manutec pty ltd - manutec.com.au

MANUTEC PTY LTD
ABN 60008030779
30 JONAL DRIVE CAVAN SA 5094
Ph.: 08-8260 2277 Fax: 08-8260 2399 Email: manutec@manutec.com.au Web: www.manutec.com.au
1
SOIL HEALTH & PLANT NUTRITION –BASICS OF SUCCESSFUL GARDENING
Shelter, water & food are the basic needs for human & animals to survive and grow healthily; similarly
plants also need water, soil and nutrients (plant food) to grow. To have a lush green and healthy garden,
a vigorous soil or growing medium is needed and hence understanding the soil in your garden helps to
provide a fertile and caring home for plants.
If your garden doesn’t look healthy and observe a few symptoms such as poor growth, yellowing, poor
flowering and fruiting, curly and small leaves, hard and cracked soils, water logging etc., all would be
result of either poor soil health or poor nutrition or combination of both.
SOIL HEALTH
A Soil is considered to be healthy when it is physically structured well, chemically balanced & biologically
active. The common problems we notice in our gardens are as a result of soils being sick either
physically, chemically or biologically.
2
COMMON PHYSICAL PROBLEMS IN GARDEN SOILS CAUSING POOR GROWTH:
Physical problems mainly arise from poor soil composition and structure, i.e. either too much sand, or too much
clay. A well balanced soil such as loamy soils are good because they contain a balanced proportion of sand, clay
and silt particles which allows better aeration, drainage and holds plenty of water and nutrients. A detailed
description of soil types and their influence is provided in Appendix -2, Page 18.
MANUTEC GYPSUM HELPS TO BREAK DOWN HARD CLAY IN TO WORKABLE SOILS


If your garden soil is too hard & clayey, you may notice
o Slippery and sticky when wet and muddy during rain
o Forms crust and cracks when dry
o Break in to large clods during digging
o Results in poor root growth and emergence of seedlings
o Poor aeration & drainage results in water logging causing root rots
Remedy:
Water logging
Well drained soil
o In order to break the clay soils to a workable condition use Manutec
(
poor
root
growth)
(better
root growth)
Gypsum product commonly available in garden outlets, that is
effective and economical.
If your Garden soil is too sandy you may notice
o Symptoms are opposite to clay soils with excessive drainage and results in dry conditions
o Loss/leaching of nutrients & water results in starvation by plants leading to poor growth.
Remedy:
o Add more organic matter or compost and or mix with loamy soils to improve composition and structure.
o Feed with slow release Fertilisers such as Manutec Blood & Bone, Slow release Tablets and Manutec slow
release granules etc. which helps to reduce the wastage of nutrients from leaching and provide constant
feeding throughout growth.
Blood &
bone/Organic/ slow
release nutrient
products reduces
leaching of nutrients
in sandy soils

Soil temperature is another factor affecting healthy growth particularly during peak winter & and peak
summers due to extremities affecting root growth and moisture levels.
Remedy: Mulch your garden beds/soils with organic mulch (such as bark/straw etc.) or covering plastic
sheets. This helps to minimise evaporation, regulates extreme temperatures & also reduces weed infestation.
3
COMMON CHEMICAL PROBLEMS IN GARDEN SOILS CAUSING POOR GROWTH:
Chemical problems in soils or potting mixes mainly arise from either “too much “or “too little “conditions.





Too much acid (acidic soils – low soil pH)
Too much lime (alkaline soils – high soil pH)
Too little nutrients (nutrient deficiency)
Too much nutrients (nutrient toxicity)
Too much salt content (excessive sodium)
A healthy soil should have a balance of acidity and alkalinity resulting in neutral pH condition which facilitates
optimal uptake of available nutrients from soil.
SOIL ACIDITY & ALKALINITY AND IMPORTANCE OF SOIL PH
When we touch an acid or caustic soda by hands we feel a burning or irritation experience, similarly plant roots
are also affected by excessive acidity (low pH) and alkalinity (high pH).
What is soil pH?
In simple terms, Soil pH is a measure of acidity or alkalinity in soils or potting mixes. A pH value 7 is neutral. Most
plants grow best in soils that are slightly acidic to neutral (pH 6 to 7), some plants however often referred to as
acid loving plants prefer and grow best under more acidic conditions (pH 4.5 to 6). A very few garden plants
prefer slightly alkaline conditions.
0
1
2
3
Acidic
4
5
6
7
Neutral
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
Alkaline
Why Test Your Soil pH?
Knowing the pH of soil or growing media is crucial to understand a large number of garden problems. The
availability of nutrients to plants varies as pH changes. All plants have a pH preference (refer to Appendix -3,
page 19/20 for detailed listing of Plant by Plant pH preference). Most plants prefer and grow well at a pH range of
6-7 (i.e. slightly acid to neutral). However there are exceptions like acid loving plants such as Azalea, Camellia,
Gardenia, Blue Hydrangeas etc. which prefer an acid soil pH of 5 - 6, whereas pink Hydrangeas prefer slightly
alkaline pH to produce pink petals. Hence it is important to test and know the pH of your soil or potting media so
that you determine its exact condition and assist you to alter and adjust pH as required.
Soil pH and Nutrient availability: Soil pH has direct influence on availability and absorption of nutrients by
plants. Most nutrients are easily available at a pH range of 6 -7. Some micronutrients such as Iron, Zinc &
Manganese are trapped in the soil and cannot be taken up by the plant under alkaline conditions, which we
commonly see as yellowing symptoms in most vegetables and Fruit and Citrus trees. On the other hand, under
high acidic conditions, nutrients like Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Magnesium and Calcium become less
available resulting in deficiency symptoms. Regular maintenance and application of corrective nutrient elements
is necessary to overcome deficiencies under these conditions. Detailed illustration on influence of pH on nutrient
availability is provided in Appendix – 1, page 17.
When to Test Your Soil?
Soils, potting mixes and growing media should be tested periodically throughout the growing season and in
particular while planting and preparing soils/beds during early spring and autumn. And, if you feel or notice that
your plants are not growing well, a soil pH test may help.
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How to test Soil pH?
Soil pH can easily be tested by using Manutec Soil pH Test Kit.
It is easy, economical and instant. This kit is used to test soils, compost,
potting mixes. It is a widely used and recommended kit for both
home Gardeners and professional horticulturists.
Each kit contains:

Instruction Booklet

pH Colour Chart

Mixing Plate &Mixing Stick

pH Indicator Liquid Dye in a Squeeze bottle

Barium Sulphate (white powder) in a puffer bottle
The kit is very easy to use, first a small sample of air dried soil is collected from the area to be tested, we
recommend a sample about a teaspoon (the size of a 10c piece) Any larger qty, too much dye will be
wasted to mix and test. If the soil is too wet, better to air dry overnight on a sheet of paper.
1
Take a small soil sample on the white mixing
plate and add a few drops of indicator dye.
3. Sprinkle white Barium powder from the puffer
bottle on to the top of moist soil paste.
2. Then mix the indicator liquid with the soil
sample to make a thick paste.
4. The white barium powder changes to a
different colour, compare the new colour
against closest colour on the colour chart to
obtain a pH reading
The Soil pH Test Kit is very safe to use. Normal precautions should be taken to store the kit in a dry place
away from Children and Pets. After use keep them closed properly and away from exposure to direct sunlight.
5
How to adjust Your Soil pH to required level
Lowering pH: If your pH reading is higher than 7 on colour chart, it means your soil is alkaline. To lower
the soil pH, you need to add Sulphur to the soil. Manutec Sulphur is the most common and economical
product available to lower the pH of soils.
Lowering pH of soils:
U
To lower the pH by one unit (for example from 7.5 to 6.5) uses
the following number of grams per square meter of area
depending on soil type.
Sandy soils - 25 g/m2 : Loamy soils –50-70 g/m2:
Clay soils - 100 g/ m2
These amounts will lower the pH of the top 10 cm soil by about 1 unit. To lower the pH value by 2 units or more,
multiply the above recommendation by number of units to reduce. The soils that are naturally alkaline with large
amounts of lime stones will have a very high pH value and it will be difficult to lower the pH. Soil pH needs regular
monitoring and testing as soils will revert back to their natural pH level.
Lowering pH of Bulk mixes and in Pots:
Bulk mixes: To lower the pH of bulk potting mixes by one unit, add approx. 400 g Manutec Sulphur per
cubic volume of mix i.e. 0.4 grams Sulphur per litre of mix.
In pots: To lower the pH of mix in pots quickly, a solution containing 2 grams of
Manutec Iron Sulphate per litre of water can be used. Apply about 200ml per litre of
mix and then immediately within 2-3 minutes water heavily to drain excess salt. Wait
for a week, check the pH and if needed repeat the same again. Sulphur can also be
used for established plants in pots, mix 0.4g per litre of soil and mix with top soil or potting mix and water well.
Ensure sulphur doesn’t sit on any foliage. However if the pH of potting mix is very high (above 9 or 10) it is
better to re-pot plants with fresh mix, rather than using excess acidifying material to reduce the pH.
Imp. Note: Manutec Sulphur is not soluble in water. When applied to soil, it is gradually converted to
acid and reduces the pH. Hence the actual effect of pH change can be observed after approx. 4-6 weeks.
So it is important to test the pH after this period and repeat the application if necessary.
Increasing soil pH: If your pH reading is lower than 6 on the colour chart, it means your soil is very
acidic. To increase the pH, you need to add Manutec Garden Lime or Manutec Dolomite. However
caution to be taken not to apply if you are growing acid loving plants such as azalea, camellia.
Note: The pH of the mix in pots should
be checked regularly every few months
because most fertilisers produce acidity
over a period of time
Garden lime 3kg
8kg
Garden Lime 8kg
Garden Lime 15g
Dolomite
6
To raise the pH of soils
To increase the pH by one unit (for example from 5.5 to 6.5), use the following number of grams of Manutec Lime
per square meter area depending on soil type.
Sandy soils - 100 g/m2: Loamy soils – 200 g/m2: Clay soils - 300 to 400 g/ m2
These amounts will raise the pH of the top 10cm of soil by about one unit. To increase the pH value by 2 units or more, multiply the
above recommendation by no. of units to increase. The soils that are naturally acidic needs constant monitoring & checking.
To raise the pH of mix in pots:
U
Raise the pH of mix with a suspension of Lime (Hydrated/Builders Lime) by dissolving 5g (heaped
teaspoon) in a litre of water. Pour the suspension onto the mix in the pot. Use 200ml for each litre of the
mix. As a guide a 130 mm pot contain 1 litre of potting mix. If the pH is too acidic (below 4.0) it is better
to do re-potting with fresh mix.
Note: Before you adjust or alter pH of soils/potting mixes, check the pH requirement or preference for
the plants you are growing so that you can change the pH accordingly. Refer to Appendix-3 at the end of
this guide for plant specific pH preferences.
UNDERSTANDING PLANT NUTRIENTS AND FERTILISERS
What are Plant Nutrients?
Plants need balanced amounts of at least 16 essential nutrients. Of these, three nutrients – Carbon (C),
Hydrogen (H), and Oxygen (O) are naturally available in adequate quantities. The other 13 elements are
not naturally found enough in soil or water and need to be supplemented through external sources (as
fertilisers). Depending on the relative quantities needed these 13 nutrients are classified as Macro
(Major) and Micro (Trace) elements.
Major nutrients include: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) and
Trace Elements are; Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), Sulphur (S), Iron (Fe), Manganese (Mn), Zinc (Zn),
Copper (Cu) Boron (B) and Molybdenum (Mo).
Role of major nutrients in choosing a right Fertiliser
Most Fertiliser products have been formulated around these basic 13 elements and particularly altered
to a specific NPK content to suit the needs of each plant or plant groups. NPK is a ratio of the three core
elements required for plant growth.
N – Nitrogen for growth of foliage or green growth.
P – Phosphorous for root development & plant’s energy to uptake nutrients & food
K – Potassium for flowering, fruiting and also improves pest & disease resistance
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The NPK numbers you see on the back of a fertiliser package on analysis represents the precent of each
nutrient contained in that fertiliser product. The numbers may not add up to 100 as they are expressed
as pure element basis and are presented in compound form with other trace elements making up that
product.
Based on the role of NPK plays on plant growth (as described above), it helps to select the right fertiliser
product for right purpose. For example as Nitrogen (N) promotes green growth, if you are fertilising
lawns or other plants with just green growth, select the product which has higher Nitrogen percentage
compared to P & K. On the contrary, if you want to promote more flowering and fruiting, select
fertilisers that contain more Potassium content. If you are not sure go for a balanced fertiliser.
However it is also important to keep in mind that you need to apply the right product at the right time,
for example in the beginning of a plant growth cycle, plants need more nitrogen to put up healthy green
growth and when it comes to flowering and fruiting time they need less nitrogen but more potassium to
increase flowering and fruiting. For example by applying a Manutec Nitrogen rich fertiliser at the time of
flowering, will result in the plant to put its energy into growing more foliage rather than to form flowers
and fruits.
TYPES & FORMS OF FERTILISERS
Fertiliser is a plant food containing nutrients (either organic or inorganic), not just chemicals, so feed
your plants adequately to grow them healthily; Depending on the growing conditions, choose the best
form and type of fertiliser that suits your application method/convenience. Some information below will
help you understand the type and forms of fertilisers (with Manutec products as examples) that are
commonly available at retail stores.
FERTILISERS BASED ON RELEASE AND SOLUBILITY

FAST RELEASE FERTILISERS
o Liquid Fertilisers
o Soluble powder Fertilisers
EXAMPLES ONLY
 Easy to dissolve & suitable for spray & soil
 Quickly available & fast response
 Suitable for quick fix of deficiencies

SLOW RELEASE FERTILISERS
o Tablet & Spike Fertilisers
o Controlled Release Fertilisers
EXAMPLES ONLY
 Gradually releases nutrients without wastage
 Safe with no burning effect
 Easy to apply, no measuring or mixing
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FERTIISERS BASED ON SHAPE & FORM

GRANULAR Fertilisers
EXAMPLES ONLY
 Easy to dissolve & suitable for spray
 Quickly available & fast response
 Suitable for quick fix of deficiencies


EXAMPLES ONLY
 Easy to dissolve & suitable for spray
 Quickly available & fast response
 Suitable for quick fix of deficiencies

LIQUID Fertilisers
SOLUBLE POWDER Fertilisers
TABLET & SPIKE shaped Fertilisers
EXAMPLES ONLY
EXAMPLES ONLY
 Easy to use & suitable for spray
 Quickly available & fast response
 Suitable for quick fix of deficiencies
 Gradually releases nutrients without wastage
 Safe with no burning effect
 Easy to apply, no measuring or mixing
FERTILISERS BASED ON PRODUCT ORIGIN
o ORGANIC FERTILISERS
 Fish & seaweed Fertilisers
 Blood & Bone based Fertilisers
 Organic pellets/granules
 Manures & composts
o INORGANIC FERTILISERS
 NPK compound Fertilisers
 Soluble Powder Fertilisers
 Concentrated Liquid Fertilisers
 Trace Element products
 Tablets & Spikes
EXAMPLES ONLY
EXAMPLES ONLY
 Supply slow release organic nutrients
 Adds organic content to soils & improve soil
condition
 Safe to use on all plants including seedlings
 Quickly available & fast response
 Widely used and easily to apply
 Suitable for quick fix of deficiencies
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FERTILISERS BASED ON PLANT SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS
These products are formulated based on NPK requirements of specific types/groups of plants and
these are easy to select from shelves for specific plants you are growing in the gardens. If you are
not sure, use the general purpose garden Fertiliser such as Garden Complete.
FERTILISERS FOR ROSES
EXAMPLES ONLY
FERTILISERS FOR LAWNS
EXAMPLES ONLY
FERTILISERS FOR GARDENS & VEGGIES
EXAMPLES ONLY
FERTILISERS FOR FRUITS & CITRUS
EXAMPLES ONLY
FERTILISERS FOR AZALEA & CAMELLIAS
EXAMPLES ONLY
FERTILISERS FOR TOMATOES
EXAMPLES ONLY
EXAMPLE ONLY
FERTILISERS FOR ORCHIDS
EXAMPLES ONLY
FERTILISERS FOR HYDRANGEAS
EXAMPLES ONLY
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FERTILISERS WITH HIGH POTASSIUM
TO BOOST FLOWERS
EXAMPLES ONLY
FERTILISERS WITH HIGH NITROGEN
TO BOOST GREEN GROWTH
EXAMPLES ONLY
EXAMPLES ONLY
EXAMPLES ONLY
FERTILISERS TO AFRICAN VIOLETS
FERTILISERS FOR HYDROPONICS
FERTILISERS TO SUPPLY SPECIFIC NUTRIENTS & TRACE ELEMENTS
In normal healthy soil conditions, trace elements supplied through regular application (as
listed in above examples) should be enough. However in some problem conditions such as
alkaline, acidic, sandy soils, organic soils become deficient in specific elements, in such cases
application of individual trace elements are recommended to supplement deficient nutrient.
For examples, in alkaline soils, normally experience deficiency of Zinc, Iron, and Manganese.
Similarly organic and sandy soils commonly become deficient in Potash and Trace elements.
EXAMPLES ONLY
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UNDERSTANDING & IDENTIFYING PLANT NUTRIENT DEFICIENCY SYMPTOMS
When plants fail to thrive and grow well, despite adequate soil preparation, watering and
mulching, it may be a sign of nutrient deficiency.


Fruits and vegetables are particularly vulnerable and also plants growing in very acid or
alkaline soils.
Symptoms such as general yellowing, stunted growth, poor flowering etc. are common
to many nutrient deficiencies. But identifying a specific deficiency depends on pattern
and location of these symptoms on plants. This quick guide & depictive examples below
will provide to you information on specific nutrient symptoms to determine the actual
nutrient or combinations of nutrients which may be causing the deficiencies.
The garden soils and Potting mixes which are not regularly fertilised tend to suffer from
nutrient deficiencies. Plants also suffer deficiencies where growing conditions are poor due
to acidity or alkalinity, hard clay, sandy soils or water logged conditions. These conditions
make it difficult for plants to take up plant nutrients efficiently. Sandy and organic soils are
naturally deficient in trace elements & potassium. The following section provides you
information regarding deficiency symptoms based on type and location of symptoms which
helps you to identify the specific deficient nutrients.
When Symptoms first appear in the OLDER leaves the deficiency can be due to
either Nitrogen, Magnesium, Potassium and or Phosphorus (major nutrients)
Nitrogen Deficiency:
Symptoms: general yellowing throughout the older
leaves including veins, leaf drop, premature
flowering and fruiting.
Cause: Nitrogen is a very soluble and mobile
element; it is easily leached into water ways and lost
to the atmosphere (particularly after heavy rains in
winter). This can result in deficiencies which can be
identified as yellowing of matured leaves in spring growth.
Remedy: regular application of organic manures and
fertilisers containing Nitrogen such as Manutec
Sulphate of Ammonia, and Manutec Urea, Organic
Blood & Bone, granular, tablet or soluble fertilisers
containing NPK will maintain adequate levels of
Nitrogen in soils if applied regularly.
When Nitrogen deficiency is severe
older leaves become completely
yellow including veins.
12
Magnesium Deficiency
Symptoms: Patchy yellowing between the leaf veins of older
leaves, sometimes with reddish brown tints and early leaf fall.
Magnesium deficiency is common in tomatoes, apples, grape
vines, raspberries, roses and rhododendrons. Very common
in fruits, vegetables and acid loving plants such as azalea,
camellias and rhododendrons.
Patchy yellowing b/w
veins of older leaves with
veins remaining green
Cause: Deficiencies of Magnesium are more common on
light, sandy soils. Over-use of high-Potassium fertilisers or
Potash can cause Magnesium deficiency, as plants take up
Potassium in preference to Magnesium. Deficiencies are also
common in acidic soils with low pH and in soils that are too wet
or too dry restricting root growth.
Remedy: For immediate and short term remedy, apply Manutec Epsom salts by dissolving in water
either as foliar spray or applying solution to plants surrounding roots. In the long term regular
application of Manutec Epsom Salt or Manutec Trace element mixes containing Magnesium will
maintain adequate levels of Magnesium in soils. In acid soils where Lime has to be used to raise the
pH, use Manutec Dolomite lime (instead of Garden Lime) which also supplies adequate Magnesium
to soils. However care should be taken to not use Dolomite or Lime around acid Loving plants such
as azalea and camellia.
1BPotassium Deficiency:
Symptoms: Initial symptoms of scorched
margins, spots surrounded by pale zones with
yellow or purple tints with browning at the leaf
edge and finally results in poor flowering or
fruiting.
Cause: Potassium promotes flowering, fruiting
and general hardiness and is constantly
removed from the soil and taken up by plants,
particularly in flowering and fruiting plants. Shortages are
more common on light, sandy or chalky soils and organic
soils, where Potassium is easily washed away or
naturally deficient. Deficiencies are also common in
situations where potting mixes and organic manures
are used with inadequate supply of Potash.
Remedy: Apply high Potassium fertilisers such as
Manutec Sulphate of Potash or other Manutec fertilisers
containing high Potassium content.
Potassium
deficiency in leaves
with scorched
margins & browning
leaf edges
Potassium Deficiency in
Fruits with blotchy
yellowing & discoloration
13
2BPhosphorous Deficiency
Symptoms: poor growth, blue green to purple colour
look on leaves and stems (underneath leaves).
Purple discolouration of
leaves & stems
Cause: Phosphorous is needed for healthy roots and
shoot growth. Low levels of Phosphorous in soils are
not that widespread, however Australian soils do
have a reputation for having lower than average
levels of Phosphorous. Low Phosphorous levels may
occur in areas with high rainfall and in heavy clay
soils. Phosphorus deficiency also occurs in highly
acidic soils.
Remedy:
Apply fertilisers such as Manutec
Superphosphate, Manutec Blood and Bone or fertilisers
containing adequate levels of Phosphorous.
When symptoms appear in the first seen in MIDDLE leaves (either young or
slightly older leaves), the deficiency can be due Manganese
Manganese Deficiency
Symptoms: Manganese deficiency results in
inter-veinal yellowing, pale green veins,
water soaked spots. This is common in fruit
and vegetables, particularly when grown in
alkaline soil (high pH) conditions.
Cause: Under high pH (alkaline soil conditions)
Yellowing b/w veins with veins remaining green similar to
Manganese is locked up in the soil and plants
Iron, but seen mostly in slightly matured young leaves or
cannot absorb or take up Manganese resulting
middle leaves.
in a deficiency. Sometimes high Zinc or high Copper levels also reduces the uptake of
Manganese.
Remedy: Regular checks of soil pH to determine optimum pH level. In the long term, reduce
the soil alkalinity and maintain neutral pH by regularly adding Manutec Sulphur. For an
immediate fix, use of Manutec Manganese Sulphate or Manutec Zinc & Manganese either
by foliar spray or by watering can application will help to overcome deficiencies. The
application of these products will need to be repeated regularly until the underlying
problem with the soil pH is corrected.
14
When symptoms appear first in the YOUNG leaves, the deficiencies mainly
due to Trace Elements Calcium, Sulphur, Iron, Copper, Zinc or Boron.
Calcium Deficiency:
Symptoms: necrotic leaf margins and curling of young
leaves, death of terminal buds and root tips.
Crop-specific symptoms include: In tomatoes
and peppers (capsicums) : 'Blossom end rot' – Symptoms
start as sunken, dry decaying areas at the blossom end
Blossom end rot is common in Tomatoes
of the fruit, furthest away from the stem, not all fruit on
& Capsicums due to Calcium deficiency
a truss is necessarily affected. Sometimes in addition to
calcium rapid growth from high-nitrogen fertilizers and irregular watering
(over or under) may also cause blossom end rot.
H
H
In apples: 'bitter pit' – fruit skins develop pits, brown spots appear on skin and/or in flesh
and taste of those areas is bitter. In Cabbage and Brussels: Internal browning. In Carrot ’cavity spot' – oval spots develop into craters which may be invaded by other diseases.
H
H
H
H
H
H
B
H
H
H
H
Cause: Very high acidic conditions (low pH) results in Calcium being less available and plants
are unable to take it up. Excessive application of Ammonium and Potassium fertilisers can
also results in deficiencies of Calcium.
Remedy: Application of material containing Calcium Sulphate (Manutec Gypsum) helps to
maintain Calcium levels. In acidic soils, application of Manutec Lime (either Garden Lime or
Dolomite) provides Calcium to soils. In addition supplemental application of soluble Calcium
Fertilisers such as Calcium Nitrate provides immediate effect to overcome deficiency.
Organic matter should also be added to the soil in order to improve its moisture-retaining
capacity. Balancing use of Calcium, Magnesium and Potassium based Fertilisers/materials is
important as these are absorbed by plants in preference to one another if available in
excess.
Sulphur Deficiency:
Symptoms: General yellowing of new leaves including
veins, in some plants leaves will be small with rolled
down edges.
Cause: Sulphur is important for formation of
proteins. Cabbages, onions and Brussels sprouts
are crops that really do require Sulphur (the
characteristic smell in these plants is from Sulphur).
Alkaline soils, sandy soils, high rain fall areas, and
Unlike Iron, Sulphur deficiency results in yellowing
of fresh or young leaves including veins
15
potting mixes are commonly deficient in Sulphur.
Remedy: Application of Manutec Sulphur containing fertilisers such as Super Phosphate or
Elemental Sulphur (partially in alkaline soils) helps to maintain adequate levels of Sulphur.
Use of some Sulphate based fertilisers also adds Sulphur content to soils.
Iron Deficiency:
Symptoms: symptoms start on young/fresh growth with yellowing between veins with veins
remaining sharp green
Severe Iron deficiency evident
in fresh / new growth
Initially yellowing of fresh or
young leaves b/w veins with
veins remaining green
Source:http://www.uky.edu/Ag/kpn/kpn_09/pn_090616.html
Cause: High pH (alkaline conditions) generally causes deficiencies as Iron is chemically
locked up and unavailable for plants to absorb in soils. Acid loving plants are particularly
vulnerable when growing in alkaline soils or potting composts.
Remedy: Application of Manutec Iron Chelate (EDTA) as a foliar sprays or applied to the soil
around the plant roots is recommended. This provides effective results to overcome
deficiencies. Maintaining and growing plants in optimum pH conditions helps to avoid
severe deficiencies
Zinc Deficiency:
Symptoms: Yellowing of young leaves, results in small leaves and bunching of young leaves.
Cause: Alkaline conditions (high pH), sandy soils, excessive Phosphorus content in soils.
Remedy: Regular application of Manutec Zinc Sulphate or Manutec Trace Element mixes
containing Zinc will provide immediate remedy to overcome Zinc deficiency. In the long
term, maintaining optimum pH conditions is important to avoid severe deficiencies.
16
Copper Deficiency:
Symptoms: death of tips, yellowing and distorted young growth
Cause: Alkaline conditions, sandy soils and sometimes high levels of Iron, Manganese, Zinc or
Phosphorus fertilisers without the addition of Copper can cause deficiencies.
Remedy: Regular use of Manutec Trace Element mix containing Copper or Manutec Copper
Sulphate will maintain adequate levels of Copper in soils. In addition, maintaining optimum soil pH is
important as a long term remedy to enable availability of copper.
Boron Deficiency:
Symptoms: Stunted growth and tip dieback on lettuce, brown cracks in
celery; rotten Swedes, turnips and celeriac; dimples in pears with brown
patches underneath.
Cause: Soil shortages are rare, but this nutrient can be less available to
plant roots in alkaline and high rainfall conditions.
www.umassvegetable.org
Remedy: Application of Manutec Trace Elements mix containing Boron or by applying Manutec
Boron (Sodium Borate) to the soil before sowing vegetables or as a foliar spray feed applied to fruit
trees.
Molybdenum Deficiency
Symptoms: mottling and cupping of leaves and distortion of stems.
Molybdenum deficiency is common in cauliflowers and other brassicas
(cabbage and Brussels’ sprouts) particularly when grown in acidic soil pH
conditions. “Whiptail “symptom in cauliflower is a common deficiency.
Cause: Molybdenum is required for a variety of plant growth processes,
but is needed only in very small quantities. Soil shortages of Molybdenum
are rare, but it can be less available to plant roots in acid conditions.
http://www.agriculture.alberta.ca
Remedy: Treat with Manutec Trace Elements mix that contains
Molybdenum. Liming the soil will help in the long term, as making the soil more alkaline will
help to make the Molybdenum more available
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Appendix - 1
Soil pH and Nutrient availability
Nutrients available completely
and growth will be healthy &
optimum around neutral PH
As depicted in the diagram above, Soil pH has direct influence on availability and absorption of nutrients by
plants. Most nutrients are easily available at a pH range of 6 -7. Some micronutrients such as Iron, Zinc &
Manganese are trapped in the alkaline soils and cannot be taken up by the plant, which we commonly see as
yellowing symptoms in most vegetables, fruit and citrus trees.
On the other hand, under very high acidic conditions, nutrients like Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium,
Magnesium and Calcium become less available resulting in deficiency symptoms. Regular maintenance of soil
pH and application of corrective fertiliser elements is necessary to overcome deficiencies under these
conditions.
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APPENDIX- 2
Understanding your soil types and soil structure
Knowing whether your soil type is clay, sand, silt, loam, peat or chalk will help you choose
the right plants for your garden, also to understand the impact on nutrient deficiencies and
to maintain plants in good health.
The different soil types
4B
Soils vary enormously in characteristics, but the size of the particles that make up a soil
defines its gardening characteristics:



Clay: less than 0.002mm
Silt: 0.002-0.05mm
Sand: 0.05-2mm


Stones: bigger than 2mm in size
Chalky soils also contain calcium
carbonate or lime.
The dominating proportion of a particle size gives soil its characteristics and because the
tiny clay particles have a huge surface area for a given volume of clay they dominate the
other particles:
Clay soils: Clay soils are rich in nutrients and can be very fertile if their clay clods can be
broken up into separate crumbs, making the water and nutrients held within the clay more
easily available to plant roots. Breaking up the clay into crumbs also makes the soil warmer,
more easily workable and less prone to compaction. Application of soil conditioners such as
Gypsum or Clay breaking liquids is helpful to make these soils drain better and become
more workable.
Sandy soils: Very gritty & dry, these light soils are usually low in nutrients, and lose water
very quickly being particularly free-draining. You can boost the water and nutrient holding
capacity of your soil by adding plenty of organic matter to bind the loose sand into more
fertile crumbs. Regular supplement with fertilisers will be necessary to give plants grown an
extra boost.
Silt soils: These soils are made up of fine particles that can be easily compacted by treading
and use of garden machinery. They are prone to washing away and wind erosion if left
exposed to the elements without plant cover. However, they contain more nutrients than
sandy soils and hold more water, so tend to be quite fertile. You can bind the silt particles
into more stable crumbs by the addition of organic matter.
Loams: These soils are the gardener’s best friend, being a ‘perfect’ balance of all soil particle
types. But even though they are very good soils, it is important to regularly add organic
matter, especially if you are digging or cultivating these soils every year.
Chalky/Limy soils: Chalky soils are alkaline, so will not support acid loving plants that need
acid soil conditions. Very chalky soils may contain lumps of visible chalky white stone. Such
soils cannot be acidified, and it is better to choose plants that will thrive in alkaline
conditions.
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APPENDIX -3
PLANT BY PLANT – SOIL pH PREFERENCES
pH Range for Ornamentals, trees shrubs & Household plants
20
Source: www.harvest.com
Disclaimer: These pH ranges listed here are compiled from the information available from various sources and should be taken as a guide only. As the use of this information
is outside the control of Manutec Pty Ltd, no representation or warranty, expressed or implied is made as to the effect(s) of use of this information or the results obtained.