Dermascope Magazine

74
DERMASCOPE | February 2011
Beautiful Skin
Begins Within
by Paula Simpson, B.A.Sc. (Nutrition) RNCP
and Shirley Madhère, M.D.
A
ging is an ongoing process that generally begins
at around age 30. A number of factors contribute
to aging, both intrinsic factors that cannot be
controlled, and extrinsic factors that can be modified.
Factors such as smoking, prolonged and unprotected sun
exposure, poor diet, improper hygiene, inattention to
skin care, and stress can accelerate aging. Genetics and
hormonal changes also play a role. Ultimately, with aging,
there is a loss of natural oils, hydration, elasticity, fat,
and collagen in skin, leading to dry, sagging skin without
volume. It is not possible to stop the aging process;
however, it can be delayed.
February 2011 | DERMASCOPE
75
In a youth-obsessed and image-conscious society, it is becoming increasingly important to look as good as one feels, or at least to portray that one
looks well, even in the presence of illness. This point underscores the idea
that beauty comes from within, and that the best approach to feeling great
and looking better is one that addresses the internal foundation upon which
the external visage is based. This is one of the primary reasons why a holistic
approach to wellness and age management is essential. This philosophy helps
to improve the end result which is enhanced when a number of complementary steps are taken, such as proper nutrition, appropriate skin care, and
regular exercise. Notwithstanding, with the plethora of role models and public
personas from the sports, entertainment, fashion, and beauty industries displaying youthful features, it is no surprise that women and men of all ages are
becoming increasingly aware of the merits or benefits of looking fabulous at
any age. Attraction to beauty is
global, no matter how beauty is
defined. Everyone wants to feel
Visible skin aging begins around
attractive and therefore, beautiful.
30 years of age. The aging process
There is no judgment that can be
affects skins structure, function, and
placed on that. It is not superficial
appearance. These may include:
or vain; it is reality, and this reality
• Decreased capillary circulation
has economic, psychological, and
• Epidermal thinning
social ripple effects in numerous
• Sluggish cellular turnover
cultures, whether they are recog• Decreasing collagen and
nized or not.
elastin fibers
Attractiveness implies health.
• Abnormal water
The investment in “looking good”
binding (hydration)
may be protected to a certain
• Decreased lipid content
extent with proper skin care,
• Facial bone loss
adequate exercise, stress reduction, and appropriate nutrition.
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DERMASCOPE | February 2011
Depending upon the age, some of these
factors may require more or less attention and modification. Although aging
is generally stated to begin by age 30,
early signs of facial aging may occur
in the 20s. These signs may become
prematurely prominent in the setting
of smoking; prolonged, unprotected
ultraviolet light exposure; and improper
diet. Typically, however, wrinkling and
dry or irritated skin marked by dyspigmentation are usually a result of sun
damage. In the 30s, fine wrinkles may
appear around the eyes, and dynamic
rhytids, or wrinkles that are caused
by facial muscle action, may begin to
appear around the eyes, between the
eyebrows and at the forehead. In addition, the overall lines of the face may
begin to slope downward. “Excess” or
loose skin may become evident on the
upper eyelids, and the nasolabial folds
or “laugh lines” may deepen. Volume
loss may start to occur at the malar or
cheek area. The fourth decade brings
loss of elasticity and cohesiveness of
the tissue planes, leading to sagging
skin. Sun damage and other environmental effects compounded over the
years may add dyschromias and other
pigmentation issues. The cheeks experience further loss of volume, resulting
in flattening and loss of youthful facial
contours. The texture of the skin may be
rough and dry, due to loss of hyaluronic
acid and natural skin oils. Hair loss may
also begin to be an issue in the 40s,
with temporal thinning typical of an
aging scalp. In the 50s, the downward
vector of facial aging continues, with
the corners of the eye sloping vertically
and laterally. The nasal tip may droop,
and the lips may be marked by thinness as well as wrinkling at the upper
and lower lips. Wrinkles may appear
deeper, the skin thinner, and hair grey
finer. In the sixth and seventh decades
onward, these changes become more
pronounced, as the degenerative process of aging takes its toll on various
soft tissues of the face and body.
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February 2011 | DERMASCOPE
77
“If You Feel Well, You Will Look Well”
The skin is the largest, all embracing organ of our body.
Internally, it protects all biochemical and physiological functions, while externally it is the barrier against chemical and
mechanical insults. The skin is also the “organ of appeal” and
is the first image that others see of us. If the skin is healthy
and vibrant, this is a good reflection of one’s total health and
well-being. Although the skin appears smooth and delicate, it
is actually a complicated organ with many grooves, layers, and
biochemical functions that work synergistically to renew and
repair itself. As we age, the physiochemical homeostasis of
the skin becomes compromised, leaving it more susceptible
to intrinsic and extrinsic stressors that ultimately degrade its
structure and function. Extrinsic stressors can have a profound
impact on accelerated skin aging. Environmental insults
contribute to the generation of free radicals that stimulate
the inflammatory process in the skin. UV rays have the most
dramatic effect on skin aging as it initiates a complex series
of biochemical reactions in human skin. Furthermore, UV
causes depletion of cellular antioxidants and antioxidant
enzymes (SOD, catalase), initiates DNA damage, suppresses
the immune system, and causes increased synthesis and
release of pro-inflammatory mediators from skin cells. Over-
time, these effects degrade skin’s structure and homeostasis,
ultimately leading to permanently damaged skin cells.
As skin is the “visual” organ, the beauty industry’s primary
objective is to delay the skin aging process with sophisticated
topical interventions to combat the degradative mechanisms.
However, a critical, and often ignored component (in North
America) to support the health and beauty of skin is nutrition.
Diet plays an important role in many skin disorders, and
skin health professionals are frequently faced with the difficulty
of separating myth from fact when it comes to dietary advice
for their clients. Due to the incredible nutrient demands the
skin places on the body, it is hard to ignore the role of nutrition and its potential impact on skin health. Further, a growing
body of clinical studies show the typical North American diet
challenges us to obtain those nutrients most pertinent to skin
health and, in fact, may aggravate the skin condition. Based
upon current data, the following dietary guidelines for skin
should be considered:
Low Glycemic Diet – Epidemiologic studies suggest that
dietary factors such as Glycemic Load, may be involved in
stimulating insulin resistance and inflammatory skin conditions
(such as acne). The glycemic index measures how rapidly dif-
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ferent foods make your blood sugar rise, such as simple carbohydrates that are quickly absorbed into the blood stream
over stimulating insulin production and may eventually lead
to insulin resistance. Following a high glycemic and processed diet has recently been linked to triggering a chronic
inflammatory response within the skin/body. Insulin resistance
and inflammation are proposed to offset sebum production,
malformation in collagen and excite the epidermal growth
factor receptor, triggering inflammatory skin conditions such
as adult acne.
Up Your Ratio of Omega 3 Rich Foods – Those diets higher
in omega 3s (such as the Mediterranean diet), have fewer
chronic skin conditions such as psoriasis. Omega 3s naturally
lubricate the skin and hair and also help to reduce redness
and inflammation in the skin.
Seek Out Antioxidant Rich Foods More Often – As discussed, the free radical theory of aging proposes that as we
get older and are continually exposed to stressors, our bodies become less efficient in neutralizing harmful free radicals
that may permanently damage healthy cells (including skin
cells). For some time, nutrition experts have recommended
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choosing foods that are “nutrient/antioxidant dense” over
foods with little health protective benefits. This is also true for
skin health. Clinical studies have shown that catechins from
green tea, anthocyanins from berries and red cabbage, bioflavonoids from citrus, carotenoids such as lycopene and lutein
from tomatoes, reservratrol from red wine, and genistein from
soy offer potent secondary antioxidants that protect the skin
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cells from free radical damage. By including these types of
foods more often in the diet, studies have shown that their
additional antioxidant protection is significant, particularly
with regards to photo protection. The downfall of this is that
they are quickly neutralized and therefore must be regularly
consumed to offer these protective health benefits.
SuperFoods/Cleansing Programs – Concentrated greens,
such as wheatgrass; juicing programs; and sophisticated
nutraceutical formulations are quickly gaining popularity
to help manage skin health and wellness. The philosophy
of cleansing programs is to “super charge” the body with
nutrients that support the key eliminative pathways (liver,
digestion, lungs, kidneys, and skin), all while giving the
body a rest from traditionally hard to digest foods and
toxins found in our diet. By incorporating a nutritionally
balanced cleansing program, this may help to remove toxicities that build up within our system (including the skin),
over time. Cleansing programs may help to minimize skin
irritation while supporting the healthy functioning of the
key eliminative pathways and re-energizing our bodies.
Nutritional Supplementation (a.k.a Nutricosmetics) –
Although proper nutrition and a balanced eating plan is a
starting point for optimal health, oral supplements offer the
right nutrients for healthier skin (to get this amount of nutrients from diet alone can be very difficult to attain on a daily
basis). These products generally contain vitamins, minerals,
botanical extracts, and antioxidants in their composition
that have an effect on overall skin health and beauty.
Aging is an inevitable process. It cannot be stopped,
our bodies are temporary and are on borrowed time. Nevertheless, aging may proceed gracefully and graciously,
given that there are numerous options for health, wellness,
and therefore, beauty.
Paula Simpson is the co-founder and one of
Advancing your education
has
as never been easie
easier
the formulators behind the GliSODin Skin
Nutrients Nutricosmetic Line. She is also a
contributing editor to many of the leading
medical aesthetic and beauty publications in
North America. www.glisodinskin.com.
Dr. Shirley Madhère is a plastic surgeon in private practice in New York City. For additional
information about her philosophy of “Holistic
Plastic Surgery” or her work, please visit
www.thenewaesthete.com or
www.drshirleymadhère.com.
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DERMASCOPE | February 2011