JANUARY 2015 Newsletter - Raleigh Aquarium Society

Transcription

Raleigh Aquarium Society (RAS)
Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
JANUARY 2015 Newsletter
The Raleigh Aquarium Society (RAS) meets on the first Thursday of every month at 7:30 pm. All meetings
are held in the South Theater of the NCSU CVM campus library (North Carolina State University - College of
Veterinary Medicine) located at 4700 Hillsborough Street in Raleigh, North Carolina 27607 (USA). Agendas
begin with introductions, followed by a discussion of assorted business topics, then by a program of interest to
the membership, and conclude with a ticket raffle and silent auction of fish, plants, and equipment/supplies.
Complimentary light refreshments are provided and guests are always welcome. For more information, visit us
at http://www.raleighaquariumsociety.org/ or e-mail raleighaquariumsociety@yahoo.com. You can also find us
on YAHOO (www.groups.yahoo.com/raleighaquariumsociety), MEETUP (www.meetup.com/raleigh-aquariumsociety), and FACEBOOK (www.facebook.com/raleighaquariumsociety). RAS is a member in good standing of
FAAS (the Federation of American Aquarium Societies) with a mission to increase the knowledge, enjoyment,
and conservation of home ponds & aquariums for aquarist hobbyists/professionals at all levels of experience.
NOTE: RAS club meetings are held in the South Theater of the NCSU Veterinary School Library,
downstairs level. Park across the street and enter via the main library lobby no later than 8:00 pm.
© 2015 RAS (All Rights Reserved)
www.raleighaquariumsociety.org
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Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
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Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
Table of Contents:
January 2015 Program (1/8/15 @ 7:30pm) – “Aquariums in China”: ....................................................3
RAS Club Officers and Committee Chairs: ...........................................................................................4
From the Fishing Desk: .........................................................................................................................4
RAS 2015 Calendar of Events: .............................................................................................................5
Fishy Business:.....................................................................................................................................6
Proposal Status ..........................................................................................................................6
Fish & Trips: ..........................................................................................................................................6
January Roadie ..........................................................................................................................6
Fish Action: ...........................................................................................................................................7
December 2014 Silent Auction (SA) Report ...............................................................................7
December 2014 Breeder’s Award Program (BAP) Report..........................................................7
Fish Hobby Happenings:.......................................................................................................................8
Fish Market: ..........................................................................................................................................9
Fish Posts: ..........................................................................................................................................10
Alligator Snapping Turtle in Pineville Reservoir ........................................................................10
Big Turtle Caught by Big Angler................................................................................................10
Saving the Sea Turtles ............................................................................................................. 11
Cold-Stun Season is Off to a Busy Start ...................................................................................12
A New Larger Space for Sea Turtle Rescues ...........................................................................13
Fish School: ........................................................................................................................................14
Fish Tales:...........................................................................................................................................17
Going Reptilian: An Aquarist’s Introduction to Turtles ...............................................................17
Go Fish!: .............................................................................................................................................22
RAS Sponsors:....................................................................................................................................23
RAS Membership Application:.............................................................................................................24
January 2015 Program (1/8/15 @ 7:30pm) –
“Aquariums in China”:
January is your Society’s birthday (we are 34 years old!), and to start the New Year off, longtime RAS
friend and humble narrator, Michael Maieli, will present a program highlighting aquatic experiences
gained during a recent trip to China. As the largest country by population and fourth largest by
landmass, China boasts an enviable tradition of fishkeeping in homes, businesses, and government,
whether it be in art, music, or tanks. Learn about this unique aspect of Chinese culture, through the
eyes of a Westerner at our next meeting. We hope you can join us! Please note that due to the New
Years Holiday, this meeting is scheduled 1 week later than usual.
Keep those raffle/silent auction items coming in! You can get up to 3 free tickets when you donate up
to 3 items for the monthly raffle. Visit our raffle chairman before each meeting to drop off donations.
Also, if you have non-raffle fish/plants for the silent auction, see our silent auction chairpersons (you’ll
get a portion of the proceeds as per our auction policy). And, we’re always looking for great programs
to educate our membership on ordinary and not-so-ordinary aquatic-related topics. If you’d like to be
a speaker at any of our meetings, contact our Program Chairman so you can get scheduled.
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Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
RAS Club Officers and Committee Chairs:
President:
Vice-President and Vendor Coordinator:
Secretary and Newsletter Editor:
Treasurer and BAP Chairman:
Past President and Program Chairman:
Frank Montillo [fmontillo @ aol.com]
Jon Haddad [jhaddad88 @ comcast.net]
Michael Maieli [michaelmaieli @ aol.com]
Larry Jinks [bapman13 @ hotmail.com]
Todd Wenzel [wenzelt @ netzero.net]
Workshop/Auction Chairman:
Monthly Raffle Chairman:
Monthly Silent Auction Chairpersons:
Field Trip Coordinator:
Utility Chairpersons:
Yahoo Groups/Forum Administrator:
Webmaster:
Chris Smith [ctyank @ frontier.com]
Robert Sanderford [onearmr @ gmail.com]
Richard Poole and Maggie Poole
Jeremy Maciejewski [jjmaciej @ yahoo.com]
Jeff Jenkins and Emily Hirtle
Gerald Pottern [gbpottern @ yahoo.com]
Matt DeGroodt [degmat @ gmail.com]
From the Fishing Desk:
Your society has a lot planned for 2015. We’ll still have our annual workshop and picnic, semi-annual
auctions and stream cleanups, normal monthly meetings, and a bunch of field trips. But we’d also like
to forge stronger relationships with close proximity aquarium clubs in the coming year. We’re looking
for ideas on what you think would be fun activities to do with Charlotte, James River (Richmond),
Atlanta, Potomac (Washington DC), and Columbia. Let us know your thoughts.
As per our bylaws, annual RAS board elections will take place in January. Annual dues of $20.00 per
household are also due in January. And don’t forget, our annual workshop is coming up in February
(see page 2 of this newsletter for details).
Membership dues are $20.00 per calendar year, starting each January. This is a per-household price.
Pro-rated fees for joining at other times are listed on our application form (last page of every
newsletter). Kindly remit your dues in person to the club treasurer or by mail to POB 31564, Raleigh,
NC 27612. Contributions to this newsletter are always welcome. This includes business/technical
articles, items to buy/sell/trade/donate, activity updates, forum posts, trip reports, classes, job
openings, etc. Submit news softcopy via e-mail or hardcopy via our P.O.B. When communication to
us in any form, please include your full name, phone number, and e-mail address. Monthly
newsletters are published about a week prior to each regular club meeting and sent blindcopy to your
e-mail address on file. If you have any updates to your contact information (including a subscription
removal), or any questions/comments/concerns about our newsletter, forum, web page, MEETUP
page (join us on MEETUP!), or FACEBOOK page (like us on FACEBOOK!), please contact the club
secretary. FYI, last month’s find the hidden RAS logo was contained in the “Go Fish” section. A final
note should be made about the locations we use at the NCSU Vet School for any of our meetings please keep in mind that we are guests of this excellent and generous facility and must treat the
room, its furniture, and all equipment in a responsible manner. Direct any questions/problems that you
may have to the club secretary for resolution. Thank you for your responsible actions. RAS wishes
you and your family happy holidays and a happy and prosperous New Year!
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Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
RAS 2015 Calendar of Events:
January
February
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
December
Club Meetings Board Mtgs. W.S./Auctions Fish Food Field Trips Other
8th
22nd
24th
5th
19th
13th-15th
th
th
5
19
21st
2nd
16h
7th
21st
th
4
18th
16th
18th
18th
2nd
6th
20th
3rd
17th
st
1
15th
5th
19th
7th
3rd
17th
3rd
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Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
Fishy Business:
<Information of interest to the membership regarding recent club board meetings and business.>
Proposal Status
By Michael V. Maieli
The latest RAS board meeting was held at 7:30pm on 12/15/20/14 at the NCSU CVM library. Any
club member can attend any board meeting at any time to provide any input on any item of business.
Board meetings normally occur on the 3rd Thursday of each month (same time/location as club
meetings), but check with the club secretary for exact schedule details.
Proposals/actions discussed but not yet decided upon or FYI items include:
 Refreshments policy at meetings (contact = RAS board).
 New RAS webmaster secured (contact = W. Wu and M. DeGroot).
 RAS stream cleanup post-mortem (contact = M. Maieli).
 RAS holiday party post-mortem [food, music, raffle] (contact = F. Montillo).
 RAS insurance policy post-mortem (contact = C. Smith and M. Maieli).
 RAS POB renewal & extra key (contact = M. Maieli).
 Smaller live auctions at each meeting? (contact = L. Jinks).
Proposals/actions passed include:
 Treasurer’s report and 2015 club budget (contact = L. Jinks).
 RAS logistics for Winter Workshop on 2/13/15-2/14/15 [flyers, posters, donations, volunteers,
speaker lodging/travel, banquet, A/V equipment, shirts, etc.] (contact = C. Smith, G. Pottern, J.
Haddad, and H. Greensword).
 RAS NC aquarium trip to Pine Knoll Shores on 12/27/14 (contact = M. Maieli).
 2015 raffle purchases and distribution (contact = R. Sanderford).
Proposals/actions denied include:
 None.
Fish & Trips:
January Roadie
By Jeremy Maciejewski
We may take a trip out to our one of our favorite fish stores, Animal Jungle, in January. They are
located about 3 hours away in Virginia Beach, Virginia, so this would be a full day trip. We’re looking
at Saturday, January 24, so if anyone is interested, please send us a note to our email address. By
the way, Fintastic in Charlotte is moving. We’ll let you know where when we get more information.
We’re always looking for fun places to go (aquariums, pet shops, fish conferences), neat things to do
(collecting trips, ark projects, community volunteering), or interesting people to meet (parties, socials,
meetups). If you have any suggestions, contact Jeremy at (919)740-4067 or jjmaciej@yahoo.com.
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Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
Fish Action:
December 2014 Silent Auction (SA) Report
By Larry Jinks
In December, there was no silent auction. Through the monthly silent auction, quality livestock and plants are
provided to the membership at reasonable prices which enables members to work with new species of fish and
plants they won’t see at local shops. If you have any extra fish, plants, or aquatic items, please consider a
donation to the silent auction to help build our treasury. The silent auction is posted on the website allowing
members to save time by downloading the forms prior to the meetings. See Rich and Maggie Poole to enter
items in the silent auction and be sure to check the back tables for more aquatic treasures.
December 2014 Breeder’s Award Program (BAP) Report
By Larry Jinks
At the December holiday party, the BAP awards for 2014 were presented. Dan Koenig, Ben Guardiola and
Elvin Eaton all received the first level “Breeder” award and Elvin received the second level “Intermediate
Breeder” award as well. The “Breeder of the Year” award for 2014 also went to Elvin Eaton. He survived some
stiff competition to bring home the plaque. Elvin spawned 18 species of fish last year for a total of 240 points.
Second place went to BAP chairman Larry Jinks who spawned 19 species for 235 points and third went to club
president Frank Montillo who spawned 14 species for a total of 225 points. Our BAP had a good year as 11
members entered a total of 68 fish in 2014. The breakdown was: 24 old world cichlids, 18 livebearers, 10 new
world cichlids, 8 killifish, 5 catfish and 3 cyprinids. We now have 17 total participants in the BAP. Through the
monthly silent auction, the Breeder Award Program provides quality livestock to the membership at reasonable
prices and enables the membership to try working with new species of fish that they won’t see at local shops.
Anyone who would like to join the BAP can contact chairman Larry Jinks at meetings or e-mail him at
bapman13@hotmail.com. The BAP standings are now posted on the website along with the rules and entry
form. Members don’t have to have anyone come to their house, but can bring six fry at least 60 days old to a
meeting with a completed BAP form (found on the website). There are four options to get credit for the entry:
1. Enter the fish in the silent auction (or weekend workshop auction)
2. Donate the fish to the monthly raffle
3. Write an article on the spawning for the monthly newsletter
4. Do a presentation at a monthly meeting
Chairman Larry Jinks put out a call to members to form a committee to revise and update the BAP rules.
Anyone interested in helping with the BAP committee can contact Larry by e-mail or talk to him at the meeting.
Annual BAP Standings (as of 1/1/15)
1. x = x
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
Cumulative BAP Standings (as of 1/1/15)
1. Larry Jinks
= 1345
2. Todd Wenzel
= 695
3. Frank Montillo
= 650
4. Neil Frank
= 300
5. Eric Hanneman
= 250
6. Elvin Eaton
= 240
7. Gerald Pottern
= 230
8. Dave Herlong
= 120
9. Dan Koenig
= 85
10. Ben Guardiola
= 55
11. Phil Lamonds
= 30
Lauren Layton
= 30
13. Allan O’Briant
= 10
Justin Ho
= 10
Sam Jenkins
= 10
Jon Haddad
= 10
Joe Magura
= 10
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Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
Fish Hobby Happenings:
<Tips, techniques, and commentary from resident RAS master breeder, Larry Jinks. Larry invites you
to contact him at bapman13@hotmail.com for any questions you may have about the hobby.>
Recently, I’ve had some spawnings of fish quite unrelated to one another. One was an anabantoid, one a new world cichlid
and one “oddball” (in the North Jersey AS specialty classification). Once again, these fish spawned on their own as long as I provided
acceptable conditions and good food. Many times I obtain fish serendipitously and always try to spawn all of these fish. I guess you
could call me an “opportunistic” fish breeder. The anabantoid was a spike tailed paradise fish (Parosphromenus cupanus). Josh
Weigert of Batfish Aquatics had come to our September auction and delivered pre-ordered fish to customers. He did, however, forget a
box of fish and asked if he could ship them to me for distribution at our next Raleigh AS club meeting. I agreed as Josh is a good friend
and supporter of our club and the hobby in general. To my surprise, Josh sent along a pair of fish for me as a thank you. I had spawned
another spike tailed paradise fish (Parosphromenus dayi) in NJ, so I had some knowledge of their behavior. I housed the pair in a 2½
gallon plastic tank for quarantine. I added Java moss, a small breeding cave and an airline. They fed eagerly on a diet of live baby brine
shrimp, live black worms, frozen blood worms and even took some flake food. I noticed the female took on a dark coloration and later
saw the male sitting in the breeding cave. With a flashlight I could see several dozen eggs on the floor of the cave. Several days later I
noticed, with difficulty, the incredibly tiny fry had hatched. I then removed the male and female to another 2½ gallon tank to raise the fry
separately. I sprinkled Golden Pearls powder (less than 50 micron size) on the surface and added some murky water from an infusoria
culture I tried to start. Later, as the fry got larger I tried feeding some live baby brine shrimp. Two months later at least a half dozen fry
remain, but are still only about a quarter inch in length. The parents spawned again, but I left the fry in with them and I don’t see that
any have survived. I’ll have to take the fry if they spawn again to get enough fry to turn in to all my BAP clubs.
In October 2013, Robert Sanderford and I journeyed northward for the NJAS 60th Anniversary weekend. We went up on
Thursday as the monthly meeting was the night before the workshop at the same venue. As I was on line to turn in my BAP entries, fish
friend (and outstanding breeder) Kathy Muraca was turning in several bags of a South American cichlid (Laetacara araguaiae). She
asked me if I had ever spawned these fish and, when I said I hadn’t, she presented me with a bag of 6-8 fry. I thanked her profusely
and she told me she had gotten the adults from Paul Loiselle. (Paul can see the grandchildren when he visits my fishroom while
speaking at next February’s Raleigh AS Workshop). The fish survived the stay in our hotel room and the ride back to NC and were
housed in a 10 gallon tank on the bottom rack for grow out. It was a bare tank with some Java moss and floating plants and a few caves
for shelter. They were fed the normal diet of flake, live baby brine and, when they got larger, frozen bloodworms and live blackworms. I
kind of forgot about them as the year went on (as often happens with bottom rack tanks) and I got very busy with speaking
engagements and family activities.
In early November I was doing my annual assessment of the fishroom and noticed that the Laetacara had grown to adult size.
I was going to be away for half the month of November for two speaking engagements, a wedding, and a Thanksgiving trip to Illinois to
see my son and daughter-in-law (thank heavens for Rick and Maggie Poole who feed my fish when I’m away). I decided to move the
remaining five cichlids to the top row of a rack (warmer, as I heat the whole room rather than individual tanks). I often used this
technique in my NJ fishroom as I found the increase of a couple of degrees can trigger a spawning. The Laetacara shared a 20 gallon
long tank with three Aspidoras spilotus, a spawning group of Corydoras axelrodi, and a few Oryzias sp. “danang” that I had gotten at a
Pittsburgh meeting auction when I spoke there in June. The tank was equipped with a Poret foam matten filter and had a sand
substrate. There were some spawning caves, Java moss and some floating plants. When I stopped home the week before
Thanksgiving I noticed that the Laetacara had spawned on top of one of the caves and a male was guarding the spawn. Three days
later the fry hatched (the day before I was leaving for a week in Illinois). I left word with Rick to feed the fry Golden Pearls powder while
I was away freezing and getting my fill of snow in the winter wonderland of Rockford, Illinois. Upon my return, after thawing out, I
noticed that the Laetacara fry had survived and were free swimming. I added live baby brine shrimp and finely crushed flake food to
their diet. Hopefully I’ll be able to bring the fry to the Atlanta meeting for points in February.
When I spoke in June at the Pittsburgh club (GPASI), they had a BAP auction as well as a general auction at the meeting.
There were quite a few interesting species bred and offered at these auctions. I obtained a bag of young rice fish (Oryzias
mekongensis). I had gotten a few fry of this species years ago from Brooklyn AS president Joe Graffagnino, but I was not able to raise
and spawn them, so I thought I’d try again. They were housed in a five gallon tank on the top rack that had some L187 loricarid fry that I
had gotten from Eric Bodrock when he spoke at our last workshop. The tank was bare bottomed, but chock full of Java moss and
floating plants, such as hornwort and water sprite. The rice fish took some flake but really relished live baby brine shrimp. This is quite a
small species. I could tell I had males and females as the males had red coloring on the inside of their forked tail and the females got
plump bodies. I never saw spawning, but during one water change when I lowered the depth of the water I could see tiny fry swimming.
I let them go for a while and the fry got bigger. I took a fine net and caught some of the fry to move them to a 2 ½ gallon plastic tank. I
had caught more than I thought as the fry were of different sizes with some so small they were difficult to see. I fed Golden Pearls
powder and squeezed a used sponge filter (sponge grunge) into the tank. I later added live baby brine shrimp to the mix. The adults are
small, so you can imagine how small the fry are. They have been growing quite slowly. I have seen other fry in the parental tank as they
spawn continuously. I’ll probably be able to harvest more fry for other BAP entries.
I’m planning to stay home in December and January and set up more fish to spawn. I’ll close by wishing everyone a happy
holiday season!
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Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
Fish Market:
<Contact the Club Secretary or enter an on-line forum post to list items in this section. When
submitting, whether it be via hard-copy, an e-mail or a forum post, please include your entire contact
information (full name, phone number, and e-mail address) to ensure accurate and timely feedback.>

FOR SALE: RAS-logo’ed items; various types of shirts, hats, jackets, towels, soft briefcases, etc.
Contact Queensboro Apparel Company [http://raleighaquariumsociety.qbstores.com/]. {never expires}

FOR SALE: Blackworms; @ $15.00/pound or $8.00/half pound. Delivery mechanism varies (call or
send e-mail). Contact Gerald Pottern [(919)556-8845 or gbpottern@yahoo.com]. {never expires}

FREE: RAS bumper stickers; 6” oval, black print on white background, can be removed and
reapplied. Contact Michael Maieli [(919)848-3053 or michaelmaieli@aol.com]. {never expires}

WANTED: Back issues of assorted tropical fish, plant, pond, or aquarium hobbyist magazines and
literature. Contact Todd Wenzel [(919)791-7352 or wenzelt@netzero.net]. {never expires}

WANTED: Unwanted aquarium fish; don’t flush, rehome them! Contact NC Fish Rescue in Winston
Salem. [http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fish-Rescue-Of-NC/261786897257532]. {never expires}

FREE: Miscellaneous tanks & equipment. I’m shutting down my fishroom and giving away most of
my stuff. Contact Bob Goldstein [(919)870-8159 or rgoldstein@rjgacarolina.com]. {expires 1/31/15}

FOR SALE: Discus & Angelfish; best quality at the best price. Contact Guy Henriette [(514)967-2680
or guyhenriette@hotmail.com]. {expires 1/31/15}

BRAZIL TRIP: Fish collecting trip on the Rio Negro; 1/24/15-2/7/15; recent cancellations have freed
up space. $2500.00 (n/i airfare). Contact Scott Dowd [sdowd@neaq.org]. {expires 1/31/15}

FOR SALE: Acropora frags; fresh cuts from mother colonies, can send pictures and details. Contact
Ralph Anderson [(804)986-1551 or reefjunkie3@gmail.com]. {expires 2/28/15}

FOR SALE: Cleaning shop skimmers; brand new, with power heads, $100-$350. Contact Melissa
Goldsmith [(919)909-1478 or fishstix@yahoo.com] . {expires 2/28/15}

FOR SALE: 55 gallon tank setup; stand, filer, accessories. $300.00. Contact Pat Clements [(919)2727212 or plwinnc@netscape.net]. {expires 2/28/15}

FOR TRADE: Fancy Guppies; any color scheme. Will trade for white, gray, or back convicts. Contact
Michael Maieli [(919)848-3053 or michaelmaieli@aol.com]. {expires 3/1/31}

xx
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Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
Fish Posts:
<Assorted aquatic-related snippets of Information regarding club news, forum discussions, hobbyist
or manufacturer web blogs/sites, industry news, RAS e-mail/snail mail, or other published materials.>
Alligator Snapping Turtle in Pineville Reservoir
By Simon Wray, KVAL staff
The first alligator snapping turtle found in the Central Oregon wilderness was pulled out of the
Pineville Reservoir, the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife reported. The department killed the
turtle, which it says is an invasive species in Oregon and native to the Southeast. A man reported
seeing the giant turtle in the reservoir while fishing. “I’d hate to see these turtles get established in
Oregon," said ODFW Invasive Species Coordinator John Boatner. "We already have problems in the
Willamette Valley with common snapping turtles.” Officials said the alligator snapping turtle is the
largest freshwater turtle in North America, and can grow up to 250 pounds. Department biologists
think it was a pet that someone released into the reservoir. “People get these turtles when they are
small and release them when they get too big and aggressive to keep as pets”.
Big Turtle Caught by Big Angler
By David Strege, Yahoo staff writer
A fisherman in Oklahoma was targeting catfish in Mill Creek at Eufala Lake when he got a huge
surprise at the end of his line. Dave Harrell of Edmond, Oklahoma, hooked into a gigantic, scary,
prehistoric-looking, can-do-damage-with-its-jaws alligator snapping turtle, known as the largest
freshwater turtle by weight in the world. Harrell hooked the beast and brought it to the boat. Then his
friend somehow wrestled it into the boat so a photo could be taken of Harrell holding up his catch
(which isn’t recommended by the way). As is protocol for this protected species, the anglers released
the live turtle back into the water. Harrell estimated the weight of the alligator snapping turtle as being
about 100 pounds (they generally reach 150-175 pounds). It is believed that alligator snapping turtles,
which get their name from the keels on their shells that look like ridges on an alligator’s back, are
capable of living to 200 years old (estimates of 80-120 years are more likely). They’ve lived up to 70
years in captivity and they can be dangerous. They have powerful jaws that can injure a person,
easily damaging skin and bone. For the most part they’re going to avoid people. Oklahoma Fish and
Game’s Michael Bergin does not advise anyone to handle the turtle as Harrell did. “He had it in a way
it wasn’t going to get him, but most people aren’t going to be able to handle a turtle like that. You can’t
tell, but the neck on that turtle can come out a lot further than that and they can definitely injure a
person.” Bergin advises anyone hooking into a turtle like this to cut the line and leave the hook. “That
hook inside the turtle will eventually work itself out or rust itself out, and the turtle will be fine. And so
will your body parts”.
Page 10 of 24
Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
Saving the Sea Turtles
By Hannah Miller, Raleigh N&O correspondent
Page 11 of 24
Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
Cold-Stun Season is Off to a Busy Start
e-mailed by The National Aquarium, Waterblog web page
Page 12 of 24
Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
A New Larger Space for Sea Turtle Rescues
By Kareema Charles, Raleigh N&O Reporter
Page 13 of 24
Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
Fish School:
<Academic aquatic information regarding biology, chemistry, physics, earth science, math, etc., in
textual, diagrammatical, graphical, or tabular format of interest to the membership. All textbook, sales,
magazine, internet, catalog, or other data is copyrighted by their respective authors/manufacturers
and listed when provided. Any included web links in this material are not operational.>
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January 2015
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Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
Fish Tales:
<Assorted aquatic-related articles of information obtained from various sources (usually those listed in
the “Fish References” section). Full author and/or organizational credit are listed when provided.>
Going Reptilian: An Aquarist’s Introduction to Turtles
By Paul Demas, TFH Magazine contributor
Turtles can make fascinating and endearing aquarium residents, but their care requirements are much different
than those of other aquatic pets. Keeping turtles was a natural way for my aquarium hobby to evolve. Why do
many aquarists include one or more turtle tanks in their collections? Like fish, turtles can be fascinating to
watch. Many have attractive colors and markings along with interesting behaviors. They are also pets to be
watched, as they don’t enjoy being handled; they are not even like some snakes and lizards that enjoy
lounging on the shoulders of their owners. On the other hand, the fact that turtles do not like to be cuddled and
do not require constant attention can really be an advantage - something an aquarist can appreciate. This does
not, of course, preclude one-on-one interaction with a pet turtle.
Like cichlids or triggerfish, turtles recognize their owners and beg for food. One of my turtles is an eastern
painted turtle that will eagerly accept food from my hands. In fact, it will climb out of the water onto its basking
platform to get food, and then dive back into the water to eat. Everybody gets a kick out of it when we perform
this trick for them, apparently even the turtle. With a lifespan of over 30 years, a turtle does require a long-term
commitment. The longevity of turtles is a plus for me, but you need to seriously think about it when considering
adding a turtle to your collection. Aquarists will not be surprised by my warning that you should never release
your unwanted turtles into the wild. The possible consequences of releasing any plant or animal include
destruction of the local ecosystem and a likely death for the specimen, not to mention the risk of fines and
imprisonment for the irresponsible person doing the release. Even if an animal is native to your area, releasing
captive stock risks introducing non-native diseases to the local populations, as well as having the captivitysoftened animal die. Depending on species, a turtle may be rather inexpensive, but as with fish, certain
species have a giant price tag. Any turtle requires an investment for a tank or other habitat, filtration, lighting
and heating equipment, etc. Get a sufficiently large habitat from the start. Depending on species, that cute little
4-inch turtle may one day be 12 inches long or more.
Housing - When some people think of turtlekeeping, they picture one of those small plastic turtle bowls with a
fake tree. Unfortunately, those bowls are like goldfish bowls—they doom their inhabitants to a miserable
existence and premature death. Turtles have specific needs that must be met, and turtle bowls meet none of
them. To properly house a turtle, you must first learn about the species of turtle you are interested in, since
different species of turtles can have different requirements. A lot of your experience with keeping fish will come
in handy for turtlekeeping. Remember, just as with maintaining aquariums, there is no one right way to keep a
turtle and you will encounter plenty of different advice, some of it less than useful, even counterproductive.
Does the turtle you’re interested in bask regularly, or does it never leave the water except to lay eggs? Is it an
active predator, energetically chasing down fish meals, or is it an ambush predator that lies on the bottom
waiting for prey to swim or crawl by? Is it full-grown when you buy it, or will it grow much larger? Does it eat
primarily vegetation or meat, and does its proper diet change as it grows into adulthood? Is it a peaceful
animal, or will it harass or attack tankmates? Well, you need to know these things before you can set up the
habitat, and you need to set up the habitat before you obtain your turtle. Do those questions seem familiar?
The tragedies that can result from impulse buying of tropical fish can also result when you buy a turtle
unprepared. Glass aquariums are the most popular type of turtle housing. They are very easy to clean, which
is of great importance, and they enable you to view from the side, through the glass. Other options for housing
include plastic tubs and containers, many of which work out nicely for turtles. They also can make great
temporary houses or feeding tanks. You can only view your pet from the top, however, and you have to be
careful using heaters and heat lights with such enclosures, which can melt or catch fire. Another option is an
indoor pond, and perhaps an outdoor pond in the summer. While many people build an outdoor pond for fish,
as a kid I built one for turtles, and it really let me enjoy their natural behavior. The size needed will vary
depending upon species, but bigger is always better. While a hatchling or juvenile turtle can be kept in a
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Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
smaller tank, a larger tank will soon be required. A 30 gallon tank is the absolute minimum for a single turtle of
the smaller species, and if you plan on keeping a larger animal, or more than one, you will need a 50-gallon
tank or even larger. Breeder tanks are excellent since they provide plenty of room for turtles to swim and turn
around in. Few fish make specific demands on how you decorate their tank and part of the fun of owning an
aquarium is decorating it. Turtles need a different approach. For most, a minimalist approach is best, avoiding
substrate and decorations. Softshell turtles need a soft sand substrate in order to thrive, and in most cases
gravel on the bottom of the tank is just a dirt magnet. Almost any turtle will quickly destroy an aquascape,
eating or shredding plants and knocking over decorations. A barebottom tank with no ornaments is best.
Basking Spot - A basking spot is one essential accessory for most aquatic turtle tanks. You have probably
seen several turtles sitting on a log, sometimes piled on top of each other, legs stretched out, soaking in the
rays of the sun. Most aquatic turtles have to bask if they are to survive and grow properly in our care. Basking
enables a cold-blooded turtle to regulate its body temperature and allows it to absorb vital UVB rays. A basking
spot can be as simple as a large rock or piece of driftwood on which your turtle can easily climb completely out
of the water. Be careful when piling rocks on top of each other; these animals are strong and can knock over
an unsteady rock pile, often with tragic consequences, since a turtle will drown if it is pinned and cannot reach
the surface to breathe. There are also commercially made basking spots. A suitable spot will allow your turtle to
climb completely out of the water and will support its weight; if you plan on keeping more than one turtle, it will
be strong and roomy enough for them all. It must also remain stationary, as a floating platform that does not
remain under the light source does not serve its purpose. Whether you buy or make one, consider that a
floating platform that can be fixed in place under the light with suction cups or by some other means has an
advantage over a chunk of rock. Rocks take up a lot of space, cutting down on the vital swimming room. A
great do-it-yourself project is an above-tank basking platform that rests on top of the tank, which is filled all the
way. It is enclosed by walls to keep the turtle inside, and has a ramp to allow the turtle to climb onto it. This
basking spot allows a deeper swimming area, and it also allows you to use any type of filter that you wish.
Normally, due to the lower water levels in a turtle tank, you are restricted as to what kind of filter you can use.
Filtration - If you keep very large fish, you know how messy they can be. A turtle is worse—a very messy eater
that produces a great deal of waste. Filtration plays a key role in keeping the turtle’s housing clean and
maintaining its health. Both mechanical and biological filtration are very important in a turtle setup, since water
cleanliness and quality are as vital to your success with turtles as they are with fish. A popular type of filter
used by many turtlekeepers, especially in smaller tanks, is an internal power filter that is completely
submersible and can be used in tanks with low water levels, but they have the disadvantage of taking up
valuable space in the tank. My favorite choice for a turtle tank is a canister filter—they are very powerful, can
easily handle low water levels, and do not take up tank space. A hang-on power filter cannot usually be used
on a partially filled tank, but manufacturers make special turtle tanks with a cutout at one end that allows you to
hang a power filter at the water level. Regardless of how good the filtration is, water changes are a necessary
part of turtle care. Frequency will depend on several factors, such as the amount of water the enclosure holds,
size and number of turtles, whether or not you use decorations and substrate, and if you feed your turtle in its
housing or in a separate feeding tank. It will probably be necessary to do weekly water changes in order to
maintain clean water for your turtles; as with fish, the more frequent the water changes, the better it is for your
turtles. From time to time you should completely take down your turtle enclosure and give it a thorough
cleaning. While this practice would almost never be recommended for a fish tank, for a turtle tank it should be a
regular part of your routine. You can use a diluted bleach solution or white vinegar to disinfect the emptied
tank, just make sure to rinse thoroughly afterwards.
Lighting - The correct lighting will provide your turtle with three key elements that are vital to its well-being.
These are elements that a turtle would normally get from exposure to sunlight in the wild: UVA, UVB, and heat.
Let’s look first at a turtle’s UV requirements. UV (ultraviolet) light from the sun comprises three categories of
wavelengths: UVA, UVB, and UVC. The first two are important for turtles, but aquarists are most familiar with
UVC, which is used in UV sterilizers. No UV light is visible to humans, but most if not all reptiles can probably
see UVA wavelengths, and UVA exposure is important for many turtles because it induces natural behavior
such as feeding and reproduction. Most reptile bulbs on the market will give off the necessary UVA. Many of
the bulbs offered for reptiles also provide the more important UVB lighting. UVB is essential for your turtle’s
health and growth. It allows for the synthesis of vitamin D3, which in turn allows for the absorption and
metabolism of calcium. All the calcium in the world will not do any good for your turtle unless it has the needed
vitamin D. Thus, correct UVB exposure is essential for the development of a healthy skeletal system, and
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Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
without it your turtle will have such problems as poor shell growth, metabolic bone disease, and a shorter life
span. While a few species of turtles do not require UVB, if a turtle basks, you can assume that it requires UVB
lighting. UVB bulbs are offered in different percentages; you should choose a bulb that emits 5 percent UVB.
UVB bulbs may be fluorescent, compact fluorescent, or mercury vapor. The most common are fluorescent,
which are fairly inexpensive and reliable. They require more expensive fixtures, but many aquarists already
have fixtures that would work perfectly for them. Many compact fluorescents are made to fit standard
incandescent sockets and are often put into an inexpensive clamp-on fixture. Newer to the market are
mercury-vapor bulbs that also fit in a standard incandescent fixture. They also give off heat and can provide
UVB lighting at greater distances—up to several feet as opposed to the average 6 to 12 inches for the others.
UVB lighting cannot penetrate glass, so don’t use a glass top for your turtle enclosure. Even a fine mesh top
can block UVB, so a screen top should have the biggest possible openings. Keep in mind that reptile bulbs are
similar to aquarium bulbs in that they lose effectiveness before burning out. Always follow the manufacturer’s
recommendations for replacement, usually every six to ten months. Also pay attention to their proper
placement, which must be the correct distance from the basking spot. As a general rule, regardless of the type
of bulb, you’ll want to provide approximately 10 to 12 hours of exposure per day. A timer makes it easy to keep
this photoperiod constant. Fish usually do best with one constant temperature in the aquarium, but turtles need
different temperature zones. A turtle basks so that it can raise its body temperature, which in turn increases its
metabolism and aids in digestion. After basking, a turtle needs to be able to dive into cooler water. The basking
spot should be 85° to 90°F, heated by a separate incandescent light or a combination basking/UVB light. The
water should be about 10 degrees cooler than the basking spot. Like some large cichlids, your turtle may be
rough on the aquarium heater, so keep a close eye on it and protect it if necessary. Use thermometers to
monitor the water temperature, as well as the air temperature at and away from the basking spot.
Nutrition - A poor diet is the cause of sickness in many turtles. You should offer a great variety of food to your
turtle, just as you would for your fish. Like fish, different turtle species have different nutritional requirements.
Research so you can meet your turtle’s specific needs. Remember that the diets of some turtles change as
they mature. One of the fun parts of caring for a turtle is feeding time. It seems they are always begging for
food. Commercially available turtle diets have come a long way from the dried ant eggs that were included with
those turtle death bowls half a century ago. Specially formulated turtle pellets or sticks should be the staple of a
turtle’s diet. I offer my turtles several different brands, and I continually rotate them. My turtles also love koi
food, which is very similar in composition to turtle food. It’s just another way to add a little spice to their diet.
While pellets are an excellent source of food for our turtles, this should by no means be the only food that we
offer them. There are also plenty of other convenient and commercially available foods that we can use, many
of which you might be already giving your fish. Hatchling turtles enjoy frozen or freeze-dried bloodworms. Krill
or river shrimp make an excellent treat, and you may find freeze-dried crickets, grasshoppers, and snails for
sale, all of which make excellent treats and help expand a turtle’s diet. Plant matter is also very important and
should be a regular part of the diet of omnivorous or herbivorous species. Many aquatic plants will be readily
accepted by your turtle. If you maintain a planted fish tank, your turtle should welcome some of those cuttings
you normally throw away. Romaine lettuce is good, and I have found that my turtles like dandelion leaves.
Make sure when feeding plants that they are free of any herbicides or pesticides. Live prey can increase the
variety of food we offer our turtles, and for a few species it may even be necessary. Your turtle will readily
accept various live insects, worms, snails, and small fish, all of which are often part of their natural diet. These
can be gutloaded or dusted with calcium. Don’t overfeed. Giving in to a turtle’s begging can lead to serious
health problems, including obesity. Feeding too much food will also increase the amount of wastes produced.
Keep in mind that a healthy turtle will almost never turn down food. Recommendations vary, but a general
guideline is to offer an amount of pellets roughly the equivalent of the volume of the turtle’s head (not including
the neck), since a turtle’s head is about the same size as its stomach. Hatchling turtles should be fed every day
until they are about a year old. Older turtles should be fed every-other day (or smaller amounts every day).
Another option is to feed a high-protein food like pellets one day and then offer plant matter the next day. A
well-balanced diet will take care of a turtle’s needs, but you might want to take the precaution of offering some
form of calcium supplementation. I’ve already mentioned dusting or gutloading live prey. Another great option is
cuttlebone—the same cuttlebone sold for pet birds. Cuttlebone will float in water and many turtles enjoy
nibbling on it. Turtles will only eat in water. Turtles are very messy eaters, so consider using a feeding tank.
This avoids getting a lot of mess in the regular habitat. Also, many turtles will defecate within 30 minutes after
eating, so if you can leave your turtle in its feeding tank for a while, you can keep even more pollution out of
the main tank.
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Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
Turtles & Fish - With few exceptions, a fish tank is a terrible place to house a turtle. These animals have very
different needs, and both cannot be properly cared for in the same aquarium. Plus, even a very small turtle will
destroy an aquascape, and almost any turtle will happily dine on your prized tropical fish. Turtles should be
housed separately from fish.
Turtle Species - Now let’s look at some of the more popular turtles available. There are so many species that
all we can cover here are those you are most likely to find at your local pet store.
Red-Ear Sliders Trachemys scripta elegans - This is the first turtle that comes to mind for most people. It is unfortunately
associated with those death bowls of yesteryear. But they are popular for good reason; they have beautiful markings and
colors, including red markings on the side of the face. Red-ear sliders do get large, with females growing to 12 inches or
more, so a large setup is necessary. They are also eager baskers and active swimmers. Like other sliders, they are
omnivores, with their diet becoming more herbivorous as they mature. Historically they have also been the most abused
or neglected turtles, and the most likely to be released.
Yellow-Belly Sliders Trachemys scripta scripta - Many sliders and similar cooters are available besides the red-ear, but all
of them have very similar care requirements. The yellow-belly slider is one of my personal favorites, a very hardy turtle
with a striking yellow color, although as with many turtles, the colors fade as they mature. Yellow-bellies tend to be a bit
smaller than the red-ear slider.
Painted Turtles Chrysemys picta - Closely related to the sliders, and with similar requirements, painted turtles are among
the most beautiful turtles. There are four subspecies, the eastern C. p. picta, midland C. p. marginata, western C. p. bellii,
and southern C. p. dorsalis, with one being more beautiful than the other. I highly recommend these turtles, as they make
great pets. With the exception of the western painted turtle they are smaller than others, with some remaining in the 5- to
6-inch range.
Map Turtles Graptemys - There are several different species of map turtles available. They have some of the most
interesting patterns and shells of any turtle, which give them their common name. Map turtles can be among the more
difficult-to-keep common turtles—clean water is an absolute must, or their health will quickly deteriorate. Many
recommend that map turtles are best left to experienced turtlekeepers, but really the secret to success is clean water and
a good diet. Most map turtles are omnivorous, although the diet of each species will vary slightly. They also tend to be a
little on the shy side.
Mud and Musk Turtles Kinosternon and Sternotherus - These two types of turtles are very similar, and there are many
different species available. While they don’t have the beautiful colors of some of the others, they do make for very hardy,
interesting, and fascinating pets. They are also smaller (under 7") and some species a lot smaller. These turtles are
decidedly aquatic and rarely leave the water, but a basking spot should still be available to them. They are not big
swimmers, preferring to crawl on the bottom instead and prefer shallow water. Provide some rocks so they will have a
sure footing and perhaps even a hiding spot. For the most part, mud and musk turtles will eat almost anything although
they tend to be more carnivorous. Be careful, as these turtles tend to be a little nippy also. With so many different species
available, make sure you research the type you decide upon to get more specific information.
Page 20 of 24
Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
SoMeThInG’s PhIsHy”:
… Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach him how to fish and he will sit in a boat and drink
beer all day. -Author Unknown
Page 21 of 24
Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
Go Fish!:
Page 22 of 24
Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
RAS Sponsors:
<The following businesses give RAS club members discounts on purchases when displaying a valid
membership card. Please help support these stores. If you would like to become a club sponsor, just
contact the club secretary at raleighaquariumsociety@yahoo.com for more information.>
Animal Jungle (20% discount on dry goods)
4318 Holland Road, Virginia Beach, VA 23452; (757) 463-4065; www.animaljungle.com
Down Under Saltwater Fish & Coral (15% discount on dry goods, 20% discount on livestock)
1543 US Highway 70 West, Garner, NC 27529; (919) 662-8820; www.downundersaltwater.com
Fins, Furs, & Feathers Pet Center (10% discount on everything except tanks)
303 South Horner Boulevard, Sanford, NC 27330; (919) 718-0850;
Fins ‘N Fangs (10% discount on fish)
1490 Garner Station Boulevard, Raleigh, NC 27603; (919) 615-0130;
Fintastic (10% discount on dry goods)
4231 South Boulevard, Charlotte, NC 28273; (704) 525-0049; www.fintastic.us
Pet Mania (10% discount on everything)
7901-125 Falls Of Neuse Road, Raleigh, 27615; (919) 676-3225; www.petmanianc.com
5289 Sunset Lake Road, Holly Springs, NC, 27540; (919) 362-8711; www.petmanianc.com
924 Gateway Commons Circle, Wake Forest, NC, 27587; (919) 554-8898; www.petmanianc.com
Pet Market (50% discount on saltwater fish/coral purchases over $100.00)
5711-E West Market Street, Greensboro, NC 27409; (336) 253-1294; www.petmarket.co
Reef Keepers Aquarium (10% discount on everything)
1673 Old US Highway 70 West, Clayton, NC 27520; (919) 359-2424; www.reefkeepersaquarium.com
The Pet Pad (10% discount on everything)
1239 Maynard Road, Cary, NC 27511; (919) 481-6614; www.petpadpets.com
Page 23 of 24
Volume 34, Issue 1
January 2015
RAS Membership Application:
Membership in the Raleigh Aquarium Society entitles you to many privileges including:
 Discounts at all club functions.
 Voting rights on all club business issues.
 Auction benefits (larger commission split, free priority stickers).
 Membership discount card for purchases at all participating club sponsors.
 Ability to post items for sale in the club newsletter and YAHOO internet forum.
 Ability to participate in group orders of fish and supplies from various mail-order companies.
Annual RAS membership dues for individuals or families are $20.00 per year and are in effect
from January 1st to December 31st of the current calendar year. Payment is due by January
31st. When joining at any other time of the year, dues will be assessed at $5.00 plus $5.00 per
quarter for each quarter (whole or partial) remaining in the calendar year.
PLEASE PRINT LEGIBLY FOR ACCURACY!
Full Name:
(print & sign)
________________________________________________________________
Street Address:
________________________________________________________________
City, State, Zip:
________________________________________________________________
Telephone(s):
(day & night)
________________________________________________________________
E-mail Address:
________________________________________________________________
Favorite Fish:
________________________________________________________________
Payment Info:
date = _____/_____/_____; amount = $ ___________; type = CASH or CHECK
renewal? = YES or NO
Please mail (or email) this completed form to:
Club Secretary
The Raleigh Aquarium Society
Post Office Box 31564
Raleigh, NC 27612
(USA)
or give to the club secretary at any meeting. Thank you for your interest, support, and participation!
Page 24 of 24

JANUARY 2015 Newsletter - Raleigh Aquarium Society

Transcription

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