The city of festivals in Your Hands
Transcription
The city of festivals in Your Hands
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Lviv ”In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times Spring 2012 The city of festivals Spring events schedule In Your Hands Updated, the only comprehensive guide to all Lviv eateries, clubs, sights and much more №9 www.inyourpocket.com 9 772076 230506 Lviv, 27 Svobody Ave. Open 10 a.m. – 9 p.m. ZILLI Lviv, 27 Svobody Ave., -1st floor Open 9 a.m. – 12 p.m. www.operapassage.com Contents 3 E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Contents The Basics 6 Arriving, Money and more Culture 10 Galleries, cinemas, culture centres Where to stay 14 A fine selection of places to spent the night Dining & Nightlife Mickiewicza square Getting around Planes, trains & car rental48 Mail & Phones50 Shopping Lifestyle directory Restaurants22 Cafés34 Nightlife37 Bars, pubs and clubs Lifestyle, Health & Sports What to see Maps Essential Lviv 42 Museums45 Underground Lviv 47 lviv.inyourpocket.com 51 Where to go shopping in Lviv 52 Business directory 53 Banks, Lawyers, Foreign representatives Old town map 55 City map 56 Index59 Spring 2012 4 Foreword Welcome to a city of unique old-world charm; the scene of an accident where East broadsided West, but left only a dent. With its remarkably preserved Renaissance architecture, gently bending streets and hidden ancient niches, Lviv is a Ukrainian city with a European soul. Known as the centre of Ukrainian art and culture, the city boasts many of the country’s brightest and best museums, art galleries and theatres. It is also Ukraine’s Mecca - there are magnificent and inspiring churches and cathedrals on just about every corner. Although Lvivians have the reputation as church-goers, they haven’t forgotten how to party. Pubs, clubs, restaurants and coffee houses are plentiful, and it’s usually a local who’s stoking the celebration into the early morning hours. Lviv has had an enthralling and violent history. Founded by King Danylo of Galicia in honour of his son Lev in 1256, the city has had many rulers including Poland, Sweden, the Austrian-Hungarian Empire, Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union. The dubious Hitler–Stalin Pact of 1939 granted control of Lviv to the Soviet Union. This occupation spurred numerous resistance movements in the 1940s and 50s including the much celebrated and controversial Ukrainian Insurgent Army. With the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, freedom was finally seized. Lviv continues to be a shining example of independence, and Ukraine owes much of its contemporary identity to the stream of patriotism which emanates from this radical western gem. This Spring marks the final countdown the Euro 2012 football competition for Ukraine and its co-host, Poland. As one of Ukraine’s host cities, Lviv anxiously awaits the excited, joyous surge expected to fill the city. New hotels have opened their doors, a completely new stadium has been built along with a totally renovated airport scheduled to open in April 2012. It really took a miracle for the city to preserve its unique atmosphere and at the same time make such fascinating changes. We at In Your Pocket have been happy to see these changes through last 3 years and we will do our best to give our readers the most essential and comprehensive information in the future. Vitayemo u Lvovi! Welcome to Lviv! E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Publisher Neolitas-KIS Ltd. Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, 25, Kyiv 04080 Ukraine, tel./fax (+380) 44 467 78 20 kyiv@inyourpocket.com Registration No. KB 14928-3900P © Neolitas-KIS Company Office & Accounts PROMOVSKI Doroshenka 8, Lviv 79001, Ukraine tel./fax: (+380) 32 272 56 67 (+380) 67 672 44 97 Printed by Express-Poligraph, Kyiv Published 4 times per year. 60,000 copies annualy. Lviv In Your Pocket The World of In Your Pocket Northern Ireland Estonia Russia Latvia Ireland Lithuania Belarus Netherlands Poland Germany Czech Republic Ukraine Austria Switzerland Slovenia Romania Croatia Italy Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo Albania FYR Macedonia Greece It was a busy 2011 for In Your Pocket, with new guides published in Bulgaria (Veliko Turnovo), Netherlands (Tilburg, Utrecht, Amsterdam and Sittard-Geleen), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Switzerland (Zurich), Slovenia (Posavje) and in Belarus (Minsk); 2012 promises to deliver many more new Pockets, including our first guides in Italy (Cagliari) and Belgium (Ghent). The number of cities we cover has now climbed past 75, and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. To keep up to date, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare.com/inyourpocket). Editorial Copyright notice Editors & Writers Mike Voehringher, Natasha Martisova Research Yuliya Kanyuka Layout & Design Natasha Martisova, KIS Ltd. Photos © Lviv In Your Pocket Cover photo by Serhiy Horobets Text and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS 2003-2012. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Sales & Circulation General Manager Andriy Chernyavsky Sales & Circulation Kyiv Natasha Martisova Lviv Julia Kaniuka, Olena Patyka Odesa Liubov Rogatinska Maps © DNVP Kartographia, 2012 © Lviv In Your Pocket, 2012 Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers’ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. lviv.inyourpocket.com Arriving By bus All international buses arrive at Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal; however, some buses, including routes from Warsaw and Krakow, may make a first stop in centre not far from Shevchenka prosp. Ask your driver to be sure. At the bus station, ticket offices and schedules are located on the ground floor. Upstairs you’ll find a waiting hall, a small hotel and a cafeteria. To find the left-luggage office, head downstairs from the central hall. Getting to town Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal is located relatively far from the city centre. Taxis are your obvious quickest option; depending on your haggling skills, fares are available for as little as 50Hr. For an unbelievable value, take trolleybus No. 5 to Shota Rustaveli Street (I-4) for the meagre fare of 1,25Hr. Though it may be cramped, marshrutkas No. 3A, 9, 25 shuttle passengers to centre for 2Hr. Bus No. 18 connects Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal with Lviv Holovnyi Train Station. Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal Stryis’ka 109, tel. (+380) 32 294 98 17. QOpen 24Hrs. By car When entering the country by car, foreigners are required to sign a document at the border swearing that they will bring the car out of the country before a certain date. Foreign cars are allowed on Ukrainian soil for a maximum of two months. This document should be carried along with your driver’s license and your car’s registration papers at all times. Automobile insurance is obligatory in Ukraine. It may be possible to buy green card insurance valid for Ukraine in your home country to avoid problems - if not you must purchase it from the Ukrainian company at the border. The latter might cost less than the former, however if you don’t speak Ukrainian or Russian it is easy to get deceived by border officials and buy something which is totally useless. The minimum term of insurance is two weeks, with prices depending on the size of the engine. By plane When travellers referred to the Lviv International Airport it was usually in the context of either a twisted joke or a terrifying tale. Time changes; and in April 2012 Lviv will get the newly renovated Terminal. At the time of this issue going to print there were no much to tell about the new airport facilities, but we promise to make a full review of the newly opened ‘Lviv’ gateway’ in our Summer 2012 issue. Getting to town Follow the heard of fellow travellers through the terminal corridors to the waiting gauntlet of cabbies. The 70Hr fare to centre is relatively cheap for Ukraine, but the real bargain is by trolleybus 9 (1,25Hr) or marshrutka 48 (2Hr). It’s about 20 minutes by taxi and 40 by trolleybus/marshrutka on one of Ukraine’s bumpiest roads. Lviv International Airport Lubyns’ka 168, tel. (+380) 32 229 81 12, www.airport.lviv.ua. Lost & Found tel. (+380) 32 229 83 19. Tourist Information Tourist information centre Tourist Information Centre C-3, Ploscha Rynok 1, tel./fax (+380) 32 254 60 79, www.touristinfo. lviv.ua, tic@city-adm.lviv. ua. Information centre provides information in English, German, Italian, Czech, Polish, Ukrainian and Russian. Services: city information, guidebooks, travel maps, magazines. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. lviv.inyourpocket.com By train With platforms wrapped in lofty steel awnings, run down trains and suspicious glances, arriving to Lviv’s central rail station can be like stepping into a Cold War era spy movie. Once the nostalgia has worn off, exit the platforms by proceeding down the stairs then follow the exit signs to the station’s halls. A currency exchange (обмін валют), ticketing booths (каса) and schedules are located in the main hall. There is also a floor plan displayed of available services if you happen to get disoriented. Purchase international tickets from booth No. 2. (Quiet please, the street dogs huddled in the corner are trying to sleep.) A restaurant (open 11:00 - 23:00), Express Bank with Western Union, telephones and resting hall (зал) No. 1 are located in the left wing. Admission to hall No. 1 is 3Hr per hour and the Internet can be accessed for 6Hr. A café and ATM are also on site. Additional ATMs, a kiosk selling snacks and beverages and a bar are located in the corridor connecting the left wing to the main hall. The bulk of station’s services are located in the right wing. Entering from the main hall you’ll find a barber shop, an agency offering excursion services and resting hall No. 2. This hall has two cafés, newspaper stands and a pharmacy. Entrance is free of charge. Proceed through the corridor past hall No. 2 for a currency exchange and a news stand that sells maps of Lviv. There are three left luggage (Камера зберігання) areas/lockers available in the right wing. No. 1 is the largest and is the only post that handles bags of all sizes. Depending on the size of your bag, expect to pay from 5-20Hr per day. Police services are also located in the right wing. Toilets are scattered throughout the building. The easiest to find are located in the corridors leading to the platforms. Getting to town Getting from the station to centre is relatively easy. Taxis are abundant near the main exit. A gauntlet of taxi drivers await at the exit of the main hall. A trip to centre should cost around 40Hr and Lviv’s cabbies are much friendlier and less scheming than those in other major Ukrainian cities. The parking lot beyond the cabbies is bustling with buses and mini-buses, most of which connect to outlaying cities, towns and villages. Your best public transport option is tram No. 1, which heads directly to centre. The same tram with a different name, No. 9, takes passengers in the opposite direction from centre to the train station. Lviv Holovnyi Train Station F-6, Dvirtseva pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 748 20 68. Spring 2012 5 6 Basics Lviv, Lvov, Lwów Borders Throughout its history, Lviv has had several names. The city was known as Lwów when the Poles ruled, the Austro-Hungarian Empire called it Lemberg and Jewish residents referred to it as Lemberik. Currently, many languages have their own spelling and pronunciation. This is the case with ‘Lviv’ (Ukrainian) and ‘Lvov’ (Russian). As the city immerged to become the centre of Ukrainian language and culture in the 1990s, the Ukrainian version became increasingly common and useful, i.e. using ‘Lviv’ while searching the Internet will definitely result in more hits. Customs Basic data Lviv Population: 761 929 Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 88.1%, Russian 8.9%, Polish 0.9%, Belarusian 0.4%, Jewish 0.3%, Armenian 0.1%, other 1.3%. Ukraine Population: 45 633 600 (1 January 2012). Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 77.8%, Russian 17.3%, Belarusian 0.6%, Moldovan 0.5%, Crimean Tatar 0.5%, Bulgarian 0.4%, Hungarian 0.3%, Romanian 0.3%, Polish 0.3%, Jewish 0.2%, other 1.8%. Territory: 603,700km2 (the second largest in Europe, slightly smaller than Texas), mostly consisting of fertile steppes (plains) and plateaus. The only mountain chains are the Carpathians in the west and the Crimean Mountains in the extreme south. Borders: Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov Seas) 2,782km, Hungary 103km, Moldova 939km, Poland 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west) 362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97km. Rivers: Dnipro (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Buh, Danube. Highest point: Mount Hoverla 2,061m. Local time: All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European Time zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring countries Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is 12:00 in Kyiv, it is 13:00 in Moscow, 11:00 in Paris and Warsaw, 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York. Lviv In Your Pocket Ukraine is bordered by Belarus, Hungary, Moldova, Poland, Romania, Russia and Slovakia. Buses stop for about an hour at borders; westbound trains for more than two, because Ukrainian wheels don’t fit European tracks and thus have to be switched! You should expect close inspection of your documents and belongings at border crossings. EU and American travellers need a visa to enter Belarus, Moldova and Russia and can’t be obtained at the border, so make sure you contact their embassies in Odesa (see Directory/Foreign representatives). If you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of customs duties and taxes, one litre of hard alcohol, two litres of wine, 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco. Personal belongings are not subject to customs duties or taxes, though a customs officer has the right to ask you to make a written declaration in relation to them. (Avoid bringing unessential, valuable, personal items! A colleague of ours was told by a customs officer to declare her wedding band. She declared the value of the ring, and - to make a long story short - she ended up paying a $200 bribe in order to avoid an outrageous duty.) A person can bring in food products free of customs duties and taxes if their total value does not exceed €50. However, food products should not total more than two kilograms, and there should not be more than one package of the same product. Goods with a total value of less than €200 may be brought in free of customs duties and taxes. If the value of your goods is greater than €200, but less than €1000 they will need to be declared on a customs personal declaration form. If the value of the goods is greater than €1000, the goods will be subject to clearance in accordance with the import declaration requirements for imported cargo. Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject to any international alert and you have documents which prove your right of ownership. To take such goods out of Ukraine you will need to obtain relevant authorisation documents from the State Service for Control Over the Passage of Cultural Values Across the National Frontier of Ukraine (J-3, Smol’s’koho 10, tel. (+380) 322 75 80 81/72 79 91.) All customs declarations, filled out upon arrival to Ukraine, must be kept throughout the period of your stay, and must be handed over upon departure. This declaration can not be renewed if lost. Disabled travellers Lviv is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High curb drops and steep steps are the rule and public transport system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair symbol used in this guide means that the establishment in question specifically caters to disabled guests. lviv.inyourpocket.com Basics Electricity Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner Russian sockets are being replaced by their European cousins. Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap adapter for their European appliances. Adapters for more foreign electrical societies are not easy to find in Lviv, so bring your own. Language Floors The following is a list of some of the most common words and phrases a person is likely to need. Hello Вітаю (vi-TA-yu) Goodbye До побачення (do po-BA-chennia) Please Будь ласка (bud’ LAS-ka) You’re welcome Прошу(PRO-shu) Thank you Дякую (DIA-kuyu) Excuse me Вибачте (VY-bachte) Yes Так (tak) No Ні (ni) Enjoy your meal Смачного (Smach-NO-ho) Cheers! Будьмо (BUD’-mo) I don’t understand Я не розумію (Ya ne rozu-MI-yu) I don’t know Я не знаю (Ya ne ZNA-yu) Help! Допоможіть (dopomo-ZHIT’) Hospital Лікарня (li-KAR-nia) Ambulance Швидка (shvyd-KA) Where is…? Де знаходиться...? (de zna-KHO-dytsia) Right, left Право, ліво (PRA-vo, LI-vo) Do you speak English?Ви розмовляєте англійською? (Vy roz-mov-LYA-yete an-GLIY-s’koyu) Ukrainians consider the floor on the ground to be the first floor and so one. Money The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Don’t be confused if your amount is given in roubles. You haven’t been transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR - some people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnias. Another word to the wise: two versions exist of the 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnia bills, and both are accepted everywhere. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. You’ll have no problem finding currency exchange points, but rates are better from central street kiosks. If it’s traveller’s checks you need to cash, look for a big respectable-looking bank. You can find a number of ATMs around Lviv and many hotels and restaurants now take Visa and MasterCard - American Express is not very popular. There have been scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale restaurants, though, so you may want to think twice before charging it. Roads Carry your license and registration at all times to fully enjoy the Ukrainian driving experience. The official speed limits are 60 km/h in cities, 90 on secondary roads and 130 on highways. A zero tolerance drink driving policy applies in Ukraine. Safety They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre away. This fact alone will not automatically make you the target of crime. Lviv is, in fact, a rather safe place. As in most cities, flashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are known to disappear in public transport crowds, so guard your pockets at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street is always a good way to attract unwanted attention, especially from the police. By the way, it’s a good idea for foreigners to carry at least a copy of their passport and visa with them at all times. lviv.inyourpocket.com The country’s official language is Ukrainian. Since independence in 1991, it has become much more popular and widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Crimea and Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions is Ukrainian truly predominant. Days of the week Monday Понеділок Tuesday Вівторок Wednesday Середа Thursday Четвер Friday П’ятниця Saturday Субота Sunday Неділя Numbers 1 один 2 два 3 три 4 чотири 5 п’ять 6 шість (o-DYN) (dva) (try) (cho-TY-ry) (pyat’) (shist’) (pone-DI-lok) (viv-TO-rok) (sere-DA) (chet-VER) (PYAT-nytsia) (su-BO-ta) (ne-DI-lia) 7 сім (sim) 8 вісім (VI-sim) 9 дев’ять (DE-vyat’) 10 десять (DE-syat’) 100 сто (sto) 1000 тисяча (TY-sya-cha) Spring 2012 7 8 Basics National holidays 2012 January 1 January 7 March 8 April 15 April 16 May 1-2 May 9 June 3 June 28 August 24 New Year Orthodox Christmas Women’s Day Easter Sunday Easter Monday A day off for the workers Victory Day Trinity Constitution Day Independence Day Alcohol Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol content is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign brands can find their favourites at finer shops and establishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of vodka, which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. Beware if offered homemade vodka (samohon). While good samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall odds are against you and your stomach. Whether it’s Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at some point. A modest ’cheers’ (bud’mo) will do for a foreigner. Smoking You’re never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, and in some bars and clubs the term second-hand smoke just doesn’t seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a ridiculously cheap selection of cigarettes hawked by one of the many babushkas and corner kiosks that are located throughout the city. Just recently Ukraine outlawed smoking in most public places and the workplace, except in specially designated areas. It is the responsibility of each company to provide a designated area for all smoking patrons or personnel. These special places can not exceed 50% of the total allotted area of the business. Since this law is relatively new in Ukraine, not every business has begun to enforce it. Toilets or Ж = ladies or М or Ч = gentlemen Public restrooms are a sore, dirty and not very aromatic subject in Lviv. Make it a rule to go before you leave the hotel and after each café/restaurant you visit and you should be fine; pay toilets are in short supply in centre. If you think you can just pop in to McDonalds and take care of business, think again. You must first place an order then open the bathroom door by punching in the code located on the receipt. Good luck. Street smarts Street вулиця (vul.) (VU-lytsia) Square площа (pl.) (PLO-scha) Avenue проспект (prosp.) (pro-SPEKT) Boulevard бульвар (bul’v.) (bul’-VAR) Bridge міст (mist) Embankment набережна (nab.) (NA-berezhna) Highway шосе (shose) (sho-SE) Lane провулок (prov.)(pro-VU-lok) Descent узвіз (uzviz) (uz-VIZ) Lviv In Your Pocket Tipping Lviv tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their bill. But your waitstaff will expect more from you as a foreigner! Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per cent, so read the fine print or ask. Visas Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra, Vatican, Iceland, Monaco, Norway, San Marino, Georgia, Mongolia, the U.S., Canada, Japan and the countries of the Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) - except Turkmenistan - can enter Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Everyone else needs a visa, which must be obtained from a Ukrainian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling. Visas can be processed in as little as one day, with prices varying depending on the type and length of visa requested. Many Ukrainian embassies only handle visa cases on certain days of the week, so call ahead. Travel to Russia is not so simple. All foreign visitors, with the exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, must obtain a visa. Upon arrival, you will need to fill in an immigration card. If you are staying more that 72 hours, you will need to register with the local police (hotels are usually willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. For additional information, call (+380) 32 275 24 63. Travel to Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU, Andorra, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Croatia can apply for 30-day single and multiple entry business and private visas without an invitation. The rest of us need an invitation, or we can book through a travel agency authorized to issue state travel vouchers. All visitors are required to purchase national medical insurance, and must register their passports with local police within three days of their arrival (hotels are usually willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. For more information, call (+380) 322 37 27 30. Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the U.S. can enter Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all other visitors, visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate or at the Chisinau airport by presenting an application form and photos. All visitors planning to stay more than 90 days need an invitation and visa. For more information, call (+380) 44 280 77 21. Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the U.S., Japan, Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American countries can enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Citizens of countries not on the list can obtain a visa at the Romanian consulate in Kyiv. For more information, call (+380) 44 234 00 40. Poland, Hungary and Slovakia belong to the European Schengen zone. Citizens of Canada, Mexico, the U.S., Israel, Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Singapore may enter without a visa; however, the amount of time you are allowed to stay varies from country to country. All others must apply for a visa at the consulate of destination country. For more information call the following consulates: Polish (+380) 322 97 08 61, Hungarian (+380) 322 64 58 22, Slovakian The Lviv telephone code is +380 32 lviv.inyourpocket.com Basics Market values Ukraine’s political framework How do costs compare to back home? Here’s a handy list of local prices to give you an idea. McDonald’s Big Mac 18,00Hr€1,68 $2,25 Loaf of white bread 3,25Hr€0,30$0,40 Snickers bar 6,00Hr€0,56 $0,75 Litre of vodka 50,00Hr€4,67 $6,26 Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 5,00Hr€0,46 $0,62 20 Marlboros 13,50Hr €1,26 $1,69 Public transport ticket 1,25Hr €0,11 $0,16 1 litre of petrol (euro 3) 10,50Hr €0,98 $1,31 Official exchange rates (as of February 28): €1 – 10.71Hr US$1 – 7.98Hr £1 – 12.62Hr Current exchange rates are available at lviv.inyourpocket.com consulate in Kyiv (+380) 44 234 06 06. For a complete listing of consulates locations and phone numbers in Lviv see Business directory/Foreign representations. In many cases, the consular section is responsible for issuing visas and is located apart from the embassy - save yourself time and confusion by calling before you go. (Most of embassy located in Kyiv. For complete listing visit kyiv. inyourpocket.com). Working in Ukraine For most of the past decade, many foreigners took advantage of Ukraine’s relaxed regulations and didn’t bother getting work permits or even visas. Times have definitely changed, and stricter requirements and regulations have forced many of us to play by the rules. Many companies continue to pay in cash under the table, but will offer assistance obtaining extended visas. If you’re planning to work in Ukraine for a long or indefinite period, it may be beneficial to obtain either permanent or temporary residency. For permanent residency you must be sponsored by a relative with Ukrainian citizenship or prove Ukrainian heritage - this can be done by providing the Office of Passport Registration and Immigration (VVIR) with the birth certificate of a parent or grandparent born in Ukraine and documents proving relation, i.e. your birth certificate, parent’s birth certificate, marriage licence showing change of name, etc. Though often complicated and time consuming, local and multinational companies can procure temporary residency for foreign personnel. No matter what category you fall into, plan on big hassles and a lot of time spent at VVIR, the Housing Bureau (ZhEK) and the police station. Climate 100 20 75 10 50 0 25 -10 -20 Rainfall, mm Temperature, °C 30 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec lviv.inyourpocket.com 0 To understand Ukrainian politics, imagine a carnival complete with clowns, freaks and a main attraction where magicians make billions of hryvnias disappear from taxpayers’ pockets. That said, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty. Ukraine is a republic consisting of 24 provinces (oblasts) and the Autonomous Republic of Crimea. The federal government consists of executive, legislative and judicial branches. Executive branch The President is elected by popular vote for a five-year term and is eligible for a second term. The President is responsible for issuing decrees and orders, and preventing “any actions of the legislative, executive and judicial branches of power that directly or indirectly infringe upon interpretation of the fundamental Law of Ukraine.” In other words, the President’s job is to ensure that nothing is ever accomplished. Viktor Yanukovych, front man for the Party of Regions, was inaugurated in February 2010 following a closely contested election in which he beat out rival Yulia Tymoshenko by just 3.5% of the vote. Many political insiders have been quick to note the uncanny similarities between Yanukovych and former US President George W. Bush: neither is able to sting together a proper sentence and both will go down in history as the face and definitely not the brain of their respective administrations. Legislative branch The unicameral supreme council, known as Verkhovna Rada, consists of 450 deputies and is presided over by a Speaker. Elections were last held in 2007, and five parties passed the required vote threshold of 3%. The current make up of this bitterly feuding, fund sucking, time wasting branch is as follows: the Party of Regions (172 seats), President Yanukovych’s party, is extremely popular in Ukraine’s industrial, Russian-speaking, eastern oblasts; Yulia Tymoshenko Bloc is led by the former Prime Minister known for her trademark blond peasant braids; Our Ukraine/People’s Self Defence is led by former President Viktor Yushchenko and maintains a base among voters in the west; the Communist Party of Ukraine has been steadily losing support since the fall of communism; Lytvyn Bloc is led by current Speaker Vladimir Lytvyn, a man with gorgeous silver hair. In March 2010, a new majority coalition led by the Party of Regions swooped into Verkhovna Rada and consolidated power by appointing Mykola Azarov, a long-time ally of President Yanukovych, to the position of Prime Minister. The new coalition consists of the Party of Regions, the Communists, Lytvyn Bloc and mercenaries from Our Ukraine/People’s Self Defence and Yulia Tymoshenko Bloc. The formation of this new coalition was made possible only via the passing of a controversial amendment (basically unconstitutional) which allows individual deputies to join coalitions without party consent. Welcome to Ukraine, where laws are made to be broken. Judicial branch The legal system, based on civil law with judicial review of legislative acts, is topped by the Supreme Court and the Constitutional Court. We thought of adding a joke here, but realised that everything that happens in these halls of “justice” is far too disturbing to make light of. Spring 2012 9 10 Culture & Events Art galleries Art-11 C-3, pl. Rynok 37, tel. (+380) 32 274 03 67. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free. Chaos C-4, Rus’ka 12, tel. (+380) 67 670 03 87. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission is free. Dzyga C-3, Virmens’ka 35, tel. (+380) 32 297 56 12. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Admission is free. Gallery of Ukrainain Military Uniform C-3, pl. Rynok 40, tel. (+380) 32 297 51 93. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free. Garry Bowman C-4, Nalyviaka 18, tel. (+380) 32 242 99 99. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free. Gerdan C-4, Rus’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 235 70 46. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission is free. Lviv Art Gallery A-5, Stefanyka 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 39 48/(+380) 32 261 41 60. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Admission 10Hr, children 2Hr. Friday is free for students. Lviv Palace of Arts A-5, Kopernyka 17, tel. (+380) 32 272 89 33. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free. Pory roku (Seasons) C-3, Virmens’ka 23, tel. (+380) 32 235 44 65. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission is free. Zelena Kanapa C-3, Virmens’ka 7, tel. (+380) 32 235 75 49. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free. Cinemas Kinopalace (3D) B-3, Teatral’na 22, tel. (+380) 32 297 50 50/(+380) 32 297 50 05. Q Tickets 20-60Hr. Kinopalace Kopernyk B-5, Kopernyka 9, tel. (+380) 32 240 37 69. Q Tickets 20-40Hr. Planeta Kino (IМАХ/3D) Stryis’ka 30, Sokilnyky, King Cross Leopolis, tel. 0 800 300 600. Q Tickets 18-80Hr. Culture centres British Council H-3, Universytets’ka 1, Lviv National University, tel. (+380) 322 39 45 52. QOpen , Mon, Thu 14:30 - 17:30, Tue, Fri 12:00 - 15:00, Wed 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe-Institute H-3, Universytets’ka 1, Lviv National University, tel. (+380) 322 39 47 67. Lviv State Palace I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 2, tel. (+380) 32 275 32 47. QOpen 17:00 - 20:00. What’s on II Festival of Easter Eggs March 15 - April 22 During the festival Lviv transforms into a virtual ‘Pysanka Museum’ alfresco. The goal of the festival is to make and decorate Lviv with the traditional Easter symbol – Pysankas - Ukrainian Easter eggs - decorated with traditional symbols designed with wax and paints. They are made of different materials, such as flowers, chocolate, wood. Everybody can join the festival. You can create your own pysanka and put it on display. For more information please visit the website www.easter.lviv.ua Lviv Fashion Week March 28 – April 1 Lviv Fashion Week is held twice a year and is one of the greatest events in Eastern Europe. Launched in March 2008, it drew the attention of famous fashion aficionados. In particular, the legendary designer Kenzo Takada who was a guest of honour. Also present were designer Donald Potar and Russian couturier Vyacheslav Zaitsev. Over 30 designers from Ukraine and abroad will present their collections. For more information please visit the website www.lvivfashionweek.com Theatres First Ukrainian Theatre for Children and Youth A-4, Akademika Gnatiuka 11, tel. (+380) 32 272 68 41/(+380) 32 272 68 55. QClosed Mon. Les Kurbas Lviv Academic Theatre A-3, Lesia Kurbasa 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 49 14/(+380) 32 272 48 24. Q Tickets 55-60Hr. Lviv Regional Dall Theatre C-2, Danyla Halyts’koho pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 235 58 32. Maria Zankovetska National Academic Ukrainian Drama Theatre B-2, Lesi Ukrainky 1, tel. (+380) 32 235 55 83, www.zankovetska.com.ua. QClosed Mon. Tickets 20-50Hr. Solomiya Krushelnytska Opera and Ballet Theatre A-3, Svobody prosp. 28, tel. (+380) 32 242 17 90/ (+380) 32 242 11 63, www.opera.lviv.ua. QClosed Mon, Tue. Tickets 25-125Hr. Voskresinnya Theatre H-2, Henerala Hryhorenka pl. 5, tel. (+380) 32 274 13 00. QTickets 10-30Hr. Lviv In Your Pocket Lviv on the plate Gastronomic Festival April 20 – April 22 The Gastronomic Festival takes place in Lviv for the first time and presents Lviv as the gastronomic capital of Ukraine. City restaurateurs will join the festival and offer their delicious dishes and drinks. Owners of cafes, coffeehouses and restaurants will bring the specialities of their establishments to the street! There will be many different dishes presented as Lviv is a multicultural city. The most unexpected event will be a dinner for 1000 people on a giant gastronomic table lviv.inyourpocket.com Culture & Events alfresco. During the festival, awards will be given to the best chef and the best restaurant. For more information please visit the website www.facebook. com/lvivontheplate Palats Pototskykh A-5, Kopernyka 15. Q10:00 – 17:00, Sun 12:00 – 16:00. Easter in Lviv April 15 – 16 Place: Central part of the city Easter is a family holiday and there is no place like the “Lion City:” to enjoy this festive atmosphere. It has been said that the family spirit is everywhere – in churches, squares, and streets, where one can find exhibitions, theatre performance and concerts. Every Easter the ethnic festival “Velyka gaivka” takes place in Lviv. There are master classes on pysankas (Ukrainian Easter eggs) that begin a few weeks prior to the festival. For more information please visit the website www.cultureandtourism.lviv.ua or call (+380) 32 243 78 23, (+380) 32 247 03 81 Ancient Lviv III Festival May 5 – 6 The festival of ancient culture “Ancient Lviv” recreates the era of city’s medieval atmosphere of the 15th century. The main event of the festival is the colourful knights’ tournament. There are warriors’ fights, archery, and various completions and entertainment. The participants are members of historical clubs of reconstructions from all over the world. During the festival visitors can take part in medieval dances, pottery, wood carving, and other crafts. Masters will sell their works at the special fair. For more information please visit the website lviv-old.org.ua Batiar Day Lviv’s Vanes X International Festival April 29 – May 2 The ethnic jazz festival “Lviv’s Vanes” combines different kinds of ethnic music with jazz preludes. It takes place in the court yard of the Ratusha, which creates a special atmosphere. The first festival of “Lviv Vanes” was held in 2003 and every year it becomes bigger and more popular. Included in the programme are many literary performances, happenings and media projects. For more information please visit the website www.dzyga.com V City holiday May 1 – 2 In this day everybody can try to feel what Batiar really is, to feel its mode of life, folklore and traditions that where formed in 19th – 20th centuries. Batiar is a part of the city’s subculture that refers to such people as adventurers, rogues and madcap. Though there are no more real Batiar people, their spirit still remains in the city streets. In this day you can see people who are dressed like Batiars. Batiar-musicians and Batiar-dancers will perform on Lviv streets during the festival. For more information please visit the website www.batyar. lviv.ua Day of Lviv city Carnival May 5 – 6 Place: central part of the city A lot of traditions, such as theatre performances, street displays, and festivals have been established trough many years of celebrating the “Day of the City”. This year, a big festivals’ parade will be held on the streets of Lviv. Thousands of people will participate – children’s teams, knights in armour, actors, orchestras, a “magic train”, carriages, national dance teams, and members of sport’s organizations. You will are welcome to join the parade. Every year it connects residents from Lviv with its guests. For more information please visit the website www.cultureandtourism.lviv.ua or call (+380) 32 235 48 82, (+380) 32 297 57 53 lviv.inyourpocket.com For regular cultural updates stay in touch with Lviv In Your Pocket at www.facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket Spring 2012 11 Culture & Events 12 Lviv – the capital of handicrafts Opera & Ballet Festival May 1 – 29 Lviv was always famous for its craftsmen. So it’s only natural that this festival is held in Lviv. Talented master craftsmen come from all over Ukraine: brewers, cheese-makers, chefs, beekeepers, potters, blacksmiths, weavers, furriers, jewellers, stained-glass window makers, painters, carvers, armourers, and others. Moreover, articles of arts & crafts, such as batik, folk toys from wood, straw, and fabric, will be displayed. This festival is not only a fair, but also a live communication with master craftsmen, master classes, and exhibitions alfresco. For more information please visit the website www.idem.org.ua Doll World Project “Ethnic Doll” May 1 – June 29 The Festival “Doll World” will introduce people to modern Ukrainian dolls. The main dolls of the festival are dolls called Motanka –amulets. In like form are prototypes of a mother, a child and a family. Ukrainian Motanka dolls are varied from other Slavic dolls, as they have a special symbol on the head – the symbol of the sun and the cross. In the project “Ethnic Doll” there will be on display a collection of dolls made using different techniques – from fabric, straw, corn and ceramic. There are modern designer’s dolls in national costumes and many dolls of different nationalities. For more information please visit the website www.l–svit.com.ua March 2012 4 E. Dosenko Magic Tinder 4 C. Pugni Esmeralda Music tale Ballet 7 F. Lehar Die lustige Witwe Operetta 10 K. Dankevych S.Hulak11 Artemovskiy 11 G.Rossini Lileya Ballet A Zaporozhian Cossack Opera Beyond the Danube The Barber of Seville Opera Opera, 15 G.Puccini Madama Butterfly in Italian Opera, 17 G.Verdi La Traviatta in Italian 18 P.Tchaikovsky The Nutcracker Ballet Opera, 18 G.Donizetti L’elisir d’amore in Italian 22 M.Lysenko Natalka Poltavka Opera 23 L.Minkus Don Quixotte 25 P.Tchaikovsky Swan Lake Ballet Ballet Opera, in Italian Operetta 25 G.Verdi Aida 27 J.Strauss S.HulakArtemovskiy G.Puccini 30 M. Skoryk 31 R. Leoncavallo Die Fledermaus A Zaporozhian Cossack Opera Beyond the Danube The Returning of Ballet Butterfly I Pagliacci Opera 29 Wiz-Art V International Festival of Short films May 17 – 20 The International Festival of Short films “Wiz-Art” represents the current state and trends of short films and visual arts development in Ukraine, and in the world in general. The aim of the festival is not only to create a platform for sharing the experience, education, and establishing collaboration between members of cultural societies in the world, but also to help Ukraine with European integration through culture. The festival screens short films created in the last year along with and animated works, experimental films, and video artist’s performances .The festival program consists of competitive and noncompetition blocks. After each session, the audience votes for the film, which will receive the “Audience Choice Award’. Also you can enjoy author’s presentations and retrospectives during the festival. Previous special guests have been directors from Turkey, Great Britain, Scotland, Ukraine, Norway and Germany. For more information please visit the website www.wiz–art.com.ua Leopolis Gran-Prix May 4 – 7 The “Leopolis Gran-Prix” – is an international festival of retro cars. The roots of this festival date back to the short lived “Lviv Gran-Prix which started in 1930, a year after the 1st Monaco Gran-Prix and continued until 1934.The International motor rally of historical cars, the auto parade-carnival, and fashion shows will be held within the festival. Among the main Solomiya Krushelnytska Opera and Ballet Theatre A-3, Svobody prosp. 28, tel. (+380) 32 242 17 90/(+380) 32 242 11 63, www.opera.lviv. ua. QClosed Mon, Tue. Tickets 25-125Hr. Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Culture & Events show, there will be a children’s automobile celebration, and workshops for journalists. There will also be collections of automobile memorabilia and magazines on display. For more information please visit website www.zazkozak.com Virtuoso XXXI International music festival May 21 – June 10 One of the oldest constantly active music forums of Ukraine was founded in the beginning of the 1980s. During the first years it gathered the most prominent virtuosos from the former USSR and was later transformed into an annual parade of the “high society” from the world of music. Within the recent years both famous and aspiring young musicians from many countries of Europe, Asia, and America have participated in the festival. Lviv has truly become a city, which virtuoso wish to visit. For more information please visit the website www.philharmonia.lviv.ua Alfa Jazz Fest II International Jazz festival June 1 – 3 “Alfa jazz” is a big international jazz festival. It allows people not only to enjoy performances of the best jazz musicians, but also to spend an amazing weekend in the best traditions of European music events. Concerts are held alfresco on three different stages, which gives a special atmosphere to the city. World famous stars, such as Bill Evans, Wynton Marsalis, Igor Butman, Jeff Lorber, John Scofield and Spyro Gyra, participated in the first festival, and this year there will be a great line up of world renown artists as well. For more information please visit the website www.alfajazzfest.com Concerts “Brussels” project with Svyatoslav Vakarchuk April 7 Svyatoslav Vakarchuk, a leader of the band “Okean Elzy”, was an originator of the new music project “Brussels”. The album of the same name was recorded in August 2011 in Brussels (Belgium) in the studio ICP Recording Studios. 12 songs on Ukrainian and English languages were included in the album. Also performing in the Lviv concert are Serhiy Babkin, Dmytro Schurov, Maks Malyshev and Petro Cherniavsky. For more information please call (+380) 32 243 00 02 Palace of Sport “Ukraine” F-4, Melnyka 18QTickets 160 – 195 Hr. lviv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 13 14 Where to stay The boom is on for Lviv’s hotel industry! Throughout its history, the city’s stunning architecture, rich history and exciting dining and entertainment options have drawn travellers in hordes. During the last few years, many new establishments were opened to serve Lviv’s guests. Now, all hotels and hostels offer a full range of comfort, style and service. Tired of hotels? A number of agencies offer renovated apartments that can be rented on a nightly basis, and are considerably cheaper than many hotel rooms. The advantages of privacy, a kitchen and more space in general are definite pluses. Symbol key Cream of the crop Citadel Inn H-4, Hrabovs’koho 11, tel. (+380) 32 295 77 77, fax (+380) 32 295 90 00, reservation@citadelinn.com.ua, www.citadel-inn.com/en. Located near centre, Citadel is actually a 19th century fortress. Encased in such a unique old-world atmosphere, it’s easy to shrug off contemporary problems and just relax. Staff is very courteous and adept at serving foreign clients. Twenty-six elegant, ultra-comfortable rooms are available and come standard with air-conditioning, cable TV, safe, mini-bar, bathrobes, slippers, hair-dryer, telephone and Internet access. The romantic Garmata Restaurant serves succulent European and Ukrainian cuisine. Guests are also welcome to enjoy the sauna, gym and conference and banquet rooms. Q26 rooms (standards 1190 - 1400Hr, superior 1590 - 1800Hr, suite 3390Hr, extra bed 200 - 500Hr). POHARU� FLGKDW hhhh Grand Hotel B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. (+380) 322 72 40 42, fax (+380) 322 76 90 60, reservation@ghgroup. com.ua, www.ghgroup.com.ua. Grand is extremely adept at meeting the needs of western travellers. Located on Lviv’s main thoroughfare, the hotel was completely renovated in the late 90’s and has an elegant appeal. Rooms come with classic interiors, modern amenities and views of either the quiet courtyard or of bustling Svobody prosp. The breakfast buffet served in Grand’s renowned restaurant is included in the room charge, as is a membership to an upscale fitness centre that features a swimming pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, massage service, solarium, aerobics hall and gym. The professional staff is fluent in English making for a no-hassle experience. Q61 rooms (singles €82, doubles €107, junior suites €143, suites €170, apartment €220, extra bed €30). PHARFLGKDW hhhh Leopolis B-3, Teatral’na 16, tel. (+380) 32 295 95 00, fax (+380) 32 295 95 99, reservations@leopolishotel. com, www.leopolishotel.com. Located in a newly renovated 18th century structure just steps from historic Rynok pl., Leopolis is a nose ahead when it comes to class. The attention to detail here is impressive. All rooms are unique, stylishly designed and come with classy touches such as heated tile floors, anti-allergenic features, stereo systems that weave throughout the rooms (there are even speakers in the shower), high-speed wireless Internet, soundproof triple-pane windows, etc. A complimentary buffet breakfast Door smarts A quick yet indispensable guide to those embarrassing moments in front of a foreign door. Pull До себе Push Від себе Open Відчинено Closed Зачинено Lviv In Your Pocket P Air-conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino H Conference facilities T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled R Internet L Guarded parking F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms K Restaurant M Nearest metro station D Sauna C Swimming pool 6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi internet access is served in the elegant hotel’s restaurant. Special executive hour service from 17:30 until 19:00 with complimentary soft and alcohol drinks and canapés in the cosy Library will make a good start for your evening. The hotel is currently expanding into the adjacent building. Scheduled for completion in May 2012, this new wing will bring the room total to 76 and will include a spa centre, two conference rooms, new restaurant and evening cocktail bar. Q43 rooms (18 superiors €165 - 220, 22 junior suites €250, 2 suites €400, 1 apartment €550, extra bed €30). PHR6ULGKW hhhhh new Nobilis I-3, I-4, Fredra 5, tel. (+380) 32 295 25 95, fax (+380) 32 295 79 97, reservations@nobilis-hotel.com. ua, www.nobilis-hotel.com.ua. A great 1st class hotel in the centre which just opened in December, 2011. There are 49 exquisitely decorated rooms ranging from ‘standard’ at 2475Hr. per night to the ‘Nobel Suite’ for 7040Hr. There is a Spa for guests and a soon to be opened fitness centre. There is a quaint lounge bar open 24 hours and a piano bar with live music daily and a special performance every Sunday. The Nobilis Restaurant has a gourmet blend of tantalizing Mediterranean cuisine and signature local dishes, which are certain to delight your taste sensations and surpass your expectations. It also offers romantic private dinners, breakfast in bed and more. There is a room service menu available 24-hours. Restaurant Hours: 11:00 - 23:00. Breakfast hours: Monday-Friday: 07:00 - 10:30, Saturday-Sunday 08:00 - 11:30. Q49 rooms (40 standards 2475Hr, 8 suites 3630 - 3960Hr, 1 apartment 7040Hr). PbHA6UFLGKDW hhhhh Opera A-3, Svobody prosp. 45, tel. (+380) 32 225 90 00/(+380) 50 431 95 99, fax (+380) 32 225 90 01, reception@hotel-opera.lviv.ua, www.hotel-opera.com. ua. Opera is perfect for both business trips and romantic getaways. Located at the start of Svobody prosp., the 51 newly remodelled rooms come equipped with air-conditioning, telephone, filtered tap water, refrigerator with mini-bar and satellite TV. Many rooms have spectacular views of the Opera House and the ancient cityscape that lies beyond. The restaurant on the ground floor serves a complimentary breakfast, and for lunch and dinner head to the exclusive Panorama restaurant on the seventh floor. The exquisite menu and popular summer terrace make this one of the most intriguing and definitely the most romantic venues in the city. Excellent conference facilities are available. Q51 rooms (12 singles 850-1020Hr, 29 doubles 1120-1302Hr, 5 junior suites 1540Hr, 5 suites 2380Hr, extra bed 300Hr). PHAR6ULKW hhhh €1 = 10.71Hr; US$1 = 7.98Hr; £1 = 12.62Hr (28 February 2012 official rates) lviv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay lviv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 15 16 Where to stay Upmarket Chopin B-5, Malaniuka pl. 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 10 20, fax (+380) 32 261 10 21, info@chopinhotel.com. ua, www.chopinhotel.com.ua/en. While the outside is definitely a classical Polish/Lvivan style, once inside, one can imagine oneself inside a modern hotel in any major European City. Chopin Hotel is located in a quaint plaza near the City Hall, the Lviv regional philharmonic society, and a short walk from the Pototsky Palace and the Lviv Art Gallery. We found the staff very friendly and happily, English speaking. Guests may enjoy Polish and European specialties in the stylish Chopin restaurant with a summer terrace. We stopped by at breakfast time and the buffet made our mouth water. We were told in the evening there is live piano music. The atmosphere was so comfortable, I almost wanted to wait. All 16 rooms are air-conditioned and decorated in a romantic style. They are fitted with both Wi-Fi and cable internet, Cable TV, a mini bar and a safe. Many additional services are available. Q16 rooms (4 singles 700 - 800Hr, 3 doubles 900Hr, 5 suites 1300Hr, 2 apartments 1600 - 1900Hr, 2 junior suite 1100Hr). hhh Dnister G-3, Mateika 6, tel. (+380) 32 297 43 17/(+380) 32 297 43 05, fax (+380) 32 297 10 21, bron@dnister. lviv.ua, www.dnister.lviv.ua. Set half way up St. George hill overlooking picturesque Ivan Franko Park, Dnister offers the absolute best views of Lviv. With 165 rooms it is also one of the largest hotels in the city. Value for hryvnia doesn’t actually kick in room-wise until superior and lux (definitely worth splurging for); standard rooms are reminiscent of what can be found in a stateside motel. Built in 1983, the hotel was completely remodelled in 1999 and has since garnered the reputation as one of Lviv’s premier business and conference centres. Seven conference halls are available with the largest accommodating up to 200 participants. They also offer group discounts: the larger the group the bigger the discount. Staff is courteous, professional and English speaking. Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel. The restaurant is elegantly arranged and offers scrumptious European cuisine. The hotel’s gem is the Panorama Bar located on the ninth floor. From the bars telescope it’s possible to get a close up peep of Old Town or eaves drop on hikers mulling about Vysokyi Zamok Mount. Q165 rooms (16 economy 500Hr, 6 standards 600Hr, 29 superiors 850Hr, 102 businesses 950Hr, 12 suites 1500Hr). hhhh Eney K-4, Shymzeriv 2, tel./fax (+380) 322 76 87 99, eney@mail.lviv.ua, www.eney.lviv.ua. This quaint hotel is located in a tranquil niche next to a botanical garden a short cab ride from centre. Rooms are decked with stylishly modern décor and come standard with air-conditioning, satellite TV, Internet, bathrobe, toiletries, safe and mini-bar. Relaxation and entertainment options include a dry sauna, billiards and an outdoor pool (open throughout the summer months). Breakfast is included in the room rate and is served at the hotel’s restaurant, which features Ukrainian, European and Japanese cuisine. Reception staff is extremely professional, courteous and multi-lingual. Q15 rooms (singles 680Hr, doubles 880 - 1080Hr, triples 1280Hr, suites 120 - 1480Hr, apartments 1680Hr). PHARLGKXCW hhh Eurohotel J-4, Tershakivtsiv 6A, tel. (+380) 32 242 40 02, fax (+380) 32 275 72 24, info@eurohotel.lviv. ua, www.eurohotel.lviv.ua. Located a brisk 15 minute walk from centre, Eurohotel has an elegantly remodelled interior and rooms. A safe, mini bar, Internet access, satellite TV and air-conditioning come standard in the rooms. The hotel also features a modern business centre, a conference hall that accommodates up to 50 and interpreting services. Various package deals are also available and come with extras such as guided city tours and airport transfer. Reception speaks fluent English and is adept at meeting the needs of foreign Lviv In Your Pocket tourists. Located in the lobby, the restaurant offers appropriate European cuisine. Q92 rooms (singles €47, doubles €57 - 66, junior suites €85, suites €122, apartments €160). POHARLGKW hhhh Reikartz Dworzec F-3, Horodots’koho 107, tel. (+380) 32 235 08 88, dvorzhec.lviv@reikartz.com, www.reikartz.com. Located on the edge of downtown, this new kid on the block brings competitive rates and western European standards to Lviv. All rooms are stylish, comfortably furnished and come with mini bar, safe, hairdryer, satellite TV, internet access and telephone. The cosy lobby-bar and the Calvados Mediterranean restaurant are fine additions. The staff is professional and eager to make your stay a comfortable one. The hotel has two modern conference halls, which are fitted with professional equipment and are able to accommodate 90 and 130 people, correspondingly. The Business Centre of the hotel will provide all the necessary support to any business meetings. Q52 rooms (8 singles 500Hr, 32 doubles 600Hr, 6 superiors 800Hr, 6 suites 1350Hr). PARLKDCW hhh Reikartz Medievale C-3, Drukarska 9, tel. (+380) 32 235 08 90, medievale.lviv@reikartz.com, http:// en.reikartz.com/lvov.html. This hotel is situated in the very centre of historic Lviv, close to Rynok Square. It was opened in December, 2010 and presently has 23 rooms decorated in European style, or more accurately Belgian style; modern and simple. One gets the feeling that everything here works smoothly and efficiently. There is presently a very relaxing lobby bar. There is a second phase expansion underway which will include a large restaurant, conference rooms and nearly 50 more rooms. The staff is English speaking and extremely friendly. All rooms are bright and refreshing and well priced. Everything you could ask for is included, Internet, cable satellite TV, safe, mini bar etc. Don’t forget that one is only seconds from the excitement of the old city and all it offers. Q23 rooms (6 singles 590Hr, 8 doubles 690Hr, 6 superior 890Hr, 3 suite 1390Hr). PRUW hhhh Swiss Hotel C-5, Kniazia Romana 20, tel./fax (+380) 32 240 37 77, info@swiss-hotel.lviv.ua, www.swisshotel.lviv.ua. Swiss offers 18 suites, each of which is uniquely decorated. All rooms come equipped with satellite TV, telephone, mini-bar, air-conditioning, safe, hair dryer and slippers. Breakfast is served in the Italian restaurant and is included in the price. Other services include room service, city tours in a variety of languages, a children’s room (free for hotel guests), nanny services for small children and a conference hall with multimedia equipment. Q18 rooms (standard €90, superior €115, junior suites €150, suites €170 - 200, apartment €262). PHARLGKDCW hhhh The Lion’s Castle Hotel G-5, Glinky 7, tel. (+380) 32 297 15 63/(+380) 32 238 61 16, fax (+380) 32 237 82 51, info@lioncastle.lviv.ua, www.lioncastlehotel.com/ en. Located in one of Lviv’s most elite neighbourhoods, The Lion’s Castle offers guests serenity and comfort. The castle, constructed in 1898, was the brainchild of architect Arthur Schlein. Thirteen rooms of varying comfort and elegance are available and come equipped with refrigerator, cable TV, DVD-player (upon request), telephone, free Wi-Fi and a parking lot. Other services include laundry, baggage storage, and complimentary newspapers and magazines. With it’s summer terrace and birds singing The Lion’s Castle Hotel is an idyllic place for romantic weekends as well as for business trips due to hotel’s closeness to the exhibition centres. Hotel café offers a mix of Ukrainian and European cuisine with great wine carte, home-made pastry and desserts. The hotel’s conference hall seats up to 30. Q13 rooms (8 standards 500 - 750Hr, 4 junior suites 900 - 1000Hr, 1 suite 1500 1600Hr). HR6FLGKDCW lviv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay lviv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 17 18 Where to stay Vintage Boutique Hotel C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 25/27, tel. (+380) 32 235 68 34, fax (+380) 32 235 70 24, info@vintagehotel.com.ua, www.vintagehotel.com. ua/en/home.html. Vintage is located on one of old town’s most alluring streets. The recently remodelled rooms are elegant and come standard with satellite TV, telephone, mini-bar, air-conditioning, safe, Wi-Fi and slippers. The lux room is stunning and the twins and doubles are comfortable; however, the singles tend to be a bit claustrophobic. Many rooms offer fascinating contrasting views of the surrounding ancient architecture. A small business centre is at your service, and the complimentary buffet breakfast is served in the café. Q12 rooms (3 singles 760Hr, 6 doubles 960Hr, 3 suites 1570Hr). PARLK sine. The salmon in a honey sauce is a local favourite. Q22 rooms (3 singles 430Hr, 15 doubles 580 - 630Hr, 4 suites 800 - 1000Hr). POHARLGK hhh Prestige F-2, Yaroslava Mudroho 33, tel. (+380) 32 244 Mid-range 41 78, fax (+380) 32 244 41 79, www.pristige-hotel. lviv.ua/index_en.html. Don’t let the name frighten your wallet, Prestige is actually good value for hryvnia. Located a short cab ride from centre, rooms were recently remodelled and are elegantly furnished. With only nine rooms and one apartment, this hotel is regularly booked; advanced reservation is the way to go. Breakfast is served in the café on the ground floor and starts at 65Hr. Amenities include satellite TV, air-conditioning, safe, mini bar, laundry service, 24 hour room service and guarded parking. Q10 rooms (standards 385Hr, junior suites 485Hr, suites 985Hr, additional bed 60Hr). PAR hhh Edem F-3, Horodots’ka 95A, tel. (+380) 32 240 31 05, edem_hotel@ukr.net, www.hotel-edem.lviv.ua. A lovely, quaint hotel near the centre, just 2 years old. It is wheel chair accessible, a rarity in Ukraine! The 20 rooms are beautifully decorated with all extras and range from 500Hr per night for a single to 960Hr for a suite. The restaurant is very popular, with an English menu and very reasonable priced. Q20 rooms (3 singles 500Hr, 12 doubles 620Hr, 3 junior suites 780Hr, 2 suites 960Hr, additional bed 150Hr). PALGKW hhh Staryi Krakiv (Old Krakow) H-2, Shpytal’na 21, tel. (+380) 32 297 16 30, fax (+380) 32 261 33 75, staryikrakiv@ukrpost.ua, www.staryikrakiv.lviv.ua. After renovation of Shpytal’na street it became a good addition to ancient city. A hotel is located here in just 3 minutes walk from the Opera Theatre. Staff is friendly and nice speaks not only English but Polish and Spanish also. The complimentary breakfast is served in the cosy courtyard café. VAT not included. Q10 rooms (4 singles 380Hr, 4 doubles 460Hr, 2 triples 570Hr). PRGKW hhh George C-5, Mickiewicza pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 232 62 32, fax (+380) 32 297 11 44, info@georgehotel.com. ua, www.georgehotel.com.ua. Hotel George was founded by George Hoffman in 1901. The structure itself is a fine example of Neo-Renaissance architecture and was designed by famed Viennese architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. The interior was restored in 2010 meaning that a touch of Soviet remains, i.e. the lift really takes your breath away. The deluxe and semi-deluxe rooms are spacious, have been remodelled to the local taste and come standard with telephone, cable TV, Internet access and a refrigerator. Many rooms have romantic views of Svobody prosp. and Lviv’s historic centre. Tourist class rooms come at a bargain rate, but you’ll have to share a bathroom and shower. The service is up to standard and English is not a problem for most of the helpful staff. George’s restaurant, bar and banquet room are located through the lobby. The Lviv chestnut beef and savoury pork highlight the restaurant’s reasonably priced menu and the complimentary breakfast begins at 7:30. Q90 rooms (economy 400 - 550Hr, standards 800 - 850Hr, junior suites 900Hr, suites 1000Hr). PHARKW hhh U Burgera I-4, Ivana Franka 73, tel. (+380) 32 276 12 51/(+380) 67 673 50 51, fax (+380) 32 296 65 69, info@burger.com.ua, www.burger.com.ua. We were a touch confused when we first entered the hotel: there’s a beer tap mounted on the reception desk. I’m sure were not the first visitors to wonder “Where the hell are we?” Since we had a few minutes to kill before our tour, we ordered a couple pints of Lvivske Premium and enjoyed. Rooms are comfortable and come in various themes. For example, the lux room sleeps up to four and looks like something Elton John would decorate. All rooms are equipped with satellite TV, Internet and telephone. General services include transfer from the airport and rail station, travel services, interpreter, car hire, room service and parking. A small conference hall is also available. Q18 rooms (10 standards 425 - 500Hr, 5 junior suites 575 - 650Hr, 3 suites 750 - 1200Hr, extra bed 100Hr). PHARLKW hhhh Kupava E-2, Komarova 17, tel./fax (+380) 32 245 03 45, office@kupavahotel.com, www.kupavahotel.com. A fairly new hotel a bit outside the centre with 13 lovely rooms ranging from 500-1600Hr. The restaurant has to be seen to be believed. It is divided into several sections, extravagantly styled as though being in an old Ukrainian indoor-outdoor hunting lodge. The English menu is reasonably priced with a daily complete menu for 55Hr. The staff was very friendly and helpful. Q12 rooms (6 standards 500 - 720Hr, 4 junior suite 930 1100Hr, 2 suite 1600Hr). PH6LGKDCW hhhh Natalia 18 B-2, Kniazia Yaroslava Osmomysla pl. 7, tel./fax (+380) 32 242 20 68, www.natalia18.lviv.ua/ index_eng.html. The quiet ambiance of this quaint hotel is a distinct contrast to the bustle of the lively little square that lies beyond the threshold. With only 22 rooms, it’s easy to feel at home and the friendly English speaking staff knows how to accommodate. The tastefully remodelled rooms are equipped with air-conditioning, satellite TV, mini-bar and telephone. Natalia’s restaurant is set in a comfy basement and features reasonably priced Ukrainian and European cui- Lviv In Your Pocket Vienna B-4, Svobody prosp. 12, tel. (+380) 32 244 43 14/(+380) 32 244 43 15, fax (+380) 32 244 43 16, wienhotel@mail.lviv.ua, www.wienhotel.com.ua/en. Vienna’s location, competitive prices and welcoming staff makes for an attractive combination. Even in the low season rooms are hard to come by, so book ahead. All rooms have a cosy welcome home appeal, offer enthralling views of Lviv’s lively centre and come equipped with air-conditioning, cable TV and Internet access. The summer patio, part of the celebrated Vienna Coffehouse restaurant, is one of the hottest venues in town. A billiard hall is also available. Q20 rooms (singles €32, doubles €38, junior suites €75, suite €85). PARLKW hhh Volter Lypyns’koho 60A, tel. (+380) 32 294 88 88/ (+380) 32 557 88 88, fax (+380) 32 294 88 89, booking@nton.info, www.hotelvolter.com.ua. A bit out of the centre, part of the Nton Hotel chain. There are 56 well furnished rooms ranging from 350Hr to 1000Hr per night with a buffet breakfast included. For visitors and guests who are not staying at the hotel the price for buffet breakfast is 50Hr. The restaurant is open from 07:00 till 10:00 (till 11:00 on weekends) Business lunches - daily from 12:00 till 15:00. Price: 25Hr. Dinner can be served in your room. There is a choice of original dishes of French cuisine from the a-la carte menu. lviv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay There is a large banquet hall available. Wi-Fi is everywhere and there is room service round-the-clock. Q56 rooms (singles 250 - 350Hr, doubles 295 - 420Hr, junior suites 420 - 580Hr, suites 670 - 800Hr). PHA6ULGKW hhh Budget Lviv A-2, Chornovola prosp. 7, tel. (+380) 32 242 32 70/(+380) 32 272 86 51, fax (+380) 32 272 86 51, www.hotel-lviv.com.ua. With 360 rooms, this is one of Lviv’s largest hotels. Centrally located, rooms on the upper floors facing Chornovola prosp. come with nice views of the historic centre. Not much has changed with the lobby, stairs and lift since Soviet days and room furnishings are a bit rough around the edges. Only about half of the rooms come with telephone and a TV; “superior” rooms have refrigerators. Ukrainian and European are on order in the restaurant and there’s plenty of parking for those bold enough to drive on Ukraine’s roads. Q360 rooms (singles 120 - 355Hr, doubles 220 - 500Hr, triples 300 - 360Hr, quads 480 - 640Hr, junior suites 475 - 690Hr). LK Nton Shevchenka 154B, tel. (+380) 32 233 71 72/ (+380) 67 676 88 85, fax (+380) 32 233 31 23, hotelnton@mail.lviv.ua, www.hotelnton.lviv.ua. This hotel is quite far from the center and a great place for train spotters. There are 76 well decorated rooms ranging from just 380Hr per night including a great buffet breakfast. There are 2 large restaurants, one with an Egyptian décor and a large outside dining area, and 2 smaller ones. Banquets are often held. Prices are very reasonable. Q76 rooms (singles 280 - 420Hr, doubles 420 - 480Hr, junior suite 470 - 520Hr, suite 590 - 640Hr, additional bed 150Hr). POTHA6U� FLGKDCW hhh lviv.inyourpocket.com Sykhiv Morozna 14, tel. (+380) 32 23 25 000/(+380) 32 23 25 005, fax (+380) 32 23 25 010, info@hotelsykhiv.com, www.hotelsykhiv.com. Located a ways from the centre, this hotel of 177 rooms has just been beautifully remodeled. Rooms are reasonably priced with a semi delux costing just 850Hr per night. All rooms have all the extras. There are several conference halls and seminar rooms and the Restaurant is open 24/7. Q122 rooms (doubles €34 - 40, junior suites €71, suites €80 - 85). Out of town Vezha Vedmezha Tsotsora natural boundary, Volo- syanka village, Skolivs’kyi district, Lviv Region, tel. (+380) 67 474 44 74/(+380) 97 410 53 10, fax (+380) 32 276 16 61, info@vv-hotel.com, vv-hotel. com/inner_en.html. If you need to flee the city or just want to get high on crisp mountain air, this is the place for you. Located in a picturesque nook of the Carpathian Mountains, not far from the Slavs’ke ski resort, this cosy castle features 25 uniquely furnished suites. The “Vezha” suite is the pride of the hotel, and features a romantic fireplace and breathtaking panoramic views. All suites are equipped with satellite TV, telephone, safe, mini-bar and hair dryer. Specialising in corporate team-building events, attendees may choose from a variety of activities such as the medieval themed “Brave Heart” programme, mountain rescue, rafting and much more. One final note of interest: Vezha Vedmezha won in “The Brightest New Hotel” category at the 2008 Ukrainian Travel Awards. Q26 rooms (20 doubles 700 - 850Hr, 5 suites 950 - 1600Hr, 1 apartments 1900Hr). PHA6LG� KDC hhhh Spring 2012 19 20 Where to stay The In Your Pocket iPhone App Hostels A wide range of In Your Pocket guides are now available in iTunes as iPhone apps. Developed in association with Meta4Labs, the apps combine all the best features of In Your Pocket guides - up-to-date, accurate, well-written and independent information - with the functionality of the iPhone. 32 254 61 69/(+380) 97 222 41 36, cshostel@gmail. com, www.cshostel.com/en. Central offers the unique experience of staying right on Rynok pl. (Market Square) - Lviv’s cobbled heart. With only 18 available beds, space is limited. Owner and stuff will give you most needed information about city and places where to go. However, this is a fine choice for travellers on a hostel budget looking to avoid crowds. Things to know before you go: no curfew, 24 hours reception, Wi-Fi, breakfast, private lockers and a newly remodelled bathroom with laundry. Q (doubles 160 - 400Hr, quads 140 - 160Hr, 6-dorm 120 - 140Hr, 8-dorm 95 - 120Hr). R6GW Kurmanovycha Kurmanovycha 9, tel. (+380) 67 314 66 61, hostelling.lviv@gmail.com. Although this hostel is located a bit from centre, it has its pluses. Situated in a “recreation zone”, it’s just a 50 metre walk from Levandivka Park. Twenty-five rooms can accommodate up to 120 travellers. Conveniences are shared, but hot water is available 24/7. A relatively large car park is available. Discounts from 10 -15% are offered to groups larger than 20. Breakfast and parking are not included in the rate. Q (doubles 140Hr, 3, 4, 5 - bed dorms 60Hr). RL Leo City I-4, Konopnyt’skoi 15, app. 7, 3d floor, door code 7, tel. (+380) 93 948 93 26, hostel.leocity@gmail. com, www.leocityhostel.com. Locating the building that houses this hostel is easy. The trick is finding your way into the hostel itself. It’s actually located on the third floor, and you may need to call reception for someone to show you the way. Once inside, you’ll discover competitive rates on newly remodelled rooms. Choose from a ten or eight bed room, and one private room. The freebie list is extensive and includes coffee, tea, milk, breakfast, towels, linens, Wi-Fi, luggage storage, maps and advice. Q (doubles 135Hr, quads 80Hr, additional bed 70Hr). ARW Lviv Backpackers Hostel Roxelana F-4, Henerala Chuprynky 50/4, tel. (+380) 97 444 97 89, hostelrunners@gmail.com, www.roxelana.hostel.com. The name implies exactly what this is; A hostel for “true backpackers”. Those wishing to really economize will probably not find anything cheaper in all of Europe! There are shared rooms with 8 beds each and a smaller room for more “private accommodation”. The décor is “Late Brezhnev” with some remodeling taking place. A kitchen is available as well as an “in-house” café for those wishing to eat-in. Breakfast is included along with Wi-Fi and a whole lot of services provided including cable TV & bicycle hire. It is easily accessible and about halfway between the Train station and the city centre. Q (doubles €15, triples €10, 8-bed dorm €9, 12-bed dorm €9, 14-bed dorm €7). RLW Old City Hostel Beryndy 3, app. 7, tel. (+380) 32 294 96 44/(+380) 93 259 35 00, fax (+380) 32 235 77 88, booking@oldcityhostel.lviv.ua, oldcityhostel.lviv.ua. A great deal for backpackers & those on a limited budget. It’s located right smack dab in the middle of the “old city”. We found it warm & cosy with a very friendly English speaking staff. All rooms were modern and clean. There’s a communal kitchen and WIFI and breakfast is included. There’s a 10% discount if one books online and a discount for those staying 3 days or longer. Open 24 hours. Q (doubles 300 - 370Hr, quads 120 - 150Hr, 6-bed dorm 110 - 130Hr, 10-bed dorm 100 - 120Hr, 16-bed dorm 80 - 100Hr). AW Old Ukrainian Home G-2, Lepkoho 12, tel. (+380) 32 272 76 11/(+380) 67 911 14 31, oldua@homehostels.com.ua, www.homehostels.org. Old Ukrainian Home is a vibrant, cosy addition to Lviv’s hostel spectrum. The location is supreme - just a short walk from the city’s You can search all venues in a city by location, and find the cafes, bars and restaurants closest to you, as well as browse the app’s entire content offline. We even supply high-resolution static street and transport maps (exactly the same as those in our guides) so you can enjoy In Your Pocket on your iPhone without racking up huge roaming charges. Other features include fully integrated Google Maps, within-app dialling and web browsing, embedded In Your Pocket video guides, currency exchange calculator and local weather information. All In Your Pocket apps have native hi-res graphics for iPhone 4. And like In Your Pocket guides, our apps are updated regularly by local researchers and native English speaking writers. More than ten In Your Pocket cities are currently available as iPhone apps, and more are being released all the time. Visit the App Store on your iPhone or PC/Mac now and see if your city is In Your Pocket and on your iPhone. Lviv In Your Pocket Central Square Hostel C-3, Rynok pl. 5, tel. (+380) lviv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay prime attractions. Rooms are tidy and comfortable, and the antique touches add nicely to what is sure to be a unique experience. Freebies include linen and towels, hair dryer, washing machine, iron, safe, Wi-Fi, coffee and tea. Choose from a private room with a double bed, and six and ten bed dorm rooms. Other mentionables include 24 hour reception, tourist information, train and bus ticket booking, kitchen, library and bicycle hire. Q (singles 190 - 200Hr, doubles 140 - 150Hr, triples 140 - 150Hr, 6-dorm 90 - 95Hr, 10-dorm 85 - 90Hr). PAR6GW Retro Hostel Shevchenko C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 16, tel./fax (+380) 32 240 37 61, sun.hotel.2007@ gmail.com. Ideally located on one of Lviv’s most central thoroughfares, Retro has a lot to offer. Choose from a single bed in a private room to a bed in a room with 13 potential new best friends and everything in between. Most rooms are spacious, and all rooms come with air-conditioning and security lockers. Prices are competitive and the staff is very pleasant. A wide range of amenities are available including airport transfer, 24 hour reception, Wi-Fi and Internet access, breakfast (for an additional 2 euros), parking, tours, kitchen, bar, restaurant, barbecue area, pool table and hot tub. Q14 rooms (singles 189Hr, doubles 109Hr, triples 75Hr, quads 5Hr, 6-bed dorm 63Hr, 8-bed dorm 63Hr, 14-bed dorm 52Hr). JARW Soviet Home Hostel Drukars’ka 3, tel. (+380) 93 319 67 97, soviet@homehostels.com.ua, www.homehostels. org. Soviet Home offers the fascinating experience of living in a typical Soviet-era flat with two important exceptions: modern bathrooms and beds. Just a couple blocks from Rynok ploscha, the location is truly exceptional. Select from six and ten bed dorms, and private triple, twin and single rooms. Breakfast, linens, towels, luggage storage and even a city tour are included. The hostel also offers Internet, 24 hour reception, washing machines and pickup service from the airport and train station (call for details). Q4 rooms (singles 190 - 200Hr, doubles 150 - 170Hr, triples 140 - 150Hr, 6-dorm 90 - 100Hr, 10-dorm 95 - 100Hr). R6GW The Georgehouse hostel G-3, Ustyyanovycha 8, apt.1, tel. (+380) 50 430 64 54, hostel.lviv@gmail.com, www.georgehouse.com.ua. A great place for “Art Deco” lovers! Uniquely designed in a very friendly and clean environment. Even the bathroom cups match the design scheme. It is worth the visit just to feel the experience. There are 2 rooms: one for 4 and another for 8 people. The kitchen is equipped with refrigerator, microwave, and electric kettle. Additional services are free tea and coffee, phone, hair dryer, TV in each room, Wi-Fi, lockers, laundry, and 24 hour reception. Parking is available. Located near the city centre near the St. George Cathedral. Q quads 115Hr, 8-bed dorm 95Hr Guest House “Family House” G-3, Karpins’koho 7, app. 5, tel. (+380) 95 225 66 54/(+380) 32 253 24 90, fax (+380) 32 254 61 69, familyhouse.lviv@gmail.com. As the name implies, it is a place for families, individual tourists of course are welcome and the prices are quite reasonable. It has 3 rooms: a single room, double room, and a family room. There are 2 bathrooms, a large kitchen, communal room, and a place to store bicycles. The hostel is in a lovely Austrian built house from the 1800’s, and is 15 minutes from Market Square (Ploscha Rynok) and the main train station or 5 minutes by tram. Breakfast is not included in the on-line rates but is available for a surcharge. Q3 rooms (1 singles 220Hr, 1 doubles 290Hr, 1 triples 390Hr, Additional bed 90Hr). A6W lviv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 21 22 Restaurants Symbol key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child friendly S Take away V Home delivery U Facilities for the disabled G Non-smoking areas I Fireplace O Casino 6 Animal friendly L Guarded parking E Live music B Terrace W Wi-Fi internet access Lviv’s dining scene is a reflection of the city’s incredibly rich and diverse history. Every corner of global cuisine is represented (French, Greek, Italian, Viennese, Jewish, Asian, American, Latin, etc.), and local Ukrainian and Halytska (Galician) restaurants are among the finest in Ukraine. In the historic centre, you’re never more than a couple steps away from your next dining experience, and the standard of service is excellent. With so many establishments to choose from, we hope that this guide serves as the solution to the overwhelming question: What’s for dinner? Armenian Krakivska Brama B-3, Krakivs’ka 5, tel. (+380) 32 236 American The Grill B-3, Teatralna 22, Kinopalace Cinema, tel. (+380) 32 235 49 91, www.thegrill.com.ua. Steak, Wok, and Roll! A friendly Cowboy greeted us at the door. So a country western atmosphere should be inside right? Yes and no. Yes if one wants to sit on the ground floor smoking section. No if one wants non-smoking. Then it’s down stairs to the beautifully oriental designed nonsmoking area. The menus, and there several of them, are available in both sections. We opted for the “country” section, as this seems a bit of a rare experience Ukraine. In the afternoon it seemed like an endless supply of Elvis albums were being played. In the evening there was a guitar soloist with harmonica. All menus are in English with pictures and graphic illustrations. There is a large Drink menu offering delicious homemade beer. The sushi menu has dishes listed with names of some U.S. cities and states. The steak menu has diagrams and explanations of different cuts of meat. It’s something that a lot of restaurants and meat sellers seem to ignore. We tried the sirloin, rare. The old saying “it seems to melt in your mouth” certainly applies here! There are also BBQ, Lamb, and mixed dishes on this menu. The fish and poultry menu as well as the soup, salad, and side order menus are divided into East for Oriental - West for U.S. Country style. So is the pasta/rice, garnish, and desert menu. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAEGW €1 = 10.71Hr; US$1 = 7.98Hr; £1 = 12.62Hr (28 February 2012 official rates) Lviv In Your Pocket 72 73. Though European, Carpathian (Hutsul) and Ukrainian are all represented on the menu, the delicious authentic Armenian is what sets this place apart. We recommend taking a seat in the basement near the flavourful mangal (grill), where chefs meticulously roast Lulya kabob, mutton shashlyk, sea trout and other traditional delicacies. If you would like to keep the good times rolling after hours, it will set you back 150Hr per hour. Also, it’s definitely worth keeping this eatery in mind for breakfast; the omelettes and crêpes come with complimentary tea and toast. Banquets can be organised for up to 50, and tour groups are welcome to place orders in advance. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAUIGBS Taron Kuznevycha 16A, tel. (+380) 32 237-70-35, restaron@gmail.com, taron.lviv.ua. A short drive outside the centre brings one to this beautifully decorated restaurant. The staff speak English and the menu is also in English offering Armenian, Georgian, Caucasian, and European dishes. Prices are a bit pricy but well worth it. There are large seating areas both smoking and non smoking and 6 outside dining bungalows. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PTALEGBSW Asian new Taj-Mahal Heroiv UPA 77, tel. (+380) 63 223 81 33/ (+380) 32 239 33 99, zakaz@taj-mahal.lviv.ua, tajmahal.lviv.ua. The name is a little misleading as it’s a restaurant in the daytime and a disco at night. There is no Indian food either; however there is a great limited menu with Asian, European, & Ukrainian dishes. The average cost per meal is about 100-150Hr. with the “business lunch” costing 35Hr. Sometimes there are fashion shows held in the Taj Mahal which is very modern with plenty of space. From ThursdaySunday the place becomes a disco after 22:00 and every Friday there is a different theme. QOpen 24hrs. PALV U Kima J-3, Tugan-Baranavskoho 14, tel. (+380) 32 275 66 28. Authentic Korean food with some Ukrainian dishes as well. It is a bit off the beaten track but well worth the effort. There are 3 different dining rooms so it’s ideal for lviv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants private functions. We felt it a bit more pricy then the average restaurant in Lviv, but for Korean food lovers, U Kima is a must! QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. PG Austro-Hungarian Brudershaft I-2, Virmens’ka 16/1, tel. (+380) 32 235 42 43/(+380) 50 822 04 12, www.brudershaft.com.ua. Have you ever wanted to travel back in time 100 years? Here’s your chance. Visit a mini-museum of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. This quaint local is right in the heart of the old centre. On display in one room are costumes, guns and other items and photos. The other room is a “hunting theme” with various a game heads on display. The friendly staff also acts as museum guides. The menu offers unique ‘hunting dishes” and a European cuisine, very reasonably priced.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. A6U Czech Praga (Prague) A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. (+380) 32 260 24 42, www.praga.lviv.ua. The interior of this popular Czech restaurant is decorated in Art Nouveau and is set-off by reproductions of the tastefully provocative art of Alphonse Mucha. An English menu is in the works. For now, just close your eyes, point to an item and you won’t be disappointed. The professional English speaking staff is at your service to help with your selection. Praga knows how to roast (especially pork) and all dishes swim in rich flavour. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTAEGSW European Amadeus C-4, Katedralna pl. 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 50 22. Near the Latin Cathedral - one of the most beautiful Lviv Catholic churches and right in the heart of the city, a covered summer terrace of this popular restaurant catches the eye immediately. With one of the most eclectic menus of Galycia, it’s hard to go wrong and the pork steak Amadeus comes highly recommended. Familiarity in service standards, a fantastic breakfast/brunch menu and a posh but not too over the top atmosphere make this a pop6ular expat haunt. It is also a favourite place of many politicians, businessmen and diplomats. US ambassador to Ukraine likes visiting Amadeus while staying in Lviv. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAB Atmosphera C-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 18, tel. (+380) 32 235 88 99/(+380) 67 313 06 26, www.atmosphera.lviv. ua. For Ukrainians, atmosphere is everything. Current dining trends represent a revolt against the drab stand-up Soviet lunch counters and cafés that were once the only option. Atmosphera offers “creative” Euro cuisine to go with the ultrachic ambiance. The menu features steaks (pork and veal) and intriguing dishes such as Mafaldine pasta with cold smoked salmon, red caviar, cream and parmesan cheese. This venue also houses a business meeting room and a popular pub/ club. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. ESW Casanova C-3, Stavropihiys’ka 7, tel. (+380) 32 236 75 74. Travel back to Venice in the time of Giacomo Girolamo Casanova who was so famous as a womanizer that his name remains synonymous with the art of seduction. This is a combination restaurant-strip club. The outside terrace area (seasonal) appears to be a normal restaurant. Inside, one is stuck with the beauty of early Venice. A great eatery in the day time with erotic shows at night beginning at 23:00. The staff was quite friendly and spoke some English. There is an Italian-European menu with a businessman’s lunch from Monday to Friday for only 45Hr as well as a tourist menu for groups making advanced bookings. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PAIGSW lviv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 23 24 Restaurants Cheap & Quick Acropolis С-3, Ploscha Rynok 44, tel. (+380) 67 463 09 06. This small gem was a great find. It is located on a beautiful square in the centre of the old city. There are only 4 tables so we had to come back and take a chance at a later time. We were glad we did! The menu is limited, but it’s real “Greek Food” at very reasonable prices. We were told that when the weather warms up, they put many tables outside and then they add moussaka and other items to the menu. A great place to eat or just have a drink and spend time with your friends. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. GBW DeMandjaro C-4, Halyts’ka 10, tel. (+380) 32 297 01 71. The selection is quite impressive for a fast food joint. Choose from pizzas, burgers, steaks, shashlyk, potatoes, ice cream, cakes, etc. Items are listed in Ukrainian only, but luckily for us words like “steak”, “burger” and “pizza” don’t need a translation. Though popular with poor students and budget minded families, the entrance and outdoor seating area happens to be on Halyts’ka vul., one of Lviv’s most classy and romantic streets. Also at Staroyevreis’ka 4, Doroshenka 19, prosp. Chervonoi Kalyna 36. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PTAUVGBS Hit-Café A-4, Kryva Lypa prov. 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 67 88. Hit offers up familiar western favourites including pizza, spaghetti and club sandwiches; tempting grill and meat dishes like steaks and kebobs; and a splattering of traditional Ukrainian treats such as borsht and pickled herring under a coat. It’s possible to satisfy your hunger for less than 30Hr under an atmosphere a step up from the standard fast food joint. Also at B-6, Johara Dudaeva 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 17 72; F-4, Kyivs’ka 7, tel. (+380) 32 237 77 67; F-3, Mytropolyta Andreya 8, tel. (+380) 32 237 77 21. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PTA6B Kartopliana Khata D-5, Lychakivs’ka 4-6, tel. (+380) 32 242 05 26. This is a cowboy, Indian and Che Guevara themed fast food joint where patrons can order a baked potato served in small bowl and topped with scrumptious titbits. Burritos, “spicy” wings, barbeque ribs and traditional salads are also on hand. A popular lunch spot, this is a nice choice if you’re in a rush. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PAGS Puzata Khata A-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 12, tel. (+380) 32 244 87 28, www.puzatakhata.kiev.ua. Albeit a low-budget, family-friendly, Puzata Khata has a knack for establishing itself in prime locations. This is true of the Lviv restaurant sandwiched between Svobody prosp. and Ivan Franko National University. All restaurants in this chain offer a satisfying selection of traditional Ukrainian dishes. The interiors are inventive and usually combine a 19th century theme with a touch of local flare. Fill your belly for only a few bucks! QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Also at Horodotska 300 (open 08:00 - 22:00) PAIGS Steak House J-4, Pekars’ka 31, tel. (+380) 32 276 67 06. Steak house is a nice twist on the low budget lunch/dinner counter in that it offers a freshly grilled piece of carcass to go with all the usual ala carte salads and side dishes. There’s no English available so allow us to introduce some vocabulary that will help with your order: for a beef steak say “steak z yalovichini”, for a pork steak “steak z svinini” and for grilled chicken “steak z kuryatini”. Their specialty, the “lambada”, is a massive, spicy pork steak garnished with crisp lettuce, pineapple, sweet peppers and corn. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. S Lviv In Your Pocket Darwin B-3, Shevs’ka 6, 5th floor, tel. (+380) 32 294 82 05. The name Darwin was chosen not only as a tribute to the father of evolutionary theory but as a symbolic statement announcing the embodiment of the evolution and refinement of Lviv’s restaurant scene. Located on the fifth and sixth floor of a renovated historic structure, the elegant atmosphere is framed by enticing views of surrounding ancient roof tops. The menu contains one of the most elaborate seafood selections found in the city with fried dorado, calamari, sea bass and savoury salmon dishes. There’s also an enticingly unique offering of game such as wild boar under cherry sauce and wine basted venison. Being a popular cigar club, the finest smokes are available and smoking is permitted throughout the restaurant. Popular with locals and tourists alike, Darwin tends to be busy on the weekends making advanced booking the way to go. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PW new Del Pesto Siesta Restaurant H-3, T. Kostyushka 6, tel. (+380) 97 461 98 87/(+380) 32 255 00 80, fax (+380) 32 255 00 80, delpesto@mail.ru, delpesto.lviv. ua. This is a very new restaurant and worth visiting. The décor is “comfortable” and one feels immediately at home. The staff is friendly and English speaking. The cuisine is European & Italian with a sushi menu thrown in as in most new places these days (but don’t blame them for that). They also sell special homemade liquor which is quite good. There are 3 rooms, one which is smoking and there is plenty of room for parties and banquets. An average meal costs only about 100Hr, so come take advantage of this oasis before it gets too crowded. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PAGSW Europe C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 14, tel. (+380) 32 261 19 71, www.restourant-europa.com. With its tasteful atmosphere, Europe is perfect for a relaxed or romantic meal. The menu is simple but exquisite; even with the limited selection you’ll have a hard time deciding between the succulent fish, meat and poultry dishes. The wine card and cocktail selection are scanty so go with food on your mind. A minimum bill charge of 250Hr applies for using the private dining area. Located upstairs (watch your step) it can accommodate up to 10, but is lacking in elbow room. Great breakfast specials are available daily. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PTALGBW Fashion Club B-4, Ivana Pidkovy pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 272 88 91. Fashion Club is fronted by one of Svobody prospect’s largest and most popular outdoor seating areas. The ambiance of the restaurant area isn’t quit as fashionable as one might expect, nevertheless, the kitchen is open ‘round the clock’ and whips up a plethora of European: English breakfast for late night partiers/early-birds, Italian antipasto for lunch and T-bone steaks and filet mignon for dinner. The club is located in the back, attracts some of the more talented local DJs and is open nightly from 11:00 to 5:00. No admission fee Monday through Wednesday. Thursday is ladies’ night and Friday through Sunday attracts a diverse and vibrant crowd. QOpen 24 hrs. Garmata H-4, Hrabovs’koho 11, tel. (+380) 32 295 82 22, www.citadel-inn.com.ua. Located at the enthralling Citadel Inn, this elegant restaurant offers an inspiring panorama of Lviv, excellent European cuisine and a spacious dining hall with unforgettable ambiance reminiscent of 19th century Austria. The walls are decorated in various historical themes, and the engrossing decorative rugs display ancient maps of Lviv. Though this is one of Lviv’s romantic hotspots, it is also ideal for banquets, business meetings and hooking up with friends. The citadel’s cannons are fired on special occasions, and a children’s room is also available. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PALGBSW lviv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants lviv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 25 26 Restaurants Brewery Kumpel D-5, Vynnychenka 6, tel. (+380) 32 242 17 80. The centrepiece of this lively restaurant is the two large vats where Kumpel beer is brewed. It’s definitely worth your time to sample all three varieties (dark, light and red). We were particularly impressed by the incredibly fresh and lively light. The menu is loaded with steaks, seafood and beer munchies. For exceptional service, just push the little call button. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAGBS Mons Pius: Beer and Meat C-3, Lesi Ukrainky 14 (Armenian Yard), tel. (+380) 32 235 60 60. Every new Lviv’s thematic restaurant becomes a must see point on the city’s map. And not only for another delicious dish or a Live beer, but for feeling its atmosphere and seeing unique interior. This steak lovers paradise was tricky to find but well worth it. Mons Pius occupies the building of old Armenian Bank, which name the restaurant also took after. The specialties of the knaipa (a kind of a tavern in Ukrainian) are various types of beer and even more various meat dishes. We’ve tried their exclusive draft beer Mons Pius. During the summer days take a seat in a cosy and pleasant courtyard, where small concerts often take place. The service was very pleasant and if you’re interesting as we are in details you’ll be told the fascinating history of Mons Pius. English is spoken and all were friendly and efficient. The menu is in English and offers T-bone steak from 105Hr, soups and salads from 30-60Hr. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGBW Stargorod Brewery D-5, Rymlianyna 1 (Mytna Ploscha), tel. (+380) 32 229 55 05, www.stargorod. net. Don’t let the name fool you! It’s not just a brewery that makes its own traditional “Live” Czech beer. It’s one of the largest restaurants we have ever seen in Ukraine. We were told that between the 2 floors, 300-400 people could be seated at one time. Aside from the “Live” beer, which only lasts 20 minutes after it is taken out of the basement; There is the “Desiatka”-a light beer, the “Lager”- a pils type, and ‘Black”- a dark beer. As for the food, the chef, Radek Koniechny, is a 3rd generation Czech cook. He has also worked in Austria and Germany. So the menu is a combination of a lot of classic dishes from the countries where he has worked. Sports broadcasts can be viewed on 3 big screens and 20 monitors.QOpen 24hrs. PAULEGBW Grand Hotel Restaurant B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. (+380) 32 272 40 91. Known for its attention to detail and service standards that cater specifically to foreign travellers, Grand Hotel Restaurant is perfect for both romantic dinners and lively business luncheons. Ukrainian and European cuisine make up a menu highlighted by the kitchen’s own creations. For a memorable bite of Lviv, try the Grand Hotel pork (stuffed grilled pork served in a coconut milk and pepper sauce) and the Grand Hotel cake (a secret recipe chocolate cake). Located on Lviv’s main strolling prospects, the summer terrace is one of the city’s most popular dining spots. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAULEGBSW Kupava E-2, Komarova 17, tel. (+380) 32 245 03 45, www.kupavahotel.com. The restaurant has to be seen to be believed. It is divided into several sections, extravagantly styled as though being in an old Ukrainian indoor-outdoor hunting lodge. The English menu is reasonably priced with a daily complete menu for 55Hr. The staff was very friendly and helpful. QOpen 24hrs A6LEGBW Lviv In Your Pocket Lev Restaurant B-3, Teatral’na 16, tel. (+380) 32 295 95 15. Everything about the Leopolis Hotel is stunning and superior, and the hotel’s restaurant is no exception. Amazingly, this could be the best value for hryvnia in town. In the west, when we go out for a cream-of-the-crop experience we expect to pay cream-of-the-crop prices; you’ll be shocked at how affordable this place really is. Highlights include a Carpathian meat kebab, juicy mushroom risotto, rich lamb chops and a zesty sea bass. Servers are well acquainted with western standards and speak fluent English. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PA6IEGSW Livyi Bereh H-2, Svobody prosp. 28 (Opera House base- ment), tel. (+380) 67 443 33 63/(+380) 50 430 53 85. Walking on the rickety bridges going over an underground river was reminiscent of the Disney attraction “Pirates of the Caribbean”. Once inside, the theme is “Opera” with old posters of past Ukrainian & European singers everywhere. The décor is basically surrealistic and should be seen to be believed. There is a limited menu of European & Ukrainian cuisine at an average cost of 130-150Hr. There are starters, soups, salads, burgers, and dishes of chicken, fish, and tasty steaks. A real experience! QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PTAESW Maestro Restaurant-Lounge bar H-2, Lazneva 3A, tel. (+380) 32 225 00 16/(+380) 67 310 48 47, maestroclub@i.ua, www.maestro.lviv.ua. A spacious modern establishment in a small park, just a short stroll from the Opera. The cuisine is international and superb with an average meal costing 250Hr.The restaurant offers live music nightly from 19:00 - 23:00. On Fridays & Saturdays everything changes and the restaurant becomes a trendy disco till the wee hours of the morning. Inside there is seating for 150 and there are plans for an outside terrace this spring. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Naydorozhcha Restoratsiya Halychyny (The Most Expensive Galician Restaurant) C-4, Rynok pl. 14, tel. (+380) 50 430 87 83. At first we thought that the word “Expensive” was a mistranslation, but then we opened the menu…Don’t be frightened by the prices, if you show interest in the restaurant’s Masonic theme, your waiter is likely to give you a “10 times cheaper” discount card. Besides, we are convinced that the food and fascinating ambiance are well worth the insane prices. As we entered, an attendant dressed us in the Masonic apron, and then introduced this fascinating cult. It was quite revealing how influential the Masons have been in shaping world history. Benjamin Franklin, George Washington, Abraham Lincoln, Peter the Great and local heroes Mykhailo Hrushevsky and Ivan Franko were all Masons. This place is brimming with fascinating symbolism, relics and tales, and the menu ain’t bad either. The European fare drips with authenticity; this is perhaps the only place in town where you can find a classic Caesar salad. The centrepiece is an antique piano on which a pianist performs Friday - Sunday from 20:00 - 23:00. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €€€. PAGW Nostalgia C-4, Serbska 6, tel. (+380) 32 272 77 50. This is actually a proper restaurant located on a side street from the market square. (Ploshcha Rynok).There is a comfortable atmosphere this candle lit two room restaurant. The interior is as the name suggests nostalgic and deemed reminiscent of France in the early 1900’ss. The staff is friendly and try to communicate in English There is an English menu which lists many Ukrainian and international dishes or let’s say their own variation of Dutch, French, German, and Spanish dishes; Liver Berlin style, Chicken Curry Madrid way, Salmon French style, and Jerusalem carp, just to name a few. Exotic appetisers include tongue, brain, and Dutch Fondue. There is also a very busy banquet room. Prices are very reasonable and it is a great place to visit. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGW lviv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants lviv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 27 28 Restaurants Shakespeare Lyubins’ka 144, tel. (+380) 32 295 52 95, fax (+380) 32 295 48 68, info@shekspir.lviv.ua, www.shekspir.lviv.ua. Shakespeare fans - this is for you! A restaurant dedicated to the Bard. Located near the airport, with lovely gardens, and outdoor dining bungalows, it is an experience worth having. The staff is dressed in kilts and the menu caters to many nationalities. There are 2 large dining rooms with smoking and non-smoking areas. They even sell copies of Shakespeare’s greatest works! QOpen 08:00 00:00. PA6UILEGBSW The Lion’s Castle G-5, Glinky 7, tel. (+380) 32 238 61 16, www.lioncastlehotel.com/en. Located in the basement of the Lion’s Castle Hotel, the reasonable prices and Jewish Pid Zolotoiu Rozoyu C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 48, near the Synagogue, tel. (+380) 32 236 75 53. This Jewish restaurant is located downhill from the ruins of the Golden Rose Synagogue, the oldest synagogue in Ukraine. The outdoor seating is exceptional and helps make this a dining hotspot. Here are a few things to know before you go. 1. There are no prices listed on the menu as you are expected to barter. Being a foreigner, they’re likely to just quote you a reasonable price. 2. For the right price you can secretly arrange to have your waiter smuggle in some pork dishes. How kosher is this place? 3. They offer a fantastic selection of salads, vegetable dishes, Galician desserts and traditional Jewish breads. 4. For a taste of Lviv you’ll never forget, try the homemade vodka. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. A Lviv In Your Pocket large portions justify the 20 minute walk from old town. The juicy Lion’s Castle pork special, for example, is a whopping 450 grams and will set you back a mere ten bucks. There’s enough variety on the menu to appeal to just about everyone. Creamy soups, crêpes and salmon dishes are particularly appealing. The breakfast buffet is popular with hotel guests, so arrive early if you’re hoping to get a good seat. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PALG Trapezna I-3, Valova 18A, tel. (+380) 32 295 69 68, fax (+380) 32 254 61 55, idem.org@gmail.com, www. idem.org.ua. The meaning of Trapenza is “monks eating room”. Located in the cellar of a former monastery, this is really traditional Ukrainian food at its best with low prices. The menu is in a metal book and in English. Drinks are served in old wooden cups and sometimes one hears the Ghost walking about late at night! There is also an adjoining art gallery and outside seating as well. A real experience! QOpen 11:00 23:00. T6GBW new Try Mitly (Three Brooms) I-2, Yavors’koho 1, tel. (+380) 32 236 75 55/(+380) 67 374 50 04. Don’t be surprised if Harry Potter or one of his companions is standing in the doorway. The theme is Harry Potter through and through. It is basically a family restaurant with costumes & magic wands given to children to use during their stay. There are copies of some of the props used in the films, and there is memorabilia scattered throughout. There are lessons given in wizardry and many HP fans visit from abroad. The food is prepared by an elf and the dishes all have names related to wizardry & sorcery (soon in English). An average meal goes for about 100-150Hr. Seating for 30+. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. lviv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants lviv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 29 30 Restaurants Georgian Staryi Tiflis (Old Tbilisi) J-3, Pekars’ka 28, tel. (+380) 32 276 61 11. Georgians are known throughout Eastern Europe as masters of the grill, and the chefs at Staryi Tiflis uphold this stereotype. Chicken wings, lamb, pork, veggies and even beef tongue are all roasted to perfection over open flames. Whenever pouring snifters of cognac, a friend of ours from Tbilisi likes to joke, “It’s always useful to keep a bottle of French or Armenian cognac around the house - you need something to clean the glasses out before pouring the good Georgian stuff.” Indeed, Georgians are extremely proud of their cognac and aromatic wines, and Staryi Tiflis has some of the better brands on hand. They also keep some French and Armenian behind the bar in case you notice some spots on your glass. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAVGSW Mediterranean Nobilis I-3, Fredra 5, tel. (+380) 32 295 84 14/ (+380) 32 295 84 16, www.nobilis-hotel.com.ua. This first class restaurant offers a gourmet blend of tantalizing Mediterranean cuisine and signature local dishes, which are certain to delight your taste sensations and surpass your expectations. An average meal will run about 200-250Hr. The menu is in English and the staff is warm and friendly and speak English well. The restaurant also offers romantic private dinners, and bookings can be made for conferences, banquets, and weddings. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Breakfast hours: Mon-Fri: 07:00 - 10:30, Sat-Sun 08:00 - 11:30. PALEGSW Lviv In Your Pocket Veronika C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 21, tel. (+380) 32 298 60 28, www.veronika.lviv.ua. On a day when most eateries were deserted, Veronika only had a couple tables available in the basement. But you wouldn’t be surprised if you know that Veronika is the oldest and probably the best city confectionery. Sweets made by old Austrian-Hungarian recipes are really delicious. You won’t find any other confectionary in Lviv with such a wide selection of candies, biscuits and cakes. Menu of the restaurant (it is in the lower part of institution) is mostly European with some Ukrainian and a sprinkling of other world favourites. The “plump” menu of the restaurant includes vegetarian dishes, breakfasts, seafood, meat, desserts. Choose from four varieties of fondue, an impressive selection of fish dishes and mouth watering breads and desserts baked fresh on site. With western classics such as the European breakfast croissant with ham and veggies, this is winning choice for breakfast. Vine map contains best French, Italian, Spanish, Australian, Argentinian, North American and Chilly vines. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AGBS Vezha Kramariv (Merchant Tower) B-3, Svobody prosp. 16-18, tel. (+380) 32 272 39 39. While feasting in this restaurant’s tower, it’s easy to imagine what supper would have been like at the home of a medieval merchant. On the third floor you’ll find bear skin rugs, a stuffed beaver, a jack-a-lope minus the horns and other sorted items, which add to the motif. The summer terrace is one of the most popular warm-weather spots on Svobody. The Dutch KaasDoop fondue is large enough feed a small partisan army, the barbeque items are in high demand and the chef’s original creations - such as the salmon steak stewed with sour cream, apples and bananas - are definitely stimulating. We sampled the stewed pork (tasty, but a bit on the greasy side) and the baked veal medallions (tender and served with a mouth-watering compliment of fresh vegetables). QOpen 24hrs. PTAIGBW lviv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Vintage C-4, Staroyevreys’ka 25-27, Vintage Hotel, tel. (+380) 32 235 68 34, www.vintagehotel.com.ua. Though selective, the menu holds nothing back. Start with the spicy Thai veal salad or Mediterranean salad with salmon and red caviar, drown you taste buds in the seafood goulash soup or pot-au-feu, then savour the Carpathian trout in an olive and caper sauce or slurp down some pasta with your choice of the chef’s signature sauces. Like the hotel, the restaurant is quaint but classy and the hidden wine cellar is an absolute gem. With seating for up to eight, it’s a perfect place to unwind and sample a select vintage from the hotel’s collection. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. AGBW French Eurohotel Restaurant J-4, Tershakivtsiv 6A, Euroho- tel, tel. (+380) 32 275 51 73. From the traditional leafy French salad with salmon and crayfish, to club sandwiches and the chef’s special Richelieu soup, everything on the menu fits right in. Indeed, this is a classy upgrade from the hotel’s previous restaurant. The veal filet in truffle sauce, the certified Angus T-bone and salmon penne are tempting, but the grilled lamb plate for four is where it’s at. With tiramisu, strudel and cheesecake all on the menu, they didn’t make your dessert selection an easy one. The affordable breakfast buffet starts up early, the VIP room seats eight and banquets can be booked for up to 50. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PALG Halytska Restoratsiaya na Valoviy D-4, Valova 25, tel. (+380) 32 272 59 73. You can always tell how refined a restaurant is by the number of forks set near the plate: this place had four. The dining area is decorated with classic prints and exciting original paintings by local artists. The chef’s dedication to flavour, aroma and presentation is tremendous; go with the understanding that quality takes time, and that all available Galician and European dishes are well worth the wait. The menu’s highlights include one of the city’s best seafood selections, Hungarian style veal goulash and the Lviv pie, which is so sophisticated it must be ordered 24hrs in advance. Private celebrations can be booked for up to 40. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAUIEGS Italian Bianco Rosso B-4, Svobody prosp. 6-8, tel. (+380) 32 235 54 44. Pretty much the real thing! And right in the Centre! The Italian chef, Angelo even brought his own pasta machine with him! The décor is something like ‘Art Deco” and the background music is actually enjoyable and not something one has to shout over to be heard. The menu comes in English and serves a wide variety of Italian and European cuisine and is not that expensive. The staff was very friendly and spoke English. Breakfast is from 08:30-11:30. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PTA6GBSW La Piazza A-3, Svobody prosp. 27, tel. (+380) 32 295 88 14. La Piazza is located on the top floor of the luxurious fashion gallery Opera Passage. This pizza&pasta bar has the unique concept and authentic Italian cuisine. It offers 17 types of original pizza for all tastes, 16 kinds of pasta dishes, original Italian antipasti, delicious desserts, opportunity to watch the process of cooking. Our choice was soup of the day (it changes each day) for 15Hr. But the most attractive thing there is its atmosphere. It is friendly and cosy and just what you need for either family/friends lunch or business meeting. During a lunch time (11:00 - 14:00) from Monday until Friday take a chance to get a fat and delicious lunch for only 33Hr. For this unbelievable price you’ll be offered pasta, soup or salad and drink. Among other special offers there is coffee and lviv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 31 32 Restaurants desert for 25Hr during the week days from 14:00 until 16:00. For cocktail lovers La Piazza offers a 30% discount every night (21:00 - 23:30). QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PGSW Valentino C-5, Ostapa Nyzhankivs’koho 20, tel. (+380) 32 274 50 61, www.valentino.lviv.ua. Valentino fills in the gaps left by many of Lviv’s restaurants, i.e. the Italian chef has put together a stunning menu of authentic favourites. Renown for their extensive wine card, the classic atmosphere and scrumptious cuisine make this an obvious choice for those with Italian on their minds. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 02:00. PTAEGSW Japaneese Sushi Kappo-IN D-6, Levyts’koho 8, tel. (+380) 32 245 31 09. Sushi Kappo’s ultra-relaxing atmosphere literally put me to sleep; the charming waitress had to startle me awake in order to keep me from falling face first into the plate. The previous night had been a wild one (as is often the case in Lviv) and Kappo’s zesty selection of sushi was just what the doctor ordered. Located on the edge of centre, it’s well worth the 10 minute walk. QOpen 10:30 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PLVGS Yapi B-4, Svobody prosp. 6/8, tel. (+380) 32 272 28 01, www.egoisty.com. This “Sushi Island” is uniquely designed with a large Sushi and Japanese menu. Staff is helpful and Englsih speaking. We found the music a bit too loud for a restaurant, otherwise it was great! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGBS Pizza Yapona Hata C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 297 51 17, www.yaponahata.com. The name suggests a Japanese take on the Ukrainian “khatas” that dominate the country‘s low budget dining market. We were understandably surprised by the relatively high prices, but (as we say in the West) you get what you pay for. The location is exceptional and the inventive sushi choices more than justify the blow to your wallet. QOpen 24hrs. PAGBSW Ukrainian Dim Legend D-4, Staroyevreis’ka 48, tel. (+380) 67 670 38 28, info@lokal.lviv.ua, www.lokal.lviv.ua. This restaurant-café has become something of a legend in Lviv. It is located on 7 small floors with a real ‘Trabi’ sitting on the roof top terrace with a great view of old Lviv. Each floor has a different theme telling the story of liviv. One room has the clocks, another depicting the lions of Liviv, another tunnels, etc. No visit to Lviv is complete without stopping here! QOpen 11:00 - 02:00.. Garbuz I-3, Ivana Franka 15, tel. (+380) 32 225 51 51, www.garbuz.lviv.ua. No time to wait for a meal? The Garbuz is a lovely place to get ready made food. It is very delicious, of good quality, and inexpensive. One cannot miss it; the front door is very unusual, like opening a giant pumpkin. This restaurant has its own original style; with massive oak tables, metal made into whimsical lamps, and the royal chairs. It is actually an indescribable design. We strongly suggest viewing the web site. At lunch time, the tempo moves quickly. In the evening it is another story. The Pumpkin is transformed into a cosy pub with fresh draft beer and a lots of TV monitors for sports fans. In fact, a large room with a giant TV is already in place for the 2012 football championship games. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PAEGW Celentano C-6, Kniazia Romana 7, tel. (+380) 32 235 56 84, www.pizza-celentano.com. This established pizzeria chain champions democracy by granting patrons the choice of their own favourite toppings from a wide range of possibilities. Various salads, crêpes with different fillings and pasta dishes are also on offer. Do the roof of your mouth a favour and let the extremely hot pizza cool before consumption. Friendly service and speedy delivery have become this in-and-out pizzeria’s trademarks. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Also at Kopernika 9; prosp. Svobody 24; Slovatskoho 16; Volodymyra Velykoho 123; Vyhovskoho 47a; Horodotska 141. PGBS Hors C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 5, tel. (+380) 32 235 41 57, New York Street Pizza A-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 5, tel. (+380) 32 272 27 57/(+380) 32 260 19 43, fax (+380) 32 260 16 43, www.pizza-nys.com.ua. When I asked for onions on my pizza the server looked at me as if I had a second head growing out of my ear. “Onions on pizza? Don’t be ridiculous.” I rescanned the toppings list to make sure I wasn’t the butt of a practical joke. Indeed…no onions. You can top your pie with imitation crab sticks and corn, but no onions. I settled for salami and mushrooms and it turned out to be quite tasty. Though “Ukrainian” Street Pizza would be a more fitting name, this is a nice pick for those in a hurry and short of cash. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Also at Tershakivtsiv 5; Volodymyra Velykoho 5; Chervonoyi Kalyny 31; Patona 37; Stefanyka 4; Henerala Chuprynky 36; Sviatoho Teodora 2. PGBS International Varenyky Fund (IVF) C-3, Katedralna pl. 3, tel. (+380) 32 235 70 96. Currently, IVF is a bit tricky to find. My hippy aunt, still suffering acid flashbacks, may well have been the interior decorator. Pelmeni are ordered individually, and go for 142 kopeks per unit. Varenyky come stuffed with a variety of tasty fillings including mashed potatoes, cheese, cabbage and cherries. Many of the main dishes are priced per 100 gram so ask the server for approximate size in order to avoid confusion when the bill arrives. Menus in English are available upon request. Also at A-3, Furmans’ka 6, tel. (+380) 32 225 58 86. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Pizzeria La Grotta B-3, Krakivska 9, tel. (+380) 32 276 60 69. Stepping into La Grotta we almost thought we were in Italy. Before our very eyes was a real Italian stone pizza oven. The piazza was delicious and there is also a wide range of traditional Ukrainian cuisine. The menu is in English and the staff is very friendly and helpful. Very reasonable prices! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGB Lviv In Your Pocket www.hors.com.ua. Hors was the Slavic god of the winter sun whom ancient Lvivian pagans associated with healing and survival. The stairs leading to the restaurant have been described as “fifteen stairs to the 15th century”. You are not entering a basement, this is actually a renovated section of an ancient catacomb and the rocks that line the base of the arched walls were set in the 15th century. The unique mysterious atmosphere is definitely worth checking out, but don’t get too distracted as the menu offers its own intrigue with items like salmon with spinach, steaks and dishes dedicated to the Slavic gods. Live music is performed Thursday-Sunday. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGW Kentavr C-3, Rynok pl. 34, tel. (+380) 322 72 05 12. Kentavr is the mythical god with the head and torso of a man and body of a horse. Oddly enough, Kentavr has no connection to this restaurant or its cuisine, but it is a pretty kick-butt mascot. The dining area has a laid back atmosphere with inspiring paintings, some of which are the work of local painters and can be purchased. Ukrainian and European dominate the menu. Varenyky, pork dishes of all shapes and sizes and savoury fish dishes are some of the highlights. Rich desserts, such as the chocolate “Praga” cake, four types of strudel and cheesecake, go great with the specialty teas, which arrive to the table in fancy pots. Brunch is served daily from 11:00-13:00. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PALEGSW lviv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Khmilnyi Dim Roberta Domsa G-2, Kleparivs’ka 18, tel. (+380) 32 242 25 94, www.robertdoms.lviv.ua. Robert Doms, an aristocratic young Swiss man, brought his brewing talent to Lviv Brewery in the 1850s. Every morning a young Lvivian maiden named Zosia would bring Robert a five litre tankard of the previous day’s brew, which he would guzzle (a crude but effective means of quality control). With the help of his extremely thick beer-goggles, Robert soon fell in love and married Zosia. The pub, located in one of Lvivske Brewery’s cellars (a 15 minute walk from centre) is a fitting tribute to Rob’s contribution to Lviv’s beer industry and to his and Zosia’s touching romantic tale. The energy here is unmatched in Lviv and live music echoes through the cellar’s halls nightly. With hearty Ukrainian meals served for up to six, the fantastic menu encourages a communal dining experience. Who knows, guzzle enough fresh brew and you too might hook-up with your own Zosia. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. AEGS Medivnia B-3, Krakivska 17, tel. (+380) 32 272 91 41. The name Medivnia translates “Honey Brewery”. It is located in the heart of the old city. The interior design is fascinating, with pictures, and artifacts of “old Ukraine”. There are several rooms and the total seating capacity is 70. The cuisine is a large variety of traditional Ukrainian dishes, meat, poultry, fish, and vegetables. The Ukrainian ribs with honey sauce was delicious! There is an English menu, though it takes some effort to understand the “Ukrainian-English”. It was a lot of fun actually as the server was very friendly. We forgot something at our table, and the server went out of his way to find someone who could speak English and had them call the number on my business card. This doesn’t happen that often in Ukraine. The house speciality is called “medovukha”, an alcoholic drink steeped in natural honey and herbs, which has been brewed the same way since the 18th century. It was the traditional brew drunk by the Cossacks. Medivnia has very reasonable prices and is a place we would love to return to. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PAGB Panska Charka I-3, Vynnychenka 3, tel. (+380) 32 235 53 91/(+380) 97 205 48 41, fax (+380) 32 235 62 09, panskacharka@ukr.net. A lovely Ukrainian restaurant with inside and outside seating. The specialty is ‘home made’ liquors made from honey, fruit, herbs and even horse radish. The staff was extremely friendly and the English menu has traditional Ukrainian food, one can even order a boars head for that special large gathering of friends. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAEGBSW Porokhova Vezha D-3, Pidval’na 4, tel. (+380) 32 276 51 62. This popular eatery can be a bit tricky to find. It’s located across the street from the Dominican Cathedral in the ancient looking fortress with the two smirking lions perched on the steps. Enter through the north side. Locals and travellers alike are attracted by the reasonable priced Ukrainian favourites and snug atmosphere perfect for enjoying a glass of wine. The summer terrace with shashlyk grill is a popular cooling-off/filling-up point for hikers ascending and descending Vysokyi Zamok Mount. English is in short supply, but the servers are charming and patient (they’ve seen your kind before). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. GBS Salo Restaurant & Museum B-4, Svobody prosp. 6-8, tel. (+380) 32 235 55 36, www.artsalo.com. Salo is a bit like a museum, but more like a contemporary art space. In the restaurant area you’ll be offered a Salo Art Menu which contains some uniquely sculptured forms of salo. (FYI-Salo is pure pig fat, a Ukrainian delicacy) We liked the chocolate covered salo! There is live music, DJ or something going on every Saturday. One can also order from the menus of neighbouring Bianco Rosso and Yappi restaurants. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. PA6ESW lviv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 33 CAFés 34 Welcome to Ukraine’s coffee capital! Life for Lvivians revolves around the café, and it’s no wonder that there is an endless selection of establishments to choose from. Indeed, it’s theoretically possible to visit a different café everyday and never see the same place twice. No matter where you end up, you’re sure to find a charming atmosphere, rich aromatic coffee and a loaded menu. The city also boasts a variety of must-visit theme cafés that brilliantly introduce and preserve the city’s diverse history and culture. If you’re a coffee lover, you’ve come to the right place. For those that are indifferent, prepare to get hooked. Alekstra C-6, Kniazia Romana 7, tel. (+380) 32 225 63 09. Alekstra is popular for its extensive mix of Ukrainian and original fare, and the fresh baked cakes, cookies and original sweets are covered. This is a good choice if you’re looking to unwind with a pot of tea or cup of coffee. The ambiance is typical, as is the quiet outdoor seating, pop music and Fashion TV. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTUGB Arsenalska café I-3, Arsenalska 7, tel. (+380) 32 242 50 71. Walking in the centre and fancy a quick snack? This café is conveniently located and is a must for pastry lovers! Delicious cakes and thick crusty pies, both sweet & savory-are all made on premises. There is also a limited yet reasonably priced menu of Western Ukrainian cuisine. There is seating for 30 with WIFI. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. new Art Body Coffee Club I-3, Dudayeva 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 17 72/(+380) 96 817 62 03, www.artbody. lviv.ua. The Art Body is truly a unique experience. One is greeted at the door by Nigel the python who is available for photo sessions. There are sketch pads, easels, paint and brushes for would be artists, and an open piano for those who wish to entertain. There is always a photo exhibition and sometimes there are literary readings. The menu is European with many original dishes with an average price of just100Hr. If you don’t see what you want, just describe it, and they will do their best to prepare it! Take out or delivery is available and the Business lunch costs only 40Hr. There are discounts for those with body art. There are smoking & non smoking sections. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Backerei-café “Videnski bulochky” B-4, I-4, Katedralna pl. 3, tel. (+380) 32 235 88 22, videnski.bulochky@gmail. com. A deluxe bakery featuring honey cookies and deserts made from barley flour. There is a wide variety of French and Viennese pastries. A lovely place for an afternoon coffee and snack. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. PAGSW Café 1 C-4, Kathedral’na pl. 5, tel. (+380) 32 242 33 69. The smell of fermented grapes is sure to perk your nostrils as you enter this small but inviting café. The focus here is wine, and the simple yet delectable dishes such as ravioli and quiche Loraine compliment the full-bodied reds and delicate whites. Ideally located in the heart of the old town, tables can sometimes be hard to find, but any wait is well worth it. Wonderful English speaking service is available. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ALGB Charivnyi Likhtar (Magic Lantern) C-4, Ivana Fe- dorova 12, tel. (+380) 32 235 74 61, www.kawa.lviv. ua/en/. The Magic Lantern is located on a picturesque square near the Dominican Cathedral. The establishment bears a part of ancient Lviv with a cosy atmosphere. The name derives from a legend in the middle ages. It is a Romeo and Juliet type of story with monks from the cloister leading the young lovers with a lantern underground to get married against the wishes of others. An important part of the interior is the stylized lanterns and cobble stones. It’s an outdoor cafe, but inside! The menu is in English and reasonably priced. It includes an exquisite variety of more than 50 sorts of the coffee made from original recipes, some with alcohol. For tea lovers this is heaven, nearly 100 items to choose from. There are more than 15 sorts of black tea, over 15 of green tea. Desserts include cakes, ice cream, and chocolates in abundance. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PUG Coffee in Leopolis A-4, Kryva Lypa prov. 9, tel. (+380) 32 297 50 61. With a great location and mellow mood, this coffee house attracts a diverse crowd: giggly high school girls, buttoned-down business types, mom and pop and even wannabe radicals all feel at home here. Choose from coffee and beer cocktails, light snacks and rich desserts. The vanilla cappuccino and steaming hot ham and cheese crêpes go great with a cold day. Don’t forget the beans to go on your way out the door. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAEGBW Cukiernia C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 3, tel. (+380) 32 274 09 49, www.cukiernia.com.ua. The menu opens with a quote from an unknown author “...only the sweet eaters are considered to be the most important members of society.” Indeed, with a name like Cukiernia (sweet shop) you’re guaranteed to leave with a sugar buzz. They don’t miss a page from babushka’s cookbook and bake up everything from cakes and rolls to strudels, pastries and cookies. The tasty selection of crêpes and the Viennese breakfast make this a hotspot for brunch. Local kids swarm like ravenous bees in the early afternoon for ice cream, sundaes and shakes. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AS 57 78/(+380) 67 494 00 22, www.blackcoffee.lviv.ua. A lovely café-restaurant right on the main square in the “Old City”. There are lots of choices of coffee to choose from while you read your morning paper or have one of the 16 breakfasts offered. There is also a “business lunch” for 40Hr from 12-16 which we found quite filling. The regular menu is in English with European and Ukrainian cuisine and reasonably priced. The staff is friendly and speaks some English. QOpen 09:00 23:00. PAGBSW Frantsishka B-3, Krakivs’ka 18, tel. (+380) 32 255 08 96. Frantsishka’s mellow atmosphere is perfect for washing away the previous night’s regret(s). Milk cocktails and the most extensive selection of tea in the city calm the upset stomach and sooth thumping headaches. A small yet inviting selection of cakes and sweets are on hand to compliment the thick aromatic coffee. The only problem kicked in when the chirpy overtly bright yellow canary began to serenade the coffee grinder. Our initial impulse was to strangle them both, but we quickly fell back into the calming mood and all was well. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. UGBS Cabinet D-4, Vynnychenka 12, tel. (+380) 32 272 05 12. Gasova Lyampa C-3, Virmens’ka 20, tel. (+380) 32 235 Black Coffee I-2, I-3, Rynok pl. 30, tel. (+380) 32 235 Cabinet is the embodiment of Lviv’s coffee culture: laid-back, intelligent and delicious. The defining feature is the quaint library, which contains a small selection of works in English (mostly guides and souvenir coffee table books). The coffee is distinctively rich and the offering of Ukrainian cuisine hearty. This is a perfect pit-stop for those perusing the area’s numerous sites of interest including the Arsenal Museum, the Dominican Cathedral and the Assumption Church. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AW Lviv In Your Pocket 75 50. To find this fascinating eatery, head up Virmens’ka until you see the unmistakable bronze statue of a dude sitting next to a lamp. This is Ignacy Łukasiewicz, founder of the Polish oil industry and inventor of the kerosene lamp. The restaurant/museum housed within is a tribute to the mark he left on history. (An interesting side note: Łukasiewicz was not a resident of Lviv by choice, but was exiled here by Austrian authorities wary of his membership in a Polish revolutionary organisation.) The scene is always energised and the menu lviv.inyourpocket.com cafés Italiys’kyi Dvoryk (Italian Yard) C-3, Rynok pl. 6, tel. Lviv’s Chocolate Workshop C-4, Serbs’ka 3, tel. (+380) 50 430 60 33, www.chocolate.lviv.ua. This lovely chocolate shop is easy to find as there is always a crowd looking through the window and gathering at the small sales stall on this quaint walking street in the heart of the old city. Legend has it that Chocolate from Lviv was well known from the middle ages. In the 19th century, chocolate was exported from Liviv to aristocracy throughout Europe. There is a small café at the entrance where there are many flavours of hot chocolate and coffee to choose. All the chocolate candies made here can be sampled before you go to the shop. Milkshakes, ice cream, cakes and snacks are awaiting you as well. Also on the ground floor, one can view the actual workshop where these delicacies are made. We saw a group of school children on a tour, complete with protective clothing, gloves and head gear actually making their own chocolate! Souvenirs and toys are made of chocolate and purchases can be shipped from here world-wide. This is truly a unique experience and a must for chocolate lovers of all ages! QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. PAGBSW Johnny Rocker Lychakivs’ka 3, tel. (+380) 32 260 24 Lvivska Kopalna Kavy (Lviv’s Coffee Mine) I-3, Rynok pl. 10, tel. (+380) 67 670 61 06, www.fest.lviv.ua. At the entrance one sees a conveyer belt bringing up coffee from the underground coffee mine. So of course we jumped at the chance to go on a tour of this mine far beneath the streets of Lviv. Downstairs, we go to the mine entrance where we put on a miners hat with a lamp and a rather heavy battery pack. We then journey through the dim mine, avoiding the wagons of freshly mined coffee. We stop along the way at little pockets where we sample various spiced coffee. It was quite an experience. Back up stairs there is a regular coffee shop with really yummy cakes and cookies. There is also a “coffee souvenir and gift shop” and an adjacent “city and museum souvenir shop”. Definitely worth the visit! QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. items, especially the fish dishes, won’t leave you indifferent. This is yet another great addition to the city’s captivating theme scene. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. NS Gloria Jean’s Coffees C-5, I-3, Mickiewicza pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 297 02 97, www.gloriajeanscoffees.com. ua. Established over 30 years ago, Gloria Jean‘s Coffees has become a global icon with stores in over 30 countries. Matt Damon greeted us at the door! There is a very large screen TV that confronts one at the entrance. They like to play recent Hollywood films. The sound though is a lovely blend of music played throughout the café. It is something that is actually a pleasure to listen to! The menu is in English and the staff makes a real effort to communicate in English as well. Wi-Fi is available and something that is pretty rare in Ukraine, a completely sealed off smoking area. No second hand smoking here. Tired of the plastic-cup swill served at the kiosk? Gloria Jean‘s Coffees is famous for it‘s coffee-to-go! QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PAGBXSW (+380) 32 297 53 66. This romantic hotspot is located within the Kornjakt Palace on Rynok ploshca (Market Square). Lvivians, visitors to the palace’s museum and random pedestrians are magnetically drawn to this open-air coffee lover’s oasis. Completely severed from the complexities of the outside world, the carved stone and shaded balconies reek of Italian Renaissance. Mellow music, delectable fragrances and stunning art and architecture make for a truly special café experience. The coffee is rich and tasty. Throughout the summer patrons beat the heat by sipping frosty beers, cool cocktails and frothy milkshakes. If it all looks familiar, you’ve probably seen this courtyard in one of the many local and foreign films that shot scenes here. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 1Hr. UEB 76, www.johnnyrocker.com.ua. A basement pub for the university crowd with live rock concerts from local Lviv groups. There is a wide variety of cocktails on offer and a limited menu of European cuisine with an average cost of 75Hr. QOpen 12:00 - 2:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 5:00. PAEGSW Kryjivka C-4, Rynok pl. 14, tel. (+380) 32 254 61 18/ (+380) 95 260 45 46, fax (+380) 322 54 61 18, www. kryjivka.com.ua. When the uniformed guard opens the peephole to this theme café/restaurant and says “Slava Ukraini” (Glory to Ukraine), that’s your cue to respond “Heroyam slava” (Glory to its heroes). This was the greeting used by soldiers of the Ukrainian Insurgent Army (UPA) as they waged guerrilla war against the Nazis, Poles and Soviet Union from 1943-49. It’s also your ticket past the guard. Once inside, you’ll find a fascinating and jovial bunker complete with grenades, rifles and other military antiques. Just as the UPA was immensely popular in Lviv, so is this eatery dedicated to the memory of their sacrifice. Tables can be scarce, so book ahead. Traditional Ukrainian dishes and spirits add to what is certain to be a lasting memory of your visit to Lviv. QOpen 24hrs. AW Kvartyra 35 (Flat 35) C-3, Virmens’ka 35, tel. (+380) 32 297 56 12. This hipster hangout is located above Pid Klepsydroyu café (you actually order off the same menu). The feature that sets this snug loft apart is the live Jazz featured just about every night. We arrived late Saturday afternoon and a jazz pianist was already pounding the keys. Some locals had smuggled in litres of beer in plastic bottles, but this is blatantly unnecessary. The menu has everything you need and then some. We had a cappuccino and a feri-fire (flaming rum doused with an espresso) and did our best to blend with intellectuals, artists and university kids trying hard not to fit in. Seating is limited, but it’s worth waiting for a free table. Once settled, you’re likely to discover swift and cheery service. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Admission 40Hr on Thursdays. PALEGSW lviv.inyourpocket.com Mapa C-4, Halyts’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 272 55 69, www. mapa.lviv.ua. This a logical launching point for your romp around Lviv. Not only do they offer tasty treats and desserts, you can also order maps, atlases and sightseeing booklets in Ukrainian, Polish and English. Plan your day while sipping coffee or tea in the comfy interior or on the trendy veranda. Service is friendly and in English. The cakes are flavourful but don’t be fooled by their recognisable names, i.e. the “tiramisu” is actually chocolate cake with a cream cheese filling. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PTAGBW Masoch Café C-4, Serbs’ka 7, tel. (+380) 32 272 18 72, www.masoch-cafe.com.ua. This titillating theme café/ restaurant is dedicated to writer and original freak Leopold Ritter von Sacher-Masoch who was born in Lviv in 1836. Masoch enjoyed playing the role of the slave and insisted that his dominatrixes wear furs. In fact, the word masochism was coined from his name. The menu, which can be purchased as a souvenir (in Ukrainian only), is loaded with fabulous and unusual dishes. If your husband is having difficulties deciding on a meal, he’s probably too distracted by the pornography that appears on the menu and you should order for him. He’s sure to appreciate the bull’s testicles in an oil and sweet pepper sauce. They boast the best fondue in town and the waitresses will handcuff and whip you free of charge. On your way out the door, don’t forget to reach into Leopold’s pocket for this café’s version of a fortune cookie. QOpen 11:00 01:00. PABSW Medelin Koliyivshchiny pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 235 40 45. The odor of cinnamon really hits one on entering this quaint little café. There is a mellow atmosphere with many varieties of coffee and tea. Very friendly service with Fluent English spoken. A great chill-out place! QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. TA6GSW Spring 2012 35 36 cafés Nightlife Na Bambetli C-4, Rynok pl. 29, tel. (+380) 32 235 45 44, www.nabambetli.com. A cosy café located in the former Andriolli passage where according to local history, the first confectioner’s shop in Lviv was opened. There is no English menu and a Ukrainian speaking companion is advised unless you are ok with hand signals. It has a somewhat French design with special lighting that gives it a romantic atmosphere. There is a good selection of coffee, chocolate, ice cream, and beer. There are also some sandwiches available. The music being played while we were there was actually enjoyable as were the prices. Discounts are available for groups. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PGW Pid Klepsydroyu D-3, Virmens’ka 35, tel. (+380) 32 297 56 12, www.dzyga.com. This trendy café is located where the sidewalk ends on Virmens’ka vul. We went on a Friday night and had to wait 20 minutes for a table. The main hall and upstairs seating are cosy and buzz with animated banter. In contrast, the outdoor seating offers a tranquil vantage point for watching sunsets through the narrow crag created by the inspiring architecture that lines Virmens’ka. The menu is brief but inviting; for a taste found nowhere else on earth, try the pig fat in chocolate. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. GBW Pid Synioiu Pliashkoiu C-4, Rus’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 294 91 53. Through an alleyway, under a staircase and beyond a decrepit yard you’ll find a hidden coffee house where everything seems to be slowly caving in on itself. (If you’re looking for sparkly, new and trendy keep walking.) Though they welcome outsiders, everthing is geared for locals. However, the service and coffee are first-rate and the atmosphere is one of a kind. We noticed that most of the food items were being warmed up in the microwave: stick to coffee or beer, enjoy the ambiance and then get out before the whole place turns to ruble. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Praga Café (Prague) A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. (+380) 32 274 12 20, www.praga.lviv.ua. The twisted ornamental steel is a nice touch of Art Nouveau, the coffee is loaded and the aroma of fresh cakes and sweats gnaws at the belly. A popular expat hang-out. The service is exceptional and the atmosphere is smart and inviting QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAEGBSW Sonata C-4, Valova 13, tel. (+380) 32 274 42 29. If So- nata doesn’t already have a motto they should consider: great prices and friendly ambiance! The aroma of roasting Krakow pork fills this quaint two level café. The soups are scrumptious, the salads are tasty and their vareniky (Ukrainian-style dumplings) is top notch. The popular outdoor seating is located across from the café at Halyts’ka pl. and offers a close up view of King Danilo’s horse’s ass. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Stari Mury C-4, Serbs’ka 5, tel. (+380) 32 236 71 77. Sandwiched between a chocolate shop and a café honouring the original masochist, Stary Mury offers titillating indulgences of its own: fine tea and exotic coffee. With exceptional greens and whites from China and Japan, and rich blacks from India and Arabia, tea lovers are in luck. The laidback atmosphere and coffee from the all edges of the earth are also inviting. The desserts, snacks, wine and cognac are priced just right, and soul warming glintwine is available when the temperature dips near zero. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PG Strudel House I-2, Shevs’ka 6, tel./fax (+380) 32 294 82 06, strudelhaus.lviv.@gmail.com. Ya ist strudel in der Centre! A very unique concept indeed! All kinds of strudel both savory & sweet, some choices are: buckwheat, sauerkraut, spinach, chicken, pineapple, walnut, cherry and so on. Most strudel costs between 18-20Hr. There are also several varieties of pancakes, salads and ice cream as well as a nice wine list. There is seating for 26 and service is great! QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAULGBW Lviv In Your Pocket Teatral’ne B-3, Teatral’na 23, tel. (+380) 32 272 36 96. In what once was a theatre, you’ll now find a smart and spacious café with a menu chock-full of tempting original European and Ukrainian dishes. The porterhouse and tenderloin steaks are popular with out-of-towners, and the mushroom stuffed trout in cognac sauce and the Norwegian salmon with strawberries are but a couple examples of the chef’s originality. Teatral’ne can accommodate special occasions; from small birthday parties to banquets of 50 (a special banquet menu is available). Other highlights include rich desserts (tiramisu, banana flambé, apple pie, etc.), excellent service and street side seating with calming views of historic centre. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Victorian Krakivs’ka 1/3, tel. (+380) 32 235 84 92, teahouse@ukr.net, victorian.net.ua. It’s a restaurant - no it’s a museum - no it’s a shop. Actually, it’s all 3 in one! This unique establishment is centrally located in the ‘old city”. The menu is Mediterranean & Ukrainian cuisine and in English, with an average price of 130Hr. There are over 100 sorts of tea and 40 sorts of coffee which may be packaged to take away. The museum of tea is truly worth seeing with photos and various tea paraphernalia and there is beautiful porcelain and souvenirs for sale. QOpen 9:00 - 23:00. PA Virmenka C-3, Virmens’ka 19, tel. (+380) 322 97 56 37. At Virmenka you’re not going to get tableside service, nor service in English. However, if you’re bold enough to approach the burly woman scowling from behind the counter and say “coffee, budlaska (please)”, you will get an exquisite espresso, the kind that coats the bottom of the cup with a heavy aromatic sludge. The spinning box on the counter is the menu, but everything worth having is in plain view (wine, tea, beer, cakes, etc.). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. AG Zoloto Polubotka B-4, Svobody prosp. 25, tel. (+380) 32 255 00 42. Tucked away in a quiet courtyard just off Svobody prosp., this cosy café’s most notable aspect is its quite reasonable prices. Flipping through the menu, our Ukrainian colleague mumbled, “A typical mix of Ukrainian and who knows what.” She must have been referring to the “shrimp under mayonnaise.” It’s definitely worth popping in if you need a break from the crowds and/or are in the mood for something from their affordable selection of coffee and coffee cocktails. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTGBS Zolotyi Dukat C-4, Ivana Fedorova 20, tel. (+380) 322 98 62 33. This cavernous café with its spooky mood lies beneath I. Fedorova vul. Mirrors on the ceiling and a mesmerizing relief model of historic Lviv add to the intrigue. Seating is limited, and there are even fewer menus. Once we got our hands on a menu, we were disappointed to find that it is written in Ukrainian in ancient looking cursive. Despite the dim lighting and bad eyes, we finally managed to make out the word “coffee” and everything turned out for the best. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. P Zolotyi Vepr C-4, Rynok pl. 17, tel. (+380) 32 272 67 94, www.vepr.net. Located in the basement of the historic Vening’s House, the décor harkens back to the building’s Gothic roots. The menu offers a hearty selection of tasty Ukrainian morsels. They have a great selection of veal and pork dishes, homemade sausages and enticing oddities such as tongue and brains. We tried the pork in beer, which turned out to be a nice treat - both filling and refreshing. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. GW Ч/Б 5х5 (Black and White 5x5) D-4, Koliivschyny pl. 2, tel. (+380) 68 505 85 99. In spite of its name, this café/photo club left a colourful impression. Appetisers and treats constitute the majority of the tasty, albeit small, array of dishes; the most popular being the koshiki, pastry bowls filled with a variety meat and veggies. We nibbled on our flaky bowls and watched an illuminating slide show by photographer Alexandr Petrosian, whose work beautifully captures the insane duality found in Russia and Ukraine. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. IG lviv.inyourpocket.com Nightlife Lviv’s clubs attract a diverse crowd, and you should be able to blend in quite easily. The great thing about partying in Eastern Europe is that the locals are arguably more awkward on the dance floor than we are in the west, so shrug off you inhibitions and convulse to the beat. Warning: Locals are overtly friendly and often invite foreigners to party at their table. We’ve learned from repeated experience that it’s impossible for a westerner to keep pace with locals when it comes to shooting horilka (vodka). Slow and steady wins the horilka race. Bars & Pubs 4friends C-6, Jokhara Dudayeva 2, tel. (+380) 32 225 65 54, www.4friends.com.ua. Truly what the Doors had in mind in the song “Show me the way to the next whiskey bar.” Opened early 2011, 4Friends has more than 110 brands of well known whiskey from Scotland, Ireland, Canada and the USA; and then some. A wide range of testing sets pleases the eye and every member of the staff is a specialist in whiskey. Wild Turkey is on its way and we saw the first English menu. There are snacks and a European menu with reasonable prices. This pub is very popular with capacity for around 30-40. Very close to the city centre. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PXW Archive Pub A-3, Furmans’ka 6, tel. (+380) 32 225 58 86. Archive is Lviv’s version of your friendly neighbourhood pub. It’s not uncommon to see whole families converge for lunch at the weekend: dads gulp beers, moms gossip and kids frolic under tables. Evening ushers in a new crowd, but the mood remains relaxed even when local football matches are shown. Don’t leave without trying one of their signature beer cocktails: beer and Fanta is a Ukrainian classic, but the Devil’s Brew (beer, cognac, salt, pepper and lemon) and the Island Paradise (beer, vodka, Malibu, gin and pineapple juice) are sure to leave an unforgettable impression. If you can still talk after downing one of these unique concoctions, order from a menu full of munchies, soups, salads, steaks and desserts. It can be hit and miss with the food - the soup was scrumptious, but the wings were salty enough to kill a horse. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGSW Beer Garden I-4, Ivana Franka 29, tel. (+380) 32 276 21 76. This eatery/beer house can be a bit tricky to find. One might expect that with an even number address (26) the establishment would be located on the even number side of the street - not the case. When you reach 28 Ivana Franka look across the street and you’ve arrived. A popular local’s hang, the offering of brew bursts at the keg welds compared to the scant selection of Ukrainian fare. However, flavour swirls up from the grill, fills the halls and rushes through the open courtyard tying knots of anticipation in the guts of eager patrons. The wings, ribs and shashlik are all worthy of mention. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PILGBS Black Cat G-4, Hvardiys’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 244 42 40. Black Cat is a real English pub-restaurant of supreme cuisine, which menu contains pizza, meat, fish and seafood of the best quality. Wheat and corn homemade bread baked in stove according to ancient recipes will be a great addition to any meal. The leafy salads and steamed salmon with veggies are a welcome break from Lviv’s greasy norm. Black Cat offers 15 kinds of beer, genuine atmosphere and their service is courteous. If you once taste chebureks and homemade sausages, which are served with beer, you will never forget its wonderful taste. Live jazz starts up nightly at 18:30 and banquets can be booked for up to 50. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAEGBXS lviv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 37 38 Nightlife new Central King’s Pub Ivana Franka 9, tel. (+380) 32 244 MAGNUS HOTEL LVIV 31, PANTELEIMONA KULISHA STR., LVIV TEL.: (032) 243 55 66 12.00-23.00 DAILY WWW.LIVERPOOL.LVIV.UA 57 87. A fairly new eating establishment, somewhat reminiscent of an English country pub. The décor is fancy pubish and there is seating for 60. The cuisine, of course is English with fish & chips one of the specialties for just 95Hr with an average full course meal running about 300Hr. Weekends there is live music alternating between jazz & blues. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAEGSW Cosmopolitan I-4, Saksahans’koho 12, tel. (+380) 96 820 11 78/(+380) 32 260 29 52, info@cosmopolitanbar.com.ua, www.cosmopolitan-bar.com.ua. This is a great alternative to night clubs - a cocktail bar with over 150 varieties of cocktails made from many exotic ingredients and at very reasonable prices. If you don’t find what you want, they will make it just for you! There is also great food with a limited menu of Ukrainian food costing only 35-55Hr. It is situated on 2 floors with 3 rooms including a VIP room and a non-smoking room. There is coffee, hookah, and just an overall good atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. 6GW Dublin A-4, Kryva Lypa prov. 5, tel. (+380) 32 272 88 74, www.dublin.com.ua. Dublin is known as “The true Irish pub”. It is slightly hidden in an alley way, very close to the city centre known as “The crooked Linden lane”. We arrived early on a Saturday night and the place was already filled. There were several TV screens and a few people were actually watching the game. Most people were just enjoying their friends and the beer. The pub offers a wide choice of fresh draught beer and whiskey. They have a specialty, Dublin beer - what they call “live beer” made in Ukraine (24Hr a pint). There are two halls ground level for 45-50 guests, and downstairs seating 20-22 guests. There is also a terrace outside, weather permitting. There is a great menu with Irish type pub grub and steaks guaranteed to make your mouth water! During weekdays there is a business lunch for only 50Hr. Unfortunately, due to certain new Ukraine customs policies; there was no Guinness or Kilkennery beer available. When asked how long the problem would continue, we were told to address our question to the President. I guess he’s not a lover of Irish beer. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. GB Liverpool A-1, Kulisha 31, tel. (+380) 32 243 55 66, liverpool.lviv.ua/home?lang=en. The name speeches for itself, Liverpool has an interior of classical English pub, with portraits of prominent British people on the walls. The pub has 2 types of its own beer - Liverpool Ale Light and Liverpool Lager and specially designed glasses. For sure Liverpool is pub for football fans, so in case you missed tickets for a football match you’ll find here the best atmosphere for watching football on the screen. Prices are reasonable and there are special areas is you come with a big company. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PAGSW Music Lab C-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 27, tel. (+380) 32 294 87 15, www.musiclab.com.ua. That’s one of a few places in Lviv which is open 24/7 and differs from most of Lviv eateries by its unusual interior. Visiting so many places in Lviv we use to see venues decorated with a tint of history and here we are in the heart of ancient city in a club with a modern glamorous interior. The menu offers international cuisine, two types of draught beer and a large variety of cocktails, energy drinks and good selection of whiskey. On weekends and holidays the space is transformed into a disco club. Live concert take place from time to time. QOpen 24hrs. P6VXSW new Nobilis Lobby & Piano Bar I-3, Fredra 5, tel. (+380) 32 295 84 14/(+380) 32 295 84 16, www.nobilis-hotel. com.ua. A quaint lounge bar open 24 hours and a piano bar with live music daily and a special performance every Sunday. Whether you’d like a cup of coffee or savour your favourite drink choose Nobilis Lobby Bar and enjoy luxurious leisure Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Nightlife in a cosy atmosphere. Informal yet chic Piano Lounge has a contemporary atmosphere, which seduces you into relaxation with privilege, privacy and serenity away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Featuring a delectable sandwiches and fondue menu, world-class alcohol brands and exotic cocktails that go with an intimate charm of live piano music.QOpen 24hrs (Piano Bar 11:00 - 02:00). PALEGSW Play Bar Kryva lypa 6, tel. (+380) 96 36 76 026/(+380) 32 27 22 501, www.play.lviv.ua. A very classy, yet simple café/bar, decorated all in white. It doesn’t stay white as there is a revolving colour scheme. Staff speaks some English, and the menu is in English offering European cuisine. There is a Business Lunch from 12:00-16:00 for just 30Hr. There is also a holiday and an evening menu - all with good prices. Live music is every Thursdays. There is a VIP area and seating for 80. At weekends there is a DJ and up to 200 gather for the sounds. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. PAULEGW Praga Pub A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. (+380) 32 274 12 20, www.praga.lviv.ua. Czechs drink more beer per capita than anyone on the planet. That being said, they expect only the best from their breweries and Praga Lviv taps into this tradition by serving fresh from the source Budvar, Krušovice and other classic Czech brews. The pub is located in the basement of the Praga complex, which includes a restaurant and café on the ground floor. Its welcoming neighbourhood appeal and occasional boisterous crowds make this an enticing venue for meeting-up, winding-down or viewing a big game. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAEGBSW Public Pub I-3, Staroyevreis’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 235 70 62, publicpub@ukr.net. Actually it’s two places in one. Upstairs is a nice quite romantic restaurant, downstairs, a lively pub. Great food is served; European & Ukrainian cuisine with such specialties as the “hot pot’ and their ‘chef’s salad”. The average meal costs 60-120Hr with the “business lunch” costing only 25Hr. Entertainment is downstairs in the pub. There is live music from local groups. The “art menu” changes daily. There is karaoke, whiskey day, beer day, poker day, Greek dancing on table’s day, family day, etc. Definitely a must-see! QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PAGBW Zenyk Glamour Rudans’koho 1, tel. (+380) 50 378 60 38. The theme of this pub is “glamour”, or to be precise, the vanity of glamour, as it is meant to be a spoof on glamour. One feels this by viewing the unique décor, decorations, and photos. There is no English menu but the staff is warm and friendly and speaks some English. The specialty is potato pancakes & beer which we quite enjoyed. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. PABSW Cigar House Fortuna De Luxe I-4, Hrushevs‘koho 12, tel. (+380) 32 260 20 25. This is not your ordinary smoke shop. As you enter, you‘re bound to be impressed by the extensive selection of pipes, hookahs and other paraphernalia. But don‘t let this distract you from your ultimate goal of finding the perfect smoke. Proceed down the small corridor leading to the smoking lounges. To your right you‘ll find Lviv‘s Holy Smoking Grail: Fortuna‘s humidor. From Gurkha Special Edition Limited Estate Reserves, to Auroras and Monte Cristos (Arnold Schwarzenegger‘s signature smoke) this is easily the city‘s finest cache of cigars. You don‘t need to be an oligarch to enjoy this club, however. The general hall is open to all, and you can order a stogy for as little as 22Hr. You‘re out of luck if you‘re hoping for a snifter of cognac to enhance the experience. Fortuna sells tobacco only. Discount programmes are available; ask the gracious staff for details. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A lviv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 39 40 Nightlife Clubs Fenomen Zelena 186, tel. (+380) 32 270 55 58/ (+380) 93 077 57 77, www.fenomenclub.com. The fact that this club is located on the edge of the city hasn’t deterred the throngs of local hipsters that routinely pack this place on weekends. Face control is relatively strict; it’s better to be over than underdressed, and the average age is just under thirty. The club has three zones: chill with a hookah in the “Magic Room”, house spins in the “Main Floor” and there are no surprises in the “RnB Café”. In English, the menu leaves nothing to chance and offers an array of tasty salads, sandwiches, onion rings - everything you need to quell the munchies. Tables can be reserved for 200-800Hr depending on the zone and size of your party. (Marshrutka No. 94, which makes stops on Svobody prosp., will drop you 50 metres from the club’s entrance.) QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Admission: Mon free, Tue-Wed 50 Hr, Thu-Sat - 80Hr, Sun 50-150Hr. PALGBW Gallery B-3, Svobody prosp. 16-18, tel. (+380) 32 235 45 17, www.galleryclub.info. Gallery is an entertaining blend of trends and cultures; classic and hi-tech; glam, R’n’B and disco. Refined French cuisine and excellent service ensure that the house is lively and diverse. Locals have designated this club their unofficial hookah hangout, and a mix of exclusive aromas is omnipresent. Also, Gallery has been known to put on intriguing events, i.e. “Night on Spiked Heels” was a titillating fest where ladies who dressed in provocative attire were ushered in free of charge. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 06:00. Admission girls 35-80Hr, boys 50 - 100Hr. PALK Karaoke Club 888 I-2, D. Halyts’koho 1, tel./fax (+380) 32 235 88 77, liardo@mail.ru, www.karaokeclub888.com.ua. Located below the Children’s theatre, this authentic karaoke club holds 200 people. It cost only 16Hr per song to make a fool of yourself. There is no English menu, but the staff speaks it quite well. The cuisine is European & Ukrainian with the average meal costing just 100Hr per person. QOpen 17:00 - 06:00. PT6ULEBXSW Kult Club B-5, Chaikovs’koho 7, tel. (+380) 32 242 22 42, www.kult.lviv.ua. Kult is a tribute Lviv’s icons past and present. A wall of fame wraps completely round the main hall. Though you may only recognise a couple faces like pop star Ruslana or former Arsenal defender Oleg Luzhny, the charismatic ambiance is unforgettable. Prices on Ukrainian and European fare are reasonable; however, many items are priced per 100 grams, so ask the server the approximate size of the dish in order to avoid confusion. Kult is perhaps best known for the live music (mostly jazz and blues) that is staged nightly from 21:00. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. Admission is free. PAIEGSW Lerroy Country Club E-4, Heroiv UPA 80, tel. (+380) 32 239 31 60. This is not a country club in the traditional sense, i.e. there’s no golf course or swimming pool. Lerroy is actually a club with a country western theme - at least when it comes to the décor. On the night we were there, the DJ was playing a medley of 80s Russian rock ballads. Most of the action takes place on and around the dance floor, but there’s also plenty to do in the cocktail lounge and the hushed hookah bar. The kitchen offers a splattering of local soups and salads, and the specialty is the Argentine steak. Entertainment programmes, including the occasional striptease, are held every Saturday. The club enforces the following dress code: Sneakers and sweatpants are prohibited, but leopard skin spandex and cleavage lifting blouses are encouraged. The average age is mid-thirties, and tables can be reserved for 50Hr. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PLGB Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Nightlife Metro I-4, Zelena 14, tel. (+380) 67 670 42 43, www. metroclub.com.ua. Those who think that there’s no metro in Lviv couldn’t be more mistaken. So what if it won’t transport you around the city, Metro is one of Lviv’s most popular clubs. Progressive and cutting edge, the Red Phone hall spins Euro Hit Parade and the impressive dance floor is usually packed with a diverse group of partiers, expats included. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Admission 25 - 40Hr for girls, 30 - 50Hr for boys. PESW Millenium H-2, Viacheslava Chornovola 2, tel. (+380) 32 240 35 91, www.favorite-club.com. Located in a former cinema, there is room for 1,000 in the 3 storied disco appealing to the university set. There are popular DJ’s, gogo girls and video clips making a very lively performance. Thursday is ladies night with free entrance until 23:00. The admission is 30-40Hr. The restaurant is set apart and has a “witch-craft” theme. Romantic music is played and many famous Ukrainian celebrities frequent the place whose pictures we didn’t recognise at all. The menu is in English with European and Ukrainian cuisine, the average meal costing 150-200Hr. We tried the specialty, a salad called “Lovely Lady” which was delicious! QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. P MIXX Party Club & Restaurant Staryi Rynok 8, tel. (+380) 322 44 83 42, info@mixx.lviv.ua, www.mixx.lviv. ua. Located on the outskirts of the centre at the “Old Market” and uniquely decorated. The disco is open from 22:00-05:00 and holds 300 people. The restaurant holds up to 150. The menu contains Ukrainian and Polish dishes and assorted snacks. There is a Japanese/sushi menu and food is served all the time at very descent prices. There is a small adjoining restaurant open 08:00-20:00 QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. PAL Picasso J-5, Zelena 88, tel. (+380) 32 275 32 72, www.picasso.lviv.ua. By day, Picasso is a popular café known for its flavourful coffee and tasty treats. By night, it metamorphoses into one of Lviv’s most vibrant and popular clubs. Concerts, retro parties and performances by top DJs fill an eclectic calendar. Face control is the rule: ditch the dirty trousers and comb your hair you filthy degenerate! The last Sunday of the month is Latin night. Book a table Friday and Saturday for a meagre 30Hr. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Thu. Admission 30 - 60Hr. PIEBW Rafinad People B-5, Rudans’koho 1, tel. (+380) 32 261 61 68/(+380) 66 400 08 88, www.rafinad-club.com. Rafinad brings a touch of class previously missing in Lviv’s club scene. You’ll need to pass a fairly strict face control: worn-out jeans and sneakers won’t get you through the door. Service standards, the cuisine and even the music are tuned to European tastes. The club itself is spacious, but the tight dance floor ensures there will be plenty of grinding. The DJs, live music and performers are professional and always entertaining. Other attractions include two VIP rooms and a cigar hall. QOpen 24 hrs. Admission Mon-Thu 30Hr for girls, 50Hr for boys; Fri-Sun 50Hr for girls, 100Hr for boys. PALEGW Split Club Lviv B-5, Mickiewicza pl. 6/7, tel. (+380) 32 242 22 00, www.split.lviv.ua. Split is a one-stopshop for all your dining, drinking and entertainment needs. The Irish pub blends with a stylish restaurant that serves Ukrainian, European and Japanese cuisine. The restaurant also features a private dining room where an itamae whips up inventive sushi dishes for up to eight. Split’s strip club is renowned for its incredibly talented dancers and is open from 22:00 - 04:00. The club’s specialty is the aqua show, in which the dancer takes a shower! Private, lap and table dances are also available. A 100Hr admission applies for the strip club. QOpen 24hrs. PTAILEGSW lviv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 41 42 What to see Lviv’s old town is so densely packed with mesmerizing, inspiring and unique attractions that travellers often become paralysed with fascination and never leave. Known as the centre of Ukrainian art and culture, the city boasts many of the country’s brightest and best museums, art galleries and theatres. The uncommonly preserved Renaissance architecture, gently bending streets and hidden ancient niches are sure to propel your mind through a vivid collage of centuries gone by. Essential Lviv Arsenal D-4, Pidval‘na 5, tel. (+380) 322 72 70 60. The city arsenal and its adjoining defensive walls are visible from Arsenal vul. Construction on the original two-storied stone building began in the 14th century, but was not completed until 1555. After nearly two centuries of toil this original structure was completely destroyed by fire after only 16 years of operation, and the contemporary building was constructed in its place from 1574-75. When the Swedes invaded in 1704 the arsenal took a beating, but all holes were patched within two years. In the 18th and 19th centuries the arsenal was refortified and lost some of its original form. Most recently, two of the upper floors were restored and now house a museum. Parts of the exterior have been excavated in order to reveal original walls, windows and roof. The distinctive defensive trench has been also been preserved. Throughout its working history the arsenal served as Lviv‘s defensive backbone. A smeltinghouse was located next to the arsenal and cast weapons for storage and for sale. The swords forged in Lviv gained the reputation as some of the best in Europe. In the 18th Century the arsenal was also used as a prison. It was here that Polish authorities imprisoned haydamaks, Ukrainian peasant rebels resisting Polish tyranny. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 8Hr, students and kids - 3Hr. Black Stone House (Chorna Kamianytsia) C-3, pl. Rynok 4. This exceptional architectural monument of the 16th17th centuries is matchless not only in Lviv, but in the whole of Europe. Construction on this alluring structure began in 1588 and incorporated locally mined, vibrant grey sandstone. The imposing black colour is a product of long-term absorption by the stone of dust, dirt and smoke that swirled about the market (coal was used to heat homes until the 1960s). The name Black Stone House didn‘t always apply, it was previously known as Kyiv Stone House and Doctor‘s Stone House. In 1926 the building was bought by the city and a branch of Lviv‘s historical museum was soon established. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 3Hr, students and kids - 2Hr. Black Stone House Lviv In Your Pocket City Hall (Ratusha) C-4, pl. Rynok 1. The first city hall was established on Rynok ploscha (Market Square) in the middle of the 14th century. Constructed of wood, it was levelled by fire in 1381. A new hall was erected in the early 15th century. The contemporary building is a conglomeration of the 15th century structure and three major expansions. The stone tower that hovers above the hall is the second of its kind. The original was erected in 1619, but by the beginning of the 19th century was deemed unstable and demolished. The 65 meter high replacement is a replica of the original. Pace yourselves, it‘s 306 steps up to the viewing platform. In 2008 a local pornographer boldly used City Hall‘s roof as a backdrop for photos, which were splashed all over the Internet. This embarrassment led local authorities to implement stricter security measures including the installation of surveillance cameras. Smile… you‘re being watched by a Ukrainian security cop. Q Admission to the city hall tower - 5Hr. Italian Yard (Italiys‘kyi dvoryk) C-3, Rynok 6, tel. (+380) 322 74 33 04. This romantic hotspot is located within the Kornjakt Palace on Rynok pl. Lvivians, visitors to the palace‘s museum and random pedestrians are magnetically drawn to this open-air coffee lover‘s oasis. Completely severed from the complexities outside, the carved stone and shaded balconies reek of Italian Renaissance. The mellow music and delectable fragrances make for a truly special café experience. If it all looks familiar, you‘ve probably seen the courtyard one of the many local and foreign films that shot scenes here. Concerts are occasionally staged here; the courtyard is known for its uncanny acoustic resonance. QAdmission 2Hr. King Jan III Sobieski Palace (Palats Kornjakta) C-3, pl. Rynok 6. This is a unique monument of the Renaissance period, one of only a few existing in Ukraine, and is the largest structure on Rynok pl. Until the late 16th century the area on which the palace stands was occupied by two smaller buildings, which were purchased by a Greek merchant named Constantine Kornjakt. He subsequently ordered the reconstruction of the two houses into a new grandiose edifice. Fragments of the older structures have been preserved and include the Gothic hall (an unmatched sample of Lviv‘s Gothic influence) and the cross-sectional support beams that hold the third floor ceiling. Following Kornjakt‘s death, the house was taken over Jakub Sobieski, the father of the future Polish king Jan III. From this time on the house served as a royal roost. In 1634 the residence was occupied for a short time by Wladyslaw IV, the Polish conqueror who occupied Moscow and seized the Russian crown.The Polish-Russian Eternal Peace Treaty (anything with a name this lofty deserves to fail) was signed at the palace in 1686. Since 1908 the building has housed a museum. One of the brightest expositions of any of the city‘s museums, the Royal Chambers, can be found here. The palace‘s Italian Yard is a Lvivian favourite and is not to be missed. Q Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 8Hr, children - 3Hr. Market Square (Ploscha Rynok) C-3/4, . Time and space gush through old town‘s veins and swirl ‘round Rynok ploscha: a cobbled whirlpool of colour and sound. With its stunning palaces, fountains, statues, crowds, cafés and pack of lethargic stray dogs Rynok Square is the heart of this magnificent city. Throughout the Middle Ages stone weights and balances clanked with each sale, livestock pleaded and villains writhed in pain at the punishment stake. Amazingly, within this relatively small area there are 45 protected architectural monuments. Each structure has its own captivating history, but the oldest and most commonly wowed-about are Chorna Kamianytsa (Black Stone House) and Kornjakt Palace (also called King Jan III Sobieski Palace). Regardless the era, the government has always kept a keen eye on the square. The imposing structure in the middle is City Hall. lviv.inyourpocket.com What to see Rus‘ka Street C/D-4, . Rus‘ka vul. has been an established thoroughfare since the Middle Ages. Connecting Rynok ploscha (Market Square) with Pidval‘na vul. (Rampart Street), the street is so narrow that only one street car can travel at a time. Blending a fascinating array of architectural styles, Rus‘ka is one of the most striking streets in the old city. For centuries this remained Lviv‘s centre of Orthodox Christianity. During Polish rule, this was the only street where an Orthodox believer was allowed to own real estate. From Rus‘ka there was a passage to an old Jewish ghetto. Residents constructed walls and a gate, which was secured at night in order to protect from pogroms. If there‘s a building that stands out it‘s No. 4. Constructed in the 16th century, an old-Austrian style café called Synia Pliashka sits in the court yard and the building itself is currently occupied by the Gerdan Art Gallery. The Opera House A-2, Svobody prosp. 28, tel. (+380) 322 72 88 60, www.lvivopera.org. Many European theatres can boast an extraordinary construction history, but Lviv‘s opera house is unique in that it is built on top of a river. The Poltva River flows beneath the stage and continues through centre deep beneath the asphalt (no doubt a contributor to the many sinkholes that tend to startle foreign visitors). By the end of the 19th century Lviv was a bourgeoning city eager for a Europeanclass theatre. The project was put up for tender and many top European architects tossed in their bids. It was Polish architect Zygmunt Gorgolewski - designer of Kaiser Wilhelm Bridge in Berlin, the Gemäldegalerie in Dresden and the Vienna State Opera - who proposed the radical and intriguing idea of burying the small river beneath the opera. His plans also included the use of a concrete foundation, a first for Europe. With optimistic trepidation, the city planners agreed and the Opera House was completed in 1900. The building began to sink right away, but settled in the decades that followed. It is believed that knowledge of this flaw led to Gorgolewski‘s depression, legendary suicide attempt and eventual death of heart disease.The official opening performances included a ballet, opera-drama and a comedy. The most fitting of the three was the opera entitled “Janek”. Written by Władysław Żeleński, it detailed the lives of Carpathian mountain-dwellers. The contemporary professionals that call the Opera House home include a 90-piece symphonic orchestra, more than 40 world-class opera soloists, a choir and a ballet troupe. The structure‘s stunning main façade is widely recognized and appears on the city‘s emblem and is also displayed on the 20Hr note. Matinees usually begin at 11:00 and evening performances at 18:00. Churches & Cathedrals St. George Cathedral (Sobor Sviatoho Yura) G-3, pl. Svyatoho Yura 5. This Greek Catholic cathedral, constructed in 1744-1761, is a remarkable example of Rococo architecture. Located at the height of St. George Mount, the cathedral dominates the surrounding area, but doesn‘t clash with the landscape. The main façade is set-off by a portal watched over by St. Athanasius and St. Leo (works by renowned sculptor Johann Georg Pinzel). In the cathedral itself, there lies a crypt where celebrated figures of the Ukrainian church are entombed. A park is nestled behind the palace and features a distinctive bell tower, which houses a remarkable bell. Cast in 1341, it is the oldest bell in Ukraine. The cathedral grounds are extremely calming and it‘s hard to imagine that hard times once prevailed. Following the death of metropolitan Andrei Sheptytsky in March 1946, Soviet authorities coerced church leaders to denounce Rome and join the Russian Orthodox Church. Justice prevailed in 1989 as the Greek Catholic Church re-established itself and resumed operation of the cathedral. The last major event to take place at St. George happened 2001. While visiting Lviv, Pope John Paul II lived in the Metropolitan‘s Palace. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Admission is free. lviv.inyourpocket.com City tours Bicycle Rentals and Tours B-4, Rynok Square 5, tel. (+380) 67 675 63 01/(+380) 32 253 24 90, bicyclerent.lviv@gmail.com, www.bicyclerent.lviv.ua. Chudo Tour B-4, Rynok pl., tel. (+380) 32 236 70 06, www.chudotour.com.ua. Chudo Train starts every hour from Ploscha Rynok (near the City Council entrance.) QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Fest Tour Rynok pl. 10, tel. (+380) 67 670 23 96, www.fest.lviv.ua. Free Tours of Lviv A-2, The Opera House, Svobody prosp. 28, tel. (+380) 93 795 79 59/(+380) 32 253 24 90, freetoursinlviv@gmail.com, www.freetours. com.ua. You can see daily tour schedule on website. Kamianyi Lev B-4, Svobody prosp. 12, tel. (+380) 32 245 22 20. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Lemberg Tour D-3, Vynnychenka 26/1, tel. (+380) 32 276 54 42, lembergtour.lviv@gmail.com, www. lemberg-tour.com.ua. Lemberg Tour provides Lviv city tours, tours around Ukraine, accomodation and transport services. Serpanok travel agency I-3, Teatral’na str., 8/ of.1, tel. +38/050-22-22-546, info@serpanok.com. ua,www.serpanok.com.ua. Tours and transfers around Lviv and Western Ukraine.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Piligrim A-5, Kopernyka 26, tel. (+380) 32 297 05 51/(+380) 32 297 05 52, travel@piligrim.lviv. net, www.piligrim.lviv.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Spring 2012 43 44 What to see The Armenian Cathedral (Virmens‘kyi Sobor) C-3, Virmens‘ka 7. The history of Lviv is a tapestry woven by more than 100 nationalities. Armenians began inhabiting the city in the 14th century and quickly established their own quarter complete with a small cathedral completed in 1370. This original building perished in the fire of 1527. The structure that stands today blends a few architectural styles including Old Russian, Gothic and Armenian. The original bell tower was erected in 1571, but was later toppled by the Turks during a siege. The 19th century version of the bell tower is a restoration of the original. The courtyard provides a tranquil setting for the decorative column and figure of St. Christopher. The neighbouring buildings are those of a former Armenian bank, established in the 17th century, and Lviv‘s oldest pawnshop. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Admission is free. The Assumption Church (Uspens‘ka Tserkva) B-3, Rus‘ka 7. This vibrant example of Renaissance architecture has served as the centre of the Orthodox Christian faith for centuries. In the middle of the 16th century, the Assumption Brotherhood was founded here along with a printing press and a school. The church has experienced many episodes of ruin and reconstruction. The first Assumption Church was constructed of wood in 1344, but was destroyed by fire during an attack on Lviv by Polish feudal lords in 1350. The second church was built of stone in 1421 and experienced a relatively peaceful existence until it too was levelled by the great fire of 1527. (With the exception of City Hall and one other structure, the fire of 1527 devoured the entire city.) The replacement was completed in 1559 and, you guessed it, was completely destroyed by fire in 1571. The danger posed by fire was apparently driven home and the cathedral constructed in 1591 has survived until the present. Also located on the premises are Kornjakt‘s Tower and the Chapel of Three Prelates. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Admission is free. The Bernardine Cathedral and Monastery D-5, Soborna pl. 1-3. The Bernardine Cathedral and Monastery is one of the most inspiring sites in Lviv. The area around which the monastery stands has evolved over the years, but the monastery itself remains as architect Pavlo Rimlyanin envisioned. Constructed in the 17th century, the Cathedral‘s façade is protected by statues of the sacred order of Bernardine and the niches of the second tier hold images of Mary, Jesus and apostles Peter and Andrew. Be respectful, of course, but don‘t be afraid to drop in on a prayer session. The cathedral‘s magnificent interior is stirring. Originally located outside the city walls, the monastery had its own defences. A section of the original protective wall remains and can be viewed from Pidval’na vul. The impressive column that stands before the cathedral supports a sculpture of St. Jan and was constructed in 1736. Originally from a small settlement named Dukla, Jan rose to prominence in Lviv where he died in September 1484 at the age of 60. He was quickly canonized. The monument was established in memoriam to those on the Polish side who perished during the Khmel‘nyts‘kyi Uprising. In 1648 allied armies led by Ukrainian Hetman Bohdan Khmel‘nyts‘kyi invaded the Carpathian region in an attempt to seize control from the Poles. One of the campaign‘s goals was the complete eradication of Roman Catholic priests. QOpen 10:00 - 11:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Admission is free. The Dominican Cathedral (Dominicans‘kyi Sobor) D-3, Museina pl. 1. The foundation of the Dominican Monastery dates back to the second half of the 13th century when Constance, the wife of Lev I of Galicia, commissioned the construction of a small wooden church in gratitude for the generosity of the local Dominican monks. Eventually destroyed by fire in 1408, a Gothic-era stone church was constructed in its place. The monastery, which could accommodate more than 100 monks, experienced its heyday beginning in 1612 when it become the central monastery of the Eastern European Dominican Order. In 1742 cracks were detected in the cathedral‘s arch. An emergency meeting was convened and all rescue options were exhausted. Demolition commenced in 1749. Construction on the new cathedral, designed by architect Jan de Witte, began shortly after. The bell tower was constructed in 1865. During the Soviet era the site was used as a regional archive and as a school for would be printing workers. After restoration in 1972 the Dominican Monastery opened as a museum dedicated to the history of religion and atheism; the atheists have since left the building. Religious services have also resumed. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Admission is free. The Chapel of the Boim Family (Kaplytsia Boimiv) C-4, Katedral‘na pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 274 40 47. Constructed in the early 17th century on the grounds of what was a city cemetery; this quaint structure was originally intended for use as a crypt by the Boim family. George Boim, a Lviv merchant and moneylender of Hungarian origin, started the project and his son, Paul-George, put the finishing touches on what would become a permanent feature in Lviv‘s stunning centre. The side of the chapel is decorated with fretwork that gives the impression that the entire structure has been turned inside-out. Fresco portraits of George Boim and his wife Jadwiga can be viewed from Halyts‘ka vul. The site has been protected by UNESCO since the 1970s. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr, children 5Hr. The Chappel of Boim Family Lviv In Your Pocket Stay in touch with what’s happening in Lviv at our Facebook page www.facebook.com/LvivInYourPocket lviv.inyourpocket.com What to see The Latin Cathedral (Latyns‘kyi Sobor) C-4, Katedral‘na pl. 1. This is a spectacular example of ancient Lviv‘s Gothic influence. Officially known as the Archcathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, it‘s understandable why most just call it the Latin. Constructed in 1360, a relic was incorporated into the first foundation stone by King Kazimir the Great. Both the interior and exterior have evolved throughout the centuries, but the sanctuary and altar have remained unchanged. The cathedral was severely damaged in the fire of 1527. During its restoration in the 18th century, Baroque forms replace those of the Gothic era. The marvellous stained glass windows were incorporated at the end of the 19th century. A cemetery once existed on and around what is now Katedral‘na ploscha (Cathedral Square). In 1765 all burials were relocated and further burials forbidden. The cemetery‘s chapel, the Chapel of the Boim Family, remains on the site and is a protected historical monument. Pope John Paul II attended mass here on June 26th, 2001. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Admission 2Hr. Photography is prohibited. The St. Peter and Paul Church of the Jesuit Order (Kostiol Jezuitiv) B-4, Teatral‘na 11. Located with its back turned to Svobody prosp. and the monument of Taras Shevchenko, this is considered one of the more mystical places in Lviv. The church was constructed in the beginning of the 17th century and is modelled after the classic Church of the Gesù in Rome. The size of the church is impressive: 41metres long, 26 metres high and 22.5 metres wide. When Austria ordered the abolition of the Jesuits 1848, the Lviv brotherhood owned property worth up to one million thalers (big bucks for that time). A section of the premises is currently occupied by the Lviv Scientific Library and is used as an archive. Museums Brewing Museum (Muzey-py vovarnia) G-1, Kleparivs‘ka 18, tel. (+380) 32 294 80 65. In recognition of the 290th anniversary of one of Europe‘s oldest breweries, the Brewing Museum was opened to the public in 2005. Six-hundred square metres of the brewery‘s historic premises were specially renovated in order to host this unique museum. The collection contains a plethora of exceptional beer utensils and brewing hardware that represent various epochs. Admission includes a trip to the tasting hall: a titillating bonus for all fans of Lvivs‘ke (Львівське) beer. Excursions are available in Polish, Russian and Ukrainian, and descriptions in English under each exhibit make it enjoyable for the rest. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 15Hr. Johann Pinzel Museum (Muzey Ioana Pinzelya) D-5, Mytna pl. 2, tel. (+380) 322 75 69 66. This museum presents 32 sculptures of the world-renown 18th century Lvivian sculptor Johann Georg Pinzel. Often referred to as Ukrainian‘s Michelangelo the beauty and mastery of his work justifies this distinction. Little is known about the sculptor‘s life and controversy continues to hover around his identity, but doesn‘t that make his art all the more alluring? If you‘ve decided that you don‘t have time to visit a museum while in Lviv: skip lunch, head to Mytna pl. and discover the essence of Ukrainian art. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5Hr, students and children - 2Hr. Photography allowance - 20Hr. Lviv Art Gallery (Lvivs‘ka halereya mystetstv) A-5, Stefanyka 3, tel. (+380) 32 261 44 48. With 24 halls and more than 400 works from leading French, Italian, Austrian, German, Russian, Polish and Ukrainian masters, this is the largest and arguably finest art museum in Ukraine. The col- lviv.inyourpocket.com The Latin Cathedral lection of Polish art is unmatched outside of Poland. Pieces in this collection date from the 16th to 20th centuries and include impressive works by leading 19th century masters Artur Grottger and Jan Matejko. The pride of the museum, two world art masterpieces, is Georges de La Tour‘s “Payment of Dues” and Tiziano Vecellio‘s “Portrait of a Man”. The halls on the first floor regularly host thematic exhibitions. Last entrance one hour before close.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr, children - 5Hr. Lviv History Museum (Lvivs‘kyi istorychnyi muzey) C-3, pl. Rynok 6, tel. (+380) 322 74 33 04, www.lhm. lviv.ua/eng. Founded in 1893, this is one of Lviv‘s oldest museums. Originally located in a chamber of City Hall, the contemporary museum is spread out among four unique architectural monuments dating from the 16th-18th centuries. The collection is composed of more than 330 thousand exhibits that offer fascinating snapshots into the lives of those who inhabited Lviv from ancient times up to the present. The main branch can be found at Rynok ploscha (Market Square) in the Kornjakt Palace. During the 17th Century the palace served as a royal roost for Jakub Sobieski, the father of Polish king Jan III, and Wladyslaw IV, the Polish conqueror who occupied Moscow and seized the Russian crown. The collection‘s highlights include ancient furniture, pictures, silver ornaments and the Royal Chambers. The museum‘s second and third branches are also located on the square in buildings 4 and 24. The fourth branch is located at the Arsenal on Pidval‘na vul. 5 and is dedicated to the region‘s history of weaponry. Excursions in English can be difficult to rustle up, but most of the exhibits speak for themselves. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 8Hr, students and senior citizen 5Hr. Lviv Museum of Ancient Relics C-1, pl. Uzhgorods‘ka 1, tel. (+380) 322 72 28 86. It‘s appropriate that this museum of ancient relics is located in one of Lviv‘s most ancient churches. St. John the Baptist Church was originally built in 1250, a time of profound transition and growth in the newly established capital of Galicia. Though it has been reconstructed numerous times, an antique feel prevails. The museum opened in 1993 as a branch of the Lviv Art Gallery. Artistic works, sacral relics and archaeological findings tell the enthralling story of ancient life in the region. Dated to the second half of the 14th century, the collection‘s “Lviv Virgin and Child” is one of the oldest existing Ukrainian icons. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Spring 2012 45 46 What to see History in Stone Museum of Ethnography and Art Craf ts B-4, Svobody prosp. 15, tel. (+380) 32 272 78 08. Known for its unique collection of Ukrainian cultural artefacts, this celebrated museum houses more than 83 thousand items. The stunning rugs and tapestries, delicate wooden crafts and ancient musical instruments provide vivid frames into the lives of the region‘s past inhabitants. The clock exhibit is the largest and most valuable in Ukraine, but it‘s the vibrant assortment of embroidered national attire that really stands out and tends to bring touring groups to a sudden halt. The collection of jewellery is also impressive and features a remarkable silver episcopal baton dated to the 11th-13th centuries. The main exposition is located within the former premise of a Galician-era bank. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr, children 5Hr. National Museum (Natsional‘nyi muzey) B-3, Svo- Arriving in a city for the first time, most sane travellers don’t head straight for the local cemetery. But Lviv is unique in many ways, and one of the city’s most distinctive, beautiful and historic locales is the Lychakivs’ke Cemetery. Believe it or not, this is an ideal location to begin your exploration of Lviv’s diverse history, fascinating culture and stunning art: what Père Lachaise is to Paris, Lychakivs’ke is to Lviv. Officially established in 1786 by Austro-Hungarian authorities, the first burials actually took place in the 16th century. Since then, more than 400,000 inhabitants have been laid to rest beneath these hallowed and enigmatic grounds. Grave markers hold mournful tributes inscribed in Ukrainian, Russian, German, Polish, Armenian and Latin - evidence of the city’s diversity and turbulent past. Throughout the 19th century, plots were reserved by elite and middleclass families, artisans, scientists, spiritual leaders and politicians. For obvious reasons, this trend shifted during the Soviet era, and resulted in a fascinating contrast: wedged between ancient chapels and elite family crypts stand simple monuments, tributes to departed communists. Communal graves of soldiers and freedom fighters can also be found. The most renowned is the grave of the Lwów Eaglets. The Eaglets were Polish child soldiers who defended Lviv during the Polish-Ukrainian War (19181919). Lviv was ultimately seized by the Soviet Union in 1939; the grave was desecrated and turned into a dump in 1971. Despite opposition by Ukrainian nationalists, the site was restored and reopened in 2005. Lychakivs’ke is a protected historical monument. This is a much deserved designation, as it rivals many of Europe’s ancient necropolises in not only size, but in the beauty of its sculptures. Visitors are often stopped in their tracks by the remarkable statue of an angle gazing sadly towards heaven. Grief, strength and sacrifice are the dominant themes represented in these gripping monuments. Plan on spending at least a few hours if you hope to see them all, and for those with time limitations the sculptures located at the graves of Armenian Archbishop Samuel Stefanowicz, Dr. Józef Torosewicz and actress Regina Markovsky (Sleeping Beauty) are not to be missed. Lychakiv Cemetery (Lychakivs‘kyi Tsvyntar) K-4. QAdmission 10Hr, 5Hr for children. Lviv In Your Pocket body prosp. 20, tel. (+380) 32 272 80 63. The National Museum was originally established in 1905 as a private collection for the church by metropolitan Andrei Sheptytsky. It was later transferred to the city in 1913. Throughout its more than 100 years of existence an extraordinary 130 thousand exhibits have been collected. The museum‘s pride is also Ukraine‘s largest display of Ukrainian sacral art, which dates from the 12th-18th centuries. Icons, sculptures, manuscripts and decorative carvings immortalize Ukraine‘s religious past. Tours are available in English, Polish, Russian and Ukrainian. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 17Hr, students 6.50Hr. Religion History Museum D-3, Museina pl. 1, Domini- can Cathedral, tel. (+380) 32 272 91 00. This distinctive museum displays exhibits representing Ukraine’s national religions and is located with the Dominican Cathedral. The cathedral was originally constructed in the second half of the 13th century by Constance, the wife of Lev I of Galicia, in recognition of Lviv’s gracious Dominican monks. The museum opened in 1972 and was dedicated to the history of religion and atheism; the atheists have since left the building. There are more than 50 thousand exhibits and include a magnificent assembly of icons from the 16th-19th centuries, an impressive set of Torahs and Bibles and voluminous displays of Russian old prints. One of the museum’s most valuable pieces is Ivan Fyodorov’s Ostroh Bible. Fyodorov, an exiled Muscovite, established Ukraine’s first printing press in Lviv. Works by numerous renowned theologians from Ukraine and abroad representing Catholicism, Orthodox Christianity, Judaism and other religions are on display in the library. An archaeological exhibition entitled “The Museum’s Treasure” is located in the cellar. The cathedral also hosts concerts and organ recitals. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5Hr, 3Hr for children and students. Night excursion - 500Hr. The Pharmacy Museum “Pid Chornym Orlom” C-3, Drukars‘ka 2, tel. (+380) 322 72 00 41. If you haven‘t noticed by now, Ukrainians love pharmaceuticals. There‘s a drug store on practically every corner of every city! The foundation of a museum dedicated to the apothecary is very fitting. The Pharmacy Museum is located in a drugstore established in 1735 by a military pharmacist. The drugstore remains in operation and continues to mix its signature “Iron wine” used to treat anaemia. This distinctive angular house on the corner of Drukars‘ka and Stavropihiyska hosts an exposition of more than 3,000 articles. The most curious of which are the pharmaceutical scales located in the opening hall. The second hall was originally used as a stockroom and currently displays pharmaceutical instruments from a variety of epochs. Within the third hall you‘ll discover an ancient laboratory that was reproduced on the basis of pictures and engravings. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 5Hr, students and senior citizen 3Hr. lviv.inyourpocket.com UNDERGROUND LVIV One of the most haunting places in Lviv’s old town actually lays metres beneath the cobble. The area is crisscrossed by kilometres of underground tunnels - the remains of ancient Lviv. This labyrinth attracts treasure hunters, thrill seekers and those looking to be immersed in a bewildering medieval atmosphere. The vast majority of these caves are not sanctioned for exploration. Naïve and unprepared adventurers can easily get lost, caught in cave-ins or even catch diseases (the causative agents of which are able to lie in wait for centuries). However, it is possible to sneak a peak at the longest of Lviv’s underground medieval streets: Teatraln’a vul. Access this hidden world via an excursion that can be booked at the St. Peter and Paul Church of the Jesuit Order. The Jesuits first arrived to Lviv at the end of the 16th century. Though shunned at first, the monks soon proved their worth as educators. Admission to the Jesuits’ schools was free of charge and open to all Christians independent of their nationality. Famous traveller Hryhorovych-Barskyi and Hetman Bohdan Khmel‘nyts‘kyi are among the schools’ alumni. The church, modelled after the classic Church of the Gesù in Rome, was constructed in the beginning of the 17th century. When the Austria-Hungarian Empire ordered the abolition of the Jesuits in 1848, the church became a garrison temple used by various religions. In Soviet times, a book depository was established here (nearly two million historic manuscripts are still stored within). During this time, the church’s vaults were used as warehouses by the workers of municipal services who transformed these nether regions into some of the most alluring passages of underground Lviv. The excursion begins at a hatch to an underground tunnel that passes beneath Svobody prosp. The passage is just wide enough for two pairs of explorers to pass without rubbing shoulders. As you enter, check out the two metal rings fastened to the wall. These were used in medieval times to restrain prisoners. Other instruments of torture, now stored at the Religion History Museum, were also discovered here. Despite this gruesome evidence, historians argue that adequate documentation does not exist to prove that executions connected with the Inquisition took place here or anywhere in Lviv. Also on display are relics used by the city’s inhabitants during the 15th-19th centuries. The most popular feature is the solid stone sarcophagus which dates to the 18th century - the weight of the lid alone exceeds 600 kg. The coffin’s Latin inscription reads that it was intended for archbishop Vizhitsky, but researchers lviv.inyourpocket.com maintain that the absence of remains and the fact that the burial date was never engraved is proof enough that the sarcophagus was never occupied. Another of the excursion’s highlights is the telling of the Legend of the Black Monk. The story goes that a boastful monk was locked in one of the vault’s cells as punishment for his arrogance. Soon thereafter, a pale man in a black robe entered the church and persuaded the brethren that he could talk some sense into the boastful monk. The mysterious stranger was ushered into the cell beneath. The brethren overheard the two men arguing, and then… silence. When they opened the door to the cell, the two men had vanished, and in the corner of the cell they found a small parchment, on which was written a contract signed in blood. The boastful monk had offered up his soul to the devil for an undisclosed sum. Supposedly this “fact” is fixed in the archives, and Lviv’s legal records have a copy of the contract. The funeral urn with ancient Chinese hieroglyphs is another of the vaults’ intrigues, though the origin of this find can be explained. Medieval Lviv had trading and diplomatic relations with China. The urn most likely contains the ashes of the loved one of a Chinaman who happened to be living/travelling in Lviv, or it was made in Lviv by a Chinaman whose loved one met his/her unfortunate destiny in this foreign land. Titillating rumours concerning the Jesuit monks’ hidden treasure persist to this day. For most visitors, however, the restored vault is treasure enough, and provides an unforgettable time portal to Lviv’s mystifying ancient past. It’s best to book excursions in advance. You also can book alternate excursions that begin at the Pharmacy Museum and The Assumption Church through the tour agencies listed in this guide. The St. Peter and Paul Church of the Jesuit Order (Kostiol Jezuitiv) B-4, Teatral‘na 11. Located with its back turned to Svobody prosp. and the monument of Taras Shevchenko, this is considered one of the more mystical places in Lviv. The church was constructed in the beginning of the 17th century and is modelled after the classic Church of the Gesù in Rome. The size of the church is impressive: 41metres long, 26 metres high and 22.5 metres wide. When Austria ordered the abolition of the Jesuits 1848, the Lviv brotherhood owned property worth up to one million thalers (big bucks for that time). A section of the premises is currently occupied by the Lviv Scientific Library and is used as an archive. Q Excursion starts every hour from 13:00 until 18:00 and can be ordered in Ravlyk Salon (Svobody prosp. 15, tel. (+380) 32 298 25 95). Exhibition admission 7Hr, student 5Hr. Underground excursion 12Hr, student 8Hr. Spring 2012 47 48 Getting around Airline ticket offices Aerosvit Lubyns’ka 168, Lviv International Airport, tel. (+380) 322 29 80 24, lviv@aerosvit.com, www.aerosvit. com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Lunch time 13:00-14:00. Austrian Airlines Lubyns’ka 168, Lviv International Airport, tel./fax (+380) 32 297 60 90, tel. (+380) 32 297 62 91, www.aua.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Carpatair Lubyns’ka 168, Lviv International Airport, tel. (+380) 32 297 62 66/(+380) 32 297 61 11, lviv@carpatair.com, www.carpatair.com. QOpen 05:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Lunch break 12:00 - 13:00. LOT Polish Airlines A-4, Sichovych Striltsiv 5, tel. (+380) 32 297 11 55/(+380) 32 297 50 57, www.lot. com. Also at Lviv International Airport (open 11:30 - 15:30, Sat, Sun 12:30 - 15:30), tel. 69 29 85. QOpen 9:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ukraine International Airlines Lubyns’ka 168, Lviv International Airport, 2nd floor, tel. (+380) 322 98 69 77, sale@avia.lviv.ua, www.flyuia.com. Taxis Comfort Taxi tel. (+380) 32 243 42 43. Ecomon Taxi tel. (+380) 32 243 08 08. Express tel. (+380) 32 244 60 86. Navigator tel. (+380) 32 242 09 72. Radio Taxi tel. (+380) 67 908 10 81. Taxi 063 , tel. (+380) 63. Taxi 065 , tel. (+380) 65. Taxi 1506 , tel. (+380) 63 30 70 006/(+380) 98 06 89 206, fax (+380)32 275 56 59. International train schedule From Lviv City To Lviv Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr. 15:26 08:32 14:48 05:46 ADLER (on even days) (on even days) 17:05 22:30 (4) BAKU (1) 23:30 05:38 20:29 20:43 (1-7) BELGRADE (1-7) 06:45 09:45 01:02 08:05 (5) BERLIN (6) 21:38 05:38 20:29 09:47 (1-7) BUDAPEST (1-7) 18:15 09:45 23:35 19:13 (1,4,6) BUCHAREST (1,3,6) 06:38 08:05 07:18 15:25 ( 1-7) KRAKOW (1-7) 13:28 23:46 19:06 09:00 15:47 04:54 MINSK (on odd days) (on even days) 08:37 09:08 (1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 12:35 10:14 04:32 04:52 (1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 15:52 13:57 10:10 09:52 (1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 21:31 20:01 07:18 06:41 (1-7) PRAGUE (1-7) 00:11 23:00 07:18 09:26 (1-7) PRZEMYSL (1-7) 19:24 23:46 23:35 06:05 (1,4,6) SOFIA (1,3,6) 19:30 08:05 23:12 05:25 12:45 15:19 ST.-PETERSBURG (on even days) (on even days) 20:29 20:22 (2,4,6)WARSAW(2,5,6,7) 09:22 09:45 07:18 20:27 (1-7) WROCLAW (1-7) 08:15 23:46 10:01 06:42 (2,5) VIENNA (3,6) 11:43 09:45 20:29 22:22 (2,4,6) ZAGREB (2,5,6,7) 07:20 09:45 Domestic train schedule From Lviv City Dep. Arr. 17:16 23:03 (1-7) CHERNIVTSI (1-7) 10:01 16:13 (1-7) CHOP (1-7) 09:46 02:42 (1-7) DNIPROPETROVSK (1-7) 16:10 16:50 DONETSK (on odd days) 17:05 14:39 22:47 19:27 20:22 01:02 19:45 09:46 14:52 00:34 13:33 10:15 07:25 10:35 06:17 04:22 07:51 09:50 21:02 07:09 To Lviv Dep. Arr. 07:25 13:40 20:26 02:23 20:25 14:07 13:49 14:49 (on even days) (1-7) KHARKIV (1-7) 19:11 14:45 (1-7) KHERSON (1-7) 17:24 14:38 (1-7) KYIV (1-7) 22:15 06:32 (1-7) KYIV (1-7) 16:04 06:43 (1-7) KYIV (1-7) 23:52 09:47 (1-7) LUHANSK (1-7) 17:43 21:02 (1-7) ODESA (1-7) 19:09 07:10 (1-7) SIMFEROPOL (1-7) 13:12 14:07 (1-7) UZHGOROD (1-7) 21:45 04:37 (1-7) UZHGOROD (1-7) 14:16 07:19 More on lviv.inyourpocket.com Feel the city’s charming atmosphere Lviv In Your Pocket lviv.inyourpocket.com Getting around International flight schedule From Lviv Days Dep. 1 – – – 5 – – 18:00 1 – – 4 – – 7 15:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:50 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 12:55 1 - 3 4 5 6 – 07:00 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 15:55 1 – – – – – – 21:35 – – – 4 – 6 – 19:55 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 14:40 Arr. 19:05 17:35 17:45 13:50 08:05 16:25 22:25 20:45 15:00 City DORTMUND (WU) ISTANBUL (TK) MOSCOW Vnukovo (UT) MUNICH (LH) TIMISOARA (V3) VIENNA (OS) VENICE TREVISO (WU) VENICE TREVISO (WU) WARSAW (LO) To Lviv Days Dep. 1 – – – 5 – – 14:35 1 – – 4 – – 7 12:02 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:55 1 - – 4 5 – 7 10:15 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 09:50 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 13:55 1 – – – – – – 18:15 – – – 4 – 6 – 16:35 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:25 Arr. 17:30 14:10 10:55 12:15 11:00 15:15 21:05 19:25 13:50 Airline Codes: LO– LOT Polish Airlines, LH – Lufthansa Airlines, OS– Austrian Airlines, PS– Ukrainian International Airlines, TK – Turkish Airlines, V3– Carpatair, VV – AeroSvit, WU – WizzAir. Domestic flight schedule From Lviv Days Dep. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:20 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:45 1 – 3 4 5 6 - 06:30 Arr. 08:30 11:40 19:15 08:10 City KYIV (VV) KYIV (VV) KYIV (VV) KYIV (PS) Car rental Pidstrygacha 6, (+380) 67 230 33 49, lviv@avis.com.ua, www.avis.com.ua. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. LA lviv.inyourpocket.com To Lviv Days Dep. 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 10:05 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:40 1 2 3 4 5 - - 08:80 1 – 3 4 5 6 - 09:20 Arr. 11:30 20:55 09:15 11:00 Europcar Lypyns’koho 36, tel. (+380) 32 294 89 94, lviv@ autodrive.com.ua, www.europcar.ua. Also at Lviv International Airport, tel. 0 32 229 87 87. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A Hertz Rent a Car Lubyns’ka 168A, Lviv International Airport, Trustan Hotel, tel. (+380) 32 297 00 52, lviv@ hertz.ua, www.hertz.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PAL Spring 2012 49 50 Mail & Phones Postal delivery in Ukraine is generally reliable, but every so often a letter or package will go missing and never arrive at its intended destination. The post office remains a throwback to Soviet times with its redundant and confusing bureaucratic order. When sending or picking up a package or letter be patient and try not to be too intimidated by the burly woman shouting incomprehensible orders at you. MTS Tarasa Shevchenka prosp. 15, tel. (+380) 32 240 00 00, www.mts.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat Post Fixed line telephone Central Post Office A-5, Slovats‘koho 1, w w w. ukrposhta.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Postal rates Within Ukraine Abroad Letters (<20g) 2,00Hr 5,60Hr Postcards 2,00Hr 5,60Hr Express mail rates Comparative rates for sending a package maximum 500g. Frankfurt London DHL 330Hr 330Hr TNT 353Hr 353Hr FedEx 240Hr 240Hr UPS 382Hr 382Hr weighing a New York 330Hr 403Hr 245Hr 400Hr Public internet access Chorna Medeya H-3, Petra Doroshenka 50, tel. (+380) 32 261 02 50. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 6-9Hr per hour. Maximum C-5, Kniazia Romana 2, tel. (+380) 32 235 29 51. Also at Melnyka 18. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 4-8Hr per hour. Pozytyv I-4, Zelena 14, tel. (+380) 32 294 90 51. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Mobile phones There are two types of mobile phone numbers in Lviv direct numbers (which do not differ from the Lviv fixed line numbers, and may be dialled as such) and mobile numbers (these should be preceded by 0 and the operator’s code). SMS may not be sent to direct numbers. Mobile phone calls in Ukraine are relatively cheap and very reliable. You do not need to sign a contract or show your documents to use the local provider’s service. SIM cards are available in special service centres, mobile phone stores and even on the streets. You can also buy cards to refill your account at these same locations. Beeline H-2, Torhova pl. 11, tel. (+380) 32 244 44 10, www.beeline.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Kyivstar C-4, Valova 11, tel. (+380) 32 240 88 88/ (+380) 32 290 11 90, www.kyivstar.net. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Life B-4, Hryhorenka pl. 7, tel. (+380) 32 272 69 46, www.life.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. The Lviv telephone code is +380 32 Lviv In Your Pocket 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. UTEL A-5, Slovats‘koho 1, tel. (+380) 52, www.utel. ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Using a telephone To call a number inside Kyiv just dial the number. To make a longdistance telephone call, dial 0, wait for the dial tone and then dial the city code and number. To call Kyiv from another town, dial 0, wait for the tone, dial Lviv’s city code (32) and then the number. To make an international call, dial 0, wait for the tone, and then dial 0 plus the country code, city code and number itself. Ukrainian city codes Cherkasy 47 Kirovohrad52 Rivne 36 Chernihiv 46 Kyiv 44 Sevastopol69 Chernivtsi 37 Kyiv Region45 Simferopol 65 Dnipropetrovsk56 Luhansk 64 Sumy 54 Donetsk 62 Lutsk 33Ternopil 35 Ivano-Frankivsk34 Lviv 32 Uzhhorod 31 Kharkiv 57 Mykolaiv51 Vinnitsa 43 Kherson 55 Odesa 48 Zaporizhya61 Khmelnytsky 38 Poltava 53 Zhytoymyr41 The above Ukrainian city codes should be prefixed with an “0” if dialing from another Ukrainian town. International country codes Australia 61 Germany 49 Poland 48 Austria 43 Greece 30 Romania 40 Belgium 32 Hungary 36 Russia 7 Bulgaria 359 Ireland 353 Spain 34 Canada 1 Israel 972 Sweden 46 Czech Rep. 420 Italy 39 Turkey 90 Denmark 45 Japan 81 Ukraine 380 Finland 358 Moldova 373 UK 44 France 33 Netherlands 31 USA 1 The above International country codes should be prefixed with “0-0” if dialing from inside Ukraine. Laptop login Wi-Fi There are now a number of places in Kyiv which provide Wi-Fi connections to the Internet both for mobile telephones, PDAs with web browsers and laptops with Wi-Fi support. Look for the W symbol in our guide. The service is usually free at hotels and restaurants, but in some venues the connection costs around 10Hr per hour. 3G & 4G There are an increasing number of companies in Ukraine offering 3G & 4G service. You need to have a compatible telephone or modem to connect to the Internet. SIM-cards can be found at any one of the service centres of companies mentioned in Mobile phones section above. The same service centres can also refill your account and help with setting up a connection to the Internet. Roaming To call a fixed telephone in Ukraine dial 380 followed by the city code and phone number. While calling a mobile phone, use the operator’s code instead of a city code. lviv.inyourpocket.com Shopping Antiques AntiqUA D-4, Valova 25, tel. (+380) 32 242 04 23/ (+380) 67 948 48 97. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Arsenal Salon D-4, Pidval’na 5, tel. (+380) 32 275 30 55. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Art Vernisazh B-2, Teatral’na 23A, tel. (+380) 322 72 00 54. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Gothic Hall C-3, Rynok pl. 6, tel. (+380) 32 272 60 91. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Books Knyharnia Ye B-4, Svobody prosp. 7, tel. (+380) 32 272 85 74. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Ukrains’ka Knyharnia C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 6, tel. (+380) 32 272 16 30. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Food & Drink Alco Market A-3, Teatral’na 8, tel. (+380) 32 297 56 69. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A Opera Market A-3, Svobody prosp. 27, tel. (+380) 32 295 88 07, www. operapassage.com/en. A wide range of gourmet foods from various corners of Europe, fresh vegetables and fruits, own pastry - any products for different tastes. A cellar in the basement contains a great variety of first class vines. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. AW Polyana A-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 2, tel. (+380) 32 240 30 03 QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A Svit Napoiv A-3, Svobody prosp. 25, tel. (+380) 32 260 13 59. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A Gifts & Souvenirs Magnets Museum-Shop C-4, Serbs‘ka 9, tel. (+380) 32 235 80 32, www.muzey.lviv.ua. Opera Decor A-3, Svobody prosp. 27, tel. (+380) 32 295 88 07, www. operapassage.com/en. Heartful souvenirs and gifts, hand-made by Lviv artists or imported from renown craftsmen hot spots. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. AW Ravlyk B-4, Svobody prosp. 15, tel. (+380) 32 243 35 99, www.ravlyk-art.com.ua. Art salon and gallery. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Tsikava Kramnychka A-6, Stefanyka 15, tel. (+380) 32 261 00 01. Jewellery Amphora C-5, Kniazia Romana 6, tel. (+380) 32 225 52 67. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Diamant B-4, Katedral’na pl. 8, tel. (+380) 32 272 45 22. Halyts’ki Zolotari I-4, Shota Rustaveli 4, tel. (+380) 32 275 08 74. Kleopatra B-2, Knizia Yaroslava Osmomysla pl. 28/ (+380) 32 272 09 80. Solomiya C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 30, tel. (+380) 32 261 18 71, www.solomiya.lviv.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. lviv.inyourpocket.com Shopping Malls King Cross Leopolis Stryis’ka 30, Sokilnyky, tel. (+380) 32 242 05 80, info@kingcross.com.ua, www.kingcross.com.ua. King Cross is the largest mall in western Ukraine. The mall has a total area of 116 546 sq. m. on two levels; including an Auchan hypermarket with an area of 13 000 sq. m. and over 100 commercial stores, boutiques, cafes, and restaurants. The mall is bright and spacious. One could imagine oneself in any major city in the world! For recreation there is a bowling alley, ice rink, and an Imax movie complex. There is plenty of parking, both above and below ground. A taxi from the city centre costs 40-50Hr. There are some city based marshrutkas to/from the Mall but we weren’t that adventurous. Future expansion of the mall is planned and will include an additional 130 stores, and the parking area will be increased by 600 parking spaces. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAL Magnus A-2, Shpytal’na 1, tel. (+380) 32 244 42 65, www.magnus-store. com. The original building of the Magnus shopping centre was built in 1912-1913 by the renowned Polish architect Roman Felinski. Architecture historians believe that the model for the architect was the structure of the shopping centre in Berlin on Leipziger Strasse built in 1896 by the architect Alfred Messel. It is a shining example of world industrial-commercial architecture of the early 20th century. Until 2003 it was known as the Soviet style department store TsUM. It is considered by some as the best shopping centre in Western Ukraine. There are many international brands represented such as; Trussardi, Ferre, Apriori, Oui, Carre Blanc, Blumarine, John Richmond etc. Magnus is situated in the very centre of Lviv. The sight from the bistro windows on the top floor is lovely. One can see the Opera House, Vysokyi Zamok, streets and the old city. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. PAULW Opera Passage A-3, Svobody prosp. 27, tel. (+380) 32 245 20 36, www.operapassage.com/ en. This modern and classy shopping mall found its place right in the very heart of Lviv on Svobody prosp. in a few steps from the Opera Theatre. The building which now hosts Opera Passage long ago was a luxurious hotel and during the Soviet times it hosted a fashion house. Today Opera Passage occupies 7 floors or 5500 sq. m. of the historical building. A wide range of well-known brands could be found here which can satisfy the most hard-to-please customers. Women and men clothes, shoes, underwear, accessories, jewellery, cosmetics, perfumes and kids’ supplies will offer their best for you. For your service there are also a number of restaurants and cafés, supermarket and premium wine cellar one can get high quality alcohol. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. PAW Spring 2012 51 52 Lifestyle directory 24-hour pharmacies Dentists Apteka #12 G-3, Ivana Ohiyenka 5, tel. (+380) 32 274 85 35. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Apteka #2 A-3, Tyktora 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 50 48. QOpen 24hrs. D.S. C-4, Halyts’ka 19, tel. (+380) 32 274 20 06. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Tico C-6, Jokhara Dudayeva 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 50 87. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. ABM-Vitadent I-4, Skel‘na 1/9, tel. (+380) 32 260 23 57. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Ortadent Assistance G-3, Zamknena 6, tel. (+380) 32 297 07 47. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. K.M.K. G-4, Kotliarevs‘koho 27/2, tel. (+380) 32 237 30 20. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Beauty salons Ellada F-4, Mel’nyka 18, tel. (+380) 32 298 16 62. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Eurosport I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 276 33 28. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. C Formula of beauty Stryiska 202, tel. (+380) 32 295 85 55. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Grand Sophia C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. (+380) 32 297 40 94. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - Aphrodita J-3, Lychakivs’ka 45, tel. (+380) 32 275 50 49. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Aventin G-3, Petra Doroshenka 23, tel. (+380) 32 261 03 20. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Bel Palaссo C-6, Saksahans’koho 10, tel. (+380) 32 261 66 82, fax (+380) 32 261 66 98. Elite D-5, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 4, tel. (+380) 32 275 68 92. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Formula of beauty K-4, Levyts’koho 4, tel. (+380) 322 25 58 57. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Lel C-3, Drukars’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 297 56 36/261 66 82, fax (+380) 32 261 66 98. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Sharel H-3, Kopernyka 30, tel. (+380) 32 244-44-47, www.sharel.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Victoria C-3, Danyla Halyts’koho pl. 3/1A, tel. (+380) 32 297 56 19. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Private clinics Alternatyva E-5, Heroiv UPA 73, tel. (+380) 32 232 77 83/(+380) 32 230 18 72, www.alt-med.com.ua. The main area of Alternatyva is treating all kinds of infertility of men and women. Also the clinic provides all kinds of gynaecological services from preventive examinations for ultrasound examination of internal organs. Pregnant women are examined using the latest ultrasound equipment that allows to detect pathology fatal development even at the early stages of pregnancy. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00 Closed Sat, Sun. Lviv Regional Diagnostic Centre K-3, Pekarska 69B, tel. (+380) 32 275 49 90. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Medical F-3, Horodots‘ka 85/227, tel. (+380) 32 240 37 67, www.medikal.lviv.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Prostir Medical Centre A-3, Svobody prosp. 33, tel. (+380) 32 242 15 90, www.prostir.lviv.ua. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. K.M.K. G-4, Kotliarevs‘koho 27/2, tel. (+380) 32 237 30 20. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Dry cleaners Bulbashki (Bubbles Laundry) Volodymyra Velykoho 117, tel. (+380) 32 247 49 24, bulbashki@gmail.com, bulbashki.com. QOpen 9:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PUV Chysto A-4, Petra Doroshenka 15, tel. (+380) 32 298 94 74. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Eurochystka A-2, Panteleymona Kulisha 17. Also at I-4, Ivana Franka 61, tel. 0 32 276 27 79; A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 6. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Lviv In Your Pocket Fitness clubs 21:30. Billiard & Bowling Berkli K-5, Kerchens’ka 15A, tel. (+380) 32 276 14 69. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. 30-36Hr per hour. Billiard Centre G-1, Kleparivs’ka 30, tel. (+380) 32 233 32 94. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. 30-40Hr. VIP hall - 60Hr. Classic E-4, Heroiv UPA 80, tel. (+380) 32 238 13 98. QOpen 14:00 - 04:00. 45Hr per hour. Mi 100 Naukova 7, tel. (+380) 32 224 47 53/(+380) 93 783 51 83, www.mi100.lviv.ua. This is a great adult entertainment center located in the outskirts of Lviv so a car or taxi is advised. There is a proper 8 lane bowling, billiards, a pub with live music daily, karaoke and a strip club. There is a lounge for relaxing and a great restaurant with European cuisine. There is outdoor seating in warm weather. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. 90-165Hr. TA Ostrava Bowling E-5, Yevhena Konoval’tsya 103, tel. (+380) 32 295 38 86. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 60-120Hr per hour. Swimming pools Aquapark Kniahyni Olhy 114, tel. (+380) 32 263 60 55. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Admission 20-40Hr. Dynamo G-4, Vitovs’koho 53, tel. (+380) 32 238 64 16. Q 06:00 - 08:15, 13:30 - 15:00, 19:15 - 21:30. 25Hr per hour. Eurosport I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 276 33 28. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. 70Hr per hour. Grand Sophia C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. (+380) 32 297 40 94. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30. 80Hr per hour. Children - 40Hr. Tennis Dynamo Yaneva 10, tel. (+380) 32 263 24 20. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00. 50Hr per hour. L Eurosport I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 276 33 28. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. 60Hr per hour. AL Ukraina F-4, Mel’nyka 18, tel. (+380) 32 237 73 32. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00. 50Hr per hour. L lviv.inyourpocket.com Business directory Accountants & Consulting European Business Association G-4, Stepana Bandery 6, office 3, tel. (+380) 32 261 29 28, fax (+380) 32 261 22 68, lviv@eba.com.ua, www. eba.com.ua. EBA brings together more than 800 European, Ukrainian and multinational companies to enjoy a broad scope of unique benefits and activities. PricewaterhouseCoopers E-4, Heroiv UPA 72, tel. (+380) 32 242 53 05, pwc.ukraine@ua.pwc.com, www. pwc.com/ua. Banks Erstebank B-4, Svobody prosp. 5, tel. (+380) 32 298 90 86, www.erstebank.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Prominvestbank B-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 2, tel. (+380) 32 260 14 92, www.pib.com.ua. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Raiffeisen Bank Aval A-5, Kopernyka 14, tel. (+380) 32 297 06 75, www.aval.ua/en. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Ukreximbank B-5, Mickiewicza pl. 4, tel. (+380) 32 297 01 77, www.eximb.com/eng. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Ukrsotsbank B-4, Mickiewicza pl. 10, tel. (+380) 32 244 05 01/(+380) 32 244 05 58, www.usb.com.ua/en. Evening cashier’s office until 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Express mail DHL E-3, Chernivets’ka 9, tel. (+380) 32 242 64 00, fax 0 32 242 64 01, www.dhl.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. FedEx Naukova 5A, office 215, tel. (+380) 32 298 16 05, www.fedex.com. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TNT Bohdana Khmel’nyts’koho 212, corp. 2, tel. (+380) 32 242 02 50, www.tnt.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. UPS Horodots’ka 205, tel. (+380) 32 238 43 55/297 07 48, www.ups.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Foreign representations Austria C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 26, tel. (+380) 322 61 20 14. Belarus E-3, Hors’koii 2, tel. (+380) 322 37 27 30/ (+380) 322 99 24 60, fax (+380) 322 99 24 60. Belgium D-6, Ivana Franka 14, tel. (+380) 32 260 20 80/(+380) 32 260 01 49. Brazil E-2, Cholovs’koho 2, tel. (+380) 322 97 11 51/ (+380) 322 97 65 08, fax (+380) 322 97 11 77. Canada D-5, Akademika Bohomoltsya 2, ap.4, tel. (+380) 322 97 17 72, fax (+380) 322 97 81 54. Georgia B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. (+380) 322 97 40 98/59 32 32, fax (+380) 322 76 94 84. Germany D-5, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 6, tel. (+380) 322 75 71 02, fax (+380) 322 76 28 40. lviv.inyourpocket.com Officials City Council C-4, pl. Rynok 1, tel. (+380) 32 254 60 06, fax (+380) 32 274 40 85, www.city-adm.lviv. ua/zed/index.php?lang=en. Ministry of Foreign Affairs D-4, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 18, office 118-119, tel. (+380) 32 235 64 78/(+380) 322 98 62 55, www.mfa.gov.ua/mfa/en. Hungary Kniahyni Olhy 116, tel. (+380) 322 64 58 22/ (+380) 322 24 43 90, fax (+380) 322 64 15 23. Italy C-6, Jokhara Dudayeva 2, tel. (+380) 322 72 27 56. Kazakhstan G-2, Yakova Rappoporta 6, tel. (+380) 322 25 57 67. Latvia Viacheslava Chornovola 57, tel. (+380) 322 40 33 70/(+380) 322 94 82 20, fax (+380) 322 94 82 23. Lithuania H-4, Kotsubyns’koho 13/1, tel. (+380) 322 98 96 50. Mexico D-6, Akademika Bohomol’tsya 15, tel. (+380) 322 75 95 95, fax (+380) 322 25 77 56. Netherlands G-5, Akademika Sakharova 42, tel. (+380) 322 97 19 06/(+380) 322 97 14 49. Poland I-5, Ivana Franka 110, tel. (+380) 322 97 08 61/(+380) 322 97 08 62. Russia K-4, Levyts’koho 95, tel. (+380) 322 75 24 63/ (+380) 322 75 05 77, www.lviv.mid.ru. Laweyrs Arzinger G-4, Henerala Chuprynky 6, tel. (+380) 32 242 96 96, mail@arzinger.ua, www.arzinger.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J&L Consulting H-2, Sholom-Aleikhema 11, tel. (+380) 322 97 05 97, fax (+380) 322 97 05 95, j-l@j-l.com.ua, www.j-l.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kaizen G-5, Komaryntsia 2, tel. (+380) 32 247 35 36, info@kaizen-law.com, www.kaizen-law.com. Lviv Regional Lawyers Bar D-4, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 6/8, tel. (+380) 32 272 16 24. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Soldatenko, Lukashyk & Partners C-3, Virmens’ka 18/18, tel. (+380) 32 235 76 42, info@slp.com.ua, www.slp.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Translators & Language courses International House I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 3, tel. (+380) 32 225 51 90, www.ihlviv.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Language Fast D-6, Levyts’koho 3/1, tel. (+380) 32 275 16 19. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Lider - Centre of Foreign Languages I-4, Ivana Franka 33, office 4, tel. (+380) 32 243 69 16, cim-lider@ukr.net, www.lider.lviv.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Runa Agency of For eign Languages B-5, Chaikovs’koho 12/12, tel. (+380) 32 298 69 69, www. runa.org.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Spring 2012 53 54 Street register Kotsylovs’kohoJ/K-5 Krakivs’ka B-2/3, C-3, I-2 Krekhivs’kaG/H-1 Kremenets’kaE-5 Kropyvnyts’koi pl. F-3 Kryva Lypa prov. A-4, H-3 KubiyovychaI-5 KushevychaH-1 Henerala Hryhorenka pl. H-2 Akademika Andriya Kvitky-OsnovianenkaF-2 Henerala Hrytsaia J/K-5 Sakharova F-5, G-4/5 KvitnevaF-5 Henerala Tarnavs’koho Akademika Bohomol’tsia Kyivs’kaF-4 J-4/5, I-5 D-5/6, I-3 Kyryla i Mefodiia H/I-4 Henerala Yunakieva E-1/2 Akademika Filatova J-3 Lazneva A-2, H-2 Henerala Zasiad’ka G-5 Akademika Hnatiuka Lemkivs’kaH-1 Heroiv UPA E/F-4 A-3/4, H-2/3 LeontovychaG-2 Hertsena C-6, I-4 Akademika Kravchuka J-3 Lesi Ukrainky B/D-3, I-2 HlibovaH-4 Akademika Krypiakevycha Lesia Kurbasa A-3/4, H-2 HlybokaF/G-4 K-3 Levandivs’kaE-1 Holovats’kohoF-3 Akademika Liul’ky A-1, H-1 Levyts’koho D-6, I/K-4 HopsovaE-5 Akademika Pavlova J-4 LiainberhaH-2 Horodots’ka Akademika Romana Kuchera Lips’kaE-4 A/B-2, A-3, E/G-3, G/H-2 G-2 LisnaK-2/3 Horodyns’kyhE-5 Akademika Serhiya LitniaH-5 Hrabovs’kohoG/H-4 Yefremova E-5, F-4 Lobachevs’kohoI-1 HrebinkyH-2 Albans’kaK-5 LukashaG-5 Hrets’kaH-5 Anatoliya Vakhnianyna K-5 Luts’kohoE-1/2 Hryhorovycha B-6, I-3/4 Aral’s’kaK-5 L’va Tolstoho I/J-5 Hutsul’s’kaJ-2 Arkhitektors’kaG-3/4 Lychakivs’kaI/K-3 Hvardiys’kaG-4/5 Azovs’kaK-5 Lypneva pl. E-4 Illariona Sventsits’koho I-5 Bankivs’ka A-4, B-4/5, H-3 Lysenka D-3, I/K-2 Ivana Bohuna G-4 Barvins’kyhJ-2 Lystopadovoho Chynu G/H-3 Ivana Fedorova Baturyns’kaG-1 Lyzhvjiars’kaH-5 C-3/4, D-4, I-2/3 BazarnaG-1/2 M. Slobodivny J-4 Ivana Franka D-5/6, I-3/4 Beryndy B/C-4, H/I-3 MagazynovaF-2 Ivana Franka pl. I-5 BibliotechnaG-3/4 Maiera Balabana A-2, H-2 Ivana Gonty B/C-2, I-2 Bohdana Khmel’nyts’koho Maksyma Kryvonosa Ivana Gorbachevs’koho F-5 B-1/2, H/J-1, H/I-2 D-2, I/J-2 Ivana Karpyntsia G-5 Bohdana Lepkoho I-2/3 Maksyma Zalizniaka E-4 Ivana Levyns’koho F-4 Boi-Zelens’kohoG-5 MalaJ/K-3 Ivana Ohiyenka G-2/3 Bolhars’kaH-5 Malaniuka pl. B-5, H-3 Ivana Pidkovy pl. B-4, H-3 Borysa Romanyts’koho G-4 Marka Vovchka F-2/3 Ivana Rutkovycha I-5 Brativ Mikhnovs’kyh F-2/3 Markiyana Shashkevycha pl. Ivana Sharanevycha E/F-2 Brativ Rohatyntsiv C/D-4, I-3 G-4 Johara DudaievaB/C-6, H/I-3 Brativ Tymoshenkiv G-4 Martovycha B/C-6, I-4 Josypa Slipoho J-4/5 BriulovaG-4 MateikaG-3 Kalicha Hora A/B-6, H-4 BrovarnaG-2 MechnikovaK-3/4 KameniarivG-3 Cathedral’na pl. B/C-4, I-3 Medova A/B-1, H-1 Karaims’kaI-1 Chaikovs’koho Mel’nykaE/F-4 KarmalukaK-3 A/B-6, B/C-5, H/I-3 MendeleevaH/I-4 Karpats’kaJ-4/5 ChekhovaJ-3 Mentsyns’kohoH-2 Karpins’koho F-4, G-3 ChereshnevaI-4 Meretyna Bernarda F-3 Kastelivka F-5, G-4 Chernihivs’kaJ-3 MetrolohichnaF-5 Katliars’kaH-2 Chernivets’kaE-3 Mickiewicza B-5, I-3 Kerchens’kaK-5 ChervonaF-5 Modesta Sosenka F-1 Kharkivs’kaK-2/3 Cholovs’kohoE-2 MorozenkaF-2 KhimichnaH-1 Danyla Halyts’koho pl.C-2, I-2 Morshyns’kaF-5 KholodnohoK-5 DekartaF-3 Muliars’ka A/B-1, H-2 Khorvats’kaG-2 Denysa Lukjianovycha G-4 MuravyG/H-3 Khotyns’kaF-3 Det’ka B-1/2, H-1 Museina pl. C-3, I-2 KhudozhniaE-4 Dmytra Bortnians’kohoE/F-2 Mykhaila Hrushevs’koho I-4 Kleparivs’kaG-1/2 Dmytra Danilyshyna A-2, H-2 Mykhaila Verbyts’koho G-4 Klionovycha D-6, I-3 Dmytra Dontsova J-3 Mykhaila Yatskoho F-1 Kniahyni Ol’hy F-5 Dmytra Huni F-1 Mykhal’chuka A-3, H-2 KniazhaJ-2 Dmytra Vitovs’koho Myklukho-MaklaiaJ-2 Kniazia Leva C-2, I-2 G/H-4, H/I-5 Mykoly Voronoho B-5, H/I-3 Kniazia Mstyslava Udaloho Dniprovs’kaJ-4/5 Mykoly Zerova E-4 A/B-2, H-2 Dolyns’kohoH/I-1 Mytna pl. D-5, I-3 Kniazia Romana C-5/6, I-3 DoroshaJ-4 Mytropolyta Andriya F-3 Kniazia Yaroslava Osmomysla Drahomanova C-6, H/I-4 Mytropolyta AngelovychaF-3 pl. B-2, H-2 Drohobycha A-4/5, H-3 Mytropolyta Lepkivs’koho Kniazya Sviatoslava pl. F-2 Drukars’ka C-3, I-2 K-2 Kobylians’koiI-4 Dvortsova pl. E-3 Nalyvaika A-3, H-2 KokorudzaF-4 Dzherel’naH-1/2 Nasypna C-2, I-2 Kol’beraG-4 Dzherel’naH-1 Nechuia-Levyts’kohoG-4 KolessyH-4 DzyndryH-5 NekrasovaJ/K-3 Koliivschyny pl. D-4, I-3 Fed’kovychaE-3/4 Nizhyns’kaK-3 KomarovaE/F-2 Ferentza Lizta B-5, H-3 Novakivs’kohoG-3 KomaryntsiaG-5 Furmans’ka A-3, H-2 Novyi Svit F/G-4 Konopnyts’koiI-4 GalileiaK-4 Nyz’kyi Zamok B-3, H-2 Konotops’kaE-5 Gazova A-1, H-1 Odes’kaF-3 KooperatyvnaF-2/3 GlynkyG-5 OhirkovaI-1 Kopernyka GogoliaG-3 Oleksandra ArkhypenkaI-4/5 A-5/6, B-5, G/H-4, H/I-3 Gors’koiiE-3/4 Oleksandra Fredra C-6, I-3/4 KordubyJ/K-1 Grunval’ds’kaF-4 Oleksandra Konys’koho I/J-4 Korniakta B-3, H/I-2 Haidamats’kaI-1 Oleksandra Olesia K-5 KoroliovaJ-5 Halyts’ka C-4, I-3 Oleksy Dovbusha J-2 KorotkaE/F-3 Halyts’ka pl. C-4, I-3 Oleny Pchilky I-4 KortumivkaG-2 Hanny Barvinok E/F-5 Oleny Stepanivny E/F-2 Kostiushka A-4, H-3 Hartmana Vitvera J-3 Oleny Telihy K-5 KostomarovaI-4 Havryshkevycha C-3, I-2 Olhy Basarab J-5 Kotliarevs’kohoF/G-4 Henerala Chuprynky Ol’zhychaK-5 Kotliars’ka A-2, H-2 E/F-5, F/G-4 Opil’s’kohoF-4 Kotsubyns’kohoH-4/5 Henerala Hrekova G-1 E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Lviv In Your Pocket Opryshkivs’kaJ-1 Ostapa Nyzhankivs’koho C-5, I-3 Ostrohrads’kyhG-5 Ostrozhs’kohoK-3 OzarkevychaF/G-3 OzheshkoE-5 PaliiaI-4 PanchyshnaK-5 Panteleymona Kulisha A-1/2, H-1/2 PaparivkaI/J-1 ParfanovychivJ-3 ParkovaI-5 PasternakaE-4 Pavla Kovzhuna B-5/6, I-3 PavlykaJ-4 Pekars’ka D-5, I/J-3, J/K-4 Peremys’kaE-5 Pereyaslavs’kaJ-5 PerovaF-3 Petra Doroshenka A-4/5, B-4, G/H-3 Pid Dubom H-1 Pidval’na D-3/4, I-2/3 Pidmurna B-2, H-2 PidzamcheI-1 Pisha C-2, I-2 PiskovaK-3 Pochaivs’kaK-1 PoguliankaK-5 PokhylaG-5 PolischukaE-4 PolitekhnichnaG-4 Popovycha B-6, H/I-4 Povstans’kaE-5 Profesors’kaG-3/4 Prosvity D-4, I-3, J-2 PryrodnaF-5 Pyl’nykars’ka B-1, C-2, I-2 RepinaK-3 Rizni pl. A-2, H-2 Rodyny Krushel’nyts’kyh J/K-5 RomanchukaJ-4 Rudans’koho B/C-5, I-3 Rus’ka C/D-4, I-2/3 RusovyhF-4 Rybna C-2, I-2 RyleievaG-3 Ryl’s’kohoJ-4 Rymlianyna D-5, I-3 Rynok pl. C-3/4, I-2/3 S. Ludkevycha I-5 Sadovs’kohoK-3 Saksahans’koho C-6, I-4 SamiylenkaI/J-4 SarjianaE-4 Schekavyts’kaE-2 SchepkinaG-3 SechenovaF-3 Sels’kyhE-4/5 Serbs’ka C-4, I-3 SeveryI-5 Sheptyts’kyhF-3 Shevchenka E-1, F/G2 Shevchenka prosp. C-5/6, I-3/4 Shevs’ka B-3, I-2 Shkil’naI-1 Sholom-AleikhemaH-2 ShopenaH-2 Shota Rustavelli I-4/5 Shpytal’naH-2 Shukhevycha C/D-6, I-3 ShymzerivK-4 Sians’ka B-2, H-2 Sichovykh Stril’tsiv A-4, H-3 SimsotrichchiaH-1 Skel’naI-4 SklianaF-1/2 SkovorodyK-3 Slovats’koho A-5, H-3 Smal’-Stots’kohoE-4 Smerekova B/C-1, I-1 Smol’s’kohoJ-3 Snopkivs’kaI-5 Soborna pl. D-5, I-3 SolodovaK-3 Solomii Krushel’nyts’koi G/H-3 SorokhteyaE-1 Stara B-2, H-2 Staroyevreis’ka C/D-4, I-3 Stavropihiys’ka C-3, I-2 Staroznesens’kaK-1 Staryi Rynok pl. B-2, I-2 Staryts’kohoF-4 Stepana Bandery F-3/4, G-4 Stefanyka A-5/6, B-6, H-3/4 Stets’ka C-6, I-4 StorozhenkaE-2 StrimkaI-1 Stryis’kaG/I-5 Students’kaJ/K-5 Sviatoho Yura pl. G-3 Svobody prosp. H-2/3 Sydora Holubovycha F-3 Tamans’kaH-2 Tatars’kaH/I-1 Teatral’na B-2/4, H-2, I-3 TekhnichnaG-3 TershakivtsivJ-3/4 TeslenkaH-1 TobilevychaF-4 Tomashivs’koho B-6, H-3 Torhova pl. A-2, H-2 TsekhovaH-1 Tugan-Baranovs’kohoJ-3/4 Turets’kaH-5 Turians’kohoF-1 TutunnykivI-5 Tykha B-5, H-3 Tyktora A-3, H-2 Ulasa Samchuka I-5 Universytets’kaH-3 UstyianovychaG-3 Uzhhorods’ka C/D-1, I-2 Vagova A-2, H-2 Valova C/D-4, I-3 VasylevychaJ-4 Vasylkivs’kohoE-4 VenetsianovaH-4 Verkhats’kohoJ-3 VernyhoryF-2/3 Vesela B-1, H-1/2 VeteranivG-1 Viacheslava Chornovola prosp. A-1/2, H-1/2 Vicheva C-2, I-2 Vicheva pl. B-3, H-2 Virmens’ka B/C-3, H/I-2 VodohinnaJ-5 Volodymyra Antonovycha E-4/5, F-4 Volodymyra Ivasuka J-4/5 Volodymyra Korolenka J-2/3 Volodymyra Vynnychenka D-2/5, I-2/3 VoloschakaH/I-5 Voloshyna C-6, I-3/4 Volos’kaI-5 Vuz’kaJ-3 ViytovychaF-3 Vyshens’kohoK-3 Vyshyvanoho pl. I-5 Vysokyi Zamok D-1, I/J-2 Yakova Rappoporta G-2 Yapons’kaF-4 Yaroslava Mudroho F-2/3 Yaroslava Prstaka G-2 YasnaE-2 Shevs’ka B-3, I-2 YeroshenkaE/F-1 YeroshenkaG-1 Yevgena Konoval’tsya E-4/5, F-4 Yevgena Petrushevycha I-4 ZakharievychaF-4 Zaklyns’kyhK-1 ZaliznychnaE-2/3 Zamarstynivs’ka B-1, H-1 ZamknenaG-3 Zamkova C/D-1, D-2, I-1 Zan’kovets’koiJ-3 Zaryts’kyhH/I-5 ZdorovjiaF-4 Zelena I/J-4, J/K-5 Zernova A-2, H-2 Zhovkivs’kaI-1 Zhukovs’kohoF-4 Zhyzhky B-2/3, H/I-2 Zolota F-1, G-2 Zvenyhorods’ka pl. B-2, I-2 c ynny henka ra V Volodymy Aka d CA enk a 7 3 Kliono vych1a1 a dr Fre em 11 ika А Bo MX ho 10 mol’ tsy a 8 3 ch a evy sena Her7t BE 9 5 a 3 Ivana Franka6 My k 22 3 an ov a Dr ah om 34 1 ra Pekars’k 5 7 Levyts 9 ’koh 4 10 © ДНВП "Картографія", 2011 © Lviv In Your Pocket, 2011 15 ha vyc ans’koho o Pop 8 Martovycha 3А 6 nd sa ek Ol 2 12 16 3 2 AT lian 3 yna 1 o 9 7 12 Saksah Kalicha H ora 12 2 5 2 cha ovy 6 39 Dudayeva 22 hor Hry 19 14 kh Shu 5 9 yka 6 4 IT 8 10 ara Jokh a shyn Volo oho s’k 8 shiv 3 a Tom 18 Shevchenko Swiss Johann Pinzel 4 1 12 4 5 10 na aik 7 Ch 1 3 Stefa n Kyiv DE Soborna pl. 9 11 pros16p. ho ’ko 1 m 9 nka8 u Kovzh 1 s ov 3 Lychakivs’ka Mytna pl. Ry 7 5 vl a Pa Philharmonic Vol ody my ra 3А The Bernardine Monastery 2 1 13 1 12 Vyn nyc 8 h a Valov 2А a 31 20 17 Ostapa t Liz 15 34 37 16 Stets’ka 25 Viache7sla 3 prosp. iv ’ts Zamkova 27 ola Chornov 9 va 21 8 17 6А 1 4 St ril 16 va pl. Koliivschyny na 1/3 oma 28 zia R Knia 1N6yzhankivs’koho a Shevche tz en ’ koho 1 6 The Weapon Museum “Arsenal” 35 28 13 ro Fedo Vintage 11 a 9 9 ’ka 3 yc h Ivana 1 rbs’ka Se 8 Halyts na 9 o dan s 24 a Drukars’k 2 l’ Teatra 6 3 r Fe noh 3 15 20А Prosvity 16 Halyts’ka pl. George Ru 32 l’na Pidva 9 6А 4 3 p. ob 4 va iche ’ka pros 9 oh Smеrе kоv а 41 26 24 Kulisha Panteleymona Kotliars’ka va 1 sh yn a Zamko a Rybn 5 Da ny ly 2 ’ka Krakivs ody 14 rs yka 16 urna Pidm Teatral’na 22 2 o h ’ko 1 ats 6 5 The Assumption Church Rus’ka 19 21 Valova 6 Mickiewicza pl. 23 4 Lviv History 14 ha T yk 2 4 3 Lyse2nka The Church of Archangel Mikhail Religion History is’ka yevre Staro Ne Zhurys’ siv atynt v Roh Brati 9 1 a Museina pl. Pharmacy Central Square Cathedral’na pl. 9 10 2 pl. Malaniuka 5 16 a The Dominican Cathedral 21 5 ka The Scientific Library (Ossolineum) y 4 ka vs’ nki Ba Dr 8 20 ohо s’k 17 25 ho 24 1 8 32 St ef a ny 27 pl. Rynok The Latin Cathedral 3 ro Vo oly 6 mо k onos Kryv syma Mak 11 13 Lviv Art Gallery na 12 43 1 d Beryn a 8 pe Ko Zа 5 Havryshke vych City Hall GE Lyp v Slo 37 6 Nasyp Ancient Lviv History Ivana Pidkovy pl. 11 Kopernyk Pisha Danyla Halyts’koho pl. The Armenian Cathedral Reikartz Medievale s’ka Shev 1 4 Park Vysokyi Zamok ky i 2 15 4 Leopolis 2 Vy Pyl’n 31 Stara b Svo a ryv 2 ka 5 a yk rn Lesi Ukrai nky 8 v. K 8 36 1 35 13 9 24 Kinopalats Vienna Hotel a nk he 15 18 ros Do 20 tra e P 2 14 26 Virmens’ka Grand Hotel sо Puppets Natural History p. Ethnography and Art Crafts 12 Korniakta The Church of the Jesuit Order 2 pro h yk ov h c S i Ko 15 sti us h The Church of the Transfiguration National pros H na tiuka 2 2 4 body 12 Lesia Kurbasa a 1 V 2 6 31 Tyktora Children and Youth Kosmonaut 35 3 Akade16m ik pl. Staryi Rynok Natalia 18 Nyz’kyi Zamok 6 8 11 1 orods’ka Uzhh11 12 14 18 7 Leva a zi a The Church of Benedictines ni of the Snow 5 Zvenyhorods’ka pl. Iv ana Gon 4 ty Zhyzhky 1 Vicheva pl. Svo khal’chuka My 3 6 19 The Drama Theatre 2 Les’ Kurbas 2 K pl. Kniazia Yaroslava Osmomysla The Opera House Opera 9 Ancient Lviv The Church of St. John the Baptist Memorials 6 ’k a 6 SCALE 1:8000 10А 5 6 5 Sians’ka Torhova pl. D OLD TOWN The Church of Our Lady 37 Na l a 14 aik yv 3 C 13 7 49 4 19 8 na H 8 10 4 s’ka 15 Furman 17 3 3 2 ts do o r Kyiv o 2А 7 4 Lazneva Shpy 8 tal 9 ’ 7 3 7 St. Nicholas Church 5 Kniazia Mstyslava Udatno pl. Rizni Lviv Vagova ’ka Muliars’ka Zernova 2 6 5 5 2 el a 11 va Medo Ves 2 14 1 Medova 7 B s tyniv 7 39 1 a Det’k 4 31 Gazova Zamar s A Liul’ky t l’n y vul. Bоhdаnа Kh me Akademika 12 ava chesl G 65 2 26 39 3 yk a 52 Ko p 31 er 7 45 De 18 nis a 2 41 Panteleym 21 17 Kotliars’ka 6А 4 1 1 2 a Dmytr2 Da nil ys hy na ts iv 13 ha yc 11 The Citadel Park Hvardiys'ka 27 ho ’ka Vit ov s’k o 3 39 Za 9 5 Po kh Bo 7 yla iZ he len s’k oh o 33 5 The Cent 2 Karpyntsia 41 a Bolh ars Glynky H Za ene sia ra d’k la a a sh Dr oh leie 1 va Te 2 3 kh 4 nic hn a Ry 3 9 13 7 22 9 24 20 4 Ko ma ry n tsia s’k yh 4 rad 4А Ol’ Kn ia g yn i Citadel Inn 18 22 40 42 Akadem hy Pry rod na 14 Za m knena 12 11 Politekhnichna 9 4 12 22 revs’ko ho netsianova ov s’k Ve sy oh 30 es o l Ko 18 Hv ard iys ’ka 42 a von a 6А y Litn Che r 12 Hr ab 20 58 16 4 Profesors’ka Arkhitektors’ka 5 14 16 20 ot lia An 50 dr ika 83 98 87 8 6 14 Os troh 4 1 84 81 Sa kh aro va 74 63 5 94 iya ev a Kv it n 16 Dzherel’na Kh imi 5 a Khorv 19 ats’k 10 12 29 21 11 jia 6 7 12 14 2 or ov 32 Ye rg iya Se 77 6 10 8 10 16 2 KvitkyO s 50 36 40 ov a fre m Zd 2 11 17 27 22 65 de mi ka 79 Ak a ob enka novia n 12 50А 2 1 11 2 8 2 9 yh 8 15 27 4 18 ho ko 2 56 kry ta s’k Sci Li (Osso ssy Kole ho ko 12 Vid 1 Ivan a 21 rad 4 32 1 The Lion’s Castle 16 6 Os 12 tro h 37 41 23 pl. Markiyana Shashkevycha tra B a ts’ va Slo a nk 65 27 Luk 36 3 38 40А 51 77 l’n he 49 59 n9 ho ivTymoshenkiv rat Students’kyi Park 8 a s’k tet rus y Dm a 23 38 vs’ he ac orb aG n Iva Mo ivk tel s Ka ’ r il St 12 15 h 8 Romanyts’koho4 a livk ste Ka NL lohic hna Akad16em a rsy a 16 7 hk ive tra61 Pe 64 a 8 16 e sh Rusalky ro Dnisrovoi Do 47 20 a rys Bo 25 66 2 e 9 o rb oh 8 yts’ ko s’k ov K mii riv nia me Кa 3 21 l r iu Le 8 vyts ’koh 62 o 3 Bo hu na Lviv-Backpackers K 18 1 60 ad Ak nky Un 1 Iva8 15 B 8 3 6 9 13 otli uia K16 27 37А v are 4 na 12 era 8 l’b Ko 4 5 ch15 Ne19 18 11 1 14 9 Bandery 3 9 4 y 16 nk 22 ry 9 up Ch 11 19 i ’ko yts 1 lo So Solomii Krushel’nyts’koi n ch Stepana 15 25 23 4 ala20 Bib l House of iote Organ and Chamber Music aV ail Myk h 2 S18 2 3 6 2 ’k ka 1 a vaik aly 1 pl. 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Dzherel’n a 80 Gazova 34 10 15 58 7 12 Skli 9 ana 82 3 21 aila Yat sk 92 59 Tsekhova 11 5 12 20 10 12 14 96 67 p Simsotr Vodna Brewing en ka Pid Dubom 17 3 50 So s 23 rala Yu nakie va 73 de sta My kh Lu ts 75 Mo 11 22 34 Shopena 25 ova Turia 21 ns’k o 22 33 ho a hen13 k 108 26 2 5 23 22А 81 11 25 22 62 Dmy tra Hun16 i 2 nka ’ko 4 ho 87А Yer os 1 Veteraniv Bazarna 2 32 35 30 2 30 120А She20 vch e 4 1 24 1 Lu kjia no vyc 2 ha 20 a Baturyns’ka H a 47 42 50 chn la Zolo t Kleparivs’ka Yanivs’ke Cemetery 128 40 Ye ro sh en ka Henerala Hrekova F vo Chorno E Stryis’ky ov a che Vynny nka Volodymyra s’k a von39 osa ho Kry yma ’ ko 42А 58 rkivs’k a N Ostrozhs' koho a Rep ina Kru pya rs’k a ’ko ho e ns Sko va iko Me chn 17 Gali ley a 25 12 12 10 53 Va 8 syle 9 a 16 Lychakivs’ke Cemetery 33 45 15 35 oh ’k its ts Zele na 7 ry 2 5А 8 Albans’ka 19 4 dra Oles ia Hry 1 tsa 9 ya 26 43 10 an Kho lodn oho 3 Olen y Te 2 lihy 17 13 12 Az ov s’k a rus B a n a ha 27 18 ch6 ys hy2 na 15 Ro dy ny K a ’ka Hen 9 era la san 3 Vakh nian yn Poh ulya nka 1 Ar al 10 ’s 10 7 Olek 8 Ol’ zhy cha 104 © ДНВП "Картографія", 2011 р. c h e © Lviv In Your Pocket, 2011 р. ns ’ka Ke r 53 kiv ny 34 17 Anatoliy a 5 o 2 91 88 2 5 4 1 P 51 104Б av 109 s’k oh o 4 hel’nyts ’k y h Ta rn 12 12 Kotsylovs’koh a oliov Kor 9 1 41 45 116 10 1 1 19 10 18 32 2 Vodohinna arab RU 93 ’ka nts 6 e ud St 89 tun Tu 25 108А 9 4 91 112 2 72 B as yra 19 1 78 А 100 24 He 1 ne 07 r 10 ala 4А ym lod 15 Vo 70 11А Ol’ hy 37 18 su Iva 18 ro vs ’ka Dn ip Sli o ka 10 a 9 pa Tols toh o 32 v iko 7 a ts’k oh 106 10 po 14 ho He ne 31 J 22 27 1 ts’k 33 L’v 98 22 Ta Lev y 96 Ka 34 37 4 Me chn vs’ koh o 30 rala eva13 shn ere Ch 1 ras ova 10 Ry 7 l’s ’k 10А rna Sa mi 22 y le nk a 2 3 3 ykiv Kha do va Vys h 23 Ch ern i 34 vtsiv haki 5 3 1 15 Do ros 9 ha 1 R om anc huk 2 a 8 Pe oho 3 Tut unn y a aliu ka Parfanovyc hiv 14 a hiv12 s’k 9 20 Pa vlyk a Ters 1 Karm 10 3 13 Chekhova Dm 7 5 ytra Do ntsova Akademika Filatova Hartmana Vitvera nys 4 ’ko ho ia Pali oyi pny Kon o 3 vyc 2 h 1 a 11 Klionov ts’k 6 8 Shy mze riv ka Eney rs’ ka 50 ’ka0 9 vs 2 la as rey Pe 6 17 ’ka vs en Sv o 3 Nek 6 50 13 71 pk i o na 101 41 52 Eurohotel 9 28 osy pl. 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Slo 7 bo di v ny 17 1 a 4 5 6 24 27 Kushevych5a 11 46 25 27 a Chorn ovol 26 30 mona Kulish a 24 8 А 3 31 s 7 va s’k nihiv Nek Cher ra ko 55 ha vyc ke 53 m Akade ika Krypia 37 hilk 46 21 22 44 a ov Pc 17 40 Pis 49 o 56 va Lisna 2 oyi ’koho Mala ets’k Sadovs 15 27 Piskova 10 ’kov Zan 30 20 ko h 47 So l 47 58 y B 23 4 91 PL 7 9 Pek 45 sand ra A 9 14 rkhy pen ycha dkev2 S.Lu Kub R 1А yi Park ka 10 ny 1 a dry Dzyn 6 48 3 6А Ole S. Ludkevych Memorial Museum va o Park 16 emi6 an o 6 Akad 31 zha ia Kn 18 Dra ho m 16 14 8 4 ol’s’koho 1 Sm7 Olek 4 8 4 ia kla Ma ho kluk My s’ 26 15 1 6 ovs ’ 1 11 31 5 ka 23 22 pl. Yevgena Petrushevycha Skel’n a 1 ran 4 7 13 Akad emik a Kra 5 vchuk a Verkh ats’ko 15 ho 50 Oleksandra Ko Zele 17 19 na 12 6 10 n Iva 2 ka ’ka ran100 10415 los F ha 8 Vo ana yc 1 ov Iv utk 84 7 1 L 11А 23 34 26 17 13 2 6 sya koh o 20 8 24 36 38 ivs’ka Lychak 24А 2 ka Lysen 28 33 21 21 17 28 Tu ga nB a 10 9 29 5 20 16 15 Franka 82 3 5 76 5А nyna U Burgera 66 72 aka losch A. Vo 6 2 tral Park 7 14 2 9А Тure4 ts’ka Dmytra 2 i 68 2 5 7 Park Znesinnya 14 48 mo l’t 9 24 ’ko o ’kohpl. Ivana Vitovs 3 10 1 3 20 30 aryts’kyh ev a em 11А ika MX B 10 oh o ev1y6 t oh o 23 nd ele CA marova sto Ko ev s’k pk s’kyh 35 19 18 16 14 15 26 24 1 o oh 11 u Hr 4 9 15 sub yns 18 ’ko ho Aka d 2 13 a hail 19 7 7 ’k ns Saksa ha 12 Myk 2 va bo 7 Hli sh tropolyta Ly 23Б 1А 15 5 Pekars7 ’ 9 ka 4 24 11 10 12 BE 5 lia ns 16 5 7 9 21 27 Me 24 9 a 36 20 2 13 n om28a 34 12 Ry 3 mli 14 a 2 a vych khe Shu ra d re 15 11 Mytna pl. DE 1 sena Hert 1 3А 18 Ko by Prosvity 20А 1 F ra nd 38 Kot 32 2А 1/3 s lek National Museum k l’na Pidva 28 O 8 6 А 6 ha vyc po Po 6 va no 3 a 2 m 3 ho 26 a 8 10 rova Fedo 11 Ho12 zia R Knia16 Kali cha a AT Ma 2 2 rt ovycha 3 9 6 39 5 2 12 Vo 19 nka yna hevc16he losh ycha orov Hryh nyk a 14 6 4 a Dudayev Johara 2 22 8 10 18 20 3 Soborna pl. 15 IT 9 Stefa 5 ho ’ko hivs 8 as 3 Tom 7 4 Halyts’ka pl. ivs’koho Ostapa Nyzhank 9 zhuna 5 la Kov P av 3 23 12 7 6 1 2 1 a t Liz The ientific ibrary olineum) S prosp. 8 a ntz Wedding St ThePalace efa ny ka 15 ns koly o ’ k My ronoh 3 oho1 Vo 6 2 pl. Malaniuka ha oho 11 Tyk s’k v o 5 aik 17 Ch 1 14 Ru da re Fe9 11 M 11А 9 1 s’ka Serb 8 ’ka Halyts 3 ka vs’ 6 3А 16 21 5 arvin The Church of the Discalced Carmelite Nuns Ivana 9 24 l’na3 4 pl. Mickiewicza ka ny er 5 op Lysenka 3 2 Rus’ka 16The Assumption Church 11 9 9 consulate hotel youth hostel post office & internet hospital traine station bus station parking stadion park forest cemestry 2 11 9 35 The Latin Cathedral ’ka Koliivschyny is 34 yevre 37 siv pl. The 9 t Staro n ty a Bernardine v Roh 2017 Monastery Brati va 19 Valo 4 10 2 4 K 6А 2 City Hall Teatra 6 p. pros 9 nki Ba 2 h os 15 8 41 7 4 ’na 1 3 ka en 13 11 Olek sy 4 Dovbusha 2 2А 32 3 ody Svob a yp aL ryv v. K pro Pe or 11 a sym Kryvonosa Mak a 16 pl. Rynok Cathedral’na pl. dy Beryn iv hk ry s Op 18 4 pn Drukars’ka ’ka Teatral p. pros 2 D tra 18 15 va icheva 9 22 35 ody Svob31 Lesia Kurbasa 6 Ivana Pidkovy pl. GE 20 1 ’ka Shevs 1 16 Za main street other street monument Orthodox church35 Catholic church 33 Synagogue museum theatre architectural monuments fountain cinema 24 Havryshke s Krakiv 24 37 12 G 2 2 natiu ka 17 1 4 49 47 mika ok Staroz nesens’ka 3 klyn s’ky LEGEND: h 1 vycha 14 12 The Drama Theatre Lesi Ukra 27 33 pl. Danyla Vicheva pl. 24 inky Halyts’koho The Opera 1 The House Nyz’kyi 19 Dominican The Zamok ykhal’chuka Armenian Cathedral Virmens’ka8 M 3 Cathedral 4 6 The Church of 43 Museina Tyktora the Jesuit Order 9 pl. ns’ka urma Zam yi Vysok k Zamko a V P2 ish 6 5 Nasy 1 7 9 prosp. Viacheslav 4 1 2 Za mo 3 2 26 6 7 15 Ivana G onty 4 34 Zhyzhky 1 ok yi 6 8 409,5 . Vysokyi Zamok Mount 1 Vys 2 Stara urna 9 2 ’ka 10А Uzh11horods’12ka 14 18 7 zia Leva Knia The Church of Benedictines 2 The Church of Our Lady of the Snow pl. Kniazia Yaroslava Osmomysla Torhova pl. Korduby Park Vysokyi Zamok 11 a Ryb5n 8 13 5 20 13 4 25 16 The Church of St. John the Baptist pl. Staryi Rynok m o Pid tnoh 6 Lazneva 3 agova 25 3 Sians’ka 5 6 ’ka 8 ykars Pyl’n 16 31 4 ho 'ko 17 Bohdana Khmel'nyts 35 8 5 10 Kniazia Mstyslava Uda pl. Rizni ts do 3 2А 7 7 St. Nicholas Church 5 6 ela Ves Zernova 64 14 ova Muliars’ka mk Za 23 SCALE 1:16000 5 6 St. Onuphrius Church a ov 63 31 Med LVIV CENTRE a ov 8 s’ka7 Det’ka Medova7 2 che Pidzam8 10 1 4 51 49 16 14 5 Akademika Liul’ky 4 1 2 7 34 K 31 ka Papariv ’ka Tatars 42 iv rstyn Za11ma 9 6 39 3 a kov Ohir6 2 48 2 2 pl. richchia an Bohd Pidzamche 8 J 102 82 Strimka6 ts’ ka 15 113 o 99 koh 72 yts’ 83 el’n 66 hm K 56 a 6 a Karaims’k 12 6 2 Dolyns’ 12 koho Tatars’ka 2 2 I 3 ama Haid11 8 5 o s’koh 12 The St. chev Paraskeva Lo4ba Pyatnytsya Church 8 1 Teslenka2 11 a kivs’k Oprysh 17 H Lviv In Your Pocket ° CA Uzhhorod Przemysl L'viv Luts'k OBLAST' Kovel’ VOLYNS'KA Pinsk Rivne 50 50 100 100 150 ° 25 200 150 250 200 mi 300 km Oblast names are the same as their respective centres except were labelled. I b Danu Galati Braila Iasi Varna BULGARIA A Bati Constanta Reni Izmayil ° 30 Mouths of the Danube Chisinau Pervomays'k Uman’ Bila Tserkva Kyiv o Cherkasy pr Brovary Nizhyn B Odesa Smila L A C Sevastopol’ K S Yalta Starobil'sk UKRAINE ° 50 Berdyans'k E A Feodosiya Kerch Pr o li v Krasnodar Novorossiysk 45 FEDERATION Kuban' ° na-Donu Rostov- Novocherkassk RUSSIAN Taganrog Mariupol' SEA OF AZOV Melitopol’ ° 35 Simferopol’ AUTONOMOUS REP. OF CRIMEA Yevpatoriya Izyum Zaporizhzhia Marhanets' Kahovske Vdskh. Nikopol’ Kryvyi Rih Nova Kakhovka Kherson Zhovti Vody Dniprodzerzhyns'k Kremenchuk Poltava Kharkiv Belgorod Kursk ° 40 Slovians'k Lozova Kramators'k Stakhanov Luhans'k Pavlohrad Kostyantynivka Alchevs'k Horlivka Krasnyi Dnipropetrovs'k Luch Yenakiieve Shakhty Donets'k Makiyivka Sumy a ok Z at Dzhankoy K arkinists'ka Mykolayiv Lubny Romny Konotop Shostka Kremenchuts'ke Vdskh. Kirovohrad Piv d Pryluky Chernihiv 35 ° RUSSIAN FEDERATION k ns 0 N S National capital Capital of Autonomous Republic of Crimea and oblast' centre City, town Airport International boundary Autonomous Republic of Crimea and oblast' boundary Road Railroad UKRAINE A Dn ist e DO VA M O LPrut c he 0 N IN M U TA O Chernivtsi et Sir R O HUNGARY R F . O EP ° M r 45 Mukacheve Vinnytsia Kamianets'-Podil's'kyi Berdychiv Zhytomyr Chornobyl' Korosten' Homyel' ° 30 i ZAKARPATS'KA OBLAST' Kolomyya a ts' NovohradVolyns'kyi P r ipy B E L A R U S Ternopil' R P Drohobych Stryi A T Khmel'nyts'kyi H SLOVAKIA IA N Kalush Ivano-Frankivs'k 50 W a i sl Lublin Brest ° 25 De s na Su la P O L A N D n Sa Dn uh .B K er e Vorskla Warsaw 58 y Index Acropolis31 Aerosvit48 Alternatyva52 Amadeus23 Amphora51 AntiqUA51 ABM-Vitadent52 Apteka #2 52 Aquapark52 Archive Pub 37 Arsenal42 Arsenal Salon 51 Arsenalska café 34 Art-1110 Art Body Coffee Club 34 Art Vernisazh 51 Atmosphera23 Austrian Airlines 48 Aventin52 Avis49 Backerei-café “Videnski bulochky”34 Beeline50 Beer Garden 37 Belarus53 Belgium53 Bel Palaссo 52 Bianco Rosso 31 Bicycle Rentals and Tours 43 Billiard Centre 52 Black Cat 37 Black Coffee 34 Black Stone House 42 Brazil53 Brewing Museum 45 British Council 10 Brudershaft23 Bulbashki52 Cabinet34 Café 1 34 Canada53 Carpatair48 Casanova23 Celentano32 Central King's Pub 38 Central Post Office 50 Central Square Hostel 20 Chaos10 Charivnyi Likhtar 34 Chopin16 Chorna Medeya 50 Chudo Tour 43 Chysto52 Citadel Inn 14 City Council 53 City Hall 42 Classic52 Coffee in Leopolis 34 Cosmopolitan38 Cukiernia34 Darwin24 Del Pesto 24 DeMandjaro24 DHL53 Diamant51 Dim Legend 32 Dnister16 D.S.52 Dublin38 Dynamo52 Dzyga10 Edem18 Elite52 Eney16 Eurochystka52 Eurohotel16 Eurohotel Restaurant 31 Europcar49 Europe24 European Business Association53 Eurosport52 Fashion Club 24 FedEx53 Fenomen40 Fest Tour 43 First Ukrainian Theatre for Children and Youth 10 Formula of beauty 52 Fortuna De Luxe 39 Frantsishka34 Free Tours of Lviv 43 Gallery40 Gallery of Ukrainain Military Uniform10 Garbuz32 Garmata24 Garry Bowman 10 Gasova Lyampa 34 George18 Georgia53 Gerdan10 Germany53 Gloria Jean's Coffees 35 Goethe-Institute10 Gothic Hall 51 Grand Hotel 14 Grand Hotel Restaurant 26 Grand Sophia 52 Halyts'ki Zolotari 51 Hertz Rent a Car 49 Hit-Café24 Hors32 Hungary53 International House 53 International Varenyky Fund32 Italian Yard 42 Italiys'kyi Dvoryk 35 Italy53 J&L Consulting 53 Johann Pinzel Museum 45 Johnny Rocker 35 Kaizen53 Kamianyi Lev 43 Karaoke Club 888 40 Kartopliana Khata 24 Kazakhstan53 Kentavr32 Khmilnyi Dim Roberta Domsa 33 King Cross Leopolis 51 Kinopalace (3D) 10 Kinopalace Kopernyk 10 Kleopatra51 К.М.К. 52 King Jan III Sobieski Palace42 Knygarnia Ye 51 Krakivska Brama 22 Kryjivka35 Kult Club 40 Kumpel23 Kupava 18, 26 Kurmanovycha20 Kvartyra 35 35 Kyivstar50 Language Fast 53 La Piazza 31 Latvia53 Lel52 Lemberg Tour 43 Leo City 20 Leopolis14 Lerroy Country Club 40 Les Kurbas Lviv Academic Theatre10 Lev Restaurant 26 Lider - Centre of Foreign Languages53 Life50 Lithuania53 Liverpool38 Livyi Bereg 26 LOT Polish Airlines 48 Lviv19 Lviv Art Gallery 10, 45 Lviv Backpackers Hostel Roxelana20 Lviv History Museum 45 Lviv Holovnyi Train Station 5 Lviv International Airport 5 Lviv Museum of Ancient Relics45 Lviv Palace of Arts 10 Lviv Regional Dall Theatre 10 Lviv Regional Diagnostic Centre52 Lviv Regional Laweyrs Bar 53 Lviv's Chocolate Workshop35 Lvivska Kopalna Kavy 35 Lviv State Palace 10 Lychakiv Cemetery 46 Maestro Restaurant-Lounge bar26 Magnets Museum-Shop 51 Magnus51 Mapa35 Maria Zankovetska National Academic Ukrainian Drama Theatre10 Market Square 42 Masoch Café 35 Maximum50 Medelin35 Medical52 Medivnia33 Metro41 Mexico53 Mi 100 52 Millenium41 Ministry of Foreign Affairs 53 MIXX Party Club & Restaurant41 Mons Pius: Beer and Meat26 MTS50 Museum of Ethnography and Art Crafts 46 Music Lab 38 Na Bambetli 36 Natalia 18 18 National Museum 46 Navigator48 Naydorozhcha Restoratsiya Halychyny26 Netherlands53 New York Street Pizza 32 Nobilis30 Nostalgia26 Nton19 Old City Hostel 20 Old Ukrainian Home 20 Opera14 Ortadent Assistance 52 Ostrava Bowling 52 Panska Charka 33 Picasso41 Pid Klepsydroyu 36 Pid Synioiu Pliashkoiu 36 Piligrim43 Pizzeria La Grotta 32 Planeta Kino IМАХ/3D) 10 Play Bar 39 Poland53 Porokhova Vezha 33 Pory roku 10 Pozytyv50 Praga23 Praga Café 36 Praga Pub 39 Prestige18 PricewaterhouseCoopers53 Prominvestbank53 Prostir Medical Centre 52 Public Pub 39 Puzata Khata 24 Rafinad People 41 Raiffeisen Bank Aval 53 Ravlyk51 Reikartz Dworzec 16 Reikartz Medievale 16 Religion History Museum 46 Restoratsiaya na Valoviy 31 Retro Hostel Shevchenko 21 Runa 53 Rus'ka Street 43 Russia53 Salo Restaurant & Museum33 Sharel52 Shekspir28 Soldatenko, Lukashyk & Partners53 Solomiya51 Solomiya Krushelnytska Opera and Ballet Theatre 10, 12 Sonata36 Soviet Home Hostel 21 Split Club Lviv 41 Stargorod Brewery 26 Stari Mury 36 Staryi Krakiv 18 Steak House 24 St. George Cathedral 43 Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal 5 Sushi Kappo-IN 32 Swiss Hotel 16 Sykhiv19 Taj-Mahal22 Taron22 Taxi 065 48 Taxi 1506 48 Teatral'ne 31, 36 The Armenian Cathedral 44 The Assumption Church 44 The Bernardine Cathedral and Monastery 44 The Chapel of the Boim Family44 The Dominican Cathedral 44 The Georgehouse hostel 21 The Latin Cathedral 45 The Lion's Castle 28 The Lion's Castle Hotel 16 The Opera House 43 The Pharmacy Museum “Pid Chornym Orlom” 46 The St. Peter and Paul Church of the Jesuit Order 45, 47 Tico52 TNT53 Trapezna28 Try Mitly 28 Tsikava Kramnychka 51 U Burgera 18 U Kima 22 Ukraina52 Ukraine International Airlines 48 Ukrains'ka Knyharnia 51 Ukreximbank53 Ukrsotsbank53 UPS53 UTEL50 Valentino32 Vezha Kramariv 30 Vezha Vedmezha 19 Victoria52 Victorian36 Vienna18 Vintage31 Vintage Boutique Hotel 18 Virmenka36 Volter18 Voskresinnya Theatre 10 Yapi32 Yapona Hata 32 Zalena Kanapa 10 Zenyk Glamour 39 Zoloto Polubotka 36 Zolotyi Vepr 36 Free downloads, videos, comments and exclusive features: all online at inyourpocket.com Europe’s online city guide Spring 2012 59