BRAZORIA COUNTY MASTER GARDENER ASSOCIATION 2016

B RAZORIA C OUNTY M ASTER
G ARDENER A SSOCIATION
2016 C ITRUS AND F RUIT
G UIDE
Variety Guide and Planting Tips
for Brazoria County Gardeners
B.E.E.S—Brazoria Environmental
Education Station
B- Be aware of the environment
E- Endeavor to protect our natural resources
E- Educate our community
S- Serve as stewards of the Earth
FOREWORD
The Brazoria County Master Gardener (BCMG) Association is affiliated
with the Texas A & M AgriLife Extension System. We are a 501C3 organization
under IRS statutes. Monies collected from this sale support educational
programming and the B.E.E.S. educational and demonstration garden, located at
the corner of Hospital Drive and CR 171.
The garden is open to the public on Tuesday and Friday mornings from 8
am-12 noon, as well as every third Saturday of the month from 9am-12 noon.
Special topic programs are offered on various dates for public attendance and are
advertised on our Facebook page, through the Horticulture Extension database
and in local newspapers. Demonstration bed themes include herbs, natives, Texas
Superstars, organics, vegetables, roses, tropicals and more.
BCMG makes genuine efforts to provide the public with information
on plants offered. Other than assuring the public that we use only licensed
nurseries, BCMG cannot assure success. The contents of this brochure utilized
multiple resources from leading agricultural universities, Texas and other state
and national organizations. Past demand & interviews of folks after each years’
February sale help us select new varieties and determine plant volume each year
at the sale.
——————————————————————————————————————
Jim Verboon—President
John Flickinger—1st Vice President
Kim Richardson—Second Vice President
Don Bushman—Treasurer
Rose Wagner—Secretary
Gil Livanec—General Chair
Barbara Bruyere—Co Chair
Ray Michalik—Co Chair
Becky Duke, Elizabeth McMahon—Editor
Elizabeth McMahon—Horticulture Extension Agent
2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Varieties
Pages
Apples
4
Apricots
4
Avocados
4-5
Berries:
Blackberries
5
Blueberries
5-6
Mulberry
6
Phalsa-Sherbert
6
Citrus:
6
Grapefruits
6
Lemons and Limes
7-8
Mandarins, Satsumas, Tangerine
8-9
Pummelos
9
Sweet Oranges
9-10
Figs
10
Jujubes
10
Kumquat, Limequat
11
Nectaplum, Nectarine
11
Peaches
11-12
Pears
12
Persimmons
12
Plum
12
Reference Section
13-18
3
APPLE
Anna—Light greenish-red, sweet, slightly tart and crisp apple. Adaptable in Houston area. Fruit stores well.
Harvest time is about late June. Cross pollinators include: 'Ein Shemer' and 'Golden Dorsett '. 200-400 chill hours
average.
Ein Shemer—Pale yellow, medium-sized apple. This tree is perfect for Gulf Coast planting. Apples ripen in June
and July and can be kept for 2 weeks when refrigerated. Self-pollinating, however, pollinates well with ‘Anna’ &
‘Golden Dorsett’ apples. 100-450 chill hours average.
Fuji—Japan parentage. Orange-reddish apple. Crisp, sweet flavor. Fire blight susceptible. Ripens from late August
through October. 200-600 chill hours average.
Golden Dorsett—Originated from the Bahamas. Golden with red blush. The firm, crisp flesh is very sweet and tart
at the same time. Fruit are slightly smaller than ‘Anna’ and resembles ‘Golden Delicious’ This makes it a superb
choice when making pies, desserts and sauces. Well known for holding its flavor during any baking or cooking
process. Ripens from the mid-June to mid-July. Pollinators include ‘Anna’ or ‘Ein Shemer’. 100-350 chill hours
average.
APRICOT
Apricots are stone fruit. They are so named because of the stony pit inside the fruit. It is a close relative to
peaches and plums. The fruit is smaller than peaches, and is smooth skinned with fine hairs. It can be eaten fresh,
dried, cooked, canned or made into jelly. Apricot trees are small and spreading trees, up to 25-30 feet in height and
width. Fruiting may be inconsistent and apricots are more susceptible to disease problems than peaches or
nectarines. The self-pollinated flowers can be white in full bloom.
Gold Kist—Freestone, very good quality. Height at maturity can reach 25 feet. Early season, with a May-June
harvest. Self-pollinating. 300 chill hours average.
Katy Apricot—Freestone with large and flavorful fruit. Has white fragrant flowers. Height at maturity can reach
25 feet. Pruning and thinning are encouraged to get good production and large fruit. Early harvest, around late May
to early June. Self-pollinating. 250-400 chill hours average.
AVOCADO
Avocados need special care for their first year. It’s best to plant them in a raised bed to prevent their roots
from staying too wet. For the first Texas summer months, cover with a shade cloth to decrease sunburn on the
trunk.
There are three major groups: Guatemalan, Mexican and West Indian. Mature Mexican avocado trees can
withstand cold temperatures down to 20˚F. Most folks tent cover their avocados and place a heat source under the
canopy when a heavy freeze is predicted.
Cold hardy avocados produce thousands of blooms beginning in mid-February. Late frosts will cause
bloom drop. Covering avocados will prevent frost from reaching the blooms. Each successive year produces more
fruit as the tree grows. A ‘Joey’ avocado has produced over 100 fruits in its 6th year in Brazoria County.
Day—Guatemalan x West Indies hybrid avocado. An elongated pear shaped fruit with smooth, green skin. Fruit
will ripen from July-September. Type A.
Don Juan—Produces good sized fruit with a speckled green skin. The flesh is of exceptional quality. After years
of maturity, it may reach 23 feet tall. It is cold hardy to mid-teens.
4
AVOCADO—Continued
Joey—Discovered by Joey Ricers in Uvalde, Texas. ‘Joey’ is a medium sized avocado weighing approximately 610 ounces with a thin purplish-black skin and is egg shaped. Rich, creamy, and smooth tasting. It is also known to
be a heavy bearer. Cold hardy avocado tree. Mature trees have withstood temperatures as low as 15-18˚F.
Mexicola Grande—Turns a deep purplish black at maturity. The flesh has a rich creamy texture. Its flavor is rich,
nutty, and smooth. A consistent large bearer. Medium size and weighs an average of 4-6 ounces. Ripens from
August to October. Hardy to mid-20’s.
Pancho (Poncho)—Mexican variety. Deep green skin. Rich, creamy texture. Cold hardy to 15˚F for short periods
without heavy damage.
BERRIES—BLACKBERRY
Blackberries botanically are not true berries. Technically they are aggregate fruits. Blackberries have
canes that are biennial-they grow the first year, and the next year in the spring the canes flower, produce fruit, then
die. Blackberries typically peak during June in the South. Blackberries are low maintenance. No substantial
common diseases or insect pests have been observed. A common problem is bird damage.
Kiowa—Released in 1996 by Univ. of Arkansas. Erect canes. Among the largest and productive in coastal Texas.
11-13 grams/berry, silver dollar size. Thorny, however, makes some of the finest jelly, jams, and pies. Susceptible
to rosette disease, resistant to rust and anthracnose. Ripening begins in June and continues for 6 weeks. Brazoria
County Master Gardeners report a consistent average of 6 pounds/week on 6 plants during the first year. 200 chill
hours average.
Natchez—Released in 2007 by Univ. of Arkansas. A Texas Superstar plant. Erect, thornless, and tends to multiply.
8-9 grams/berry. High fruit quality, consistently high yields, large fruit size, and excellent post harvest fruithandling. Pie tasting is special. Ripening begins in early to mid-June for 6 weeks. 500 chill hours average.
BERRIES—BLUEBERRY
The Brazoria County Master Gardeners have been growing “blues” at the B.E.E.S. Demonstration garden
for several years. Blueberries are one of the few fruits native to North America. Only highbush and rabbit eye type
blueberries are recommended for this area. Southern highbush blueberries are the earliest blueberries to ripen in
North America. Berry yields of 2-5 pounds per plant can occur by the third or forth year, provided pollination is
good. Yields increase up to 7-8 years of age.
Blueberries should be spaced at least 20 feet from any building. Space plants 8-10 feet between each
other. Soil pH needs to be 4.0 to 5.5, very acidic. Soil can be acidified by thoroughly mixing a small amount of
granulated sulfur into the soil before planting and/or planting with sphagnum peat moss. Folks report good results
with only peat moss but one needs to completely water and completely drain if planted in large containers. Azalea
fertilizer can be used to maintain soil acidity. Blueberries need pollinators, so two plants are recommended. 150300 chill hours average.
Emerald—Southern highbush. Released in 1999 from Univ. of Florida. High yield crops and large berries.
Spreading growth habit. Yield/plant is 5-10 pounds when mature. Early bloomer. ‘Misty’ is a good pollinator. 250
chill hours average.
Misty—University of Florida released in 1989. Southern highbush, fruit ripens in May, yields are high, fruit size is
medium-large, fruit quality is very good, berries are firm, and is a vigorous grower. May have too heavy of a crop.
Fruit ripens in May. Self-pollinating, but sets better crop with a different pollinator. Often used to pollinate other
blues. 200-300 chill hours average.
Sunshine Blue—Abundant crops with large berries Considered a semi-dwarf, maximum height around 3 feet. A
vigorous producer. 150 chill hours average.
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BERRIES—MULBERRY
Morus Nigra (Dwarf)—A “black” mulberry. Fruit is dark purple, almost black, when ripe. Berries are .8-1½
inches long, a compound cluster of several berries. Requires full sun. Can be grown in pots. Self-pollinating.
BERRIES—PHALSA-SHERBERT
Sherbet Berry—Also known as ‘Phalsa’ or ‘Falsa’ berry. Native to Asia. Drought tolerant. Dwarf plant. Round
berries that change green to red to deep purple upon maturity. Berries ripen unevenly. Pleasant sweet/sour,
astringent, grape sherbet-like flavor. Many folks describe the taste like a combination of grape and blueberry. Short
shelf life for berries. Plant in well drained area. Prune to height of 3¼ feet to encourage fruiting. Will tolerate light
frosts, however, cover for heavier frosts. Ripens August through September.
CITRUS
Citrus are productive fruit trees for the homeowner, especially in Brazoria County. The fruit begins to
mature in October. Normally one can pick and eat into February each year. Citrus stores well on the tree, and is
easy picking through February. Any residual fruit that you have not given away can be made into glazes and
delicious marmalades. One concern for home gardeners is the survival of trees after “hard freezes”. Our working
definition of a “hard freeze” is freezing temperatures lasting at least 3 continuous days. Brazoria County has had
“hard freezes” in 1989 and 2010. During 2010, temperatures of 19º-32º for 42 continuous hours were reported by a
Master Gardener in the northern part of the county with no tree death. Tree age ranged from 4-10 years. Dieback
(dead branches) was certainly noted and varied with the age of the tree.
There are 4 major groups of citrus: grapefruit, lemon, lime and oranges. Oranges are subdivided into
sweet oranges (C. sinesis) and the mandarins/satsumas/tangerines (C. reticulata). Over the past years, thousands of
varieties have been developed. Gardeners can choose from these multitude of citrus, however, most folks in this
area use Trifoliata as the rootstock of choice. Trifoliata is much more cold tolerant than citrus coming from the
Texas valley where they use ‘Sour Orange’ for rootstock. Miniature or dwarf citrus is achieved by grafting onto a
different rootstock called ‘Flying Dragon’, a cousin to Trifoliata. All citrus require full sun.
Some citrus tree seeds can grow the same fruit you currently enjoy, however, you will wait 6-7 years to
eat your first fruit. Most choose to get a grafted tree and start enjoying fruit the next year after planting.
CITRUS—GRAPEFRUIT
Grapefruit was originally named the “forbidden fruit” of Barbados. They were developed from a cross of
the pummelo (Citrus maxima) with a sweet orange (Citrus sinesis). These evergreen trees may achieve 10-12 feet
tall in about 10 years with our temperatures and soil conditions. Space 12 feet apart from other trees and the house.
Excess fruit (not given to your neighbors) makes for top notch glazes.
Oroblanco—UCR (Oro Blanco)—Patented by U.C. Riverside, also called ‘Sweetie’. Cross of pummelo and
white grapefruit. One of the sweetest of all grapefruits with white flesh. Plants at 12 years of age are 12-14 feet tall.
Off the tree eating is a pleasant experience.
Rio Red—Derived from ‘Ruby Red’ which started the Texas industry. Discovered as a chance mutation in the
valley in 1929 and was the first grapefruit to receive a patent trademark. ‘Rio Red’ is marketed as ‘Rio Star’. ‘Rio
Red’ has a smooth, thin yellow rind blushed with red once mature. Flesh is deep red and juicy with few seeds.
Ripens mid to late November. Holds well on the tree through February.
Ruby Red Dwarf—The dwarf variety has decreased the space needed from the original, which grows 15 feet. This
dwarf variety is grafted onto ‘Flying Dragon’ root stock.
6
CITRUS—LEMON
Eureka Frost—Bred by geneticist and breeder M.B. Frost at U.C. Riverside. Commercial lemon one purchases at
the stores. True lemon. Nearly thornless. Seed content is variable, however, usually contain few to none. The flesh
is pale greenish-yellow and is very acidic. ‘Eureka’ trees grow vigorously with a spreading and open form. The
fruits are borne on the outside of the canopy and are frequently in clusters. The new growth and flowers are tinged
with purple. May produce a crop throughout the year, however, mainly in late winter into spring. Not as cold
tolerant as other lemons.
Improved Meyer—Not a true lemon. Scientists believe the ‘Meyer’ lemon is a cross between a lemon and an
orange. Frank Meyer, a plant explorer for the USDA, found them growing near Peking and introduced them to the
U.S. in 1908. Called “improved” because of it’s resistance to Citrus Tristeza virus. Grows 8-10 feet tall. Absolutely
tasty in a homemade lemon pie. This yellow lemon matures in October with a tart taste progressing to a rich golden
color with an orange like sweetness come January. May set fruit throughout the year.
Improved Meyer + Persian, Double Graft (2 in 1)—This double grafted tree offers the ever popular ‘Improved
Meyer’ lemon grafted onto the same tree with a ‘Persian’ lime, which is a sweet tasting lime. A sort of double
whammy combo of lemon and a lime. See separate descriptions in this brochure.
Improved Meyer Dwarf—’Improved Meyer’ grafted onto ‘Flying Dragon’ root stock. See separate description in
this brochure.
Lisbon (Seedless)—Commercial lemon one purchases at the stores. Bright yellow, smooth thin skin. Considered
seedless. Medium sized, vigorous, dense growing tree with light green foliage and thorns. New growth is tinged
bronzy purple. Homegrown fruit is medium-large in size. Very juicy and highly acidic. Slightly more juicy vs.
‘Eureka’. Ripens in October. A bit more cold tolerant than ‘Eureka’.
New Zealand Lemonade—’Lemonade’ is reported to be a sweet lemon hybrid of unknown parentage with a very
pleasant taste. Sweetness similar to ‘Ujukitsu’. The fruit is small-medium and not very seedy. The trees are semidwarfed (on Carrizo rootstock) and quite productive. Matures with a deep green skin. Flesh is yellow in color and
contains low seed count.
Ujukitsu—A 1950’s sweet lemon developed by Tanaka from Japan. A hybrid between orange and lemon. Often
called the “Lemonade on the Tree”. One can pull it off the tree, juice it, and it tastes like the best lemonade ever
made. When mature, this yellow skinned jewel averages ½ pound. A pitcher of fresh “lemonade” is no problem.
Variegated Pink (Eureka)—Green & yellow striped variegated skin, pink flesh with clear juice and wonderful
lemon flavor. Has few seeds and a nice tartness. Leaves are also variegated to make a beautiful display outdoors.
Grows 12-16 feet . Containers should be at least 24 inches if used as a patio plant. Well suited for desserts given
their strong flavor and a magnificent lemonade. Self-pollinating.
CITRUS—LIME
There are 2 major acid, or sour limes in world trade, Mexican and ‘Persian’ (Tahiti). The one best known
and most widely cultivated is the Mexican or ‘Key Lime’, Citrus aurantifolia. There is now a thornless lime
available. Size of fruit can vary from large walnut size to the size of lemons. Limes can be very cold sensitive.
Key Lime (Mexican)—The Mexican lime blooms/fruits multiple times during the year which provides almost
year round fresh fruit. More sensitive to cold than the lemon, and can be grown only in protected locations. Most
homeowners prefer to pot in a large container which can be brought inside during freeze warnings.
Key Lime (Mexican) (Thornless)—Compact enough even for urban balconies and limited-space gardens, ‘Key
Lime’ will begin bearing small, juicy, thick-skinned fruit at an early age. Mature fruit is small, green to yellow
green. Ripens from July-December.
7
CITRUS—LIME—Continued
Key Lime (Mexican) (Thornless) Dwarf—Grafted onto a rootstock called ‘Flying Dragon’. This dwarf variety is
popular for container gardening for people who have limited space. Refer to ‘Key Lime’ description in brochure.
Persian (Tahiti)—The large, green, seedless limes found in your supermarket are the ‘Persian’ (Tahiti) lime
(Citrus latifolia). A hybrid developed in the early 20th century. The fruit is larger than the ‘Key Lime’, more
resistant to disease and pests, and has a thicker rind. Commercially they are picked slightly immature, while they
are still green in color (they turn yellow when fully ripe, and might be confused with lemons). The nearly thornless
trees grow vigorously to a medium-large size with a spreading form and have white blossoms. ‘Persian’ lime trees
are more cold-hardy than Mexican lime trees.
CITRUS—MANDARIN and SATSUMA
Mandarin is a group name for a class of oranges with thin, loose peel, which have been dubbed "Zip Skin”
oranges. The name "tangerine" could be applied as an alternate name to the whole group, but, in the trade, it is
usually confined to the types with red/orange skin. Some mandarins and satsumas may bear heavier one year, and
lighter the next. To reduce alternate bearing, thin fruits during heavily bearing years by removing some of the fruits
while they are still small. Satsuma and tangerines tend to “plug” when pulled from the tree. A piece of the peel
tears loose from the fruit and remains attached to the stem. One should use a pair of clippers when harvesting any
of the satsumas, mandarins or tangerines.
Encore Mandarin—’Encore’ is a late-ripening variety originating from a cross between ‘King Tangor’ and
‘Willowleaf’ mandarin made by H.B. Frost and was introduced in 1965. ‘Encore’ tends to be alternate bearing.
Excellent flavor, desirable as home garden variety A small citrus variety, one of the latest ripening mandarins.
They grow in groups of 2 or 3, rather than large clusters. They have a thin, smooth rind that’s easy to peel, with a
yellow/orange color that is deeper at the blossom end. They can be held on the tree as late as September.
Honey Mandarin—‘Honey’ is a hybrid of the ‘King’ mandarin with the ‘Willow Leaf’ mandarin. Light yellowish
-orange, flavor is rich and sweet. Tree is vigorous and tends strongly to be alternate bearing. ‘Matures early.
Brown Select Satsuma—Fruit is yellow/orange in skin color when mature. Trees are very productive and have an
open spread branching pattern. Medium-large tree. Harvest from mid-October into early November. Ripens 1 to 2
weeks before ‘Owari’ (early to mid-October). Fruit of ‘Brown Select’ is often ready to eat when rind is changing
color. Fruit holds well on the tree until end of December.
Brown Select Satsuma Dwarf—Grafted onto a rootstock called ‘Flying Dragon’. This dwarf variety is popular for
container gardening for people who have limited space. Refer to ’Brown Select’
description in brochure.
Dobashi Beni Satsuma—Reported as a sport on ‘Owari’ by K Dobashi in 1940. Distinctive because of its deep
orange/red color. Slightly larger than ‘Owari’. Fruit of good quality. Tree of medium vigor. Ripens in late
November or December.
Owari Satsuma—Medium sized, bright orange fruit, often with a slightly bumpy rind. Fruit has an extremely
sweet, sprightly flavor and is seedless. Very easy to peel and breaks off into segments. Ripens mid to late October
and is often ready to eat when rind is still green. Fruit holds well on the tree until late December, early January.
The primary satsuma cultivar commercially grown worldwide. Typically grows to 8 feet.
Silverhill Satsuma—’Owari’ cross by W.T. Swingle in 1908. The ‘Silverhill’ satsuma produces fruit of the same
size and appearance as that of the ‘Owari’ variety. Juice is abundant; sugars high and acid low (hence very sweet);
quality excellent; stores well. The Tree is very vigorous for a satsuma and more upright than most others.
Productive. The fruit ripens possibly a few days earlier, but on the other hand, keeps rather better than the ‘Owari’.
Season of maturity is early November. Remarkedly cold-resistant to 16˚F recorded at Silverhill, AL.
8
CITRUS—MANDARIN and SATSUMA—Continued
Algerian Tangerine—The tree reportedly appeared in 1902 in the garden of an orphanage in Misserghin, Algeria.
Father Clement Rodier came across the chance hybrid among a group of other mandarin seedlings. The fruit is a
medium size for mandarins, deeply orange, sometimes reddish in color and has a fresh, clean smell. The skin is
loose and thin.
Dancy Tangerine—Originally grown from the seed of ‘Moragne’ tangerine around 1867. Easily peeled, tasty red/
orange fruit. Alternate bearing, nearly thornless, upright growth habitat. Fruit matures around December-January.
CITRUS—PUMMELO
Pummelo (pomelo) is the largest of all citrus and parent of grapefruits. Native of Asia. Pummelos are
similar to grapefruits, however, much larger and sweeter.
Nam Roi—Popular seedless variety from Vietnam. Can grow as high as 16 feet. White flesh, very juicy. A 7 inch
fruit can fill an 8 ounce glass very fast.
Valentine—Released by U.C. Davis in 2009. Hybrid fruit. If cut and held upside down, resembles a heart. Large
size, low acidity, with red pulp. Easier to peel. Fruit matures near Valentine’s day.
CITRUS—SWEET ORANGE
Sweet orange cultivars can be categorized into 4 distinct groups: round oranges, navel oranges, blood
oranges, and acidless oranges (small group). Red pigmentation varies with climate and can be intense when blood
oranges are grown in regions with large diurnal fluctuations in temperature.
Cara Cara—Discovered at the Hacienda de Cara Cara in Venezuela in 1976 and did not enter the U.S. market
until the late 1980’s. Red fleshed. This medium sized fruit is sweet and low acid. Flavor is more complex than
most.
Moro (Blood)—The Texas mid-coast has a good temperature variance which produces a rich “redness”. Smallmedium with a thin orange rind becoming bright red blushed at maturity. Flesh is juicy with few seeds and can
range from light orange/red early to red later in the season. Flavor is rich and distinctive at peak maturity with a
very distinctive aroma. Ripens early to mid-January. Holds well on the tree until March.
N33E—Navel orange. Also known as ‘Bond N33’. Texas selection of a mutation off of ‘Marrs’ orange. Similar to
‘Washington’ navel. May have fruit splitting. Easier to peel.
N33E Dwarf—Grafted onto a rootstock called ‘Flying Dragon’. This dwarf variety is popular for container
gardening for people who have limited space. Refer to ‘N33E’ description in brochure.
Republic of Texas—First citrus reported in Texas, at Angleton (1847). Produces a nice size orange, very sweet,
juicy, highly flavorful and slightly seedy. Grows to 15 feet x 15 feet. Survived the 2010 severe freeze when
temperatures were below freezing for 42 continuous hours down to 19˚F.
Vaniglia Sanguigno—The name means “Vanilla Blood”. Oranges are medium-sized with a pinkish-orange rind.
Flesh is pinkish-orange and juicy. Very sweet with no acidity. Ripens from fall to winter.
Tarocco —Blood orange. Sweet and juicy. Few seeds. Requires hot days and cold nights to develop color fully.
9
CITRUS—SWEET ORANGE
Washington Navel—These exceptionally delicious, seedless, easy-peeling fruits were imported into the U.S. in
1870. Flesh color is deep; texture is firm; it is moderately juicy with rich flavor. The moderately sized trees have
waxy white fragrant flowers with deep green shiny leaves. The ‘Washington’ navel orange is at its best in the late
fall-winter months, however, will hold on the tree for several months beyond maturity and stores well. The flowers
on a ‘Washington Navel’ bloom in the spring, then take 7-10 months to mature and ripen. Will not pollinate other
orange trees.
FIG
Figs are deciduous fruit trees. They can grow taller than 15 feet , and wider than 12 feet. When planting,
space them 10-20 feet from other trees. They may produce figs in 1-4 years after planting. Figs grow best in full
sun, with a western or southern sun exposure. Containerized figs have the same requirements, but must be watered
more often. Fig rust may cause trees to defoliate. Figs are heat tolerant but can have cold sensitive branches. If
branches are frozen, fig trees will re-sprout from the plant base next spring.
Chicago Hardy—Small to medium sized fig. Thought to have more cold tolerance than other figs. Small eye.
Italian Black—Reddish-brown fig with pink sweet flesh. Prolific bearer and will set a new crop after the previous
one. In Brazoria County, we tend to get two crops. Closed eye.
Magnolia—Also known as ‘Brunswick’, ‘Madonna’ and ‘Dalmatian’. Semi-hardy. Medium to large sized fruit.
Popular fig for canning. May have splitting and souring problems. Open eyed.
Blue Giant—An original Texas fig introduced by Fanick’s Nursery, San Antonio. Deep red/purple skin, amber
flesh. Large fig. Skin may crack. Sweet taste, produces all summer long and fall. Semi-closed eye.
Texas Everbearing—Also called ‘Brown Turkey’. Large sized fig. Produces a large crop of succulent brownishpurple fruit, with deep burgundy pulp. Fruit has a mild, sweet flavor. Ideal for preserves or eating fresh. The early
crop ripens in May; the main crop ripens in late June and continues to ripen into August. Moderately closed eye.
JUJUBE
Jujubees are a carefree, good tasting fruit that is often known as the Chinese Date. They have no serious
disease, insect, or nematode pests. They are a medium sized tree growing 20-25 feet tall. We think jujubes should
be considered by all gardeners in Brazoria County because of several reasons - the first, of course, is that the new
varieties taste good; second, they take little care after the first couple of years; third, they do not require any sprays
and can be grown organically; and, fourth, they do not take much water once established.
When dried, jujubes truly have a taste very much like a date. The fruit, when processed into jujube butter,
was rated better than apple butter by the people at Texas A&M, some years ago. There are many other products
made from jujubes, including whole pickled jujubes, smoked jujubes, honey or sugar jujubes and spirit jujubes.
The fresh fruit can be used in place of apples in any recipe. Just peel and remove the single seed inside to use in
your apple recipes. Use fruit that is in the yellow/green stage. 200-400 chill hours average.
Lang—This jujube was brought into the United States by USDA discoverer Frank Meyer in 1908. ’Lang’ is more
of an upright grower than ‘Li’. Fruit is 1½ inches long with a distinct pear shape. It has the sweetest apple-like
flavor when fully ripened to a mahogany red color. Fruit ripens in mid-September. Good for general purposes. ‘Li’
serves as the pollinator for ‘Lang’.
Li—Biggest fruit. 2 inch fruit turns from green to purple to mahogany. Best for fresh eating.
10
KUMQUAT
Kumquats are not citrus but belong to another genus, Fortunella, “cousins” to the citrus. Kumquats are
slow growing, evergreen shrubs, or small trees with dense branches. Kumquats originated in China and have long
been cultivated in Japan.
Changshou—This naturally small tree is very ornamental and thornless. Fruit is 1½ inches long, oval with
depressed apex. Flesh is deep orange, acidic, and contains few seeds. Big time favorite of container plants and will
do well inside the sunny window. Fragrant white flowers with extended bloom late winter to spring. Thin skin, eat
the whole thing.
LIMEQUAT
Lakeland—Hybrid between ‘Key Lime’ and kumquat. Small shrubish habitat, cold hardy and very attractive.
Edible rind. Yellow skin and yellow flesh. Fruit tastes similar to limes. Ideal for small yards. Can do well in
containers. Tree is as cold hardy as tangerines, but not as cold hardy as a kumquat. Fruit year round in mild climates. Self-pollinating.
NECTAPLUM
Spice Zee (Pat# 15535)—Hybrid between plum and nectarine, developed by Floyd Zaiger. The fruits exterior has
smooth skin. Flesh is white, very sweet, slightly acidic and with an intense flavor. Beautiful ornamental tree with
pretty spring blooms. This variety is self-pollinating. 200-300 chill hours average.
NECTARINE
Peaches are thought to be different by peaches by a single gene, the one for skin texture. Nectarines are
not peach/plum hybrids. Instead, they are peach mutations.
Sunred—Semi-free stone, medium sized, bright red nectarine. Yellow flesh is firm. Ripens early. Self-pollinating.
Requires 200-300 chill hours average.
PEACH
Peaches are the leading deciduous fruit crop in Texas. Spacing should be a minimum of 10-25 feet.
Mature height of tree is 10-20 feet. Prune peaches so that they have an open center. Remove diseased fruit to
decrease chances of further disease. Do not plant in poorly drained area, peaches hate “wet feet”. Peaches can live
up to 20 years.
August Pride—Folks have been asking for a peach that ripens later in the year, rather than spring. This one is a
large freestone yellow flesh, sweet, aromatic and richly flavored. Good for eating off the tree on a “pleasant” late
coastal July/August summer evening. Self-pollinating. Less than 300 chill hours average.
Eva’s Pride—Medium-large yellow freestone. Ripens in May. Self-pollinating. 100-200 chill hours average.
Flordaking—Older variety released in 1978 by Univ. of Florida. Some resistance to bacterial spot. Fruit is medium-large, clingstone pit with melting yellow flesh. May have split pits. Early season peach. Self-pollinating. 450
chill hours average.
La Feliciana—Developed by LSU. ‘La Feliciana’ is a late-ripening, large, sweet, freestone peach. Heavy
production and excellent flavor make this one a must for the home orchard. Supposed to have better disease
resistance, including to brown rot. Ripens in July. Self-pollinating. 400-500 chill hours average.
May Pride—Add this delicious tangy, sweet yellow semi-clingstone, red fuzzy prize to your yard collection.
Showy pink blossoms and large fruit. Very early ripening peach for our coastal area. Self-pollinating. 175-200
chill hours average.
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PEACH—Continued
Tex King—Texas A&M introduction. Large fruit with firm flesh. Clingstone. Produces good sized crop. Ripens in
May. Self-pollinating. 450 chill hours average.
Tropic Snow—White flesh. Freestone. A sweet, low acid peach. Highly rated taste. Has been very successful in
Brazoria County. A “you gotta have one” variety. Ripens in June. Self-pollinating. 150-200 chill hours average.
PEAR
Pear trees can get taller than 25 feet. Most pears are deciduous and are cold-hardy. Pear production is best
where 2 different varieties are in close proximity (same ½ acre). The skin ranges in color from green, yellow, red,
brown, pink, or a combination of these. Pear flesh is white, juicy and grainy in texture. Of all the deciduous fruit
tree species, pears are the most tolerant of wet soil conditions. However, they perform best on deep, well-drained
sites. Generally take more than 3 years to achieve full production. Asian pears have a distinct, pear-like taste,
however, they have a crisp texture, much like an apple. Many Asian pear varieties also appear apple shaped, which
causes them to be known as "apple-pears".
Acres Home—Large fruit with a red blush. Some fire blight susceptibility. Needs a pollinator. Chill hours are 300350 average.
Hosui—Excellent tasting Asian pear. Has a vigorous spreading habit, unlike other pears, which are more
columnar. Matures to around 10-15 feet in height. Susceptible to fire blight. Ripens in August. Needs a pollinator
400 chill hours average.
Shinseiki Pear—Bright yellow skin with a round shape. Good flavor, medium size. Juicy, crisp and sweet like an
apple. Easy to grow and keeps well. Heavy bearing beginning the second year. Has some resistance to fire blight.
Needs a pollinator. Ripens in July. 250–300 chill hours average.
Southern Bartlett—Exceptionally juicy. Gets somewhat taller than ‘Acres Home’. Moderately fire blight
resistant. Can use ‘Acres Home’ as a pollinator. 400 chill hours average.
PERSIMMON
A premier fruit that can be grown in the greater Houston area. Coloring is light yellow/orange to dark red/
orange in color, and vary in fruit size from ½ to 4 inches in diameter. Shape may be round, pumpkin like or acorn
shaped. This fruit is botanically defined as a berry. Though there are native persimmons, the Japanese varieties are
favorites due to their eating qualities. Persimmons need full sun and no standing water. Persimmons are deciduous.
Birds may be pests of the fruit.
Fuyu—This variety is the most popular persimmon variety in the USA. Firm, medium sized fruit. Skin is a deep
orange color when ripe. Non-astringent, meaning it can be eaten when unripe. Tomato shaped. About 2-4 seeds per
fruit. Heavy and consistent bearer, reaching heights of 20 feet tall and 15 feet wide. Fruit ripens from SeptemberOctober. Self-pollinating, however, can be used as one for other varieties.
Weeping—Has a weeping form. Astringent persimmon. Fruit ripens in October-November.
PLUM
Plums are stone fruits, like peaches. The 2010 reports indicate a “best plum crop in 10 years”. 1989 was
the nearest big producing year.
Burgundy—Reddish-purple flesh and skin. Semi-freestone. Fruit keeps well on tree. Self-pollinating. 250-350
chill hours average.
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WORKING DEFINITIONS
Sun—Continuous, direct exposure to 6 hours/day
Full Sun—Greater than 6 hours/day
Chill Hours—Annual number of hours between 45˚F & 33˚F.
Chill Hours in Brazoria County—2009 = 424, 2010 = 703, 2014/2015 = 439 (see pg. 20 for individual city
numbers). Average is 200-400.
Seedless—0 to 6 seeds per fruit
Clingstone Peach—Clingstone, Does not separate easily, but contains more pectin; therefore is the better canning peach.
Freestone Peach—Flesh separates very easily from the stone with circular cut
Deciduous—Typically used to describe trees or shrubs that lose their leaves seasonally.
Macronutrients—Substances needed for growth and other functions. Some are needed more than others.
Include: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulfur.
Micronutrients—Required in smaller qualities. Some of these maybe bound in specific pH soils. Chlorine, iron,
boron, manganese, zinc, copper, molybdenum and nickel.
Russet—Reddish-brown color (or red/gray by some folks).
Fig Eye—Open eye-open hole at bottom of fig. Bugs can crawl up open hole and spoil fruit. Semi-open eyepinprick opening at bottom of fig. Also known as semi-shut or semi-closed. Closed eye-opening closed at
bottom of fig.
Astringent—Sharp or severe in manner or style.
Diurnal—Of or during the day.
REFERENCE SECTION
FERTILIZER:
Any organic or inorganic material of natural or synthetic origin (other than liming materials) that is
supplemented to a soil to supply one or more nutrients essential for plant growth and essential for high-yield
harvests. Commercial fertilizers typically provide six macronutrients and seven micronutrients necessary to
plants. Apply around the drip line.
Macronutrients—(N) nitrogen, (P) phosphorus, (K) potassium, (Ca) calcium, (Mg) magnesium and (S) sulfur.
Micronutrients—(B) boron, (Cl) chlorine, (Cu) copper, (Fe) iron, (Mn) manganese, (Mo) molybdenum and
(Zn) zinc.
NPK—In the USA, these letters on the fertilizer label represent an analysis of the composition by weight. These
three numbers correspond to nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N-P-K) and always appear in that specific
order. The second value P is not elemental phosphorus but P2O5. The third value is not elemental
potassium but K2O. For example a 50 lb. bag of 10-10-10 will contain 10 lbs. nitrogen, 4.4 lbs. phosphorus and
8.3 lbs. of potassium.
Nitrogen—Most needed macronutrient. Plants only absorb nitrogen in two forms: nitrates and ammonium
(ammonium sulfate).
FERTILIZER RECOMMENDATIONS:
Apple—Generally fertilized with nitrogen each year, preferably ammonium sulfate. One month after planting,
apply 1 cup over a 2-foot circle. In May and June following planting, add 1 cup around the tree. Spring of second
season: 1 cup in 3 foot circle repeated in April, May and June. Year three: 2 cups, 4 times per year in March,
April, May and June. Four year or older trees are considered mature. Growth of 12 to 18 inches per year is ideal
for bearing trees. Apply one lb./inch of tree trunk diameter. An 8 inch diameter would get 4 lbs. at budbreak and
the other 4 lbs. in May. If crop is poor or nonexistent, delete May application.
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REFERENCE SECTION
FERTILIZER RECOMMENDATIONS Continued:
Avocado—Essentially the same as for other fruit trees in South Texas: ammonium sulfate (21-0-0). One half cup
per month in the first year, 1 cup per month in the second year and 2 cups per month in the third year monthly from
February to September. Thereafter, apply 2 cups per year per inch of trunk diameter, split into equal
applications in February, May, and September.
Blackberry—Requires about 1.25 pounds of ammonium sulfate per year, per plant. Rule of thumb: 1 cup=8
ounces, 2 cups=16 ounces or 1 lb. Apply fertilizer 12 inches from the plant. Apply all the fertilizer in the winter
(Jan./Feb.) or in smaller increments during the growing season: 1 application in March, June, and September.
Blueberry—Switch your horses because these guys MUST have very acid soil medium such as sphagnum moss.
Caution: Blueberries are very sensitive to over fertilization! Subsequent years, use 1 ounce of fertilizer for each
year from planting , a total of 8 ounces per plant/year. Apply early spring and late spring for best results. Always
water well after fertilizing. For organic fertilizers, blood meal and cottonseed meal work well. Avoid using fresh
manure. Aluminum sulfate sold as Azalea fertilizer at plant stores may also be used.
Citrus—“Look at the leaves, they tell you the story”… Herman Auer, Santa Fe Citrus guy for 30 + years (and a
Galveston County Master Gardener. Yellowing leaves indicate lack of fertilizer or poor drainage. Dark green, lush
leaves with burned tips indicate excessive fertilizing. Yellow leaf with green veins indicate that iron is needed
(Ironite). Fertilizing too much when the tree has a healthy appearance may cause it to produce inferior fruit. Most
citrus are nutrient hungry from the time they bloom until they have firmly set fruit. First application a balanced
8-8-8, year 1, then move to 18-5-10 type combination thereafter. Use 1 cup/first year at bloom/fruit set; thereafter 2
cups (1 lb.)/for every inch of tree diameter. One very neat guideline as to when: Valentine’s/Mother’s/Father’s day.
Fig—Old timers would shrug at fertilizing figs. Usually necessary only for potted trees or when they are grown in
sands. Excess nitrogen encourages rank growth at the expense of fruit production, often ripens improperly, if at all.
In general, fertilize fig trees if the branches grew less than a foot in the previous year. Apply a total of ½-1 pound
of nitrogen sulfate, divided into 3 or 4 applications beginning in late winter or early spring and ending in June.
Pear—First Year spread ½ cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer in a circle 12 inches from the trunk. Keep the fertilizer away
from the trunk. Fertilize young trees monthly using only ¼ cup of fertilizer through June. Feed mature trees each
spring using ½ cup for every year of age until the pear tree is 4 years old, then keep the fertilizer at the rate of 2
cups.
Persimmon—Trees do well with a minimum of fertilizing. Excess nitrogen can cause fruit drop. If mature leaves
are not deep green and shoot growth is less than a foot per year, apply a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 at
the rate of 1 pound per inch of trunk diameter. Spread the fertilizer evenly under the canopy in late winter or early
spring.
Stone Fruit—First year, 1 cup of 8-8-8 in April followed by 1 cup 21-0-0 in May & June. Second year, 2 cups of
8-8-8 in March, then 2 cups 21-0-0 April, May, and June. Mature trees take 2 cups(8-8-8)/inch diameter in
February followed with 2-6 cups of 21-0-0 in May.
PRUNING:
Not generally done with apple, avocados, citrus, figs, mulberry, olives, pear, pecans, persimmon, pomegranates or
plums. Occasional pruning for low branches where the fruit lays on ground and to remove storm damage and/or
freeze die back. Perfectly acceptable to remove branch that smacks you upside the head while mowing.
Blackberries—May develop canes of 6-10 feet each year. Tie canes on trellis or wire to get them off the ground.
Remove dead canes. In summer, tip prune first year canes to about 3-3½ feet tall. Then let grow. This helps them
develop lateral canes, which have more fruit. In late winter, shorten lateral canes some to increase berry size.
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REFERENCE SECTION
FERTILIZER RECOMMENDATIONS Continued:
Peach and Nectarine—Trees should be trained to an open center, thinking about an upside down umbrella as a
final goal. After planting your new tree, prune to a single trunk of 24–36 inches, removing all branches. Within a
few weeks after growth begins, select the strongest three to five shoots arising from the top 6 inches on the main
stem. They should be evenly spaced along the trunk. Remove all other shoots along the trunks or limbs. These few
branches will grow vigorously for about 4 weeks and then begin to harden and turn brown near the trunk. Have
branches spaced as equally as possible around the trunk at a height 18-24 inches from the ground. Post harvest,
prune 40% of all branches and any branches that grew toward the center.
ROOTSTOCK:
The importance of rootstock for long term productivity cannot be stressed enough.
Citrus—Poncirus trifoliata commonly called TF has been grown for thousands of years Trifoliata is the best for
this area as it is hardy for our cooler weather.
Citrange—Orange X sweet orange hybrid created by Dr. Swingle at the beginning of 1897. Carrizo citranges are
hybrids of the ‘Washington Navel’ orange and the Poncirus trifoliata. The later crosses were made with the
intention of producing cold tolerant scion varieties.
Flying Dragon—Dwarfing rootstock.
CAUTION to all of Texas. U.S.D.A. has issued a quarantine on all citrus in the lower Texas valley. A deadly
disease called “Greening” was discovered in early 2012. Exercise good judgment and temptation in buying
roadside citrus plants. Observe the old saying “If it seems to be a really good deal, it probably is not…”
PESTS AND CONTROL:
Who ever wrote The Scouts’ motto of “Be Prepared” had to be a gardener! Never a question of IF but WHEN.
Avocado—No real problems with pests. May have problems with salt burn and sunburn on trunk.
Apples—To control fruit tree pests, use one of the home orchard fruit spray mixes that are sold by several
companies. Always follow all label instructions when applying these or any other pesticide.
Berries—When the berries get red in color, secret messages are sent to all birds in the neighborhood to join the
berry fest. Use bird netting. Occasional a stink bug invasion. Pesticides can not control this armor plated beast. A
Master Gardener’s wife came up with using a car vacuum because the bugs were too stinky to smash. Modified the
intake to fit a ¾ inch clear plastic hose.
Citrus—Citrus leaf miner (CLM) is a problem for the home gardener. Leaves are extremely twisted with tunnel
tracks on them. Best agent is 17% Spinosad available at some local hardware stores or “farm & ranch’” stores. 1%
Spinosad is available at most retailers and nurseries. Spinosad A & D are the active ingredients to look for. Spray
your citrus when it has fresh growth in early spring to help prevent some damage. CLM will not kill mature trees
but could really hurt a new plant as photosynthesis could be compromised. Citrus also have problems with rust
mites (they turn your fruit brown, fruit still safe to eat), sooty mold (turns your leaves black, but can be rubbed
off), greasy spot (fungal disease) and others.
Fig—Figs are very hardy. But they do get fig rust. These are mottled color leaves that dry up and die, falling off
the tree. If you look at the back of the leaf, you see orange dust. Most folks do not spray because the rust does not
permanently harm the tree. Remove the diseased leaves to reduce it happening again.
Stone Fruit—Apply fungicides for scab & scale, apply post bloom, 3-6 weeks.
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REFERENCE SECTION
BED ELEVATION:
Importance second only to rootstock. Brazoria County is basically flat land endowed with gumbo soil which is
great at holding water for rice crops. Edible fruit cannot stand wet feet for long. Elevation provides for long term
productivity.
Elevation Materials:
Choice # 1: Cinder bricks, holes pointed up and filled with dirt. Will last indefinitely, unless you run over it with a
tractor. Blocks are 16 inches long, so a 40 inch square is ideal. 2 length wise & 1 sideways, repeated 3 times to
form 40 inch square. A 2 X 16 inch flat cinder on top makes for nice sitting.
PLANTING TIDBITS:
Choice # 2: Railroad cross ties, grade 1 or 2. Will last 20–30 years. For folks who live in country. City folks may
have restrictions. Railroad ties may leach creosote.
Choice # 3: Commercial landscape timbers. Chemical treatment seems to lose its pizzazz after 5+ years and
Texas termites are ready!
Bare Root Planting Tips:
Plant as soon as possible when you purchase the tree (late winter). If you are unable to do this, then heal them into
the soil until you can plant and make sure the roots do not dry out. Healing involves burying the roots in the soil
and moistening the soil in order to keep the roots alive. Trees are not perfectly upright though. You basically put
soil on top of roots. Prune roots some to start growth. Then plant like a container tree.
Container Tree Planting Tips:
Dig a hole that is wide and deep enough to accommodate the root system, at least 4inches wider than the root ball
when you remove it from the pot. Spread the roots out but try not to damage the root ball. Always make sure that
the graft junction is above the ground when finished. Do not pile mulch up onto the trunk. Use existing soil. Water
in well, and watch soil carefully. Water when soil is moist to dry. Do not water soil when wet.
CITRUS (additional):
Freeze Precaution—Keep mulch away from trunk EXCEPT when hard freeze is eminent. Pile mulch to cover the
graft line. If the tree freezes down past the graft line, it will resprout as rootstock , which is worthless as a fruiting
plant.
Site Selection—A well drained soil, high in organic matter and slightly acid to neutral is desirable. Trees planted
on heavy clay soils with poor internal drainage should be planted on a mound or row 8-12 inches higher than
ground level.
Time of Planting—The best time to plant citrus trees is in mid February after “Frost Season”. March–June, OK.
Flowering—February-March. Strolling through a citrus garden during bloom season is a feast of captivating and
encompassing aromas that everyone should experience. 90% flower drop is a normal process for citrus.
Spacing—The site that will provide the most space should be selected. Navel oranges, grapefruit and other oranges
are the most vigorous type of citrus trees. Ideally, in an orchard, citrus should be spaced 30 feet apart. (Example:
Allow at least 15 feet from any building or large tree on each side of the navel orange, grapefruit or other round
oranges). Satsumas require a 20-foot circle in diameter, while kumquats, lemons and dwarf varieties need only a 15
foot diameter circle. Homeowners need to plan!
Pollination—Citrus flowers have both male and female parts in the same flower so pollination is seldom a
problem (except for tangelos). Citrus trees produce an abundance of flowers and have a natural tendency to drop
flowers. Blossom drop of 95% is normal. Some experts state that if 5% of all blossoms mature to full fruit, the tree
could not sustain the weight.
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REFERENCE SECTION
PLANTING TID BITS Continued:
Fertilizer—Unwritten rule of thumb: Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, and Father’s Day (citrus)
CAUTION: Under U.S.D.A. guidelines, it is unlawful to bring any citrus plants into Texas from any other
state or country. Texas citrus valley region remains under quarantine. Montgomery, Harris, and Fort Bend
was added in 2014. It is illegal to bring trees in from that area, due to citrus greening.
PEACH (additional):
Rootstock Selection—Rootstock influences the growth, productivity, and longevity of a peach tree.
First Year Care—One critical factor of first year peach tree care is weed control. Most grasses and weeds rob
newly set peach trees by depleting water and nutrients from the soil and thus stunting growth.
Thinning—As a rule of thumb, fruit should be thinned within 2 weeks after bud set or when fruit is about ¼ inch.
Fruit should be thinned to 4-6 inches apart along the fruiting branches. Make a longhorn sign with your hand to
measure. The gardener will grimace at the thought of throwing away hundreds of peaches but remember do you
want hundreds of small peaches or dozens of plump, large ones.
Four Steps to Prune a Mature Peach Tree:
(1) Remove all hanger shoots, rootstock suckers, and water sprouts in the lower 3 feet of the tree.
(2) Remove all shoots above 7 feet in height. Do not remove red 18-24 inch fruiting shoots unless they are
growing in towards the center. Leave if growing out of the center. Cuts which leave limbs sideways at a 90˚
angle should be avoided.
(3) Remove the center scaffold and shoots which grow toward the inside of the tree.
(4) Remove old gray wood in the 3-7 foot production zone.
Planting—Remove from the container and snip any dead or damaged roots before planting. Make sure the root
system is fully extended when planting. Do not coil or bunch up the roots. If you should purchase and cannot plant
bare root trees immediately, heal them into the soil until you can plant or at least make sure the roots do not dry
out. Healing involves burying the roots in the soil and moistening the soil in order to keep the roots alive. Prune
roots of bare root plants before planting.
Irrigation—We tend to remember watering new fruit trees/mature trees in the spring then getting them through a
hot Texas summer. Don’t forget the fall, November/December. Fruit trees need sustaining water.
Chill Hours—Do not buy a peach tree unless you know the variety. Each variety has a known annual chill hour
requirement, winter between 33°-45°F. Each variety has to break dormancy and induce normal bloom and
vegetative growth. Texas A&M has established that Brazoria County is in the 450 chill hour or less zone. The cold
winter weather of 2014-15 should exceed 500 chill hours. Translation: buy peach trees with 450 hours or less. The
Master Gardener weather station in Angleton keeps records of chill hours. Chill hour average for 2010 was 712
hours. We had feedback of bumper crops of peach and plum varieties.
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SOIL TIPS
Figuring the Amount of Soil or Compost
Needed for a Project:
Multiply the length x width of the area = square feet
Multiply square feet by the depth factor = number of yards needed
Example: L X W = Sq. Ft x Depth factor = Cubic Yards
Depth Factors:
1 inch depth = .003125
2 inch depth = .00625
3 inch depth = .009375
6 inch depth = .01875
8 inch depth = .025
12 inch depth = .0375
SOIL TESTING OVERVIEW

What is a soil test? A process to measure the available nutrients, and measure soil pH and
organic matter.

Why would I need a soil test? Determine the exact amount and kind of fertilizer to use –
thus eliminating waste, cost, and promote environmental quality.

Where do I sample? Any given area of lawn or garden that is treated. Sample areas
separately for distinct differences in areas.

Collecting a soil sample: Use trowel to scrape away any non-decomposed plant tissue and
materials; cut core or divet 6 inches deep and place into clean container. Repeat step 8-10
times where testing. Mix all soil thoroughly, removing any roots or visible plant materials.
Air dry if soil feels wet. Place 2-3 cups into quart size re-sealable plastic bag. Label with
permanent marker.

Sending sample for analysis: Obtain Urban Homeowner Soil Sample Information form
from Brazoria Extension Office, or visit: http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/files/urbansoil.pdf.
Print form and follow specific mailing and payment instructions.
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Come see us at our
18th Annual
Spring Plant Sale
Saturday April 2, 2016
8:00 a.m.—12:00 p.m.
B.E.E.S.
Brazoria County Environmental Education Station
585 C R 443 (Hospital Drive)
Angleton, TX 77515
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Educational programs of the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service are open to all people without regard
to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, disability, genetic information or veteran status. The
Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of
Texas Cooperating. Individuals with disabilities, who require an auxiliary aid, service or accommodation
in order to participate in any Extension activity, are encouraged to contact the County Extension Office
for assistance 5 days prior to the activity.
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