Climbing over me, our guide wedged himself into the basket as I scooted FEBRUARY 2002 forward and held my breath. There was nothing comfortable about this, the hairs from the creature’s thick leathery skin tickling my own (pineapple induced) supple limbs. As the line of pachyderms lurched forward, I swayed wildly to and fro with each step, nearly plunging to certain death at regular intervals. Turns out I was seated too far back, fully at the mercy of the creature’s shoulder blades, soaring and plunging alternately with each step. I shifted forward onto her broad cranium, my thighs digging into the patch behind her ears. Moments later we were on another decline, I imagined myself plunging into the river, trampled in turn by each passing beast. But I remained aloft and began directing my new friend with a shift of the weight or press of the thigh whenever she went astray in pursuit of tasty bamboo. At last we came to a final clearing where another group of tribesmen were waiting to aid in our dismount. We were each handed a plastic baggie filled with the most delectable vegetable fried rice, taking a welcomed seat on the ground and passing around the chili sauce. With their machetes, the guides hacked up pieces of fresh pineapple for desert. I imagined myself in Feature the middle of my annual jungle-themed dinner party in which, dressed in novel sarong and feet bare against fabulous teak floor, I served trendy Hollywood-type guests fried rice in plastic baggies, hacking up tropical fruit with machete much to their great awe and envy. I was so busy eating and dreaming I hadn’t realized the elephants had gone. I was sorry to see them go, they are graceful, respectable beasts with excellent manners and vegetarians besides. Another stroll up the river and we found ourselves at water’s edge beside a selection of long, flimsy looking bamboo rafts. Seven or eight poles were strung together at either end and somehow meant to keep us afloat. Flustered with excitement, I grabbed a pole and eagerly stepped aboard. Katrina crawled uncertainly to the center of the raft, afraid to stand up and wondering out loud what our chances were of falling off. Our guide, a brown-skinned tribesman clad only in sarong, broke us loose from the bunch. We headed downstream, punting our way along by thrusting poles against river’s bottom. We cruised along at lightening speed, propelled by muscle and current and mental vibes from Katrina’s sheer will to stay afloat. Gaining movement on other rafts, we intentionally AJET Across Japan 17 rammed into the back of our companions, hooting wildly as they plunged into the river. I wasn’t really sure which category on my list this fit into but I threw myself wholeheartedly into the competition. Katrina, flat on her stomach, clutched the edges for dear life as we shot down the river, soon taking the lead. Lacking further competition, our companion secured himself, hunkered down and tilted the raft almost upright, shrieking with delight as Katrina and I plunged to our watery destinations. This continued over and over again, the entire length of the river. When it was over, exhausted and satisfied, I gave the man twenty Baht for being of the sporting sort. I couldn’t help but think, could this be the sort of man I’ve been looking for? Attractive in sarong, good with machete, skilled at jungle-type and aquatic-type sports, a man who knows his pineapple. Very practical to have around the house, surely he would know how to work with teak, certainly he must be good with children, elephant rides and all. But how would I find such a man in Japan? Hmm. Perhaps ought to be living in Thailand instead. Nah... Getting into the local spirit of things, I decide to wear my AJET Across Japan 18 new sarong for our jungle trek the next day. It was perfect. I felt a graceful beauty; Sheena, Queen of the Jungle... Xena, Warrior Princess... With category of Improve SelfAppearance in mind, I stumbled through thick underbrush, daintily raising my skirts at stream crossings, sliding gracefully in and out of mud — squish — clinging to vines with one hand, grasping sarong in other. I suddenly felt a new woman, capable of defeating any challenge but with style and grace, indeed — squish, squish — with lovely indigo blue sarong! Our next stop was a remote Karen hilltribe village (also having fled Myanmar’s very, very bad men), reached by jolting ride in back of pick-up truck, resulting in tangled hair crisis as in masses of jungle vines sprouting from head. After pausing to clean the bugs off my teeth, our Karen guide led us to a small river crossing where we, one at a time, shimmied across a pair of single flimsy bamboo poles ironically referred to as a “bridge”. The village consisted of fourteen families in small bamboo houses on stilts, several cows, chickens, roosters and one large happy fat pig. The children, in their best tribal attire, sang songs to us with a mandolin, after which lunch was served. Our meal consisted of fried rice packed in banana leaves, seriously spicy curry, pork served in bamboo trays, banana flower salad, fresh pineapple and cucumbers to Feature sooth the tongue. We played tribal games with the children, which, naturally, we all lost. Then, arranging ourselves in a circle, we performed that most international gesture of friendship, the Hokey-Pokey. Dancing around in mad formations and shakin’ it all about, we achieved what we came for, smiles on faces and positive images of (mad) Westerners that will surely stay with the them for generations. These village children were so charming and lovely I could not help but make plans to model lives of own future angels on jungle-raised beauties. The Karen say their grandfathers teach them that if you take care of the jungle, the jungle takes care of you. I imagine the same thing could apply to Los Angeles; as long as you recycle, consume fat-free tortillas and have regular smog-checks performed on your vehicle, you too can live in harmony with the environment. These children appeared well rounded, centered, intelligent and respectful of their elders. If a teenage boy cannot cook, farm and hunt, it is simple, he will not find a wife. This is the urban equivalent of ordering take-out, lingering in the produce section and remembering to buy flowers on your anniversary. Yes, we could learn a lot from those who live off the earth. Especially for those of us who live off our credit cards. It took us a full twenty-four hours of travel to reach the southern islands. This particu- VF EBRUARY 2002 lar sort of tour relies on local travel so as to experience Thailand as the locals do. This falls directly into category of Travel to Over Thirty Countries as squat toilette and cold shower opportunities with which to Improve Character were in plentiful abundance. Taxi, overnight train, bus, song thau, boat then trudging knee-deep in water. The reward was a secluded island with miles of empty beaches, a small turtle preserve, bungalows, roosters, monkeys and pineapple shakes. Meals were buffet style in which all of the island’s temporary inhabitants gathered for curries, grilled fish, stir-fried noodles, rice and vegetables with fresh tropical fruit for desert. Eating under palm trees with the soothing sound of the Andaman Sea nearby and stars by the zillions was the ideal setting for what I had in mind. I noticed him immediately. The moment we stepped into the grass hut I was greeted by a wry smile beneath a mane of ginger hair tied back in manner of Mel Gibson in PATRIOT/ BRAVEHEART motion pictures. Immediately I thought, actor. Must be. Theatre, not film. It wasn’t until the following nighttime meal that I was to formally be seated next to the FEBRUARY 2002 Feature Celtic Lion who had generated so much intrigue on my behalf. I was right, he’s in the theatre, though a builder not an actor. Yet he works for an alternative kind of theatre company in Galway in which all members of the crew must also perform. In a lilting Irish brogue that was to die for, he explained, ”’Tis nice because you get to build the sets and then you take a bow”. Alas, the following day was spent trekking through the rainforest on a nearby island inhabited by a peculiar Austrian environmentalist in black t-shirt, fisherman’s pants and flipflops. Our guide was interesting, to a point, but more so as we began to realize he was polluted with alcohol, I mean sincerely pissed off his face. I delighted myself with the chance to speak German, only to find that as the day wore on, his answers were slower in coming. After the long muddy excursion we had lunch at his bamboo home, prepared for by his wife who, let’s just say, might not yet be quite old enough to vote. We sat on his porch, the rainforest his backyard, hungrily scarfing down plain noodles. His wife, dressed for the jungle in black-laced hot pants, jewels and thick eyeliner, served up plump Austrian meatballs and fried potatoes, which her adoring husband used to wash down all the whiskey. Shockingly, his first three wives didn’t stick around. In time, he took us back, the boat listing and swaying under his care, leaving us behind to get back to going mad on his island. That night, the Celtic Lion arrived late for supper, dressed in pressed collarless shirt and Chinos, his hair tied back neatly in a long trail down his back. A weathered face, tinges of gray around the hairline, he must have been in his forties. But when he spoke, it was if he were serenading me. He said he spent the whole day just reading a book. On the beach, in the hammock, beneath the tallest tree... Butter knees. He said he once went to Australia for two week’s vacation and ended up staying for three years. AJET Across Japan 19 Churning butter... Was this he? My International Man of Mystery? Island, palm trees, pineapple shakes and dewy accent dripping with Old World charm? Surely this must be the moment. The following evening I took extra care to make my hair all wispylike, slipping on nylon drawstring pants and sleeveless top and heading barefoot down the path to the grass hut where I knew he would be waiting. Our eyes met across the bamboo, he nodding slightly, I giving a little wave, awkwardly frozen in place. After dinner as guests began to disperse, the Lion, myself and a stunning Natural Earthy Beauty-type with hair far more wispier than mine continued chatting for another hour or so. Presently she excused herself, apparently having a husband secluded away somewhere on the island. That left the Celtic Lion and myself alone. On an island. In the dark. He inquired if I would care to join him for another beer. I reluctantly explained I don’t really drink. “Aye, that’s a good woman,” he said, his voice lulling me to mush. I agreed to join him minus the drink only to find he meant join him on the logs, down by the water. We sat there, moonlit island, stars above, rustling palm trees, waves kissing the sand... And me with my pineapple shake. Bliss. I explained how I’m shortly to be the Best Man in a wedding in London. I’m to be a man for a week. “Ah, I don’t believe that a’ t’all, lass, I don’t believe that a’ t’all,” he shook his head while dragging on a cigarette, the corners of his eyes creased in a smile. Something flew down my shirt. I reached deep into my brazier, awkwardly rummaging around as he looked on, eyebrows arched, his cigarette poised on his knee. I located the intruder, an iridescent green june bug, flicking it away with a shutter. “Bug went down my shirt,” I explained. AJET Across Japan 20 Feature “Lucky bug,” he replied, taking a drag. He kept watching me. “It’s fine now,” I assured him. He nodded, flicking ashes. Behind us, the generator shut down and all electricity on the island was cut off for the night. There I was, the lion’s den, my departure immanent in six hours time. There were still a few voices coming from the dark of the main hut, but the heavy silence between us was getting to me. I suggested it might be time to head back. We walked back down the path, shortly coming to the inevitable fork in the road. He continued walking toward his bungalow. I stopped. “I’m this way,” I called from behind. He turned around. “Ah,” he said, heading back towards me. He took me in his arms. “Was lovely to meet you... The girl from Japan,” he said, his face terribly close to mine. He drew me to him in a strong embrace; we kissed lightly on the lips. We smiled at each other and kissed again. He held me in a tight embrace for longer than he should. When we parted, he took my hand. And I followed him. The Lion Man’s bungalow was nothing like the one I shared with three other girls on the other side of Monkey Hill. He had his own private bathroom and shower inside. A view of the sea. His things were neatly unpacked, hung up or put away. There was a small pile of books by the bed. He was planning to stay for a month. Once inside, he never let go of my hand. Even if he wanted to turn on the lights there was no electricity. No pretense. He kissed me. We embraced for a long while until, without warning, he flopped on the bed, hands clasped behind his head. ”’Tis lovely, the island,” he said. “’Tis grace.” “Disgrace?” I misheard. “Grace, darling, grace.” He pulled me to him, sighing heavily. This was it, I was sure of it, this was my International Man of Mystery and even though I live in Japan and he Ireland, it was VF EBRUARY 2002 meant to be. In a flash I pictured six lovely ginger-haired angel-like children and a little teak cottage in Ireland, complete with a few cows, chickens, roosters and a large happy fat pig. I quickly made a mental inventory; yes, love Ireland, yes, could live there, yes, love theatre, yes, love his lion’s mane of golden ginger red hair. He took my hand and kissed my knuckles. I had a surge of inspiration. I would reinvent myself as a Sophisticated, Cosmopolitan-type lover who clearly has been around the romantic block a time or two. “Have you ever had a Thai massage,” I asked? “Many times,” he replied. “Would you like one now?” I ventured. “Am I to remove me clothes?” he grinned. “No, no, just as you are,” I assured him, perhaps a little too quickly. He began to turn over. “No,” I corrected him. “On your back.” I began to work on him just as I had experienced during a two-hour session in Bangkok. The Thai massage is unlike anything we are used to in the west. It’s all about pressure points and counterbalance, rotating muscles to loosen them in a relaxing manner. I was sure I remembered how it went. Expert like, I bent his left leg at the knee, took firm hold of his left foot and right hand for counterbalance. I began tapping my feet against the inside of his thigh, just as the Thai woman had done to me. “Oh,” he gasped. I pattered my bare feet repeatedly up and down his thigh, assured of my accuracy by the noises that escaped him. Presently, I raised his leg and, heel cupped in my right hand, used my left hand to squeeze his calf muscle, gently at first and then more rapidly. A suppressed giggle escaped his lips. He was ticklish and I found that attractive. I began to rotate his hip in its socket, just as I had learned in Bangkok, FEBRUARY 2002 pushing it in and out and all around in large, circular motions. “Ah!” he grimaced. Setting his leg back down, I kneeled over him, placing the heel of my palm on the edge of his hip, pressing down firmly in small circular motions. My fingers danced around the joint, working their way towards the pelvic bone. The expression on my client’s face had become increasingly comical; mouth open in silent scream, features twisted in pleasure/pain scenario. “My god, woman!” he crooned. Pleased with my technique obtained entirely from memory, I continued to work my way across his body. Interlocking our fingers, I cracked all of his knuckles, one by one, and then all of his toes. “Unh...” he groaned. Somewhere outside, a rooster crowed. As I settled down beside him, he tried to sit up. I pushed him back with a thud. “Not yet,” I assured him. Placing a hand firmly on the center of his chest and tugging on his left hand, I stretched out my legs and began tapping the fleshy part of his underarm with my feet. He groaned and giggled as my toes worked against the underside of his arm and the outside of his torso. I worked my way up to his neck, and gently along the underside AJET Across Japan Feature 21 of his jaw as he writhed and convulsed, occasionally shrieked, no doubt in ecstasy. I pulled on the muscles of his cheek with my big toe, accidentally catching it in his mouth, apologizing and continuing to work my feet around his face and neck. “For the love of Christ!” he screamed, gripping the sheets. I smiled at my handiwork. I repeated the same techniques on his other half and, flipping him over, continued the love play for the better part of an hour. At last I moved around behind him so as to be back to back. Interlocking our arms, I lurched forward, arching his back high above the bed. “Jesus, Mary and Joseph!” he shrilled, his voice catching in his throat. As soon as I heard the crack, I relaxed and settled him down onto the pillow, his breathing heavy. Letting him rest, I went to the window. Outside the sun had begun to rise. I checked my watch. We had a six a.m. breakfast call before departure and I still had to pack. Turning back to the bed I saw that the Celtic Lion was fast asleep, his expression serene and relaxed. Brushing the strands of ginger straw out of his eyes, I kissed his lips, smiled and took my leave. Walking back to my bungalow, a wave of content washed over me. I’ve made my list, made my progress, now I could go back to Japan. Thinking back on the elephants, the Sleeping Lion and islands of adventure, I thought, I’ll be back. Four days later, I signed my contract. That night I slept peacefully. Do you want to begin a homestay program? Are you coordinating a sister city exchange program? Has your office asked you to “tagalong” on a tour in the name of internationalism? Taking Nihonjin to Gaikokuland addresses all of these issues from the proposal to posttrip evaluation... AND it’s partly bilingual! 1000 yen for AJET members 1500 yen for Non-AJET members Can’t wait to buy it? Well, contact the Distribution Manager for details! Danette Sullivan Akeno High School 1481 Akeno, Obata-cho Watari-gun, Mie-ken (0596) 37-4125 fax (0596) 37-4127 danetteinjapan@yahoo.com AJET Across Japan VF EBRUARY 22 Untitled Today we go, to never return For they have taken hope, and make our hearts burn Families have gone, light has faded We fight alone, and in light we have waited The world surrounds and we drift among the waves Until at last, we are trapped amongst our caves There is little left, but still we live We sit in darkness, and thank our Father for all that he does give Our fathers before, were not so lucky They died without, for their lives were sucky Crying among the cliffs and oceans in tears For they knew not why or what had put them here We mourn our loss and live in fear All striving for peace, but looming n the shadows of thought We all know the next Great War is nearly here In every land, monsters of unbridled strength lie When their fury is finally erupted we all will surely die He is watching and knows that when our time has come And our final hour is at hand Then truth will make its final stand And all that is evil will cower and cry For they will know, it is time for them to say goodbye Then all will see who is right and wrong But none of that will matter, for the final choice will be before us And that, that will determine where we stand amongst The dust. Derrick Johnston, Earth Derrick Johnston is currently a Rotary International-sponsored exchange student at Komoro High School in Nagano Prefecture. 2002 FEBRUARY 2002 Special Insert AJET Across Japan AJET Census: What Are We Made Of? AJET thinks that one of the keys to a better JET program is full acceptance and integration of diversity and internationalization. We want to help Contracting Organizations come to the understanding that Diversity isn’t just about race, religion, gender, sexual orientation or nationality issues. It’s the key to developing better awareness, acceptance, and understanding of internationalization. Taking the time to learn more about diversity and to develop a more multicultural/international attitude will be critical, not only now, but also for continuously developing, positive relationships between JETs and Contracting Organizations. The purpose of the AJET Census is to begin the process of understanding all JETs and to target specific negative issues the JET has with regards to his or her acceptance. This survey seeks to understand what JETs think about the issue of diversity and how AJET can better serve the JET community in dealing with it. The key goal of this survey is to enhance understanding and respect for cultural diversity within the JET Programme and Contracting Organizations. So you too can know just “what we are made of,” the surveys will be read and compiled into a report including figures, ideas, experiences and proposed solutions will be compiled and printed in the AAJ. So, please take a moment and represent your community by filling out the AJET Census! Thanks in advance for your participation! 1) Where in Japan are you living? (Circle all that apply.) North South Rural Suburban Central Urban East West 2) What was your motivation for participating on the JET Programme? (Circle as many as apply.) interest in Japanese language and culture interest in teaching money to experience another culture to be a part of the “internationalization” process other ________________________________________________________________________ 3a) Will you be renewing your contract? Yes No Unsure 3b) If you answered No, what led you to this decision? I have reached the limit allowed by the JET Programme My Contracting Organization did not renew me To continue my education or pursue another job I am not satisfied with the JET Programme because ___________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ 4) How would you define “internationalization”? ________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Page 1 AJET Across Japan VF EBRUARY Special Insert 2002 5) How would you define “diversity”? ________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 6) How did you expect your host institution and other Japanese people to treat you? __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 7a) Have you tried to integrate your background into the classroom or other fields of work? Yes No 7b) Were people interested in learning about your background? Very much so Yes Kind of A little bit Not at all 7c) Do you have any suggestions or tips on effective integration of your background into the workplace? ______________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________ 8a) Do you feel that your background has affected your utilization within the workplace? Yes No 8b) If yes, how? ________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________ 9a) Before coming to Japan, how accepting did you feel your community and contracting organization (CO) would be to your background? (i.e. race, religion, sexual orientation, socio-economic status…) Great Good Okay Not so good Poor 9b) How accepting would you rate your community’s and CO’s acceptance of your background now? Great Good Okay Not so good Poor 10) When experiencing cultural misunderstandings to whom do you turn for support? (Circle all that apply.) supervisor fellow JETs Japanese friends community at home Peer Support Group AJET/SIGs/NGs newsletters friends of the same background other ________________________________________________________________________ 11) Do you feel that there is an accessible support network available to you in your area? Yes No 12) How supportive has the JET community been in regards to issues of diversity and/or your background? Great Good Okay Not so good Poor 13) How supportive has your Contracting Organization been in regards to issues of diversity and/or your background? Great Good Okay Not so good Poor Page 2 FEBRUARY 2002 Special Insert AJET Across Japan 25 23 14) What were positive means of support you experienced? ______________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________ 15) Where can support be improved? _______________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________ 16) Do you have any recommendations for AJET in particular? ___________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________ If there is anything we have left out and that you would like to address or you would like to elaborate on any of the above questions, please feel free to contact us via fax, email or telephone at the numbers below. Thanks for taking the time to complete this survey. We appreciate it greatly! Please return this survey by 10 October 2001 to either Ms. Dana Chapnick OR Ms. Kiesha Speech: ajetblock2@yahoo.com ajetblock9@yahoo.com 0242-75-5850 (fax)/ 0242-75-5214 (home) 0957-34-3470 (fax)/0957-34-4505 (home) Page 3 AJET Across Japan o and Tokyo is grounded VF EBRUARY 2002 FEBRUARY 2002 AJET Elections AJET Across Japan AJET Across Japan AJET National Council E L E C T I O N S There are many reasons to join the AJET National Council. If you feel that you can support the JET community with your efforts, or you know of someone who can, PLEASE run for a position. All positions, for next year, are open to candidates. However, many are restricted to certain representative groups. Please think long and hard about the position you are interested in. It is highly encouraged that you contact the current member of the Council that is in that position in order to learn more about it. Positions and General Duties: Chair: Responsible for collecting the consensus of the group and acting on that. Being the spokesperson for AJET. Is also responsible for all activities of AJET and the financial well being of AJET. Preside at meetings. Vice-Chair: Preside on matters concerning AJET and at meetings in the absence of the Chair. Maintain records and files of AJET activities. Oversee and implement AJET activities at conferences and meetings. Election coordinator. National Treasurer: Is the accountant for all AJET financial matters in their entirety. Block Representatives: Each chapter of AJET is part of a Block. There are currently 10 blocks. Block reps are the link between local chapters and the NC. They assist local chapters in interprefectural communication and activities. NOTE: Each block rep will also hold a Liaison position on the NC. Liaison Positions: Corporate Liaison, Educational Liaison, Web Liaison, Nationality/Language Group Liaison, Special Interest Group Liaison, Conference Liaison, Tatami Timeshare Coordinator, Destinations Homepage Coordinator, Peer Support Group Liaison, Operational Procedures Handbook Coordinator, Publications Liaison, Guidebooks Coordinator, JET Alumni Association Liaison, AJET List-serve owner/Chief Moderator. Members of the council, other than Block Reps, can also hold a Liaison position. CIR/SEA Representative: Insure that CIRs and SEAs are represented in AJET. Bring their issues to the NC’s attention and create initiatives to insure their participation in AJET. To keep in direct contact with the CIR Network and to convey information both directions through this connection. Database Administrator: To oversee all database activities. To insure accuracy of and dissemination of database information to designated parties in AJET. AJET Across Japan 28 AJET Elections VF EBRUARY 2002 AJET Across Japan Copy Editor (Editor in Chief): Is the overall person in charge of the AAJ team. They will collect, coordinate and create copy for the National newsletter’s electronic and paper versions. AAJ Web Design Editor: Will receive all material for the Newsletter from the Copy Editor to then create and maintain the online version of AAJ. Will also create the downloadable and paper versions from this same web page. AAJ Advertising and Distribution Editor: Will coordinate, recruit, design advertising for the AAJ. Will also be the coordinator for distribution of the AAJ’s electronic and paper versions. Webmaster: Helps to maintain the National AJET web page. Coordinates with our web page host regarding our website. Problem solves member’s issues with the use of the page. Monitors all Electronic links to AJET and insures they are updated. This role is not a central Council member, thus they are not required to attend all conferences, but are expected to be aware of AJET issues. Database knowledge is also a plus. Interpreter: Helps provide interpreter services to the NC at twice yearly meetings with the Ministries. This person is NOT the required to be the “Official Translator of documents” but assists in the presentation of issues at these meetings. This role is not a central Council member, thus they are not required to attend all conferences, but are expected to be aware of AJET issues and roles with the ministries. This will assist in the understanding of communications and reports at meetings. Executive board members (Chair, Vice-Chair and Treasurer): Please submit one (1) full A-4 page with the reasons you would be the best to fill these positions. Include any past leadership and current roles in AJET. Please include info on your leadership style and some preliminary goals for the next year. Block Representatives: Representatives Please submit one-half (1/2) A-4 page with the reasons you would be the best to fill this position. Include any past leadership and current roles in AJET. Appointed positions: positions Please provide one-half (1/2) to one (1) full A-4 page to the National Council for internal review and appointment. Please provide information on qualifications in the specific area that you are applying. AAJ Editors should also provide a copy of their work from past publications or a writing sample. Interpreter should give a clear indication of Japanese language skills. A few more NOTES : · You do not have to be a current AJET member to run, but are expected to join once elected. However, you must be a JET participant in the 2002-2003 contract year to run. · Any JET can run for a position in their area. CIR/SEA Reps must be a CIR or SEA (But CIR/SEAs are welcome to run for other positions too). Block reps must live in the block they represent. · Potential candidates cannot send platforms to the National List-serve. They can FEBRUARY 2002 AJET Elections AJET Across Japan 29 campaign via other means (approved by the Election Chair), but the Election committee will post the platforms to both the National List-serve and the AAJ. · All candidates are encouraged to contact the current person holding any position they are interested in. · Candidates can run for only one position. · Japanese language skills are not required for the NC. But all will be responsible for getting their own reports translated. · ALL PLATFORMS should be accompanied with contact information. · ALL PLATFORMS should be in size 12 and Times New Roman font. · All potential candidates should apply to be both Kobe RC and Tokyo OA helpers. The deadline for platforms to be post marked or emailed is February 1st, 2002. The National Council is not responsible for lost or Schedule for Elections: misdirected platforms. Platforms Due Voting starts Voting closed Results published Feb 1st March 1st April 1st April 9th For further information, contact info for current members or questions, please contact the AJET Vicechair, J.D. Sparks at AJETVC@yahoo.com or 049284-8333. E.S.I.D. by Earth Bennett More? www.angelfire.com/comics/esid”. United Nations panel to petition ban on Vocoders AJET Across Japan Mark Flanigan Nagasaki EBRUARY 2002 Table ofVFContents From the Editor 2 New York— The United Nations took a bold move on the world stage today, unveiling an unprecedented new proposal in the area of human rights. This proposal, expected to gain widespread support, calls for an immediate worldwide ban on vocoders. After her opening remarks, Mary Robinson, UN Commissioner for Human Rights, spoke candidly about her own desire to see vocoders eliminated from the face of the earth. “For too long, vocoders have acted with impunity on an unsuspecting public, while we as a body have stood by silently. Callous, jaded music producers have used such mind-numbing tools to have their way long enough. Today is a new day to defend freedom.” Following Robinson, a panel of scholars, activists, performers and esteemed Nobel laureates weighed in on this tragic assault on decency. They spoke out about the inevitable consequences of governmental inaction against the spread of vocoders across the music world. Vlad Dvorczik, an Armenian refugee, testified how his fledgling career as a wedding singer was tragically cut short by the unchecked spread of vocoders in the world music scene. “I trained for years in classical opera,” stammered Dvorczik, choking back angry tears, “and all they want to hear is that damned, infernal machine!” Kofi Annan, UN Secretary General, closed the proceedings with an impassioned keynote speech. He spoke eloquently about the moral responsibility of the civilized world to take action, stating…”When Cher sang ‘Believe’, we stood by and said nothing…now Daft Punk has brazenly released ‘One More Time’, a pop song done entirely with vocoder. Where will it end? If we don’t stand up for freedom and real music now, the critics of tomorrow will judge our cowardice harshly, and justly so.” AJET4thAnnualCharityBikeRide This bike ride is for the benefit of charity 100%. We would like the effort put into the riding matched by equal passion on the side of those supporting us. Please help us make a substantial contribution to Habitat For Humanity and also to the Japan Red Cross. please e-mail Andrew Court at tazpine@yahoo.com or call him at 097-534-0200. Letter to the Editor 2-3 The Voice 4 The Beat 5 Nozawa Onsen Fire Festival 5-6 Studying Japanese 7-8 Whales 9-12 Staying Warm 13 Feature: Short Story 14-21 Poetry 22 “AJET Census” 23-25 Election 27-29 E.S.I.D. 29 Yoke 30