The 10 Imperatives to Dressing the Man from the

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Free e-Master Class
The 10 Imperatives to Dressing the Man from the Inside Out – ‘Undressed for
Success’
It is not just Women who Turn Heads…
I know when I am in the company of a well-dressed man. As he walks into the room he
attracts attention and interest, heads will turn… it is not just women who turn heads. The
well-dressed man makes a statement through his walk and choice of image and style, he
exudes, ‘I am confident and successful’, and these are two major qualities admired by all.
The ten imperatives to dressing the man are really about ‘undressing’ the man. Because
being a well-dressed man is as much about the outer image as it is the inner personality
and mental attitudes. Your choice of garments resonate who you are, your attitudes,
profession and reflect your personality.
So what does ‘well dressed’ mean:
He wears garments and accessories that…
• Complement him physically
• Express his personality
• Are appropriate for the occasion
• Are of sartorial style, and in vogue, enough!
• Reflects his strong mental attitude to success
Complements him Physically
The garments worn fit him with ease, not drawing too much attention but certainly sending
out precise messages of confidence and poise. They are the correct size and fit for his face
and body shape and he makes the best of his physical attributes.
Expresses his Personality
The outer image reflects the total person, lifestyle, profession, mental focus, who he is and
who he expects to become.
Are Appropriate for the Occasion
Clothing represents his different personas from daytime to playtime, business to pleasure
with the same effortless style in all areas.
Sartorial Style, and in Vogue, enough!
His appearance is crafted and tailored, a stylish image that is current and enough in vogue
not to be dated or aging.
Reflect his strong mental attitude to success
His chosen style and image reflects his high levels of self-esteem, belief in his skills,
abilities and represents his professional expectations.
Presence and Power Limited: 35 Alan Hocken Way, London E15 3AT
Tel:0044 (0)20 8534 6473 www.fearlessengagement.com
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1. The Knowledge Zone – Developing your Ability in being Well-Dressed
Developing your ability in being a ‘Well-Dressed man,’ requires you to understand some
facts about body and face shapes, clothing lines and perception. Imagine a well-dressed
man walking into a room, right now! Where is your focus of attention?
Look at the man who has chosen clothes with proper fit and construction, length of cuffs,
jacket sleeve and jacket length, in addition to good trouser length and cut together with the
perfect shape of tie knot and colour. Then your focus will be on the overall image and
manner of his walk, which you may interpret as confident. This perception occurs because
the well-dressed man appears to be in total control. His clothes do not distract you but
influence you.
On the other hand, when the suit is crumpled (due to wearing the jacket in the car, train,
plane!), the sleeves are slightly too long as is the jacket length, the shirt is pale lemon, and
it is just not your colour; with a small knot used for the tie, and your hobby is rugby so you
have a more muscular neck than most, which the shirt collar and tie rub against… chances
are you will be fidgety and the perception could well be that you are anxious. And you
probably are, because the clothing is either to big or too small, and it is irritating you and in
turn you become irritated.
You then transmit this signal of irritation and it may well be perceived by the audience that
you are less than in control and appear ‘not’ particularly confident. Results – ‘he is
anxious, and look at the state of that suit…’ Now your clothes are speaking louder than you
and they are distracting the audiences’ attention. Now you must work twice as hard as the
well-dressed man to regain their attention.
Dressing the man and grooming the women have some common threads and the clothing
line is one.
2. Understanding the Clothing Line
When we look at a line, our eyes automatically lengthen it, making it appear longer than it
really is. Our eyes continue to move vertically until something breaks the line and makes it
travel horizontally.
Look at the vertical lines in the centre and compare them, the left appears to look longer
even though they are in fact the same length. The eyes will follow the upward bars making
them appear longer than they really are. The downward slope of the bars on the right bring
the eyes down, making the vertical line appear shorter.
If these vertical lines were people of the same height, the visual effect of the upward lines
would make the person on the left appear taller and slimmer on account of the visual illusion
being created by the line.
Presence and Power Limited: 35 Alan Hocken Way, London E15 3AT
Tel:0044 (0)20 8534 6473 www.fearlessengagement.com
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Reflect on the picture of Pierce Brosnan 007. Pierce has
an Angular Body Shape (with a drop of more than 7"
between his chest and waist making his shoulders wider
than the hips. Now consider the clothing line. He is
wearing a single breasted jacket, taking our eye vertically
up the bodyline. Why? Although he is tall at 6’2”, he is
longer in the body than the legs. Therefore a double
breasted jacket would draw the eye to the button line that is
horizontal, going across the body making him appear out of
proportion in the shoulders, this will create the illusion that
he is shorter than his actual height of 6’2”. The clean lines
shown add to the already abundance of gravitas he
possesses, making the most of the attributes he was given
at birth. Notice the position of the shirtsleeve, showing 1/4
to 1/2" below the jacket (technically called a coat) sleeve
and the collar sitting 1/2 to 3/4" above the suit collar. The
tie knot being Windsor is perfect for his Angular Face
Shape because it is wider than other tie knots, and it is
complementary to outline of his face. A well-dressed man that I would invite to my dinner
party – anytime!
Vertical Lines
Vertical lines in trousers or skirts, pleats or pin strips will create a slimming line. The
straighter and longer the line is, the greater the effect. WARNING! If lines are placed too far
apart, it can give a widening effect as they take on the eye line of becoming horizontal.
Horizontal Lines.
Horizontal lines draw the eye across the body, giving the appearance of greater width. This
will work if the intention was to balance out the narrow part of the body, such as a thin
neckline. WARNING! Placing vertical and horizontal lines will cancel out the effect so do
not do it.
3. Determining your Body and Face Shape
How you present yourself has an enduring effect on your Presenters image and ultimately
your Reputation and Credibility. The author of ‘Simply Irresistible’ by Dr Raj Persaud has
written about current scientific work regarding the most attractive body and face shapes.
Some of the conclusions drawn are:
• The more symmetrical the body and face is the more attractive we are.
• The more intelligent we are thought to be
• And some of the conclusions are that the more attractive you appear, the more
successful you become.
Undressing for success is concerned with utilising clothing to enhance body lines, creating
the closest symmetrical body shape possible. Material is used to fill in gaps within the body
shape (such as rounded shoulders that would require wider padding set further back within
the jacket) and using clothing lines to distract the eye or force it to follow a direction. Once
you have determined your face and body shape you will be able to choose the finest collars,
ties, shirt style, trousers, suits, in fact any piece of clothing to power up your reputation,
credibility and impact.
Presence and Power Limited: 35 Alan Hocken Way, London E15 3AT
Tel:0044 (0)20 8534 6473 www.fearlessengagement.com
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4. Determining Your Body Shape
There are three main categories of male body shape:
1. Angular
2. Straight
3. Contoured
Angular Body Shape
An Angular triangle body will have a drop of more than 7" between the chest and waist with
shoulders that are wider than the hips.
Straight Body Shape
A Straight body will have a drop of less than 6" with an overall appearance of straightness,
irrespective of size.
Contoured Body Shape
A Contoured body has an overall softness and with weight gain can often appear round and
bulky. Shoulders sometimes slope with a rounded appearance. Necks are often thicker
giving a stocky appearance.
Presence and Power Limited: 35 Alan Hocken Way, London E15 3AT
Tel:0044 (0)20 8534 6473 www.fearlessengagement.com
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5. Determining Your Face Shape
Look at your face in the mirror, pull back your hair to expose as much of the face as
possible, now reflect on the face shapes below and decide which one you are most like. If
in doubt look at your chin area, this is usually an accurate guideline. Now that you have
assessed your face and body shape you will be able to choose the finest collars, ties, shirt
style, trousers, suits, in fact any piece of clothing to power up your reputation, credibility and
impact.
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Angular faces have obvious angles, straight lines and chiselled features. Shapes will be
Rectangle, Diamond or Square.
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Curved faces have features that are softer and rounded with no obvious angles. Shapes
will be Round, Pear, Heart and Oval.
Presence and Power Limited: 35 Alan Hocken Way, London E15 3AT
Tel:0044 (0)20 8534 6473 www.fearlessengagement.com
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6. Shirt Collars
The correct collar can make the difference between impact and being ignored or at worse
stared at. Now that you have determined your face and body shape, the next stage is
assessing which collars will achieve the greatest influence on your style and impact.
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Square faces need to avoid cut-away collars with short points as this emphasises the
squareness.
Rectangular faces need to avoid long narrow points as this makes them look longer.
They also need to avoid rounded collars.
Oval faces should avoid long and pin collars.
Round and Pear Shaped faces should avoid short points.
Heart Shaped faces should avoid long points and narrow spread.
Impactful sites with tons of information on collars visit:
http://www.tmlewin.co.uk
http://www.ctshirts.co.uk
Presence and Power Limited: 35 Alan Hocken Way, London E15 3AT
Tel:0044 (0)20 8534 6473 www.fearlessengagement.com
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7. Ties
My Grandmother used to tell me “the tie makes the man”. And I totally agree with her, you
would too if you had known her. But her sentiments are correct, well they are, when I add
information.
The tie makes the outfit is a more accurate statement. Backtrack to the picture of Pierce
Brosnan. Change the tie to a paisley pattern with a small knot, and you will agree he would
look ridiculous. Not because the material is paisley or the small knot but because his face
is angular, therefore requires sharpness or a complete shape such as a sharp circle but not
swirls. Contour body shape looks confident and at ease with swirls because the shape
reflects the body shape.
Guide to tie patterns according to your face shape
• Angular Body Shape – solid, sharp, diagonal stripe, foulard, pin dot, geometric.
Recommended knots – Windsor, Half Windsor and the Four Hand if body scale is slim and
tall.
• Straight Body Shape – solid, stripe, foulard, polka dot, paisley.
Recommended knots – Windsor, Half Windsor and the Four Hand if body scale is slim and
tall.
• Contour Body Shape – solid, soft stripe, foulard, paisley.
Recommended knots – Windsor or Half Windsor
The three usual knots are:
• Four in Hand for the standard and narrow spread
• Half Windsor for the wider spread
• Windsor for the cutaway.
• Ties should always touch the top of the waistband or belt
This site is magnificent should you want to refresh how to tie a particular tie knot.
http://www.tieknot.com/
Presence and Power Limited: 35 Alan Hocken Way, London E15 3AT
Tel:0044 (0)20 8534 6473 www.fearlessengagement.com
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Tie Patterns
Plain
A tie of one solid colour, either 'eye' catching or subdued. Every man should
have at least one as they can be worn with any combination of suit and shirt
pattern.
Polka Dots
These can be any size from small to large. They will complement any shirt and
suit. The smaller the dot, the more formal the tie.
Stripes
Often based on regimental or old school ties. Available in a variety of widths
and colours. It is advisable not to have the same width stripe in the tie, shirt and
suit.
Floral
Available in a variety of patterns and colours. They look great when worn with
the right outfit.
Club
Evenly spaced emblems or motifs depicting the wearers' interests. Club ties
should only be worn by those who are entitled to wear them.
Foulard
This style is small evenly spaced patterns of flowers, circles, shapes etc., on a
plain background. They are available in a variety of colours. The subdued ties
are the more formal.
Plaid
Plaid ties are ideal for country pursuits as they are considered casual. They are
usually made of either wool or cotton.
Paisley
These are available in a variety of colours. This pattern can be worn with a
variety of outfits.
Geometric
This can be a zigzag, vertically striped or a large diamond pattern. The larger
designs tend to be more casual.
Presence and Power Limited: 35 Alan Hocken Way, London E15 3AT
Tel:0044 (0)20 8534 6473 www.fearlessengagement.com
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8. Shirts
A high quality shirt is essential. Material must be fine cotton, smooth to the touch and be of
a quality that will not crease during the day and take you into the evening. Visit makers
such as Charles Tyrwhitt http://www.ctshirts.co.uk/ or for the finest quality fabric visit Eton
http://www.etonshirts.com/
Guide to shirt patterns according to your face shape
• Angular Body Shape – solid colour, sharp pin stripe, diagonal stripe – slim or classic
shape.
• Straight Body Shape – solid, striped and where possible slim fitted will give emphasis to
the angular body shape.
• Contour Body Shape – solid, soft stripe – shirts must be of a classic shape.
Position of Collars and Cuffs
• Collars should sit 1/2 to 3/4" above suit collars.
• Sleeves should show 1/4 to 1/2" below suit cuff.
• Shirt length should be about 8" below waist to allow for tucking in trousers.
Presence and Power Limited: 35 Alan Hocken Way, London E15 3AT
Tel:0044 (0)20 8534 6473 www.fearlessengagement.com
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9. Suits and Jackets
All men can wear a fitted jacket but your shape will determine which style is best.
Guide to the shape of Suits and Jackets - The options are:
• Fitted Continental Single Button
Angular or Straight Body Shape
• Classic English Cut (Saville Row) Single or Double Breasted
Angular or Straight Body Shape
• Relaxed-fitted American Jacket
Contour Body Shape
Size and proportions will also decide the need for a single or double-breasted jacket and the
button style. The fuller shape must avoid double-breasted jackets.
Pockets:
Angular Body Shape
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Besom or Flap
Straight Body Shape
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Besom or Flap
Contour Body Shape
•
Patch or Besom
Handkerchiefs:
Angular Body Shape
•
Pointed or Square
Straight Body Shape
•
Pointed or Square
Contour Body Shape
Ruffled
10. Proper Fit and Quality Construction
• Collars should curve smoothly around the back of neck with 1/2" of shirt collar showing.
• Jacket should lie flat on the shoulders. Fabric should follow the curve of the back.
Lapels should lay flat on the chest. Never, ever allow the backs of jackets to rumple, it
signals a cheap suit even if the opposite is true.
• Width of shoulders should skim the upper arm (sport jackets can be lower and dress
suits snug). The more snugly a fit the closer symmetrical shape is achieved.
• Check for extra wrinkles below the collar if square-shouldered ( a good tailor will resolve
this.) Arms should hang in the middle of sleeve.
• Armholes should be set as high as is comfortable so that it will allow more freedom of
movement (lower for sports jacket to allow for sweaters).
• Vents must not gape open. Length of jacket should be as short as it can be whilst
conforming to fashion, and should cover the curve of buttocks - i.e. V' below the crotch.
• Always try on suits and move around to test the fit. Reach up to ensure no pulling
occurs.
Presence and Power Limited: 35 Alan Hocken Way, London E15 3AT
Tel:0044 (0)20 8534 6473 www.fearlessengagement.com
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11. Trousers
• Straight trousers are good for all figure types. The width of the trouser bottom should
relate to the size of the foot - a skimpy cut will emphasise a large foot and will also make
the hips look larger.
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It is important to consider the length of the trousers. The skimpier cut, if too long, will
touch the top of the foot (inset) so the length will need to be shorter. With more
generous cuts, the trouser will skim the foot at the front and drop slightly towards the
back, giving maximum length to the leg.
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Turn-ups cannot drop at the back, as they produce a horizontal line. Therefore, they are
not good for short or the fuller men because they will make the legs look shorter.
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Plain trouser tops give a trimmer look but are somewhat restricting. Pleats offer more
room and prevent creasing. Pockets should lie flat without pulling at the sides. The fit of
trousers will be spoilt by the amount of things crammed in to the pockets.
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For sports jackets, the rule should be to combine a patterned jacket with plain slacks or
vice versa. The visual balance of the chest and hips should help you decide which is
best. Large shoulders – plain jacket, narrow shoulders – patterned.
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Patterned jackets limit the choice of trousers, so it is better to go for a textured jacket.
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For a smart casual look, button-down shirts made of Oxford cloth or standard shirts can
be worn with turtle or polo neck sweaters.
Presence and Power Limited: 35 Alan Hocken Way, London E15 3AT
Tel:0044 (0)20 8534 6473 www.fearlessengagement.com
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12. Wardrobe Planning for UK Men – Know the Message your are Delivering
Formal
Relaxed
Smart
Business Business Casual
SHIRTS
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Good quality cotton with smooth texture
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Lighter colour than suit, in white or pale ♦
pastel
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Deeper or stronger shades than formal
business
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Long sleeves
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Short sleeves
No sleeves
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Polo shirt
T-shirt only
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T-shirt with jacket
COLLAR
Standard
Button Down
Polo neck
CUFFS
Double cuffs with cufflinks
Plain cuffs without cufflinks
TIES
Woven or printed silk
Darker colour than shirt
Smaller patterns
With or without
Large print with motive and big colour swirls
SUITS
Good quality ‘pure’ wool
Solid colour in dark neutral shade
Medium or lighter shades
Discreet stripe
More texture or pattern than discreet stripe
BELTS
Black good quality leather
Brown or tan
Material
SHOES
Black leather with lacing
Black leather shoe slip on
Brown or tan
Slip ons
Trainers
Sandals
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Casual
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Presence and Power Limited: 35 Alan Hocken Way, London E15 3AT
Tel:0044 (0)20 8534 6473 www.fearlessengagement.com
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TROUSERS
Shade lighter than formal wear
Standard trousers
Chinos
Combat trouser
Corduroys
Jeans
JACKETS
Shade lighter than formal wear
Soft texture or pattern
Light weight or heavy
SOCKS
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Black or very, very dark blue
Navy, brown, tan etc.
White
Small motive on dark shades
ACCESSORIES
Top quality (less is more in size, colour and ♦
impact, example: briefcases, conference
folders, pens, watches, glasses in fact
anything that is not clothing but which you
have with you.)
Good quality not chunky or flashy
Chunky watches and rings
Presence and Power Limited: 35 Alan Hocken Way, London E15 3AT
Tel:0044 (0)20 8534 6473 www.fearlessengagement.com
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The Ultimate Grooming Tool for Men and Women – Are your Good enough to Eat?
We eat with our eyes first, then we smell the food and then we go for gold and eat it, and
93% of the experience of eating is in the look and smell and human interaction is no
different. You must look and smell good enough to eat!
The Tool - Pay Attention to Yourself morning, afternoon and evening… Killer impressions
begin and end with a commanding, credible and memorable YOU! Here are the 20
most terrible yet common failures that if ignored will kill your interaction – dead…
• Men
• Never; wear a shirt two days
running – ever! You may think
it smells fine but we are
immune to our own sense of
smell, but others are not.
• Dirt on collars and blood from
shaving, check in the morning
and during the day, if
necessary have a clean shirt
to change into if you suffer
form grubby necklines, also
check your showering routine
if this is happening, exfoliating
the neck area will help. –
women do this all the time.
• Always remove nose and ear
hair, it repulses certain people.
CHECK –CHECK and CHECK
again…
• Use hand creams to keep your
skin supple and ensuring a
handshake to remember – soft
hands are not just for women.
• Shower morning and evening,
if you suffer from body odour it
is essential you shower twice
a day. Have a friend tell you if
you body odour is becoming
bigger than you.
• Creased Jackets are awful,
they demonstrate a lack of
care and attention, never wear
a jacket whilst driving or on a
plane. Treat your clothes as
you wish to be treated yourself
– and if that is crumpled then,
well, I will leave you with that
thought.
• Women
• Pile on the make-up – it adds
years to you.
• Wear a bra that is too small for
your bust, it makes you look
cheap.
• Check for make-up or dirt on
collars and not just in the
morning; continue to check
throughout the day.
• Re-adjust your lingerie straps
every time you wear the
garment to ensure no slippage.
• Never wear your clothes too
tight – bra and panty lines look
awful.
• Check all your hosiery for runs
when washing them, wearing
them and throughout the day.
• Slips that show below the
hemline or skirt split are so
dated darling, just don’t do it.
It reminds people of their
Grandmother.
• Shape eyebrows, never let
them meet in the middle (you
will look like you are scowling),
pluck or wax regularly and this
goes for you legs and
underarms too.
• Both – Ensure this is
not You!
• Dandruff on clothes.
• Clothes that are pulled,
frayed, stained or unpressed.
• Underarm staining.
• Missing buttons or
hooks.
• Unkempt nails and skin.
• Unkempt shoes – run
down heals or toes, or
plain unpolished.
• Bad breath, drink plenty
of water to keep
hydrated, visit your
dentist every three
months – have a friend
tell you if your breath
smells.
• Always:
• Check yourself in the
mirror in the morning and
at every opportunity
during the day to ensure
you are good enough to
eat.
• Have clean, shiny, wellcut and a well managed
hair style. If you of the
age that I am, keep your
roots covered, never go
longer than 4 weeks.
To find out how we can help you to master these skills you only have to take one simple
action. Just call, email or write - our response will be immediate, and without equivocation.
Contact us now: 0044 (0)20 8534 6473
Presence and Power Limited: 35 Alan Hocken Way, London E15 3AT
Tel:0044 (0)20 8534 6473 www.fearlessengagement.com
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