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Two versionB3.indd
www.panos.com Success is an idea, the rest is just work Panos Papadopoulos Contents Our Greek heritage A 25-year odyssey Greece, approxemately 3000 years later Hard times and public dissident Finding a new home First publicity, venture human behavior A market is made up of people Take-off Problems and opportunities Pushing the frontiers Going underground Extending areas of design and activities PLSK Ljungskile The Mew Miss Sweden Continuing my Odyssey Significant moments 5 6 8 10 14 18 20 24 38 44 50 54 62 64 68 74 Odysseus, king of Ithaca ”We have at least two things in common, old Odysseus and me. We are both Greeks and we have both been away on a very long journey with a very uncertain goal. Sometimes I think my journey has been an even longer one than that of Odysseus. As a homage to Odysseus, the great believer, his struggle is included in this book. No © Panos Emporio AB 2011 2 other comparisons are needed. 3 Our Greek Heritage You don’t have to be Greek by marriage like Tom Hanks. Or by birth like Panos Papadopoulos and Motley Crew’s drummer, Tommy Lee. You don’t need to have Greek parentage, like Jennifer Aniston and Kelly Clarkson. All you need to do is live. Every time you cry over a tragedy, laugh at a comedy, ask to use the telephone, vote for democracy or try to solve a problem using logic, you are touched by an invisible historical thread that can be traced all the way back to Greece. If you loved ”Xena - The Warrior Princess”, then you have also met the Gods and heroes of Greek mythology. One of them was half horse, and half man. He was the teacher of Achilles, Orpheus and Hercules, and also famous for his musical ability. They called him Cheiron. Cheiron is the name super-producer Denniz Pop adopted for his recording studio that saw artists like Britney Spears and songwriters like Max Martin launched in the music world. In as many ways as there are stars in the sky, Greece is in our hearts and minds, every day of every year. 4 5 A 25-year odyssey Physically, my odyssey has taken me from sunny, glittering Greece, blessed by the Mediterranean Sea, to Sweden, in the vicinity of the North Pole. A country where the sun shines bleakly during six months of the year. Mentally I have travelled far further. The road was never straight and there have been obstacles along the way. But the energy I gained from working alongside a hugely inspiring phenomenon - many of the world’s most brilliant personalities - has steeled me in the face of adversity, and paved the way to success. Despair was the starting point for my odyssey: a driving force that metamorphosed into prosperity and a richness in quality of life that still is hard for me to grasp. Thank you, despair, for setting me on my way. 7 The Trojan War came to an end Greece, approximately 3000 years later I learned the value of hard work at a very early age. I got my first job when I was eight years old, in a small local store. I had seen a comb with a beautiful golden case in the store window, and I wanted it so very badly. The owner was amused when I offered my services, but he gave me a chance to prove my ability. When the 10-year-long war came to an end, Troy laid in ruins. Odysseus gathered his few surviving men and set off in twelve ships towards his home, Ithaca. Rather surprisingly, I managed to increase the shop’s sales revenue, and with my first salary I bought the comb I had yearned for. I learned that dreams were within reach. Small dreams perhaps, but why not apply my new discovery to achieving greater conquests as well? Odysseus started out on a Northerly course towards the land of the Cicones, where he burned and looted the capital city. The Cicones counter-attacked and six men on each of Odysseus’ ships were killed. The others managed to escape with some of the booty. Out on the Ægean Sea, a tremendous storm raged for three days. It blew the convoy across the Mediterranean Sea, all the way to the coast of North Africa. Panagiotis Papadopoulos, ”Panos” was born in the spring of 1958. He was raised together with his siblings Spiros and Giota, in Elefsis, one of the most historical and fascinating parts of Athens, the capital of Greece. By this time the nation was suffering from war, devastation, a failing economy and military rule. 8 9 Dangerous pleasure Hard times and public dissident In contemporary Greece, free thinking was heavily controlled by the Government. Corruption and injustice had been legitimised. I experienced these restrictions as a painful curtailing of my freedom, and felt suffocated by the hostile atmosphere that pervaded our society. The lotus-eaters, who inhabited the coast, proved to be friendly people. They welcomed Odysseus and I once witnessed a terrible accident in the factory where I was working, in which a colleague of mine was killed in an explosion. The legal proceedings that followed revealed the existence of a calculated threshold tolerating a certain level of fatal accidents in factories. The law was allowing industry to avoid taking responsibility for the loss of a certain number of lives in the normal course of an individual company’s operation. his men when they went ashore to look for drinking water. The crew was offered fruits from the lotus tree and they became affected in a very pleasant way. For days, the Greek men continued to eat fruits and rest in the comfortable climate. Slowly they all forgot the fact that they were on their way to Ithaca. Odysseus tied the crew up with ropes and carried them back to the ships. The men cried and begged to stay with the lotus-eaters, but Odysseus did not listen. He sailed on. This is only one of many examples of legal and political abuse affecting the people of Greece. I could not remain silent, simply an observer of so much legal injustice surrounding me - I had to take action! Greek army tanks rolled through central Athens on 18 November 1973. The military action against the uprising caused dozens of deaths and helped hasten the fall of the military junta. 10 Photo: Vassilis Karamanolis AP/Kathimerini 11 It did not take long for the authorities to single me out as one of the ’awkward squad’, and their ever more frequent threats sent me a message that was crystal clear. It ended with me having to leave the country, and under rather dramatic circumstances I managed to cross the border. King Constantine gave a veneer of legitimacy to the dictators until his abortive counter-coup and flight from Greece in December 1967. He is seen here swearing in the first government under the colonels. Colonel Papadopoulos stands behind the king’s choice for prime minister, Konstantinos Kollias (bespectacled). 12 I had heard about Sweden, a cold country far to the North and a land of winter tales, and of Christmas and Santa Claus. I had also heard it was a country built around gentle, profoundly democratic and humanistic principles, and to me it sounded like an environment where dreams could grow wings and fly. Panos Papadopoulos (no relationsship with the Colonel) in the foundy in Elefsis, where he at the age of 16, worked during school-holidays. Odysseus blinds the Cyclops Finding a new home Gothenburg, Sweden, 1977. I set foot in my new country, still with the Southern sun in my eyes. My first memory of Sweden is of the cold air, and a magnificent silence: a sense of peacefulness describes it best. Of course it was not easy to start with: I had to overcome obstacles such as learning the language and the inevitable financial problems, and loneliness was perhaps the worst problem I had to face. After all, I had left my family and friends behind. The storm sent Odysseus and his ships to unknown surroundings. Sheep were grazing on an island and the starving and thirsty Greeks went ashore. Odysseus and twelve of his men were exploring a cave when Polyphemos, a cyclops and one of Poseidon’s sons, closed the cave’s opening with an enormous stone. Still, I was happy to have found a place with sufficient tolerance and permissiveness to allow everyone to create their own destiny. I really felt that Sweden was filled with the opportunities I lacked in Greece. The one-eyed giant immediately devoured six of the men. Cloyed, the cyclops sat down to rest. Odysseus gave him wine to drink and Polyphemos fell into a heavy sleep. Odysseus heated a sharp pole and drew it into the cyclops’ only eye. The blinded giant tried to capture the men by blocking the opening of the cave. The men managed to escape by hiding under the bellies of the sheep when they left the cave for their daily grazing. 15 I met many people here that gave me opportunities instead of holding me back. They gave me huge quantities of energy, allowing me to thrive and move forward in the right direction. The answer ’No’ only meant ’Try again’, or ’Try another way’. I was given the chance to study and to work, and studying brought me closer to the human mind, and captivated my attention. Getting to know myself, and the people around me, and to really understand them, became my mission. In search of a career path; once Panos had learned Swedish, he used his new skills to teach others. He worked at KomVux, a college for grown-up students, as a teacher and translator in the Greek language. He took on other employment as well, as a prison warder, and a foreign correspondent for a Greek newspaper. 16 17 Angering Æolus and lost again First publicity, venture human behaviour How human being socialize - the refined game human beings play, in which we all have to take part, is a subject of particular fascination to me. I started to study human behaviour in nightclubs, an environment expressly constructed for human entertainment. First page of Göteborgs-Posten 12 februari 1983 For many men and women, however, a visit to a nightclub often ended with trouble, fights, and people walking out on each other. It all seemed so brutal and pointless to me, and I wanted to get to the root of the problem. In 1983, I published a sociological study on this topic, and the media were suddenly there to support it. Æolus, the God of wind, captured all winds except the one from the west, and confined them in a bag which he gave to Odysseus. With only the West wind freely operating, Odysseus was able to sail all the This was my first contact with the public and the media corps, and a very pleasing encounter it was too: the start of a long and respectful relationship. way to Ithaca. He guarded the bag closely during the journey but, close to home, he fell asleep exhausted. Some of the men in the remaining crew opened the bag in search of treasure. The winds were set free in a monstrous tempest. The ships were thrown back out on the open sea, and Odysseus was lost again. 18 He knows all there is to know about discotheques - Guys regard the girls they meet in discos as one-night stands. The girls say that all the guys they meet only have one thing in mind. Harsh words about life in the disco world, pronounced by someone who knows what they are talking about. Panagiotis Papadopoulos spent one year studying life in discotheques. 19 At the coast of the Giants A market is made up of people There is a Greek proverb that says; you have to understand yourself before you can understand others. Once I had really embraced the true meaning of this saying, things began to turn my way. The wind-driven party from Ithaca sought refuge from the storm close to a coast where enormous giants were living. Instead of offering shelter and drinking water, the malicious giants began to break off big chunks of the cliffs and throw them at the ships. Before Odysseus and his men were able to turn the ships around and flee, eleven of them were ship- The vital moment came to me one summer’s day when I went to a beach on the West coast of Sweden. The black, cold water of the North Sea had little in common with the overwhelming world of colours I was used to in the Mediterranean. Looking around me, I saw beautiful people, but all wearing black and rather boring beachwear. All those gorgeous-looking bodies with no expression whatsoever. It was so different from the southern European way: and so different from myself. Everything was so black, it was quite depressing, but it gave me a new idea. wrecked. Only the ship steered by Odysseus was saved, and was able to sail out of reach. 20 I wanted to make these people to feel good about themselves and their bodies. I wanted to help them find the courage to express their personality even on the beach, to feel unique and beautiful. Maybe I was on to something. 21 This is the swimsuit ”Santorini” from the first Panos Emporio Collection 1986. Both the cuts with the high leglines and the amount of colours involved pushed the boarders of beachwear design in its time. I talked to people; I talked to the traders and storekeepers and pursued market research on the topic. It revealed that every woman tries on 30 to 40 pieces of swimwear in the changing room before making her final decision. I was stunned by the result: there had to be something missing from the Scandinavian leisurewear market. What really counts when it comes to feeling comfortable on the beach? The answer was really simple once I looked into it. Three key notions; perfect fit, innovative design and high quality. This trio underpins the foundations of the Panos Emporio, and its inherent simplicity always helps bring me back to essentials, and to find the right inspiration. 22 Using this knowledge as starting point, I created my first collection in 1986, and it continued to inform all the collections that followed. 23 The magic of Circe Take off The key to success is to bring something new to the market. The daring design of Panos Emporio lifted the very essence of swimwear to a higher level and such things do not pass unnoticed in Scandinavia. I suddenly found myself the centre of a new kind of attention, people (both public figures and unknown) contacted me, not only wanting to wear my outfits, but wanting to model for Panos Emporio. Some of them were such interesting characters, and I saw something unique in their personalities, something the media apparently didn’t see. Circe, daughter of Helios, god of the sun, used her magical ability and transformed the men into pigs when they turned up on her island. Odysseus stayed on the ship for a while longer. On his way to the palace of Circe, Odysseus met Hermes, who told him how to resist the goddess’s magic. Odysseus succeeded Panos Emporio has boosted the careers of many bright shining stars, many of whom were not model material according to the media and its spokesmen. They were either too heavy, too thin, too short, too whatever. Call me stubborn, but I consulted my own guts instead. Now we all know the result of that. and threatened Circe with instant death if she did not release the men from the spell. One full night in Circe’s bed was a part of the deal. The night turned out to be so successful that Odysseus stayed with Circe for a full year. 24 25 Jannike Björling A contemporary It-girl, Jannike Björling, jet set lady and formerly married to the Swedish tennis champion, Björn Borg, modelled for Panos Emporio in 1988. The assignment was the start of a beautiful career for Jannike as a professional model. World Champion in Fivos swimsuit. Frank Andersson is one of the most successful wrestlers that Sweden has produced. He won the World Championship in Greek-Roman wrestling three times between 1977 and 1982. He also won the bronze medal in the 1984 Olympics in Los Angeles. 26 27 Victoria Silvstedt At a time when the standards for fashion models moved towards unhealthy thinness, Panos contracted Victoria as headmodel. It turned out successfully for both of them. The public welcomed the breakage of the trend and Victoria moved on to the international scene. Dr Alban Alban Nwapa was born in Nigeria but moved to Sweden in 1979. After completing his dentistry exams, he decided to give music a try. His debut album ”Hello Africa” achieved Platinum certification, and he was the first artist ever to work with the legendary Dennis Pop. Dr Alban’s strong commitment to fighting for human rights in Africa has made him a 28 close friend of Nelson Mandela. 29 Helena Paparizou Our 2004 model was Helena Paparizou, lead singer of the Greek pop group ”Antique”. The following year Helena went solo and won the European Song Contest with ”You are the one”. This was the first time ever that Greece had the honour of arranging the following contest. Tracy Bingham The Baywatch super star, Tracy Bingham modelled for Panos Emporio in 1999. She was astonished by the high level of professionalism that characterized the photo session, and the results were just smashing. 30 31 Janina Frostell Finnish supermodel, pop singer and activist in the struggle against breast cancer, Janina Frostell modelled for Panos Emporio on several occasions during 1999-2002. She was also nominated the sexiest woman in Finland for four years in a row. 32 33 José Solano Wendy Dubbeld Another Baywatch actor, José Solano, was 21st century super model, was the Panos Emporio model for the men’s col- Panos Emporio’s face between lection in 1999. José was reputed at the time 2005-2007. During her years with to be the most beautiful man in the world. Panos she launched many great selling campaigns. She is still a frequently hired model for many well-known lingerie brands. 34 35 Swedish singer Carola Häggkvist made a spectacular breakthrough in 1983 when, aged just 16, she represented Sweden at the European Song Contest in Rome and finished in a respectable third position, with the song ”Främling”. She was back in 1991 and won the contest outright singing ”Fångad av en stormvind”. She went on to make a third appearance in Athens with the song ”Invincible” which scored highly, and finished in fifth place overall. Ten years after its launch, Carola is still wearing Paillot. Both are still contemporary figureheads today. 36 37 The kingdom of the dead Problems and opportunities What does the term ’Innovative design’ really mean? For me, it means working miracles on a piece of cloth, 15-20 centimetres square. This is a tiny workspace, to be sure. How does one bring something new to the marketplace, time and time again, in view of these limitations? In order to discover more about his impending journey back to Ithaca, Odysseus went to see Tiresias, the blind oracle. Being deceased, he was to be found in the kingdom of the dead. Trembling with terror, Odysseus entered Hades. Tiresias told him which way to sail and what dangers awaited him. You find a problem - and come up with a solution. Or, even better, you make something people did not even know they wanted, creating your own market. One thing I have learned about innovation is that patience is needed behind the process of creating something totally new. During the research phase, you will always encounter resistance, and the stronger the resistance, the more confident you should be. It �s a sign that you are on the right track. Push-up Panos Emporio even invented the very idea of the push-up top. Technically is is the hardest piece of garment to develop. The fitting is crucial and thoroughness in craftmanship must be applied down to the smallest detail. Every On his way out of Hades, Odysseus met his own woman knows what this innovation has done mother, of whose death he knew nothing. During to her self-confidence on the beach the sad meeting, Odysseus learned about the sad circumstances of Ithaca. He learned that his palace was occupied by suitors asking for Odysseus’ queen, Penelope’s hand in marriage, and thereby the right to seize the crown of Ithaca. Penelope, while fearing that Odysseus had died during the war, was constantly avoiding making a final decision. 39 Symmetrics An advanced concept designed to help a man to keep his secrets. Contemporary swimmingtrunks had a tendency to be skin-tight when rising up from the water. In the media, this launch resulted in headlines such as: “The first leg-up for men”. Mix & Match All women have their own individual measurements and body shapes of. Preferences also vary when it comes to the cut of swimwear. Introducing the first Mix & Matck programme, Panos Emporio left the choice where it belongs. The concept of multiple tops and bottoms customers can choose between is still a winner, and other swimwear producers have adopted the concept themselves of necessity. 40 41 Panos identified a particularly female issue, whereby many women want to swim and sunbathe in a bikini, but find that walking around in a bikini leaves the body over-exposed to the sun’s harsh rays. Paillot solved that problem. A twopiece with multiple styles. The wearer can change depending on her mood. A bikini, tube top and a miniskirt, all in one. 42 The attac of the Sirens Pushing the frontiers, launching Unlimited Love Traditional thinking has never been sacred in my book. I do not segment the market according to age, ethnicity, skin colour or sexual orientation. Nonetheless, it has to be said that open-minded thinking can attract enemies, and namely xenophobia and homophobia. Panos ® e v o L d e t Unlimi I nearly lost my inspiration in 2004, severely doubting my ability to find new paths for my creativity. I searched within, and started to write down my thoughts on a piece of paper. As a humanist I get affected by life itself, and the people around me. On his way Westwards, Odysseus passed the islands of the Sirens. The sirens were both women and birds, Love is the strongest force to ever influence the world: why do we put it in chains? and sang with wonderful voices. Their songs were so heavenly that seamen who heard them were instantly bewitched and wanted nothing more but to stay on the island. Odysseus made wax plugs and squeezed them into the ears of the crew so they were totally deaf. Odys- The poem that emerged was to become the essence of a new kind of Panos Emporio design. We launched the Unlimited Love line along with its message that love is a human and universal force that each and every one is free to express. seus tied himself to the mast of the ship. Passing the island he shouted orders to the rowing crew to release him, but nobody heard his cries and they all were saved. 44 45 Aleka To really get the message out about love being boundless, the original model for the line was drag queen star Rickard Engfors. I chose him, not just because he looks gorgeous in my outfits, but because he represents a culture that challenges conventions in a way I admire and respect. Love, the power that transports our feelings beyond the clouds Beyond borders far away, where the horizon falls away Where lips bleed from the kiss of the carnation, Where narcissism smiles, but like the awareness of a tender bird. Unfortunately the market was not ready to hear this message, and distributors in several markets threatened to cancel their orders. I was forced to withdraw the catalogue, and arrange another photo session. How man has reduced it! How man has bound it Like a maiden in her bed. However, I think this tells us something important about the world we live in, and I also think that the market would react differently had I done it today. At least I hope they would. Rickard 46 U Panos ® e v o L d e nlimit Why were you captured, Love? What hand hurt you so? What power envied you so? Love, how I want to take you with me And you to take me with you. No more, shall you weep; shall I weep; The horizon shall not divide us, For it no longer rests in Sappho’s dream. Unlimited, the touch of our lips; Unlimited, the love in our gaze; Unlimited, the unparalleled love reflecting from the light, flowing hair Of Aphrodite herself Poem by Panos 47 48 U Panos ® ve o L d e t i nlim 49 Scylla and Carybdis Going underground In 2006, I found a new source of inspiration. While attending a fashion show in London, I recognized the creativity that was flourishing among underground subcultures, with their rebellious, uncompromising convictions and beliefs. I was fascinated by the idea of combining two completely opposed worlds: luxurious beach fashion on the one hand, and the influence of Punk, Goth and Oi on the other. Was it even possible? On the shores of a narrow channel lived the two seamonsters, Scylla and Carybdis. The former had six A year later Panos Emporio presented Poison by Panos, an interpretation and assimilation of two totally different views of design. Many said that Poison by Panos proved it was indeed possible to create a collection that was sophisticated yet uncompromising and true to its origins, and I think they were right. heads, each of them eagerly devouring humans, given the opportunity. Carybdis created a giant maelstrom on her side of the strait, forcing Odysseus to pass mortally close to Scylla. For me, Poison by Panos forced me to overcome my own prejudices in order to get close to the individual, proud subculture souls. It forced me to reassess my personal definition of beauty. Despite rowing as fast as possible, Scylla snapped away six of the men, but the rest of the crew and the ship made their way through. 50 51 52 The oxen of Helios Extending areas of design and activities To design is to transform function into fashion, and add personality. Why be limited to beachwear? There is no good reason. Beachwear involved one intensive period of designing each year, and one single launch date. The thrill of receiving first reactions from the press and the marketplace are the best days of the year. Bengt Westerberg Former Chairman of the Swedish liberal party, Minister for social welfare, Vice prime minister, and Chairman of the Swedish Red Cross: Bengt Westerberg modelled for our launch of the new line of Panos Emporio business briefcases. I wanted to feel that excitement more often. In Trinakia, on the coast of Sicily, Helios kept his oxen. Odysseus knew that no one, under any circumstances, was allowed to disturb the cattle belonging to Helios. The men were starving and no supplies were to be found on board the ship. Some of the crew ignored Odysseus’ prohibition and slaughtered one of the oxen. Odysseus sensed the smell of the barbecue and feared that disaster was to come. When Helios found out what happened, he persuaded Zeus to hit the ship with lightning. A thunderstorm crashed the ship into pieces. Odysseus tied together some debris from the wrecked ship and survived. All the other men drowned. 54 55 Less is More Panos Emporio has launched several luxurious ranges of shoes and bags. 56 57 Robes and Gowns In collaboration with Marks Pelle Vävare, Panos designed and produced a line of exclusive robes and gowns in the best quality cotton terry he could find. 58 59 Wedins lyfter på Panoseffekten1 Uppdaterad 2006-10-23 16:31 Lyftet i Wedins aktie från fredagen höll i sig efter helgen. Marknaden tar rygg på nya storägaren Panos Emporio. Men vad har han i kikaren för bolaget? Skokedjan aktie har på mindre än två börsdagar tagit tillbaka hela tappet från i början av augusti. Även om det är långt kvar från dagens kurs på omkring 10,20 kronor till årshögsta på lite över 17 kronor från i våras är det en ordentlig återhämtning från 8,50 kronor så sent som i fredags morse. Panos nekas styrelseplats i Wedins2 Uppdaterad 2006-12-19 13:54 Stockholmsbörsen: Wedins faller efter Panos utträde3 Uppdaterad 2007-01-31 10:20 Ett annat företag på förlorarlistan var Wedins, vars aktie tappade med 4,2 procent, efter att storägaren Panos Papadopoulos retirerat och sålt sin ägarandel på 7 procent i Wedins, sedan han nekats styrelseplats. Vem eller vilka som har köpt Panos Papadopoulos andel är ännu inte känt. Under onsdagsmorgonen mäklade HQ Bank en post om 6,7 procent i Wedins Baddräktskungen Panos Papadopoulos nekas en plats i Wedins styrelse, trots att han är fjärde största ägare. Det framgår av kallelsen till bolagsstämman. Ett nytt ägarbråk är under uppsegling i skokedjan . Nya storägaren Panos Papadopoulos får ingen plats i styrelsen, trots att hans representant i valberedningen krävt det. 60 An opportunity to use the knowledge I had acquired in the fashion business arose when a sizeable proportion of the stock in shoe retailer Wedins came up for sale in 2006. I was convinced that Panos Emporio - with its marketing ’muscle’ and distribution networks - could help relaunch Wedins and make it into a winner once more. I was prepared to give Wedins my undivided attention, and a full focus. My arrival in the company became the starting point for a ruthless struggle for power among the major shareholders. I realized that in such a situation everybody works only in their own interest, and not in the interest of the company. I learned my lesson and made a swift exit. 1. Wedins soares on the Panos-effect 2. Panos denied a chair on the board Nils Åkesson Dagens Industri 3. Stockholm exchange: Wedins down after Panos exit 61 Inprisioned by Calypso PLSK Panos Ljungskile By now you will have realised that I am a man driven by passion, and so it will come as no surprise that soccer is a great passion of mine. From my childhood I remember soccer as a forbidden game, as the grown-ups always seemed to get angry with us boys playing soccer, and they frequently found a reason to interrupt our game for. We never got to play as much as we wanted. After the shipwreck, Odysseus floated ashore onto the island of Malta, where Calypso lived. She was a nymph with powerful capabilities, and she held Odysseus imprisoned with her bonds of love. Odysseus stayed for many years with Calypso, who every night proved her love, leaving Odysseus without a will of his own. Zeus sent Hermes to Calypso to convince her of the Panos Emporio became the leading sponsor of Ljungskile’s soccer team. The team’s members voted to rename itself Panos Ljungskile, and when they made their first kick-off in the premier league, I was on the grandstand, proud as a peacock. It was a glorious moment! When Ljungskile, the eponymous soccer team from a small village on the West coast of Sweden, succeeded with the remarkable achievement of qualifying for the premier league in 1997, their story really got to me. The team had managed to come this far with limited resources and with no high profile recruiting, but now the money was running out, and they could not fulfil their dreams to participate in the League. Of course I wanted to be a part of those dreams: I simply could not stay away. It was a true love story, and not a PR coup, as many suspected. necessity of releasing Odysseus from her bonds of love. Calypso knew that she had to obey Zeus and she equipped Odysseus with a raft in exchange for him staying one last night. 62 Photo: Lasse Edwartz Bohuslänningen 63 Odysseus and Alcinous The New Miss Sweden During my years in the fashion business I have seen many bad things happen, especially to young women. The once-honoured Miss Sweden was one of them. The contest had degenerated at the beginning of the new millennium, and had lost all coverage from TV and magazines, becoming a nightclub event. I felt the urge to do something of consequence to inspire young Swedish women, and took charge of the contest in 2005. As he sailed close to Ithaca one more time, Odysseus, now totally alone, was hit by a storm. Poseidon, the father of the cyclops, vented his rage on the man who had hurt his son. Odysseus would surely have drowned if a nymph of the sea had not come to his salvation. Shipwrecked once again, and without clothes, Odys- Instead of running the event as a beauty contest, I tried to send out a new concept by giving the contest a complete makeover, and relaunching it in the form of a national recruiting programme. The motto for the New Miss Sweden was smart, strong and independent. The New Miss Sweden stands for togetherness, joy and positive ideals. seus reached the unknown shore. It happened that Nausicaa, the daughter of King Alcinous, was present in the vicinity. She had mercy on the naked man and helped Odysseus to the palace. During a dinner, Odysseus told his long story to the King. So many years of despair and hardship touched the King. After Odysseus became exhausted and went to sleep, the King ordered that he, undisturbed from his slumber, I saw no reason why young women should have to expose themselves in minimal clothing in order to be seen as a role models for others, so I eliminated the swimsuit element from the pageant. The media was once again hot on the trail of this new venture, mostly internationally, but also in Sweden. Josephin Alhanko Elected The New Miss Sweden in 2006. should be taken by ship to the nearby Ithaca. 65 The new look Miss Sweden did not, however, silence the age-old critics of the pageant, mainly members of the feminist movement. They refused to recognize Panos �s initiatives as a positive step for the modern woman. On the other hand, one person who did react was the head of Miss Universe in USA, Donald Trump. Due to the elimination of the swimsuit element, Miss Sweden was barred from the Miss Universe contest. The Americans could not handle the move towards modernity the Swedish contest was making. To this day, they still insist on judging their contestants on the way they look in a bathing suit, rather than on the beauty of their minds. The New Miss Sweden contest now has its own exhibition space in Moderna Muséet in Stockholm, Sweden. One would have to search long and hard to find a more perfect space and environment for a formal beauty contest. Azra Duliman won the New Miss Sweden title in 2009. Soon to graduate in Law, and involved in a Swedish-Bosnic youth programme, Azra has all the personal attribu- 66 tes of the committed, positive and dynamic young Moderna museet, Stockholm woman the Miss Sweden title sets out to inspire. Photo: Moderna Museet / Prallan Allsten 67 Finally back on Ithaca Continuing my Odyssey Now it is time to continue my journey, one which seems to have only just begun. It is time to break new ground, explore new territories, and take on new challenges. I recently realized a long-held dream of mine, with the launch of a totally new clothing collection during 2010, heralding the start of a new era for the Panos Emporio brand. We have remained true to the core values we embraced from the outset, values our customers have always acknowledged and respected, and values they are now delighted to see transposed into a new line of business. It is still about innovative design, perfect fit, personal style and fantastic quality. It is still Panos Emporio. Odysseus, disguised as a simple beggar, crept unseen into his own palace where all Penelope’s suitors were enthroned. Apart from Penelope, his wife, there were Telemachus, his son, and a handful of faithful servants. Zeus showed his support for Odysseus by The name of the first collection - the Panos Emporio Honeymoon Collection - reinforces the idea that this is a new love. A new passion: not just a fleeting one, but one that will last forever. sending a lightning bolt as evidence. The day of justice dawned. 68 69 70 71 73 Ithaca today Significant moments Certain things during my journey have had a greater impact on me than others. When analysing what really formed my life and my personality, a few things pop up in my mind, reminding me of what is important – and what is not. Ithaca is an island in the Ionian Sea, in Greece, an area of 45 square miles (120 km2) with just over three thousand inhabitants. Ithaca is an autonomous municipality of the Kefallinia Prefecture, and lies off the North East coast of Kefalonia, and to the West and within sight of continental Greece. The municipality of Ithaca includes a number of small islands. The capital, Itháki (Vathý), has one of the world’s largest natural harbours. Modern Ithaca is generally identified with Homer’s Ithaca, the home of One of many occurrences was in 1989 when I travelled overseas for the very first time. My destination was Manila, to visit a particular beachwear supplier. The factory owner was the wife of a very powerful politician, and during my stay I was treated like royalty. I was provided with a police escort wherever I went, and enjoyed wonderful dinner parties with my noble hosts and their society. One morning I was given clearance to visit the factory, and the sight that hit me still haunts me in my nightmares. Small children everywhere, hard working, lying on the floor, living under the most dreadful circumstances. I was appalled! Odysseus, whose delayed return to the island is a key element in the Odyssey plot. The island is easily reached by ferry, with several lines serving Ithaca and the outlying islands in the vicinity. 74 75 realized that what I had done was the embryo of what today is known as the company ”Code of Conduct”. Financial and business district of fashionable Manila, Phillipines The following evening I was once again invited to dine with the socially privileged upper class friends of my hosts. However, this meal did not taste as good as the others had done, and as if by a special omen, I was badly food poisoned. What I lived through that night was a near death experience. I was truly convinced that my life was over. When I finally woke up, it was with only one clear thought in my head - those children! Another experience that made a major impression on me is when I first met Mr Jean Louis Dumas, chief of Hermès Fashion House. He and I met on a very spiritual level, and developed a profound and deep friendship. He was a great inspiration to me, as I was to him, and he once said to me; ”Panos, it does not matter if we work in a large or a small perspective, as long as your work makes you happy. What does it matter if you have 50 customers or 50,000? If your company turns over 50,000 or 50,000,000? It is just two or three zeros’ difference – that is all.” What he meant was that in the end, we are all the same – we must do what makes us happy, no matter what it is. Sadly enough he passed away during the Spring of 2010, but I will never forget his wisdom. Jean Louis Dumas, director of Hermés I could not continue to collaborate with that particular factory. On returning home, I wrote a short, but very important, letter. Much later I 76 77 So many stories, so many people, so many unexpected obstacles. The true meaning of ”Force Majeure” was showing me its unpleasant side for the first time in the Chernobyl disaster, an occurrence that nearly wrecked my business when it had just taken off. Eighteen years later the Tsunami destroyed our market in Thailand, where we had successfully launched Panos Emporio just a few years earlier. And if anyone had asked young Panos in Athens, if I thought that one day I would be deceived and misled by the Russian Mafia, after several fruitful years in the communist Republic of Russia – I would laugh at them as if they had made a joke. Many events have made their mark on my journey, making me even stronger and more determined, but they have also made me humble about life itself, and its boundlessness. The Tsunami-chatastrophy insoutheast Asia 2004. Ao Nang, Thailand, same second as the wave hits the coastline. © David Rydevik 78 79 My journey has taught me to act from my heart, rather than solely from my head – this way of doing business has always had a special significance for me. Don’t ask me whether it has turned out to be the lucrative way of doing business, but money has never been something that drove me on. My engine is life itself, and the people in my life. That means all the hundreds of people I have met, all the wonderful business partners who have made my work possible, collaborating with me through good times and bad, and the thousands of people that acknowledge my work, buying my creations. It includes the wonderful 70year-old lady who wrote me a letter about how my design had made a difference to her life; and the man in the wheel chair, ill with cancer, who paid me a visit before he died; and the 8-yearold boy who e-mailed me to tell me about his dreams. He wanted to become a designer, and I am sure one day his dream will come true. It also means all of you – my customers! Now I am continuing my odyssey, beginning a new and exciting chapter. I hope you will all join me. 81 82 83 This Odyssey is a tribute to all the people in my life, whether they are the women I have primarily designed for, or anyone else whose individuality and uniqueness is enriching our world. I have tried to captivate and enhance the wearer’s personality in much of my work. Through creating, I aim to focus on the beauty inherent in everyone, and to emphasize that love is a universal construct that can only enhance our future. My designs are the outward expression of these 84 85 86 www.panos.com