irish sketch book

Transcription

irish sketch book

THE
IRISH SKETCH BOOK:
AND
NOTES OF A JOURNEY
FROM CORNHILL TO GRAND CAIRO,
B y W . M. T H A C K E R A y .
' • » A*
W ITH
?
•
I L L U S T R A T I O N S - £ jT
-
AUTHOR.
LONDON:
SMITH, ELDER AND CO., 15, WATERLOO PLACE.
1869 . ,
CONTENTS.
THE IRISH SKETCH BOOK
18 4 2.
OF
CHAP.
PAGE
D e d i c a t i o n ..................................................................................................................... x i
I.
A
II.
A
Sum m er D a y
in
C o u n tr y -h o u s e
D u b lin , o r T h e r e a n d T h e r e a b o u t s
in
K ild a r e — S k e tc h e s
F a m ily a n d F a rm .
IIL
F rom
C a r lo w
IV.
F rom
W a te r fo r d
V.
VI.
VII.
VIII.
to
an
I r is h
23
•
W a to R fo R d -;
to
op
. ;
V
33
44
C ork
C o r k — T h e A g r i c u l t u r a l S h o w — fA X H E R M a t h e w
X.
XI.
XII.
55
C o r k — ^ T he U r s u l i n e C o N U E K C i L
64
C o r k ............................................................ ..........................................................
72
F rom
C ork
to
B a n tr y ; w it h a n A c c o u n t o f t h e C it y
OF S k i b b e r e e n ........................................................................
IX.
i
R a i n y D a y s a t G l e n g a r i f f ..............................................
F rom
G le n g a r iff t o
K illa r n e y
K illa r n e y — S ta g -h u n tin g o n
th e
.
.
.
.
84
95
102
110
Lake
.
11 8
XIII.
T r a l e e — L i s t o w e l — T a r b e r t ................................................
128
X IV .
L i m e r i c k .............................................
K illa r n e y — T h e R a ces— M u ck ross
.
.
.
. . • • 1 3 5
CONTENTS.
vi
CHAP.
XV.
PA CK
G a l w a y — “ K il r o y ’s H o t e l
t a in m e n t s —
M ore
N ig h t ;
An
N ig h t s ’ E n t e r
E v e n in g
w it h
R a in
in
G alw ay—
A
W alk
th ere^
S e c o n d G a l w a y N i g h t ’s E n t e r t a i n m e n t
X V II.
F rom
Cap
F r e e n y ........................................................................14 8
t a in
X V I.
F ir s t
G alw ay
G alw ay t o
A n d th e
.
.
. 1 6 6
B a l l i n a h i n c h .......................................... 191
X V III.
R o u n d s t o n e P e t t y S e s s i o n s ............................................. 203
X IX .
C l i f d e n t o W e s t p o r t ............................................................. 209
XX.
XX I.
X X II.
W
e s t p o r t
T he
P a tte rn
..............................................................
a t
C r o a g h p a t r ic k
.216
................................... 222
F r o m W e s t p o r t t o B a l l i n a s l o e ....................................227
X X IIL
B a l l i n a s l o e t o D u b l i n ............................................................. 231
X X IV .
Two
XXV.
X X V I.
X X V II.
X X V III.
X X IX .
XXX.
X X X I.
X X X IL
D a y s in
W
i c k l o w
................................................. 236
C o u n t r y M e e t in g s in K il d a r e — M e a t h — D r o g h e d a .
.
.............................................................................267
D u n d a l k
281
N ew r y, A rm agh , B el fa st — F rom D u n d a l k to N e w r y .
B e lfa s t t o
T h e ^G i ^
Peg
th e
t ’s
C a u s e w a y ..................................................293
C a u s e w a y — C o l e r a in e — P o r t r u s h
iril^ »A TA tii)Y\ : . .
T e m p l e m o v i^ — I D e r r y
D u b lin
253
ar; J ^ s t :
.
.
.
303
315
;
...................................................3 1 9
332
NOTES OF A JOURNEY
FROM CORNHILL
TO GRAND CAIRO.
CHA P.
PA G E
D e d i c a t i o n .................................................................................................................. 3 4 7
P r e f a c e .........................................................................................................................349
L
II.
IIL
IV.
V igo . — T houghts at Sea— Sight of Land— Vigo— Spanish
Ground^Spanish Troops— Pasagero........................................351
Lisbon— The Belem Road— A S c h o o lLandscape— Palace of Nccessidades— Cadiz— The Rock . .
L is b o n — C a d iz .—
358
— British Lions — Travelling
Friends— Bishop No. 2— “ Good-by, Bishop” — The Meek
Lieutenant— “ Lady Mary W ood”
......................................... 3^7
The
“ Lady
M ary
W o o d .”
G ib r a lt a r .—
Mess-Room Gossip— Military Horticulture—
“ A ll’s WeU” — A Release— G ibraltar-M alta— Religion
and Nobility— Malta Relics—The Lazaretto—Death in the
Lazaretto...................................................................................... 374
V.
V I.
VII.
Reminiscences of
The Peiraeus— Landscape
— Basileus— England for Ever !— Classic Remains-rîrrw
again.............................................................................................. 386
A t h e n s .—
t h e E a s t . — First Emotions—
The Bazaar— A Bastinado— Women— The Caravan Bridge
— Smyrna— The W h i s t l e r .......................................................395
S m y r n a — F i r s t G lim p s e s o f
Caiques— Eothen’s “ Misseri
A Turkish
Bath— Constantinople— His Highness the Sultan— Ich
mochte nicht der Sultan seyn— A Subject for a Ghazul—
The Child-Murderer— Turkish Children— Modesty— The
Seraglio— The Sultanas* Puffs— The Sublime Porte— The
Schoolmaster in Constantinople..................................................4^3
C o n s t a n t in o p le .—
CONTENTS,
viii
CHAP.
V III.
PAGE
R h o d e s . — J e w P ilg rim s — J e w B a rg a in in g — R e lic s o f C h iv a lr y —
M ah om eta n ism
B a n k ru p t— A
D ra g o m a n — A
F in e
D ay—
R h o d e s ................................................................................................................. 4 2 3
IX .
X.
T h e W h ite
S q u a l l .................................................................................. 4 3 1
TELM ESSU S— BEYRO U X.— T e lm e s s u s — H a lil P a sh a — B e y ro u t—
A P o rtra it— A B a ll on B o a rd — A S y r ia n P rin c e
X I.
A D a y a n d N ig h t in
.
.
435
S y r i a . — L a n d in g a t J a ffa — Jaffa— T h e
C a d i o f J affa— T h e C a d i’s D iv a n — A N ig h t-S c e n e at Ja ffa—
S y ria n N ig h t’s E n t e r t a i n m e n t s .............................................................. 4 4 3
X II.
F rom
J a ffa
— A
to
J e r u s a l e m . — A C a v a lc a d e — M a rch in g O rd e r
T o u rn a m e n t— R a m le h — R o a d s id e
S k e tc h e s — R e n c o n
tr e s — A b o u G o s h — N ig h t befo re Jeru sa lem
X III.
.
.
450
J ERUSALEM. — A P illa r o f th e C h u rc h — Q u a rters— J e w ish P ilg rim s
— Jeru sa lem J e w s — E n g lis h S e r v ic e — J e w is h H is to ry — T h e
C h u rc h o f th e S e p u lc h re — T h e P o rc h o f th e S e p u lc h re —
G r e e k an d L a tin L e g e n d s — T h e C h u rc h o f th e S e p u lc h re —
B e th le h e m — T h e L a tin C o n v e n t— T h e A m e ric a n C o n su l—
S u b je cts
fo r
S k e tc h in g — D e p a rtu re — A
D ay’s
M a rch —
R a m l e h ...........................................................................................................4 5 9
X IV .
F rom
J a ffa
to
A l e x a n d r i a . — B ill o f F a re — F ro m Ja ffa to
A le x a n d r ia .......................................................................................................... 4 7 9
XV.
T o C a i r o . — T h e N ile — F irst S ig h t o f C h e o p s — T h e E z b e k ic h —
T h e H d te l d ’ O rie n t— T h e C o n q u e ro r W a g h o m — A rch ite ctu re
— T h e C h ie f o f th e
G ra cio u s
“ R in t”
H a g — A S tre e t-S ce n e — A m a o o ts — A
P rin c e — T h e
S c re w -P ro p e lle r
in
E g y p t— T h e
in E g y p t — T h e M a lig n e d O rien t— “ T h e S e x ” —
S u b je c ts fo r P a in ters— S la v e s — A
G lim p se s o f th e
H a re m — A n
H yde
E a ste rn
P a rk
M o sle m —
A cq u a in ta n c e — A n
E g y p tia n D in n e r— L ife in th e D e s e rt— F ro m th e T o p o f th e
P y ra m id — G ro u p s fo r L a n d s ca p e — P ig m ie s an d P y ra m id s—
T h in g s to th in k o f— F i n i s ....................................................................4 8 6
OF
1842.
TO
CHARLES
LE V ER,
E s q .,
OF TEMPLEOGUE HOUSE, NEAR DUBLIN.
My dear Lever,
Harry Lorrequer needs no complimenting in a dedi
cation ; and I would not venture to inscribe this volume to the Editor of
the “ Dublin University Magazine,” who, I fear, must disapprove of a
great deal which it contains.
But allow me to dedicate my little book to a good Irishman (the
hearty charity of whose visionary red-coats, some substantial personages
in black might imitate to advantage), and to a friend from whom I have
received a hundred acts of kindness and cordial hospitality.
Laying aside for a moment the travelling-title of Mr. Titmarsh, let
me acknowledge these favours in my own name, and subscribe myself,
my dear Lever,
Most sincerely and gratefully yours,
W. M. THACKERAY.
Lopidofty April 27, 1843.
T H E IRISH SKETCH BOOK.
CH APTER
I.
A SUMMER DAY IN DUBLIN, OR THERE AND THEREABOUTS.
T h e c o a ch that brings the passenger b y w ood and m ountain, b y
b r a w lin g i^'aterfiEill and gloom y plain, b y the lon ely lake o f F estin io g
a n d a cro ss the swmging w orld’s w onder o f a M enai Bridge, through
d is m a l A n glesea to dism al H o lyh ead — the Birm ingham m ail,—
m a n a g e s matters so cleverly, that after ten hours* ride the traveller is
t h r u s t incontinently on board the packet, and the steward says there’s
n o u s e in providing dinner on board because the passage is so short.
T h a t is tr u e : but why n ot give us h a lf an hour on sh o re? T e n
h o u r s sp e n t on a coach-box render the dinner question one o f extrem e
i m p o r t a n c e ; and as the p ack et reaches K in gstow n at m idnight, w hen
a ll t h e w o rld is asleep, the inn-larders lo cked up, and the co o k in
b e d ; a n d a s the mail is n ot landed until five in the m orning (at
w’h i c h h o u r the passengers are considerately aw akened b y a great
s t a m p i n g a n d shouting overh ead), m ight n ot “ L o rd Ix )w th e r” give
u s o n e lit tle half hour? E ve n the steward agreed that it was a
u s e le s s a n d atrocious ty ra n n y ; and, in deed, after a little demur,
p r o d u c e d a half-dozen o f fried eggs, a feeble m akeshift for a dinner.
O u r p a s s a g e across from the H ead was m ade in a rain so pouring
a n d s t e a d y , th a t sea and coast were entirely hidden from us, and one
c o u ld s e e v e r y little beyon d the glo w in g tip o f the cigar w hich
rem ained a lig h t n obly in spite o f the w eather.
W h en the gallan t
2
THE IRISH SK E TCH BOOK,
exertions o f that fiery spirit were o ver for ever, and burning b ra v e ly
to the end it had breathed its last in doin g its m aster service, a ll
becam e b la ck and cheerless around ; the passengers had d rop p ed ofif
one b y one, preferring to b e d ry and ill belo w rather than w et a n d
squeam ish a b o v e ; even the m ate, w ith his gold-laced cap (w ho is so
astonishingly like M r. C h arles D ick en s that he m ight pass for th a t
gentlem an)— even the m ate said he w ould go to his cabin and turn in.
So there rem ained nothing for it but to do as all the w orld h ad do n e.
H e n ce it w as im possible to institute the com parison betw een the
B ay o f N a p les and that o f D u blin (the B ee o f N eep les the form er is
som etim es called in this country^), where I have heard the lik en ess
asserted in a great num ber o f societies and conversations. B ut h o w
could one see the B ay o f D u b lin in the dark ? and how, sup posin g
one co u ld see it, should a person behave w ho has n ever seen th e
B a y o f N a p le s? I t is but to take the sim ilarity for granted, a n d
rem ain in b e d till morning.
W hen everybo d y was aw akened at five o ’c lo ck b y the n o ise
m ade upon the rem oval o f the m ail-bags, there was heard a cheerless
dribblin g and pattering overhead, w hich led one to w ait still further
until the rain should cease. A t length the steward said the last b o a t
w as go in g ashore, and receiving half-a-crowm for his ow n services (th e
regular tariff) intim ated likew ise that it was the custom for gen tlem en
to com plim ent the stewardess w ith a shilling, w hich cerem ony w as
also com p lied with.
N o doubt she is an am iable w om an, a n d
deserves an y sum o f m oney. A s for inquiring w hether she m erited
it or n o t in this instance, that surely is quite unfair. A traveller w h o
stops to inquire the deserts o f every individual claim ant o f a sh illin g
o n his road, had best stay quiet at home. I f w e only go t w h at w e
deserved^— heaven save u s !— m any o f us m ight whistle for a dinner.
A lo n g pier, with a steam er or two at hand, and a few sm all
vessels lying on either side o f the j e t t y ; a town irregularly bu ilt,
w ith m any handsom e terraces, som e churches, and show y-lookin g
h o te ls ; a few people straggling on the b e a c h ; tw o or three cars a t
the railroad station, w hich runs alon g the shore as far as D u b lin ;
the sea stretching interm inably e a stw a rd ; to the north the H ill o f
H o w th , lyin g gray behind the m is t ; and, directly under his feet,
upon d ie w et, b la ck, shining, slippery deck, an agreeable reflection o f
his own legs, disappearing seem ingly in the direction o f the ca b in
from w hich he is s u e s : are th e sights w hich a traveller m ay rem ark
LANDING A T KINGSTOW N.
3
o n co m in g on d e ck at K in gsto w n p ier on a w et m orning— let us say
o n an average m o rn in g; for accordin g to the statem ent o f wellin form ed natives, the Irish d ay is m ore often rainy than otherwise.
A h ideous obelisk, stuck upon four fat balls, and surm ounted w ith a
crow n on a cushion (the latter were n o bad em blem s perhaps o f the
m on arch in w hose honour they w ere raised), com m em orates the
sacred spot at w hich G eorge I V . quitted Ireland. Y o u are landed
here from the ste a m e r; and a carm an, w ho is daw dling m the n eigh,
bo u rh o o d , with a straw in his m outh, com es leisurely up to ask
w h eth er yo u w ill go to D u b lin ? I s it natural indolence, or the
effect o f despair because o f the neighbouring railroad, w hich renders
him so indifferent?— H e does n ot even take the straw out o f his
m outh as he proposes the question— ^he seem s quite careless as to
th e answer.
H e said he w ould take m e to D u blin “ in three quarthers,” as
soon as w e began a parley. A s to the fare, he w ould n ot hear o f
it— he said h e w ould leave it to m y h o n o u r; he w ould take m e for
nothing. W as it possible to refuse such a gen teel o ffer? T h e tim es
are v e ry m uch changed since those described b y the facetious J ack
H in ton , w^hen the carm en tossed up for the passenger, and those w ho
w on him to o k h im : for the rem aining cars on the stand did n ot seem
to ta k e the least interest in the bargain, o r to offer to overdrive or
underbid their com rade in an y way.
B efo re that day, so m em orable for jo y and sorrow, for rapture at
receivin g its m onarch and tearful grief at losing him , w hen G eorge I V .
cam e an d left the m aritim e resort o f the citizens o f D u blin, it bore a
less gen teel nam e than that w hich it owns at present, and was called
D unleary.
A fte r that glorious event D u nleary disdained to be
D unleary an y longer, and becam e K in gsto w n henceforw ard and for
ever. N um erous terraces and pleasure-houses have been built in the
place— th e y stretch row after row alon g the banks o f the sea, and
rise o n e a b o v e another on the hill. T h e rents o f these houses are
said to b e very h ig h ; the D u blin citizens crow d into them in su m m er;
and pLgreat source o f pleasure and com fort m ust it b e to them to have
the fresh sea-breezes and prospects so near to the metropolis.
T h e b etter sort o f houses are handsom e and sp acio u s; b ut the
fashionable quarter is y et in an unfinished state, for enterprising
architects are alw ays beginn in g n ew roads, rows and te rra c e s : n o r
are those alread y bu ilt b y an y m eans com plete.
B esid e the aristo
4
THE IRISH SK E TCH BOOK.
cratic part o f the tow n is a com m ercial one, and nearer to D u b lin
stretch lines o f low cottages w hich h ave n ot a K in gsto w n lo o k a t all,
but are eviden tly o f the D u nleary period. I t is quite curious to see
in the streets w here the shops aj:e, how often the painter o f th e sign
boards begins with big letters, and ends, for want o f space, w ith
s m a ll; and the E nglishm an accustom ed to the thriving n eatness a n d
regularity w hich characterize tow ns great and sm all in his ow n
country, can ’t fail
a battered, rakish
A s seam en of all
tem perance, there
to n otice the difference here.
look, and seem go in g to ruin
nations com e hither w ho have
are p len ty o f liquor-shops still,
T h e houses h ave
before their tim e.
m ade n o v o w o f
and shabby cigar-
shops, and shabby milliners* and tailors* with fly-blown prints o f old
fashions. T h e bakers an d apothecaries m ake a great brag o f their
calling, and you see m e d i c a l h a l l , or p u b l i c b a k e r y , b a l l y r a g g e t
FLOUR-STORE, (or w hatever the name m ay be,) pom pously in scribed
over very hum ble tenem ents. Som e com fortable grocers* and butchers*
shops, and num bers o f shabby sauntering people, the younger part o f
whom are barelegged and bareheaded, m ake up the rest o f the picture
w hich the stranger sees as his car goes jin glin g through the street.
A fter the town com e the suburbs o f pleasure-houses; low , one-
storeyed cottages for the m ost p a r t : som e neat and fresh, som e that
h ave passed aw ay from the gen teel state altogether, and exhibit dow n
right p o v e rty ; som e in a state o f transition, with broken w indow s
and pretty rom antic nam es upon tum ble-down gates. W h o lives in
them ? O n e fancies that the chairs and tables inside are broken , that
the teapot on the breakfast-table has no spout, and the tableclo th is
ragged and s lo p p y ; that the lady o f the house is in dubious curl
papers, and the gentlem an, w t h an im perial to his chin, wears a flaring
dressing-gown all ragged at the elbows.
T o b e sure, a traveller w ho in ten m inutes can see n ot only the
outsides o f houses, but the interiors o f the same, must have rem arkably
k een s ig h t; and it is early yet to speculate. It is clear, how ever, that
these are pleasure-houses for a certain c la ss ; and lookin g at the
houses, one can’t but fan cy the inhabitants resem ble them som eyh at.
T h e car, on its road to D ublin, passes b y numbers o f these— ^by more
shabbiness than a L on don er w ill see in the course o f his hom e
peregrinations for a year.
T h e capabilities o f the country, how ever, are very great, and in
m any instances have been taken advantage o f : for you see, besides
ENTRANCE TO DUBLIN.
the m isery, numerous handsom e houses and parks alon g the road,
h avin g fine law ns and w o o d s ; and the sea is in our view at a quarter
o f an hour's ride from D ublin. I t is the continual appearance o f this
sort o f w ealth w hich m akes the poverty m ore s trik in g : and thus
b e tw ee n the tw o (for there is no vacant space o f fields betw een
K in g sto w n and D u blin) the car reaches the city. T h e re is but little
com m erce on this road, w hich was also in extrem ely bad repair. I t
is n eglected for the sake o f its thriving neighbour the ra ilro a d ; on
w h ich a dozen p retty little stations accom m odate the inhabitants o f
th e various villages through w hich w'e pass.
T h e entrance to the capital is very handsom e. T h e re is no bustle
and throng o f carriages, as in L o n d o n ; but yo u pass b y num erous
row s o f n eat houses, fronted w ith gardens and adorned with all sorts
o f gay-lookin g creepers. P retty m arket-gardens, with trim beds o f
plants an d shining glass-houses, give the suburbs a riante and
cheerful look ; and, passing under the arch o f the railway, w e are in
the city itself. H e n ce yo u com e upon several old-fashioned, w ellbuilt, airy, stately streets, and through Fitzw illiam Square, a n oble
place, the garden o f w hich is full o f flowers and foliage. T h e leaves
are green, and n ot b la ck as in sim ilar places in L o n d o n ; the red
brick houses tall and handsom e. P resently thie car stops before an
extrem ely b ig red house, in that extrem ely large square, Stephen's
(ireen, w here M r. O ’C o n n ell says there is one day or other to b e a
P arliam en t T h e re is room enough for that, or for an y other edifice
which fismcy or patriotism m ay have a m ind to erect, for part o f one
of the sides o f the square is not yet built, and you see the fields and
the coun try beyond.
T h is then is the ch ie f city o f the aliens.— T h e hotel to w hich I
had b een directed is a respectable old edifice, m uch frequented b y
families from the country, and w here the solitary traveller m ay lik e
wise find society : for h e m ay either use the “ Shelburne " as an h o tel
or a boarding-house, in w hich latter case he is com fortably acco m
m odated at the very m oderate d aily charge o f six-and-eightpence.
For this charge a copious breakfast is p rovided for him in the coffeeroom, a perpetual luncheon is likew ise there spread, a plentiful d in ner
is ready at six o’c l o c k : after w hich there is a drawing-room and a
rubber o f whist, w ith tay and coffee and cakes in plenty to satisfy the
6
THE IRISH SK ETCH BOOK.
laiêst appetite. T h e hotel is m ajestically con ducted b y cle rk s a n d
other o ffice rs; the landlord h im self d oes n ot appear, after the h o n est,
com fortable English fashion, b ut lives in a private m ansion h ard b y ,
where his nam e m ay b e read inscribed on a brass-plate, lik e that o f
any other private gentlem an.
A w om an m elodiously crying “ D u blin B ay herrings ** passed ju s t
as we cam e up to the door, and as that fish is famous th rou ghou t
E urope, I seized the earliest opportunity and ordered a broiled o n e
for breakfast. It m erits all its re p u ta tio n : and in this re sp e ct I
should think the B ay o f D u blin is far superior to its rival o f N a p le s.
A re there any herrings in N aples B a y ? D olphin s there m ay be; a n d
M oun t V esuvius, to be sure, is bigger than even the H ill o f H o w t li; b u t
a dolphin is better in a sonnet than at a breakfast, and w hat p o e t is
there that, at certain periods o f the day, w ould hesitate in his c h o ic e
betw een the tw o ?
W ith this famous broiled herring the m orning papers are serv'ed
u p ; and a great part o f these, too, gives opportunity o f reflection to
the new-comer, and shows him how different this coun try is from h is
o^Ti. Som e hundred years hence, w hen students w ant to in form
them selves o f the history o f the present day, and refer to files o f Times
and
Chronicle for the purpose, I think it is possible that they w ill
con sult, not so m uch those lum inous and philosophical leading-articles
w h ich call our attention at present both b y the m ajesty o f th eir
eloquence and the largeness o f their type, but that they w ill turn to
those parts o f the journals into w hich inform ation is squeezed in the
sm allest possible p r in t: to the advertisem ents, nam ely, the law a n d
p olice reports, and to the instructive narratives supplied b y that illused bo d y o f men who transcribe kn ow ledge at the rate o f a p en ny
a line.
T h e papers before m e {The Morning Register^ L ib eral and R om an
C atholic, Sounder^s Neivs-Letter^ neutral and Con servative,) g iv e a
liv e ly picture o f the m ovem ent o f city and country on this present
fourth d ay o f July, 1842, and the E nglishm an can scarcely fail, as he
reads them , to note m any sm all points o f difference existing betw een
his own coun try and this. H o w do the Irish amuse them selves in the
capital ? T h e love for theatrical exhibitions is evid en tly n ot very great.
T h eatre R o y a l— M iss K e m b le and the Sonnam bula, an A nglo-Italian
im portation.
T h e atre R o y a l, A b b e y Street— T h e T em p le o f M agic
and the W izard, last w eek. A d elp h i T heatre, G reat B runsw ick Street
IRISH NEW SPAPERS,
7
— ^Tlie O rigin a l Seven L an cash ire B ell-rin gers: a deliciou s excitem en t
in d ee d ! P o rto b e llo G arden s— “ T h e l a s t e r u p t i o n b u t s i x , ” sa>'s
th e a d vertisem en t in capitals. A n d , finally, “ M iss H a y es w ill give
h er first a n d farew ell co n cert at the R o tu n d a, previous to leavin g her
n a tive co u n try .”
O n ly one instance o f Irish talent d o w e read of,
a n d that, in a desp on ding tone, aim ounces its intention o f quitting
its n ative coun try. A ll th e rest o f the pleasiures o f the evenin g are
im p ortation s from cockn ey-lan d.
T h e Sonnam bula from C o v en t
G a rd en , the W izard from th e Strand, the Seven L an cash ire B ellringers from Islin gton, o r the C ity R o a d , n o d o u b t ; and as for T h e
last E ru ptio n b u t Six,” it has crumped near the “ E lep h an t and C a s tle ”
a n y tim e these tw o years, until the co ck n e ys w ould w on der at it no
longer.
T h e com m ercial advertisem ents are b u t few — a few horses an d cars
for sale ; som e flam ing announcem ents o f insurance co m p a n ie s; som e
“ em porium s ” o f S cotch tw eeds and E n glish b ro a d clo th s; an auction
for dam aged s u g a r; an d an estate o r tw o for sale. T h e y lie in the
colum ns languidly, an d a t their ease as it w e r e : how different from
the throng, and squeeze, and bustle o f the com m ercial part o f a
L on d o n paper, w here every m an (excep t M r. G eo rge R obin s) states
his ca se as briefly as possible, because thousands m ore are to be
heard b esid es him self, an d as if he h ad n o tim e for talk in g !
T h e m ost a ctive advertisers are the schoolm asters.
I t is n ow the
happy tim e o f the M idsum m er h o lid a y s ; and the p edagogues m ake
wonderful attem pts to encourage parents, an d to attract fresh pupils
for the ensuin g half-year. O f all these announcem ents that o f M adam e
S h a n a h a n (a delightful nam e) is perhaps the m ost b rillia n t
“ To
Parents and G uardians.— Paris.— Such parents and gu ardian s as m ay
wish to entrust their children for education in its fullest extent to
M adam e S h a n a h a n , can hofe the advantage o f being conducted to Paris
by her brother, the R e v . J. P . O ’R e illy, o f C h urch Street C h a p e l: ”
which adm irable arrangem ent carries the parents to Paris and leaves
the ch ild ren in D ublin. A h , M adam e, you m ay tak e a F ren ch t it le ;
but y o u r heart is still in your country, and you are to
fullest extent
an Irishw om an s t i l l !
F o n d legen d s are to b e found in Irish b o o k s regardin g p laces
where y o u m ay n ow see a round tow er and a little o ld chap el, tw elve
feet square, w here fam ous universities are o n ce said to have stood,
and w h ich h a ve accom m odated m yriads o f students. M rs. H a ll
S
Tl/E I R I S H S K E T C H R O C K .
m entions G lendalough, in W icklow , as one o f these p laces o f le a rn in g ;
n or can the fact be questioned, as the universities existed hundreds o f
years since, and no sort o f records are left regarding them. A cen
tury hence some antiquary m ay ligh t upon a D u blin paper, and form
m arvellous calculations regarding the state o f education in the coun try.
F o r instance, at B ectiv e H o u se Sem inary, con ducted b y D r. J. L .
B urke, ex-Scholar T .C .D ., no less than two hutuircd ami
yo u n g
gentlem en took prizes at the M idsum m er exam ination : nay, som e o f
the m ost m eritorious carried o ff a dozen prem ium s a-piece.
A
D r. D elam ere, ex-Scholar T .C .D ., distributed three hundred a n d
twenty rew ards to his youn g frie n d s : and if w e allow that one lad in
tw en ty is a prizem an, it is clear that there m ust be six thousand four
hundred and forty youths under the D o cto r’s care.
O th er schools are advertised in the sam e journals, each w ith its
hundred o f prize-bearers; and if other schools are advertised, how
m any m ore must there b e in the coun try w hich are n ot a d v e rtis e d !
T h e re m ust be hundreds o f thousands o f prizem en, m illions o f
scholars ; besides national-schools, hedge-schools, infant-schools, and
the like. T h e E n glish reader w ill see the accuracy o f the calculation .
In the Morning Registery the Englishm an w ill find som ethin g to
the full as curious and startling to h im : you read g ravely in the
E n glish language how the B ishop o f A ureliopolis has ju st b e en c o n
secrated ; and that the distinction has been conferred upon him b y —
1
th e H o ly P o n tiff!— the P o p e o f R o m e , b y all that is h o ly
Such an
announcem ent sounds quite strange in Englishy and in yo u r ow n
country, as it w e re : or isn’t it your ow n c o u n try ? Suppose the
A rch b ish op o f C an terbu ry w ere to send o ver a clergym an to R o m e ,
and consecrate him Bishop o f the P alatin e o r the Suburra, I w on d er
how his H o lin ess w ould lik e that ?
T h e re is a report o f D r. M iley ’s sermon upon the o cca sio n o f th e
n ew bishop ’s c o n se c ra tio n ; and the R aster hap p ily lauds the dis
course for its “ refined and fervent elo qu en ce.” T h e D o cto r salutes
the L o rd Bishop o f A u relio p o lis on his adm ission am ong the “ P rin ces
o f the Sanctuary,” gives a blo w
en passant at the E stablish ed C h u rch ,
w h ereo f the revenues, he elegan tly says, “ m ight excite the zeal o f
D iv e s or Epicurus to b ecom e a bish op ,” and havin g ven ted his sly
w rath upon th e “ co u rtly artifice and intrigue ” o f the B ench , p ro ceed s
to m ake the m ost outrageous com parisons with regard to m y L o rd
o f A u re lio p o lis ; his virtues, his sincerity, and th e severe p rivatio n s
IRISH NEW SPAPERS.
9
and persecutions w hich a ccep tan ce o f the episcop al office entails
upon him.
“ That very evening,” says the Register^ “ the new bishop enter
tained at dinner, in the chapel-house, a select num ber o f fr ie n d s ;
amongst w hom w ere the officiating prelates and clergym en w ho
assisted in the cerem onies o f tlie day. T h e repast was provid ed b y
Mr. Jude, o f G rafton Street, and was served up in a style o f elegan ce
and comfort that d id great honour to that gen tlem an ’s character as a
restaurateur. The 7oines were o f the richest and rarest quality. I t
may be truly said to h ave been an entertainm ent w h ere the feast o f
reason and the flow o f soul predom inated. T h e com p an y broke up
at nine.”
And so m y lord is scarcely out o f chapel but his privations
b ^ n ! W ell. L e t us hope that, in the course o f his episcop acy,
he may incur n o greater hardships, and that D r. M iley m ay com e tp
be a bishop too in his tim e ; w hen perhaps he w ill have a b etter opinion
of the Bench.
'fhe cerem on y and feelings described are curious, I th in k ; and
more so perhaps to a person w ho was in E n gland o n ly yesterday, and
quitted it ju st as their G races, Lordships, and R everen ces w ere
sitting dow n to dinner. A m o n g w hat new sights, ideas, custom s,
does the E nglish traveller find h im self after that b rie f six-hours*
journey from H o lyh ead
1
There is b ut one part m ore o f the papers to be lo o k ed a t ; and
that is the m ost painful o f all. In the law-reports o f the T ip p erary
special com m ission sitting at C lon m el, you read that P atrick B yrn e
is brought up for sentence, for the murder o f R o b e rt H a ll, E s q .: and
Chief Justice D o h erty says, “ P atrick Byrne, I w ill n ot now recapitu
late the circum stances o f yo u r enorm ous crim e, but gu ilty as you are
of the barbarity o f havin g perpetrated w ith your hand the foul
murder o f an unoffending o ld m an— barbarous, cow ardly and cruel
as that a ct wâs— there lives one m ore gu ilty man, and that is he w hose
diabolical m ind hatched the foul con sp iracy o f w hich yo u were but
the instrument and the perpetrator. W h o ever that m ay be, I do not
envy him his protracted existence. H e has sent that aged gentlem an,
without o n e m om ent’s warning, to face his G o d ; but he has don e
more: he has brou ght you, unhappy m an, w ith m ore deliberation and
more cruelty, to face yo u r G o d , with the weight of that mads blood
upoft you. I h ave now o n ly to pronounce the sentence o f the l a w : ”
iCiL JiUJl VlCaU clh LI1L‘\
l.iUKlll, tn
crav>lLH] a w a y after the fill ; when the a->ass
siyns ( -fhte.
i'usIkhI
after him. fractnreil liis
aaal lelt ha n on a (lunehill deah.
lioiirs, a n d nobody da rod to touch it.
l liere l , af
Latf an'
there two hours after the murder, and an inq
as it lay on the dufighill. Laffan was driver o
which were formerly held by Pat Cummins
charge o f the lands before Laffan tvas mt
dragged out of Cummins’s house in the pn
refused to swear to the murderers, and was
witness, James Meara, who with other n
when asked whether he cried out, or wheth
deceased, Meara answers, Indeed I did not;
it was no business o f ours /”
Six more instances are given of attempts t
judge, in passing sentence, comments in tlie
“ The Lord Chief Justice addressed the s
— It w'as now his painful duty to pronounce i
respectively the punishment which the law
against them for the crimes of which the
Those crimes were one and all of them of
they were crimes which, in point of morals, im
of murder; and if it had pleased God to spi
pollution of that offence, the court could not
fact, that althoiiP ’h d e a th h a d n o t #»ncn#»rl
IRISH NEW SPAPERS.
u
these shots k ille d R y a n ’s m are, and it w as b y the m ercy o f G o d that the
life o f th e prisoner had not b ecom e forfeited b y his own a c t T h e n ext
cu lp rit w as John Pou nd, w ho was equ ally gu ilty o f the intended out
ra ge perpetrated on the life o f an unoffending individual— that indi
vid u al a fem ale, surrounded b y her little children, five or six in num ber—
w ith a co m p lete carelessness to the probable con sequences, w'hile she
an d h e r fam ily w ere goin g, or had gon e, to bed. T h e contents o f a gu n
w ere discharged through th e door, w hich entered the panel in three
differen t places. T h e deaths resulting from this act m ight have been
exte n sive , but it was n ot a m atter o f an y m om ent how m any w ere d e
p rived o f life. T h e w om an had ju st risen from her prayers, preparing
h e rse lf to sleep under the p rotection o f that arm w hich w ou ld shield
the ch ild and p rotect the in nocent, w hen she w’as w ounded. A s to
C o rn eliu s F ly n n and P atrick D w yer, they likew ise w ere the subjects
o f sim ilar im putations and sim ilar observations. T h e re was a very
slight differen ce betw een them , but n ot such as to am ount to an y real
distinction. T h e y had go n e upon a com m on, illegal purpose, to the
house o f a respectable individual, for the purpose o f interfering with
the d o m e stic arrangem ents he thought fit to m ake. T h e y had no
sort o f rig h t to interfere w ith the disposition o f a m an’s a ffa irs ; and
what w ou ld b e the con sequences if the reverse w ere to be h e ld ?
No im putation had ever been m ade upon the gen tlem an w hose house
was visited, b u t he w as desired to dism iss another, under the pains
and penalties o f death, although that other w as n ot a retained servant,
but a friend w h o had com e to M r. H o g a n on a visit. B ecau se this
visitor used som etim es to inspect the m en at w ork, the lawless edict
issued that he should be put away. G o o d G o d ! to w hat extent did
the prisoners and such m isguided m en in tend to carry out their
objects ? W h ere was their dictation to cease ? are they, and those in
a similar rank, to take upon them selves to regulate how m any and
what men a farm er should take into his em ploym ent ? W'ere they to
be the ju d g es w hether a servant had discharged his duty to his prin
cipal ? o r w as it because a visitor happened to com e, that the host
should turn him aw ay, under the pains and penalties o f death ? H is
lordship, after advertin g to the gu ilt o f the prisoners in this case—
the last tw o persons co n victed , T h o s. Stapleton and T h o s. G lee so n —
said their ca se w as so recen tly before the public, that it w as sufficient
to say th e y w ere m orally gu ilty o f what m ight be co n sidered w ilful
and deliberate m urder. M u rd er w as m ost awful, becau se it co u ld
12
on ly be suggested b y deliberate m alice, and the act o f the p risoners
w as the result o f that base, m alicious, and diabo lical disposition.
W hat w as the cause o f resentm ent against the unfortunate m an w h o
had been shot at, and so desperately wounded ? W h y, he had d a red
to co m p ly with the w ishes o f a ju st la n d lo rd ; and because the la n d
lord, for the benefit o f his tenantry, proposed that the farms sh o u ld
b e squared, those who acquiesced in his w ishes w ere to b e e q u a lly
the victim s o f the assassin. W h at were the facts in this case ? T h e
two prisoners at the bar, Stapleton and G leeson , sprung out a t th e
man as he was leaving work, placed him on his knees, and w ith ou t
givin g him a m om ent o f preparation, com m enced the w ork o f b lo o d ,
in tending deliberately to despatch that unprepared and un offend ing
individual to eternity. W h at coun try w as it that th ey lived in, in
w hich such crim es could be perpetrated in the open light o f d a y ?
I t was not necessary that deeds o f darkness should be shrouded in
the clouds o f night, for the darkness o f the deeds them selves w as co n
sidered a sufficient protection. H e (the C h ie f Justice) w as n ot aw are
o f any solitary instance at the present com m ission, to show that th e
crim es com m itted were the consequences o f poverty. P o v erty sh o u ld
b e no justification, h o w e v e r; it m ight be som e little palliation, b u t o n
no trial at this com m ission did it appear that the crim e could b e attri
buted to distress. H is lordship co n cluded a m ost im pressive address,
b y sentencing the six prisoners called up to transportation for life.
“ T h e clo ck was near m idnight as the court was cleared, an d th e
w hole o f the proceedings were solem n and im pressive in the extrem e.
T h e com m ission is likely to prove extrem ely beneficial in its results
on the future tranquillity o f the country."
I confess, for m y part, to that com m on cant and sickly sentim en
tality, w hich, thank G od ! is felt b y a great num ber o f p eop le now -adays, and w hich leads them to revolt against m urder, w hether p e r
form ed b y a ruffian’s knife or a hangm an's r o p e : w hether a cco m
panied with a curse from the th ief as he blow s his victim 's brains o u t,
or a prayer from m y lord on the bench in his w ig and b la ck cap. N a y ,
is all the cant and sickly sentim entality on our side, and m ight n ot
som e such charge be applied to the adm irers o f the go o d old fashion ?
L o n g ere this is printed, for instance, B yrne and W oods h ave b e en
hanged : * sent “ to face their G o d ," as the C h ie f Justice says,
w ith
* The
tw o m en w e re e x e cu te d p u rsu an t to
s o le m n ly in d e n y in g th e ir g u ilt.
sen ten ce,
an d b o th p e r s is te d
T h e r e can b e n o d o u b t o f i t : b u t it a p p e a rs to>
A W ALK THROUGH DUBLIN.
13
the w eigh t o f their victim ’s b lo o d upon them ,”— ju st observation ;
a n d rem em ber that it is we who send them. It is true that the ju d g e
hop es H e a v e n w ill have m ercy upon their s o u ls ; but are such recom
m endations o f particular w eight because th ey com e from the bench ?
P s h a ! I f w e go on killin g p eople w ithout g iv in g them tim e to repent,
let us at least give up the can t o f praying for their souls’ salvation.
W e find a man drow ning in a well, shut the lid upon him , and heartily
p ray that he m ay ge t out. Sin has hold o f him, as the tw o ruffians
o f L affan yonder, and wê stand aloof, and hope that he m ay escape.
L e t us g iv e up this cerem ony o f con dolen ce, an d be honest, like the
w itness, and say, “ L e t him save h im self or not, it’s no business o f
ours.” . . . H ere a waiter, with a very broad, though insinuating
a ccen t says, “ H a v e you don e with the Sandthers^ sir? there’s a gen tle
man w aiting for’t these tw o hours.”
A n d so he carries o ff that
strange picture o f pleasure and pain, trade, theatres, schools, courts,
churches, life and death, in Irelan d, w hich a man m ay buy for a fourpenny-piece.
T h e papers b ein g read, it becam e m y duty to discover the town ;
and a handsom er town, with few er p eop le in it, it is im possible to see
on a sum m er’s day. In the w hole wido square o f Step hen ’s G reen,
I thin k there were n ot m ore than two nursery-maids to keep com
pany w ith the statue o f G eorge I., w ho rides on horseback in the
m iddle o f the garden, the horse havin g his foot up to trot, as if he
wanted to go out o f town too. Sm all troops o f dirty children (too
poor and dirty to h ave lodgings at K in gstow n ) were squatting here
and there upon the sunshiny steps, the only clients at the thresholds
o f the professional gentlem en w hose nam es figure on brass-plates on
the doors.
A stand o f la zy carm en, a policem an or two with
clin kin g boot-heels, a coup le o f m oaning beggars leaning against the
rails and callin g upon the L o rd , and a fellow with a to y and b o o k
stall, w here the lives o f St. Patrick, R o b e rt Em m ett, and L o rd
E d w a rd F itzgerald m ay b e bought for double their value, wêre all the
p o p u la tio n o f the G reen.
A t the d o o r o f the K ild a re Street C lub, I saw eight gentlem en
b e a p o in t o f h o n o u r w ith th ese u n h a p p y m en to m a k e n o sta tem e n t w h ic h m a y
in c r im in a te th e w itn e sses w h o a p p eared on th eir b eh a lf, an d on th e ir p a rt
p e ijn r e d th e m se lv es e q u a lly .
14
lo o k in g at tw o boys playin g at leap frog: at the door o f the U n iv ersity
six la zy porters, in jo ckey-cap s, w ere sunning them selves on a b e n ch
— -a sort o f blue-bottie r a c e ; and the B an k on the opposite sid e did
n ot lo o k as if sixpence-w orth o f chan ge had been n egotiated there
during the day.
T h e re w as a lad pretending to sell um brellas u n d er
the colonn ade, alm ost the only instance o f trade go in g o n ; a n d I
began to think o f Juan F ernan dez, or C am brid ge in the lo n g va ca tion .
In the courts o f the C o lle g e, scarce the gh ost o f a g y p or the sh ad o w
o f a bed-m aker.
In spite o f the solitude, the square o f the C o lle g e is a fine s ig h t :
a large ground, surrounded b y buildings o f various ages and styles,
but com fortable, handsom e, and in go o d re p a ir; a m o d em ro w o f
r o o m s ; a row that has been E lizabeth an o n c e ; a hall and senatehouse, facin g each other, o f the style o f G eo rge I . ; and a n o b le
library, w ith a range o f m any window s, and a fine m anly, sim p le
fa9ade o f cut stone. T h e library was shut. T h e librarian, I suppose,
is at the s ea sid e ; and the o n ly part o f the establishm ent w h ich I
could see was the museum , to w hich one o f the jo ck e y-cap p ed
porters con ducted m e, up a w ide, dism al staircase, (adorned w ith an
old p air o f jack-boots, a dusty canoe or two, a few helm ets, an d a
South Sea Island er's arm our,) w hich passes through a hall hung
round with cobw ebs (with w hich the blue-bottles are to o w ise to
m eddle), in to an old m ouldy room , filled w ith d in gy glass-cases,
under w hich the articles o f curiosity or science were p artially visible.
I n the m iddle was a ve ry seedy cam elopard (the word has grow n to
b e E nglish b y this tim e), the straw splitting through his tigh t old
skin and the b la ck co bbler’s-wax stuffing the dim orifices o f his
eyes. O th er beasts form ed a pleasing group around him , not so tall,
but equ ally m ouldy and old. T h e porter to o k m e round to the
cases, and told m e a great num ber o f fibs concerning their c o n te n ts :
there was the harp o f Brian Borou, and the sword o f som e one else,
and other cheap old gim cracks w ith their corollary o f lies. T h e
p lace w ould have been a disgrace to D o n Saltero. I was quite gla d
to w alk out o f it, and dow n the dirty staircase a g a in : ab ou t the
ornam ents o f w hich the jo ckey-cap p ed gy p had m ore figm ents to
te ll; an atrocious one (I forget w hat) relative to the p air o f b o o t s ;
near w hich— a fine specim en o f collegiate taste— were ^ e shoes of
M r. O ’Brien, the Irish g ia n t I f the collection is w orth preserving,-rand in deed the m ineralogical specim ens lo o k quite as aw fiil as thos^
A W ALK THROUGH DUBLIN.
15
in the B ritish M useum ,— one thin g is clear, that the room s are worth
sw eeping.
A p ail o f w ater costs nothing, a scrubbing-brush n ot
m uch, and a charw om an m ight b e hired for a trifle, to keep the room
in a d e ce n t state o f cleanliness.
A m o n g the curiosities is a m ask o f the D ean — ^not the scoffer
an d giber, n ot the fiery p olitician, n or the courtier o f St. John and
H a rle y , equ ally ready w ith servility and s c o r n ; but the poor old
m an, w hose great in tellect had deserted him, and w ho died old, wild,
an d sad. T h e tall forehead is fallen aw ay in a ruin, the m outh has
settled in a hideous, va ca n t smile. W ell, it was a m ercy for Stella
th at she died fir s t: it w as b e tte r that she should b e k illed b y his
un kin dn ess than b y th e sight o f his m is e r y ; w hich, to such a gen tle
heart as that, w ould have been harder still to bear.
T h e B ank, and other p u b lic buildings o f D u blin, are ju stly
fam ous.
In the form er m ay still b e seen the room w hich w as the
H o u se o f L o rd s form erly, and w here the B an k directors now sit,
under a clean m arble im age o f G eorge I I I . T h e H o u se o f C om m ons
has disappeared, for the accom m odation o f clerks and cashiers. T h e
interior is light, splendid, airy, well-furnished, and the outside o f the
building n o t less so. T h e E xch an ge, hard by, is an equ ally m agni
ficent s tru ctu re ; b ut the genius o f com m erce has deserted it, for all
its architectural beauty.
T h e re w as n o b o d y inside w hen I entered
but a p ert statue o f G eo rge I I I . in a R o m an toga, sim pering and
turning out his t o e s ; and two d irty children playing, w hose hoopsticks cau sed great clatterin g echoes un der the vacan t sounding
dom e. T h e neighbourhood is n o t cheerful, and has a dingy, povertystricken look.
W a lk in g tow ards the river, yo u h ave on either side o f you, at
C a rlisle Bridge, a very brilliant and beautiful p ro sp ect: the F o ur
C o u rts a n d their dom e to the left, the C u stom H o u se and its dom e to
th e r ig h t ; and in this direction seaward, a con siderable num ber o f
vessels are m oored, and the quays are b la ck and b u sy w ith th e
ca rg o e s discharged from ships. Seam en cheering, herring-wom en
ba w lin g, coal-carts loadin g— ^the scene is anim ated and lively. Y o n d e r
is the fiunous C o m E x c h a n g e ; but the L o rd M a y o r is attendin g to
h is duties in Parliam ent, and little o f n ote is go in g on. I had ju st
p a s s e d his lordship’s m ansion in D aw so n Street,— a queer old d irty
b r ic k house, w ith dum py u m s a t each extrem ity, and lo o kin g as i f a
sto re y o f it had been cu t off— a ras^ -h ouse. C lo se at hand, and
i6
p eerin g over a paling, is a statue o f our blessed sovereign G e o rg e I I .
H o w absurd these pom pous im ages look, o f defunct m ajesties, fo r
w hom no breathing soul cares a h a lfp e n n y ! I t is n ot so w ith th e
effigy o f W illiam I I I ., w ho has done som ething to m erit a statu e .
A t this m inute the L o rd M ayor has W illiam ’s effigy under a ca n v a s,
and is painting him o f a bright green, p ick e d out with y ello w — his
lordship's own livery.
T h e view alon g the quays to the F o u r C ourts has no sm all resem
blance to a view alon g the quays at Paris, though n ot so liv e ly as are
even those q uiet w alks. T h e vessels do not com e above-bridge, an d the
m arine population rem ains constant about them, and about num erous
dirty liquor-shops, eating-houses, and marine-store establishm ents,
w hich are kept for their accom m odation alon g the quay. A s far as
you can see, the shining L iffey flows aw ay eastw ard, hastening (like
the rest o f the inhabitants o f D u blin) to the sea.
In front o f Carlisle Bridge, and not in the least crow ded, though
in the m idst o f Sackville Street, stands N elson upon a stone pillar.
T h e P o st O ffice is on his right hand (only it is cut off) ; and on his
left, “ G resham ’s ” and the “ Im perial H o te l.” O f the latter let m e say
(from subsequent experience) that it is ornam ented b y a c o o k w h o
could dress a dinner b y the side o f M . Borel or M . Soyer.
W o u ld
there were m ore such artists in this ill-fated country I T h e street is
exceed in gly broad and h a n d so m e ; the shops at the com m encem ent,
rich and s p a c io u s ; but in U p p er Sackville Street, w hich closes w ith
the pretty buildin g and gardens o f the R otun da, the appearan ce o f
w ealth begins to fade som ewhat, and the houses lo o k as i f th ey h a d
seen better days. E ven in this, the great street o f the town, there is
scarcely an y one, and it is as vacan t and listless as P a ll M a ll in
O ctober. In one o f the streets o ff Sackville Street, is the house a n d
exhibition o f the Irish A cad em y, w hich I w ent to see, as it w as p o si
tive ly to close at the end o f the week. W h ile I w as there, tw o other
p eop le cam e in ; and w e had, besides, the m oney-taker and a porter,
to w hom the form er was reading, out o f a new spaper, those T ip p e ra ry
murders w hich w ere m entioned in a form er page. T h e echo to o k up
the them e, and hum m ed it glo o m ily through the vacan t place.
T h e drawings and reputation o f M r. Burton are w ell kn o w n in
F n g la n d : his pieces w ere the m ost adm ired in the collection . T h e
b est draughtsm an is an im itator o f M aclise, M r. Bridgem an, w h o se
pictures are full o f vigorous draw ing, and rem arkable too for th eir
A
j^ ra ce .
WALK
T J / R O n A I IH'n/JX.
I g a v e m y c a ta lo g u e to the tw o y o u n g ladies hclure m e n tio n e d ,
a n d h a v e forgotten the nam es o f other artists o f merit, whose wôrks
d e c k e d th e w alls o f the little gallery.
H ere, as in L on don , the A rt
U n i o n is m akin g a s t ir ; and several o f the p ieces were m arked as the
p r o p e r t y o f m em bers o f that body. T h e possession o f som e o f these
o n e w o u ld n ot b e inclined to c o v e t ; but it is p leasant to see that
p e o p le begin to b u y p ictures at all, and there w ill be no la ck o f artists
p r e s e n tly , in a coun try w here nature is so beautiful, and genius so
p le n ty . In speaking o f the fine arts and o f view s o f D u blin, it m ay
b e sa id that Mr. P etrie’s designs for C u rry’s G uide-book o f the C ity
a r e exce ed in gly beautiful, and, a b ove all, trushvorthy: no com m on
q u a lity in a descriptive artist a t present.
H a v in g a coup le o f letters o f introduction to leave, I had the
p le a su re to find the blinds dow n at one house, and the w indow in
p a p e rs at a n o th e r ; and at each p lace the k n o ck wâs answ ered in that
le isu re ly w ay, b y one o f those d in gy fem ale lieutenants w ho have no
n e e d to tell you that fam ilies are out o f town. So the solitude
b e ca m e very painful, and I thought I w ould go b a ck and talk to the
w'aiter a t the “ Shelburne,” the o n ly man in the w hole kingdom that I
k n ew .
I had been accom m odated w ith a queer little room , and
dressing-room on the ground floor, lookin g towards the G r e e n : a
bla ck -faced , good-hum oured cham ber-m aid had prom ised to per
form a deal o f scouring w hich w as eviden tly necessary, (a fact she
m ig h t h ave observed for six m onths b a ck , o n ly she is no doubt o f an
a b se n t turn,) and w hen I cam e b a ck from the w alk, I saw the little
ro o m w as evidently en jo yin g itself in the sunshine, for it had opened
its w in do w , and w as tak in g a breath o f fresh air, as it looked out upon
th e G reen .
H e re is a portrait o f the little w indow.
i8
A s I cam e up to it in the street, its appearance m ade m e bu rst
out laughing, very m uch to the surprise o f a ragged cluster o f idlers
lolling upon the steps n ext d o o r ; and I have drawn it here, n ot
because it is a particularly picturesque or rare kin d o f w indow , but
because, as I fancy, there is a sort o f moral in i t Y o u don 't see such
w indows com m only in respectable English inns— w indow s lean in g
gracefully upon hearth-broom s for support. L o o k out o f that >vindow
w ithout the hearth-broom and it w ould cut your head o f f : h o w the
beggars would start that are always sitting on the steps n ext do o r ! I s
it prejudice that m akes one prefer the English w indow , that relies o n
its own ropes and ballast (or lead if you like), and does not n ee d to
be propped by any foreign aid ? or is this o n ly a solitary in stance o f
the kind, and are there no other specim ens in Ireland o f the careless,
dangerous, extravagant hearth-broom system ?
In the m idst o f these reflections (which m ight have been ca rried
m uch farther, for a person w ith an allegorical turn m ight exam in e th e
entire country through this >vindow), a m ost wônderful cab, w ith a n
im m ense prancing cab-horse, was seen to stop at the door o f th e
hotel, and P a t the w aiter tum bling into the room swiftly w ith a card
in his hand, says, “ Sir, the gentlem an o f this card is wâiting fo r yo u
at the door.” Mon dieu / it w as an invitation to d in n e r ! and I alm ost
leapt into the arms o f the man in the ca b — so delightful wâs it to find
a friend in a place where, a m om ent before, I had been as lo n e ly as
R o bin son Crusoe.
T h e o n ly draw'back, perhaps, to pure happiness, w hen rid in g in
such a gorgeous equipage as this, wâs that w e could n ot d rive up
R egen t Street, and m eet a few creditors, or acquaintances a t le a s t
H ow ever, Pat, I thought, was exceed in gly awe-stricken b y m y disap
pearance in this v e h ic le ; w hich had evidently, too, a con siderable
effect upon som e other wâiters at the “ Shelburne,” w ith w hom I was
n ot as yet so familiar. T h e m ouldy cam elopard at the T rin ity C o lle g e
M usayum ” was scarcely taller than the bay-horse in the c a b ; the
groom behind was o f a corresponding sm allness. T h e cab w as o f
a lo ve ly olive-green, p icked out w hite, high on high
springs an d
enorm ous w heels, w hich, b ig as th ey w ere, scarcely seem ed to to u ch
the earth. T h e little tiger swung gracefully up and dow n, h o ld in g on
b y the hood, w hich was o f the m aterial o f w hich the m ost precious
a n d polished boots are m ade.
A s for the
lining— but here w'e com e
too near the sanctity o f private l i f e : suffice that there wâs a k in d
A H OSPITABLE RECEPTION.
19
frien d inside, w ho (though b y no m eans o f the fairy sort) was as
w elco m e as an y fairy in th e finest ch a rio t
W
had seen m e
la n d in g from the p ack et that m orning, and was the very man w ho in
L o n d o n , a m onth previous, had recom m ended m e to the “ Shelburne/’
T h e s e facts are not o f m uch con sequence to the public, to be sure,
e x c e p t that an explanation was necessary o f the m iraculous appearance
o f th e ca b and horse.
O u r course, as m ay b e im agined, w as towsurds the s e a sid e ; for
w hither else should an Irishm an at this season g o ? N o t far from
K in g sto w n is a house d evo ted to the purpose o f fe s tiv ity : it is called
S a lt H ill, stands upon a rising ground, com m anding a fine view o f the
b a y an d the railroad, and is k e p t b y persons bearing the celebrated
n am e o f L ovegrove;
I t is in fact a sea-Greenwich, and though
th ere are no m arine w hitebait, other fishes are to b e had in plenty,
a n d esp ecially the fam o u s.B ra y trout, w hich does not ill deserve its
reputation .
H e re we m et three yo u n g naen, w ho m a y b e called b y the nam es
o f their several counties— ^Mr. G alw ay, M r. R oscom m on , and M r.
C l a r e ; and it seem ed that I was to com plain o f solitude no lo n g e r: for
o n e straightw ay invited m e to his county, w here was the finest salmonfishing in the w o r ld ; asiother said he would drive m e through the
c o u n ty K e rry in his four-in-hapd d r a g ; and the third had some pro
p osition s o f sport equally hospitable. A s for go in g down to some
races, on the Curragh o f K ild a re I think, w hich were to be held on
th e n ext and the three follow ing :4ays, there seem ed to b e no question
a b o u t that. T h a t a man should ;pjiss a race, w ithin forty miles, seem ed
to b e a p oint never contem plated b y these jo via l sporting fellows.
Strollin g about in the neighbourhood before dinner, w e went dow n
to the seashore, and to som e caves w hich had lately been discovered
th e r e ; and two Irish ladies, w ho were standing at the entrance o f one
o f them , perm itted m e to take the following portraits, w hich were pro
n o u n ced to b e p retty accurate.
T h e y said they had n ot acquiesced in the general T em perance
m ovem ent that had taken p lace throughout the c o u n try ; and, indeed,
i f the truth m ust b e know n, it w as o n ly under prom ise o f a glass o f
w hisky a p iece that their m odesty could b e so far overcom e as to
perm it them to sit for their portraits. B y the tim e they w ere done, a
crow d o f bo th sexes h ad gathered round, and expressed them selves
quite ready to sit upon the sam e terms. B ut though there was great
20
variety in their countenances, there was not m uch b e a u ty ; an d
besides, dinner was b y this tim e ready, w hich has at certain p eriod s a
charm even greater than a r t
T h e bay, w hich had been veiled in m ist and grey in the m orning,
was now shining under the m ost beautiful clear sky, w hich presently
becam e rich with a thousand gorgeous hues o f sunset. T h e view w as
as sm iling and delightful a one as can be co n ceived ,— just such a one
as should b e seen d travers a go o d d in ner; with n o fatiguing sublim ity
or awful beauty in it, but brisk, brilliant, sunny, enlivening. In feet,
in p lacing his banqueting-house here, M r. Ix)vegrove had, as usual, a
brilliant idea.
Y o u m ust n ot have too m uch view, o r a severe one, to
A DINNER A T LOVEGROVKS.
21
g iv e a relish to a go o d dinner ; nor too m uch m usic, nor too quick,
n o r to o slow, nor too loud.
reader who has dined at a tabU-dhbte
in G erm an y w ill kn ow the annoyance o f th is: a set o f m usicians
im m ediately at your b a ck w ill som etim es p lay you a m elancholy
p o lo n a ise ; and a m an with a good ear must perforce eat in tim e, an d
y o u r soup is quite co ld before it is swallowed. T h en , all o f a sudden,
crash go es a brisk gallop ! and yo u are o bliged to gulp your victuals
a t th e rate o f ten m iles an hour. A n d in respect o f conversation
during a g o o d dinner, the sam e rules o f propriety should be consulted.
D e e p and sublim e talk is as im proper as sublim e prospects. D a n te
and cham pagne (I w as go in g to say M ilton and oysters, but that is a
pun) are quite unfit them es o f dinner-talk. L e t it b e light, brisk, not
oppressive to the brain. O u r conversation was, I recollect, ju st the
thing. W e talked about the last D erb y the w hole time, and the state
o f the o dds for the St. L e g e r ; nor was the A sc o t C u p fo rg o tte n ; and
a b e t or tv\'0 w as gaily booked.
M ean w h ile the sky, w'hich had been blue and then red, assum ed,
towârds the horizon, as the red w as sinking under it, a gen tle, delicate
cast o f green. H o w th H ill becam e o f a darker purple, and the sails
o f th e boats rather dim . T h e sea grew deep er and deeper in colour.
T h e lam ps at the railroad dotted the line with f ir e ; and the ligh t
ho u ses o f the b a y began to flame. T h e trains to 2nd from the city
ru shed flashing and hissing by. In a w ord, everybody said it w as
tim e to ligh t a c ig a r ; w hicli was done, the conversation about the
D e rb y still continuing.
“ P u t out that can dle,” said R oscom m on to Clare.
T h is the
la tte r in stantly did b y flinging the taper out o f the w indow upon the
law n , w hich is a th o ro u gh fa re; and where a great laugh arose am ong
h a lf a score o f beggar-boys, w ho had been under the w indow for
so m e tim e past, rep eated ly requesting the com pan y to throw out six
p en ce b etw een them.
T w o other sporting youn g fellow s had now jo in e d the c o m p a n y ;
a n d as b y this tim e claret began to have rather a m aw kish taste,
w hisky-and-w ater was ordered, w hich w as drunk upon the perron
b e fo re the house, w hither the w hole party adjourned, and w here for
m a n y hours w e delightfully tossed for sixp en ces— a n oble and fasci
n atin g s p o r t N o r w ould these rem arkable events h ave been narrated,
h a d I n o t received express perm ission from the gen tlem en o f the
p a rty to reco rd all that was said and done.
W h o kn ow s but, a thou
22
sand years hence, som e antiquary or historian m ay find a m o ral in
this description o f the am usem ent o f the British youth a t the p resen t
enlightened tim e ?
HOT LOBSTER.
p .s .— Y o u
take a lobster, about three feet lo n g i f p o ssib le ,
rem ove the shell, cut o r break the flesh o f the fish in pieces n o t to o
small.
Som e one else m eanwhile m akes a m ixture o f m ustard,
vinegar, catsup, and lots o f cayen ne pepper.
Y o u p ro d u ce a
m achine called a despatchery w hich has a spirit-lamp under it th at is
usually illum inated w ith w hisky. T h e lobster, the sauce, an d n ear
h a lf a pound o f butter are p laced in the despatcher, w hich is inuned iately closed. W ie n boiling, the m ixture is stirred up, the lo b ster
b e in g sure to heave about in the pan in a convulsive manner, w hile
it em its a rem arkably rich and agreeable odour through the apart
m ent. A glass and a h a lf o f sherry is now throwm into the pan , and
the contents served out hot, and eaten b y the com pany. P o rter is
com m on ly drunk, and w hisky-punch afterwards, and the dish is fit
for an emperor.
N .B .— Y o u are recom m ended not to hurry yo u rself in gettin g up
th e n ext m orning, and m ay take soda-water w ith advantage.—
batum est.
Pro-
(
23
)
C H A P T E R II.
A COUNTRY-HOUSE IN
KILDARE— SKETCHES OF AN
IRISH
FAMILY
AND FARM.
I t h a d been settled am ong m y friends, I d o n ’t kn ow for w hat parti
c u la r reason, that the A gricultural Show at C o rk w as an exhibition I
w a s sp ecia lly bound to see.
W hen, therefore, a gentlem an to whom
I h a d bro u gh t a letter o f introduction kin d ly offered m e a seat in his
carriage, w hich was to travel b y short days’ journ eys to that city, I
to o k a n abrupt farewell o f P a t the waiter, and som e other friends in
D u b li n : proposing to renew our acquaintance, how ever, upon som e
future d a y.
W e started then one fine afternoon on th e road from D u b lin
t o N a as, w hich is the m ain southern road from the capital to
M u n ster, and m et, in the course o f the ride o f a score o f miles, a
d o z e n o f coaches very heavily loaded, and bringing passengers to the
c ity .
T h e exit from D u blin this w ay is n ot m uch m ore elegant than
th e o utlet b y w ay o f K in g s to w n : for though the great branches o f
th e city appear flourishing enough as yet, the sm all outer ones are in
a sad state o f decay.
H ouses drop o ff here and there, and dw indle
w o fiilly in s i z e ; w e are go t into the back-prem ises o f the seem ingly
prosperous place, and it looks m iserable, careless, and deserted. W e
p assed through a street w hich was thriving once, but has fallen since
in to a sort o f decay, to ju d g e o u tw ard ly,— St. T h o m as’ S tre e t
E m m ett w as han ged in the m idst o f i t
A n d on pursuing the lin e o f
street, and crossing the G reat C an al, yo u com e presently to a fine tall
square buildin g in the outskirts o f the town, w hich is no m ore nor less
th a n K ilm ain h am G ao l, or C astle. P o o r E m m ett is the Irish darling
s till— his history is on every book-stall in the city, and yonder trimlo o k in g b rick gao l a spot w here Irishm en m ay g o and pray. M an y a
m artyr o f theirs has appeared an d d ied in front o f it,— found gu ilty o f
“ w e a r ily o f the green.”
T h e re m ust b e a fine view from the ga o l w indow s, for w e presently
co m e to a great stretch o f brilliant green country, leavin g the D u b lin
h ills lyin g to the left, picturesque in their outline, and o f w o n d e rfu l
24
colour.
I t seems to m e to be quite a different colour to tliat in
E n gland— different-shaped clouds— different shadows and lights. T h e
country is w ell tilled, well p e o p le d ; the hay-harvest on the gro u n d ,
and the people taking advantage o f the sunshine to gather it i n ; but
in spite o f everything,— green m eadow s, w hite villages and sunshine,
— the p lace has a sort o f sadness in the look o f it.
T h e first towm w e passed, as appears by reference to the G u id e
book, is the little town o f R a th c o o le ; but in the space o f three d a y s
R a th co o le has disappeared from m y m em ory, with the excep tio n o f
a little low buildin g w hich the village contains, and w here a re th e
quarters o f the Irish constabulary. N o th in g can be finer than th e
trim, orderly, and soldierlike appearance o f this splendid corps o f m en.
O n e has glim pses all alon g the road o f num erous gen tlem en ’s
places, lookin g extensive and prosperous, o f a few m ills b y stream s
here and th e r e ; but though the streams run still, the m ill-w heels are
idle for the ch ie f p a r t ; and the road passes m ore than o n e lo n g lo w
village, lookin g bare and poor, but neat and w hitew 'ashed: it seem s
as if the inhabitants w ere determ ined to put a decen t lo o k upon their
poverty. O n e or two villages there w ere evidently appertain ing to
gentlem en’s seats ; these are sm art enough, esp ecially that o f J ohnstown, near L ord M a y o ’s fine dom ain, where the houses are o f the
G o th ic sort, with pretty porches, creepers, and railings. N o b le p urp le
hills to the left and right k eep up, as it w^re, an accom pan im en t to
the road.
A s for the towm o f N aas, the first after D u blin that I h ave seen,
w hat can b e said o f it but that it lo o ks poor, m ean, and y et som ehow
cheerful ? T h e re was a little bustle in the sm all shops, a few cars
w ere jin glin g alon g the broadest street o f the tow n— som e sort o f
dan d ies and m ilitary in dividuals w ere lo llin g about right an d l e f t ;
and I saw a fine court-house, w here the assizes o f K ild a re co u n ty
are held.
B ut b y far the finest, and I think the most extensive edifice in
N aas, was a haystack in the inn-yard, the proprietor o f w bich did n ot
fail to m ake m e rem ark its size and splendour. I t w as o f such
dim ensions as to strike a co ck n e y w ith respect and p le a s u re ; and
here standing ju st as the new crops w ere com in g in, told a tale o f
opulen t thrift and go o d husbandry. A re there m any m ore such h a y
stacks, I w onder, in Ire la n d ? T h e crops alon g the road s e e m ^
healthy, though rather li g h t : w heat and oats plen ty, and esp ecially
F IR ST SYM PTOM S OF JYANT
25
flo u rish in g; h ay and clo ver not so g o o d ; and turnips (let the im
portant rem ark be taken at its full value) alm ost entirely w'anting.
T h e little town, as they ca ll it, o f K ilcu lle n , tum bles dow n a hill
and struggles up a n o th e r ; the tw o bein g here picturesquely divided
b y the L iffey, over w hich go es an antique bridge.
It boasts, m ore
o ver, o f a portion o f an a b b ey wall, and a piece o f round tower, both
on the hill summit, and to b e seen (says the G uide-book) for m any
m iles round. H e re w e saw the first public evidences o f the distress
o f th e country. T h e re was no trade in the little p lace, and but few
p e o p le to b e seen, excep t a crow d round a m eal-shop, w here m eal is
d istributed once a w eek by the neighbouring gentry. T h e re m ust
h ave been som e hundreds o f persons w aiting about the d o o r s ; w om en
fo r the m ost p a r t : som e o f their children w ere to be found loitering
a b o u t the bridge m uch farther up the s t r e e t : but it w as curious to
n ote, am ongst these un deniably starving people, how h ealthy their
lo o k s w ere. G o in g a little farther we saw w'omen pulling w eeds and
n ettles in the hedges, on w’hich dism al sustenance the poor creatures
live, havin g no bread, no potatoes, no w ork. W ell I these wom en did
n o t lo o k thinner or more unhealthy than m any a well-fed person. A
co m p a n y o f E n glish lawyers, now', lo o k m ore cadaverous than these
starvin g creatures.
Stretchin g aw ay from K ilcu lle n bridge, for a coup le o f m iles or
m ore, near the fine house and plantations o f the L ato u ch e fam ily, is
to b e seen a m uch prettier sight, I think, than the finest park and
m ansion in the world. T h is is a tract o f excessively green land,
d o tted o ver w'ith brilliant w hite cottages, each wdth its couple o f trim
a cre s o f garden, w'here you see th ick potato-ridges covered w itii
b lossom , great blue plots o f com fortable cabbages and such pleasant
p lan ts o f the poor m an’s garden. T w o or three years since, the land
w a s a m arshy com m on, w hich had n ever since the days o f the D eluge
fe d an y b ein g b igger than a snipe, and into w hich the poor peop le
d escen d ed , draining and cultivatin g and rescuing the marsh from the
w a ter, and raising their cabins and setting up their little inclosures o f
tw o o r three acres upon the land w hich they had thus created.
“ M a n y o f ’em has passed m onths in ja il for that,” said m y inform ant
(a groom on the back seat o f m y host’s p h a e to n ): for it appears that
ce rta in gentlem en in the neighbourhood looked upon the titles o f these
n e w colon ists with som e jealousy, and w'ould have been glad to depose
d i e m ; b u t there w ere som e b etter philosophers am ong the surrounding
THE IRISH SKETCH BOOK.
26
gentry, w ho advised that instead o f discouraging the settlers it w ou ld
b e best to help them ; and the con sequence has been , that there are
now tw o hundred flourishing little hom esteads upon this rescued lan d ,
and as m any fam ilies in com fort and plenty.
Just at the confines o f this p retty rustic rep ublic, our p leasan t
afternoon’s drive e n d e d ; and I must begin this tour witli a m onstrous
breach o f confidence, b y first describin g what I saw.
W ell, then, w e drove through a neat lodge-gate, w ith n o ston e
lions or supporters, but riding w ell on its hinges, and lo o k in g fresh
and w h it e ; and passed b y a lodge, n ot G oth ic, but d ecorated w ith
flowers and evergreens, with clean window s, and a sound slate r o o f ;
and then w ent o ver a trim road, through a few acres o f grass, a d o rn ed
w ith p len ty o f youn g firs and other healthy trees, under w hich w ere
feeding a dozen o f fine cow s or more. T h e road led up to a house,
or rather a congregation o f room s, built seem ingly to suit the oivner’s
convenience, and increasing with his increasing wealth, or w him , or
fam ily. T h is latter is as plentiful as everything else about the p la c e ;
and as the arrows increased, the good-natured, lu ck y father has been
forced to m ultiply the quivers.
F irst cam e out a youn g gentlem an, the heir o f the house, w ho, after
greeting his papa, began exam ining the horses w ith m uch in te re s t;
whilst three or four servants, quite neat and w ell dressed, and, w onderful
to say, w ithout an y talking, began to o ccu p y them selves w ith the
carriage, the passengers, and the trunks. M eanw hile, the ow n er o f
the house had go n e into the hall, w hich is snugly furnished as a
m om ing-room , and w here one, tw o, three yo u n g ladies cam e in to
greet him.
T h e youn g ladies havin g co n cluded their em braces, per
form ed (as I am boun d to say from experience, b oth in L o n d o n and
Paris,) som e very appropriate and w ell-finished curtsies to the strangers
arriving. A n d these three yo u n g persons w ere presently su cceed ed b y
som e still younger, w ho cam e w ithout a n y curtsies at a ll; but, b o u n d in g
and jum ping, and shouting out *‘ P a p a ” at the top o f their v o ic e s ,
th e y fell forthw ith upon that w orthy gentlem an’s person, ta k in g
possession this o f his knees, that o f his arms, that o f his w hiskers, a s
fan cy or taste m ight dictate.
“ A re there any m ore o f you ? ” says he, with perfect g o o d -h u m o u r;
and, in fact, it appeared that there w ere som e m ore in th e nursery, a s
w e subsequently had occasion to see.
W ell, this large h ap py fam ily are lo d ged in a house than w h ich
A WATERFORD EPISODE.
27
a p re ttie r or m ore com fortable is n ot to b e seen even in E n g la n d ; o f
th e furniture o f w hich it m ay be in con fiden ce said, that each article
is o n ly m ade to answ er one puqôse:— thus, that chairs are never
c a lled u p on to exercise the versatility o f their genius b y propping up
w in d o w s ; that chests o f drawers are n ot o bliged to m ove their
u n w ie ld y persons in order to act as lo ck s to d o o r s ; that the window s
are n o t variegated b y paper, or adorned w ith wafers, as in other places
w h ich I h ave seen : in fact, that the p lace is ju st as com fortable as a
p la ce ca n be.
A n d if these com forts and rem iniscences o f three days’ date are
enlarged upon at som e length, the reason is sim ply t h is :— this is
written at w hat is supposed to b e the best inn at one o f the best towns
o f Irela n d , W aterford. D in n er is ju st o v e r ; it is assize-w eek, and the
tabU-(fAble w as surrounded for the ch ie f part b y E n glish attorneys—
the cy o u n cillo rs (as the bar are p ertin aciously called) din ing upstairs
in private. W ell, on go in g to the p u b lic room and bein g abou t to
lay d o w n m y hat on the sideboard, I w as o bliged to pause— out o f
r ^ a r d to a fine thick co a t o f dust w hich had been kin d ly left to
gather for som e days past I should think, and w hich it seem ed a
sham e to displace. Y o n d e r is a chair basking q u ietly in the sun
shine ; som e round o b ject has eviden tly reposed upon it (a hat or
p late p ro bably), for yo u see a clear circle o f b la ck horsehair in the
m id d le o f th e chair, and dust a ll round it.
N o t one o f those dirty
nap kin s that the four waiters carry, w ould w ipe aw ay the grim e from
th e ch air, and take to itself a little dust m o r e ! T h e peop le in
th e ro o m are shouting out for the w aiters, w ho cry, “ Y e s , kir,”
p eevish ly, and don ’t c o m e ; b ut stand baw ling and jan glin g, and
c a llin g e ach other nam es, a t the sideboard. T h e dinner is plentiful
an d n asty — raw ducks, raw pease, on a crum pled tablecloth , o ver w hich
a w aiter has ju st spirted a pint o f obstreperous cider. T h e w indow s
are op en , to g iv e free view o f a crow d o f old beggar-w om en, and o f a
fd lo w p layin g a cursed Irish pipe.
P resen tly this d electable apart
m en t fills w ith ch o k in g p ea t-sm o k e ; and on asking w hat is the cause
o f th is agreeable ad d ition to the pleasures o f the p la ce , yo u are told
th at th ey are lightin g a fire in a back-room .
W h y should lightin g a fire in a back-room fill a w hole enorm ous
h o u se w ith s m o k e ? W h y should four waiters stand and jaw and
gesticu late am ong them selves, instead o f w aiting on the g u e s ts ?
W h y should d u ck s b e raw, and dust lie quiet in p laces w here a
28
hundred p eople pass daily ? A ll these points m ake one th in k ver}'
regretfully o f neat, pleasant, com fortable, prosperous H
tow n,
where the m eat was co o ked , and the room s were clean , a n d the
servants didn’t talk. N o r need it be said here, that it is as ch e a p to
have a house clean as dirty, and that a raw leg o f m utton costs
e xactly the sam e sum as one cuit i\ point. A n d b y this m oral earnestly
hoping that all Ireland m ay profit, let us go b a ck to H
sights to be seen there.
, a n d the
'Fhere is no n eed to particularize the chairs and tables an y farther,
nor to say w hat sort o f conversation and claret wê h a d ; n or to set
dow n the dishes served at dinner. I f an Irish gentlem an does not
g ive you a m ore hearty w elcom e than an E nglishm an, at least he has
a m ore hearty m anner o f w elcom ing y o u ; an d w hile the latter reserves
his fun and hum our (if he possess those qualities) for his p articular
friends, the form er is ready to laugh and talk his best w ith all the
w orld, and give w ay entirely to his m ood. A n d it w ould be a g o o d
opportunity here for a man w ho is clever at philosophizing to exp oun d
various theories upon the m odes o f hospitality practised in various
parts o f Europe. In a coup le o f hours’ talk, an Englishm an w ill giv e
you his notions on trade, politics, the c r o p s ; the last run w ith the
hounds, or the w e a th e r: it requires a long sitting, and a bo ttle o f w ine
at the least, to induce him to laugh cordially, or to speak unreser\''edly;
and if you jo k e with him before you know him, he will assu red ly set
you dow n as a low im pertinent fellow\ In tw o hours, and o v e r a
pipe, a G erm an w ill be quite read y to let loose the easy flood gates o f
his sentim ent, and confide to you m any o f the secrets o f his soft h e a r t
In tw o hours a Frenchm an w ill say a hundred and tw en ty sm art,
witty, brilliant, false things, and will care for you as m uch then a s h e
w ould i f you saw him every day for tw en ty years— that is, n o t on e
single stra w ; and in two hours an Irishm an w ill have allo w ed his
jo via l hum our to unbutton, and gam bolled and frolicked to his heart’s
c o n te n t W hich o f these, putting Monsieur out o f the question, w ill
stand b y his friend w ith the m ost constancy, and m aintain his steady
wish to serve him ? T h a t is a question w'hich the E n glishm an (and I
think w ith a little o f his ordinary co o l assum ption) is disposed to
d ecid e in his own fa v o u r; but it is clear that for a stranger the Irish
w ays are the pleasantest, for here he is at once m ade h a p p y an d at
h o m e ; or at ease rather : for hom e is a strong word, and im plies m uch
m ore than a n y stranger can exp ect, o r even desire to claim .
A HOME SCENE.
29
N o th in g could b e m ore delightful to witness than the evident
a ffe ctio n w hich the children and parents bore to one another,
a n d the cheerfulness and happiness o f their fam ily-parties.
The
fa th e r o f one lad w ent w ith a party o f his friends and fam ily on
a pleasure-party, in a handsom e coach-and-four.
T h e little fellow
sa t on the coach-box and p layed w ith the w hip very w istfully for
so m e tim e : the sun w'as shining, the horses cam e out in bright
harness, w ith glistening coats ; one o f the girls brought a geranium to
s tick in papa’s button-hole, w ho was to drive. But although there
w a s room in the coach, and though papa said he should go if he
lik e d , and though the lad longed to go— as w ho w ouldn’t ? — he
ju m p ed o ff the box, and said he w ould n ot g o : m am m a w ould like
him to stop at hom e and keep his sister c o m p a n y ; and so dow n he
w en t lik e a hero. D o es this story appear trivial to an y one w ho reads
i t ? I f so, he is a pom pous fellow , w hose opinion is not w orth
th e h a v in g ; or he has no children o f his own ; or he has forgotten
th e day w hen he was a child h im s e lf; or he has never repented o f the
surly selfishness with w hich he treated brothers and sisters, after
th e habit o f youn g English gentlem en.
“ T h a t’s a list that uncle keeps o f his children,” said the sam e
y o u n g fellow , seeing his uncle reading a p a p e r ; and to understand
this jo k e , it must b e rem em bered that the children o f the gentlem an
ca lled un cle cam e into the breakfast-room b y half-dozens. “ T h a t’s a
rum fellow ,” said the eldest o f these latter to me, as his father w ent
out o f the room , evidently thinking his papa was the greatest w it and
w o n d er in the w hole world. A n d a great merit, as it appeared to me,
on the part o f these w orthy parents was, that they consented not only to
m ake, b u t to take jo k e s from their youn g o n e s : nor was the parental
authority in the least w eakened b y this kin d familiar intercourse.
A w ord w ith regard to the ladies so far. T h o se I h ave seen
app ear to the full as well educated and refined, and far m ore frank
and cordial, than the generality o f the fair creatures on the other side
o f the C h a n n e l I have not heard anything about poetry, to b e sure,
an d in o n ly one house have seen an album ; but I have heard som e
capital m usic, o f an excellen t fam ily sort— that sort w hich is used,
nam ely, to set youn g p eop le dancing, which they have done m errily
for som e nights. In respect o f drinking, am ong the gentry teetotalism
does not, thank heaven ! as yet appear to p re v a il; but although the
claret has been invariably good, there has been no im proper use o f
30
it.* L e t all English be recom m ended to b e very careful o f w h isk y ,
w hich experience teaches to be a very deleterious drink. N a tiv es say
that it is wholesom e, and m ay b e som etim es seen to use it w ith
im p u n ity ; but the w hisky-fever is naturally m ore fatal to strangers
than inhabitants o f the country ; and w hereas an Irishm an w ill som e
tim es im bibe a half-dozen tum blers o f the poison, two glasses w ill b e
often found to cause headaches, heartburns, and fevers to a p erso n
n ew ly arrived in the country. T h e said w hisky is alw ays to b e
had for the asking, but is not p roduced at the betterm ost sort o f tables.
B efore setting out on our second day’s journ ey, we had tim e to
acco m p an y the well-pleased ow ner o f H
tow n over som e o f his
fields and out-premises. N o r can there b e a pleasanter sight to ow n er
or stranger. M r. P
farms four hundred acres o f land ab ou t his
h o u s e ; and em ploys on this estate no less than a hundred a n d ten
persons. H e says there is full w ork for every one o f t h e m ; a n d to
see the elaborate state o f cultivation in w hich the land was, it is easy
to understand how such an agricultural regim ent w ere em ployed. T h e
e state is like a well-ordered garden : w e w alked into a hu ge field o f
potatoes, and the landlord m ade us rem ark that there was n o t a single
w eed betw een the fu rro w s; and the w hole form ed a vast flow er-bed
o f a score o f acres.
E ve ry b it o f land up to the hedge-side w as ferti
lised and full o f produce : the space left for the plough havin g after
w ards been go n e over, and yield in g its fullest proportion o f “ f i n i t ”
In a tum ip-field w ere a score or m ore o f w om en and children, w ho
w ere m arching through the ridges, rem oving the youn g plants w here
tw o or three had gro^^m together, and leavin g only the m ost healthy.
E v e ry individual root in the field was thus the ob ject o f cu ltu re ; a n d
the ow ner said that this extrem e cultivation answ ered his purpose, a n d
that the em ploym ent o f all these hands, (the w om en and children earn
6 d. and 8^/. a day all the year round,) w hich gain ed him som e reputa
tion as a philanthropist, brought him profit as a farm ef t o o ; fo r his
crops were the best that land could produce. H e has further th e
advantage o f a large stock for manure, and does everything for th e
land w hich art can do.
H e re w e saw several experim ents in m an u rin g; an a cre o f turnips
prepared w ith b o n e -d u s t; another w ith
M urray’s C o m p o sitio n ,”
♦ T h e o n ly in sta n ces o f in to x ica tio n th at I h a v e h eard o f as y e t, h a v e b e e n o n
th e p a rt o f tw o “ c y o u n c illo rs ,” u n d e n ia b ly d ru n k a n d n o isy y e s te r d a y a fte r th e
b a r d in n er a t W a te rfo rd .
A K ILD ARE FARM.
31
whereof I do not pretend to know the ingredients; another with a
new manure called guano. As far as turnips and a first year’s crop
went, the guano carried the day. The plants on the guano acre
looked to be three weeks in advance of their neighbours, and were
extremely plentiful and healthy. I went to see this field two months
after the above passage was wTitten: the guano acre still kept the
lead; the bone-dust ran guano very hard; and composition was
clearly distanced.
B eh in d the house is a fine village o f c o m and hayricks, and a
street o f out-buildings, w here all the w ork o f the farm is prepared.
H e re w ere num erous peop le com ing with pails for butterm ilk, w hich
th e good-natured landlord m ade o ver to them. A score o f men or
m ore w ere busied about the p la c e ; som e at a grindstone, others at a
forge— other fellow s busied in the cart-houses and stables, all o f w hich
w ere a s n ea tly kep t as in the best farm in E ngland. A little further
on w as a flower-garden, a kitchen-garden, a hot-house ju st building,
a k e n n e l o f fine pointers and s e tte r s ;— indeed a n oble feature o f
co u n try neatness, thrift, and plenty.
W e w'ent in to the cottages and gardens o f several o f Mr. P
’s
lab ou rers, w hich w ere all so neat that I could not help fan cyin g
th e y w ere pet cottages erected under the landlord’s ow n superinten
d en ce, an d ornam ented to his order. B ut he declared tliat it w as not
so ; that th e o n ly benefit his labourers go t from him w as constant
w ork, a n d a house re n t-free ; and that the neatness o f the gardens
a n d dw ellin gs was o f their own doing. B y m aking them a present o f
th e house, he said, he m ade them a present o f the p ig and live stock,
w ith w h ich alm ost every Irish cotter pays his rent, so that each w ork
m an c o u ld have a b it o f m eat for his s u p p o r t w o u l d that all
labou rers in the em pire had as m uch ! W ith regard to the neatness
o f the houses, the best w ay to ensure this, he said, was for the
m aster con stan tly to visit them — to aw aken as m uch em ulation as he
co u ld am ongst the cottagers, so that each should m ake his p lace as
g o o d as his neighbour’s— and to take them good-hum ouredly to task
i f th e y failed in the requisite care.
A n d so this p leasant day’s visit ended. A m ore practical person
w ou ld h a ve seen, n o doubt, and understood m uch m ore than a m ere
citize n could, w hose pursuits have been very different from those
n o b le a n d useful ones here spoken of. B ut a m an has n o call to b e
a ju d g e o f turnips or live stock, in order to adm ire such an establish-
32
m ent as this, and heartily to appreciate the excellen ce o f it
are som e happy organisations in the w orld w hich possess
virtue o f prosperity. It^ im plies cheerfulness, sim plicity, shi
perseverance, honesty, go o d health.
See how , before t
hum oured resolution o f such characters, ill-luck gives way.
tune assumes their ow n sm iling c o m p le x io n ! Such men
w ithout driving a single hard b a rg a in ; their condition being
others prosper alon g with them selves. T h u s, his very charit]
inform ant tells m e, is one o f the causes o f m y host’s good
H e m ight have three pounds a year from each o f forty cotl
instead prefers a hundred healthy w orkm en ; or he migh
fourth o f the num ber o f w w k m en , and a farm yield in g a
proportionately le s s ; but instead o f saving the m on ey o f th(
prefers a farm the produce o f which, as I have heard from
man whom I take to b e go o d authority, is unequalled elsewl
Besides the cottages, w e visited a pretty school, where
o f an exceed in g sm allness were at their w ork,— the childn
C ath o lic peasantry. T h e few Protestants o f the district do r
the national-school, nor learn their alph abet or their multi
table in com pan y with their little R om an C ath o lic brethr
clergym an, w ho lives hard b y the gate o f H
towm, in hi;
nication with his parishioners cann ot fail to see how m uch
relieved and how m uch good is done b y his n eig h b o u r; bi
the tw o gentlem en are on go o d terms, the clergym an m\l i
bread with his C ath o lic fellow -Christian. T h e re can be nc
hope, in m entioning this fact, as it is rather a public than
m a tte r ; and, unfortunately, it is only a stranger that is sur
such a circum stance, w hich is quite fam iliar to resideni
country.
T h e re are C a tliolic inns and Protestant inns in th
C ath o lic coaches and Protestant coaches on the r o a d s ; n;
N orth, I have since heard o f a H ig h C h urch co ach and a L o
co a ch adopted b y travelling Christians o f either party.
(
33
CH APTER
)
III.
FROM CARLOW TO WATERFORD.
The next m orning b e in g fixed for the com m encem ent o f our journ ey
towards W aterford, a carriage m ade its appearance in due tim e before
the hall-door: an am ateur stage-coach, w ith four fine horses, that were
to cany us to C o rk. T h e crew o f the “ d rag,” for the present, co n
sisted of tw o youn g ladies, and tw o w ho w ill n ot b e old, please
heaven! for these thirty y e a rs ; three gentlem en w hose co llected
weights m ight am ount to fifty-four s to n e ; and one o f sm aller propor
tions, being as y e t o n ly tw elve years old : to these w ere added a
couple o f groom s and a lady’s-maid.
Subsequen tly w e to o k in a
dozen or so m ore passengers, w ho d id not seem in the slightest degree
to inconvenience the co ach or the h o rse s ; and thus was form ed a
tolerably num erous and m erry party. T h e governor to o k the reins,
with his geranium in his button-hole, and the p lace on the b o x w as
quarrelled for w ithout ceasing, and taken b y turns.
Our day’s jo u rn ey lay through a country m ore picturesque, though
hy no means so prosperous and well cultivated as the district through
which we h ad passed on our drive from D ublin. T h is trip carried us
through the coun ty o f C arlo w and the town o f that n a m e : a w retched
piace enough, w ith a fine court-house, and a couple o f fine c h u rc h e s :
the Protestant church a n oble structure, and the C a th o lic cathedral
said to be b u ilt after som e co n tin en tal m odel. T h e C ath o lics p oint
to the structure w ith -considerable pride : it wâs the first, I believe, o f
the many handsom e cathedrals for their wôrship w hich h ave been
huilt of late years in this coun try b y the n oble contributions o f the
poor man’s penny, and b y the untiring energies and sacrifices o f the
ôrgy.
Bishop D o y le, the founder o f the church, has the p lace o f
honour within i t ; nor, perhaps, did an y Christian pastor ever m erit
the affection o f his flo ck m ore than that great and high-m inded m an.
He was the best cham pion the C a th o lic C h urch and cause ever
had in Ireland : in learning, and adm irable kindness and virtue, the
host example to the clergy o f his r e lig io n : and i f the coun try is n o w
hhed with schools, w here the hum blest peasant in it can h ave th e
3
34
benefit o f a liberal and w holesom e education, it owes this great b o o n
m ainly to his n oble exertions, and to the spirit w hich th ey a w a k en ed .
A s for the architecture o f the cathedral, I d o n ot fan cy a p ro
fessional man w ould find m uch to praise in i t ; it seem s to m e o v e r
loaded with ornam ents, nor were its innum erable spires and p in n acles
the m ore pleasing to the eye because som e o f them w ere out o f th e
perpendicular. T h e interior is quite plain, n ot to say b are a n d
unfinished.
M an y o f the chapels in the coun try that I h a ve sin ce
seen are in a sim ilar c o n d itio n ; for w hen the walls are once raised,
the enthusiasm o f the subscribers to the buildin g seem s som ew hat
characteristically to grow cool, and you enter at a p orch that w ould
suit a palace, w ith an interior scarcely m ore decorated than a bam .
A w ide large floor, som e confession-boxes against the b la n k walls
here and there, w ith som e hum ble pictures at the “ stations,” a n d the
statue, under a m ean ca n o p y o f red w oollen stuff, w ere th e chief
furniture o f the cathedral.
T h e severe hom ely features o f the go o d bishop w ere n o t very
favourable subjects for M r. H o g a n ’s c h is e l; but a figure o f prostrate,
w eeping Irelan d, kn eelin g b y the prelate’s side, and for w hom h e is
im ploring protection, has m uch beauty. In the chap els o f D u blin
and C o rk som e o f this artist’s w orks m ay b e seen, and his countrym en
are exceed in gly proud o f him.
C o n n ected with the C a th o lic cathedral is a large tum ble-dowhlo o kin g divinity c o lle g e : there are upw ards o f a hundred students
here, and the co llege is licensed to give degrees in arts as w ell as
d iv in ity ; at least so the officer o f the church said, as h e show ed us
the p lace through the bars o f the sacristy-windows, in w h ich apart
m ent m ay b e seen sundry crosses, a pastoral letter o f D r. D o y le , and
a num ber o f ecclesiastical vestm ents fom ied o f laces, poplins, and
velvets, handsom ely laced with gold. I'h e re is a co n ven t b y the side
o f the cathedral, and, o f course, a parcel o f beggars all abdut, an d
indeed all over the tow n, profuse in their prayers an d in vo ca tio n s o f
the L o rd , and w hining flatteries o f the persons w hom th ey address.
O n e w retched old tottering hag began w hining the L o rd ’s P r a y e r as
a p ro o f o f her sincerity, and blundered in the very m idst o f it, a n d
left us thoroughly disgusted after the very first sentence.
I t w as m arket-day in the town, w hich is to lerably full o f p o orlo o k in g shops, the streets b ein g thronged with donkey-carts, a n d
p eo p le eager to barter their sm all wares.
H e re and there w e re
LEIGH LJN BRIDGE.
35
picture-stalls, w ith huge hideous-coloured engravings o f the Saints
an d in d ee d the o bjects o f barter upon the banks o f the clear bright
riv er B arrow seem ed scarcely to b e o f m ore value than the articles
w h ich ch a n ge hands, as one reads of, in a town o f A frican huts and
traders on the banks o f the Q uorra, Perhaps the very bustle and
cheerfulness o f the people served only, to a Ix)ndoner’s eyes, to m ake
it lo o k the m ore m iserable. It seem s as if they had no right to be
e ager a b o u t such a parcel o f w retched rags and trifles as w'ere exposed
to sale.
T h e re are som e old towers o f a castle here, lo o kin g finely from
the river ; and near the town is a grand m odern residence belon gin g
to C o lo n e l Bruen, w ith an oak-park on one side o f the road, and a
deer-park on the other. T h e se retainers o f the C o lo n el’s la y in their
rushy-green inclosures, in great num bers and seem ingly in flourishing
con dition .
T h e road from C arlow to L eigh lin Bridge is exceed in gly b e a u tifu l:
n o b le purp le hills rising on either side, and the broad silver Barrow
flo w in g through rich m eadow s o f that astonishing verdure w hich is
only to b e seen in this country. H e re and there w'as a country-house,
o r a tall m ill b y a stream-side : but the latter buildings w ere for the
m ost p art em pty, the gaunt w indow s gap in g w ithout glass, and their
great w heels idle. L eigh lin Bridge, lyin g up and dow n a hill b y the
river, con tain s a considerable num ber o f pom pous-looking warehouses,
th at lo o k ed for the m ost part to b e doin g no m ore business than the
m ills on the C arlo w road, but stood b y the roadside staring at the
co a ch as it w'ere, and basking in the sun, swaggering, idle, insolvent,
a n d out-at-elbows. T h e re are one or two very pretty, m odest, com
fortable-lookin g country-places about L eigh lin Bridge, and on the
road th en ce to a m iserable villa ge ca lled the R o y a l O ak , a b eggarly
sort o f bustling place.
H e re stands a dilapidated hotel and p o stin g-h ou se: and indeed
on every road, as yet, I have been astonished at the great m ovem ent
an d s t i r ;— the old co ach es b ein g in variably cram m ed, cars jin g lin g
ab ou t equ ally full, an d no w ant o f gentlem en’s carriages to exercise
th e horses o f the “ R o y a l O a k ” and sim ilar establishm ents. In the
tim e o f the rebellion, the landlord o f this “ R o y a l O a k ,” a great
ch a ra cter in those parts, w as a fierce U n ited Irishm an. O n e d a y it
h ap pen ed that Sir John A n d erso n cam e to the inn, and was eager for
horses on.
T h e landlord, w ho kn ew Sir John to b e a T o ry , vo w ed
36
THE IRISH SK E TCH BO O K
and swore he had no horses ; that the ju d g es had the last g o in g to
K ilk e n n y ; that the yeom anry had carried o ff the best o f them ; that
he could n ot give a horse for lo ve or m oney. “ P o o r L o rd E d w a r d ! ”
said Sir John, sinking dow n in a chair, and claspin g his hands, “ m y
p oor dear m isguided friend, and must you die for the loss o f a few
hours and the want o f a pair o f horses ? ”
“ L o rd W/iat 1 ” says the landlord.
“ L o rd Edw ard F itzgerald ,” replied Sir John. “ T h e G o vern m en t
has seized his papers, and g o t scent o f his hiding-place. I f I can ’t
get to him before two hours, Sirr w ill h ave him .”
“ M y dear Sir Joh n,” cried the landlord, “ it’s not tw o h o rses but
it’s eight I ’ll giv e you, and m ay the ju d g es g o han g for m e I H ere,
L a r r y ! T i m ! First and second pair for Sir John A n d erso n ; and
lo n g life to you. Sir John, and the L o rd reward you for y o u r good
deed this day 1 ”
Sir John, m y inform ant told me, had invented this predicam ent
o f L o rd E d w ard ’s in order to ge t the h o r s e s ; and b y w a y o f
corroborating the w hole stor>% pointed out an old chaise w h ich stood
a t the inn-door with its w indow broken, a great crevice in the panel,
som e little w retches craw ling underneath the w heels, and tw o huge
blackguards lolling against the pole. “ A n d that,” says he, “ is no
doubt the very postchaise Sir John A nderson had.”
I t certain ly
lo o ked ancient enough.
O f course, as w e stopped for a m om ent in the place, troop s o f
slatternly, ruffianly-looking fellow s assem bled round the carriage, dirty
heads p eeped out o f all the dirty window s, beggars cam e forward
with a jo k e and a i>rayer, and troops o f children raised th eir shouts
and halloos. I confess, w ith regard to the beggars, that I h a v e n ever
yet had the slightest sentim ent o f com passion for the v e ry o ld est or
dirtiest o f them, or been inclined to give them a p e n n y : th e y co m e
craw ling round you with lying prayers and loathsom e com plim ents,
that m ake the stom ach turn ; they do n ot even disguise that th e y are
lie s ; for, refuse them , and the w retches turn o ff w ith a la u gh an d
a jo k e , a m iserable grinning cynicism that creates distrust and indiffer
ence, and must be, one w ould think, the very best w ay to clo se the
purse, not to open it, for objects so unworthy.
H o w do a ll these peop le live ? one can ’t help w o n d e rin g ;— th ese
multifarious vagabonds, w ithout w ork or w orkhouse, or m ean s o f
subsistence ?
T h e Irish P o o r L a w R e p o rt sa>^ that there are tw e lve
A COUNTRY-HOUSE,
37
hundred thousand p eop le in Irelan d — a sixth o f the population— w ho
have n o m eans o f livelih o o d but charity, and w hom the State, or
individual m em bers o f it, m ust m aintain. H o w can the State support
such a n enorm ous b u rd e n ; or the tw elve hundred thousand be
supported ? W h at a strange history it w ould b e, co u ld one but get it
true,— that o f the m anner in w hich a score o f these beggars have
m aintained them selves for a fortnight p a s t !
S o o n after quitting the “ R o y a l O a k ,” our road branches o ff to the
hosp itable house w here our party, con sistin g o f a dozen persons, w as
to b e housed and fed for the night. F a n cy the lo o k w hich an E nglish
gentlem an o f m oderate m eans w ould assum e, a t bein g called on to
receive such a c o m p a n y ! A p retty road o f a couple o f m iles, th ickly
growTi w ith ash and o ak trees, under w hich the hats o f coachpassengers suffered som e' danger, leads to the house o f D
. A
yo u n g son o f the house, on a w hite pony, w as on the look-out, and
great cheering and shouting took p lace am ong the yo u n g p eople as w e
cam e in s ig h t
T ro ttin g aw ay b y the carriage-side, h e brou ght us through a gate
with a pretty avenue o f trees leadin g to the pleasure-grounds o f the
h o u se — a handsom e building com m and ing n ob le view s o f river,
m oun tain s, and plantations. O u r entertainer only rents the p l a c e ;
s o I m ay say, without any im putation against him, that the house was
b y n o m eans so handsom e within as w ithout,— not that the w ant o f
finish in the interior m ade our party the less m erry, or the h ost’s
entertain m en t less hearty and cordial.
T h e gentlem an w ho b u ilt and o^vns the house, like m any other
prop rietors in Ireland, found his m ansion too expensive for his
m ean s, and has relinquished it. I asked w hat his in com e m ight be,
a n d n o w on der that he w as com p elled to resign his house ; w hich a
m an wdth four tim es the in com e in E n gland w ould scarcely venture
to in habit. T h e re were num erous sitting-room s b e lo w ; a large suite
o f room s ab ove, in w hich our large party, w ith their servants, dis
a p p eared w ithout an y seem ing in conven ien ce, and w hich already
acco m m o d a ted a fam ily o f at least a dozen persons, and a num erous
train o f dom estics. T h e re w as a great court-yard surrounded b y
ca p ita l offices, w ith stablin g and coach-houses sufficient for a halfd o zen o f coun try gentlem en.
A n E nglish squire o f ten thousand a
y e a r m ight live in such a p lace— the original owner, I am to ld , had
n o t m any m ore hundreds.
38
O ur host has w isely turned the c h ie f part o f the pleasure-ground
round the house into a fa r m ; nor did the land lo o k a b it the w orse,
as I thought, for havin g rich crops o f p otatoes grow in g in p la c e o f
grass, and fine plots o f w aving w heat and barley. T h e care, sk ill, a n d
neatness everyw here exhibited, and the im m ense luxuriance o f th e
crops, could not fail to strike even a c o c k n e y ; and one o f our p arty,
a very well-known, practical farmer, told m e that there w as a t lea st
five hundred pounds’ w orth o f produce upon the little estate o f som e
sixty acres, o f w liich o n ly five-and-twenty were under the p lou gh.
A s at H
town, on the previous day, several "men and w om en
appeared sauntering in the grounds, and as the m aster cam e u p ,
ask ed for w ork, or sixpence, or told a story o f w a n t T h e re are
lodge-gates at both ends o f the d e m e s n e ; but it appears the goodnatured practice o f the coun try adm its a beggar as w ell as a n y o th e r
visitor. T o a couple our landlord g a v e m oney, to another a little jo b
o f w o r k ; another he sent roughly out o f the p re m ise s: an d I co u ld
ju d g e thus w hat a continual tax upon the Irish gen tlem an th ese
travelling paupers m ust be, o f w hom his ground is n ever free.
T h ere, loitering abou t the stables and out-houses, w ere several
p eo p le who seem ed to have acquired a sort o f right to b e there r
HANGERS-ON.
39
wom en an d children w ho had a claim upon the b u tte r m ilk ; m en
who d id an o d d jo b now and t h e n ; loose hangers-on o f the fa m ily :
and in the lodging-houses and inns I h ave entered, the sam e sort o f
ragged vassals are to b e f o u n d ; in a house how ever poor, you are
sure to see som e poorer dependant w ho is a stranger, taking a m eal
o f p o tato es in the kitchen ; a T im or M ike loitering hard by, ready
to run on a m essage, or carry a bag. T h is is written, for instance, at
a lo d gin g o ver a shop at C o rk. T h e re sits in the shop a p o or old
fellow quite past w ork, but w ho totters up and dow n stairs to the
lodgers, an d does w hat little he can for his easily w on bread. T h e re
is another fellow outside w ho is sure to m ake his bo w to a n yb o d y
issuing from the lodging, and ask if his honour wants an errand done ?
N either class o f such dependants exist w ith us.
in L o n d o n is there will
nothing, or encourage
shuffling, sm iling c a d ?
N o r d id M r. M
w hen , after a great deal
W h at housekeeper
feed an o ld m an o f seven ty that’s go o d for
such a disreputable hanger-on as yo n d er
’s ‘ ‘ irregu lars” disappear with the d a y ; for
o f merrim ent, and kind, hap py dancin g and
ro m p in g o f youn g people, the fineness o f the n ight suggested the pro
p rie ty o f sm oking a certain cigar (it is n ever m ore a ccep tab le than a t
th a t season), the yo u n g squire vo ted that w e should adjourn to the
stab le s for the purpose, where a cco rd in gly the cigars w ere discussed.
T h e r e w ere still the in evitable half-do zen h a n gers-o n : one cam e
grin n in g with a lantern, all nature b ein g in universal blackn ess excep t
h is grinn in g f a c e ; another ran obsequiously to the stables to show a
favo u rite m are— I think it w as a m are— though it m ay have been a
m u le, an d your hum ble servant n ot m uch the wiser. T h e cloths w ere
ta k en o f f ; the fellow s w ith the candles crow ded a b o u t ; and the
y o u n g squire bade m e adm ire the beauty o f her fore-leg, w hich I did
w ith the greatest possible gravity. “ D id you ever see such a fo re-leg
as that in your life ? ” says the youn g squire, and further discoursed
upon the. horse’s points, the am ateur groom s jo in in g in chorus.
T h e re w as another yo u n g squire o f our party, a pleasant g e n tle
m an lik e yo u n g fellow , w ho d anced as p rettily as an y F renchm an, and
w ho had ridden over from a neighbouring h o u s e : as I w en t to bed,
the tw o lads were arguing w''hether youn g Squire B
should g o hom e
o r stay at D
that night. T h e re w as a bed for him — there w as a
b e d for everybo d y, it seem ed, and a kin d w elcom e too.
H ow
d ifferen t was all this to the w^ys o f a severe E n glish house !
40
N e x t m orning the w hole o f our m erry party assem bled round a
long, jo via l breakfast-table, stored w ith all sorts o f go o d things ; and
the biggest and jo vialest m an o f all, w ho had ju st com e in fresh from
a w alk in the fields, and vow ed that he w as as hungry as a hunter,
and was cutting som e slices out o f an in viting ham on the side-table,
suddenly let fall his knife and fork w ith dism ay. “ Sure, Joh n, don’t
you kn ow it’s F r id a y ? ” cried a lad y from the t a b le ; and b a ck John
cam e wuth a m ost lugubrious queer lo o k on his jo lly face, an d fell to
w ork upon bread-and-butter, as resigned as possible, am idst no sm all
laughter, as m ay b e w ell im agined. O n this I w as boun d, as a P ro
testant, to eat a large slice o f pork, and discharged that duty n obly,
an d with m uch self-sacrifice.
T h e fam ous “ drag ” w hich had brought us so far, seem ed to b e as
hospitable and elastic as the house w hich w e now left, for the co a ch
accom m odated, inside and out, a considerable party from the h o u s e ;
and we to o k our road leisurely, in a cloudless, scorching d ay, tow ards
W aterford. T h e first p lace w e passed through was the little towm o f
G owran, near wffiich is a grand, w'ell-ordered park, belon gin g to L o rd
C lifden, and wffiere his m other resides, with w hose beautiful face, in
L aw ren ce’s pictures, every reader m ust be familiar. T h e kin d E n glish
la d y has done the greatest go o d in the neighbourhood, it is said, and
the little towm bears m arks o f her beneficen ce, in its neatness, prettiness,
and order. C lo se b y the church there are the ruins o f a fine o ld
a b b e y here, and a still finer one a few m iles on, at Thom astow n, m ost
picturesquely situated am idst trees and m eadow , on the river N o re.
T h e p lace within, how ever, is dirty and ruinous— the sam e w retch ed
suburbs, the same squalid congregation o f b egga rly loungers, that are
to b e seen elsewhere. T h e m onastic ruin is very fine, and the road
hence to T hom astow n rich wnth varied cultivation and b eautiful
verdure, pretty gentlem en’s m ansions shining am ong the trees on
either side o f the w ay. T h e re was one p lace alon g this rich tract th at
lo o ked very strange and gh astly— a hu ge old pair o f gate pillars,
flanked b y a ruinous lodge, and a w ide road w inding for a m ile u p a
hill. T h e re had been a park once, but all the trees w ere g o n e ; thistles
were grow ing in the yello w sickly land, and ran k thin grass o n the
road. F a r aw ay you saw in this desolate tract a ruin o f a h o u s e :
m any a butt o f claret has been em ptied there, no doubt, and m an y a
m erry party com e out with hound and horn. B ut w hat strikes the
Englishm an with w onder is n ot so m uch, perhaps, that an ow n er o f
BALLYH A LE.
41
the place should have been ruined and a spendthrift, as that the land
should lie there useless ever since. I f one is not successful w ith us
another m an will be, o r another w ill try, at least. H e re lies useless
a great cap ital o f hundreds o f acres o f l a n d ; barren, w here th e
commonest effort m ight m ake it p roductive, and lo o kin g as i f for a
quarter o f a century past no soul ever lo o ked or cared for i t
You
might travel five hundred m iles through E n glan d and n ot see such a
spectacle.
A short distan ce from T h o m asto w n is another a b b ey ; and
presently, after passing through the village o f K n o ck to p h er, w e cam e
to a posting-place called B allyh ale, o f the moral asp ect o f w hich the
fo llo w in g scrap taken in the p lace w ill g iv e a notion.
A d irty, old, con ten ted, decrepit id ler was lollin g in the sun at a
shop-door, and hundreds o f the popu lation o f the dirty, old, decrepit,
co n te n te d p lace were em p lo yed in the lik e w'ay.
A dozen o f b o ys
w ere p layin g at pitch-and-toss ; other m ale and fem ale beggars were
sittin g o n a w all lo o k in g into a stream ; scores o f ragamuffins, o f
co urse, round the ca rria g e; a n d ’ beggars galore at the d o o r o f the
little ale-h o u se or hotel. A gen tlem an ’s carriage chan ged horses as
w e w ere baitin g here.
I t w as a rich sight to see the cattle, and the
42
w ay o f starting th e m : “ H a llo o ! Y o o p
h o o p ! ” a dozen ragged
ostlers and am ateurs running b y the side o f the m iserable old horses,
the p ostilion shrieking, yellin g, and belabouring them w ith his w hip.
D o w n go es one horse am ong the new-laid stones ; the postilion has
him up w ith a cut o f the whip and a curse, and takes advantage o f the
start caused b y the stum ble to get the brute into a gallop, and to go
douTi the hill. “ I kn ow it for a fact,” a gentlem an o f our p arty says,
“ that no horses ei^cr go t out o f E allyh ale w ithout an accid en t o f
som e kin d .”
“ W ill
a m an o f
breeder.
upon m y
your honour like to com e and see a b ig pig ? ” here asked
the above gentlem an, w ell know n as a grea t farm er and
W e all w ent to see the b ig pig, n ot very fat as yet, but,
w ord, it is as b ig as a pony. T h e coun try round is, it
appears, fam ous for the breed ing o f such, esp ecially a district ca lled
the W elsh m ountains, through w hich w e had to pass on our road to
W aterford.
T h is is a curious coun try to see, and has curious inhabitants : for
tw en ty m iles there is no gen tlem an ’s house : gentlem en dare not live
there. T h e p lace >vas originally tenanted b y a clan o f W e ls h e s ;
hence its nam e ; and they m aintain them selves in their o ccu p a n cy
o f the farms in T ip p era ry fashion, b y sim ply puttin g a ball into the
b o d y o f an y man w ho w ould com e to take a farm over any one o f
them.
Som e o f the crops in the fields o f the W elsh coun try seem ed
very good, and the fields wêll tilled ; but it is com m on to see, b y the
side o f one field that is w’ell cultivated, another that is absolutely
b a r r e n ; and the w hole tract is extrem ely w retched. A pp rop riate
histories and rem iniscences a cco m pan y the tra v e lle r: at a chapel near
M ullin avat is the spot w here sixteen p olicem en w ere m urdered in th e
tithe-cam paign ; farther on you com e to a lim ekiln, w here the gu ard
o f a m ail-coach w as seized and roasted alive. I saw here the first
hedge-school I h ave s e e n : a crow d o f half-savage-looking lads and
girls lo o ked up from their studies in the d itch, their co llege or lectureroom b ein g in a m ud cabin hard by.
A n d likew ise, in the m idst o f this w ild tract, a fellow m et us w ho
w as trudging the road w ith a fish-basket o ver his shoulder, and w h o
stopped the coach, hailing tw o o f the gen tlem en in it b y nam e, bo th
o f whom seem ed to b e m uch am used b y his hum our. H e w as a
handsom e rogue, a poacher, or salm on-taker, b y profession, and
presently poured out such a flood o f oaths, and m ade such a
A VOLUBLE ROGUE.
43
m o n stro u s d isp lay o f grinning w it and blackguardism , as I h ave n ever
h eard e q u alled b y the best B illingsgate practitioner, and as it w ould
b e m o re than useless to attem pt to describe. Blessings, jo k e s, and
cu rses trolled o ff the rascal’s lips w ith a vo lu bility w hich caused his
Irish a u d ien ce to shout w ith laughter, but w hich w ere quite beyon d a
co ck n e y .
It was a hum our so purely national as to b e understood
b y n o n e but natives, I should think. I reco llect the sam e feeling o f
p erp le x ity w hile sitting, the o n ly E nglishm an, in a com p an y o f jo cu la r
Scotch m en .
T h e y bandied about puns, jo k e s, im itations, and
ap p lau d ed w ith shrieks o f laughter what, I confess, appeared to m e
th e m ost abom inable dulness ; nor was the salm on-taker’s jo cu larity
an y better. I think it rather served to frighten than to a m u s e ; and
I am n o t sure b u t that I lo o ked out for a band o f jo cu la r cut-throats
o f this sort to com e up at a given guffaw, and p layfully rob us all
round.
H o w ev er, he w ent aw ay quite peaceably, callin g down for
the p arty the benediction o f a great num ber o f saints, who must have
been som ew h at asham ed to b e addressed b y such a rascal.
P re se n tly w e caught sight o f the va lley through w hich the Suir
flows, a n d descen d ed the hill towards it, and went over the thundering
old w o o d e n brid ge to W aterford.
44
TH E I r i s h s k e t c h b o o k .
CH APTER
IV .
FROM WATERFORD TO CORK.
T h e view o f the town from the bridge and the heights a b o v e it is
v ery im p o sin g; as is the river both ways. V e r y large vessels sail up
alm ost to the doors o f the houses, and the quays are flan ked b y tall
red w arehouses, that lo o k at a little distance as if a w orld o f business
m ight be doin g w ithin them. But as you get into the place, not a soul
is there to greet you, exce p t the usual so ciety o f b eggars, and a sailor
or twOy o r a green-coated policem an sauntering dow n th e broad p av e
m ent. W e drove up to the “ C o a ch In n ,” a huge, handsom e, d irty
building, o f w hich the discom forts have been p ath etically described
elsewhere. T h e landlord is a gentlem an and con siderable horseproprietor, and though a p erfectly w ell-bred, active, and in telligent
m an, far too m uch o f a gen tlem an to p lay the host w e ll : at least as an
Englishm an understands that character.
O pp osite the tow n is a tow er o f questionable anti(iuity and
undeniable u g lin e s s ; for though the inscription says it was built in
the year one thousand and som ething, the sam e docum ent adds that
it was rebuilt in 18 19 — to either o f w hich dates the traveller is thus
w elcom ed. T h e quays stretch for a con siderable distan ce alon g the
river, poor, patched-w indow ed, m ouldy-looking shops form ing the
basem ent-storey o f m ost o f the houses. W e w ent into one, a jew eller’s,
to m ake a purchase— it m ight have been o f a go ld w atch for anythin g
the ow ner kn ew ; b ut he was talking with a friend in his back-parlour,
gave us a lo o k as w e entered, allow ed us to stand som e m inutes in
the em pty shop, and at length to w alk out w ithout b ein g served. In
another shop a b o y was lo llin g behind a counter, but co u ld n ot say
whether the articles w e w anted w ere to b e h a d ; turned out a heap o f
drawers, and co u ld n ot find them ; an d finally w en t for the m aster,
w ho could n ot com e. T ru e com m ercial independence, and an easy
w ay enough o f life.
In one o f the streets leadin g from the q u ay is a large, d in gy
C a th o lic chapel, o f som e pretensions w ithin ; but, as usual, there h ad
WATERFORD.
45
been a fiiilure for w ant o f m oney, and the front o f tlie chap el was
unfinished, p resen tin g th e butt-end o f a portico, and w alls on w hich
the sto n e co a tin g was to b e laid. B ut a m uch finer ornam ent to the
church than a n y o f the questionable gew gaw s w bich adorned the
ceilin g w a s the piety, stem , sim ple, and unaffected, o f the people
within. T h e ir w hole soul seem ed to be in their prayers, as rich and
p oor k n e lt indifferently on the flags.
T h e re is o f course an episcopal
cath edral, ivell an d n eatly kep t, and a handsom e B ishop’s p a la c e :
near it w as a co n ven t o f nuns, and a little chapel-bell clin kin g
m elod iou sly. I was prepared to fan cy som ething rom antic o f the
p la c e ; b u t as w e passed the co n ven t gate, a shoeless slattern o f a
m aid o p en ed th e door— the m ost dirty and un poetical o f house
m aids.
A ssize s w ere held in the town, and w e ascen ded to the court
house through a steep street, a sort o f rag-fair, but m ore villanous
and m iserable than a h y rag-fair in S t G iles’s : the houses and stock
o f th e Seven D ia ls lo o k as i f th ey belo n ged to capitalists w hen com
p ared w ith the scarecrow w retchedness o f the goods here hung out
fo r sale.'^^^ ’W ho w anted to b u y such th in g s? I wôndered.
O ne
would'hsW e thought that the m ost part o f the articles had passed the
possibilitjr o f b arter for m oney, even out o f the reach o f the halffarthings. coin ed o f late.
A ll the street w'as lined with w retched
hu cksters tind ytiieir m erchandise o f gooseberries, green apples,
children ’s d irty cakes, ch eap crockeries, brushes, and tin w a re ;
a m o n g w hkih o b jects th e p eo p le w ere swarm ing abou t busily.
B efore tlfe c o iu t is a w ide street, w here a sim ilar m arket wâs held,
w ith a vast n um ber o f donkey-carts urged hither and thither, and great
shriekin g, chattering, and bustle. I t is five hundred years ago since
a p o et w ho accom pan ied R ich ard I I . in his vo yage hither sp ok e o f
“ Watrcforde ou moult vilaine et ordc y sont la gcnteA T h e y don ’t
seem to b e m uch changed now , b ut rem ain faithful to their ancient
habits.
A b o u t the court house swarm s o f beggars o f course w ere col- •
Iccted, varied b y personages o f a better s o r t : grey-coated farmers,
and w om en w ith their picturesque b lu e cloaks, w ho had trudged
in from th e coun try probably. T h e court-house is as b eggarly and
ruinous a s the rest o f th e n eigh bourh ood ; sm art-looking policem en
kep t o rd e r a b o u t it, an d lo o k ed very hard at m e as I ventured to
take a sk e tch .
46
The
figures as I
saw them
w ere accu rately I S * so dis
posed. T h e m an in the d o ck ,
the
policem an
seated
easily
ab o v e him, the w om an lo o kin g
dow n from a gallery.
T h e man
was accused o f stealing a sack o f
w ool, and, havin g no counsel,
m ade for h im self as adroit a
d efen ce as an y one o f the coun- | f
sellors (they are w ithout robes
or w igs here, b y the w ay,) could
have m ade for him. H e had
b een seen exam ining a certain
sack o f w ool in a coffee-shop at
D ungarvan, and n ext d ay was
caught sight o f in W aterford
M arket, standing under an arch
w ay from the rain, w ith the sack
b y his side.
“ W asn’t there tw'enty other
p eop le under the arch ? ” said he
to aw itness, a n oble-looking beau
tiful girl— the girl was obliged to
own there were. “ D id you see m e
touch the w ool, or stand nearer
to it than a dozen o f the d acen t
p eop le there ? ” and the girl co n
fessed she had not. “ A n d this it
is, m y lo rd,” says he to the bench, “ they attack m e because I am p oor
and ragged, but th e y never think o f charging the crim e on a rich farm er.”
B ut alas for the defen ce ! another w itness saw the prisoner w'ith
. his legs round the sack, and bein g about to charge him with the theft,
the prisoner fled into the arms o f a policem an, to w hom his first w ords
w ere, “ I kn ow noth ing abou t the sack.” So, as the sack had been
stolen, as he had been seen han dling it four m inutes before it w as
stolen , and holdin g it for sale the d a y after, it was co n clu d ed that
P a trick M a lo n y had stolen the sack, and he was accom m odated w ith
eighteen m onths accordingly.
THE COURT-HOUSE.
47
In an o th er case w e had a w om an and her child on the t a b le ; and
others follo w ed , in the ju d gm en t o f w hich it was im possible not to
adm ire th e extrem e leniency, acuteness, and sensibility o f the ju d g e
p resid in g, C h ie f Justice Pennefather :— the man against whom all the
L ib e ra ls in Irelan d, and every one else w ho has read his charge too,
m ust b e angry, for the ferocity o f his charge against a Belfast news
p ap er editor. It seem s as if no parties here will be dispassionate when
they g e t to a p arty question, and that natural kindness has no claim
w hen W liig and T o r y com e into collision.
T h e w itness is here p laced on a table instead o f a w itn ess-b o x ;
nor w as there m uch farther p ecu liarity to rem ark, excep t in the
dirt o f th e court, the absen ce o f the barristerial w ig and gow n, and
the g re a t co o ln ess vfith. w hich a fellow w ho seem ed a sort o f clerk,
usher, a n d Irish interpreter to the court, recom m ended a prisoner,
w ho w as m akin g rather a long defence, to be quiet. I asked him why
the m an m igh t n ot have his say. “ Sure,” says he, “ he’s said all he
has to say, and there’s no use in any m ore.” But there was no use in
attem ptin g to co n vin ce M r. U sh er that the prisoner v»as best ju d ge on
this p o i n t : in fact the poor d evil shut his mouth at the adm onition,
and w as foun d gu ilty with perfect justice.
A
co n sid erable poor-house has been erected at W aterford, b ut
the b eggars o f the p lace as yet prefer their liberty, and less certain
43
THE IRISH SK E TC H BOOK.
m eans o f gain in g su p p o rt
W e asked one w ho was callin g dow n all
the blessings o f all the saints and angels upon us, and telling a m ost
piteous tale o f poverty, w hy she did not g o to the poor-house. T h e
w om an’s lo o k a t once changed from a sentim ental w hine to a grin.
“ D e y ow e tw o hundred pounds at dat h ouse,” said she, “ and faith,
an honest wom an can ’t g o dere.” W ith w hich w onderful reason ought
n ot the m ost squeam ish to b e content ?
A fte r describing, as accurately as w ords m ay, the features o f a
landscape, and stating that such a m ountain was to the left, and such
a river or town to the right, and p utting dow n the situations and
nam es o f the villages, and the bearings o f the roads, it has n o d o ubt
struck the reader o f b o o ks o f travels that the w riter has n ot given
him the slightest idea o f the country, and that he w ould have been
ju st as wisQ w ithout perusing the letter-press landscape through w hich
he has toiled. I t w ill be as w ell then, under such circum stances, to
spare the p ublic any len gth en ed description o f the road from W a ter
ford to D u n g a r v a n ; w hich was the road w e to o k , follow ed b y
benediction s delivered gratis from the beggarh ood o f the form er city .
N o t ve ry far from it you see the dark plantations o f the m agnificent
dom ain o f Curraghm ore, and pass through a country, blue, hilly, and
bare, excep t w here gentlem en’s seats appear with their ornam ents o f
w ood. Presently, after leavin g W aterford, w e cam e to a certain tow n
called K ilm acthom as, o f w hich all the inform ation I have to g iv e is,
that it is situated upon a hill and river, and that you m ay ch an ge
horses there. T h e road w as co vered w ith carts o f seaw eed, w hich
the p eople w ere brin gin g for m anure frw n the shore som e four m iles
d is t a n t ; and beyo n d K ilm acth o m as w e beheld the C um m eragh
M ountains, “ often nam ed in m aps the N cn n avou lagh ,” either o f w hich
nam es the reader m ay select at pleasure. =
T h e n ce w e cam e to “ C u sh cam ,” at w hich village b e it kn ow n
that the tum pike-m an kep t the drag a ve ry long tim e w aiting.
“ I
thin k the fellow m ust b e w riting a b o o k ,” said the coachm an, w ith a
m ost severe lo o k o f drollery at a co ck n e y tourist, w ho tried, under the
circum stances, to blush, and n ot to laugh. I wish I could relate or
rem em ber h a lf the m ad jo k e s that flew about am ong the jo lly Irish
crew on the to p o f the co a ch , and w hich w ou ld h ave m ade a jo u rn ey
through the D esert jo via l.
W hen the ’pike-m an had finished his
TR A P P IST A N D QUAKER MONKS.
49
co m p o sitio n (that o f a tum p ike-ticket, w hich he had to fill,) w e drove
on to D u n garvan ; the tw o parts o f w hich town, separated b y the
river C o llig a n , h a ve been jo in e d b y a causew ay three hundred yards
along, a n d a brid ge erected at an enorm ous outlay b y the D u k e o f
D evo n sh ire. In form er tim es, before his G ra ce spent his eighty
thousand pounds upon the causew ay, this w ide estuary w as called
“ Dupgar\'an P rospect,” because the ladies o f the country, wâlking
o ver the river at low w ater, took o ff their shoes and stockin g: (such
as had them ), and tuckin g up their clothes, exh ib ited— w hat I have
never seen, and cann ot therefore b e exp ected to describe. A large
and han dsom e C a th o lic chapel, a square w ith som e pretensions to
regularity o f building, a very neat and com fortable inn, and beggars
and id lers still m ore num erous than at W aterford, w ere w hat we had
leisure to rem ark in half-an-hour’s stroll through the town.
N e a r the prettily situated village o f C ap poquin is the T rap p ist
H ouse o f M o u n t M eilleraie, o f w hich w e could o n ly see the pinnacles.
T he brethren w ere presented som e years since with a barren m ountain,
which th e y h ave cultivated m ost successfully. T h e y h ave am ong
them selves w orkm en to supply all their frugal wants : gh o stly tailors
and shoem akers, spiritual gardeners and bakers, w orkin g in silence, and
serving h eaven after their w ay. I f this reverend com m unity, for fear
of the opportu nity o f sinful talk, choose to hold their tongues, the
next thin g w ill be to cut them out altogether, and so render the
danger im p o s s ib le ; if, b ein g m en o f education and intelligence, they
incline to turn butchers and cobblers, and sm other their intellects b y
base an d hard m enial labour, w ho know s but one day a sect m ay be
more p iou s still, and rejectin g even butchery and bakery as savouring
too m u ch o f w orldly co n ven ien ce and pride, take to a w ild-beast life
at o n c e ? L e t us co n ced e that suffering, and m ental and b o d ily
debasem ent, are the things m ost agreeable to heaven, and tliere is
no kn o w in g w here such piety m ay stop. I was very glad w e had not
tim e to see the grovellin g p lace ; and as for seeing shoes m ade o r
fields tilled b y reverend am ateurs, w e can find cobblers and ploughbo ys to do the w ork better.
B y the w ay, the Q uak ers have set up in Irelan d a sort o f m onkery
o f their ovm. N o t far from C arlo w w e m et a coup le o f cars drawn
b y w hite horses, and h o ld in g w hite Q uakers and Q uakeresses, in
w hite hats, clothes, shoes, w ith w ild m aniacal-looking faces, bum ping
along th e road.
L e t us hop e that w e m ay soon get a com m unity o f
4
50
F akeers and how ling D ervishes into the country. It w ould be a
refreshing thing to see such gh o stly m en in one’s travels, standing at
the com ers o f roads and praising the L ord b y standing on one leg,
o r cuttin g and h ackin g them selves with kn ives lik e the prophets o f
Baal. Is it n ot as pious for a man to deprive him self o f his leg as o f
his tongue, and to disfigure his b o d y with the gashes o f a knife, as with
the hideous w hite raim ent o f the illum inated Q uakers ?
W h ile these reflections were go in g on, the beautiful B lackw ater
river suddenly opened before us, and driving alon g it for three m iles
through som e o f the m ost beautiful, rich coun try ever seen, w e cam e
to Lism ore.
N o th in g can b e certain ly m ore m agnificent than this
drive. P arks and rocks covered w ith the grandest fo lia g e ; rich,
handsom e seats o f gen tlem en in the m idst o f fair lawns and beautiful
bright plantations and shm bberies; and at the end, the graceful spire o f
L ism ore church, the prettiest I have seen in, or, I think, out o f Irelan d.
N o r in any coun try that I have visited h a ve I seen a view m ore n o b le
— it is too rich and peaceful to b e w hat is called rom antic, b ut lo fty,
large, and generous, if the term m ay be u s e d ; the river and ba n k s a s
fine as the R h in e ; the castle n ot as large, but as n oble and picturesque
as W arw ick. A s yo u pass the bridge, the banks stretch aw ay o n
eith er side in am azing verdure, and the castle-walks rem ind o n e
som ew hat o f the dear old terrace o f St Germ ains, with its groves,
and lo n g grave avenues o f trees.
T h e salmon-fishery o f the B lackw ater is let, as I hear, for a
thousand a year. In the evening, how ever, w e saw som e gentlem en
w ho are likely to curtail the profits o f the farm er o f the fishery— a
com p an y o f ragged boys, to w it— w hose occupation, it appears, is to
poach. T h e se youn g fellow s w ere all lolling o ver the bridge, as the
m oon rose rather m istily, and pretended to b e d eep ly enam oured o f
the view o f the river. T h e y answ ered the questions o f one o f our
p arty with the utm ost in n ocen ce and openness, and one w ou ld have
supposed the lads were so m any A rcadian s, but for the arrival o f an
o ld wom an, w ho suddenly co m in g up am ong them poured out, upon
o ne and all, a vo lle y o f curses, bo th d eep and loud, sayin g that per
dition w ould be their portion, and callin g them “ sh ch am ers” a t least
a hundred times. M u ch to m y w onder, the yo u n g m en did n ot re p ly
to the volu ble o ld la d y for som e time, w ho then told us the cause o f
h e r anger. She liad a son,— “ L o o k at him there, the villain .” T h e
la d w as standing, lo o kin g very unhappy.
“ H is father, that’s n o w
SALM ONPOACHERS.
51
d e a d , p a id a fistful o f m on ey to bind him ’p rentice at D ungarvan : but
th e se shcham ers follow ed him th e r e ; m ade him break his indentures,
an d g o p o ach in g and thievin g and shcham ing w ith them .” T h e poor
o ld w om an shook her hands in the air, and shouted at the top o f her
d eep v o i c e : there w as som ething very touching in her grotesque
s o rro w ; n or did the lads m ake light o f it at all, con ten tin g them selves
with a surly grow l, or an oath, if d irectly appealed to b y the p oor
creature.
So , cursing and raging, the wom an w ent away. T h e son, a lad
o f fourteen, evid en tly the fag o f the b ig bullies round about him , stood
dism ally aw ay from them , his head sunk dow n. I w ent up and asked
him, “ W a s that his m o th e r? ” H e said, “ Y e s .” “ W as she g o o d
and k in d to him w hen he was at hom e ? ” H e said, “ O h, yes.” “ W h y
not co m e b a ck to her ? ” I asked h im ; b ut he said “ he co u ld n ’t.”
AVhereupon I took his arm, and tried to lead him aw ay b y m ain
f o r c e ; b u t he said, “ T h a n k you, sir, but I can ’t go b a c k ,” and released
his arm . W e stood on the bridge som e m inutes longer, lookin g at the
v ie w ; b ut the bo y, though h e kep t aw ay from his com rades, w ould not
com e. I w on der w hat they have done together, that the poor b o y is
past g o in g hom e ? T h e p lace seem ed to b e so quiet and beautiful, and
far a w ay from L on d o n , that I thought crim e co u ld n ’t have reached i t ;
and y e t here it lurks som ew here am ong six b o y s o f sixteen, each w ith
a stain in his heart, and som e b la ck history to tell. T h e poor w idow ’s
yo n d er w as the o n ly fam ily about w hich I had a chance o f kn ow in g
anything in this rem ote p lace ; nay, in all Ireland : and G o d help us,
hers w as a sad l o t !— A husband go n e dead ,— an o n ly child go n e to
ruin. I t is awful to think that there are eight m illions o f stories to
be to ld in this island. Seven m illion nine hundred and ninety-nine
thousand nine hundred and ninety-eight m ore lives that I, and all
brother co ckn eys, kn ow nothing a b o u t W ell, please G o d , they are
not a ll lik e this.
T h a t day, I heard another history. A little old disreputable man
in tatters, w ith a h u ge steeple o f a hat, cam e sham bling dow n the
street, o n e am ong the five hundred blackguards there. A fellow
stan din g u n d er th e “ Sun ” portico (a sort o f sw aggering, chattering,
cringting touter, and m aster o f cerem onies to the gutter,) told us som e
th in g w ith regard to the old disreputable man. H is son had been
h an ged the d a y before at C lo n m el, for one o f the T ip p e ra ry m urders.
T h a t b la ckgu ard in our eyes instantly lo o k ed quite different from all
52
other b la c k g u a rd s : I saw him gesticulatin g a t the co m e r o f a street,
and w atched him w ith w onderful interest.
T h e church with the handsom e spire, that looks so graceful am ong
the trees, is a cathedral church, and one o f the neatest-kept and
prettiest edifices I h ave seen in Irelan d. In the old graveyard P ro
testants and C ath o lics lie together— that is, n ot to g e th e r; for each
has a side o f the ground w here th ey sleep, and, so o ccup ied, d o
not quarrel. T h e sun was shining dow n upon the brilliant grass—
and I don’t think the shadows o f the Protestant graves were a n y
longer or shorter than those o f the C a th o lic s ? Is it the right o r
the left side o f the graveyard w hich is nearest heaven I w on der ?
L o o k , the sun shines upon bo th alike, “ an d the blue sky b en d s
over a ll.”
R a leig h ’s house is app roached b y a grave o ld avenue, and w ellkep t wall, such as is rare in this c o u n tr y ; and the court o f the castle
within has the solid, com fortable, quiet lo o k, equ ally rare. I t is lik e
one o f our colleges a t O x fo r d : there is a side o f the quadrangle
with pretty ivy-covered g a b le s ; another part o f the square is m ore
m o d e m ; and b y the m ain b o d y o f the castle is a sm all ch a p el
exceed in gly picturesque. T h e interior is n eat and in e x cellen t o r d e r ;
b ut it w as un luckily don e up som e thirty years ago (as I im agine
from the style), before our architects had learned G o th ic, and all tlie
ornam ental w ork is con sequently quite u g ly and out o f keepin g. T h e
church has p robably been arranged b y the sam e hand. In the castle
are som e plainly-furnished cham bers, one or tw o g o o d pictures, and
a couple o f oriel w indow s, the view s from w hich up and dow n the
river are e xceed in gly lovely.
Y o u hear praises o f the D u k e o f
D evon shire as a landlord w herever you g o am ong his vast e s t a te s :
it is a p ity that, with such a n ob le residen ce as this, and w ith such
a w onderful coun try round abou t it, his G ra ce should not in habit
it m ore.
O f the road from L ism ore to F erm o y it does n ot b eh o ve m e to
say m uch, for a peltin g rain cam e on ve ry soon after w e quitted the
form er p lace, an d accom pan ied us alm ost w ithout ceasin g to F e m io y .
H e re w e had a glim pse o f a bridge across the B lackw ater, w hich w e
had skirted in our jo u rn e y from L ism ore.
N o w envelop ed in m ist
and cloud, now spanned b y a rainbow , at another tim e, bask in g
in sunshine. N ature attired the charm ing prospect for us in a score
o f different w a y s ; and it appeared before us like a coquettish b e au ty
FERM OY TO CORK.
53
w ho w as tryin g w hat dress in her w ardrobe m ight m ost b ecom e her.
A t F erm o y w e saw a vast barrack, and an overgrow n inn, w here,
how ever, go o d fare w as p r o v id e d ; and thence hastening cam e b y
R athcorm ack, and W atergrass H ill, fam ous for the residen ce o f
F ath er P ro u t, w hom m y friend the R e v . F ran cis Sylvester has
made im m o rtal; from w hich descen ding we arrived at the b eau
tiful w ooded village o f G lanm ire, with its mills, and steeples, and
streams, and neat school-houses, and pleasant country residences.
T his brings us dow n upon the superb stream w hich leads from the
sea to C o rk.
T h e view for three m iles on both sides is m agnificently beautiful.
Fine gardens, and parks, and villas co ve r the shore on each b a n k ;
the river is full o f brisk craft m ovin g to the city or out to s e a ; and the
city finely ends the view , rising upon tw o hills on eith er side o f the
stream. I d o not kn ow a tow n to w hich there is an entran ce m ore
beautiful, com m odious, and stately.
P assin g b y num berless handsom e lodges, and, nearer the city,
m an y terraces in neat order, the road con ducts us near a large tract
o f som e hundred acres w hich have been reclaim ed from the sea,
a n d are destined to form a park and pleasure-ground for the citizens
o f C o rk . In the river, and up to the bridge, som e hundreds o f ships
wêre l y i n g ; and a fleet o f steam boats opposite the handsom e house
o f the S t G eo rge ’s Steam -P acket Com p any. A church stands prettily
o n th e hill a b o v e it, surrounded b y a num ber o f new habitations v e ry
n ea t and w hite. O n the road is a handsom e R om an C a th o lic ch ap el,
o r a chap el w hich w ill be handsom e so soon as the n ecessary funds
a re raised to com plete i t
But, as at W aterford, the chap el has been
com m en ced, and the m on ey has failed, and the fine p ortico w hich is
to deco rate it one day, as yet o n ly exists on the architect’s paper.
Saint P a trick ’s B rid ge, over w hich w e pass, is a p retty b u ild in g ; and
P a trick Street, tlie m ain street o f the town, has an air o f business and
cheerfulness, and lo o ks densely thronged.
A s the carriage drove up to those neat, com fortable, and extensive
lodgin gs w hich M rs. M a c O ’B o y has to let, a m agnificent m ob was
form ed round the veh icle, and w e had an opportunity o f at once
m akin g acquain tan ce w ith som e o f the dirtiest rascally faces that all
Irelan d presents. B esides these professional rogues and beggars, w ho
m ake a p oin t to attend on all vehicles, every b o d y else seem ed to stop
too, to see that w onder, a co ach and four horses.
P eo p le issued from
54
THE IRISH SKETCH BOO K
their shops, heads appeared at windows. I have seen the Q u ee n
pass in state in L on d o n , and n ot bring together a crow d near so g rea t
as that w hich assem bled in the busiest street o f the second city o f th e
kingdom , ju st to look at a green co ach and four bay-horses. H a v e
th ey n othing else to do ?— or is it that th ey
do nothing but stare,
swagger, and be idle in the streets ?
I
55
)
CHAPTER
V.
CORK— THE AGRICULTURAL SHOW— FATHER MATHEW.
A MAN has no n eed to b e an agriculturist in order to take a warm interest
in the success o f the Irish A gricultural Society, and to see w hat vast go o d
m a y result from it to the country. T h e N ation al E ducation schem e
— a n o b le and liberal one, at least as far as a stranger can see, w hich
m igh t h ave united the Irish peop le, and brought p eace into this m ost
d istracted o f all coun tries— failed un happily o f one o f its greatest ends.
T h e Protestan t clergy have alw ays treated the plan with bitter hostility:
and I do b elieve, in w ithdraw ing from it, have struck the greatest blow
to them selves as a body, and to their own influence in the country,
w h ich has been dealt to them for m any a year. R ich , charitable,
p iou s, w ell-educated, to be found in every parish in Ireland, had they
ch o sen to fraternise w ith the peop le and the plan, they m ight have
d irected the education al m o v e m e n t; they m ight h ave attained the
influence w hich is n ow giv en o ver entirely to the p r ie s t ; and w hen
the present generation, educated in the national-schools, w ere
growm up to m anhood, th ey m ight h ave had an interest in alm ost
ever)' m an in Ireland. A re th ey as pious, and m ore polished, and
b e tte r educated than their neighbours the p riests?
T h e re is no
d oubt o f i t ; and b y constant com m union with the people, they w ou ld
h ave gain ed all the benefits o f the com parison, and advan ced the
interests o f their religion far m ore than now th ey can hope to do.
L o o k at the n atio n a l-sch o o l: throughout the coun try it is com m only
b y the ch ap el side— it is a C a th o lic school, directed and fostered b y
the p rie s t; and as no p eop le are m ore eager for learning, m ore apt to
receive it, or m ore grateful for kindness than the Irish, he gets all the
gratitu d e o f the scholars w ho flock to the school, and all the future
in flu en ce over them , w hich naturally and ju stly com es to him.
The
P ro testan t wants to better the condition o f these p e o p le : he says that
th e w oes o f the coun try are ow ing to its p revalen t r e lig io n ; and in
56
order to carry his plans o f am elioration into effect, he obstin ately
refuses to hold com m union with those whom he is desirous to co n vert
to w hat he believes are sounder principles and purer doctrines.
The
clergym an ^vill reply, that points o f principle prevented h im : w ith
this fatal doctrinal objection , it is not, o f course, the p rovin ce o f a
laym an to m e d d le ; but this is clear, that the parson m ight have had an
influence o ver the country, and he w ould n o t ; that he m ight h ave
rendered the C ath o lic population friendly to him, and he w ould n o t ;
but, instead, has added one cause o f estrangem ent and hostility m ore
to the m any w hich already existed against him.
T h is is one o f the
attem pts at union in Ireland, and one can ’t but think w ith the deep est
regret and sorrow- o f its failure.
Mr. O ’C o n n ell and his friends set go in g another schem e for
advancin g the prosperity o f the country,— the n otable p ro ject o f
hom e m anufactures, and o f a coalition against foreign im portation.
T h is w-as a union certainly, but a union o f a different sort to that
n oble and peaceful one w hich the N ation al E ducatio n B oard pro
posed. It was to punish E n gland, while it pretended to secure the
in dep en dence o f Ireland, b y shutting out our m anufactures from the
Irish m a rk e ts ; w hich were one d ay or other, it w-as presum ed, to be
filled b y native produce.
L arg e bodies o f tradesm en and private
piersons in D u blin and other towns in Irelan d associated together,
vow in g to purchase no articles o f ordinary consum ption or usage but
w hat w ere m anufactured in the countr}\ T h is bigoted, old-w orld
schem e o f restriction— not m uch m ore liberal than Sw ing’s crusade
against the threshing-m achines, or the coalition s in E n gland against
m achinery— failed, as it deserved to do. F o r the benefit o f a few
tradesm en, w ho m ight find their accoun t in selling at dear rates their
clum sy and im perfect m anufactures, it w as found im possible to tax a
p eo p le that are already poor enough ; nor did the p arty take in to
acco u n t the cleverness o f the m erchants across sea, w ho w-ere b y n o
m eans disposed to let go their Irish custom ers. T h e fam ous Irish
frieze uniform w hich was to distinguish these patriots, and w hich
M r. O ’C o n n ell lauded so lo u d ly and so sim ply, cam e over m ade a t
half-price from L ee d s and G lasgow , and w*as retailed as real Irish b y
m any w orthies w ho had been first to jo in the union. Y o u m ay still
see shops here and there w ith their pom pous announcem ent o f “ Irish
M a n u fa ctu res; ” but the schem e is lo n g g o n e to r u in : it co u ld n ot stand
against the vast force o f E nglish and S co tch capital and m achinery,.
TH E AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY.
57
any m o re than the U lster spinning-wheel against the huge factories
and steam -engines w hich one m ay see about Belfast.
T h e schem e o f the A gricultural S o cie ty is a m uch m ore feasible
o n e ; a n d if, please G o d , it can be carried out, likely to give n ot only
prosperity to the country, but union likew ise in a great degree. A s
yet P rotestan ts and C a th o lics con cerned in it h ave w orked w ell
to g e th e r ; and it is a blessin g to see them m eet upon any ground
Avithout heartburning and quarrelling. L a st year, M r. P u rcell, w ho
is w ell kn o w n in Irelan d as the principal m ail-coach con tractor for the
coun try,— w ho h im self em ploys m ore w orkm en in D u blin than perhaps
any oth er person there, and has also m ore land un der cultivation than
most o f the great landed proprietors in the country,— wrote a letter to
the new spapers, givin g his notions o f the fallacy o f the exclusivedealing system , and pointing out at the sam e tim e how he considered
the coun try m ight be benefited— b y agricultural im provem ent, nam ely.
H e sp oke o f the n eglected state o f the country, and its am azing
natural fe r tility ; and, for the benefit o f all, called upon the landlords
and landholders to use their interest and develop its vast agricultural
resources. M anufactures are at best but o f slow growth, and dem and
not o n ly time, b u t c a p it a l; m eanwhile, until the habits o f the p eop le
should grow to b e such as to render m anufactures feasible, there was
a great n eg lected treasure, lyin g under their feet, w hich m ight be the
source o f prosperity to all.
H e poin ted out the superior m ethods o f
husbandry em ployed in Scotlan d and E n glan d, and the great results
obtained upon soils naturally m uch p o o r e r; and, taking the H igh lan d
Society for an exam p le, the establishm ent o f w hich had don e so much
for the prosperity o f Scotlan d, he proposed the form ation in Irelan d
of a sim ilar association.
T h e letter m ade an extraordinary sensation throughout the country.
Noblem en and gentry o f all sides to o k it up ; and num bers o f these
wrote to M r. P u rcell, and ga ve him their cordial adhesion to the
plan. A m eeting w as held, and the S o ciety form ed : subscriptions
were set on foot, head ed b y the L o rd L ieutenant (F ortescue) and the
D u ke o f L ein ster, each w ith a donation o f 200/.; and th e trustees had
soon 5,000/. a t their d is p o s a l: w ith, besides, an annual revenue o f
1,000/. T h e subscribed capital is fu n d ed ; and p olitical subjects strictly
exclu ded. T h e S o ciety has a show yearly in one o f the principal
towns o f I r e la n d : it corresponds w ith the various lo cal agricultural
associations throughout the co u n try; encourages the form ation o f n ew
58
o n e s ; and distributes prizes and rewards.
It has further in con tem
plation, to establish a large A gricultural school for farmers’ s o n s ; and
has form ed in D u b lin an A gricultural B azaar and M useum .
It was the first m eeting o f the S o ciety w hich w e w ere com e to see
a t C ork. W ill it be able to carry its excellen t intentions into effect ?
W ill the present enthusiasm o f its founders and m em bers continue ?
W ill one p olitical party or another get the upper hand in it ? O n e
can ’t help thinking o f these points w ith som e anxiety— o f the la tter
esp ecially : as yet, happily, the clergy o f either side have k ep t aloof,
and the union seems pretty cordial and sincere.
T h e re are in C o rk , as no doubt in every town o f Irelan d suffi
cie n tly considerable to support a p lurality o f hotels, som e esp ecially
d e vo ted to the C o n servative and L iberal parties. T w o dinners were
to be given Apropos o f the A gricultural m e e tin g ; and in order to
con ciliate all parties, it was determ ined that the T o ry landlord should
find the cheap ten-shilling dinner for one thousand, the W h ig land
lord the gen teel guinea dinner for a few select hundreds.
I w ish M r, Cuff, o f the “ Freem asons’ T a v e rn ,” co u ld h ave been
a t C o rk to take a lesson from the latter g e n tle m a n : for he w ould
have seen that there are m eans o f havin g not m erely enough to eat,
but enough o f the very best, for the sum o f a g u in e a ; that persons
can have not only wine, but go o d wine, and if in clined (as som e
topers are on great occasions) to pass to another b o ttle,— a second,
a third, or a fifteenth bottle, for w hat I kn ow is ve ry m uch at their
serv'ice. It was a fine sight to see Mr. M a c D o w all presiding o ver an
ice-well and extracting the bottles o f cham pagne. W ith w hat calm
ness he did i t ! H o w the corks p opped, and the liquor fizzed, an d the
agriculturalists drank the bum pers o ff! A n d how go o d the w ine was
too— the greatest m erit o f all I M r. M a c D o w all did credit to his
liberal politics b y his liberal dinner.
“ Sir,” says a w aiter whom I asked for currant-jelly for the haunch
— (there w ere a dozen such sm oking on various parts o f the table—
th in k o f that, M r. C u ff!)— “ Sir,” says the w aiter, “ there’s n o je lly ,
b u t I ’ve brought you some very fine lobster-satuel' I think this was
the m ost rem arkable speech o f the e v e n in g ; n ot excep tin g that o f m y
L o r d Bernard, w ho, to three hundred gen tlem en m ore o r less con-
THE RIVAL DINNERS.
59
nected w ith farm ing, had actu ally the audacity to quote the w ords o f
the grea t agricultural p oet o f R o m e —
“
O fortunatos nimium m a
Csrc.
H o w lo n g are our statesm en in E n gland to continue to b a ck
their o p in io n s b y the L atin gram m ar ? A re the Irish agriculturalists
so very hap py, if th ey did b ut kn o w it— at least those out o f doors ?
WeD, th o se w ithin w ere jo lly enough. C h am pagn e and claret, turbot
and haun ch, are gifts o f the justissima telluSy w ith w hich few husband
men w ill b e disposed to q u a r r e l:— no m ore let us quarrel either with
eloqu en ce after dinner.
I f the L iberal landlord had shown his principles in his dinner,
the C o n serva tiv e certain ly show ed his ; b y con serving as m uch profit
as p o ssib le for himself. W e sat dow n one thousand to som e two
hundred and fifty cold jo in ts o f m eat. E ve ry man w as treated with a
pint o f w ine, and very b a d too, so that there was the less cause to
grum ble because m ore wâs n ot served. T h o se agriculturalists w ho
had a m ind to drink w hisky-and-w ater had to p ay extra for their
punch. N a y , after shouting in vain for half-an-hour to a w'aiter for
som e co ld water, the unhappy w^riter could o n ly get it b y prom ising a
shilling. T h e sum was paid on d elivery o f the article ; but as every
bo d y round w as thirsty too, I go t but a glassful from the decanter,
w hich o n ly served to m ake m e long for more. T h e w aiter (the
ra s c a l!) prom ised m ore, but n ever cam e near us aftenvards : he had
got his shilling, and so he left us in a hot room , surrounded b y a
thousand h o t fellow -creatures, one o f them m aking a dry speech. T h e
agriculturalists w ere n ot on this occasion nimium fortunati.
T o have heard a noblem an, how ever, w ho discoursed to the m eet
ing, yo u w ould h ave fancied that wx were the luckiest m ortals under the
broiling J u ly sun. H e said he could co n ceive nothing m ore d eligh t
ful than to see, “ on proper occasion s,”— (mind, on proper occasions !)
— “ the landlord m ixin g w ith his tenantry ; and to lo o k around him
at a scene lik e this, and see the condescension w ith w hich the gentry
mingled wdth the farm ers I ” P rodigious co n d escen sio n truly ! T h is
neat sp eech seem ed to m e an oratoric slap on the face to about nine
hundred an d seven ty persons p r e s e n t; and b ein g one o f the latter, I
began to hiss b y wây o f ackn ow ledgm ent o f the com plim ent, and
hoped th at a strong p arty w ould have destroyed the harm ony o f the
evening, an d d o n e likewise. B u t n ot one hereditary bondsm an
6o
-
w ould jo in in the com plim ent— and they were quite right too. T h e
old lord w ho talked abou t con descension is one o f the greatest a n d
kindest landlords in Irelan d. I f he thinks he con descends b y d o in g
his duty and m ixing with m en as g o o d as him self, the fault lies w ith
the latter. \\Tiy are they so ready to go dow n on their k n ees to m y
lord ? A m an can ’t help “ con descendin g ” to another w ho w ill persist
in kissing his shoestrings. T h e y respect rank in E n glan d — the p eo p le
seem alm ost to adore it here.
A s an instance o f the intense veneration for lords w hich distin
guishes this county o f C o rk , I m ay m ention w hat occurred aftenvards.
T h e m em bers o f the C o rk Society gave a dinner to their guests o f the
Irish A gricultural A ssociation . T h e founder o f the latter, as L o rd
D ow nshire stated, was M r. P u r c e ll: and as it w as agreed on all
hands that the So ciety so founded w as likely to prove o f the greatest
benefit to the country, one m ight have supposed that any com plim ent
paid to it m ight have been paid to it through its founder.
N ot
so. T h e S o ciety asked the lords to dine, and M r. P u rcell to m eet
the lords.
A fte r the grand dinner cam e a grand ball, w hich was in deed one
o f the gayest and prettiest sights ever s e e n ; nor was it the less
agreeable, because the ladies o f the city m ixed w ith the ladies from
the countr}^ and vied with them in grace and beauty. T h e charm ing
ga iety and frankness o f the Irish ladies have been n oted and adm ired
b y every foreigner w ho has had the go o d fortune to m ingle in their
s o c ie t y ; and 1 hope it is not detractin g from the m erit o f the upper
classes to say that the low er are n ot a w hit less pleasing. I never
saw in an y coun try such a gen eral grace o f m anner and ladyhood. In
the m idst o f their gaiety, too, it must b e rem em bered that th e y are
the chastest o f w om en, and that no coun try in E urope can b oast o f
such a gen eral purity.
In regard o f the M unster ladies, I had the pleasure to b e p resen t
a t tw o or three evening-parties at C o rk , and must say that th e y seem
to e xcel th e E n glish ladies n ot only in w it and vivacity, b ut in the
still m ore im portant article o f the toilette. T h e y are as w ell dressed
as Frenchw om en , and in com parably h a n d so m e r; and i f ever th is
b o o k reaches a thirtieth edition, and I can find out b etter w ords t o
express adm iration, th e y shall b e inserted here. A m o n g the lad ies’
accom plishm ents, I m ay m ention that I have heard in t>\'0 or th ree
p rivate fam ilies such fine m usic as is rarely to b e m et w ith out o f a
FA TH ER MATI/EIW
6i
capital.
I n one house w e had a supper and songs afterw ards, in the
old h o n est fashion. T im e w as in Irelan d w hen the custom was a
common o n e ; but the w orld grow s languid as it grow s g e n te e l; and
I fan cy it requires m ore than ordinary spirit and courage n ow for a
good o ld gentlem an, at the head o f his kin d fam ily table, to strike up
a g o o d o ld fam ily song.
T h e delightful o ld gen tlem an w ho sung the song here m entioned
could n o t help talk in g o f the T em p era n ce m ovem ent w'ith a sort o f
regret, and said that all the fun had go n e out o f Ireland since F ath er
M ath ew banished the w hisky from i t
In d eed , an y stranger go in g
am ongst the p eo p le can perceive that they are now anytliing but gay.
I h ave seen a great num ber o f crow ds and m eetings o f p eop le in all
parts o f Irelan d, and found them all gloom y. T h e re is n oth ing like
the m erry-m aking one reads o f in the Irish novels. L e v e r and
M axw ell m ust be taken as chroniclers o f the old tim es— the pleasant
but w ron g o ld tim es— for w hich one can ’t help h avin g an antiquarian
fondness.
O n th e d ay we arrived at C o rk, and as the passengers descen ded
from “ th e drag,” a stout, handsom e, honest-looking man, o f som e
two-and-forty years, w as passing by, and received a num ber o f bow s
from th e crow d around.
It wâs
with w h o se face a thousand little print-shop w indow s had already
ren d ered m e familiar. H e shook hands >vith the m aster o f the
ca rriag e v e ry cord ially, and ju st as cord ially w ith the m aster’s coach
m an, a d iscip le o f tem perance, as at least h a lf Irelan d is at p re se n t
T h e d a y after the fam ous dinner at M a c D o w all’s, som e o f us cam e
d o w n rather late, perhaps in co n sequen ce o f the events o f the n ight
be fo re — ( I think it w as L o rd Bernard’s quotation from V irg il, or
e lse th e a bsen ce o f the currant-jelly for the venison, that o ccasion ed
a sligh t head ach e am ong som e o f us, and an extrem e longing for
soda-w ater,)— ând there w as the A p o stle o f T em p era n ce seated at th e
tab le d rin kin g tea. Som e o f us felt a little asham ed o f ourselves,
an d d id n o t lik e to ask som ehow for the soda-water in such an awful
p resen ce as that. B esides, it w ould have been a confession to a
C a th o lic priest, and, as a Protestant, I am ab ove it.
T h e w orld likes to kn o w how a great m an appears even to a
62
THE IRISH SK E TC H BO O K
valet-de-cham bre, and I suppose it is o n e’s va n ity that is flattered in
such rare com pan y to find the great man quite as unassum ing as th e
very sm allest personage p re s e n t; and so like to other m ortals, th a t
w e w ould n ot kn ow him to b e a great m an at all, did w e n ot k n o w
his nam e, and w hat h e had done. T h e re is nothing rem arkable in
M r. M ath ew ’s m anner, excep t that it is exceed in gly sim ple, hearty, and
m anly, and that he does n ot w ear the dow ncast, dem ure lo o k w hich,
I kn ow n ot w hy, certain ly characterizes the ch ie f part o f the gen tle
m en o f his profession.
W h en ce com es that general scow l w hich
darkens the faces o f the Irish p riesth o o d ? I have m et a score o f
these reverend gen tlem en in the country, and not one o f them seem ed
to lo o k or speak frankly, excep t M r. M athew , and a coup le m ore.
H e is alm ost the o n ly m an, too, that I have m et in Irelan d, w ho, in
sp eakin g o f p ublic m atters, did not talk as a partisan. W ith the
state o f the country, o f landlord, tenant, and peasantry, he seem ed
to be m ost curiously and intim ately a c q u a in te d ; speaking o f their
wants, differences, and the m eans o f bettering them,^vith the m inutest
practical kn ow ledge. A n d it w as im possible in hearing him to know ,
but from previous acquain tan ce w ith his character, w hether he w as
W h ig or T o ry , C a th o lic or Protestant. W h y does n ot G overn m en t
m ake a P r h y C o u n cillo r o f him ?— that is, if he w ould hon our the
R ig h t H on ourable b o d y b y tak in g a seat am ongst them. H is know
led ge o f the people is prodigious, and their con fiden ce in him as
g r e a t ; an d what a touchin g attachm ent that is w hich these p oor
fellow s show to an y one w ho has their cause at heart— even to an y
one w ho says he has !
A v o id in g all p olitical questions, no m an seem s m ore eager than
he for the practical im provem ent o f this country.
L eases and rents,
farm ing im provem ents, reading-societies, m usic-societies— he w as full
o f these, and o f his schem es o f tem perance a b o v e all. H e n ever
m isses a chance o f m aking a convert, and has his hand ready an d a
p led ge in his p o ck et for sick or poor. O n e o f his discip les in a liverycoat cam e into the room w ith a tray— M r. M ath ew recogn ized him ,
a n d shook him b y the hand d ir e c t ly ; so he d id w ith the strangers
w ho w ere presented to h im ; and n ot w ith a courtly popularity-hunting
air, but, as it seem ed, from sheer hearty kindness, and a desire to d o
every one good.
W h en breakfast w as done— (he to o k b u t one cup o f tea, and say s
that, fi’om havin g been a great consum er o f tea and refreshing liqu id s
FA TH ER M A T H E W S CEM ETERY.
63
before, a sm all cup o f tea, and one glass o f w ater at dinner, now serve
him for his d a y ’s beverage)— ^he to o k the ladies o f our party to see his
biirying-ground— a n ew and handsom e cem etery, lyin g a little w ay
out o f th e town, and w here, thank G o d ! Protestants and C ath o lics
may lie togeth er, w ithout clergym en quarrelling o ver their coffins.
I t is a handsom e p ie c e o f ground, and w as form erly a b o tan ic
garden ; but the funds failed for that undertaking, as they have for a
thousand other p u b lic enterprises in this p oor disunited country ; and
so it has b een con verted into a hortus siccus for us m ortals. T h e re is
already a p retty large collection . In the m idst is a p lace for M ath ew
him self— hon our to him livin g or dead !
M eanw hile, num erous
stately m onum ents have been built, flowers plan ted here and there
over d e ar rem ains, and the garden in w hich they lie is rich, green, and
b e a u tifu l H e re is a fine statue, b y H o ga n , o f a w eepin g genius that
broods o ve r the tom b o f an honest m erchant and clothier o f the city.
H e to o k a lik in g to the artist, his fellow -low nsm an, and ordered his
own m onum ent, and had the gratification to see it arrive from R o m e
a few w ee k s before his death. A prettier thing even than the statue
is th e tom b o f a little b o y , w hich has been shut in b y a large and
curious grille o f iron-w ork. T h e father w orked it, a blacksm ith, w hose
d arlin g the child w as, and h e spent three years in ham m ering out this
m ausoleum . I t is the beautiful story o f the pot o f ointm ent told
aga in a t th e p oor blacksm ith’s a n v il; and w ho can b ut like him for
p la cin g this fine gilded cage over the b o d y o f his p oor little one ?
P re se n tly yo u com e to a Frenchw om an ’s tom b, w ith a F ren ch epitaph
b y a F re n ch husband, and a p ot o f artificial flowers in a niche— a
wrig, an d a p o t o f rouge, as it w ere, ju st to m ake the d ead look
p assa b ly w ell. It is his m anner o f show ing his sym pathy for an im
m ortal soul that has passed aw'ay. T h e p oor m ay b e buried here for
n o t h in g ; and here, too, once m ore t h a n k G o d ! each m ay rest
w ith ou t priests or parsons scow lin g hell-fire at his neighbour uncon
scious u n der the grass.
64
CH APTER
V I.
CORK— THE URSULINE CONVENT.
T h e r e is a large U rsiilin e co n ven t at B lackro ck , near C o rk , an d a
lad y w ho had been educated there was kin d enough to invite m e to
jo in a party to visit the place. W as not this a great p rivilege for a
heretic ?
I h ave peeped into co n ven t chapels abroad, and occasion
a lly caught glim pses o f a w hite veil or b la ck g o w n ; b ut to see the
pious ladies in their own retreat was quite a n ovelty— m uch m ore
excitin g than tlie exhibition o f L o n g H o rn s and Short H o rn s b y
w hich w e had to pass on our road to B lackro ck .
T h e three miles* ride is very pretty. A s far as nature goes, she
has don e her best for the n eig h b o u rh o o d ; and the noble hills on the
opposite coast o f the river, studded w ith innum erable pretty villas
and garnished with fine trees and m eadow s, the river itse lf dark blue
under a brilliant cloudless heaven, and liv e ly w ith its m ultip licity o f
g a y craft, accom pan y the traveller alon g the r o a d ; exce p t here and
there w here the view is shut out b y fine avenues o f trees, a b e g g a rly
row o f cottages, or a v illa wall. R o w s o f dirty cabins, and smart
bankers* country-houses, m eet one at every tu rn ; n or do the latter want
for fine names, you m ay be sure. T h e Irish gran diloquence displays
itself finely in the invention o f such ; and, to the great in conven ien ce,
I should think, o f the postm an, the nam es o f the hou.ses ap p ear to
chan ge w ith the te n a n ts : for I saw m any old houses w ith new p la
cards in front, setting forth the last title o f the house.
I h ad the b o x o f the carriage (a sm art veh icle that w ou ld h ave
don e credit to the ring), and found the gentlem an b y m y side ver}'
com m unicative. H e nam ed the ow-ners o f the p retty m ansions an d
lawns visible on the other side o f the r iv e r : th ey appear alm ost a ll to
be m erchants, w ho have m ade their fortunes in the city.
In the lik e
m anner, though the air o f the town is extrem ely fresh and pure to a
pair o f I.,ondon lungs, the C o rk shopkeeper is n ot satisfied w ith it, but
con trives for h im self a p lace (with an euphonious nam e, no doubt) in
the suburbs o f the city. T h e se stretch to a great exten t a lo n g th e
beautiful, liberal-looking banks o f the stream.
A TEM PERANCE MAN.
65
I a sk ed th e m an abou t the T em p eran ce, and w hether he was a
tem perance m an ? H e rep lied b y p ulling a m edal out o f his w aist
coat p o c k e t, sayin g that he alw ays carried it abou t with him for fear
of tem p tation . H e said that he to o k the p led g e two yegirs ago,
before w h ich tim e, as he confessed, he had been a sad sinner in the
way o f d rin k. “ I used to tak e,” said he, “ from eighteen to tw en ty
glasses o f w h isky a d a y ; I was alw ays at the drink ; I ’d b e often up
all n igh t a t the public : I was turned aw ay b y m y present m aster on .
a cco u n t o f i t ; ”— ând all o f a sudden he resolved to break it off. I
asked h im w hether he had n ot at first exp erien ced ill-health from the
suddenn ess o f the change in his h a b it s ; but he said— and let all
persons m editating a conversion from liquor rem em ber the fact— that
the a bstin en ce n ever affected him in the least, but that he w ent on
grow in g b etter and better in health every day, stronger and m ore able
o f m in d and body.
T h e m an w as a C ath o lic, and in speakin g o f the num erous p laces
o f w orship alon g the road as w e p assed, I ’m sorry to confess, dealt
some ru d e cuts w ith his w hip regarding the Protestants. C oachm an
as he w as, the fellow ’s rem arks seem ed to be c o r r e c t : for it appears
that th e religious w orld o f C o rk is o f so excessively enlightened
a kin d , th at one church w ill n ot con ten t one pious person ; but
that, o n the contrary, they w ill be at C h urch o f a m orning, at
In depen den t church o f an afternoon, at a D a rb y ite congregation o f
an evenin g, and so on, gathering excitem en t or inform ation from all
sources w h ich th ey co u ld com e a t
Is n ot this the case ? are n ot
some o f the ultra-serious as eager after a new preacher, as the ultraworldly for a new dancer ? don ’t they talk and gossip about him as
much ?
T h o u g h theology from the coach-box is rather questionable,
(after a ll, th e m an w as ju st as m uch authorised to propound his
notions as m an y a fellow from an am ateur pulpit,) y et he certain ly had
the right here as far as his charge against certain Protestants w e n t
T h e reason ing from it w as quite obvious, and I ’m sure was in the
man’s m ind, though h e did n ot utter it, as w e d rove b y this tim e in to
the co n ve n t gate. “ H e re ,” says coachm an, “ is our church, / d o n ’t
drive m y m aster and m istress from church to chapel, from chapel to
conventicle, huntin g after n ew preachers every Sabbath. I brin g
them e v e ry S un day and set them dow n at the sam e p lace, w here
they k n o w that everything th e y hear must b e right. T h e ir fathers
have d o n e the sam e thin g before th e m ; and the youn g ladies and
S
66
gentlem en w ill com e here too ; and all the new-fangled d octors and
teachers m ay g o roaring through the land, and still here w e com e
regularly, n ot caring a w hit for the vagaries o f others, kn ow in g that
w e ourselves are in the real old right original w ay.”
I am sure this is w hat the fellow m eant b y his sneer at the P ro
testants, and their gaddin g from one doctrine to a n o th e r ; but there
was n o call and no time to have a b attle with him , as b y this tim e
w e had entered a large lawm co ve re d w ith h ayco cks, and prettily, as
I think, ornam ented with a border o f blossom ing potatoes, and drove
up to the front door o f the convent. I t is a huge old square house,
with m any wdndows, havin g p ro b ab ly been som e flaunting squire’s
re s id e n c e ; but the nuns liave taken o ff som ew hat from its rakish
lo o k, b y flinging out a couple o f w ings w ith chapels, or buildings like
chapels, at either end.
A large, lofty, clean, trim hall was open to a flight o f steps, and
we found a youn g la d y in the hall, playing, instead o f a pious sonata
— w hich I vain ly thought w as the practice in such go d ly sem inaries
o f learn in g— that abom inable rattling p iece o f m usic ca lled /a
Vioiette, w^hich it has been m y lo t to hear executed b y other yo u n g
la d ie s ; and w hich (with its like) has alw ays appeared to m e to be
constructed upon this sim ple fashion— to take a tune, and then, as
it were, to fling it dow n and upstairs. A s soon as the yo u n g la d y
playin g “ the V io le t ” saw us, she quitted the hall and retired to an
inner apartm ent, w here she resum ed that delectable p iece at her
leisure. In d eed there were pianos all o ver the education al part o f
the house.
W e w ere shown into a g a y parlour (where hangs a p retty draw ing
representing the m elan choly old co n ven t w hich the Sisters p reviously
inhabited in C o rk ), and p resen tly Sister N o . T w o -E ig h t m ade her
app earan ce— a pretty and graceful lady, attired as on the n ext page.
“ ’T is the prettiest nun o f the w hole house,” w hispered the la d y
w ho had been educated at the c o n v e n t; and I m ust ow n that slim ,
gen tle, and pretty as this yo u n g la d y was, and calculated w ith her
kin d sm iling face an d little figure to frighten n o one in th e w orld,
a great six-foot Protestant could n ot help lo o k in g at her w ith a little
trem ble.
I had never been in a nun’s com p an y b e fo r e ; I ’m afraid
o f such— I don ’t care to ow n— în their b la ck m ysterious robes an d
awful veils. A s priests in gorgeous vestm ents, an d little ro sy incensebo ys in red, b o b their heads and kn ees up an d dow n before altars,
A NUN.
67
o r c la tte r s ilv e r pots full o f sm oking odours, I feel I don ’t kn ow
wfaat so rt o f thrill and secret creepin g terror. H e re I was, in a
ro o m w ith a real live nun, pretty and pale— I w onder has she an y
o f her sisterh ood im m ured in ouhlicttes dow n b e lo w ; is her poor little
weak, d elicate b o d y scarred all over with scourgings, iron-collars,
hair-shirts?
W h at has she had for dinner to -d ay?— as we passed
the refectory there w as a faint sort o f vapid nun-like vegetable smell,
speaking o f fasts and w ooden p la tte r s ; and I could picture to
m yself silen t sisters eating their m eal— a grim old yellow one in the
reading-desk, croakin g out an extract from a serm on for their edifi
cation.
B ut is it p o licy, or hypocrisy, or rea lity ? T h e se nuns affect
extreme happiness and content w ith their condition : a sm iling
beatitude, w hich th ey insist belongs peculiarly to them , and about
which the o n ly doubtful p oin t is the m anner in w hich it is produced
before strangers.
Y o u n g ladies educated in con vents h ave often
m entioned this fact— ^how the nuns persist in declaring and p rovin g to
them their ow n extrem e enjoym en t o f life.
W e re all the sm iles o f that kind-looking Sister T w o -E ig h t p erfectly
sin cere? W h en ever she spoke her face w as ligh ted up w ith one.
She seem ed p erfectly radiant with happiness, tripping ligh tly before
os, a n d distributing kin d com plim ents to each, w hich m ade m e in a
68
ve ry few m inutes forget the introductory fright w hich her p o or little
presence had occasioned.
She took us through the hall (where w as the vegetable savour
before m entioned), and showed us the contrivance b y w hich the nam e
o f T w o -E ig h t was ascertained. E a ch nun has a num ber, or a com
bination o f num bers, prefixed to her n a m e ; and a b ell is pulled a
corresponding num ber o f times, b y w hich each sister know s w hen she is
w anted. P o o r s o u ls ! are they always on the look-out for that bell, that
the ringing o f it should be supposed in fallibly to aw aken their attention?
F rom the hall the sister co n d u cted us through ranges o f apart
m ents, and I had alm ost said avenues o f pianofortes, w hen ce here and
there a startled pensioner w ould rise, hinnuleo similis, at our approach,
seekin g a pavidam matrem in the person o f a dem ure old stout m other
hard by. W e w ere taken through a hall decorated with a series o f
pictures o f P o p e Pius V I .,— w onderful adventures, truly, in the life o f
the gen tle old man. In one you see him gracefully receiving a P rin ce
and Princess o f R u ssia (trem endous in c id e n t!). T h e P rince has a
pigtail, the Princess pow der and a train, the P o p e a— b ut never m ind,
w e shall never get through the house at this rate.
Passing through P o p e Piu s’s gallery, w e cam e into a long, clean ,
lofty passage, w ith m any little doors on each sid e; and here I con fess
m y heart began to thump again. T h e se w ere the doors o f the ce lls
o f the Sisters. Bon D ieu ! and is it possible that I shall see a nun’s
cell ? D o I not reco llect the nun’s cell in “ T h e M o n k ,” or in “ T h e
R o m an ce o f the F orest ? ” or, if not there, at an y rate, in a thousand
noble rom ances, read in early days Of half-holiday perhaps— rom ances
at tw opence a volum e.
C o m e in, in the nam e o f the saints I H e re is the cell. I to o k
o ff m y hat and exam ined the little room w ith m uch curious w on der
and reverence. T h ere was an iron bed, w ith com fortable curtains o f
green serge. T h e re w as a little clothes-chest o f yello w w ood, n ea tly
clean ed, and a w ooden chair beside it, and a d esk on the chest, and
about six pictures on the w all— ^little religious pictures : a saint with
g ilt paper round h im ; the Virgin show ing on her breast a bleed in g
heart, w ith a sword run through i t ; and other sad little subjects,
calculated to m ake the inm ate o f the cell think o f the sufferings o f
the saints and m artyrs o f the Church.
T h e n there w as a little crucifix,
and a w ax-candle on the le d g e ; and here w as the p lace w here the
p o o r black-veiled things were to pass their lives for e v e r !
TH E URSULINE CONVENT.
69
A fte r havin g seen a couple o f these little cells, w e left the corridors
in w h ich th ey w ere, and were con ducted, w ith a sort o f pride on the
nun’s part, I thought, into the grand room o f the con vent— a parlour
with p ictures o f saints, and a ga y paper, and a series o f small fineries,
such o n ly as w om en very idle kn ow how to m ake. T h ere were som e
portraits in the room , one an atrocious daub o f an u g ly old wom an,
surrounded b y children still m ore hideous. S om ebody had told the
poor nun that this w as a fine thing, and she b elieved it— heaven
bless h e r !— quite im p licitly: nor is the picture o f the u gly old C an adian
woman the first reputation that has been m ade this way.
T h e n from the fine parlour we w en t to the museum . I don't
know h o w w e should be curious o f such trifle s ; but the chroniclin g o f
sraall-beer is the m ain business o f life— p eople o n ly differing, as T o m
M oore w isely says in one o f his best poem s, abou t their own peculiar
tap. T h e p o or nun’s little collection o f gim cracks w as displayed in
great state : there w ere spars in one d r a w e r ; and, I think, a C h inese
shoe a n d som e In dian wares in a n o th e r; and som e m edals o f the
Popes, an d a co u p le o f score o f c o in s ; and a clean glass case, full o f
antique w orks o f F ren ch theology o f the distant period o f L ou is X V .,
to ju d g e b y the bindings— ând this form ed the m ain part o f the
museum.
“ T h e ch ie f ob jects w ere gathered together b y a single
nun,” said the sister w ith a lo o k o f w onder, as she w en t prattling
on, and leadin g us hither and thither, like a child show ing her toys.
W h at strange m ixture o f p ity and pleasure is it w hich com es over
you som etim es w hen a child takes you b y the hand, an d leads you
up so lem n ly to som e little treasure o f its ow n— a feather or a string
o f glass b ead s ? I declare I have often lo o ked at such with more
delight than at d ia m o n d s; and felt the sam e sort o f soft w onder
exam in in g the nun’s little treasure-cham ber. T h e re w as som etliing
touchin g in the very p o verty o f i t :— had it been finer, it w-ould n ot
h ave b e e n h a lf so good.
A n d n ow w e had seen all the w onders o f the house but the
chap el, and thither w e were c o n d u c te d ; all the ladies o f our party
k n eelin g dow n as they entered the building, and sayin g a short
prayer.
T h is , as I am on sentim ental confessions, I must own affected m e
too. It w as a very pretty and tender sight. I should h ave liked to
k n e e l dow n too, b ut w as ash am ed; our northern usages n ot encouraging
— âmong m en at least— that sort o f abandonm ent o f dignity.
Do
70
an y o f us dare to sing psalm s at ch u rch ? and don ’t w e lo o k with
rather a sneer at a man w ho does ?
T h e chapel had nothing rem arkable in it excep t a very g o o d
organ, as I was t o l d ; for wê were allow ed o n ly to see the exterior o f
that instrument, our pious guide w'ith m uch pleasure rem ovin g an oil
cloth w hich covered the m ahogany. A t one side o f the altar is a lo n g
high grille^ through w hich you see a hall, w here the nuns have their
stalls, and sit in chapel t im e ; and beyo n d this hall is another sm all
chap el, w ith a couple o f altars, and one beautiful print in one o f
them — a G erm an H o ly F am ily— a prim , m ystical, tender piece, ju s t
befitting the place.
In the grille is a little w icket and a led ge before it. It is to this
w icket that w om en are brought to k n e e l; and a bishop is in th e
chap el on the other side, and takes their hands in his, and re ce ive s
their vows.
I had n ever seen the lik e before, and ow n that I felt a
sort o f shudder at lo o kin g at the place. T h ere rest the girl’s kn ees
as she offers h erself up, and forswears th e sacred affections w h ich
G o d gave h e r ; there she kn eels and denies for ever the beautiful
duties o f h er bein g :— ^no tender m aternal yearnings, no gen tle attach
m ents are to be had for her or from her,— there she kn eels an d
com m its suicide upon her h e a r t O honest M artin L u t h e r ! th an k
G o d , you cam e to pull that infernal, w icked, unnatural altar dow n—
that cursed P a g a n ism ! L e t people, solitary, worn-out b y sorrow o r
oppressed w ith extrem e rem orse, retire to such p la c e s ; fly an d b e a t
yo u r breasts in caverns and wildernesses, O w om en, if you w ill, b u t
b e M agdalen s first I t is sham eful that an y yo u n g girl, w ith an y
vo catio n h ow ever seem ingly strong, should b e allow ed to bu ry h e rs e lf
in this sm all tom b o f a few acres. L o o k a t yo n d er nun,— ^pretty,
smiling, graceful, and youn g,— w hat has G o d ’s w’orld done to hery
that she should run from it, or she done to the w orld, that she should
a vo id it ? W hat call has she to give up all h er duties and affe ctio n s?
and w ould she n ot b e best serving G o d w ith a husband at her side,
and a child on her kn ee ?
T h e sights in the house havin g been seen, the nun led us through
the grounds and gardens. T h e re was the h a y in front, a fine y ello w
corn-field at the b a ck o f the house, and a large m elan choly-looking
k itch e n -ga rd e n ; in all o f w hich p laces the nuns, for certain hours in
the day, are allow ed to tak e recreation. “ T h e nuns here are allo w ed
to am use them selves m ore than ours at N e w H a ll,” said a little g ir l
THE CONVENT BURIAL-GROUND.
71
w h o is educated at that E n glish c o n v e n t : “ do you kn ow that here
th e n un s m ay m ake h ay ? ” W h at a privilege is this ! W e saw none
o f th e b la ck sisterhood availin g them selves o f it, h o w e v e r : the h ay
w a s n ea tly piled into co ck s and ready for h o u s in g ; so the p oor souls
m u st w ait until n ext year before they can en jo y this blessed sport
o n c e m ore.
T u rn in g in to a narrow gate with the nun at our head , we found
o u rselves in a little green, quiet inclosure— it was the burial-ground
o f th e con vent. T h e p oor things k n o w the places where th ey are to
l i e ; she w ho w as w ith us talk ed sm ilingly o f bein g stretched there
o n e d ay, and poin ted out the resting-place o f a favourite old sister
w h o h ad d ied three m onths b a ck , and been buried in the very m idst
o f th e little ground.
A n d here they com e to live and die.
The
g a te s are open , b u t they n ever g o out. A ll their w orld lies in a dozen
a cre s o f ground ; and they sacrifice their lives in early youth, m any o f
th e m passing from the grave upstairs in the house to the one scarcely
n arro w er in the churchyard here ; and are seem in gly not unhappy.
I cam e out o f the p lace quite s ic k ; and lo o kin g before m e,—
th ere, th an k G o d ! was the blu e spire o f M on kstow n church soaring
u p in to the free sky— a river in front rollin g aw ay to the sea— liberty,
sun shine, a ll sorts o f glad life and m otion round a b o u t : and I
co u ld n ’t b u t thank heaven for it, and the B ein g w hose servdce is free
d o m , a n d w ho has given us affections that w e m ay use them — not
sm o th er and k ill th e m ; and a n oble w orld to live in, that w e m ay
adm ire it and H im w ho m ade it— n ot shrink from it, as though w e
dared n o t live there, but must turn our backs upon it and its bountiful
P ro vid e r.
A n d in con clusion, if that m ost cold-blooded and precise o f all
person ages, the respectable and respected E n glish reader, m ay feel
d isp osed to sneer at the a b ove sentim ental hom ily, or to fan cy that it
has b e e n wTitten for effect— let him go and see a co n ven t for him self.
I d e clare I think for m y part that w e have as m uch right to perm it
Sutteeism in In d ia as to allow w om en in the U n ited K in g d o m to
tak e th e se w icked vow s, or C a th o lic bishops to receive t h e m ; and
that G o vern m en t has as go o d a right to interpose in such cases, as the
p o lic e h a ve to prevent a m an from han ging him self, or the do cto r to
refuse a glass o f prussic-acid to an y one w ho m ay have a w ish to g o
o u t o f th e w orld.
72
CH APTER
V II.
CORK.
A m id s t
the bustle and gaieties o f the A gricultural m eeting, the
w orking-day asp ect o f the city was not to be ju d g ed o f: but I passed
a fortnight in the p lace afterwards, during w hich tim e it settled dow n
to its calm and usual condition. T h e flashy F ren ch and plated goods*
shops, w hich m ade a show for the occasion o f the m eeting, dis
appeared ; yo u were no longer crow ded and jo stle d b y smart m ale
and fem ale dandies in w alkin g dow n P atrick Street or the M a ll; the
p oor little theatre had scarcely a soul on its bare b e n c h e s : I w ent
once, but the dreadful brass-band o f a dragoon regim ent blew m e out
o f doors. T h is m usic could be heard m uch m ore pleasantly at som e
distance o ff in the stre e t
O n e sees in this country m any a grand and tall iron gate leadin g
into a very shabby field covered w ith th is tle s ; and the sim ile to the
gate w ill in som e degree app ly to this fam ous city o f C o rk ,— ^^vhich is
certainly not a city o f palaces, but o f w hich the outlets are m a gn ificen t
T h a t towards K illa m e y leads b y the L ee , the old A ven u e o f M ard yke,
and the rich green pastures stretching dow n to the r iv e r ; and as yo u
pass b y the p ortico o f tlie coun ty gaol, as fine and as gla n cin g as a
palace, yo u see the w ooded heights on the other side o f the fair
stream, crow ded with a thousand p retty villas and terraces, p resenting
iivery im age o f com fort and prosperity. T h e entrance from C o v e has
.been m entioned b e fo r e ; nor is it easy to find anyw here a nobler,
grander, and m ore cheerful scene.
A lo n g the quays up to Saint P a trick ’s B rid ge there is a certain
, bustle. Som e forty ships m ay be lyin g at anch or alon g the w alls o f
the quay, and its pavem ents are co vered w ith go o d s o f various
m erchandise : here a cargo o f h id e s ; yo n d er a com pan y o f soldiers,
their kits, and their D o llies, w ho are taking leave o f the red-coats at
the steam er’s side. T h e n you shall see a fine, squeaking, shriekin g
. drove o f pigs em barking b y the sam e co n veyan ce, an d insinuated
in to the steam er b y all sorts o f coaxin g, threatening, and w heedlin g.
Seam en are singing and yeehoin g on b o a r d ; grim y colliers sm o kin g
PO V E R TY IN CORK.
73
at th e liquor-shops a lon g the q u a y ; and as for the brid ge— there is a
cro w d o f idlers on that, you m ay be sure, spraw ling o ver the balus
tra d e fo r ever and ever, w ith lo n g ragged coats, steeple-hats, and
stu m p y doodeens.
T h e n alon g the C o a l Q u ay you m ay see a clum p o f jingle-drivers,
w ho h a ve all a w ord for your h o n o u r; and in P a trick Street, at three
o ’c lo c k , w hen “ T h e R a k e s o f M a llow ” gets under w eigh (a cracked
old co ach w ith the paint rubbed off, som e sm art horses, and an
e xceed in gly d in gy harness)— at three o ’clo ck, you will be sure to
see at least forty persons w aiting to w itness the departure o f the
said c o a c h : so that the neighbourhood o f the inn has an air o f
some bustle.
A t the other extrem ity o f the town, if it be assize tim e, you w ill
see some five hundred persons squattin g b y the court-house, or
buzzing an d talkin g w'ithin. T h e rest o f the respectable quarter o f
the city is pretty free from anything like bustle : there is no m ore
life in P a trick Street than in R u ssell Square o f a sunshiny d a y ;
and as for the M all, it is as lo n ely as the ch ie f street o f a G erm an
Residenz.
I have m entioned the respectable quarter o f the city— for there
are quarters in it swarm ing with life, b ut o f such a frightful kind as no
pen n eed care to describe : alleys w here the odours and rags and
darkness are so hideous, that one runs frightened aw ay from them .
In some o f them , they say, n ot the policem an, only the priest, can
penetrate. I asked a R om an C a th o lic clergym an o f the city to take
me into som e o f these haunts, b ut he refused very ju s t ly ; and indeed
a man m ay b e quite satisfied w ith w hat he can see in the m ere out
skirts o f the districts, w ithout caring to penetrate further.
N o t far
from the quays is an open space w here the p oor hold a m arket or
bazaar. H e re is liveliness and business e n o u g h : ragged w om en
chattering and cryin g their b eggarly w a re s; ragged boys gloatin g
over d irty apple- and p ie -sta lls; fish fr>'ing, and raw and s tin k in g ;
clothes-booths, w here you m ight bu y a w ardrobe for scarecrow s ; old
nails, hoops, bottles, and m a rin e-w a rcs; old b attered furniture, that
has been sold against starvation. In the streets round about this
place, on a sunshiny day, all the b la ck gap in g w indow s and m ouldy
steps are covered with squatting la zy figures— w om en, w ith bare
breasts, nursing babies, and leerin g a jo k e as you pass b y — ragged
ch ild ren p ad d lin g everyw here. I t is but tw o minutes* w alk out o f
74
P a trick Street, w here you com e upon a fine flashy shop o f platedgoods, or a grand F rench em porium o f dolls, w alking-sticks, carp et
b ags, and perfum ery. T h e m arkets hard b y have a rough, oldfashioned, cheerful look ; it’s a com fort after the m isery to hear a red
butcher’s w ife cryin g after you to bu y an honest p iece o f meat.
T h e poor-house, n ew ly established, cann ot hold a fifth part o f th e
p o verty o f this great to^vn : the richer inhabitants are untiring in
their charities, and the C a th o lic clergym an before m e n tio n e d . to o k
m e to see a d elivery o f rice, at w hich he presides every d ay un til the
potatoes shall com e in.
T h is m arket, o ver w hich he presides so
k in d ly, is held in an old bankrupt w arehouse, and the rice is sold
con siderably under the prim e cost to hundreds o f stniggling app licants
w ho com e w hen lu ck y enough to have w herew ithal to pay.
T h a t the city contains m uch w ealth is evid en ced b y the num ber
o f handsom e villas round about it, w here the rich m erchants d w e ll;
but the w'arehouses o f the w’ealthy provision-m erchants m ake n o show
to the stranger w alkin g the s tre e ts ; and o f the retail-shops, i f som e
are spacious and handsom e, m ost lo o k as if too b ig for the business
carried on w ithin. T h e \vant o f ready-m oney w as quite curious. In
three o f the principal shops I purchased articles, and ten dered a
pound in exchange— not one o f them had silver e n o u g h ; and as for
a five-pound note, w hich I presented at one o f the to p p in g b o o k
seller’s, his b o y w ent round to various p laces in vain, and finally set
forth to the B an k, >vhere change wâs g o t
In another sm all shop I
offered half-a-crown to p ay for a sixpenn y article— it was all the sam e.
“ T im ,” says the go o d wom an, “ run out in a hurry and fetch th e
gen tlem an ch an ge.” T w o o f the shopm en, seeing an En glishm an,
w ere very particular to tell m e in w^hat years they them selves had
been in L on do n . It seem ed a m erit in these gentlem en’s eyes to
h ave once dw elt in that c i t y ; and I see in the papers con tin ually
ladies advertising as governesses, and specifying particularly that th e y
are “ E n glish ladies.”
I received six 5/. post-oftice o r d e r s ; I called four tim es o n as
m any different days at the P o st O ffice before the capital co u ld b e
forthcom ing, gettin g on the third app lication 20/. (after m akin g a
great clam our, and vow in g that such things w ere unheard-of in
E n gland), and on the fourth call the rem aining 10/. I saw p o o r
peop le, w ho m ay h ave com e 'from the coun try w ith their orders,
refused p aym ent o f an order o f som e 4ox.y an d a gen tlem an w h o
SH ABBIN ESS OF BUILDINGS.
75
te n d e re d a pound-note in p aym ent o f a foreign letter, w as told to
“ le a v e his letter and p a y som e other tim e.” Such things could not
ta k e p la c e in the hundred-and-second city in E n g la n d ; and as I do
n o t p reten d to doctrinise at all, I leave the reader to draw his own
d ed u ctio n s w ith regard to the com m ercial con dition and prosperity o f
the seco n d city in Irelan d.
H alf-a-dozen o f the p ublic buildings I saw were spacious and
sh a b b y b e yo n d all co ck n e y belief. A d jo in in g the “ Im perial H o te l” is
a great, large, handsom e, desolate reading-room , w hich was founded
b y a b o d y o f C o rk m erchants and tradesm en, and is the very p icture
o f d ecay.
N o t P alm yra— n ot the R u ssell In stitution in G reat C oram
Street— ^presents a m ore m elan ch o ly appearance o f faded greatness.
O p p o site this is another institution, called the C o rk L ibrary, w here
there are p len ty o f bo o ks and p len ty o f kindness to the stra n g er; but
the shabbin ess and faded splendour o f the p lace are quite painful.
T h e r e a re three handsom e C a th o lic churches co m m enced o f late
y e a r s ; n o t one o f them is com plete : tw o w ant their porticoes ; the
o th er is n o t m ore than thirty feet from the groun d, and accordin g to
th e architectural plan w as to rise as high as a cathedral. T h e re is
an In stitu tion , w ith a fair library o f scientific w orks, a museum, and
a draw ing-school w ith a supply o f casts. T h e p lace is in yet m ore
d ism al con dition than the L ib ra ry : the plasters are spoiled in curably
for w an t o f a sixpenn y feather-brush ; the dust lies on the walls, and
n o b o d y seem s to heed i t
T w o shillings a year w ould have repaired
m uch o f the evil w hich has happened to this in stitu tio n ; and it is
fo lly to ta lk o f inward dissensions and p olitical differences as causing
the ruin o f such institutions : kings or law don ’t cause or cure dust
and co b w eb s, but in dolen ce leaves them to accum ulate, and impru
d en ce w ill n ot calcu late its incom e, and van ity exaggerates its ow n
pow ers, an d the fault is laid upon that tyrant o f a sister kingdom .
T h e w h o le country is filled w ith such fa ilu re s ; sw aggering beginn in gs
that co u ld n o t b e carried th ro u g h ; grand enterprises begun dashingly,
and en d in g in shabby com prom ises or dow nright ruin.
I h a v e said som ething in praise o f the m anners o f the C o rk
l a d ie s : in regard o f the gentlem en, a stranger too m ust rem ark the
e xtraord in ary degree o f literary taste and talent am ongst them, and
th e w it an d viv a city o f their conversation. T h e lo ve for literature
seem s to an E n glishm an do u bly curious. W h at, gen erally speaking,,
d o a co m p an y o f grave gentlem en and ladies in B aker Street k n o w
76
about it ? W h o ever reads b o o ks in the C ity , or how often does one
hear them talked about at a C lu b ? T h e C o rk citizens are the m ost
b ook-lovin g m en I ever met. T h e town has sent to E n glan d a
num ber o f literary m en, o f reputation too, and is n ot a little proud
o f their fame. E ve ry b o d y seem ed to kn ow w hat M aginn was doin g,
and that F ath er P ro ut had a third volu m e ready, and w hat w as
M r. C rokeP s last article in the Quarterly. T h e yo u n g clerks and
shopm en seem ed as m uch an fa it as their em ployers, and m any
is the conversation I heard about the m erits o f this w riter or that
— D ick en s, A insw orth, L over, L ever.
I think, in w alkin g the streets, and lo o kin g at the ragged urchins
crow ding there, every Englishm an m ust rem ark that the superiority
o f in telligence is here, and not w ith us.
I n ever saw such a c o lle c
tion o f bright-eyed, w ild, clever, eager faces.
Mr. M a clise has
carried aw ay a num ber o f them in his m e m o r y ; and the lovers o f
his adm irable pictures w ill find more than one M unster co u n ten an ce
under a helm et in com pan y o f M acbeth, or in a slashed d o u b le t
alon gside o f P rin ce H am let, or in the very m idst o f Spain in co m
pan y w ith Senor G il Bias. G il B ias him self cam e from C o rk , and
n ot from O viedo.
I listened to two bo ys alm ost in r a g s : th ey w ere lo llin g o ver
the quay balustrade, and talking about one o f the Ptolemys! an d
talking very w ell too. O n e o f them had been reading in “ R o llin ,”
and was detailing his inform ation with a great deal o f elo qu en ce
an d fire. A n o th er day, wâlking in the M ardyke, I follow ed three
b oys, n ot h a lf so w ell dressed as L o n d o n errand-boys : o n e was
tellin g the other about C ap tain R o ss’s voyages, an d sp ok e w ith as
m uch brightness and in telligence as the best-read gen tlem an ’s son
in E n gland could do.
H e was as m uch o f a gentlem an too, the
ragged youn g s tu d e n t; his m anner as good, though perhaps m o re
eager and e m p h a tic ; his language was extrem ely rich, too, and
eloquent.
D o e s the reader rem em ber his school-days, w hen halfa-dozen lads in the bedroom s to o k it b y turns to tell stories ? how
p oor the language gen erally was, and how exce ed in gly p o o r the
im agination ! B o th o f those ragged Irish lads had the m akin g o f
gentlem en, scholars, orators, in them. A p ro p o s o f lo ve o f reading,
le t me m ention here a D u b lin story.
D r. I.,ever,*the celebrated
author o f “ H arry L orrequer,” w ent into D y ce P s stables to b u y a
horse.
T h e groom w ho brought the anim al out, d irectly h e heard
PU BLIC INSTITUTIONS.
77
w ho th e gen tlem an w as, cam e out and touched his cap, and pointed
to a little b o o k in his p o ck et in a p ink cover. “ I carlt do without
it, s ir ” says th e man. It was “ H a rry L orrequer.” I w onder does
any o n e o f M r. R y m e ll’s groom s take in “ P ick w ick ,” or w ould they
have a n y curiosity to see M r. D ick en s, should he pass that w ay ?
T h e C orkagian s are eager for a M un ster U n iversity ; asking for,
and h avin g a very g o o d right to, the sam e privilege w hich has been
granted to the c h ie f city o f the N orth o f Ireland. I t w ould not fail
o f b e in g a great benefit to the city and to the coun try too, which*
would h ave n o n eed to g o so far as D u blin for a school o f letters and
m e d icin e ; nor, W h ig and C a th o lic for the m ost part, to attend a
T o ry a n d Protestan t U n iversity. T h e establishing o f an open co llege
in M un ster w ou ld brin g m uch popularity to any M in istry that should
accord such a boon .
P eo p le w ou ld cry out, “ P o p ery and In fidelity,”
doubtless, as they did w hen the L o n d o n U n iversity was e sta b lish e d ;
as the sam e party in Spain w ou ld cry out, “ A th eism and H e re sy.”
But th e tim e, thank G o d ! is gon e b y in E n gland w'hen it w as
necessary to legislate for them; and Sir R o b e rt P eel, in givin g his
adherence to the N ation al E ducation schem e, has sanctioned the
principle o f w hich this so m uch longed-for co lleg e w ould only b e a
consequence.
T h e m ed ical charities and hospitals are said to b e very w ell
arranged, and the m edical men o f far m ore than ordinary skill.
Other p u b lic institutions are n o less excellent. I was taken over
the L u n a tic A sylum , w here everything w as co n d u cted w ith adm irable
comfort, cleanliness, and k in d n e s s ; and as for the coun ty gaol, it is
so n eat, spacious, and com fortable, that w e can o n ly p ray to see
every co ttag er in the coun try as clean ly, w ell lodged, an d w ell fed as
the co n v icts are. T h e y get a p ound o f bread and a pint o f m ilk
twice a d a y : there m ust b e m illions o f peop le in this w retched
country, to w hom such food w ould b e a luxury that their utm ost
labours ca n n ever b y p ossibility procure for th e m ; and in go in g over
this adm irable institution, w here everyb o d y is clean ly, healthy, and
w ell-clad, I co u ld not but think o f the rags and filth o f the horrid
starvation m arket before m e n tio n e d ; so that the prison seem ed
alm ost a sort o f prem ium for vice. B ut the people like their free
dom, such as it is, and prefer to starve and b e ragged as they list.
T h e y w ill n o t go to the poor-houses, excep t at the greatest extrem ity,
and lea v e them on the slightest chan ce o f existence elsewhere.
78
W a lk in g aw ay from this p alace o f a prison, yo u pass am idst all
sorts o f delightful verdure, cheerful gardens, and broad green luscious
pastures, dow n to the beautiful R iv e r L e e . O n one side, d ie river
shines aw ay towards the city w ith its towers and purple s te e p le s ; on
the other it is broken b y little w aterfalls and boun d in b y blue hills,
an old castle tow ering in the distance, and innum erable parks and
villas ly in g alon g the pleasant w ooded banks. H o w beautiful the
scen e is, how rich and how h a p p y ! Y o n d er, in the o ld M a rd y k e
A v e n u e, you hear the vo ices o f a score o f children, and alon g the
bright green m eadow s, w here the cow s are feeding, the ge n d e shadow s
o f the clouds go p layin g over the grass. W h o can lo o k a t such a
charm ing scene but w ith a thankful sw elling heart ?
In the m idst o f your pleasure, three beggars have h o b b led up,
and are how ling supplications to the L ord . O n e is old and blin d ,
and so diseased and hideous, that straightw ay a ll the pleasure o f th e
sight round abou t vanishes from you— that livid ghastly face inter
posin g betw een you and it. A n d so it is throughout the south an d
w est o f Irelan d ; the traveller is haunted b y the face o f the p o pu lar
starvation. It is not the exception , it is the con dition o f the p eo p le.
In this fairest and richest o f countries, m en are suffering an d starvin g
b y m illions. T h e re are thousands o f them at this m inute stretched
in the sunshine at their cabin doors w ith n o w ork, scarcely a n y food,
Strong countrym en are lyin g in bed ^^for the
hunger ”— because a man lying on his b a ck does n ot n eed so m uch
n o hope seem ingly.
food as a person a-foot.
M a n y o f them h ave to m up the unripe
p otatoes from their little gardens, to exist now, and m ust lo o k to
winter, w hen they shall have to suffer starvation and co ld too.
T h e epicurean, and traveller for pleasure, had better travel anyw'here than here : w here there are m iseries that one does n ot dare to
think o f ; where one is alw ays feeling how* helpless p ity is, an d how
hopeless relief, and is p erpetually m ade asham ed o f bein g happy.
I have just been strolling up a pretty little height ca lled G rattan ’s
H ill, that overlooks the tow n and the river, and w here the artist that
com es Cork-w'ards m ay find m any subjects for his p en d L
T h e re is
a kin d o f pleasure-ground at the top o f this em inence— a broad w alk
that draggles up to a ruined w all, w ith a ruined n iche in it, an d a
battered stone bench . O n the side that shelves dow n to the w ater
are som e beeches, and op posite them a row o f houses from w hich
SUBURBAN SCENES.
79
you see o n e o f the prettiest prospects p ossible— the shining river with
the craft a lon g the quays, and the busy city in the distance, the active
little steam ers puffing aw ay tow ards C o v e , the farther bank crow ned
with rich w’oods, an d pleasant-looking co u n try-h o u ses: perhaps they
are tum bling, ric k e ty and ruinous, as those houses close b y us, but
you can ’t see the ruin from here.
WTiat h strange air o f forlorn gaiety there is about the p lace !—
the sky itself seem s as i f it did n ot kn ow w hether to laugh or cr>', so
full is it o f clouds and sunshine. L ittle fat, ragged, sm iling children
are clam bering abou t the rocks, and sitting on m ossy door-stcps,
tending other children y et sm aller, fatter, and m ore dirty. “ Stop till
I get yo u a p o sy ” (pronounced pawawawsee), cries one urchin to
another. “ T e ll m e w'ho is it ye lo ve, J o o ly ? ” exclaim s another,
cuddling a red-faced infant w ith a very dirty nose. M ore o f the
same race are perched about the summer-house, and tw o w enches
uith large purple feet are flapping som e carpets in the air. It is a
wonder th e carpets w ill bear this kin d o f treatm ent at all, and do not
be o ff a t o n ce to m ingle with the elem ents : I n ever saw things that
hung to life b y such a frail thread.
T h is dism al pleasant p lace is a suburb o f the second city in
Ireland, a n d one o f the m ost beautiful spots abou t the town. W hat
a prim, bustling, active, green-railinged, tea-gardened, gravel-w alked
place w ou ld it have been in the five-hundredth
town in E n gland !— but
you see th e p eo p le can b e quite as happy in the rags and w ithout
the p ain t, and I hear a great deal m ore heartiness and affection from
these ch ild ren than from their fat little brethren across the Channel.
I f a m an w anted to study ruins, here is a house close at hand, n ot
forty years old no doubt, but yet as com p letely go n e to w reck as
NeUey A b b e y . It is quite curious to study that h o u s e ; and a pretty
ruinous fabric o f im providence, extravagance, happiness, and disaster
m ay the im agination build out o f i t ! In the first place, the owners
did n ot w ait to finish it before th ey w ent to inhabit i t ! T h is is
written in ju st such another p la c e ;— a handsom e drawing-room w ith
a g o o d carpet, a lofty m arble m antelpiece, and n o paper to the walls.
T h e door is p rettily pain ted w hite and blue, and though not six w eeks
old, a grea t p iece o f the w ood-w ork is o ff already (P eg gy uses it to
prevent the d o o r from b an gin g t o ) ; and there are som e fine chin ks
in e very one o f the panels, b y w hich m y n eigh bour m ay see all
m y doings.
8o
A coup le o f score o f years, and this house w ill b e ju st like y o n d er
p lace on G rattan ’s H ill.
L ik e a youn g prodigal, the house begins to use its constitution
too e a r ly ; and w hen it should yet (in the shape o f carpenters and
painters) have all its m asters and guardians to w atch and educate it,
m y house on G rattan ’s H ill m ust be a m an at once, and e n jo y all the
privileges o f strong health ! I w ould la y a guinea they w ere m akin g
p unch in that house before th ey could keep the rain out o f i t ! that
th ey had a dinner party and ball before the floors were firm o r the
w ainscots painted, and a fine tester-bed in the b est room , w here m y
lad y m ight catch co ld in state, in the m idst o f yaw n ing chim n eys,
creakin g w indow-sashes, and sm oking plaster.
N o w lo o k at the door o f the coach-house, w ith its first co a t o f
p ain t seen yet, and a variety o f patches to k eep the feeble barrier
together. T h e loft was arched once, but a great corn er has tum bled
a t one end, leavin g a gash that unites the w indow s w ith the co a ch
house door. Several o f the arch-stones are rem oved, and the w h o le
edifice is about as ram bling and disorderly as— as the arrangem ent
o f this b o o k, say. V e r y tall tufts o f m ouldy moss are on the draw
ing-room w indow s, with lo n g w hite heads o f grass. A s I am sketch
in g this — honk I— a great lean sow com es tram pling through the
slush w ithin the court-yard, breaks dow n the flim sy apparatus o f
rattling boards and stones w hich had passed for the ga te, and
w alks w ith her seven squeakin g little ones to disport on the grass
on the hill.
T h e drawing-room o f the tenem ent m entioned ju st now , w ith its
pictures, and pulleyless w indow s and lo ckless doors, was ten an ted by
a friend w ho lodged there w ith a sick w ife and a coup le o f little
ch ild re n ; one o f w hom was an infant in arms. I t is not, how ever,
the lodger— w ho is an E n glishm an— ^but the kin d lan d lad y and her
fam ily w ho m ay w'ell be described here— ^for their lik e are hard ly to
b e found on the other side o f the Channel. M rs. F agan is a yo u n g
w idow w ho has seen better days, and that portrait o ver th e grand
m antelpiece is the picture o f her husband that is gon e, a handsom e
yo u n g man, and w ell to do at one tim e as a m erchant. B u t the w idow
(she is as pretty, as lady-like, as kin d, and as neat as e ve r w idow
c o u ld be,) has little left to live upon b u t th e rent o f her lodgin gs
and her fu rn itu re; o f w hich w e h ave seen the b est in the draw ing
room.
A F A M IL Y SKETCH.
8i
She has th ree fine children o f her o w n : there is M in ny, and
K atey, and P a tsey , and they o ccu p y indifferently the dining-room on
the ground flo o r o r the kitch en o p p o s ite ; w here in the m idst o f a
great sm oke sits an old nurse, b y a co p p er o f potatoes w hich is alw ays
bubbling and full.
P a tsey swallows quantities o f ’ them , that’s c le a r ;
his cheeks are as red and shining as apples, and w hen he roars, you
are sure that his lungs are in the finest condition. N e x t do o r to the
kitchen is the pantry, and there is a bucketful o f the before-m en
tioned fruit, and a grand service o f chin a for dinner and d e sse rt
The kin d yo u n g w idow shows them w ith no little pride, and says
with reason that there are few lodging-houses in C o rk that can m atch
such chin a as that. T h e y are relics o f the h ap py o ld tim es w hen
Fagan k ep t his g ig and horse, doubtless, and had his friends to dine
— the h ap py prosperous days w hich she has exch an ged for p o verty
and the sad b la ck gown.
P a tsey, M inny, and K a te y have m ade friends w ith the little
English p eo p le up stairs; the eld er o f whom , in the course o f a
month, has as fine a M unster brogue as ever trolled o ver the lips o f an y
bom C o rkagian . T h e old nurse carries out the w hole united party to
walk, w ith the exception o f the E n glish baby, that jum ps abou t in
the arm s o f a countryw om an o f her own. T h a t is, unless one o f the
four M iss F agan s takes h e r ; for four o f them there are, four other
Miss F ag an s, from eighteen dow nw ards to fo u rte e n ;— handsom e,
fresh, lively , dancing, boun cing girls. Y o u m ay alw ays see two or
three o f them sm iling at the parlour-window, and they laugh and
turn a w a y their heads w hen an y yo u n g fellow lo o ks and adm ires
them.
N o w , it stands to reason that a youn g w idow o f five-and-twenty
can’t b e the m other o f four youn g ladies o f eighteen d o w n w ard s; and,
if a n y b o d y w ants to kn ow how they com e to be livin g w ith the poor
w idow th eir cousin, the answ er is, they are on a visit. P e g g y the
m aid says their papa is a gentlem an o f property, and can “ spend his
eight hundred a year.”
W h y d o n ’t th ey rem ain w ith the old gentlem an then, instead o f
quartering o n the poor youn g w idow, w ho has her own little m ouths
to feed ? T h e reason is, the old gentlem an has go n e and married his
cook; an d the daughters have quitted him in a b ody, refusing to sit
dow n to dinner w ith a person w ho ought b y rights to b e in the
kitchen.
T h e w hole fam ily (the F agan s are o f g o o d fam ily) tak e
82
the quarrel up, and here are the yo u n g p eop le under shelter o f the
widow.
F o u r m errier tender-hearted girls are n ot to b e foun d in all
Ir e la n d ; and the only subject o f con ten tion am ongst them is, w hich
shall have the E n glish b a b y : they are nursing it, and singing to it,
and dandlin g it b y turns all d ay long. W h en th ey are n ot singing to
the baby, th ey are singing to an old p ia n o : such an o ld w iry,
jinglin g, w h eezy p ia n o !
It has p len ty o f w ork, pla}dng jig s and
son g accom panim ents bebveen m eals, and actin g as a sideboard at
dinner.
I am n ot sure that it is at rest at night e ith e r ; b u t have a
shrewd suspicion that it is turned into a four-post bed.
follow ing re a s o n :—
A n d for the
E v e ry afternoon, at four o ’clo ck , you see a tall old gen tlem an
w alkin g leisurely to the house. H e is dressed in a lo n g great-coat
with huge pockets, and in the huge p o ckets are sure to b e som e b ig
apples for all the children— the E n glish child am ongst the rest, an d
she gen erally has the biggest one. A t seven o ’clo ck , y o u are sure to
hear a deep vo ice shouting “ P a g g y ! ” in an awful tone— ît is the o ld
gentlem an callin g for his “ m a te r ia ls ;” w'hich P e g g y brings w ith ou t
a n y farther a d o ; and a glass o f punch is m ade, no doubt, for every
body. T h e n the party se p a ra te s: the children and the o ld nurse
have lo n g since tram pled u p s ta irs ; P e g g y has the k itch en fo r h er
sleeping-apartm ent, and the four yo u n g ladies m ake it out som eh ow
in the b a ck drawing-room. A s for the o ld gentlem an, h e rep oses in
the p a rlo u r; and it m ust be som ew here ab ou t the piano, for there is
no furniture in the room excep t that, a table, a few old chairs, a w orkb o x , and a couple o f album s.
T h e E nglish girl’s father m et her in the street one d ay, ta lk in g
confidentially with a tall old gentlem an in a great-coat.
“ W h o ’s
yo u r f r ie n d ? ” says the E nglishm an afterw ards to the little girl.
“ D o n ’t you kn ow him, p a p a ? ” said the child in the purest bro g u e.
“ D o n ’t you kn o w h im ?— T h a t ’ s U n c l e J a m e s ! ” A n d so it w a s :
in this kind, poor, generous, bare-backed house, th e E n g lish ch ild
found a set o f new re la tio n s ; little rosy brothers and sisters to p la y
with, kin d w om en to take the p lace o f th e alm ost d y in g m other, a
go o d old U n cle Jam es to brin g her hom e app les and care fo r h e r—
o n e and all ready to share their little pittance w ith her, an d to g iv e
her a p lace in their sim ple friendly hearts.
G o d A lm ig h ty b less the
w idow and her m ite, and all the kin d souls under her r o o f !
A F A M IL Y SKETCH.
83
H o w m uch goodn ess and gen erosity— how m uch purity, fine
fe e lin g — nay, happiness— m ay dw ell am ongst the poor w hom w e have
b e e n ju s t lo o k in g a t !
H e re , thank G o d , is an instance of. this h ap py
a n d ch eerfu l p o v e r ty : and it is go o d to lo o k, w hen one can, at the
h e a r t th at beats under the threadbare coat, as w ell as the tattered old
ga rm e n t itself. W ell, please heaven, som e o f those p eop le whom w e
h a v e b een lo o k in g at, are as good, and n o t m uch less h a p p y : b ut
th o u g h they are accustom ed to their want, the stranger does not
re co n cile h im self to it q u ic k ly ; and I hope no Irish reader w ill b e
offen d ed a t m y speakin g o f this p overty, n ot with scorn or ill-feeling,
b u t w ith h earty sym pathy and good-w ill.
O n e w ord m ore regarding the W id o w F agan ’s house.
AVhen
. P e g g y b ro u gh t in coals for the drawnng-room fire, she carried them —
in w hat d o yo u th in k ? “ In a coal-scuttle, to b e sure,” says the
E n glish reader, dow n on yo u as sharp as a needle.
N o , y o u clever Englishm an, it w asn’t a coal-scuttle.
“ W e ll, then, it w as in a fire-shovel,” says that brightest o f w its,
guessing again.
N o , it wasn't a fire-shovel, yo u heaven-born g e n iu s ; and you
nught gu ess from this until M rs. Sn ooks called yo u up to coffee, and
you w ou ld n ev er find out. It was in som ething w hich I h ave already
described in M rs. F agan ’s pantry.
“ O h , I h ave yo u now , it was the b u ck et w here the potatoes w e r e ; .
the th la tte m ly w e t c h ! ” says Snooks.
W 'rong again ! P e g g y brou ght up the co a ls— in a c h i n a p l a t e !
S n o o k s tu rn e d . quite w hite w ith surprise, and alm ost chokes him
self w ith h is port.
“ W e ll,” says he, “ o f all the wum countw ith that
I ever w ead of, hang m e i f Irelan d ithn’t the wummetht. C o a lth in a
p la te ! M aw yan n , do yo u hear that ? I n Irelan d th ey alw ayth th e n d
up their co a lth in a p la t e ! ”
THE IRISH SK E TCH B O O K
84
CH APTER
FROM
CORK
TO
BANTRY ;
WITH
AN
V III.
ACCOUNT OF THE
CITY
OF
SKIBBEREEN.
T h a t ligh t four-inside, four-horse co ach , the
“ Skibbereen P erse
veran ce,” brought me fifty-two m iles to-day, for the sum o f three-andsixpence, through a coun try w hich is, as usual, som ew hat difficult to
describe. W e issued out o f C o rk b y the western road, in w hich, as the
G uide-book says, there is som ething very im posing. “ T h e m agn ificen ce
o f the coun ty court-house, the extent, solidity, and characteristic stern
ness o f the coun ty ga o l,” were visible to us for a few m inutes ; w hen,
turning aw ay southward from the pleasant banks o f the stream , the *
road took us towards B andon , through a coun try that is b are and
ragged-looking, but yet green and p r e tty ; and it alw ays seem s to me,
lik e the people, to lo o k cheerful in spite o f its w retchedness, or, m ore
correctly, to lo o k tearful and cheerful at the sam e time.
T h e coach, like alm ost every other p ublic vehicle I h ave seen in
Ireland, w as full to the brim and o ver it.
W h at can send these rest
less p eop le travelling and hurrying about from p lace to p lace as they
do ? I have heard one or tw o gentlem en hint that they had “ busi
ness " at this p lace or t h a t; and found aftenvards that one ^-as go in g
ra couple o f score o f m iles to lo o k at a mare, another to exam ine a
setter-dog, and so on. I did n ot m ake it m y business to ask o n w hat
êrrand the gentlem en on the co ach w ere b o u n d ; though tw o o f them ,
; seeing an Englishm an, very good-naturedly began ch alkin g out a route
for him to take, and show ing a sort o f interest in his affairs w hich is
j io t with us gen erally exhibited. T h e coach, too, seem ed to h ave the
•elastic hospitality o f som e Irish h o u s e s ; it accom m odated an alm ost
im possible number. F o r the greater part o f th e jo u rn ey the little
guard sat on the ro o f am ong the carpet-bags, holdin g in o n e han d a
huge tambour-frame, in the other a band-box m arked “ F o gg arty ,
H a tter.” (W hat is there m ore ridiculous in the nam e o f F o gg arty than
in that o f Sm ith ? and yet, had Sm ith been the nam e, I n ever ^ o u ld
have laughed at or rem arked it.) P resently b y his side clam bered a
green-coated policem an w ith his carbine, an d w e h ad a talk a b o u t the
THE VITRIOL-THROWERS.
85
vitriol-throwers at C o rk , and the sentence ju st passed upon them.
The p o p u lace has d ecid ed ly taken part w ith the vitriol-th ro w ers:
parties o f dragoon s w ere obliged to surround the avenues o f the
court; and th e ju d g e w ho sentenced them was abused as he entered
his carriage, an d called an old villain, and m any other opprobrious
names.
T h is ca se th e reader very lik e ly rem em bers.
A saw-mill w'as
established a t C o rk , b y w hich som e four hundred saw yers w ere
thrown out o f em ploy. In order to deter the proprietors o f this and
all other m ills from using such instrum ents further, the sawyers
determined to execute a terrible ven gean ce, and cast lots am ong
themselves w hich o f their b o d y should
fling vitriol into the
faces o f
the mill-owTiers. T h e m en w ho w ere
chosen b y the lot w ere to
execute this horrible office on pain o f death, and did so,— frightfully
burning and blin d in g one o f the gen tlem en ow ning the m ill. G reat
rewards w ere offered for the apprehension o f the crim inals, and at last
one o f th eir ow n b o d y cam e forward as an approver, and the four
principal actors in this dreadful outrage w ere sen ten ced to b e trans
ported fo r life. C row ds o f the ragged adm irers o f these m en w ere
stan din g round “ the m agnificent co u n ty court-house ** as w e passed
the b u ild in g. O urs is a strange life indeed. W h at a history
of
p o v e rty and barbarity, and crim e and
even kindness, was that b y
w h ich w e passed before the m agnificent co u n ty court-house, at e ig h t
m iles a n hour !
\Vhat a chap ter m ight a philosopher w rite on them !:
L o o k y o n d e r at those two hundred ragged fellow -subjects o f y o u r s :
th e y are kin d, good, pious, brutal, starving. I f the priest tells them ,
there is scarce an y pen an ce they w ill not p e rfo rm ; there is scarcely
an y p itch o f misery’ w hich th e y have n ot been know n to endure, nor
any d egree o f gen erosity o f w hich they are not capable : but if a m an
com es am ong these people, and can afford to take land over their
heads, or i f he invents a m achine w hich can w ork m ore econ om ically
than their labour, th ey w ill shoot the man dow n w ithout mercy,,
murder him , or put him to horrible tortures, and glo ry alm ost in w’hat
they do. T h e re stand the m e n ; they are o n ly separated from us b y
a few p a c e s : they are as fond o f their m others and children as w e
a r e ; th eir gratitude for sm all kindnesses shown to them is extra
o rd in a ry ; th e y are Christians as w e a re ; b ut interfere with their
interests, an d they w ill m urder yo u w ithout pity.
I t is n o t reven ge so m uch w hich these p o or fellow s take, as a
86
brutal ju stice o f their ow ti. N o w , w ill it seem a p arado x to say, in
regard to them and their m urderous system , that the w ay to p u t an
end to the latter is to
kill them no more I
L e t the priest b e a b le to
g o am ongst them and say, T h e law holds a m an’s life so sacred that
it w ill on no account take it w ay. N o m an, n or b o d y o f m en, has
a right to m eddle with human l i f e : n ot the C om m on s o f E n gla n d
an y m ore than the C om m on s o f T ipp erary. T h is m ay co st tw'O or
three lives, probably, until such tim e as the system m ay co m e to
b e know n and u n d e rsto o d ; but w hich w ill b e the g rea test econ o m y
o f blo o d in the end ?
B y this time the vitriol-m en w ere lo n g passed aw ay, and w e b egan
n ex t to talk about the C o rk and L on d o n stea m b o ats; w hich are
m ade to pay, on acco u n t o f the num ber o f paupers w hom the bo ats
brin g o ver from L o n d o n at the charge o f that city.
T h e passengers
found here, as in everything else alm ost w hich I have seen as y et,
another instance o f the in jury w hich E n gland inflicts on them . “ A s
long as these m en are strong and can w ork,” says one, “ yo u k e ep
t h e m ; w hen they are in bad health, you fling them upon us.” N o r
could I con vin ce him that the agricultural gen tlem en w ere p erfectly
free to stay at hom e if they lik e d : that w e did for them w hat w as
don e for E nglish paupers— sent them , nam ely, as far as p ossible on
the w ay to their p a rish e s ; nay, that som e o f them (as I h ave seen
w ith m y own eyes) actu ally saved a bit o f m on ey during the harvest,
and to o k this cheap w ay o f co n veyin g it and them selves to their
hom es again.
B ut nothing w ould co n vin ce the gentlem an that
there w as n ot som e w icked schem ing on the part o f the E n glish
in the b u s in e s s ; and, in deed, I find upon alm ost every other sub
je c t a p eevish and puerile suspiciousness w hich is w orthy o f F ra n ce
itself.
B y this tim e w e cam e to a p retty village called Innishannon, u p o n
the n oble banks o f the Band on r iv e r ; leadin g for three m iles b y a
great num ber o f pleasant gen tlem en ’s seats to B andon town.
A good
num ber o f large m ills w ere on the banks o f th e s tre a m ; an d the ch ie f
part o f them, as in C arlo w , useless.
O ne m ill w e saw w as to o sm all
for the ow ner’s great sp e cu la tio n s; and so he built another and
larger o n e : the b ig mUl cost him 10,000/.,.for w hich his brothers
w en t s e c u rity ; and, a law suit b e in g given against the m ill-owner, the
tw o m ills stopped, the tw o brothers w ent off, and y o n fine o ld house,
in the style o f A n n e, w ith terraces and tall ch im n eys— o n e o f the
BAN D O N
87
o ld e s t country-houses I have seen in Irelan d — is now in habited b y the
n atu ral son o f the mill-owner, w ho has m ore such interesting progeny.
T h e n w e cam e to a tall, com fortable house, in a plantation ; opposite
to w h ich w as a ston e castle, in its shrubberies on tlie other side o f the
ro a d
T h e tall house in the plantation shot the opposite side o f the
ro a d in a duel, and n early killed him ; o n w hich the opposite side o f
th e ro a d built this castle, in order to plague the tall house.
T h e y are
g o o d friends n o w ; b ut the opposite side o f the road ruined him self in
buildin g his h o u se . I asked, “ Is the house finished ?”— A gooddeal
o f it isP w as the answ er.— A n d then w e cam e to a brew ery, about
w hich w as a sim ilar story o f extravagan ce and r u in ; but, w hether
before or after entering Bandon, does not matter.
W e did not, it appears, pass through the best part o f B a n d o n : I
lo o k ed a lo n g o n e side o f the houses in tlie long street through w hich
we w ent, to see i f there was a w indow w ithout a broken pane o f glass,
and ca n d eclare on m y co n scien ce that every single w indow had
three b ro k en panes. T h e re w e chan ged
surrounded, as usual, b y b e g g a r s ; then we
still m ore w retch ed and ruinous than the
very large letters, is called d o y l e s t r e e t :
a p lace ca lled D unm anw ay.
horses, in a m arket-place,
passed through a suburb
first street, and w hich, in
and the next stage w as at
88
H ere it w as m arket-day, too, and, as usual, no la ck o f a tte n d a n ts :
swarms o f peasants in their blue cloaks, squatting b y their stalls here
an d
few
an d
and
there.
T h ere is a little m iserable o ld m arket-house, w here a
w om en were selling b u tte r m ilk ; another, b u llo ck s’ hearts, liver,
such like scraps o f m eat; another had dried m ackerel on a b o a rd ;
p len ty o f people huckstering o f course. R o u n d the co ach cam e
crow ds o f raggery, and blackguards faw ning for m oney.
I w on der
w ho gives them a n y ! I have n ever seen an y one giv e y e t ; and w ere
they n ot even so num erous that it w ould be im possible to gratify them
all, there is som ething in their cant and supplications to the L o r d so
disgusting to me, that I could n ot give a halfpenny.
In regard o f pretty faces, m ale or fem ale, this road is v e ry
unfavourable. I have not seen one for fifty m ile s ; though, as it w as
m arket-day all alon g the road, w e h ave h ad the op portunity to
exam ine vast num bers o f countenances.
T h e w om en are, fo r th e
m ost part, stunted, short, with flat T artar f a c e s ; and the m en n o
handsom er.
E ve ry w om an has bare legs, o f c o u r s e ; and as th e
w eather is fine, they are sitting outside their cabins, with the p ig, and
the geese, and the children sporting around.
Before m any doors w e saw a little flock o f these useful anim als,
and the fam ily p ig alm ost everyw here : you m ight see him brow sing
and p oking along the hedges, his fore and hind leg attached w ith a
w isp o f hay to ch e ck his propensity to roam ing. H e re an d there
w ere a sm all brood o f turkeys ; now and then a coup le o f sheep o r a
single one grazin g upon a scanty field, o f w hich the ch ie f crop seem ed
to be thistles and s to n e ; and, b y the side o f the cottage, the potatofield always.
T h e character o f the landscape for the m ost part is bare an d sad ;
excep t here and there in the n eighbourhood o f the towns, w here
peop le have taken a fan cy to plant, and w here nature has helped
them, as it alm ost alw ays w ill in this country. I f w e saw a field w ith
a go o d hedge to it, w e w ere sure to see a go o d crop inside. M a n y
a field w as there that had n either crop nor hedge. W e passed b y
and over m any pretty streams, running bright through brilliant em erald
m e a d o w s : and I saw a thousand charm ing pictures, w hich w an t as
y et an Irish Berghem . A bright road w indin g up a h i l l ; on it a
coun try cart, w ith its load, stretching a hu ge s h a d o w ; the before
m entioned em erald pastures and silver rivers in the fo re g ro u n d ; a
n oble sweep o f hills rising up from them , and contrasting their m agni
THE ROAD FROM CORK TO BAN TRY.
89
ficent purple w ith the g r e e n ; in the extrem e distance the clear co ld
outline o f som e far-off m ountains, and the w hite clouds tum bled
about in the b lu e sky overhead. I t has n o d oubt struck all persons
who love to lo o k at nature, how different the skies are in different
countries. I fan cy Irish o r F ren ch clouds are as characteristic as
Irish or F ren ch landscapes.
I t w ould be w ell to h ave a daguerreo
type and g e t a series o f each. Som e w ay b eyo n d D u nm an w ay the
road takes us through a n oble savage coun try o f rocks and heath.
Nor must the p ain ter forget lo n g b la ck tracts o f b o g here and there,
and the w ater glisten in g brightly at the p laces w here the tu rf has been
cut away. A d d to this, and chiefly b y the banks o f rivers, a ruined
old castle o r t w o : som e w ere built b y the D an es, it is said. T h e
O’Connors, th e O ’M ahonys, the O ’D riscolls w ere lords o f m any
others, and their ruined towers m ay b e seen here and alon g the sea.
Near D u nm an w ay that great coach, “ T h e Skibbereen In dustry,”
dashed b y us at seven m iles an h o u r ; a w ondrous v e h ic le : there
were gaps betw een every one o f the panels ; you could see daylight
through-and-through i t
L ik e our m achine, it w as full, with three
complementary sailors on the roof, as little harness as possible to the
horses, and as lo n g stages as horses can w ell endure : ours w ere each
eighteen-mile stages. A b o u t eight m iles from Skibbereen a one-horse
car m et us, and carried aw ay an offshoot o f passengers lo Bantry.
Five passengers and their luggage, and a very wild, steep road : all
this had on e p oor little p o n y to overcom e ! A b o u t the towns there
were som e show o f gen tlem en ’s cars, sm art and w ell appointed, and
)n the road great num bers o f country carts : an arm y o f them m et us
» m in g from Skibbereen , and laden with grey sand for manure.
B efore yo u enter the city o f Skibbereen , the tall new poor-house
)resents its e lf to th e eye o f the tra ve ller; o f the com m on m odel,
)eing a bastard-G othic edifice, w ith a profusion o f cottage-om ê (is
vOttage m asculine or fem inine in F ren ch ?)— o f cottage-ornde roofs,
and pinn acles, and insolent-looking stacks o f chim neys. It is built for
900 peop le, but as y e t not m ore than 400 have been in duced to live
in i t ; the beggars preferring the freedom o f their precarious trade to
the dism al certain ty within its walls. N e x t w e com e to the chapel, a
very large, respectable-lookin g buildin g o f dark-grey s t o n e ; and
presently, beh o ld, b y the crow d o f blackguards in waiting, “ T h e
Skibbereen P erseverance ” has found its goal, and you are in ducted
to th e “ h o tel ” opposite.
90
Som e gentlem en were at the coach, besides those o f lo w er degree.
H e re was a fat fellow with large w hiskers, a geranium , an d a c ig a r ;
yo n d er a tall handsom e old m an that I w ould sw ear w as a dragoon
on half-pay. H e had a little cap, a T ag lio n i coat, a pair o f beautiful
spaniels, and a pair o f knee-breeches w hich show ed a v e ry handsom e
old l e g ; and his o b ject seem ed to be to invite everyb o d y to dinner
as th ey g o t o ff the coach. N o doubt he has seen the “ Sk ib b ereen
P erseverance ” com e in ever since it was a “ Perseverance.” I t is
w onderful to think w hat w ill interest men in prisons o r co u n try
to w n s !
T h e re is a dirty coffee-room , with a strong sm ell o f w h is k y ;
indeed three yo u n g “ m a te ria lists” are em ployed at the m o m e n t:
and I h ereby b e g to offer an a p o lo gy to three other gen tlem en — the
captain, another, and the gen tlem an o f the geranium , w ho h a d
caugh t hold o f a sketching-stool w hich is m y property, an d w ere
stretching it, and sitting upon it, and w ondering, and talk in g o f it,
w hen the ow ner cam e in, and they b oun ced o ff to their seats lik e so
m any school-boys. D irty as the p lace w'as, this W'as no reason w’h y it
should n ot produce an exuberant dinner o f trouts and K e rr y m u tto n ;
after w hich D an the w aiter, holding up a din gy decanter, ask s how
m uch w'hisky I ’d have.
T h a t calculation n eed n ot b e m ade h e r e ; and i f a m an sleeps
well, has he any need to quarrel w ith the appointm ents o f h is bed
room , an d sp y out the deficiencies o f the land ? A s it w as Sunday,
it wâs im possible for m e to say w hat sort o f shops “ the a ctiv e and
flourishing towm ” o f Skibbereen contains. T h e re w'ere som e o f the
architectural sort, viz. w ith gilt letters and crack ed m ouldings, and
others in to w hich I thought I saw the cow s w a lk in g ; but it w as o n ly
into their little cribs and p ad d ocks at the b a ck o f the shops. T h e re
is a trim W esleyan chapel, w ithout an y broken w in d o w s; a n eat
ch u rch standing m odestly on one side. T h e L o w er Street craw ls a lon g
the river to a considerable extent, havin g by-streets and bo u levard s
o f cabins here and there.
T h e peop le cam e flockin g into the p lace b y hundreds, a n d y o u
saw their blue cloaks dotting the road and the bare op en p lain s
beyon d.
T h e men cam e w ith shoes and stockings to-day, the
w om en all bare-legged, and m any o f them m ight b e seen w ashin g
their feet in the stream before th ey w-ênt up to the chap el.
The
street seem ed to be lined on either side w ith blue clo ak s, squattin g
SKIBBEREEN.
91
along th e doorw ays as is their w ont. A m o n g these, num berless cow s
were w 'alking to an d fro, and pails o f m ilk passing, and here and
there a h o u n d or tw o w en t stalkin g about.
D a n the w aiter says
they a re hunted b y the handsom e old captain w ho was yesterd ay
in vitin g eve ry b o d y to dinner.
A n y b o d y at eight o ’clo ck o f a Sun day m orning in sum m er m ay b e
h o ld th e a b o v e scen e from a bridge ju st outside the town. H e m ay
a d d to it the river, w ith one or tw o barges lying idle upon i t ; a flag
fly in g a t w hat lo o ks like a custom -house ; bare coun try all a ro u n d ; and
th e ch a p el before him , w ith a swarm o f the dark figures round about it.
I w en t into it, n ot w ithout awe (for, as I confessed before, I
a lw a y s feel a sort o f trem or on go in g into a C a th o lic p lace o f
w o r s h ip : the candles, and altars, and m ysteries, the priest and his
robes, an d nasal chaunting, an d w onderful genuflexions, w ill frighten
m e as lo n g as I live).
T h e chapel-yard was filled with m en and
w o m e n ; a coup le o f shabby old beadles w ere at the gate, with
co p p er shovels to co llect m o n e y ; and inside the chapel four or five
h u ndred p eo p le were on their knees, and scores m ore o f the bluem antles cam e in, dropping their curtsies as they entered, and then
taking their p laces on the flags.
A n d n ow the pangs o f hunger begin n in g to m ake them selves felt,
it b e ca m e n ecessary for your hum ble servant (after m aking several
useless application s to a bell, w hich properly declined to w ork on
Sundays) to m ake a personal descen t to the inn-kitchen, w here w as
not a b a d study for a painter. It was a huge room , with a peat fire
burn in g, and a staircase w alkin g up one side o f it, on w hich stair was
a d am sel in a partial though b y no m eans picturesque dishabille.
T h e co o k had ju st com e in w ith a great frothing pail o f m ilk, and sat
w ith her arms fo ld e d ; the ostler’s b o y sat dangling his legs from
th e t a b le ; the ostler w as dandlin g a n oble little b o y o f a year old, at
w h o m M rs. C o o k likew ise grinned delighted.
H ere, too, sat M r.
D a n the w a ite r; and n o w onder the breakfast was d elayed , for all
th ree o f these w orthy dom estics seem ed delighted w ith the in fa n t
H e was handed o ver to the gen tlem an ’s arms for the space o f
th irty se co n d s; the gen tlem an b ein g the father o f a fam ily, and o f
course an am ateur.
“ S a y D a n for the gen tlem an ,” says the deligh ted cook.
“ D a d a ,” says the b a b y ; at w hich the assem bly grinned with j o y :
a n d D a n prom ised I should have m y breakfast “ in a hurry.”
92
B ut o f all the wonderful things to b e seen in S k ibbereen , D a n ’s
pantry is the m ost w o n d e rfu l: every article within is a m akesh ift
and has been ingeniously p erverted from its original destination
H e re lie bread, blackin g, fresh-butter, tallow -candles, d irty k n iv e s
all in the sam e cigar-box w ith snuff, m ilk, co ld bacon , brow n-sugar
b ro k e n teacups and bits o f soap. N o pen can d escribe that esta
blishm ent, as no E n glish im agination could have co n ceiv ed i t
But
l o ! the sk y has cleared after a furious fall o f rain— (in com p lian ce
w ith D a n ’s statem ent to that effect, “ that the w eather w ou ld b e fine ” )
— and a car is w aiting to carry us to L oughine.
A lth o u gh the description o f L ou gh in e can m ake but a p o o r figure
in a b o o k , the ride thither is w ell w orth the traveller’s short labou r.
Y o u pass b y one o f the cabin-streets out o f the tow n in to a co u n try
w hich for a m ile is rich w ith grain, though bare o f t r e e s ; then through
a b o g g y b lea k district, from w hich you enter into a sort o f sea o f
rocks, w ith patches o f herbage here and there. B efore the traveller,
alm ost all the wây, is a huge p ile o f purple m ountain, on w h ich , as
one com es nearer, one perceives num berless w aves and b reaks, as
yo u see sm all w aves on a billow in the s e a ; then clam berin g up a
hill, w e look dow n upon a bright green flat o f land, w ith the la k e
b eyo n d it, girt round b y grey m elan choly hills. T h e w’ater m a y b e a
m ile in e x t e n t ; a cabin tops the m ountain here and th e r e ; ge n tle
m en have erected one or tw o anchorite pleasure-houses on th e banks,
as cheerful as a summer-house w ould b e on Salisbury P lain . I felt
n ot sorry to have seen this lo n ely lake, and still happier to le a v e it.
T h e re it lies w ith crags all round it, in the m idst o f desolate p la in s :
it escapes som ew here to the s e a ; its w aters are s a lt: half-a-dozen
bo ats lie here and there upon its banks, and w e saw a sm all crew o f
bo ys plashing abou t and swim m ing in it, laughing and yellin g. I t
seem ed a sham e to disturb the silen ce so.
T h e crow d o f sw’aggering “ g e n ts ” (I d o n ’t kn o w the corresp ond
in g phrase in the A n g lo-Irish vocabulary to express a sh abby d a n d y )
aw aiting the C o rk m ail, w hich kin d ly go es tw enty m iles out o f its w ay
to accom m odate the town o f Skibbereen , was quite extraordinary.
T h e little street was quite b lo ck e d up w ith sh ab b y gen tlem en , and
shabby beggars, aw aiting this daily phenom enon. T h e man w h o h a d
driven us to L ou gh in e did n ot fail to ask for his fee as d r iv e r ; and
then, having received it, cam e forward in his ca p a city o f b o o ts and
received another rem uneration. T h e ride is desolate, bare, an d y e t
TH E B A N T R Y ROAD.
beautiful.
93
T h e re are a set o f hills that k eep one com p an y the w hole
w a y ; th e y w ere partially hidd en in a grey sky, w hich flung a general
hue o f m elan ch o ly too o ver the green coun try through w hich w e
passed. T h e re was o n ly one w retched village alon g the road, but no
lack o f p o p u la tio n : ragged p eo p le w ho issued from their cabins as
the c o a c h passed, o r w ere sitting b y the w ayside. E ve ry b o d y seem s
sittin g b y the w ayside h e r e : one n ever sees this general repose in
E n g la n d — a sort o f ragged la zy contentm ent. A ll the children seem
to b e o n the w atch for the c o a c h ; w aited very kn o w in gly and care
fu lly their opportunity, and then hung on b y scores behind.
W h at a
p lea su re to run o ver flinty roads w ith bare feet, to b e w hipped off,
a n d to -walk b a ck to the cabin a g a in ! T h e se w ere very different
co tta g e s to those n eat ones I had seen in K ild a re . T h e w retched
n ess o f them is quite painful to lo o k a t ; m any o f the potato-gardens
w ere h a lf du g up, and it is only the first w eek in A ugu st, near three
m onths before the p otato is ripe and at full g r o w th ; and the w inter
still s ix m onths away. T h e re were chapels occasion ally, and smart
new -built churches— one o f them has a congregation o f ten souls, the
co a ch m a n told me. W ould it not b e better that the clergym an should
re ce ive them in his room , an d that the church-building m oney should
be b e sto w ed otherw ise ?—
A t len gth, after w inding up all sorts o f dism al hills sp eckled with
wTCtched hovels, a ruinous m ill every now and then, b la ck bog-lands,
and sm all w indin g streams, breaking here and there into little falls,
w e co m e up on som e ground w ell tilled and planted, and descen ding
(at n o sm all risk from stum bling horses) a b lea k lo n g hill, we see the
T Oter before us, and turning to the right b y the handsom e little park
o f L o r d Bearhaven, enter Bantry. T h e harbour is beautiful. Sm all
m oun tain s in green undulations rising on the opposite s id e ; great
g rey ones farther b a c k ; a pretty island in the m idst o f the water,
w h ich is w onderfully b right and calm . A handsom e yacht, and tw o
o r three vessels w ith their S u n d a y colours out, w ere lying in the bay.
I t lo o k e d like a seaport scene at a theatre, gay, cheerful, neat, and
p icturesque.
A t a little distan ce the town, too, is very pretty.
T h e re are som e sm art houses on the quays, a handsom e court-house
as usual, a fine large hotel, and p len ty o f peop le flo ckin g round the
w onderful coach.
T h e tow n is m ost p icturesquely situated, clim bin g up a w ooded
hill, w ith num bers o f neat cottages here and there, an u g ly church
94
th e
IRISH SK E TC H B O O K
w ith an air o f pretension, and a large grave R o m a n C a th o lic ch ap el
the highest point o f the place. T h e M ain Street w as as usual thronged
w ith the squatting blu e cloaks, carryin g on their eager trade o f butter
m ilk and green apples, and such cheap wares. W ith the excep tion
o f this street and the quay, with their w hitew ashed and slated houses,
it is a town o f cabins. T h e w retchedness o f som e o f them is quite
c u r io u s : I tried to m ake a sketch o f a row w hich lean against an
old wrall,«and are built upon a ro ck that tum bles about in the oddest
and m ost fantastic shapes, w ith a braw ling w'aterfall dashing dow n a
channel in the midst. T h e se are, it appears,* the beggars’ h o u s e s :
any one m ay build a lo d ge against that w all, ren t-free; an d such
places wêre n ever seen ! A s for draw ing them , it w as in vain to t r y ;
one m ight as w ell m ake a sketch o f a bun dle o f rags. A n ordinary
p igsty in E n glan d is really m ore com fortable. M o st o f them w ere
not six feet lo n g or five feet high, built o f stones huddled together, a
h ole b ein g left for the p eop le to creep in at, a ruined thatch to keep
out som e little portion o f the rain. T h e occupiers o f these p laces sat
at their doors in tolerable contentm ent, or the children ca m e dow n
and w ashed their feet in the water. I declare I b elieve a H o tten to t
kraal has m ore com forts in i t : even to w rite o f the p lace m akes one
unhappy, and the w ords m ove slow. B ut in th e m idst o f all this
m isery there is an air o f actual ch eerfu ln ess; and g o b u t a few
score yards off, and these w retched hovels
picturesque and pleasing.
lying togeth er lo o k really
(
95
CH APTER
)
IX .
RAIXY DAYS AT GLENGARIFF.
A SMART two-horse car takes the traveller thrice a w eek from Bantry
to K illa rn e y , b y w ay o f G len ga riff and K en m are. U n lu ck ily, the
rain w as p ourin g dow n furiously as w e passed to the first-named
p la ce s, an d w e had o n ly opportunity to see a part o f the astonishing
b e a u ty o f the country. \ \ ^ t sends picturesque tourists to the R h in e
and S a xo n Sw itzerland ? w ithin five m iles round the p retty inn o f
G len g a riff there is a coun try o f the m agnificence o f w hich no p en can
give a n idea. I w ould like to b e a great prince, and brin g a train
o f p ain ters o ver to m ake, if th ey could, and a cco rd in g to their several
capabilities, a set o f pictures o f the place. M r. C resw ick w ould find
such riv u lets and w'aterfalls, surrounded b y a luxuriance o f foliage
and ve rd u re that o n ly his pen cil can im itate.
A s for M r. C aterm ole,
a red-shan ked Irishm an should carry his sketching-books to all sorts
o f w ild n o b le heights, and vast, ro ck y valleys, where he m ight please
h im se lf b y piling crag upon crag, and b y introducing, if he had a
m in d, som e o f the w ild figures w hich p eop led this coun try in old days.
T h e re is the Eagles* N est, for instance, regarding w hich the G u id e
b o o k g iv es a pretty legend. T h e Prince o f B antry b ein g con quered
b y the E n glish soldiers, fled aw ay, leavin g his Princess and children
to th e care o f a certain faithful follow er o f his, w ho w'as to p rovide
th em w ith refuge and food. B ut the w hole coun try was overrun b y
the c o n q u e r o rs ; all the flocks driven aw ay b y them , all the houses
ran sa ck ed , and the crops burnt o ff the ground, and the faithful servitor
did n o t k n o w w here he should find a m eal or a resting-place for the
0
u n h a p p y P rin cess *Donovan.
H e m ade, how ever, a sort o f shed b y the side o f a m ountain,
co m p o sin g it o f sods and stones so artfully that n o one could tell but
that it w as a part o f the hill it s e lf; and here, havin g speared o r other
w ise o b tain ed a salm on, he fed their H ighn esses for the first d a y ;
trusting to h eaven fo r a m eal w hen the salm on should b e ended.
T h e Prin cess O ’D o n o va n and her prin cely fam ily soon cam e to
an e n d o f th e fis h ; and cried out for som ething m ore.
96
So the faithful servitor, taking w ith him a rope and his little son
Shamus, m ounted up to the p eak w here the eagles r e s te d ; and, from
the spot to w hich he clim bed, saw their n est, and the y o u n g eaglets
in it, in a cleft below the precipice.
“ N o w ,” said he, “ Sham us m y son, you m ust take these thongs
w ith you, and I w ill let you down b y the rope ” (it w as a straw-rope,
w hich he had m ade him self, and though it m ight b e con sidered a
dangerous thread to hang b y in other countries, you’ll see p len ty o f
such contrivances in Irelan d to the present day).
“ I w'ill let you dow n b y the rope, and yo u m ust tie the thongs
round the n ecks o f the eaglets, not so as to ch o k e them , but to prevent
them from sw allow ing m uch.” S o Sham us w en t dow n and d id as his
father bade him , and cam e up again w hen the eaglets w ere doctored.
P resen tly the eagles cam e h o m e : one bringing a rabbit and the
other a grouse. T h e se they drop p ed into the nest for th e youn g
ones ; and soon after w ent aw ay in quest o f other adventures.
T h e n Shamus w ent dow n into the eagles’ n est again, gu tted the
grouse and rabbit, and left the garbage to the eaglets (as w as their
right), and brought aw ay the rest. A n d so the Princess and P rin ces
had gam e that night for their supper. H o w lo n g th ey lived in this
w ay, the G uide-book does not say : but let us trust that the P rin ce,
GLENGARIFF.
97
if he d id n ot co m e to his own again, was at least restored to his
family a n d d e cen tly m ediatized : and, for m y part, I have very little
doubt b u t that Sham us, the gallan t youn g eagle-robber, created a
favourable im pression upon one o f the youn g Princesses, and (after
many adven tures in w hich he distinguished him self,) was a ccep ted b y
her H ig h n ess for a husband, and her p rin cely parents for a gallant
son-in-law.
A n d here, w hile w e are travelling to G lengariff, and ordering
painters abou t w ith such p rin cely liberality (by the way, Mr. Stanfield
should h ave a b o at in the bay, and paint both rock and sea at his
ease), let m e m ention a w onderful, awful incident o f real life w hich
occurred on the road. A b o u t four m iles from Bantry, at a beautiful
wooded p lace, hard b y a m ill and w aterfall, up rides a gentlem an to
the car w ith his- luggage, go in g to K illa m e y races. T h e luggage
consisted o f a sm all carpet-bag and a pistol-case. A b o u t tw o m iles
farther on, a fellow stops the c a r : “ J oe,” says he, “ m y m aster is
going to ride to K illa m e y , so you please to take his luggage.”
The
luggage con sisted o f a small carpet-bag, and— a pistol-case as before.
Is this a gen tlem an ’s usual travelling b aggage in Irelan d ?
A s there is m ore rain in this coun try than in any other, and as, there
fore, n aturally the inhabitants should be inured to the weather, and m ade
.%) despise an in conven ien ce w hich th ey cannot avoid, the travellingcoDveyances are arranged so that you m ay get as m uch p ractice in
being w et as possible. T h e traveller’s baggage is stow ed in a p lace
between the tw o rows o f seats, and w hich is not inaptly called the w ell,
as in a ra in y season you m ight p o ssibly get a bucketful o f w ater out
o f that orifice. A n d I confess I saw, w ith a horrid satisfaction, the
pair o f pistol-cases lyin g in this m oist aperture, with w ater pouring
a b o v e them and lying belo w t h e m ; nay, prayed that all such w eapons
m igh t o n e d ay b e consigned to the sam e fate. B ut as the w aiter at
B antry, in his excessive zeal to serve m e, had sent m y portm anteau
b a c k to C o rk b y the coach, instead o f allow ing m e to
m e to K illa m e y , and as the rain had lo n g since begun
its e lf under the seat-cushion and through the w aterp roof
car, I drop p ed o ff at G lengariff, and dried the o n ly suit
carry it w ith
to insinuate
apron o f the
o f clothes I
had b y th e kitchen-fire. T h e inn is very p r e t t y : som e thom -trees
stand befo re it, w here m any bare-legged p eop le w ere lolling, in spite
. o f th e w eather. A beautiful b a y stretches out before the house, the
full tide w ashin g the th o ra -tre es; m ountains rise on either side o f the
7
98
little bay, and there is an island, w ith a castle in it, in the m idst, near
w hich a yacht w as m oored. B ut the m ountains w ere hard ly visible for
the mist, and the yacht, island, and castle lo o k ed as if th e y had b een
w ashed against the flat gray sky in Indian-ink.
T h e day did n ot clear up sufficiently to allo w m e to m ake an y
lo n g excursion about the p lace, or in deed to see a v e ry w id e prospect
round about i t : at a few hundred yards, m ost o f the o b jects w ere
e n velop ed in m is t ; but even this, for a lo ver o f the picturesque, had
its beautiful effect, for you saw the hills in the foreground p retty clear,
and covered with their w onderful green, w hile im m ediately behind
them rose an im m ense blue mass o f m ist and m ountain that served
to relieve (to use the painter’s phrase) the nearer objects. A n n e x e d
to the hotel is a flourishing garden, w here the vegetatio n is so great
that the landlord told m e it was all he could do to ch e ck the trees
from gro w in g: round about the bay, in several places, th e y co m e
clustering dow n to the w ater’s edge, nor does the salt-water interfere
w ith them.
W in din g up a hill to the right, as you quit the inn, is the beautiful
road to the cottage and park o f L o rd Bantry. O n e or tw o parties o n
pleasure ben t w ent so far as the house, and w ere partially co n so led
for the dreadful rain w hich presen tly poured dow n upon them , b y
wine, w hisky, and refreshm ents w hich the liberal ow n er o f th e
house sent out to them. I m y self had only go t a few hu ndred yard s
w hen the rain overtook m e, and sent m e for refuge into a shed, w here
a blacksm ith had arranged a rude furnace and bellow s, and w here he
w as at w ork, with a rough g illy to help him , and o f course a loun ger
o r tw o to lo o k on.
T h e scene was exceed in gly w ild and picturesque, and I to o k o u t a
sketch-book and began to draw. T h e blacksm ith w as at first v e ry
suspicious o f the operation w hich I had com m enced, n o r d id th e
p oor fellow ’s sternness at all yield until I m ade him a p resen t o f a
shilling to bu y to b a cco — w hen he, his friend, and his son b e cam e
good-hum oured, and said their little say. T h is w as the first sh illin g
he had earned these three y e a r s : he w as a sm all farmer, b u t w as
starved out, and had set up a forge here, and w as trying to g e t
few
a
p en ce. W h at struck m e was the great n um ber o f p eo p le a b o u t the
place. W e had at least tw enty visits w hile the sketch w as b e in g m a d e ;
cars, and single and double horsem en, w ere con tin ually p a s s in g ;
betw een the intervals o f the show er a co u p le o f ragged o ld w om en
THREE ENGLISH TOURISTS.
99
w o u ld cre e p out from som e h o le and display baskets o f green apples
for sale : w et or not, m en and w om en w ere lounging up and dow n the
ro ad . Y o u w ou ld h ave thought it w as a fair, and y et there was n ot
e>'en a v illa g e at this p lace, o n ly the inn and post-house, b y w hich the
cars to T ra le e pass thrice a w eek.
T h e w eather, instead o f m ending, on the second d a y was w'orse
than ever. A ll th e view had disappeared now under a rushing rain,
o f w h ich I n ever saw anything lik e the violence. W e were visited b y
five m aritim e— nay, buccaneering-looking gentlem en in m oustaches,
w ith fierce cap s and jackets, ju st landed from a y a c h t : and then the
c a r b ro u gh t us three Englishm en w et to the skin and thirsting for
w hisky-and-w ater.
A n d with these three E nglishm en a great scene occurred, such as
we rea d o f in Sm ollett’s and F ield in g’s inns. O n e was a fat old
gentlem an from C am brid ge— ^w'ho, I w as inform ed, w as a F ello w o f a
co lleg e in that university, but w hom I shrew dly su sp ect* to be butler
or stew ard o f the same.
T h e youn ger m en, burly, m anly, goodhum oured fellow s o f seventeen stone, w ere the nephews o f the .elder
— ^who, says one, “ could draw a ch e ck for his thousand pounds.”
Tw o-an d-tw enty years before, on landing at the Pigeon -H ouse at
D u blin, the old gentlem an had been cheated b y a carm an, and his
firm o p in ion seem ed to
be that all carm en— nay, all Irishm en—
were cheats.
A n d a sad p ro o f o f this depravity sp eedily show ed itse lf: for
having hired a three-horse car at K illa m e y , w hich was to carry them
to B antry, the En glishm en saw, w ith im m ense indignation, after they
had dru n k a series o f glasses o f w hisky, that the three-horse car had
been rem oved, a one-horse veh icle standing in its stead.
T h e ir w rath n o p en can describe. “ I tell yo u they are all so !”
shouted th e elder. “ W h en I landed at the P igeon -H ouse . . . .”
“ Bring m e a postch aise !” roars the second. “ W aiter, get som e m ore
w h isk y !” exclaim s the third. “ I f they don’t send us on w ith three
horses, I ’ll stop here for a w eek.” T h e n issuing, with his tw o youn g
friends, in to the passage, to harangue the populace assem bled there,
the e ld e r E nglishm an began a sp eech abou t dishonesty, “ d — d rogues
and th ie ve s, P ig eo n -H o u se : h e w as a gentlem an, and w ouldn’t b e
done, d— n his eyes an d everybody’s eyes.”
• T h e su sp icio n tu rn ed o u t to b e v e ry co rre ct.
U p o n the affrighted
T h e ge n tle m a n is th e resp ected
co o k o f C ------y a s I lea rn ed a fte rw ard s fro m a ca su al C a m b r id g e m an .
loo
landlord, w ho cam e to interpose, th ey all fell w ith great fe r o c ity : the
elder m an swearing, especially, that he “ w ould write to L o rd
L an sdow n e regarding his con duct, likew ise to L o rd B andon , also to
L o rd B a n t r y : he w as a g e n tle m a n ; he’d been ch eated in the y ear
18 15 , on his first landing at the P ig eo n -H o u se : and, d — n the Irish,
they were all alik e.” A fte r roaring and cursing for half-an-hour, a
gentlem an at the door, seeing the m eek bearing o f the lan d lo rd — ^who
stood quite lost and pow erless in th e whirlw ind o f rage th at h a d been
excited about his luckless ears— said, “ I f m en cursed and sw ore in
that w ay in his house, he w ould kn ow how to put them o u t ”
“ Pu t me o u t !” says one o f the youn g men, p lacin g h im self b efore
*the fat old blasphem er his relative. “ Put me out, m y fine fellow ! ”
But it was evident the Irishm an did not like his custom er. “ P u t me
o u t ! ” roars the old gentlem an, from behind his yo u n g p rotector.
“
m y eyes, who arc yot/, sir? w ho are you, sir? I insist on
know ing w ho you are.”
“ A n d who are you ? ” asks the Irishm an.
“ Sir, I ’m a gentlem an, and />ay my way ! and as soon as I get
into Bantry, I swear I ’ll write a letter to L o rd Bandon B an try, an d
com plain o f the treatm ent I h ave received here.”
N ow , as the unhappy landlord had not said one single w ord, and
as, on the contrary, to the annoyance o f the w hole house, the stou t
o ld gentlem an from C am bridge had been shouting, raging, an d cursing
for two hours, I could not help, like a great ass as I was, co m in g
forward and (thinking the landlord m ight be a tenant o f L o rd B antry’s)
saying, “ W ell, sir, if you write and say the landlord has b e h a v ed ill,
I will write to say that he has acted w ith extraordinary forbearance
and civility.”
O f o o l ! to interfere in disputes w here one set o f the disputants
have drunk half-a-dozen glasses o f w hisky in the m iddle o f the d a y !
N o sooner had I said this than the other yo u n g man cam e a n d fell
upon me, and in the course o f a few m inutes found leisure to te ll m e
“ that I was no gentlem an ; that I was asham ed to give m y nam e, o r
say where I lived ; that I was a liar, and didn’t live in L o n d o n , an d
couldn ’t m ention the nam e o f a single respectable person t h e r e ; that
he was a m erchant and tradesm an, and hid his quality from n o o n e
and, finally, “ that though bigger than him self, there w as n oth ing he
w ould like better than that I should com e out on the green and
stand to him like a m an.”
THREE EN GLISH TOURISTS.
loi
T h is invitation, although repeated several times, I refused w ith as
m uch d ig n ity as I co u ld a s s u m e ; partly because I was sober and
cool, w h ile the other was furious and d ru n k ; also because I felt a
strong suspicion that in about ten m inutes the man w ould m anage to
giv e m e a trem endous beating, w hich I did not m erit in the le a s t ;
thirdly, becau se a victo ry over him w ould not have been productive
o f th e lea st pleasure to me ; and lastly, because there was som ething
re a lly hon est and gallan t in the fellow com ing out to defend his old
relative. B o th o f the younger m en w ould have fought like tigers for
this disreputable old gentlem an, and desired no better sp o rt T h e
last I heard o f the three w as that they and the driver m ade their
ap p earan ce before a m agistrate in B a n tr y ; and a pretty story w ill the
old m an h ave to tell to his club at the “ H o o p ,” or the “ R e d L io n ,”
o f those sw indling Irish, and the ill-treatm enf he m et with in their
country.
A s for the landlord, the incident w ill be a blessed them e o f co n
versation to him for a lon g tim e to com e. I heard him discoursing
o f it in the passage during the rest o f the d a y ; and n ext m orning
when I op en ed m y w indow and saw with m uch delight the b a y clear
and b rig h t as silver— excep t where the green hills were reflected in it,
the b lu e sky ab ove, and the purple m ountains round about with o n ly
a few clo u d s veilin g their peaks— the first thing I heard was the
voice o f M r. E ccle s repeating the story to a new^ customer.
“ I thought thim couldn ’t b e gin tlem in ,” was the appropriate
remark o f M r. T o m the w aiter, “ from the w ay in w hich they took
their w hishky— raw with co ld wather, w idout mixing or inyihing.''
Could a n Irish w aiter give a m ore excellen t definition o f the ungenteel ?
A t n in e o’clo ck in the m orning o f the next day, the un lucky
car w h ich h ad carried the Englishm en to Bantry cam e b a ck to
Glengariff, and as the m orning was very fine, I was glad to take
advantage o f it, and travel some five-and-thirty English m iles to
K illam ey.
102
C H A P T E R X.
FROM GLENGARIFF TO KILLARNEY.
T he Irish car seem s accom m odated for any num ber o f p e r so n s : it
appeared to be full when we left G lengariff, for a traveller from Bearhaven, and the five gen tlem en from the yacht, to o k seats up on it
with m yself, and we fancied it was im possible m ore than seven should
travel b y such a c o n v e y a n c e ; b u t the driver show ed the capabilities
o f his veh icle presently. T h e jo u rn ey from G len gariff to K e n m a re is
one o f astonishing b e a u ty ; and I h ave seen K illa m e y since, an d am
sure that G len gariff loses nothing b y com parison w ith this m ost
fam ous o f lakes.
R o c k , w ood, and sea stretch around the traveller
— a thousand delightful p ic tu re s : the landscape is at first w ild w ith
out bein g fierce, im mense w oods and plantations enriching the valleys
— beautiful streams to be seen everywhere.
H e re again I was surprised at the great population a lo n g the
r o a d ; for one saw but few cabins, and there is no villa ge b e tw ee n
G len gariff and K enm are. B u t m en and w om en w ere on b a n k s an d
in fie ld s ; children, as usual, cam e trooping up to the c a r ; a n d the
jo v ia l m en o f the yacht had great conversations w ith m ost o f the
persons w hom >ve m et on the road. A m errier set o f fellow s it w ere
hard to m e e t
“ Should you like anything to drink, s i r ? ” says one,
com m encin g the acquaintance. “ W e h ave the best w h isky in the
world, and plenty o f porter in the b a s k e t ” T h erew ith the jo lly sea
m en produced a long b o ttle o f grog, w hich w as passed round from
on e to a n o th e r; and then began singing, shouting, laughing, roaring
for the w hole journey. “ British sailors h ave a kn a ck, pull aw ay— ^ho,
b o y s ! ” “ H urroo, m y fine fe llo w ! does yo u r m other kn ow yo u ’re out ?”
“ H u rroo, T im H e r lih y ! yo u ’re a fluke, T im H e rlih y .” O n e m an sang
on the roof, one hurrodd to the echo, another apostrop hized the
aforesaid H erlih y as he passed grinning on a c a r ; a third had a
p ocket-h an dkerch ief flaunting from a pole, w ith w hich he perform ed
exercises in the face o f any horsem an w hom w e m e t ; and great w ere
their yells as the ponies shied o ff at the salutation and the riders
sw erved in their saddles. In the m idst o f this rattlin g chorus w e
CAR TRA VELLING.
103
went a l o n g : grad u ally the coun try grew w ild er and m ore desolate,
and w e p assed through a grim m ountain region, b lea k and bare, the
road w in d in g round som e o f the innum erable hills, and once or tw ice
by m ean s o f a tunnel rushing b o ld ly through them . O n e o f these
tunnels, th e y say, is a coup le o f hundred yards l o n g ; and a p retty
howling, I n eed n ot say, w as m ade through that p ipe o f ro ck b y the
jolly y a c h t’s crew. “ W e saw you sketching in the blacksm ith’s shed
at G len gariff,” says one, “ and we w ished w e had yo u on board.
Such a jo lly life w e led o f i t ! ”— T h e y ro ved about the coast, th ey
said, in their v e s s e l; they feasted o ff the best o f fish, m utton, and
w h isky; th e y h ad G am b le’s turtle-soup on board, and fun from m orn
ing till n igh t, and vice versA. G rad u ally it cam e out that there was
not, o w in g to the trem endous rains, a d ry co m e r in their ship : that
they slun g tw o in a huge ham m ock in the cabin, and that one o f
their crew had been ill, and shirked off. W hat a w onderful thing
pleasure i s ! T o b e w et all d ay and n igh t; to be scorched and blistered
by the sun and r a in ; to b eat in and out o f little harbours, and to
exceed d iu m a lly upon w hisky-punch— ’faith, L on d o n , and an arm
chair a t th e club, are more to the tastes o f som e men.
A fte r m uch m ountain-w ork o f ascen ding and descending, (in w hich
latter operation, an d b y the side o f p recipices that m ake passing
cockneys rather squeam ish, the carm an drove like m ad to the w hoop
ing and screechin g o f the red-rovers,) w e at len gth cam e to K en m are,
of w hich a ll that I kn ow is that it lies p rettily in a b a y or arm o f the
sea ; th at it is approached b y a little hanging-bridge, w hich seem s to
be a w on d er in these p arts; that it is a m iserable little p lace w hen yo u
enter i t ; an d that, finally, a splendid luncheon o f all sorts o f m eat
and exce llen t co ld salm on m ay som etim es be had for a shilling at the
hotel o f the place. I t is a great vacant house, like the rest o f them,
and w ou ld frighten p eop le in E n glan d ; b ut after a few days one
grow s used to the C astle R a ck ren t style. I am n ot sure that there is
not a certain sort o f com fort to b e had in these ram bling room s,
a n d am o n g these bustling, blundering waiters, w hich one does n ot
alw'ays m eet w ith in an orderly E n glish house o f entertainm ent.
A fte r discussing the luncheon, w e found the car with fresh horses,
beggars, idlers, policem en, & c ., standing round o f c o u r s e ; and n ow
the m iraculous vehicle, w hich had held hitherto seven w ith som e
d ifficulty, w as called upon to accom m odate thirteen.
A p re tty n oise w ould our three Englishm en o f yesterday— nay, an y
104
th e
IRISH SK E TCH BO O K
other Englishm en for the m atter o f that— ^have m ade, i f co o lly ca lle d
upon to adm it an extra p arty o f four into a m ail-coach ! T h e y a ch t’s
crew did not m ake a single o b je c tio n ; a coup le clam bered up on th e
roof, where they m anaged to lo cate them selves w ith w onderful in ge
nuity, perched upon hard w ooden chests, or agreeably rep o sin g
upon the kn otted ropes w hich h eld them to g e th e r: o n e o f th e n ew
passengers scram bled betw een the driver’s legs, w here he held on som e
how, and the rest were pushed and squeezed atonishingly in the car.
N o w the fact must be told, that five o f the n ew passengers (I
do n ’t count a little b o y besides) were w om en, and v e ry pretty, gay,
frolicksom e, lively, kind-hearted, innocent w om en t o o ; and for the
rest o f the journ ey there was no end o f laughing and shouting, and
singing, and hugging, so that the caravan presented the app earan ce
w hich is depicted in the frontispiece o f tliis w ork.
N o w it m ay b e a w onder to som e persons, that with such a cargo
the carriage did not upset, or som e o f us did n ot fall o f f ; to w hich the
answ er is that w*e did fall off. A very p retty w om an fell off, and
show ed a pair o f never-m ind-what-coloured garters, and an interesting
E n glish traveller fell o ff t o o : but heaven bless y o u ! these cars are
m ade to fall o ff from ; and con siderin g the circum stances o f th e case,
an d in the sam e com pany, I w ould rather fall o ff than not. A g re a t
num ber o f polite allusions and gen teel inquiries w ere, as m a y b e
im agined, m ade b y the jo lly bo at’s crew.
B ut though the lady-
affected to b e a little angry at first, she was far too good-natured to
b e angry long, and at last fairly burst out laughing w ith th e pas
sengers. W e did not fall o ff again, but held on very tight, and ju s t a s
w e were reaching K illa m e y , saw som ebody else fall o ff from an o th er
car. But in this instance the gentlem an had no lad y to tum ble w ith.
F o r alm ost h a lf the w ay from K en m are, this wild, beautiful road
com m ands view s o f the famous lake and vast blue m ountains ab ou t
K illa m e y .
T u rk , T o m ies, and M angerton w ere clo th ed in purple
like kin gs in m o u rn in g; great h eavy clouds w ere gathered round th eir
heads, parting aw ay every now and then, and leavin g th eir n o b le
features bare.
T h e lake la y for som e tim e underneath us, d a rk and
blue, w ith dark m isty islands in the m id st O n the right-hand side o f
the road w ould be a precipice covered with a thousand trees, o r a
green ro ck y flat, with a reed y m ere in the m idst, and other m ountains
rising as far as w e could see. I thin k o f that diabolical tun e in “ D e r
F reischutz ” w hile passing through this sort o f co un tiy.
E v e ry n ow
K ILLARN EY.
105
and .then, in the m idst o f som e fresh coun try or in closed trees, or at
a turn o f the road, you lose the sight o f the great b ig awful m oun
tain : b u t, lik e the aforesaid tune in “ D e r F reisch utz,” it is alw ays there
d o se a t hand. Y o u feel that it keeps you com pany. A n d so it was
that w e ro d e b y dark old M angerton, then presently past M uckross,
and then through tw o m iles o f avenues o f lim e-trees, b y num erous
lodges an d gen tlem en ’s seats, across an old bridge, w here you see the
mountains again and the lake, until, b y L o rd K en m are’s house, a
hideous row o f houses inform ed us that w e were at K illa m ey .
H e re m y com panion suddenly let go m y hand, and b y a certain
uneasy m otion o f the waist, ga ve m e n otice to w ithdraw the other
to o ; and so w e rattled up to the “ K en m a re A rm s : ” and so ended,
not w ithout a sigh on m y part, one o f the m erriest six-hour rides that
five yachtm en, one co ckn ey, five w om en and a child, the carm an, and
a countrym an w ith an alpeen, ever to o k in their lives.
A s for m y fellow -com panion, she w ould hardly speak the next d a y ;
but all the five m aritim e m en m ade m e vo w and prom ise that I w ould
go and see them at C o rk , w here I should have horses to ride, the
fastest yach t out o f the harbour to sail in, and the best o f w hisky,
claret, and w elcom e.
A m en , and m ay every single person w ho buys
a copy o f this bo o k m eet with the sam e deserved fate.
T h e tow n o f K illa m e y was in a violent state o f excitem en t w ith a
series o f horse-races, hurdle-races, boat-races, and stag-hunts b y land
and w ater, w hich w ere taking p lace, and attracted a vast crow d from
all parts o f the kingdom . A ll the inns were full, and lodgin gs cost
five shillings a day— nay, m ore in som e places ; for though m y land
lady, M rs. M a cgillicu d d y,'ch arges but that sum, a leisurely old gen tle
man w hom I n ever saw in m y life before m ade m y acquain tan ce b y
stopping m e in the street yesterday, and said he paid a pound a d ay
for his tw o bed-rooms. T h e o ld gentlem an is eager for co m p a n y ; and
indeed, w hen a m an travels alone, it is w onderful how little he cares to
select his so ciety ; how indifferent com pan y pleases him ; how a go o d
fellow delights h im : how sorry he is w hen the tim e for parting com es,
and h e has to w alk o ff alone, and begin the friendship-hunt over again.
T h e first sight I w itnessed at K illa m e y was a race-ordinary, w here,
for a sum o f tw elve shillings, any man could take his share o f turbot,
salm on, venison, and beef, w ith port, and sherry, and w hisky-punch
at discretion. H e re were the squires o f C o rk and K e rry, one or two
En glishm en, w hose vo ices am idst the rich hum m ing brogue round
io6
about sounded quite affected (not that tliey w ere so, b u t there seem s
a sort o f im pertinence in the shrill, high-pitched ton e o f the E n g lish
v o ice here). A t the head o f the table, near the chairm an, sat so m e
brilliant youn g dragoons, neat, solem n, dull, w ith hu ge m oustaches,
and boots p olish ed to a nicety.
A n d here o f course the conversation w as o f the horse, h o r s e y :
how M r. T h is had refused fifteen hundred guineas for a h orse w h ich
h e bought for a h u n d re d ; how B acchus was the b est horse in Ire la n d ;
w hich horses w ere to run at Som ething races ; and how the M arqu is
o f W aterford gave a plate or a purse. W e drank “ the Q u e « i,” w ith
hip ! hip ! hurrah ! the “ w inner o f the K en m a re stakes ”— ^hurrah!
P resen tly the gen tlem an n ext me rose and m ade a s p e e c h : h e had
b rought a m are dow n and w on the stakes— a hundred and sev en ty
gu in eas— and I lo o k ed at him w ith a great deal o f re s p e c t
O th er
toasts ensued, and m ore talk about horses. N o r am I in th e least
disposed to sneer at gentlem en who like sporting and ta lk ab ou t i t :
for I d o believe that the conversation o f a do zen fox-hunters is ju s t
as cle ve r as that o f a sim ilar num ber o f m erchants, barristers, o r
literary men. But to this trade, as to all others, a man m ust b e b r e d ;
if he has n ot learnt it thoroughly or in early life, he w ill n o t re a d ily
b ecom e a proficient afterwards, and w hen therefore tlie su b ject is
broached, had best m aintain a profound silence.
A youn g E din burgh co ckn ey, w ith an easy self-confidence that
the reader m ay h ave perhaps rem arked in others o f his ca llin g a n d
nation, and w ho evid en tly kn ew as m uch o f sporting m atters as th e
individual w ho wTites this, iiroceeded n evertheless to g iv e th e co m
p an y his opinions, and greatly astonished tliem a l l ; for these sim p le
p eo p le are at first w illin g to believe that a stranger is sure to b e a
kn ow in g fellow , and did not seem in clined to b e u n d eceived e v e n by
this little pert, grinning- Scotchm an. I t w as go o d to hear him ta lk o f
H ad d in gto n , M usselburgh— and heaven know s w hat strange o u t
landish places, as if they w ere kn o w n to all the w orld.
A n d h ere
w ould b e a go o d opportunity to enter into a dissertation u p on
natural ch a ra cteristics: to show that the bold, sw aggering Irish m a n is
really a m odest fellow , w hile the cann y S co t is a m ost brazen o n e ; to
w onder w h y the inhabitant o f one coun try is asham ed o f it— w h id i is
in itself so fertile and beautiful, an d has p ro d u ced m ore th an its fiur
p ro p o rtio n o f m en o f gen iu s, valour, and w i t ; w hereas it n ev er e n t m
in to the head o f a Scotchm an to question his own.fequaU ty (an d
A N EDINBURGH COCKNEY.
107
som ething m ore) a t a l l : b u t that such discussions are quite unpro
fitable ; n ay, that e xa ctly the con trary propositions m ay b e argued to
just a s m u ch length.
H a s the reader ever tried w ith a dozen o f
Mr. T o c q u e v ille ’s short crisp p hilosophic apophthegm s and taken the
converse o f them ?
T h e one or other set o f propositions will answ’er
equally w e l l ; and it is the best w ay to a vo id all such.
L e t the above
passage, then, sim ply b e understood to say, that on a certain day the
writer m et a vu lgar little Scotchm an— not that all Scotchm en are
vu lga r;— th at this little pert creature p rattled abou t his country as if
he a n d it w ere ornam ents to the w orld— w hich the latter is, no d o u b t ;
and th a t o n e co u ld n ot b ut contrast his behaviour w ith that o f great
big stalw art sim ple Irishm en, w ho ask ed your opinion o f their coun try
with a s m u ch m o desty as if yo u — because an E nglishm an— m ust b e
so m ebo d y, an d they the dust o f the earth.
In d e e d , this w ant o f self-confidence at tim es becom es quite painful
to th e stranger. I f in reply to their queries, you say you like the
coun try, p eo p le seem really quite delighted. Why should they ? W h y
sh o u ld a stranger’s opinion w ho doesn ’t kn o w the country b e m ore
va lu ed than a n ative’s w ho does ?— Suppose an Irishm an in E n glan d
w ere to sp eak in praise or abuse o f the country, w ould one b e particu
la rly p lea sed or ann oyed ? O n e w ould b e glad that the m an liked his
t r i p ; b u t as for his g o o d or bad opinion o f the country, the coun try
stan ds o n its ow n bottom , superior to any opinion o f any m an or men.
I m ust b e g pardbn o f the little Scotchm an for revertin g to him
(le t it b e rem em bered that there w ere
tufo Scotchm en at K illa rn ey ,
a n d th at I sp eak o f the oth er o n e ) ; but I h ave seen no specim en o f
th at so rt o f m anners in any Irishm an since I have been in the
country. I h ave m et m ore gen tlem en here than in an y p lace I ever
s a w : gen tlem en o f high and low ranks, that is to s a y : m en shrewd an d
d d k a t e o f p ercep tion, observant o f society, entering into the feelings
o f others, and anxious to set them at ease or to gratify th e m ; o f
course exaggeratin g their professions o f kindness, and in so far
in siiic e re ; b ut the ve ry exaggeration seem s to b e a p ro o f o f a k in d ly
nature, a n d I w ish in E n glan d w e w ere a little m ore com plim entary.
In D u b lin , a law yer left his cham bers, and a literary m an his b o o k s,
to w a lk th e tow n w ith m e— the town, w hich they m ust kn o w a great
deal to o w e l l : for, p retty as it is, it is but a sm all p lace after all, n ot
like th a t great bustling, chan gin g, struggling w orld, the E n glishm an ’s
c a p ita l
W ould a L o n d o n m an lea ve his business to tru d ge to the
io8
'lo w e r or the P ark w ith a stranger ? W e w ou ld ask him to din e a t
the club, or to eat w hitebait at L o v eg ro v e ’s, and thin k our d u ty d o n e,
neither caring for him, nor professing to care for h im ; an d w e p ride our
selves on our honesty accordingly. N e ve r w as h o n esty m ore selfish.
A n d so a vu lgar m an in E n gland disdains to flatter his equals, and
chiefly displays his character o f snob b y assum ing as m uch as h e can
for him self, sw aggering and show ing o ff in his coarse, dull, stupid w ay.
“ I am a gentlem an, and p ay m y w ay ,” a^ the old fellow said at
G lengariff. I have n ot heard a sentence near so vu lgar from an y
m an in Ireland. Y e s , b y the w ay, there was another E n glishm an at
C o rk : a man in a m iddling, n ot to say hum ble, situation o f life.
W h en introduced to an Irish gentlem an, his form ula seem ed to be,
“ I think, sir, I have m et you som ew here before.”
“ I am sure, sir,
I have m et you before,” he said, for the second tim e in m y hearing, to
a gentlem an o f great note in Ireland. “ Y e s , I have m et you a t L o rd
X
’s.” “ I don’t kn ow m y L o rd X
replied the Irishm an.
“ Sir,” says the other,
shall have great pleasure in introducingyou
to himi"
W ell, the good-natured sim ple Irishm an thought this
gentlem an a very fine fellow . T h e re was o n ly one, o f som e do zen
w ho spoke about him, that found out Snob. I suppose the Spaniards
lorded it over the M exican s in this w a y : their drum m ers p a c in g for
generals am ong the sim ple red m en, their glass beads for jew els, and
their insolent bearing for heroic superiority.
L eavin g, then, the race-ordinary (that little Scotchm an with his airs
has carried us the deuce know s how far out o f the w ay), I cam e h o m e
ju st as the gentlem en o f the race were beginning to “ m ix,” th at is, to
forsake the w ine for the punch. A t the lodgin gs I found m y five
com panions o f the m orning with a bo ttle o f that w onderful w hisky
o f w hich they sp ok e; and w hich they had agreed to exch an ge against
a bundle o f L iverp oo l c ig a r s ; so w e discussed them , the w hisky,
and other topics in com m on.
N o w there is no need to vio la te the
sanctity o f private life, and report the conversation w hich to o k place,
the songs w hich w ere sung, the speeches w hich were m ade, an d the
other rem arkable events o f the evening.
Suffice it to say, th at the
E n glish traveller grad ually becom es accustom ed to w hisky-punch (in
m oderation o f course), and finds the beverage very agreeab le a t
K illa m e y ; against w hich I reco llect a protest w as entered a t D ublin.
But after w e had talk ed o f huntin g, racing, regatting, and a ll
other sports, I cam e to a d isco very w hich astonished m e, an d for
IRISH AN D EN G LISH
109
which th ese honest, kin d fellow s are m entioned p u blicly here. T h e
portraits, o r a sort o f resem blance o f four o f them, m ay b e seen in
the fo re g o in g draw ing o f the car. T h e m an with the straw-hat and
han dkerchief l i ^ over it is the captain o f an In d ia m a n ; three others,
Rith e a ch a pair o f m oustaches, sported yacht-costunies, jackets,
dub anchor-buttons, and so forth ; and, finally, one on the other side
of the ca r (w ho cann ot b e seen on accoun t o f the portm anteaus,
otherwise the likeness w ould be perfect,) was dressed with a coat and
a hat in the ordinary way.
O n e w ith the g o ld band and m oustaches
is a gentlem an o f property ; the other three are attorneys every man
of th e m : tw o in large practice in C o rk and D u blin , the other, and
owner o f the yacht, under articles to the attorn ey o f C ork. N o w did
any E nglishm an ever live w ith three attorneys for a w hole day
without hearing a single syllab le o f law spoken ? D id w e ever see in
our country attorneys with m o u stach es; or, ab ove all, an attorn ey’s
derk the ow ner o f a yach t o f thirty tons ?
H e is a gentlem an o f
property too— the heir, that is, to a go o d estate ; and has had a yach t
of his ow n, he says, ever since he wâs fourteen years old. Is there
any English b o y o f fourteen w ho com m ands a ship with a crew o f
five men un der him ? W e all agreed to h ave a bo at for the staghunt on the la k e n ext d a y ; and I w'ent to b ed w ondering at this
strange coun try m ore than ever.
A n attorn ey with m o u sta c h es!
What w ould they say o f him in C h an cery L an e ?
no
CH APTER XL
KILLARNEY— STAG-HUNTING ON THE LAKE.
M r s . M a c g i l l i c u d d y ’s
house is at the co m e r o f the tw o principal
streets o f K illa m e y town, and the drawing-room w indow s com m and
each a street. B efore one w indow is a dism al, rickety buildin g, with
a slated face, that looks like an ex-town-hall.
T h e re is a row o f
arches to the ground floor, the angles at the base o f w hich seem to
have m ouldered or to have been k ick e d away. O ve r the centre arch
is a p icture w ith a flourishing yello w inscription above, im porting
that it is the m eeting-place o f the T o ta l A b stin en ce Society.
T o ta l
abstinence is represented by the figures o f a gen tlem an in a b lu e coat
and drab tights, w ith gilt garters, w ho is givin g his hand to a la d y ;
betw een them is an escutcheon surm ounted with a cross a n d charged
w ith religious em blem s. C u p id s float above the heads and b etw een
the legs o f this hap p y pair, w hile an exceed in gly sm all tea-table with
the requisite crockery reposes against the la d y ’s k n e e ; a still, with
d eath ’s-head and bloody-bones, filling up the n aked co m e r n ear the
gentlem an.
A sort o f m arket is held here, and the p lace is sw arm ing
w ith blue cloaks and groups o f m en ta lk in g ; here and there is a
stall with coarse linens, crockery, a c h e e s e ; and crow ds o f egg- and
m ilk-wom en are squatted on the pavem ent, w ith their r a ^ e d cus
tom ers or g o s s ip s ; and the yellow -haired girl, on the n ext p age, with
a barrel con taining n othing at all, has been sitting, as i f fo r her
portrait, this hour past.
Carts, cars, jingles, barouches, horses and veh icles o f all descrip
tions rattle presently through the s tr e e ts : for the tow n is crow ded
w ith com p an y for the races and other sports, and all the w orld is
b en t to see the stag-hunt on the lake. . Ji^êre the ladies o f the M acg illicu d d y fam ily h ave slept, h eaven kn ow s, fo r their house is full o f
lodgers.
W h at vo ices yo u h e a r !
“ B r iM m e som e hot
wsJahf says
a gen teel, high-piped E n glish vo ice. “ H w h ere’s m e h o t w a th e r ? ”
roars a deep-toned H ibernian. See, o ver the w ay, three ladies in
ringlets an d green tabinet tak in g their “ ta y ” p reparatory to setting
THE IN N B Y THE LAK E.
out
Ill
I w on d er w hether they heard the sentim ental songsôf the law-
marines la st night ?
T h e y must h ave been edified if they did.
M y com panions cam e, true to their appointm ent, and w e w alked
down to the boats, lyin g at a coup le o f m iles from the town, near the
“ V icto ria In n ,” a handsom e m ansion, in pretty grounds, close to the
lake, a n d ow ned b y the patriotic M r. Finn. A noblem an offered
K n n eig h t hundred pounds for the use o f his house during the races,
and, to F in n ’s eternal honour b e it said, h e refused the m oney, and
said h e w ou ld k e ep his house for his friends and patrons, the p u b lic
L e t th e C o rk S team -P acket C o m p a n y thin k o f this gen erosity on the
112
part o f Mr! Finn, and blusli for s h a m e : at the C o rk A gricultural Show
they raised their fares, and w ere disappointed in their speculation, as
they deserved to be, b y indignant E n glishm en refusing to g o at all.
T h e m orning had been bright e n o u g h ; but for fear o f accidents
we to o k our mac kintoshes, and at about a m ile from the tow n found
it necessary to assum e those garm ents and w ear them for the greater
part o f the day.
Passing b y the “ V icto ria ,” with its beautiful walks,
park, and lodge, w e cam e to a little creek w here the b o ats were
m oored ; and there was the w onderful lake before us, w ith its moun
tains, and islands, and trees. U n lu ck ily, how ever, the m ountains
happened to be in v is ib le ; the islands lo o ked lik e g ray masses
in the fog, and all that w e co u ld see for som e tim e w as th e gray
silhouette o f the b o at ahead o f us, in w hich a passenger w as engaged
in a w itty conversation with som e bo at still further in the mist.
D rum m ing and trum peting was heard at a little distance, and
p resen tly w-e found ourselves in the m idst o f a fleet o f b oats upon
the ro ck y shores o f the beautiful little Innisfallen.
H e re we landed for a w hile, and the w eather clearing up allo w ed
us to see this chan nin g s p o t : rocks, shrubs, and little abrupt rises
an d falls o f ground, covered w ith the brightest em erald g r a s s ; a
b eautiful little ruin o f a Saxon chapel, lyin g gentle, delicate, and
p lain tive on the shore ; som e n oble trees round about it, and b eyo n d ,
p resen tly, the tow er o f R o ss C a s t le : islan d after island app earin g in
the clearing sunshine, and the huge hills throw ing their m isty v e ils
off, and w earing their n oble robes o f purple.
T h e boats* crew s w ere
grouped about the p lace, and one large barge esp ecially h ad lan d ed
som e sixty people, b ein g the T em p era n ce band, w ith its drum s,
trum pets, and \vives. T h e y w ere m arshalled b y a grave old g e n tle
m an w ith a w hite w aistcoat an d queue, a silver m edal d e co ra tin g
THE S T A CHI UN T.
one sid e o f
113
his co a t, and a brass heart reposing on the other
flap.
The h o rn s perform ed som e Irish airs p rettily ; and at length, at the
instigation o f a fellow w ho w ent sw aggering about with a pair o f
whirling drum sticks, all form ed togeth er an d p layed G arryow en— the
active d ru m o f course m ost dreadfully out o f time.
H a v in g strolled about the island for a quarter o f an hour, it
becam e tim e to take to the boats again, and we w ere row ed over to
the w o o d opposite Sullivan’s cascade, w here the hounds had been
laid in in th e m orning, and the stag was exp ected to take water.
F ifty o r sixty m en are em ployed on the m ountain to drive the stag
lakew 'ards, should he be in clined to break aw ay : and the sport •
g e n e ra lly ends b y the stag— a w ild o n e— m aking for the w ater with
th e p a ck swim m ing afterwards ; and here he is taken and disposed o f :
h o w I kn ow not. I t is rather a parade than a sta^-hunt; but, with all
th e b oats around and the n oble view , must be a fine thing to see.
P resently, steering his barge, the “ E rin ,” with tw elve oars and a
g re e n flag sw eep in g the water, cam e b y the president o f the sports,
M r. Joh n O ’C o n n ell, a gentlem an w ho appears to be liked b y rich
a n d p o o r here, and b y the latter especially is adored. “ Sure w e’d
d h ro w n ourselves for him ,” one man told me ; and p roceeded to speak
e a g e rly in his praise, and to tell num berless acts o f his generosity
a n d justice. T h e ju stice is rather rude in this w ild country som e
tim es, and occasio n ally the ju d g es n ot only deliver the sentence
b u t execute i t ; nor does any one think o f appealin g to any m ore
regu lar jurisdiction . T h e likeness o f M r. O ’C o n n ell to his brother is
very- s tr ik in g : one m ight have declared it was the L iberator sitting at
the stem o f the boat.
Som e scores m ore boats were there, darting up and dow n in the
pretty, busy waters. H e re cam e a C am bridge b o a t ; and where,
i n d e ^ , will not the gentlem en o f that renow ned university b e found ?
Y o n d e r w ere the dan d y dragoons, stiff, silent, slim, faultlessly
appointed, solem nly puffing cigars. E very now and then a hound
w ould b e heard in the w ood, w hereon num bers o f voices, right and
left, w o u ld begin to yell in chorus— “ H u rroo ! H o o p ! Y o w — yow —
yow ! ” in accen ts the m ost shrill or the m ost m elancholious.
M ean
while th e sun had had enough o f the sport, the m ountains put on
their v e ils again, the islands retreated into the mist, the w ord w ent
through th e fleet to spread all um brellas, and ladies to o k shares o f
m ackin toshes and disappeared under the flaps o f silk cloaks.
8
114
THE IRISH SK E TC H BOO K
T lie w ood com es clown to the very edge o f the w ater, and m an y
o f the crew s thought fit to land and seek this green shelter. T h e re
you m ight see how the dandium sutnma genus hasit ulmoy clam berin g
up thither to hide from the rain, and m any “ m em bra ” in d a b b led
russia-ducks cow ering viridi sub arbuto ad aqua lene caput.
To
b ehold these m oist dandies the natives o f the coun try cam e eagerly.
Strange, savage faces m ight b e seen peering from out o f the t r e e s :
long-haired, barelegged girls cam e dow n the hill, som e w ith green
apples and very sickly-lookin g plum s ; som e w ith w h isky an d g o a t’sm i l k ; a ragged b o y had a p air o f stag’s horns to s e l l : th e p lace
swarm ed with people. W e w ent up the hill to see the n o b le ca scad e,
and when you say that it com es rushing dow n o ver ro ck and through
tangled w oods, alas ! one has said all the diction ary can h elp y o u to,
and not enough to distinguish this particular cataract from a n y other.
T h is seen and adm ired, w e cam e b a ck to the harbour w here th e b o ats
lay, and from’ w hich spot the reader m ight h ave seen th e foregoing
view o f the lake— that is, you umdd see the lake, i f the m ist w ould
o n ly clear away.
But this for hours it did not seem inclined to do. W e ro w e d up
and ^dowTi industriously for a period o f tim e w h ich seem ed to m e
atrociously long. T h e bugles o f the “ E rin ” had lo n g since soun ded
“ H om e, sweet hom e ! ” and the greater part o f the fleet h ad dispersed.
A s for the stag-hunt, all I saw o f it w as four d ogs that ap p ea red o n
the shore at different intervals, and a huntsm an in a scarlet coat,
who sim ilarly cam e and w e n t : o n ce or tw ice w e w ere gratified b y
TH E L A K E S OF KILLARN EY.
115
hearing th e h o u n d s ; but at last it w as agreed that there was n o chan ce
for th e d a y, and w e row ed o ff to K en m a re C o ttag e — ^where, on the
lovely law n , or in a cottage adjoining, the gen try picnic, and w here,
with a han dkerchiefful o f potatoes, we m ade as pleasant a m eal as
ever I r e c o lle c t
H e re a go o d num ber o f the boats w ere a ss e m b le d ;
here y o u m ight see cloths spread and dinner goin g o n ; here w ere
those w on derful officers, lo o kin g as i f they had ju st stepped from
bandboxes, w ith— ^by heavens !— n ot a shirt-collar disarranged nor a
boot dim m ed b y the wet. A n old piper w as m aking a very feeble
music, w ith a han dkerchief spread over his f a c e ; and, farther on, a
little sm iling G erm an b o y w as p layin g an accordion and singing a
ballad o f H a u ff’s. I had a silver m edal in m y p o cket, w ith V icto ria
on o n e sid e and Britannia on the other, and gave it him , for the
sake o f o ld tim es and his round friendly face. O h , little G erm an
boy, m a n y a night as you trudge lo n ely through this w ild land,
must yo u yearn after Brudcrlein an d Schwesierlein at hom e— ^yonder
in stately F ran kfu rt city that lies b y silver M ayn. I thought o f
vin eyard s and sunshine, and the greasy clo ck in the theatre, and the
raibroad a ll the w ay to W iesbaden, and the handsom e Jew countryhouses
by
the
B ockenheim er-T hor
.
.
.
.
“ Com e
alon g,”
says the boatm an. “ A ll the gintlem in are w aiting for your honour.”
A n d I fo un d them finishing the potatoes, and w e all had a draught
o f w ater firom the lake, and so p ulled to the M id d le or T u r k L a k e
th rou gh th e picturesque green rapid that floats under B rickeen
& id g e .
W h a t is to b e said about T u rk L a k e ? W hen there, w e agreed
th at it w as m ore beautiful than the large lake, o f w hich it is n o t onefourth th e s iz e ; then, w hen w e cam e back, w e said, “ N o , the large
la k e is th e m ost beautiful.” A n d so, at every p oint w e stopped at, w e
d eterm in ed that that particular spot was the prettiest in the w hole
la k e. T h e fact is— and I d o n ’t care to own it— th ey are too hand
som e. A s for a m an com ing from his desk in L o n d o n o r D u b lin
a n d seein g “ the w hole lakes in a d ay,” he is an ass for his p a in s ; a
ch ild d o in g sums in addition m ight as w ell read the w hole m ultiplicatioH 'table, and fan cy h e had it b y h e a r t W e should lo o k at these
w on d eifiil things leisurely and thoughtfully ; and even then, blessed
is b e w h o understands them. I w onder w hat im pression the sight
m ade u p o n the three tipsy E n glishm en at G len gariff? W h at idea o f
natural b e au ty belo n gs to an o ld fellow w hoisays he is
a gentlem an.
Ii6
and pays his w ay ? ”
W hat to a jo lly fox-hunter, w ho h ad rather see
a g o o d “ screeching ” run w ith the hounds than the best landscape
ever painted ? A n d yet they all com e hither, and g o through the
business regularly, and w ould not miss seeing every one o f the lakes
and goin g up every one o f the hills. B y w hich circum locution the
writer wishes ingenuously to announce that he w ill n ot see a n y m ore
lakes, ascen d any m ountains or towers, visit an y ga p s o f D u n lo e, or
an y prospects w hatever, excep t such as nature shall fling in his w ay
in the course o f a quiet reasonable w alk.
In the M id d le L a k e w e were carried to an island w here a cere
m ony o f goat’s-milk and w h isky is perform ed b y som e travellers,
and where you are carefully con ducted to a spot that “ Sir W a lter
Scott adm ired m ore than a l l ”
AVhether he did o r not, w e can o n ly
say on the authority o f the b o a tm a n ; but the p lace itse lf w as a q u iet
n ook, where three waters m eet, and indeed o f no great picturesqueness
w hen com pared with the beauties around. B ut it is o f a gen tle,
hom ely beauty— n ot like the lake, w hich is as a princess dressed o u t
in diam onds and velvet for a drawing-room, and kn ow in g h erself to
b e faultless too.
A s for Innisfallen, it w as just as if she ga ve one
sm iling peep into the nursery before she w ent aw ay, so quiet,
innocent, and tender is that lo ve ly s p o t ; but, depend on it, i f there
is a lake fairy or princess, as Crofton C ro k er and other historians
assert, she is o f her nature a vain creature, proud o f her person, and
fond o f the finest dresses to adorn i t
M a y I confess that I w ou ld
rather, for a continuance, have a house facing a p add ock, w ith a co w
in it, than b e always lo o kin g at this im m ense, overpow ering splendour.
Y o u w ould not, m y dear brother co ck n e y from T o o le y S tre et? N o ,
those brilliant eyes o f thine were n ever m eant to ga ze a t a n y th in g
less bright than the sun.
Y o u r m ighty spirit finds nothing too v a st
for its com prehension, spurns w hat is hum ble as unworthy, and o n ly,
lik e F o o te ’s bear, dances to “ the gen teelest o f tunes.”
T h e lo n g and short o f the m atter is, that on gettin g o ff the la k e ,
after seven hours’ rowing, I felt as m uch relieved as i f I h ad b e en
dining for the sam e length o f tim e with her M ajesty the Q ueen , an d
w ent jun ipin g hom e as ga ily as p o s s ib le ; but those m arine law yers
insisted so piteously upon seeing R o ss C astle, close to w hich w e w ere
a t length landed, that I was o bliged (in spite o f repeated oaths to th e
contrary) to ascend that tower, and tak e a b ird ’s-eye view o f th e
scene.
T h a n k heaven, I have n either tail n or w ings, and h a ve n o t
THE L A K E S OF K ILLA R SE Y.
117
tlie sligiitc.st wish to b e a bird : tliat ronliiai. il iininen>ity o f pro^pe* t
w hich stretch es beneath those little wings o f theirs must deaden their
in tellects, depend on it.
T o m kin s and I are not m ade for the
im m ense : w e can enjoy a little at a time, and en jo y that little very
m u c h ; o r if like birds, we are like the ostrich— n ot that we have
fine feathers to our backs, b ut because we cann ot fly. Press us too
m uch, an d w e becom e flurried, and run o ff and bury our heads in the
q u iet b o so m o f dear m other earth, and so get rid o f the din, and the
d azzle, an d the shouting.
B ecau se w e dined upon potatoes, that was no reason w e should
sup on bu tterm ilk.
too.
W ell, w e l l ! salm on is good, and w hisky is go o d
ii8
CH APTER
X II.
KILLARNEY— THE RACES— MUCKROSS.
T he races w ere as g a y as races could be, in spite o f o n e o r tw o
untoward acciden ts that arrived at the clo se o f tlie d ay’s sport.
W here all the people cam e from that thronged out o f th e tow n w as
a w o n d e r ; where all the vehicles, the cars, barouches and shandry
dans, the carts, the horse- and donkey-m en co u ld have foun d stable
and shelter, w ho can tell ?
O f all these equipages and d o n k eyp a ges
I had a fine view from Mrs. M acgillicu d d y’s window*^, and it w as
pleasant to see the happy faces shining under the blue clo ak s as th e
carts rattled by.
A very handsom e youn g la d y— I presum e M iss M a c G .— w h o
gives a hand to the diuwing-room and com es sm iling in w ith the tea
p ot— M iss M a c G ., I say, appeared to-day in a silk b o n n et and stiff
silk dress, with a brooch and a b la ck m antle, as sm art as a n y la d y in
the land, and lookin g as if she was accustom ed to her dress too,
w hich the housem aid on banks o f T h am es does n o t In d e e d , I
have n ot m et a m ore ladylike youn g person in Irelan d tlian M iss
M a c G . ; and w hen I saw her in a handsom e car on the course, I
was quite proud o f a bow.
T ram p in g thither, too, as hard as tliey could w'alk, and a s h a p p y
and sm iling as possible, were M a ry the coachm an’s w ife o f the d a y
before, and Johanna with the child, and presently the other y o u n g
la d y : the m an with the stick, you m ay b e s u r e : he w ould toil a y e a r
for that d ay’s pleasure. T h e y are all m ad for i t : p eop le w alk for m ile s
and m iles round to the r a c e ; they com e w ithout a p en n y in th e ir
p o ckets often, trusting to chance and charity, and that som e w orth y
gentlem an m ay fling them a sixpence. A gentlem an told m e tliat h e
saw on the course persons from his part o f the country, w ho m ust
have w alked eighty m iles for the sport.
F o r a m ile and a h a lf to the racecourse there co u ld b e n o
pleasanter occupation than lo o kin g at the h ap py m ultitudes w h o
w ere thronging th ith e r; and I am boun d to say that on rich o r p o o r
THE RACES.
119
shoulders I n ever saw so m any handsom e faces in m y life. In the
carriages, am o n g the ladies o f K erry, every secon d w om an w as
h a n d s o m e ; and there is som ething p eculiarly tender and p leasin g in
the lo o k s o f the y o u n g fem ale peasan try that is perhaps even better
than b eau ty .
B eggars had taken their stations along the road in no
great num bers, for I suspect they w ere m ost o f them on the ground,
an d th o se w ho rem ained w ere con sequently o f the oldest and ugliest.
I t is a sham e that such horrible figures are allow ed to appear in
p u b lic as som e o f the loathsom e ones w hich belo n g to these un happy
p eo p le. O n w en t the crow d, how ever, laughing and as gay as p o ss ib le ;
a ll sorts o f fun p assing from car- to foot-passengers as th e p retty girls
ca m e clatterin g by, and the “ b o y s ” had a w ord for each. O n e lady,
w ith lo n g flow ing auburn hair, w ho w as turning aw ay her head from
som e “ b o y s ’* very dem urely, I a ctu ally saw, at a pause o f the cart, kissed
b y o n e o f them .
She ga ve the fellow a huge b o x on the ear and h e
roared out, “ O m urther !** and she frow ned for some time as hard as
sh e co u ld , w hilst the ladies in the blue cloaks at the b a ck o f the car
u ttered a shrill rebuke in Irish. B ut in a m inute the w hole party was
grin n in g, and the yo u n g fellow w ho had adm inistered the salute m ay,
fo r w hat I know , have taken another w ithout the slap on the face b y
w a y o f exch an ge.
A n d here, lest the fair p ublic m ay h ave a b a d opinion o f the
p erson age w ho talks o f kissing w ith such awful levity, let it b e said
th at w ith all this laughing, rom ping, kissing, and the like, there are
n o m ore in n o cen t girls in the w orld than the Irish g ir ls ; and that the
w om en o f our squeam ish coun try are far m ore liable to err. O n e has
b ut to w alk through an E n glish and Irish town, and see how m uch
superior is the m orality o f the latter.
T h a t great terror-striker, the
C on fessional, is before the Irish girl, and sooner or later her sins
m ust b e told there.
B y this tim e w e are g o t upon the course, w hich is really one o f
the m ost beautiful spots that ever w as s e e n : the lake and m ountains
ly in g a lo n g tw o sides o f it, and o f course visib le from all. T h e y
w ere b u sy p uttin g up the hurdles w hen w e a rrived : stiff bars and
p oles, four feet from the ground, with furze-bushes o ver them . The
g ran d stand w as already f u l l ; alon g the hedges sat thousands o f the
p e o p le , sitting at their ease doin g nothing, and happy as kings. A
d a gu erreo typ e w ould h ave b een o f great service to have taken their
p ortraits, and I n ever saw a vast m ultitude o f heads and attitudes so
120
picturesque and lively. T h e sun lighted up the w hole course and th e
lakes with am azing brightness, though behind the form er la y a hu ge
rack o f the darkest clouds, against w hich the corn-fields and m eadow s
shone in the brightest green and gold, and a row o f w hite tents was
quite dazzling.
T h e re was a brightness and in telligence abou t this im m ense Irish
crow d, w hich I don ’t rem em ber to have seen in an E n glish one.
T h e wom en in their blue cloaks, with red sm iling faces p eerin g from
one end, and bare feet from the other, had seated them selves in all
sorts o f pretty attitudes o f cheerful co n te m p la tio n ; and the m en,
w ho are accustom ed to lie about, were doin g so n ow w ith a ll their
m ight— sprawling on the banks, with as m uch ease and va rie ty as
club-room loungers on their soft cushions,— or squatted leisurely
am ong the green potatoes.
T h e sight o f so much hap py lazin ess
did one g o o d to look on. N o r did the honest fellow s seem to w eary
o f this am usem ent. H ours passed on, and the gen tlefolks (judging
from our party) began to grow som ew hat w e a ry ; but the finest
peasantry in E urope never budged from their posts, and con tin ued to
indulge in greetings, in dolen ce, and conversation.
W lien w e cam e to the row o f w hite tents, as usual it did n o t lo o k
so brilliant or im posing as it appeared from a little distance, though
the scene around them was anim ating enough.
T h e ten ts were
lo n g hum ble booths stretched on hoops, each w ith its hum ble
stream er or ensign \rithout, and containing, o f course, articles o f
refreshm ent within. But F ath er M ath ew has been b u sy am o n g the
publicans, and the con sequence is that the p o or fellow s are now
condem ned for the m ost part to sell “ tay ” in p lace o f w h isky ; for
the co n co ctio n o f w hich beverage huge cauldrons were sm okin g, in
front o f each hut-door, in round graves dug for the purpose an d piled
up with b la ck sm oking sod.
B ehind this cam p were the carts o f the p oor people, w hich were
n ot allowêd to penetrate into, the quarter w here the q u a lity cars
stood. A n d a little w ay from the huts, again, you m ight see (for you
co u ld scarcely hear) certain pipers executing their m elod ies and
inviting peop le to dance.
A n yth in g m ore lugubrious than the drone o f the pipe, o r the jig
d anced to it, or the countenances o f the dancers and m usicians, I
n ever saw. R o u n d each set o f dancers the p eo p le form ed a ring,
in the w hich the figurantes and coryphees w ent through their opera-
THE RACES.
tions.
121
T h e toes w-ent in and the toes w ent o u t ; then there cam e
certain m ystic figures o f hands across, an d so forth. I n ever saw
less g ra ce o r seem ingly less enjoym ent— no, n ot even in a quadrille.
The p eo p le, how ever, to o k a great interest, and it \vas “ W ell done,
Tim ! ” “ Step out. M iss B rady I ” and so forth during the dance.
T h im ble-rig too obtain ed som ewhat, though in a hum ble way. A
ragged scoun drel— the im age o f H o g a rth ’s B ad A p p ren tice— went
bustling an d shouting through the crow d with his dirty tray and
thimble, and as soon as he had taken his post, stated that this was
the “ royal gam e o f thim ble ” and called upon “ gintlem in ” to com e
forward. A n d then a ragged fellow w ould be seen to approach, with
as innocent an air as he co u ld assum e, and the bystanders niight
remark that the secon d ragged fellow alm ost alw ays won. N ay, he
was so benevolen t, in m any instances, as to point out to various
people w ho had a m ind to bet, under w hich thim ble the pea actu ally
was. M eanw hile, the first fellow was sure to be lookin g aw ay and
talking to
som e one in the c r o w d ; but
som ehow it gen erally
happened— ând how o f course I can ’t tell— that any m an w ho listened
to the a d vice o f rascal N o. 2, lost his m oney. I believe it is so
even in E n gland.
Then you w ould see gen tlem en with halfpenny roulette-tables ;
and, again, here were a pair (indeed they are ver)' good portraits) who
122
cam e forward disinterestedly w ith a table and a p ack o f cards, and
began jilayin g against each other for ten shillings a gam e, betting
crow ns as freely as possible.
G am blin g, how ever, must h ave been fatal to b o th o f these
gentlem en, else m ight n ot one have supposed that, i f th e y were
in the habit o f w inning m uch, they w ould have treated them selves to
better clothes ?
T h is, how ever, is the w ay w ith all gam blers, as the
reader has no doubt rem arked : for, lo o k at a gam e o f lo o or
vhigM-un played in a friendly way, and w here you, an d three or
four others, have certain ly lost three or four pounds,— w ell, a sk at the
end o f the gam e w ho has w on, and you in variably find that n obo dy
has.
H o p k in s has only co vered h im se lf; Sn o ok s has n eith er lost
nor w o n ; Sm ith has won four shillings ; and so on.
W h o g e ts the
m on ey ? T h e d evil gets it, I dare s a y ; and so, n o doubt, h e has
la id hold o f the m on ey o f yon der gentlem an in the handsom e
great-coat.
But, to the sham e o f the stewards be it spoken, th ey are extrem ely
averse to this kin d o f s p o r t ; and presently com es up one, a stout
o ld gentlem an on a b ay horse, w ieldin g a huge hunting-w hip, a t the
sight o f w hich all fly, am ateurs, idlers, professional m en, an d a l l
He
is a rude custom er to deal with, that gentlem an with the w h ip : just
now he was clearing the course, and cleared it w ith such a ven gean ce,
that a w hole troop on a hedge retreated backw ards in to a ditch
opposite, where was rare kickin g, and sprawling, and disarrangem ent
o f petticoats, and cries o f “ O m u r th e r !”
“ M oth er o f G o d ! ”
“ I ’m k i l t ! ” and so on. B ut as soon as the horsew hip w’as go n e,
the people clam bered out o f their ditch again, and w'ere as th ic k as
ever on the bank.
T h e last instance o f the exercise o f the w hip shall b e this. A
groom rode in solently after a gentlem an, ca llin g him nam es, and
inviting him to fight. T h is the great flagellator hearing, ro d e u p to
the groom , lifted him gracefully o ff his horse into the air, an d on to
the ground, and w hen there adm inistered to him a severe an d m erited
fustigation ; after w hich h e told th e course-keepers to d rive the
fellow o ff the course, and enjoined th e latter n ot to ap p ear again at
his peril.
A s for the races them selves, I w on ’t preten d to say that th e y w ere
better or w orse than other such am usem ents ; or to quarrel w ith
gentlem en w ho choose to risk their lives in m anly exercise. In t h e
THE E M )
El' A
EAC/.:
123
nrsi r a ( '( 2 tliorc was a fall : C)nc o f llic jzciUiuiiicii was ( a ri i ad <s! tlu;
groun d, and it was said he ivas tkad. In the second race, a horse
and m an w en t over and over each other, and the fine youn g man
(we h a d seen him five m inutes before, full o f life and trium ph, clear
ing the h urdles on his grey horse, at the head o f the race) : ~ in the
second heat o f the second race the poor fellow m issed his leap, w'as
carried a w a y stunned and dying, and the b ay horse won.
I was standing, during the first heat o f this race, (this is the
second m an the g rey has killed — they ought to call him the P ale
Horse,) b y half-a-dozen yo u n g girls from the gen tlem an ’s village, and
hundreds m ore o f them were there, anxious for the honour o f their
village, the yo u n g squire, and the grey horse. O h, how th ey hurrah’d
as he rode ahead ! I saw these girls— they m ight b e fourteen years
old— âfter the catastrophe. “ W ell,” says I, “ this is a sad end to
the race.” “ A nd is it the pink jacket or the Idue has won this tim et ”
says one o f the girls. It w as p o or M r, C
’s o n ly epitaph : and
wasn’t it a sporting answ er ? T h a t girl ought to b e a hurdle-racePs
wife; and I would like, for m y part, to bestow her upon the groom
who won the race.
I don’t care to confess that the acciden t to the p o or y o u n g
gentleman so thoroughly disgusted m y feeling as a m an and a
cockney, that I turned o ff the racecourse short, and hired a horse
for sixpence to carry m e b a ck to M iss M acgillicu d d y.
In the
evening, at th e inn, (let n o m an w h o values com fort g o to an Irish
inn in lace-time,) a b lin d old piper, w ith silvery hair an d o f a m ost
respectable, bard-like appearan ce, p layed a great d eal too m uch for
us after dinner. H e p layed ve ry w ell, and w ith v e ry m uch feeling,
omamenting the airs w ith flourishes and variations that w ere very
pretty in d eed , and his p ip e w as b y far the m ost m elodious I have
heard; b u t h on est truth com p els m e to say, that the b a d pipes are
execrable, an d the g o o d inferior to a clarionet.
Next day, instead o f go in g b a ck to the racecourse, a ca r drove
me out to M uckross, w here, in M r. H erbert’s beautiful grounds, lies
the prettiest little bijou o f a ruined a b b ey ever seen— a little chapel
wkh a little chan cel, a little cloister, a little dorm itory, and in the
midst o f th e cloister a w onderful huge yew-tree w hich darkens the
whole place. T h e a b b ey is fam ous in b o o k and le g e n d ; nor could
two young lovers, or artists in search o f the picturesque, o r pienicpardes with th e cold ch icken and cham pagne in the distance, find a
124
m ore charm ing p lace to w hile aw ay a summer’s d a y than in the p ark
o f M r. H erbert.
But depend on it, for show -places and the due
enjoym ent o f scenery, that distance o f co ld chicken s an d cham pagne
is the m ost pleasing perspective one can have. I w ou ld h ave sacri
ficed a m ountain or two for the above, and w ould h ave p itch ed
M angerton into the lake for the sake o f a friend w ith w hom to en jo y
the rest o f the landscape.
T h e w alk through Mr. H erb ert’s dem esne carries you, through
all sorts o f beautiful avenues, b y a fine house w hich he is b u ild in g
in the E lizabeth an style, and from w hich, as from the w hole road,
you com m and the m ost w onderful rich view s o f the lake. T h e shore
breaks into little bays, w hich the w ater w-ashes; here and th ere are
picturesque gray rocks to m eet it, the bright grass as often, o r th e
shrubs o f every kin d w hich bathe their roots in the lake.
I t w as
A ugust, and the men before T u rk C o ttag e w ere cuttin g a seco n d cro p
o f clover, as fine, seem ingly, as a first crop e lse w h e re : a short w a lk
from it brought us to a neat lodge, w hen ce issued a k eep er w ith a
key, quite w illing, for the consideration o f sixpence, to co n d u ct us to
T u rk waterfall.
Evergreen s and other trees, in their brightest liv e r y ; b lu e s k y ;
roaring water, here b la ck, and yon der foam ing o f a d azzlin g w h it e ;
rocks shining in the dark places, or frow ning b la ck against th e ligh t,
all the leaves and branches keep in g up a perpetual w av in g a n d
dan cin g round about the c a s c a d e : w hat is the use o f p u ttin g d o w n
all this ? A m an m ight describe the cataract o f the Serp en tin e in
exa ctly the sam e terms, and the reader b e n o wiser. Suffice it to say,
that the T u rk cascade is even handsom er than the b e fo re -m e n tio n ^
w-aterfall o f O ’Sullivan, and that a man m ay pass h a lf an ho u r there,
an d look, and listen, and muse, and n ot even feel the w ant o f a co m
panion, or so m uch as think o f the iced cham pagne. T h e re is ju st
enough o f savageness in the T u rk cascade to m ake the view piquante.
It is not, at this season at least, b y an y m eans fierce, o n ly w ild ; nor
was the scene p eop led b y any o f the rude, red-shanked figures that
• clustered about the trees o f O ’Sullivan’s w-aterfall,— savages w on ’t pay
sixpence for the prettiest w aterfall ever seen— so that this o n ly w as for
th e best o f com pany.
T h e road hence to K illa m e y carries on e through M u ck ro ss village,
a p retty cluster o f houses, w here the sketcher w ill find abundant
m aterials for exercising his art and p uzzlin g his hand. T h e re are not
MUCKROSS.
125
o n ly n oble trees, b u t a green com m on and an old water-gate to a
river, lined on eith er side b y bed s o f rushes and discharging itself
ben eath an o ld m ill-w heel. B ut the old m ill-wheel w as p erfectly idle,
lik e m ost m en an d m ill-wheels in this c o u n tr y : b y it is a ruinous
house, and a fine garden o f stin g in g -n ettles; opposite it, on the
com m on , is another ruinous house, with another garden containing
th e sam e p la n t ; and far aw ay are sharp ridges o f purple hills, w hich
m a k e as p retty a landscape as the eye can see. I don ’t know how it
is, b u t throughout the coun try the m en and the landscapes seem
to b e the sam e, and one and the other seem ragged, ruined, and
c h e e r fu l
H a v in g been em ployed all day (m aking som e abom inable attem pts
a t landscape-draw ing, w hich shall n ot b e exh ib ited here), it becam e
requisite, as the evening approached, to recruit an exhausted co ck n e y
stom ach— w hich, after a very m oderate portion o f exercise, begins to
sigh fo r beef-steaks in the m ost perem ptory manner. H ard b y is a
fine hotel w ith a fine sign stretching alon g the road for the space o f a
dozen w indow s at least, and lo o kin g inviting enough. A ll the doors
were open, and I w alked into a great num ber o f room s, but the only
person I saw w as a w om an w ith trinkets o f arbutus, w ho offered me,
by w ay o f refreshm ent, a w alking-stick or a card-rack. I suppose
everybody w as at the r a c e s ; and an evilly-disposed person m ight
have laid maind>asse upon the great-coats w hich were there, and the
tilver-spoons, if b y any m iracle such things were k e p t— but Britanniametal is the favourite com position in Irelan d ; or else iron b y it s e lf ;
or else iron th at has been silvered over, but that takes go o d care to
peep out at all the com ers o f the forks : and blessed is the traveller
who has n o t other observations to m ake regarding his fork, besides
the mere abrasion o f the silver.
T h is w as the last d a y ’s race, and on the n ext m orning (Sunday),
all the thousands w ho had crow ded to the race seem ed trooping to
the chapels, and the streets w ere blue w ith cloaks. W a lkin g in to
prayers, an d w ithout his board, p im e m y youn g friend o f the thim bleand presen tly after sauntered in the fellow with the long coat,
who h ad p layed at cards for sovereigns. I should like to hear the
confession o f him self and friend the n ext tim e they com m unicate
with his reverence.
T h e exten t o f this tow n is very curious, and I should im agine its
po pu latio n to b e m uch greater than five thousand, w hich was the
126
num ber, a cco rd in g to M iss M acgillicu d d y.
A lo n g the three main
streets are num erous arches, dow n every one o f w hich runs an alley,
intersected by other alleys, and swarm ing with people. A stream or
gu tter nins com m on ly dow n these alleys, in w hich the p igs and
children are seen jiad d lin g about. T h e m en and w om en lo ll a t their
doors or w indows, to en jo y the detestable p ro s p e ct
I saw tw o pigs
under a fresh-made deal staircase in one o f the m ain streets n ear th e
B r id e w e ll: two vciy^ well-dressed girls, w ith their hair in ringlets,
w ere lo o kin g out o f the p arlour-w in dow ; alm ost all th e glass in the
upper room s w as o f course sm ashed, the w indow s p atch ed here
and there (if the peop le were careful), the w ood-work o f the d o o r
loose, the w hitew ash peelin g off,— ând the house evid en tly n o t tw o
years old.
B y the
B ridew ell is a busy potato-m arket, picturesque to the
sketcher, if not very respectable to the m e rc h a n t: here w ere the
country carts and the coun try clo ak s, and the shrill b egga rly bargains
go in g on— a w orld o f shrieking and gesticulating, and talk, ab ou t a
p ennyw orth o f potatoes.
A ll round the tow n m iserable streets o f cabins are s tre tch e d Y o u
see p eop le lolling at each door, w om en staring and co m bin g their
hair, men w ith their little pipes, children w hose rags h a n g o n b y a
m iracle, idling in a gutter.
A re w e to set a ll this dow n to a b ^ -
teeism , and p ity poor injured Irela n d ?
I s the landlord’s a bsen ce the
N E E D FU L REFORMS.
127
reason w h y the house is filthy, and B id d y lolls in the porch all d ay ?
U p o n m y w ord, I have heard p eop le talk as if, w hen P a t’s thatch
was blowm off, the landlord ought to g o fetch the straw and the ladder,
and m e n d it himself. P e o p le n eed n ot be dirty if they are ever so
idle ; i f th e y are ever so poor, pigs and m en n eed n ot live together.
H alf-an-hour’s w'ork, and digging a trench, m ight rem ove that filthy
d un gh ill from that filthy w indow . T h e sm oke m ight as w ell com e
out o f the ch im n ey as out o f the door. W h y should n ot T im do that,
instead o f w alkin g a hundred-and-sixty m iles to a race ? T h e priests
m ight d o m u ch m ore to effect these reform s than even the landlords
th e m s e lv e s : and I hope now that the excellen t F ath er M ath ew has
succeeded in arraying his clergy to w ork w ith him in the abolition o f
drunkenness, th ey will a tta ck the m onster D irt, with the sam e go o d
will, and su rely w ith the sam e success.
128
THE IRISH SK E TCH BOO K
CH APTER
X III.
TRALKK— LISTOWEL— TAREERT.
I MADE the journ ey to T ra lee n ext day, upon one o f the fam ous Bianconi cars— very com fortable co n veyan ces too, if the booking-officers
w ould only receive as m any persons as the car w ould hold, and n ot
have too m any on the seats. F o r half-an-hour before the ca r left
K illa m e y , I observed peop le had taken their seats : and, le t all
travellers b e cautious to do likewise, lest, although th ey h ave b o o k e d
their places, they be rec|uested to m ount on the roof, and acco m m o d ate
them selves on a band-box, or a pleasant deal trunk with a kn o tted rope,
to prevent it from bein g slippery, w hile the co m er o f another b o x jo lts
against your ribs for the journey. I had put m y co at on a p lace, an d
was stepping to it, when a lo vely lad y with great a ctivity ju m p ed u p an d
pushed the coat on the roof, and n ot o n ly occup ied m y seat, b u t in
sisted that her husband should have the n ext one to her. So there w as
n othing for it but to m ake a huge shouting w ith the bo o k-k eeper a n d
call instantly for the taking dow n o f m y luggage, and vow m y grea t g o d s
that I w ould take a ])Ostchaise and m ake the office p a y : on w h ich ,
I am asham ed to say, som e other person was m ade to g iv e u p a
decen tly com fortable seat on the roof, w hich I occup ied, the fo rm er
occupant hanging on— heaven know s w here or how.
A com pan y o f youn g squires were on the coach , and th ey ta lk e d
o f horse-racing and hunting punctually for three hours, during w h ich
tim e I do believe they did not utter one single w ord upon a n y o th e r
s u b je c t
W hat a w onderful facu lty it is ! T h e w riters o f N a tu ra l
H istories, in describing the n oble horse, should say he is m ad e n o t
o n ly to run, to carry burdens, & c,, but to b e talked a b o u t W h a t
w ould hundreds o f thousands o f dashing yo u n g fellow s do w ith th e ir
tongues, if they had n ot this blessed su bject to discourse o n ?
A s far as the coun try w ent, there w as here, to b e sure, n o t m uch
to be said. Y o u pass through a sad-looking, bare, un dulating co un try,
with few trees, and poor stone-hedges, and poorer crops ; n or h a v e I
y e t U k en in Irelan d so dull a ride.
A b o u t h a lf w ay betw een T ra le e
and K illa m e y is a w retched town, w here horses are ch an ged , and
THE CHAPEL.
129
w h ere I saw m o re hideous beggary than anyw here else, I think. A n d
I w as glad to g e t o ver this gloom y tract o f country, and enter the
ca p ita l o f K e rry .
I t has a handsom e description in the gu ide-books; but, i f I m istake
n ot, the E n glish traveller will find a stay o f a couple o f hours in the
to w n quite sufficient to gratify his curiosity with respect to the p lace.
T h e re seem s to b e a great deal o f poor business go in g o n ; the town
th ron ged w ith peop le as u s u a l; the shops large and not too splendid.
T h e r e are tw o or three rows o f respectable houses, and a m all, and
th e tow n speople have the further privilege o f w alking in the neigh
b o u rin g grounds o f a handsom e park, w hich the proprietor has liber
a lly given to their use.
T ra lee has a newspaper, and boasts o f a
co u p le o f c lu b s : the one I saw was a b ig white house, no window s
b ro k en , and lo o kin g com fortable. B ut the m ost curious sight o f the
tow n wras the chapel, with the festival held there. I t was the feast o f
th e A ssu m ption o f the V irgin , (let those w ho are acquainted with the
calen dar an d the facts it com m em orates say w hat the feast was, and
w hen it falls,) and all the country seem ed to be present on the o cca
s io n : the chapel and the large court leading to it were thronged
w ith w orshippers, such as one never sees in our country, where devo
tio n is b y n o m eans so crow ded as here. H ere, in the court-yard,
th ere w ere thousands o f them on their knees, rosary in hand, for the
m ost part praying, and m um bling, and casting a wustful look round as
the strangers passed. In a co m er w as an old m an groaning in the
agonies o f death or colic, and a w om an go t o ff her knees to ask us
for charity for the unhappy old fellow .
In the chapel the crow d was
enorm ous : the priest and his p eople were kneeling, and bowing, and
hum m ing, and chanting, and cen sor-rattlin g; the gh o stly crew bein g
attended b y a fellow that I don’t rem em ber to have seen in co n ti
nental churches, a sort o f C a th o lic clerk, a b la ck shadow to the
parson, bowdng his head when his reverence bow ed, kn eeling w hen h e
knelt, o n ly three steps lower.
B u t w e w ho w onder at copes and candlesticks, see nothing strange
in surplices and beadles. A T u rk , doubtless, w ould sneer equally a t
each, an d h ave you to understand that the o n ly reasonable cerem onial
was that w hich took p lace at his mosque.
W h eth e r right or w rong m point o f cerem ony, it was evident th e
heart o f devotion was t h e r e : the im m ense dense crow d m oaned and
sw ayed, and yo u heard a hum o f all sorts o f w ild ejaculations, each
9
130
man praying seem ingly for him self, w hile the service w ent on at the
altar. T h e altar candles flickered red in the dark, steam ing p lace,
and every now' and then from the choir you heard a sw eet fem ale
vo ice chanting M ozart’s m usic, w hich sw'ept o ver the heads o f the
p eople a great deal m ore pure and delicious than the best in cen se
that ever sm oked out o f pot.
O n the chapel-floor, just at the entry, la y several p eop le m oanin g,
and tossing, and telling their beads. Behind the old w'oman w'as a
font o f h o ly w'ater, up to which little children were cla m b erin g ; and
in the chapel-yard were several old wom en, w ith tin cans full o f the
LJSTOWEL.
131
sam e sacred fluid, w ith w hich the people, as th ey entered, aspersed
th em selves w ith all their m ight, flickin g a great quantity into their
faces, a n d m akin g a curtsey and a p rayer at the sam e tim e. “ A
p retty prayer, t r u ly ! ” says the parson’s wife.
“ AVhat sad, sad,
ben igh ted superstition ” says the In dep en d en t m inister’s lady. A h !
ladies, g rea t as yo u r in telligence is, y et think, w hen com pared w ith
the Suprem e O n e, w hat a little difference there is after all betw een
yo u r husbands’ very best extem pore oration and the p oor Popish
1
creatures’ ! O n e is ju st as far o ff Infinite W isdom as the o t h e r : and
so let us read the story o f the w om an and her p o t o f ointm ent, that
m ost n ob le and charm ing o f h isto rie s; w hich equalizes the great and
the small, the w ise and the p oor in spirit, and shows that their m erit
before heaven lies in doing their best
^\^len I cam e out o f the chapel, the old fellow on the point o f death
was still how lin g and groaning in so vehem en t a m anner, that I heartily
trust he w as an im postor, and that on receivin g a sixpence he w ent
home tolerably com fortable, havin g secured a m aintenance for that day.
But it w ill b e lo n g before I can forget the strange, vnld scene, so
entirely different w as it from the decen t and com fortable observances
of our own church.
T hree cars set o ff togeth er from T ra le e to T a r b e r t : three cars full
to overflowing. T h e veh icle before us con tain ed nineteen persons,
half-a-dozen b e in g p laced in the receptacle called the well, and one
clinging on as i f b y a m iracle at the bar behind. W h at can p eop le
want at T arb ert ? I w o n d e re d ; or anyw here else, indeed, that they rush
about from o n e tow n to another in this in conceivable w ay ? A ll the
cars in all the tow ns seem to b e th r o n g e d : p eople are perpetually
hunying from one dism al tum ble-down town to a n o th e r; and y et no
business is don e anyw here that I can see.
T h e c h ie f part o f the
contents o f our three cars was discharged at L istow el, to w hich, for
the greater part o f the journ ey, the road was neither m ore cheerful
nor picturesque than that from K illa m e y to T ralee. A s, how ever,
you reach L istow el, th e co u n tiy becom es better cultivated, the gen
tlemen’s seats are m ore frequent, and the town itself, as seen from a
little distance, lies v e ry p rettily on a river, w hich is crossed b y a
handsom e brid ge, w hich leads to a neat-looking square, w hich co n
tains a sm artish church, w hich is flanked b y a b ig R om an C a th o lic
chapel, & c . A n old castle, gray and ivy-covered, stands hard by.
I t w as one o f the strongholds o f the L ord s o f K e rry, w hose burying-
132
p lace (accordin g to the inform ation o f the coachm an) is seen a t about
a league from the town.
B ut p retty as L isto w el is from a distance, it has, on a m ore inti
m ate acquaintance, b y no m eans the prosperous app earan ce w hich a
first glan ce gives it. T h e p lace seem ed lik e a scen e at a coun try
theatre, once sm artly painted b y the a r tis t; b u t the pain t has crack ed
in m any places, the lines are w orn aw ay, and the w hole p iece only
lo o ks m ore shabby for the flaunting strokes o f the brush w hich remain.
A n d here, o f course, cam e the usual crow d o f idlers round the c a r :
the epileptic idiot holdin g piteously out his em pty tin sn u ff-b o x ; the
brutal idiot, in an old soldier’s coat, proffering his m on ey-box and
grinning and clatterin g the single halfpenny it contained ; th e old
m an with no eyelids, callin g upon you in the nam e o f the L o r d ; the
w om an ^ ith a child at her hideous, >vrinkled b re a st; the ch ild ren
w ithout num ber. A s for trade, there seem ed to b e n o n e : a great
Jerem y-D id dler kin d o f hotel stood hard by, sw'aggering and out-atelbow s, and six p retty girls w ere sm iling out o f a b egga rly strawbonn et shop, dressed as sm artly as a n y gen tlem an ’s daugh ters o f
go o d estate. It was good, am ong the crow d o f bustling, shriekin g
fellow s, w ho w ere “ jaw in g ” vastly and doin g nothing, to see h o w an
En glish bagm an, w ith scarce any words, laid hold o f an ostler, carried
him o ff 77 ct armis in the m idst o f a speech, in w hich the la tte r w as
go in g to explain his im m ense activity and desire to serve, p ushed him
into a stable, from w hich he issued in a tw inkling, leadin g th e ostler
and a horse, and had his bag on the car and his horse o ff in abou t
t\vo m inutes o f tim e, w hile the natives were still shouting rou n d abou t
other passengers’ portm anteaus.
Som e tim e afterwards, aw ay w e rattled on our ow n jo u rn e y to
T arbert, havin g a postilion on ^ e leader, and receivin g, I m ust say,
som e graceful bow s from the youn g bonnet-m akeresses. B u t o f all
the roads over w hich human bones w ere ever jo lte d , the first p art o f
this from L isto w el to T arb ert deserves the palm . I t sh o o k us all
in to h e a d a c h e s ; it shook som e nails out o f the side o f a b o x I h a d ;
it shook all tlie co rd s loose in a tivinkling, and sent th e ba gga ge
bum ping about the passengers* shoulders. T h e coachm an a t th e call
o f another E n glish bagm an, w ho was a fellow -traveller,— the p o sd lio n
a t the ca ll o f the coachm an, descen ded to re-cord the baggage. T h e
E n glish bagm an had the w hole mass o f trunks and bags stou tly corded
and firm ly fixed in a few s e c o n d s ; the coachm an h elp ed him as fiu
LISTO W EL TO TARBERT.
133
a s h is m ean s a llo w e d ; the postilion stood b y w ith his hands in his
p o ck ets, sm okin g his pipe, and n ever offering to stir a finger. I said
to him th a t I w as d eligh ted to see in a yo u th o f sixteen th at extrem e
a ctiv ity an d w illingness to o b lige, and that I w ou ld giv e him a hand
som e rem uneration for his services a t the end o f the jo u r n e y : the
yo u n g rascal grinned w ith all his m ight, understanding the satiric
n ature o f th e address p erfectly w e l l ; b u t he did not take his hands
o u t o f h is p o ck e ts for all that, until it w as tim e to get on his horse
aga in , a n d then, havin g carried us o ver the m ost difficult part o f
the jo u rn ey, rem oved his horse and pipe, and rode aw ay w ith a
p artin g grin.
T h e cab in s alon g the road w ere n ot m uch better than those to b e
seen south o f T ra lee , b u t the p eo p le w ere far better clo th ed , and
in d u lged in several p laces in the luxury o f pigsties.
N ear the
p rettily situated village o f B allylon gford, w e cam e in sight o f the
Shan non m o u th ; and a huge red round m oon, that shone behind an
o ld co n v e n t on the banks o f the bright river, w ith dull green m eadow s
betw een it an d us, and w hite purple flats beyon d, w ould b e a go o d
su b ject fo r the pen cil o f a n y artist w hose wrist had n ot been put out
o f jo in t b y the previous ten miles* journ ey.
T h e tow n o f T arbert, in the guide-books and topograph ical
dictionaries, flourishes considerably. Y o u read o f its port, its c o m
and provision stores, & c., and o f certain g o o d h o te ls ; for w hich as
travellers w e were lo o kin g w ith a laudable anxiety.
T h e towm, in
fact, con tain s abou t a dozen o f houses. Some hundreds o f cabins, and
two h o t e ls ; to one o f w hich we w ere driven, and a kin d landlady,
conducting her half-dozen guests into a snug parlour, was for our
ordering refreshm ent im m ediately,— w hich I certain ly should have
done, b u t for the om inous w hisper o f a fellow in the crow d as w e
descended (o f course a disinterested patron o f the other house),
who hissed into m y ears,
Ask to see the beds A' w'hich proposal,
accordingly, I m ade before com in g to an y determ ination regard
ing supper.
T h e w orthy landlady eluded m y question several tim es w ith great
skill a n d good-hum our, but it becam e at length necessary to answ er i t ;
which she did b y p utting on as confident an air as possible, and lead
ing th e w ay upstairs to a bed-room , w here there w as a g o o d large
co m fo rta b le b e d certainly.
T h e o n ly o b jectio n to the b ed , how ever, w as that it contained a
134
th e
IRISH S K E T C H BOOK.
sick lady, w hom the hostess proposed to e je ct w ith out a n y cerem ony,
saying that she was a great deal better, and go in g to g e t up that very
evening. H o w ever, none o f us had the heart to tyrannize o ver lo v e ly
w om an in so painful a situation, and the hostess h ad th e g r ie f o f
seeing four out o f her five guests repair across the w ay to “ Brallaghan’s ”
or “ G allagher’s H o te l,”— the nam e has fled from m y
m em ory, but it is the b ig hotel in the p la c e ; and unless the sick la d y
has quitted the other inn, w hich m ost lik e ly she has d o n e b y this
tim e, the E n glish traveller w ill profit b y this a d vice, and on arriv a l at
T arb ert w ill have him self transported to “ G allagher’s ” a t once.
T h e n ext m orning a car carried us to T arb ert P o in t, w here there
is a pier n ot y et com p leted, and a P reven tive station, and w here the
Shannon steam ers touch, that p ly betw een K ilru sh an d L im erick .
H e re lay the fam ous river before us, with low banks and rich pastures
on either side.
(
13S
C H A P T E R X IV .
LIMERICK.
A CAPITAL Steamer, w hich on this d ay was thronged with peop le,
carried us for abou t four hours dow n the n oble stream and landed
us a t L im erick quay. T h e character o f the landscape on either side
the stream is not particularly picturesque, but large, liberal, and
prosperous. G en tle sweeps o f rich m eadow s and corn-fields co ver
the ban k s, and som e, though n ot too m any, gen tlem en ’s parks and
plantations rise here and there. B ut the landscape was som ehow
m ore pleasin g than if it had been m erely p ictu re sq u e ; and, especially
after com in g out o f that desolate coun ty o f K e rry, it was pleasant for
the eye to rest upon this peaceful, rich, and generous scene. T h e
first aspect o f L im erick is very smart and pleasin g : fine neat quays
with considerable liveliness and bustle, a very handsom e bridge (the
W ellesley Bridge) before the sp e c ta to r; w ho, ^ te r a w alk through two
long and flourishing streets, stops at length at one o f the best inns in
Ireland-rthe large, neat, and prosperous one kep t b y M r. Cruise.
Except at Y o u g h a l, and the p oor fellow w hom the Englishm an
belaboured at G lengariff, Mr. Cruise is the only landlord o f an inn I
have had the honour to see in Ireland. I b elieve these gentlem en
commonly (and ver>' naturally") prefer riding with the hounds, o r
manly sports, to attendan ce on their g u ests; and the landladies, if
they prefer to p la y the piano, or to have a gam e o f cards in the
parlour, o n ly show a taste at w hich no one can w o n d e r: for w ho can
expect a la d y to b e troubling h erself with vulgar chance-custom ers,
or looking after M o lly in the bed-room or w aiter T im in the cella r?
Now, b e yo n d this p iece o f inform ation regarding the excellen ce
of Mr. C ru ise’s hotel, w hich every traveller knows, the w riter o f this
doubts very m uch w hether he has anything to say about L im erick
that is w orth the trouble o f saying or reading. I can’t attem pt to
describe the Shannon, o n ly to say that on board the steam boat there
was a p iper and a bugler, a hundred o f gen teel persons com ing b a ck
from donkey-riding and bath ing at K ilk e e , a couple o f heaps o f raw
h ides that sm elt very foully, a score o f wom en nursing children, and
136
a lobster-vendor, w ho vow ed to m e on his honour that h e ga ve eightp en ce a-piecc for his fish, and that he had b o iled them only the d ay
b e fo r e ; but w hen I produced the G uide-book, and solem n ly to ld him
to swear upon that to the truth o f his statem ent, the lobster-seller
turned aw ay quite abashed, and w ould n ot b e brought to support his
previous assertion at all. W ell, this is no description o f the Shannon,
as you have no need to be told, and other travelling co ck n e y s w ill
no doubt m eet neither jiiper n or lobster-seller, n or raw h id e s ; nor, i f
they com e to the inn where this is w ritten, is it p robable th at th ey
w ill hear, as I do this present mom ent, tw o fellow s w ith red w hiskers,
and im m ense pom p and noise and blustering w ith the w aiter, co n
clude b y ordering a pint o f ale betw een them. A ll tliat o n e can
hope to do is, to give a sort o f notion o f the m ovem ent and m anners
o f the p e o p le ; pretending b y no m eans to offer a description o f
jjlaces, but sim ply an accoun t o f w hat one sees in them.
So that if any traveller after staying two days in L im erick should
think fit to present the reader with forty or fifty i>ages o f dissertation
upon the antiquities and history o f the place, upon the state o f com
m erce, religion, education, the p ublic m ay b e p retty w'ell sure that
th e traveller has been at w ork am ong the guide-books, and filching
extracts from the topographical and local works.
T h e y say there are three towns to m ake one L im e r ic k : there is
the Irish T o w n on the C lare s id e ; the E n glish T o w n w ith its old
castle (w hich has sustained a deal o f battering and blo w s from
D an es, from fierce Irish kings, from English warriors w ho to o k an
interest in the p lace, H e n ry Secundians, E lizabethans, C rom w ellian s,
and, vice vcrsh, Jacobites, K in g W illiam ites,— and n early escap ed
b ein g in the hands o f the R o b e rt E m m e ttite s); an d finally the district
called N ew tow n-Pery.
In w alking through this latter tract, y o u are
at first h a lf led to believe that you are arrived in a secon d L iv erp o o l,
so tall are the w arehouses and broad the q u a y s ; so n eat an d trim a
street o f near a m ile w hich stretches before you. B ut even this m ilelong street does not, in a few m inutes, appear to b e so w'ealthy an d
prosperous as it shows at first g la n c e ; for o f the p opulation that
throng the streets, two-fifths are barefooted w’om en, and two-fifths
m ore ragged men : and the m ost part o f the shops w hich h a v e a
grand .show with them appear, w hen lo o k ed into, to b e n o better
than they should be, b ein g em pty m akeshift-looking p lace s w ith
their best goods outside.
LIMERICK.
137
H e re , in this handsom e street too, is a handsom e club-house, with
plenty o f idlers, yo u m ay be sure, lolling at the p o rtic o ; likew ise you
see num erous yo u n g officers, with very tight waists and absurd brass
shell-epaulettes to their little absurd frock-coats, w alkin g the pave
ment— th e dandies o f the stre et T h e n yo u behold w hole troops o f
pear-, apple-, and plum -wom en, selling very raw, green-looking fruit,
which, in d eed , it is a w onder that any one should eat and live. T h e
houses a re bright re d — the street is full and gay, carriages and cars in
plenty g o jin g lin g b y — dragoons in red are every now a nd then clatter
ing u p th e street, and as upon every car w hich passes with ladies in
it you are sure (I d o n ’t know how it is) to see a pretty one, the great
street o f L im erick is altogether a very brilliant and anim ated sight.
I f th e ladies o f the p lace are pretty, indeed the vu lgar are scarcely
less so. I n ever saw a greater num ber o f kind, pleasing, clever-looking
faces am o n g any set o f people. T h e re seem , howêver, to be t^vo
sorts o f physiognom ies w hich are com m on : the pleasing and som e
what m elan ch o ly one before m entioned, and a square, high-cheeked,
flat-nosed physiognom y, n ot un com m only accom pan ied b y a hideous
staring head o f dry red hair. E x cep t, how ever, in the latter case, the
hair flo w in g loose and lo n g is a p retty characteristic o f the w om en o f
the c o u n t r y : m any a fair one do you see at the door o f the cabin, or
th e p o o r shop in the town, com bin g com p lacen tly that “ greatest
o rn am en t o f fem ale b eauty,” as Mr. R ow lan d ju stly calls it.
T h e gen erality o f the w om en here seem also m uch better clothed
th a n in K e r r y ; and I saw m any a one go in g barefoot, w hose gow n
w a s n everth eless a g o o d one, and w hose clo ak w as o f fine cloth.
L ik e w is e it must b e rem arked, that the beggars in L im erick w ere b y
n o m ean s so num erous as those in C o rk, or in m any small places
th ro u gh w hich I have passed. T h e re w ere but five, strange to say,
ro u n d the m ail-coach as w e w ent a w a y ; and, indeed, n ot a great
n u m b e r in the streets.
T h e belles lettres seem to b e b y n o m eans so w ell cultivated here
a s in C o rk .
I lo o ked in vain for a L im erick gu ide-bo o k : I saw but
o n e g o o d shop o f bo o ks, and a little trum pery circulating library,
w h ich seem ed to b e provid ed w ith those im m ortal w orks o f a year
o ld — w hich, havin g been sold for half-a-guinea the volum e at first,
are su d d en ly found to b e worth o n ly a shilling. A m o n g these, let
m e m ention, w ith p erfect resignation to the decrees o f fate, the w orks
o f o n e T itm a r s h : they were rather sm artly boun d b y an enterprising
138
publisher, and I lo o ked at them in B ishop M urphy’s L ib ra ry a t C o rk,
in a book-shop in the rem ote little town o f Ennis, and elsew here,
w ith a m elan choly tenderness. P o o r flow’erets o f a s e a s o n ! (and a
v e ry short season too), le t m e b e allow'cd to salute y o u r scattered
leaves with a passing s i g h ! . . . . B esides the book-shops, I observed
in the long, b est street o f L im erick a half-dozen o f w hat are ca lled
F ren ch shops, with kn ickn acks. G erm an-silver chim ney-om am ents,
and paltry finery'. In the window's o f these yo u saw a ca rd w ith
“ C i g a r s ; ” in the book-shop, “ C ig a r s ; ” at the grocer’s, the w h iskyshop, “ C igars : ” everyb o d y sells the noxious w'eed, o r m akes b e lie v e
to sell it, and I kn ow no surer indication o f a struggling, u n certain
trade than that same placard o f “ C igars.” I w ent to b u y som e o f th e
p retty L im erick glo ves (they are chiefly m ade, as I h ave sin ce dis
co vered , at C ork). I think the man w ho sold them had a p ate n t
from the Q ueen, or his E xcelle n cy , or both, in his w in d o w : b ut,
seeing a friend pass ju st as I entered the shop, he brushed p ast, an d
h eld his friend in conversation for som e m inutes in the street,— âbout
the K illa m e y races no doubt, or the fun go in g on at K ilk e e .
I
m ight have sw'cpt aw'ay a bagful o f w alnut - shells con tain in g th e
flim sy g lo v e s ; but instead w'alked out, m aking him a lo w b o w , an d
sayin g I w ould call n ext w'eek.
resum ed his co n versatio n ;
H e said “ w'ouldn’t I w a it ? ” and
and, no doubt, b y this w ay o f doin g
business, is m aking a handsom e independence. I asked one o f the
ten thousand fruit-women the price o f her green pears. “ T w o p e n ce
a-piece,” she s a id ; and there w'ere tw o little ragged beggars stan din g
b y , who were m unching the fruit. A book-shopw om an m ade m e p ay
threepence for a bottle o f ink w'hich usually costs a p e n n y ; a potatow om an told m e that her potatoes cost fourteenpence a s t o n e : and
all these ladies treated the stranger with a leering, w heedlin g servility
w hich m ade m e lon g to b o x their ears, w ere it n o t that the m an w ho
lays his hand upon a w'oman is an & c ., w hom ’tw ere gross flattery to
call a what-crye-call-’im ? B y the w'ay, the m an w'ho p lay ed D u ke
A ra n za at C o rk delivered the celebrated claptrap a b ove a llu d ed to as
fo llo w s :—
** T h e m an w h o la y s h is h an d u p o n a w o m an .
S a v e in th e w a y o f kin d n ess, is a v illa in ,
W h o m *tw ere a gross piece o f fla ttery to c a ll a c o w a r d ; ”
and lo o k ed round calm ly for the applause, w hich d eserved ly follow ed
his n ew reading o f the passage.
LIMERICK.
139
T o return to the apple-wom en :— legions o f ladies w ere em ployed
through th e tow n upon that tra ffic; there were really thousands o f
them , clu sterin g upon the bridges, squatting down in doorw ays and
vacan t sheds for tem porary m arkets, m arching and cryin g their sour
g o o d s in a ll the crow ded lanes o f the city.
A fte r you get out o f the
M ain S treet the handsom e part o f the tow n is a t an end, and you
s u d d e n ly find yo u rself in such a labyrinth o f bu sy swarm ing poverty
a n d squalid com m erce as n ever w as seen— no, n ot in Saint G iles’s,
w here J e w and Irishm an side b y side exh ib it their genius for dirt.
H e re e v e ry house alm ost was a h a lf ruin, and swarm ing w ith p e o p le :
in the cellars you lo o ked dow n and saw a barrel o f herrings, w hich a
m erch an t was d isp en sin g ; o r a sack o f m eal, w hich a poor dirty
w om an sold to p eople poorer and dirtier than h erself: above was a
tinm an, or a shoem aker, or other craftsm an, his battered ensign at the
door, an d his sm all wares peerin g through the crack ed panes o f his
shop. A s for the ensign, as a m atter o f course the nam e is never
written in letters o f the sam e size. Y o u read—
JAME.’ HURL®^
TA lUO/L
SHOE
M A K * ’'
or som e sim ilar signboard.
H ig h and low, in this country, they
begin things on too large a scale.
T h e y begin churches too b ig and
can’t finish t h e m ; m ills and houses too big, and are ruined before
they are d o n e ; letters on signboards too big, and are up in a co m er
before th e inscription is finished. T h e re is som ething quite strange,
really, in this gen eral consistency.
W ell, o ver Jam es H u rley, or P a t H anlahan, you w ill m ost likely
see another board o f another tradesm an, with a w indow to the full as
curious.
A b o v e T im C arth y evidently lives another family.
T h e re
are long-haired girls o f fourteen at every one o f the window s, and
dirty children everyw here.
In the cellars, lo o k at them in d in gy
white n ightcaps over a bow l o f s tira b o u t; in the shop, padd lin g up
and dow n the ruined steps, or issuing from beneath the b la ck
c o u n te r ; u p a b o v e, see th e girl o f fourteen is tossing and dandlin g
one o f t h e m : and a p retty tender sight it is, in the m idst o f this filth
and w retch edn ess, to see the w om en and children together. It m akes
a sunshine in the dark place, and som ehow h a lf recon ciles one to i t
C h ild ren are everywhere. L o o k out o f the nasty streets into the still
140
TH E IR ISH S K E T C H BOOK.
m ore nasty b a ck lanes : there they are, spraw ling a t e ve ry door a n d
court, padd lin g in every p u d d le ; and in abou t a fair proportion to
e very six children an old w om an — a v e ry o ld, blear-eyed, ragged
w om an— who m akes b elie ve to sell som ething out o f a bask et, and is
p erpetually callin g upon the nam e o f the I-ord. F o r every tliree
ragged old w om en you w ill see tw o ragged o ld m en, praying and
m oaning like the fem ales. A n d there is no la ck o f y o u n g m en, either,
though I never could m ake out w hat th ey w ere a b o u t: th ey loll about
the street, chiefly con versing in k n o t s ; and in ever}' street yo u will be
pretty sure to see a recruiting-seigeant, w ith g a y ribbon s in his cap,
loitering about w ith an eye upon the other loiterers there. T h e buzz
and hum and chattering o f this crow d is quite in co n ceiva b le to us in
E ngland, where a crow d is generally silent. A s a person w ith a decent
co at passes, th ey stop in their talk and say, “ G o d bless you for a
fine g e n tle m a n !” In these crow ded streets, w here a ll a rcf beggars,
the beggary is but s m a ll: only the very old and hideous venture to
a sk for a penny, otherw ise the com petition w ould b e too g r e a t
A s for the buildings that one lights upon every n ow an d then in
the m idst o f such scenes as this, they are scarce wrorth th e trouble to
e x a m in e : occasion ally you com e on a chap el with sham G o th ic windows
and a little belfi^*, one o f the C a th o lic p laces o f worship ; then, placed
in som e quiet street, a neat-looking D issen ting m eeting-house. Across
the river yonder, as you issue out from the street w here th e preceding
sketch w'as taken, is a handsom e h o s p ita l; near it the o ld cathedral,
a barbarous old turreted edifice— o f the fourteenth cen tu ry it is s a id :
ho w different to the sum ptuous elegan ce w hich characterizes the
E nglish and continental churches o f the sam e p e r io d ! P assin g b y it,
an d w'alking dow n other streets,— black, ruinous, sw arm ing, d ^ k ,
hideous,— you com e upon the barracks and the w alks o f the old
castle, and from it on to an old bridge, from w hich the vie w is a fine
one. O n one side are the gray bastions o f the c a s t le ; b e y o n d them ,
in the m idst o f the broad stream , stands a huge m ill that lo o k s like
another c a s tle ; further y et is the handsom e n ew W e lle s le y B rid ge,
w ith som e little craft upon the river, and the red w arehou ses o f the
N e w T o w n lo o kin g prosperous enough. T h e Irish T o w n stretches
aw ay to the r ig h t ; there are pretty villas b e yo n d i t ; an d o n the
bridge are w alkin g twenty-four yo u n g girls, in parties o f four an d five^
w ith their arms round each other’s waists, swajdng to an d fro, and
sin gin g or chattering, as hap py as i f th ey h ad shoes to th eir f e e t
LIMERICK.
141
Yonder you see a dozen pair o f red legs glittering in the w ater, their
owners being em ployed in w ashing their own or other p eop le’s rags.
Ih e G uide-bo ok m entions that one o f the aboriginal forests o f the
countiy is to b e seen at a few m iles from L im erick, and thin kin g that
an aboriginal forest w ould b e a huge discovery, and form an instruc
tive and delightful feature o f the present w ork, I hired a car in order
to visit the sam e, and p leased m y self w ith visions o f gigan tic oaks,
Druids, N orm a, w ildernesses and awful gloom , w hich wôuld fill the
soul with horror. T h e rom ance o f the p lace w as heightened b y a
hct stated b y the carm an, viz. that until late years robberies v;ere
very frequent abou t the wôod ; the inhabitants o f the district bein g a
wild, lawless race. M oreover, there are num erous castles round about,
^ n d for w hat can a man wish m ore than robbers, castles, and an
aboriginal w oo d ?
The w a y to these w onderful sights lies through the undulating
grounds w hich border the S h a n n o n ; and though the view is b y no
means a fine one, I kn ow few that are pleasanter than the sight o f
these rich, go ld en , peaceful plains, with the full harvest w aving on
them and ju st ready for the sickle. T h e h ay harvest was likew ise
just being con cluded, and the air loaded w ith the rich odour o f the
hay. A b o v e the trees, to your left, you saw the m ast o f a ship, per
haps m oving along, and every now and then caught a glim pse o f the
Shannon, and the low grounds and plantations o f the opposite coun ty
of Limerick. N o t an unpleasant addition to the landscape, too, w as
a sight w hich I do n ot rem em ber to have w itnessed often in this
country— that o f several sm all and d ecen t farm-houses, with their
stacks and sheds and stables, givin g an air o f neatness and p len ty
that the p o or cabin w ith its potato-patch does not present. Is it on
account o f the sm all farms that the land seem s richer and better
cultivated here than in m ost other parts o f the country ? Som e o f
the houses in the m idst o f the warm sum m er landscape had a strange
appearance, for it is often the fashion to whitew ash the roofs o f the
houses, lea v in g the slates o f the w alls o f their natural c o lo u r : hence,
and in th e evenin g especially, contrasting with the purple sky, the
house-tops often lo o ked as if they w ere covered with snow'.
A c c o rd in g to the G uide-book’s prom ise, the castles began soon to
ip p e ar: a t one p oint wê could see three o f these ancient m ansions
Q a line, each seem ingly w ith its little gro ve o f old trees, in tlie m idst
>f the b a re b u t fertile country.
B y this time, too, w e had g o t into a
TH E IRISH SK E TC H BOOK.
142
road so abom inably bad and ro ck y, that 1 began to b e lie ve m ore and
m ore with regard to the splendour o f the aborigin al forest, w h ich
m ust be m ost aboriginal and ferocious in deed w hen ap p ro ach ed b y
such a savage path. A fte r travelling through a co u p le o f lines o f w all
with plantations on either side, I at length becam e im patient as to the
forest, and, m uch to m y disappointm ent, was to ld this w as i t
For
the fact is, that though the forest has alw ays been there, th e trees
h ave not, the proprietors cutting them regularly w hen grow n to n o
great height, and the m onarchs o f the w oods w hich I saw rou n d
abou t w'ould scarcely have afforded tim ber for a b e d -p o st N o r d id
any robbers m ake their appearance in this w ild e rn e s s : w ith w h ich
disappointm ent, how ever, I w as m ore w illing to put up than w ith th e
form er one.
But if the w'ood and the robbers did not com e up to m y ro m an tic
notions, the old C astle o f Bunratty fully answ ered them , an d in d eed
should be m ade the scene o f a rom ance, in three volum es at le a s t
“ I t is a huge, square tower, with four sm aller ones at each a n g le ;
and you m ount to the entrance b y a steep flight o f steps, b e in g com
m anded all the w ay b y the cross-bow's o f two o f the L o rd D e C la re ’s
retainers, the points o f w hose w eapons m ay be seen lyin g up on the
led ge o f the little narrow meurtriere on each side o f the gate. A
ven erable seneschal, with the k eys o f office, presen tly opens th e little
b a ck postern, and you are adm itted to the great h all— a noble
cham ber, p a rd i! som e seventy feet in length and thirty high. T i s
hung round with a thousand trophies o f w ar and chase,— the go ld en
helm et and spear o f the Irish king, the long yello w m antle h e wore,
and the huge brooch that boun d i t
H u g o D e C lare slew him before
the castle in 1305, when he and his kernes attacked i t
L e ss success
ful in 13 14 , the gallan t H u go saw his village o f B un ratty burned
round his tow er b y the son o f the slaughtered O ’N e i l ; and, sallyin g
out to avenge the insult, was brought b a ck — a corpse
A h ! what
was the pang that shot through the fair bosom 6 f the Lady Adda
w hen she kn ew that ’twas the hand o f Redmond (PNeil sp ed the
shaft w hich slew her sire !
1
“ Y o u listen to this sad story, rep osin g on an o ak en
settle
(covered w ith deeris-skin taken in the aborigin al forest o f C a rclo w
hard b y) p laced at the enorm ous hall-fire.
H e re sits T h o n o m an
D iaoul, ‘ D a rk T h o m a s,’ the blind harper o f the race o f D e C lare,
w ho loves to tell the deeds o f the lo rd ly fam ily.
'‘ P en etratin g in
THE B U N R A TT Y ROMANCE.
143
disguise/ h e continues, ‘ into the castle, R ed m o n d o f the golden
lo ck s sough t an interview w ith the L ily o f B u n ra tty ; but she scream ed
w hen she saw him under the disguise o f the gleem an, and said, “ M y
father’s b lo o d is in the h a l l ! ” A t this, up started fierce Sir R anulph.
“ H o , B lu d y e r ! ” he cried to his squire, “ call m e the hangm an and
F ath er J o h n ; seize me, vassals, yon villain in gleem an ’s guise, and
hang him on the gallow s on the tow er ! ’”
“ ‘ W ill it p lease y e w alk to the ro o f o f the old castle and see the
beam on w hich the lords o f the p lace execute the refractory ? ’ ‘ N ay,
marry,* say you, ‘ b y m y spurs o f knighthood, I have seen hanging
enough in m erry E n gland, and care n ot to see the gibbets o f Irish
kernes.’
T h e harper w ould have taken fire at this speech reflecting
on his c o u n tr y ; but lu ck ily here G ulph, your E n glish squire entered
from the p an tler (with whom he had been holdin g a parley), and
brought a m anchet o f bread, and bade ye, in the L o rd de C la re’s
name, crush a cup o f Y p o cra s, w ell spiced, pardiy and b y the fair
hands o f the L a d y A dela.
“ ‘ T h e L a d y A d e la ! ’ say you, starting up in am aze. ‘ Is not
this the y ea r o f grace 1600, and lived she not three hundred years
spe ? ’
“ ‘ Y es, Sir K n ig h t, but Bunratty tow er hath another L ily : w ill it
please you see your ch a m b e r? ’
“ So saying, the seneschal leads you up a w inding stair in one
of the turrets, past one little dark cham ber and another, without a
fireplace, w ithout rushes (how different from the stately houses o f
Nonsuch o r A u d le y E n d !), and, leadin g you through another vast
chamber a b ove the baronial hall, sim ilar in size, but decorated with
tapestries and rude carvings, you pass the little chapel (‘ M arry,’ says
the steward, ‘ m any would it n ot hold, and m any do not c o m e ! ’)
until at last yo u are lo cated in the little cell appropriated to you.
Some rude attem pts have been m ade to render it fitting for the
stranger; but, though m ore neatly arranged than the hundred other
little cham bers w hich the castle contains, in sooth ’tis scarce fitted for
the serving-man, m uch m ore for Sir R egin ald, the English knight.
“ W h ile you are lookin g at a bouquet o f flowers, w hich lies on the
settle— m agnolias, geranium s, the blue flowers o f the cactus, and in
the m idst o f the bouquet, one lily; whilst you w on der w hose fair
hands co u ld have culled the flowers— h a r k ! the horns are blow in g at
the draw bridge an d the w arder lets the portcullis dow n. Y o u rush
144
th e
IRISH SK E TCH BOOK.
to yo u r w indow , a stalwart kn ight rides o ver the gate, th e hoofs of his
b la ck courser clanging upon the planks.
A host o f w ild retainers
w ait round abou t h im : see, four o f them carry a stag, that hath been
slain no doubt in the aboriginal forest o f C arclow .
say you, ‘ ’tis a stag o f ten .’
‘ B y m y fay!’
“ B ut w ho is that yonder on the gray palfrey, conversing so
prettily, and holdin g the sportive anim al w ith so ligh t a rein?—
a liglit green riding-habit and ruff, a little hat w ith a green p lu m e sure it must b e a lady, and a fair one. She lo o ks up. O blessed
M o th er o f H eaven , that lo o k ! those eyes that sm ile, those
sunny golden ringlets I I t is — it is the L a d y A d e l a : the L ily o f
Bunrat ♦ * * ”
I f the reader cannot finish the other tw o volum es for him or her
self, he or she n ever deserves to have a n ovel from a circulating
library again : for m y part, I w ill take m y affidavit the E n glish knight
w ill marry the L ily at the end o f the third volum e, h avin g previously
slain the other suitor at one o f the m ultifarious sieges o f Lim erick.
A n d I b eg to say that the historical part o f this rom an ce has been
extracted carefully from the G uide-book : the topograph ical and
descriptive portion bein g studied on the spot.
A policem an shows
you o ver it, halls, chapels, galleries, gibbets and all.
T h e huge old
tow er was, until late years, inhabited b y the fam ily o f the proprietor,
who built h im self a house in the m idst o f i t : but h e has since built
another in the p ark opposite, and half-a-dozen “ P eelers,” with a.
com m odity o f w ives and children, now inhabit Bunratty.
O n the
gate w here w e entered w ere num erous placards offering rew ards fo r
the apprehension o f various country o ffen d ers; and a turnpike,
a bridge, and a quay have sprung up from the p lace w hich R e d
R ed m o n d (or anybody else) burned.
O n our road to G alw ay
b y the old tower, and for
banks o f the F ergus lake,
Shannon.
T h e first tow n
the n ext day, w e w ere carried o n ce more
a considerable distance alo n g th e fertile
and a river w hich pours its e lf in to the
w e com e to is C a stle C lare, w h ich lies '
con ven ien tly on the river, with a castle, a g o o d brid ge, a n d many
quays and w arehouses, near w hich a small ship o r tw o w ere Ijring.
T h e p lace w as o n ce the c h ie f tow n o f the coun ty, b u t is w r e ^ e d
ENNIS.
145
and ruinous now , b ein g m ade up for the m ost part o f m iserable
thatched cots, round w hich you see the usual dusky population. T h e
drive hence to E n nis lies through a coun try w hich is b y no m eans so
pleasant as that rich one w e have passed through, b ein g succeeded
“ by that craggy, b lea k , pastoral district w hich occupies so large
a portion o f the lim estone district o f C la re .”
E nnis, likew ise, stands
npon the F ergus— â b u sy little narrow-streeted, foreign-looking town,
approached b y half-a-mile o f thatched cots, in w hich I am not
ashamed to confess that I saw som e as pretty faces as o ver any halfmile of coun try I ever travelled in m y life.
A great ligh t o f the C ath o lic Church, w ho w as o f late a candle
stick in our ow n com m union, was on the co ach w ith us, reading
devoutly out o f a breviary on m any occasions alon g the road.
A crowd o f b la c k coats and heads, w ith that indescribable lo o k
^ c h belon gs to the C a th o lic clergy, were evid en tly on the look-out
for the co a ch ; and as it stopped, one o f them cam e up to me w ith a low
bow, and a sk ed i f I w as the H on ourable and R everen d M r. S
?
How I w ish I had answ ered him I w a s !
I t w ould have been a
grand scene. T h e respect paid to tliis gentlem an’s descen t is quite
absurd: the papers ban dy his title abou t w ith pleased em phasis— the
Galway p ap er calls him the very reverend. T h e re is som ething in
tile love for ran k alm ost c h ild is h : witness the adoration o f G eo rge
IV.; the pom pous jo y w ith w hich John T u a m records his corre
spondence w ith a great m a n ; the continual M y-L ord in g o f the
Bishops, the R ight-H on ou rabling o f Mr. O ’C o n n e ll— w hich title his
party papers delight on all occasions to give him — nay, the delight o f
that great m an him self w hen first he attained the d ig n ity : he figured
in his robes in the m ost good-hum oured sim ple delight at having
them, and w en t to church forthw ith in th e m ; as if such a m an w anted
a title before his nam e.
A t E nnis, as w ell as every\vhere else in Ireland, there w ere o f
course the regular num ber o f sw aggering-looking buckeens and
shabby-genteel idlers to w atch the arrival o f the m ail-coach. A poor
old idiot, w ith his gray hair tied up in bows, and w ith a ribbon
behind, thrust out a very fair soft hand w ith taper fingers, and told
me, n od ding his head very wistfully, that he had no father nor
m other: upon w hich score he go t a penny.
N o r did the other
beggars rou nd the carriage w ho g o t none seem to grudge the p o or
fellow’s go o d fortune. I thin k w hen one p o or w retch has a p iece o f
10
146
lu ck , the others seem glad here : and th ey prom ise to p ray fo r you
ju st the sam e if you giv e as if you refuse.
T h e towTi w as swarm ing with p eo p le ; th e little d a rk streets
w hich twist about in all directions, bein g full o f cheap m erchandise
and its vendors. W h ether there are m any buyers, I can ’t say. T his
is written opposite the m arket-place in G alw ay, w here I h ave w atched
a stall a hundred tim es in the course o f the last three hours a n d seen
n o m on ey ta k e n : but at every p lace I com e to, I can’t h elp w onder
in g at the n u m b e rs; it seem s m arket-day every\vhere— app les, pigs,
and p otatoes b ein g sold all o ver the kingdom .
T h e re seem to be
som e g o o d shops in those narrow s tre e ts; am ong others, a decent
little library, where I bought, for eighteenpence, six volum es o f works
strictly Irish, that w ill serve for a half-hour’s gossip on th e next
rainy day.
T h e road hence to G o rt carried us at first b y som e dism al, lonelylookin g, reed y lakes, through a m elan choly c o u n try ; an op en village
standing here and there, w ith a b ig chapel in the m idst o f it, alm ost
alw ays unfinished in som e point or other. C rossing at a brid ge near
a p lace called T u b b o r, the coachm an told us w e w ere in the famous
coun ty o f G alw ay, w hich all readers o f novels adm ire in th e warlike
w orks o f M axw ell and L e v e r ; and, dism al as the coun try h ad been
in Clare, I think on the northern side o f the bridge it w as dism aller
still— the stones not o n ly appearing in the character o f hedges, but
strewing over w hole fields, in w hich sheep w ere brow sing a s w ell as
they could.
W e rode for m iles through this stony, dism al district, seem g m ore
lakes now and anon, w ith fellow s spearing eels in the m id s t T h e n
w e passed the plantations o f L o rd G ort’s C a stle o f L ou gh co o ter, a n d
presently cam e to the town w hich bears his nam e, o r vUe versA. I t is
a regularly-built little place, w ith a square and street: but it lo o k ed a s
i f it w ondered how the deuce it go t into the m idst o f such a d eso late
country, and seem ed to
to do, and no society.
hore itself there considerably. I t had n oth in g
A short time before arriving at O ranm ore, one has glim pses o f the
sea, w hich com es opportunely to relieve the dulness o f the land.
B etw een G ort and that p lace w e passed through little b u t the most
w oful country, in the m idst o f w hich was a village, w here a horse-fair
w as held, and w here (upon the w ord o f the coachm an) a ll the bad
horses o f the coun try were to b e seen. T h e m an w as com m issioned,
E N N IS TO GORT
147
no d o u b t, to b u y for his em ployers, for two or three m erchants were
on th e look-out for him , and trotted out their cattle b y the side o f the
coach. A ve ry go o d , neat-looking, sm art-trotting chestnut horse, o f
seven y ea rs o ld, w as offered b y the ow ner for 8/.; a neat brow n mare
for 10/., and a b etter (as I presum e) for 14 /.; b ut all looked very
respectable, and I h ave the coachm an ’s w ord for it that they w ere
good serviceable horses. Oranm ore, w ith an old castle in the m idst
of the village, w oods, and park-plantations round about, and the b ay
beyond it, has a pretty and rom antic l o o k ; and the drive, o f about
four m iles thence to G alw ay, is the m ost picturesque part perhaps o f
the fifty m iles’ ride from L im erick. T h e road is tolerably w ooded.
You see the tow n itself, w ith its huge old church-tower,
along the b a y, “ backed b y hills linking into the lon g
mountains w hich stretch across Con nem ara and the J o y ce
A suburb o f cots that seem s alm ost endless has, how ever,
stretching
chain o f
country.”
an end at
last among the houses o f the to w n ; and a little fleet o f a couple
of hundred fishing-boats was manoeuvring in the bright waters o f the
148
CH APTER
XV.
GALWAV— “ KILROY’ s HOTEL’’ — GALWAY NIGHTS’ ENTERTAINMENTS—
FIRST
n ig h t :
AN EVENING WITH CAPTAIN FREENY.
W h e n it is stated that, throughout the tow n o f G alw ay, you can n ot
get a cigar w hich costs m ore than tw opence, L on d o n ers m ay im agine
the strangeness and rem oteness o f the place.
T h e rain p oured dow n
for two days after our arrival at “ K ilro y ’s H o te l.” A n um brella under
such circum stances is a poor resource : self-contem plation is far m ore
a m u sin g ; especially sm oking, and a gam e at cards, i f an y o n e w ill be
so go o d as to play.
But there was no one in the hotel coffee-room w ho w as inclined
for the sport. T h e com pan y there, on the day o f our arrival, co n
sisted o f two coach-passengers,— a F renchm an w ho cam e from Sligo,
and ordered m utton-chops and fraidpotatoes for dinner b y him self, a
turbot w hich cost two shillings, and in B illingsgate w ou ld h ave been
worth a guinea, and a couple o f native or inhabitant bachelors, who
frequented the table-dhdtc.
B y the way, besides these there w ere at dinner two turkeys (so
that M r. K ilro y ’s two-shilling ordinary was b y no m eans ill s u p p lie d );
and, as a stranger, I had the honour o f carving these anim als, w hich
w ere dispensed in rather a singular w ay. T h e re are, as it is gen erally
known, to two turkeys four wings. O f the four passengers, o n e ate
no turkey, one had a pinion, another the rem aining part o f th e w ing,
and the fourth gentlem an took the other three w ings for h is share.
D o e s everybody in G alw ay eat three w ings w hen there are tw o turkeys
for dinner ? O n e has heard w onders o f the country,— the dashing,
daring, duelling, desperate, rollicking, w hisky-drinking p e o p le : but
this w onder beats all.
W h en I asked the G alw ay turkiphagus (there
is no other word, for T u rk e y was in vented lon g after G reece)
“ if he w ould take a third w in g ? ” w ith a p ecu liar satiric a cce n t on
the w ords third loitig, w hich cannot b e expressed in w riting, b u t w hich
the occasion fully m erited, I thought perhaps that, follo w in g the
custom o f the country, w here everybody, a cco rd in g to M a x w e ll and
G ALW AY.
149
L e v e r, challen ges everyb o d y else,— I thought the G alw agian w ould
ca ll m e o u t ; but n o such thing. H e o n ly said, “ I f you plase, sir,”
in the blan d est w ay in the w o r ld ; and go bbled up the lim b in a
tw inkling.
A s an encouragem ent, too, for persons m editating that im portant
chan ge o f con dition , the gentlem an was a teetotaller; he took but one
glass o f w ater to that in tolerable deal o f b u b b lyjo ck. G alw ay must
be v e ry m uch chan ged since the days w hen M axw ell and L e v e r kn ew
it. T h r e e turkey-w ings and a glass o f w ater ! B ut the m an cannot
be the representative o f a class, that is cle a r: it is p hysically and
arithm etically im possible.
T h e y ca n ’t all eat three w ings o f tw o
turkeys a t d in n e r ; the turkeys could not stand it, let alone the men.
These w ings m ust have been “ non usitatae (nec tenues) pennae.”
But no m ore o f these flig h ts ; let us com e to sober realities.
T h e fact is, that w hen the rain is pouring down in the streets the
traveller has little else to rem ark excep t these peculiarities o f his
fellow-travellers and inn-sojoum ers ; and, lest one should be led
into further personalities, it is best to quit that w'ater-drinking gorm an
dizer at once, and retiring to a private apartm ent, to d evo te o n e’s self
to quiet observation and the acquisition o f k n ow ledge, either b y lo o k
ing out o f the w indow and exam ining m ankind, or b y perusing books,
and so livin g w ith past heroes and ages.
As for the kn ow ledge to b e had b y lo o kin g out o f w indow, it is
this evening n ot m uch. A great, w ide, blank, bleak, water-whipped
square lies before the bed-room w indow ; at the opposite side o f w hich
is to be seen the opposition hotel, lookin g even m ore b lea k and
cheerless than that o ver w hich M r. K ilro y presides. L arge dism al ware
houses and private houses form three sides o f the sq u a re ; and in the
midst is a bare pleasure-ground surrounded b y a growth o f gaunt ironnulings, the o n ly plants seem ingly in the place. T h ree triangular
edifices that lo o k som ew hat like gibbets stand in the p aved part o f the
square, but the victim s that are consigned to their fate under these
triangles are o n ly potatoes, w hich are w eighed there ; and, in spite o f
the torrents o f rain, a crow d o f barefooted, red-petticoated w om en, and
men in g re y c o a ts and flower-pot hats, are pursuing their little bargains
w ith th e utm ost calm ness. T h e rain seem s to m ake no im pression
on the m a le s ; n or d o the w om en guard against it m ore than b y
flinging a p ettico at o ver their heads, and so stand bargaining and
chatterin g in Irish, their figures indefinitely reflected in the shining,.
ISO
varnished pavem ent.
D o n k ey s and pony-carts innum erable stan d
around, sim ilarly re flecte d ; and in the baskets upon these v eh icles
you see shoals o f herrings lying. A fte r a short sp ace this p ro sp ect
becom es som ewhat tedious, and one lo o ks to o th er sources o f
consolation.
T h e eighteenpennyw orth o f little b o o ks purchased a t E n n is in
the m orning cam e here m ost a greeab ly to m y aid ; an d in d eed th ey
afford m any a pleasant hour’s reading.
L ik e the “ B ib lio t h ^ u e
G rise,” w hich one sees in the F rench cottages in the provin ces, an d the
G en n an “ \'olk sb iich er,” both o f w hich contain stores o f o ld legends
that are still treasured in the country, these yellow -covered b o o k s are
prepared for the p eop le c h ie fly ; and h ave been sold for m a n y long
years before the m arch o f kn ow ledge began to banish F a n c y o u t o f
the w orld, and ga ve us, in p lace o f the old fa iiy tales. Penny
M agazines and sim ilar w holesom e w'orks.
W here are th e little
harlequin-backed stor>'-books that used to b e read b y children in
E n gland som e thirty years ago ? W h ere such authentic narratives as
“ C aptain Bruce’s U'ravels,” “ T h e D readful A d ven tu res o f Sawmey
B ean ,” & c., w'hich w'ere com m only supplied to little b o y s a t school
b y the sam e old lad y w'ho sold oranges and alycom p ayn e ?— th ey are
all gon e out o f the w'orkl, and rep laced b y such b o o k s a s “ C on
versations on C h em istry,” “ T h e L ittle G eo lo gist,” “ P e te r P arley’s
T a le s about the Binom ial T h eo rem ,” and the like. T h e w orld will
b e a dull w orld som e hundreds o f years hence, w hen F a n c y shall be
dead, and nithless S cien ce (that has no m ore bow'els than a steamengine) has killed her.
It is a com fort, m eanwhile, to com e on occasion s on som e o f the
good old stories and biographies. T h e se b o o ks w ere e vid e n tly
w ritten before the useful had attained its present detestable p o pu larity.
T h e re is nothing useful hcrCy that’s c e r t a in ; and a m an w ill b e
p u zzled to extract a precise m oral out o f the “ A d ven tu res o f M r. Jam es
F r e e n y ; ” or out o f the legen ds in the “ H ibern ian T a le s ; ” o r o u t o f
the lam entable tragedy o f the “ B attle o f A ugh rim ,” w rit in m ost d o lefu l
A n glo-Irish verse. B ut are w e to reject a ll things that h a v e n o t a
m oral tack ed to them ? “ Is there an y m oral shut w ithin th e b o so m
o f the r o s e ? ”
A n d yet, as the sam e n oble p oet sings (g ivifig a
smart slap to the utility p eo p le the w hile), “ useful a p p licatio n s lie in
art and nature,” and every m an m a y find a m oral suited to h is m ind
in t h e m ; or, if not a moral, an occasion for m oralizing.
CAPTA IN FREENY.
151
H o n e st F r e e n / s adventures (let us begin with history and historic
tragedy, and leave fan cy for future con sideration), if they h ave a
moral, h ave that dubious one w hich the p oet adm its m ay b e elicited
from a ro s e ; and w hich every m an m ay select acco rd in g to his
mind. A n d surely this is a far b e tte r and m ore com fortable system
of m oralising than that in the fable-books, w here yo u are o bliged
to a ccep t th e story w ith the in evitable m oral corollary that w ill stick
do se to i t
W h ereas, in Freeny*s life, one m an m ay see the evil o f drinking,
another the harm o f horse-racing, another the danger attendan t on
early m arriage, a fourth the exceed in g in conven ien ce as w ell as
hazard o f the heroic highw aym an’s life— w hich a certain A insw orth,
in co m p an y w ith a certain Cruikshan k, has represented as so p o etic
and brilliant, so prodigal o f delightful adventure, so adorn ed with
cham pagne, gold-lace, and brocade.
A n d the b est part o f w orthy F reen y’s tale is the n oble n aivete
and sim p licity o f the hero as he recounts his own adventures, and
the utter unconsciousness that he is narrating anythin g wonderful.
I t is the w ay o f all great m en, w ho recite their great actions
m o d e stly , and as if they were m atters o f c o u r s e ; as indeed to them
th e y are.
A com m on tyro, havin g perpetrated a great deed, would
b e am azed and flurried at his own a c tio n ; whereas I m ake no doubt
th e D u k e o f W ellington, after a great victo ry, to o k his tea and w ent
t o b e d ju st as quietly as he w ould after a dull debate in the H o u se o f
L o rd s. A n d so w ith F reen y,— ^his great and charm ing characteristic
is grav e s im p lic ity : he does his w ork ; he know s his danger as w ell
a s a n o th e r; but he go es through his fearful d uty quite quietly and
e a sily , and n ot w ith the least air o f bravado, or the sm allest notion
th a t he is doin g anythin g uncom m on.
It is related o f Carter, the L io n -K in g, that w hen he was a b o y ,
a n d e x ceed in gly fond o f gingerbread-nuts, a relation ga ve him a
p a r c e l o f those deliciou s cakes, w hich the child put in his p o cket
ju s t as h e was called on to g o into a cage w ith a very large and
ro a rin g lion. H e had to put his head into the forest-m onarch’s jaw s,
a n d lea v e it there for a considerable tim e, to the delight o f thousands :
a s is e ve n n ow the c a s e ; and the interest was so m uch the greater,
a s th e ch ild was exceed in gly innocent, rosy-cheeked, and pretty. T o
h a v e seen that little flaxen head bitten o ff b y the lion w ould have
b e e n a far m ore p athetic sp ectacle than that o f the decapitation o f
152
som e grey-bearded old unrom antic keeper, w ho h ad served o u t raw
m eat and stirred up tlie anim als w ith a p o le a n y lim e these tw e n ty
y e a r s : and the interest rose in consequence.
W h ile the little darling’s head was thus enjaw ed, w hat w as th e
astonishm ent o f everyb o d y to see him put his han d in to h is little
p o cket, take out a p aper— from the p aper a gingerbread-nut— ^pop
that gingerbread-nut into the lion ’s m outh, then in to his ow n, an d so
finish at least two-pennyworth o f nuts !
T h e excitem en t was d e lirio u s : the ladies, w hen he cam e o u t o f
chancery, were for doin g w hat the lion had n ot done, and e atin g him
up — with kisses. A n d the o n ly rem ark th e yo u n g hero m ade w as,
“ U n cle, them nuts vvasn’t so crisp as them I had t’other d a y .” H e
n ever thought o f the danger,— he o n ly thought o f the nuts.
Thus it is with F reeny . It is fine to mark his bravery, an d to
see how he cracks his simple philosophic nuts in th e jaws o f
innumerable lions.
A t the com m encem ent o f th e last century, hon est Freeny*s father
w as house-steward in the fam ily o f Joseph R o b b in s, E sq ., o f Ballyd u f f ; and, m anydng A lic e P h elan, a m aid-servant in the sam e fam ily,
had issue J ames, the celebrated Irish hero.
A t a p roper a ge Jam es
w as put to s c h o o l; b ut b ein g a nim ble, a ctiv e lad, and his fethePs
m istress taking a fan cy to him , he w as p resen tly brought to B allyduff,
w here she had a private tutor to instruct him during th e tim e w hich
he could spare from his professional duty, w hich w as that o f pantryb o y in M r. R o bbin s’s establish m en t
A t an early age h e b ^ a n to
n eglect his d u ty ; and although his father, at the e x ce llen t M rs.
R o b b in s’s suggestion, corrected him very severely, the b e n t o f his
genius was n ot to be w arped b y the rod, and h e attended “ all the
little co u n tiy dances, diversions and m eetings, and b ecam e w h at is
called a go o d d a n c e r ; his own natural inclinations hurrying him ” (as
he finely says) “ into the contrary diversions.”
H e was scarce tw enty years o ld w hen h e m arried (a frightful
p ro o f o f the w icked recklessness o f his form er courses), an d set up
in trade in W a te rfo rd ; where, how ever, m atters w en t so ill w ith him,
that he was sp eedily w ithout m oney, and 50/. in d e b t
H e h ad, he
says, not an y w ay o f payin g the debt, excep t b y sellin g his furniture
or his riding-mare, to both o f w hich m easures he w as a v e rs e : for
w here is the gentlem an in Irelan d that can d o w ithout a h orse to
ride ?
M r. F reen y and his riding-m are becam e soon fam ous, inso
A N IGH T W ITH FREENY.
153
m uch th a t a th ie f in ga o l w arned the m agistrates o f K ilk e n n y to
bew are o f a one-eyed man with a mare.
IT ie se un happy circum stances sent him on the highw ay to seek
a m aintenance, and his first exp loit was to rob a gentlem an o f fifty
pounds ; then he a tta ck ed another, against whom he “ had a secret dis
gust, b e ca u se this gen tlem an had prevented his form er m aster from
giving him a suit o f clothes ! ”
U r g e d b y a n oble resentm ent against this gentlem an, M r. F reen y,
in co m p an y w ith a friend b y the nam e o f R e d d y , ro bbed the gen tle
man’s house, taking therein 70/. in m oney, w hich was honourably
divided am o n g the captors.
“ W e th en ,” continues Mr. F reen y, “ quitted the house with the
booty, an d cam e to T h o m a sto w n ; but n ot kn ow in g how to dispose
of the p late, left it w ith R e d d y , w ho said he had a friend from w hom
he w ould g e t cash for it.
In som e tim e afterwards I asked him for
the dividen d o f the cash he g o t for the plate, but all the satisfaction
he gave m e w as, that it w as lost, w hich occasion ed m e to have my
mn opinion o f himI"
Mr. F re en y then robbed Sir W illiam F ow n es’ servant o f 14/.,
in such an artful m anner that everyb o d y b elieved tlie servant had
himself secreted the m o n e y ; and no d o ubt the rascal was turned
adrift, and starved in con sequence— a truly com ic incident, and one
that could b e used, so as to p ro vo k e a great deal o f laughter, in an
historical w ork o f w hich our cham pion should b e the hero.
T he n ex t enterprise o f im portance is that against the house
of C olon el Palliser, w hich F re en y thus picturesquely describes.
Coming w ith one o f his spies close up to the house, M r. F reen y
watched the C o lo n el ligh ted to bed b y a s e r v a n t; and thus, as he
cleverly says, could ju d g e “ o f the room tbe C o lo n el la y in .”
“ Som e tim e afterw ards,” says F reen y, “ I observed a ligh t
upstairs, b y w hich I ju d g ed the servants w ere go in g to bed, and soon
after observed that the can dles w ere all quenched, b y w hich I assured
myself th ey w ere all go n e to bed. I then cam e b a ck to w here the
men w ere, and appointed Bulger, M otley, and Com m on s to g o in
along w ith m e ; b u t Com m on s answ ered that h e n ever had been in
any house before w here there were a r m s : upon w hich I asked the
cow ard w hat business he had there, and swore I w ou ld as soon shoot
him as lo o k at him , an d a t the sam e tim e co ck e d a pistol to his
b re a st; b u t the rest o f th e m en p revailed upon m e to leave him a t
154
th e
the b a ck o f the house, where he m ight run aw ay w hen h e th o u gh t
proper.
“ I then asked G race w here did h e choose to b e p o s t e d : h e
answ ered ‘ that he w ould go where I pleased to o rder him ,’ for
w hich I thanked him. W e then im m ediately cam e up to the house,
lighted our candles, j)ut H oulahan at the b a ck o f the house to pre
ven t any person from com ing out that w ay, and p laced H a c k e t o n my
mare, well arm ed, at the f r o n t ; and I then b ro k e one o f the window s
with a sledge, w hereupon Bulger, M o tley, G race, and I g o t in ; upon
w hich I ordered M o tley and G race to g o upstairs, and B u lg er and I
w ould stay below , where w e thought the greatest dan ger w ou ld b e ;
but I im m ediately, upon second consideration, for fear M o tle y or
G race should be daunted, desired B u lg er to go up with them , and
w hen he had fixed m atters above, to com e dow n, as I ju d g e d the
C o lo n el lay below . I then w ent to the room w here the C o lo n e l was,
and burst open the d o o r ; upon w hich he said, ‘ O dds-w ounds ! who’s
there?* to w hich I answ ered, ‘ A friend, s i r ; ’ upon w hich h e said,
‘ Y o u lie ! b y G - d , you are no friend- o f m ine ! ’ I then said that I
vvas, and his relation also, and that if he view ed m e close h e w ould
know me, and b egged o f liim n ot to b e a n g ry : upon w h ich I
im m ediately seized a bullet-gun and case o f pistols, w hich I observed
hanging up in his room. I then quitted his room , and w alk e d round
the low er part o f the house, thin kin g to m eet som e o f the servants,
whom I thought w ould strive to m ake their escape from the m en w ho
were above, and m eeting none o f them , I im m ediately return ed to
the C o lo n el’s r o o m ; w here I no sooner entered than he d esired m e
to g o out for a villain, and asked w hy I bred such disturban ce in his
house at that time o f night. A t the sam e tim e I snatched his b reech es
from under his head, wheaein I go t a sm all purse o f go ld , an d said
that abuse was not fit treatm ent for m e w ho w as his relation, an d that
it w ou ld hinder m e o f callin g to see him again. I then d em an ded
the k ey o f his desk w liich stood in his ro o m ; h e an sw ered he
had no k e y ; upon w hich I said I had a very go o d k e y ; a t the
sam e tim e givin g it a stroke w ith the sledge, w liich burst it open ,
w herein I go t a purse o f n inety guineas, a four-pound p ie ce , tw o
m oidores, som e sm all gold, and a large g lo v e w ith tw enty-eight
guineas in silver.
“ B y this tim e B ulger and M o tley cam e dow nstairs to m e, after
rifling the house above.
W e then observed a c lo set in side his room ,
TRUE PRESENCE OF MIND.
155
w hich w e so o n entered, and g o t therein a b a sk et w herein there w as
plate to th e value o f three hundred pounds.”
A n d so they to o k leave o f C o lo n e l Palliser, and ro de aw ay w ith
their earnings.
T h e story, as here narrated, has that sim plicity w hich is beyon d
the rea ch o f all exce p t the very highest a r t ; and it is not high art
certain ly w h ich M r. F reen y can b e said to possess, but a n oble
nature rather, w hich leads him thus gran dly to d escribe scenes
w herein he a cted a great p a r t W ith w hat a gallan t determ ination
d o es he inform the cow ard C om m ons that he w ould shoot him “ as
soon as look at him
and how dreadful he m ust have lo o k ed (with
his o n e eye) as he uttered that s e n tim e n t! B u t h e left him, he says
w ith a grim hum our, at the b a ck o f the house, “ where he m ight run
a w a y w hen he thought proper.”
T h e D u k e o f W ellington m ust
h a v e read M r. F re en y ’s history in his youth (his G ra ce ’s birthplace
is n o t far from the scene o f the other gallan t Irishm an’s exploit),
fo r th e D u k e acted in p recisely a sim ilar wây b y a B elgian C o lo n el
a t W a terlo o .
I t m ust b e painful to great and successful com m anders to think
h o w their gallan t com rades and lieutenants, partners o f their toil,
t h e ir feelings, and their fam e, are separated from them by tim e, by
d e a th , b y estrangem ent— nay, som etim es b y treason. Com m on s is
o ff, disap p earin g noiseless into the deep night, w hilst his com rades
perform the w ork o f d a n g e r; and B ulger,— B u l g e r , w ho in the
a b o v e scen e acts so gallan t a part, and in w^hom M r. F reen y p laces
so m uch con fiden ce— actu ally w ent aw ay to E ngland, carrying o ff
“ som e p late, som e shirts, a go ld wâtch, and a diam ond rin g ” o f the
C a p ta in ’s ; and, though he returned to his native country, the
va lu a b les did n ot return w ith him, on w hich the C ap tain swore he
w o u ld b lo w his brains o u t A s for p oor G race, he w as hanged,
m u ch to his leader’s sorrow, w ho says o f him that he was “ the
faith fullest o f his spies.” M o tley w as sent to N aas ga o l for the
v e ry r o b b e r y : and though C ap tain F re en y does not m ention his
u ltim ate fate, ’tis p robable he w as hanged too. In d eed , the warrior’s
life is a hard one, and o ver m isfortunes like these the feelin g heart
ca n n o t b u t sigh.
B ut, puttin g out o f the question the co n d u ct an d fate o f the
C a p ta in ’s associates, let us lo o k to his ow n behaviour as a leader.
I t is im possible n o t to adm ire his serenity, his dexterity, that dashing
IS6
THE IRISH S K E T C H B O O K
im petuosity in the m om ent o f actio n an d that aquilin e
coup-dlml
w hich b elo n g to but few generals. H e it is w ho leads the assault,
sm ashing in the w indow w ith a s le d g e ; he bursts o p en the C o lo n e l's
door, w ho says (naturally enough), “ O d d s-w o u n d s! w ho’s there?**
“ A friend, sir,” says F reen y.
“ Y o u l i e ! b y G - d , yo u a re n o
friend o f m ine ! ” roars the m ilitary blasphem er. “ I then said th a t I
wâs, and his relation also, and that if he view ed m e clo se he w ou ld
kn ow m e, and b egged o f him n ot to b e a n g r y : upon lahich I imme
diately seized a brace o f pistols w hich I o bserved han ging up in his
room .” 'That is som ething like presence o f m in d : n on e o f y o u r
brutal braggad ocio w ork, but neat, w ary— nay, sportive b earin g in th e
face o f danger. A n d again, on the second visit to the C o lo n e l's
room , when the latter bids him “ go out for a villain, an d n o t b re e d
a disturbance,” what rep ly m akes F re e n y ?
A t the same time I
snatched his breeches from under his h ead .” A com m on m an w o u ld
n ever have thought o f lo o kin g for them in such a p lace at all.
The
difficulty about the k e y he resolves in quite an A lex an d rian m a n n e r ;
and, from the specim en w e already have had o f the C o lo n el’s sty le o f
speaking, w e m ay fan cy how ferociously he la y in b e d an d sw o re,
after C ap tain F reen y and his friends had disappeared wuth the n in e ty
guineas, the m oidores, the four-pound piece, and the g lo v e w ith
tw enty-eight guineas in silver.
A s for the plate, he hid it in a w 'o o d ; an d then, b e in g o u t o f
danger, he sat dow n and paid everyb o d y his deserts. B y th e w ay,
w hat a strange difference o f opinion is there abou t a m an's deserts/
H e re sits C ap tain F re en y with a com pany o f gentlem en, and a w ard s
them a handsom e sum o f m on ey for an action w hich other p e o p le
w ou ld have rem unerated w ith a halter. W h ich are right ? p erh a p s
both : but at an y rate it w ill b e adm itted that the C ap tain ta k es th e
hum ane view' o f the question.
T h e greatest enem y C ap tain F re en y had w as C o u n sello r R o b b in s,
a son o f his old patron, and one o f the m ost determ ined thief-pursuers
the country ever knew*.
B u t tliough h e was untiring in his efforts to
capture (and o f course to hang) M r. F reen y, and though th e latter
w as strongly urged b y his friends to b lo w th e Coun sellor's brains o u t:
y et, to his im m ortal honour it is said, h e refused that ten^ptation,
agreeable as it was, declaring that he had eaten to o m uch o f that
fam ily’s bread ever to tak e the life o f one o f them , and b e in g besides
quite aw are that the C o u n sello r w as o n ly a ctin g against h im in a
A L A W Y E R IN AMBUSH.
157
p u b lic ca p a city .
H e respected him , in fact, like an honourable
though terrible adversary.
H o w d eep a stratagem -inventor the C o u n sello r was, m ay be
gathered from the follo w in g narration o f one o f his plans :—
“ C o u n sello r R o b b in s finding his brother had n ot go t intelligence
th at w as sufficient to carry an y reasonable foundation for appre
h en d in g us, w alked out as i f m erely for exercise, till he m et w ith a
person w hom he thought he could confide in, and desired the person
to m eet him at a private p lace appointed for that purpose, w hich they
d i d ; a n d he to ld that person he had a v e ry go o d opinion o f him,
from th e character received from his father o f him , and from his ow n
kn o w le d ge o f him , and hoped that the person w ould then show him
that such opinion w as not ill founded.
T h e person assuring the
C o u n sello r h e w ould d o all in his pow er to serve and oblige him , the
C o u n sello r told him how greatly he w as con cerned to hear the scan
dalous ch aracter that part o f the country (w hich had form erly been
an hon est one) had lately fallen i n t o ; that it was said that a gan g
o f ro bbers w h o disturbed the country lived thereabouts. T h e person
told h im he was afraid w hat he said w as too tru e ; and, on bein g
a sk ed w hom he suspected, he nam ed the sam e four persons
M r. R o b b in s had, but said he dare not, for fear o f bein g m urdered,
be to o inquisitive, and therefore could n ot say anythin g m aterial. T h e
C o u n sello r ask ed him if he kn ew w here there w as an y private ale to
b e s o ld ; and he said M o ll Burke, w ho lived near the end o f
M r. R o b b in s ’s avenue, had a barrel or h a lf a barrel.
T h e C oun sellor
then ga ve the person a m oidore, and desired him to go to T h o m a s
to w n and b u y tw o or three gallons o f w hisky, and bring it to M o ll
B u r k e ’s, and in vite as m any as he suspected to be either principals or
a c c e s s o rie s to take a drink, an d m ake them drink very heartily, and
w h e n he found th ey w ere fuddled, and n ot sooner, to tell som e o f the
h a s tie s t that som e other had said som e bad things o f them , so as to
p r o v o k e them to abuse and quarrel w ith each o th e r ; and then,
p r o b a b ly , in their liquor and passion, they m ight m ake som e dis
c o v e r ie s o f each other, as m ay enable the C oun sellor to get som e one
o f th e g a n g to d isco ver and accuse the rest.
“ T h e person acco rd in gly g o t the w hisky and invited a g o o d
m a n y to d r in k ; but the C oun sellor b ein g then at his brother’s, a few
o n ly w en t to M o ll B urke’s, the rest bein g afraid to venture w hile the
C o u n s e llo r w as in the n eighbourhood ; am ong those w ho m et there
158
w as one M o ll B rophy, the wife o f M r. R o b b in s’s sm ith, a n d o n e
Edm und or E dw ard Stapleton, otherw ise G au l, w ho liv e d there
abouts ; and w hen they had drank plentifully, the C o u n sello r’s spy
told M o ll B rop h y that G au l had said she had go n e astray w ith som e
persons or other : she then abused G au l, an d to ld him h e w as o n e o f
F reen y ’s accom plices, for that he, G au l, had told h er h e h a d seen
C o lo n el P alliser’s w atch w ith F reen y, and that F re en y had to ld him,
G aul, that John W elsh and the tw o G races h ad been w ith him a t tlie
robbery.
“ T h e com p an y on their quarrel b ro k e up, and the n ex t m orning
the spy m et the C o u n sello r at the p lace appointed, at a d istan ce from
Mr. R o b b in s’s house, to p revent suspicion, and there to ld the
Coun sellor what in telligen ce he had got. T h e C o u n sello r n o t b ein g
then a justice o f the peace, go t his brother to send for M o ll B rop h y
to be e x a m in e d ; but when she cam e, she refused to b e sworn o r to
give an y eviden ce, and thereupon the C oun sellor had h e r tied and
put on a car in order to be carried to gaol on a m ittim us from
M r. R obbin s, for refusing to giv e evid en ce on b e h a lf o f th e Crown.
W h en she found she w ould really b e sent to gaol, she subm itted to
b e sworn, and the C o u n sello r drew from her w hat she had said the
night before, and som ething further, and desired her n ot to tell an y
b o d y w hat she had sw orn.”
B ut if the C oun sellor was acute, w ere there n ot others as cle v e r as
he ? F o r when, in con sequence o f the inform ation o f M rs. B rop h y,
som e gentlem en w ho had been engaged in the burglarious enterprises
in w hich M r. F reen y obtained so m uch honour w ere seized an d tried,
F reen y cam e forward with the b est o f argum ents in th eir favour.
In d eed , it is fine to see these tw'o great spirits m atched o n e agdinst
the other,— the C ounsellor, w ith all the regular force o f th e co u n try
to b a ck him ,— the H igh w ay G eneral, w ith but the w ild reso u rces o f
his gallan t genius, and w ith cunning and bravery for his c h ie f allies.
“ I la y b y for a con siderable tim e after, and co n clu d e d w ith in
m y self to do no m ore m isch ief till after the assizes, w hen I w o u ld
hear how it went with the m en w ho w ere then in co n fin em en t S o m e
tim e before the assizes C o u n sello r R o b b in s cam e to B allydu ff, and
to ld his brother that he b elieved A n derson an d W elsh w ere gu ilty,
and also said he w ould endeavour to h ave them b o th h a n g e d : o f
w hich I w as inform ed.
“ Soon after, I w ent to the house o f one G eo rg e R o b e rts, w h o
A J U R Y FOR E V E R /
159
ask ed m e i f I had an y regard for those fellow s w ho w ere then co n
fined (m ean in g A n d erso n and W elsh). I told him I had a regard for
one o f them : upon w hich he said he h ad a friend w ho was a man o f
p o w er a n d interest,— that he w ould save either o f them , provid ed I
w ou ld g iv e him five guineas. I told him I w ould g iv e him ten, and
the first g o ld w atch I co u ld g e t ; w hereupon he said that it was o f no
use to sp eak to his friend w ithout the m on ey or value, for that he was
a m ercen ary m a n : on w hich I told R o b erts I had not so m uch
m o n e y a t that tim e, but that I w ould give him m y w atch as a p led ge
t o g iv e his friend. I then gave him m y w atch, and desired him to
e n g a g e that I w ou ld p ay the m on ey w hich I prom ised to pay, or giv e
v a lu e for it in plate, in tw o o r three nights a fte r; upon w hich he
en g ag ed that his friend w ould act the needful. T h e n w e appointed a
n ig h t to m eet, and w e acco rdin gly m e t ; and R o b erts told m e that his
frie n d agreed to save A n derson and W elsh from the g a llo w s ; w here
u p o n I g a v e him a plate tankard, value 10/., a large ladle, value 4/.,
w ith som e tablespoons. T h e assizes o f K ilk e n n y , in spring, 1748,
co m in g on soon after. C oun sellor R o b b in s had W elsh transm itted
from N a as to K ilk e n n y , in order to giv e eviden ce against A nderson
a n d W elsh ; an d they were tried for M rs. M oun ford’s robbery, on the
ev id e n ce o f John W elsh and others. T h e physic w orking w ell, six o f
th e ju ry w ere for finding them guilty, and six m ore for acquittin g
th e m ; an d the other six finding them perem ptory, and that th ey w ere
reso lved to starve the others into com plian ce, as they say they m ay
d o b y law , w ere for their own sakes obliged to co m p ly w ith them ,
a n d th ey w ere acquitted. O n w hich C oun sellor R o b b in s began to
sm oke the affair, and suspect the operation o f go ld dust, w hich was
w e ll app lied for m y com rades, and thereupon left the court in a rage,
a n d swore he w ould for ever quit the country, since he found p eop le
w ere n ot satisfied w ith p rotectin g and saving the rogues they had
un der them selves, b ut m ust also show that th ey could and w ould
o b lig e others to have rogues under them w hether th ey w ould or n o.”
H e re C o u n sello r R o b b in s certain ly loses that greatness w hich
h a s distinguished him in his form er attack on F r e e n y ; the C o u n
sello r is defeated and loses his temper.
L ik e N apoleon , he is
un equ al to r e v e rs e s : in adverse fortune his presence o f m ind
deserts him.
B u t w hat ca ll had he to b e in a passion at a ll? It m ay b e very
w ell for a m an to b e in a rage because he is disappointed o f his p r e y ;
i6o
so is the haw k, w hen the d o ve escapes, in a r a g e ; b u t let us refl
that, had C o u n sello r R o b b in s had his will, tw o honest fell<
w ould h ave been h a n g e d ; and so let us b e h eartily thankful t
he was disappointed, and that these m en w ere acq uitted b y a j
o f their countrym en.
W h at right had the C o u n sello r, forso(
to interfere with their v e r d ic t?
N o t against Irish juries a t <
does the old satire apply, “ A n d culprits han g that jurym en r
1
din e ? ”
A t K ilk e n n y , on the contrary, the jurym en starve in or
that the culprits m ight b e saved — a n oble and hum ane a c t o f s
denial.
In another case, stem justice, and the law o f self-preservati
co m pelled Mr. F reen y to take a ve ry different course w ith resp
to one o f his ex-associates. In the form er instance w e h ave s
him paw ning his w atch, giv in g up tankard, tablespo o n s— all,
his suffering frie n d s ; here w e have his m ethod o f dealin g v
traitors.
O n e o f his friends, b y the nam e o f D o o liu g, w as taken prisoi
and condem ned to be hanged, w hich gave M r. F reen y, he says,
great s h o c k ; ” but presently this Dooling*s fears w ere w orked U|
b y som e traitors w ithin the gaol, and—
“ H e then consented to d is c o v e r ; but I had a friend in gao
the sam e tim e, one P atrick H e a ly , w ho daily insinuated to him tha
was o f no use or advantage to him to d isco ver anything, as he recer
sen ten ce o f death ; and that, after he had m ade a discovery, th ey wo
leave him as he was, w ithout troubling them selves abou t a repric
But notw ithstanding, he told the gentlem en that there w as a n
blind of an eye 7vho had a bay-mare, that lived at the other sid<
T ho m asto w n bridge, whom he assured them w ould b e v e ry troul
som e in that neighbourhood after his death.
W h en H e a ly discove
w hat he told the gentlem en, he one night to o k an opportunity s
m ade D o o lin g fuddled, and prevailed upon him to tak e his oath
n ever w ould give the least hint abou t m e a n y m ore. H e also t
him the p en alty that attended infringing upon his oath— but m
esp ecially as he was at that tim e near his end— ^which h ad the d esi
e ffe c t; for he never m entioned m y nam e, n or even anythin g relal
to m e,” and so w ent out o f the w orld repen ting o f his m edita
treason.
W h at further exploits M r. F reen y perform ed m a y b e learned
the curious in his h is to ry : th ey are all, it n eed scarcely b e said, (
F R E E N Y 'S L A S T EXPLOITS.
i6 i
lilar nature to that n oble action w hich has already been d e sc rib e d
5 escapes from his enem ies w ere m a rv ello u s; his courage in facin g
;m equally g r e a t H e is atta cked b y w hole “ arm ies,” through
ich he m akes his w a y ; w ounded, h e lies in the w oods for days
[ether w ith three bullets in his leg, and in this con dition m anages
escape several “ a rm ie s ” that have been m arched against him.
: is supposed to b e dead, or travelling on the continent, and sudiJy makes his app earan ce in his old haunts, advertising his arrival
robbing ten m en on tlie highw'ay in a single day. A n d so
ible is his courage, or so popular his manners, that he describes
res o f labourers lo o k in g on w hile his exploits were perform ed,
I not afford ing the least aid to the roadside traveller w hom he
iquished.
But num bers alw ays prevail in the e n d : w hat could L eon id as
iself do again st an a rm y ? T h e gallan t band o f brothers led b y
eny were so pursued b y the indefatigable R o b b in s and his myrlons, that there w as no hope left for them , and the C ap tain saw
t he m ust succum b.
He reasoned, how ever, w ith h im self (with his usual keen logic),
I s a id : “ M y men m ust fa ll,— the w orld is to o strong for us, a n ^
lay, or to-m orrow— it m atters scarcely w hen— they m ust yield,
ey will b e hanged for ia certainty, and thus w ill disappear the
)lest com p an y o f k n igh ts the w orld has ever seen.
“ But as they w ill certain ly b e hanged, and n o p ow er o f m ine can
e them, is it necessary that I should follow them too to the tree ?
I will Jam es B u lger’s fate b e a w hit m ore agreeable to him , because
nes F reen y dangles at his sid e ? T o suppose so, w ould b e to
nit that h e was actuated b y a savage feeling o f revenge, w hich I
)w belongs n ot to his generous nature.”
In a w ord, M r. F re en y resolved to turn king’s e v id e n ce ; for
ugh he swore (in a com m unication with the im placable R o bbin s)
t he w ould rather die than b etray Bulger, y et w hen the C oun sellor
[ed that he m ust then die, F reen y says, “ I prom ised to subm it,
I understood that B u lg ^ should be set.''
A ccordin gly som e days afterwards (although the C ap tain carefully
ids m entioning that he had m et his friend w ith an y such intenis as those in dicated in the last paragraph) he and M r. Bulger
le to g e th e r: and, strangely enough, it was agreed that the one w as
Jeep w hile the other k ep t w a t c h ; and, w hile thus em ployed, the
II
i 62
t h e IRISH SK E TC H BOOK.
enem y cam e upon them. B ut let F re en y d escribe for himsdf the
last passages o f his history ;
“ W e then w ent to W elsh’s house, with a view n o t to make any
d elay th e r e ; but, taking a glass extraordinary after supper, Bulger
fell asleep. W elsh, in the m eantim e, told m e his house was the safest
l^lace I could get in that neighbourhood, and w hile I remained there
I w ould be very safe, provid ed that n o person kn ew o f m y coining
there (I had not acquain ted him that B reen k n ew o f m y coming that
w'ay). I told W elsh that, as B u lger w as asleep, I w ou ld n o t go to bed
till m orning : upon >vhich W elsh and I stayed up all n ight, and in the
m orning W elsh said that he and his wnfe had a ca ll to Callcn, it
b ein g m arket-day. A b o u t nine o’clo c k I w en t an d aw o ke Bulger,
desiring him to get up and guard m e w^hilst I slept, as I guarded him
all n ig h t ; he said he w ould, and then I w ent to bed charging him to
w atch close, for fear w e should b e su rp rised
I put m y blunderbuss
and two cases o f pistols under m y head, and soon fell fast asleep
In two hours after the servant-girl o f the house, seein g an enemy
com ing into the yard, ran up to the room w here w e w ere, and said
that there w ere an hundred m en com in g into the y a r d ; upon which
Bulger im m ediately aw oke me, and, taking up m y blunderbuss, he
fired a shot towards the door, w hich w ounded M r. Burgess, one of
the sheriffs o f K ilk e n n y , o f w hich w ound he died. T h e y concluded
to set the house on fire about us, w hich th ey a cco rd in gly d i d ; upon
w hich I took m y fusee in one hand, and a pistol in the other, and
Bulger did the like, and as w e cam e out o f the door, w e fired on
both sides, im agining it to b e the b est m ethod o f dispersing the
enem y, w ho w ere on b oth sides o f the door. W e g o t through them,
but they fired after us, and as B u lger w as leap in g o v e r a d itd i b<
received a shot in the sm all o f the leg, w hich ren dered him incapaWi
o f ru n n in g ; but, getting into a field, w here I h ad the d itch betw ea
m e and the enem y, I still w alked slow ly w ith Bulger, till I though
the enem y were within shot o f the ditch, and then w h eeled b a ck t
the ditch and presented m y fusee at them .
T h e y a ll drew b a c k an
w ent for their horses to ride round, as the field w as w ide a n d o p d
and w ithout co ver excep t the ditch. W h en I discovered their intei
tion I stood in the m iddle o f the field, and one o f the gentlem en'
sei^-ants (there were fourteen in num ber) rode forem ost tow ards me
upon w hich I told the son o f a cow ard I b elieved h e h a d n o m oi
than five pounds a y ea r from his m aster, and that I w ou ld p u t him i
F R E E N r s L A S T EXPLOITS.
163
uch a co n ditio n that his m aster w ould n ot m aintain him afterwards.
'0 which h e answ ered that he had n o view o f d o in g us an y harm, b u t
lat he w as com m anded b y his m aster to ride so near u s ; and
len im m ediately rode b a c k to the enem y, w ho w ere com ing towards
im.
T h e y rode alm ost within shot o f us, and I observed they
itcnded to surround us in the field, and p revent m e firom having an y
xx)UTse to the ditch again. B ulger w as at this tim e so bad w ith the
ound, that h e co u ld n ot go one step w ithout lean in g on m y shoulder,
t length, seein g th e enem y com in g w ithin shot o f me, I laid dow n
ty fusee an d stripped o ff m y coat and w aistcoat, and running
>wards them , cried out, ‘ Y o u sons o f cow ards, com e on, and I w ill
low yo u r brains out I' O n w hich th ey returned b a ck , and then I
alked easy to the p lace w here I left m y clothes, and put them on,
ad B ulger and I w d k e d leisurely som e distance further. T h e enem y
dime a seco n d tim e, and I occasion ed them to draw b a ck as before,
nd then w e w alked to L o rd D ysa rt’s deer-park w all. I go t up the
all and h elp ed B ulger up. T h e enem y, w ho still pursued us, though
ot w ithin shot, seeing us on the w all, one o f them fired a random
hot at us to no purpose.
W e go t safe over the w all, and w ent firom
hence in to m y L o rd D ysart’s w ood, w here B ulger said he w ould
emain, thin kin g it a safe p la c e ; but I told him he w ould b e safer anyrhere else, for the arm y o f K ilk e n n y and C a llen w ould b e soon abou t
he wood, and that he w ould b e taken if he stayed there. Besides, as
[ was v e ry averse to betrayin g him at all, I could n ot bear the
houghts o f his b ein g taken in m y com pan y b y any p arty but L o rd
Cairick’s. I then brought him about h a lf a m ile beyon d the w ood,
md left him there in a brake o f briars, and lo o kin g towards the w'ood
I saw it surrounded b y the arm y. T h e re was a cabin near that p lace
idicre I fixed B u lg e r : h e said h e w ould go to it a t night, and he
TOuld send for som e o f his friends to tak e care o f him. I t w as then
ilmost tw o o ’clo ck, and w e w ere four hours goin g to that p lace,
vhich w as abou t tw'O m iles from W elsh’s house.
Im agining that
here w ere spies fixed on all the fords and by-roads betw een that
)lace a n d the m ountain, I w'ent towards the bounds o f the co un ty
Tipperary, w here I arrived about nightfall, and go in g to a cabin, I
s k ^ w hether there w as an y drink sold near that p la c e ? T h e m an
if the house said there w as n o t ; and as I w as very m uch fatigued, I
at dow n, and there refreshed m y self w ith w hat the cabin afforded,
then b ^ e d o f the m an to sell m e a p air o f his brogues and stock
i64
the
IRISH SK ETCH BOOK.
ings, as I w as then barefooted, w hich h e acco rd in gly did, I quitted
the house, w ent through K in sheen ah and F o u la co p p al, and having
so m any thorns in m y feet, I was o bliged to g o barefooted, and went
to Sleedelagh, and through the m ountains, till I cam e within four
m iles o f W aterford, and go in g into a cabin, the m an o f the house
to o k eighteen thorns out o f the soles o f m y feet, an d I remained in
and abou t that p lace for som e tim e after.
“ In the m eantim e a friend o f m ine w as to ld that it w as impossible
for m e to escape death, for B u lg er had turned against m e, and that
his friends and Stack w ere resolved upon m y li f e ; b u t the peraon
w ho to ld m y friend so, also said, that i f m y friend w ou ld set Bulger
and Breen, I m ight get a pardon through the E arl o f C arrick’s means
M y friend said that h e was sm
I would not consait to such a thing, hut the best way was to do it wknoum to vie; and m y friend acco rd in gly set Bulger, w h o was taken
and Counsellor R o b b in s’s interest.
b y tlie E arl o f C arrick and his party, and M r. F it^ e r a ld , and six of
C oun sellor R o b b in s’s soldiers, and conunitted to K ilk e n n y gaoL He
w as three days in gaol before I heard he was taken, b e in g a t that time
tw'enty m iles distant from the n eigh b o u rh o o d ; n or d id I hear from him
or see him since I left him near L o rd D ysart’s w oo d ,
till afrim i
cam e and told m e it w as to preserve m y life and to fulfil m y artidei
that B ulger was taken .”
•
•
•
•
•
“ F in d in g I w as suspected, I w ithdrew to a neighbouring wood
and co n cealed m y self there till night, and then w en t to Ballyduff to
M r. F itzgerald and surrendered m y self to him , till I co u ld write to
m y L o rd C a r r ic k ; w hich I did im m ediately, and g a v e him an account
o f w hat I escaped, or that I w ould h ave go n e to B allylyn ch and
surrendered m yself there to him , and begged his lordship to send
guard for m e to con duct m e to his house— ^which h e d id , and I
rem ained there for a few days.
a
“ H e then sent m e to K ilk e n n y g a o l; and at the sum m er assizes
follow ing, Jam es Bulger, P a trick H a ck e t otherw ise B risteen, Martin
M illea, Joh n Stack, F e lix D o n elly, E d m u n d K e n n y , an d James
Iârrasy w ere tried, con victed , and e x e cu te d ; a n d at spring assizes
follow ing, G eorge R o b erts was tried for receivin g C o lo n e l Palliseria
go ld w atch know ing it to b e stolen, b u t w as acqu itted o n accoun t ol
exception s taken to m y pardon, w hich prevented m y g iv in g e v id e n ce
A t the follow ing assizes, w hen I had g o t a n ew pardon, R o b erts was
A L L HANGED i
165
igain tried for receivin g the tankard, ladle, and silver-spoons from
ne kn o w in g them to b e stolen, and w as co n victed and executed.
Vt the sam e assizes, Joh n R e d d y , m y instructor, an d M artin M illea,
Fere a lso tried, co n victed , and execu ted .”
A n d so th ey w ere a ll han ged : Jam es Bulger, P a trick H a ck e t or
Iristeen, M artin M illea, John S tack and F e lix D o n elly, and E dm und
iLenny a n d Jam es L arrasy, w ith R o b erts who received the C o lo n el’s
ratch, the tankard, ladle, and the silver-spoons, w ere all co n victed
n d execu ted . T h e ir nam es drop n aturally into b lan k verse. I t is
lard upon p o o r G eo rge R o b erts t o o : for the w atch he received was
10 d o u b t in the very inexpressibles w hich the C a p ta in h im self to o k
rom th e C o lo n el’s head.
A s for the C ap tain him self, he says that, on go in g out o f gao l,
Counsellor R o b b in s and L o rd C a rrick proposed a subscription for
lim — in w hich, strangely, the gen tlem en o f the coun ty w ould not
oin, and so that schem e cam e to n o th in g ; and so he published his
memoirs in order to g e t h im self a little m oney. M a n y a m an has
taken up the pen under sim ilar circum stances o f necessity.
But w hat becam e o f C ap tain F reen y aftenvards, does n ot appear.
Was he an hon est m an ever a fte r? W as he hanged fo r subsequent
m isdemeanors?
I t m atters little to him n o w ; though, perhaps,
one cann ot help feeling a little w ish that the latter fate m ay have
befallen him .
W hatever his death was, how ever, the history o f his life has been
one o f the m ost popular b o o k s ever k n ow n in this country. I t form ed
Ae class-book in those rustic universities w hich are now rapidly dis
appearing from am ong the hedges o f Ireland. A n d lest an y E n glish
reader should, on accoun t o f its low ness, quarrel with the introduction
here o f this strange picture o f w ild courage and daring, let him b e
reconciled b y the m oral at the end, w hich, in the persons o f B ulger
and the rest, hangs at the beam before K ilk e n n y gaol.
i66
CH APTER
X V I.
MORE RAIN IN GALWAY— A WALK THERE— ÂND THE SECOND
GALWAY
**
n i g h t ’s
ENTERTAINMENT.
S e v e n h ills h as R o m e , seven m o u th s h a s N ila s ’ stre a m ,
A r o u n d th e P o le seven b u rn in g p lan ets g le a m .
T w ic e e q u a l th ese is G a lw a y , C o n n a u g h t's R o m e :
T w ic e seven illu strio u s trib es h e re fin d th eir h o m e .*
T w ic e seven fair to w e rs th e c ity 's ra m p arts g u a r d :
E a c h hoiLse w ith in is b u ilt o f m a rb le h ard .
W it h lo fty tu rret fla n k ed , tw ic e seven th e ga tes,
T h r o u g h tw ic e seven b rid g e s w a te r p erm ea tes.
I n th e h ig h c h u rch are tw ic e seven a lta rs ra ise d ,
A t e ach a h o ly saint an d p a tro n 's p raised .
T w ic e seven th e co n v e n ts d ed ica te to h e a v e n ,—
S e v e n fo r th e fe m ale sex — fo r g o d ly fath ers s e v e n . " f
H a v in g read in H ardim an ’s H isto ry the quaint inscription in Irish
L atin , o f w hich the ab ove lines a te a version, an d lo o k ed admiringly
at the old plans o f G alw ay w hich are to b e found in th e sam e w<nt,
P w a s in hopes to have seen in the totvn som e con siderable remains
o f its form er splendour, in spite o f a w arning to the con trary which
the learned historiographer gives.
♦ B y th e h e lp o f an A le x a n d rin e , th e n am es o f th e se fam o u s fa m ilie s m ay ah®
b e a cco m m o d a te d to v erse.
** Athcy, Blake, Bodkin, Browne, Deane, Dorsey, Frindie,
Joyce, Morcch, Skcreth, Fonte, Kirowan, Mardn, Lynche.**
t I f th e ru d e o ld verses are n o t v e r y re m a r k a b le in q u a lity , in fuan/tfyihieyvt
s till m ore d eficien t, an d ta k e so m e d ire lib e rtie s w ith th e la w s la id d o w n in the
G ra d u s an d th e G ra m m a r :
Septem omant monies Romam, sepCem ostia Nilnm,
Tot rutilis stellis splendet in axe Polus.
Galvia, Polo Niloque bis aequas. Roma OmacbUe,
Bis septem illustres has colit Ola tribus.
Bis urbis septem defendunt moenia tunes,
Intus ct en duro est marmore quasque domus.
Bis septem portae sunt, castra et culmina drcum.
Per toiidem pontiUm permeat unda vias.
Principe bis septem fulgent altaria templq,
Quaevis patronae est ara dicata suo,
Et septem sacrata Deo coenobia, patrum,
Fceminei et sexus, tot pia tecta teneL**
THE M AYOR OF G ALW AY.
167
The old city certainly has som e relics o f its form er statelin ess;
nd, indeed, is tlie only tow n in Irelan d I h ave seen, w here an antiuaiy can find m uch su bject for study, o r a lo ver o f the picturesque
n occasion for using his pencil. It is a w ild, fierce, and m ost
riginal o ld town. J o y ce ’s C a stle in one o f the principal streets, a
uge square gray tower, w ith m any carvings and ornam ents, is a
allant relic o f its o ld days o f prosperity, and gives one an a\vful idea
f the tenem ents w hich the other fam ilies inhabited, and w hich are
esigned in th e Interesting plate w hich M r. H ardim an gives in his
rork. T h e C o lle g ia te C h urch , too, is still extant, w ithout its fourteen
Itars, and lo o ks to b e som ething betw een a church and a castle, and
s if it should b e served b y T em p lars w ith sword and helm et in p lace
)f mitre and crosier. T h e old houses in the M ain Street are lik e
brtrcsses : the w indow s look into a court w ith in ; there is but a sm all
ow door, an d a few grim w indow s peering suspiciously into the street.
Then there is L om bard Street, otherw ise called D ead m an ’s L an e,
^vith a raw-head and cross-bones and a “ m em ento m ori ” o ver the
:loor where the dreadful tragedy o f the L yn ch es was acted in 1493.
If Galway is the R o m e o f Con naught, Jam es L y n ch Fitzstephen, the
^âyo^, m a y b e con sidered as the L ucius Junius Bm tus thereof.
Lynch had a son w ho w en t to Spain as m aster o f one o f his father’s
ships, and b ein g o f an extravagant, w ild turn, there contracted debts,
ind drew’ bills, and alarm ed his father’s correspondent, w ho sent a
derk and n ephew o f his own b a ck in youn g L y n ch ’s ship to G alw ay
to settle accounts. O n the fifteenth day, youn g L y n ch threw the
Spaniard overboard. C o m in g b a ck to his own country, he reform ed
& life a little, and Avas on the point o f m arrying one o f the B lakes,
Burkes, B odkin s, or others, w hen a seam an w ho had sailed wdth him,
îng on the point o f death, confessed the m urder in w hich he had
)een a participator.
H ereon the father, w h o w as c h ie f m agistrate o f the town, tried
lis son, an d sen ten ced him to d e a t h ; and w hen the clan L y n ch ro se
3 a bo d y to rescue the yo u n g m an, and avert such a disgrace from
beir fam ily, it is said that F itzstep h en L y n ch hung the culprit w ith
is own hand. A traged y ca lled “ T h e W ard en o f G a lw a y ” has
een w ritten on the subject, an d w as acted a few nights before m y
rrival.
T h e w aters o f L o u g h C o rrib , w h ich “ p e rm ea te ” under the
ridges o f the town, g o rushing and roarin g to the sea w ith a noise.
i68
and eagerness o n ly kn ow n in G a lw a y ; and a lon g the ba n k s you se —
all sorts o f strange figures w ashing all sorts o f w onderful rags, wit
red petticoats and redder shanks stan din g in the stream . P igs a c ~
in every s t r e e t : the w hole tow n shrieks with them . T h e re a » - <
num bers o f idlers on the bridges, thousands in the streets, hu m m ir-^ ^
an d swarm ing in and out o f dark old ruinous h o u s e s ; co n g re g a te < /
round num berless apple-stalls, nail-stalls, bottle-stalls, p ig s fo o t-s ta lls ;
in qu eer old shops, that lo o k to be tw o centuries old ; loiterin g a b o u t
w arehouses, ruined or n o t ; lo o k in g at the w asherw om en washing in
the river, or at the fish-donkeys, or at the potato-stalls, or a t a vessel
com in g into the quay, or at the b oats p uttin g out to sea.
T h a t b o a t at the qu ay, b y the little o ld gate, is boun d for A nan- m ore ; and one n ext to it has a freight o f passengers for th e cliffs o f
M o h ir on the C la re c o a s t ; and as the sketch is taken , a hundred
o f p eo p le have stopped in th e street to lo o k on, and are buzzing
b eh in d in Irish, tellin g the little b o y s in that language— ^who will
persist in p lacin g them selves e x a ctly in the front o f the d esig n er— to
g e t out o f his w a y : w hich th ey do for som e t im e ; b u t a t length
curiosity is so intense that yo u are entirely hem m ed in an d th e view
rendered quite invisible. A sailor’s w ife com es up— w h o speaks
E n glish— with a v e ry wistful face, an d begins to h in t that them b la ck
pictures are very b a d likenesses, and very d ear to o fo r a p o o r w om an,
.a n d how m uch w ould a painted one co st do es his h on our th in k ?
G ALW AY.
169
le has h e r husband that is go in g to sea to th e W e st In d ies
ow, an d she’d g iv e anythin g to have a picture o f him. S o I
)old to offer to tak e his likeness for n othing. B u t he n ever
:xcept one d a y at dinner, and n ot at all on the n ext day,
1 stayed on purpose to acco m m o d ate him.
I t is true that it
uring w ith ra in ; and as E n glish w aterp ro o f clo ak s are n ot
o o f in Irdandy the traveller w ho has b u t one co a t m ust o f
y resp ect it, and had b etter stay w here he is, unless he prefers
) b e d w hile he has his clo th es dried at the next stage.
! houses in the fashion able street w here the club-house stands
ig buildin g, w ith an agreeable O ld B a iley lo o k,) h ave the
ince o f so m any little N ew gates. T h e C a th o lic chap els are
us, unfinished, and ugly. G reat w arehouses and m ills rise up
stream, or in the m idst o f unfinished streets here and t h e r e ;
idsom e con vents w ith their gardens, justice-houses, barracks,
jpitals adorn the large, poor, bustling, rough-and-ready-looking
A m an w ho sells hunting-whips, gunpow der, guns, fishingand brass and iron ware, has a few b o o ks on his co u n ter; an d
in a by-street, w ho carries on the profession o f a m illiner.
It h er stock in a sim ilar w ay.
B u t there w ere no regular
lOps that I saw, and w hen it cam e on to rain I had n o
2 b ut the hedge-school volum es again. T h e y , lik e P a trick
n’s sign, (w hich w as faithfully co p ied in the to\vn), present
rery rude flowers o f p o etry an d “ e n tertain m en t” o f an
n gly hum ble s o r t; b ut such shelter is n ot to b e despised
0 b e tte r is to b e h a d : n ay, p o ssibly its n o v elty m ay b e piquant
; readers, as an adm irer o f Shakspeare w ill o ccasio n ally conto listen to M r. P u n ch , o r an epicure to co n ten t h im self
1
lo m ely dish o f bean s and bacon.
en M r. K ilr o y ’s w aiter has draw n the w indow -curtains, brought
170
the hot-w ater for the w hisky-negus, a p ip e and a “ screw ” o f tobacco,
and two huge old can d lesticks that w ere p lated o n ce, th e a udien ce •=
m ay b e said to b e assem bled, and a fler a little overture perform ed
on the pipe, the secon d night’s entertainm ent b egin s w ith th e h is t o r ic a M
tragedy o f the “ B attle o f A ugh rim .”
T h o u g h it has found its w ay to the W est o f Irelan d, the “ B a t t l e
o f A ughrim ” is evid en tly b y a Protestan t author, a g rea t en e m y o ^
p o pery and w o o d e n -sh o es; b o th o f w hich principles in carn ate i r a
the person o f Saint R u th , the F rench G en eral com m an d in g t h e
troops sent b y L o u is X I V . to the aid o f Jam es I I ., m eet w ith a
w oful dow nfall at the con clusion o f the p iece . I t m ust h a v e b e en
wTitten in the reign o f Q u een A n n e, ju d g in g from som e loyal co m
plim ents w hich are paid to that sovereign in the p l a y ; w h ich is also
m odelled upon “ C a to .”
T h e “ B attle o f A ughrim ” is wTitten from b egin n in g to end in
d ecasyllab ic verse o f the richest s o r t ; an d introduces us to the chieft
o f W illiam ’s and Jam es’s armies. O n the E n glish side w e h a v e Baron
de G in ck le, three G en erals, and tw o C o lo n e ls ; on the Irish, Monsieur
Saint R u th , tw o G en erals, two C o lo n els, and an E n glish gentlem an
o f fortune, a volunteer, and son o f no less a person than S ir Edmundb u iy G odfrey.
T h e re are tw o ladies — Jem im a, the Irish C o lo n e l
T a lb o t’s
daughter, in lo ve w ith G o d fr e y ; and L u cin d a, la d y o f C o lo n el
H erbert, in love with her lord. A n d the d eep nature o f th e tragedy
m ay b e im agined w hen it is stated that C o lo n e l T a lb o t is killed .
C o lo n el H e rb e rt is killed. Sir C h arles G o d frey is killed , a n d Jem im a
com m its suicide, as resolved not to survive h er adorer. S t R u th is
also killed, and the rem aining Irish heroes are tak en prisoners or
run away. A m o n g the supernum eraries there is likew ise a dreadftil
slaughter.
T h e author, how ever, though a Protestan t is an Irishm an (there
are peculiarities in his pronunciation w h ich b elo n g o n ly to that
nation), and as far as courage go es, h e allow s the tw o p arties to b e
p retty e q u a l T h e scene opens w ith a m artial sound o f kettle-drum s
and trum pets in the Irish cam p, n ear A th lo n e. T h a t tow n is b e s i^ e d
b y G in ck le, and M on sieur S t R u th (despising his enem y w ith a con
fiden ce often fatal to G en erals) m editates an a tta ck on th e besiegers^
lines, if, b y an y chan ce, the b esieged garrison b e n o t in a con dition
to d rive them off. A fte r discoursin g on th e posture o f afiaixs, a n d
I N A N ARM-CHAIR.
171
letting G en eral Sarsfield and C o lo n el O ’N e il kn o w his hearty
contempt o f the E n glish and their G en eral, all parties, after pro
testations o f patriotism , in dulge in hopes o f the dow nfall o f W illiam .
S t Ruth says h e w ill drive the w olves and lions’ cubs away.
O’Neil d eclares h e scorns the revolution, and, lik e great C a to ,
smiles at persecution. Sarsfield longs for the d a y “ when our M o n ks
and Jesuits shall return, and h o ly incense on our altars b u m .”
When
“ /w /^raPost.
“ Posf.
W it h im p o rtan t n ew s I from A th lo n e am sen t,
B e p le a s e d to le a d m e to th e G e n e ra l’s ten t.
“ Sars.
B e h o ld th e G e n e ra l th e re .
“ S^. Ruth.
“ Post.
D e c la r e y o u r m essage.
Y o u r m essa g e te ll.
A r e o u r frien ds a ll w e ll ?
P a rd o n m e, sir, th e fatal n e w s I b rin g
L ik e v u ltu re ’s p o iso n e v e ry h eart sh a ll stin g.
A th lo n e is lo st w ith o u t yo u r tim e ly aid.
A t s ix th is m o rn in g a n assa u lt w a s m ad e,
W h e n , u n d er s h e lter o f th e B ritis h can n on ,
T h e ir g re n a d iers in arm o u r to o k th e S h a n n o n ,
L e d b y b ra v e C a p ta in S a n d y s , w h o with fam e
Plunged to his middle in the rapid stream.
H e le d th em th ro u g h , an d w ith u n d au n ted ire
H e g a in e d th e b a n k in sp ite o f a ll o ur h rc ;
B e in g b ra v e ly fo llo w e d b y h is g ren a d iers
T h o u g h b u lle ts flew lik e h a il ab o u t th eir ears,
A n d b y th is tim e th e y en ter u n co n trolled .
“ St. Ruth,
T
D a r e a ll th e fo rce o f E n g la n d b e so b o ld
a tte m p t to sto rm so b ra v e a to w n , w h e n I
W it h a ll H ib e rn ia ’s sons o f w a r am n ig h ?
R e tu rn : a n d i f th e B rito n s d are p u rsue.
T e l l th em S t R u t h is n ear, a n d that w ill do.
“ Post.
Y o u r a id w o u ld d o m u ch b e tter th an y o u r n am e.
“ St. Ruth,
B e a r b a c k th is an sw er, frien d , fro m w h e n c e y o u cam e.
\E xit P o s t ”
T h e p icture o f brave Sandys, “ w ho w ith fam e plunged to his
middle in the rapid stram e,” is n ot a b a d im age on the part o f the
P o s t ; and S t
R u th ’s reply, “ T e ll them St.
R u th is near, and
But
that w ill dof characteristic o f the va n ity o f his nation.
Sarsfield kn ow s Britons better, and pays a m erited com plim ent to
th e ir v a lo u r :
“ Sars.
S e n d s p e e d y succo urs a n d th e ir fa te p re ve n t,
Y o u k n o w n o t y e t w h a t B rito n s d a re a t te m p t
TH E IRISH S K E T C H BOOK.
172
I k n o w th e E n g lis h fo rtitu d e is such ,
T o b o ast o f n o th in g, th o u gh th e y h azard m uch .
N o fo rce on earth th e ir fu ry ca n re p e l,
N o r w o u ld th ey fly from a ll th e d e v ils in h e ll.”
A n o th er officer a r r iv e s : A th lo n e is really taken , St. R u th g iv es
orders to retreat to A ughrim , and Sarsfield, in a rage, first ch a llen ge s
him, and then vow s he w ill quit the army. “ A êam o f ho rro r
does m y vitals damp,'' says the F renchm an (in a figure o f sp ee ch
m ore rem arkable for vigour than lo g ic ) : “ I fear L o r d L u c a n has
forsook the c a m p ! ”
But not s o : after a m om entary in d ign atio n ,
Sarsfield returns to his duty, and ere lo n g is recon ciled w ith h is vain
an d vacillatin g chief.
A n d now the love-intrigue begins.
G o d frey enters, an d states
Sir C harles G o d frey is his lawful n a m e : he is an E n glishm an, a n d
w as on his w ay to jo in G in ck le ’s cam p, when Jem im a’s b e a u ty o v e r
cam e h im : he asks C o lo n el T a lb o t to bestow on him the la d y ’s
hand. T h e C o lo n el consents, and in A c t II ., on the p lain o f
A ughrim , at 5 o ’clo ck in the m orning, Jem im a enters and p ro claim s
her love. T h e lovers have an interview , w hich co n clu d es b y a
m utual confession o f attachm ent, and Jem im a says, “ H e re , ta k e m y
hand. ’T is true the gift is small, but w hen I can I ’ll giv e yo u h eart
a n d all.” T h e lines show finely the agitation o f the yo u n g person .
S h e m eant to say. T a k e my heart, but she is longing to b e m a m e d
to him , and the w ords slip out as it were unawares.
Godfirey cries
in raptures—
“ T h a n k s to th e g o d s ! w h o such a p resen t g a v e :
S u c h rad ian t g ra ces n e 'e r co u ld m an receive {resave) ;
F o r w h o on e arth h as e 'e r su ch tran spo rts k n o w n ?
\V h a t is th e T u rk is h m on a rch o n h is th ro n e.
H e m m e d round 7vi//i rusty nuords in p om p o u s sta te ?
A m id s t his co u rt no jo y s can b e so g re a t.
R e tir e w ith m e, m y so u l, n o lo n g er sta y
I n p u b lic v ie w ! th e G e n e ra l m o v e s th is w a y .”
•
’T is , indeed, the G e n era l; w ho, reco n ciled with Sarsfield, straight
w a y , accordin g to his custom , begins to b oast abou t w hat h e w ill d o :
“ T h r ic e w e lco m e to m y h e a rt, th o u b est o f frien ds I
T h e ro ck on w’h ich o u r h o ly faith d e p e n d s !
M a y th is o ur m e e tin g as a tem p est m a k e
T h e v ast fo u n d ation s o f B rita n n ia s h a k e .
IN A N ARM-CHAIR.
173
T e a r u p th e ir o ra n g e p lan t, an d o v e rw h e lm
T h e stro n gest b u lw a rk s o f th e B ritis h rea lm I
T h e n sh a ll th e D u tc h a n d H a n o v e ria n fa ll,
A n d J a m es sh a ll rid e in triu m p h to W h ite h a ll ;
T h e n to p ro te ct o u r faith h e w ill m ain tain
A n in q u isitio n h ere lik e th a t in S p ain .
“ Sars.
M o s t b ra v e ly u rged , m y lo rd ! y o u r s k ill, I o w n .
W o u ld b e unparalleled— h a d y o u sav ed A th lo n e .”
— “ H a d y o u saved A th lo n e ! ” Sarsfield has him there. A n d
th e con test o f w ords m ight h ave p ro vo k ed quarrels still m ore fatal,
b u t alarm s are heard : the battle begins, and St. R u th (still confident)
g o e s to m eet the enem y, exclaim ing, “ A th lo n e was sw eet, b ut
A u gh rim shall b e sour.” T h e fury o f the Irish is redoubled on
h earin g o f T a lb o t’s heroic d e a t h : the C o lo n el’s corpse is p resen tly
bro u gh t in, and to it enters Jem im a, w ho bew ails her loss in the
fo llo w in g p ath etic te r m s :—
** Janima.
O h !— h e is d e ad !— m y so u l is a ll on fire,
W itn e ss y e g o d s !— h e d id w ith fam e ex p ire.
F o r L ib e r ty a sacrifice w a s m ad e.
A n d fe ll, lik e P o m p e y , b y so m e villain's b lad e.
T h e r e lie s a b rea th le ss co rse, w h o s e so ul n e’e r k n e w
A th o u g h t b u t w h a t w a s a lw a y s ju s t and tru e ;
L o o k d o w n fro m h ea v en , G o d o f p eace an d lo v e .
W a ft h im w ith triu m p h to th e th ro n e a b o v e ;
• A n d , O y e w in g e d g u a rd ia n s o f th e sk ies !
T im e y o u r s w e e l h a rp s an d s in g h is ob seq u ies !
G o o d frien d s, stan d o ff
w h ilst I em b ra ce th e g ro u n d
W h e re o n h e lie s----------------- an d b a th e each m o rta l w o u n d
W it h brin ish tears, th a t lik e to to rren ts run
F r o m th ese sad eyes.
O h eav en s ! I ’m u n d o n e ,
[Falls down on the body,
“ Enter Sir C h a r l e s G o d f r e y .
He raises her,
“ Sir Char, W Tiy d o th ese p recio u s e y e s lik e foun tain s flo w .
To drown the radiant heaven that lies below /
D r y u p y o u r tears, I trust h is so u l ere th is
H a s rea ch ed th e m an sio n s o f etern al bliss.
S o ld ie r s ! b e a r h e n ce th e b o d y o u t o f sigh t.
\Thcy bear him off,
“ Jem.
O h , sta y— y e m urderers, cease to k ill m e q u it e :
S e e h o w h e g la re s !
an d see ag a in h e flies I
T h e clo u d s fly o p en , an d h e m ounts th e skies.
O h ! see h is b lo o d , it sh in es refu lgen t b rig h t,
I see h im y e t
1 ca n n o t lo se h im
qu ite,
B u t s till p u rsue h im o n — an d — lose my sight."
\
y
J
174
the
IRISH SK E T C H BOOK.
T h e gradual disappearance o f the C o lo n el’s soul is n ow finely i
cated, and so is her g r i e f : w hen show ing the b o d y to Sir Chai
she says, “ B ehold the m angled cause o f all m y w oes.” T h e sor
o f youth, how ever, is but tra n sito ry; an d w hen h er lo ver 1
her dry her gtishish tears, she takes out her pocket-handkerc
w ith the elasticity o f youth, and con soles herself for the fathei
the husband.
A c t I I I . represents the E n glish c a m p : G in ck le and his G ene
d is c o u r s e ; the arm ies are engaged.
In A c t I V . th e E n glish
w orsted in spite o f their valour, w hich Sarsfield grea tly descrfl
“ V ie w ,” says h e—
“ V ie w h o w th e fo e lik e an im p etu o u s flo o d
B r e a k s th ro u gh th e sm o k e , th e w'ater, an d — th e m u d ! **
It becom es exceed in gly hot.
C o lo n el E arles says—
“ In vain J o v e ’s lig h tn in g s issue fro m th e s k y ,
F o r d ea th m ore sure from B ritis h ensigfis fly.
T h e ir m essen gers o f d e a th m u ch b lo o d h a v e sp ille d ,
A n d fu ll th ree h u n d red o f th e Iris h k ille d .”
A description o f w'ar (H e r b e r t):—
“ N o w b lo o d y co lo u rs w a v e in a ll th eir p rid e ,
A nd
C(uh
proud hero does his beast bestridel'
G en eral D orrin gton ’s description o f the fight is, i f possible, s
m ore n o b le :
“ Dor,
H a s te , n o b le friends, and sa v e y o u r liv e s b y flig h t.
F o r ’tis b u t m ad n ess i f yo u stan d to figh t.
O u r c a v a lr y th e b a ttle h a v e fo rso o k ,
A n d d e a th ap p ears in e ach d e je cte d l o o k ;
N o th in g b u t d rea d confusion can b e seen.
F o r severed h e ad s an d tn m k s overspread th e gre e n ;
T h e fields, th e v ales, th e h ills , an d v an q u ish ed p la in ,
F o r five m iles round are co v e re d w ith th e sla in .
D e a th in e a c h q u a rter d o es th e e y e alarm ,
H e r e lies a leg , an d th ere a sh attered arm .
T h e r e h ead s ap p ear, w'hich, clo v e n b y m ig h ty b a n gs.
A n d severed q u ite, on e ith er sh o u ld e r h a n g s ;
T h is is th e a w fu l scen e, m y lo rd s !
O h , fly
T h e im p e n d in g d an ger, for y o u r fate is n ig h .”
1
W hich party, how ever, is to w in— the Irish or E n g lis h ? T
heroism is equal, and y o u n g G o d frey esp ecially, on the Irish si
I N A N ARM-CHAIR.
175
is carrying all before him — when h e is interrupted in the slaughter
by the ghost o f his father : o f old Sir E dm undbury, w hose m onum ent
we may see in W estm inster A b b ey .
Sir C harles, at first, doubts
about the genuineness o f this ven erable old apparition ; and thus puts
a case to the g h o s t :—
“ W e r e gh o sts in h e a v e n , in h eaven th e y th e re w o u ld sta y ,
O r i f in h e ll, they could uot get awayI '
A clincher, certainly, as one w ould im a g in e ; b u t tlie gh o st jum ps
over the horns o f the fan cied dilem m a, b y saying that he is n ot at
libert)’ to state w here he com es from.
“ Ghost.
W h e r e v isio n s rest, o r so u ls im p riso n e d d w e ll,
B y h e a v e n ’ s co m m an d , w e are fo rb id to t e l l ;
B u t in th e obscu re g r a v e — w h e re co rp se d e ca y ,
M o u ld e r in d ust an d p u trefy a w a y ,—
N o re s t is th e re ; fo r th e im m o rtal soul
T a k e s its fu ll flig h t an d flutters ro u n d th e P o le ;
S o m etim es I h o v e r o v e r th e E u x in e sea—
F r o m P o le to S p h e re , u n til th e ju d g m e n t d a y —
O v e r th e T h ra c ia n B o sp h o ru s d o I flo at.
A n d p ass th e S ty g ia n la k e in C h a r o n ’s b o a t,
O ’er V u lc a n ’ s fiery co u rt an d s u lp h ’rous ca v e .
A n d rid e lik e N e p tu n e o n a b rin y w a v e ;
L is t to th e b lo w in g n o ise o f E tn a ’s flam es,
A n d co u rt th e sh ad es o f A m a zo n ia n d a m e s ;
T h e n ta k e m y flig h t u p to th e g le a m y m oon :
T h u s d o I w a n d e r till th e d a y o f d o om .
P ro c eed I d are n o t, o r I w o u ld u n fo ld
A h o rrid ta le w o u ld m a k e y o u r b lo o d run co ld .
C h ill a ll y o u r n erv es an d sin ew s in a trice
L i k e w h isp e rin g riv u lets c o n g e a le d to ice.
“ Sir Char.
E r e y o u d e p a rt m e, g h o st, I h ere d e m an d
Y o u ’d le t m e k n o w y o u r la st d iv in e co m m an d ! ”
The ghost says that the youn g m an m ust die in the b a t t le ; that
it will go ill for him i f he die in the w rong c a u s e ; and, therefore,
that he had b est go o ver to the Protestants— w hich p o or Sir C h arles
(not without m any sighs for Jem im a) consents to do. H e go es o ff
then, saying—
** I ’l l jo in m y co u n trym e n , a n d y e t p ro c la im
N a ss a u ’ s g re a t title to th e crimson plaitU '
In A c t V ., that desertion turns the fate o f the day.
Sarsfield
i;6
TH E IRISH S K E T C H BOOK.
enters w ith his sword dra\vn, and ackn o w led ges his fate.
exclaim s L o rd L u can ,
“ Aughrim,"
“ A u y h r im is n o w n o m ore, S t R u th is d e a d ,
A n d a ll his g u a rd s a r e from th e b a ttle fled .
A s h e ro d e d o w n th e h ill h e m e t h is fa ll,
Atid dicii a victim to a cantton balK*
A n d he bids the F renchm an ’s b o d y to
“ ----------------------lie lik e P o m p e y in h is g o re ,
W h o s e h e ro ’s b lo o d en circle s th e E g y p tia n s h o r e .”
“ F o u r hundred Irish prisoners w e h ave go t,” exclaim s an English
G en eral, “ and seven 'thousan d lyeth on the spot.” I n fact, they arc
entirely discom fited, and retreat o ff the stage a lto g e th e r; while, in
the m om ent o f victo ry, p o or Sir C h arles G o d frey enters, wounded to
death, acco rd in g to tlie old gen tlem an ’s prophecy. H e is racked by
bitter rem orse : he tells his lo ve o f his treachery, an d declares
“ no crocod ile was ever m ore u n ju s t” H is a go n y increases, the
“ o p tic nerves grow dim and lose their sight, and a ll his veins arc
n ow exhausted q u it e ; ” and he dies in the arm s o f his Jem im a, who
stabs herself in the usual way.
A n d so every one b e in g disposed of, the drum s a n d trumpets
giv e a great peal, the a u d ien ce huzzas, a n d th e curtain falls on
G in ck le and his friends exclaim in g—
“ M a y a ll th e g o d s th* au sp icio u s e v e n in g bless,
W^ho cro w n s G r e a t B rita in ’s arrums w ith su cce ss 1 ”
A n d questioning the prosody, w hat En glishm an w ill n o t jo in in the
sentim ent ?
In the interlude the ban d (the pipe) perform s a favourite air#
J a ck the w aiter and candle-snuffer lo o k s to see that a ll is r e a d y ; and
after the dire business o f the tragedy, com es in to sp rin kle th e stage
w ith w ater (and perhaps a little w hisky in it). T h u s all things
b ein g arranged, the audien ce takes its seat again an d th e afterpiece
begins.
T w o o f the little y e llo w volum es p urchased a t E n n is are entitled
“ T h e Irish and H ib ern ian T a le s .” T h e form er are m o d e m , and
the latter o f an an cien t s o r t; and so great is the sup eriority o f the
old stories o ver the new , in fan cy, dram atic interest, a n d humour,
THE H IB E R N IA N TALES,
that
on e
can 't
liclp
fancyin^^
H ib ernia
nui.sl
have
177
be e n
a
very
superior coun try to Ireland.
T hese H ibern ian n ovels, too, are evidently intended for the hedgeschool universities. T h e y h ave the old tricks and som e o f the old
plots that o n e has read in m any popu lar legen ds o f alm ost all coun
tries, E uropean and E astern : successful cun n ing is the great virtue
applauded; an d the heroes pass through a thousand w ild extrava
gant dangers, such as could o n ly h ave been in vented w hen art w as
young and faith w as large.
A n d as the honest old author o f the
tales says “ th ey are suited to the m eanest as w ell as the highest
capacity, ten d in g both to im prove the fan cy and enrich the m ind,”
let us co n clu d e the night’s entertainm ent b y reading one or tw o o f
them, and rep osin g after the doleful tragedy w hich has b een
tciiresented. T h e “ B la ck T h i e f ” is w orthy o f the A ra b ian N igh ts,
I think,— âs w ild and o d d as an E astern tale.
It begins, as usual, w ith a K in g an d Q ueen w ho lived o n ce on a
tiinc in th e South o f Irelan d, and had three s o n s ; b ut the Q ueen
hemg on h er death-bed, and fan cyin g h er husband m ight m arry
again, and un w illin g that her children should be under the ju risd ic
tion of a n y other w om an, besought his M a jesty to p lace them in a
tower at h er death, and k e ep them there safe until the yo u n g P rin ces
should co m e o f age.
T he Q u een dies : the K in g o f course m arries again, and the new
Queen, who bears a son too, hates the offspring o f the form er m ar
riage, and lo o k s abou t for m eans to destroy them.
“ A t len gth the Q ueen , having got some business with the hen-wifey
went h erself to her, and after a long con feren ce passed, was tak in g
leave o f her, w h en the hen-wife p rayed that i f ever she should com e
hack to h er again she m ight b reak her n eck. T h e Q ueen , greatly
incensed a t such a daring insult from one o f her m eanest subjects,
to make such a prayer on her, dem anded im m ediately the reason,
or she w ou ld h ave her put to death.
‘ It w as worth your w hile,
tnadam,’ says the hen-wife, ‘ to p ay m e w ell for it, for the reason I
prayed so on yo u con cerns yo u m uch.’ ‘ W h at m ust I p ay yo u ? ’
asked the Q u een . ‘ Y o u m ust giv e m e,’ says she, ‘ the full o f a p ack
of w o o l: and I have an ancient cro ck w hich you m ust fill w ith
butter; likew ise a barrel w hich yo u m ust fill for m e full o f w h e a t ’
‘ H ow m uch w oo l w ill it tak e to the p a ck ? * says the Q ueen . ‘ I t
will tak e seven herds o f sh eep ,’ said she, ‘ a n d their increase for
12
178
THE IRISH S K E T C H BOOK.
seven years.* ‘ H o w m uch b u tter w ill it tak e to fill y o u r c ro c k ? *
‘ S e ve n dairies,’ said she, and the in crease fo r seven years.* ‘ A nd
how m uch w ill it tak e to fill the barrel yo u h ave ? * say s th e QueexL
* It w ill take the increase o f seven barrels o f w heat for seven yean.*
‘ T h a t is a great quantity,’ says the Q u een , ‘ b u t th e reason must
b e extraordinary, and before I w ant it I w ill g iv e y o u all you
demand.* ”
T h e hen-wife acquaints the Q u een w ith the e xisten ce o f the three
sons, and givin g her M a je sty an en ch an ted p a ck o f cards, bids her to
g e t the yo u n g m en to p lay with her with these cards, an d on their
losing, to inflict upon ffiem such a task as m ust in fallib ly end in
their ruin. A ll yo u n g princes are set upon such tasks, and it is a
sort o f op en ing o f the pantom im e, befo re th e trick s a n d activity
begin.
T h e Q ueen w en t hom e, and “ go t sp eakin g ” to th e K in g “ in
regard o f his children, and
s/ie broke it off to him in a v e ry polite and
engagin g manner, so that he could see n o m uster o r design in i t ” The
K in g agreed to brin g his sons to court, and a t night, w h en the royal
p arty “ began to sport, and p lay at all kin ds o f diversion s,” th e Queen
cun n ingly challen ged the three P rin ces to p la y cards. T h e y lose,
and she sends them in con sequence to b rin g h er b a ck th e K n ig h t of
the G len ’s w ild steed o f bells.
O n their road (as w andering yo u n g prin ces, In d ia n o r Irish,
alw ays do) they m eet w ith the B la ck T h ie f o f Sloan , w h o tells them
w hat they m ust do. B ut th ey are caugh t in th e attem pt, a n d brought
“ into that dism al part o f the p ala ce w here the K n ig h t k e p t a furnace
alw ays boiling, in w hich he threw all offenders that e v e r ca m e in his
w ay, w hich in a few m inutes w ou ld entirely con sum e them . * A u d a
cious v illa in s ! ’ says the K n ig h t o f the G len , ‘ how d a re y o u attem pt
so b o ld an action as to steal m y steed ? see n ow tlie rew ard o f your
f o l ly : for your greater punishm ent, I w ill n o t b o il y o u a ll togeth er,
but one after the other, so that he that survives m a y w itn ess the dire
afflictions o f his unfortunate companions.* S o sayin g, h e o rd ered his
servants to stir up the fire. ‘ W e w ill bo il the eld esM o o k in g o f these
y o u n g m en first,* says he, ‘ and so on to th e last, w h ich w ill b e this
old champion w ith the b la ck cap. H e seem s to b e th e ca p ta in , and
lo o ks as if he had com e through m an y toils.’— * I w as a s n ea r d eath
o n ce as this P rin ce is y e t,’ says the B la c k T h ie^ ‘ a n d escap ed : and
so w ill he to o .’ ‘ N o , you n ever w ere,’ said th e K n ig h t, ‘ fo r h e is
w ithin two o r three m inutes o f his latter end.’
‘ B u t,’ says th e B la c k
THE B LA C K THIEF.
179
T h ief, ‘ I w as w ith in o n e m om ent o f m y death, and I am here ycV
* H o w w as t h a t ? ’ says th e K n ig h t ‘ I w ou ld b e g la d to hear it, for
it seem s to b e im possible.’ ‘ I f yo u thin k. Sir K n ig h t,’ says the
Black T h ie f, ‘ that the danger I was in surpassed that o f this y o u n g
man, w ill y o u p ardon him his c r im e ? ’ ‘ I w ill,’ says the K jiig h t,
‘ so g o o n w ith your story.’
“ ‘ I w as, sir,’ says he, ‘ a very w ild b o y in m y youth, and cam e
through m an y distresses : o n ce in particular, as I w as on m y
ram bling, I w as benighted, and could find no lodging. A t length I
cam e to an o ld kiln, and b ein g m uch fatigued, I w ent up and la y on
the rib s. I h ad n o t been lo n g there, w hen I saw three w itches
co m in g in w ith three bags o f gold.
E ach put her b ag o f go ld
u n d er h e r head as i f to sleep.
I heard the one say to the other
that i f th e B la ck T h ie f cam e on them w hile they slept he w ould not
lea ve them a penny.
I found b y their discourse that everybody
had g o t m y nam e into their m outh, though I k ep t silent as death
during their discourse.
A t length they fell fast asleep, and then
I sto le softly dow n, and seeing som e tu rf convenient, I placed o n e
under each o f their heads, and o ff I w ent w ith their g o ld as fast a s
I co u ld .
“ ‘ I had n ot gon e far,’ continued the T h ie f o f Sloan, ‘ until I saw
a greyhou nd, a hare, and a haw k in pursuit o f me, and began to
think it m ust b e th e w itches that had taken that m etam orphosis, in
order th at I m ight n ot escape them unseen either b y land or water.
S eein g th ey did not appear in a n y form idable shape, I was m ore
thAn o n ce resolved to attack them , thinking that with m y broad
sw o rd I could easily destroy them. But considering again that it
w a s perhaps still in their pow er to b eco m e so, I gave over the
a tte m p t, and clim bed w ith difficulty up a tree, bringing m y sword
in m y han d, and all the g o ld alon g w ith me. H o w ever, w hen they
c a m e to the tree they found w hat I had done, and, m aking further
u s e o f their hellish art, one o f them was chan ged into a sm ith’s anvil,
a n d another into a p iece o f iron, o f w hich the third one soon m ade a
h a tch e t.
H a v in g the hatchet m ade, she fell to cutting dow n the
tre e , an d in course o f an hour it began to shake with m e.’ ”
T h is is very go o d and original.
T h e “ b o ilin g ” is in the first
fee-faw-fum style, and the old allusion to “ the old cham pion in the
b la c k ca p ” has d ie real O gresque humour.
N o r is that sim ple con
trivan ce o f the honest w itches w ithout its c h a rm ; for if, instead o f
i8o
w asting their tim e, the one in turning h erself in to an anvil, the other
into a p iece o f iron, and so ham m ering out a hatchet a t considerable
labour and expense— if either o f them had turned h erself into a
hatchet at once, th ey m ight have chopped dow n th e B lack Thief
before cock-crow , when they w ere obliged to fly o ff an d leave him in
possession o f the bags o f gold.
T h e eldest Prince is ransom ed b y the K n ig h t o f the Glen in
consequence o f this s to r y : and the second Prince escapes on account
o f the merit o f a second s to r y ; but the great story o f a ll is o f course
reserved for the youngest Prince.
“ I was one d ay on m y travels,” says the B la ck T h ie f, “ andI
cam e into a large forest, w here I w a n d e r ^ a lo n g tim e and could not
g et out o f it. A t length I cam e to a large castle, and fatigue obliged
m e to call into the same, w here I found a youn g wom an, and a child
sitting on her knee, and she crying. I asked her w h at m ade her cry,
and where the lord o f the castle was, for I w'ondered greatly that I
saw no stir o f servants or an y person about the p lace. ‘ I t is well
for you,’ says the youn g wom an, ‘ that the lord o f this castle is not
at hom e at p re s e n t; for he is a m onstrous giant, with but one eye on
his forehead, w ho lives on hum an flesh. H e brought m e this child,*
says she— ‘ I do n ot know w here he go t it— and ordered m e to m ake it
into a pie, and I cannot help cryin g at the com m and.’ I to ld her
that i f she kn ew o f any p lace con venient that I co u ld le a v e the
child safely, I would do it, rather than that it should be buried in the
bow els o f such a monster. She told o f a house a distance off, where
I w ould get a wom an w ho w ould take care o f i t
‘ B ut w hat w ill I
d o in regard o f the pie ? ’ ‘ C u t a finger o ff it,’ said I , ‘ an d I w ill
bring you in a youn g w ild p ig out o f the forest, w hich y o u m a y dress
as if it was the child, and put the finger in a certain p lace, that i f the
giant doubts anything about it, you m ay kn ow w here to turn it o ve r
a t first, and when he sees it he w ill be fully satisfied that it is m ade'
o f the child.’
She agreed to the plan I p ro p o se d ; and, cu ttin g o ff
the child’s finger, b y her direction I soon had it at the h o u se sh e
told me o f and brought h er the little p ig in the p lace o f i t S h e then
m ade ready the p i e ; and, after eating and drinking h eartily m y s e lf
I was just taking m y leave o f the youn g w om an w hen w e ob served
the giant com ing through the castle-gates. ‘ L o rd bless m e V said
she, ‘ w hat w ill you do now ? run aw ay and lie dow n am ong th e d ead
bodies tliat he has in the room ’ (show ing m e the place), * and strip o ff
THE B LA C K THIEF.
i8i
y o u r clo th es that he m ay n ot kn ow you from the rest i f he has
o c c a s io n to go that way.* I to o k her advice, and laid m yself down
a m o n g th e rest, as i f dead, to see how he w ould behave. T h e first
t h in g I heard w as him callin g for his pie. W h en she set it dow n
b e fo r e him , he swore it sm elt like sw ine’s fle s h ; but, know ing where
t o find the finger, she im m ediately turned it up— w hich fairly con
v in c e d him o f the contrary.
T h e pie o n ly served to sharpen his
a p p e tite , an d I heard him sharpen his knife, and saying he must have
a co llo p or two, for he was n ot near satisfied.
But what was m y
terror w hen I heard the giant groping am ong the bodies, and,
fan cyin g m yself, cut the h a lf o f m y hip off, and to o k it with him to
be roasted. Y o u m ay be certain I was in great p a in ; b ut the fear o f
bein g k ille d prevented m e from m aking any com plaint. H ow ever,
when he had eat all, h e began to drink hot liquors in great
abundance, so that in a short tim e he could not hold up his head,
but threw him self on a large creel he had m ade for the purpose, and
fell fast asleep. When ever I heard him snoring, bad as I was, I w en t
up a n d caused the w om an to bin d m y w ound with a han dkerchief p
and tak in g the gian t’s spit, I reddened it in the fire, and ran it
through the eye, but was not able to kill him. H ow ever, I left the
spit stickin g in his head and to o k to m y h e e ls ; but I soon found he
w as in pursuit o f me, although b lin d ; and, havin g an enchanted ring,
he threw it at me, and it fell on m y b ig toe and rem ained fastened to
it. T h e gian t then called to the ring, ‘ W here it was ? ’ and to m y great
surprise it m ade him answer, ‘ O n m y foot,’ and he, guided b y the same,
m ade a leap at m e— w hich I had the go o d lu ck to. observe, and
fo rtun ately escaped the danger.
H o w ever, I found running was o f
n o use in saving m e as long as I had the ring on m y f o o t ; so I to o k
m y sw ord and cut off* the toe it was fastened on, and threw both intO'
a large fish-pond that w as convenient. T h e giant called again to the
rin g , w hich, b y the pow er o f enchantm ent, alw ays m ade a n s w e r; b u t
h e , n o t kn ow in g what I had done, im agined it w as still on som e part
o f m e, and m ade a vio len t leap to seize m e— ^when he w ent into the
p o n d o ver head and ears and was drow ned.
N ow , Sir K n ig h t,”
said the T h ie f o f Sloan, “ you see w hat dangers I cam e through and
a lw a y s e s c a p e d ; but indeed I am lam e for w ant o f m y toe evers in c e .”
A n d n ow rem ains but one question to b e answ ered, viz. H o w is
th e B la ck T h ie f h im self to com e o ff?
T h is difficulty is solved in a
i 82
very dram atic w ay and with a sudden turn in th e narrative th a t is
v e ry w ild and curious.
“ M y lord and m aster,” says an o ld w om an that w as liste n in g a ll
the time, “ tliat story is but too true, as I w ell k n o w : fo r I am the very
woman that was in the gianfs castle, and you, my lord, the child that I
was to make into a pie; and this is the very m an that saved y o u r life,
w hich you m ay know b y the w ant o f your finger that w as ta k e n ofi^
as you have heard, to d eceive the gian t.”
T h a t fantastical w ay o f bearing testim ony to the previous ta le , b y
producing an old wom an w ho says the tale is n ot o n ly true, b u t sh e
was the very old wom an w ho lived in the gian t’s castle, is a lm o st a
stroke o f genius. It is fine to think that the sim ple chron icler fo u n d
it necessary to have a p ro o f for his story, and he was n o d o u b t p er
fectly contented with the p ro o f found.
“ T h e K n ig h t o f the G len , greatly surprised at w hat h e h a d h e ard
the old w'oman tell, and know ing he w anted his finger fi-om his ch ild
hood, began to understand that the story was true enough. ‘ A n d is
this m y dear d e liv e re r? ’ says he.
‘ O brave fellow , I n o t o n ly
pardon you all, but I will keep you with m y self w hile you l i v e ; w here
you shall feast like princes and have every attendan ce that I h ave
m yself.’ T h e y all returned thanks on their kn ees, and the B la ck
T h ie f told him the reason they attem j)ted to steal the steed o f bells,
an d the necessity they w’ere under o f go in g hom e. ‘ W e ll,’ says the
K n ig h t o f the G len , ‘ if that’s the case, I bestow you m y steed rather
than this brave fellow should d i e : so you m ay g o w hen y o u p le a s e :
o n ly rem em ber to call and see m e betim es, that w e m a y k n o w each
other w ell.’ T h e y prom ised they w ould, and w ith great j o y th e y set
o ff for the K in g their father s palace, and the B la ck T h ie f a lo n g w ith
them.
T h e w icked Q ueen was standing all this tim e on th e tow er,
and hearing the bells ringing at a great distan ce off, kn ew v e ry w e ll
it was the Princes com ing hom e, and the steed w ith them , a n d
through spite and vexation precipitated h erself from the to w e r a n d
was shattered to pieces. T h e three Princes lived h a p p y a n d w e ll
during their father’s reign, ahvays keep in g the B la ck T h ie f a lo n g w ith
th e m ; but how they did after the old K in g ’s death is n o t kn o w n ."
T h e n w e com e upon a story that exists in m an y a E u ro pean
language— o f the man cheatin g D e a t h ; then to the h isto ry o f th e
A p p ren tice T h ief, who o f course ch eated his m a s te rs : w liich, to o , is
a n old tale, and m ay h ave b e en to ld ve ry lik e ly a m o n g those Phoeni-
M ANUS (PMALAGHAN
183
d a n s w h o w ere the fathers o f the H ibern ian s, for w hom these tales
w ere devised .
A ve ry curious tale is there con cernin g M anus
O ’ M a lag h an an d the F a irie s :— “ In the parish o f A h o g h ill lived
M anu s O ’M alaghan. A s he was searchingfor a calf that had strayed^
he h eard m any peop le talking.
D raw in g near, he distinctly heard
them repeating, one after the other, ‘ G e t m e a horse, get m e a
h o r s e ; ’ a n d ‘ G e t m e a horse to o ,’ says M anus. M anus was instantly
m oun ted o n a steed, surrounded w ith a vast crow d, w ho gallo p ed off,
ta k in g p o o r M anus w ith them .
In a short time th ey suddenly
stop p ed in a large w ide street, asking M anus i f he kn ew where he
w as ? ‘ F aith ,’ says he, ‘ I do n ot.’ ‘ Y o u are in Spain,' said th ey.”
H e r e w e h ave again tlie w ild m ixture o f the positive and the
fan ciful. T h e chronicler is careful to tell us w hy M anus w ent out
s ea rch in g for a cal^ and this positiveness prodigiously increases the
re a d e r s w on der at the subsequent events. A n d the question and
a n sw e r o f the m ysterious horsem en is fine : “ D o n ’t you know w here
y o u a r e ? In Spain." A vague solution, such as one has o f occur
re n c e s in dream s som etim es.
T h e history o f R o b in the B lacksm ith is full o f these strange
fligh ts o f poetry. H e is follow ed about “ b y a little b o y in a green
j a c k e t ,” w ho perform s the m ost w ondrous feats o f the blacksm ith’s
a rt, as follow s :—
“ R o b in was asked to do som ething, w ho w isely shifted it, saying
h e w ou ld b e very sorry not to give the honour o f the first trick to his
lo rd sh ip ’s sm ith— at w hich the latter was called forth to the bellow s.
W h e n the fire w as w ell kin dled , to the great surprise o f all present, he
b le w a great show er o f w heat out o f the fire, w hich fell through a ll the
sh o p . T h e y then dem anded o f R o b in to try w hat he could do.
* P h o ! ’ said R o b in , as i f he thought nothing o f w hat w as done.
‘ C o m e ,’ said he to the boy, ‘ I think I show ed you som ething like
th a t* T h e b o y goes then to the bellow s and blew out a great flock
o f pigeons, w ho soon devoured all the grain and then disappeared.
“ T h e D u b lin sm ith, sorely vex ed that such a b o y should
o u td o him , go es a secon d tim e to the bellow s and blew a fine trout
o u t o f the hearth, w ho ju m p ed into a little river that was running b y
t h e shop-door and was seen n o m ore at that tim e.
“ R o b in then said to the bo y, ‘ C o m e, you m ust brin g us yon
tro u t b a c k again, to let the gen tlem en see w e can d o som ething.’
A w a y th e b o y goes an d b lew a large otter out o f the hearth, w h o
184
im m ediately leaped into the river and in a short tim e returned with
the trout in his m outh, and then disappeared. A ll present allowed
that it w as a fo lly to attem pt a com petition a n y further.”
T h e b o y in the green ja c k e t w as one “ o f a k in d o f small beings
called f a i r i e s a n d not a little does it add to the charm o f these wild
tales to feel, as one reads them , that the w riter m ust h a ve believed
in his heart a great deal o f w hat he told. Y o u see th e tremor as it
w ere, and a w ild lo o k o f the eyes, as the story-teller sits in his noA
and recites, and peers w istfully round lest the bein gs he talks of be
really at hand.
L e t us giv e a coup le o f the little tales entire. T h e y are not so
fanciful as those before m entioned, b u t o f the co m ic sort, and suited
to the first kin d o f cap acity m entioned b y the author in his preface.
IB o n a lb a n b fiiss J&eigfi&ours*
“ H u d d e n and D u d d en and D o n ald O ’N eary w ere n ear neigh^
bours in the baron y o f B allinconlig, and plou ghed w ith th ree bullocks;
b u t the two former, envyin g the present prosperity o f th e latter, deter
m ined to k ill his b u llo ck to p revent his farm bein g p rop erly cultivated
and laboured— that, go in g b a ck in the w orld, he m igh t b e induced to
sell his lands, w hich they m eant to get possession of. P o o r D onald,
finding his b u llo ck killed, im m ediately skin ned it, and throw in g the
skin o ver his shoulder, w ith the fleshy side out, set o ff to th e next
tow n with it, to dispose o f it to the best advantage. G o in g a lo n g the
ro ad a m agpie flew on the top o f the hide, and began p ick in g it,
chattering all the time. T h is b ird h ad b een taught to sp eak and
im itate the hum an vo ice, and D o n ald , thin kin g h e u n derstood som e
w ords it w as saying, put round his hand and caugh t ho ld o f i t
H a v in g
go t possession o f it, he put it under his great-coat, and so w ent o n to the
town. H a v in g sold the hide, he w en t into an in n to take a d ia m ;
and, follow ing the landlady into the cellar, h e ga ve the b ird a s q u e e z e
w hich caused it to chatter som e b ro k en accen ts that surprised h e r
ve ry m uch. ‘ What is that I hear ? ’ said she to D o n a ld : * I th in k it
is talk , and y et I do n ot understand* ‘ Indeed,* said D o n a ld , ‘ it is
a bird I h ave that tells m e everything, and I alw ays ca rry it w ith m e
to k n o w w hen there is an y danger. Faith,* says h e , * it says y o u
have far better liquor than you are giv in g me.* * T h a t is strange^’
said she, go in g to another cask o f better quality, an d a sk in g h im i f
I I U D D E X A X D D L 'D D E X .
he woiiKl sell the bird.
1S5
‘ I will,’ said D o n a l d , ‘ if I get e n o u g h for
i t ’ ‘ I w ill fill your hat w ith silver if you will leave it w ith m e/
Donald w as gla d to hear the news, and, taking the silver, set off,
rejoicing at his go o d luck. H e had n ot been lo n g hom e w hen he
met with H u d d en and D u dden . ‘ H a ! * said he, ‘ yo u thought yo u
did me a b a d turn, b ut you co u ld not h ave don e m e a b e t t e r : for
look here w h at I h ave go t for the h id e,’ show ing them the hatful o f
silver. ‘ Y o u n ev er saw such a dem and for hides in your life as there
is at p re se n t’ H u d d en and D u d d en that very night killed their
bullocks, and set out the n ext m orning to sell their hides. O n com in g
to the p lace th e y w ent to all the m erchants, but could o n ly g e t
a trifle for them . A t last th ey had to take w hat th ey co u ld get, and
came hom e in a great rage and vo w in g reven ge on poor D o n ald .
H e had a p retty go o d guess how m atters w ould turn out, and his bed
Being under the kitchen-w indow , he was afraid they w ou ld rob him ,
or perhaps k ill him w hen a s le e p ; and on that acco u n t, w hen he w as
going to b ed , he left his old m other in his bed, and la y dow n in her
place, w hich w as in the other side o f the house, and they, tak in g the
old woman for D o n ald , ch o k ed her in the bed ; but he m akin g som e
noise, they had to retreat and le a v e the m on ey behind them , w hich
grieved them very m uch.
H o w ev er, b y daybreak, D o n a ld g o t h is
mother on his b a ck , and carried her to town. Stopp in g at a w ell, h e
fixed his m other w ith her staff as if she was stoopin g for a d rin k,
and then w en t in to a public-house con ven ien t and called for a dram .
‘ I wish,’ said he to a w om an that stood near him, ‘ you w ould tell
my m other to co m e in. She is at yo n w ell trying to ge t a drink, an d
she is hard in h e a r in g : if she does not observe you, giv e h er a little
shake, and tell her that I w ant her.’ T h e w om an called her several
tim es, b u t she seem ed to tak e no n otice : at len gth she w ent to h er
a n d sh o o k her b y the arm ; but w hen she let her go again, sh e
tu m bled on her head into the w ell, and, as the w om an thought, w as
d r o w n e d She, in great fear and surprise at the acciden t, to ld D o n ald
w h at h ad happened. ‘ O m ercy,’ said he, ‘ w hat is this ? ’ H e ran
a n d p u lled her out o f the w ell, w eepin g and lam enting all the tim e,
a n d a ctin g in such a m anner that you w ould im agine that he had lost
b is senses. T h e w om an, on the other hand, was far w orse than
D o n a l d : for his g rie f w as o n ly feigned, but she im agined h erself t o
b e th e cause o f the o ld w om an’s death. T h e inhabitants o f the to w n ,
b e a rin g w h at h ad happened, agreed to m ake D o n ald up a go o d sum
i86
o f m on ey for his loss, as the a ccid en t hap pened in th eir p la c e ; and
D o n ald brought a greater sum hom e w ith him than h e go t fw the
m agpie. T h e y buried D o n ald ’s m o th e r; an d as so o n as he saw
H u d d en an d D u d d en , he show ed them the last purse o f money he
had g o t
‘ Y o u thought to k ill m e last night,’ said h e ; ‘ but it was
go o d for m e it happened on m y m other, for I g o t a ll th at puise Jar
her to m ake gunpow der.’
“ T h a t very night H u d d en and D u d d en k ille d their mothers, and
the n ext m orning set o ff w ith them to town. O n co m in g to the town
w ith their burden on their backs, th ey w en t up an d dow n dying;
‘ W ho w ill b u y o ld w ives for gunpow der ? ’ so that e ve ry one laughed
at them , and the bo ys at last clo d d ed them o u t o f th e place. They
then saw the cheat, and vow in g reven ge on D o n ald , buried the old
w om en and set o ff in pursuit o f him . C o m in g to his house, they
found him sitting at his breakfast, and seizing him, p ut him in a sadi,
and w ent to drown him in a river at som e distance. As they were
go in g alon g the highw ay they raised a hare, w hich th e y saw had brt
tliree feet, and, throw ing o ff the sack, ran after her, thinking By
appearance she ivould be easily taken. In their a bsen ce there can»
a drover that way, and hearing D o n ald singing in the sack, wondered
greatly w hat could be the m atter.
‘ WTiat is the reason,’ said he,
‘ that yo u are singing, and you confined ? ’
‘ O h , I am going to
heaven ,’ said D o n a ld ; ‘ an d in a short tim e I e x p e c t to b e free from
trouble.’ ‘ O h, dear,’ said the drover, ‘ w hat w ill I g iv e yo u i f you let
m e to your p lace ? ’ ‘ In d e ed I d o n ot kn o w ,’ said h e : * it w ou ld take
a go o d sum.’ ‘ I have n o t m uch m on ey,’ said the d r o v e r ; ‘ but I
have tw en ty head o f fine cattle, w hich I w ill g^ve yo u to exchange
places w ith m e.’ ‘ W ell, w ell,’ says D o n ald , ‘ I don ’t ca re i f I should:
loose the sack and I w ill com e out.’ In a m om ent th e drover
liberated him , and w ent into the sack h im se lf: a n d D o n a ld drove
hom e the fine heifers and left them in his pasture.
“ H u d d en and D u d d en h avin g cau gh t th e hare, return ed, and
gettin g the sack on one o f their b a ck s, carried D o n a ld , a s they
thought, to the river, and threw him in, w here h e im m e d iate ly »a«kT h e y then m arched hom e, in tend ing to ta k e im m ediate possessioB
o f D o n a ld ’s p ro p erty ; b u t how great w as th eir surprise, w h e n they
found him safe at hom e before them , w ith such a f o e herd oif
ca ttle , w hereas th ey kn ew he h ad n on e before ? ‘ D o n a ld ,’ sa id .diey,
‘ w h at is a ll t h i s !
W e thought y o u w ere drow ned, a n d yet yon aie
THE SPAEM AN.
187
ere before u s?* ‘ A h ! * said he, ‘ if I h ad but help alon g w ith m e
hen you threw m e in, it w ou ld h ave b een the b est jo b e ve r I m et
ith ; for o f a ll the sight o f cattle and go ld that ever w as seen, is
liere, and no o n e to ow n them ; b u t I w as n o t a b le to m anage m ore
lian what yo u see, and I co u ld show yo u the sp ot w here yo u m ight
et hundreds.’ T h e y b o th swore th ey w ou ld b e his friends, and
)onald a cco rd in gly led them to a very deep part o f the river, and
iftmg up a ston e, ‘ N o w ,’ said he, ‘ w atch this,’ throw ing it into the
tream. ‘ T h e re is the very p lace, and g o in, one o f you, first, and if
ou want h elp yo u h ave n oth ing to d o but c a ll.’ H u d d en ju m p in g
n, and sin k in g to the bottom , rose up again, and m akin g a b u b b lin g
loise as those d o that are drow ning, seem ed trying to speak b ut co u ld
lot ‘ W h at is that he is sayin g n ow ? ’ says D u dden . ‘ F a ith ,’ says
)onald, ‘ h e is callin g for h elp — don ’t yo u hear h im ?
Stand
ibout,’ con tin ued he, running b a ck , ‘ till I leap in. I kn o w how to do
letter than a n y o f y o u .’ D u d d en , to have the ad van tage o f him ,
mnped in o ff the bank, and w as drow ned alon g w ith H u d d en .
his was the en d o f H u d d en and D u d d en .”
And
£paman.
A POOR m an in the N o rth o f Irelan d w as under the n ecessity
f selling his co w to help to support liis family.
H a vin g sold his
)w, he w ent into an inn and called for som e liquor. H a v in g drunk
retty heartily, he fell asleep, and w hen he aw oke he found he had
jen robbed o f his m oney. P o o r R o g e r was at a loss to kn ow how
a c t ; and, as is often the case, w hen the landlord found that his
oney w as go n e, he turned him out o f doors. T h e night was
trem ely dark, and the p o or m an was com p elled to take up his
dging in an old uninhabited house at the end o f the town.
“ R o g e r had n ot rem ained long here until he was surprised b y
e n oise o f three m en, w hom he observed m akin g a hole, and, havin g
p o site d som ething therein, closing it carefully up again and then
ling aw ay. T h e n ext m orning, as R o g e r was w alkin g towards the
w n, h e heard that a cloth-shop had been robbed to a great am ount,
id that a rew ard o f thirty p ounds w as offered to an y person w ho
luld d isco ve r the thieves. T h is was jo yfu l new s to R o g e r, w ho
co llecte d w hat he had been w itness to the n ight before. H e
« o rd in g ly w en t to the shop and told the gen tlem an that for the
i88
TH E IRISH SK E T C H BOOK.
reward he w ould reco ver the goods, and secure the robbers, provided
h e go t six stout m en to attend him .
A ll w hich w as tlumkfully
granted him.
“ A t night R o g e r and his m en co n cealed them selves in the M
house, and in a short tim e after the robbers cam e to th e spot for the
purpose o f rem oving their b o o t y ; but th e y w ere in stantly seized and
carried into the town prisoners, w ith the go o ds. R o g e r received
the reward and returned hom e, w ell satisfied w ith his good luck
N o t m any days after, it w as noised over the co u n try th at this robbciy
w as discovered b y the help o f one o f the best Spaem en to b e found—
insom uch that it reached the ears o f a w orthy gen tlem an o f the
co u n ty o f D erry, w ho m ade strict inquiry to find him o u t
Having
a t length d iscovered his abode, he sen t for R o ger, and to ld him he
w as every d a y losing som e valuable article, and as h e w as famed lor
discoverin g lost things, if he could find out the sam e, he should be
h andsom ely rew arded. P o o r R o g e r w as put to a stand, n o t knowing
w hat answ er to m ake, as he had n ot the sm allest kn ow ledge o f die
like.
But recoverin g h im self a little, he resolved to humour the
j o k e ; and, thinking he w ould m ake a go o d dinner an d some drink
o f it, told the gentlem an he w ould try w hat h e could d o , b ut that he
m ust have a room to h im self for three hours, during which time
he must have three bottles o f strong ale and his dinner. A ll udiiA
the gentlem an told him he should have. N o sooner w as it made
kn ow n that the Spaem an w as in the house than the servants were aD
in confusion, w-ishing to kn ow w hat w ould b e said.
“ A s soon as R o g e r had taken his dinner, h e w as show n into an
elegant room , w here the gentlem an sen t him a quart o f ale b y the
butler.
N o sooner had he set dow n the a le than R o g e r said,
‘ T h e re com es one o f them ’ (intim ating the bargain h e h ad made
a
>vith the gentlem an for the three quarts), w hich the b u tle r to o k in
wTong light and im agined it w as him self. H e w en t a w a y in great
confusion and told his wife. ‘ P o o r fool,’ said she, ‘ the fear makes
yo u think it is yo u he m e a n s; b u t I w ill atten d in yo u r p la ^
and hear w hat h e w ill say to m e.’
A cco rd in g ly she carried the
secon d q u a r t : but no sooner had she op en ed the d o o r tlian R oger
cried, ‘ T h e re com es tw o o f them .’ T h e w om an, n o less surprised
than her husband, told him the Spaem an k n ew h er to o . ‘ A n d wfaat
will w e d o ? ’ said he. ‘ W e w ill b e hanged.* ‘ I w ill tell y o u w hat w e
must d o ,’ said s h e : ‘ w e must send the groom th e n ext t im e ; an d i f he
TH E SPAEM AN.
189
kn ow n , w e must offer him a go o d sum n ot to d isco ver on us.’ T h e
tier w en t to W illiam and to ld him the w hole story, and that h e
1st g o n ext to see w hat the Spaem an w ould say to him, telling him at
e sam e tim e w hat to d o in case he was kn ow n also. W hen the hour
IS expired, W illiam was sent with the third quart o f ale— w hich
ben R o g e r observed, he cried out, ‘ T h e re is the third and last o f
em ! ’ A t w hich the groom chan ged colour, and told him * that if h e
ould not discover on them , they would show him w here the go o ds
ere all co n cea led a n d giv e him five pounds besides.* R o g er, not
little surprised at the d isco very he had m ade, told him ‘ i f he
covered the goods, h e w ould follow them no further.*
“ B y this tim e the gen tlem an called R o g e r to kn o w ho w he had
icceeded.
as gone.’
H e told him ‘ he could find the goods, but that the th ief
‘ I w ill be w ell satisfied,* said he, ‘ with the goods, for
Dme o f them are very valuable.* ‘ L e t the butler co m e alon g w ith
le, and the w hole shall be recovered.’ R o g e r was acco rd in gly conlucted to the b a ck o f the stables, where the articles were con cealed,—
uch as silver cups, spoons, bowls, kn ives, forks, and a variety of
)ther articles o f great value.
“ \Vhen the supposed Spaem an brought b a ck the stolen goods,
he gentlem an w as so highly pleased w ith R o g e r that he insisted on
lis remaining w ith him always, as he supposed he w ould b e perfectly
iafc as lo n g as he w as about his house. R o g e r gla d ly em braced
he offer, and in a few days to o k possession o f a p iece o f land
irhich the gentlem an had given to him in consideration o f his great
ibilities.
“ Som e tim e after this the gentlem an was relating to a large
rompany the discovery R o g er had m ade, and that he could tell
aything. O n e o f the gentlem en said he w ould dress a dish o f m eat,
ind bet fifty pounds that he could n ot tell w hat w as in it, though he
rould allo w him to taste i t
T h e b et b ein g taken and the dish
Iressed, the gentlem an sent for R o g er and told him the b et that w as
lepending on him. P o o r R o g e r did n ot kn ow w hat to do ; but at last
it consented to the trial. T h e dish bein g produced, he tasted it,
mt could n ot tell w hat it was. A t last, seeing he was fairly b eat, he
aid, ‘ G entlem en, it is fo lly to t a l k ; the fox m ay run a w hile, but he
5 caught a t last,*— allow ing w ith him self that he w as found o u t
rhe gen tlem an that had m ade the b et then confessed that it was
. fox he h ad dressed in the d is h : at w hich th ey a ll shouted out in
190
favour o f the Spaem an,— p articularly his m aster, w h o h ad m ore
fidence in him than ever.
“ R o g e r then w en t hom e, and so fam ous did h e becom e,
no one dared tak e anythin g but w hat b e lo n ge d to them , fearing
the Sp aem an w ou ld d isco ver on them .”
A n d so w e shut up the H ed ge-sch o o l L ibrary, an d clo se the
w ay N igh ts’ E n tertainm ents.
T h e y are n ot quite so gentc
A lm a ck ’s to b e s u r e ; but m any a la d y w ho has h er opera-h
L o n d o n has listen ed to a piper in Irela n d .
A p ro p o s o f pipers, here is a yo u n g on e that I caugh t and a
to-day.
H e w as p ad d lin g in the m ud, shining in th e sun carelc
his rays, and p layin g his little tin m usic as h ap p y as M r. C o o k e
his oboe.
Perh aps the a b ove verses and tales are n ot u n like m y little G j
m usician. T h e y are grotesque and r u g g e d ; b ut th ey are pretti
innocent-hearted too ; and as such, p o lite p erso n s.m ay deign to
at them for o n ce in a w ay. W h ile w e h a ve Sign or C o sta in a
n eck clo th o rderin g opera-bands to p lay for us the m usic o f Don*
w hich is n ot o n ly sublim e b u t g e n te e l: o f course such p o o r
operatives as he w ho plays the wind-instrum ent yo n d er c
exp ect to be heard often. B ut is n ot this G a lw a y ? an d h o w
G alw ay from the H ayraarket ?
(
191
CH APTER
)
X V I I.
FROM GALWAY TO BALLINAHINCH.
T he C lifden car, w hich carries the D u b lin letters into the heart o f
Connemara, con ducts the passenger over one o f the m ost w ild and
beautiful districts that it is ever the fortune o f a traveller to e x a m in e ;
and I could n o t help thinking, as w e passed through it, at h ow m uch
pains and exp en se honest E n glish co ckn eys are to g o and lo o k after
natural beauties far inferior, in countries w hich, though m ore distant,
are not a w hit m ore strange than this one. N o doubt, ere long, w hen
people kn o w ho w easy the task is, the rush o f L o n d o n tourism w ill
come this w ay : and I shall b e very happy i f these pages shall b e ab le
to awaken in one bosom beating in T o o le y Screet or the T e m p le the
desire to travel tow ards Irelan d n ex t year.
After lea v in g the quaint old tow n behind us, and ascen ding one
or two sm all em inences to the north-wesbvard, the traveller, from the
car, gets a view o f the w ide sheet o f L ou gh C orrib shining in the sun,
as we saw it, w ith its lo w dark banks stretching round it. I f the view
is gloom y, at least it is characteristic : nor are w e d elayed b y it very
km g; for though the la k e stretches northw ards into the very m idst o f
the J oyce coun try, (and is there in the close neighbourhood o f another
huge lake, L o u g h M ask, w hich again is near to another sheet o f w ater,)
yet from this road henceforth, after keep in g com pan y with it for som e
five m iles, w e o n ly g e t occasion al view s o f it, passing o ver hills and
through trees, b y m any rivers and sm aller lakes, w hich are depend en t
upon that o f Corrib. G en tlem en ’s seats, on the road from G alw ay to
M o y cu lle n , are scattered in great profusion. Perhaps there is grass
gro w in g on the gravel-w alk, and the iron gates o f the tum ble-down
o ld lo d g e s are rather r ic k e t y ; but, for all that, tlie p laces lo o k com
fo rtable, hospitable, and spacious. A s for tlie shabbiness and w ant
o f finish here and there, the E n glish eye grow s quite accustom ed to
it in a m o n th ; and I find the b ad con dition o f the G alw ay houses b y
no m ean s so painful as that o f the p laces near D u blin . A t som e o f
the lo d ges, as w e pass, the m ail-caraian, w ith a w arning shout, flings
a b a g o f letters.
I saw a little party lo o k in g at one w hich la y there
192
TH E IRISH SK E T C H B O O K
in the road crying, “ C o m e, tak e m e ! ” b u t n o b o d y cares to steal a bag
o f letters in this country, I suppose, an d the carm an d ro v e on without
an y alarm.
T w o days afterw ards a gen tlem an w ith w hom
I wdsm
com p an y left on a ro ck his b o o k o f fish in g-flies; a n d I can assure
yo u there was a very different feelin g expressed a b o u t the safety
o f fha/.
In the first part o f the jo u rn ey, the n eigh bo u rh o od o f the load
seem ed to be as populous as in other parts o f th e c o u n tr y : troops
o f red-petticoated peasantry peerin g from their sto n e -ca b in s; yelling
children follow ing the car, and cryin g, “ L ash , la s h ! ” I t w as Sunday,
and you w ould sec m any a w hite ch ap el am ong th e gree n bare plains
to the right o f the road, the court-yard blacken ed w ith a swarm of
cloaks. T h e service seem s to con tin ue (on the p art o f the people)
all day. T ro o p s o f peop le issuing from the ch ap el m et us at Moycullen ; and ten m iles further on, at O ughterard, their devotions dH
n ot yet seem to b e concluded.
A m ore beautiful village can scarcely b e seen than this. It stands
upon L o u gh C orrib, the banks o f w hich are here, fo r o n ce at least,
picturesque and ro m a n tic : and a p retty river, the F eo g h , comes
rushing over rocks and b y w oods until it passes the tow n and meets
the lake. Som e pretty buildings in the village stan d on each bank
o f this s tre a m : a R om an C a th o lic chap el w ith a curate’s n ea t lodge; a
little church on one side o f it, a fine court-house o f g ra y stone on
the other. A n d here it is that w e g e t into the fam ous district of
Connem ara, so celebrated in Irish stories, so m ysterious to th e London
tourist.
“ It presents itself,” says the G uide-bo ok , “ un der every
possible com bin ation o f heathy m oor, b o g, la k e, an d mountaioE x ten sive m ossy plains and w ild pastoral valleys lie embosomed
am ong the m ountains, and support num erous herds o f cattle and
horses, for w hich the district has been lo n g celebrated. T h e se wild
solitudes, w hich o ccu p y b y far the greater part o f the cen tre o f the
countr>', are held b y a hardy and ancient ra ce o f grazin g fanners, who
live in a very prim itive state, and, gen erally speaking, till little beyond
w hat supplies their im m ediate wants.
F o r th e first ten miles the
countr)' is com p aratively o p e n ; an d the m ountains on th e left, which
are n ot o f great elevation, can b e d istin ctly traced as th e y rise along
the edge o f tlie h eath y plain.
“ O ur road continues alon g the F eo g h river, w hich expands itsdf
in to several con siderable lakes, and at five m iles from Oughterard we
OUGIITERARD.
.
193
ach L o u gh Bofin, w hich the road also skirts. P assing in succession
ough-a-Preaghan, the lakes o f A nderran and Shindella, at ten m iles
om O ugh terard w e reach Slym e and L y n n ’s In n , or H alf-w ay
[ouse, w hich is near the shore o f L oughon ard. N ow , as we advan ce
wards th e group o f B inabola, or the I ’w elve Pins, the m ost gigan tic
:enery is disp layed .”
But the b est guide-book that ever w as written cann ot set the view
ffore the m ind’s eye o f the reader, and I w on’t attem pt to pile up
ig words in p lace o f these wild m ountains, o ver w hich the clouds as
ley passed, or the sunshine as it w ent and cam e, cast every variety
■tint, light, and s h a d o w ; nor can it be exp ected that long, level
ntences, how'ever sm ooth and shining, can be m ade to pass as
presentations o f those calm lakes b y w hich we took our way. A ll
lecan d o is to lay down the pen and ruminate, and cry, “ B eau tifu l!”
ice more ; and to the reader say, “ C o m e and see ”
Wild an d w ide as the prospect around us is, it has som ehow a
ndly, friendly l o o k ; differing in this from the fierce loneliness o f
1
me similar scenes in W ales that I have view ed. R a g g ed wom en
id children com e out o f rude stone-huts to see the car as it passes,
it it is im possible for the p en cil to give due raggedness to the rags,
to co n vey a certain picturesque m ellow ness o f colour that the
nnents assum e. T h e sexes, with regard to rainient, do n ot seem to
; particular. T h e re were m any boys on the road in the national
d petticoat, havin g no other co verin g for their lean brow n legs.
for shoes, the w om en eschew them alm ost e n tire ly ; and I saw a
asant tru dgin g from mass in a handsom e scarlet cloak, a fine blue)th gow n, tq m ed up to show a new lining o f the sam e colour, and
5
petticoat quite w hite and n eat— in a dress o f w hich the cost m ust
ve been at least 10 /.; and her husband w alked in front carrying
r shoes and stockings.
The road had con ducted us for m iles through the vast property
the gen tlem an to w hose house I was bound, M r. M artin, the
ember for the co u n ty; and the last and prettiest part o f the journ ey
s round the L a k e o f Ballinahinch, with tall m ountains rising immeitely a b ove us on the right, pleasant w oody hills on the opposite
e o f the lake, w ith the roofs o f the houses rising above the t r e e s ;
d in an island in the m idst o f the w ater a ruined old castle cast
long w hite reflection into the blue waters w here it lay. A landîte used to live in that castle, one o f the peasants told me, in the
13
194
th e
IRISH SK E TC H BOOK.
tim e o f “ O liver C rom w ell.”
A n d a fine fastness it w as for a robber,
t r u ly ; for there was no road through these w ild coun tries in his time
— nay, only thirty years since, this la k e w as a t three days* distance o f
G alw ay. T h e n com es the question, W h at, in a co u n try where there
w ere no roads and no travellers, and w here the in habitants have been
w retch edly p oor from tim e im m em orial,— w hat w as there fo r the landpirate to rob ? B ut let us n ot b e too curious abou t tim es so early as
those o f O liver Crom w ell. I have heard the nam e m any times from
the Irish peasant, w ho still has an aw e o f the grim , resolute Protector.
T h e builder o f B allinahinch H o u se has p laced it to command a
view o f a p retty m elan choly river that runs b y it, tlirough m any green
flats and picturesque ro ck y g ro u n d s ; b u t fi-om the la k e it is scarcdj
visible. A n d so, in like m anner, I fear it m ust rem ain invisible to the
reader too, with all its kin d inm ates, and frank, cord ial hospitality;
unless he m ay take a fancy to visit G alw ay him self, w hen, as I can
vouch, a very small pretext w ill m ake him en jo y both.
It will, how ever, be only a sm all breach o f con fiden ce to say that
the m ajor-dom o o f the establishm ent (who has adopted accurately the
vo ice and m anner o f his master, w ith a severe d ign ity o f his own
w hich is quite original,) ordered m e on go in g to b e d “ n ot to move
in the m orning till he called m e,” at the sam e tim e expressing a
hearty hope that I should “ w ant nothing m ore that evenin g." Who
w ould dare, after such perem ptory orders, not to fall asleep imIn^
diately, and in this w ay disturb the repose o f M r. J — n M - l l - y ?
T h ere m ay be m any com parisons draw n betw een English and
Irish gentlem en’s h o u s e s ; but perhaps the m ost strikin g point of
difference betw een the tw o is the im m ense follow in g o f the Irish
house, such as w ould m ake an E n glish housekeep er cra zy almost
T h ree com fortable, w ell-clothed, good-hum oured fellow s w alked down
with me from the car, persisting in carrying on e a b a g, another a
sketching-stool, and so on. W alkin g abou t the prem ises in the morn
ing, sundry others w ere visible in the court-yard and n ear the kitchendoor. In the grounds a gentlem an, b y nam e M r. M arcu s C -r r ,
discoursing to m e regarding the p lace, the planting, th e fish, the
grouse, and the M a s te r; bein g him self, doubtless, one o f th e irregulars
o f the house. A s for maids, there w ere half-a-score o f them skurrying
about the house; and I am not asham ed to confess that som e o f Aem
w ere exceed in gly good-looking. A n d if I m ight venture to say a word
m ore, it w ould b e respecting C on nem ara b re a k fe s ts ; b u t this would
CLIFDEN.
195
ire and flagrant breach o f c o n fid e n c e : and, to be sure, the
;re ju st as good.
* the days o f m y three days’ visit w as to b e d evo ted to the
1 as a p arty had been arranged fo r the second d a y after m y
iras g la d to take advantage o f the society o f a gentlem an
th e house, and ride w ith him to the n eighbouring tow n o f
ie thither from Ballinahinch is surprisingly b e a u tifu l; and
:end the high ground from the tw o or three rude stone-huts
the entrance-gates o f the house, there are view s o f the lakes
rrounding coun try w hich the best parts *of K illa m e y do n ot
thin k ; although the C on nem ara lakes do not possess the
o f w ood w hich belon gs to the fam ous K e rr y landscape,
j cultivation o f the coun try is o n ly in its infancy as yet, and
D see how vast its resources are, and w hat capital and cultid o for it. In the green patches am ong the rocks, and on the
iides, w herever crops w ere grown, they flo u rish e d ; p len ty
w ood is springing up in various p la ce s; and there is n o end
le planter m ay do, and to w hat time and care m ay effect,
ge-road to C lifd en is but ten years o l d : as it has brought
: o f com m unication into the country, the com m erce w ill
follow i t ; and in fact, in go in g through the w hole kingdom ,
lut be struck w ith the idea that n ot one hundredth part o f
ities are y et brought into action, or even know n perhaps,
y the easy and certain progress o f time, Irelan d w ill be poor
>longer.
stance, ive rode b y a. vast green plain, skirting a lake and
li is n ow iiseless alm ost for pasture, and w hich a little drainivert into thousands o f acres o f rich productive land. Stream s
f w ater dash b y everyw here— they have only to utilise this
jr for m ills and factories— and hard b y are som e o f the finest
le w orld, where ships can deliver and receive foreign and
luce. A t R oun dstone especially, w here a little tow n has
ed, the b a y is said to be unexam pled for size, depth, and
id the G overn m en t is now , through the rocks and hills on
shore, cutting a coast-road to Bunown, the m ost w esterly
innem ara, w hen ce there is another go o d road to C lifden.
2 charges w hich the “ R epealers ” bring against the U n ion ,
d in clude at least t h is : they w ould n ever h ave had these
196
THE IRISH SK E TC H BOOK.'
roads but for the U n io n : roads w hich are as m uch a t th e chaige of
the L on d o n tax-payer as o f the m ost ill-used M ilesian in Connaught
A string o f sm all lakes follo w the road to C lifd en , w ith mountains
on the right o f the traveller for th e c h ie f part o f the w ay. A few
figures at w ork in the bog-lands, a red p ettico at p assin g here and
there, a go at or tw o brow sing am o n g the stones, o r a troop of
ragged w hitey-brow n children w ho cam e out to g a ze a t th e car, form
the ch ie f so ciety on the road. T h e first house at th e entrance to
C lifden is a gigan tic poor-house— tall, la ig e , u gly, com fortable; it
com m ands the tow n, and lo o ks alm ost as b ig as e v e ry one of the
houses therein. T h e town its e lf is b u t o f a few y ears’ date, and
seem s to thrive in its sm all w ay. C lifd en C a stle is a fine chftteau in
the neighbourhood, and belon gs to another ow ner o f im m ense lands
in G alw ay— M r. D ’A rcy.
H e re a drive was proposed alon g the coast to B unow n, and I was
glad to see som e m ore o f the country, and its character. Nothing
can be wilder. W e passed little la k e after lake, ly in g a few furlongs
inwards from the shore. T h e re w ere rocks everyw h ere, som e patches
o f cultivated land here and there, n or w as there a n y w an t o f inhabi
tants alon g this savage coast.
T h e re w ere num erous cottages, if
cottages they m ay be called, an d w om en, and ab ove all, children in
plenty.
H ere is one o f tlie f o m e r — her attitude a s she stood
A COUNTRY HOUSE IN THE FA R W E ST
197
azin g at the car.
T o d ep ict the m ultiplicity o f her rags w ould
equire a m onth’s study.
A t len gth w e cam e in sight o f a .h a lf-b u ilt edifice w hich is
p p ro ach ed b y a ro ck y , dism al, gray road, gu arded b y tw'o or three
►roken gates, against w hich ro ck s and stones w ere piled, w hich w ere
0 b e rem o ved to g iv e an entrance to our car. T h e gates w ere
lo sed so laboriously, I presum e, to prevent the egress o f a single
Jack con su m p tive pig, far go n e in the fam ily-way — a teem ing
k eleto n — that w as crop p in g the thin dry grass that grew upon a
oun d hill w hich rises behind this m ost dism al castle o f Bunown.
I f th e traveller o n ly seeks for strange sights, this p lace w ill rep ay
lis curiosity. Such a dism al house is n ot to be seen in all E n gla n d :
>r, perhaps, such a dism al situation. T h e sea lies before and behind ;
ind on each side, likew ise, are ro ck s and copper-coloured m eadow s,
)y w hich a few trees have m ade an attem pt to grow.
T h e ow ner o f
he house had, how ever, begun to add to i t ; and there, unfinished, is
1 w hole apparatus o f turrets, and staring raw stone and m ortar, and
iresh ruinous carpenters’ wôrk. A n d then the court-yard !— tum blediown out-houses, staring em pty pointed w indow s, and new-sm eared
plaster crack in g from the w alls— a b la ck heap o f turf, a m ouldy pump,
a wretched old coal-skuttle, em ptily sunning itself in the m idst o f this
cheerful s c e n e ! T h e re was an old G o rgo n w ho kep t the place, an d
vrho was in perfect unison w ith i t : V en u s herself w ould becom e
bearded, blear-eyed, and haggard, if left to b e the housekeep er o f
this dreary place.
In the house w-as a com fortable parlour, inhabited b y the priest
^ho has the painful charge o f the d istrict
H ere w ere his b o o ks and
his breviaries, his reading-desk with the cross engraved upon it, and
his portrait o f D an iel O ’C o n n ell the L ib era to r to grace the w alls o f
lonely cell. T h e re was a dead crane hanging at the d o o r on a
: his red fish-like eyes w ere staring open, and his eager grinning
A rifle-ball had passed through his body. A n d this was doubtless
h e only gam e about the p l a c e ; for w e saw the sportsm an w'ho
”^ d k illed the bird hunting vain ly up the round hill for other
for pow der.
T h is gentlem an had had go o d sport, he said,
^ôoting seals upon a neighbouring island, four o f w hich anim als he
W slain.
Mounting up the round hill, we had a view of the Sline Lights—
the most westerly point in Ireland.
198
H e re too w as a ruined sort o f sum m er-house, d e d icate d “ Deo
W h en these ligh ts w ere p u t up, I am told
H ib e r n le L ib e r a to r i.”
the proprietor o f Bunow n was recom m ended to a p p ly fo r compensa
tion to Parliam ent, inasm uch as there w ou ld b e n o m ore ivrecks on
the c o a s t : from w hich branch o f co m m erce th e inhabitants o f the
district used form erly to derive a considerable profit. Betw een these
Sline L igh ts and A m erica n othing lies b u t the A tla n tic. It was
beautifully blue and bright on this day, and the sk y alm ost cloudless;
but I think the brightness o n ly m ade the scen e m ore dism al, it being
o f that order o f beauties w hich cann ot b ear the full ligh t, b u t require
a cloud or a curtain to set them o ff to advantage, A p retty stoiy
was told m e b y the gentlem an w ho had k ille d the seals. T h e place
w here he had been staying for sport w as alm ost as lo n e ly as this
Bunowm, and inhabited b y a priest too— a young, lively, well-educated
man. “ W hen I cam e here first,” the priest said,
criedfo r two daysd"
but aftenvards he grew to like the p lace exceed in gly, his w hole heart
b e in g directed towards it, his chapel, and his cure. W h o would not
honour such m issionaries— the virtues they silen tly practise, and the
doctrines th ey p re a ch ? A fte r hearing that story, I th in k Bunown
lo o k ed not quite so dism al, as it is inhabited, th e y say, b y sodi
another character. W h at a p ity it is that Joh n T u a m , in the ncrt
co u n ty o f M ayo, could n ot find such another h erm itage to lean
m odesty in, and forget his G raceship, his L ordship , a n d the sham
titles b y w hich he sets such store.
A m oon as round and bright as an y m oon that e ver shone, and
rid in g in a sky perfectly cloudless, ga ve us a g o o d prom ise o f a fine
d a y for the m orrow, w hich was to b e d e vo ted to th e la k es in the
n eighbourhood o f B a llin a h in ch : one o f w hich, L o u g h In a, is said to
be o f exceed in g beauty.
B ut no m an ca n sp eculate upon Indi
w eather. I h ave seen a d ay beginn in g w ith torrents o f rain that
lo o ked as if a deluge w as a t hand, clear up in a few m in utes, without
an y reason, and against th e prognostications o f th e glass and all
other w eather-prophets.
So in lik e m anner, after th e a s to n ish in g
fine night, there cam e a villanous dark d a y ; w hich, how ever, did not
set in fairly for rain, until w e w ere an hour o n our jo u rn e y, with ^
co u p le o f stout boatm en row ing us o ver B allin ahin ch L a k e .
Beiogr
how ever, thus fairly started, th e w ater began to co m e dow n, not io
torrents certainly, b ut in that steady, creepin g, insinuatm g mirtf
o f w hich w e scarce k n o w the lu xu ry in E n g la n d ; a n d w hkfa, I m
®
FLY-FISHING.
199
bound to say, w ill w et a m an’s ja c k e t as satisfactorily as a cataract
would do.
It w as ju s t such an o th er d a y as that o f the fam ous stag-hunt at
Killamey, in a word ; and as, in the first instance, w e w ent to see
the deer k ille d , and saw n othing thereof, so, in the second case, w e
went to see the landscape w ith precisely the sam e go o d fortune. T h e
mountains co vered their m odest beauties in im penetrable veils
of clouds; an d the o n ly con solation to the bo at’s crew was, that it
was a rem arkably good
d a y for trout-fishing— ^which am usem ent
some p eop le are said to prefer to the exam ination o f landscapes,
however beautiful.
0
you w h o laboriously throw flies in E n glish rivers, and catch, at
the expiration o f a hard d ay’s w alking, casting, and w ading, tw o or
three feeble little brow n trouts o f tw o or three ounces in w eight, how
would you rejo ice to have but an hour’s sport in D erryclear or Ballinahinch; w here you have but to cast, and lo ! a b ig trout springs at
your fly, and, after m aking a vain struggling, splashing, and p lun ging
for a w hile, is in fallibly landed in the n et and thence into the boat.
The single rod in the b o at caugh t enough fish in an hour to feast
fte crew, consisting o f five persons, and the fam ily o f a . herd o f
Mr. M artin’s, w ho has a pretty cottage on D erryclear L ak e, inhabited
by a cow and its calf, a score o f fowls, and I d o n ’t know how m any
sons and daughters.
H aving caugh t enough trout to satisfy any m oderate appetite, like
true sportsm en the gentlem en on board our boat becam e eager to
hook a salm on.
H a d th ey h ooked a few salm on, no doubt they
would have trolled for w hales, or for a m ermaid ; one o f w hich finny
beauties the waterm an swore he had seen on the shore o f D erryclear—
be with Jim M ullen b ein g ab ove on a rock, the m erm aid on the shore
directly b en eath them , visible to the m iddle, and as usual “ rackin g
ber hair.” I t w as fair hair, the boatm an s a id ; and he appeared as
convinced o f the existen ce o f the m erm aid as he was o f the trout just
landed in th e b o a t
In regard o f m erm aids, there is a gentlem an livin g near K illa la
®ay, whose nam e w as m entioned to m e, and w ho declares solem nly
Ibat one d ay, shooting on the sands there, he saw a mermaid, and
determined to try her w ith a s h o t So he drew the sm all charge from
bis gun an d lo ad ed it w ith ball— ^that he alw ays had b y him for sealsbooting— fired, an d hit the m erm aid through the b re a s t
The
200
THE IRISH SK ETCH B O O K
screams and moans of the creature— Avhose person he describes most
accurate!3
'— Avere the most horrible, heart-rending noises that he ever,
he said, heard; and not only were tliey heard by liim, but by
the fishermen along tlie coast, who were furiously angty against
Mn A
n, becavise, they said, the in jury don e to the mermaid
would cause her to driA e all the lish away from the bay for yean to
come.
But Ave did not. to m y disappointm ent, catch a glim p se o f one of
these interesting beings, nor o f the great sea-horse w hich is said to
inhabit these waters, nor o f an y fairies (o f w hom the stroke-oar,
M n M arcus, told us not to speak, for they didn 't lik e bein’ spoken
o f ) ; nor even o f a salm on, though the fishermen p ro d u ced the inost
tem pting tlies. d^hc o n ly animal o f an y size that w as visible we saw
while lying by a SAvift black river that com es ju m p in g with innu
m erable little Avaves into D erryclcar, a n d Avherc tbe salmon are
especially siifTered to “ stand : ” this anim al was an e a g l e ^ a real wild
e a g le , Avith grey Avings and a white head and b e ll y : it swept round
us, witiiin gun-sliot reacli, once or nvice, through the leaden sky, and
then .settled on a grey ro ck and began to scream its shrill, ghastly
aquiline note.
The attempts on ilie salmon having failed, the rain continuing (o
fall steadily, the herd’s cottage before named wos resorted t o : when
Marcus, the boatman, commenced forthwith to gut the fish, and
taking do\An some charred turf-ashes from the blazing fir^ on which
about a hundredweight of potatoes were boding, he— Marcus— pro
ceeded to grill on the floor some of the trout, which we aftemrards
ate Avith immeasurable satisfaction.
They were such trouts as, when
once tasted, remain for ever in the recollection o f a commonly
grateful mind— rich, flaky, creamy, full oi flavour. A Parisian
f/hjftd wouhl have paid ten francs for the smallest cooleat among them;
and, when transported to his capital, hoAv different in flavour would
they have been!— how inferior to what they were as Ave dcATOured
them, fresh from the fresh Avaters of the lake, and jerked as it were
from the AA-ater to the gridiron! The world had not had time to spoil
those innocent beings before they Avcre gobbled up with pepper and
salt, and missed, no doubt, by their friends. I should like to know
more of their ^^sctT But enough of this : my feelings OArer^wer me :
suffice it to say, they Avere red or salmon trouts— ^none of your whitcfleshed broAAH-skinned river fellow's.
DERRYCLEAR.
201
W h e n the gentlem en had finished their repast, the boatm en and
th e fam ily set to work upon the ton o f potatoes, a num ber o f the
re m a in in g fish, and a store o f other g o o d th in g s; then w e all sat
ro u n d the turf-fire in the dark cottage, the rain com ing dow n steadily
o u tsid e, an d veilin g everything excep t the shrubs and verdure im m e
d ia te ly about the cottage. T h e herd, the herd’s wife, arid a n on de
scrip t fem ale friend, tw o healthy youn g herdsm en in corduroy rags,
th e herdsm an’s daughter p ad d lin g about with bare feet, a stout b la ck
e y e d w ench w ith her gow n over her head and a red p etticoat n ot quite
so go o d as new , the tw o boatm en, a b ad ger ju st killed and turned
inside out, the gentlem en, som e hens ca ck lin g and flapping about
a m o n g the rafters, a c a lf in a co m e r cropping green m eat and o cca
sio n ally visited b y the cow her m am m a, form ed the so ciety o f the
p lace. I t w as rather a strange picture ; but as for about two hours we
sat there, an d m aintained an alm ost unbroken silence, and as there
was n o other am usem ent but to look at the rain, I began , after the
enthusiasm o f the first half-hour, to think that after all L o n d o n was
a bearable p lace, and that for want o f a turf-fire and a bench in
C onnem ara, one mtg/U put up with a sofa and a new spaper in Pall
M all.
T h is , how ever, is acco rd in g to ta stes;
and I
m ust say that
Mr. M arcu s b etrayed a m ost bitter con tem pt for all co ck n e y tastes,
aw kw ardness, and ignorance : and ver}* right too. T h e night, on our
return hom e, all o f a sudden cle a re d ; but though the fishermen,
much to m y disgust— at the expression o f w hich, how'ever, the rascals
o n ly laughed— persisted in m aking m ore casts for trout, and trying
back in the dark upon the spots w'hich w e had visited in the m orning,
it app eared the fish had been frightened o ff b y the r a in ; and the
sportsm en m et w ith such indifferent success that at about ten o ’c lo c k
w e.fo u n d ourselves at Ballinahinch. D in n er w as served at e le v e n ;
and, I b elieve, there w as som e w hisky-punch afterw'ards, recom
m ended m edicin ally and to prevent the ill effects o f the w etting : but
tliat is n either here n or there.
T h e n ex t d ay the p etty sessions w ere to b e h eld at R oun dstone,
a little tow n w hich has lately sprung up near the noble b a y o f that
nam e. I w as glad to see som e specim ens o f C on nem ara litigation, as
a lso to b eh o ld at least one thousand beautiful view s that lie on the
five m iles o f road betw een the tow n and Ballinahinch.
R ivers and
ro ck s, m ountains and sea, green plains and bright skies, how (for the
202
hundred-and-fiftieth tim e) can pen-and-ink set yo u d o w n ?
But if
Berghem could have seen those blue m ountains, an d K a re l Dujardin
co u ld have cop ied som e o f these green, a iiy plains, w ith their brilliant
little coloured groups o f peasants, beggars, horsem en, many an
E nglishm an w ould kn ow C onnem ara upon canvas as h e does Italy
o r F lan ders now.
( 203 )
C H A P T E R X V IIL
ROUNDSTONE PETTY SESSIONS.
‘ T he tem ple o f august T h e m is,” as a F renchm an w ou ld call the
essions-room a t R o un dsto n e, is an apartm ent o f som e tw elve feet
iquare, with a deal table and a coup le o f chairs for the accom m olation o f the m agistrates, and a T estam en t w ith a p aper cross pasted
>n it to b e kissed b y the w itnesses and com plainants w ho frequent
he court. T h e law-papers, warrants, & c. are kep t on the sessionsJerk’s bed in an adjoin in g apartm ent, w hich com m ands a fine view
>f the court-yard— w here there is a stack o f turf, a pig, an d a shed
>eneath w'hich the m agistrates’ horses w ere sheltered during the
itting. T h e sessions-clerk is a gentlem an “ havin g,” as the phrase
s here, b o th the E n glish and Irish languages, and interpreting for
he benefit o f the w'orshipful bench.
And i f the co ck n e y reader supposes that in this rem ote country
pot, so w ild, so beautiful, so distant from the hum and v ice o f cities,
luarrelling is not, and litigation n ever shows her snaky head, he is
'eiy m uch m istaken. F rom w hat I saw, I w ould recom m end m y
ngenious yo u n g attorney w hose m erits are n ot appreciated in the
Qetropolis, to m ake an attem pt upon the village o f R o u n d s to n e ;
^here as yet, I believe, there is n o solicitor, and where an im m ense
nd increasing p ractice m ight sp eedily b e secured. M r. O ’C o n n ell,
ho is alw ays cryin g out “ Justice for Irelan d ,” finds strong supnrters am ong the R oun dstonians, w hose lo ve o f ju stice for themIves is inordinate. I to o k dow n the p lots o f the five first little
igious dram as w hich w'ere p layed before M r. M artin and the stipenary m agistrate.
C ase I .— A b o y sum m oned a y o u n g m an for beatin g him so
verely that he k e p t his b e d for a w eek, thereby breakin g an engagcent w ith his m aster, and losin g a quarter’s w ages.
T h e defen dan t stated, in reply, that the p lain tiff w as engaged— in
field through w hich defendant passed w ith another person — setting
1^0 little b o y s to fig h t; on w hich defen dan t to o k p lain tiff b y the
204
th e
co llar and turned him out o f the field. A w itness w h o w as present
swore tliat defendant n ever struck p lain tiff a t all, n o r k ic k e d him , nor
ill-used him , further than b y p ushing him out o f th e field.
A s to the loss o f his quarter’s w ages, the p la in tiff ingeniously
proved that he had afterw ards returned to his m aster, that he had
w orked out his tim e, and that h e had in fa ct re ce iv e d already the
greater part o f his hire. U p o n w hich the case w as dismissed, the
defendant quitting court w ithout a stain upon his honour.
a
C a se 2 was a m ost piteous and lam entable ca se o f k illin g cow.
T h e p lain tiff stepped forward w ith m any tears and m uch gesticulatioo
to state the fact, and also to declare that she w as in danger of her
life from the defendant’s fam ily.
I t appeared on the evid en ce that a portion o f the defendant
respectable fam ily are at present un dergoin g the rew ards whidi * *
law assigns to those w ho m ake m istakes in fields w ith regard to the
ownership o f sheep w hich som etim es graze there. T h e defendsntSi
father, O ’D am on , for havin g appropriated one o f th e fleecy blcaW*
o f O ’M eliboeus, w as at present passed b eyo n d sea to a co u n tiy whtf®
w ool, and con sequently m utton, is so plentiful, that h e w ill have
less tem ptation. D efen dan t’s brothers tread the L d o n ic w h cd W
th e sam e offence. P la in tiff’s son had been th e inform er in the c tie :
hence the feud betw een th e fam ilies, the threats o n th e part o f
defendant, the m urder o f the in nocent cow .
ROUNDSrONE P E T T Y SESSIONS.
205
on in vestigation o f the business, it w as discovered, and on
0Ts own testim ony, that the cow had n ot been killed , nor
in ju r e d ; but that the defen dan t had flung two stones at
mght have inflicted great injury had th ey hit the anim al
2r force in the eye or in an y delicate place,
ia n t adm itted flinging the stones, but alleged as a reason
)w w as trespassing on his grounds ; w hich p lain tiff did n ot
ined to deny.
C a s e dism issed.— D efen dan t retires w ith
ed hon our ; on w hich his m other steps forward, and lifting
id s w ith tears and shrieks, calls upon G o d to ivitness that
lant’s own brother-in-law had sold to her husband the very
account o f w hich he had been transported,
ishing p robably to doubt the ju stice o f the verd ict o f an
the m agistrate abruptly put an end to the lam entation and
he injured w om an b y causing her to be sent out o f court,
I the third cause on.
w'as a case o f thrilling interest and a com p licated nature,
tw o actions, w hich ought each perhaps to have been go n e
ately, but were taken together. In the first p lace T im o th y
rought an action against P a trick D o lan for breach o f conDt rem aining w ith him for the w hole o f six m onths during
Ian had agreed to serve H organ. T h e n D o la n brought an
linst H organ for not p ayin g him his w ages for six months*
ne— the w ages b ein g tw o guineas.
in at once, and w ith m uch candour, w ithdrew his charge
)olan, that the latter had n ot rem ained with him for six
nor can I understand to this day w hy in the first p lace h e
the charge, and w h y aftenvards he w ithdrew it. B ut im’ ad van cin g another charge against his late servant, he
that he had given him a suit o f clothes, w hich should be
d as a set-off against part o f the m oney claim ed,
such a suit o f clothes as poor D o lan had was n ever seen—
3t say m erely on an E n glish scarecrow , but on an Irish
Strips o f rags fell o ver the honest fellow ’s great braw ny
d th e co verin g on his b ig brow n legs hung on b y a w onder,
out his arms w ith a grim sm ile, and told his w orship to lo o k
)thes ! T h e argum ent was irresistib le : H o rgan w as ordered
rthwith. H e ought to have been m ade to p a y another guinea
ing a fellow -creature in rags so abom inable.
2o6
t h e IRISH SK E TC H B O O K
A n d n ow cam e a case o f trespass, in which there was notbiqg
interesting but the attitude o f the poor woman who trespassed, and
w ho m e ek ly ackn o w led ged the fact She stated, however, that dw
o n ly go t o ver the w all as a short cut home ; but the wall was d|gbt
feet high, with a ditch t o o ; and I fear there were cabbages or
p otatoes in the inclosure. T h e y fined her a sixpence, and she ooold
n ot p ay it, and w en t to ga o l for three days— ^where she and her bal^
a t an y rate w ill g e t a m eal.
L ast on tlie list w hich I to o k dow n came a man who will mikc
the fortune o f the L o n d o n attorn ey that I hope is on his way hither:
a rather old, curly-headed m an, w ith a sly smile perpetually lying on
his face (the reader m ay giv e w hatever inteipretation he please to the
“ ly in g ” ). H e com es before the court almost every fortnight, thef
say, with a com plaint o f one k in d or other. His present diaige wi*
against a m an for breaking into his court-yard, and wishing to tak^
possession o f the same. I t appeared that he, the defendant, an^
another lived in a row o f houses : the plaintiff’s house was, howevdf
first b u i l t ; and as his agreem ent specified that the plot o f ground
behind his house should be his likewise, he chose to imagine tW
the p lo t o f ground behind all the three houses was his, and built hb
turf-stack against his neighbour’s window.
The magistrates of
course pronounced against this ingenious discoverer o f wrongS) and
yUSTICE FOR IRELAND.
207
e le ft th e court still sm iling and tw isting round his little w icked
yes, an d declaring solem nly that he w ould put in an appale.
f one co u ld h ave purchased a k ick in g at a m oderate p rice o ff
hat fellow ’s b ack, it w ould h ave been a p leasan t little p iece o f
sdf-indulgence, and I confess I lo n ged to ask him the price o f
the article.
And so, after a few m ore such great cases, the court rose, an d I
had leisure to m ake m oral reflections, if so m in d e d : sighing to
think that cru elty and falsehood, selfishness and rapacity, dw ell n ot
in crowds alon e, but flourish all the w orld over— sw eet flowers o f
human nature, they bloom in all clim ates and seasons, and are ju st
as much at hom e in a hot house in T h a vie s’ In n as on a lone
mountain o r a ro ck y sea-coast in Irelan d, w here n ever a tree w ill
grow!
We w alk e d alon g this coast, after the ju d icia l proceedin gs w ere
over, to see the coun try, and the new road that the B oard o f W orks
is forming. Such a ivilderness o f rocks I n ever s a w ! T h e district for
miles is co vered w ith huge stones, shining w hite in patches o f green,
rith the B in ab o la on one side o f the spectator, and the A tla n tic
running in and out o f a thousand little bays on the other. T h e
country is v e ry hilly, or w avy rather, b ein g a sort o f ocean p e trifie d ;
and the engineers have hard w ork w ith these num erous abrupt little
ascents and descents, w hich they equalize as best th ey m ay— ^by
blastmg, cutting, filling cavities, and levellin g em inences. Som e
hundreds o f m en w ere em ployed at this w ork, busy w ith their
hand-barrows, their p ick in g and boring.
T h e ir p ay is eighteenPcnce a day.
There is little to see in the tow n o f R oun dstone, excep t a P resb y
terian chapel in process o f erection — that seem s b ig enough to acco m
modate the Presbyterians o f the co u n ty— ând a sort o f la y con vent,
heing a com m unity o f brothers o f the third order o f Saint Francis.
They are all artisans and w orkm en, tak in g no vow s, but livin g
together in com m on, and un dergoin g a certain religious regim en.
Their w ork is said to b e very go o d , and all are em ployed upon som e
labour or other. O n the front o f this unpretending little dw elling is
an inscription w ith a great deal o f preten ce, stating that the esta
blishment w as founded with the approbation o f “ H is G ra ce the M ost
Reverend th e L o rd A rch b ish op o f T u a m .”
T h e M o st R everen d D r. M a c H a le is a clergym an o f great learn-
2oS
ingt talents, and honesty, but his G ra ce the L o rd A rch b ish o p o f Tuam
strikes m e as b ein g no b e tte r than a m o u n teb a n k ; a n d some day 1
hope even his own p arty will laugh this hum bug dow n. It is had
enough to be awed by b ig titles at a l l ; b ut to respect sham ones I----O stars and garters !
W e shall have his G ra ce th e Lord Chief
R a b b i next, or his IjDrdship the A rch -lm au m !
( 209 )
C H A P T E R X IX .
CLIFDEN TO WESTPORT.
On leaving B allinahinch (with sincere regret, as any lo n ely tourist
Daay imagine, w ho is called upon to quit the hospitable friendliness o f
such a p lace and society), m y w ay lay b a ck to C lifden again, and
thence through the J o y ce country, b y the K ille r y m ountains, to W est
port in M a y o .
T h e road, am ounting in all to four-and-forty Irish
uiiles, is perform ed in cars, in different periods o f time, acco rd in g to
your horse and your luck. Som etim es, both b ein g bad, the traveller
is two days on the r o a d ; som etim es a dozen hours w ill suffice for the
journey— w hich w as the case w ith m e, though I confess to having
A fte r leavin g C lifd en , the
found the tw elve hours lo n g enough.
Wendly lo o k o f the coun try seem ed to v a n ish ; and though pichiresque enough, w as a thought too w ild and dism al for eyes
accustomed to adm ire a hop-garden in K e n t, or a view o f rich
fueadow'S in Surrey, w ith a clum p o f trees and a com fortable village
spire. “ In glis,” ' the G uide-book says, “ com pares the scenes to the
Norwegian F io rd s.” W ell, the N orw egian F io rd s must, in this case,
very dism al s ig h ts ! and I own that the w ildness o f H am pstead
Heath (with th e im posing w alls o f “ J ack Straw ’s C a s tle ” rising
stem in the m idst o f the green w ilderness) is m ore to m y taste than
general view s o f yesterday.
We skirted b y lake after lake, lyin g lo n ely in the m idst o f lo n e ly
l^glands, o r bathing the sides o f m ountains robed in som bre rifle
?feen. T w o or three m en, and as m any huts, you see in the course
each m ile perhaps, as toilin g up the b leak hills, or jin g lin g m ore
^pidly dow n them, yo u pass through this sad region. In the m idst
the w ilderness a chapel stands here and there, solitary, on the hill
side ; or a ruinous, useless school-house, its p ale w alls contrasting
rith the gen eral surrounding hue o f som bre purple and green. B ut
foough the coun try lo o ks m ore dism al than Connem ara, it is clearly
more fe r tile : w e passed m iles o f groim d that evid en tly w anted but
ittle cultivation to m ake them p ro fita b le ; and alon g the m ountain-
X4
210
THE IRISH SK E T C H B O O K
sides, in m any places, and o ver a great exten t o f M r. B la k e ’s country
especially, the hills were co vered with a th ick n atural plantatioiii
that m ay yield a little brushw ood now , b u t m ight in fifty years’ time
brin g thousands o f pounds o f reven ue to th e descen d an ts o f d e
Blakes. T h is spectacle o f a c o u n tiy go in g to w aste is enough to
m ake the cheerfullest landscape lo o k d ism a l: it g iv es this wiki
district a w oful lo o k indeed. T h e nam es o f the la k es b y which we
cam e I n oted dow n in a p o cket-bo o k as w e passed a lo n g ; but the
nam es were Irish, the ca r w as rattlm g, and th e o n ly n am e readable
in the catalogue is L etterfrack.
T h e little ham let o f L een a n e is at tw en ty m iles’ distance ftom
Clifden ; and to arrive at it, you skirt th e m ountain a lo n g one side of
a vast pass, through w hich the o cean runs from K ilie iy B ay, sepa
rating the m ountains o f M a y o from th e m ountains o f Galway.
N o th in g can b e m ore grand and glo o m y than this p a s s ; andasibr
the character o f the scenery, it m ust, as the G u id e-b o ok says, “ be
seen to be understood.”
M eanw hile, le t the read er im agine huge
dark m ountains in their accustom ed livery o f purple an d green, a duD
gray sk y above them, an estuary silver-bright b e lo w : in the water
lies a fisherman’s b o at or t w o ; a pair o f seagulls un dulating with tbe
little w aves o f the w a t e r ; a pair o f curlew s w heelin g overhead and
pipin g on the w in g ; and on the hill-side a jin g lin g car, w ith a cockney
in it, oppressed b y and y et adm iring all these things.
Many a
sketcher and tourist, as I found, has visited this picturesque
for the hostess o f the inn h ad stories o f E n glish an d Americin
painters, and o f illustrious book-w riters too, travelling in tb e scrricc
o f our L ord s o f P aternoster R o w .
T h e landlord’s son o f C lifden , a very in telligent yo u n g felloir,
w as here exch an ged for a new carm an in th e person o f a raw Irishcr
o f tw enty years o f age, “ having ” little E n glish, and dressed in dot
very pair o f pantaloons w hich H u m p h rey C lin k e r w as com pelled tt
cast o ff som e years since on accoun t o f th e offen ce w h ich they gaw
to M rs. T a b ith a Bram ble. T h is fellow , em erging firom am ong die
boats, w ent o ff to a field to seek fo r the b la ck horse, w h id i the land
la d y assured m e was quite fresh and h ad n ot b een o u t a ll day, and
w ould carry m e to W estport in three hours.
M ean w h ile I w as lodlged
in a neat little parlour, surveying the M a y o side o f th e water, i r i i
som e cultivated fields and a show o f a villa ge a t th e sp ot w h e n d« '
estuary ends, and a b ove them lo d ges an d fine d a ik plantatioDi
LEENANE.
211
clim bing o ver the dark hills that lead to L o rd Sligo’s seat o f D elph i.
Presently, w ith a curtsey, cam e a youn g w om an w ho sold w orsted
socks at a shilling a pair, and w hose portrait is here given.
It required no sm all pains to entice this rustic beauty to stand
while a sketch should b e m ade o f her. N o r did any com plim ents or
cajolements, on m y part or the landlady’s, bring abou t the m a tte r : it
was not until m on ey w as offered that the lo vely creature consented.
I offered (such is the ardour o f the real artist) either to give her six
pence, or to purchase tw o pairs o f her socks, if she w ould stand still
for five m inutes. O n w hich she said she w ould prefer selling the socks.
Then she stood still for a m om ent in the co m e r o f the r o o m ; then she
turned her face towards the co m e r and the other part o f her person
towards the artist, and exclaim ed in that attitude, “ I must have a
shilling m ore.” T h e n I told her to go to the deuce. T h e n she m ade
a proposition, in volvin g the stockings and sixpence, w hich w as
®milarly r e je c te d ; and, finally, the above splendid design was com
pleted a t the price first stated.
H ow ever, as w e w ent off, this tim id little dove barred the d o o r
for a m om ent, and said that “ I ought to give her another s h illin g ;
that a gen tlem an w ould give her another shilling,” and so on.
She
212
m iglit liave trod the I^ n d o n streets for ten years and not have ken
m ore im pudent and more greedy.
B y this tim e the famous fresh horse was produced, a n d the drim,
by means o f a wTaprascal, had covered a great part o f the rags of
his lower garm ent. H e carried a whip and a stick, th e former lying
across his knees ornam entally, the latter being for s e r v ic e ; and ashii
feet were directly under the horse’s tail, he had full com m and of t k
brute's back, and belaboured it for six hours w ithout ceasing.
W hat little English the fellow knew he uttered with a howl, roanog
into m y ear answers— which, for the m ost part, w'ere w rong— to various
questions put to him. T h e lad s vo ice was so hideous, that I aslttd
him i f he could s i n g ; on which forthwith he began yelUng a most
horrible Irish ditty— o f w'hich he told m e the title, that I'h a ve forgotten.
H e sang three stanzas, certainly k eep in g a kin d o f tune, and the latter
lines o f each verse Avere in rhym e ; but w hen I asked him the meaaii^
o f the song, he o n ly roared out its Irish title.
O n questioning the driver fiirther, it turned out that the hof«j
wviTxanied fresli, had already perform ed a journ ey o f eighteen miia
that m orning, and the consequence was that I had full leisure to ^
sunêy the country’ through which we passed. T h e re w ere more lakes,
m ore mountains, more bog, and an excellen t road through this londy
district, though few only o f the human race enliven ed i t A t ten
miles from L eenane, Ave stopped at a road-side hut, vdiere the driver
pulled out a bag o f oats, and borroAving an iron p o t from the good
people, half filled it Avith co m , w hich the poor tired, ga lled , bewhipped .
black horse began eagerly to devour. T h e young charioteer hirosdf.
hinted very broadly his desire for a glass o f w hisky, w h ich was the
o n ly kind o f refreshment that this rem ote house o f cnteiîimient^
supplied.
In the various cabins I have entered, I have found talkin g a vria
m a ile r ; the people are suspicious o f the stranger within their wretched
gates, and are shy, sly, and s ile n t I have, com m only, o n ly been:
ab le to get half-answers in rep ly to m y questions, giv en in a manner
that seem ed ])lainly to intim ate that the visit was unw elcom e. În
this rude h o stel, hoAvever, the landlord was a little less reserve^
offered a seat at the turfifire, where a p ain ter m ight h ave had a good
subject for his s k ill T h e re was no chim ney, but a h o le in the rooi
up w hich a small portion o f the sm oke ascen ded (the rest preferring
an egress b y the door, or else to remain in the apartm ent altogether);
THE BAITING-HOUSE.
213
s ligh t from above ligh ted up as rude a set o f figures as ever
;een.
T h ere w ere two brow n wom en with black eyes and
the one knitting stockings on the floor, the other “ rackin g ”
hat natural com b w hich five h o m y fingers supply) the elf-locks
irty urchin betw een her knees. A n idle fellow was sm oking
)e b y the f ir e ; and by his side sat a stranger, w ho had been
velcom e to the shelter o f the p lace— a sickly, w ell-looking m an,
I m istook for a deserter at first, for he had evid en tly been a
: there was n othing so rom antic as desertion in his history,
d been in the D ragoons, b u t his m other had purchased his
•ge : he was m arried, and had lived com fortably in C o rk for
;ime, in the glass-blow ing business. T ra d e failing at C o rk, he
ne to Belfast to seek for work. T h e re was no w ork at B e lfa s t;
was so far on his road hom e again : sick, w ithout a p en ny in
rid, a hundred and fifty m iles to travel, and a starving wife and
n to receive him at his jo u rn ey’s end. H e had been thrown
aravan that day, and had alm ost broken his b a ck in the fall,
ras a cheering story ! I w onder w here he is n o w : how far has
o r starving lonely m an advan ced o ver that w eary desolate
hat in go o d health, and w ith a horse to carry m e, I thought it
Ity to cross ? W h at w ould one do under such circum stances,
>litude and hunger for present com pany, despair and starvation
end o f the vista ? T h e re are a score o f lon ely lakes alon g th e
hich he has to pass : w ou ld it be w ell to stop at one o f them,
i g into it the w retched load o f cdres w hich that p oor broken
as to carry ? W o u ld the w orld he w ould light on then be w orse
1 than that he is pining in now ? H eaven help u s ! and on
;ry day, throughout the three kingdom s, there are a m illion
;ories to b e told ! W h o dare doubt o f heaven after that ? o f a
vhere there is at last a w elcom e to the heart-stricken p rodigal
happy hom e to the wTCtched ?
e crum bs o f oats w hich fell from the m outh o f the feasting D iv es
3rse w ere battled for outside the door b y a dozen L azan ises
shape o f fo w ls ; and a la n ky youn g pig, w ho had been grunting
)ld chest in the cabin, or in a m iserable recess o f huddled rags
raw w hich form ed the couch o f the fam ily, presently cam e out
•ove the poultry aw ay, p ickin g up, with great accuracy, the
grains lying about, and m ore than once trying to shove his
214
snout into the com -pot, and share w ith the w retch ed o ld g a lled hoisc.
AVhether it was that he was refreshed b y his m eal, o r th at the car-bqjr
was invigorated b y his glass o f w hisky, o r inflam ed b y the sight of
eighteenpence— w hich m unificent sum w as ten dered to th e soldier— I
don ’t k n o w ; but the rem aining eight m iles o f the jo u rn e y were got
o ver in m uch quicker tim e, although the road w as exceed in gly bad
and hilly for the greatest part o f the w'ay to W e s tp o rt However, hf
cnm-
running up the hills at the p o n y’s side, the anim al, fired with
lation, trotted up them too— descen ding them w ith th e proverbial
surefootedness o f his race, the car and he b o u n cin g o v e r the rocb
and stones at the rate o f at least four Irish m iles an hour.
A t about five m iles from W estport the cultivation becam e much
m ore frequent. T h ere were plantations upon th e hills, yellow com
and potatoes in plen ty in the fields, and houses th ick ly scattered.
W e Imd the satisfaction, too, o f kn ow in g that future tourists will have
an excellen t road to travel over in this d is tr ic t: for b y th e side of the
o ld road, w hich runs up and dow n a hundred little ro ck y steeps^
accordin g to the ancient plan, yo u see a n ew one running for several
m iles,— the latter w ay bein g con ducted , n o t o ve r the hills, but around
them , and, considering the circum stances o f the coun try, extremdy
broad and even. T h e car-boy presently y elled out “ R e e k , R e e k I ”
with a shriek perfectly appalling. T h is how l was to signify that wc
w'ere in sight o f that fam ous co n ical m ountain so nam ed, and fioim
w hich St. Patrick, after inveigling thither all the ven om ou s rept e$
3
in Irelan d, p recipitated the w hole noisom e race in to C le w Bay. T h e
road also for several m iles w as covered w ith p eo p le, w ho wcrm
flockin g in hundreds from W estp ort m arket, in cars an d carts^ om
horseback single and double, and on foot.
A n d presently, from an em inence, I caugh t sight n o t o n ly o f
fine view , but o f the m ost beautiful view I ever saw in th e world, t
th in k ; and to en jo y the splendour o f w hich I w ould travel a h u n d r e d
m iles in that car with that very horse and driver. T h e sun w as jus*=
about to set, and the coun try round abou t and to th e east w as almost^
in twilight.
T h e m ountains were tum bled abou t in a thousand^
fantastic ways, and swarm ing w ith people.
T te e s, corn-fields^
cottages, m ade the scene in describably ch eerfu l; n o b le w oo ds stretchecC'
towards the sea, and abutting on them, betw een tw o highlands, la]^
the sm oking town. H ard b y was a large G o th ic bu ild in g— ît is b a t
a p oor-house; but it lo o ked like a grand castle in th e g r a y e v e n in g -
CLEW B AY.
215
e B a y — and the R e e k w hich sweeps dow n to the sea— and a
td islands in it, w ere dressed up in go ld and purple and
»n, w ith the w hole clo u d y w est in a flame. W onderful, wonder. T h e valleys in the road to L een an e h ave lost all glim pses o f
n ere t h is ; and I suppose there is not a soul to be seen in the
landscape, or b y the shores o f the gh astly lakes, w here the p o or
)lower from the w hisky-shop is faintly travelling now.
2i6
t h e IRISH SK E TCH BOOK.
CH APTER
XX.
WESTPORT.
N a t u r e has don e m uch for this pretty town of Westport; and ifto
N ature, the traveller ought to be thankful to Lord Sligo, who his
don e a great deal too. In the first place, he has established one of
the prettiest, com fortablest inns in Ireland, in the best part of Ws
little town, stockin g the cellars w ith good wines, filling the home
with neat furniture, and lending, it is said, the whole to a landloid
gratis, on con dition that he should keep the house warm, and fuinidi
the larder, and entertain the traveller. Secondly, Lord Sligo his
giv en up, for the use o f the tow nspeople, a beautiful Kttle pleasotground about his house. “ Y o u m ay depand upon it,” said a Scotdim an at the inn, “ that they’ve right o f pathway through the groonds,
and that the m arquess couldn ’t shut A em oot.” Which is a pretty
fair specim en o f charity in this w orld— this kind world, that is alwajs
ready to encourage and applaud go o d actions, and find good motives
for the same. I w onder how m uch would induce that Scotchman to
allow poor p eo p le to w alk in
his park, i f he had one I
In the m idst o f this pleasm e-ground, an d surrounded by a
thousand fine trees, dressed up in a ll sorts o f verd ure, stands a pretty
little c h u r c h ; paths through the w oo d lead p leasan tly d o w n to the
b a y ; and, as w e w alked dow n to it on the d ay after our arrival, one
o f the green fields was suddenly b la ck w ith rooks, making a huge
caw ing and clanging as th ey settled dow n to feed. The house, a
handsom e m assive structure, m ust com m and n ob le view s of the bay,
o ver w hich all the colours o f T itia n w ere spread as the sun set
behind its purple islands.
Printer’s in k will n ot g iv e these wonderful hues; and the reader
ivill m ake his picture at his leisure. That conical mountain to the
left is C roaghp atrick : it is clothed in the most magnificent violetcolour, and a couple o f round clouds were exploding as it were fiom
the summit, that part o f them towards the sea lighted up wifli the
m ost delicate gold and rose colour. In the centre is the Clare Ialaiid»
WESTPORT.
217
o f w h ich th e edges were bright cobalt, w hilst the m iddle was lighted
up w ith a brilliant scarlet tinge, such as I w ould h ave laughed at in a
picture, n ev er havin g seen in nature before, but lo o ked at now w ith
wonder an d pleasure until the hue disappeared as the sun w ent aw ay.
The islands in the bay (w hich was o f a g o ld colour) lo o k ed lik e so
many dolphins and w hales basking there.
T h e rich park-w oods
stretched dow n to the shore ; and the im m ediate foreground consisted
of a y ello w corn-field, w hereon stood innum erable shocks o f co m ,
casting im m ense lo n g purple shadow s over the stubble. T h e farmer,
with som e little ones about him, was superintending his re a p e rs ; and
I h e a rd him say to a little girl, “ N o rey, I love you the b est o f all m y
c h ild r e n ! ”
P resently, one o f the reapers com ing up, says, “ It’s
a lw a y s the custom in these parts to ask strange gentlem en to giv e
so m e th in g to drink the first d ay o f re a p in g ; and w e’d like to drink
y o u r h on our’s health in a b o w l o f coffee.” O fortunatos nimium !
T h e c o c k n e y takes out sixpence, and thinks that he never passed
su c h a p leasan t half-hour in all his life as in that corn-field, lo o kin g at
that w onderful bay.
A c a r w bich I had ordered presently jo in ed m e from the to\vn,
and g o in g dow n a green lane very like E n gland, and across a cause
way n ea r a buildin g w here the carm an proi)osed to show m e “ m e
lard’s caffin that he brought from R o m e, and a m ighty big caffin
entirely,” we cam e close upon th e w ater and the port.
T h e re w as a
long handsom e pier (which, no doubt, rem ains at this present
m inute), and one solitary cutter lying alon gside i t ; w'hich m ay or m ay
n ot b e there now. T h e re were about three boats lying near the
cu tter, and six sailors, with long shadows, lolling about the pier.
A s for the warehouses, they are en o rm ou s; and m ight accom m odate,
I should think, not o n ly the trade o f W estport, but o f M anchester
to o . T h e re are huge streets o f these houses, ten storeys high, with
cran es, ow ners’ nam es, & c ., m arked W ine Stores, F lo u r Stores,
B o n d e d T o b a c c o W arehouses, and so forth. T h e six sailors that
w e re singing on the pier no d o u bt are each adm irals o f as m any
fleets o f a hundred sail that brin g wines and tob acco from all
quarters o f the w'orld to fill these enorm ous warehouses. T h e se
dism al m ausoleum s, as vast as pyram ids, are the places where th e
d e a d trade o f W estport lies buried— a trade that, in its lifetim e,
p ro b a b ly was about as b ig as a mouse. N o r is this the first nor the
hu n dredth p lace to b e seen in this country, w hich sanguine builders
218
THE IRISH SK E T C H BOOK.
have erected to accom m odate an im aginary com m erce.
Miltownns
over-m ill them selves, m erchants over-w arehouse them selves, squiies
over-castle them selves, little tradesm en ab ou t D u b lin an d the cities
over-villa and over-gig them selves, and w e h ear sad tales about
hereditary bond age and the accursed tyranny o f E n glan d.
P assing out o f this dreary, pseudo-com m ercial port, the road lay
a lon g the beautiful shores o f C le w B ay, adorn ed w ith m an y a rickety
villa and pleasure-house, from the crack ed w indow s o f w hich may be.
seen one o f the n oblest view s in the w orld. O n e o f the villas Ac
gu ide poin ted out with p eculiar e x u lta tio n : it is ca lled b y a grand
nam e— W aterloo Park, and has a lo d ge, and a gate, an d a field of a
coup le o f acres, and belon gs to a youn g gen tlem an w ho, being aUc
to write W aterloo Park on his card, succeeded in carryin g o ff a young
L on d o n heiress with a hundred thousand pounds. T h e yo u n g couple
had just arrived, and one o f them m ust h ave b een rather astonished,
no doubt, at the “ p ark.”
B ut w hat w ill n ot lo v e d o ? W ith love
and a hundred thousand pounds, a co ttag e m a y b e m ade to look like
a castle, and a park o f tw o acres m ay b e brought to exte n d for a
T h e night began now- to fall, w-rapping up in a sober g ra y livery the
b a y and m ountains, w hich had ju st been so gorgeous in s u n s e t; and
w'e turned our b a ck s p resen tly upon the bay, an d the villa s with the
crack ed w indows, and scalin g a road o f perpetual ups a n d downs,
w ent back to W e stp o rt
O n the w ay w as a p retty cem etery, lying on
each side o f the road, w ith a ruined chapel for the ornam ent o f one
division, a h o ly well for the other. In the h o ly w ell live s a sacred
trout, w hom sick people com e to consult, and w h o op erates great
cures in tlie neighbourhood. I f th e patient sees the trout floating on
his b a ck , he d i e s ; if on his belly, h e lives ; o r vice versd. T h e little
spot is old, ivy-grow n, and picturesque, and
p lace for a pilgrim to kn eel and say his beads
But considering the w hole coun try go es
priests can govern it as they will, teachin g
and what shall b e n ot credited, w ould it
I can ’t fen cy
at.
to m ass, a n d
w hat shall be
n o t be well
a better
that the
believed
fo r their
reverences, in the year eighteen hundred an d forty-two, to discourage
these absurd lies and superstitions, and teach some simple-tn iA s
to their fiock ?
L ea v e such figm ents to m agazin e-w riters and
ballad-m akers; but, corbleu 1 it m akes on e indignant, to think that
people in the U n ited K in gd o m , w here a press is a t w o rk and good
sense is abroad, and clergym en are eager to educate the people.
A S E R M O N ON SERM ONS.
■'hoiiM c o u n t e n a n c e su ch sa v age
su pers titions a n d silly.
219
g r o \ e llin g
heathenisms.
The chapel is before the inn w'here I resided, and on Sunday,
from a very early hour, the side of the street was thronged with
worshippers, who came to attend the various services. Nor are the
Catholics the only devout people of this remote district. There is a
large Presbyterian church very well attended, as was the Established
Church service in the pretty church in the park. There was no
organ, but the clerk and a choir of children sang hymns sweetly and
^nrly; and a charity sermon being preached for the benefit of the
diocesan schools, I saw many pound-notes in the plate, showing
that the Protestants here were as ardent as their Roman Catholic
brethren. The sermon was extempore, as usual, according to the
prevailing taste here. The preacher by putting aside his sermonbook may gain in warmth, which we don’t want, but lose in reason,
Which we do. If I were Defender of the Faith, I .would issue an
order to all priests and deacons to take to the book again ; weighing
Well, before they uttered it, every word they proposed to say upon so
great a subject as that of religion; and mistrusting that dangerous
fecility given by active jaws and a hot imagination. Reverend
divines have adopted this habit, and keep us for an hour listening to
what might well be told in ten minutes. They are wondrously fluent,
considering all things; and though I have heard many a sentence
begun whereof the speaker did not evidently know the conclusion,
yet, somehow or other, he has always managed to get through the
paragraph without any hiatus, except perhaps in the sense. And as
for as I can remark, it is not calm, plain, downright preachers who
preserve the extemporaneous system for the most part, but pompous
orators, indulging in all the cheap graces of rhetoric— exaggerating
words and feelings to make effect, and dealing in pious caricature.
Church-goers become excited by this loud talk and captivating
banner, and can’t go back afterwards to a sober discourse read out
^ a grave old sermon-book, appealing to tbe jr ^ o n and the gentle
fooliugSj instead of to the passions and the imagination. Beware of
foo much talk, O parsons! If a man is to give an account of every
idle word he utters, for what a number of such loud nothings, windy
®®^phatic tropes and metapho|:s,, spoken, not for.. God’s glory, but the
Pi^^her^s, will many a cushion-thumper have to answer ! And this
^®buke may properly find a place here, because the clergyman by
220
THE IRISH SK E T C H B O O K
whose discourse it was elicited is n ot o f the elo qu en t dramati
b ut a gentlem an, it is said, rem arkable for old-fisishioned le a m i
quiet habits, that do n ot seem to b e to the taste o f th e
boisterous youn g clergy o f the present day.
T h e C ath o lic chapel w as built before their graces the
reverend lord archbishops cam e in to fashion. I t is lar|
gloom y, with one or tw’o attem pts at ornam ent b y w ay o f p ict
the altars, and a go o d inscription w arning the in-com er, in a fe
words, o f the sacredness o f the p lace he stands in. B are fe(
aw ay thousands o f p eop le w ho cam e to pray th e re : then
num bers o f sm art equipages for the richer P rotestan t con gre
Strolling about the town in the balm y sum m er evening, I hes
sw eet tones o f a hym n from the peop le in the Presbyterian p
house. In deed, the country is full o f piety, and a w arm , s
undoubting devotion.
O n w eek-days the street before the chapel is scarcely less ci
than on the S a b b a th : but it is with w om en and children m ere
a stream bordered w ith lim e-trees runs pleasan tly dow n the
and hither com e innum erable girls to w ash, w hile the childrer
dirt-pies and lo o k on. W ilk ie w as here som e years since, a
j)lace affords a great deal o f am usem ent to the painter o f chi
Sketchin g, tanf bien quc maly the bridge an d the trees, and
o f the nym phs engaged in the stream , th e w riter becam e an
o f no sm all a tte n tio n ; and at least a score o f dirty brats lei
dirt-pies to lo o k on, the bare-legged w ashing-girls grinnin{
the water.
SKETCHING.
221
One, a regular rustic beauty, w hose face and figure w ou ld have
niade the fortune o f a frontispiece, seem ed p articularly am used and
agofante; an d I w alked round to ge t a draw ing o f her fresh jo lly
f k e : but directly I cam e near she p ulled her gow n o ver her head,
and resolutely turned round her b a c k ; and, as that part o f her person
did not seem to differ in character from the b a ck s o f the rest o f
Europe, there is n o need o f taking its likeness.
222
CH APTER XXL
THE PAITERN AT CROAGHPATRICK.
O n the P attern day, how ever, the w asherw om en an d children had
all disappeared— nay, the stream , too, seem ed to b e gone ont of
town. T h e re was a report current, also, that o n th e occasion of Ac
Pattern, six hundred teetotallers had sworn to r e v o lt ; an d I fear
it was the hope o f w itnessing this awful rebellion w hich induced mo
to stay a couple o f days at W e s tp o rt
T h e P attern w as commenced
on the Sunday, and the priests go in g up to th e m ountain took care
that there should be no sports n or dan cin g on that d a y ; b ut that the
peop le should o n ly con ten t them selves w ith the perform ance o f what
are called religious duties. R eligio u s d u tie s ! H e a v e n help us! If
these reverend gentlem en w ere ivorshippers o f M o lo ch o r Baal, or
any d eity w hose honour dem an ded b loodshed , and savage rites, and
degradation, and torture, one m ight fan cy them encouraging the
p eop le to the disgusting penances the p o or things here perform. B ut
it’s too hard to think that in our days an y priests o f a n y religio*^
should be found superintending such a hideous series o f self-sacrifioe^
as are, it appears, perform ed on this hill.
A friend w ho ascen ded the h ill brought down th e fo llo w in g
acco u n t o f it. T h e ascen t is a very steep and hard on e, he sayn
but it was perform ed in com pany o f thousands o f p eo p le w ho wcT®
5
m aking their w ay barefoot to the several “ stations ” u p o n th e hilL
“ T h e first station consists o f o n e heap o f stones, round w h ic ^
th ey m ust w alk seven times, castin g a stone on th e heap each
and before and after every stone’s throw sayin g a prajrer.
“ T h e second station is on the top o f the m ountain.
H e re t h c ^
is a great altar— a shapeless heap o f stones.
T h e poor w re tc h ^
craw l on their knees into this p lace, say fifteen prayers, an d after gok^l
round the entire top o f the m ountain fifteen tim es, sa y f i f i e ^
prayers again.
“ T h e third station is near th e bottom o f the m ountain at
further side from W e s tp o rt
I t consists o f
three heaps.
Tb^
penitents m ust go seven tim es round these co llectiv ely, and se v e n
THE PATTERN.
223
les afterw ards round each individually, sayin g a prayer before and
sr each progress.”
M y inform ant describes the p eop le as com in g aw ay from this
rightful exh ibition suffering severe pain, w ounded and b leed in g in
i knees an d feet, and som e o f the w om en shrieking w ith the pain
their w ounds.”
F a n cy thousands o f these-bent upon their w ork,
d priests standing b y to encourage them !— F o r sham e, for shame,
all the popes, cardinals, bishops, hennits, priests, and deacon s
at ever lived w ere to com e forward and preach this as a truth—
at to please G o d you must m acerate your b ody, that the sight
your agonies is w elcom e to H im , and that your blood, groans,
id degradation find favour in H is eyes, I w ould n ot believe them ,
stter have o ver a com p an y o f
ittee going.
F ak eers a t once, and set the
O f these tortures, how ever, I had n ot the fortune to witness a
jh t: for g o in g tow ards the m ountain for the first four m iles, the
ily con veyan ce I could find was h a lf the p on y o f an honest sailor,
10 said, w hen app lied to, “ I tell you w hat I do w id y o u : I give
ma spell abou t.” But, as it turned out w e were go in g different w ays,
is help was but a sm all one. A car ^vith a spare seat, how ever,
lere w ere hundreds o f others quite full, and scores o f rattling
>untr>'-carts co vered w ith people, and thousands o f bare legs trudgg along the road,)— a car with a spare seat passed b y at tw o m iles
)m the Pattern, and that ju st in tim e to get com fortably w et through
i arriving there. T h e w hole m ountain was enveloped in m is t; and
? could n ow here see thirty yards before us. T h e w om en w alked
■ward, w ith their gow ns o ver their h e a d s ; the m en sauntered on in
J rain, with the utm ost indifference to i t
T h e ca r presently cam e
a cottage, the court in front o f w hicli w as b la ck w ith tw o hundred
‘ses, and w here as m any drivers were jan glin g and b a w lin g ; and
€ we w ere told to descend. Y o u had to go over a w all and across
•rook, and beh o ld the Pattern.
T h e pleasures o f the p oor p eople— for after the business on th e
vintain cam e the dancin g and love-m aking at its fo o t— were w ofully
riled b y the rain, w hich ren dered d an cin g on the grass im p o ssib le ;
r were the tents b ig enough for that exercise.
In d eed , the w h o le
ht was as dism al and half-savage a one as I have seen.
T h e re
y have been fifty o f these tents squatted round a plain o f the m ost
lliant green grass, behind w hich the m ist-curtains seem ed to rise
224
THE IRISH SK E TC H B O O K
im m e d ia te ly ; for you co u ld n ot even see th e m ountain-side bejfond
them. H e re was a great crow d o f m en an d w om en, a ll ugly, as c
fortune o f the d ay w ould h ave it (for th e sagaciou s reader has, no
doubt, rem arked that there are u g ly an d p retty d a y s in life). Stalls
were spread about, w h ereo f the ow ners w ere sh riekin g o u t the piaises
4
o f their Avarcs— great coarse dam p-looking b a n n o ck s o f h r ^ for
the m ost part, or, m ayhap, a d irty co llectip n o f p igsfeet and soch
refreshments. Several o f the b ooths professed to b e lo n g to “ coofectioners ” from W estp ort or C astlebar, the co n fectio n ery consistiog
o f huge biscuits
and
doubtful-looking
ginger-beer— ginger-alc or
gingeretta it is ca lled in this country, b y a fenciful p eo p le who low
the finest titles. A n d to these, caldrons con tain in g w ater for "tay"
at the doors o f the booths, other pots full o f m asses o f p ale legs of
m utton (the ow ner “ p roddin g,” every n ow and then, fo r a bit,and
holdin g it up and ask in g the passenger to buy).
I n the booths it
Avas im possible to stand upright, or to see m uch, o n account of
sm oke. M en and w om en w ere crow ded in these rude tents, huddled
together, and disappearing in the darkness.
O w n ers cam e bustliiV
out to replenish the em pty w ater-ju gs: and landladies stood outside
in the rain callin g strenuously upon all passers-by to enter. Here is*
design taken from one o f the booths, presenting ingeniously an
outside and an inside view o f the sam e p lace— an artifice seidoo
practised in pictures.
M eanw hile, high up on the invisible m ountain, th e peoffle
dragging their b leed in g kn ees
&om altar to altar, flingipg
RETURNING FROM THE P A T T E R N
225
I m uttering som e endless litanies, with the priests standing by.
link I w as n ot sorry that the rain, and the care o f m y precious
ilth, p revented m e from m ounting a severe hill to w itness a sight
t could o n ly have caused one to be shocked and asham ed that
vants o f G o d should encourage it.
T h e road hom e was very
asant; everyb o d y w as w et through, b u t everyb o d y w as happy, and
some m iracle we w ere seven on the car. T h e re w as the honest
glishman in the m ilitary cap, w ho sang “ T h e sea, the hopen sea’s
’ome,” although n ot an y one o f the com p an y called upon him for
t air. T h e n the m usic was taken up b y a good-natured lass from
stlebar; then the Englishm an again, “ W ith burnished brand and
i s k e t o o n a n d there w as no end o f pushing, pinching, squeezing,
i laughing. T h e Englishm an, especially, had a favourite yell, with
ich he saluted and astonished all cottagers, passengers, cars, that w e
t or overtook.
Presen tly cam e prancing b y two dandies, w ho
re especially frightened b y the noise. “ T h im ’s two tailors from
:stport,” said the carm an, grinning with all his might. “ Com e,
: out o f the w ay there, ga t a lo n g ! ” piped a sm all E n glish vo ice
m ab ove som ewhere.
I lo o ked up, and saw a little creature
'ched on the top o f a tandem , w hich he was driving with the m ost
owing air— a dreadful youn g hero, w ith a w hite hat, and a w hite
e, and a blue bird’s-eye n eckcloth. H e was five feet high, if an
:h, an ensign, and s ix te e n ; and it was a great com fort to think, in
>e o f dan ger or riot, that one o f his years and personal strength
s at hand to give help.
“ T h im ’s the afficers,” said the carm an, as the tandem w heeled
, a small groom quivering on behind— and the carm an spoke w ith
e greatest respect this tim e. T w o days before, on arriving at
estport, I had seen the sam e equipage at the door o f the inn—
lere for a m om ent there happened to be no w aiter to receive me.
shouldering a carpet-bag, I w alked into the inn-hall, and asked a
ntleraan standing there w here was the coffee-room ? It was the
litary tandem -driving youth, w ho with m uch grace lo o ked up in m y
'e, and said calm ly, I dawnt knawP I believe the little creature
d just b een dining in the very room — and so present m y best comiments to him.
The G uide-book w ill inform the traveller o f m any a beautiful spot
rich lies in the neighbourhood o f W estport, and w hich I had n ot
e time to v i s i t ; b ut I m ust n ot take leave o f the excellen t little
IS
226
inn w ithout speakin g once m ore o f its extrem e c o m fo r t; nor of Ac
p lace itself, w ithout another parting w ord regard in g its beauty. It
form s an event in one’s life to h ave seen that p lace , so beautiM is h,
and so unlike all other beauties that I kn o w o£ W e re such beauties
lyin g upon E nglish shores it w ou ld b e a w orld’s w o n d e r : perhaps, if
it w ere on the M editerranean, or the B a ltic, E n glish tra vellen ivooM
flock to it b y h u n d re d s ; w hy n ot co m e an d see it in Irdand!
R em o te as the spot is, W estp ort is o n ly tw o days’ jo u m ^ ftwn
L on d o n now, and lies in a coun try far m ore strange to m ost traveDen
than F ran ce or G erm any can be.
( 227 )
C H A P T E R X X I I.
FROM WESTPORT TO BALLINASLOE.
i'HE m ail-coach took us next d ay b y C astleb ar and T u a m to Ballinsloe, a jo u rn ey o f near eighty miles.
T h e country is interspersed
dth innum erable seats belon gin g to the Blakes, the Browns, and the
-ynches ; and w e passed m any large dom ains b elon gin g to bankrupt
^rds and fugitive squires, w ith fine lodges adorned with moss and
attered window's, and parks w here, if the grass was grow ing on the
oads, on the other hand the trees had been w eeded out o f the
rass. A b o u t these seats and their owners the guard— an honest,
hrewd fellow — had all the gossip to tell. T h e jo lly guard him self was a
uin, it turned o u t : he told m e his grandfather was a man o f large
Toperty; his father, he said, k e p i a p ack o f hounds, and had spent
ver}'thing b y the tim e he, the guard, was sixteen : so the lad m ade
iterest to get a m ail-car to drive, w hence he had been prom oted to
be guard’s seat, and now for forty years had occupied it, travelling
ighty m iles, and earning seven-and-tw'opence every day o f his life.
It had been once ill, he said, for three d a y s ; and if a man m ay be
udged b y ten hours’ talk w ith him, there were few more shrewd,
esolute, sim ple-m inded m en to b e found on the outside o f any
caches or the inside o f a ny houses in Ireland.
During the first five-and-twenty m iles o f the journey,— for the day
vas very sunny and bright,— C roaghpatrick kep t us c o m p a n y ; and,
•eated with your b a c k to the horses, you could see, “ on the left, that
âst aggregation o f m ountains w hich stretches southwards to the B ay
>f G a h 'a y ; on the right, that gigan tic assem blage w hich sweeps in
tircular outline northw ard to K illu le .” Som ewhere am ongst those
WUs the great John T u a m was b o m , w hose m ansion and cathedral
^ to be seen in T u a m town, b u t w hose fam e is spread everywhere.
To arrive at Castlebar, w e go o ver the undulating va lley w hich lies
between the m ountains o f J o y ce country and E rris; and the first
object w hich you see on entering the town is a stately G o th ic castle
Aat stands at a short distance from it.
On the gate o f the stately G o th ic castle was w ritten an inscription
228
n o t very h o sp ita b le: “ w i t h o u t b e w a r e , w i t h i n a m e n d ; ’ —
beneath w hich is an iron crane of n eat construction. The casde ii
the coun ty ga o l, and the iron crane is the gallows of the districL The
town seem s neat and liv e ly : there is a fine church, a grand boxncb
(celebrated as the residence of the young fellow with the bird*Myc
n eckcloth ), a club, and a W h ig an d Tory newspaper. The roid
hence to T u a m is very p retty and lively, from the number of countiy
seats alon g the w'ay, givin g comfortable shelter to more Blakei;
Brow ns, and L ynches.
In the cottages, the inhabitants lo o k ed health y a n d rosy in Adr
rags, and the cots them selves in the sunshine almost comfbitabiei
A fte r a couple o f m onths in the country, the stranger’s cyt grows
som ew hat accustom ed to the r a g s : th ey do n ot frighten him as it
first; the people who w ear them lo o k for the m ost part h ealth y enon^:
esp ecially the sm all children— those w ho can scarcely totter, and
are sitting shading their eyes at the door, and leavin g ^ e unfinished
dirt-pie to shout as the coach passes b y -^ a re as healthy a looking nee
as one w ill often see. N o r can an y one pass through the land wiAoot
b ein g touched b y the extrem e love o f children am ong th e peopk:
they swarm everyw here, and the w hole coun try rings w ith cries of
affection towards the children, with the songs o f yo u n g ragged nunes
dandlin g babies on their knees, and w arnings o f m others to Patscy to
com e out o f the m ud, or N o re y to g e t o ff the pig's back.
A t T uam the coach stopped exactly for fourteen minutes and a
half, during w hich tim e those w ho w ished might dine: but instead, I
had the pleasure o f inspecting a very mouldy, dirty town, and made
m y w ay to the C ath o lic cathedral— a very Imdsome edifice indeed;
handsom e without and within, and of the Gothic sort Over Ae
door is a huge coat o f arms surm ounted by a cardinal’s hat— Ae
arms o f the see, no doubt, quartered with John Tuam’s own patri
m onial c o a t ; and that was a frieze coat, from all accounts, p o i ^ y
ragged at the elbows. W ell, he m ust be a poor wag who c ^ d sneer
at an old coat, because it was old and poor; but if a man changes
it for a taw dry gim crack suit bedizen ed with twopenny tinsel, ttd
struts
laugh
these
sham.
to b e
about callin g h im self his grace and my lord, when may we
if not then ? T h ere is something simple in the way in whidi
go o d people belord their clergymen, and respect titles real cr
T a k e any D ublin paper,— a couple of columns of it ace snic
filled w ith m ovem ents of the small great men o f the woikL
IRISH LOVE OF TITLES.
229
A cco u n ts from D e n y n a n e state that the “ R ig h t H o n o u rable the
L o rd M a y o r is in go o d health— his lordship went out with his beagles
y e s te r d a y ;” or “ his G race the M o st R everen d the L ord A rch bish op
o f B allyw h ack, assisted b y the R ig h t R everen d the L ord Bishops o f
T rin co m a lee and H ippopotam us, assisted,” & c . ; or “ C o lo n el T im s,
o f C a stle T im s, and lady, have quitted the ‘ Shelburne H o te l,’ ’ w ith a
party for K ilballybathershin s, w here the august * party p ropose to
e n jo y a few d ays’ shrimp-fishing,”— and so on. O ur p eop le are n ot
w itty and k een o f p erceiving the ridiculous, like the I r is h ; b ut the
bluntness and hon esty o f the E nglish have w ell nigh k ick ed the
fashionable hum bug d o w n ; and excep t perhaps am ong footm en and
abou t B aker Street, this curiosity about the aristocracy is w'earing fast
away. H a v e the Irish so m uch reason to respect their lords that
th ey should so chronicle all their m ovem ents; and not only adm ire real
lords, but m ake sham ones o f their own to adm ire them 1
T h e re is no o b ject o f special m ark upon the road froin T u a m to
B allin asloe— the coun try b ein g flat for the m ost part, and the n oble
G a lw a y and M a y o m ountains having disappeared at length— until you
com e to a glim pse o f O ld E n gland in the p retty village o f A hascragh.
A n o ld oak-tree grows in the neat street, the houses are as trim and
white as e ye can desire, and about the church and the town are
handsom e plantations, form ing on the w hole such a picture o f
com fort and p len ty as is rarely to b e seen in the part o f Irelan d I
have traversed. A ll these w onders have been w rought b y the a ctivity
o f an excellen t resident agent.
T h e re was a countrym an on the
co a ch deploring that, through fam ily circum stances, this gentlem an
should have been dispossessed o f his agen cy, and declaring that the
village h ad already begun to deteriorate in consequence. T h e m arks
o f such d e cay were n ot, how ever, visible— at least to a n ew c o m e r;
and, b e in g rem inded o f it, I indulged in m any patriotic longings for
E n g la n d : as every Englishm an does w hen h e is travelling out o f the
co u n try w hich he is alw ays so w illing to quit.
T h a t a p lace should instantly begin to deteriorate because a certain
in dividual w as rem oved from it— that cottagers should becom e thrift
less, and houses dirty, and house-windows crack ed ,— all these are
p oints w hich public econom ists m ay rum inate over, and can’t fail to
g iv e the carelessest traveller m uch m atter for painful reflection.
H o w is it that the presence o f one m an m ore or less should afiect
• T h is e p ith e t is a p p lie d to th e p a rty o f a C o lo n e l so m e b o d y, in a D u b lin p ap er.
230
a set o f people com e to years o f m anhood, an d kn o w in g that they
have their d uty to do ? W h y should a m an at A hascragh let his
hom e go to ruin, and stuff his w indow s w ith ragged breeches instead
o f glass, because M r. Sm ith is agen t in p lace o f M r. J o n e s? Is he a
child, that won’t w ork unless the schoolm aster b e at h an d ? or arc we
to suppose, with the “ R epealers,” that the cause o f a ll this degradation
and m isery is tlie intolerable t>Tanny o f the sister co u n tiy, and the
pain w hich poor Irelan d has been m ade to e n d u re? T h is is very well
at the C o m E xch an ge, and am ong patriots after d in n e r ; but, after
all, granting the grievan ce o f the franchise (though it m ay not be
unfair to presum e that a man w ho has n o t strength o f m ind cnoufî
to m end his own breeches or his own w indow s w ill alw ays be the
tool o f one p arty or another), there is no In quisition set up in the
co u n tr)': the law tries to defend the p eo p le as m uch as they will
a llo w ; the odious tithe has even been w hisked o ff from their
shoulders to the landlords’ ; th ey m ay live p retty m uch as they likeIs it not too m onstrous to how l about E n glish tyrann y an d sufeiag
Ireland, and call for a Stephen’s G reen Parliam ent to make Ae
coun try quiet and the p eop le industrious ?
T h e peop le arc not
p o litically worse treated than their neighbours in E n gland.
The
priests and the landlords, i f they chose to co-operate, m ight do more
for the coun try n ow than an y kin gs or law s could .
W h a t yo u want
here is not a C a th o lic or P rotestan t party, b u t an Irish party.
In the m idst o f these reflections, and b y w h at the reader will
doubtless think a blessed interm ption, w e cam e in sight o f th e town
o f Ballinasloe an d its “ gash-lam ps,” w hich a fellow -passenger d id not
fail to point out with adm iration. T h e road-m enders, how ever, d id not
appear to think that light was b y an y m eans n ece ssa ry : for, h a vin g been
occup ied, in the m orning, in diggin g a fine hole up on the h ighw ay, pre
vious to som e alterations to b e effected there, th e y had left th e ir w ork
at sun-down, w ithout any lam p to warn co m in g travellers o f th e h o le—
w hich we only escaped b y a w onder. T h e papers h ave m u d i such
another story.
In the G alw ay and B allin asloe co a ch a h o rse o n the
road suddenly fell dow n and d i e d ; the coachm an d ro v e h is c o a d i
unicom -fashion into town ; and, as fo r the dead horse, o f co u rse h e
left it on the road at the p lace w here it fell, an d w here a n o th er c o a d i
com in g up w as upset over it, bones broken , passengers m aim ed,
coach smashed.
B y heavens 1 the tyran n y o f E n gla n d is un en
durable ; and I h ave no doubt it had a hand in up setting th at co a ch .
( -31
CH APTER
BALLINASLOE
X X I II.
TO
DUBLIN.
INURING the cattle-fair the celebrated town o f Ballinasloe is thronged
farmers from all parts o f the kin gd o m — the cattle bein g p ic
turesquely exh ib ited in the park o f the n oble proprietor o f the town,
Jx)rd Clancarty.
A s it was n ot fair-time the town did not seem par
ticularly busy, nor w as there m uch to rem ark in it, excep t a church,
and a m agnificent lunatic asylum , that lies outside the towm on the
D ublin road, and is as handsom e and stately as a palace. I think
f t e beggars w ere m ore plenteous and m ore loathsom e here than
almost anyw'here. T o one hideous w retch I was o bliged to give
money to g o away, w hich he did for a m om ent, o n ly to obtrude his
horrible face directly afterw ards h a lf eaten aw ay with disease. “ A
penny for the sake o f poor little M ery,” said another wom an, w ho had
a b a b y sleepin g on her w ithered b r e a s t ; and how can any one w h o
has a little M ery at hom e resist such an appeal ?
“ P ity the p o o r
blind m an !” roared a respectably dressed grenadier o f a fellow. I
told h im to g o to the gentlem an with a red n eck cloth and fur cap
(a y o u n g b u ck from T rin ity C o lle g e)— to whom the blind man witii
m uch sim plicity im m ediately stepped o v e r ; and as for the rest o f the
b eggars, w hat pen or pen cil could describe their hideous leering
flattery , their cringing, sw indling hum our !
T h e inn, lik e the tow n, b ein g m ade to accom m odate the p eriodical
c r o w d s o f visitors w ho attended the fair, presented in their absen ce
ra th e r a faded and desolate lo o k ; and in spite o f the live-stock for
w h ic h the p lace is fam ous, the o n ly portion o f their produce w hich I
c o u ld g e t to m y share, after tw elve hours’ fasting and an hour’s bellrin g in g and scolding, was one very lean m utton-chop and one very
s m a ll dam p kid n ey, brought in b y an old tottering w aiter to a table
s p re a d in a huge b la ck coffee-room , d im ly ligh ted b y one little je t
o f gas.
A s this o n ly served very fain tly to ligh t up the ab ove banquet,
t h e w aiter, upon rem onstrance, p ro ceed ed to ligh t the other
bee;
b u t the lam p w as sulky, and upon this attem pt to force it, as it were,.
232
refused to act altogether, and went o u t T h e b ig ro o m was then
accommodated with a couple o f y ello w m utton-candlcs. There was *
a neat, handsome, correct young English officer w arm ing his slippers
at the fire, and opposite him sat a w orthy gen tlem an , w ith a glass
of “ mingled materials,” discoursing to him in a v e ry friendly and
confidential Avay.
As I don’t know the gentleman’s nam e, an d a s it is not at all
improbable, from the situation in w hich h e w as, th a t h e has quite
forgotten the night’s conversation, I hop e there w ill b e n o breach of
confidence in recalling some part of i t T h e sp eaker w as dressed in
deep black— worn, hoAvcA'er, Avith that degag^ air p ecu liar to the votaries
of Bacchus, or that nameless god, offspring o f B acch u s and Ceres,
Avho may have invented the noble liquor ca lled w hisky. I t was fine
to see the easy folds in which his n eck clo th confined a shirt-collar
moist Avith the generous drops that trick led from th e chin above,— its
little per-centage upon the punch. T h e re w as a fine ( ^ h i n g blacksatin waistcoat that called for its share, and gen ero u sly disdained to
be buttoned. I think this is the only specim en I h ave seen yet of
the personage still so frequently described in the Irish novels— Ac
careless drinking squire— the Irish Will W him ble.
“ Sir,” says he, “ as I Avas telling you before this gentlem an came
in (from Westport, I preshume, sir, by the m a il? a n d m y service to
y o u !), the butchers in Tchume (Tuam)— w here I live, a n d shall be
happy to see you and give you a shakedow n, a cu t o f m utton, and
the use of as good a brace o f pointers as ever y o u sh o t over— A c
butchers say to me, Avhenever I lo o k in at their sh o p s a n d adr for
a joint of meat— they sa y : ‘ T a k e dow n that quarther o’ m utton, boy 5
i t ’s n o u s e a v e ig h in g i t for M r. B odkin .
H e ca n tell w ith an cy«
whats the Aveight of it to an oun ce 1* A n d so, sir, I c a n ; and
make a bet to go into a n y m arket in D u b lin , T ch u m e, B a llin a s la ^
Avhere you please, and just b y lo o k in g a t th e m eat d ecid e
weight.”
A t the pause, during w hich the gen tlem an h ere d e s i g n a t e
B odkin drank o ff his “ m aterials,” the y o u n g officer said ^ v e l y t b ^
this was a very rare and valuable accom plishm en t, an d th an ked h £ .^
for the invitation to T ch u m e.
an d
T h e honest gen tlem an p ro ceed ed w ith his personal m e m o ir^
{with a chan n in g m odesty that authen ticated his tale, while
interested his hearers fo r the teller) he ca lled for a fresh t u m b l e
A GOOD OLD IRISH GENTLEMAN.
233
ind began discoursin g abou t horses. “ T h e m I d o n ’t kn ow ,”
says
le , con fessin g the fact at o n c e ; “ or, i f I do, I V e b e en alw ays so
in lu ck y w ith them that it’s as g o o d as if I didn’t.
“ T o g iv e yo u an idea o f m y ill-fortune : M e brother-’n-law B urke
once sent m e three co lts o f his to sell at this very fair o f B allin asloe,
in d for all I could do I co u ld o n ly ge t a b id for one o f ’em , and
sold her for sixteen pounds. A n d d ’y e kn ow w hat that m are was,
s i r ? ” says M r. B o d kin , givin g a thum p that m ade the spoon jum p
3ut o f the punch-glass for frig h t
W ater-W agtail,
sir,— W
“ D ’ye kn ow w ho she w as ? she w as
! She w on fourteen cups
a t e r -W a g t a i l
ind plates in Irelan d before she w en t to L iv e r p o o l; and you kn ow
.vhat she d id t h e r e (W e said, “ O h ! o f course.” ) “ W ell, sir,
:he m an w h o bought her from m e sold her for four hunderi g u in e a s ;
ind in E n gland she fetched eight bunder’ pounds.
“ A n o th er o f them very horses, gen tlem en (T im , som e h ot
Aâther— screech in g hot, yo u d ivil— and a sthroke o f the lim in)—
m other o f them horses that I w as refused fifteen p ound for, m e
3rother-in-law
sould to Sir R u ffo rd Bufford for a hunder’-and-fifty
^ in eas. W asn ’t that lu ck ?
“ W ell, sir. Sir R u fford giv es B urke his b ill at six m onths, and
rlon’t p ay it w hen it com e ju e. A p retty p ick le T o m B urke w as in,
as I leave y e to fancy, for he’d paid aw ay the bill, w hich he thought
as good as g o o ld ; and sure it ought to be, for Sir R ufford had to m e
of age since the bill was draw n, and before it w as due, and, as I
needn’t tell you, had slipp ed into a ve ry handsom e property.
“ O n the protest o f the bill, Burke goes in a fury to G resham ’s in
Sackville Street, w here the baron et was living, and (would ye b elieve
it?) the latter says he doesn ’t intend to m eet the bill, on the score
that he w as a m inor w hen he ga ve it. O n w hich B urke was in such
^ lage that h e took a horsew hip and vo w ed h e’d beat tlie baronet
^0 a jelly, and p ost him in every club in D u blin, and publish every
-'ircumstance o f the transaction.”
“ It
rearers.
does seem rather a queer one,” says one o f M r. B o dkin ’s
“ Q u eer in deed : b u t that’s n ot it, yo u s e e ; for S ir R u fford is as
‘O nourable a m an as ever lived ; and after this quarrel he p aid B urke
m oney, and they’v e been w arm friends ever since.
B ut w hat
Avant to show y e is our infernal luck.
Three months before. Sir
^Hfford had sold that very horsefor three hundeP guineasP
234
th e
T h e w orthy gen tlem an had ju st ordered in a fr c d i tutaiblcr of hb
favourite liquor, w hen we w ished him good-night, a n d dep t by no
m eans the w orse, because the bed-room ca n d le w as carried b y one of
the prettiest yo u n g cham berm aids possible.
N e x t m orning, surrounded b y a crow d o f b e gga rs more fiUqri
hideous, and im portunate than an y I thin k in th e m ost fitvooied
towns o f the south, we set off, a coach-load, for D u b lin . A d o g y
man, a guard, a S co tch farmer, a butcher, a b o o k selle r’s hack, a lad
boun d for M ayn ooth and another for T rin ity, m a d e a varied,
pleasant p arty enough, w here each, acco rd in g to his li^ ts , had
som ething to say.
I h ave seldom seen a m ore dism al and uninteresting road Aaa
that w hich we now took, and w hich brought us through the “ oU,
in conven ien t, ill-built, and u g ly toivn o f A th lo n e ." IT ie painlff
w ou ld find here, how ever, som e g o o d subjects for his sketch-book,
in spite o f the com m ination o f the G uide-book. H e re , too, gwat
im provem ents are taking p lace for the Shannon navigation, whki
w ill render the town n ot so in conven ien t as at presen t it is stated to
be ; and hard b y lies a little village that is kn ow n a n d loved by all
th e w orld w here E n glish is spoken. I t is ca lled L ish o y , but its leal
nam e is A uburn, and it gave birth to o n e N o ll G oldsm ith , whom
M r. B osw ell was in the habit o f despising v e ry heartily. A t the
Q u ak er tow n o f M o ate, the butcher an d th e farm er d rop p ed off, the
clergym an w ent inside, and their p laces w ere filled b y four Mj^noothians, w hose vacation was ju st a t an end. O n e o f them,
a
freshm an, w as inside the co ach w ith the clergym an , an d told him,
w ith rather a lo n g face, o f the dism al discipline o f his co llq ;e . They
are n ot allow ed to quit the gates (excep t o n gen eral w a lk s ); they are
exp elled if they read a n e w s p a p e r; and th e y b ^ n term with “ a
re tre a t” o f a w eek, w hich tim e th ey are m ade to d e v o te to siloicc,
and, as it is supposed, to devotion and m editation.
I must say the yo u n g fellow s dran k p len ty o f w h isky o n the road,
to prepare them for their year’s a b stin e n c e ; and, w hen a t le n g th
arrived in the m iserable village o f M aynooth, determ ined n ot to gD
in to co llege that night, b u t to d e vo te the even in g to “ a la rk .” They
w ere sim ple, kind-hearted yo u n g m en, sons o f farm ers o r tradesnaen
s e e m in g ly ; and, as is alw ays the case h ere, excq> t a m o n g so m e o f A e
gentry, v e ry gen tlem an like an d p leasin g in m anners.
T heir talk
w as o f this com panion and th a t; h o w o n e w as in rhetoric^
THE M A YN O O TH STUDENTS.
235
nother in logic, and a tliird had g o t his curacy. W ait for a w h ile ;
nd w ith the happy system pursued w ithin the w alls o f their co lleg e,
lose sm iling, good-hum oured faces w ill com e out with a scow l, and
owncast eyes that seem afraid to lo o k the w orld in the face. W h en
lie tim e com es for them to tak e leave o f yo n d er dism al-looking
arracks, th ey w ill be m en no longer, but boun d over to the church,
•ody and s o u l: their free thoughts chained dow n and kep t in d ark
less, their honest affections m utilated. W ell, I hope they w ill b e
appy to-night at a n y rate, and talk and laugh to their hearts’
ontent. T h e p o or freshm an, w hose b ig chest is carried o ff b y the
lorter yo n d er to the inn, has but tw elve hours m ore o f hearty,
atural, hum an life. T o-m orrow , they w ill begin their w ork upon
im ; cram ping his m ind, and bitin g his tongue, and firing and
utting at his heart,— b reakin g him to pull the chu rch chariot. A h !
'hy didn ’t h e stop at hom e, and d ig potatoes and g e t children ?
Part o f the drive from M a}Tiooth to D u blin is exceed in gly p r e tt y :
ou are carried through L eix lip , L u ca n , C h ap elizo d , and b y scores o f
arks and villas, until the gas-lam ps com e in sight.
W as there ever
co ck n e y that was n ot gla d to see t h e m ; and did not prefer the
ght o f them, in his heart, to the best lake or m ountain ever invented ?
'at the w-aiter com es ju m p in g dow n to the car and says, “ W elco m e
ack, s i r ! ” and bustles the trunk into the queer little bedroom , w ith
11 the cord ial hospitality im aginable.
236
C H A P T E R X X IV .
IW O DAYS IN WICKLOW.
T h e little tour w e h ave ju st been tak in g has b een performed, not
on ly b y m yriads o f the “ car-drivingest, tay-drinkingest, say-bathingest
peop le in the w orld,” the inhabitants o f A e c ity o f Dublin, but also
b y all tlie tourists w ho h ave com e to d isco ver this country for the
benefit o f the E nglish nation. “ L o o k h e r e ! ” says the nggdi
bearded genius o f a gu ide at the Seven C hurches. ** This is the spot
w hich Mr. H e n ry In glis particularly adm ired, an d said it was exactly
like N orw ay. M a n y ’s the song I ’v e heard M r. Sam L o v e r sing here
— a pleasant gentlem an entirely. H a v e yo u seen my picture thaft
taken o ff in M rs. H a ll’s b o o k ? All the strangers know me by it*
though it m akes m e m uch cleverer than I am.” Similar tales has he
o f M r. Barrow, and the T ran satlan tic W illis, and of Crofton Crokefi
w ho has been everyw here.
T h e gu ide’s rem arks concerning the works of these gendemen
inspired m e, I must confess, ivith considerable disgust and jealoo^*
A plague take t h e m ! w hat remains for me to discover after the
gallan t adventurers in the service of Paternoster Row have examined
every rock, lake, and ruin of the district, exhausted it of all iti
legends, and “ invented new ” most likely, as their daring geniui
prom pted ? H e n ce it follow s that the description of the two daysf
ja u n t must o f n ecessity be short; lest persons who have read fbnner
a cco u n ts should b e led to refer to the same, and make comparisons
w hich m ight p ossibly b e unfavourable to the present humble pages
Is there anythin g new to be said regarding the jo u m ^ ? In die
first place, there’s the ra ilro a d : it’s no longer than the railroad 10
G reenw ich, to be sure, and almost as well known; but has it been
done ? that’s the q u e s tio n ; or has anybody discovered the dandies
on the railroad ?
A fte r w ondering at the beggars and carmen of Dublin, the stiaiigff
ca n ’t help adm iring another vast and numerous dass o f inhaWtaBts
o f the city— nam ely, the dandies. Such a number o f sm arU y-d resred
young fellow s I don’t think any town possesses: no^ not Foris^ wberfi
D U BLIN DANDIES.
237
ung shopm en, w ith spurs and stays, m ay b e rem arked strutting
1 on fe te -d a y s; n or L on d o n , w here on Sundays, in the Park,
e thousands o f this cheap kin d o f aristocracy p a r a d in g ; nor
)Ool, fam ous for the breed o f com m ercial dandies, d e sk and
:r D ’O rsays an d cotton and sugar-barrel Brum m els, and w hom
m arks pushing on to business w ith a brisk determ ined air. A ll
ove races are o n ly to b e encountered on holidays, e x ce p t b y
persons w hose affairs tak e them to shops, docks, o r countingj, w here these fascinating youn g fellow s labour during the
it the D u b lin breed o f dandies is quite distinct from those o f
irious cities a b o v e nam ed, and altogether s u p e r io r: for they
: every day, and all d ay long, not once a w eek m erely, and have
ginal and splendid character and appearance o f their own, v e ry
0 describe, though n o do u b t every traveller, as w ell as m yself,
im ired an d observed it. T h e y assum e a sort o f m ilitary and
)us lo o k, n ot observable in other cheap dandies, excep t in
perhaps now and t h e n ; and are to b e rem arked n o t so m uch
2 splendour o f their ornam ents as for the profusion o f them,
for instance, a hat w hich is w orn straight o ver the tw o eyes
/ery lik e ly m ore than one w hich hangs upon one e a r ; a great
ish o f hair to balan ce the hat (otherwise the head no doubt
fall hop elessly on one side) is even m ore econom ical than a
/hich requires the barber’s scissors oft-times ; also a tuft on the
la y b e had at a sm all expen se o f bear’s-grease b y persons o f a
* a g e ; and although b ig pins are the fashion, I am bound to
h a ve never seen so m any or so b ig as here.
L arge agate
5S or “ taw s,” globes terrestrial and celestial, paw nbrokers’ balls,
innot find com parisons large enough for these wonderful om ao f the person. C an es also should b e m entioned, w hich are
êry splendid, with go ld or silver heads, for a shilling on the
;; and the dandy not uncom m only finishes o ff w ith a horn
ng-glass, w hich b ein g stuck in one e ye contracts the brow s and
a fierce determ ined lo o k to tlie w hole countenance.
1 idleness at least these yo u n g m en can com p ete with the
:st lords ; and the w onder is, how the city can support so m any
im, or th ey th e m se lv e s; how th ey m anage to spend their t im e :
lives them m on ey to ride h acks in the “ P h ayn ix ” on field and
la y s ; to have boats at K in gsto w n during the su m m e r; and to
238
be crow din g the railw ay-coaches all the d a y lo n g ? C a n g o whiiliqg
abou t all day, bearing squads o f them . Y o u see th em sannfceriqg
a t all the railway-stations in vast num bers, a n d ju m p in g o u t o f the
carriages as the trains co m e up, and greetin g o th er d an d ies v id i that
rich large brogue w hich som e a cto r o ught to m ake kn ow n to the
E nglish p ublic : it b ein g the biggest, richest, a n d co arsest o f all the
brogues o f Ireland.
I thin k these dandies are the ch ie f o b je cts w h ich anest the
stranger’s attention as he travels on th e K in g sto w n railroad, andI
h ave alw ays been so m uch o ccup ied in w atch in g a n d wondering at
them as scarcely to h ave leisure to lo o k a t an yth in g e lse during Aa
p retty little ride o f tw'enty m inutes so b e lo v ed b y every Dnbfin
co ck n e y. T h e w'aters o f the b a y w ash in m any p laces the p i a i «
w hich the railw ay is built, and yo u see th e ca lm stretch o f waW
b eyo n d , and the b ig purple hill o f H o w th , an d th e lighthouses, and
the jetties, and the shipping. Y e ste rd a y w as a boat-race, (I daft
kn ow how m any scores o f such take p lace during the season,) an
d
you m ay b e sure there w ere tens o f thousands o f the dandies to look
on. T h e re had been boat-races th e tw o days p re v io u s ; before Aat,
had been a field d ay— before that, three d a y s o f garrison races—
to-day, to-morrow, and tlie d ay after, there are races a t H ow di. There
seem s som e sam eness in the sports, b u t ever}’b o d y g o e s ; cverybo^
is n ever t ir e d ; and then, I suppose, com es th e punch-party, and Ac
song in the evenin g— the sam e o ld pleasures, and the sam e old soop
the n ext day, and so on to the end. A s for the boat-race, I saw
tw'o little boats in the distan ce tugging aw ay for dear life— the bcadi
and piers sw'arming w ith spectators, the b a y full o f smaU yad its and
innum erable row-boats, and in the m idst o f th e assem blage a convict'
ship lyin g read y for sail, w ith a b la ck m ass o f p o o r w retches oa her
d e c k — w ho, too, w'ere eager for pleasure.
W h o is not, in this co u n try ?
W a lk in g aw ay from th e pier and
K in g G eo rge ’s colum n, yo u arrive upon row s after row s o f pleasiB«“
houses, w hither all D u b lin flocks during th e summer-time— for eveiT
one m ust have his sea-b ath in g; and th e y say th at the co u n tiy honic*
to the w est o f the tow n are em pty, o r to b e h ad for v e ry sm all p a t o
w hile for those on the coast, esp ecially tow ards K in gsto w n , there
the readiest sale at large prices.
I have p aid frequent visits to
o f w hich th e rent is as great a s that o f a tolerable L o n d o n houi®J
and there seem to b e others suited to all p u rs e s : fo r instance^ A**®
BRA Y.
239
lines o f two-room ed houses, stretch ing far b a ck and aw ay
sea, accom m odating, doubtless, sm all com m ercial m en, or
ilies, or som e o f those travelling dandies w e have ju st been
»out, and w hose costum e is so cheap and so splendid.
)-horse car, w hich w ill accom m odate tw elve, or w ill conto receive tw enty passengers, starts from the railway-station
running alon g the coast for the ch ie f part o f the journ ey,
)u h ave but few view s o f the sea, on accoun t o f intervening
id hills.
T h e w hole o f this country is covered w ith handas and their gardens, and pleasure-grounds.
T h e re are
in y o f the houses parks o f som e extent, and alw ays o f
ble beauty, am ong the trees o f w hich the road winds. N ew
are likew ise to b e seen in various p la c e s ; built like the
jes, that are likew ise everyw here springing up, pretty m uch
: p lan — a sort o f bastard or V a u x h all G o th ic— resem bling no
ire o f an y age previous to that w hen H o race W alp ole
the C a stle o f O tran to and the other m onstrosity upon
ry H i l l : though it must be confessed that those on the B ray
)y no m eans so im aginative.
W ell, w hat m atters, say you,
:hurches b e ugly, if the truth is preached w ithin ? Is it not
ever, to say that B eau ty is the truth too, o f its kin d ? and
lid it n ot be cultivated as w ell as other truth ? W h y build
eous barbaric tem ples, w hen at the expense o f a little study
: beautiful structures m ight b e raised ?
leavin g Bray, w ith its pleasant bay, and pleasant river, and
inn, the little W ick lo w tour m ay b e said to com m ence proid , as that rom antic and beautiful country has been described
les in fam iliar terms, our only chance is to speak th ereof in
a n d beautiful language, such as no other wTiter can p ossibly
ployed.
rang at the gate of the steward’s lodge and said, “ Grant
5, we pray, to see the parks of Powerscourt, and to behold
vn deer upon the grass, and the cool shadows under the
ng trees.”
the stew ard’s son answ ered, “ Y o u m ay n ot see the parks o f
ourt, for the lord o f the castle com es hom e, and w e exp ect
y.” So, w ondering at this reply, but not understanding the
re to o k leave o f the son o f the stew ard and said, “ N o
ôwerscourt is not fit to see.
H a v e w e n ot seen parks in
240
TH E IRISH SK E T C H B O O K
E n gland, m y brother, and shall we break our hearts that this Iridi
one hath its gates closed to us ? ”
T h e n the c a r b o y said, “ M y lords, the park is shut, but the
waterfall runs for every m a n ; w ill it please you to see the waterfiill?”'
“ B o y ,” w e replied, “ w e have seen many water&lls; neverthden^
lead o n ! ” A n d the b o y to o k his pipe out of his mouth and behr
boured the ribs o f his beast.
A n d the horse m ade believe, as it were, to trot, and jolted the
ardent tra v e lle r s ; and w e passed the green trees o f Tinnehindi,
w hich the grateful Irish nation bought and consecrated to the race of
G ra tta n ; and Ave said, “ What nation will spend fifty thousand
p ounds for our b e n e fit? ” an d we wished we might get i t ; and we
passed on.
T h e birds Avere, meanwhile, chanting concerts in the
AV'oods ; and the sun was double-gilding the golden com.
A n d Ave cam e to a hill, Avhich was sleep and long of d escen t; and
th e car-boy said, “ M y lords, I m ay never descend this hill with safety
to your honours’ b o n e s : for m y horse is not sure of foot, and loves
to k n eel in the highw ay. Descend therefore, and I will await your
return here on the top o f the h ill.”
So Ave descen ded, and one grumbled greatly; but the other said,
“ Sir, b e o f go o d h ea rt ! the way is pleasant, and the footman will
n ot Aveary as he travels it.” And we went through the swingii^
gates o f a park, Avhere the harvest-men sate at their potatoes— a
mealy m eal.
T h e Avay was n ot short, as the companion said, but still it was
a pleasant AA'ay to Avâlk. Green stretches of grass were there^ and
a forest nigh at hand. It Avas but September: yet the autumn had
already begun to turn the green trees into red; and the ferns diat
w ere Av'aving underneath the trees were reddened and fading tfxx.
A n d as D r. Jon es’s boys of a Saturday disport in the meadows
after school-hours, so did the little clouds run races over the waviqg
grass. A n d as grave ushers who look on smiling at the sports of
these little ones, so stood the old trees around the green, wfaiqieriiv
and nod ding to one another.
P u rp le m ountains rose before us in front, and we began presendy
to hear a noise and roaring afar o ff— ^not a fierce roaring but one
d eep and calm , like to the respiration o f the great sea, as he fin
bask in g on the sands in the sunshine.
A n d w e cam e soon to a little hillock of green, which was
standhV
POWERSCOURT W ATERFALL.
241
b e fo re a h u ge m ountain o f purple b la ck , and there w ere w hite clouds
o v e r th e m ountains, and som e trees w aving on the hillock, and
b e tw e e n the trunks o f them w e saw the waters o f the waterfall
d e s c e n d in g ; and there was a snob on a rock, w ho stood and
e x a m in e d the same.
T h e n w e approached the water, passing the clum p o f oak-trees.
T h e w aters w ere w hite, and the cliffs w hich they varnished were
purple. B ut those round about were gray, tall, and ga y w ith blue
shadow s, and ferns, heath, and rusty-coloured funguses sprouting
here and there in the same. B ut in the ravine where the waters fell,
roaring as it w ere w ith the fall, the rocks were dark, and the foam
o f the cataract was o f a yello w colour. A n d we stood, and were
silent, and w ondered. A n d still the trees continued to vrave, and the
ivaters to roar and tum ble, and the sun to shine, and the fresh wind
to blow.
And we stood and lo o ked : and said in our hearts it was beautiful,
and bethought us how shall all this be set down in types and ink ?
(for our trade is to write books and sell the sam e— â chapter for a
guinra, a line for a p e n n y ) ; and the waterfall roared in answer,
“ For shame, O vain m a n ! think not o f thy bo o ks and o f thy pen ce
*H)w; but lo o k on, and w onder, and b e silen t C a n types or in k
describe m y beauty, though aided b y thy sm all w it? I am m ade for
to praise and w onder a t : b e content, and cherish thy w onder,
is enough that thou hast seen a great th in g : is it needful that thou
**H>uldst prate o f all thou hast s e e n ? ”
16
242
So w e cam e aw ay silently, and w alk ed through th e pork without
lookin g back.
A n d there w as a m an at the gate, w h o opened it and
seem ed to say, “ G ive m e a little sixp ence.” B u t w e gave nothii^
and w alked up the hill, w hich was sore to c lim b ; an d on the snmmk
found the car-boy, w ho was lolling on his cushions a n d smoking; li
happy as a lord.
Q uittin g the w aterfall at Pow erscourt (the gran d style in which it
has been described was adopted in order that the r ^ e r , who h*s
probably read other descriptions o f the spot, m ight h a ve a t least
thing new in this accoun t o f it), w e speedily left behind u s Ac
rich and w ooded tract o f country about Pow erscourt, a n d came toft
bleak tract, w hich, perhaps b y w ay o f contrast w ith so much natnul
wealth, is not unpleasing, and began ascen ding w hat is veiy pipprif
called the L o n g H ill. H ere you see, in the m idst o f th e londAtfS^
a grim -looking barrack, that w as erected w hen, after th e RebeUioD, it
w as necessary for som e tim e to occu p y this m ost rebellious counUy;
and a church, lookin g equally dism al, a lean -looking sham-GoAk
building, in the m idst o f this green d e se rt T h e ro a d to Lng|pki
w hither we were bound, turns o ff the L o n g H ill, up a n other hill,whick
seem s still longer and steeper, inasm uch as it was ascended peifcfOft
on foot, and over lonely b o g g y m oorlands, enlivened Iqr a huge g n j
boulder plum ped here and there, and com es, one wonders how, to Ac
spot
C lose to this hill o f S lievebu ck, is m arked in the maps ft
district called “ the uninhabited country,” and these stones probftHlf
fell at a period o f time w hen n ot o n ly this district, but all A c wodJ
was uninhabited,— and in som e convulsion of the netg^boming mooft*
tains this and other enorm ous ro ck s w ere cast abroad.
som diow, asisc
always Imking
F rom behind one o f them , or out o f th e groun d
w en t up the hill, sprang little ragged guides, w h o are
about in search o f stray p en ce from tourists; and w e h a d t h m
VULGAR HISTORIES.
243
i such at
our b a ck b y the tim e w e w ere at th.e top o f the hill. A lm o st
\e first sight w e saw w as a smart coach-and-four, with a lovin g w eddingaity within, and a gen teel valet and lad y’s-maid without. I w ondered
lad they been burying their m odest loves in the uninhabited district ?
hi presently, from the top o f the hill, I saw the p lace in w hich
heir honeym oon had been passed : n or could an y pair o f lovers, n or
Lpious herm it b en t on retirem ent from the w orld, have selected a
nore sequestered s p o t
Standing b y a b ig shining granite stone on the hill-top, w e lo o ked
mmediately dow n upon L ou gh T a y — a little round lake o f h a lf a m ile
n length, w hich lay beneath us as b la ck as a p o ol o f in k— a high,
A m bling, white-sided m ountain falling abruptly into it on the side
opposite to us, w ith a huge ruin o f shattered rocks at its base. N orthivards, we co u ld see betw een m ountains a portion o f the neighbouring
lake of L ou gh D a n — w hich, too, w as dark, though the A nn am oe river,
'^hich con nects the tw o lakes, la y coursing through the greenest
possible flats and shining as bright as silver.
Brilliant green shores,
loo, come ge n tly down to the southern side o f L o u gh T a y ; through
Ihese runs another river, with a sm all rapid or fall, w hich m akes a
music for the la k e ; and here, am idst beautiful w oods, lies a villa, w here
Ihe four horses, the groom and valet, the postilions, and the y o u n g
couple had, no doubt, been hidin g them selves.
H ereabouts, the ow ner o f the villa, M r. L atouche, has a great
grazing establishm ent; and som e herd-boys, no doubt seeing strangers
on the hill, thought proper that the cattle should stray that w ay, that
they m ight drive them b a ck again, and p arenthetically ask the
travellers for m oney,— everybody asks travellers for m oney, as it
seems. N e x t day, adm iring in a labourer’s arms a little child— ^his
master’s son, w ho could n ot speak— ^the labourer, his he-nurse, sp ok e
for him, and dem anded a little sixpence to b u y the child apples. O n e
grows n ot a little callous to this sort o f b e g g a ry ; and the only one
of our num erous youn g guides w ho go t a reward w as the raggedest o f
them. H e and his com panions had just com e from school, he said,
-^not a G overn m en t school, but a private one, w here they paid. I
asked how m uch,— “ W as it a p en ny a w eek ? ”
“ N o ; n ot a p en ny
a week, b ut so m uch a t the end o f the year.” “ W as it a barrel o f
meal, or a few stone o f p otatoes, or som ething o f that sort ? ” “ Y e s ;
something o f that s o r t”
The som ething must, how ever, h ave been a v e ry sm all som ething
244
the
on the poor lad’s part.
H e was one o f four y o u n g oocs^ who Uwd
with their mother, a widow.
H e had no w o r k ; h e could get no
w o r k ; nobody had work. H is m other had a cabin w ith no land—
not a perch o f land, no potatoes— nothing b ut the cabin . H o t did
they live ?— the m other knitted stockings. I a sk e d had she any
stockings at home ?— the boy said, “ N o .” H o w did h e live?—h e ''
lived how he could ; and w e gave him threepence, w ith which, in
delight, he went bounding o ff to the poor mother. G racicais heavens!
what a history to hear, told b y a child lookin g quite cheerful as hfi
told it, and as if the story was quite a com m on one. A n d a comnioa
one, too, it i s : and G od forgive us*
H ere is another, and o f a sim ilar low kind, b ut rather pleasanta
W e asked the car-boy how much he earned.
He
said, “ Seven
shillings a w eek, and his chances ”— which, in the sum m er season, ho®
the num ber o f tourists who are jo lte d in his car, m ust b e toleialJ^f
go o d — eight or nine shillings a w eek m ore, probably. B ut, he said, iu
inter his master did not hire him for the c a r ; and he was o h l ^
to lo o k for w ork e lse w h ere : as for saving, he n ever had saved a
shilling in his life.
W e asked him was he m arried? and he said, N o , b ut he was®'
good as married; for he had an old m other and four little brothers to
keep, and six m ouths to feed, and to dress him self d ecen t to drive the
gentlem en. W as not the “ as good as married ” a pretty expression? and
might not som e o f what are called their betters Iearn a little good ho®
these simple poor creatures? T h ere’s m any a youn g fellow who sets up
in the world w ould think it rather hard to h ave four brothers to sup*
p o rt; and 1 have heard more than one gen teel Christian p inin g over five
liundred a year. A few such m ay read this, p erh a p s: let them think
o f the Irish w idow with the four children and mthing, and at least be
more contented with their port and s h e n y and their le g o f mutton.
T h is brings us at o n ce to the subject o f dinner and the little
village, R oundw ood, w hich was reached b y this tim e, ly in g a few
m iles o ff from the lakes, and reached b y a road n ot particulidy
rem arkable for an y picturesqueness in b e a u t y ; though you ptfJ
through a sim ple, pleasing landscape, alw ays agreeable as a repose 1
think, after view'ing a sight so beautiful as those m ountain lakes t c
have just quitted.
AH the hills up w hich w e had p an ted
hnA
im parted a fierce sensation o f h u n g e r; and it was n o b ly decreed lh*t
w e should stop in the m iddle o f the street o f R oun dw ood , impaitmllf
THE
T H E A TRE.
245
^ct^vcc:l the t w o liotcl^, a n d s o l e mn l y d e c i de upon a re^tine-]>lace after
Itaving inspected the larders and bedroom s o f each.
And here, as an im partial writer, I must say that the hotel o f
Mr. W heatly possesses attractions w hich few m en can resist, in the
shape o f tw o very handsom e youn g ladies his daughters ; w hose faces,
were they b u t pain ted on his signboard, instead o f the m ysterious
piece w hich ornam ents it, w ould infallibly draw tourists into the
house, th ereby giv in g the opposition inn o f M urphy n ot the least
chance o f custom .
A landlord’s daughters in E ngland, inhabiting a little country inn,
would be apt to lay the cloth for the traveller, and their respected
fether w ould brin g in the first dish o f the d in n e r; but this arrangenient is n ev er known in Ireland : w e scarcely ever see the cheering
countenance o f m y landlord. A n d as for the youn g ladies o f R oundwood, I am bound to say that no youn g persons in Baker Street
could b e m ore g e n te e l; and that our bill, when it was brought
tte next m orning, w as \\Titten in as p retty and fashionable a lady’s
hand as ever was form ed in the m ost elegant finishing school at
Fimlico.
O f the dozen houses o f the little village, the h a lf seem to b e
houses o f entertainm ent. A green com m on stretches before these^
with its rural accom panim ents o f geese, pigs, and idlers ; a park and
plantation at the end o f the village, and plen ty o f trees round about
it, g iv e it a happy, com fortable, E n glish lo o k ; w hich is, to m y n otion,
th e best com plim ent that can be paid to a h a m le t: for w here, after
all, are villages so p retty ?
H e re , rather to one’s w onder— for the district was not th ickly
en o u g h p opu lated to encourage dram atic exhibitions— a sort o f theatre
w a s erected on the com m on, a ragged cloth co verin g the spectators
a n d the actors, and the form er (if there w ere any) obtaining adm it
ta n c e through two doors on the stage in front, m arked “ p i t & g a l e r y .”
W h y should the w ord n ot b e spelt w ith one l as with two ?
T h e entrance to the “ p it” w as stated to be threepence, and to the
“ g a le ry ” tw opence. W e heard the drums and pipes o f the orchestra as
w e sate at d in n e r : it seem ed to be a g o o d opportunity to exam ine
Irish hum our o f a p ecu liar sort, and we prom ised ourselves a pleasant
even in g in the p i t
B u t although the drum s began to b eat at half-past six, and a
crow d o f yo u n g p eo p le form ed round the ladder at that hour, t o
TH E IRISH SK E TC H BOOK.
246
w hom the m anager o f the troop addressed the most vehement invi
tations to enter, n obo d y seem ed to be inclined to mount the steps:
for the fact m ost lik e ly was, that not lone o f the poor fdlows pos
sessed the requisite tw opence which would induce the fit old lady
w ho sate b y it to fling open the gallery door. A t one time I thoogjit
o f offering a half-crown for a purchase of tickets for twenty^ and so it
o n ce benefiting the m anager and the crowd of ragged urchins who stood
w istfully w ithout his p a v ilio n ; but it seemed ostentatious, and we hid
not the courage to face the tall m an in the great-coat gesdculitiDg
a n d shouting in front o f the stage, and make the proposition.
Why not ?
It w ould have given the co m p an y potatoes at lost
for supper, and m ade a score o f children happy. They would hifC
seen “ the learned p ig ivho spells yo u r name, the feats of manly
activity, the w onderful Italian v a u ltin g ; ” and they would have heard'
the com ic songs b y “ your hum ble s e r v a n t”
“ Y o u r hum ble servant ” w as the head of the troop: a long mnii
with a broad accen t, a yello w top-coat, and a piteous lean fecc. Whit
a speculation was this poor fellow ’s ! he must have a company of it
least a dozen to keep. T h e re w ere three girls in trousers, who danced
in front o f the stage, in Polish caps, tossing their arms about to the
tunes o f three m u sicia n ers; there was a page, two young tragedyactors, and a clow n ; there w as the fat old woman at
gallery-door
w aiting for the tw o p e n ce s ; there was the Jack Pudding j and it wis
evident that there m ust h ave been some one within, or else who would
take care o f the learned pig?
T h e poor m anager stood in front, and shouted to the little Iridttf
b e n e a th ; but no one seem ed to move. Then he brought forward
J ack Pu ddin g, and had a dialogue with him ; the jocularity of whidi,*
b y heavens ! m ade th e heart ache to hear. We had determined, it
least, to g o to the p lay before that, but the dialogue was too nmch:
w e were obliged to w alk aw ay, unable to fice that dreadful Jad^
Pu ddin g, and heard the p oor manager shouting still for many honrt
through the night, and the drums thumping vain invitations to die
people. O unhappy children of the Hibernian Thespis I it is my bdirf
that they must have eaten the learned pig that night for supped.
I t was Sunday m orning when we left the little inn at Roundwood*
the p eop le were flockin g in numbers to church, on cars and {mUkM*
neat, com fortable, and w ell dressed.
We saw in this country mo*®
health, m ore beauty, and m ore shoes than I have remarked in
TH E D E V IL S G L E N
quarter.
247
T h a t fam ous resort o f sightseers, the D e v il’s G len , lies at a
few miles’ distan ce from the little v illa g e ; and, havin g gon e on the
car as n ear to the sp ot as the road perm itted, w e m ade across the
fields— b o gg y, sto n y , ill-tilled fields they w ere— for about a m ile, at
the end o f w hich w alk w e found ourselves on the brow o f the ravin e
Aat has re ce ive d so ugly a nam e.
Is there a legen d about the p la c e ? N o doubt for this, as for
ilmost every other natural curiosity in Ireland, there is some tale o f
monk, saint, fairy, or d e v il; but our gu ide on the present d a y w as a
banister from D u blin , w ho did not deal in fictions b y an y m eans so
romantic, an d the history, w hatever it was, rem ained untold. P e r
haps the little breechesless cicero n e w ho offered h im self w ould have
?ivcn us the story, b ut w e dism issed the urchin w ith scorn, and h ad
to find our ow n w ay through bush and bram ble dow n to the entrance
of the gully.
H ere w e cam e on a cataract, w hich looks ve ry b ig in M essrs.
Curry’s p retty little G uide-book (that every traveller to W ick lo w w ill
be sure to h ave in his p o c k e t) ; but the waterfall, on this shining
abbath room in g, w as disposed to labour as little as p ossible, and
ndeed is a spirit o f a very hum ble, ordinary sort.
But there is a ravine o f a m ile and a half, tlirough w hich a river
5
runs roaring (a lady w ho keeps the gate w ill not o b ject to receive a
fatuity)— there is a ravine, or D e v il’s glen, Avhich forms a delightful
irild walk, and w here a M ethuselah o f a landscape-painter m ight find
studies for all his life long. A ll sorts o f foliage and colour, all sorts
af delightful caprices o f ligh t and shadow — the river tum bling and
frothing am idst tlie boulders— “ raucura per hevia m urmur saxa ciens,”
md a chorus o f 150,000 birds (there m ight b e m ore), hopping,
tiittering, singing under the clear cloudless Sabbath scene, m ake this
one o f th e m ost delightful that can be t a k e n ; and indeed I
bope there is no liarm in saying that you m ay ge t as m uch out o f an
boar’s w alk there as out o f the best hour’s extem pore preaching.
Sut this w as as a salvo to our con scien ce for n ot bein g at church.
Here, how ever, was a lon g aisle, arched go th ically overhead, in a
much better taste than is seen in som e o f those dism al new chu rch es;
mid, by w ay o f p ainted glass, the sun lightin g up m ultitudes o f
^ o u s-colo u red leaves, and the birds for choristers, and the river b y
of organ, and in it stones enough to m ake a w hole library o f
N o m an can w alk in such a p lace w ithout feeling grateful,
248
.
TH E IRISH SK E TCH BOOK.
and grave, and h u m b le ; and without thanking heaven for it ai he
com es away. A n d , w alkin g and musing in this f m , happy place, one
could n ot help thinking o f a million and a half of brother cockneys
shut up in their huge prison (the tread-mill for the day being idle),
and to ld b y som e legislators that relaxation is sinful, that woiks of
art are abom inations excep t on week-days, and that their pioper
p lace o f resort is a dingy tabernacle, where a loud-voiced man is
how ling about hell-fire in bad grammar. Is not this beautifiil worid,
too, a part o f our religio n ?
Y e s , truly, in whatever way my Lori
John R u ssell m ay v o t e ; and it is to be learned without having
course to any professor at a n y Bethesda, Ebenezer, or Jerusakm;
there can be no m istake about i t ; no terror, no bigoted dealing of
dam nation to one’s n e ig h b o u r: it is taught without folse emphasis or
vain spouting on the preacher’s part— ^how should there be such with
such a preacher ?
T h is w ild onslaught upon serm ons an d preachers needs peiittps
an e x p la n a tio n : for w hich purpose w-e m ust whisk back out of the
D e v il’s G len (im properly so nam ed) to Dublin, and to this day’week,
when, at this very tim e, I heard one of the first preachers of the city
deliver a sermon that lasted for an ho u r and tw en ty m inutes— tiine
enough to w alk up the G len and back, and remark a thousand dcK^ful things b y the w'ay.
M r. G — 7—’s church (though there would be no harm in mention*
in g the gentlem an’s nam e, for a more conscientious and exceUent
m an, as it is said, cann ot be) is close by the Custom House in DuHin,
and crow'ded m orning and evening with his admirers. The service
w-as beautifully read b y him, and the audience joined in the responses,
and in the psalm s and hymns,* with a fervour which is very unusul
in E ngland. T h e n cam e the sermon; and what more can he said o f
it than that it was extem pore, and lasted for an hour and twenty^
m inutes ? T h e orator n ever failed once for a word, so amazing is M»p ractice ; though, as a stranger to this kmd of exercise, I could n o t
• H e re is an e x tra ct from o n e o f th e la tte r—
** H a s te n to so m e d ista n t isle,
In th e b o so m o f th e d ee p .
W h e r e th e sk ie s fo r e v e r sm ile,
And the blacksfor ever we^P
I s it n o t a sh am e th a t such n o n sen sical fiUse tw a d d le should be tmig in a hoasw
o f th e C h u rc h o f E n g la n d , an d b y p e o p le a ssem b le d
grave and decent W oM p ^
E X T E M P O R E P R E A ClILXG.
249
hL'lp tr em blin g f(,>r the i)erformer, as on e lias for M a b a m e Saqih on
the slack-rope, in the m idst o f a blaze o f rockets and squibs, exp ect
ing every m inute she must go over. B u t the artist was too skilled for
that; and after som e trem endous bound o f a m etaphor, in the m idst
of which you exp ect he m ust tum ble n eck and heels, and be engulfed
m the dark abyss o f nonsense, down he was sure to com e, in a m ost
graceful attitude too, in the m idst o f a fluttering “ A h ” from a thousand
wondering people.
1
But I declare solem n ly that w hen I cam e to try and reco llect o f
what the exh ib ition consisted, and giv e an acco u n t o f the serm on
at dinner that evening, it w as quite im possible to rem em ber a w ord
of i t ; although, to d o the orator justice, he repeated m any o f his
opinions a great num ber o f tim es over. T h u s, if he had to discourse
of death to us, it was, “ A t the approach o f the D a rk A n g e l o f the
Grave,” “ A t the com ing o f the grim K in g o f T errors,” “ A t the w arning
of that a^^Tul P o w er to w hom a ll o f us must bow dow n,” “ A t the
summons o f that P a llid Spectre w hose equal fo ot kn o ck s at th e
Dionarch’s tow er or the p o or m an’s cabin ” — and so forth. T h e re is
^ examiner o f plays, and in deed there ought to b e an exam iner o f
sermons, b y w hich audiences are to be fully as m uch injured o r mis
guided as b y the other n am ed exhibitions. A\Tiat ca ll have reverend
gentlemen to repeat their d icta half-a-dozen tim es over, like S ir
Robert P e e l w hen he says anythin g that he fancies to b e w itty ? W h y
are men to b e kep t for an hour and tw en ty m inutes listening to that
which m ay b e m ore effectually said in tw'enty?
And it need n ot b e said here that a church is not a sermonhouse— that it is d evo ted to a purpose m uch m ore lofty and sacred,
for which has been set apart the noblest service, every single w ord o f
which latter has been previously w eigh ed with the m ost scrupulous
and thoughtful reverence. A n d after this sublim e w ork o f genius,
beaming, and p iety is con cluded, is it not a sham e that a m an should
a d esk , w ho has n ot taken the trouble to arrange his w ords
^forehand, an d sp eak thence his crude opinions in his doubtful
P^m rnar? I t w ill b e answ ered that the extem pore p reach er d o e s
deliver crude opinions, but that h e arranges his discourse before^ * ^ d : to all w hich it m ay b e replied that M r. ------ con trad icted
î*nself m ore than once in the course o f the above oration, and
^ppeated h im self a half-dozen o f times. A m an in that p lace has n o
^ h t to say a w ord too m uch or to o little.
250
A n d it com es to this,— it is the preacher the people Mow, not
the p ra y e rs; or w hy is this chu rch more frequented than any other?
I t is that warm em phasis, and word-mouthing, and vulgar iimgay>
and glib rotundity o f phrase, which brings them together and^.kecps
them hap py and breathless. Some of this class call the Cathfdnl
S ervice Paddy's Opera; they say it is Popish— downright.acukl-^
th ey w on ’t g o to it. T h e y w ill have none but. their own hynms-âiid
pretty they are— no ornam ents b u t those of their own ministerrliii
ra n k incense and taw dry rhetoric. Coming out of the church, on the
C u sto m H o u se steps liard b y, there was a fellow with, a .bald iMJjfi
forehead, a new b la ck co a t, a little Bible, spouting— spouting "in
om ne volubilis aevum ”— the very counteipart of the reverend gentla
m an hard by. It was ju st the same thin^ just as well done: fhe
eloqu en ce (luite as easy and round, the amplifications as xttdfi
the b ig w ords rollin g round the tongue just as within doors. W
w e are out o f the D e v il’s Glen -by this tim e; and perhaps, instead
o f deliverin g a serm on there, we had better have been at chmdi
hearing one.
T h e coun try peop le, how ever, are far more pious; and the loai
alon g w hich w e w ent to G len d alo u gh was tlm>nged with hîp)
figures o f p eop le p lod din g to o r fix)m mass. A chapel-yard
co vered with gray c lo a k s ; and a t a little inn hard by, stood numeroo!
carts, cars, shandrydans, and pillioned horses, awaiting the end of lb
prayers. T h e asp ect o f the coun try is wild, and beautiful of coune
b ut w hy try to d escribe it ? I think the Irish scenery just like th
Irish m elodies— sweet, w ild, and sad even in the sunshine.
Youca
n either represent one n or the otlier by words; but I am suce if on
co u ld translate “ T h e M eetin g of the Waters ” into form and
cokm
it w ould fall into the e xa ct shape of a tender Irish landscape. ■
-S
tak e and p lay that tune upon your fiddle, and shut your e 3reS| an
m use a little, and you have the w h o le scene before you,
I don’t know if there is any tune about Glendalough; b u tif die
be, it must be the most delicate, fantastic, fairy melody that everwi
played.
Only fancy can describe the charms of that delightful {dac
Directly you see it, it smiles at you as innocent and friendly at
little child; and once seen, it becomes your friend for ever, and. yc
are always happy when you think of it
Here is a little lake, an
little fords across it, surrounded by little mountains, and tdiidi k t
you now to little islands where there are all sorts of fantastic litded
GLENDALOUGH.
251
iapels and graveyards ; or, again, into little brakes and shrubberies
vhere small rivers are crossing o ver little rocks, plashing and jum png, and singing as loud as ever th ey can. T h o m a s M o o re has
fritten rather an awful description o f i t ; and it m ay in deed appear
)ig to him, an d to the fairies w ho m ust h ave inhabited the p lace in
M days, that’s clear. F o r w ho could b e accom m odated in it excep t
he little p eo p le ?
There are seven churches, w h ereo f the clergy m ust have b een the
anallest persons, an d h ave had the sm allest benefices and the littlest
X)ngregations e ver know n. A s for the cathedral, w hat a bishop let it
nust have been that presided there. T h e p lace w ou ld hardly h old
he Bishop o f L on d o n , or M r. Syd n ey Sm ith— tw o full-sized clergym en
these d a y s— w ho w ould be sure to quarrel there for w ant o f room ,
for a n y other reason.
T h e re m ust h ave been a dean no b igg er
han Mr. M o o re before m entioned, and a chapter no b igger than that
•hapter in “ T ristram S h a n d y ” w hich does not contain a single w ord,
ind mere popgun s o f canons, and a b eadle abou t as tall as C rofton
-roker, to w hip the little boys w ho were p layin g at taw (with peas) in
he yard.
They say there was a university, too, in the place, w ith I don ’t
aiow how m any thousand scholars ; but for accoun ts o f this there is
in excellent gu ide on the spot, w ho, for a shilling or two, w ill tell all
le knows, and a great deal m ore too.
There are num erous legends, too, co n cern in g St. K e v in , and F in
HacCoul an d the D e vil, and the deuce know s what.
B u t these
‘tones are, I am boun d to say, abom inably stupid and s ta le ; and
some guide * ought to b e seized upon and ch o k ed , and flung into the
ake, by w ay o f w arning to the others to stop their interm inable
prate. T h is is the curse attendin g curiosity, for visitors to alm ost all
the show-places in the c o u n try : you h ave n ot only the gu id e— who
^fitnself talks to o m uch— b u t a string o f ragged am ateurs, starting from
and briar, read y to carry his honour’s um brella or m y lady’s
cloak, or to help either up a ban k or across a stream. A n d all the
^hile they lo o k w istfully in your face, saying, “ G ive m e s ix p e n c e ! ”
as clear as lo o ks can speak.
T h e un conscionable rogues ! ho w dare
* It m ust b e said , fo r th e w o rth y fe llo w w h o a c co m p a n ied us, an d w h o ac te d
^ cicerone p re v io u s ly to th e g re a t W i l l i s th e g re a t H a ll, th e g re a t B a rro w , th a t
he w e a rs a r a g g e d co a t h is m ann ers are th o se o f a g e n tle m a n , an d h is c o n
densation ev in ces n o sm a ll ta len t, ta ste, an d sch o larsh ip .
252
TH E IRISH SK E TC H BO O K
they, for the sake o f a little starvation or so, interrupt gentlefolks in
their pleasure !
A lon g tract o f w ild country, with a park or two here and Aae»
a police-barrack perched on a hill, a half-starved-looking draiA
stretching its long scraggy steeple over a wide plain, mountains
Avhose base is richly cultivated Avhile their tops are purple and kmdy,
warm cottages and farms n estling at the foot of the hills, and humUc
cabins here and there on the w ayside, accompany the car, that jinglo
b a ck over fifteen m iles o f groun d through Inniskerry to Bray. Yoo
pass b y w ild gaps and G reater and L esser Sugar Loaves; and abort
eight o ’clo ck , w hen the sky is quite red with sunset, and the long
shadows arc o f such a p u q ile as (th ey may say what they like) Qandc
co u ld no m ore j)aint than I can, yo u catch a glimpse of the sea
beyo n d Bray, and cr}ring out, “ edXarra, OiSXarra ! ” affect to be WOOdrously delighted b y the sight of that element
T'he fact is, how ever, that at Bray is one of the best inns in
Ir e la n d ; and there you m ay be perfectly sure is a good dinner leadyi
five m inutes after the honest car-boy, with innumerable hunroos and
sm acks o f his whip, has brought up his passengers to the door with a
gallop.
A s for the V a le o f A v o ca , I have not described th a t; because (as
has been before o ccasion ally remarked) it is vain to attempt to describe
natural beauties ; and because, seco n d ly (though this is a minor con
sideration), w e did not go thither. But we went on another day to
the D argle, and to Shanganah, and the city of Cabintedy, and to A®
S ca lp — that w ild p a s s : an d I have no more to say about them thin
about the V a le o f A v o c a . The Dublin Cockney, who has these places
a t his door, kn ow s them quite w e l l; and as for the Londoner, who is
m editating a trip to the Rhine for the summer, or to Brittany or
N orm an dy, let us beseech him to see his own countryfirst (if Lori
L yn d h u rst w ill allow us to call this a part of it ) ; and if, after twentyfour hours o f an easy jo u rn e y from London, the Codm ey be not
p laced in the m idst o f a coun try as beautiful, as strange to him, tf
rom antic as the m ost im aginative man on 'Change can
this w ork be p raised b y the critics all round and never readi
secon d edition !
a
(
253
)
CH APTER XXV.
COUNTRY MEETINGS IN KILDARE— MEATH— DROGHEDA.
A n agricultural show was to b e held at the tow n o f N aas, and I was
glad, after h avin g seen the grand exh ibition at C o rk, to b e present at
a more hom ely, unpretending coun try festival, w here the eyes o f
Europe, as the orators say, did not happen to b e lo o kin g on.
Eerhaps m en are apt, under the idea o f this sort o f inspection, to
^tssume an air som ew hat m ore pom pous and m agnificent than that
'vhich th ey w ear every day.
T h e N aas m eeting was con ducted
'vithout the slightest attem pt at splendour or disp lay— a hearty,
fxiodest, matter-of-fact coun try m eeting.
M arket-day was fixed upon o f course, and the town, as we drove
nto it, was thronged with frieze-coats, the m arket-place bright w ith a
Jreat num ber o f apple-stalls, and the street filled w ith carts and vans
>f num erous sm all tradesm en, ven d in g cheeses, or cheap crockeries,
>r ready-m ade clothes and such goods.
A clothier, w ith a great
rrowd round him , had an*ayed h im self in a staring new w aistcoat o f
Iis sto ck , an d was turning slow ly round to exhibit the garm ent,
p o u tin g all the w hile to his audience, and inform ing them that he
:o u ld fit out an y person, in one m inute, “ in a com plete new shuit from
le a d to f u t ” T h e re seem ed to b e a crow d o f gossips at every shoplo o r, and, o f course, a num ber o f gentlem en w aiting at the inn-steps,
:riticizin g the cars and carriages as they d rove up. O n ly those w ho
iv e in sm all towns kn o w w hat an o b ject o f interest the street becom es,
in d th e carriages and horses w hich pass therein. M o st o f the gentlen e n h ad sent stock to com pete for the prizes. T h e shepherds were
:en din g the stock. T h e ju d g es were m akin g their award, and until
their sen ten ce was given , no com petitors could enter the show-yard.
T h e entrance to that, m eanw hile, was thronged b y a great posse o f
people, an d as the gate abutted upon an old g ray tower, a num ber o f
p eo p le had scaled that, and were lo o kin g at the beasts in the court
below .
L ik ew ise, there was a tall haystack, w hich possessed sim ilar
254
advantages o f situation, and was equally thronged vrith men andboyi
T h e rain had flillen heavily all night, the heavens were still b la d ti^
it, and the coats o f the men, and the red feet of many ragged finale
spectators, were liberally spattered with mud.
T h e first o b ject o f interest we were called upon to see
wasa
fam ous stallio n : and passing through the little by-streets (dirty and
sm all, b u t n ot so sm all and dirty as other by-streets to be seen in
Irish towns,) w e cam e to a porte-cochbre, leading into a yard filled
w ith w et fresh hay, sinking ju icily under the feet; and here in a ded
w as the fam ous stallion. H is sire must have been a French diligenfth o r s e ; he was o f a roan colour, with a broad chest, and short dean Icgl
H is forehead was ornam ented with a blue ribbon, on which his name
and prizes were painted, and on his chest hung a couple of medalsby
a ch a in — a silver one aw arded to him at Cork, a gold one canid
o ff b y superior m erit from other stallions assembled to contend at
D ublin. W hen tlie points o f the animal were suffidently discossed,
a m are, his sister, was produced, and admired still more than hirasdt
A n y m an w ho has w itnessed the performance of the French hoiises in
the H a vre diligen ce, m ust admire the vast strength and the extntordinary swiftness o f the breed; and it was agreed on all hands, that
such horses w ould jirove valuable in this country, where it is had
now' to ge t a stout horse for the road, so much has the fashion fif
blo o d , and n othing but blood, prevailed of late.
B y the tim e the stallion w'as seen, the judges had done their aili
sheep
tra tio n ; and w e w ent to the yard, w here broad-backed
woe
resting p ea cea b ly in their p e n s ; bulls w'ere led about by the nose;
enorm ous turnips, both Sw edes an d Aberdeens, reposed
the xmid;
little cribs o f geese, hens, and peafowl were come to tiy for de
p r iz e ; and p igs m ight b e seen— some encumbered with enonnocd
in
fam ilies, others w ith fat m erely.
They poked up one bnite to walk
n id i fiorquivering and
shaking with the e x e rcise ; he was then allowed to return to Wa
straw, into w hich he sank panting. Let us hope that he w ent hone
with a p ink ribbon round his tail that night, and got a price for In
for u s : he m ade, after m any futile attempts, a desperate
w'ard, his leg alm ost lost in fat, his immense sides
obesity.
I tliink the p ink ribbon w as, at least to a Cocknqr,
sight o f a l l : for on the evening after the show we saw many
g o in g aw ay so adorned, having carried
the plieaaantied
caiti
off prices on the
THE FARMERS^ DINNER.
255
'irst cam e a great bull steppin g alon g, he and his driver h avin g each
bit o f p ink on their h e a d s ; then a cart full o f s h e e p ; then a car o f
:ood-natured-looking peop le, havin g a ch u m in the m idst o f them
hat sported a p in k favour. ^Vhen all the prizes w ere distributed, a
elect co m p an y sat dow n to dinner at M a ca v o y ’s H o t e l; and no
loubt a reporter w ho w as present has given in the co u n ty p aper an
iccount o f all the go o d things eaten and said. A t our end o f the
able we h a d saddle-of-m utton, and I rem arked a bo iled le g o f the
ame d elicacy, w ith turnips, at the opposite extrem ity.
Before the
ice I observed a large p iece o f roast-beef, >vhich I co u ld n ot observe
It the end o f dinner, because it was all sw allow ed. A fte r the m utton
had cheese, and Avere ju st beginn in g to thin k that w e had dined
*eiy sufficiently, w hen a squadron o f apple-pies cam e sm oking in,
nd convinced us that, in such a glorious cause, Britons are n ever
t fault W e ate up the apple-pies, and then the punch w as called
^r by those who preferred that beverage to wine, and the speeches
egan.
T h e chairm an ga ve “ T h e Q u ee n ,” nine tim es nine and one cheer
lo re; “ P rin ce A lb ert and the rest o f the R o y a l F am ily,” great
le e r in g ; “ T h e L ord-L ieuten an t ”— his E x celle n cy ’s health w’as rejived rather coolly, I thought. A n d then began the real business
* th e n ig h t : health o f the N aas Society, health o f the A gricultural
)ciety, and healths all ro u n d ; n ot forgetting the Sallym ount B eagles
id th e K ild a re F oxh oun ds— ^which toasts were received ivith loud
leers and halloos b y m ost o f the gentlem en present, and elicited b rie f
•eeches from the masters o f the respective hounds, prom ising go o d
o r t n ex t season.
A fte r the K ild a re F oxh oun ds, an old farm er in
g r a y coat go t gravely up, and w ithout b ein g requested to do so
th e least, sang a song, stating that—
“ At seven in the morning by most of the clocks
We rode to Kilniddery in search of a fox ; ”
id a t the con clusion o f his song challen ged a friend to g iv e another
>ng. A n o th er old farmer, on this, rose and sang one o f M orris’s
m gs w ith a great deal o f queer h u m o u r; and no doubt m any m ore
m gs w'ere sung during the evening, for p len ty o f hot-w ater ju gs were
lo ckin g the d o o r as w e w ent o u t
T h e jo lly frieze-coated songster w ho celeb rated the K iln id d e ry
»x, sang, it m ust b e confessed, m ost w ofu lly out o f tu n e ; but still it
256
w as pleasant to hear him, an d I think the meeting was the most
a greeable one I have seen in Ireland : there was more good-^mmoor,
m ore cordial union o f classes, more frankness and manliness^ thaa ■
o ne is accustom ed to find in Irish meetings. A ll the speedies woe
kind-hearted, straightforw ard speeches, without a word r f politics or
an attem pt at oratory: it was impossible to say whether the gentkmeo
present were Protestan t or Catholic,— each one had a hearty wori of |
encouragem ent for his tenant, and a kind welcome for his neig^boa
T h e re were forty stout, well-to-do farmers in the room, renters of
seventy, a hundred acres o f land. There were no clergymen present;
though it w ould have been pleasant to have seen one of endi per* '
suasion to say grace for the m eeting an d the meat
A t a sim ilar m eeting at B allyto re th e n ex t day, I had an oppof
tunity o f seeing a still finer co llectio n of stock than had been broa^
to N aas, and at the sam e tim e on e o f the most beautiful flourWung
villages in Ireland. T h e road to it from H
town, if not leniaifaU*
for its rural beauty, is pleasant to travel, for evidences of n«t sn4
prosperous husbandry are around you everywhere : rich crops in tbc
fields, and neat cottages b y the roadside, accompanying us as fir®
B allyto re— a white, straggling village, surrounding green fields of soo*
five furlongs square, with a river running in the midst of them, *nd
num erous fine cattle in the green. Here is a large windmill, fitted np i
like a castle, with battlem ents and towers: the castellan thererf
good-natured old Q u ak er gentlem an, and numbers more rf
follow ing inhabit the town.
^
T h e con sequence w as that the shops of the village were ^
neatest possible, though b y n o m eans grand or portentous. WW
should Q u ak er shops b e neater than other shops? Th^suffer *®
the full as m uch oppression as the rest of the hereditary bondsme** ’
and yet, in spite o f their tyrants, th ey prosper.
I must n ot attem pt to pass an opinion upon the stock e x h ib it^
at B a lly to re ; but, in the opinion o f som e large agricultural proprictc^^
present, it m ight have figured w ith advantage in any show in E n âis^
an d certain ly was finer than the exh ibition at Naas ; which, h o w e v ^
is a very young society.
T h e best part of the show, however, ^
ever>'body’s thinking, (and it is pleasant to observe the manly
p lay spirit w hich characterizes the society,) was, that the prizei ^
the Irish A gricultural S o ciety were awarded to two nuinf-one ^
labourer, the other a very sm all holder, both having reared'the
THE N L I S
^lock c\li.hiic<l on the oci' asion.
E E 70 H -H ,)E S E ,
257
A t tlie dinner, vliii li lo'^k | Li('e i:i
a bam o f tlie inn, sm artly decorated with laurels for the purpose,
there was as go o d and stout a b o d y o f yeom en as at N aas the day
previous, but o n ly tw'O la n d lo rd s ; and here, too, as at N aas, neither
priest nor parson.
C attle-feeding o f course form ed the principal
theme o f the after-dinner discourse— not, how ever, altogether to the
exclusion o f t illa g e ; and there was a go o d and useful prize for those
who could n ot afford to rear fat oxen — for the best kep t cottage and
garden, nam ely— w hich was w on b y a p oor man with a large fam ily
and scanty, precarious earnings, but w ho yet found m eans to m ake
the most o f his small resources and to keep his little cottage neat and
cleanly. T h e tariff and the plentiful harvest together had helped to
bring dow n prices s e v e re ly ; and w e heard from the farmers m uch
desponding talk.
the barrel.
I saw h ay sold for 2/. the ton, and oats for
Ss, 3//.
In the little village I rem arked scarcely a single beggar, and very
few bare feet indeed am ong the crow ds w ho cam e to see the show.
Here the Q u ak er village had the advantage o f the town o f Naas, in
spite o f its poor-house, w hich was o n ly h a lf full w hen w e went to see
jt; but the peop le prefer beggary and starvation abroad to com fort and
Neatness in the union-house.
A neater establishm ent cann ot b e seen than th is; and liberty
®ust be ve ry sw eet indeed, w hen p eop le prefer it and starvation to
certainty o f com fort in the union-house.
W e went to see it after
show at N aas.
T h e first persons w e saw at the gate o f the p lace w ere four buxom
^ e s in b lu e ja c k e ts and p etticoats, w ho w ere gigglin g and laughing
^ g a ily as so m any youn g heiresses o f a thousand a year, and w ho
a colour in their cheeks that an y lad y o f A lm a ck ’s m ight envy,
^ ^ y were clean ing pails and carrying in w ater from a green court or
p la y g r o u n d in front o f the house, w hich som e o f the able-bodied men
t h e p lace were b u sy in inclosing.
Passing through the large
® ^ t r ^ c e o f the house, a nondescript G o th ic building, w e cam e to a
divided b y a road and two low w a lls : the right inclosure is
^^''ôted to the bo ys o f the establishm ent, o f whom there were about
at p l a y : boys m ore healthy or happy it is im possible to see.
^ P a r a t e d from them is the n u rse ry ; and here w ere seven ty or eighty
y ^ U n g children, a shrill cla ck o f hap py voices leading the w ay to the
where they w ere to be found.
B oys and children had a
17
2S8
th e
IRISH SK E T C H BOOK.
comfortable little uniform, and shoes were funidied for a ll;
the authorities did not seem particularly severe in enfimang dw
wearing of tlie shoes, which most of the young persons left bdund
them.
In spite o f all The Timeds in the world, the place was a htsppj
one. I t is kep t with a neatness and comfort to which, until bh
entrance into the union-house, the Irish peasant must peifiiice
have been a stranger. A ll the rooms and passages are white, wcD
scoured, and a i r y ; all the windows are glazed ; all the beds haw a
go o d store o f blankets and sheets. In the women’s dormitories thcK
la y several infirm persons, not ill enough for the iniirmazy, saoifjd
o f the society o f the com m on room: in one of the men’s sleeping^
room s w e found a score o f old gray-coated men sitting round anodier
Avho was reading prayers to them. And outside the place we fixmda
w om an starving in rags, as she had been ragged and starving fif
y e a r s : her husband Avas w ounded, and lay in his house upon sthv;
her children were ill w ith a f e v e r ; she had neither meat, nor physfc;
nor clothing, nor fresh air, n or warmth for them;— and ^ e piefaici
to starve on rather than enter the house!
T h e last o f our agricultural excursions was to the fair of Cssfc
derm ot, celebrated for the show o f cattle to be seen thcre^ ani
attended b y the farmers and g e n tiy of the neighbouring •counties
L o n g before reaching the place we met troops of cattle coming fioo
it— stock o f a beautiful kind, for the most part large, sleds, dute^
long-backed, m ost o f the larger animals being bound for Eiigbid'
T h e re was very near as fine a show in the pastures along the rod
— w hich lies across a ligh t green countiy with plenty of treei
to ornam ent the
roadside.
landscape, and some neat cottages along the
At the turnpike of Castledermot the droves o f cattle met usbf
scores no longer, but by hundreds, and the long street of the place
Avas thronged with oxen, sheep, and horses, and with those iriio
Avished to see, to sell, or to buy. The squires were all together in t
cluster at the police-house; the owners of the horses rode np and
doAvn, showing the best paces of their brutes: among wliook you
might see Paddy, in his ragged firieze-coat, seated on his d o n k ^
bare rump, and proposing him for sale. 1 think I saw a score ioT
this humble though useful breed that were brought for sale to the
fair. “ I can sell him,” says one fellow, with a pompous air, " wid
CASTLEDERMOT.
his tack le o r w idout.”
259
H e w as lo o kin g as grave o ver the negotiation
as if it h ad been for a thousand pounds. Besides the donkeys, o f
course there w as p len ty o f poultry, and there w ere pigs w ithout
number, shrieking and struggling and pushing hither and thither
among the crow d, rebellious to the straw-rope. I t was a fine thing
to see one hu ge grunter and the m anner in w hich he was landed into
a cart. T h e cart w as let dow n on an easy inclined plane to tem pt
him: two m en ascending, urged him b y the forelegs, other two
entreated him b y the tail. A t length, w hen m ore than h alf o f his
body had been co a xed upon the cart, it was suddenly w hisked up,
causing the anim al thereby to fall fo rw a rd ; a parting shove sent him
altogether into the c a r t ; the two gentlem en inside jum p ed out, and
the monster was left to ride home.
T he farmers, as usual, w ere talking o f the tariff, predicting ruin
to themselves, as farmers w ill, on accoun t o f the decreasing price
of stock an d the consequent fall o f grain.
Perhaps the person
ôst to b e pitied is the p o or pig-proprietor y o n d e r : it is his rent
*vhich he is carrying through the m arket squeaking at the end o f
■he straw-rope, and Sir R o b e rt’s bill adds in solven cy to that p oor
'ellow’s misery.
T h is w as the last o f the sights w hich the kin d ow ner o f H — town
lad in vited m e into his coun try to s e e ; and I think they were am ong
h e m ost pleasin g I w itnessed in Ireland. R ic h and poor were
Forking friendlily to g e th e r; priest and parson w ere alike interested
a these honest, hom ely, agricultural fe stiv a ls; n ot a w ord w as said
b o u t hereditary bond age and E n glish ty ra n n y ; and one did n ot
auch regret the absence o f those patriotic topics o f conversation. I f
»ut for the sake o f the change, it was pleasant to pass a few days
rith p eo p le am ong w hom there was no q u a rrellin g : no furious denuniation s against P o p ery on the part o f the Protestants, and no tirades
ga in st the parsons from their bitter and scornful opponents o f th e
ither creed.
N e x t Sunday, in th e county M eath, in a quiet old church lying
m on gst m eadow s and fine old stately avenues o f trees, and for the
benefit o f a congregation o f som e thirty persons,. I heard for th e
p ace o f an hour and tw en ty m inutes some thorough Protestan t docrine, and the P o p ish superstitions properly b e la b o u red
D o e s it
trengthen a m an in his ow n creed to hear his neighbour’s b e lie f
ibused ?
O n e w ould im agine so : for though abuse converts n obody,
26o
t h e IRISH SK E TCH B O O K
yet many of our pastors think
they are not dobg their duty h f thdr
next fidd,
cndgdiiog
pagnadoDS
own fold unless they fling stones at the flock in the
and have, for the honour of the service, a match at
with the shepherd.
Our shepherd to-day was of this
sort
The Meath landscape, if not varied and picturesque, is extremdy
rich and pleasant; and we took some drives along the banks of tia
Boyne— to the noble park of Slane (still sacred to the memoiy of
George IV., w'ho actually condescended to pass some days fli«)i
and to Trim— of w'hich the name occurs so often in Swift's Jommb^
and where stands an enormous old castle that was inhabited l^
Prince John. It wâs taken from him by an Irish chiefi our guide
said; and from the Irish chief it was taken by Oliver CroonvdL
OThuselah whs the Irish chiefs name no doubt
Here too stands, in the midst o f one of the most wietdied
towns in Ireland, a pillar erected in honour of the Duke of Wellingtoa
by the gentry of his native county. His birthplace, Dangan, lia
not far off. And as we saw the hero’s statue, a flight of birds had
hovered about it: there was one on each epaulette and two on his
marshal’s staff. Besides these wonders, we saw a certain number
of beggars; and a madman, who was walking round a mound and
preaching a sermon on grace; and a little child’s funeral came
passing through the dismal town, the only stirring thing in it (the
coffin was laid on a one-horse country car— a little deal box, in whkh
the poor child lay— ând a great troop of people followed the humUe
procession); and the inn-keeper, who had caught a few stray gelld^
folk in a towm where travellers must he rare; and in his inn— wfaidi h
more gaunt and miserable than the town itself, and which is Iqr BO
means rendered more cheerful because sundry theological works are
left for the rare frequenters in the coffee-room— the inn4eepe*
brought in a bill which would have been worthy of Long’s! and whidi
was paid with much grumbling on both sides.
It would not be a bad rule for the traveller in Iielaxid to avoid
those inns where theological works are left in the coffefrroom. He
is pretty sure to be made to pay very dearly for there leSgM
privileges.
We waited for the coach at the beautiful lodge and gate of Aimsbrook; and one of the sons of the house coming up, invited us to
look at the domain, which is as
pretty and neatly (tfderedas— as SBJ
N A N N rS^ WATER.
261
n E n g la n d
I t is hard to use this com parison so often, and must
n ak e Irish hearers angry.
C a n ’t one see a neat house and grounds
vithout instantly thinking that th ey are w orthy o f the sister country ;
ind im plyin g, in our co o l w ay, its superiority to everyw here else ?
V a lk in g in this gentlem an’s grounds, I told him , in the sim plicity o f
n y heart, that the neighbouring country w as lik e W arw ickshire, and
he grounds as go o d as an y English park. Is it the fact that English
grounds are superior, or only that E nglishm en are disposed to conid e r them so ?
A pretty little tAvining river, called the Nanny’s Water, runs through
he park : there is a legend about that, as about other places. Once
ipon a time (ten thousand years ago). Saint Patrick being thirsty as
le passed by this country, came to the house of an old woman, of
vhom he asked a drink of milk. The old Avoman brought it to his
everence with the best of Avelcomes, and . . . . here it is a great
nercy that the Belfast mail comes up, Avhereby the reader is spared
he rest of the history.
The Belfast mail had only to carry us five miles to Drogheda,.
)ut, in revenge, it made us pay three shillings for the five miles; and
gain, by Avay of compensation, it carried us over five miles of a
ountry that Avas worth at least five shillings to see— not romantic or
?specially beautiful, but having the best of all beauty— a quiet, smiling,
)rosperous, unassuming work-day look, that in views and landscapes
nost good judges admire. Hard by Nanny’s Water, w'e came to
)uleek Bridge, w'here, I was told, stands an old residence of the De
)ath family, Avho w'ere, moreover, builders of the picturesque old
)ridge.
The road leads over a Avide green common, Avhich puts one in
nind of Eng
(a plague on it, there is the comparison again !),
:nd at the end of the common lies the village among trees: a
>eautiful and peaceful sight In the background there Avas a tall
vy-covered old tOAver, looking noble and imposing, but a ruin and
iseless; then there w-as a church, and next to it a chapel— the very
ame sun was shining upon both. The chapel and church were
:onnected by a farm-yard, and a score of golden ricks were in the
yackground, the churches in unison, and the people (typified by the
rom-ricks) flourishing at the feet of both. May one ever hope to see
he day in Ireland when this little landscape allegory shall find a
;eneral application?
262
For some way after leaving Duleek the road and the ooantiy
round continue to wear the agreeable, cheeiful look just now hmdei
You pass by a house where James II. is said to have slept die ni^
before the battle of the Boyne (he took care to sleep fiir enough off
on the night after), and also by an old red-brick hall standing at the
end of an old chace or terrace-avenue, that runs for about a mile
down to the house, and finishes at a moat towards the load. But n
the coach arrives near Drogheda, and in the boulevards of diat town,
all resemblance to England is lost. U p hill and down, we pass low
TOWS of filthy cabins in dirty undulations. Parents are at the cabindoors dressing the hair of ragged children; shock-heads o f giilspeer
out from the black circumference of smoke, and children incon
ceivably filthy yell wildly and vociferously as the coach passes by.
One little ragged savage rushed furiously up the hill, speculating upon
permission to put on the drag-chain at descending, and hoping for a
halfpenny reward.
He put on the chain, but the guard did not gbt
a halfpenny. I flung him one, and the boy rushed wildly after 4e
carriage, holding it up with joy. “ The man inside has given me
one,” says he, holding it up exultingly to the guard. I flung oot
another (by-the-by, and without any prejudice, the halfjpence in
Ireland are smaller than those of E n g ird ), but when the duld got
this halfpenny, small as it was, it seemed to overpower h im : thelM®
man’s look of gratitude was worth a great deal more than the biggest
penny ever struck.
The town itself, which I had three-quarters of an hour lo ramble
through, is smoky, dirty, and lively. There was a great bustle in tbe
black Main Street, and several good shops, though some of the houses
were in a half state of ruin, and battered shutters closed many of fl*
windows where formerly had been “ emporiums,” “ repositories,” and
other grandly-titled abodes of small commerce.
Exhortations to
“ repeal ” were liberally plastered on the blackened walls, prodahmng
some past or promised visit of the “ great agitator.” From the bridge
is a good bustling spectacle of the river and the craft; the quays
were grimy with the discharge of the coal-vessels that lay alongside
them ; the warehouses were not less black; the seamen and pocten
loitering on the quay were as swarthy as those of Puddledock;
numerous factories and chimneys were vomiting huge donds of Uadc
smoke: the commerce of the town is stated by the Guide4KX)k to be
considerable, and increasing of late years. O t one port of its i
THE
G R E A T M E R C Y " A T J)ROG//E/)A.
263
Liruires c\ cry travell er must speak witli g r a t i t u d e — o f tlie ale namel y ,
which is as go o d as tlie best brew ed in the sister kingdom . D rogheda
ale is to b e drunk all o ver Irelan d in the bo ttled state : candour calls
for the ackn ow ledgm en t that it is equ ally praisew orthy in draught.
A nd w hile satisfying him self o f this fact, the philosophic observer
cannot b u t ask w h y ale should n ot b e as go o d elsew here as at D ro g
heda : is the w ater o f the B oyn e the o n ly w ater in Irelan d w h ereo f
a le can b e m a d e?
A bo ve the river and craft, and the sm oky quays o f the town, the
hills rise abruptly, up Avhich innum erable cabins clam ber. O n one o f
them, b y a church, is a round tower, or fort, w ith a flag : the church
i s the successor o f o n e battered dow n b y C rom w ell in 1649,
his
frightful siege o f the place. T h e p lace o f one o f his batteries is still
noarked outside the town, and know n as “ C rom w ell’s M o u n t : ”
here he “ m ad e the breach assaultable, and, b y the help o f G o d ,
storm ed it.”
H e chose the strongest p oin t o f the defen ce for
His attack.
A fter b ein g tw ice beaten b a ck, b y the divine assistance he was
t a b l e d to succeed in a third a s s a u lt: he “ kn o cked on the head ” all
t h e officers o f the g a rris o n ; he g a v e orders that none o f the m en
^ o u l d b e spared. “ I thin k,” says he, “ tliat night w e put to the
sw o rd tw o thousand m e n ; and one hundred o f them havin g taken
possession o f St. P eter’s steeple and a round tow er n ext the gate,
c a lle d S t Sun day’s, I ordered the steeple o f S t P e ter’s to b e fired,
w hen one in the flames w as heard to say, ‘ G o d confound me, I
bum , I bum ! ’ ”
T h e L o rd G en eral’s histor}' o f “ this great m ercy
vo u ch safed to us ” con cludes with appropriate religious re fle c tio n s :
a n d prays M r. Sp eaker o f the H o u se o f C om m on s to rem em ber
th at “ it is g o o d that G o d alon e h ave all the g lo ry.” Is not the
recoU ection o f this b utchery alm ost enough to m ake an Irishm an
turn re b e l?
W h en troops m arched o ver the bridge, a yo u n g friend o f m ine
(w hom I shrew dly suspected to b e an O rangem an in his heart) told
m e that their bands played the “ B o yn e W ater.” H e re is another
leg en d o f defeat for the Irishm an to m use u p o n ; and here it was,
to o , that K in g R ich ard I I . received the hom age o f four Irish kings,
w h o flung their skenes or daggers a t his feet and kn elt to him , and
w ere w onder-stricken b y the riches o f .his tents and the garm ents
o f h is kn igh ts an d ladies.
I think it is in L in gard that the story
264
th e
has no doubt seen tha t beautifiil oU
Museum where these yeUow-nuntkd
to the K ing , splendid in his fixked
long dangling scolloped sleeves nd
is t o l d ; and the antiquarian
m anuscript at the British
warriors are seen riding dow n
beard, and p eaked shoes, an d
em broidered go^vn.
T h e B oyne winds picturesquely
follow ing it, we cam e to the
round tw o sides o f the town, nd
Linen H a ll,— în the days o f the lina
m anufacture a p lace o f n ote, now the place where M r. O’Coond
harangues the p e o p le ; b ut all the windows o f the house were banicad ed w hen w e passed it, and o f linen or any other sort of nxrchandise there seem ed to b e none. Three boys were running ptfi
it w ith a m ouse tied to a string and a dog galloping a fter; tvo
little children w'erc p add lin g down the street, one saying to the
other, “ Once I had a halfpenny, and bought apples w ith i t ” The
barges w'ere lyin g la zily on the river, on the opposite side o f wMdi
Avas a Avood o f a gen tlem an ’s domain, over which the rooks were
caAving ; and b y the shore Avere some ruins— “ where M r. Ball once
had his kenn el o f h o u n d s ” — touching reminiscence o f fimner
p ro s p e rity !
T h e re is a very large and u gly
Roman C atholic chapel in the town,
construction: it was so crowded, how*
that we could not pass beyond te
crowds o f people, some praying some
There were tw o o r three stalls in
the yard, such as one sees n ear continental churches, presided over
b y old Avomen, w ith a store o f little brass crucifixes,, beads, hoda,
and benitiers for the faithful to purchase. The church is large and
com m odious Avithin, and looks (not like a ll other churches in
Ireland) as i f it were frequented. There is a hideous stone monu
m ent in the churchyard representing two corpses h a lf rotted
a\A'ay: tim e or n eglect had battered away the inscriptioD, nor
could w e see the dates o f some older tombstones in the ground,
w'hich Averc m ouldering aw ay in the m idst o f nettles and rank giaa
and a sm aller one o f better
ever, although on a w eek-day,
chap el-yard— w here w ere great
talking, som e buyin g and selling.
on the w’air.
B y a large public school
o f some reputation, where a hundred
guide the Orangeman was one of
glee how, on one o f the lib e ra to i's
waved a blue and orange flag firom the
W illiam fo r ever, and to h e ll w ith A e
bo ys were educated (m y y o u n g
t h e m : he related w ith m uch
visits, a schoolfellow had
w indow and cried,
K in g
“
A BEGGARAVOM ANS WIT.
265
Pope! ”), there is a fine old gate leadin g to the river, and in excellen t
preservation, in spite o f tim e and O liver Crom w ell.
I t is a g o o d
specimen o f Irish architecture.
B y this tim e that exceed in gly slow
coach th e “ N e w ry L a r k ” had arrived at that exceed in gly filthy inn
where the m ail h ad drop p ed us an hour before.
A n enorm ous
Englishman w as holdin g a vain com bat o f w it with a braw ny, grinning
b^gar-wom an at the door. “ T h e re ’s a r/fzrr gen tlem an ,” says the
beggar-woman.
“ Sure he’ll giv e m e som ething.”
“ H o w m qch
should yo u lik e ? ” says th e E n glishm an, w ith playful jocularity.
“ Musha,” says she, “ m any a Hitler man n or yo u has given m e
a shilling.” T h e co ach drives away ; the la d y had clearly the best o f
the jo kin g-m a tch ; but I did n ot see, for all that, that the Englishm an
gave her a single farthing.
From C a stle Bellingham — as fam ous for ale as D ro gh ed a, and
remarkable likew ise for a still better thing than ale, an excellen t
resident proprietress, w hose fine p ark lies b y the road, and b y w hose
care and taste the villa ge has been rendered one o f the m ost n eat
and elegan t I h ave yet seen in Irelan d — the road to D u n d a lk is
exceedingly picturesque, and the traveller has the pleasure o f feasting
his eyes w ith the n oble line o f M o u m e M ountains, w hich rise before
him w hile he journ eys o ver a lev el country for several miles. T h e
“ N ew ry L a r k ,” to be sure, disdained to take advantage o f the easy
roads to accelerate its m ovem ents in an y w a y ; but the asp ect o f the
» u n tr y is so pleasant that one can afford to loiter over i t
The
ield s w ere yello w w ith the stubble o f the co m — w hich in this,
m e o f the c h ie f co m coun ties o f Irelan d, had ju st been cut d o w n ;
ind a lo n g straggling line o f n eat farm-houses and cottages runs
dm ost the w hole w ay from C astle Bellingham to D u n dalk.
For
le a rly a co u p le o f m iles o f the distance, the road runs alon g the
picturesque flat called L urgan G r e e n ; and gen tlem en ’s residences
in d p arks are num erous alon g the road, and one seem s to have
:om e am ongst a new race o f peop le, so trim are the cottages, so n eat
h e ga tes and hedges, in this peaceful, sm iling district. T h e p eop le,
;oo, show signs o f the general prosperity. A national-school has ju st
lism issed its fem ale scholars as w e passed through D u n la r; and
h o u g h the children had m ost o f them bare feet, their clothes w ere
lood a n d clean, their faces rosy and bright, and their lo n g hair as
ihiny a n d as n icely co m bed as youn g ladies* need to be. N um erous
pld ca stle s and towers stand on the road here and t h e r e ; and lo n g
266
before we entered D undalk we had a sight o f a huge ftctoiy-diiniiiey
in the town, and o f the dazzling w hite w alls o f the Roman CiAolic
church lately erected there. The cabin-suborb is n o t great, and the
entrance to the town is much adorned by the hospital— a hatidiome
Elizabethan building— and a row o f houses o f a sim ilar ardntectnid
style which lie on the le ft o f the traveller.
( 267 )
C H A P T E R X X V I.
DUNDALK.
' h e Stranger can ’t fail to be struck w ith the lo o k o f D u n d alk, as
e has been with the villages and coun try leadin g to it, w hen con^ te d with places in the South and W est o f Ireland. T h e coach
:opped at a cheerful-looking Place, o f w hich alm ost the o n ly
ilapidated m ansion was the old inn at w hich it discharged us, and
hich did n ot hold out m uch p rospect o f com fort.
But in ju stice to
le “ K in g ’s A rm s ” it must b e said that go o d beds and dinners are
> be obtained there b y v o y a g e r s ; and i f th ey choose to arrive on
ays when his G race the M o st R everen d the L o rd A rch b ish op o f
kJmagh an d Prim ate o f Irelan d is din ing with his clergy, the house
f course is crow ded, and the w aiters, and the b o y w ho carries in the
otatoes, a little hurried and flustered. W hen their reveren ces were
one^ the laity w ere s e r v e d ; and I have no doubt, from the leg o f a
uck w hich I go t, that the breast and w ings m ust have been very
inder.
M eanw hile the w alk w as p leasant through the bustling little
A grave old church w ith a tall co p p er spire defends one end
f the M ain S tr e e t; and a little w ay from the inn is the superb new
liapel, w hich the architect, M r. Duff, has cop ied from K in g ’s
5wn.
ollege C h ap el in C am brid ge.
T h e ornam ental part o f the interior
n ot y et c o m p le te d ; b ut the area o f the ch ap el is spacious and
>ble, and three handsom e altars o f scagliola (or som e com position
sem bling m arble) have been erected, o f handsom e and suitable
*Tn. W h en b y the aid o f further subscriptions the church shall be
•nnpleted, it w ill b e on e o f the handsom est p laces o f worship the
Oman C a th o lics possess in this country.
O pp osite the chapel
^ d s a neat low b la ck building— the g a o l : in the m iddle o f the
tilding, and o ver the doorw ay, is an om inous b a lco n y and w indow ,
[th an iron beam overhead.
E a ch end o f the beam is ornam ented
ith a grinning iron s k u ll!
Is this the h a n gin g -p lace ? and do
grinning cast-iron skulls facetiously exp lain th e business for
268
THE 2RJSH SK ETCH B O O K
w liicli the beam is there ? F o r sham e 1 for sham e I Such dugîstiiig
em blem s ought no lo n g er to disgrace a Christian lan d . I f kiH at
must, let us» do so with as m uch desp atch and d e c e n c y as poasibJe,
— not brazen out our m isdeeds and perpetuate them in this fiigbt&l
satiric way.
A far better cast-iron em blem stands o ve r a handsom e shop in 6c
“ P la c e ” hard b y — a plough nam ely, w hich figures o ve r th e factory of
Îr. Shekeiton, whose industry and skill seem ^to h a v e brought 6c
greatest benefit to his fellow -tow nsm en— o f w hom he employ*
numbers in his foundries and w orkshops.
T h is gentleman wai
kin d enough to show me through his m anufactories, w here all soils
o f iron-works are m ade, from a steam -engine to a door-key; and 1
saw evei^'thing to adm ire, and a vast deal m ore than I could wnlerstantl, in the busy, cheerful, orderly, bustling, clan gin g place. Stcaaboilers were ham m ered here, and pins m ade b y a hundred btuy
liaiids in a m anufactory above. T h e re w as the engine-room, whert
the m onster was ivhiirin g his ceaseless w'heels and d irtctin g thcwhcte
operations o f the factory, fanning the forges, turning the drills*
blasting in to the pipes o f the sm eltin g-h ou ses: he had a houwto
him self, from w hicli his orders issued to the different establishments
round about. O n e m achine was quite awful to me, a gen tle cocknejTi
n ot used to such things : it was an iron-devourer, a w retch with htrge
jaw s and a narrow m outh, ever opening and shutting— opening md
shutting.
Y o u put a half-inch iron p late betw een his jaw s, and they
shut not a whit slow er or q u ick er than before, and bit through the
iron as if it w ere a sheet o f paper. B elow the m onsteFs mbutb was
a punch that perform ed its duties with sim ilar dreadful calmness,
go in g on its rising and falling,
an introduction to the V icar o f Dimkind and generous nature inteipieted
in to a claim for unlim ited h o sp ita lity ; and he was good enoo|^ to
consider him self bound not only to receive me, but to give np
previous engagem ents abroad in order to do so. I need not say dnt
it afforded m e sincere pleasure to witness, for a couple o f days, ha
labours am ong his p e o p le ; and indeed it was a delightful occupstkm
to w atch both flock and pastor. The w orld is a wicked, self^d^
abom inable place, as the parson tells u s ; but his reverence comes
out o f his pulpit and gives the flattest contradiction to his doctrine:
busying h im self with kind actions from m orning t ill night* deiqrirtg ID
1 was so lu ck y as to h ave
dalk, w hich that gentlem an’s
D U ND ALK CHURCH A N D SCHOOLS.
269
himself, generous to others, preaching the truth to youn g and old,
clothing the naked, feeding the hungry, con solin g the w retched, and
giving hope to the s i c k ;— and I do n ot m ean to say that this sort o f
life is led b y the V ic a r o f D u n d alk m erely, but do firm ly believe that
it is the life o f the great m ajority o f the Protestan t and R om an
Catholic cle rg y o f the country. T h e re w ill b e no breach o f con
fidence, I hope, in publishing here the journ al o f a co u p le o f days
jpent with one o f these reverend gen tlem en , and tellin g som e readers,
IS idle and profitless as the writer, w hat the clergym an’s peaceful
labours are.
In the first p lace, w e set out to visit the church— the com fortable
:opper-spired old edifice that was noticed two p ages back. I t stands
in a green churchyard o f its OA\*n, very neat and trim ly kep t, with an
Did row o f trees that w ere dropping their red leaves upon a flock o f
traults and tom bstones below . T h e buildin g bein g m uch injured b y
lame and time, som e hundred years b a ck was repaired, enlarged,
md ornam ented— as churches in those days were ornam ented— and
las con sequently lost a go o d deal o f its G o th ic character. T h ere is
I great m ixture, therefore, o f oUl style and new style and n o s t y le :
Dut, w ith all this, the church is one o f the m ost com m odious and
>est appointed I h ave seen in Ireland. T h e vicar held a council
n th a builder regarding som e ornam ents for the ro o f o f the church,
vhich is, as it should be, a great o b ject o f his care and architectural
aste, and on w hich he has spent a very large sum o f m oney. T o
hese expenses he is in a m anner bound, for the livin g is a considerible one, its incom e b ein g no less than bvo hundred and fifty pounds
Ly e a r ; out o f w hich he has m erely to m aintain a couple o f curates
ind a clerk and sexton, to contribute largely towards schools and
lospitals, and relieve a few scores o f pensioners o f his own, w ho are
ittin g ob jects o f p rivate bounty.
W e w ent from the church to a school, w hich has been lo n g a
a vourite resort o f the g o o d vicar s : indeed, to ju d g e from the
x:hoolmaster’s bo o ks, his attendance there is alm ost daily, and the
lum ber o f the scholars som e tw o hundred. T h e num ber was coniiderably greater im til the schools o f the E ducational B oard were
established, w hen the R o m an C a th o lic clergym en w ithdrew m any o f
h e ir youn g people from Mr. T h a ck era y ’s establish m en t
W e found a large room w ith sixty or seven ty bo ys at w o r k ; in an
jp p e r cham ber w ere a considerable num ber o f girls, w ith their
270
pretty young w om en; bat the fimnihe
the Infrm t-S diool,— and no wonder:
beautiful or touching s i|^ t
people, healthy, clean, and roqp— Moie m
stockings, some w ith patched pinafcrei
and little bare p in k feet— sate upon a half-dozen low bendk% and
Avere singing, at the top o f their fourscore fresh voices, a soqg w tai
Ave en teied . A ll the voices were hushed as the vicar came in, and a
great b o bbin g and curtseying to o k place; w hilst a hundred and az^
in nocent eyes turned aAvfully towards th e clexgyman, who tried ID
lo o k as unconcerned as possible, and began to make his little ooeia
speech.
“ I have brought,” says he, “ a gentleman from England
Avho has heard o f m y little children and their school, and hopei he
Avill carry aw ay a go o d acco u n t o f it. Now, you know, we mnitaD
do our best to be kin d and civil to strangers: w hat can we do hen
for this gentlem an that he w'ould lik e ?— do you th in k he would like
teachers, tw o m odest and
resort o f the \ica r w as evid en tly
it is im possible to w itness a m ore
E ig h ty o f these little
smart gow ns and shoes and
a song ? ”
{A/l the childreti)M^ WeTl
sing to him I ”
com ing forward, sang the first woidfof
little voices took up, o r near c i^ ty too young to sing yet, and all they
measure w ith little red hands as the othes
It
heaven, w ith a chorus o f “ Oh thatwiB
b e joyfu l, jo yfu l,” and one o f the verses b a n n in g , “ L ittle diiHrtS
Avill b e there.” Som e o f my fa ir readers ( if I have the honour to
find such) Avho have been present at sim ilar tender, charm ing conoot%
knoAv the h>Tnn, no doubt. I t was the first tim e I had ever heard it;
and I do n ot care to oaviI that it brought tears to m y eyes,* thoo^ k
is ill to parade such kin d o f sentim ent in p rin t B ut 1 ftin k 1 w il
never, Avhile I live, forget that little chorus, nor w ould any man wto
has ever lo ved a child or lost one. God bless you, O little happf
singers ! W h at a n oble and useful life is his, who, in place o f icAin g Avealth or honour, d evotes his life to such a service as this I And
all through our country, thank G o d! in quiet hum ble comen» iW
b u sy citizens and men o f the w orld never hear o ( there are tiuffsisdf
o f such m en em ployed in such holy pursuits, w iA no reward hejosi
that Avhich the fulfilm ent o f duty brings them.
M ost o f thtf*
children w'ere R om an Catholics. A t this tender age the priests do
not care to separate them firom the ir little Protestant hretiuen: tod
T h e n the schoolm istress,
a hym n, Avhich at once eighty
for som e o f the little things w ere
could do Avas to beat the
sang.
was a hym n about
D U N D ALK INFANT-SCHOOL.
271
id e r. H e m ust b e a child-m urdering H e ro d w ho w ou ld find
art to d o so.
ter th e hym n, th e children w ent through a little Scripture cateansw ering v e iy correctly, and all in a breath, as the mistress
e questions. Som e o f them were, o f course, to o yo u n g to
tand the w ords th ey u tte r e d ; but the answers are so sim ple
ley can n o t fail to understand them before l o n g ; and th ey learn
e o f them selves.
e catech ism b ein g ended, another song w as s u n g ; and n ow
:ar (w ho had been hum m ing the chorus a lo n g w ith his yo u n g
5, and, in spite o f an aw ful and grave coun ten an ce, co u ld n ot
liowing his extrem e happiness^ m ade another oration, in w hich
:ed that the gentlem an from E n gla n d was perfectly s a tisfied ;
j w ould have a go o d report o f the D u n d a lk children to carry
with h im ; that the d ay w as v e ry fine, and the schoolm istress
p ro b ab ly like to take a w a lk ; and, finally, w ould the youn g
giv e her a h o lid a y ? “ A s m any,” con cluded he, “ as w ill
le schoolm istress a holiday, hold up their h a n d s ! ” T h is quesas carried unanim ously.
1 1 am bound to say, w hen the little p eo p le w ere told that as
IS wouldn't like a h oliday w ere to h o ld up their hands, all the
lands w ent up again e xa ctly as b e fo r e : b y w h ich it m ay be
ded either that the infants did n ot understand his reverence’s
, or that they w ere ju st as h ap py to stay at school as to g o and
and the reader m a y ad o pt w hichever o f the reasons he inclines
: is probable that b o th are c o rr e c t
272
fond o f the school, the vicar told ne n
on returning home they like nodng
num ber o f the ir companions who don't goto
T h e little things are so
w e w alked away from it, that
better than to ge t a
school, and to p la y at in fan t-sch ool
T h e y m ay be heard singing
hum ble houses in w hich they
w ho sang his song o f
m other w eepin g at his bedside,
m eet where no parting should
the ir hymns in the nanow a llq fi nd
d w e ll: and I was- to ld o f one djiqg
“ Oh that w ill be jo yfu l, jo y fiil," to his poor
and prom ising her tha t th ^ slioidd
be.
“ T h e re was a child in the school,” said the vicar, whose
a R om an C ath o lic, was a carpenter by trade, a good workman, nd
earning a considerable w eekly sum, but neglecting his wife nd
children and spending his earnings in drink. W e have a lOig
against drunkenness that the infents sing ; and one evening; goifll
hom e, the child found her father excited w ith liq u o r and ill-tita tin
his wife. T h e little thing forthw ith interposed between them, tdd
her father w hat she had heard at school regarding the criminalitjcf
drunkenness and quarrelling, and finished her little serm on with fee
h>inn. T h e father was first amused, then touched ; and the end of
it was that he kissed his wife and asked her to forgive him ,
his child, and from that d ay would always have her in his bed, nnde
her sing to him m orning and night, and forsook his old haunts for fee
sake o f his little com panion.”
and prosperous for eight m onths; but fee
began to rem ark that the child looked
ragged at school, and passing by her m other’s house, saw the poo*
w om an w ith a black eye. “ I f it was any one but your hud»ndi
Mrs. C
, w ho ga ve you that b la ck eye," says the vicar, “ te ll mn 5
but if he did it, don’t say a w ord.” The woman was silent, and fOdttafter, m eeting her husband, the vicar took him to task. “ You wer©
sober for eight months. Now te ll me fa irly, C
says he, “ w e r^
yo u happier when you lived at home w ith your w ife and duU,
a re you m ore happy n o w ? ” The man owned that he was
happier form erly, and the end o f the conversation, was that
prom ised to go hom e once more and try the sober life again, and
H e was quite sober
vicar at the end
that tim e
of
w en t hom e and succeeded.
The vicar continued to hear good accounts o f h im ; but
one day by his house he saw the w ife there looking very n d . “
her husband relapsed ?” — “ N o, he was dead,” d ie aaid— ^“ deadofdn^
TH E COUNTY H OSPITAL, DUNDALK.
YJi
fliolera; but he had been sober ever since his last conversation
vith the clergym an, and had done his duty to his fam ily up to the
ime o f his death.” “ I said to the w om an,” said the go o d old clergynan, in a grave low vo ice, “ ‘ Y o u r husband is gon e now to the p lace
where, accordin g to his con duct here, his eternal reward w ill be
issigned h im ; and let us b e tliankful to think w'hat a different
Dosition h e occupies now to that w hich he m ust have h eld had not
lis little girl been the m eans under G o d o f converting him .’ ”
Our n ext w'alk was to the C o u n ty H o sp ital, the handsom e edifice
which ornam ents the D ro gh ed a entrance o f the town, and w hich i
(lad remarked on m y arrival. C on cern in g this hospital, the governors
were, when I passed through D u ndalk, in a state o f no sm all agitation :
(or a gentlem an b y the nam e o f
, w ho, from bein g an apothecary’s
assistant in the p lace, had gon e forth as a sort o f am ateur inspector
hospitals throughout Ireland, had thought fit to censure their
atravagance in erecting the new building, stating that the old one
was fully sufficient to hold fifty patients, and that the p ublic m oney
Bight con sequently have been spared. M r.
’s plan for the
letter m aintenance o f them in general is, that com m issioners should
>e appointed to direct them , and n ot county gentlem en as heretobre; the discussion o f w hich question does n ot need to b e ca n ie d on
B this hum ble work.
My guide, w ho is one o f the governors o f the new hospital, conlucted m e in the first p lace to the o ld one— a sm all dirty house in
damp and low situation, w ith but three room s to accom m odate
atients, and these evidently n ot fit to hold fifty, or even fifteen
ttients. T h e new hospital is one o f the handsom est buildings ot
>e size and kin d in Ireland— an ornam ent to the town, as the angry
^tnmissioner stated, but n ot after all a building o f undue cost, for
e expense o f its erection was but 3,000/.; and the sick o f the
•Unty are far better accom m odated in it than in the dam p and
I w holesom e tenem ent regretted b y the eccen tric commissioner.
An E nglish architect, M r. Sm ith o f H ertford, designed and come te d the e d ific e ; strange to say, only exceed in g his estimates b y
^ sum o f three-and-sixpence, as the w orthy governor o f the hospital
th great trium ph told me. T h e building is certainly a w onder o f
leapness, and, w hat is m ore, so com plete for the purpose for w hich
Was intended, and so handsom e in appearance, that the architect’s
deserves to be published b v all who hear i t ; and if an y countr}'18
274
the
IRISH SK E TCH B O O K
notice this volume, they axe xeqoesbed to
house is provided w ith every conveniaa
the appurtenances o f b a t^ water,
convalescents ; and, below, a dnfpenwBj;
a handsom e board-room , kitchen, and m atron’s apartments, Ac
In deed, a noble requiring a house fo r a large establishm ent need not
desire a handsom er one than this, at its moderate price o f 3,ooot
T h e beauty o f this building has, as is almost always the case, aatsd
em ulation, and a terrace in the same taste has been raised in the
new spaper editors should
m ake the fact known. T h e
for men and wom en, with all
airy wards, and a garden for
neighbourhood o f the hospital.
From the hospital w e
bent our steps to the In s titu tio n ; o f wMd
and a copy o f the course o f study, tad
parents to consider the fiic t, that their
at this place for thirteen pounds a jmr.
the establishment savouring o f the Dothein any public school in England, sixtj
gentlem anlike boys than were here at w iL
been at work on E uclid as we came in, ffld
by
the stranger, to perform a sum of com
com plication, which, w ith its algAmk
was handed up to me by three o r fioiir of flt
p u p ils ; and I strove to lo o k as wise as I possibly could. Then Acj
w ent through questions o f m ental arithm etic w ith astonishii^ 0Q^
rectness and fa c ility ; and finding from the master tha t classia wem
not taught in the school, I took occasion to lam ent this dxcumstano^
saying, w ith a know ing air, that I would like to have examined d*
place I give below the rules,
the d ie ta ry : leaving E nglish
children can be educated
N o r is there anything in
boys H a l l*
I never saw,
cleaner, smarter, m ore
T h e upper class had
were set,
w ay o f am using
pound interest o f diabolical
and arithm etic solution,
lads in a G reek play.
* Boarders are received from the age of eight to fourteen at 12/. per aniA
and i/. for washing, paid quarterly in advance.
''D ay scholars arc received from the age o f ten to twdive at 2/., paid qmrtcdf
in advance.
•
"T h e Incorporated Society have abundant cause for bdiering that die intm’
duction of Boardei*s into their ^tablishments has produced fiir more d Sem SsffSe
results to the public than they could, at so early a period, have anttcâted; ^
that the election of boys to their Foundations tndy after a fiur compedtioB A k
others of a given district, has had the effect of stmnUadng masters and sdwlMi*
exertion and study, and promises to operate most beneficially for the advancew^
of religious and general knowledge.
" The districts for eligible Candidates are as follow :—
" Dundalk Institution embraces the counties of Loath and Down, became tH
properties which support it lie in this district
■[ " W
D U N D ALK IN STITU TION
ssics, then, these youn g fellow s d o not g e t
275
M eat they get
:e a w eek. L e t English parents b ear this fact in m in d ; but
e lads are healthy and happy, an yb o d y w ho sees them can
D q u e s tio n ; furtherm ore, they are w ell instructed in a sûnd
education— ^history, geography, m athem atics, religion. W h at
.1
e Pococke Institution, Kilkenny, embraces the counties of Kilkenny and
"d, for the same cause.
e Ranelagh Institution, the towns of Athlone and Roscommon, and three
in the counties of Galway and Roscommon, which the Incorporated Society
ee, or from which they receive impropriate tithes.
(Signed)
“
Cjesa k O t w
a y
,
Secretary."
Arrangcfnent o f School Business in Dundalk Ifistitution.
Monday. Wednesday,
and Friday.
Tuesday and Thursday.
Sattuday.
Rise, wash, &c.
Rise, wash, &c.
( Scripture by the Master, f Scripture by the Master,
\ and Prayer.
1 and prayer.
Reading, History, &c.
Reading, History, &c.
Breakfast.
Breakfast.
P lay.
Play.
Geography.
lo to II, Repetition.
Euclid,
f Lecture on principles of IX to 12, Use of Globes.
{ Arithmetic.
12 to I, Catechism and
Writing.
Scripture by the CateMensuration.
chist.
Dinner.
Dinner.
Play.
The remainder of this day
is devoted to exercise till
f Spelling, Mental Ariththe hour of Supper, after
1 metic, and Euclid.
which the Boys assem*
Supper.
ble
in the School-room
Exercise.
Exercise.
\ and hear a portion of
Scripture by the Master,
[ Scripture by the Master,
Scripture read and ex
■
t and prayer in Schooland prayer in School
plained by the Master,
[ room.
room.
as on other days, and
conclude with prayer.
Retire to bed.
Retire to bed.
Rise, wash, &c.
] Scripture by the Master,
\ and prayer.
Readin;;, History, &c.
Breakfast.
Play.
English Grammar.
Algebra.
Scripture.
Writing,
f Arithmetic at Desks, and
1 Book-keeping.
Dinner.
Play.
f Spelling, Mental ArithI mctic, and Euclid,
j Supper.
nces of Navigation and practical Surveying are taught in the Establishment, also a
election of the Pupils, who have a taste for it, are instructed in the art of Drawing.
Dietary.
ICFAST.—Stirabout and Milk, every Morning.
EB.— On Sunday and Wednesday, Potatoes and Beef; lo ounces of the latter to each
I Monday and Thursday, Bread and Broth; |lb. of the former to each boy. On Tuesday,
and Saturday, Potatoes and Milk; slbs. of the former to each boy.
SR.—|lb. of Bread with Milk, uniformly, except on Monday and Thunday: on these
itatocs and Milk.
276
THE IRISH SK ETCH B O O K
a p lace to know o f w ould this be for m any a p o o r b a lfp a y officer,
where he m ay put his children in all confidence that they will be
w ell cared for and soundly educated I W h y h a v e w e not Stateschools in E n gland, w here, for the prim e co st— ^for a sum irtiidi
n ever need e x ce ed for a youn g bo y’s m aintenance 25/. a year— w
children m ight be brought up ? W e arc establishing national-sdioch
for the la b o u r e r : w hy not give education to th e sons o f the poor
gen try— the clergym an whose pittance is small, and w ould still grte
his son the benefit o f a p u b lic ed u ca tio n ; th e artist, the officer,
the m erchant’s office-clerk, the literary m a n ? W h at a benefit lajght
b e conferred upon all o f us i f honest charter-schools could bc
established for our children, and w here it w ould b e impossible fir
Squeers to m ake a profit I *
O ur next day’s journ ey led us, b y half-past ten o ’d o c k , to dte
ancient toivn o f Lou th , a little p o o r village now , b u t a great seat of
learning and piety, it is said, form erly, w here there stood a nnrfti*
sity and abbeys, and w here Saint P atrick w orked w on d cn i Here
m y kin d friend the rector w as colled upon to m arry a" smart
sergeant o f police to a p retty lass, one o f the few Protestants 160
attend his church ; and, the cerem ony over, w e were Invited to the
house o f the bride's father hard by, where th e cle ig y m a n was boond
to cut tlie cake and drink a glass o f w ine to the h ealth o f the nevmarried couple.
T h ere was evidently to b e a d an ce and some
m errim ent in the course o f the e v e n in g ; for the g o o d m other o f (he
bride (oh, blessed is he w ho has a go o d m other-in-law I) was hasf
a t a huge fire in the little kitchen, and alon g the rood w c met
various parties o f neatly-dressed p eo p le, and several o f the sergeuit's
com rades, w ho were hastening to the w edding. T h e m istress o f the
rector’s darling Infant-School was one o f the brid esm a id s: conse
quently the little ones had a holiday.
But he was not to be disappointed o f Ips Infant-School in dtts
m anner ; so, m ounting the car again, w ith a fresh horse, w e went a
very pretty drive o f three miles to the snug lo n e school-house d
* The Proprietary Schools of late established have gone Ur to pracect As
interests of parents and children; but the masters of these schools take boaido^
and of course draw profits from them. Why make the learned man a beef M i
mutton contractor ? It would be easy to airange (he eeooomy o f m aehool m dnt
there should be no possibility of a want of confidence^ or o f pccnlatioi^ to fho
detriment of the pupil.
LOi'Tlf.
Clyde
277
F a r m — nea r a h a n d s o m e park, I be l i e ve (7 the s a me n ame ,
where the proprietor is building a m ansion o f the T u d o r order.
The pretty scene of Dundalk was here played over again: the
children sang their little hymns, the good old clergyman joined
delighted in the chorus, the holiday was given, and the little hands
held up, and I looked at more clean bright faces and little rosy feet.
The scene need not be repeated in print, but I can understand
what pleasure a man must take in the daily witnessing of it, and
in the growth of these little plants, which are set and tended by his
care. As we returned to Louth, a woman met us with a curtsey
and expressed her sorrow that she had been obliged to withdraw her
daughter from one of the rector’s schools, which the child was vexed
at leaving too. But the orders of the priest were peremptory; and
who can say they were unjust ? The priest, on his side, was only
enforcing the rule which the parson maintains as h is:— the latter will
not permit his young flock to be educated except upon certain
principles and by certain teachers; the former has his own scruples
unfortunately also— and so that noble and brotherly scheme of
National Education falls to the ground. In Louth, the nationalschool was standing by the side of the priest’s chapel: it is so almost
everywhere throughout Ireland: the Protestants have rejected, on
very good motives doubtless, the chance of union Avhich the Educa
tion Board gave them. Be it so ! if the children of either sect be
educated apart, so that they be educated, the education scheme will
have produced its good, and the union will come afterwards.
The church at Louth stands boldly upon a hill looking down on
the village, and has nothing remarkable in it but neatness, except the
monument of a former rector, Dr. Little, which attracts the spec
tator’s attention from the extreme inappropriateness of the motto
on the coat-of-arms of the reverend defunct. It looks rather unor
thodox to read in a Christian temple, where a man’s bones have the
honour to lie— and where, if anywhere, humility is requisite— that
there is multum in Parvo: “ a great deal in Little.” O Little, in life
you were not much, and l o ! you are less now; why should filial
piety engrave that pert pun upon your monument, to cause pf ople to
laugh'in a place where they ought to be grave? The defunct doctor
built a very handsome rectory-house, with a set of stables that w'ould
be useful to a nobleman, but are rather too commodious for a
I)eaceful rector who does not ride to hounds; and it was in Little’s
278
THE IR ISH S K E T C H B O O K
time, I believe, that the church was removed fio m the did dibej,
where it formerly stood, to its present proud position on the ISL
The abbey is a fine ruin, the windows o f a good style, the tn o ^
of carvings on many of them; but a great num ber o f stonei ad
ornaments Avere removed formerly to b u ild fsurm-buildings withd,
and the place is now as rank and ruinous as the generality of K i
burying-places seem to be. Skulls lie in dusters amongst VKXStbeds by the abbey-walls; graves are only p a rtia lly covered w itii nde
stones ; a fresh coffin Avas lying broken in pieces w ith in the aMiî
and the surgeon of the dispensary hard by m ight procure snbjectt
here almost Avithout grave-breaking.
H ard by the abbqr » t
building of Avhich I beg leave to offer the follow ing in tm tiig
sketch.
The legend in the country goes that the place was b u ilt for fte
accommodation of “ Saint Murtogh,” who lyin g down to sleqi heie
in the open fields, not having any place to house under, fb d n d to liii
surprise, on waking in the morning, the above edifice, wfaidi Ite
angels had built. The angelic architecture, it w ill be seen, is of
rather a rude kind; and the village antiquary, who takes a p i^ in
showing the place, says that the building Avas erected two ikouud
years ago. In the handsome grounds o f the rectory is another iipot
visited by popular tradition— a fairy’s rin g : a r ^ la r mound o f seane
thirty feet in height, flat and even on the top, and provided wWi i
winding path for the foot-passengers to ascend. Some trees grew on
the mound, one of Avhich was removed in order to make the wHt
But the country-people cried out loudly at this deseoatioo, and
vowed that the “ little people ” had quitted the countryside for ever
in consequence.
While walking in the town, a woman meets the re cto r
number of curtsies and compliments, and vows tha t “ ^ y o a r ie v a
ence is the friend of the poor, and may the Lo rd p reserve you toiB
and lady; ” and having poured out blessings innumerable^ coodndfes
w i4 t
A PETITIONER.
279
producing a p ap er for her son that’s in throuble in E n gland.
The paper ran to the effect that “ W e, the undersigned, inhabitants
>f the parish o f L ou th , have kn ow n D a n iel H o rga n ever since his
X)uth, an d can speak con fiden tly as to his integrity, piety, and go o d
induct.” In fact, the paper stated that D a n iel H o rgan w as an
lonour to his country, and con sequently quite in cap able o f the
rime o f— sack-stealing I th in k— ^with w hich at present he w as charged,
nd lay in prison in D urham Castle.
T h e paper had, I should
Wnk, com e dow n to the poor m other from D urham , with a direction
Kidy w ritten to d esp atch it b a ck again w hen signed, and w as
vidently the w ork o f one o f those benevolen t individuals in assize>wns, w ho, fo llo w n g the profession o f the law, delight to extricate
uhappy y o u n g m en o f w hose in nocence (from various six-andghtpenny m otives) th ey feel co n vin ced .
T h e re stood the poor
other, as the rector exam ined the docum ent, w ith a huge wafer
her han d, read y to forward it so soon as it w as s ig n e d : for
e truth is that “ W e, the un dersigned,” were as yet m erely
laginary.
“ Y o u don ’t com e to church,” says the rector. “ I kn ow n othing
‘ y o u or your son : w hy don ’t you go to the priest ? ”
“ O h , your reverence, m y son’s to b e tried n ext T u e sd a y ,”
lim p e re d the wom an. She then said the priest w as n ot in the w ay,
it, a s w e had seen him a few m inutes before, recalled the assertion,
d con fessed that she had been to the priest and that he w ould
•t s i g n ; and fell to prayers, tears, and unbounded supplications to
i u c e the rector to giv e his signature. B u t that hard-hearted divine,
itin g that he had
not kn ow n D an iel H o rgan from his youth upwards,
a t h e could n ot certify as to his hon esty or dishonesty, enjoined the
>man to m ake an attem pt upon the R . C . curate, to w hose handi t i n g he w ould certify if need w'ere.
T h e upshot o f the m atter was that the w om an returned w ith a
rtifica te from the R . C . curate as to her son’s good behaviour
liile in the village, and the rector certified that the hand-writing was
a t o f the R . C . clergym an in question, and the w om an popp ed her
g re d wafer into the letter and w ent her w ay.
T u e sd a y is passed lo n g ere t h is : M r. H o rgan ’s guilt or innocence
lo n g since clearly proved, and he celebrates the latter in freedom ,
• exp iates the form er at the m ill. In deed, I don’t know that there
as a n y ca ll to introduce his adventures to the public, excep t perhaps.
28o
t h e IRISH SK E TCH BOOK.
how in this little distant Iris h vfllage the
goes a happy party to a marriage, and
“
bless y o u !" upon them , and the worid
stall-fed rector in his tom b, flanntiiig
o ver his nothingness his pom pous heraldic m o tto : and yonder lie the
fresh fragm ents o f a nam eless deal coffin, which any foot may kick
over. Presently you hear the clear voices o f little ^ ild re n pnusii^
G o d ; and here com es a m other w ringing her hands and asldqg for
succour for her lad, w ho w as a child but the other day. Such fMter
an 'unorum atgue hac certamina tanta are going on in an hour of an
O cto b e r d ay in a little p inch o f clay in the county Louth.
Perhaps, bein g in the m oralizing strain, the honest .suxgeon at
the dispensary m ight com e in as an illustration. H e inhabits a nest
hum ble house, a storey higher than his neighbours*, bu t w ith a thatdied
roof. H e relieves a thousand patients yearly at the dispensary, he
visits seven hundred in the parish, he supplies the m edicines gratis;
and receivin g for these services the sum o f about one hundred poondi
yearly, som e coun ty econom ists an d calculators are loud against fee
extravagan ce o f his salary, and threaten his rem oval
A ll these
individuals and their histories we p resen tly turn our backs upon, fii;
after all, dinner is at five o’clock, and we have to see the new losd
to D u n dalk, w hich the county has lately been making.
O f this undertaking, w hich shows some skilfu l engineering— sooe
gallan t cutting o f rocks and hills, and fillin g o f valleys, w ith a taUand
handsom e stone brid ge thrown across the river, and connectmg As
high em bankm ents on w hich th e new road at that place is fioimed-*
1 can say little, excep t that it is a vast convenience to the coun^,asd
a great credit to the surveyor and contractor to o ; fo r the latto;
though a poor man, and losing heavily by his bargain, lias yet idoied
to m ulct his labourers o f their wages; and, as cheerfully as he ctii;
,still pays them their shilling a day.
it m ay be go o d to see
blood o f life is ninning. H ere
the parson prays a
G od
begins for them. Y o n d e r lies a
(
28i
CHAPTER
)
X X V II .
EWRY, ARMAGH, BELFAST— FROM DUNDALK TO NEWRY.
d host ga ve orders to the sm all ragged b o y that drove the
ake “ particular care o f the little g e n tle m a n ; ” and the carinning in app reciation o f the jo k e , d rove o ff at his b est p ace,
ided his cargo at Newry after a pleasant tw o hours* drive,
untry for the m ost part is wild, but not g lo o m y ; the m ountains
ibout are adorn ed with w oods and gen tlem en ’s s e a t s ; and the
p oin ted out one hill— that o f Slievegullion, w hich kep t us
ly all the w ay— as the highest hill in Irelan d .
Ign o ran t or
Dg car-boy ! I have seen a dozen hills, each the highest in
, in m y w ay through the country, o f w hich the in exorable
)Ook g ives the m easurem ent and destroys the claim.’ W ell,
he tallest hill, in the estim ation o f the c a r-b o y ; and in this
:he w orld is full o f car-boys. H a s not every m other o f a fam ily
sgullion o f a son, w ho, accordin g to her m easurem ent, towers
lH other so n s? I s n ot the patriot, Avho believes h im self equal
; Frenclim en , a car-boy in heart ? T h e re Avas a kin d yo u n g
i, with a child in her lap, that evid en tly held this notion. She
e ch ild a series o f com plim ents, Avhich w ould have led one to
e Avas an angel from heaven at the le a s t ; and her husband
rely b y , very silent, with his arms round a barom eter,
ond these there were no incidents or characters o f note, excep t
ostler that th ey said w as n inety years old, and w atered the
it a lone inn on the road.
“ S t o p ! ” cries this w onder o f
nd rags, as the car, after con siderable parley, go t under weigh,
r-boy pulled up, thinking a fresh passenger w as com in g out o f
'op, till one o f the gentlemen gives me something^ says the old
)m ing slow ly up w ith us : w hich sp eech created a laugh, and
I a penny : he received it w ithout the least thankfulness, and
vay grum bling to his pail.
vry is rem arkable as bein g the o n ly town I haAê seen w hich
282
THE IRISH SK E TC H B O O K
had no cabin s u b u r b : strange to say, the houses begin all at once^
handsom ely co ated and hatted with stone and slate; and if Dtaidk
was prosperous, N ew ry is better stilL Such a sight of neatnoi ind
com fort is exceed in gly w elcom e to an English traveller, who^more
over, finds himself, after driving through a plain bustling dean tfreet,
landed a t a large plain comfortable inn, where business seems tobe
done, w here there are smart waiters to receive him, and acomfartiUe
w arm coffee-room that bears no traces of dilapidation.
W hat the merits o f the cuisine may be I can’t say for the infixoition of tra v e lle rs ; a gentlem an to whom I had brought a letter ftoD
D u n d alk taking care to provide me at his own table; accompmjiBg
m e previously to visit the lions of the town. A river divides it, add
the counties o f A rm agh and Down: the river runs into the sea tk
Carlingford B ay, and is con n ected by a canal with Lough Nea(^ w
oi
thus witli the N orth o f Ireland. Steamers to Liverpool and CiM
SgBU
sail continually. T h e re are mills, foundries, and manu&ctories, of
w hich the G uide-book w ill
give particulars ; and the town of 13,000
inhabitants is the busiest and most thriving that I have yet seenia
Ireland.
. O ur first w alk was to the church : a large and handsome buildmg
although built in the un lu ck y period when the Gothic style wm
com in g into vogue. Hence one must question the propriety of m uj
o f the ornam ents, though the whole is massive, wdl-finiêd, and
stately. N ear the church stands the Roman Catholic chapel, a veqr
fine building, the w ork o f the same architect, Mr. Duff, who erected
the chapel at D u n d a lk ; but, like almost all other edifices of the kind
in Irelan d that I h ave seen, the interior is quite unfinished, and
already so dirty and ruinous, that one would ^nk a sort of geumfor dilapidation m ust have been exercised in order to faring it to iti
present condition. T h e re are tattered green-baize doors to enteral;
a dirty clay floor, and crack ed plaster walls, with an injunction'to tte
p ublic n ot to spit on the floor. Maynooth itsctf is scarcdy moif
dreary. T h e architect’s w ork, however, does him the highest credit:
the interior o f the church is noble and simple in style; and one aalt
b ut grieve to see a fine work of art, that might
the country, so defaced and ruined as this is.
T h e N ew ry poor-house is as
an y house, public or private, in
w hich was so pleasant to see
^ve dtme goodto
neatly ordered and comfortddfriB
Irelwd: the same look 4if hott
among the Naas children of the umofr
N EW R Y— ARMAGH.
283
ouse was to b e rem arked here : the same care and com fort for the
Id people. O f able-bodied there w ere b ut few in the house : it is
1 winter th a t there are m ost applicants for this kin d o f re lie f; the
unshine attracts th e w om en out o f the place, and the harvest relieves
• o f the m en. Clean liness, the m atron said, is m ore in tolerable to
lost o f the inm ates than a n y other regulation o f th e h o u se ; and
^stantly on quitting the house they relapse into their darling dirt,
nd o f course at their p eriodical return are subject to the un avoidab le
litiatory lustration.
N ew ry has m an y com fortable and handsom e p u b lic b u ild in g s :
le streets h a ve a business-like lo o k, the shops and p eo p le are n ot
>0 p oor, and the southern gran diloquence is n ot show n here in the
lape o f fine w ords for sm all wares. E ve n the beggars are n ot so
jm erous, I fancy, o r so co a xin g and w heedlin g in their talk,
erhaps, too, am ong the gen try, the sam e m oral chan ge m a y b e
m a rk ed , and they seem m ore dow nright and plain in their
a n n e r ; but one m ust n ot pretend to sp eak o f national characristics from such a sm all exp erien ce as a coup le o f evenings*
terco u rse m ay give.
A lth o u g h not equal in natural b eau ty to a hundred other routes
l i c h th e traveller takes in the South, the ride from N e w ry to
•m agh is an extrem ely pleasan t one, on accoun t o f the undeniable
c r e a s e o f prosperity w hich is visible through the country. W ellle d fields, n eat farm-houses, w ell-dressed p eo p le, m eet one everyle r e , and peop le and landscape a lik e h ave a plain, hearty, flourishing
ok.
T h e greater part o f A rm agh has the asp ect o f a go o d stout o ld
ig l is h town, although round about the steep on w hich the cathedral
in d s (the R om an C ath o lics h ave taken possession o f another hill,
id are building an opposition cath edral on this em inence) there
e som e d e cid ed ly Irish streets, and that dism al com bination of
)u se and p igsty w hich is so com m on in M un ster and C o n n a u g h t
B u t the m ain streets, though n ot fine, are bustling, substantial,
id prosperous ; and a fine green has som e o ld trees and som e go o d
>uses, and even handsom e stately p u b lic buildings, round abou t it,
lat rem ind one o f a com fortable cath edral city across the water.
T h e cathedral service is m ore co m p letely perform ed here than in
l y E n glish town, I think. T h e church is sm all, b ut extrem ely n eat,
esh and handsom e— alm ost too h a n d so m e; co vered w ith spick-and-
284
th e
IRISH SK ETCH BOOK.
span gildin g and ca n e d -w o rk in the style o f the thirteen th century:
every pew as sm art and w ell-cushioned as m y lord’s ow n scat ta Ac
country' church ; and for the clergy and their chief, stalls and thrones
quite curious for iheir ornam ent and splendour. T h e Primate wiA
his blue riband an{l badge (to w hom the tw o clergym en b o w revcrtBtly
as, passing betw een them, he enters a t the gate o f th e a lta r rail) loob
like a n oble P rince o f the C h urch ; and
had heard enough of t e
1
m agnificent charity and kindness to look W'lth reveren ce a t hisk)i7
handsom e features.
W ill it b e believed that th e sermon lasted o n ly for twenty
m in utes?
C an this be Ire la n d ? I think this w onderful ciicunb
stan ce im pressed m e m ore than an y other with the difference between
N orth and South, and, havin g the Prim ate’s ow n countenance ifX
the opinion, m ay confess a great adm iration for o rth o d o x y in Ais
particular.
A beautiful m onum ent to A rch bish op Stuart, b y C hantrey; t
m agnificent stained w indow , con tain in g the arm s o f the c lc ig y o f Ae
diocese (in the very m idst o f w hich I was glad to reco gn ize the sob«t
old fam ily co at o f the kin d and ven erable rector o f Louth), a ri
num berless carvings and decorations, wiW please th e lo v e r o f chuich
architecture here.
I must confess, how ever, that in m y idea Ae
cathedral is quite too com plete. It is o f the twelfth century, but not
the least venerable. It is as neat and trim as a ladjr’s dmwiog'-rooflk
It Avants a hundred years at least to co o l the raw colours o f A<
stones, and to dull the brightness o f the g ild in g : all w hich benicfitS)
no doubt, tim e Avill bring to pass, and future C o ck n e y s setting off
from L on d o n Bridge after breakfast in an aerial m a ch in e m ay coflw
to hear the m orning service here, and not remark the fiiults whkk
h ave struck a too susceptible tourist o f the nineteenth centuiy.
Strolling round the towm after sendee, I saw more decided si^
that Protestantism Avas there in the ascendant I saw no less thin
three different ladies on the prow l, dropping religious tracts it
various doors ; and felt n ot a little ashamed to be seen by one of
them gettin g into a ca r w ith b a g and baggage, being bound ibr
B e lfa s t
T h e ride o f ten m iles from A rm agh to
prettiest, but one o f the pleasantest drives
for the coun try is aa'cII cultivated
Portadown w as not Ao’
I have had in Iielu4
along the whole of Ae ioad| tbl
ULSTER PEASAN TR Y.
285
?es in p len ty, and villages an d n eat houses alw ays in s ig h t
The
tie farm s, w ith their orchards and com fortable buildings, were as
;a n a n d trim as co u ld b e w is h e d : they ^ e m ostly o f one storey,
th lo n g thatched roofs and shining w indow s, such as those that
ly b e seen in N o rm an dy an d P icard y.
A s it was Sun day evening,
th e p eo p le seem ed to b e abroad, som e sauntering quietly dow n
B roads, a pair o f girls here and there p acin g leisurely in a field,
lit tle group seated under the trees o f an orchard, w hich p retty
ju n c t to the farm is very com m on in this d is tr ic t; and the crop o f
p ie s seem ed this y ea r to b e extrem ely plenty. T h e p hysiognom y
t h e p eo p le too has quite chan ged : the girls h ave their hair n eatly
a id e d up, n ot loose o ver their faces as in the s o u th ; and n o t o n ly
5 b a r e feet very rare, and stockings extrem ely neat and w hite, but
im sure I saw at least a do zen go o d silk gow ns upon th e w om en
>ng th e road, and scarcely one w hich was not clean and in go o d
der. T h e m en for the m ost part figured in jackets, caps, and
>users, eschew ing the old w ell o f a hat w hich covers the popular
a d a t the other end o f the island, the breeches, and the lo n g illi d e tail-coat. T h e p eo p le’s faces are sharp and neat, n ot broad,
sy, know ing-looking, like that o f m any a sham bling D io gen es w ho
3ty b e seen lounging before his cabin in C o rk or K erry. A s for the
b in s , th ey have d is a p p e a re d ; and the houses o f the p eop le m ay
n k d e cid ed ly as cottages. T h e accent, too, is quite d ifferen t; but
is is hard to describe in p rin t T h e p eop le speak w ith a S cotch
a n g , and, as I fancied, m uch m ore sim ply and to the p o in t A
pm giv es you a dow nright answer, w ithout an y grin or jo k e , or
tem p t at flattery. T o b e sure, these are rather early days to begin to
d g e o f national ch a ra cteristics; and very lik e ly the above distinc>ns h ave been draw n after profoundly studying a N orthern and a
m th e m w aiter at the inn at A rm agh.
A t any rate, it is clear that the towns are vastly im proved, the
ittages and villages n o less s o ; the p eop le look a ctive and well•esse d ; a sort o f w eight seem s all at o n ce to b e taken from the
nglishm an’s m ind on entering the province, w hen he finds him self
ic e m ore lo o kin g upon com fort and a ctivity, and resolution. W h at
the cause o f this im provem ent ? Protestantism is, m ore than one
hurch-of-England m an said to m e ; but, for Protestantism , w ould
n o t b e as w ell to read Sco tch ism ?— m eaning thrift, prudence,
erseverance, boldness, and com m on sen se:
wi\h w hich qualities
286
an y b o d y o f men, o f a n y C hristian denom inaticm , v p u ld no'doifat
prosper.
T h e little brisk town o f Portadown, with its ooinfortable:in(i»
tending houses, its squares an d market-place, its pretty qn^, viA
craft alon g the river,— a steam er building on the dock, c t o c to
m ills and w arehouses that look in a fiill state of prosperity^Hvn
a pleasant conclusion to this ten miles’ drive, thiU,ended rt Ae
n ew ly opened railway-station.
T h e distance hence to Bdfiot ii
twenty-five m ile s ; L ou gh N eag h maybe seen at one point of
an d the G uide-book says that the station-towns of L m g a n tad
L isbu rn are extrem ely p ictu re sq u e ; but it was night when 1 piised
b y them, and after a jo u rn ey o f on hour and a quarter reached Bdfat
T h a t city lias been discovered by another eminent Cocb9
traveller (for though b o m in America, the dear old Bow-bell blood
must run in the veins o f M r. N. P. Willis), and 1 have met, in.Ac
periodical w orks o f the country, with repeated angry allusions toUi
description o f B elfast, the p in k heels of the chambw-maid who Oto
ducted him to bed (what business had he to be looking at the yosog
w om an’s legs at a ll? ) and his wrath at the beggary of the ton
and the laziness o f the inhabitants, as marked by a line of.dirt
running alon g the walls, and show ing where they were in the hitt
o f lolling.
T h e se observations struck m e as rather hard when applied to
B elfast, though p ossibly p in k heels and beggary might be lemaAed
in other cities o f the k in g d o m ; but the town of BeJfast seemed-to
me really to be as neat, prosperous, and handsome a dty as .need be
s e e n ; and, with respect to th e inn, that in which I stayed,. “ KeanA^*
an establishment as the mort
and with an advantage whidi
peo[)le perhaps do n ot care for, that the diimers which cost i
shillings at L on d o n taverns are here served for half-«?crown; birt^
I m ust repeat here, in ju stice to the public, what 1 stst^ to
M r. W illiam the w aiter, viz. that »half a pint of port-wint dto
contain m ore than tw o glasses— at least it does in happy, heppi
E ngland. . . O n ly, to b e sure, here the wine is good, w bam
port-wine in E n glan d is n ot port, but for the most part 0
abom inable drink o f w hich it would be a mercy only to give us tR
®
gla sses: which, how ever, is clearly wandering from the sobjedtto
w as as com fortable and well-ordered
fastidious C o ck n e y can desire,
hand.
BELFAST.
287
T h e y ca ll B elfast the Irish L iverp ool. I f peop le are for callin g
la m e s , it w ould b e better to call it the Irish L o n d o n at o n ce— the
:h ie f c it y o f the kin gdom at an y rate.
I t lo o ks hearty, thriving, and
>rosperous, as i f it had m on ey in its p o ck e ts and roast-beef for
l i n n e r : it has no pretensions to fashion, but looks m ayhap better in
ts h o n e s t broad-cloth than some people in their sh abby brocade. T h e
lo u s e s are as handsom e as a t D u blin, w ith this advantage, that the
> eop le seem to live in them. T h e y h ave no attem pt at ornam ent for
;he m o st part, but are grave, stout, red-brick edifices, laid out at four
m g le s in orderly streets and squares.
T h e stranger can n o t fail to b e struck (and hap ly a little frightened)
l y t h e great num ber o f m eeting-houses that decorate the town, and
j i v e e v id e n ce o f great serm onizing on Sundays. T h e se buildings do
l o t affe ct the G o th ic, like m any o f the m eagre edifices o f the
Elstablished an d the R o m a n C a th o lic churches, but h ave a physi> g n o m y o f their ow n— a thick-set citizen look. P o rticoes have they,
:o b e sure, and ornam ents D o ric, Io n ic, and w hat n o t? but the
iie e tin g -h o u se p eeps through all these classical friezes and entabla:u r e s ; and though one reads o f “ Im itations o f the Io n ic T em p le o f
[lis s u s , near A th en s,” the classic tem ple is m ade to assum e a bluff,
io w n r ig h t, P resbyterian air, w hich w ould astonish the original builder,
d o u b tless.
T h e churches o f the E stablishm ent are handsom e
m d stately.
T h e C a th o lics are buildin g a b rick cathedral, no
d o u b t o f the T u d o r style :— the present chap el, flanked b y the
n atio n al-sch o o ls, is an e x ceed in gly unprepossessing buildin g o f
th e Straw b erry H ill or C a stle o f O tran to G o th ic : the k eys and
m itre figuring in the centre— “ T h e cross-keys and nightcap,”
as a hard-hearted Presbyterian ca lled them to m e, with his blun t
hu m o u r.
T h e three churches are here p retty equ ally b a la n c e d : P resb y
te ria n s 25,000, C a th o lics 20,000, E piscopalian s 17,000. E a ch party
h a s tw o or m ore n ew spaper o rg a n s ; and the wars betw een them
a r e dire and unceasing, as the reader m ay im agine.
F o r w hereas in
o th e r parts o f Irelan d w here C ath o lics and Episcopalians prevail, and
th e P resb yterian b o d y is too sm all, each party has b u t one opponent
t o b e la b o u r : here the U lster politician, w hatever m ay b e his w ay o f
thin kin g, has the great advantage o f possessing tw o enem ies on
w hom he m ay exercise his e lo q u e n c e ; and in this triangular d lel all
do their d u ty n obly. T h e n there are subdivisions o f hostility. F o r
m ay ue tound in the
let us be sure the Bannc}
IV/iig in return ; if the “ Ri
the Tresbytcrian journals ai
gentlem en
o f G en ev a are
brethren o f R o m e, and n ot i
than the laity. W h en I was
betw een P resbyterian and Ep
th e M arriage B i l l ; betw een
su bject o f the “ hom e mission*
tives, o f course. “ T h a n k G
journ al, “ that the honour ant
th e disgraceful A fghan w a r ! ’ som ething m o r e ; disow ning, m
sovereign and her jurisdictio;
quarrels, religious or p olitical, <
o f the coun try. E ven in it, as t
religious differences, an obser
n ecessarily displease eight pai
n i n e ; and the reader w ho dt
m ust study for him self.
N in
num bers in a year, each num
o ctav o volu m e : these, and 1
sedu lously read, w ill give the
question.
A n d then, after havi
Pi p r n i i c f
-----"
BOOKS AN D PICTURES.
289
g e a n d substantial p lace that bears, to th e stranger’s eye, an un)sp erous air. A vast buildin g, stan din g fairly in the m idst o f a
n dsom e green and place, and w ith snug, com fortable red-brick
eets stretch ing aw ay at neat right angles all around, the Presby•ian C o lle g e lo o ks handsom e enough at a short distan ce, but on a
arer view is found in a w oful state o f dilapidation. I t does n o t
•ssess the suprem e dirt and filth o f M a yn o o th — that can b ut b elo n g
one p lace, even in Ireland ; but the bu ild in g is in a dism al state
unrepair, steps and w indow s broken , doors and stairs battered,
f scholars I saw biit a few, and these were in the draw ing academ y,
le fine arts do n ot appear as yet to flourish in B e lfa s t T h e m odels
>m w hich the lads were co p yin g w ere n o t g o o d : one was co p yin g
bad c o p y o f a draw ing b y P r o u t ; o n e w as colourin g a p r in t T h e
Igtd ch ild ren in a G erm an national-school h ave b etter m odels
fore them , and are m ade acquain ted w ith truer prin ciples o f art
d beauty.
H a rd b y is the Belfast M useum , w here an exhibition o f pictures
s in preparation, under the patronage o f the B elfast A rt U n io n .’
tists in all parts o f the kin gdom had been in vited to send their
rk s, o f w hich the U n io n pays the c a rr ia g e ; and the porters and
rretary w ere busy un p ack in g cases, in w hich I recogn ized som e o f
; w o rk s w hich had before figured on the w alls o f the L o n d o n E xhiio n room s.
T h e book-shops w hich I saw in this thriving tow n said m uch for
i religio u s disposition o f the Belfast p ublic : there w ere num erous
rtraits o f reverend gentlem en, and their w orks o f every v a r ie t y :—
The Sin ner’s F rien d ,” “ T h e W atchm an on the T o w e r,” “ T h e
e p o f D a y ,” “ Serm ons delivered at B ethesda C h a p el,” b y so-and; w ith hundreds o f the n eat little gilt b o o k s w ith bad prints,
ip tu r a l titles, and gilt edges, that co m e from one o r tw o serious
b lish in g houses in L o n d o n , and in con siderable num bers from the
igh bourin g S cotch shores. A s for the theatre, w ith such a public
t dram a can b e exp ected to find but little fa v o u r ; and the gentlein w h o accom pan ied m e in m y w alk, and to whom I am in debted
* m a n y kindnesses during m y stay, said n ot o n ly that he h ad n ever
e n in the playhouse, but that he n ever heard o f an y one go in g
ither. I found out the p lace w here the p o or n eglected D ram atic
use o f U lster h id h e rse lf; and w as o f a p arty o f six in the boxes,
e b en ch es o f the p it bein g d o tted o ver w ith ab ou t a score m ore.
19
290
W e ll, it was a com fort to see that the galleiy
e xceed in gly hap py and n o is y : they stamped,
was quite fiill, wad
and stormed, sad
shouted, and cla p p ed in a w ay that was pleasant to hear. OneyonoK
god, betw een the acts, favoured the public with a song—eztremdf
ill sung certain ly, b u t the intention w as eveiythirig; and his hrethm
a b o v e stam ped in chorus w ith roars of delight
A s for the p iece perform ed, it was a good old melodrama of fee
British sort, in culcatin g a thorough detestation of vice and a mm
sym pathy w ith suffering virtue. The serious are surely too hard qxm
p o or play-goers. W e n ever for a moment allow rascality to
beyon d a certain part o f the third act: we sympathize with the woo
o f youn g lovers —her in ringlets and a Polish cap, him in
and
a V a n d y k e c o lla r ; w e abhor avarice or tyranny in the person of “the
first old m an ” w ith the w hite wig and red stockings, or of the viDiiii
w ith the roaring vo ice an d black whiskers; we applaud the honot
w ag (he is a go o d fellow in spite of his cowardice) in his hear^ joti
at the tyrant before m e n tio n e d ; and feel a kindly sympathy with iD
m ankind as the curtain falls over all the characters in a group; of
w h ich successful lo ve is the happy centre. ’ Reverend gendemen in
m eeting-house and church, who shout against the immoralities offeh
p o or stage, and threaten all play-goers with the fate which is awarded
to unsuccessful plays, should try and bear less hardly upon us.
A n artist— ^who, in spite o f the Art Union, can scarcely, 1 shoald
thin k, flourish in a p lace that seems devoted to preaching, pdBdci»
an d trade— has som ehow found his way to this humble little theatff;
and decorated it w ith some exceedingly pret^ scenery - almost fel
on ly indication o f a taste for the fine arts which I have found as jet
in the country.
A fine night-exhibition in
the town is that of the huge spinmnf
of which the thousand windoiws ne
m ay be seen fixHn almost all quaiten of
m ills w hich surround it, and
ligh ted up at nightfall, and
the city.
A gentlem an to w hom I had brought an introduction goodr
n aturedly left his w ork to walk with me to one of these miD%wad
stated b y w hom he h ad been introduced to meto the mill-praprieK
M r. M ulhoU and.
That recommendation,” said Mr. MnUwlM
gallantly, *‘ is welcome anywhere.” It was from my kind fiiM j
Mr. Lever. AVhat a privilege some men hav^ who can sit qdeî* \
their studies and make friends all the world over 1
FLAX-SPINNING MILLS.
291
re is th e figure o f a girl sketch ed in th e p la c e : there are
five hu ndred girls em ployed in i t
T h e y w ork in hu ge lo n g
ITS, ligh ted b y num bers o f w indow s, h o t with steam , b u zzin g
m m ing w ith hundreds o f thousands o f w hirling w heels, that all
eir m otion from a steam -engine w hich lives apart in a h ot castn p le o f its own, from w hich it com m unicates w ith the innue m achines that the five hundred girls preside over. T h e y
lem ingly b u t to tak e aw ay the w ork w hen done— the enorm ous
:r in the cast-iron room does it all. H e cards the flax, and
it, and spins it, and beats it, and twists i t ; the five hundred
in d b y to feed him , or "take the m aterial from him, w hen he
i his w ill o f i t
T h e re is som ething frightful in the vastness
le m inuteness o f this power. E v e ry thread writhes an d twirls
steam-fate orders it,— every thread, o f w hich it w ould take a
d to m ake the thickn ess o f a hair.
iv e seldom , I think, seen m ore go o d lo o ks than am ongst the
women em ployed in this place. T h e y w ork for tw elve hours
n. room s o f w hich th e heat is intolerable to a stra n g er; but in
" it th ey lo o ked gay, stout, and h e a lth y ; n or were their forms
oncealed b y the very sim ple clothes th ey w ear w hile in the m ill
392
T h e stranger ivill be struck b y th e g o o d lo o ks n o t o n ly o f these
spinsters, but o f alm ost all the y o u n g w om en in th e streets. 1 otver
saw a town where so m any wom en are to be m et— so many and ^
pretty —ivith and w ithout bonnets, with g o o d figurosi, in neat bonxiy
' shawls and dresses. T h e grlsettes o f Belfost are am o n g the hand- ^
somest ornam ents o f i t ; and as go o d , no, doubt, a n d irreproachable in
morals as their sisters in the rest o f Ireland.
M an y o f the m erchants' counting-houses are crow ded in Uttie ddfashioned “ entries,” or courts, such as o n e sees abou t th e Bankin'
L ondon. In and abou t these, and in th e prineipal streets m thc:
daytim e, is a great a ctivity, and ho m ely un pretending bustl& Tbe|
men have a business look, t o o ; and one sees v e ry few flatntfng'
dandies, as in D ublin. T h e shopkeepers d o n ot b ra g upon Ihdr
signboards, or keep “ em porium s," as elsew here,— A e ir places rf
business bein g for the m ost part h o m e ly ; though one m a y sec soroe
splendid shops, w hich are not to b e surpassed b y L on don . Tbc
docks and quays are busy with their craft and ship pin g, upon ^
beautiful borders o f the I^ u g h ;— the large red w arehouses strctcbiig
alon g the shores, with ships loading, or un loadin g, o r buUdvg
ham m ers clanging, pitch-pots flam ing and boiling, seam en
in the ships, or lolling lazily on the shore. T h e life a n d movemeot
o f a port here give the stranger plenty to adm iie and observe; And
nature has likew ise done everyth in g for the p lace— surroondiiig ik
Avith picturesque hills and w a ter;— for w hich latter I m ust confcsi!
Avas not very sorry to leave the town behind me, and its millsy and itt
meeting-houses, and its com m erce, and its theologian s, and ib
politicians.
( 293 )
C H A P T E R X X V III.
BELFAST TO THE CAUSEWAY.
T h e L o u gh o f Belfast has a reputation for b eau ty alm ost as great as
that o f the B ay o f D u b lin ; b ut though, on the d ay I left Belfast for
Lam e, the m orning w as fine, and the sky clear and blue above, an
envious m ist la y on the w ater, w hich hid all its beauties from th e
dozen o f passengers on the I ^ m e coach. A ll w e co u ld see w ere
ghostly-looking silhouettes o f ships glidin g here and there through the
clo u d s; and I am sure the co achm an ’s rem ark was quite correct, that
it was a p ity the d a y w as so m isty. I found m yself, before I w as
aware, entrapped into a theological controversy with tw o grave
gentlem en outside the co ach — another fog, w hich did n o t subside
much before w e reached Carrickfergus. T h e road from the U lster
:ap ital to that little tow n seem ed m eanw hile to be extrem ely li v e l y :
:ars a n d om nibuses passed th ick ly peopled. F o r som e m iles alon g
h e ro ad is a string o f handsom e country-houses, belon gin g to the
ic h citizen s o f the to iv n ; and w e passed b y n eat-looking churches
.nd ch ap els, factories and rows o f cottages clustered round them ,
ik e villa g e s o f o ld at the foot o f feudal castles. Furtherm ore it was
la rd to see, for th e m ist w hich la y on the w ater had envelop ed the
Q ountains too, and w e o n ly had a glim pse or tw o o f sm iling com fortb l e fields and gardens.
C arrickfergu s rejo ices in a real rom antic-looking castle, ju ttin g
>ravely into the sea, and fam ous as a backgroun d for a picture. I t
s o f use for little else now , lu c k ily ; n or has it been put to an y real
va rlik e purposes since the d a y w hen honest T h u ro t storm ed, took,
in d evacuated i t L e t an y rom ancer w ho is in w ant o f a hero peruse
h e seco n d volum e, o r it m ay b e the third, o f the “ A n n ual R e gister,”
v h ere the adventures o f that gallan t fellow are re la te d
H e was a
jen tlem an , a genius, and, to crow n all, a sm uggler. H e lived for
iome tim e in Irelan d, and in E ngland, in d isg u ise ; he had lovepassages an d rom antic a d v e n tu re s; he landed a b o d y o f his countryn e n on these shores, and died in the third volum e, after a battle
gallantly fought on both sides, b ut in w hich victo ry r e s t ^ with the:
( Jui(lc-l)Ook ; with the cxt'cj
whi(‘li is “ ])rivatc iiifonnaiii
w»)rk ])rcvi(Hisly niciuiiined.
jianion to i Ik * traveller in It
Penny Magazine,” whidi ma;
tains a mass of information rt
country. Willis’s work is am
lively author, and the engravi
any ever made.
Meanwhile, asking pardon
been made while the guard-co
while the landlady stands looki
little below the waist— while a <
castle has passed by, “ surroiii
uneasy-looking little subaltern—
town, ^'allowing and grinning in
tions for a halfpenny, has tolten
meanwhile, fresh horses are brot
behind the coach makes an une
horn kept to warn sleepy cam
into and exits from cities. As
round about wild but friendly
w'here a crowd of welDlressed \
farm-fumiture, and many more fi
fields and issuing from th<'
. COACHiBOX-SKETCHES.
29s
th«S2une authority says, b ut a m ost dirty and>iiarrow-streeted
b u ilr b n e .
Som e o f A e houses rem inded o n e o f the' south,
evolent fellow -passenger said that the w indow w as “ a con:e .” A n d h«re, after a drive o f n ineteen m iles upon a com fort>ach, w e w ere transferred w ith the m ail-bags to a com fortable
It m akes the jo u rn ey to B allycastle.
T h e re is no harm in
that there w as a v e ry p retty sm iling b uxom youn g lass for a
n g c o m p a n io n ; and som ehow , to a lo n e ly person, the landalw ays lo o ks prettier in such society. T h e “ Antrim coastw hich w e now , after a few miles, begin to follow , besides
>ne o f the m ost n oble and gallan t w orks o f art that is to b e
1 a n y coun try, is likew ise a route h igh ly picturesque and
i c ; the sea spreading Avide before the spectator’s eyes upon
le o f the route, the tall cliffs o f lim estone rising abrup tly a b ove
1 the other. T h e re are in the m ap o f C u rry’s G uide-book
in dicatin g castles and a b b e y ruins in the vicin ity o f G le n a r m ;
le little p lace lo o k ed so com fortable, as w e abrup tly cam e
t, round a rock, that I w as g la d to h ave an excuse for staying,
It an extrem e curiosity w ith regard to the a b b ey and the
e a b b e y o n ly exists in th e mnromantic shape o f a w a ll; the
how ever, far from b ein g a ruin, is an antique in the m ost
:te order— an o ld castle repaired so as to lo o k lik e new, an d
ed b y m o d em ivings, towers, gables, and terraces, so extrem ely
at the w hole form s a gran d and im posing-looking baron ial
tow erin g ab ove the little to w n w hich it seem s to p rotect, and
hich it is co n n ected b y a’ brid ge and a severe-lookin g arm ed
ind gate. In the tow n is a town-house, w ith a cam p an ile in
alian taste, and a sch o o l o r chap el op posite in the early
296
English; so tha the inhabitants can enjoy a considenUe aiditao*
tural variety.
A grave-looking church, with a beautiful steeple,
stands am id som e trees hard by a second handsome bridge andAe
here, too, was perched a poor little wandenDg
p it 2d.\ and proposing that night to play "Bonbastes Furioso, and the Comic Bally of Glenann in an Uproar.” I
heard the thum ping o f the drum in the evening; but, as at Rm
mdw ood, n ob o d y p atronized the poor players. At nine o’clock dierevtt
n ot a single taper lighted under their awning, and my heart (pcihi(i
it is too susceptible) bled for Fusbos.
T h e severe gate o f the castle was opened by a kind, good-oatncd
o ld porteress, instead o f a rough gallowglass with a battleaxe and
yello w shirt (more fitting guardian of so stem a postern), and theold
dam e insisted upon m y m akin g an application
the groundsof
the castle, w hich request was very kindly granted, and affindedi
delightful half-hour’s w alk. The grounds are beautiful, and excel*
len tly k e p t; the trees in their autumn livery of red, yellow, and
brow n, excep t som e stout ones that keep to their green sum
mer
clothes, and the laurels and their like, who wear pretty npichAe
sam e dress all the y ea r round. The birds were singing with At
m ost astonishing vehem en ce in the dark glistening shrubberies; but
the o n ly sound in the w alks was that of the rakes pulling togetfaet
the falling leaves. T h e re was of these walks one especially, flanked
towards the river b y a turreted wall covered with ivy, and having on
the one side a row o f lim e-trees that had turned quite yellow, lAiie
opposite them w as a green slope, and a quaint terrace-stair, and a
lo n g range o f fantastic gables, towers, and chinmeys;— there.wU| I
say, one o f these w alks which Mr. Cattermole would hit off wiA a
few strokes o f his gallan t pencil, and which I could fancy to be
frequen ted b y som e o f those long-trained, tender, gentMooking
youn g beauties whom M r. Stone loves to design. Here they conc^
talking o f lo ve in a tone that is between a sigh and a whisper, and
glid in g in rustling shot silks over the fallen leaves.
T h e re seem ed to b e a good deal of stir in the little port, where^
says the G uide-book, a co u p le of hundred vessels take in caigoea
ann ually o f the p roduce o f the district Stone and lime arc the chief
articles exported, o f w hich the cliffs for miles give anunfiulingsupplj;
and, as one travels the mountains at night, the kilns may be
ligh ted up in the lo n ely places, and flaring red in the darkness.
little q u a y ; and
theatre (gallery
AN TRIM COASTROAD.
297
I f the ro ad from L a m e to G len arm is beautiful, the coast route
from the latter p lace to C u sh en dall is still m ore s o ; and, e xcep t
peerless W estp o rt, I h ave seen n oth ing in Irelan d so picturesque a s
this n oble lin e o f coast scener}^ T h e new road, lu ck ily, is n ot y et
completed, an d the lo ve r o f natural beauties had b etter hasten to the
spot in tim e, ere, b y flattening and im p roving the road, and leadin g
it along the sea-shore, h a lf the m agnificent prospects are shut out,
now visible from alon g the m ountainous old road ; w hich, accordin g
t o the g o o d old fashion, gallan tly takes all the hills in its course,
disdaining to turn them. A t three m iles’ distance, n ear the village o f
C airlough, G len arm lo o k s m ore beautiful than w hen you are close
Upon i t ; and, as the car travels on to the stupendous G arron H e a d ,
th e traveller, lo o kin g b a ck , has a view o f the w hole line o f co ast
Southward as far as Is le M agee, w ith its b a ys and w hite villages, and
tall precipitous cliffs, green, w hite, and gray. E y es left, you m ay lo o k
svith w on der at the m ountains rising above, or presen tly at the p retty
park and grounds o f D rum nasole. H ere, near the w oods o f N app an,
w hich are dressed in ten thousand colours— ash-leaves turned yellow ,
lu t-tre e s red, birch-leaves brow n, lim e-leaves sp eckled o ver w ith b la ck
spots (m arks o f a disease w hich th ey w ill n ever g e t o ver)— stands a
school-house that lo o ks lik e a F ren ch chateau, h avin g p ro bably b een
I v illa in form er days, and discharges as w e pass a cluster o f fairla ir e d children , that begin running m adly dow n the hill, their fair
la ir stream ing behind them. D o w n the hill go es the car, m adly too,
in d y o u w on der and bless your stars that the horse does n ot fall, o r
m is h the children that are running before, or y o u that are sitting
Dehind. E v e ry n ow and then, at a trip o f the horse, a disguised
a d / s -m a id , w ith a canary-bird in her lap and a vast an xiety about
iier b e st bonn et in the band-box, begins to s c re a m : at w hich the cartx>ygrins, and rattles dow n the hill o n ly the quicker. T h e road, w hich
alm ost alw ays skirts th e hill-side, has been to m sheer through the
rock here and t h e r e : an im m ense w ork o f levellin g, shovelling,
p ickin g, blasting, filling, is goin g on alon g the w hole line. A s I w as
lo o k in g up a vast cliff, decorated w ith p atch es o f green here an d
there at its summit, and at its base, w here the sea had beaten un til
now , w ith long, thin, w aving grass, that I told a grocer, m y neighbour^
was lik e m erm aid’s hair (though he did n ot in the least co in cid e in
the sim ile)— as I w as lo o k in g up the hill, adm iring tw o goats that
w ere brow sing on a little p atch o f green, and tw o sheep perched y e t
298
agility in mutton)—as, I isy mce
phenomena, the grocor nudges me mi
says, “ Look on to this side-Hhafs Scotland yonP If ever dul book
reaches a secon d edition , a sonnet shall be inserted in this îuati
describin g the author’s feelings on his f ir s t view o f SooiuD l
M ean w hile, the S cotch m ountains remain undisturbed, lookiqg Utt
and solem n, far aw ay in the p lacid sea.
R o u n d in g G arron H e ad , w e come upon the inlet which is csHei
R e d B ay, the shores and sides o f whish are of red day, that has tabes
the p lace o f lim estone, and tow ards which, between two noUezangei
o f m ountains, stretches a lo n g green plain, forming, together widi tbe
hills that protect it and the sea diat washes it, one of the flMMt
beautiful landscapes o f this m ost beautiful countiy. A fiur wiiter,
w hom the G uide-book quotes, breaks out into stiams of adniar
tion in sp eakin g o f this d is tr ic t; calls it “ Switzerland in miniatiiR;*
celebrates its m ountains o f G len ariff and Luigethan, and laudiîa
terms o f equal adm iration, the rivers, waterfalls, and other natnd
beauties that lie w ithin the glen.
T h e w riter’s enthusiasm regarding this tract of countiy is qoile
w'arranted, n or can an y praise in admiration of it be too hig^; bat
a la s ! in ca llin g a p lace “ Switzerland in miniature,” do we describe
it ? In jo in in g togeth er cataracts, valleys, rushing streams, and btae
m ountains, with all the em phasis and picturesqueness of whidi l|pe
is capable, w e cann ot get near to a copy of Nature^s subte
co u n te n a n ce ; and the w riter can’t hope to describe such grand syfis
so as to m ake them visible to the fireside reader, but can only, to As
best o f his taste and experien ce, warn the future traveller when be
m ay lo o k out for ob jects to admire. I think this sentiment has bees
repeated a score o f tim es in this journal; but it comes upon one sfc
e ve ry new disp lay o f b e au ty and magnificence, such as here As
A lm igh ty in his boun ty has set before us; and every sndi soCBe
seem s to w arn one, that it is not made to talk about too
bit
to think o f and love, and b e grateful for.
R o u n d in g this beautiful bay and valley, we passed*by some cafcs
that p enetrate deep into the red rock, *a^ are inhabited—one \tf%
blacksm ith, w hose forge w as blazing in the daifc; one by'Catde; m i
one by an old w'oman that has sold whisky here for time>Mt of miiA
T h e road then passes under an arch cut in the rock hf die am
sp irited in dividual w ho has cleared away many of the diSooUesil
higher ( I had n ever seen such
m ore, I was lo o kin g at these
CUS/IESDALL.
299
t l i e route to Ci l enann, a n J l i esi Je a c o u i c a l hill, wh e r e for s o m e ti me
previous h ave been visible the ruins o f the “ ancient ould castle ” o f
R e d Bay. A t a distance, it looks very grand upon its h e ig h t ; b ut
On com in g close it has dw indled dow n to a m ere w all, and n ot a high
One.
H e n c e q u ick ly w e reached Cu sh en dall, w here the grocer’s
la m ily are on the look-out for h i m : the driver begin s to b lo w his
little bugle, and the disguised la d y ’s-maid begins to sm ooth her bonn et
a n d hair.
A t this p lace a go o d dinner o f fresh w hiting, broiled ba co n , and
s m a ll b e e r w as served up to m e for the sum o f eightpen ce, w hile the
l a d y ’s-m aid in question to o k her tea. “ T h is tow n is full o f P ap ists,”
s a id h e r ladyship, w ith an extrem ely gen teel a i r ; and, either in co n
s e q u e n c e o f this, or because she ate up one o f the fish, w hich she had
c le a r ly no right to, a disagreem ent arose b etw een us, and w e did n ot
e x c h a n g e another w ord for the rest o f the journey. T h e road led us
f o r fourteen m iles b y w ild m ountains, and across a fine aquedu ct to
B a l ly c a s t l e ; but it w as dark as w e left C u sh en dall, and it was difficult
t o s e e m ore in the gray evenin g b u t that the coun try w as savage and
lo n e ly , excep t w here the kiln s w ere ligh ted up here and there in the
h ills , an d a shining river m ight be seen w inding in the dark ravines.
N o t far from B allycastle lies a little o ld ruin, called the A b b e y o f
B o n a m a r g y : b y it the M a rg y river runs into the sea, upon w hich you
c o m e s u d d e n ly ; and on the shore are som e tall buildings and factories,
th a t lo o k e d as w ell in the m oonlight as if th ey had n ot been in ruins :
a n d h e n ce a fine avenue o f lim es leads to B allycastle. T h e y must
h a v e b e en plan ted at the time recorded in the G uide-book, w hen a
m in e w as discovered near the town, and the w orks and w arehouses
o n th e quay erected. A t present, the p lace has little trade, and halfa -d o ze n carts w ith apples, p otatoes, dried fish, and turf, seem to
co n ta in the com m erce o f the m a rk e t
T h e picturesque sort o f veh icle designed on the n ext page is said
to b e g o in g m uch out o f fashion in the country, the solid w heels givin g
p la c e to those com m on to the rest o f E urope. A fine and edifyin g
co n ve rsatio n to o k p lace b etw een the designer and the ow ner o f the
v e h icle . “ Stand still for a m inute, y o u and th e car, and I w ill g iv e
y o u t w o p e n c e ! ” “ W h at do you w ant to do w ith i t ? ” says the
la tter. “ T o draw it.” “ T o draw it I ” says he, w ith a w ild lo o k o f
surprise. “ A n d is it yotlll draw i t ? ” “ I m ean I w ant to tak e a
p ic tu r e o f i t :
you kn o w w hat a picture i s ! ”
“ N o, I
don ’t ”
300
“ H ere’s o n e,” says I, show ing him a b o o L “ O h , faith, sir," sayifee
carm an, draw ing b a ck rather akin ned, “ Vm no sch o lar " And he
con cluded by saying, “ JI / you buy the turf, or w ill you natf^ By
77
1
w hich straightfonvard question he show ed h im self to be a m l
practical man o f sense ; and, as he go t an un satisfactoiy reply to
this query, he forthwiili ga ve a lash to his p ony and dedined to
wait a m inute lo n g e r A s for the tw opence, he certain ly accepted
that handsom e sum, and put it into his p o cket, b ut w ith an air of
extrem e w on der at ilie transaction, and o f co n tem p t fo r th e giver;
w hich very lik e ly was p erfectly ju stifia b le
I h ave seen m en despised
in gen teel com panies with not h a lf so good a cause.
In resiiect to the fine arts, I anw bound to say that th e people in
the South and ^Vest show ed m uch m ore curiosity and interest with
regard to a sketch and its progress than has b een show n b y the
badauds o f the N orth ; the form er lo o k in g on b y d o zen s a n d ex cUua*
ing, “ T h a t’s F ra n k M ah o n y’s house ! ” or “ Look at Biddy Mnllins
and the child ! ” o r “ H e ’s tak in g o ff the chimney now 1" t t
the case m ay b e ; w hereas, sketching in the North, I have collected
n o such spectators, the p eo p le n o t tak in g the slightest notice of
the transaction.
T h e little town o f B allycastle do es not contain much to occupy
th e tra v e lle r: behind the church stands a ruined old mansion widi
round turrets, that m ust h a v e 'b e e n a stately tower in former daya
T h e tow n is m ore m odem , b u t alm ost as dismal as the tower. A
little street behind it slides o ff into a potato-field— the peacefid
barrier o f
the p la c e ;
an d h en ce I could see the tall rock o£
DALLYCASTLE.
301
B engore, w ith the sea b eyo n d it, and a pleasin g landscape stretching
tow ards i t
D r. H a m ilton ’s elegan t and learn ed b o o k has an aw ful picture o f
yo n d er head o f B e n g o r e ; an d hard b y it the G u id e-bo ok says is a
coal-m ine, w here M r. Barrow found a globular ston e ham m er, which^
he infers, w as used in the coal-m ine before w eapons o f iron w'ere
in vented . T h e form er w riter insinuates that the m ine m ust h ave
b een w orked m ore than a thousand years ago, “ before the turbulent
ch ao s o f events that succeeded the eighth century.” Shall I go and
see a coal-m ine that m ay h ave been w orked a thousand years since ?
W h y go see it ? says idleness.
T o b e able to say that I have seen i t
Sheridan ’s ad vice to his son here cam e into m y m ind ; * and I shall
reserve a description o f the m ine, and an antiquarian dissertation
regard in g it, for publication elsewhere.
B allycastle must not be left w ithout record in g the fact that one
o f the snuggest inns in the coun try is kep t b y the postm aster t h e r e ;
w ho has also a stable full o f go o d horses for travellers w ho tak e his
little inn on the w ay to the G ian t’s C ausew ay.
T h e road to the C ausew ay is b leak, Avild, and hilly. T h e cabins
a lo n g the road are scarcely better than those o f K erry, the inm ates
as ragged, and m ore fierce and dark-looking. I n ever Avas so pestered
b y ju v en ile beggars as in the dism al village o f B allin toy. A crow d
o f them rushed after the car, callin g for m oney in a fierce m anner, as
i f it w as their r ig h t : dogs as fierce as the children cam e yellin g after
th e v e h ic le ; and the faces w hich scow led out o f the b la ck cabins
w ere n ot a w hit m ore good-hum oured. W e passed b y one or tw o
m o re clum ps o f cabins, w ith their tu rf and corn-stacks lyin g togeth er
a t th e foot o f the h ills ; p laced there for the con ven ien ce o f the
children , doubtless, w ho can thus accom pan y the car either w ay, and
sh riek out their “ B o n n y gantlem an, g i’e us a ha’p ’ny.” A co u p le o f
chu rch es, one w ith a pair o f its pinn acles bloAvn off, stood in the
dism al open country, and a gentlem an’s house here and t h e r e :
th e re were no trees about them , but a brow n grass round about— hills
risin g and falling in front, and the sea beyo n d . T h e occasional view
o f th e co ast was n o b le ; Avild B engore tow ering eastAvards as w e w en t
a l o n g ; R a gh ery Island before us, in the steep rocks and caves o f
•
I want to go into a coal-mine,” says Tom Sheridan, ** in order to say I
have been there.” “ Well, then, say so,” replied the admirable father.
TH E IRISH SK E TC H BO O K
302
.
w hich B ruce to o k shelter w hen driven from y o n d e r S U d tlk A i^
that one sees stretching blu e in th e north-e&sL
*:
I think this w ild glo o m y tract through w h ich o n e passes h a
go o d prelude for w hat is to b e th e great sight o f th e d a y , smd got
m y m ind to a p roper state o f aw e b y th e tim e w e were near tkc
jo u rn ey’s end.
T u rn in g aw ay shorew aids b y th e fine house of
S ir Francis M acnagh ten , I w en t tow ards a lo n e h a o d so u ie
stands d o s e to the C ausew ay. T h e lan dlo rd a t B a ltyca stle had Irat
m e H am ilton ’s b o o k to read on the r o a d ; b u t I had n o t time then
to read m ore than h a lf a dozen p ages o f iL T h e y described how th<
author, a cleigym an distinguished as a m an of scien ce, had bcto
thrust out o f a friend’s bouse b y th e frightened servan ts o n e
night, and butchered b y som e W h ite b o y s w ho w ere w aid iig
and ca lled for his b lo o d
I had b e en to ld a t B e l& s t that th e tt raa
a corpse in the i n n ; was it there n o w ? I t had d riven oflt the car
b o y said, “ in a handsom e hearse and four to D u b lin th e whole
It Avas gone, but I thought the house lo o k e d a s i f th e ghost wbs
there.
See, yo n d er are the b la ck rocks stretch ing to P o itru a h : hov
1
1
leaden and gray the sea lo o k s ho w g r a y a n d lead en th e s k y
Yoa
hear the w aters roarin g everm ore, as th e y h ave d o n e u m the
beginning o f the Avorld. T h e car drives u p w ith a dtsm al griading
noise o f the wheels to th e b ig lo n e house :■there^s n o sinokie in the
c h im n e y s ; the doors are lo c k e d
T h r e e savngedooking m en nrih
after the c a r : are th ey the m en w h o to o k out M r. HatDlhiOdir-^tOdk
Irim out and butchered him in th e m o o n lig h t? I s cfetfboAyi 1
w onder, d ead in that b ig ho u se ? W ill th ey le t us in b e f i ^ thos?
men are up ?
O u t com es a p retty sm iling girij w ith a cu risq p f just as
the savages are at the car, a n d y o u are ushered in to a Vttfy com
fortable r o o m ; and th e men turn o u t to b e gu ides.
thank
heaven it’s no w orse I
I had fifteen pounds still I e ft|
desperate, have no doubt should fight like a lioiu
^
'
when
I
303
)
C H A P T E R X X IX .
THE
T
he
g i a n t ’s c a u s e w a y —
COLERAINE— PORTRUSH.
traveller n o sooner issues from the inn b y a b a c k door, w hich
h e is inform ed w ill lead him straight to the Causew ay, than the gu ides
p o u n c e upon him , w ith a dozen rough boatm en w ho are likew ise
ly in g in w a it ; and a crew o f shrill beggar-boys, w ith b o x es o f spars,
re a d y to tear him and each other to p ieces seem ingly, yell and baw l
in cessan tly round him. “ I ’m the gu ide M iss H e n ry recom m ends,”
sh outs one.
“ I ’m M r. M a cd o n a ld ’s gu id e,” pushes in another.
“ T h is w ay,” roars a third, and drags his prey dow n a p re c ip ic e ; the
re s t o f them clam bering and quarrelling after. I h ad no frie n d s : I
w a s p erfectly helpless.
I w anted to w alk dow n to the shore b y m yself,
b u t th e y w ould n o t let m e, and I had n oth ing for it but to yield
m y s e lf into the hands ,o f the gu id e w ho had seized m e, w ho hurried
m e d o w n the steep to a little w ild bay, flan ked on each side b y
ru g g ed cliffs an d rocks, against w hich the w aters cam e tum bling,
fro th in g, and roaring furiously.
U p o n som e o f these b la ck rocks
tw o o r three boats w ere ly in g : four m en seized a boat, pushed it
sh o u tin g into the w ater, and ravished m e into i t
W e had slid
b e tw e e n tw o rocks, w here the chan nel cam e g u ig lin g i n : w e w ere
u p o n e sw elling w ave that cam e in a huge advan cin g b o d y ten feet
a b o v e us, and w ere p lun ging m a d ly dow n another, (the descen t
ca u se s a sensation in the low er regions o f the stom ach w hich it is
n o t a t all necessary here to describe,) before I had leisure to ask
m y s e lf w hy the d eu ce I was in that boat, w ith four rowers hurrooin g
a n d b o u n i n g m adly from one huge liquid m ountain to another—
fo u r rowers w hom I was boun d to pay.
I say, the query cam e
q u a lm ish ly across m e w h y the d evil I w as there, and w hy not w alkin g
c a lm ly on the shore.
T h e gu id e b egan pouring his professional jargo n into m y ears.
“ E v e r y on e o f them b ays,” says he, “ has a nam e (take m y 'p lace,
a n d th e spray w on ’t co m e o ve r y o u ) : that is P o rt N offer, and the
n ex t, P o r t n a G a n g e ; them ro ck s is the Stookaw n s (for every ro ck
3«4
7 V / / ; lE lS II SK E TCH BOOK.
has its name as well as every b a y ) ; and yo n d er— giv e w ay, niybo)*s,
— luirray, w e ’re over it n o w : lias it w et you m uch, s ir ? — that’s the
little ( a v e : it goes five hundred feet under ground, and the boats
goes intn it easy o f a c.ilni da y .”
“
it a fine day or a nnigh one n o w ? ” said I ; the internal dbtiirb.mee L'ling on v. ith mure severity than ever.
■
...
■
“ It’s lietwixt and between ; or, I m ay say, neither one nor the
other. Sit iij), sir. Look at the entrance o f the cave. D o n ’t be
afraid, sir: never has an acciden t happened in any one o f th e s e boats,
and the most delicate ladies has rode in them on rougher days
than this. Now, Ix.iys, jaill to the big cave. T h a t, sir, is six hundred
and si.xty yards in length, though som e say it goes for m iles inland.
SEEING TH E CAUSEW AY.
305
w here the p eo p le sleeping in their houses hear the w aters roaring
un der them .”
T h e w ater was tossing and tum bling into the m outh o f the little
cave. I lo o ked ,— for the gu id e w ould n ot let m e alon e till I did,—
an d saw w hat m ight b e e x p e c te d : a b la ck hole o f som e forty feet
h igh, into w hich it w as no m ore p ossible to see than in to a m ill
stone. “ F o r heaven ’s sake, sir,” says I, “ if yo u ’ve no particular
w ish to see the m outh o f the b ig cave, p ut about and let us see the
C a u sew a y and g e t ashore.” T h is was done, the gu ide m eanw hile
tellin g som e story .of a ship o f the Spanish A rm ad a having fired her
guns at tw o p eaks o f ro ck , then visible, w h ich the crew m istook for
chim ney-pots— ^what benigh ted fools these Spanish A rm adillo es m ust
h a ve been : it is easier to see a ro ck than a ch im n ey-p o t; it is easy
to kn o w that chim ney-pots do n ot grow on ro ck s.— “ B ut w here, if you
please, is the C au sew ay ? ”
“ T h a t’s the C au sew ay befo re yo u ,” says the guide.
“ W h ic h ? ”
“ T h a t pier w hich yo u see ju ttin g out into the b ay, right a-head.”
“ M o n D i e u ! and h ave I travelled a hundred an d fifty m iles to
that ? ”
I declare, upon m y con scien ce, the b a ig e m oored at H ungerford
m arket is a 'm o r e m ajestic o b ject, and seem s to o ccu p y as m uch
space. A s for tellin g a m an that the C au sew ay is m erely a part o f
see
the s ig h t; that he is there for the purpose o f exam ining the sur
rou n din g s c e n e ry ; that if h e lo o ks to the w estw ard h e w ill see
P ortrush and D o n eg al H e a d before h im ; that the cliffs im m ediately
in his front are green in som e places, b la ck in others, interspersed
w ith blo tch es o f brow n and streaks o f v e rd u re ;— w hat is all this to a
lo n e ly in dividual ly in g sick in a b o at, b etw een tw o im m ense w aves
th at o n ly g iv e him m om entary glim pses o f the land in question, to
show that it is frightfully near, and yet you are an hour from it ? T h e y
w on ’t let yo u g o aw ay— that cursed gu ide wi/t tell o u t his stock o f
leg en d s and stories. T h e boatm en insist upon yo u r lo o k in g at boxes
o f “ specim ens,” w hich yo u m ust b u y o f t h e m ; th e y laugh as you
gro w p aler and p a le r; th ey offer yo u m ore and m ore “ s p e cim e n s ; ”
e ven th e dirty lad w ho pulls num ber three, and is n ot allow ed b y
his com rades to speak, puts in his oar, and hands you o ver a
p iece o f Irish diam ond (it lo o ks like half-sucked alicom payne),
and scorn s you.
“ H u rray, lads, n ow for it, giv e w a y ! ”
20
how
3o6
oars
rowlocks, as the boot goes up an
one o f those cursed
is
as shore !
pulled me enough abou^ and sold me sfl
the b o xes o f specim ens, I w as perm itted to land a t the spot whenoe
w'e set out, and w hen ce, though we had been row ing fo r an hon;
w e had n ever been a b ove five hundred ]rards d is ta n t Let i l
C o ck n e y s take w arning from t h is ; le t the solitary one caMfjtA isnqg
from the b a ck door, o f the hotel, shout at once to the boatmen to be
go n e— that he w ill h ave none o f them. L e t him , a t any nte^gb
first dow n to the w ater to determine whether it be sm oodi
to allow him to tak e an y decent pleasure by rid in g on its \
F o r after all, it m ust b e rem em ber^ that it is pleasure we oomefar
— that w e are not ob/iged to take those boats.— W e ll, w ell 1 I p iii'
ten shillings for mine, and ten minutes before w ould cheerfully b m
paid five pounds to be allo w ed to qu it i t : it was no hard bargahi a te
a l l A s for the boxes o f spar and specimens, I at ance^ being on to n
firma, broke m y prom ise, and said 1 w ould see them a ll •
It is w rong to swear, I k n o w ; but sometimes it relieves one iu mndi!
T h e first act on shore was to make a sacrifice to SancriMiwi
T e llu s ; offering up to her a neat and becom ing T a glion i coat, b o q ^
for a guinea in C o v en t G ard en only three m onths back. I sp m kd l
on m y b a ck on the sm oothest o f rocks that is, and tore the dbom la ‘
p ie c e s : the guide p icked m e u p ; the boatmen did n o t sdr, fo r A qr
had had their w ill o f m e ; the guide alone picked me up, I say, aad
bade m e follow him. W e went across a boggy ground in one of die
little bays, round w hich rise the green walls o f the c liff,
on either side b y a b la ck crag, and the lin e o f the slio ie wadied by
the p olu ph loisboiotic, nay, the poluphloisboiotatotic sea. T w o beggtol'
stepped o ver the b o g after us how ling fo r m o n ^, and eadi hoidqg
up a cursed b o x o f specim ens. N o oaths, threats, entreaties, worii^
d rive these verm in a w a y ; for some tim e the wh(de soeue had besrt
spoilt b y the incessant and abom inable jaig on o f the ii^ the bpatwato
an d the guides. I w as o b liged to give them money to b e k ft’fo*
quiet, and if, as no doubt w ill be the cose, the Gianfs Canseiriy dwl;
b e a still greater resort o f travellers than ever, the county nmk pt
p olicem en on the rocks to keep the b ^g a rs away, or ttog t h o i i a
the
d o hurtle in the
m ountain, and then dow n in to
w here there
n o rest
on
A t last, after th ey had
the w ater w hen they appear.
A n d now,
by fo rce
of
. . . •
money, having got rid o f the aeaaud Ini.
THE G IA N T S CAUSE WAV.
307
b e g g a rs , yo u are a t lib erty to exam ine at your leisure the w onders o f the
p la c e . T h e re is n ot the least n eed for a gu ide to attend the stranger,
u n le s s the latter h ave a m ind to listen to a p arcel o f legends, w hich
m a y b e w ell from the m outh o f a w ild sim ple peasant w ho believes in
h is tales, b ut are odious from a dullard w ho narrates them at the
r a t e o f sixp en ce a lie. F e e him and the other beggars, and a t last
y o u are left tranquil to lo o k at the strange scen e w ith your ow n eyes,
a n d e n jo y yo u r ow n thoughts at leisure.
T h a t is, if the thoughts aw aken ed b y such a scene m ay b e ca lled
e n jo y m e n t ; but for me, I confess, they are too near akin to fear to
b e p le a s a n t; and I don ’t kn o w that I w ould desire to change that
sen satio n o f aw e and terror w hich the hour’s w alk occasion ed , for a
g re a te r fam iliarity w ith this w ild, sad, lo n ely p lace. T h e solitude is
aw fu l. I can ’t understand how those chattering guides dare to lift up
th e ir v o ice s here, and cry for m oney.
I t lo o k s lik e the b egin n in g o f the w orld, s o m e h o w : the sea looks
o ld e r than in other places, the hills and rocks strange, and form ed
differen tly from other ro ck s and hills— as those vast dubious m onsters
w ere form ed w ho possessed the earth before m an. T h e hill-tops are
sh a ttered in to a thousand cragged fantastical s h a p e s ; the w ater com es
s w e llin g into scores o f little strange creeks, or goes o ff w ith a leap,
ro a rin g into those m ysterious caves yonder, w hich penetrate w ho
kn o w s how far into our com m on w orld ? T h e savage rock-sides are
p ain ted o f a hundred colours. D o e s the sun ever shine here ? W h en
th e w orld w as m oulded and fashioned out o f form less chaos, this
m u st h ave been the bit oi'cr— a rem nant o f chaos I T h in k o f t h a t !
— it is a tailor’s sim ile. W e ll, I am a C o c k n e y : I wish I were in
P a ll M a l l ! Y o n d e r is a k e lp -b u m e r: a lurid sm oke from his burning
k e lp rises up to the leaden sky, and he lo o ks as n aked and fierce as
C a in . B ubblin g up out o f the rocks at the v e ry brim o f the sea rises
a little crystal spring : ho w com es it there ? and there is an old g ray
h a g besid e, who has b een there for hundreds an d hundreds o f years^
a n d there sits and sells w h isky at the extrem ity o f creation ! H o w
d o y o u dare to sell w h isky there, old w om an ? D id you serve old
Saturn w ith a glass w hen he la y alon g the C ausew ay here ? In reply,
sh e says, she has no chan ge for a s h illin g : she never has j b ut her
w h isk y is good.
T h is is n ot a description o f the G ian t’s C au sew ay (as som e clever
c ritic w ill rem ark), b ut o f a L o n d o n er A c r e , w ho is b y n o m eans so
3o8
th e
IRISH SK ETCH BOOK.
natural curiosity in question. T h ita n ^
a word more to say. “ 1^” s ^s he;
lyin g before us— if you cannot mte
that the num ber o f basaltic piDui
computed at about fo rty tiio a n d ;
surface presenting the appearance of a
stones— ^that ca d i |^ la r is fbraed
end o f the one being aocm strif
and the length o f the jcn n ti n y — ^that although the p illa rs are polj^
gon al, there is but one o f three sides in the whole fo rty then— d
(think o f t h a t !), but three o f nine sides, and tiia t it m ay be u S ij
com puted that ninety-nine out o f o ne hundred pillars have ^tb e r ilfc;
six, or seven sides ;— if you cann ot state something useful, you had
m uch better, sir, retire and g e t yo u r dinner.”
N e ve r was summons more gladly obeyed. The dinner must he
ready b y this tim e ; so, rem ain you, and loo k on at the a w fiil scene;
and co p y it down in w ords if you can. I f at the end o f the tria l yon
are dissatisfied with your skill as a painter, and fin d tha t the HggBA
o f your w ords cannot render the hues and vastness o f th a t tremen
dous sw elling sea — o f those lean solitaiy crags standing rig id aloqg die
shore, where they have been watching the ocean ever since it W
m ade — o f those gray towers o f Dunluce standing upon a leaden lo c ^
and lo o kin g as if som e old, old princess, o f old, old fiu iy tim es; were
dragon-guarded within — o f yo n flat stretches o f sand where die
Sco tch and Irish merm aids hold conference— come away too; and
prate no m ore about the scene! There is that in nature, dov
Jenkins, w hich passes even our powers. W e can feel the beantjef
a m agnificent landscape, p erh a p s: but we can describe a feg of
m utton and turnips better. C o m e, then, this scene is fo r ou r bettan
to depict. I f M r. T en n yso n w ere to come hither for a m ondi, and
b rood over the place, he m ight, in some o f those lo fty heroic fines
w hich the author o f the “ M orte d’A rth u r” knows h o w to p ile
co n vey to the reader a sense o f this gigantic desolate soene. Whatl
you, too, are a p oet ? W ell, then, Jenkins, stay I but bdieve me; you
had best take m y advice, and come o ff
interesting an o b ject as the
;
hint is su fficien t I have n ot
“ you cann ot describe the scen e
from your personal observation
com posing the C ausew ay has been
w hich vary in diam eter, their
tesselated pavem ent o f p olygonal
o f several distinct join ts, the co n v e x
fitted in the co n cave o f the n ext,
ing from five feet to four inches
appearance w ith the
of
does the reader th in k a ladj dm iU
T h e w orthy lan d lad y m ade her
bow s and an ap o lo gy,— for w hat
TH E C J E S E i r A V HOTEL,
309
a p o l o g i z e in the mo s t l unel y rude sp-ot in the worl d ?— b e c a u s e a plain
servant-woman was about lo bring in the dinner, the waiter being
absent on leave at Coleraine ! O heaven and earth ! where will the
genteel end ? I replied philosophically that I did not care twopence
for the plainness or beauty of the waiter, but that it was the dinner I
looked to, the frying whereof made a great noise in the huge lonely
house; and it must be said, that though the lady was plain, the
repast was exceedingly good. “ I have expended my little all,” says
the landlady, stepping in with a speech after dinner, “ in the building
o f this establishment; and though to a man its profits may appear
small, to such a being as I am it will bring, I trust, a sufficient return;”
and on my asking her why she took the place, she replied that she
had always, from her earliest youth, a fancy to dwell in that spot, and
had accordingly realized her wish by building this hotel— this mauso
leum. In spite of the bright fire, and the good dinner, and the good
wine, it was impossible to feel comfortable in the place; and when
the car wheels were heard, I jumped up Avith joy to take my departure
and forget the aAvful lonely shore, and that wild, dismal, genteel inn.
A ride over a wide gusty country, in a gray, misty, half-moonlight,
the loss of a Avheel at Bushmills, and the escape from a tumble, were
the delightful varieties after the late aAvful occurrences. “ Such a
being ” as I am, would die of loneliness in that hotel; and so let all
brother Cockneys be Avamed.
Some time before we came to it, AA'e saAv the long line of mist that
lay above the Bann, and coming through a dirty suburb of low cottages,
passed doAvn a broad street with gas and lamps in it (thank heaven,
there are people once more !), and at length drove up in state, across
a gas-pipe, in a market-place, before an hotel in the town of Cole
raine, famous for linen and for Beautiful Kitty, Avho must be old and
ugly now, for it’s a good five-and-thirty years since she broke her
pitcher, according to Mr. Moore’s account of her. The scene as we
entered the Diamond Ai'as rather a lively one— a score of little stalls
were brilliant with lights ;• the people Avere thronging in the place
making tlieir Saturday bargains ; the tOAvn clock began to toll nine;
and hark ! faithful to a minute, the horn of the Derry mail w'as heard
tootooing, and four commercial gentlemen, Avith Scotch accents, rushed
into the hotel at the same time Avith myself.
Among the beauties of Coleraine may be mentioned the price
o f beef, which a gentleman told me may be had for fourpence a
ui II va ca n cy ii
SO truly liberal that they would el
creed, who w ould sim ply bring
votes, d'herc are 220 voters, it a
necessary to “ a r g u e ” w ith more
conviction; but as parties are pr
the quinquagint, of course, carry
Well, this is all discussed calmly
jolly landlord and a professional
information. So, heaven bless us,
to be known even here. Gentility
the Giant’s Causeway, where she a
look: and, lo 1 here is bribery, as
places— hundreds and hundreds o;
and Pall Mall. I wonder, in that
and lonely, whether civilization is 1
— ^whether they bribe and arc gent
yesterday, I think I would have fled
The town of Coleraine, with a ni:
to it, lies picturesquely grouped on
of A e little city was echoing wiA ps
the Sunday morning. The piety o:
some of the inns even will not re<
A is is written in an hotel, of which
Testament, containing an injunctior
consider thic^'^-''^
PURITANISM.
311
elieve, to b e found in th e chu rch o f R o m e ; and w oe betide the
T anger w h o com es to settle in these parts, i f his “ seriousness ” b e
ot satisfactory to the heads (w ith false fronts .to m ost o f them ) o f
le congregations.
L o o k at that little snug harbour o f P o r tru s h ! a h ideous new
astle stan din g on a ro ck p rotects it on one side, a snug row o f
entlem en’s cottages curves round the shore facin g northw ard, a
ath-house, an hotel, m ore sm art houses, face the b each w estw ard,
efend ed b y another m ound o f rocks. In the centre o f the little
)wn stands a new-built c h u r c h ; and the w hole p lace has an air o f
Dmfort and neatness w hich is seldom seen in Irelan d. O n e w ould
J icy that all the tenants o f these p retty snug habitations, sheltered
i this n oo k far aw ay from the w orld, h ave n oth ing to do but to
e hap py, and spend their little com fortable m eans in snug little
ospitalities am ong one another, an d kin d little charities am ong the
oor.
W h at does a m an in a ctive life ask for m ore than to retire
) such a com p etence, to such a snug n o o k o f the w o r ld ; and
lere repose w ith a stock o f h ealthy children round the fireside, a
ien d w ithin call, and the m eans o f d ecen t hospitality w herew ith to
eat him ?
L e t an y one m editating this pleasant sort o f retreat, and charm ed
ith the lo o k o f this or that p lace as p ecu liarly suited to his purpose,
k e a sp ecial care to understand his neighbourhood first, before he
)m m it him self, b y lease-signing or house-buying. I t is n ot sufficient
lat y o u should b e honest, kind-hearted, hospitable, o f g o o d fam ily
-w hat are yo u r opinions upon religious subjects ?
A re th ey such
; a gree w ith the notions o f o ld L a d y T h is , or M rs. T h a t, w ho are
e patronesses o f the village ? I f not, w oe betid e y o u ! you w ill
t shunned b y the rest o f the society, thw arted in your attem pts to
> go o d , w hispered against o ve r evan gelical b o h ea an d serious
uffins.
L a d y T h is w ill inform every n ew arrival that you are a
p ro bate, and lost, and M rs. T h a t w ill consign yo u and your
lughters, and yo u r w ife (a w orthy w om an, but, alas ! im ited to that
xl w orld ly m an !) to dam nation. T h e clergym an w ho partakes o f
e m uffins and b o h ea before m entioned, w ill very p ossibly p reach
rm on s against yo u from the p u lp it ; this w as n ot don e at Portewart to m y kn ow ledge, but I h ave had the pleasure o f sitting
id e r a m inister in Irelan d w ho insulted the very patron w ho g a v e
m his livin g, discoursing upon the sinfulness o f partridge-shooting.
312
and threatening hell-fire as the last “ meet” for foat-haxiten; anti
the squire, on e o f the best an d most charitable resident iMidlorisii
Irelan d, was abso lu tely driven out of the chuzch where his ftthen
had w orshipped for hundreds o f year% by the insults of this hamStf
evangelical inquisitor.
So m uch as this I did not hear at Portstewart; but I w u toid
that at yo n d er neat-looking bath-house a dying woman was deniedS
bath on a Sunday. B y a clause of the lease by which the batb-oeiMr
rents his establishm ent, he is forbidden to give baths to any one oa
the Sunday. T h e landlord of the inn, forsooth, dints his gates oa
the sam e day, and his cqp scien ce on week days will not allowUn
to supply his guests with w hisky or ardent spirits. I was tdd hf my
friend, that because he refused to subscribe for some hncy charity,
he received a letter to state that “ he spent more in ono dinner dm
in charity in the course o f the year.” My worthy friend did not cut
to contradict the statem ent, as why should a man dejgn to meddle
w ith such a lie ?
B ut think
how all the fishes, and all the pieces of
m eat, and all the p eop le w ho went in and out of his snug cottage hf
the sea-side must h ave been watched by the serious round aboutI
T h e sea is not m ore constant roaring there, than scandal is whiipering. H o w hap p y I felt, while hearing these histories (denmre
heads in crim ped caps p eepin g over the blinds at us as we walked
Cockney, and don’t know the name
to me I
I have heard various stories, of course fiom persons of vaiioni
w ays o f thinking, charging their opponents with hypocriqr, and
provin g the charge b y statements clearly showing that the priest^
th e preachers, or the professing religionists in question, belied tbeir
professions w ofully b y their practice. But in matters of idigioii,
h yp ocrisy is so awful a charge to make against a man, that I think it
is alm ost unfair to m ention even the cases in which it is provcOi
and w hich,— as, pray G o d , they are but exceptional,—a penOQ
should be very careful o f mentioning, lest they be considered to
ap p ly generally,
Tartuffe has been always a disgusting play to nm
to see, in spite o f its sense and its wit; and so, instead of pnmda§f
here or elsewhere, a few stories of the Tartuffe kind which I hare
heard in Irelan d, the best way will be to tiy and foxget them. It is
a n awful thing to say o f any man walking under God's sun Iqr.dm
ride o f us, “ Y o u are a hypocrite, lying as you use the Most S a a ^
on the beach), to think I am a
o f the m an w ho lives n ext door
PORTRUSH CHURCH
Tame, kn o w in g that yo u lie w hile you use it.”
3*3
L e t it b e the
riv ile g e o f an y sect that is so m inded, to im agine that there is
erd itio n in store for all the rest o f G o d ’s creatures w ho d o n ot
lin k w ith th e m : b u t the easy coun tercharge o f hyp ocrisy, w h ich
l e w orld has b e en in the habit o f m akin g in its turn, is surely ju st
s fatal and bigo ted an accusation as an y that the sects m ake
gain st tlie w orld.
W h at has this disquisition to do Apropos o f a w alk on the b each
t P ortstew art ? W h y, it m ay b e m ade here as w ell as in other parts
if Irela n d , o r elsew here as w ell, perhaps, as here.
riest-ridden o f countries ;
I t is the m ost
C a th o lic clergym en lord it o ver their
agged flocks, as Protestan t preachers, la y and clerical, o ver their
nore gen teel co-religionists. B oun d to in culcate p ea ce and good-w ill,
heir w h o le life is one o f enm ity and distrust.
W a lk in g aw ay from the little b a y and the disquisition w hich has
om ehow been raging there, w e w en t across som e w ild dreary highm d s to the n eighbouring little town o f Portrush, w here is a n eat
own an d houses, and a harbour, and a new church too, so like the
ist-nam ed p lace that I thought for a m om ent w e had only m ade a
ound, and w ere b a ck again at Portstew art. Som e gentlem en o f the
lace, and m y guide, w ho had a n eigh b o u rly likin g for it, show ed m e
be n ew church, and seem ed to b e w ell pleased with the e d ific e ; w hich
>, in d eed , a neat and co n ven ien t one, o f a rather irregular G oth ic,
"he b est thing about the church, I think, w as the history o f it.
The
Id chu rch had lain som e m iles off, in the m ost in conven ien t part o f
be parish, w hereupon the clergym an and som e o f the gen try had
lis e d a subscription in order to build the present church. T h e exenses had exceed ed the estim ates, or the subscriptions had fallen short
f the sums n e c e s s a ry ; and the church, in con sequence, was op en ed
rith a d ebt on it, w hich the rector and two m ore o f the gen try had
ik e n on their shoulders. T h e livin g is a sm all one, the other ttvô
entlem en go in g bail for the edifice not so rich as to think light o f the
•ayment o f a couple o f hundred pounds beyo n d their p revious subcriptions— the lists are therefore still open ; and the clergym an
xpressed him self p erfectly satisfied eith er that he w ou ld be reimursed o n e day or other, or that h e w ould b e able to m ake out the
aym en t o f the m on ey for w hich he stood engaged. M o st c f the
wOman C a th o lic churches that I h ave seen through the country have
een b u ilt in this w ay,— begun w hen m on ey enough w as lev ied for
314
TH E IRISH SK E TCH BOOK.
con structing the foundation, elevated by degrees as finedi s^ttpeiees
ca m e in, and finished —b y th e way, I d o n 't thiidt I have seen one
fin is h e d ; b u t there is som ething n oble in the spirit ( h o w m r cettsin
econom ists m ay cavil a t it) that lead s p eo p le to co m m e o ce these
p ious undertakings w ith the firm trust thsX “ H e a v e n w ill provide.^
Eastw ard from Fortrush, w e cam e upon a b eau tifu l l e r d m l
w hich leads to the W h ite R o c k s, a fam ous p lace o f resort fiir the Ct^
quenters o f the n eigh bourin g w a te r in g -p la c ^
H e r e are caife%and
for a con siderable distance a view o f the w ild and g lo o m y Antciil coast
as far as Bengore. M idw ay, ju ttin g in to tKe sea, (and I was gfed it war
so far off,) was the C a u sew a y; an d nearer, th e g ray tow ers of Dwnluce
L o o k in g north, were the blu e S co tch hills and th e tueighbounng
R a gh ery Island.
N earer Fortrush w ere tw o ro ck y islands^ called the
Skerries, o f w hich a sportsm an o f our p arty vau n ted th e capahOUci
regretting that m y stay was n ot longer, so t l^ t I m igh t lan d and shoot
a few ducks there. T h is u n lu ck y lateness o f the season stmck
also as a m ost afflicting circum stance. H e said a lso that fish were
caught o ff the island— not fish g o o d to eat, b ut v e iy stro n g at pulling,
eager o f biting, and affording a great d eal o f s p o r t A n d s o we
im tl
o u r b a ck s once m ore upon th e G ia n ts C ausew ay, a n d th e gzim ooasi
■ n.
on w hich it lie s ; an d a s m y taste in life lead s me to preftc looldng »t
th e sm iling fresh face o f a y o u n g cheerful b e a u ^ , rather than at
the fierce coun ten an ce and h ig h features o f a d ish evelled Meg
M errilies, I m ust say again that I w as g la d to turn m y b a ck oo
that severe part o f the A n trim coast, a n d
m f steps tow ards Deny-
(
3 «S
)
CH A PTE R XXX.
PEG
OF
LIMAVADDY.
Be t w e e n C o lerain e an d D e n y there is a d a ily car (besides one o r
w o o ccasio n al queer-looking coaches), and I had this veh icle, w ith an
n te llig e n t driver, and a horse with a hideous raw on his shoulder,
m tirely to m y self for the five-and-tw'enty m iles o f oiir journey.
The
rabins o f C olerain e are not parted w ith in a hurry, and w e crossed the
l)ridge, and w en t up and dow n the hills o f one o f the suburban streets,
he B a n n flow ing p icturesquely to our left; a large C a th o lic chapel, the
[>efore-mentioned cabins, and farther on, som e neat-looking houses
m d plantations, to our rig h t T h e n w e began ascen ding w ide lo n ely
iills, p o ols o f b o g shining here and there am ongst them , w ith birds,
Doth b la c k and w hite, both geese and crows, on the h u n t Som e o f
Jie stu b b le w as already p lou ghed up, but b y the side o f m ost cottages
jrou saw a b la ck potato-field that it was tim e to d ig now , for the
vea th er w as chan gin g and the Avinds begin n in g to roar. W o o d s,
whenever w e passed them , were flinging round eddies o f mustard:oloured le a v e s ; the w hite trunks o f lim e and ash trees beginn in g to
o o k v e ry bare.
T h e n w e stopped to giv e the raw -backed horse w a te r ; then Ave
T otted dow n a hill w ith a n oble b lea k p rospect o f L o u gh F o y le and
b e surrounding m ountains before us, until w e reached the town o f
N ew tow n L im avad d y, w here the raw -backed horse w as exch an ged
“o r another n ot m uch m ore agreeable in his appearance, though, lik e
tiis com rade, n ot slow on the road.
N ew to w n L im av ad d y is the third tOAvn in the co u n ty o f
ierry. I t com prises three w ell-built streets, the others are
it is, how ever, resp ectab ly in habited: all this m ay b e true, as
informed G uide-book avers, but I am boun d to say that I w as
Df som ethin g else as w e d rove through the town, h avin g fallen
in lo v e during the ten m inutes o f our stay.
L on don inferior ;
the w ellthin kin g
eternally
Y e s , P e g g y o f L im av ad d y, i f Barrow and In glis have go n e to
C on nem ara to fall in lo ve w ith the M isses F ly n n , le t us b e allow ed to
M>me to U lste r and offer a tribute o f praise a t yo u r feet— a t y o u r
3 i6
THE IRISH SK ETCH BOO K
stockingless feet, O M a rg a r e t! D o you rem em ber Uie O ctober
(’twas the first day o f the hard Aveather), w hen the w ay-w orn travc
entered your inn ?
But the circum stances o f this p assio n had b0
b e chronicled in deathless
verse.
PEG O F L IM A V A D D Y .
R id in g from C o le ra in e
(F a m e d fo r lo v e ly K it ty ) ,
C am e a C o ck n ey bound
U n to D e r r y c ity ;
M o u n ta in s stretch ’d aroun d .
G lo o m y w a s th e ir tin tin g.
A n d th e h o rse’s h o ofs
M a d e a d ism al d i n t i n g ;
W in d u p on th e h ea th
H o w lin g w a s an d p ip in g .
O n th e h eath an d b o g,
B la c k w’ith m a n y a sn ip e i n ;
M id th e b e g s o f b la c k .
S ilv e r p o o ls w ere flash in g.
C r o w s u p on th e ir sides
P ic k in g w e re an d sp lash in g.
C o c k n e y on th e ca r
C lo s e r fo ld s h is p la id y ,
G ru m b lin g at th e ro ad
L e a d s to L im a v a d d y .
T lir o u g h th e cra sh in g w o o d s
A u tu m n b ra w l’d an d b lu ster’d ,
T o s s in g ro un d ab o u t
L e a v e s th e h u e o f m u stard ;
Y o n d e r la y L o u g h F o y le ,
W h ic h a sto rm w as w h ip p in g , •
C o v e r in g w ith m ist
L a k e , an d sh ores, an d sh ip p in g.
U p an d d o w n th e h ill
(N o th in g co u ld b e b o ld er).
H o r s e w e n t w ith a ra w ,
B le e d in g o n h is sh ou ld er.
W h e r e a re h orses ch a n g e d t ”
S a id I to th e la d d y
D r iv in g o n th e b o x ;
“ S ir , a t L im a v a d d y .”
Weary wM his •oaL
Shivering and sad ha
Bumped along the road'
Leads to Limavaddy.
Limavaddy W a
BatabnmUeboitlMNM^
Where yoa may pracnve
Whidcy and potatoea;
Landloid at the door
Ghreaaamilingwelooiiie
To the diivefiiv
Who to hla hotd come.
Landlady whfain
Sits and kniti a ateckiqft
With a wary foot
Baby’s cradle rockiqg.
To the chimney nook.
Having found admittance^
There I watdi a pup
Playing with two kittens:
(Playing ronrii] the fire,
Whidh of blasting turf is,
Roaring to the pot
'
W hkhbiiblilrR with tbc tmitphlit
And the eiad|ictl
Fond the i^thcr nursed it!
Singing it a Song
A t ihe twhits Lhe worsted 1
I
Up end down tlte
Two more young ones p;ittcr |
(Twina were jiic\er seen
Dihier no# fatter);
Both have miotilod legs
Both have anubby QOSCS,
Both have—Here tin: Host
Kindly hitotposes;
PEG OF LIM AVAD D Y.
be froze
and hail, sir,
some punch,
v'e some ale, sir?”
j liquor,
>ealver).
now
ng heart meant,
ight
irtment.
smiled,
bewitching,
honour,
kitchen !
eat
ew comer,
’eg
•ummcr;
I hand
tilted,
ale
pilt i t :
P
ead my volumes,
3rd,)\
yrcall’ems !
ght
saster,
md master;
il,
; Peg’s was,
lie
n my legs was),
3*7
That the joyful sound
Of that ringing laughter
Echoed in my ears
Many a long day after.
Such a silver p eal!
In the meadows listening,
You who’ve heard the bells
Kinging to a christening ;
You who ever heard
Caradori pretty.
Smiling like an angel
Singing “ Oiovinetti,”
Fancy Peggy’s laugh.
Sweet, and clear and cheerful,
At my pantaloons
With half a pint of beer full I
When the laugh was done,
Peg, the pretty hussy.
Moved about the room
Wonderfully busy ;
Now she looks to see
If the kettle keep hot.
Now she rubs the spoons,
Now she cleans the teapot;
Now she sets the cups
Trimly and secure,
Now she scours a pot
And so it was I drew her.
Thus it was I drew her
Scouring of a kettle.*
(Faith ! her blushing cheeks
Redden’d on the metal!)
Ah ! but tis in vain
That I try to sketch i t ;
The pot perhaps is like,
But Peggy’s face is wretched.
Pope represents Camilla as scouring theplainP an absurd and
f s occupation with the kettle is much more simple and noble,
this verse (whereof the author scorns to deny an obligation) is
I “ Frithiof ” of Esaias Tigner. A maiden is serving warriors to
ing by a shield— “ Und die Runde des Schildes ward wic das
-perhaps the above is the best thing in both poems.
318
No : the best of lead.
And of Indian-rubber,
Never could depict
That sweet kettle-scrubber!
See her as she moves !
Scarce the ground she touches,
Airy as a fay.
Graceful as a duchess ;
This I do declare.
Happy is the laddy
AYho the heart can share
Of Peg of Limavaddy ;
Married if she were.
Blest would be the daddy
O f the children fair
Of Peg of Liiuavaddy ;
Beauty is not rare
In the land of Paddy,
Fair beyond compare
Is Peg of Limavaddy,
B m her iwmded um g
B fen h erlittk lvii;
VeitiiiDmrdiow’d
AnkkslilM tDF^gBr^:
Bfrnidedbherliair,
Soft her look and]
S lih ih erlitd eviu te.
Com fortab^bodlced
Citizen or squire,
Tory, W iig, or Radi*
cal would all desire
Peg of Limavaddy.
Had I Homers fire.
Or that of Sergeant Taddjf,
Meetly TM adniinc
Peg of Limavaddy.
And till I expire.
Or till 1 grow mad, 1
Will sing unto my lyre
Peg of Liiuavaddy!
(
3*9 )
C H A P T E R X X X I.
T E M PL E M O YL E — DERRY.
ROM
N ew to w n L im a v a d d y to D erry th e traveller has m any wUd
o d n oble prospects o f L o u g h F o y le and the plains an d m ountains
>und it, and o f scenes w hich m ay p ossibly in this coun try b e still
lo re agreeable to him — o f sm iling cultivation, an d com fortable
'ell-built villages, such as are o n ly too rare in Irelan d. O f a great
a i t o f this district the L o n d o n C om p anies are landlords— the b est
f landlords, to o , acco rd in g to the report I co u ld g a t h e r ; and their
o o d stew ardship show s its e lf esp ecially in the n eat villages o f M u ff
n d B a llik elly , through bo th o f w hich I passed.
In B allik elly,
esides num erous sim ple, stout, brick-built dw ellings for the peasantry,
rith their shining w indow s and trim garden-plots, is a Presbyterian
leeting-house, so w ell-built, substantial, and handsom e, so different
“om the lean , pretentious, sham -G othic ecclesiastical edifices w hich
a v e b een erected o f late years in Irelan d, that it can ’t fail to strike
he tourist w ho has m ade architecture his stu d y or his pleasure,
'h e gen tlem en ’s seats in the district are num erous and h a n d so m e ;
nd the w hole m ovem ent alon g the road beto k en ed cheerfulness and
rosperous activity.
A s the carm an h ad no other passengers but m yself, he m ade no
b je c tio n to carry m e a coup le o f m iles out o f his w ay, through the
illa g e o f M uff, belo n gin g to the G rocers o f L o n d o n (and so handDmely an d com fortably b u ilt b y them as to cause all C o ck n e y s
> e x cla im , “ W e ll done our s i d e !” ) and thence to a very interesting
istitu tio n , w hich w as established som e fifteen years since in the
e ig h b o u rh o o d — the A gricultural Sem inary o f T em p lem o yle.
It
e s o n a hill in a pretty w ooded country, and is m ost curiously
deluded from the w orld b y the tortuousness o f the road w hich
p p ro ach es it.
O f course it is n o t m y business to report upon the agricultural
^stem p ractised there, o r to discourse on the state o f the land o r the
r o p s ; the best testim ony on this subject is the fact, that the Institu
320
tion hired, a t a sm all rental, a tract o f land, w h ich w as
indtumA and
farm ed, and that o f this farm th e landlord has n ow tak en poaseadOfl^
leavin g the yo u n g farm ers to labour on a n ew tract o f landp ^ idrich
th ey p ay five tim es as m uch rent as for their form er h o ld in g M
though a person versed in agricaltu re co u ld g iv e a fe r m ore s a t i f c
to iy acco u n t o f the p lace than one to w hom such pursuits s i t qukti
unfam iliar, there is a great deal a b o u t th e establish m en t which 0117
citizen can rem ark on ; and h e m ust b e a v e ry d ifficu lt Cockoey
in deed w ho w on ’t be p leased h e r t
A fte r w inding in and out, and u p a n d dow n, a n d ro u n d about
em inence on w hich the house stands, w e
last found an etLtrance to
it, b y a court-yard, neat, well-built, a n d spacious, w h ere are the
stables and num erous offices o f th e forOL
T h e sch o la is were at
d in n er o ff a com fortable m eal o f b oiled beet^ potatoes, a n d cabbages,
w hen I a rriv ed ; a m aster was reading a b o o k o f h istm y to them;
and silence, it appears, is preserved during th e dinner*
Seventy
scholars w ere here assem bled, som e youn g, a n d so m e exp an d ed into
six feet and w hiskers— all, how ever, are m ad e to m aintain exactly the
sam e discipline, w hether w hiskered or noL
T h e “ head fa rm er" o f the school, Mr* Cam pbeU t a very intel'
ligen t Sco tch gentlem an, w as go o d enough to co n d u ct m e over the
p lace and the farm, and to g iv e a history o f d ie eatablishm cQt aad
th e course pursued there.
T h e Sem inary w as founded in 1S 17 , by
the N orth-west o f Irela n d S o ciety , b y m em bers o f w b id i a n d others
abou t three thousand pounds w ere subscribed, a n d th e b u 3 d u y of
the school erected.
T h e s e are spacious, sim ple; a n d com fofiahlei
there is a good stone house, w ith airy dorm itories, schooTroo(n% Set.,
and large and con venient offices.
T h e establishm ent b a d , a t first,
som e difficulties to co n ten d with, and for som e tim e d id n o t numtK?
m ore than thirty pupils.
A t present, there a te s e v e n ty schoUn*
p ay in g ten pounds a year, w ith w hich sum, and^ th e la b o u r o f the
pupils on the farm, and th e p ro d u ce o f it, th e school is e n tirely sup*
ported. T h e reader will, perhaps, lik e to see an e x lia c t from die
R ep o rt o f the school, w hich con tain s m ore d etails n g a c d th g it*
AGRICULTURAL SEM IN AR Y OF TEM PLEM OYLE. 321
“ TEM PLEM O YLE W O RK AN D SCH O O L TA BLE.
“
From 20th March to 23rd September.
“ Boys divided into two classes, A and fe.
Hours.
—
6—8
A t work.
8— 9
Breakfast
1— 2
Dinner and recreation.
9—1
2 -6
6— 7
7— 9
9—
A t school
A ll rise.
____ ______
A ..................................
B
B .......................................
A
Recreation.
Prepare lessons for next day.
T o bed.
“ On Tuesday B commences work in tbe morning and A at school, and so on
iltemate days.
“ Each class is again subdivided into three divisions, over each of which is placed
I monitor, selected from the steadiest and best-informed boys ; he receives the
Tead Fanner’s directions as to the work to be done, and superintends his party
vhile performing it.
“ Ini^dnter the time of labour is shortened according to the length of the day,
md the hours at school increased.
‘ ‘ In wet days, when the boys cannot work out, all are required to attend school.
“ D
ie t a r y .
Breakfast.— Eleven ounces of oatmeal made in stirabout, one pint of sweet
n ilk .
“
Sunday— Three quarters of a pound of beef stewed with pepper and
mions, or one half-pound of corned beef with cabbage, and three and a half pounds
>f potatoes.
“ Monday— One lialf-pound of pickled beef, three and a half poimds of potatoes,
>ne pint of buttermilk.
Tuesday— Broth made of one half-poimd of beef, with leeks, cabbage, and
parsley, and three and a half pounds of potatoes.
“ Wednesday— T w o ounces of butter, eight ounces of oatmeal made into bread,
three and a half pounds of potatoes, and one pint of sweet milk.
“ Thursday— H alf a pound of pickled pork, with cabbage or turnips, and three
m d a half pounds of potatoes.
“ Friday— T w o ounces of butter, eight ounces wheat meal made into bread, one
pint o f sweet milk or fresh buttermilk, three and a half pounds of potatoes.
“ Saturday— ^Two ounces of butter, one pound of potatoes mashed, eight ounces
t)f wheat meal made into bread, two and a half pounds of potatoes, one pint of
buttermilk.
“ Supper.— In summer, flummery made of one pound of oatmeal seeds, and one
pint o f sweet milk. In winter, three and a half pounds of potatoes, and one pint
3f buttermilk or sweet milk.
ai
322
**
R u le s f o r t i i k T e m fle m o v u c S c h o o l.
" I. The pupils are required to say their prayers in the morning, before lcsiv»(
the donnitory, and at night, before rcttriug to rest, each separately, and after the
manner to which he has been habituated.
** 2. The pupils are requested to wash their hands and faces Iwfore ihc umb*
mencemcnt o f business in the morning, on returning from agricultural lal'Kmr, tod
after dinner,
** 3. The pupils arc required to pay the strictest attention to Utdr iintrud^ffv
both during the hour? o f agricultural and litcraiy occupation.
**4. Strife^ disobedience, inattention, or any description of riotous or di*otdeil]r
conduct, is punishable by extra labour or confinement, as directed by the Cguuaiticr,
according to circumstances.
" 5. Diligent and respectful behaviour, continued for a considerable time, will
be rewarded by occasional permission for the pupil so distinguished to risii hW
home.
" 6. No pupil, on obtaining leave of absence, shall presume to continue U Wr
longer period than that prescribed to him on leaving the Scminaiy.
“ 7. During their rural labour, the pupiU are lo consider tlicmsclvcs ainewhl*
to the authority of their Agricultural Instructor alone^ and during theirattetukotr
in the schooUroom, to that of their Literary Instructor alone.
** 8. Non-attendance during any part of the time ailotieti either for litcKUj
agricultural employment, will be punished as a serious ofTcuce.
" 9. During the hours of recreation Llic pupils are to be under the >vuperitit<aleuce o f their Instructors, and not suffered to pass beyond the limits tif the fana,
except under their guidance, or with a written permission from one o f them,
10. The pupils are required to make up their beds, and keep those dotheiM
in Lntmcdiatc use neatly folded np in their trunks, and to be particulAf in nem
suffering any garment, 1x>ok, implement, or other article bclongitig to or uk»1 t>J
them, to lie about in a slovenly or disorderly manner.
** II. Respect to superiors, and gentleness of demeanour, both among thepopili
themselves and tow ard the servants and labourers o f the esublUhmcnt, nr
particularly insisted upon, and will be considered a prominent ground o f approb'
tion and reward.
12. On Sundays the pupils are required to attend thdr respective plactii d
worsliip, accompanied by their Instructors or Monitors ; and it is earnestly recctii
mended to them to employ a part of the remainder of the day in sincerely iwrt»ug
the Word of God, and in such other devotional exercises as th d f rtsjicetne
ministers may jôint out."
A t certain periods o f the year, when all hands are requirctl^ sud
as harvest, & c., the literary labours o f the scholars are stopped, and
they are all in th e field*
O n the present occasion w e follow ed than
into a potato-field, where an arm y o f them were em ployed digging
out the p o ta to e s ; while another regim ent were trenching-in elsewhere
for the w in te r: the boys were leading the carts to and fro*
T o reach
TEM PLEM OYLE SCHOOL.
th e
323
potatoes w e had to pass a field, part o f w hich was n ew ly
p lo u g h e d : the p loughin g w as the w ork o f the bo ys, t o o ; one o f
th e m b ein g left with an experienced ploughm an for a fortnight a t a
t im e , in w hich space the lad can acquire som e practice in the art.
A m o n g s t the potatoes and the bo ys digging them, I observed a
n u m b e r o f girls, tak in g them up as dug and rem oving the soil from
t h e roots. Such a so ciety for seventy youn g men w ould, in any other
c o u n tr y in the w orld, be n ot a littie d a n g ero u s; but M r. C am p bell
s a id that no instance o f harm had ever occurred in consequence, and
I b e lie v e his statem ent m ay b e fully relied o n : the w hole country
b e a r s testim ony to this noble purity o f morals. Is there a n y other
in E u ro p e w hich in this point can com pare with it ?
I n w inter the farm works do not o ccup y the pupils so m uch, and
t h e y g iv e m ore tim e to their literary studies.
T h e y get a good
E n g lis h e d u c a tio n ; they are grounded in arithm etic and m athem atics ;
a n d I saw a go o d m ap o f an adjacen t farm, m ade from actual survey
b y o n e o f the pupils. Som e o f them are go o d draughtsm en likew ise,
b u t o f their perform ances I co u ld see no specim en, the artists bein g
a b ro ad , o ccupied w isely in digging the potatoes.
A n d here, kpropos, not o f the school but o f potatoes, let m e tell
a p o ta to story, w hich is, I think, to the purpose, w herever it is told.
I n th e coun ty o f M a yo a gentlem an b y the nam e o f C rofton is a
la n d e d proprietor, in w hose neighbourhood great distress prevailed
a m o n g the peasantry during the spring and summer, w hen the
p o tato es o f the last year were consum ed, and before those o f the
p resen t season w ere up.
M r. Crofton , b y liberal donations on h is
o w n part, and b y a subscription w hich w as set on foot am ong h is
friends in E n gland as w ell as in Ireland, was enabled to co llect a sum
o f m on ey sufficient to purchase m eal for the people, w hich was given
t o them , or sold at v e ry low prices, until the pressure o f w ant was
w ithdraw n, and the blessed potato-crop cam e in.
Som e time in
O cto b er, a smart night’s frost m ade Mr. C rofton think that it was
tim e to tak e in and p it his own p otatoes, and he told his steward to
g e t labourers accordin gly.
N e x t day, on goin g to the potato-grounds, he found the w hole
fields swarm ing w ith p e o p le ; the w hole crop w as out o f the ground,
and again im der it, p itted an d covered, and the people gon e, in a
le w hours.
I t was as i f the fairies that w e read o f in the Irish
l ^ e n d s , as com ing to the aid o f go o d people and helping them in
a
324
their labours, had taken a likin g to this go o d U n d lo td , and taken in
his harvest for him.
M r. Crofton, w h o kn ew w h o his h d p c n IwlI
been, sent the steward to p ay them their day’s w ages, and to ihanV
them at the sam e time for havin g com e to help him a t a itrac when
their labour was so useful to him.
O n e a n d a ll refused a penny;
and their spokesm an said, “ T h e y w ished th ey co u ld d o more for
the likes o f him or his fam ily.”
I h ave heard o f tnatiy con
spiracies in this c o u n try ; is not this one as w orth y t o b e told 25
any o f them ?
R oun d the house o f T em p lem o yle is a p retty gard en , which the
pupils take pleasure in cultivating, filled not w ith fiirit (for this,
though there are seventy gardeners, the superintendent said somehot
seldoiii reached a ripe state), b ut w ith k itch en herba, a n d a few beds
o f pretty flowers, such as are b e st suited to co ttag e hortiailture
Such simple carpenters’ and masons’ work as th e yo u n g m en can io
is likew ise confided to th e m ; and though the dietary m a y appear to
the Englishm an as rather a scanty one, and though th e English lads
certainly m ake at first very w ry faces at the stirabout p onidffc (as
they naturally will when first put in the presence o f th a t abominabk
m ixture), y e t after a tim e, strange to say, th ey b ^ ;m to find
it actually ]>alatable; and the best p ro o f o f th e e x ce lle n ce Of the did
is, tliat n obody is ever ill in the in stitution ; co ld s and fCvers and the
ailm ents o f lazy, gluttonous gentility, arc u n kn o w n ; a n d the doctors
bill for the last year, for seventy pupils, am ounted t o thirty-f^^‘c
shillings.
0 beati agruoHcuIa / Y o u do not kn ow w h a t it b to fed
a little uneasy after half-a-crown’s worth o f raspbeny-tarts, a s lads do
a t the best p ublic s c h o o ls ; you don’t know m w hat m ajestic polishtvi
hexam eters the Rom an p oet has described yo u r p u rsu its; y o il are not
fagged and flogged into L atin and G reek a t the coat o f tw o hundred
pounds a year. L et these be the privileges o f your youthful betters;
m eanwhile content yourselves with thin kin g tb U y o u -iWv preparing
for a profession, while th ey are not; that you ere lea rn in g somethiug
useful, while they, for the m ost part, are n o t : fo r after a ll, as a man
grows old in the world, old and fat, cricket is d iscovered not to be
any longer very advanLigeous to him— even to h ave p u lled in the
T rin ity boat does not in old a g e am ount to a su b stan tid advantage;
and though to read a G reek p la y be an im m ense pleasure, y e t it mnsx
be confessed few en jo y i t In the first p lace, o f the ra ce o f Etonians,
and H an o vian s, and Carthusians that o n e m eets in the world, very
TEM PLEM OYLE, OR E TO N ?
325
can read the G r e e k ; o f those few— there are not, as I believe,
fe w
a n y con siderable m ajority o f poets.
Stout men in the bow-windows
o f clu b s (for such youn g E tonians b y time becom e) are n ot gen erally
rem a rk a b le for a taste for ^ s c h y lu s .* Y o u do n ot hear m uch p oetry
in W estm inster H a ll, or I believe at the bar-tables afterw ard s; and if
o cca sio n a lly , in the H o u se o f Com m ons, Sir R o b e rt P e el lets o ff a
q u o ta tio n — â pocket-pistol w added w ith a le a f to m out o f H o ra ce —
d e p e n d on it it is only to astonish the country gentlem en w ho don ’t
u n d erstan d h im : and it is m y firm con viction that Sir R o b e rt no
m o re cares for poetry than you or I do.
S u c h thoughts w ould suggest them selves to a m an w ho has had
th e benefit o f w hat is called an education at a public school in
E n g la n d , w hen he sees seven ty lads from all parts o f the em pire
lea rn in g w hat his L atin poets and philosophers have inform ed him
is th e b est o f all pursuits,— finds them educated at one-twentieth
p a rt o f the co st w hich has b een bestow ed on his own precious
p e r s o n ; orderly w ithout the n ecessity o f subm itting to degradin g
p erso n a l p u n ish m en t; young, and full o f health and blood, though
v ic e is unknow n am ong th e m ; and brought up d ecen tly and hon estly
to k n o w the things w hich it is go o d for them in tlieir profession to
k n o w . So it is, h o w e v e r; all the w orld is im proving excep t the
gen tlem en .
T h e re are at this present w riting five hundred bo ys
a t E to n , k ick ed , and licked , and bullied, b y another hundred—
scru b b in g shoes, running errands, m akin g false concords, and (as if
th a t w ere a natural c o n s e q u e n c e !) p uttin g their posteriors on a
b lo c k for D r. H a w trey to lash a t ; and still callin g it education.
T h e y are proud o f it— ^good h e a v e n s !— absolutely vain o f i t ; as
w h at dull barbarians are not proud o f their dulness and barbarism ?
T h e y call it the go o d old E n glish system : n oth ing like classics, says
S ir John, to give a b o y a taste, you know , and a habit o f reading—
(Sir Joh n, w ho reads the “ R a cin g C a len d a r,” and belon gs to a race
o f m en o f all the w orld the least given to reading,)— it’s the go o d
o ld E n glish s y s te m ; every b o y fights for him self— hardens ’em, eh.
J a c k ? J a c k grins, and helps him self to another glass o f claret, and
p re se n tly tells you ho w T ib b s and M iller fought for an hour and
tw e n ty m inutes “ like go o d uns.” . . . L e t us com e to an end, how♦ A n d th en , h o w m u ch L a tin and G re e k d o es th e p u b lic sch o o l-b o y k n o w ?
A ls o ,
d o e s h e k n o w a n y th in g else, an d w h a t ?
m a th e m a tic s , o r d iv in ity ?
I s it h isto ry, o r g e o g ra p h y , o r
326
THE IRISH SK E T C H BOOK.
ever, o f this m o ra lizin g ; the car-drircr has brought A e old w
shouldered horse out o f the stable, and says it is tune to be off
again.
•
•
Before quitting T em p lem o yle, one thing more may be bridmifci
favour. It is one o f the v e ry few public establishnSents m IrdnA
w here pupils o f the two religious denominations are receiTed^mi
w here no religious disputes have taken place. The pup3s are c iU
upon, m orning and evening, to say Aeir prayen privafedy. Oo
Sunday, each division, Presbyterian, Roman CathoUc, and
palian, is m arched to its proper place of worship. The pastm rf
each sect m ay Ansit their yo u n g flock when so inclined; and flw hdi
devo te the S abbath cA'ening to reading the books pointed oat 10
them b y their clergym en .
W o u ld not the A gricu ltu ral Society of Ireland, o f the snccero of
w hose peaceful labours for the national prosperity eveiry Izidi neas
p aper I read brings som e new indication, do well to show SOM
m ark o f its sym pathy for this excellent institution o f TenqdeoMjh?
A silver m edal given b y the Society to the most deserving p q iio f
the year, Avould be a great object of emulation amongst the
m en educated at the place, and would be almost a certain
for the Avinner in seekin g for a situation in after life. I do not kaot
i f sim ilar sem inaries exist in England. Other seminaries o f a Sta
nature h ave been tried in this coimtry, and have foiled: but
country gen tlem en cannot, I shotild Aink, find a better olêct xt
their attention than this s c h o o l; and our formers would. s m d y f a i
such establishm ents o f great benefit to A e m ; where A d r ddlAca
m ight procure a sound literary education at a small charge^ and d
the sam e time be m ade acquainted AviA A e latest unprorementtii
their profession. I ca n ’t help saying here, once more, what I h M
said kpropos o f the excellen t school at Dundalk,'’and b cgg iiv A i
E n glish m iddle classes to think of A e subject I f Govenuniitt u A
not act (upon w hat n ever can be effectual, perhaps, until it beOHS^
national m easure), let sm all communities act for A e m id ra ^ t f l
tradesm en and the m iddle classes set up CHEAP PROPnOBtfit
SCHOOLS. W ill coun try newspaper editors, into whose hands A i
b o o k m ay fall, be kind enough to speak upon this hint; and eatiaOt
the tables o f the T em p lem o yle and Dundalk establiAments, to Hoo
how , and w ith Avhat sm all m eans, boys may be well, tound^^ m i
hum an ely educated— n ot brutally, as some of us have 1
DERRY.
327
t h e b itter faggin g and the sham eful rod.
It is no p lea for the
b a r b a r ity that use has m ade us accustom ed to i t ; and in seeing
t h e s e institutions for hum ble lads, w here the system taught is a t
o n c e usefu l, m anly, and kin dly, and thin kin g o f w h at I h ad under
g o n e in m y own youth,— o f the frivolous m onkish trifling in w hich
i t w a s w asted, o f the brutal tyranny to w hich it w as subjected,—
I c o u ld not lo o k at the lads b ut w ith a sort o f e n v y : p lease G o d ,
th e ir lo t w ill b e shared b y thousands o f their equals and their betters
b e fo r e l o n g !
I t w as a proud d a y for D u n d alk, M r. T h a ck e ra y w ell said, w hen,
a t th e end o f one o f the vacations there, fourteen E n glish boys, and
a n E n glishm an w ith his little son in his hand, landed from the L iv e r
p o o l p ack et, and, w alkin g through th e streets o f the town, w ent in to
th e school-house quite happy. T h a t um a proud day in truth for a
d ista n t Irish town, and I can ’t help sayin g that I grudge them the
c a u s e o f their pride som ewhat. W h y should there n ot b e schools in
E n g la n d as go o d , and as cheap, and as h ap py ?
W'ith this, shakin g M r. C a m p b ell gratefu lly b y the hand, and
b ^ ;g in g all E n glish tourists to g o and visit his establishm ent, w e
tro tted o ff for L on don derry, leavin g at about a m ile’s distance from
th e tow n , and at the p retty lodge o f Saint C o lu m b ’s, a letter, w hich
w as th e cause o f m uch delightful hospitality.
S ain t C o lu m b ’s C h ap el, the w alls o f w hich still stand pictur
e sq u e ly in Sir G eo rge H ill’s park, and from w hich that gen tlem an ’s
se a t tak es its nam e, w as here since the sixth century. I t is but fair
t o g iv e preceden ce to the m ention o f the old ab b ey, w hich w as the
fath er, as it w ould seem , o f the town. T h e approach to the latter
fro m three quarters, certain ly, b y w hich various avenues I had
o cca sio n to see it, is alw ays noble. W e had seen the spire o f the
c a th ed ra l peerin g o ver the hills for four m iles on our w ay ; it stands,
a stalw art and handsom e building, upon an em inence, round w hich
th e old-fashioned stout red houses o f the town cluster, girt in w ith
th e ram parts and w alls that k e p t out Jam es’s soldiers o f old. Q uays,
facto ries, huge red w arehouses, have grow n round this fam ous old
barrier, and now stretch alon g the river. A coup le o f large steam ers
a n d o th er craft lay within the b r id g e ; and, as w e passed over that
s to u t w oo d en edifice, stretching eleven hundred feet across the n oble
e x p a n se o f the F o yle, w e heard alon g the quays a great thundering
a n d clatterin g o f iron-w ork in an enorm ous steam frigate w hich has
323
TH E IRISH SK E TCH B O O K
been built in Den>'j a n d seem s to lie alongside a whole street of
houses. T h e suburb, too, through w hich \ve passed W'as bustling anti
com fortable ; and the view w as n ot o n ly pleasing from its natural
beauties, but has a m anly, thriving, honest air o f prosperity, which is
no b a d feature, surely, for a landscape.
N o r does the town itself, as one enters it, b elie, as many other
Irish tow ns do, its first flourishing look. It is n o t splcndj<l, hut
c o m fo rta b le ; a brisk m ovem ent in the s tr e e ts : go o d downright
shops, wnthoul particularly grand titles ; few beggars. N o r have the
com m on people, as they address you, that eager sm ile,— that manuet
o f com poun d faw ning and swaggering, AvJiich an Englishm an finds iP
the tow nspeople o f the ^Vest and South, A s in the N orth o f Eng
land, to o , ivhen com pared with oth er districts, the p eo p le arc greatly
m ore familiar, though b y no m eans disrespectful to the strauger
O n the other hand, after such a com m erce as a traveller has mth
the race o f waiters, postboys, porters, and the like (and it maybe
that the vast race o f postboys, & c „ whom 1 did n ot see in tlie North,
are quite unlike Urose un lucky specim ens with Avhora I came in
con tact), I Avas struck b y their excessive greediness after th e travcllci'i
gratuities, and their fierce dissatisfaction if not sufficiently rcwwledi
T o the gentlem an Avho brushed m y clothes at the com fortable hottl
at Belfast, and carried m y bags to tbe co a ch , I tendererl Uie sum of
tw o shillings, w liich seem ed to m e quite a sufficient rew ard for his
s e r v ic e s ; he battled and braw led with m e for m ore, and g o t it to o ;
for a street-dispute with a porter calls togeth er a num ber o f delighted
bystanders, w hose rem arks and com p an y are b y no m eans agreeable
to a solitary gentlem an. T h en , again, there w-as the fam ous case of
B oots o f Ballycastle, w'hich, b ein g upon the subject, I m ay os well men*
tion here : B oots o f B allycastle, that rom antic little v illa g e near the
G ian t’s C ausew ay, had clean ed a pair o f shoes for m e certain ly, but
declined either to brush m y clothes, or to carry' dowm m y tAvo catpctb ags to the c a r ; lea v in g me to perform tliosc offices for m y self, wffiich
1
I d i d : and in deed th ey Avere not very difficult. But im m ediately
was seated on the car, Mr. B oots step ped forward and w rapped a
m ackintosh very con siderately round me, and begged m e at the same
tim e to “ rem em ber him .”
T h e re was an old beggar-Avoraan standing by, to w'hom I had a
desire to present a p e n n y ; and havin g no coin o f that value, 1
begged M r. B oots, out o f a sixpence w hich I tenderetl to him, to
HOTEL PIE TY .
s u b tra c t a pen ny, and present it to the old
329
lad y in
question.
M r . B o o ts tobk the m oney, lo o k ed at m e, and his countenance, not
n a tu r a lly good-hum oured, assum ed an expression o f the m ost indignant
c o n te m p t and hatred as he said, “ Tm thin kin g I V e no call to giv e m y
m o n e y away. Sixp en ce is m y right for w hat IV e do n e.”
“ Sir,” says I, “ you m ust rem em ber that yo u did b u t b la ck one
p a ir o f shoes, and that yo u b la ck ed them very b ad ly too.”
“ Sixp en ce is m y right,” says B o o ts ; “ a gentleman w ou ld g iv e m e
s ix p e n c e ! ” and though I represented to him that a p air o f shoes
m ig h t b e b la ck ed in a m inute— that fivepen ce a m inute w as not
u su a l w ages in the co un try— that m any gentlem en, half-pay officers,
b riefless barristers, unfortunate literary gentlem en, w ould g la d ly b la ck
tw e lv e pairs o f shoes p er diem if rew arded with five shillings for so
d o in g , there w as no m eans o f co n vin cin g M r. B oots.
I then
d em an d ed b a ck the sixpence, w hich proposal, how ever, he declined,
sa>ing, after a struggle, he w ould g iv e the m oney, b u t a gen tle
m an w ould h ave given s ix p e n c e ; and so left m e w itli furious rage
an d co n te m p t
A s for the city o f D erry, a carm an w ho drove m e one m ile out to
d in n e r a t a gen tlem an ’s house, w here he him self w as p rovid ed w ith a
co m fo rtable m eal, w as dissatisfied with eighteenpence, vow in g that a
“ d in n e r jo b ” w as alw ays paid half-a-crown, and n ot o n ly asserted
this, b u t con tin ued to assert it for a quarter o f an hour w ith the m ost
n o b le though unsuccessful perseverance. A second car-boy, to w hom
I g a v e a shilling for a drive o f two m iles altogether, a ttacked m e
b e ca u se I ga ve the other b o y e ig h te e n p e n c e ; and the porter w ho
b ro u g h t m y bags fifty yards from the coach, entertained m e w ith a
d ia lo g u e that lasted at least a couple o f m inutes, and said, “ I should
h a v e h ad sixp ence for carryin g one o f ’em .”
F o r the car w hich carried m e two m iles the landlord o f the inn
m a d e m e p ay the sum o f five shillings. H e is a go d ly landlord, has
B ib le s in the coffee-room , the drawing-room , and every bed-room in
th e house, w ith this inscription—
U T
M IG R A TU R U S
THE
t r a v e l l e r ’s
H A B IT A .
TRUE REFUGE.
J o n es’s H o t e l, L o n d o n d e r ry .
T h is pious d o u b le or triple entendre, the reader w ill, no doubt,
a d m ire — the first sim ile establishing the resem blance betw een this life
330
and an i n n ; the second allegory show ing that the inn and the Bible
are both the traveller’s refuge.
In life w e are in death — the hotel in question is abou t os gay as
a fam ily v a u l t ; a severe figure o f a landlord, in s e e d y black, tjt
o ccasio n ally seen in the dark passages or on the creakin g old stain
o f the black inn. H e does not bow to yo u — very few landlords in
Ireland con descend to ackn o w led ge their guests— h e o n ly warnx you:
— a silent solem n gentlem an w h o looks to be so m eth in g between a
clergym an and a sexton— “ ut migratvirus h a b ita ! ”— th e “ migraiurus"
was a vast com fort in the clause.
It must, how ever, be said, for the consoiation o f future tmvelleti,
that when at evening, in the o ld lo n e ly parlour o f the inn, the gtol
gaunt fireplace is filled with coals, tw o dreary funereal candles and
sticks glim m ering upon the old-fashioned round table, the nm
pattering fiercely w ithout, the wind roaring and thum ping in Ac
streets, this vrorthy gen tlem an can produce a pint o f port-fl^Hnc for
the use o f his migratoTy' guest, w hich causes the latter to be
ulmofii
recon ciled to the cem etery m which he is resting him self, and he
finds himself, to his surprise, alm ost cheerful. T h e re is a moîldy
lookin g old kitchen, too, w hich, strange to say, sends out an excellent
com fortable dinner, so that th e sensation o f fear grad u ally wears off.
A s in Chester, the ram parts o f the town form a pleasnt
p ro m e n a d e ; and the batteries, wdth a few o f the can n o n , are pre
served, with w hich the stout ’p rentice boys o f D en y ' b eat off Kiog
Jam es in ’88. T h e guns b ear the names o f the L on don Companies
1
— venerable C o c k n e y titles
I t is pleasant for a L o n d o n er to read
them, and see how, at a pinch, th e sturdy citizens can do their ^\ort
T h e p u b lic buildings o f D e n y ore,
think, am ong the best I
have seen in I r e la n d ; and the L unatic A sylum , especially, is to be
pointed out as a m odel o f neatness and com fort. W h en will the
m iddle classes be allow ed to send their own afflicted relatives to
1
public institutions o f this e x cellen t kind, w here vio le n ce is ncwr
practised— where it is never to the interest o f the keep er o f the
asylum to exaggerate his patient's m alady, or to retain him lO
durance, for the sak e o f the enorm ous sums w liich the sufferer’s
relatives are m ade to p a y ! The gentry o f three counties which
contribute to the A sylum have no such resource for m em bers o f their
own body, should any be so afflicted— th e condition o f enieriog this
adm irable asylum is, tliat the p atient m ust be a pauper, and on this
H OSPITALITY.
33I
icco u n t he is supplied w ith every com fort and tlie best curative
n ean s, and his relations are in p erfect security. A re the rich in an y
ra y so lu ck y ?— ând if n ot, w h y n ot ?
T h e rest o f the occurrences at D e n y belon g, unhappily, to the
lo m ain o f p rivate life, and though ve ry p leasant to recall, are n ot
lo n e stly to b e printed. O therw ise, w hat popular descriptions m ight
le w ritten o f the hospitalities o f St. C o lu m b ’s, o f the jovialities o f
he m e ss o f the — ^th R egim en t, o f the speeches m ade and th e songs
u n g , an d the d evilled turkey at tw elve o ’clo ck , and the headache
ft e r w a r d s ; all w hich events co u ld b e described in an exceed in gly
u « t io u s manner. B ut these am usem ents are to be m et w ith in every
ith er p art o f her M a jesty’s dom inions ; and the o n ly point w hich m ay
« m en tio n ed here as p ecu liar to this part o f Ireland, is the difference
th e m anner o f the gen try to that in the South. T h e N orthern
a a n n e r is far m ore English than that o f the other provinces o f Irelan d
—w h eth e r it is better for bein g E n glish is a question o f taste, o f w hich
xk E n glishm an can scarcely be a fair judge.
332
CH APTER
X X X II,
DUBLIN AT LAST*
A WEDDiNG-PARiv that went across D e n y B ridge to th e sound ofbdl
and cannon, had to flounder through a thick co at o f frozen sucw,
that covered tbe slippery plan ks, and the hills round about vm
w hitened over by die same in clem ent material. N o r wâs the wealhctr
im placable towards youn g lovers and un liap p y bu ck sk in posdiioiis
shivering in white favours, at all more p olite toivards th e passcagH
5
o f her M ajesty's mail tliat runs from D erry to BaJlyshannon.
H e n ce the aspect o f the coun try betw een those tw □ places can
only be described at the rate o f nine miles an hour, a n d from such
points o f observation as m ay be had through a coach window*, nuntd
with ice and mud. W h ile horses w'ere chan ged w'e saw a vcr>’ dittj
tow'n, called S tra b a n e ; and had to visit the o ld ho u se of the
O 'D o n n els in D on egal during a quarter-of-an^hour’s p au se that the
coach m ade there— and with an um brella overhead, l l i e pursuit of
the picturesque under um brellas let us leave to m ore venturesome
souls : tlie fine w eather o f d ie finest season know n for m any longyears
in Irelan d was over, and
tliought with a great deal o f yearning of
1
P at the waiter, at the “ Shelburne H o te l,” Stephen’s G reen , Dublin,
and the gas lamps, and the covered cars, and the g o o d dinners to
w hich th ey take you.
Farew Til, then,
w’ild D o n e g a l! and y e stem passes through
0
w hich the astonished traveller w indelb ! Farew ell, Ballyshannon, anJ
th y salm on-leap, and thy bar o f sand, o ve r which the w h ite head of
the troubled A tla n tic Avas peeping ! L ikew ise, adieu to Ixm gh Emcv
and its num berless green islands, and wdnding riverdakc, and v2vy
fir-clad hills ! G ood-by, m oreover, n eat E nniskillen, over the bridge
and churches w hereof the sun p eepeth as the coach starteth from the
i n n ! See, how he shines n ow on Lord B elm ore's stately palace and
park, with gleam in g porticoes and brilliant grassy ch a ses: now,
behold he is y e t higher in the heavens, as the tw an gin g horn pro
claim s the approach to beggarly C avan , where a beggarly breakfast
aw aits the hungry voyager*
DINNERS IN D U BLIN
333
Snatching up a roll Avherewith to satisfy the pan gs o f hunger,
larpened b y the m o ckery o f breakfast, the tourist now hastens in his
rduous course, through V irgin ia, K e lls, N avan, b y T a r a ’s threadare m ountain, and Skreen ’s green h i l l ; d ay darkens, and a hundred
lousand lam ps tw inkle in the gray horizon— see a b o v e the darkling
*ees a stum py colum n rise, see on its b ase the nam e o f W ellington
:hough this, because ’tis night, thou canst n ot see), and cry, “ I t is
le P h a y n ixr — O n and on, across the iron bridge, and through the
areets, (dear streets, though dirty, to the citizen ’s heart how dear you
e I) and lo, now , w ith a bum p, the dirty co a ch stops a t the seedy
m, six ragged porters battle for the bags, six w h eed lin g carm en
jcom m end their cars, and (givin g first the coachm an eighteen pence)
le C o c k n e y says, “ D rive, car-boy, to the ‘ Shelburne.* ”
A n d so havin g reached D ublin, it becom es necessary to curtail the
jserva tio n s w hich w ere to b e m ade upon that c i t y ; w hich surely
jg h t to have a volum e to it s e lf: the humours o f D u blin at least
q u ir e so m uch space. F o r instance, there w as the d in ner a t the
ild a re Street C lu b , or the H o te l opposite,— the dinner in T rin ity
o lle g e H a ll,— that at M r .
, the publisher’s, w here a dozen o f
e literary m en o f Irelan d w ere assem bled,— and those (say fifty)
ith H a rry L orrequ er him self, at his m ansion o f T em p leogue.
'h a t a favourable opportunity to discourse upon the peculiarities o f
is h c h a ra c te r! to describe m en o f letters, o f fashion, and university
> n s!
S k etch e s o f these personages m ay b e prepared, and sent over,
jrh a p s, in co n fiden ce to M rs. Sigourney in A m erica— (w ho w ill o f
>urse n ot print them )— but the E n glish habit does n ot allow o f these
ip p y com m unications betAveen Avriters and the p u b lic ; and the
ith o r w ho wishes to dine again at his friend’s cost, m ust needs have
c a r e how he puts him in print.
Suffice it to say, that at K ild a re Street Ave h ad w hite neckcloth s,
a c k w aiters, w ax-candles, and som e o f the best w ine in E u r o p e ; at
[ r . -------, the publisher’s, wax-candles, and som e o f the best w ine in
u r o p e ; at M r. L ever’ s, wax-candles, and som e o f the best w ine in
.urope ; at T rin ity C o lle g e — but there is n o need to m ention what
K)k p lace at T rin ity C o lle g e ; for on returning to L on d o n , and
x:ou ntin g the circum stances o f the repast, m y friend B
, a
fa s te r o f A rts o f that university, solem nly declared the thing was
n p o s s ib le :— n o stranger
could din e at T rin ity C o lle g e j it was too
al)oiit foiir-and-twenty :
tabic after dinner ; and,
in the apartm ents o f a
m idnight.
iJid we sw all
(luestion.
Of the Catholic Coll
briefly, for the reason that
ment would \)C of necessit
over in a few words. An
so needless, filth so disg
Englishman who has not
dining-hall, kitchen and st
never forget the sight of sc
filthy floor in the former, or
I saw in the other. Let
shillingsLworth of whitewash
if to this be added a half
students appear clean at le
heads up and to look peopl
some cheap reforms into the
than here. 'VVhy should the
dirty? Lime is cheap, and '
should a stranger, after a weel
a priest by the scowl on his 1
Is it a point of disciolinp
THE LORD MAYOR.
335
d in g y a b o d e fo r the R ig h t H o n o u rab le L o rd M ayor, and that L o rd
M a y o r M r. O ’C o n n ell. I saw him in full co un cil, in a brilliant robe
o f crim son velvet, ornam ented w ith w hite satin bo w s and sable
collar, in an enorm ous cocked-hat, lik e a slice o f an eclipsed m oon—
in th e follow ing costum e, in fact—
T h e A lderm en and C om m on C o u n cil, in a b la ck o ak parlour,
a n d a t a din gy green table, w ere assem bled around him, and a debate
o f thrillin g interest to the town ensued.
I t related, I think, to
w a te r -p ip e s ; the great m an did n ot speak p u blicly, b u t w as occup ied
ch ie fly at the end o f th e table, givin g audiences to at least a score o f
c lien ts and petitioners.
T h e n ext day I saw him in the fam ous C o m E xch an ge. T h e
b u ild in g w ithout has a substantial lo o k , but the h a ll w ithin is rude,
d irty, and ill-kept. H u ndreds o f persons w ere assem bled in the
b la c k , steam ing p l a c e ; n o in considerable share o f frieze-coats w ere
a m o n g t h e m ; and m any sm all R ep ea lers, w ho co u ld b u t la te ly h a ve
waier-power would be dir
vast energies and resonrc
the rei)ort, three cheers v
great shouting Mr. O ’Con
“ Mr. Quighn, Mr. Qi
door-keeper, “ a covered
car came; I saw Iiis lordi
Mayor no longer; but Ak
the handsome grays whost
following the new Lord M:
Javelin men, city marshals i
carriages, glass coaches, car
of yelling ragamuflins, forr
worn-out, insolvent old Dub
The walls of this city h:
the public, that O’Connell’s i
to all the chapels in town on
of some Protestant friends),
door was barred, of course,
at the humble entrances, and
willingness of the people tc
who drove me had paid hi<
mass ; the waiter who brough
subscription with his humbk
with whom 1 dined, and bet
AMUSEMENTS.
337
T h e service at S t P a trick ’s is finely s u n g ; and the sham eless
Inglish custom o f retreating after the anthem , is properly prevented
y lo ck in g the gates, and having the m usic after the sermon. T h e
ite r io r o f the cathedral itself, how ever, to an Englishm an w ho has
e en the neat and beautiful edifices o f his ow n coun tiy, w ill be anyh in g but an o b ject o f adm iration. T h e greater part o f the huge
Id buildin g is suffered to rem ain in gaunt d ecay, and w ith its stalls
f sham G o th ic, and the taw dry old rags and gim cracks o f the “ m ost
lu strio u s order o f Saint P a trick ,” (whose pasteboard helm ets, and
a lic o banners, and lath swords, w ell characterize the hum bug o f
h iv a liy w hich they are m ade to represent,) lo o ks like a theatre
behind the scenes. “ P a d d y ’s O p era ,” how ever, is a n oble perform.n c e ; and the Englishm an m ay here listen to a half-hour serm on,
.nd in the anthem to a bass singer w hose vo ice is one o f the finest
;ver heard.
T h e D ram a does not flourish m uch m ore in D u blin than in any
)ther part o f the country.
O p eratic stars m ake their appearance
)Ccasionally, and m anagers lose m oney. I w as at a fine concert, at
vh ich L ab la ch e and others perform ed, w here there w ere not a
lu n d red people in the pit o f the p retty theatre, and where the o n ly
m core given w as to a yo u n g w om an in ringlets and yello w satin,
v h o stepped forw ard and sang “ C o m in g through the ly e ,” or some
)ther scientific composition,* in an exceed in gly small voice. O n
;he nights w hen the regular dram a was enacted, the audience
v a s still sm aller. T h e theatre o f F isham ble Street was given up to
;he perform ances o f the R e v . M r. G regg and his Protestant com>any, w hose soirees I did n ot a tte n d ; and, at the A b b e y Street
T heatre, w hither I w ent in order to see, if possible, som e specim ens
th e national humour, I found a com pan y o f English peop le
'a n tin g through a m elodram a, the tragedy w hereof was the only
laughable thing to b e w itnessed.
H u m b ler popular recreations m ay b e seen b y the curious.
O ne
lig h t I paid tw open ce to see a puppet-show — such an entertainm ent
IS m a y h a ve b e en popu lar a hundred and thirty years ago, and is
described in the Spectator. B ut the com pan y here assem bled were
not, it scarcely n eed be said, o f the gen teel s o rt T h e re w ere a score
o f b o y s, how ever, and a dozen o f labouring men, w ho w ere quite
happy and co n ten ted w ith the p iece perform ed, and lo udly applauded.
T h e n in p assing hom ewards o f a night, you hear, a t the hum ble
22
338
public-houses, the sound o f m any a fiddle, and th e s u m p of fwt
dancing the go o d old jig, w hich is still m aintam m g a struggle vitt)
teetotalism , and, though vanquished now , m ay ra lly som e day and
overcom e the enem y.
A t K in gstow n , especially, the old “ fire
worshippers ” yet seem to muster pretty strongly ; lom l is the ixmv
to be heard in the taverns there, and the cries o f encouragement tu
the dancers.
O f the num berless aim isem ents that take p lace in th e P/rairfiisy ii
is not very necessary to speak. H e re you m ay b e h o ld garrison rc c s
and re vie w s; lord-lieutenants in brow n great-coats ; aldes-<le-CMQp
scam pering about like m ad in b lu e ; fat colonels roarin g “ charge"tw
im m ense heavy d ra g o o n s; dark riflemen lining w oo d s and firing;
gallopin g cannoneers banging and blazin g right and left.
Heir
com es his E x celle n cy the Com m tinder-in-Chief, w ith his hu ge feathers,
and white hair, and hooked n ose ; and yonder sits his E xcellency 6c
A m bassador from the republic o f T o p in am bo in a glass coach, jtmokiug
a cigar.
T h e honest D u blin ites m ake a great deal o f jiuch small
dignitaries as his E x celle n cy o f the glass coach ; you hear cvcr>iJod)f
talking o f him^ and asking wdiich is he ; and w hen p resen tly one of
Sir R o bert Peel's sons m akes his appearance on the co urse, the public
rush delighted to lo o k at liim.
T h e y love great folks, those honest E m erald Islanders, more
intensely than any people I ever heard of, e xcep t the Americans.
T h e y still cherish the m em ory o f the sacred G eo rge IV . The)
chronicle genteel sm all beer with never-failing assuluity. T h e y go in
long trains to a sham court— simy>ering in tights and bags, w ith swordi
betw een their legs,
h e a ic n and eartli, what jo y ' W h y are the
0
Irish noblem en absen tees?
I f their lordships like le s p c c t, wlrerc
w ould they ge t it so well as in their owm country- ?
T h e Irish noblem en are very lik e ly go in g through
delightful routine o f duty before their real sovereign— in
the wntc
real tigbl5
and bag-wigs, as it were, perform ing their graceful and lo fty duties,
and celebrating the august service o f the throne. These* o f course,
the truly loyal heart can o n ly re s p e c t: and I think a drawing-room il
S t Jam es’s the grandest spectacle that ever feasted the e y e or cxcr
cised the intellect. T h e crown, surrounded b y its kn igh ts a n d nobla,
its priests^ its sages, and their respective la d ie s ; illustrious foFcignen,
m en learned in the law^ heroes o f land and sea, becf-eaterx, goidsticks, gentleraen-at*arms, rallying round the throne and defending
n
GENTEEL QUARTERS,
339
w ith those swords w hich never knew defeat (and w ould surely, if
tried , secure v ic to r y ): these are sights and characters w hich every
m a n must lo o k upon with a thrill o f respectful awe, and count am ongst
th e glories o f his country. W hat lady that sees this w ill not confess
th a t she reads every one o f the drawing-room costumes, from M ajesty
d o w n to M iss A n n M aria S m ith ; and all the names o f the presenta
tio n s, from P rin ce B a ccab o ck sk y (b y the Russian am bassador) to
E n sig n Stubbs on his appointm ent ?
W e are bound to read these accounts. It is our pride, our duty
a s Britons. B ut though one m ay honour the respect o f the aristocracy
o f the land for the sovereign, y et there is no reason w hy those who
a re n ot o f the aristocracy should b e aping their b e tt e r s : and the
D u b lin C astle business has, I cannot but think, a very high-life-belowstairs look. T h e re is no aristocracy in D ublin. Its m agnates are
tradesm en— Sir F iat H austus, Sir B lacker D o sy, M r. Serjeant Blueb a g , o r Mr. C oun sellor O T e e . Brass plates are their titles o f honour,
a n d they live b y their boluses or their briefs. W h at call have these
w o rth y people to b e dangling and grinning at lord-lieutenants’ levdes,
a n d p layin g sham aristocracy before a sham sovereign ? O h, that old
h u m b u g o f a C astle ! It is the greatest sham o f all the shams in
Irelan d.
A lth o u gh the season m ay be said to have begun, for the Courts
a re opened, and the noblesse de la robe have assem bled, I do n ot think
th e gen teel quarters o f the town look inuch m ore cheerful. T h e y
still, for the m ost part, w ear their faded appearance and lean, half
p a y look. T h e re is the beggar still daw dling here and there. Sounds
o i carriages or footm en do not deaden the clin k o f the burly police
m a n ’s boot-heels. Y o u m ay see, possibly, a srautty-fa(?ed nursem aid
le a d in g out her little charges to w alk ; o r the observer m ay catch a
glim p se o f M ick the footm an lolling at the door, and grinning as he
ta lk s to som e dubious tradesman. M ick and J ohn are very different
characters externally and in w a rd ly ;— profound essays (involving the
histories o f the tw o countries for a thousand years) m ight be w ritten
rega rd in g M ick and John, and the m oral and political influences
w h ich h ave develop ed the flunkeys o f the two nations. T h e friend,
to o , w ith w hom M ick talks at the door is a puzzle to a Londoner. I
h a v e hardly ever entered a D u blin house w ithout m eeting with some
s u ch character on m y w ay in or o u t H e lo o ks too shabby for a dun,
a n d n o t exactly ragged enough for a beggar— a doubtful, lazy, dirty
540
family vassal— a guerilla footman, 1 think it is he w ho makes a
great noise, and whispering, and clattering, han ding in the dishei to
M ick from outside o f the dming-room doon WTien an Irishuun
com es to London be brings Erin with him ; and ten to one you will
find one o f these queer retainers about his place,
L on d o n one can o n ly take leave o f b y d e g r e e s : the great town
melts aw ay into suburbs, w hich soften, as it were, the parting between
the C o ck n e y and his darling birthplace. But you pass from some of
the stately fine D u blin streets straight into the co tm tiy.
After
N o. 46, E c d e s Street, for instance, potatoes begin at o n cc. You are
on a wide green plain, diversified b y occasional cabbage-plots, by
drying grounds white with chem ises, in the m idst o f which ihc
chartered wind is re ve llin g ; and though in the m ap som e fanciftil
engineer has laid dow n streets and squares, th ey exist b ut on paper;
nor, indeed, can there be any need o f them at present, in a quarter
where houses are not wanted so much as people to dw ell in ibc
same.
I f the gen teel portions o f the town look to the full as melancholy
as they did, the dow nright poverty ceases, I fear, to m ake so strong
an impression as it m ade four m onths ago. G o in g o ve r the same
ground again, places appear to have quite a different a s p e c t; anri.
with their strangeness, poverty and m isery have lost m uch o f their
terror. T h e people, though dirtier and m ore ragged, seem certainly
happier than those in London.
N ear to the K in g's Court, for instance (a noble buildin g, as are
alm ost all the public edifices o f the city), is a straggling green suburb,
containing num berless little shabby, patched, broken-w indow ed huis.
w'ith rickety gardens doited with rags that have been w ashed, and
children that have n o t ; and thronged with all sorts o f ragged
inhabitants.
N ear to the suburb in the towm, is a dingy old
m ysterious district, called Stoneybatter, w here sam e houses have
been allow ed to reach an old age, extraordinary in this country of
premature ruin, and lo o k as if they had been built som e six score
years since.
In these and the neighbouring tenem enls, n ot so old,
but equally ruinous and m ouldy, there is a sort o f verm in swarm of
h u m an ity ; dirty faces at all the dirty w in d o w s; children on all the
broken step s; smutty slipshod wom en clackin g and bu stlin g abouir
and old m en dawdling. W ell, only paint and prop th e tumbling
gates and huts in the suburb, and fan cy the Stoneybatterites clean.
NORTH D UBLIN UNION
341
a n d yo u w ould have rather a g a y and agreeable picture o f hum an
life— o f w ork-people and their fam ilies reposing after their labours.
T h e y are all happy, and sober, and kind-hearted,— they seem kind,
an d p lay w ith the children — the y o u n g w om en havin g a ga y
good-natured jo k e for the p a sser-b y ; the old seem ingly contented,
a n d buzzin g to one another. It is o n ly the costum e, as it were, that
has frightened the stranger, and m ade him fan cy that p eo p le so
ra gg ed must b e unhappy. O bservation grows used to the rags as
m uch as the p eop le do, and m y im pression o f the w alk through this
district, on a sunshiny, clear, autum n evening, is that o f a fete. I
am alm ost asham ed it should be so.
N e a r to Stoneybatter lies a group o f huge glo o m y edifices— an
ho sp ital, a penitentiary, a m ad-house, and a poor-house. I visited
th e latter o f these, the N o rth D u blin U nion-house, an enorm ous
establishm ent, w hich accom m odates two thousand beggars. L ik e all
th e p ublic institutions o f the country, it seem s to b e w ell con ducted ,
a n d is a vast, orderly, and clean ly place, w herein the prisoners are
^better clothed , b etter fed, and better housed than they can hop e to
b e w hen at liberty. W e were taken into all the lyards in due o r d e r :
th e schools and nursery for the ch ild ren ; the dining-room s, dayroom s, & c., o f the m en and w om en. E a ch division is so accom m o
d a ted , as also w ith a large court or ground to w alk and exercise in.
A m o n g the m en, there are ve ry few a b le -b o d ie d ; the m ost o f
th em , the keep er said, havin g gon e out for the harvest-tim e, or as
so o n as the potatoes cam e in. I f they g o out, they cann ot return
be fo re the expiration o f a m o n th : the guardians have been obliged
to establish this prohibition, lest the persons requiring re lie f should
g o in and out too frequently. T h e old m en w ere assem bled in
co n sid era b le num bers in a lo n g day-room that is com fortable and
w arm . Som e o f them were p ickin g oakum b y w ay o f em ploym ent,
b u t m ost o f them w ere p ast w o r k ; all such inm ates o f the house
a s are able-bodied b e in g o ccu p ied upon the prem ises. T h e ir h all
w as airy and as clean as brush and w ater co u ld m ake i t : the m en
e q u ally clean, and their gray ja c k e ts and S co tch caps stout and
w arm . T h e n ce >ve w ere led , with a sort o f satisfaction, b y the guardian,
to the kitchen — a large room , at the end o f w hich m ight b e seen
certain coppers, em itting, it m ust b e ow ned, a very faint inhospitable
sm ell. I t was F riday, and rice-m ilk is the food on that day, each
m an b e in g served w ith a pint-canful, o f w hich cans a great num ber
343
THE IRISH SK E TCH BOO K
stood sm oking upon stretchers— the platters were laid , each with
its portion o f salt, in the large clean dining-room hard by. “ l ^ k
at that lic e ," said the keep er, taking up a b i t ; “ try ii, sir, it's
deliciou s,” Vm sure I hope it is.
T h e old w om en's room was crow ded with, I should think, at leail
four hundred old ladies— n eat and nice, in white clo th e s and caps—
sitting dem urely on bench es, d o in g nothing for th e m ost p a r t ; but
som e em ployed, like the old m en, in fiddling w ith th e oakum.
“ T h e re ’s tobacco h ere," says the guardian, in a loud v o i c e ; “ who’s
sm oking to b acco ? ” “ Fait, and I w ish dere was so m e tabaocy
here,” says one old lady, “ and m y service to you, M r. Learvj and
I ho p e one o f the gentlem en has a sn u ffb o x , and a p in ch for a poor
old w om an.”
But w'e had no b o x e s ; and i f an y person w h o reads
this visit, go es to a poor-house or lunatic asylum , let him carry a
b o x , if for that d ay o n ly — a p inch is like D iv es’s droji o f crater to
those poor lim boed souls. Som e o f the poor old creatures began to
stand up aS w e cam e in^—
ca n ’t say h ow painful such an bonoiir
seem ed to me.
T h e re was a separate room for the able-bodied fem ales ; and the
p lace and courts were full o f stout, red-cheeked, b o u n cin g women.
I f the old ladies lo o k ed respectable, I cannot say the y o u n g ones
w'ere particularly g o o d -lo o k in g ; there were som e H o gartliian faces
am ongst them — sly, leering, and hideous. I fancied I could sec
o n ly too wqWw*hat these girls had been. Is it charitable or not to
hope that such bad faces could o n ly b elo n g to bad wom en ?
“ H ere, sir, is the nursery,” said the guide, flinging o jien the door
o f a lon g room. T h e re tnay liave been eighty babies in it. with as
m any nurses and m others. C lo se to the door sat one with a s twautiful
a face as I alm ost ever s a w : she had at her breast a v e ry sick ly and
p u n y child, and looked up, as w e entered, with a p air o f angelical
eyes, and a face that M r E astlake could p a in t ^ a face that had been
an gelical that i s ; for there w'as the snow still, as it were, b ut with the
footm ark on it. I asked her how' old she w as— she d id not know.
She co u ld not have been m ore than fifteen years, the p o or cliilcL She
said she had been a servant— a n d there was n o need o f a sk in g any
thing more al>out her story, I saw her grinning at one o f her com rades
as we went out o f the r o o m ; h er face did not lo o k a n g elica l th e a
A h , youn g m aster or old, youn g or old villain, w ho d id t h i s !— have
yo u not enough w ickedness o f yo u r
own to answ er for, th a t y o u must
FA R E W E LL TO DUBLIN.
343
tak e another’s sins upon yo u r sh o u ld e rs; and b e this w retched ch ild’s
sp on sor in crim e ? . . . .
B u t this chapter m ust b e m ade as short as p o ssib le : and so I w ill not
say h o w m uch prouder M r. L ea ry , the keep er, was o f his fat pigs than
o f his paupers— how he poin ted us out the burial-ground o f the fam ily
o f th e poor— their coffins w ere quite visible through the n iggardly
m ould ; and the children m ight peep at their fathers over the burialground-play-ground-wall— ^nor how we w en t to see the L in en H a ll o f
D u b lin — that huge, useless, lonely, decayed place, in the vast w in d y
solitu des o f w hich stands the sim pering statue o f G eorge I V ., poin ting
to som e bales o f shirting, o ver w hich he is supposed to extend his
augu st protection.
T h e cheers o f the rabble hailing the new L o rd M ayor w ere the
last sounds that I heard in D u blin : and I quitted the kin d friends I
h ad m ade there w ith the sincerest re g re t
A s for form ing “ an
op in io n o f Irelan d,” such as is o ccasion ally asked from a traveller on his
return— that is as difficult an opinion to form as to express ; and the
p u zzle w hich has p erplexed the gravest and wisest, m ay b e confessed
b y a hum ble w riter o f ligh t literature, w hose aim it o n ly was to look
at th e manners and the scenery o f the country, and w ho does n ot
ven tu re to m eddle w ith questions o f m ore serious import.
T o have “ an opinion about Irelan d ,” one must begin b y gettin g at
th e tru th ; and w here is it to be had in the co u n try? O r rather, there
a re tw o truths, the C a th o lic truth and the Protestant truth. T h e tw o
p arties do n ot see things w ith the sam e eyes. I recollect, for instance,
a C a th o lic gentlem an telling m e that the Prim ate had forty-three
th ousand five hundred a y e a r ; a Protestant clergym an ga ve m e,
ch a p te r and verse, the history o f a shameful perjury and m alversation
o f m o n ey on the part o f a C ath o lic priest; nor was one tale m ore true
th a n the other.
B ut b e lie f is m ade a party b u s in e s s ; and the
re ce iv in g o f the archbishop’s incom e would p robably not co n vin ce the
C a th o lic, any m ore than the clearest evidence to the contrary altered
th e Protestan t’s opinion. A s k about an e s t a te : you m ay b e sure
alm ost that p eo p le will m ake mis-statem ents, or volu nteer them if not
asked. A s k a cottager about his rent, or his landlord : yo u cann ot
trust him. I shall n ever forget the g lee with w hich a gentlem an in
M u n ster told m e how he had sent o ff M M . T o cq u ev ille and B eau
m on t “ w ith such a set o f stories.” In glis was seized, as I am told,
an d m ystified in the sam e w ay.
In the m idst o f all these truths^
is steadily advancing, nor nearl)
years since ; and let us hope th:
o f prosjîerity must generate (a
forbidden the existence in Irel
Protestant aristocracy and Cai
greatest
and
m ost
beneficial
independent to b e bullied b y p r
in quiet, and alik e indisposed to
m uch b e hoped from the gradua
an y legislative m ed d lin g? I t is t
rendered the squire so arrogant,
gogue so p o w e rfu l; and I think
that the existence o f spch a bo<
acquirem ent o f orderly freedom , tl
crow d, influenced b y a n y eloquenc
END OF “
th e
IR
NOTES OF A JOURNEY
CORNHILL
TO
GRAND
CAIRO,
BY WAY OF
L IS B O N , A T H E N S , C O N S T A N T IN O P L E , A N D J E R U S A L E M :
PERFORMED IN TH E STEAMERS OF THE PENINSULAR
AND ORIENTAL COMPANY.
NOTES OF A JOURNEY
FROM
CORNHILL
TO
GRAND
CAIRO,
BY W AY OF
L IS B O N , A T H E N S , C O N S T A N T IN O P L E , A N D JE R U S A L E M :
PERFORMED IN TH E STEAMERS OF THE PENINSULAR
NOTES OF A JOURNEY
CORNHILL
0
TO
GRAND
CAIRO,
BY W AY OF
L IS B O N , A T H E N S , C O N S T A N T IN O P L E , A N D JE R U S A L E M :
PERFORMED IN TH E STEAMERS OF TH E PENINSULAR
TO
CAPTAIN SAMUEL LEWIS,
OF THE
PENINSULAR AND ORIENTAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY’S SERVICE.
My
dear
A
L e w is ,
fter
a v oyage, during w hich the captain o f the ship h as d isplayed
u n com m on courage, seam anship, affability, or other go od qualities, grate
ful p a ssen g e rs often present him with a token o f th eir esteem , in the shape
3f
te a p o ts, tan kard s, trays, & c . o f p recious m etal.
A m o n g authors,
(low'cver, bullion is a m uch rarer com m odity th an paper, w h ereof I b e g
Kou to a ccep t a little in the shape o f this sm all volum e.
‘e w
It con tains a
n o tes o f a vo y ag e w'hich you r skill and kin dn ess rendered doubly
M e a s a n t; and o f w hich I d on ’t th in k there is an y recollection m ore agreex b le th an that it w as the occasion o f m a k in g you r friendship.
I f t h e n o b le c o m p a n y in w h o s e
s e r v ic e
i e e t a l o n e m a k e s t h e m a t h ir d - r a t e m a r it im e
x p p o i n t a fe w a d m i r a ls
y o u c o m m a n d (an d w h o se
p o w e r in
in t h e i r n a v y , I h o p e to
E u r o p e ) s h o u ld
h e a r t h a t y o u r f l a g is
a o is t e d o n b o a r d o n e o f th e g r a n d e s t o f th e ir s te a m e r s.
B u t , I tr u st, e v e n
t h e r e y o u w i ll n o t f o r g e t t h e “ I b e r i a ,” a n d t h e d e lig h t f u l M e d it e r r a n e a n
c r u i s e w e h a d in h e r in t h e A u t u m n o f 18 4 4 .
M o s t f a i t h f u ll y y o u r s .
M y dear L e w i s ,
W. M. THACKERAY.
London, December 24, 1845.
PREFACE.
O n the 20th o f A ugu st, 1844, the w riter o f this little b o o k w en t to
d in e a t the “
C lu b ,” quite unconscious o f the w onderful events
w h ich F ate had in store for him.
M r. W illiam was there, givin g a farew ell dinner to his friend,
M r. Jam es (now Sir Jam es).
T h e se two asked M r. T itm arsh to jo in
co m p a n y w ith them, and the conversation naturally fell upon the
to u r M r. Jam es was abou t to take.
T h e Peninsular and O riental
C o m p a n y had arranged an excursion in the M editerranean, b y w hich,
in th e space o f a couple o f months, as m any m en and cities were to
b e seen as U lysses surveyed and noted in ten years.
M alta, A th en s,
S m y rn a , C onstantinople, Jerusalem , C airo were to be visited, and
e v e ry b o d y was to b e b a ck in L o n d o n b y L o rd M ayor’s D ay.
T h e idea o f beh o ld in g these fam ous places inflam ed M r. T itm a rsh ’s m in d ; and the charm s o f such a jo u rn ey w ere eloquently
im p ressed upon him b y Mr. Jam es.
“ C o m e,” said that k in d and
h o sp ita b le gentiem an, “ and m ake one o f m y fam ily p a r ty ; in all
y o u r life you w ill never p robably have a chance again to see so m uch
in so short a time.
B a d e n .”
C on sider— it is as easy as a jo u rn ey to Paris or to
M r. T itm arsh considered all these th in g s; but also the
d ifficu lties o f the situ a tio n : he had but six-and-thirty hours to get
r e a d y for so portentous a journ ey— he had engagem ents at hom e—
fin a lly , co u ld he afford it ?
In spite o f these objection s, how ever,
w ith e ve ry glass o f claret the enthusiasm som ehow rose, and the diffi
cu ltie s vanished.
B u t w hen M r. Jam es, to crow n all, said he had no d oubt that his
frien d s, the D irectors o f the Peninsular and O riental C om p any,
PREFACE.
350
would m oke Mr. T itraarsh the present o f a berth for the voyage, all
1
objection s ceased on his p a r t : to break his o utstan din g engagemeolB |
— lo write letters to his am azed fam ily, stating that th e y w ere not to j
e xp ect him at dinner on Saturday fortnight, as he w ou ld b e at Jem-
J
salem on that day— to purchase eighteen shirts and la y in a sea stock ^
o f R ussia ducks ,— was the w ork o f four-and-twenty h o u r s ; and oo ^
the 22nd o f A ugust, the “ L a d y M ary W o o d " vras sailing from Soath-
\
am pton with the “ subject o f the present m em oir," q u ite astonished ^
I
to find him self one o f the passengers on board.
T h e se im portant statem ents are m ade p artly to co n v io ce some |
incredulous friends— who insist still that th e writer never w a i t a h m d
at all, and wrote the follow ing pages, out o f pure fan cy , in rettcesncnf
at P u tn e y ; but m ainly, to give him an opportunity o f thanking
}
\
j
D irectors o f the Com p any in question for a delightful excursicm.
It was one so easy, so charm m g, and
1 think profitable— it kavfS
!
such a store o f pleasant recollection s for after days— a n d creates«» f
m any n ew sources o f interest (a n ew spaper letter from B cyroot,
m [
M alta, or A lgiers, has tw ice the interest now that it h a d fo n n o ly ),—
that 1 can’t but recom m end all persons w ho h a ve tim e an d
m ake a sim ilar jo u rn e y — vacation idlers to extend th eir tiavcH llfiA
pursue i t : above all, y o u n g w ell-educated m en entering
this course, we will say, after that at c o lle g e ; and, h a v in g th eir
learning fresh in their m inds, see the livin g p eo p le a n d
and the actual asp ect o f N ature, alo^g th e fam ous
M e d ite ira n ea a
the
A JOURNEY
FROM
CORNHILL
TO
CH APTER
CAIRO.
I.
VIG O .
T he sun brought all the sick p eo p le out o f their berths this m orning,
an d th e indescribable m oans and noises w hich had been issuing from
b e h in d the fine p ain ted doors on each side o f the cabin happily ceased.
L o n g before sunrise, I had the good fortune to discover that it was
n o lo n g er n ecessary to m aintain the horizontal posture, and, the very
in stan t this truth was apparent, cam e on d eck, at two o ’c lo ck in the
m orn in g, to see a n oble full m oon sinking westward, and m illions o f
th e m ost brilliant stars shining overhead. T h e night was so serenely
p ure, that yo u saw them in m agnificent airy p ersp e ctiv e ; the blue
s k y around and o ver them , and other m ore distant orbs sparkling
a b o v e , till th ey glittered aw ay faintly into the im m easurable distance.
T h e ship w ent rollin g over a heavy, sweltering, calm sea. T h e b reeze
w as a warm and soft o n e ; quite different to the rigid air w e had left
beh in d us, tw o days since, o ff the Isle o f W ight.
T h e b ell k ep t
to llin g its h a lf hours, and the m ate exp lain ed the m ystery o f w atch
a n d dog-w atch.
T h e sight o f that n oble scene cured all the w oes and discom fitures
o f sea-sickness at once, and i f there were a n y n eed to com m unicate
such secrets to the public, one m ight tell o f m uch m ore go o d that
J52
A yO U R N EY FROM CORNHILL TO CAIRO.
the pleasant m orning-w atch effected ; but there arc a set o f emotions
about w hich a man had best be shy o f talk in g lig h tly ,— and the
feelings excited b y con tem platin g this vast, m agnificent, harmonious
N ature are am ong these.
T h e vieiv o f U inspires a delight and
ecstasy w hich is not o n ly hard to describe, b ut w hich has somethingsecret in it that a man should n ot utter loudly. H o p e , meiuoiy,
hum ility, tender yearn in gs towârds dear friends, a n d inexpressible
lo ve and reveren ce tow ards th e P o w er w'hlch created the infinite
universe blazin g a b ove eternally, and the vast ocean shining and
rolling aroun d— fill the heart w ith a solem n, hum ble happin ess, that
a person dw elling in a city has rarely occasion to en jo y. T liey ore
com ing aw ay from L o n d o n parties at this time : the d e a r little eyes arc
d o s e d in sleep un der m other’s wing. H o w far o ff c ity cares and
pleasures appear to b e ! how sm all and m ean they seem , dwindling
o u t o f sight before this m agnificent brightness o f N ature
But the
best thoughts o n ly grow and strengthen under it. H e a v e n shines
1
above, and the hum bled spirit lo o ks up reveren tly tow ards that
boundless aspect o f wusdom a n d b e a u ty
Y o u are at hom e, and with
all at rest there, h ow ever far aw ay they m ay b e ; and through the
distan ce the heart bro o ds over them , bright and w'akeful lik e yonder
jjeaceful stars overheacL
T h e d ay was as fine a n d calm as the n ig h t ; at s ev en bells*
suddenly a b ell began to to ll very m uch like that o f a country
church, and on go in g on d eck we found an aw ning raised, a desk
w ith a flag flung over it close to the com pass, and the ship’s company
and passengers assem bled there to hear the captain read the Service
in a m anly respectful voice- T his, too, was a n ovel a n d lou d u u g
sight to me. P e a k ed ridges o f purple m ountains rose to th e left of
the ship,— Finistcrre and the co ast o f C a llicia. T h e s k y a b o v e was
cloudless and s h in in g ; the va st dark ocean smiled p ea cefu lly round
about, and the ship went rollin g o ve r it, as the p eo p le wiUiin were
praising th e M a ker o f all.
In honour o f the day, it was ann oun ced tliat the p assen gers would
be regaled w ith cham pagne at d in n e r ; and a cco rd in gly iliat exhtk*
rating liquor w as served out in decent profusion, th e com pany
drinking the captain ’s health w ith the custom ary orations o f comph*
m ent and acknow ledgm ent. T h is feast w'as scarcely en d ed , w h en wc
VIGO.
353
fo u n d ourselves rounding the headlan d into V ig o Bay, passing a grim
a n d tall island o f ro ck y m ountains w hich lies in the centre o f the bay.
W h eth er it is that the sight o f land is alw ays w elcom e to w eary
m ariners, after the perils and ann oyan ces o f a vo yage o f three days,
o r w hether the p lace is in itself extraordinarily beautiful, need n ot b e
a r g u e d ; b ut I have seldom seen anythin g m pre charm ing than the
am ph ith eatre o f n oble hills into w hich the ship n ow cam e— all the
featu res o f the landscape b ein g lighted up with a w onderful clearness
o f air, w hich rarely adorns a view in our country. T h e sun had n ot
y e t set, but over th e tow n and lo fty ro ck y castle o f V ig o a great
g h o st o f a m oon was faintly visible, w hich blazed out brighter and
b rig h ter as the superior lum inary retired behind the purple m ountains
o f th e headland to rest.
B efore the general backgroun d o f w aving
h eigh ts w hich encom passed the bay, rose a secon d sem icircle o f
un dulatin g hills, as cheerful and green as the m ountains behind them
w ere gray and solem n.
Farm s and gardens, co n ven t towers, w hite
v illa g e s and churches, and buildings that no doubt were herm itages
o n c e , upon the sharp peaks o f the hills, shone brigh tly in the sun.
T h e sight w as deligh tfu lly cheerful, anim ated, and pleasing.
Presen tly the captain roared out the m agic w ords, “ Stop h e r ! ”
a n d the obed ien t vessel cam e to a stand-still, at som e three hundred
y a rd s from the little town, w ith its w hite houses clam bering up a
ro c k , defen ded b y the superior m ountain w hereon the castle stands.
N u m b ers o f people, arrayed in various brilliant colours o f red, w ere
stan d in g on the sand close b y the tum bling, shining, purple w a v e s :
a n d there w e beheld, for the first tim e, the royal red and yellow
stan d a rd o f Spain floating on its ow n ground, under the guardian
sh ip o f a light blue sentinel, w hose m usket glittered in the sun.
N um erou s boats w ere seen, in continently, to put o ff from the little
shore.
A n d n ow our attention was withdâ^^^l from the land to a sight
o f great splendour on board.
T h is was L ieutenant Bundy, the
gu ard ian o f her M ajesty’s m ails, w ho issued from his cabin in his
lo n g swallow-tailed co at w ith anch or b u tto n s ; his sabre clattering
b etw een his l e g s ; a m agnificent shirt-collar, o f several inches j n
height, rising round his good-hum oured sallow face ; and above it a
c o c k e d hat, that shone so, I thought it was m ade o f polished tin
(it m a y have been that or oilskin), handsom ely la ced vnth b la ck
w orsted, and ornam ented w ith a shining go ld cord.
A little squat
23
354
^ 7O U RN EY FROM CORNHILL TO CAIRO.
boat, row ed b y three ragged gallegos, cam e b o u n cin g u p to the ship.
In to this M r. B un dy and her M ajesty’s royal m ail em barked wilh
m uch m a je s ty ; and in the tw in klin g o f an eye, the ro y a l standndcrf
E n gland, abou t the size o f a pocket-h an dkerch ief,— and at the hem
o f the boat, the man-of-war’s pennant, b ein g a strip o f buntipg
con siderably under the value o f a farthing,— stream ed out.
" T h e y kn ow that flag, sir,” said the good-natured o ld tar, quite
solem nly, in the even in g afterw ard s: “ th ey respect it, sir.” The
authority o f her M ajesty’s lieuten an t on board th e steam er is staled
to be so trem endous, that he m ay order it to stop, to m ove, to go
larboard, starboard, or Avhat y o u Avnll; and the captain dare only
disobey him siw pcricuio.
It was agreed that a party o f us should land for hal/-an-hour, and
taste real Spanish chocolate on Spanish ground.
W e followed
L ieu ten an t Bundy, but hu m bly in the provid or’s b o a t ; that officer
go in g on shore to purchase fresh eggs, m ilk for tea (in p la ce o f the
slim y substitute o f w hipped y o lk o f egg w hich we had b e e n using
for our m orning and even in g m eals), and, if p ossible, oysters, for
w hich it is said th e ro ck s o f V ig o are famous.
I t was low tide, and the b o at could not get up to th e d ry shore.
H e n ce it was n ecessary to tak e advantage o f the offers o f sundry
gallegos, w ho rushed b arelegged into th e w ater, to lan d on their
shoulders.
T h e approved m ethod seem s to be, to sit upon one
shoulder only, ho ldin g on b y the porter’s whiskers ; and though sorac
o f our party were o f the tallest and fattest m en w h ereo f o u r race is
com posed, and their livin g sedans e xceed in gly m eagre and sm all, yet
all were landed w ithout a cciden t upon the jiiicj' sand, and forthwith
surrounded b y a host o f m endicants, scream ing, “ I say, s i r ! penny,
SPA N ISH TROOPS.
355
i r ! I say, E n glish 1 tam your a y s ! p e n n y ! ” in all vo ices, from
actreme y o u th to the m ost lousy and ven erable old age. W h en it is
a id th a t these beggars w ere as ragged as those o f Irelan d, and still
nore vo lu ble, the Irish traveller w ill b e able to form an op in ion o f
heir capabilities.
T h ro u g h this crow d w e passed up som e steep ro ck y steps,
hrough a little low gate, w here, in a little guard-house and barrack,
L few dirty little sentinels w ere keep in g a dirty little g u a r d ; and b y
ow-roofed, w hitew ashed houses, w ith balcon ies, and w om en in them ,
—th e very sam e w om en, w ith the very sam e head-clothes, and yellow
ans and eyes, at once sly and solem n, w hich M urillo painted,— ^by a
leat church into w hich w e took a p eep, and, finally, into the P la za
lei C onstitucion, or grand place o f the town, w hich m ay b e about as
)ig as that pleasing square. Pum p C ourt, T em p le . W e w ere taken
o an inn, o f w hich I forget the nam e, and w ere shown from one
h a m b e r and storey to another, till w e arrived at that apartm ent w here
he real Spanish chocolate was finally to b e served o u t A ll these
00ms w ere as clean as scrubbing and whitewash could m ake t h e m ;
rith sim ple F ren ch prints (with Spanish titles) on the w a lls ; a few
ick e ty half-finished articles o f furn iture; and, finally, an air o f
xtrem ely respectable poverty. A jo lly , black-eyed, yellow -shaw led
)u lcin e a con ducted us through the apartm ent, and p rovided us w ith
lie desired refreshm en t
Sounds o f clarions drew our eyes to the P la ce o f the C o n stitu tio n ;
n d, indeed, I had forgotten to say, that that m ajestic square w as
lied w ith m ilitary, w ith exceed in gly small firelocks, the men ludirou sly youn g an d dim inutive for the m ost part, in a uniform at once
heap and taw dry,— ^like those supplied to the warriors at A stle y ’s, or
x>m still hum bler theatrical w ardrobes : m deed, the w hole scene was
1st lik e that o f a little th e a tre ; the houses curiously small, with
rcades and balcon ies, out o f w hich lo o ked w om en apparently a
reat deal too b ig for the cham bers they in h ab ited ; the warriors
êre in gingham s, cottons, and t in s e l; the officers had huge epaulets
f sham silver la ce drooping o ver their bosom s, and looked as if
le y w ere attired at a very sm all expense. O n ly the general— the
iptain -general (P o o ch , th ey told us, was his n a m e : I kn ow n ot
ow ’tis w ritten in Spanish)— was w ell go t up, w ith a smart hat, a
;al feather, huge stars glittering on his p ortly chest, and tights and
oots o f the first order.
Presently, after a go o d deal o f trumpeting,
356
A JOURNEY FROM CORNHILL T O \C A IK
the little men m arched o ff the p lace , P o o c h a& d h i t i
in to the very inn in w hich w e w ere a w a itii^ our chooola£&
T h e n we had an opportunity o f seeing som e o f tbo tfivihans of
the town. T h ree or four ladies passed, with fan a n d .m iD ttc ; to
them cam e three or four dandies, dressed sm artly m tbe ItaBfik
fashion, with strong Jew ish physiognofnies.
T h e r e w aa one, ^
solem n lean fellow in b la ck , wdth his collars extrem eljr tamed over,
and holding before him a long ivory-tipped e b o n y canOt v i i o tripped
a lo n g the little ]riace with a solenm sm irk, which gave one mi
indescribable feeling o f the truth o f Gil B ias, and of those dd^ btfu l
bachelors and licen tiates w ho h ave appeared to us a ll in our d r a m a
In fact we were but haifan -h o ur in this little queer Spanish
town ; and it appeared like a dream, too, o r a little s h o w go t up to
am use us. Boom ! the gun fired at the end o f th e fim n y little enter*
t.iinm ent. T h e wom en and the balcon ies, th e b e g g a rs and the
w alking M un llos, P o o ch and the little soldiers in tin sel, disappeared
and were shut up in their b o x again. O n ce m ore w e w ere c a n ie d on
the beggars’ shoulders out o ff the shore, and w e found otttselvesiglfe
in the great stalwart roast*beef w o r ld ; th e stout B ritish a t a r a r
bearing out o f the bay, w hose purple waters had grow n mofre
T h e sun had set b y this tim e, and the m oon a b ove w as tw ice o s t>V
and bright as our degenerate moons are.
T h e p ro vid er had already returned w ith his fresh stoores,
B undy’s tin hat was p opped in to its case, and h e w a lk in g the
asA
of
the p acket denuded o f tails. A s w e w en t out o f the b a y , ocoined &
little incident with w hich the great incidents o f tb e d a y may b e sakl to
w ind up. W e saw before us a little vessel, t u t n b li^ a n d p lu n ^ o g
about in the dark waters o f th e b a y, w ith a bright lig h t b eai^ n g
from the most. I t m ade for us a t abou t a coup le o f m iles from tbe
tow n, and cam e close up, flouncing and b o b b in g in th e v e r y jaws of
the paddle, w hich looked as i f it w ould h ave seized a n d twirled
round that little boat and its light, and destroyed them S w e v e r and
ever. A ll the passengers, o f course, cam e crow ding to
sh ip ’s side
to lo o k at the bo ld little b o a t
;
“ I SAY ] ” how led a m a n ; “ I say I— a w ord I— I i l j f I Pasagero ’
P a sa g ero l Pasage-e-ero 1 ”
this time,
W e were two hundred
“ G o on,” says the captain^
ahead by
/ .V
AFLO AT.
357
“ Y o u m ay stop if you lik e ,” says L ieuten an t B undy, exerting his
trem en dous responsibility. I t is evident that the lieutenant has a soft
h eart, and felt for the p o or d evil in the b o at w ho was how ling so
p ite o u sly “ P a s a g e r o ! ”
B u t the captain w as resolute. H is du ty w as not to take the m an
n p . H e was evid en tly an irregular custom er— som e one trying to
e sca p e, possibly.
T h e lieutenant turned aw ay, but did n ot m ake any further hints.
T h e captain w as r ig h t ; but w e all felt som ehow disappointed, and
lo o k e d b a ck w istfully at the little boat, jum p ing up and down far
astern now ; the poor little light shining in vain, and the poor w retch
w ith in scream ing out in the m ost heart-rending accen ts a last faint
d esp erate “ I s a y ! Pasagero-o ! ”
W e all w ent dow n to tea rather m e la n c h o ly ; but the new m ilk,
in th e p lace o f that abom inable w hipped egg, revived us again ; and
so en d ed the great events o n b o a rd the “ L a d y M ary W o o d ” steam er,
o n th e 25th A ugu st, 1844.
3Sfi
A JO U RN EY FROAf CORNHILL TO CAIRO.
C H A P T E R
II.
LISBON— CADIZ,
A GREAT misfortune w hich bcfals a man w ho has b u t a single day to
slay in a town, is that fatal d u ly w hich superstition en tails upon him
o f visiting the c h ie f lions o f th e city in w hich he m ay hap p en to be.
Y o u m ust go through the cerem ony, h ow ever m uch y o u m ay sigh ro
avoid i t ; and how ever m uch you kn ow that the lions in o n e capital roar
very m uch like the lions in a n o th e r; that the churches are m ore or less
large and splendid, the p alaces pretty spacious, a ll th e w orld o ver;
and that there is scarcely a capital city in this E u ro p e b ut has its
pom pous bron ze statue or two o f som e periw igged , hook-nosed
em peror, in a R om an habit, w aving his bron ze b it o n o n his broadflanked brazen charger. W e o n ly saw these state old lions in Lisboa,
whose roar has long since ceased to frighten one. F irst w e went to
the C h urch o f St. R o ch , to see a famous p iece o f m osaic-w ork them.
It is a fam ous Avork o f art, and was b ought by I d o n ’t k n o w w h at king
for I d o n ’t know how m uch m oney.
A ll this inform ation m ay be
p erfectly relied on, though the fact is, w e d id n ot see th e mosak>
w ork : the sacristan, w ho guards it, was y e t in b ed ; and it Avas veiled
from our eyes in a side-chapel b y great dirty dam ask cu rtain s, which
co u ld n ot be rem oved, excep t w hen the sacristan’s to ilette was done,
and at the price o f a dollar. So we were spared this m o saic exhibi*
t io n ; and I think I alw ays feel relieved w hen such an e v e n t occtuv
feel I h ave don e m y duty in com ing to see the enorm ou s anim al;
if he is n ot at hom e, virtute melL
— we hat'e d o n e o u r best,
and m ortal can do no m ore.
1
In order to reach that church o f the forbidden m o saic, w e lud
sweated up several most steep a n d dusty streets— h o t a n d dusty,
although it was but nine o ’clo ck in the m orning. T h e n c e th e guide
con ducted us into som e little dust-powdered gard en s, in which
the p eo p le m ake b elieve to e n jo y the verdure, and w hen ce you look
over a great part o f the arid, dreary, stony city. T h e re w as n o smoke,
as in honest L on don , o n ly dust— dust over the gaun t houses and thtf
LISBON.
359
dismal y ello w strips o f gardens. M a n y churches w ere there, and
tall, half-baked-looking p ublic edifices, that had a dry, uncom fortable,
earthquaky lo o k, to m y idea.
T h e ground-floors o f the spacious
houses b y w h ich w e passed seem ed the co o lest and pleasantest
p ortions o f the m ansion. T h e y w ere cellars or warehouses, for the
m ost part, in w hich w hite-jacketed clerks sat sm okin g easy cigars.
T h e streets w ere p lastered w ith placards o f a bull-fight, to tak e p lace
the n ex t evenin g (there w as n o opera at that s e a so n ); but it was n ot
a rea l Spanish taurom achy— o n ly a theatrical com bat, as yo u could
see b y the picture in w hich the horsem an was cantering o ff at three
m iles an hour, the bull tripping after him w ith tips to his gen tle
horns. M ules interm inable, and alm ost all excellen tly sleek and
han dsom e, w ere p acin g dow n every s t r e e t : here and there, b ut later
in th e day, cam e clattering alon g a sm art rider on a pftincing
Sp an ish h o r s e ; and in the afternoon a few fam ilies m ight b e s e ^ in
th e queerest old-fashioned little carriages, drawn b y their jo lly m ules
a n d sw inging betw een, or rather before, enorm ous wheels.
T h e churches I saw were o f the florid periw ig architecture— I
m ean o f that pom pous, cauliflow er k in d o f ornam ent w hich was the
fashion in L o u is the F ifteen th ’s tim e, at w hich un lu ck y period a
b u ild in g m ania seem s to have seized upon m any o f the m onarchs o f
E u ro p e, and in nurferable p u b lic edifices were erected. It seem s to
m e to h ave been the period in all history w hen society was the least
natural, and perhaps the m ost dissolute ; and I h ave alw ays fan cied
that the blo ated artificial forms o f the architecture partake o f the
so cial disorganization o f the time. W h o can respect a sim pering
ninn y, grinning in a R o m a n dress and a full-bottom ed w ig, w ho is
m ade to pass o ff for a h e r o ; or a fat w om an in a hoop, and o f a m ost
d oubtful virtue, w ho leers at you as a g o d d e ss? In the p alaces
w hich w e saw, several court allegories w ere represented, w hich,
a trocious as they w ere in p o in t o f art, m ight y et serve to attract the
regard o f the m oralizer. T h e re were F aith, H o p e, and C h arity
restorin g D o n John to the arm s o f his h ap py P o r tu g a l: there w ere
V irtu e , V alo u r, and V ic to ry saluting D o n E m a n u e l: R ead in g, W riting,
a n d A rith m etic (for w hat I know , or som e m y th o lo gic nym phs)
d a n cin g before D o n M igu el— the picture is there still, at the A ju d a j
a n d ah m e ! w here is p oor M ig ? W ell, it is these state lies and
ce re m o n ie s that w e persist in go in g to s e e ; w hereas a m an w ou ld
h a v e a m uch better insight into Portuguese m anners, b y p lan tin g
3fo
A y o U R X E Y FROM CORNHILL TO MAIRO.
him self at a co m er, like yo n d er beggar^ and w a tc h is g
real trans
actions o f the day,
A drive to Belem is the regular route p ractised b y ih t tiavellcT
w ho has to m ake o n ly a short stay, a n d a cco rd in g ly a ed$ple of
carriages w ere provided for our party, and w e w ere d riv e n tbrough
the lon g m erry street o f Belem , p eop led b y e n d k s s strin gs o f mules,
— b y thousands o f gallegos, w ith w ater-bairels on d v i r sAsohldeil^ or
lounging b y the fountains to hire,— b y the la sb o n and Bekom otnnv
buses, with four m ules, jin glin g a lon g a t a go o d p a c e ; a n d it seemed
to m e to present a fa r m ore liv e ly and cheerfiij, t h o u ^ n o t i o regular,
an appearance as the stately quarters o f the c ity w e h a d le ft behind
us. T h e little shops w ere a t fiill w ork— th e m en bFown, w d ld re sse d ,
m anly, and h a n d so m e : so m uch cannot, I am sorry to sa y / t e said
for the ladies, o f whom , w ith every a n x iety to d o so; o u r p a r ty could
not p erceive a single good-lookin g sp cd n ie n a ll d a y
T l i e noble
blue T a g u s accom panies you a ll a lo n g th ese three m iles 0 f busy,
pleasant street, w hereof the c h ie f charm , as 1 t h o u ^ L
^
genuine busin ess— that appearance o f com fort w h ich th e
courl-architect n ever know s how to give.
h>ok of
T h e carriages (the canvas o n e with four seats a n d thfl^ttaise in
w hich I drove) w ere brought suddenly up to a g a te w ith Ih e royal
arm s over i t ; and here w e w ere introduced to as qu eer a n eathibiiion
35 the eye has often lo o k ed on. T h is w as the s t a t e c a m o g e house,
w here there is a m useum o f hu ge o ld tu m b le d o w n g ild e d coaches
o f the last century, ly in g here, m ouldy and dark, in a so rt o f limbo.
T h e go ld has vanished from th e great lum bering o ld w h eels and
p a n e ls ; the velvets are w ofu lly tarn ish ed W h en o n e th in k a o f the
patches and pow der that h ave sim pered o u t o f th o se plate-glass
^vindow's— the m itred bishops, the big-w igged m arshals, th e ôvcl^
hatted abb^s w hich th ey have b o m e iu their tim e— th e
mind
becom es affected in no ordinary degree,
S o tn e b u m a a m in d s heave
a sigh for the glories o f b ygo n e d a y s ; w hile others, considering
rather the lies and hum bug, the vice and servility, w h id i w e n t fmiued
and glazed and enshrined, creakin g a lon g in those o ld Juggernaut
cars, with fools w orshipping under th e w heels, con sole th e m selve s for
the d ecay o f institutions d ia t m ay h ave been ^ e n d U a n d cosUy, but
were ponderous, clum sy, slow , and unfit for d a ily tvcot.
The
guardian o f these defunct o ld carriages tells som e p ro d igio u s
concerning th e m ; he poin ted out one carriage that w as six hundred
A SCHOOL.
361
years old in his calen dar ; but any connoisseur in bricabrac can see it
w as bu ilt at Paris in the R e g e n t O rleans’ time.
H e n c e it is but a step to an institution in full life and vigour,—
a n o b le orphan-school for one thousand bo ys and girls, foun ded b y
D o n P ed ro, w ho gave up to its use the superb co n ven t o f Belem ,
w ith its splendid cloisters, vast airy dorm itories, and m agnificent
chu rch .
Som e O xford gentlem en w ou ld have w ept to see the
d esecrated edifice,— to think that the shaven polls and w hite gow ns
w ere banished from it to giv e p lace to a thousand children, w ho h ave
n o t even the clergy to instruct them . “ E v e ry lad here m ay ch o o se
his trad e,” our little inform ant said, w ho addressed us in b etter
F ren ch than an y o f our party spoke, w hose m anners w ere perfectly
gen tlem an like and respectful, and w hose clothes, though o f a com m on
co tto n stuff, w ere cut and w orn w ith a m ilitary neatness and precision.
A ll the children whom we rem arked w ere dressed with sim ilar neat
ness, and it was a pleasure to g o through their various room s for study,
w here som e were busy at m athem atics, som e at drawing, som e
attendin g a lecture on tailoring, while others were sitting at the feet
o f a professor o f the science o f shoem aking. A ll the garm ents o f
the establishm ent were m ade b y the p u p ils ; even the d e a f and
dum b were draw ing and reading, and the blind were, for the m ost
part, set to perform on m usical instruments, and go t up a con cert fo r
the visitors.
It was then we wished ourselves o f the num bers o f the
d e a f and dum b, for the poor fellow s m ade noises so horrible, that
even as b lin d beggars they could hardly get a livelihood in the
m usical way.
H e n c e w e w ere driven to the huge p alace o f N ecessidades, w hich
is b u t a w ing o f a buildin g that no K in g o f Portugal ought ever to b e
rich enough to com plete, and w hich, if perfect, m ight outvie th e
T o w e r o f Babel. T h e m ines o f Brazil m ust h ave been p roductive o f
g o ld and silver indeed w hen the founder im agined this enormous,
ed ifice. F ro m the elevation on w hich it stands it com m ands th e
n o b le st view s,— the city is spread before it, with its m any churches
a n d tow ers, and for m any m iles you see* the m agnificent T ag u s,
ro llin g b y b anks crow ned w ith trees and towers. But to arrive a t
th is enorm ous buildin g you have to clim b a steep suburb o f w retch ed
h u ts, m any o f them w ith dism al gardens o f dry, crack ed earth, w h ere
a few reed y sprouts o f Indian co m seem ed to b e the ch ie f cultivation,.
363
A JO U R N E Y FROM CORNHILL TO CAIRO, ^
and w hich were guarded b y hu ge plants o f splfcy aloes; On w fakh the
rags o f the proprietors o f the huts w ere sunning themselveaL The
terrace before the p alace w as sim ilarly en cro ach ed upcm b j these
w retched habitations. A few m illions judtcioUB]^ e x p e n d e d might
m ake o f this arid hill one o f the m ost m agnificent
m the
w o r ld ; and the p alace seem s to m e to e x c d for situ atk m a n y n>}'al
edifice I have ever seen. But the huts o f these sw aztning p o o r have
craw led up d o s e to its gates,'— th e superb w alls o f h ew n sto n e slop
all o f a sudden with a lath-and-plastcr AiUh; a n d ca p ita li; a n d hewn
stones for colum ns, still lying about o n th e deserted terrace, m ay tie
there for ages to com e, probably, and n ever take th eir p la c e s b y the
side o f their brethren in yo n d er tall b an krup t galleries. »^Tfce air of
this pure sky has little effect upon the edifices,— th e e d g e s o f the
stone lo o k as sharp as if th e builders bad ju st left th eir w o l k ; and
close to the grand entrance stands an outbuilding, part o f w b fr k tmy
have been burnt fifty years ago, but is in such c h e o fitl p r m m t i a n
that you m ight fan cy the fire had occurred yesterday. I t m to t have
b een an awful sight from this h ill to h a v e lo o k ed a t th e d i y spread
before it, and seen it reeling and sw aying in th e tim e o f t lw earth
quake. I thought it lo o k ed so h o t a n d shaky, that o n e a d g b t fancy
a re tu m o fth e fit. In several p laces still Femain gap s a n d ch a sim i and
ruins lie here and there as th ey crack ed a n d f e l l
A lth ough the p alace has not attained anythin g lik e its fitll growth,
yet what exists is quite b ig enough for th e m onarch o f s u c h a little
c o u n tr y ; and V ersailles or W indsor has n ot aparttnents m o re nobly
proportioned. T h e Q u een resides in the A ju d a, a b u ild in g o f much
less pretensions, o f w hich the yello w walls and beantifiil ga rd en s aie
seen betw een Belem and the city.
T h e N ecessidades axe o n ly used
for grand galas, receptions o f ambassadors^ a n d ce re tn o n ie k ^ f
In the throne-room is a huge throne, surm ounted by an enorm ou s gilt
crow n, than w hich 1 have never seen anythin g larger in th e fin est panto*
m im e at D rury L a n e ; b ut the effect o f this splendid ju fic e j l leftaencd
b y a shabby o ld Brussels carpet, alm ost th e o n ly o th e r article of
furniture in the apartm ent, and n ot quite large e3MlU{^ to co v e r its
spacious floor. T h e looifts o f K idderm in ster h a v e sup plied tlie web
w hich ornam ents the “ A m b assad o rs'W aitm g-R o oiu ,” and the ccilingr
arc painted with huge allegories in distempcTi which pretty w ell cone*
spond with the other furniture. O f a ll th e undtgnified o b jects in the
w orld, a p alace out at elbow s is surely th e m e a n est
S u c h p lace s ought
THE PALACE.
363
n o t to b e seen in adversity,— splendour is their d ecen cy,— and w hen
n o lo n ger a b le to m aintain it, they should sink to the lev el o f their
m eans, calm ly subside into m anufactories, or g o shabby in seclusion.
T h e re is a picture-gallery belon gin g to the p alace that is quite o f
a p ie ce w ith the furniture, w here are the m ythological pieces relative
to th e kings before allu ded to, and w here the E n glish visitor w ill see
som e astonishing pictures o f the D u k e o f W ellington, don e in a very
characteristic style o f Portuguese a r t T h e re is also a chapel, w hich
has b een decorated with m uch care and sum ptuousness o f ornam ent,
— the altar surm ounted b y a gh astly and horrible carved figure in the
taste o f the tim e w hen faith was strengthened b y the shrieks o f Jew s
on the rack, and enliven ed b y the roasting o f heretics. O th er such
frightful im ages m ay be seen in the churches o f the c i t y ; those w hich
w e saw were still rich, taw dry, and splendid to outward show, although
the F rench, as usual, had robbed their shrines o f their go ld and silver,
a n d the statues o f their jew els and crowns. B ut brass and tinsel lo o k
to th e visitor full as w ell at a little distance,— as doubtless Soult and
J u n o t thought, w hen they despoiled these p laces o f worship, like
F re n c h philosophers as they were.
A friend, w ith a classical turn o f m ind, was bent upon seeing the
a q u ed u ct, w hither w e w ent on a dism al excursion o f three hours, in
th e w orst carriages, o ver the m ost diabolical clattering roads, up and
d o w n dreary p arched hills, on w hich grew a few gray olive-trees and
m a n y aloes.
W h en w e arrived, the gate lead in g to tlie aquedu ct was
c l o s ^ , and we were entertained with a legen d o f som e respectable
ch a ra cter who had m ade a g o o d livelihood there for som e tim e past
la te ly , having a private k e y to this very aqueduct, and lyin g in w ait
th e re for unwary travellers like ourselves, w hom he pitched dow n the
a rch e s into the ravines below , and there robbed them at leisure. So
th a t all w e saw was the door and the tall arches o f the aqueduct, an d
b y the tim e w e returned to town it w as tim e to go on board the ship
a gain . I f the inn at w hich w e had sojourned was not o f the best
qu ality, the bill, at least, w ould have don e hon our to the first esta
blishm ent in L on don . W e all left the house o f entertainm ent jo yfu lly,
g la d to g e t out o f the sun-bm ut city and go home. Y o n d e r in the
steam er w as hom e, w ith its b la ck funnel and gilt portraiture o f “ L a d y
M a ry W o o d ” at the b o w s ; and e v e ry soul on board felt glad to
retu rn to the fiien d ly little vessel. B ut the authorities o f L isbon ,
h o w ever, are very suspicious o f the departing stranger, and w e w ere
364
A JO U RN EY FROM CORNHILL TO CAIRO,
m ade to lie an hour in the river before the Sanita boat, w here a
port is necessary to be procured before the tra veller can quit the
country.
Boat after boat, laden with priests a n d pcasautr>\ with
handsom e red-sashed gal legos cla d in brow n, and ill-favoured womca
cam e and got their perm its, and w ere off, as we la y bu m p in g up agaiiut
the old hull o f the Sanita boat: but the officers seem ed to tak e a delight
in keepin g us there bum ping, lo o ked at us quite ca lm ly o ve r tlic fihip^
sides, and sm oked their cigars ivithout the least attention to the piaytis
w hich we shrieked out for release;
I f w e were glad to g e t aw ay from L isbon , w c w ere q u ite as sony
to b e o bliged to quit C a d iz, w hich w e reached the n ex t night, aad
w'here w e were allow ed a co u p le o f hours’ leave to lan d and look
about* It seem ed as handsom e witlrin as it is stately w ith o u t; the
lo n g narrow streets o f an adm irable cleanlm ess, m a n y o f the tali
houses o f rich and n oble decorations, and all lo o kin g as i f the dty
ivere in full prosperity* 1 have seen no m ore cheerful and ariunakd
sight tlian the long street leadin g from the quay w h ere w e ivcrc
lan ded, and the m arket blazing in sunshine, p iled wuth fruit, fiAl), asd
poultry, under m any-coloured a w n in g s ; the tall wJrite houses with
their balcon ies and galleries shining round about, and th e sk y above
so blue that the best cobalt in a ll the paiut-box looks m u d d y and dim
in com parison to it. T h ere w'ere pictures for a yea r in that marlkC^
p lace— from the copper-coloured old hags and beggars w ho roared b>
you for the love o f heaven to g iv e m oney, to the sw nggering dandies
o f the m arket, with red sashes a n d tight clothes, lo o kin g on superbly,
with a hand on the hip and a cigar in the mouth* T h e s e must he
the c h ie f critics at the great bulJ-fight house yonder b y th e Alameda,
w ith its scanty trees and cool breezes facing tJie water.
N or arr
there any corks to the bulls' horns here as at Lisbon*
A sm all old
English guide w ho seized upon m e the m om ent m y fo ot w*as on shore,
had a store o f agreeable legen ds regarding the bulls, m en, a n d horses
that had been killed wnlli un boun ded profusion in the la te entertain*
m ents w hich have taken place.
It w'os so early an hour in the m orning that the shops were
scarcely opened as y e t ; the churches, how ever, stood open for the
faithful, and we m et scores o f w om en tripping tow ards tliem with
p retty feet, and sm art black m antillas, from w hich lo o k e d out fine
dark eyes and handsom e pale faces, very different from the coarse
CADIZ.
broAvn countenances w e had seen at L isbon .
365
A very handsom e
m o d e m cathedral, built b y the present bishop at his own charges,
w as the finest o f the public edifices w e s a w ; it was n ot, how ever,
n e a rly so m uch frequented as another little church, crow ded w ith
a lta rs and fantastic ornam ents, and lights and gilding, w here w e were
to ld to lo o k behind a huge iron grille, and beheld a b e v y o f b la ck
n u n s kneeling. M ost o f the g o o d ladies in the front ranks stopped
th e ir devotions, and lo o ked at the strangers with as m uch curiosity as
w e d irected at them through the glo o m y bars o f their chapel. T h e
m e n ’s con vents are closed ; that w hich contains the fam ous M urillos
lia s been turned into an a cadem y o f the fine a r t s ; but the E n glish
g u id e did not think the pictures w ere o f sufficient interest to detain
strangers, and so hurried us b a ck to the shore, and grum bled at o n ly
g e ttin g three shillings at parting for his trouble and his inform ation.
A n d so our residence in A ndalusia began and ended before breakfast,
a n d w e w ent on board and steam ed for G ibraltar, lookin g, as w e
p assed , at Join ville's b lack squadron, and the w hite houses o f
S t. M ary’s across the b ay, w ith the hills o f M edin a Sidonia and
G ra n a d a lying purple beyo n d them. T h e re ’s som ething even in
th o se nam es w hich is pleasant to write d o w n ; to h ave passed o n ly
tw o hours in C a d iz is som ething— to h ave seen real donnas w ith
c o m b and m antle— real caballeros w ith clo ak and cigar— real Spanish
b a rb e rs lathering out o f brass basins,— and to have heard guitars
u n d e r the balconies : there w as one that an old beggar was jan glin g
in th e m arket, whilst a huge leering fellow in bushy whiskers and a
fa d e d ve lvet dress cam e singing and jum p ing after our p arty,— ^not
s in g in g to a guitar, it is true, but im itating one capitally with his
v o ic e , and crack in g his fingers b y w ay o f castanets, and perform ing a
d a n c e such as F igaro or L ab la ch e m ight envy. H o w clear tlu ^ V
fe llo w ’s vo ice thrums on the ear even n o w ; and how bright and^p lea san t rem ains the recollection o f the fine city and the blue sea,
a n d the Spanish flags floating on the boats that d an ced over it,
a n d Join ville’s ban d beginn in g to p lay stirring m arches as w e puffed
o u t o f the bay.
T h e n ext stage was G ibraltar, w here w e w ere to change horses.
B e fo re sunset w e skirted alon g the dark savage m ountains o f the
A fr ic a n coast, and cam e to the R o c k ju st before gun-fire.
I t is the
v e r y im age o f an enorm ous lion, crou ched betw een the A tla n tic and
366
A JO U R N E Y FROM CORAH/LL TO CAIRO.
th e M editerranean, and set there to gu ard th e p assa ge for ils British
mistress.
T h e n ext British lion is M alta, four d ays further on in the
M idland Sea, and ready to sp rin g upon E gyp t o r p o u n ce upon Syrii,
or roar so as to be heard at M arseilles in case o f n eed.
T o the eyes o f the civilian the first-named o f tJicse fanwus
fortifications is b y far the m ost imposing.
T h e R o c k lo o b so
trem endous, that to ascen d it, even w ithout th e com plim en t o f shells
or shot, seem s a dreadful task— what w ould it b e w hen all those
m ysterious lines o f batteries w ere vom iting fire and b rim sto n e ; wh«i
all those dark guns that you see p o kin g tlieir grim head s o u t o f eve.7
im aginable cleft and zigzag should salute you w ith shot, b oth hot arul
cold ; and when, after tuggin g up the hideous p erpen d icular place,
you were to find regim ents o f British grenadiers
bayo n ets into your poor pan ting stom ach, and let
little breath left there ?
I t is a m arvel to think
m ount such places for a shilling— ensigns for five
re a d y to pluii£S
o u t artifidall)- tlie
th a t soldiers will
a n d ninepence—
a day : a cabm an w ould ask double th e m oney to go h a lf w ay I One
m eek ly reflects upon the above strange trutlis, lean in g o ve r the ship ^
side, and lo o kin g up the hu ge mountain, from the tow er nestled
the foot o f it to the thin flagstaff at the summit, up to w hich haw
been p iled th e m ost ingenious edifices for m urder C h ristian sdenct
ever adopted.
M y hobby-horse is a quiet beast, su ited for Park
riding, or a gen tle trot to P u tn ey a n d b a ck to a snug stable, and
plen ty o f feeds o f com :— it ca n ’t abide clim bing hills, a n d is not
all used to gunpow der. Som e m en ’s anim als are so sp irited that the
ve ry a]3pearance o f a stone-wall sets them jum ping a t i t ; regular
chargers o f hobbies, w hich snort and say— “ H a, h a !" at the mere
notion o f a batde.
(
367 )
C H A P T E R III.
THE “
lady
MARY WOOD.”
\
O u r w ee k ’s vo y a ge is n ow draw ing to a close.
W e h ave ju st
b e e n to lo o k at C a p e T rafalgar, shining w hite o ver th e finest blu e
sea. (W e, w ho were lookin g at T rafalgar Square o n ly the other d a y !)
T h e sight o f that cape m ust have disgusted Join ville and his fleet o f
steam ers, as they passed yesterd ay into C a d iz bay, and to-m orrow w ill
g iv e them a sight o f S t V in c e n t
O n e o f their steam -vessels has been lost off* the co a st o f A fi-ica ;
th e y w ere o bliged to b u m her, lest the M oors should take possession
o f her.
She w as a virgin vessel, ju st out o f Brest. P o o r innocent I
to d ie in the v e ry first m onth o f her union w ith the n oble w hiskered
god o f w ar!
W e B ritons on board the E n glish b o at received the new s o f the
“ G roen en lan d’s ” abrupt dem ise w ith grins o f satisfaction. It w as a
so rt o f national com plim ent, and cause o f agreeable congratulation.
“ T h e lu b b e r s !” w e s a id ; “ the clum sy hum bugs I there’s none but
B rito n s to rule the w a v e s !” and w e gave ourselves piratical airs, and
w en t dow n presently and w ere sick in our little b u g gy berths. It was
pleasan t, certainly, to laugh at Join ville’s adm iral’^ flag floating at his
forem ast, in yo n d er b la ck ship, w ith its tw o thundering great guns at
th e bow s and stem , its busy crew swarm ing on the d eck , and a crow d
o f obsequious shore-boats bustling round the vessel— and to sneer at
th e M o gad o r warrior, and vo w that w e E nglish, had we been inclined
to d o the business, w ould have perform ed it a great deal better.
N o w yesterday at L isb o n w e saw H .M .S . “ C aled o n ia.”
on
ThiSy
the contrary, inspired us w ith feelings o f respect an d awful
pleasure. T h e re she la y— the hu ge sea-castle— ^bearing the uncon
q u era b le flag o f our country.
She had b ut to open her jaw s, as it
w ere, and she m ight brin g a second earthquake on the city— batter it
in to kingdom -com e— with the A ju d a p alace and the N ecessidades,
th e churches, and the lean, dry, em pty streets, and D o n John,
trem en d o u s on horseback, in the m idst o f B la c k H o rse Square.
368
A yoURNEY FROM CORNUfLL TO CAIRO.
W h erever we looked we could see ihat enorm ous “ C aled o n ia," wth
h er flashing three lines o f guns. W e looked at th e little boats whidi
e ve r and anon cam e out o f this m onstcrj wath h u m ble w 'ondcf. There
w as the lieutenant w ho b o arded us at m idnight b efo re w e
anch or in the riv er: ten w hite-jacketed men p ullin g as one, swept
a lo n g with the barge, gig, boat, curricle, or coach-and-six, wuth whid]
he cam e up to us. 'We exam ined h im — his red ivhiîkers— his collars
turned dow n — his duck trousers, his bullion epaulei& “ Walh aiae
AVith the sam e reverential feelin g w'e exam ined th e seam en— the
youn g gentlem an in the bow's o f the b o a t— the h an d so m e young
officers o f m arines w e m et sauntering in the towm n ex t day— the
Sco tcli surgeon w lio boarded us as we w eighed a n ch o r— e ve ry man,
dow'n to the broken-nosed m ariner who was drunk in a w'ine-house,
and had “ C a led o n ia ” w ritten on his h a t AVhereas at th e Frenchmen
we looked with undisguised co n te m p t W c were reatly to burst with
laughter as w*e passed the P rin ce's vessel— there was a little French
b o y in a F rench b o a t alongside clean in g it, and tw irling abou t a littir
French m op— w’e thought it the m ost com ical, co n te m p tib le French
b o y , mop, boat, steamer, p rin ce— Psh a 1 it is o f this wretdicd
vapouring stuflf that false patriotism is made.
I wTitc this as a
sort o f hom ily kpropos o f the day, and C a p e T ra falg ar, o ff which
sve lie.
AVhat business h ave 1 to strut the d eck , and
clap my
w ings, and cry “ Cock-a-doodie-doo ” over it ?
Som e compiitriot*
a re at that w'Ork even now.
AVe lia'i'e lost one b y one all our jo v ia l com pany. T h e r e were ihr
five O porto wine-m erchants— all hearty English g e n tle m en — gone to
their w'ine-butts, and their red-legged partridges, and th eir duels at
OportOn
It appears that these gallant Britons fight e v e ry mommg
am ong them selves, and give the benighted people am ong whom they
live an opportunity to adm ire the spirit national. T h e re is th e brave,
honest m ajor, wdth his wooden le g — the kindest and sim plest o f Irish
men : he has em braced his cliildreHj and re n ew ed his little invalid
garrison o f fifteen men, in the fort w'hich he com m ands a t Belem, by
this tim e, and, I have no doubt, played to every soul o f them the
tw elve times o f his m usical-box.
It was pleasant to sec him w'ith
that m usical-box— how p leased he ivound it up after dinuLT— hoff
h appily he listened to the little clin kin g tunes as th ey g a llo p e d , dinj§*
dong, after each other,
a good-natured man.
A man w ho carries a m u sical'b o x is
TRAVELLING FRIENDS.
369
T h e n there was his G race, or his Grandeur, the A rch bish op o f
B eyro u th (in the parts o f the infidels), his H olin ess’s N u n cio to the
c o u rt o f her M o st F aithfu l M ajesty, and w ho m ingled am ong us like
a n y sim ple m ortal,— excep t that he had an extra sm iling courtesy,
w h ich sim ple m ortals do n ot alw ays p o s s e s s ; and w hen yo u passed
h im as such, and puffed yo u r cigar in his face, to o k o ff his hat w ith a
g rin o f such prodigious raptufe, as to lead yo u to suppose that the
m o st d d icio u s p rivilege o f his w hole life was that perm ission to lo o k
a t the tip o f yo u r nose or o f yo u r cigar. W ith this m ost reverend
p relate was his G race’s brother and chaplain— a ve ry greasy and goodn atu red ecclesiastic, who, from his physiognom y, I w ould have
im agin ed to b e a dignitary o f the Israelitish rather than the R o m ish
ch u rch — as profuse in sm iling courtesy as his Lordship o f B eyrouth.
T h e s e tw o had a liieek little secretary betw een them, and a tall
F re n c h co o k and valet, w ho, at m eal times, m ight b e seen busy a b o u t
th e cabin w here their reverences lay. T h e y were on their b acks fo r
th e greater part o f the vo yage ; their yellow countenances w ere n o t
o n ly unshaven, but, to ju d g e from appearances, unwashed.
They
a te in p riv a te ; and it was o n ly o f evenings, as the sun w as setting
o v e r the western w ave, and, com forted b y the dinner, the cabinp assen gers assem bled on the quarter-deck, that we saw the dark faces
o f th e reverend gentlem en am ong us for a while.
T h e y sank d ark ly
in to their berths w hen the stew ard’s bell tolled for tea.
A t L isbon , w here w e cam e to anchor a t m idnight, a special b oat
c a m e off, w h ereo f the crew exhibited every tolên o f reverence for the
a m bassad o r o f the am bassador o f heaven, and carried him o ff from
o u r com pany. T h is abrupt departure in the darkness disappointed
so m e o f us, w ho had prom ised ourselves the pleasure o f seeing his
G ra n d eu r depart in state in the m orning, shaved, clean, and in full
p o n tificals, the tripping little secretary sw inging an incense-pot before
h im , and the greasy chaplain bearing his crosier.
N e x t d ay w e had another bishop, w ho occup ied the very sam e
b e rth his G ra ce o f B eyrouth had quitted— was sick in the very sam e
w a y — so m uch so that this cabin o f the “ I ^ d y M ary W ood ” is tob e christened “ the bishop’s b e r th ” h e n cefo rth ; and a han dsom e
m itre is to b e pain ted on the basin.
B ishop N o . 2 w as a v e ry stout, soft, kind-looking old gentleman,,
in a square cap, with a handsom e tassel o f green and go ld round h is
p o rtly breast and b ack.
H e w as dressed in b la ck robes and tight
24
370
A JO URN EY FROM CORNHILL TO CAIRO.
we carried him from Lisbon tO A e Side
the meek old gentlem an was tbe d n tf
purple s to c k in g s : and
flat coast o f F aro, o f w hich
pastor.
an
from our anchoiage in tbe T ^ a i^
in to the episcopal berth. AU ’ frn l
n ight there was a go o d smart b r e e z e ; it blew fresh a ll th e next d i^ i
as w e w ent jum p ing over the blue bright sea ; and there was no wgt
o f his lordship the bishop until we were opposite the p n tp k UDs of
A lgarve, w hich la y som e ten m iles distant,— a yellow sunny diOR
stretching flat before them , w hose long sandy flats and sillageB we
could see w ith our telescope from the steamer.
P resen tly a little vessel, w ith a huge shining lateen saS, aad
bearing the blue and w hite Portuguese flag, was seen pla yin g a sort
o f leap-frog on the jo lly waves, jum ping over them , and ducking
dow n as m erry as co u ld be.
lliis little boat came tow ards die
steam er as quick as ever she could ju m p ; and C aptain Cooper
roaring out, “ Stop h e r ! ” to “ Lady M ary W ood,” h e r la d y ih ^
paddles suddenly ceased twirling, and news was carried to tb e good
bishop that his bo at was alm ost alongside, and tha t h is bo or w is
W e had n ot b een h a lf
hour
w hen his lordship dived dow n
com e.
to see the poor o ld firt gendehH^
as the boat now came np^ and her
energy, and gesticulation la id h a h f
le t dow n ; his loid d iip ^ft \
“ Edinburgh R eview ,” )
boat, along w ith his ow n ]
rides postilion on one o f dto
bishop’s fat m ules at F aro. T h e blue and yellow dom estio weal
d o w n the steps into the bo at. Then came the bishop^s to m ; ba t ha
couldn ’t do it for a lo n g wliile. H e went from one paaae ty r la
another, sad ly shaking them by the hand, often taking leave and
seem ing loth to depart, until Captain Cooper, in a stem b u t
tone, touched him on the shoulder, and said, 1 know n o t w ith whaf
correctn ess, b ein g ignorant o f the Spanish language, “ Seftor
Sefior ’B is p o ! ” on w hich sum m ons the poor old man, loo kin g raedd!^
round him once m ore, put his square cap under his arm , tucked tp
his long b la ck p etticoats, so as to show his purple stoduQgs and jo ^ r
fat calves, and w ent trem bling down the steps towards tbe b o a t Ib a
go o d old m an ! 1 w ish I had had a shake o f that trem U iB g po^BT
I t was rather an affecting sight
lo o kin g w istfully o ver the w ater
eight seam en, w ith great noise,
the steamer. T h e steam er steps w ere
in blue and yello w livery, (like the
o v e r the episcopal luggage in to the
and the jack-boots with w hich he
THE M EEK LIEUTENANT.
371
h an d som eh ow before he w en t upon his sea m artyrdom . I felt a lo ve
for that soft-hearted o ld Christian. A h ! let us hope his go vem a n te
tu ck e d him co m fo rtably in b e d w hen he go t to F aro that night, and
m a d e him a w arm gruel and put his feet in warm water. T h e m en
clu n g around him , and alm ost kissed him as they p opped him in to the
b o a t, b u t he d id n ot heed their caresses.
A w a y w ent th e boat
scu d d in g m adly before the w ind.
B an g ! another lateen-sailed boat
in th e distan ce fired a gun in his h o n o u r; but the w ind was blow ing
a w a y from the shore, and w ho know s w hen that m eek bishop go t
h o m e to his gruel J
I thin k these w ere the n otables o f our party. I w ill n ot m ention
th e laughin g, o glin g la d y o f C a d iz, w hose manners, I very m uch r ^ e t
t o say, w ere a great deal too live ly for m y sense o f p ro p riety; n or
th o se fair sufferers, her com panions, w ho la y on the d e ck w ith sickly,
sm ilin g , fem ale re sig n a tio n : n or the heroic children, w ho n o sooner
a te b iscu it than th ey w ere ill, and no sooner w ere ill than they began
e a tin g biscu it a g a in : but ju st allu de to one other m artyr, the kin d
lieu te n a n t in charge o f the m ails, and w ho bore his cross w ith w hat I
c a n ’t b u t thin k a ve ry touchin g and n oble resignation.
T h e r e ’s a certain sort o f man w hose doom in the w orld is disap
p o in tm e n t,—rwhp excels in it,— and whose luckless trium phs in his
m e e k career o f life, I h ave often thought, m ust b e regarded b y th e
k in d eyes ab ove w ith as m uch favour as the splendid successes and
ach iev em en ts o f coarser and m ore prosperous men. A s I sat with
th e lieu ten an t upon d eck , his telescope laid over his lean legs, and he
lo o k in g at the sunset w ith a pleased, w ithered old face, he gave m e a
little acco u n t o f his history. I take it he is in now ise disinclined to
t a lk ajx)ut it, sim ple as it i s : he has been seven-and-thirty years in
th e n avy, b ein g som ew hat m ore mature in the service than L ieutenant
P e e l, R ear-A dm iral P rin ce d e Joinville, and other com m anders w ho
n e e d n o t b e m entioned. H e is a very w ell-educated man, and reads
p ro d igio u sly,— travels, histories, lives o f em inent w orthies and heroes,
in his sim ple way.. H e is n ot in the least angry at his w ant o f lu ck in
t h e profession., “ W ere I a b o y to-nm irow,” h e said, “ I w ould begin
it a g a in ; an d w hen I see m y schoolfellows^ and how they h ave g o t
o n in life, i f som e are b etter o ff than I am, I find m any are worse, and
h a v e n o ca ll to b e disccmtezated.”
So h e carries her Majest)r’s m ails
m e e k ly through this.wQrld, w aits upon porbadm irals and captains in
L et the m otive excuse the dec
noble character. W h y shoiik
w ho win in this vvorld, as we
write a novel, our great, stupi(
to m a n y the hero to a fortun
is a lord b y right.
O blu
yet I w ould like to fan cy sc
peaceful cloudland, w here m;
find the yards o f his ship mar
firing an enorm ous salute (onl>
o f pow der), and he b e saluted
Sir Joseph— ây, or L ord Visc(
above the sun.
I think this is a sufficient,
w orthies on board the “ L a d y
on board— ît seem ed a year, b y
quite as a hom e. W e felt for tl
active, careful, ready o f captain:
p rovider, w ho p rovided for us
rosity, a gen ial gratitude ; and
serving the banquet, sym pathiz
sible sentim ent o f regard and g<
m any knots we ran, are all r
lo g : and as for w hat ships we
gunnage, tonnage, their natioi
SH A K E HANDS.
373
w h o used (with a touching affection) to send us lo cks o f his hair in
th e soup. A n d so, w hile our feelings and recollections are warm,
le t us shake hands w ith this kn ot o f go o d fellows, com fortably
flo atin g about in their little b o x o f w ood and iron, across C h an nel,
B is c a y B ay, and the A tlan tic, from Southam pton W ater to G ibraltar
Straits.
GI
S u p p o s e all the nations o f the
represent them at \\\apping or 1
own national signboard and la
and your im agination m ay figure
th e o n ly part o f the tow n, I b
street at .all, the rem aining hbu
such as B om b L an e, B attery
M ain Street the Jew s predom ina
“ J o lly Sailor,” or the brave “ E
our nation are drinkin g British
1
1
1
“ G arryow en ” or “ T h e L ass I
flaring lattices o f the Spanish ven
th e jin g le and m oan o f Spanish
sight a t even in g this thronged s
difierent costum es, bustling to ai
la m p s ; swarthy M oors, in white
sm ugglers in tufted liats, w ith {
h e a d s ; fuddled seam en from m e
G a llid a n or G e n o e s e ; and at ever
o f soldiers tram ping to relieve gu2
posts in the town.
Som e o f our p arty w ent to a S
o r rom antic p lace o f residen ce th
ch o ice o f
CLUB-HOUSE GOSSIP.
375
W h en officers w ore pigtails, and in the tim e o f G overn or O ’H ara, it
m ay h ave been a handsom e p l a c e ; b ut it is m ouldy and decrepit
n o w ; and though his E x celle n cy , M r. Bulw er, w as livin g there, and
m a d e no com plaints that I heard of, other less distinguished persons
thought th ey had reason to grum ble.
In d eed , w hat is travelling
m ade o f? A t least h a lf its pleasures and incidents com e out o f in n s ;
a n d o f them the tourist can sp eak w ith m uch m ore truth and vivacity
th a n o f historical recollection s com piled out o f histories, or filched
o u t o f handbooks.
B u t to speak o f the b est inn in a p lace needs
n o a p o lo g y ; that, at least, is useful in fo rm atio n ; as e very person
in ten d in g to visit G ibraltar cannot h ave seen the flea-bitten coun te
n an ces o f our com panions, w ho fled from their Spanish ven ta to take
refu ge at the club the m orning after our arrival, they m ay surely b e
than k fu l for b ein g directed to the b est house o f accom m odation in
o n e o f the m ost unrom antic, un com fortable, and prosaic o f towns.
I f one h ad a right to break the sacred confidence o f the
m ah o gan y, I co u ld entertain yo u w ith m any queer stories o f G ibraltar
life, gathered from the lips o f the gentlem en w ho en jo yed them selves
ro u n d the d in gy tablecloth o f the club-house coffee-room , richly
d e co ra te d w ith co ld gravy and spilt beer. I heard there the very
n a m e s o f the gentlem en w ho w rote the fam ous letters from the
“ W arsp ite ” regarding the F ren ch proceedings at M o g a d o r ; and m et
sev eral refugee Jew s from that place, w ho said that th ey w ere m uch
m o re afiaid o f the K a b y le s w ithout the city than o f the guns o f the
F re n c h squadron, o f w hich they seem ed to m ake rather lig h t
I heard the last odds on the ensuing m atch betw een C aptain Sm ith’s
b . g. B olter, and C ap tain Brow n’s ch. c. R o a r e r : how the gun-room
o f h er M ajesty’s ship “ P u rgatory ” had “ co b b e d ” a tradesm an o f the
to w n , and o f the row in con sequence.
I heard capital stories o f the
w a y in w hich W ilkin s had escap ed the guard, and T h o m p son had
b e e n lo ck ed up am ong the m osquitoes for b ein g out after ten w ithout
th e lantern.
I heard how the go vern o r w as an o l d
, b u t to say
w h at, w ould ^be breakin g a c o n fid e n ce ; o n ly this m ay b e divulged,
th a t the epithet w as exceed in gly com plim entary to Sir R o b e rt
W ilson .
A ll the w hile these conversations were go in g on, a strange
scen e o f noise and bustle w as passing in the m arket-place, in front o f
th e w indow , w here M oors, Jew s, Spaniards, soldiers w ere thronging
in the s u n ; and a ragged fat fellow , m ounted on a tobacco-barrel,
w ith liis hat co ck e d on his ear, w as holdin g an auction, and roaring
cii iiiiiialion o f the ParthciK
Spanisli town are gone, or i
m arked so tliat you w ould neve
Y o u w alk through narrow whii
names as are before mentione
either side: small Newgate-like
which you may see the sergeant
windows of the officers’ quarters
smoking his cigar, or Lieutenant
away the wear)' hours of garrison i
more persons in the garrison libr.
room, and an admirable collectiori
In spite of the scanty herba^
Alameda is a beautiful walk ; of )
laboriously cared for as the tremc
on either side. The vast Rock rise;
works of defence, and Gibraltar B
which from the terraces immense
surrounded by plantations of cann«
sufficient, one would think, to blow
horticultural and military mixture
there temples, rustic summer-seats
garden, but you are sure to see a
among the flower-pots: and amidsi
the green petticoat and scarlet coat
are seen winding up the hill, and b
plantations ; awkward squads
^
A LL 'S WELL,"
yj7
d a rk to see the dust on the dried le a v e s ; the cannon-balls d o n ot
in tru d e too m uch, but have subsided into the s h a d e ; the aw kw ard
sq u a d s are in b e d ; even the loungers are gon e, the fan-flirting
S p an ish ladies, the sallow black-eyed children, and the trim whiteja c k e te d dandies.
A fife is heard from som e craft at roost on the
q u ie t w aters som ew here ; or a faint cheer from yonder b la ck steam er
a t th e M o le, w hich is abou t to set out on som e night expedition. Y o u
fo rg e t tliat the town is at all lik e W apping, and deliver yo u rself up
e n tire ly to ro m a n ce ; the sentries lo o k n oble p acing there, silent in
th e m oonlight, and San dy’s vo ice is quite m usical as he challen ges
w ith a “ W h o goes there ? ”
“ A ll’s W ell ” is very pleasant w hen sung decen tly in tune, and
in sp ires n oble and p oetic ideas o f duty, courage, and d a n g e r : but
w h en you hear it shouted all the night through, accom pan ied b y a
cla p p in g o f m uskets in a tim e o f profound p eace, the sentinel’s cry
b e co m e s no m ore rom antic to the hearer than it is to the sandy
Con naught-m an or the barelegged H ighlan der w ho delivers it.
I t is
b e s t to read abou t wars com fortably in H a rry L orrequer or Scott's
n o v e ls , in w hich kn ights shout their war-cries, and jo via l Irish
ba yo n eteers hurrah, w ithout deprivin g you o f any blessed rest. M en
o f a different w ay o f thinking, how'ever, can suit them selves perfectly
a t G ib ra lta r; w here there is m arching and counter-m arching, chal
le n g in g and relieving guard all the night through.
A n d n ot here in
C o m m e rcia l Square alone, but all over the huge R o c k in the dark
n e s s — all through the m ysterious zig-zags, and round the dark cannon
b a ll pyram ids, and alon g the vast rock-galleries, and up to the
to p m o st flagstaff, where the sentry can lo o k out over two seas, poor
fello w s are m arching and clappin g m uskets, and cryin g “ A ll’s w ell,”
d ressed in cap and feather, in p lace o f hon est nightcaps best befitting
th e d ecen t hours o f sleep.
A ll these m artial noises three o f us heard to the utm ost advantage,
ly in g on iron bedsteads at the tim e in a crack ed old room on the
ground-floor, the open w indow s o f w hich lo o ked into the square.
N o spot co u ld b e m ore favourably selected for w atching the hum ours
o f a garrison-town b y night.
A b o u t m idnight, the door hard b y us
w as visited b y a p arty o f youn g officers, w ho havin g had quite as
m u ch drink as was g o o d for them, were naturally inclined for m o r e ;
a n d w hen w e rem onstrated through the w indow s, one o f them in a
y o u n g tipsy vo ice asked after our m others, and finally reeled aw ay.
............. . - x y * L H C
Sir R obert "Wilson, his nose
caj) and tlie huge key (you
portrait o f L ord llea th field )
If I entertain you with
because I am more familiar w
fortifications: as far as I c^n
great British depot for smuggl
vessels lying in the harbour,
smugglers; all those smart ,
smugglers, and run tobaccos
respected merchants of the \
Spanish revenue vessel was sh
guns of the fort, for neglecting
was in chase of a smuggler;
Britain proclaims war to custo:
Perhaps ere a very long da;
towards the world, which Gibr
the last war in which we sha
war. For once establish ra
through Europe, and what is
very little then under what 1
and ambassadors may enjoy a
to the rank of peaceful consta
bavonptc
--------
A RELEASE.
379
I am afraid I thought it w as rather a release, w hen, havin g m ade
u p o u r m inds to exam ine the R o c k in detail and view the m agnificent
e xca va tio n s an d galleries, the adm iration o f all m ilitary m en, and the
terro r o f an y enem ies w ho m ay atta ck the fortress, w e received orders
t o em b ark forthw ith in the “ T a g u s,” w hich w as to carry us to M alta
a n d C onstantinople.
So w e to o k leave o f this fam ous R o c k — this
g r e a t blunderbuss— ^which w e seized out o f the hands o f the natural
o w n ers a hundred and forty years ago, and w hich w e have k e p t ever
s in c e trem endously loaded and clean ed and ready for use.
T o seize
a n d have it is doubtless a gallan t th in g ; it is lik e one o f those tests o f
co u ra g e w hich one reads o f in the chivalrous rom ances, w hen, for
in stan ce. Sir H u o n o f B ord eaux is called upon to p ro ve his kn igh t
h o o d b y go in g to B ab ylo n and p ulling out the Sultan’s beard and
fro n t teeth in the m idst o f his court there.
But, after all, ju stice
m u st confess it w as rather hard on the poor Sultan.
I f w e had
th e Spaniards established at L a n d ’s’ E n d , w ith im pregnable Spanish
fortifications on S t M ich ael’s M ount, w e should perhaps com e
t o the sam e conclusion.
M ean w h ile let us hope, during this
lo n g p eriod o f deprivation, the Sultan o f Spain is reco n ciled to
th e loss o f his front teeth and bristling whiskers— let us even try to
th in k that he is better w ithout them.
A t all events, right or w rong,
w h ate ve r m ay b e our title to the property, there is no Englishm an but
m u st thin k w ith pride o f the m anner in w hich his countrym en h ave
k e p t it, and o f the courage, endurance, and sense o f d u ty with w hich
s to u t o ld E lio t an d his com panions resisted Crillion and the Spanish
b a tterin g ships and his fifty thousand men. T h e re seem s to be som e
th in g m ore n o b le in the success o f a gallan t resistance than o f an
a tta c k , how ever brave.
A fte r failing in his attack on the fort, th e
F re n c h G en eral visited the E n glish C om m an der w ho h ad foiled him ,
a n d parted from him and his garrison in p erfect p oliteness and g o o d
hum our. T h e E n glish troops, D rinkw ater says, gave him thundering
ch e ers as h e w en t aw ay, and the F ren ch in return com plim ented us
o n our gallantry, an d lauded the hum anity o f our people. I f w e are
to g o on m urdering e ach other in the old-fashioned w ay, w hat a p ity
it is that our battles can n ot en d in the old-fashioned w ay too.
O n e o f our fellow -travellers, w ho h ad w ritten a b o o k , and had
suffered con siderably from sea-sickness during our passage alon g the
co a sts o f F ran ce an d Spain, con soled us all b y saying that the ve ry
m in ute w e g o t into the M editerranean w e m ight con sider ourselves
apprehcnsior
Mr. 'r. V, (.’ookc.
But wlicn, in s{)itc
book, wc found ourscl
Biscay, or o ff the ston
author in (|ucstion as
with him for leading u.
part of the matter, too
cloudless, the air balmy,
if we had no right to
waves that frisked round
gciasma (this is one of m
manage to introduce th
seemed to be enjoying,
our expense. Here is
September: —“ All alter
requisition. Wind hard
gallre? AVriting or thinl
jEgcan.” These brief w
wretchedness, despair, rer.
Two days previously we
buildings of Algiers, rising
gloomy purple lines of Afri
tains, and lonely settlement
On the 5th, to the inc:
th#* ^r.4—-
VALETTA.
381
: w ings over the w a t e r ; hundreds o f painted town-boats,
?ads an d white aw nings,— dow n to the little tubs in w hich
, taw ny youn g beggars cam e padd lin g up to the steam er,
IS to let them dive for halfpence. R o u n d this busy b lu e
Dcks, blazin g in sunshine, and covered with every im agin: o f fortification; to the right, St. E lm o, with flag and
and opposite, the M ilitary H osp ital, lo o kin g like a
:l all round, the houses o f the city, for its size the handm ost stately in the world.
es it disappoint you on a closer inspection, as m any a
n does.
T h e streets are thronged with a lively, com fort-
<r p o p u la tio n ; the poor seem to inhabit handsom e stone
th balcon ies and p rojectin g w indow s o f heavy carved
e lights and shadows, the cries and stenches, the fniitfish-stalls, the dresses and chatter o f all n a tio n s ; the
scarlet, and w om en in b la ck m a n tilla s ; the beggars, boatIs o f p ickled herrings and m a cca ro n i; tlie shovel-hatted
I bearded ca p u ch in s; the to bacco , grapes, onions, and
the signboards, bottled-porter stores, the statues o f saints
hapels w hich jo stle the stranger’s eyes as he go es up th e
irs from the W ater-gate, m ake a scene o f such pleasant
m d liveliness as I h ave n ever w itnessed before. A n d the
the groups o f m ultitudinous actors in this busy, cheerful
heightened, as it were, b y the decorations o f the stage.
» delightfully b rillia n t; a ll.th e houses and ornam ents are
astles and palaces are rising all around ; and the flag,
d w alls o f F o rt St. E lm o lo o k as fresh and m agnificent as i f
)een erected only yesterday.
rada R e ale has a m uch m ore courtly appearan’ce than that
bed. H e re are palaces, churches, court-houses and libraries,
L o n d o n shops, and the latest articles o f perfumery. G a y
:1
cers are strolling about in shell-jackets m uch too sm all for
dshipm en are clattering b y on hired h o rses; squads o f
ib ited after the fashion o f D o n Basilio in the opera, are
p acin g to and fro ; professional beggars run shrieking a fte r
j e r ; and agents for horses, for inns, and for w orse p laces
w him and insinuate the excellen ce o f their goods. T h e
here they are selling carpet-bags and pom atum w ere th e
’ the successors o f the go o d liest com p an y o f gallan t knights
382
A JO U R N E Y FROM CORNHILL TO CAIRO.
the w orld ever heard tell o f
It seems U D rom antic; b u t these were
not the rom antic K n ig h ts o f St. John. T h e heroic d a y s o f the O rda
ended as the last T u rkish ga lley lifted anch or a fter th e memocable
siege. T h e present stately houses w ere built in tim es o f peace
and splendour and decay.
I doubt w hether th e A u b e rg e de
P ro ven ce, w here the “ U n io n C l u b ” flourishes n ow , h as ever seen
anythin g m ore ronuiniic than th e pleasant b alls h e ld in the great
room there.
T h e C h urch o f Saint John, n ot a handsom e stnictun e without, is
m agnificent w ith in : a noble hall covered with a rich em broiden' of
gild ed carving, the chapels o f the different nations on cith e r side, bet
not interfering wa tit th e main structure, o f which the w h o le is simple,
and the details only splendid ; it seem ed to m e a fittin g p la c e for this
w ealth y b o d y o f aristocratic soldiers, w h o m ade th eir d e v o tio n s as it
w ere on parade, and, though on their knees, n ev er fo rgo t their
epaulets or their quarters o f nobility. T h is m ixture o f religion and
w orldly pride seems incongruous at firs t; b ut have w e n o t a t cKurdi
a t hom e sim ilar relics o f feudal cerem o n y ?— the v e rg e r with the
silver m ace Avho precedes the v ic a r to the d e s k ; the tw o chaplains of
m y lord archbishop, who bow o ve r his grace as he en ters the cooh
m union-table g a t e e v e n poor John, who foUow's ray la d y with a
coron eted prayerybook, and m akes his
congi as he h a n d s it into the
pew. W hat a chivalrous absurdity is the banner o f so m e high and
m ighty prince, hanging over his stall in W indsor C h a p e l, when you
think o f the purpose for w hich men are supposed to a ssem ble there I
T h e C hurch o f the K n igh ts o f S l John is p aved over Avith sprawling
h erald ic devices o f the dead gen tlem en o f the dead O rtler ; as If, to
th e n ext world, they exp ected to take rank in conform ity with their
pedigrees, a n d wôuld be m arslialled in to heaven a cco rd in g to the
orders o f precedence. C um brous handsom e pain dn gs adorn the
w alls and chapels, decorated with pom pous m onum ents o f Grand
M asters. Beneath is a crypt, w here m ore o f these h o n o u rab le and
reverend warriors lie, in a state, that a Simpson Avoulil adm ire, la
the altar arc said to lie three o f the m ost gallan t rcUcs in the w o rld :
the keys o f A cre, R h o d es, and J erusaJem. W hat blo o d w as shed In
defen din g these em blem s ! W h at faith, endurance, genius, a n d gener o s it y ; what pride, hatred, am bition , and savage lust o f b lo o d were
roused togetlter for tlieir guardianship !
\
I n th e lofty halls and corridors o f th e G o vern o r’s h o u se, som^
M A L T A RKL I CS .
3S3
portraits o f the late G ran d M asters still re m a in : a very fine one, b y
C a ra va gg io , o f a kn igh t in gilt arm our, hangs in the dining-room ,
n e a r a full-length o f p o or L ou is X V I ., in royal robes, the ve ry picture
o f u n easy im potency. B u t the portrait o f D e V ign a co u rt is the o n ly
o n e w hich has a respectable a i r ; the other chiefs o f the fam ous so ciety
a re pom pous o ld gen tlem en in b la ck , w ith huge periwigs, and crow ns
ro u n d their hats, and a coup le o f m elan choly pages in y ello w and red.
B u t p ages and w igs and G ran d M asters have alm ost faded out o f the
ca n v a s, and are vanishing into H a d es with a m ost m elan choly indis
tin ctn ess. T h e nam es o f m ost o f these gentlem en, how ever, live as
y e t in the forts o f the place, w hich all seem to have b een eager to
b u ild and c h r is te n ; so that it seems as if, in the M a lta m ythology,
t h e y had been turned into freestpne.
In the arm oury is the very suit painted b y C aravaggio, b y the side
o f th e arm our o f the n oble old L a V a le tte, w hose heroism saved his
is la n d from the efforts o f M ustapha and D ragut, and an arm y quite as
fie rc e and num erous as that w hich was baffled before G ibraltar, b y
sim ila r courage and resolution. T h e sword o f the last-nam ed fam ous
c o rs a ir (a m ost truculent little scim itar), thousands o f p ikes and
h a lb erts, little o ld cannons and wall-pieces, helm ets and cuirasses,
w h ic h the kn ights or their p eop le w ore, are trim ly arranged against
t h e w all, and, instead o f spiking T u rk s or arm ing warriors, now serve
t o p o in t m orals and adorn tales. A n d here likew ise are kep t m any
th o u sa n d m uskets, swords, and boarding-pikes for daily use, and a
<X)uple o f ragged o ld standards o f one o f the E n glish regim ents, w ho
p u rsu ed and conquered in E g y p t the rem ains o f the haughty and
fa m o u s F ren ch republican arm y, at w hose appearance the last knights
o f M a lta flung op en the gates o f all their fortresses, and consented
t o b e extinguished w ithout so m uch as a rem onstrance, or a kick , or
a struggle.
W e to o k a drive into w hat m ay be called the c o u n tr y ; w here the
field s are rocks, and the hedges are stones— passing b y the stone
ga rd en s o f the F lorian, and w ondering at the num ber and handsom e
n ess o f the stone villages and churches rising everyw here am ong the
sto n y hills. H and som e villas w ere passed everyw here, and w e drove
fo r a lo n g distance alon g the sides o f an aqueduct, quite a royal w ork
o f the C aravaggio in go ld arm our, the G rand M aster D e V ig n a co u rt
A m ost agreeable contrast to the arid rocks o f the general scenery
w a s th e gard en at the G overn or’s co u n try-h o u se; w ith the orange-
t
punsters the Manuel d
dates you with <jiiarter^
scent your letters with a
so careful of your healti
lest you should walk in
the sea: if you cscaj)Cv.
opposite sliore would fin
To droj), however, this s;
tine is, may fancy that i
which it has been endun
hlalta is like the most del
every gaiety and amiiseim
good old library filled full
modem science, travel, an
last two centuries), and nc
though the society of Valt
able, yet somehow one did
glimpses of Fort Manuel
quarantine authorities shou
a pretext of jiosthumous j)
very first opportunity— th
hLastem expedition. They
death had removed two of
in Egypt, with a mother to
dismal lazaretto cemetery.
•
*
One is b m m / l
'
D E A T H IN THE LAZARETTO.
385
h im self, and ordains that the nearest and dearest shall m eet here no
m ore.
Such an o ccurrence as a death in a lazaretto, m ere selfishness
ren ders striking. W e w ere w alkin g w ith him b ut two days ago on
d e ck . O n e has a sketch o f him , another his card, w ith the address
w ritten yesterday, and given w ith an invitation to com e and see him
a t hom e in the country, w here his children are lo o k in g for him . H e
is d ead in a day, and buried in the w alls o f the prison. A d o cto r
fe lt his pulse b y depu ty — a clergym an com es from the tow n to read
th e last service o ver him — and the friends, w ho attend his funeral, •
a re m arshalled b y lazaretto-guardians, so as n ot to touch each other.
E v e r y man go es b a ck to his room and applies the lesson to him self.
O n e w ould not so depart w ithout seeing again the dear, dear faces.
W e reckon up those w e lo ve : they are but very few, but I thin k o n e
lo v e s them b etter than ever now. Should it b e your turn n ext ?—
a n d w hy n o t?
Is it p ity or com fort to think o f that affection w hich
w atch es and survives yo u ?
T h e M a k e r has linked together the w hole race o f m an w ith
th is chain o f love. I like to think that there is no m an but has had
k in d ly feelings for som e other, and he for his neighbour, until w e
b in d togeth er the w hole fam ily o f A dam . N o r does it end here. I t
jo in s heaven and earth together. F o r m y friend o r m y child o f past
d a y s is still m y friend or m y child to m e here, o r in the hom e
p rep ared for us b y the F ath er o f all. I f identity survives the grave,
a s o u r faith tells us, is it n ot a con solation to think that there m ay b e
o n e o r tw o souls am ong the purified and just, w hose affection w atches
u s invisible, and follow s the p o or sinner on earth ?
N o t feeling any entl
o f course is clear, tc
f a c t what business
three w'eeks, and whc
paper, to pretend to
poetry, o f w hich I sw<
Y
an enthusiasm quite i
W h at call have ladies
their notions o f myth»
P an th eon ? ” W h at is
y o u n g dandies from C
harbour, and yello w o k
thin k proper to b e entl
n o th in g ; the m ere phys
part, c o m p re h e n d ; anc
thousand four hundred
com m on w ith Pericles,
A sp asia (O fie) ? O f th
about the tom b o f Socrai
v o te d to hem lock him ?
leads m en b y the nose nc
lo w ly husband o f X antip
sp eak the truth. I know
• '* * *
REMINISCENCES OF TniTO.
387
son (afterwards to b e celebrated under the nam e o f T itm arsh) into
ten years* banishm ent o f infernal m isery, tyranny, a n n o y a n c e ; to give
o ve r the fresh feelings o f the heart o f the little M ichael A n g elo to the
discip lin e o f vu lgar bullies, who, in order to lead ten der youn g
children to the T em p le o f L earn in g (as they do in the spellingb o o ks), drive them on w ith clench ed fists and low a b u s e ; if they
fain ted, revived them with a thump, or assailed them with a curse ;
i f they were m iserable, con soled them w ith a brutal jee r— îf, I say, m y
d e a r parents, instead o f givin g m e the inestim able benefit o f a ten
y ea rs’ classical education, had kept m e at hom e with m y dear thirteen
sisters, it is probable I should have liked this country o f A ttica, in
sig h t o f the blue shores o f w hich the present pathetic letter is
w ritte n ; but I was m ade so m iserable in youth b y a classical
education , that all con n ected w ith it is disagreeable in m y e y e s ; and
I have the sam e recollection o f G re ek in youth that I have o f
castor-oil.
S o in com ing in sight o f the prom ontory o f Sunium, w here the
G re e k muse, in an awful vision, cam e to me, and said in a patronizing
w a y , “ W hy, m y dear,” (she always, the o ld spinster, adopts tliis
h ig h and m ighty tone,)— “ W h y, m y dear, are you n ot charm ed to b e
in this famous neighbourhood, in this land o f poets and heroes, o f
w h o se history your classical education ought to h ave m ade you a
m a s te r ; i f it did not, you h ave w ofully n eglected your opportunities,
a n d your dear parents have w asted their m oney in sending you to
s c h o o l” - I replied, “ M adam , yo u r cm npany in youth w as m ade so
la b orio u sly disagreeable jto m e, th&t I can ’t a t present recon cile m y self
t o you in age. I read ydiULpoets, but it was in fear and tre m b lin g ;
a n d a co ld sweat is but an ill accom panim ent to poetry. I blundered
throu gh your h isto ries; but history is so dull (saving your presence)
o f herself, that when the brutal dulness o f a schoolm aster is super
a d d e d to her own slow conversation, the union becom es in to le ra b le :
he n ce 1 have not the slightest pleasure in renew ing m y acquaint
a n c e w ith a la d y w ho has been the source o f so m uch b o d ily
a n d m ental discom fort to m e.”
T o m ake a lo n g story short, I
am anxious to apologize for a w ant o f enthusiasm in the classical
lin e, and to excuse an ignorance w hich is o f the m ost undeniable
so rt
T h is is an im proper frame o f m ind for a person visiting the land
o f iE sch y lu s and E u rip id es; add to which, w e have been abom inably
388
A yOU RN EY FROM CORNHILL TO CAIRO.
overcharged at the in n ; and w h at are the blue hills o f A ttica , the
silver calm basin o f Pineus, the heathery heights o f PcnteU cus, and
yonder rocks crow ned by the D o ric colum ns o f the P arth en o n , and
the thm Io n ic shafts o f the Ercchtheum , to a m an w h o has bad
little rest, and is bitten all o ver by bugs ?
Was A ld b ia d e s bitten
b y bugs, I w onder; and did the brutes crawl o v e r Irim as he
la y in the rosy arms o f P h ry n c?
ivished all n igh t fo r Socxates'
ham m ock or basket, as it is described in the “ C lo u d s ; ” in which
resting-place, no doubt, the abom inable anim als k ep t p e rfo rce dear
1
o f him.
A French man-of-wâr, lyin g in the silvery little h arb o u r, sternly
eyeing out o f its stem port-holes a saucy little E n g lish con*ette
beside, began plajdng sounding m arches as a crow d o f b o a ts came
paddling up to the steam er’s side to con vey us tra vellers to shore.
T h ere were R ussian schooners and G reek brigs lyin g in tliis little
b a y ; dum py little windm ills whirling round on the sun burn t heights
round about i t ; an im provised town o f quays and m arin e taverns has
sprung up on the shore ; a host o f jingling barouches, m o re miserable
than any to b e seen even in G erm any, were co llected a t th e Lmdiogp la c e ; and the G reek drivers (how* queer they lo o ked in skull-caps.
shabby jack ets with profuse em broidery o f worsted, a n d endless
petticoats o f dirty calico !) began, in a generous ardour fo r securing
passengers, to abuse each other’s horses and carriages in th e regu !^
L on don fashion. Satire could certain ly hardly caricature the vehicle
in w hich we were m ade to journ ey to A th e n s; and it w as o n ly by
thinking that, bad as they wêre, these coaches were m uch m ore com
fortable contrivances than any A lcib iad es or^Cimon e v e fh a d , that wc
consoled ourselves alon g the ro a d It was flat for six m iles a lon g the
LANDSCAPE.
389
p la in to the c i t y : and you see for the greater part o f the w ay the
p u rp le m ount on w hich the A cro p o lis rises, and the gleam in g houses
o f the town spread beneath. R o u n d this w ide, yellow , barren plain,
— a stunt district o f olive-trees is alm ost the only vegetation visible—
th e re rises, as it w ere, a sort o f chorus o f the m ost beautiful m oun
tain s ; th e m ost elegant, gracious, and n oble the eye ever lo o ked on.
T h e s e hills did not appear at all lo fty or terrible, but superbly
ric h and aristocratic. T h e clouds w ere dancin g round about t h e m ;
y o u could see their rosy, purple shadows sw eeping round the clear,
seren e summits o f th e hill.
T o call a hill aristocratic seem s affected
o r a b s u rd ; but the difference betw een these hills and the others, is
th e difference betw een N ew gate Prison an d the “ Travellers* C lu b ,”
f o r in s ta n c e : both are b u ild in g s ; but the one stem , dark, and
c o a r s e : the other rich, elegant, and festive. A t least, so I thought.
W ith such a stately p alace as m unificent N ature had built for these
p eo p le, w hat could they b e them selves but lordly, beautiful, brilliant,
brave, and w ise? W e saw four G reeks on d o n keys on the road
(w hich is a dust-whirlwind where it is n ot a p u d d le ); and other four
w ere p layin g with a dirty p ack o f cards, at a barrack that E n glish
p o ets have christened the “ H alf-w ay H o u se.”
D o e s external nature
a n d b eauty influence the soul to g o o d ? Y o u go about W arw ick
shire, and fan cy that from m erely bein g b o m and w andering in those
sw eet sunny plains and fresh w oodlands Shakspeare must have drunk
in a portion o f that frank, artless sense o f beauty, w hich lies abou t
h is w orks like a bloom or d e w ; but a C o v en try ribbon-m aker, or a
slan g L eam ington squire, are lo o kin g on those very sam e landscapes
to o , and w hat do they p ro fit? Y o u theorize about the influence w hich
th e clim ate an d appearance o f A ttic a must have had in ennobling
th o se w ho w ere b o m th e r e ; yon der dirty, swindling, ragged b la ck
guards, lollin g over greasy cards three hours before noon, quarrelling
a n d shrieking, arm ed to the teeth and afraid to fight, are bred out o f
th e sam e land w hich bego t the philosophers and heroes. B ut the
“ H alf-w ay H o u se ” is past b y this time, and b e h o ld ! we are in the
cap ital o f K in g O tho.
I swear solem nly that I w ould rather have two hundred a y ear in
F le e t Street, than be K in g o f the G reek s, with Basileus written before
m y nam e round their beggarly c o i n ; w ith the bother o f perpetual
revolu tion s in m y huge plaster-of-Paris palace, w ith no am usem ent
b u t a drive in the afternoon o ver a w retched arid country, w here
390
A 7 0 URNEY FROM CORNHILL^ TO CAIRO.
roads arc not m ade, w ith am bassadors (the d eu ce kn o w s why, foe
what good can the English, or the French, or the R u ssia n party get
out o f such a bankrupt alliance as th is?) p erp etu ally p ullin g and
tugging at me, aw ay from hon est G erm an y, w here th ere is b e er and
aesthetic conversation, and operas at a sm all cost. T h e shabbincss
o f this p lace actu ally beats Ireland, and that is a stro n g w ord . The
palace o f the Basileus is an enorm ous edifice o f p laster, in a square
containing six houses, three d on keys, no roads, no fo un tain s (e x a p t
in the picture o f the in n ) ; backw ards it seem s to lo o k stra igh t to the
m ountain— on one side is a b egga rly garden— the K in g g o e s out to
drive (revolutions perm itting) at five— som e four-and-tw enty black
guards saunter up to the huge sandhill o f a terrace, as his M ajesty
passes b y in a gilt barouch e and an absurd fan cy dress ; th e gilt
barouche go es plunging dow n the sandhills r the tw o d o zen soldiers,
who have been presenting arms, slouch o ff to their quarters : the vast
barrack o f a palace rem ains entirely w hite, ghastly, and lo n e ly : and,
save the braying o f a d on key now and then, (w hich long-eared
m instrels are m ore active and sonorous in A th en s than in a n y place I
know ,) all is entirely silent round Basileus’s palace.
H o w could
p eo p le who kn ew L eo p old fen cy he w ould be so “ jo lly green ” as to
take such a berth ? It was o n ly a go bem o uch e o f a B a va ria n that
co u ld ever h ave been induced to accep t i t
1 beseech yo u to believe that it was not the bill and th e bugs at
the inn w hich induced the writer h ereo f to speak so slightingly
o f the residence o f Basileus. T h e se e\'ils are now cu red and for
gotten.
T h is is w ritten o ff the leaden flats and m oun ds which
th ey call the T road. I t is stern ju stice alon e w hich pronounces
this excruciating sentence.
It was a farce to m ake this p la ce into
a kin gly c a p it a l; and I m ake n o m anner o f doubt that K in g Otho,
the ve ry d ay he can get aw ay unperceived, and g e t to g e th e r die
passage-m oney, will b e o ff for dear old D eutsclilan d, F ailicrlan d,
Becrland !
I have never seen a town in E ngland w hich m ay b e com pared
to this ; for though H e m e B a y is a ruin now, m on ey w as o n c e spent
upon it and houses b u ilt; here, beyon d a few score o f m ansions
com fortably laid out, the tow n is little better than a ric k e ty a gglo m e
ration o f larger and sm aller huts, tricked out here and there writh the
most absurd cracked ornam ents and cheap attem pts at elegance.
B ut neatness is the elegan ce o f poverty, and these p eo p le desi)Lse
GREEK WOMEN.
391
su ch a h o m e ly orn am en t I h ave go t a m ap w ith squares, fountains,
theatres, public gardens, and P la ces d ’O th on m arked o u t ; but th ey
o n ly exist in the p aper capital— the w retch ed tum ble-down w ooden
o n e boasts o f none.
O n e is obliged to com e b a ck to the old disagreeable com parison .
o f Irelan d. A th en s m ay b e about as w ealth y a p lace as C arlo w or
K illa r n e y — the streets swarm with idle crow ds, the innum erable
lit tle lanes flow over with dirty little children, th ey are p layin g
a n d p uddling about in the dirt everyw here, w ith great b ig eyes,
y e llo w faces, and the queerest little gow ns and skull-caps.
B ut
in the outer m an, the G reek has far the advantage o f the Irish
m an : m ost o f them are w ell and decen tly dressed (if five-and-twenty
y a r d s o f p ettico at m ay not b e called decen t, w hat m a y ? ) th ey
sw a gg er to and fro w ith huge kn ives in their girdles.
A lm o st a ll the
m en are handsom e, but live hard, it is said, in order to decorate their
b a c k s with those fine clothes o f theirs. I have seen but tw o or three
han d so m e wom en, and these had the great draw back w hich is
co m m o n to the race— I m ean, a sallow , greasy, coarse com plexion,
a t w hich it was n ot advisable to lo o k too closely.
A n d on this score I think w e E n glish m ay pride ourselves on
possessin g an advantage (b y we, I m ean the lo v e ly ladies to w hom
th is is addressed w ith the m ost respectful com plim ents) over the m ost
cla ss ic a l coun try in the world.
I don ’t care for b eauty w hich w ill
o n ly bear to b e lo o ked at from a distance, like a scene in a theatre.
W h a t is the m ost beautiful nose in the w orld, i f it b e co vered w ith a
s k in o f the texture and colour o f coarse whitey-brow n p a p e r ; and if
N a tu re has m ade it as slippery and shining as though it had been
a n o in ted w ith pom atum ? T h e y m ay talk about beauty, b ut w ould
y o u w ear a flow er that had been dip ped in a grease-pot ?
N o ; giv e
m e a fresh, dew y, healthy rose out o f Som ersetshire; n ot one o f those
sup erb, taw dry, unwholesom e exotics, w hich are o n ly go o d to m ake
p o em s about.
L o rd B yron w rote m ore cant o f this sort than an y
p o e t I kn o w o f
T h in k o f “ the peasant girls w ith dark blue eyes ”
o f the R h in e— the brown-faced, flat-nosed, thick-lipped, dirty w e n c h e s !
T h in k o f “ fiUing high a cup o f Sam ian w in e ;” sm all beer is n ectar
co m p ared to it, and B yron h im self always drank gin. T h a t m an
never w rote from his h e a r t H e g o t up rapture and enthusiasm w ith
an eye to the p u b lic ; but this is dangerous ground, even m ore
dan gerous than to lo o k A th en s full in the face, and say that y o u r
39 ^
A JO U RN EY FROM CORNHILL TO CAIRO.
eyes are not dazzled b y its beauty.
T h e G re at
P u b lic admires
G reece and Byron ; the public know s b e s t M urray’s “ G uide-bo ok’’
calls the latter “ o u r n ative bard.” O u r n ative bard ! Afon Pieul
He Shakspeare’s, M ilton’s, K e a ts’s, Scott’s n ative b a rd !
W ell, woe
b e to the man w h o denies the public go d s I
T h e truth is, then, that A th en s is a d is a p p o in tm e n t; a n d I am
angry that it should be so.
T o a skilled antiquarian, or an enthu
siastic G reek scholar, the feelings created b y a sight o f the p b c e of
course will be dU feren t; but you who w ould be in sp ired b y it must
undergo a lon g preparation o f reading, and possess, tCK», a particular
fe e lin g ; both o f which, I suspect, are uncom m on in o u r b u sy com
m ercial new spaper-reading country.
M en o n ly s a y th e y are enthu
siastic abou t the G reek and K o m a n authors and history, b ecau se it is
considered proper and respectable. A n d we know h o w gen tlem en in
B a ker Street have editions o f the classics handsom ely b o u n d in the
library, and how th ey use them.
O f course th ey d o n ’t retire to read
the n ew sp a p er; it is to lo o k over a favourite o d e o f P in d a r, or lo
discuss an obscure passage in Athenaeus ! O f course co u n try magis
trates and M em bers o f Parliam ent are alw ays studying D em osthenes
and C ic e r o ; we know it from their continual habit o f q u o tin g the
L atin gram m ar in Parliam ent.
B u t it is agreed th a t the classics
are re sp e ctab le ; therefore wc are lo be enthusiastic a b o u t them.
A lso let us adm it that Byron is to be held up as “ o u r native
b ard ”
I am n ot so entire a heathen as to b e insensible to the beauty
o f those relics o f G reek art, o f which men much m ore learn ed and
enthusiastic have w ritten such piles o f descriptions,
I thought I
could recognize the towering b eau ty o f the prodigious colum ns of
the T em p le o f J u p iter; and adm ire the astonishing g race, severity,
elegance, com pleteness o f the Parthenon.
T h e little T e m p le of
V icto ry, with its fluted Corinthian shafts, blazed under the sun almost
as fresh as it must have appeared to the eyes o f its fo u n d e r s ; I saw
n oth ing m ore charm ing and brilliant, m ore graceful, festive, and
aristocratic than this sum ptuous little building. T h e R o m a n remains
w hich lie in the town b elo w look lik e the w orks o f barbarians
beside these perfect structures.
T h e y ja r strangely on th e eye, after
it has been accustom ing itself lo perfect harm ony and proportions.
If, as the schoolm aster tells us, the G reek w riting is as co m p lete as
the G reek a r t ; i f an ode o f P in d ar is as glittering a n d pure as the
xrnTQ A G A IN
393
T e m p le o f V ic t o r y ; or a discourse o f P lato as polished and calm as
y o n d e r m ystical portico o f the E re ch th e u ra ; w hat treasures o f th e
senses and delights o f the im agination have those lost to w hom th e
G re e k bo o ks are as go o d as s e a le d !
A n d y et one m eets with v e ry dull first-class men.
G enius w on ’t
transplan t from one brain to another, or is ruined in the carriage, lik e
fin e B uigundy.
Sir R o b e rt P eel and Sir John H o bh o u se are both
g o o d sch o la rs; b ut their p o etry in Parliam ent does n ot strike one as
fine. M uzzle, the schoolm aster, w ho is b u l l i n g poor trem bling little
b o y s , was a fine scholar w hen he was a sizar, and a ruffian then
a n d ever since. W h ere is the great poet, since the days o f M ilton,
w h o has im proved the natural offshoots o f his brain b y grafting
i t from the A th en ian tree ?
I had a volum e o f T en n yso n in m y p ocket, w hich som ehow
settled that question, and ended the querulous dispute betw een m e
a n d C on scien ce, under the shape o f the n eglected and irritate^l
G re e k muse, w hich had been go in g on ever since I had com m enced
m y w alk about A th en s.
T h e old spinster saw m e w ince at the idea
o f the author o f D o ra and U lysses, and tried to follow up her advan
ta g e b y further hints o f tim e lost, and precious opportunities throwoi
aw ay. “ Y o u m ight have written poem s like them ,” said s h e ; “ or,
n o , n ot like tliem perhaps, but you m ight have don e a neat prize
p o em , and pleased your papa and mamma.
Y o u m ight have
translated J ack and G ill into G reek iam bics, and been a credit to yo u r
c o lleg e.” I turned testily aw ay from her. “ M adam ,” says I, “ becau se
a n eagle houses on a m ountain, or soars to the sun, don’t yo u b e
an g ry w ith a sparrow that perches on a garret-window, or twitters on
a twig.
L e a v e m e to m y self; look, m y b e ak i s ‘ not aquiline b y
a n y m eans.”
A n d so, m y dear friend, you w ho have been reading this last page
in w onder, and w ho, instead o f a description o f A thens, have been
acco m m o d ated w ith a lam ent on the part o f the vTiter, that he was
id le at school, and does n ot kn ow G reek, excuse this m om entary
o utbreak o f egotistic despondency. T o say truth, dear Jones, w hen
o n e w alks am ong the nests o f the eagles, and sees the prodigious eggs
th e y laid, a certain feeling o f discom fiture m ust com e over us sm aller
birds. Y o u and I could not invent— it even stretches our m inds pain
fu lly to try and com prehend part o f the b eau ty o f the Parthenon—
e v e r so little o f it,— the beau ty o f a single colum n,— a firagment o f a
394
A y oU R N E Y FROM CORNHILL TO CAIRO.
broken shaft lying under the astonishing blue s k y th e re , in th e tnidst
o f that unrivalled landscape. T h e re m ay b e gran der a sp ects o f nature,
but none more deliciou sly beautiful. T h e hills rise in p erfe ct harmony,
and fall in the m ost exquisite caden ces,— tbe sea see m s b righ ter, the
islands m ore purple, the clouds m ore light and ro sy th a n elsewhere.
A s yo u lo o k up through the o p o i roof, y o u are alm ost op pressed by
th e serene depth o f the blue overhead. L o o k even a t th e fragments
o f the m arble, how soft and pure it is, gUttcring a n d w h ite lik e fresh
snow I “ I w as all beautiful,” It seems to s a y : “ e v e n th e hidden
parts o f m e w ere spotless, precious, and fair ” — and so, m u sin g over
this wonderful scene, perhaps I g e t som e feeble gH rapse o r idea of
that ancient G reek spirit w hich p eop led it with sublim e r a c e s o f heroes
and g o d s ; * and which I n ever co u ld ge t out o f a G r e e k b o o k ,— no,
not though M uzzle flung it at m y head.
* S ^ t P a u l s p e a k in g from th e A re o p a g u s, a n d re b u k in g th e s e sixpcr^titioiit
a w a y , y e t sp ea k s ten d erly to th e p e o p le bcfcrre hitn, w h o s e d e v o t io n s he lu d
m a rk e d ; q uo tes th e ir
to brin g th em to th in k o f the G o d itn k n o w n , wbont
th e y hod ig n o ra n tly w o rsh ip p ed ; an d sa y s, th at th e tim es o f th is fg n o n m c c 6 W
uftnkeJ at, b u t th a t n o w it w a s tim e to re p e n t.
ge n tle th a n th is d e liv e re d b y th e u p rig h t A p o stle-
N o reb u k e ca n s u r e ty b e more
(
39S
CH APTER
)
V I.
SMYRNA— FIRST GLIMPSES OF THE EAST.
I AM g la d that the T u rkish part o f A th en s was extinct, so that I
sh o u ld n ot b e b a u lk e d o f the pleasure o f entering an E astern tow n b y
a n in troduction to an y garbled or incom plete specim en o f one.
Sm yrn a seem s to me the m ost E astern o f all I h ave s e e n ; as C alais
w ill p ro b ab ly rem ain to the Englishm an the m ost F ren ch tow n in the
w o r ld T h e jack-boots o f the postilions don’t seem so huge elsewhere,
o r th e tight stockings o f the m aid-servants so G allic. T h e churches
a n d the ramparts, and the little soldiers on them , rem ain for
e v e r im pressed upon your m e m o ry ; from w hich larger tem ples and
buildin gs, an d w hole arm ies have subsequently d isap p ea re d : and the
first w ords o f actu al F ren ch heard spoken, and the first dinner a t
“ Q u illa cq ’s,” rem ain after tw en ty years as clear as on the first day.
D e a r Jones, can ’t you rem em ber the exact sm ack o f the w hite her
m itage, and the toothless old fellow singing “ L argo al factotum ” ?
T h e first d ay in the E a st is lik e th a t A fter that there is nothing.
T h e w on der is gon e, and the thrill o f that delightful shock, w hich so
seldom touches the nerves o f plain m en o f the w orld, though they
see k for it everyw here. O n e such lo o ked out at Sm yrna from our
steam er, and y a ^ e d w ithout the least excitem ent, and did not betray
th e slightest em otion, as boats w ith real T u rk s on board cam e up to
th e ship. T h e re lay the tow n w ith m inarets and cypresses, dom es
an d c a s tle s ; great guns w ere firing off, and the blood-red flag o f the
Sultan flaring o ver the fort ever since su n rise; w oods and m ountains
cam e dow n to the g u l f s edge, and as you lo o ked at them w ith the
telesco p e, there p eeped out o f the general mass a score o f pleasant
episodes o f Eastern life— there were cottages with quaint r o o fs ;
silen t co o l kiosks, w here the ch ie f o f the eunuchs brings dow n th e
ladies o f the harem . I saw H assan , the fisherm an, gettin g his n e t s ;
an d A li B aba go in g o ff with his d o n k ey to the great forest for w ood.
Sm ith lo o k ed at these w onders quite im m o v e d ; and I w as surprised
a t his a p a t h y : but he had been a t Sm yrna before. A m an o n ly sees
th e m iracle o n c e ; though y o u yearn after it ever so, it w on’t com e
A JO U R K E Y FROM CORNHILL TO CAIRO.
396
again.
I saw nothing o f A ll B ab a and H assan the n e x t tim e we came
to Sm yrna, and had som e doubts (recollectin g the b a d n e ss o f the mn»
abou t landing at all. A person w ho w ishes to u n d e rsta n d Frmoe
and the E ast should com e in a yach t to C alais or S m y rn a , land fee
tw o hours, and never afterw'ards go b a ck again.
But those two hours are b eyo n d m easure delightful.
S o m e o f us
were querulous up to that time, and doubted o f the w'isdom o f making
the voyage.
L isb o n , we ow ned, was a failure ; A th e n s a dead
failure ; M alta very w ell, but n ot worth the trouble a n d sea-sickn ess:
in fact, B aden -B aden or D evon shire w ould b e a b e tte r mme
than t h is ; when Sm yrna cam e, and rebuked all m u tin o u s Cockneys
into silence* Som e men m ay read this w'ho are in w a n t o f a sensa*
tion* I f th ey lo ve the o d d and picturesque, tf th e y lo v e d the
“ A rabian N ig h ts ” in their y o u th ,le t them bo o k th e m se lv e s on board
one o f the Peninsular and O riental vessels, and try o n e dtp in to Constantinople or S m y m x
W a lk into the bazaar, a n d th e East
un veiled to you ; how often and often h ave you tried to fa n c y this,
1
lyin g out on a sum m er holiday at school
It is w on derful, to o , how
like it is ; you m ay im agine that y o u h ave been in th e p la c e before,
y o u seem to kn ow it so w e l l !
T h e beauty o f that p oetry is, to me, that it was n ev er to o hand*
s o m e ; there is no fatigue o f sublim ity about it, S h a c a b a c and the
little Barber p lay as great a part in it as the h e r o e s ; th e re are no
uncom fortable sensations o f terro r; you m ay b e fam iliar w ith the
great A freet, who was going to execute the travellers for k illin g his
son w ith a date-stone. M orgiana, w hen she kills the fo rty robbers
w'ith b o ilin g oil, does not seem to hurt them in the l e a s t ; and
though K in g Stffiahriar m akes a practice o f cutting o f f h is w'md
heads, yet you fancy they have got them on again in som e o f the back
room s o f the p alace, where th ey are dancing and p layin g on duldm erL
H o w fresh, easy, good-natured, is all this! H o w d e lig h tfu l is that
notion o f the pleasant E astern people abou t kn o w ledge, w'here the
height o f science is m ade to consist in the answ'ering o f r id d le s ! and
a ll the m athem aticians and m agicians bring their great b e a r d s to bear
on a conundrum I
W lien I go t into the b azaar am ong this race, so m eh ow I felt as if
they VI'ere all friends. T h e re sat tlie m erchants in their little shops,
quiet and solem n, but w ith friendly looks. T h ere was n o smoking,
it was the R a m a za n ; no eating, the fish and meats fiz z in g in the
THE SMYRNA BAZAAR.
397
enorm ous pots o f the cook-shops are o n ly for the Christians. T h e
ch ild ren a b o u n d e d ; the law is n ot so stringent upon them , an d
m a n y w andering m erchants w ere there selling figs (in the nam e o f the
P ro p h et, doubtless,) for their benefit, and elbow ing onwards w ith
b a sk ets o f grapes and cucum bers. C ountrym en passed bristling over
w ith arms, each with a huge bellyful o f pistols and daggers in his
g ir d le ; fierce, but n ot the least dangerous. W ild swarthy A rabs,
w h o had com e in w ith the caravans, w alked solem nly abou t, v e ry
differen t in lo o k and dem eanour from the sleek inhabitants o f the
to w n . G reeks and Jew s squatted and sm oked, their shops ten ded by
sallow -faced boys, w ith large eyes, w ho sm iled and w elcom ed you i n ;
n eg ro es bustled about in ga u d y co lo u rs; and w om en, w ith b la ck
nose-bags and shuffling yello w slippers, chattered and bargained at
th e doors o f the little shops. T h e re was the rope quarter and the
sw eetm eat quarter, and the pipe bazaar and the arm bazaar, and the
little tum ed-up shoe quarter, and the shops w here ready-m ade jack ets
a n d pelisses w ere swinging, and the region w here, under the ragged
aw n ings, regim ents o f tailors w ere at w ork. T h e sun peeps through
th ese awnings o f mat o r canvas, w hich are hung over the narrow
la n e s o f the bazaar, and ornam ents them w ith a thousand freaks o f
lig h t and shadow. C o g ia H assan A lh a b b a l’s shop is in a blaze o f
l i g h t ; w hile his neighbour, the barber and coffee-house keeper, has
h is prem ises, his lo w seats and narghiles, his queer pots and basins,
in th e shade. T h e cobblers are always good-natured ; there was o n e
w ho, I am sure, has been revealed to m e in m y dream s, in a dirty o ld
g re e n turban, with a pleasant w rinkled face like ail apple, tw inkling
h is little gray eyes as he held them up to talk to the gossips, and
sm ilin g under a delightful old gray beard, w hich did the heart g o o d
to se e . Y o u divine the conversation betw een him and the cucum berm a n , as the Sultan used to understand the language o f birds. A re
a n y o f those cucum bers stuffed w ith pearls, and is that A rm en ian
w ith the b la ck square turban H aroun A lrasch id in disguise, standing
y o n d e r b y the fountain w here the children are drinking— the gleam in g
m a rb le fountain, chequered all o ver with light and shadow, and
e n g ra v e d w ith delicate A rabesques and sentences from the K o ra n ?
B u t the greatest sensation o f all is w hen the cam els com e.
W h o le strings o f real cam els, better even than m the procession o f
B lu e Beard, w ith soft rolling eyes and bended necks, sw aying from
o n e sid e o f the bazaar to the other to and fro, and treading gm gerly
■
man squatted on a <
anns, waggling lus
through his nose clu
the room above can
much more musical ti
guide told us it was a
I declare, on my c
nadoing a little mula
was laying on with a c
boy, and the confusi
correction. The othe
drown the noise of th
ment was instantly disc
trap, and the boy cast 1
and the schoolmaster st
in red caps, and the lit
big wondering dark eye;
time, let us tnist. I do
I pity that poor little I
to relish the “ Arabian J
From this scene we
breakfast off red miille
Smyrna wine, at a dir
recommended: and froi
\new of tVio
WOMEN.
399
craw l out o f them , and swarm o ver the d ecks o f the ships w hich
c a n y them to E urope and to E n gland, w here sm all children eat them
w ith pleasure— I m ean the figs, n ot the worm s— and where th ey are
s till served at w ine-parties at the U niversities.
W h en fresh they
a re not b etter than e lse w h ere; b u t the m elons are o f adm irable
flavour, and so large, that C in d erella m ight alm ost b e accom m odated
w ith a co a ch m ade o f a b ig one, w ithout a n y very great distension
o f its original proportions.
O u r guide, an accom plished swindler, dem anded
two dollars a s
th e fee for entering the m osque, w hich others o f our p arty subse
q u e n tly saw for sixpence, so w e did n ot care to exam ine that p lace
o f worship. B ut there w ere other cheaper sights, w hich w ere to the
fu ll as picturesque, for w hich there w as n o call to p ay m oney, or,
in d eed , for a day, scarcely to m ove at all. I d oubt w hether a m an
w h o w ou ld sm oke his p ipe on a bazaar counter all day, and let the
c it y flow b y him , w ou ld not b e alm ost as w ell em ployed as the m ost
a ctiv e curiosity-hunter.
T o be sure h e w ou ld n ot see the wom en. T h o se in the bazaar
w ere shabby p eop le for the m ost part, w hose b la ck m asks n ob o d y
w ou ld feel a curiosity to rem ove. Y o u could see n o m ore o f their
figures than if they had been stuffed in b o ls te rs ; and even their feet
w ere brought to a general sp lay uniform ity b y the double yello w
slippers w h ich the w ives o f true believers wear. B ut it is in the
G re e k and A rm enian quarters, and am ong those p oor Christians w h o
w ere p ulling figs, that you see the beauties ; and a m an o f a generous
d isp osition m ay lose his heart h a lf a dozen tim es a d a y in Sm yrna.
T h e r e was the pretty m aid at w ork at a tambour-frame in an open
p o rch , w ith an old duenna spinning b y her side, and a go a t tied u p
to the railings o f the little co u rt-gard en ; there w as the nym ph w h o
ca m e dow n the stair w ith the p itcher on her head, and gazed wiUi
g re a t calm eyes, as large and stately as Juno’s ; there w as the g e n tle
m other, bendin g o ver a queer cradle, in w hich lay a sm all cryin g
b u n d le o f infancy. A ll these three charm ers w ere seen in a sin g le
street in the A rm en ian quarter, w here the house-doors are all open ,
a n d the w om en o f the fam ilies sit under the arches in the court.
T h e re was the fig-girl, beautiful b eyo n d all others, with an im m ense
co il o f deep b la ck hair tw isted round a head o f w hich R a p h ael w as
w orth y to draw th e outline, and T itia n to paint the colour. I w on der
th e Sulton has n o t swept h er off, or that th e Persian m erchants, w ho
400
A yoUILWEY FROM CORNHILL TO CAIRO.
com e w ith silks and sw eetm eats, h ave n ot k id n a p p e d h er for the
Shah o f T eh ran.
We went to see the Persian m erchants at ih e ir khan, and
purchased som e silks there from a sw arthy, b la ck *b ea rd e d mam with
a con ical cap o f lam bs wool.
Is it not hard to th in k that silks
bought o f a man in a lam bsw ool cap, in a ca ra va n se ra i, brought
hither on the b acks o f cam els, should have been m an u factu red after
all at L y o n s ? O thers o f our party bought carpets, fo r w hich the
town is famous ; and there was one w lio abso lu tely la id in a stock of
real Sm yrna f ig s ; and purchased three or four real S m y rn a sponges
for Jus carriage ; so strong was his passion for the g e n u in e article.
I w onder that no painter has given us famUiar v ie w s o f th e East:
not processions, grand sultans, or m agnificent la n d s c a p e s ; b ut faithful
transcripts o f everyday O riental life, such as each stre et
supjily
to him. T h e cam els afford endless m otives, couch ed in the marketplaces, lyin g b y thousands in the charnel square, sn ortin g and
bubbling after their manner, the sun blazing dow n o n th e ir back^
their slaves and keepers lying behind them in the sh a d e ; and die
C aravan Bridge, a b ove all, nvould afford a painter su b jects for a dozen
o f pictures. O ver this R om an arch, w hich crosses th e M e lc s river,
all the caravans pass on their entrance to the town. O n o n e side, as
we sat and lo o k ed at it, was a great ro w o f plane-trees ; o n the oppo
site bank, a deep w oo d o f tall cypresses— in the m idst o f w h ich rose
up innum erable gray tom bs, surm ounted with the tu rb an s o f the
defunct believers. B eside the stream, the view was le s s gloomy.
T h e re was un der the plane-trees a little coffee-house, sh ad ed by i
trellis-w'ork, covered over with a vin e, and orn am en ted'w 'ith many
rows o f shining pots and water-pipes, for w hich there was n o use at
noon-day now , in the tim e o f R am azan. H a rd by th e coffee-house
w as a garden and a bubblin g m arble fountain, and o v e r th e stnesin
was a broken summer-house, to which am ateurs m ay a sc e n d , for the
purpose o f exam ining the river ; and all round the plan e-trees plenty
o f stools for those w ho were in clined to sit and drink sw eet thick
coffee, or co o l lem onade m a d e , o f fresh green citrons. T h e master
o f the house, dressed in a w hite turban and light blu e p elisse, lolled
under the coffee-house a w n in g ; the slave in white with a crimson
striped jack et, his face as b la ck as ebony, brought us p ipes and
lem on ad e again, and returned to his station a t the coffee-house,
w here he curled his b la ck legs togeth er, and began sin g in g out o f
THE CARA VAN BRIDGE.
401
h is flat nose to the thrum m ing o f a lo n g guitar with wire strings.
T h e instrum ent was not bigger than a soup-ladle, with a long straight
han dle, but its m usic pleased the p erfo rm er; for his eyes rolled
shining about, and his head wagged, and he grinned with an innocent
in tensity o f enjoym ent that did one go o d to lo o k a t A n d there
w as a friend to share his p le a su re : a T u rk dressed in scarlet, and
co ve re d all over with daggers and pistols, sat leaning forward on his
little stool, rockin g about, and grinning quite as eagerly as the b la ck
m instrel. A s he sang and w e listened, figures o f w om en bearing
p itchers w ent passing over the R om an bridge, Avhich w e saw betw een
th e large trunks o f the p la n e s ; or gray forms o f cam els were seen
stalkin g across it, the string p receded b y the little don key, w ho is
alw ays here their long-eared conductor.
T h e se are very hum ble incidents o f travel. W herever the steam
b o a t touches the shore adventure retreats into the interior, and what
is ca lled rom ance vanishes. It w on’t bear the vulgar g a z e ; or rather
the light o f com m on d ay puts it out, and it is o n ly in the dark that it
shines at all. T h e re is no cursing and insulting o f G iaours now. I f
a C o c k n e y looks or behaves in a particularly ridiculous w ay, the little
T u rk s com e out and laugh at him. A L on d o n er is no longer a
spittoon for true b e lie v e r s : and now that dark H ass’a n sits in his
divan and drinks cham pagne, and Selim has a F ren ch w atch, and
Z u le ik a perhaps takes M orrison’s pills, Byronism becom es absurd
in stead o f sublim e, and is o n ly a foolish expression o f C o ck n e y
w on der. T h e y still occasion ally beat a m an for go in g into a m osque,
b u t this is alm ost the o n ly sign o f ferocious vitality left in the T u rk
o f the M editerranean coast, and strangers m ay enter scores o f
m o sq u es w ithout m olestation. I'h e paddle-w heel is the great con
queror.
W h erever the captain cries “ Stop h e r ! ” C ivilizatio n stops,
a n d lands in the ship’s boat, and m akes a perm anent acquaintance
w ith the savages on shore. W h o le hosts o f crusaders have passed
a n d died, and butchered here in vain. B u t to m anufacture European
iro n into pikes and helm ets was a w aste d f m e t a l: in the shape o f
^piston-rods and fum ace-pokers it is irresistible; and I think an
a lle g o ry m ight b e m ade show ing how m uch stronger com m erce is
th a n chivalry, and finishing with a grand im age o f M ahom et’s crescent
b e in g extinguished in F u lto n ’s boiler.
T h is I thought w as the m oral o f the day’s sights and adventures.
W e p u lled o ff to the steam er in the afternoon— the In b at blow ing
26
arrow, aim me (iisc(
relislicd the joke (.
board who did ikA ^
had received papers
victory at Isley, and
little trium])h at sea.
That night we roi
the coast of Troy wa
looking mound that i
and not more i)ictur»
Thames, Then we p
mouth of the Dardanc
as smooth as at Putn
thought of seeing Co
board all the way from
a guitar, who had pas
instrument about mid-d
so divinely that the lad
books. He whistled a
men began whirling n
dance with much agili
tinued an unabated whi
his coat, produced a
performed it with tremc
gay and happy— made
(
403
CHAPTER
)
V II.
CONSTANTINOPLE.
W hen w e rose at sunrise to see the fam ous entry to C onstantinople,
w e found, in the p lace o f the city and the sun, a bright white fog,
w hich hid b oth from sight, and w hich o n ly disappeared as the vessel
a d van ced towards the G o ld en H orn. T h e re the fog cleared o ff as it
w ere b y flakes, and as yo u see gauze curtains lifted away, one b y one,
before a great fairy scene at the theatre. T h is w ill give idea enough o f
th e f o g ; the difficulty is to describe the scene afterwards, w hich w as
in truth the great fairy scene, than w hich it is im possible to co n ceive
an yth in g m ore brilliant and m agn ificen t
I can ’t go to an y m ore
rom an tic p lace than D rury L an e to draw m y sim iles from— D ru ry
L a n e , such as w e used to see it in our youth, w hen to our sight the
g ra n d last pictures o f the m elodram a or pantom im e w ere as magni
ficen t as an y objects o f nature we have seen with m aturer eyes. W ell,
th e view o f C onstantinople is as fine as an y o f Stanfield’s best
th eatrica l pictures, seen at the best period o f youth, w hen fan cy had
a ll the bloom on her— w hen all the heroines w ho danced before the
s c e n e appeared as ravishing beauties, w hen there shone an unearthly
sp len d o u r about B aker and D idd ear— and the sound o f the bugles
a n d fiddles, and the cheerful clang o f the cym bals, as the scen e
u n ro lled , and the gorgeous procession m eandered trium phantly
th rou gh it— caused a thrill o f pleasure, and aw akened an innocent
fu ln ess o f sensual enjoym ent that is o n ly given to boys.
T h e above sentence contains the follow ing p ro p o sitio n s:— T h e
en jo ym en ts o f b oyish fan cy are the m ost intense and delicious in the
w orld . Stanfield’s panoram a used to b e the realization o f the m ost
in ten se youthful fancy. I puzzle m y brains and find no better like
n ess for the p lace. T h e view o f Constantinople resem bles the ne
plus ultra o f a Stanfield dioram a, w ith a glorious accom panim ent o f
m usic, spangled houris, warriors, and w inding processions, feasting
th e eyes and the soul w ith light, splendour, and harm ony. I f yo u
w ere n ever in this w ay during your youth ravished at the play-house,
o f course the w hole com parison is u s e le s s : and yo u h a ve n o idea.
..« .i iic^vd
a u ic
the Mostjiie of St. Sc
height, measuring fron
ing the dome to the r
is one luindred and tw
seven in number— am
the contrar)': yet who
proper names, and caL
done by giving the age
the river, the names ol
fancy, which pooh-pooh:
foot-rule ? Enough sa
whenever I am uncertc
fight for it); it is a scene
ficcnt, and cheerful beyc
combination of city and j
with the healthiest breeze
and most cheerful sky.
It is proper, they say
any of the various qua
magnificent on inspcctio
cn masse from the waters
you see a group of peasa
supj)ose that they are al
have no rags, and the w
thp
*'
CONSTANTINOPLE.
405
thought the w ooden houses far from b ein g disagreeable objects,
sights quite as surprising and striking as the grand one w e had
ju s t left.
I d o n ot kn o w how the custom -house o f his H ighn ess is m ade
to b e a profitable speculation. A s I left the ship, a man p ulled after
m y boat, and ask ed for backsheesh, w hich was given him to the
a m ount o f about tw opence.
H e was a custom -house officer, b u t I
d o u b t w hether this sum w hich he levied ever w ent to the revenue.
I can fancy the scene about the quays som ewhat to resem ble the
riv er o f L on d o n in olden tim es, before coal-sm oke had darken ed the
w h o le city w ith soot, and w hen, accordin g to the old writers, there
re a lly was bright weather.
T h e fleets o f caiques bustling alon g the
sh o re, or scudding over the blue water, are beautiful to look a t : in
H o lla r ’s print L on d o n river is so studded o ver w ith w herry-boats,
w h ich bridges and steam ers have since destroyed.
H ere the caique
is still in full p e rfe ctio n : there are thirty thousand b oats o f the kin d
p ly in g betw een the c itie s ; every boat is neat, and trim ly carved and
p a in t e d ; and I scarcely saw a m an pulling in one o f them that w as
n o t a fine specim en o f his race, braw ny and brow n, w ith an open
ch e s t and a handsom e face.
T h e y w ear a thin shirt o f exceed in gly
lig h t co tton , w hich leaves their fine brow n lim bs full p la y ; and w ith
a purple sea for a back-ground, every one o f these dashing boats
form s a brilliant and glittering picture.
Passengers squat in the
in sid e o f the b o a t ; so that as it passes you see little m ore than the
h e ad s o f the true believers, w ith their red fez an d blue tassel, and
th a t placid gravity o f expression w hich the sucking o f a tobacco-pipe
is sure to giv e to a man.
T h e Bosphorus is enlivened b y a m ultiplicity o f other kinds o f
c r a f t T h ere are the dirty men-of-war’s boats o f the R ussians, w ith
u n w ashed, m angy c r e w s ; the great ferry-boats carrying hundreds o f
p assen gers to the v illa g e s ; the m elon-boats p iled up w ith enorm ous
g o ld e n fru it; his E x celle n cy the P ash a’s boat, w ith tw elve m en
b e n d in g to ffleir o a r s ; and his H ighn ess’s own caique, with a head
lik e a serpent, and eight-and-tw enty tugging oarsm en, that go es
sh o o tin g b y am idst the thundering o f the cannon.
Ships and
steam ers, w ith b la ck sides and flaunting colours, are m oored every
w here, show ing their flags, R ussian and E nglish, A ustrian, A m erican ,
a n d G r e e k ; and alon g the quays coun try ships from the B la ck Sea o r
th e islands, w ith high carved poop s and bows, such as yo u see in th e
m e Deauty of this .
and isn’t that the be
We were lodged;
been made famous (
a work for which a
battling, and which 1
polished lawyer, ou
passages that he fean
after perusing it with
“ Aut Diabolus aut **all) excited a feeling (
godlike, impartial, st
chivalrous Tartar, is tr
like of landlords, a gi
appearance than most
pipes on his house-top
palace to the water, a
We confronted Misseri,
him, that it was “ aut
secret; I will never brea
The last good descr
Mary Wortley Montagu’s
painted at least a hundrec
may be attempted by a .
Turkish bath is certainlv
A TURKISH BATH.
407
to another, ornam ented w ith profuse draperies o f tow els and blue
cloths, for the use o f the frequenters o f the place. A ll round the
room and the galleries w ere m atted inclosures, fitted with numerous
n ea t beds and cushions for reposin g on, where lay a dozen o f true
b elievers sm oking, or sleeping, or in the h ap py half-dozing state. I
w as led up to one o f these beds, to rather a retired com er, in con
sideration o f m y m o d e sty ; and to the n ext b ed presently cam e a
d a n cin g dervish, w ho forthw ith began to prepare for the bath.
W h en the dancin g dervish had taken o ff his yellow sugar-loaf cap,
h is gow n, shawl, & c., he w as arrayed in two large blue c lo t h s ; a w hite
o n e b ein g throw n over his shoulders, and another in the shape o f a
tu rb an plaited n eatly round his h e a d ; the garm ents o f w hich he
d iv e ste d him self w ere folded up in another linen, and n eatly put by.
I b e g leave to state I w as treated in precisely the sam e m anner as
th e dancing dervish.
T h e reverend gen tlem an then put on a p air o f w ooden pattens,
w h ich elevated him abou t six inches from the g ro u n d ; and w alked
d o w n the stairs, and padd led across the m oist m arble floor o f the
h a ll, and in at a little door, b y the w hich also T itm arsh entered.
B u t I had n on e o f the professional agility o f the dancin g d e rv is h ;
I staggered about very ludicrously upon the high w ooden p a tte n s ;
a n d should h a ve b een dow n on m y nose several times, had not the
d ragom an and the m aster o f the bath supported m e down the stairs
a n d across th e hall. D ressed in three large cotton napkins, w ith a
w h ite turban round m y head, I thought o f P a ll M a ll w ith a sort o f
desp air. I passed the little door, it was closed beh in d m e— I was in
th e dark— I couldn ’t speak th e language— in a w hite turban. M o n
D ie u ! what, was go in g to happen !
T h e dark room was the tepidarium , a m oist o ozin g arched den,
w ith a ligh t fain tly stream ing from an orifice in the dom ed ceiling.
Y e lls o f frantic laughter and song cam e boom ing and clanging through
t h e echoing arches, the doors clapp ed to w ith lo u d reverberations.
I t was the laughter o f the follow ers o f M ahound, rollick in g and
ta k in g their pleasure in th e p u b lic bath. 1 could n ot g o into that
p l a c e : I swore I w ould n o t ; th ey prom ised m e a p riv ate room , and
t h e dragom an left me. M y a go n y at parting from that C hristian
c a n n o t b e described.
W h en yo u get into the suârium, or h ot room , your first sensa
tio n s o n ly o ccu r abou t h a lf a m inute after entrance, w hen you feel
about ten minutes ;
disposes the mind to
but let any delie;
on lookiiyi^" uj) out
cx len d cd before me.
exaggerated by them
grinning in the m ost 1
a horsehair glove. I
w liich echoed through
large and bright, liis
excep t a bristling top-I
T h is description, I
it will be go in g into Iv
is the m ost singular, th<
m y love, you will not tl
T h is grinning man be)
brush. W hen he has
expirin g under a scjuirl
is clone, he rcapjiears w
o f lather, in the inidsl
W hirtcr’s flaxen w ig th
laughed a t
Just as yo
w ig is dashed into youi
for five m inutes you
suds are frnfL’*— -
CONSTANTINOPLE.
409
b e e n robed in shawls and turbans as before. Y o u are laid g en tly on
th e reposing b e d ; som ebody brings a narghile, w hich tastes as
to b a c c o m ust taste in M ahom et’s P a r a d is e ; a co o l sw eet dream y
la n g u o r takes possession o f the purified fra m e ; and h a lf an hour o f
s u c h delicious laziness is spent over the p ipe as is unknow n in
E u ro p e , w here
vu lgar
p rejudice has
m ost
sham efully m aligned
in d o le n ce, calls it foul nam es, such as the father o f all evil, and the
l ik e ; in fact, does not kn o w how to educate idleness as those honest
T u r k s do, and the fruit w hich, w hen properly cultivated , it bears.
T h e after-bath state is the m ost delightful condition o f laziness I
e v e r knew , and I tried it w herever w e w ent afterwards on our little
to u r. A t Sm yrna the w hole business was m uch inferior to the m ethod
e m p lo y e d in the capital. A t C airo, after the soap, you are plun ged
in to a sort o f stone coffin, full o f water, w hich is all b ut boiling.
T h is has its charm s ; but I could not relish the E gyptian sham pooing
A hideous old blind man (but very dexterous in his art) tried to
b re a k m y b a ck and dislocate m y shoulders, but I could n ot see the
p lea su re o f the p ractice ; and another fellow began tick lin g the soles
o f m y feet, but I rew arded him with a k ic k that sent him o ff the
b e n ch . T h e pure idleness is the best, and I shall never en jo y such
in E urope again.
V ic to r H u go , in his fam ous travels on the R h in e, visiting C o lo gn e,
g iv e s a learned accoun t o f w hat he
did/It see there.
rem a rka b le catalogu e o f sim ilar ob jects at Constantinople.
I h ave a
I didn ’t
s e e the dancin g dervishes, it w as R a m a z a n ; n or the how ling dervishes
a t Scutari, it w as R a m a z a n ; nor the interior o f St. Sophia, n or the
w o m en ’s apartm ent o f the Seraglio, n or the fashionable prom enade at
th e Sw eet W aters, alw ays because it w as R a m a z a n ; during w hich
p e r io d the dervishes dance and howl b ut rarely, their legs and lungs
b e in g unequal to m uch exertion during a fast o f fourteen hours. O n
a c c o u n t o f the sam e h o ly season, the royal palaces and m osques are
s h u t ; and though the va lley o f the Sw eet W aters is there, no one
g o e s to w a lk ; the peop le rem aining asleep all day, and passing the
n ig h t in feasting and carousing. T h e m inarets are illum inated at this
s e a s o n ; even the hum blest m osque at Jerusalem , or Jaffa, m ounted a
fe w circles o f din gy la m p s ; those o f the capital w ere handsom ely
lig h te d w ith m any festoons o f lam ps, w hich had a fine effect from the
w ater.
1 n eed n o t m ention other and constant illum inations o f the
c ity , w hich innum erable travellers have described— I m ean the fires.
in the midst of his
obliged to tic it ro\
midniglit :it the ( iirs
Wc saw his High
Avhcn he came to th(
of the most picture*
streets Avere crowded
lined A\ith the squat i
sturdy police, Avith I
driving off the faithfi
Avhich their Emi)eror
unjust i>artiality, 1 the
Before the august arr,
pashas Avent by Avitli
actiA'e, insolent, and hi
his Highness’s black ei
Avhich separated before
The common a v o it
yakmac, a muslin chii
face look the sam e; I
generally visible, and, i
The jolly negresses w
means so particular al
black faces, and they 1
THE SULTAN.
411
I am alm ost forgetting his H ighn ess the Sultan. A b o u t a hundred
gu ns w ere fired o ff a t clum sy intervals from the E sp lan ade facin g the
B osphorus, w arning us that the m onarch had set o ff from his Sum m er
P a la ce, and was on the w ay to his grand canoe.
A t last that vessel
m a d e its a p p ea ran ce; the ban d struck up his favourite a ir ; his
caparison ed horse w as led dow n to the shore to receive h im ; the
eunuchs, fat pashas, colonels, and officers o f state gathering round as
th e Com m an der o f the Faithfu l m ounted. I had the in describable
h ap pin ess o f seeing him at a v e ry short distance. T h e Padishah, or
F a th e r o f all the Sovereigns on earth, has n ot that m ajestic air w hich
s o m e sovereigns possess, and w hich m akes the beh older’s eyes w ink,
a n d his kn ees trem ble under h i m : h e has a b la ck beard, and a
h a n d so m e w ell-bred face, o f a F rench c a s t ; he looks like a youn g
F r e n c h roue w orn out b y debau ch ; his eyes bright, w ith b la ck rings
ro u n d t h e m ; his ch e e l« p ale and hollow . H e w as lo llin g on his
h o rse as i f he could hardly ho ld him self on the saddle : or as i f his
c lo a k , fastened w ith a blazin g diam ond clasp on his breast, and
fa llin g o ver his horse’s tail, pulled him back. B u t the handsom e
sa llo w face o f the R efu ge o f the W orld lo o k ed d e cid ed ly interesting
a n d intellectual. I h ave seen m any a yo u n g D o n Juan at Paris,
b e h in d a counter, w ith such a beard and co u n te n a n c e ; the flame o f
p assio n still burning in his hollow eyes, w hile on his dam p brow w as
stam p ed the fatal m ark o f prem ature decay.
T h e m an w e saw
ca n n o t live m any summers.
W om en and w ine are said to h ave
b ro u gh t the Z ilullah to this s t a t e ; and it is w hispered b y the drago
m an s, or laquais-de-place, (from w hom travellers at C on stan tin op le
g e n era lly g e t their p olitical inform ation,) that the Sultan’s m other
a n d his m inisters conspire to k eep him plun ged in sensuality, that
th e y m ay govern the kin gdom accordin g to their own feincies.
M r . U rquhart, I am sure, thinks that L o rd Palm erston has som ething
t o d o w ith the business, an d drugs the Sultan’s cham pagne for the
b en efit o f R ussia.
A s the P o n tiff o f M ussulm ans passed in to the m osque, a show er
o f petitions w as flung from the steps w here the crow d w as co llected ,
a n d o ver the heads o f the gendarm es in brown. A gen eral cry, as
fo r justice, rose u p ; an d one old ragged wom an cam e forw ard and
bu rst through the throng, how ling, and flinging abou t her lean arm s,
a n d baring her o ld shrunken breast. I n ever saw a finer action o f
tra g ic w oe, o r heard sounds m ore pitiful than those o ld passionate
tiic corner, I reasoned pleasantl)
enjoyed that secret selfish satih
better off than his neighbour. ‘
still (by courtesy) young : if you
and were a great prince, I would i
in you a m agnificent courtesy o f <
that only belongs to the sovereigi
an incom e, you think you could sj
gen ial hospitalities, k in d ly alms, so
o f g o o d heart, rew arding desert,
chasing pleasure, you think, you ro|
B u t fan cy bein g brought to the coi
U n iverse y o n d e r ; and recon cile y c
o n ly a farthing ru sh ligh t T h e crie
upon him as the sm iles o f the brig
can ’t stir abroad but those abom ic
deafenin g his ears. H e can ’t see th
a row o f fat pashas, and eunuchs, vi
ears can n ever b e regaled w ith a w
h on est laugh. T h e o n ly privilege o
b ut for a m onth in the year, at th
forced to fast for fifteen h o u r s ; and,
o f feeling hungry.”
Sunset during
m om ent o f p le a su re ; they say the
tim e, and as the mm ^
’
THE ROYAL MAUSOLEUM.
413
m e n ts o f his H ighn ess’s ladies, and actu ally heard them w hispering
a n d laughing behind the bars— a strange feeling o f curiosity cam e
o v e r som e ill-regulated m inds— ^just to h ave one peep, one look at all
t h o s e w ondrous beauties, singing to the dulcim ers, padd lin g in the
fo u n tain s, dancin g in the m arble halls, or lollin g on the golden
cu sh io n s, as the gaudy b la ck slaves brought pipes and coffee. T h is
tum ultuo u s m ovem ent w as calm ed b y thinking o f that dreadful
sta tem en t o f travellers, that in one o f the m ost elegant halls there is
a trap-door, on peeping below w hich you m ay see the Bosphorus
ru n n in g underneath, into w hich som e luckless b eauty is plunged
o cca sio n a lly , and the trap-door is shut, and the dancing and the
s in g in g , and the sm oking and the laughing go on as before. T h e y
s a y it is death to p ick up an y o f the sacks thereabouts, i f a stray one
sh o u ld float b y you.
T h e re were none any day w hen I passed,
at
leasty on the surface o f the water.
I t has been rather a fashion o f our travellers to apologize for
T u r k is h life, o f late, and paint glow ing, agreeable pictures o f m any
o f its institutions. T h e celebrated author o f “ Palm -L eaves ” (his
n am e is famous under the date-trees o f the N ile, and uttered w ith
re sp e ct beneath the tents o f the B edaw een,) has touchingly described
Ib ra h im Pasha’s paternal fondness, w ho cut o ff a b la ck slave’s head
fo r h avin g dropped and m aim ed one o f his c h ild re n ; and has penned
a m elodious panegyric q f “ T h e H arem ,” and o f the fond and
b eau tifu l duties o f the inm ates o f that p lace o f love, o bed ien ce, and
seclu sion . I saw, at the m ausoleum o f the late Sultan M ahm oud’s
fam ily, a go o d subject for a G hazul, in the true new O riental manner.
T h e se royal burial-places are the resort o f the pious M oslem s.
L a m p s are kep t burning th e r e ; and in the antecham bers, copies o f
th e K o ra n are provided for the use o f b e lie v e rs ; and you n ever pass
th e se cem eteries but you see T u rk s w ashing at the cisterns, previous
t o entering for prayer, or squatted on the benches, chanting passages
fro m the sacred volum e. Christians, I believe, are n ot adm itted, b u t
m a y lo o k through the bars, and see the coffins o f the defunct
m on archs and children o f the royal race. E a ch lies in his narrow
sarcophagus, w hich is com m only flanked
b y huge
candles, and
c o v e re d w ith a rich em broidered pall. A t the head o f each coffin
rise s a slab, with a gild ed in sc rip tio n ; for the princesses, the slab
is sim ple, n ot unlike our own m onum ental stones.
T h e head
sto n e s o f the tom bs o f the defunct princes are decorated with a
It.
iJic.sL* 'Acre tile tc
j;resent J.i-int o f the I
Ila lil PaoL.i. L ittle •
niali;:ne<l .vi.iliometan
Malimoud (m ay he rt
some spark o f human 1
agony of the i>oor bere
relented towards her,
another child, it shoul
Medjid (may his nam
whom we just saw ri<
whom he is said to ha
son. But she relied up
love, and hoped that
accursed hand tore this
it. The poor woman’s
and she died. But o
rebuked him as a perjur
the divine justice on hii
little fezzes.
Now I say this woi
The details are dramatic
a fine artist. If the m(
have been safe; that p
agitating the bosom of
THE CHILD-MURDERER.
is a m an and a father.
415
T h e re are m en and fathers to o in the much-
m a lign ed orient.
T h e n com es the secon d a ct o f the tragedy. T h e new hopes, the
fo n d yearnings, the terrified m isgivings, the tim id belief, and w eak
c o n fid e n c e ; the ch ild that is b o m — and dies sm iling p rettily— and
t h e m other’s heart is rent so, that it can love, or hope, or suffer n o
m o re.
A lla h is G o d !
She sleeps b y the little fezzes.
H a rk !
t h e guns are b oom ing o ver the water, and his H ighn ess is com in g
fro m his prayers.
A fter the m urder o f that little child, it seem s to m e one can
n e v e r lo o k w ith anything but horror upon the butcherly H e ro d w ho
o rd e re d i t
T h e death o f the seven ty thousand Janissaries ascends
t o historic dignity, and takes rank as war. B u t a great P rince and
L ig h t o f the U n iverse, w ho procures abortions and throttles little
b a b ies, dw indles aw ay into such a frightful insignificance o f crim e,
th a t those m ay respect him w ho will. I p ity their E xcellen cies the
A m bassad o rs, w ho are obliged to sm irk and cringe to such a rascal.
T o d o the T u rk s justice— and tw o days* w alk in C on stan tin ople w ill
s e ttle this fact as w ell as a year’s residence in the city— the p eop le do
n o t seem in the least anim ated b y this H erodian s p irit I n ever saw
m o re kindness to children than am ong all classes, m ore fathers
w alk in g about w ith little solem n M ahom etans in red caps and b ig
trousers, m ore business goin g on than in the to y quarter, and in the
A tm eid a n . A lth o u gh you m ay see there the T h e b a ic stone set up b y
th e Em peror T heod osiu s, and the bronze colum n o f serpents w hich
M u rra y says was brought from D elph i, b ut w hich m y guide inform ed
m e was the very one exh ibited b y M oses in the wilderness, y et I
fo u n d the exam ination o f these antiquities m uch less pleasant than to
lo o k at the m any troops o f children assem bled on the plain to p l a y ;
a n d to w atch them as they w ere dragged about in little queer arobas^
o r painted carriages, w hich are there kep t for hire. I h ave a picture
o f one o f them n ow in m y e y e s : a little green oval m achine, w ith
flow ers rudely painted round th e w indow , out o f w hich two sm iling
h e ad s are peeping, the pictures o f happiness. A n old, good-hum oured,
gray-bearded T u rk is tugging th e c a r t ; and behind it w alks a la d y in
a y ak m ac and y ello w slippers, and a b la ck fem ale slave, grinning
a s usual, towards w hom the little coach-riders are looking. A small,
sturdy, barefooted M ussulm an is exam ining the cart w ith som e feelings
o f e n v y ; h e is too p o or to piurchase a ride for him self and th e round-
gates, with wh i c h t
A tm eidan y o u h a \ e
moscgie whirl) stnu k
tiioiis— the M o s ' j u e '
minarets and its beau
court without molcsta
o f the mos(]ue, liavc a
audience o f wom en wi
the mats, and listen in:
and speaking with gre:
sense o f a few ^\’ords
danger o f gadding abo
too much talking ; and
inform ation from him r
tall T u rk clapped my ir
b e off.
A lth ough the la d ie s :
in the world, yet it ap])er
coverings w hich tliey avc
with diam ond rings on 1
logw ood colour, cam e tc
w ith her son, a young A,
frock-coat, with a huge ta
solem n dem eanour. T lic
his contortions
i
MODESTY.
417
o b lig e d to take m y leave, though w ith sincere regret, for the little lord
h a d ju st squeezed h im self into an attitude than w hich I n ever saw
a n y th in g m ore ludicrous in G eneral T o m T hum b. W hen the ladies
o f the Seraglio com e to that bazaar with their cortege o f infernal b la ck
eun u ch s, strangers are told to m ove on briskly. I saw a b evy o f about
e ig h t o f these, with their aides-de-cam p; but they were w rapped up,
a n d lo o ked ju st as vulgar and ugly as the other wom en, and were not,
I suppose, o f the m ost beautiful so rt T h e poor devils are allow ed to
c o m e out, half-a-dozen times in the year, to spend their little w retched
allo w an ce o f p ocket-m oney in purchasing trinkets and to b acco ; all the
re s t o f the tim e they pursue the beautiful duties o f their existence in
th e w alls o f the sacred harem.
T h o u g h strangers are not allow ed to see the interior o f the cage in
w h ich these birds o f Paradise are confined, yet m any parts o f the
Sera glio are free to the curiosity o f visitors, w ho choose to drop a
b a ck sh eesh here and there. I landed one m orning at the Seraglio
p o in t from G alata, close b y an ancient pleasure-house o f the defunct
S u lt a n ; a vast broad-brim m ed pa\ilion, that looks agreeable enough
t o b e a dancing-room for ghosts now : there is another summer
h o u se , the G uide-book cheerfully says, w hither the Sultan goes to
sp o rt w ith his wom en and mutes. A regim ent o f infantry, vnth their
m u sic at their head, were m arching to exercise in the outer grounds
o f th e S e ra g lio ; and w e follow ed them, and had an opportunity o f
s e e in g their evolutions, and hearing their bands, upon a fine green
p la in under the Seraglio w alls, where stands one solitary colum n,
e re c te d in m em ory o f some triumph o f some B yzantian emperor.
T h e r e w ere three battalions o f the T urkish infantry exercising
h e r e ; and th e y seem ed to perform their evolutions in a very satis
fa c to r y m a n n e r: that is, they fired all together, and charged and halted
in v e ry straight lines, and bit o ff im aginary cartridge-tops w ith great
fiercen ess and regularity, and m ade all their ramrods ring to measure,
j u s t lik e so m any Christians. T h e men looked small, young, clum sy,
a n d ill-b u ilt; uncom fortable in their shabby European clo th e s ; and
a b o u t the legs, especially, seem ed exceed in gly w eak and ill-formed.
S o m e sco re o f m ilitary invalids were lolling i n . the sunshine, about a
fo u n ta in and a m arble summer-house that stand on the ground,
w a tc h in g their com rades’ manoeuvres (as i f they could never h ave
e n o u g h o f that delightful p a stim e ); and these sick were m uch better
ca re d for than their healthy com panions. E ach man had two dressing-
me great \N
ancient masonry,
oiithoii.ses, among
beautiful fre«iiientc
VVe could not catc
pleasure-grounds,
park, which is like\
plots and cottages,
English park, than •
the most stately in
were passing here
Macadamite mannci
just as they do in H
be the Sultan walking
to meet the ix)st-bag
The palace is nc
built without order,
ceeding Lights of the
domes which looked ]
As you examined the
they are not furnish*
a bit more elegantly
which we may be sure
establishment of his h
In the little stable
firp n o rt
—
THE SULTANAS^ PUFFS.
419
w ards, where m any hecatom bs are roasted daily, according to the
accoun ts, and where cookin g goes on with a savage H om eric gtaikdeur. Chim neys are despised in these prim itive h a lls ; so that the
roofs are b la ck w ith the sm oke o f hundreds o f furnaces, w hich
escapes through apertures in the dom es above. T h ese, too, give the
c h ie f light in the rooms, w hich streams downwards, and thickens and
m ingles with the sm oke, and so m urkily lights up hundreds o f swarthy
figures busy about the spits and the cauldrons. C lose to the door b y
w hich w e entered they were m aking pastry for the su ltan a s; and the
c h ie f pastrycook, who knew m y guide, invited us courteously to see
th e process, and partake o f the delicacies prepared for those charm ing
lips. H o w those sweet lips must shine after eating these p u ffs! First,
h u ge sheets o f dough are rolled out till the paste is about as thin as
silver p a p e r: then an artist forms the dough-muslin into a sort o f
drapery, curling it round and round in m any fancifiil and pretty
shapes, until it is all got into the circum ference o f a round m etal tray
in which it is baked. T h e n the cake is drenched in grease m ost
p ro fu s e ly ; and, finally, a quantity o f syrup is poured over it, w hen
th e delectable mixture is com plete.
T h e moon-faced ones are said
to devour immense quantities o f this wholesom e f o o d ; and, in fact,
are eating grease and sweetmeats from morning till n ig h t I don’t
lik e to think what the consequences m ay be, or allude to the agonies
w hich the delicate creatures m ust inevitably suffer.
T h e good-natured ch ie f pastrycook filled a copper basin with
greasy p u ffs; and, dipping a dubious ladle into a large c a u ld ro n ,.
containing several gallons o f syrup, poured a liberal portion over the
ca k es, and invited us to e a t O ne o f the tarts was quite enough for
m e : and I excused m yself on the plea o f ill-health from im bibing
a n y m ore grease and sugar.
B ut m y com panion, the dragom an,
finished some forty puffs in a twinkling. T h e y slipped down his
o p en ed jaw s as the sausages do dow n clowns’ throats in a pantomime.
H is m oustaches shone with grease, and it dripped down his beard and
fingers. W e thanked the smiling ch ie f pastrycook, and rewarded him
handsom ely for the tarts.
It is som ething to have eaten o f the
dainties prepared for the ladies o f the harem ; but I think M r. C o ck le
ought to get the names o f the ch ief sultanas am ong the exalted patrons
o f his antibilious pills.
F ro m the kitchens w e passed into the second court o f the Seraglio,
b e yo n d w hich is death.
T h e G uide-book only hints at the dangers
of the divan, “ la
Moorish manner,
and the ambassac
horseback, attired
I believe, discontir
to receive any bad
his own nation. (
the Seraglio; none
book says: it is im\
About this doo
pages, with lazy lool
himself sulkily on a
eunuch, with little
chest, and two spraw
his bloated old bod
friend the dragoman
had just been devoi
the poor worthy fellc
of his salutation, and
The palace of th
hall of the ambassad
and ichoglans, have j
Most of the marble
guards are shabby,
are
A L A D Y IN A BROUGHAM.
421
m agnificent plane-tree, o f prodigious dimensions and fabulous age
accordin g to the g u id e s ; St. Sophia towers in the further d is ta n ce ;
and from here, perhaps, is the best view o f its light swelling domes
and beautiful proportions.
T h e Porte itself, too, forms an excellen t
subject for the sketcher, if the officers o f the court will perm it him
to design it. I m ade the attem pt, and a couple o f T urkish beadles
lo o ked on very good-naturedly for some tim e at the progress o f the
d raw in g ; but a good number o f other spectators speedily joined
them , and made a crowd, w hich is not permitted, it w ould seem, in
the S e ra g lio ; so I was told to p ack up m y portfolio, and rem ove the
cause o f the disturbance, and lost m y drawing o f the Ottom an Porte.
I don’t think 1 have anything more to say about the city w hich
has not been m uch better told b y graver travellers. I, with them,
co u ld see (perhaps it was the preaching o f the politicians that w arned
m e o f the fact) that we are looking on at the last days o f an e m p ire;
a n d heard m any stories o f w eakness, disorder, and oppression.
I even saw a T urkish lady drive up to Sultan A c h n ie fs m osque in a
brougham. Is not that a subject to m oralize upon ? A n d m ight one
n o t draw endless conclusions from it, that the kn ell o f the T urkish
dom in ion is ru n g ; that the European spirit and institutions once
adm itted can never be rooted out a g a in ; and that the scepticism
p revalen t am ongst the higher orders must descend ere very long to
th e lo w e r ; and the cry o f the m uezzin firom the m osque becom e a
m ere cerem ony ?
But as I only stayed eight days in this place, and kn ew not a
sy lla b le o f the language, perhaps it is as w ell to pretermit any
^ sq u isitio n s about the spirit o f the people. I can only say that they
lo o k ed to be very good-natured, handsom e, and l a z y ; that the
w om en’s yellow slippers are very u g ly ; that the kabobs at the shop
hard b y the R o p e Bazaar are very hot and g o o d ; and that at the
A rm enian cook-shops they ser\'e you delicious fish, and a stout raisin
w ine o f no small merit. T h ere cam e in, as w e sat and dined there at
sunset, a go o d old T u rk, who called for a penny fish, and sat dow n
un der a tree very hum bly, and ate it with his own bread. W e m ade
that jo lly old M ussulm an happy with a quart o f the raisin w in e ; and
his eyes tw inkled with every fresh glass, and he w iped his old beard
d eligh ted , and talked and chirped a good deal, and, I dare say, told
us the w hole state o f the empire. H e was the only M ussulm an w ith
w hom I attained any degree o f intim acy during m y stay in Constanti-
remembering eve
is an idea of s
Vauxhall in the d
your own great .
conclusions, that 1
too clever to reqiiii
as is done for chil
that the govemmen
wrinkled, and as fe<
the sun ; that whei
Achmet, I felt that l,
crescent will go out I
before the sun.
(
423
)
C H A P T E R V III .
RHODES.
T h e sailing o f a vessel direct for Jaffa brought a great num ber o f
passengers together, and our decks were covered with Christian, Jew ,
an d H eathen. In the cabin w e were P o les and Russians, Frenchm en,
G erm ans, Spaniards, and G r e e k s ; on the d eck were squatted several
little colonies o f people o f different race and persuasion. T h ere was
a G reek Papa, a noble figure with a flowing and venerable white beard,
w h o had been living on bread-and-water for I don’t kn ow how m any
years, in order to save a little m oney to m ake the pilgrim age to
Jerusalem .
T h ere were several fam ilies o f Jewish R abbis, who
celebrated their “ feast o f tabernacles ” on b o a r d ; their ch ie f men per
form ing worship tw ice or thrice a day, dressed in their pontifical
habits, and bound with p h y la cte rie s: and there were T urks, w ho had
their own cerem onies and usages, and w isely kep t a lo o f firom their
neighbours o f Israel.
T h e dirt o f these children o f captivity exceed s all possibility o f
d e sc rip tio n ; the profusion o f stinks w hich they raised, the grease o f
their venerable garm ents and faces, the horrible messes co o ked in the
filth y pots, and devoured with the n asty fingers, the squalor o f mats,
pots, old bedding, and foul carpets o f our H ebrew friends, could
h ardly be painted b y Swift, in his dirtiest m ood, and cannot be, o f
course, attem pted b y m y tim id and gen teel pen. W h at would they
say in Baker Street to some sights w ith which our new friends favoured
u s ? W hat would your ladyship have said if you had seen the
interesting G reek nun com bing her hair over the cabin — com bing itw ith
th e natural fingers, and, averse to slaughter, flinging the delicate little
intruders, w hich she found in the course o f her investigation, gen tly
in to the great cabin ? O ur attention was a go o d deal occupied in
w atchin g the strange w ays and custom s o f the various com rades
o f ours.
T h e Jew s were refugees from P oland , go in g to lay their bones to
rest in the valley o f Jehoshaphat, and perform ing w ith exceed in g
rigour the offices o f their religion. A t m orning and evening you w ere
little iron boxes, with the sacret
the lads there w ere som e beautif
hum ble servant discovered one
w hen first em erging from her I
afterwards, until each succeeding
d e licate cheeks o f hers. W e h
course o f the passage from C<
w ashed over anH ------
y £ W PILGRIMS.
425
W lie n we w ent to purchase in the bazaars, after offering m oney for
ch a n ge, the honest fellow s w ould frequently keep b a ck several
p iastres, and w hen urged to refund, would give m ost d is m a lly : and
b e g in doling out penny b y penny, and utter pathetic prayers to their
custo m er not to take any more. I bought five or six pounds’ worth
o f Broussa silks for the w om enkind, in the bazaar at Constantinople,
a n d the rich A rm enian w ho sold them begged for three-halfpence to
p a y his boat to G alata. T h e re is som ething n aif and am using in this
exh ibition o f cheatery— this sim ple cringing, and w heedling, and
passion for twopence-halfpcnny. It was pleasant to give a m illionnaire
b e g g a r an alms, and laugh in his face and say, “ T here, D ives, there’s
a penny for y o u : b e happy, you p oor old swindling scoundrel, as
far as a penny go es.” I used to w atch these Jews on shore, and
m akin g bargains with one another as soon as they cam e on b o a r d ;
th e battle betw een vendor and purchaser was an a go n y — they
shrieked, clasped hands, appealed to one another p a ssio n a tely ; their
handsom e, noble faces assum ed a look o f w oe— quite an heroic
eagerness and sadness about a farthing.
A m bassadors from our H ebrew s descended at R h od es to bu y
provisions, and it w as curious to see their d e a lin g s : there was our
ven erable R ab b i, who, robed in white and silver, and bendin g over
his b o o k at the m orning service, lo o ked like a patriarch, and whom I
saw chaffering about a fowl with a brother R h od ian Israelite. H o w
th e y fought over the b o d y o f that lean a n im a l! T h e street swarm ed
w ith Jew^s: gogglin g eyes looked out from the old carved casem ents—
h o o k e d noses issued from the low antique doors— ^Jew bo ys driving
d o n keys, H ebrew m others nursing children, dusky, tawdry, ragged
y o u n g beauties and m ost venerable gray-bearded fathers were all
ga th ered round about the affair o f the h e n ! A n d at the same
tim e that our R a b b i was arranging the price o f it, his children w ere
instructed to procure bundles o f green branches to decorate the^ ship
d u rin g their feast.
T h in k o f the centuries during w hich these
w onderful people have rem ained u n ch a n g e d ; and how, from the days
o f J aco b downwards, they have believed an d swindled !
T h e R h od ian Jews, with their genius for filth, have m ade their
quarter o f the noble, desolate old town, the m ost ruinous and
w retch ed o f all. T h e escutcheons o f the proud old knights are still
ca rv ed over the doors, w hence issue these m iserable greasy hucksters
a n d pedlars.
T h e T u rks respected these em blem s o f the brave
DUiJclings w h o se sta te ly an
b e tte r w ith o n e ’s n o tio n s
g a te s are w a rlik e a n d stron
th a t
th e y m u st
have
bee
T h e edifices appear in aln
were in the occupation o f
have this advantage over m
sand times more picturesqi
m ent itself, and built fine ca
to judge from G ibraltar an
than the m odem m ilitary
fighting, w ithout in the leai
hu ge artillery with w hich tl
b a stio n s ; and the touch-hoL
covered w ith rusty old corsel
hundred years ago. T h e T u
to b e w aiting their turn o f
R h o d es one is strangely afl
double decay. F o r instance,
n oble houses, surmounted b>
w ho lived there, and praye<
T u r k s ; and w ere the most §
m ade vow s o f chastity, and
hum ility, w ould adm it none 1
recom m ending themselvp«
M AHOM ETANISM BAN K RU PT
En glishm an despises a Frenchm an.
427
N o w the fam ous house is let
t o a shabby m erchant, w ho has his little beggarly shop in the b a z a a r ;
t o a small officer, who ekes out his w retched pension b y swindling,
a n d who gets his p ay in b a d coin. M ahom etanism pays in pew ter
n o w , in place o f silver and gold. T h e lords o f the w orld have run
t o seed.
T h e pow erless old sword frightens n ob o d y now — the
ste e l is turned to pew ter too, som ehow, and w ill no longer shear a
C h ristian head o ff any shoulders. In the Crusades m y w icked
sym pathies have alw ays been with the T urks. T h e y seem to m e
th e best Christians o f the t w o ; m ore humane, less brutally pre
sum ptuous about their own merits, and m ore generous in esteem ing
th e ir neighbours. A s far as I can get at the authentic story, Saladin
is a pearl o f refinem ent com pared to the brutal beef-eating R ich ard —
ab o u t whom Sir W alter Sco tt has led all the w orld astray.
"When shall w e have a real accoun t o f those tim es and heroes—
n o good-hum oured pageant, like those o f the Scott rom ances— ^but
a real authentic story to instruct and frighten honest people o f the
presen t day, and m ake them thankful that the grocer governs the
w o rld now in p lace o f the b a ro n ? M eanw hile a m an o f tender
feelin gs m ay b e pardoned for tw addling a little over this sad spectacle
o f the decay o f two o f the great institutions o f the world. K n igh t
h o o d is gon e— am en ; it expired with dignity, its face to the f o e :
an d old M ahom etanism is lingering about just ready to drop. B ut
it is unseem ly to see such a G rand Potentate in such a state o f
d e c a y : the son o f B ajazet Ilderim in so lv e n t; the descendants o f
th e Proph et bullied b y C alm ucs and E nglish and w hippersnapper
F re n c h m e n ; the Fountain o f M agn ificen ce done up, and o bliged to
co in pew ter ! T h in k o f the poor dear houris in Paradise, how sad
th e y m ust lo o k as the arrivals o f the F aithful becom e less and less
frequen t every day. I can fan cy the place beginning to w ear the
fatal V a u x h all look o f the Seraglio, and w hich has pursued m e e ver
sin ce I saw i t ; the fountains o f eternal w ine are beginning to run
rather dry, and o f a questionable liq u o r ; the ready-roasted-m eat
' tre e s m ay cry, “ C o m e eat m e,” every now and then, in a faint vo ice,
w ith ou t an y
in it— ^but the F aithful begin to doubt about the
q u a lity o f the victuals. O f nights you m ay see the houris sitting
s a d ly under them, darning their faded m u s lin s : A li, O m ar, and the
Im au m s are recon ciled and have gloom y co n su lta tio n s: and the
C h ie f o f the Faithful himself, the awful cam el-driver, the supernatural
shining mahogany, &c.,—
their trade, Avhile the ok
Church of St. John, con
with a ruined mosque insias much as time will let t
stir about the little p o r t ;
for the m ost part to be b«
that seem ed to have the va
I took, b y w ay o f guide,
shoem aker, who had ju st b(
fessed to speak b oth Arab
thought he m ight have lea
before he began his professi
kn ew about three w ords o f
occasion, as I w alked under
I
o f the noble old town. W e
through an ancient gate and
bab ly stood, and o f w hich tl
A ragged squad o f T urkish
couple o f bo ys on a don key
w om en flapping alon g in ye
under an antique carved port
his o s ie r s : a peaceful w ell c
drunk, and at w hich the do
him self—
A FIN E D AY.
429
o r w ater so m agnificently blue. T h e houses o f the people alon g the
s h o re were but poor tenem ents, w ith hum ble courtyards and g a rd e n s ;
b u t every fig-tree was gild ed and bright, as if it were in an H esperian
o r c h a r d ; the palms, planted here and there, rose with a sort o f halo
o f light round about th e m ; the creepers on the w alls quite dazzled
w ith the brilliancy o f their flowers and leaves ; the people la y in the
c o o l shadows, happy and idle, with handsom e solem n fa c e s ; n obo dy
s ee m ed to b e at w ork ; they only talked a very little, as if idleness
a n d silence were a condition o f the delightful shining atm osphere in
w h ich they lived.
W e w ent down to an old m osque b y the sea-shore, w ith a cluster
o f ancient dom es hard b y it, blazin g in the sunshine, and carved all
o v e r with nam es o f A llah, and titles o f old pirates and generals w ho
re p o se d there. T h e guardian o f the m osque sat in the garden-court,
u p o n a high w ooden pulpit, lazily w agging his bo d y to and fro, and
sin g in g the praises o f the Prophet gen tly through his nose, as the
b re e z e stirred through the trees overhead, and cast chequered and
ch a n gin g shadows over the paved court, and the little fountains, and
th e nasal psalm ist on his perch. O n one side was the m osque, into
w h ich you could see, with its white w alls and co o l m atted floor, and
quain t carved pulpit and ornaments, and n obody at prayers. In the
m id d le distance rose up the noble towers and battlem ents o f the
k n igh tly town, with the deep sea-line behind them.
I t really seem ed as i f everybody was to have a sort o f sober
cheerfulness, and must yield to indolence under this charm ing
atm osphere. I w ent into the courtyard b y the sea-shore (where a
fe w lazy ships were lying, with no one on board), and found it was
th e prison o f the place. T h e door was as w ide open as W estm inster
H a ll. Som e prisoners, one or two soldiers and functionaries, and
so m e prisoners* w ives, were lolling under an arcade b y a fo u n tain ;
o th er crim inals were strolling about here and there, their chains
clin kin g quite ch e e rfu lly : and they and the guards and officials cam e
u p chatting quite friendly together, and gazed languidly over the
portfolio, as I was endeavouring to get the likeness o f one or two o f
these com fortable malefactors. O n e old and w rinkled she-criminal,
w hom I had selected on account o f the peculiar hideousness o f her
countenance, covered it up with a dirty cloth, at w hich there was a
gen eral roar o f laughter am ong this good-hum oured auditory o f cut
throats, pickpockets, and policem en. T h e o n ly sym ptom o f a prison
friends would set them fre«
to m ove, the sentinels woi
them.
T h e com bined influem
had taken i>ossession o f u
A s soon as he received hi;
lay dow n b y a fountain nea
pocket-handkerchief. O the
sprawling in the boats, or 1
the coffee-houses o f the q i
e m p lo y m e n t; and the capta
several o f the passengers i
com pany, being idle with all
youn g m en w ent
but others, m ore
sure w ould not
Colossus him self
o ff to see t
susceptible
have movei
was takin g a
(
43 « )
CH APTER
THE
WHITE
IX .
SQUALL.
O n deck, beneath the awTiing,
I dozing lay and y a w n in g ;
I t was the gray o f da\ming,
Ere yet the sun a ro s e ;
A n d above the funnel’s roaring,
A n d the fitful w ind’s deploring,
I heard the cabin snoring
W ith universal nose.
I could hear the passengers snorting,
I envied their disporting,
V a in ly I was courting
T h e pleasure o f a doze.
So I lay, and w ondered w hy light
C am e not, and watched the twilight
A n d the glim m er o f the skylight.
T h a t shot across the deck ;
A n d the binnacle pale and steady.
A n d the dull glim pse o f the dead-eye,
A n d the sparks in fiery eddy.
T h a t whirled from the chim ney n e c k :
In our jo via l floating prison
T h e re was sleep from fore to mizen.
A n d never a star had risen
T h e hazy sky to speck.
Strange com pany w e h a rb o u red ;
W e’d a hundred Jew s to larboard.
U nw ashed, uncom bed, unbarbered,
Jew s black, and brow n, and g r a y ;
W ith terror it w ould seize ye.
A n d m ake your souls uneasy,
T o see those R ab b is greasy.
W h o did nought but scratch and p r a y :
433
THE WHITE SQUALL.
A n d the rushing w ater soaks all,
F rom the seamen in the fo’ksal
T o the stokers, whose black faces
P e er out o f their b e d -p la ce s;
A n d the captain he was bawling,
A\id the sailors pulling, h a u lin g ;
A n d the quarter-deck tarpauling
W as shivered in the sq u a llin g ;
A n d the passengers aw aken.
M ost pitifully sh a k e n ;
A n d the steward jum ps up, and hastens
F o r the necessary basins.
T h e n the G reeks they groaned and quivered.
A n d they knelt, arid m oaned, and shivered.
A s the plunging waters m et them.
A n d splashed and overset th e m ;
A n d they call in their em ergence
U p o n countless saints and v ir g in s ;
A n d their m arrowbones are bended.
A n d they think the w orld is ended.
A n d the T urkish wom en foPard
W ere frightened and behorror’d ;
A n d , shrieking and bewildering,
T h e m others clutched their ch ild re n ;
T h e m en sung, “ A lla h I lla h !
M ashallah B is m illa h ! ”
A s the warring waters doused them,
A n d splashed them and soused th e m ;
A n d they called upon the Pr6phet,
A n d thought but little o f i t
T h e n all the fleas in Jew ry
Jum ped up and bit like fu r y ;
A n d the progeny o f Jacob
D id on the m ain-deck w ake up
(I w ot those greasy R abbin s
W o u ld n ever p ay for c a b in s );
A n d each man m oaned and jab b ered in
H is filthy Jew ish gaberdine,
28
(
435
)
C H A P T E R X.
TELMESSUS. — BEYROUT.
T here should have been a poet in our com pany to describe that
charm ing little b ay o f G laucus, into w hich we entered on the 26th o f
Septem ber, in the first steam boat that ever disturbed its beautiful
waters.
Y o u can ’t put dow n in prose that delicious episode o f
natural p o etry ; it ought to b e done in a sym phony, full o f sweet
m elodies and swelling h arm o n ies; or sung in a strain o f clear crystal
iam bics, such as M iln es know s how to write. A mere map, drawn
in words, gives the -mind no notion o f that exquisite nature. W h at do
m ountains becom e in type, or rivers in M r. V iz e te ll/ s best brevier ?
H e re lies the sweet bay, gleam ing peaceful in the rosy su n sh in e;
green islands dip here and there in its w a te rs : purple mountains swell
circlin g round i t ; and towards them , rising firom the bay, stretches a
rich green plain, fruitful with herbs and various foliage, in the m idst
o f w hich the white houses twinkle. I can see a little minaret, and
som e spreading palm-trees ; but, beyon d these, the description w ould
answ er as w ell for B antry B ay as for M akri.
Y o u could write so
far, nay, m uch m ore particularly and grandly, without seeing the
p lace at all, and after reading Beaufort’s “ Caram ania,” w hich gives
you not the least notion o f i t
Suppose the great hydrographer o f the A dm iralty him self can ’t
describe it, w ho surv'eyed the p la c e ; suppose M r. Fellow es, w ho
discovered it afterwards— suppose, I say. Sir John Fellow es, K n t ,
ca n ’t do it (and I defy any man o f im agination to get an impression
o f T elm essus from his book)— can you, vain man, hope to try ? T h e
effect o f the artist, as I take it, ought to be, to p r ^ u c e upon his
hearer’s mind, b y his art, an effect som ething similar to that produced
o n his own b y the sight o f the natural o b je c t O n ly music, o r the
b e st poetry, can do this. K e a ts ’s “ O de to the Grecian U rn ” is the
b e st description I know o f that sweet, old, silent ruin o f Telm essus.
A fte r yo u have once seen it, the rem em brance remains with you, lik e
a tune from M ozart, w hich he seems to have caught out o f heaven,
a n d w hich rings sweet harm ony in your ears for ever after I
I t ’s a
H A U L PACHA.
437
little-go, bounded aw ay up the hill on w hich it lies to the ruin,
m easured the steps o f the theatre, and calculated the w idth o f the
s c e n e ; w hile others, less active, w atched them w ith telescopes from
th e ship’s sides, as they plunged in and out o f the stones and
hollow s.
T w o days after the scene w'as quite changed. W e were out o f sight
o f the classical country, and lay in St. G eorge’s Bay, behind a huge
m ountain, upon w hich St. G eorge fought the dragon, and rescued the
lo v e ly L a d y Sabra, the K in g o f B abylon ’s daughter. T h e T urkish
fleet was lyin g about us, com m anded b y that H a lil P a ch a w hose two
children the two last Sultans murdered. T h e crim son flag, with the
star and crescent, floated at the stern o f his ship. O ur diplom atist
p u t on his uniform and cordons, and paid his E xcelle n cy a visit. H e
sp ok e in rapture, w hen he returned, o f the beauty and order o f the
ship, and the urbanity o f the infidel admiral. H e sent us bottles o f
ancient Cyprus w ine to d r in k : and the captain o f her M ajesty’s
ship, “ T ru m p ,” alongside w hich we were lying, confirm ed that go o d
opinion o f the C ap itan Pash a w hich the reception o f the ab ove
present led us to entertain, b y relating m any instances o f his friend
liness and hospitalities. Captain G
said the T urkish ships w ere
as w ell m anned, as w ell kept, and as w ell manoeuvred, as an y vessels
in an y s e r v ic e ; and intim ated a desire to com m and a T urkish seventyfour, and a perfect willingness to fight her against a F rench ship o f
th e sam e size.
But I heartily trust he w ill neither em brace the
M ahom etan opinions, nor b e called upon to engage an y seventy-four
w hatever. I f he do, let us hope he w ill have his own men to fight
w ith. I f the crew o f the “ T rum p ” were all like the crew o f the
ca p ta in ’s boat, they need fear no two hundred and fifty men out o f
a n y country, with any Join ville at their head. W e were carried on
sh o re b y this boat. F o r tw o years, during w hich the “ T ru m p ” had
b e e n lying o ff Beyrout, none o f the men but these eight had ever set
fo o t on shore. M ustn’t it be a hap py life ? W e were landed at the
b u s y quay o f Beyrout, flanked b y the castle that the fighting old com
m o d o re h a lf battered down.
A lo n g the Beyrout quays civilization flourishes under the flags o f
th e consul, w hich are stream ing out over the yellow buildings in the
c le a r air. H ith er she brings from E ngland her produce o f marinestores and w oollens, her crockeries, her portable soups, and her bitter
ale. H ith er she has brought politeness, and the last m odes from
A PORTRAIT.
439
A n d before the ab ove authentic drawing could b e m ade, m any w ere
the stratagems the w ily artists were obliged to em ploy, to subdue the
shyness o f the little M ariam . In the first place, she w ould stand
behind the door (from w hich in the darkness her beautiful b la ck eyes
gleam ed out like penny ta p e r s ); nor could the entreaties o f her
brother and m am m a bring her from that hiding-place. In order to
con ciliate the latter, we began b y m aking a picture o f her too— ^that
is, n ot o f her, who was an enorm ous old fat wom an in yellow , quiver
in g all over with strings o f pearls, and necklaces o f sequins, and other
ornam ents, tlie w hich descended from her neck, and dow n her am ple
stom acher : we d id not depict that big old wom an, w ho w ould have
b e en frightened at an accurate representation o f her own en o rm ity;
b u t an ideal being, all grace and beauty, dressed in her costm ne,
a n d still sim pering before m e in m y sketch-book lik e a lady in a
b o o k o f fashions.
T h is portrait was shown to the old wom an, w ho handed it over to
t h e black cook, who, grinning, carried it to little M ariam — and the
resu lt was, that the young creature stepped forward, and su bm itted ;
a n d has com e over to Europe as you see.
wall of the jirincipal apartnu
name is borne by pretty Mar
The camels and the soldii
and awnings, which chequer,
shade, the alleys and markets
Beyrout in perfection; and ai
months with advantage and
added to the motley and pictu
the dress of the blue-veiled
solemnly through the markets,
their foreheads. For thousand
prophets wrote, these horns ha\
At night Captain Lewis ga\
“ Trump.” We had the “ Trum;
a grand sight it was to see the a
on the drum. Blue lights and r
our ship; which festive signals
“ Trump,” and from another Fn
They must have struck the
sent his secretary on board of m
And the worthy Turk had scarci
found himself seized round tl
officers, and whirling round the
ment, and the F” "-
A SYR IA N PRINCE.
441
I fear, w ill have occasion to doubt o f the honour o f the English
nation, after the foul treachery with which he was treated.
A m o n g the occupiers o f the little bazaar w atchboxes, vendors o f
em broidered handkerchiefs and other articles o f showy Eastern
haberdashery, was a good-looking, neat youn g fellow, w ho spoke
E n glish very fluently, and was particularly attentive to all the pas
sengers on board our ship. T h is gentlem an was not o n ly a pocketh an dkerch ief m erchant in the bazaar, but earned a further livelihood
b y letting out mules and d o n k e y s ; and he kept a small lodging-house,
or inn, for travellers, as w e were informed.
N o w onder he spoke go o d E nglish, and was exceed in gly polite
and well-bred ; for the worthy man had passed some tim e in E ngland,
and in the best society too. T h a t hum ble haberdasher at B eyro ut
h ad been a lion here, at the very best houses o f the great people,
an d had actually m ade his appearance at W indsor, w here he w as
received as a Syrian Prince, and treated with great hospitality b y
ro yalty itself.
I don ’t kn ow what w aggish propensity m oved one o f the officers
o f the “ T r u m p ” to say that there was an equerry o f his R o y a l
H igh n ess the P rince on board, and to point m e out as the dignified
personage in question. So the Syrian Prince was introduced to the
ro yal equerry, and a^great m any com plim ents passed betw een us. I
even had the audacity to state that on m y very last interview w ith
m y royal master, his R o y a l H ighness had said, “ C o lo n el Titm arsh,
w hen you go to Beyrout, you will m ake special inquiries regarding m y
interesting friend C o g ia H assan .”
P o o r C o gia H assan (I forget w hether that was his name, but it is
a s go o d as another) was overpow ered with this royal m e ssa g e ; and
w e had an intimate conversation together, at w hich the waggish
officer o f the “ Trum p ” assisted w ith the greatest glee.
But see the consequences o f d e c e it ! T h e n ext day, as w e w ere
gettin g under way, who should com e on board but m y friend the
Syrian Prince, m ost eager for a last interview w ith the W indsor
e q u e rry ; and he begged me to c a n y his protestations o f unalterable
fidelity to the gracious consort o f her M ajesty. N o r was this all.
C o g ia H assan actually produced a great b o x o f sweetm eats, o f w hich
he begged m y excellen cy to accept, and a little figure o f a doll
dressed in the costum e o f Lebanon.
T h e n the punishm ent o f
im posture began to be felt severely b y me. H o w to accep t the
(
443
CH APTER
)
X I.
A DAY AND NIGHT IN SYRIA.
W hen , after being for five whole weeks at sea, with a general belief
that at the end of a few days the marine malady leaves you for good,
you find that a brisk wind and a heavy rolling swell create exactly
the same inward effects which they occasioned at the very com
mencement of the voyage— ^you begin to fancy that you are unfairly
dealt w ith: and I, for my part, had thought of complaining to the
company of this atrocious violation of the rules of their prospectus;
but we were perpetually coming to anchor in various ports, at which
intervals of peace and good humour were restored to us.
O n the 3rd o f O cto b er our cable rushed w ith a huge rattle into
th e blue sea before Jaffa, at a distance o f considerably m ore than a
m ile o ff the town, w hich la y before us very clear, w ith the flags o f the
con suls flaring in the bright sky, and m aking a cheerful and hospitable
show. T h e houses a great heap o f sun-baked stones, surm ounted
here and there b y m inarets and countless little w hitew ashed d o m e s ;
a few date-trees spread out their fan-like heads over these duU-looking
b u ild in g s ; long sands stretched aw ay on either side, w ith low purple
hills behind th e m ; w e co u ld see specks o f cam els craw ling over these
yello w p la in s ; and those persons who were about to land, had the
leisure to behold the sea-spray flashing over the sands, and over a
heap o f black rocks w hich lie before the entry to the town. T h e
sw ell is very great, the passage betw een the rocks narrow, and the
d an ger som etim es considerable.
So the guide began to entertain
th e ladies and other passengers in the huge country boat w hich
brought us from the steam er, with an agreeable story o f a lieutenant
a n d eight seam en o f one o f her M ajesty’s ships, w ho were upset,
dashed to p ieces, and drow ned upon these rocks, through w hich tw o
m en and two boys, w ith a very m oderate portion o f clothing, each
standing and pulling h a lf an oar— there w ere but tw o oars betw een
them , and another b y w ay o f rudder— were endeavouring to
g u id e us.
W hen the danger o f the rocks and surf w as passed, cam e another
auumit; anu, trcmuiini
mahogany backs of these
flung 11}) to a ledge before
jieople were swarming, how
meanwhile, were having arg
the roaring Arab boatmen
especially, the curses and s
lunged fellow, who expressei
a six piastre piece. But he
language ? Both coins are n
I thought the biggest w'as tl.
a sense of their value, and a
Aroat who did not understani
less difference before now.
Being cast upon the ledg
look after the ladies, who wei
savage brutes, who were shoiil
bearing Aem through these
street crammed with donkeys
ing camels with leering eyes I
huge splay feet, through whic
conducted. We made a nu
comfortably under the heels
arched court, and up a stone j
A e Russian consul’s honet .-
-
JA F F A .
445
o r labours to com e and s ta r e ; and the consul, in his co o l dom ed
cham ber, with a lattice o verlookin g the sea, with d e a n mats, and
pictures o f the Em peror, the V irgin , and St. G eorge, received the
strangers with sm iling courtesies, regaling the ladies w ith pom egranates
a n d sugar, the gentlem en w ith pipes o f tobacco, w hereof the fragrant
tu b es were three yards long.
T h e R ussian am enities con cluded, w e left the ladies still under
th e com fortable, co o l dom e o f the R ussian consulate, and w ent to
s e e our own representative.
T h e streets o f the little town are
n either agreeable to horse nor foot travellers. M a n y o f the streets are
m ere flights o f rough steps, leadin g abruptly into private houses : you
pass under archw ays and passages n u m berless; a steep, dirty laby
rin th o f stone-vaulted stables and sheds occupies the ground-floor o f
th e h a b itatio n s; and you pass from flat to flat o f the terra ces; at
various irregular com ers o f which, little cham bers, with little private
dom es, are erected, and the p eop le live seem ingly as m uch upon the
terrace as in the room.
W e found the E n glish consul in a queer little arched cham ber,
w ith a strange old picture o f the K in g ’s arms to decorate one side o f
i t : and here the consul, a demure old m an, dressed in red flowing
robes, with a feeble janissary bearing a shabby tin-m ounted staff*, or
m ace, to denote his office, received such o f our nation as cam e to
him for hospitality. H e distributed pipes and coffee to all and every
o n e ; he m ade us a present o f his house and all his beds for the night,
an d w ent him self to lie quietly on the te rra ce ; and for all this
hospitality he declined to receive any reward from us, and said he
w as but doing his duty in taking us in. T h is w orthy man, I thought,
m ust doubtless b e very w ell paid b y our G overnm ent for m aking
su ch sacrifices; but it appears that he does n ot ge t one single
farthing, and that the greater num ber o f our L ev an t ponsuls are paid
a t a sim ilar rate o f easy remuneration.
I f w e have bad consular
agen ts, have w e a right to com plain ? I f the w orthy gentlem en cheat
o ccasion ally, can w e reasonably b e a n g ry? B ut in travelling through
these countries, English people, w ho don’t take into consideration the
m iserable p overty and scanty resources o f their country, and are apt
to brag and b e proud o f it, have their van ity hurt b y seeing the
representatives o f every nation but their own w ell and decen tly main
tained, and feel asham ed at sitting dow n under the shabby protection
o f our m ean consular flag.
..
C )
CS
world to serve us ; t
send and get some
grinning bows and
other, v.'hich came t(
But hours passed, an
had our dinner of eg
we had our pipes anc
throwing dirt ui)on u,
beards, and are oui
swindling cadi ? VVe
shuffling dispenser of i
bamboozled by compl:
expostulation, and, be
of the indignant Briti;
poor consul got a lait
wonder his means couli
with his tin mace ; the
had hired, stepped for
clattering and stumblinj
seize upon this cadi ir
(though outwardly majei
horses had not come, an
queer glimpse of Orient
procured for us.
As mVfv
THE CAD PS DIVAN.
tow ards the Bow Street o f Jaffa.
447
W e bustled through a crow ded
narrow archw ay w hich led to the cadi’s police-office, entered the little
room , atrociously perfum ed w ith musk, and passing b y the rail-board,
w here the com m on sort stood, m ounted the stage upon w hich his
w orship and friends sat, and squatted dow n on the divans in stem
a n d silent dignity. H is honour ordered us coffee, his countenance
e vid en tly show ing considerable alarm. A b la ck slave, w hose duty
seem ed to b e to prepare this beverage in a side-room with a furnace,
prepared for each o f us about a teaspoonful o f the liq u o r : his
w orship’s clerk, I presume, a tall T u rk o f a n oble aspect, presented it
to u s ; and having lapped up the little m odicum o f drink, the British
lio n began to speak.
A ll the other travellers (said the lion with perfect reason) have
g o o d horses and are gone ; the Russians have g o t horses, the
Spaniards have horses, the English have horses, but w e, w e vizirs
in our country, com ing w ith letters o f H a lil Pacha, are laughed at,
spit upon ! A re H a lil P ach a’s letters dirt, that you attend to them
in this w ay ? A re British lions dogs that you treat them so ?— and
s o on. T h is speech with m any variations was m ade on our side for a
quarter o f an h o u r ; and w e finally swore that unless the horses were
forthcom ing w e would write to H a lil P a ch a the next morning, and
to his E xcelle n cy the E nglish M inister at th e Sublim e P o r t e .. T h e n
y o u should have heard the chorus o f T u rks in rep ly : a dozen voices
rose up from the divan, shouting, scream ing, ejaculating, exp ecto
rating (the A ra b ic spoken language seems to require a great em ploy
m ent o f the tw o latter oratorical m ethods), and uttering w hat the
m e ek interpreter did n ot translate to us, but w hat I dare say were b y
n o m eans com plim entary phrases towards us and our nation. F inally,
th e p alaver concluded b y fhe cadi declaring that b y the w ill o f heaven
horses should be forthcom ing at three o ’clo ck in the m o rn in g ; and
th a t i f not, w hy, then, w e m ight w rite to H a lil Pacha.
T h is posed us, and w e rose up and haughtily to o k leave. I
should like to kn ow that fellow ’s real opinion o f us lions ve ry m u c h :
a n d especially to have had the translation o f the speeches o f a hugebreech ed turbaned roaring infidel, w ho lo o k ed and s ^ k e as i f he
w ou ld have liked to fling us all into the sea, w hich w as hoarsely
murm uring under our window s an accom panim ent to the co n cert
within.
W e then m arched through the bazaars, that w ere lo fty and grim ,
uiiutner tney were playin
intent upon the gam e, a
our party, wlio had disc(
com pany. T h e devotion
were pursued, struck m e ;
b een p layin g thim blerig
shouting his tale o f A n t
happy w ith this amusemer
no ennui in the Eastern c(
go abroad there ?
F rom the bazaars w e i
b e the best house and the
had absconded suddenly, i
m ade a dem and upon hir
M ustapha retired— the Suli
goods, his horses and his ir
could have w ritten six affe
d a rk loneliness o f that viol
hall, terrace to terrace— a f
floors, and scarce turned
M ustapha’s particular div£
bearded friends squatting
the little coffee furnace, but
the glow ing em bers o f th«
from the K o ra n were still
A NIGHT IN SYRIA.
449
h o m e , it is go o d to have m ade this little vo yage and seen these
stran ge places and faces.
T h e n w e w ent out through the arched low ering gatew ay o f the
to w n into the plain beyon d, and that w as another famous and brilliant
sce n e o f the “ A rabian N igh ts.” T h e heaven shone w ith a m arvellous
b rillia n cy — the plain disappeared far in the haze— ^the towers and
battlem en ts o f the town rose b la ck against the sky— old outlandish
trees rose up here and there— clum ps o f cam els were couch ed in the
ra re herbage— dogs were bayin g abou t— groups o f m en lay sleeping
u n d e r their haicks round about— round about the tall gates m any
lig h ts were tw inkling— and th e y brought us water-pipes and sherbet
— and w e w ondered to think that L o n d o n was o n ly three w eeks off.
T h e n cam e the night at the consul’s.
T h e poor dem ure old
gen tlem an brought out his m a ttresses; and the ladies sleeping round
o n the divans, w e la y dow n quite h a p p y ; and I for m y part intended
to m ake as delightful dream s as A ln a s ch a r; but— ^lo, the delicate
m osquito sounded his horn : the active flea jum p ed up, and cam e to
feast on Christian flesh (the E astern flea bites m ore bitterly than the
m o st savage b u g in Christendom ), and the bug— oh, the a cg u rs e d !
W h y was he m ade ? W h at duty has that infamous rufiian to perform
in tbe w orld, save to m ake p eop le w retched ? O n ly Bulw er in his
m ost pathetic style could describe the m iseries o f that night— the
m oaning, the groaning, the cursing, the tum bling, the blistering, the
infiaunous despair and d e g ra d a tio n ! I heard all the co ck s in Jaffa
c r o w ; the children crying, and the m others hushing th e m ; the
do n k eys braying fitfully in the m o o n lig h t; at last, I heard the clatter
o f hoofs below , and the hailing o f m en. I t w as three o ’clo ck, the
horses w ere actu ally c o m e ; nay, there w ere cam els lik e w ise ; asses
a n d mules, pack-saddles and drivers, all bustling together under the
m oonlight in the cheerful street— and the first night in Syria was
1 1 look an liour or ii
to ac( oininodalc all 1
to sec tiic latlics coni
large black mule fore
exceeiiin gly good-nati
the side o f the carriag
offer his back as a stt
to ascend or alight.
R am azan, and over a:
shook mortal bones, j
forty m iles with the
humour. T h e y once o
infringed the r u le ; but
offered to them, and tu,
and I am sure the bes
good-hum oured enduran
w ho grum ble i f club sof:
I f I could write son
fourteen lines m y scns^
saddle, Avith a pair o f
padded sad dle< loth, an
o f rope, to decorate thi
Avhich I Avas about to g:
in the m oonlight, and
A y, or in
A CAVALCADE.
451
a n d recom m end it conscientiously to other dear sim ple brethren o f
th e city.
P eacefu l «men, w e did n ot ornam ent our girdles w ith pistols,
yataghans, & c., such as some pilgrim s appeared to bristle all over
w ith j and as a lesson to such rash people, a story m ay b e told w hich
w as narrated to us at Jerusalem , and carries a w holesom e m oral.
T h e H on ourable H o gg in Arm er, w ho was la te ly travelling in the
E ast, w ore about his stom ach two brace o f pistols, o f such exquisite
finish and m ake, that a Sheikh, in the Jericho country, robbed him
m erely for the sake o f the pistols.
th e story to his friends at home.
I don*t kn ow w h e t ^ r he has told
A n o th er story about Sheikhs m ay here b e told Apropos.
That
celebrated Irish Peer, L o rd O ldgent (who was distinguished in the
B uckingham shire D ragoons), having paid a sort o f b la ck m ail to the
Sh eikh o f Jericho country, was suddenly set upon b y another Sheikh,
w h o claim ed to be the real Jerichonian g o v e rn o r; and these twins
quarrelled over the b o d y o f L o rd O ldgent, as the widows for the
in nocent b a b y before Solom on. T h e re was enough for both— ^but
these digressions are interminable.
T h e party go t under w ay at near four o * clo ck : the ladies in
th e litter, the F ren ch femtnC’de-cfiambre m anfully caracoling on a
gray h o r s e ; the cavaliers, like your hum ble servant, on their high
s a d d le s ; the dom estics, flunkies, guides, and groom s, on all sorts
o f anim als,— som e fourteen in a l l A d d to these, two m ost grave and
stately A rabs in w hite beards, w hite turbans, white haicks and ra im en ts;
sabres curling round their m ilitary thighs, and im m ense long guns at
th eir backs. M o re ven erable warriors I never s a w ; they w ent b y the
sid e o f the litter soberly prancing. W h en w e em erged from the
steep clattering streets o f the city into the gray plains, lighted b y
th e m oon and starlight, these m ilitaries rode onward, leading the
w a y through the huge avenues o f strange diabolical-looking p rick ly
p ears (plants that lo o k as i f they had grow n in T artarus), b y w hich'
th e first m ile or tw o o f route from the city is b o u n d e d ; and as the
d a w n arose before us, exh ibitin g first a streak o f gray, then o f green,
th e n o f red in the
aga in st the rising
th e nature around
th e freshest and
sky, it was fine to see these m artial figures defined
lig h t T h e sight o f that little cavalcade, and o f
it, w ill alw ays rem ain w ith me, I think, as one o f
m ost delightful sensations I have en jo yed since
th e d ay I first saw C alais pier.
I t w as full day w hen th ey ga ve
452
A JOU RXEY FROM CORNHILL TO CAIRO.
their horses a drink at a large pretty O riental fountain, an d then
presently we entered the open plain— the fam ous p lain o f Sharon—
so fruitful in roses once, now hardly culth'ated, b u t alw ays beautiful
and noble.
H ere ]»resentl\', in the distance, Ave saw another caA’alcade
pricking over the plain. O ur tAvo Avhite warriors spread to the right
and left, and galloped to reconnoitre. W e, too, put our steeds to the
cin ter, and handling our um brellas as R ich ard did his la n ce against
Salad in, Avent undaunted to challen ge this cara\'an. T h e fact is, we
could distinguish that it Avas formed o f the party o f our p ious friends
the Poles, and we hailed them w ith cheerful shouting, an d presently
the two caravans join ed com pany, and scoured the p lain at the rate
o f near four miles per hour. T h e horse-master, a courier o f this
com j)any, rode three miles for our one. H e was a broken-nosed
Aral), Avith pistols, a sabre, a fusee, a yello w D am ascu s cloth
flapping over liis head, and his nose ornam ented w ith diachylon.
H e rode a hog-necked gray A rab, bristling o\’er w ith harness, and
jum ped, and whirled, and reared, and halted, to the admiration
o f all.
Sc arce had the diachylonian A rab finished his evolutions, when
lo ! yet another cloud o f dust was seen, and another p arty o f armed
and glittering horsem en appeared. T h e y , too, w ere led b y an Arab,
Avho was followed by two janissaries, Avith silver m aces shining in
the sun. "Fwas the party o f lhe new A m erican Consul-G eneral of
Syria and Jerusalem , hastening to that city, AA'ith the inferior consuls
o f Ram leh and Jaffa to escort him. H e expects to see the Millen
nium in three years, and has accep ted the office o f consul at
Jerusalem, so as lo be on the spot in readiness.
W hen the diachylon A rab saiv the A m erican A ra b , he straightgallo]»ed his steed tOAvards him, took his pipe, w hich he delivered
at his ad\ ersary in guise o f a jerced , and galloped round a n d round,
and in and out, and there and b a ck again, as in a p lay o f w ar. T h e
Am erican rei)lied in a similar playful ferocity— the tw o AA*arriors
made a little tournament for us there on the plains b efo re Jaffa, in
the which diachylon, being a little w orsted, challenged his adversaiy
to a rac e, and fled aAvay on his gray, the A m erican fo llo w in g on his
bay.
H ere poor sticking-plaster Avas again w orsted, th e Y an k ee
Avay
contcm iUuously
exercise.
riding
round
him ,
and
then
d e clin in g
further
RAMLEH.
453
W hat m ore could m ortal man w ant ? A troop o f knights and
paladins co u ld have don e no m ore. In no page o f W a lter Scdtt
h a v e I read a scene m ore fair and sparkling. T h e sober warriors o f
o u r escort did n ot jo in in the gam bols o f the yo u n g men. T h e re
th e y rode soberly, in their w hite turbans, b y their ladies’ litter, their
lo n g guns rising up behind them.
T h e re was no la ck o f com pany alon g the r o a d : don keys
num berless, cam els b y twos and th r e e s ; now a mule-driver, trudging
a lo n g the road, chanting a m ost queer m e lo d y ; now a lady, in w hite
v e il, b la ck mask, and yellow papooshes, bestriding her ass, and
fo llo w ed b y her husband,— m et us on the w a y ; and m ost people
g a v e a salutation. Presently w e saw R am leh , in a sm oking mist, on
th e p lain before us, flanked to the right b y a tall lon ely tower, that
m igh t h ave h eld the bells o f som e moutUr o f C aen o r E vreux. A s
w e entered, about three hours and a h a lf after starting, am ong the
w hite dom es and stone houses o f the little town, w e passed the p lace
o f tom bs. T w o w om en w ere sitting on one o f them ,— the one
b en d in g her head towards the stone, and ro ck in g to and fro, and
m oanin g out a very sweet, pitiful lam entation. T h e A m erican consul
in vited us to breakfast at the house o f his subaltern, the hospitable
one-eyed A rm enian, w ho represents the U n ited States at Jaffa. T h e
stars and stripes were flaunting o ver his terraces, to w hich w e
ascen ded, leavin g our horses to the care o f a m ultitude o f roaring,
ragg ed A ra b s beneath, w ho took charge o f and fed the animals,
th ough I can ’t say in the least w hy ; but, in the sam e w ay as gettin g
o ff m y horse on entering Jerusalem , I gave the rein into the hand o f
th e first person near me, and have never heard o f the w orthy brute
since. A t the A m erican consul’s we were served first with rice soup
in pishpash, flavoured w ith cinnam on and s p ic e ; then with b o iled
m utton, then with stew ed ditto and to m ato es; then with fowls
sw im m ing in g r e a s e ; then with brow n ragoflts belaboured with
o n io n s ; then with a sm oking p ilaff o f rice : several o f w hich dishes
I ca n pronounce to b e o f excellen t m aterial and flavour. A\Tien
th e gen try had con cluded this repast, it was handed to a sidetab le, where the com m onalty speedily discussed it. W e left them
lick in g their fingers as w e hastened aw ay upon the second part o f
th e ride.
A n d as w e quitted R am leh, the scenery lost tliat sweet and
p ea cefu l lo o k w hich characterizes the pretty plain w e had tra versed ;
454
A yOURXF.V FROM CORNHILL TO CAIRO.
and the sun, too, rising in the heaven, dissipated all those fresh,
beauiifiil tints in whic li (io d ’s world is clothed o f early m orning, and
which ( ity jjeoule have so seldom the chance o f beholdin g. The
]*].iin over whi< li we rode looked yellow and g lo o m y ; the cultivation
little or none : the land across the roadside fringed, for th e m ost part,
with straggling wild carrot jilants ; a patch o f green o n ly h ere and
there.
W e i)assed several herds o f lean, small, well-conditioned
cattle : ninny llo( ks o f black goats, tended now and then b y a ragged
negro shei)herd, his long gun slung over his back, his h an d o ve r his
eyes to shade them as he stared at our little cavalcade.
M o st o f the
half-naked ( ountryfolks we met, had this dism al app en dage to Eastern
rustic' life : and tlie weajion could hardly be one o f m ere defen ce, for,
beyond the fade*I skiill-('np, or tattered coat o f blue o r d irty white,
the brawny, bn)wn-( hosted, solem n -lookin g fellow s had nothing
seem ingly to guard. A s before, there was no lack o f travellers on
the ro a d : more don keys trotted by, lookin g .sleek and strong;
cam els singly and by pairs, laden with a little hum ble ragged mer
chandise, on their w ay betw een the two towns.
A b o u t noon we
halted eagerly at a short distance from an A ra b village an d well,
where all were glad o f a drink o f fresh water. A village o f beavers,
or a colony o f ants, m ake habitations not u n like these dism al huts
])iled tcygethcr on the ])lain here. T h e re were no single h u ts along
the whole line o f road ; ])oor and w retched as they are, th e Fellahs
huddle all together for protection from the other th ieves their
neighbours. T h e governm ent (which w e restored to them ) has no
power to lu o tcct them, and is only strong enough to rob them . The
w’omen, with their long blue gow ns and ragged veils, cam e to and fro
with pib'hcrs on their heads. R e b e cc a had such an one w hen she
brought drink to the lieutenant o f A braham . T h e bo ys ca m e staring
round, baw ling after us with their fathers for the in evitable backsheesh,
d'lie \ illnge dogs barked round the flocks, as they w ere driven to
water or jiasture.
W e saw a gloom y, not very lofty-looking ridge o f hills in front of
u s : the highest o f which the guide pointing out to us, told us th at from
it we should see Jerusalem. I t looked very near, and w e a ll set up a
trot o f enthusiasm t<^ get into this hill country.
Hut that burst o f enthusiasm (it m ay have carried u s n early a
quarter o f a mile in three minutes) was soon destined to b e checked
by the disagreeable nature o f the co u n tiy w e had to traverse.
Before
R O A D SID E SKETCHES.
455
w e g o t to the real m ountain district, w e were in a m anner prepared
fo r it, b y the m ounting and descen t o f several lo n ely outlying hills,
u p and dow n w hich our rough stony track wound. T h e n w e entered
th e h ill district, and our path la y through the clattering bed o f an
a n cie n t stream, w hose braw ling waters have rolled aw ay into the past,
a lo n g w ith the fierce and turbulent race w ho once inhabited these
savag e hills. T h e re m ay h ave been cultivation here two thousand
y ears ago. T h e m ountains, or huge stony m ounds environing this
ro u gh path, have lev el ridges all the w ay up to their su m m its; on
th ese parallel led ges there is still som e verdure and s o i l : w hen w ater
flow ed here, and the country was thronged w ith that extraordinary
p opu lation, w hich, accordin g to the Sacred H istories, w as crow ded
in to the region, these m ountain steps m ay have been gardens and
vineyards, such as w e see now thriving along the hills o f the R h in e.
N o w the district is quite deserted, and you ride am ong w hat seem to
b e so m any petrified waterfalls. W e saw no anim als m oving am ong the
sto n y b r a k e s ; scarcely even a dozen little birds in the w hole course
o f the ride. T h e sparrows are all at Jerusalem , am ong the house
to p s, w here their ceaseless chirping and tw ittering forms the m ost
cheerful sound o f the place.
T h e com pany o f P oles, the com pany o f O xford men, and the little
A m erican army, travelled too quick for our caravan, w hich was m ade
to follow the slow progress o f the ladies’ litter, and w e had to m ake
th e jo u rn ey through the m ountains in a very small number. N o t one o f
o u r p arty had a single w eapon m ore dreadful than an u m b re lla : and
a co u p le o f A rabs, w icked ly inclined, m ight have brought us all to the
halt, and rifled every carpet-bag and p o ck et b elon gin g to us. N o r
ca n I say that w e journ eyed w ithout certain qualm s o f fear. W hen
sw arthy fellows, with girdles full o f pistols and yataghans, passed us
w ith ou t unslinging their lon g g u n s :— w hen scow ling cam el-riders,
w ith awful lon g bendin g lances, decorated with tufts o f rags, or savage
p lum es o f scarlet feathers, w ent b y w ithout m olestation, I think w e
w ere gather glad that they did not stop and p a r le y : for, after all, a
B ritish lion w ith an um brella is n o m atch for an A ra b w ith his
infernal lo n g gun. W hat, too, w ould h ave becom e o f our w om en ?
S o w e tried to think that it was entirely out o f a n x iety for them that
w e w ere in clined to push on.
T h e re is a shady resting-place and village in the m idst o f the
m oun tain district w here the travellers are accustom ed to halt for an
OI U S.
It
with llu-ir guns a
...avUU
fifiy or s:\l}' :ill ri<
lUu alas, Ihvi-y <
hill they were all o
crosh the minds o f
policem en. 'J'he d
Savage personages
ro<’ks. T iie mules
m uleteers must liav
village o f trees staiv
the trees— wom en w.
holy m an— the villag
on the hill to our ri
stretching from it, an
must stop ; Paolo, the
he very good m an— ,
here— in fac't we begai
the night, and m aking
A man on a handst
us, lookin g hard at the
two others sauntered iij
he stared into the litter
d o g that lay there, askc
me in the affirmative-
,1,-0 •
NIGH T BEFORE JERUSALEM .
457
I t was A b o u G osh him self, the redoubted robber Sheikh about
w hom w e had been laughing and cryin g “ W o l f ! ” all day. N e ve r
w a s seen such a s k u r r y ! “ M arch I ” w as the instant order given .
AVhen V icto ire heard w ho it was and the m essage, yo u should have
see n how she changed co u n te n a n ce ; trem bling for her virtue in the
fero cio u s clutches o f a G osh. “ U n verre d ’eau pour Tamour d e
D i e u ! ” gasped she, and w as ready to faint on her saddle. “ N e
b u v e z plus, V icto ire ! ” scream ed a little fellow o f our party. “ Push
o n , push on 1 ”

irish sketch book

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