Cracking Zagreb - Zagreb For You

Transcription

Cracking Zagreb - Zagreb For You
LIMITED
EDITION
FREE COPY
INSTAGRAM*
Three music-filled
days by the lake
No. 03
JUNE
2015.
Z
Ten years running and by now it's an institution. INmusic
Festival is even more than that, always in the top rungs of
Europe's music festivals. Everyone who's anyone in the music world has headlined here, from Iggy Pop, Nick Cave and
Morrissey to Moby, Prodigy and The Black Keys. During the
first few days of summer, 50 thousand fans of good sound
take over the Island of Youth on Jarun Lake. This year, the
fest runs from June 22 through 24 and showcases an illustrious lineup that includes Placebo, Rudimental, Franz Ferdinand, La Roux ... Plus there's an archipelago of islands with
stages, there are beaches, there are camps, and of course
heaps of fun. More at inmusicfestival.com. See you at Jarun!
on Facebook
Swing by
Sljeme
Nature lovers
who are into
hiking, jogging
and mountain
biking, Zagreb
will keep you
happy. Medvednica nature
park is right at
your doorstep,
a gorgeous
city backdrop.
The top of
Medvednica,
known as Sljeme (1033m),
is a good goal
to reach if you
want to keep
fit while in
town. Use the
TV tower as
your signpost.
Built in 1973,
the 169-meter
tower is located at the very
top and visible
from whatever side you
approach the
mountain. The
6.9km climb
up lasts around
three hours, or
less if you’re
in good shape.
Medvednica
has several
mountain huts
where you can
taste traditional Zagreb
dishes.
Talkabout
Croatia
ZAGREB IS TRENDING according to
ANJA MUTIĆ
Writes for New York Magazine, BBC Travel
and The Washington Post. Follow her at
@everthenomad
Cracking
Zagreb
169
meters
F
Zagreb cathedral
108 m
Altitude above sea level 1031 m
WORD
Kaj
(Ka-y)
What, Was,
Quoi, Qué,
Cosa, Oque
12.30pm, a gloomy late-spring day
in Zagreb. Two Japanese tourists
stand on a street corner just east
of Jelačić Square, looking dazed
and hopelessly lost as they stare
at a map page of Lonely Planet
Croatia.
“Can I help you?” I approach.
“Yes, please!” They look relieved,
happy that help materialized.
I point them in the direction of
Karijola, the pizza joint they were
after.
riends later asked me: “Did
you tell them you wrote the
book they had in their hands?”
“No, I didn’t. I wanted to be a
guidebook fairy. I appeared out of
nowhere and with my magic wand
showed them the way,” I joked.
I’ve worked on four editions
of Lonely Planet Croatia, the
last of which just came out two
months ago. That would make me
an expert, an insider. I share my
Zagreb secrets with a global readership of guidebook readers, in
hope they will love my hometown
as I do.
ut then, there are secrets, and
there are ---- sshhhh: Secrets.
I may be a guidebook fairy on a
gloomy late-spring day but I don’t
share “my” Zagreb with anyone.
Zagreb is a small capital but not
an easy city to crack. And cracking
it is just part of the game, and a
reason why I like to keep those
secrets. If you discover them all by
yourself, without a guidebook (fairy), the city will feel so much more
special. And you’ll be hooked.
In competition with
Bordeaux, Lisbon, Athens,
Valletta, Riga, Ljubljana,
Innsbruck, Milan, Brussels
*2014 Zagreb was the sixth
best destination in Europe
No Uber but
taxis are
everywhere
Zagreb has no Uber yet
but taxis are plentiful
and affordable. Wave
or whistle it down, call,
email... anything goes.
The oldest, biggest and
most reliable is Radio
Taxi Zagreb. The least
expensive and easiest
to spot is Cammeo, with
black & yellow cars. Eko
Taxi has only hybrid
cars, and baby car seats
on request. #taxi
#trending
TEARING DOWN
OF THE GRAFFITI
WALL on Branimirova
street is the symbolic
end of an era. Some
people think it’s a
culturecide against an
iconic monument of
Zagreb’s urban culture; others are happy
that the horrible wall
finally disappeared
from the city center.
Perhaps the graffiti
artist Lunar was right
when he said that the
best days of the wall
were already over.
#graffiti
B
Tip
Discover the “other Zagreb” by
booking a tour with Secret Zagreb
Walks (www.tours.secret-zagreb.
com) or Funky Zagreb
(www.funky-zagreb.com).
Don't waste paper. Use it or . . . .
zagreb-touristinfo.hr
American Express
Travel, which placed
Zagreb ninth on their
latest list of trendy
cities, behind Dubai
and Richmond. On
the global list, Zagreb
and Poland’s Krakow
are the only cities in
Europe, if we don’t
count Iceland’s Reykjavik at the very top
of the list.
ZAGREB HAS 4200
PLACES WHERE
YOU CAN DRINK
COFFEE and recent
studies have shown
that each one of us
goes to one of these
places for coffee at
least once a week.
As a matter of fact,
we drink five kilos of
coffee per capita.
#coffeebreak
Keep in
touch!
Download your
free copy and share:
zagreb4you.com
Project
30°
Zagreb was more commonly known outside Croatia by its Austrian German exonym Agram
INmusic festival/Julien Duval
*
what*where*when*
STREET FESTIVAL
Watch out, Zagreb will go crazy
again – in the best of ways –
from June 3 through June 10 this
year. That’s when Cest is d’Best,
Croatia’s most famous street
festival comes to town. Expect
heaps of street happenings all
over the center, by musicians,
singers, dancers, performers and
visual artists. Don’t miss the race
of garbagemen, the baby marathon, the big chess tournament &
more. See @cestisdbest.com.
All the world’s a
Stross this summer
ANCIENT FAIR IN
ANDAUTONIA
The leafy setting of Stross,
paired with its cool vibe, makes this
alfresco hangout really unique
Fancy a walk around an ancient
Roman fair? Head to the Andautonia Archaeological Park in the
village of Ščitarjevo, 12km from
Zagreb, where you’ll find remains of an ancient city dating back
to the Roman Empire. Open on
weekends from noon to 6pm
through October, it showcases
programs featuring fashion, pets
and board games.
DANCE WEEK
FESTIVAL
Zagreb boogies on at the region’s
largest contemporary dance event,
on from May 29 through June 20.
Now in its 32nd year, Dance Week
Festival takes place at the Zagreb
Dance Center (Ilica 10) and a
couple of other locations around
town. Tickets are on sale at the
Zagreb Dance Center daily from
1pm till 8pm, or book online at
@danceweekfestival.com.
Come summer, the romantic Strossmayer promenade,
lovingly known to locals as
Stross, becomes one big openair stage. This year’s season of
Summer on Stross kicked off
on May 29 and lasts through
September 2. There will be
music every day, ranging from
jazz and swing to blues to rock.
There will also be art, featuring free workshops and body
painting. There will be offbeat
events such a mongrel beauty
pageant; the most beautiful
doggie will win the Strosser
title and a delicious meter-long
sausage. There will be other
shows, such as puppet theater,
numerous prize contests and
lots more.
It all happens in the historic
Upper Town, below Lotrščak
Tower, on a promenade covered with leafy trunks of ancient
chestnut trees – a great spot to
beat the summer heat. To get
here, walk up one of the downtown streets or take the funicular. Once you’re up on Stross,
grab a drink at one of the many
makeshift bars and mingle with
Zagreb’s creatives. If you find
yourself in Zagreb on June 30,
join in the big party celebrating
the new year – well, half of it.
ljetonastrosu.com
NEW Live it up at the locals'
living room on the main square
A
bistro, a
restaurant, a
bar or a club? All
together rolled
into one, they’ll
say if you ask the
team who restored the iconic
Gradska Kavana
(City Cafe) on the
northeastern side
of the Jelačić Square. It’s been in
the same spot for
as long as anyone
can remember
but in mid-May it
reopened under
a new name, Johann Franck. The
revived landmark
quickly became
the locals’ living
room. The ground
floor now features
a cafe with a stage
for concerts,
social events and
literary evenings,
The cheapest coffee on the Square -- just 9KN! -- in
while the first
a spot that's cool both day and night
“I wanted a
place where
Zagreb locals
can come to
relax and just
have a good
time,“ Tomo Ricov, program
manager at Johann Franck
floor houses a bar with a
large smoking room and deep
leather armchairs. At the top,
Šnicl bistro showcases the best
vista of Zagreb’s main square
and top-notch food by our very
own columnist and Croatia’s
leading chef Mate Janković.
Mate cooks up miracles in
the open-plan kitchen; book
ahead.
ohann’s Franck’s mastermind of fun who heads up
the programming is Tomo
Ricov, known as co-owner of
Pepermint club and organizer
of top events in town. One of
the upcoming happenings to
look out for is Fashion Week
Zagreb on June 8 and 9.
J
Watch cartoons & picnic in a park
D
id you know that Croatia is famous
for cartoons? Founded in 1972,
Animafest Zagreb is the second oldest
film festival in the world entirely
dedicated to animation. Winners of
the Animafest Grand Prix get a direct
qualification for the Oscars and for
Cartoon d’Or, the major European
animation award.
This year’s program (@animafest.hr)
brings more than 300 films to the big screen. It also has
a special section dedicated to animation in video games.
Don’t be confused if you run into Mad Hatter somewhere in the city! The festival’s
theme this year is “Alice in Wonderland.” The fest will
also feature a retrospective of the iconic French author
Michel Ocelot.
Animafest will head out of the cinema to the Zrinjevac
city park on June 12 so prepare your blankets and picnic
baskets and book your seats for Animafest Open-Air.
Professor Baltazar The adventures of this
unusual scientist created by Zlatko Grgić
count among the most successful projects
of the Zagreb School of Animated Films.
Animafest
Surrogate Dušan Vukotić’s 1961
movie is the first non-American
animated film that received an
Academy Award, although it was
made on the modest premises of
Zagreb Film in Vlaška street.
Mandlek The festival’s mascot
is always changing. This year it
was interpreted by the young
author Petra Zlonoga.
June 9 - 14 Cinema Europa, Cinema Tuškanac, Cineplexx Centar Kaptol
I CANNOT SURVIVE CROATIA
WITHOUT… walking. I
love walking around
Zagreb. Compared to
my hometown where
most everything is a
parking lot, there is a
lot to see. History isn’t
CODY MCCLAIN something in a book
here, it’s in the streets. BROWN
AN AMERICAN HERE IS…
HISTORY ISN’T given a sort of special
SOMETHING IN treatment. I feel
people listen to
A BOOK HERE, like
me, just because I’m
IT'S IN THE
American. A Croatian
can say something
STREETS
wise or true, and no
one will listen. But
when I talk… it’s like
shhhhhh everybody,
an American is speaking about Croatia. Listen. CROATIAN PUNICA TO ME… is the savior of the
nation. Mother-in-laws and grandmas
keep us fed and well-behaved. They are
the country’s moral compass. PROPUH (DRAFT) IS… so stupid. There is no
scientific basis for how indoor moving
air can inflame my brain.
EVEN THOUGH CROATS DRINK COFFEE FOR TWO HOURS…
they still get stuff done. A lot is actually
done over coffee, and it’s how people
spend their free time. Which is much
better than watching reality TV or
whatever we do in America.
Zagreb’s most
up-and-coming
street, Martićeva
A
ten-minute
amble east of
the Jelačić Square, Martićeva is on
the move. Back in
the 1980s it was a
drab street lined
with storefronts
selling auto parts
but starting a
few years ago, its
western stretch
became the place
to be. The buzz
starts with the pavement tables on
Trg Hrvatskih Velikana, the square
with the fountain.
Moving on, you’ll
come to Mojo on
the left, a smoky
basement bar with
artwork-plastered
brick walls, a wide
range of flavored
rakija and live
music nightly.
Down the street
to your right, look
out for the new
Croatian Design
Superstore, the
one-stop-shop
for the cream of
Croatian design.
Further down to
the left, Divas is a
former boutique
turned boho
coffeehouse with
rustic accents
and mismatched
chairs. Walk down
and to the right
of a leafy park
there’s Booksa,
a book club-café,
cultural hub and
the first spot to
have opened on
Martićeva. There’s more but we’ll
let you explore.
Not a fairytale, it's a
real-deal lakeside castle
N
Want to skip town for a
fling in a lakeside castle
surrounded by thick
woods? Sounds like a
fairytale but it’s a real
from Zagreb
place, just 80km north
of Zagreb. The castle of
Trakošćan lies less than
90 minutes on the A2 highway. It showcases the best of the Middle Ages in
a museum that spans more than 1000
square meters. Take a ride in one of the
row boats or play the
two-centuries-old
piano. Check out
the virtual tour on
@trakoscan.hr.
90 min
Admission
for adults 30KN,
the wee ones,
15KN
For free
Screen on the Green
festival of music films
will be held in several city
parks, including Maksimir,
Jarun and Franjo Tuđman
Square. Spend a summer
evening watching Croatian
and world music flicks under
starry skies, and catch
musical performances before
screenings. @screen.com.hr
Yoga Free OM yoga
classes are held outdoors on
Sundays from 9am to 10am
on Bundek Lake throughout
the summer. No need to book
a spot, just show up with your
mat. #yoga
Ride an old tram Guests of
the TechnIcal Museum can
hop on an original 1924 tram
and catch a whiff of olden
times. The tram departs every
Sunday at 9.30am from the
tram stop on Dražen Petrović
Square.
Promenade concerts
The spirit of the past
comes alive on the streets of
Zagreb every weekend until
September. Enjoy waltzes,
polkas and chansons at
Zrinjevac on Saturdays
between 11am and 1pm, and
on Sundays between
10.30am and 12.30pm at the
viewpoint in Maksimir Park.
#timemachine
MUSEUM OF
CONTEMPORARY ART
Admission to the Museum is
free every first Wednesday
of the month. Exhibit
openings are free, too.
Basketball god
Across
from the
Technical
Museum,
next to the
railroad that
splits the city
in half, on
the square
with the glass
tower, you’ll
spot a statue
of a man with
a basketball.
They called
him vunderkind and
Mozart (that’s
why the
corner cafe
is called Amadeus). Dražen
Petrović, the biggest star of
European basketball, was
born a winner but his tragic
death in 1993 stopped his
conquest of America. In just
three seasons, from 1984 to
1987, he scored Cibona the
title of European champion
twice. He went to the NBA
via Real Madrid. Dražen’s
last achievement was the
silver he scored playing
against the Dream Team
with Jordan, Bird and Magic
at the Olympics in 1992. He
is in every single Basketball
Hall of Fame.
The Dražen Petrović Museum is in the Cibona Tower.
For more, including opening
hours, see
@drazenpetrovic.net
QuiZG
1. How many times did Croa-
tia’s ski champions Janica and
Ivica Kostelić win Snow Queen,
the World Cup alpine ski race
on Sljeme mountaintop?
a) 3
b) 0
c) 1
2. The longest street in
Zagreb is?
a) Radnička
b) Branimirova
c) Ilica
3. In which year did Slavoljub
Penkala, the famous inventor of
pencils from Zagreb, construct
the first Croatian aircraft?
a) 1904
b) 1910
c) 1913
ANSWERS
1. b None. Ivica came second three
times, Janica came third once; 2. a
Radnička road with 6502 meters. Ilica was the longest for a century with
5660 meters; 3. a 1910. It still flies.
MONOVIEW
SOCIALIZING! IT’S REALLY
A WAY OF LIFE HERE
ALEX CREVAR
Travel writer from the United States. His work
has appeared in The New York Times,
National Geographic Traveler and
Outside magazine @AlexCrevar
Finding my
rhythm
B
efore a city can become
yours, you have to find a
rhythm.
Over the years, I’ve fallen into
several routines in Zagreb.
I’ve been a member of the
same gym for years. And,
of course, I’ve frequented certain drinking holes
with enough regularity that
bartenders know my poison
without having to order.
owever, the Croatian capital didn’t become my city
until I started hiking the trails
on Medvednica Mountain just
north of town. To this day,
when I am anywhere else in
the world, I can close my eyes
and think of Zagreb and the
hike to the Puntijarka mountain hut is what I imagine.
But the real beauty is just how
easy it is to hike in Zagreb.
perfect day starts early. In
my downtown apartment,
I stuff my backpack with an
extra shirt, a rain jacket, and
water. I put on my hiking
boots. Then I take two trams
(for a total of 20 minutes) to
the head of the Puntijarka
trail. Now I am alone. Nothing
in front of me but woods
and mountain. I adjust my
trekking sticks and walk up—
sometimes straight up—for
an hour. Sweat rolls down my
face and soaks my shirt. Birds
chirp from beech trees.
At the top, the mountain hut is
like a secret clubhouse … if your
clubhouse served coffee and
strudel. Here, high above my
city, I sit and meditate, barechested in the morning sun.
H
A
Tip:
From the Draškovićeva tram stop,
take the 14 or the 8 to the end of
the 15, which is a five-minute
walk to the head of the trail.
Coolture
OK, YOU’VE HAD FUN
CLUBBING, you've checked out
the bookstores, theaters and
cinemas but you still want more
culture?
INMUSIC FESTIVAL The tenth
edition will be held from June 22
to June 24 at Jarun. This year's
lineup includes Placebo, FFS
(Franz Ferdinand & Sparks), Paolo Nutini, La Roux, Black Rebel
Motorcycle Club, Of Monsters
and Men, Metal, Death Cab For
Cutie... @inmusicfestival.com
FANTASTIC ZAGREB The Festival of Fantastic Film will be held
from June 26 to July 4 in several
locations in and around town,
including the spectacular Medvedgrad fortress from the 13th
century. The right place for fans
of science fiction, horror, thriller
and experimental film.
@fantastic-zagreb.com
AUGUSTE RODIN EXHIBITION
"Rodin in Meštrović's Zagreb"
is the exhibition currently on at
the Art Pavilion on Zrinjevac.
It showcases around 70 works
by the famous French sculptor,
including his masterpiece Meditation or The Inner Voice! #art
SLASH LIVE Saul Hudson, aka
Slash, one of the top ten players
of electric guitar according to
Time magazine and the engine
of the
legendary
Guns N'
Roses is
coming to
Šalata with
The Conspirators on June
26. Ticket
price: 190KN.
#concert
OLDTIMER RALLY ZAGREB The
30th Oldtimer Rally will be held
on June 6 and June 7. On the
first day, vehicles will be on
display until noon in front of the
Technical Museum and on the
second day, in front of the Croatian National Theater. Then they
hit the streets. #oldtimer
Ban Jelačić Square
LAKESIDE FUN TIMES AT JARUN
Zagreb is at its most beautiful in the summer, especially at Jarun,
the ‘sea of Zagreb.’ Lined with beaches, the two connected swimming lakes,
the Big Lake and the Little Lake, have six small islands – Island of the
University Games, Trešnjevka Island, Island of Croatian Youth, Wildlife
Island, Rowers’ Island and the Island of Love. There’s also a rowing track,
and a 6km paved road that circles the lake. Jarun is Zagrebians’ favorite
spot for all forms of recreation, from swimming and jogging to roller skating
and cycling. The lake is also lined with bars, restaurants and clubs. So if
you haven’t left for the Adriatic yet, stick around for some lakeside fun.
INmusic Festival is the largest
open-air music festival in
Croatia. On from June 22 to
June 24, this year it celebrates
its 10th anniversary
InMusic
Festival
Nudist beach
Don’t miss the alternative transport system
inside the museum, the 32-meter-long
Double Slide, an installation by Belgian
artist Carsten Höller
Hippodrome
River Sa
va
Bundek
Bundek Lake
Is a popular
children’s
playground with
swimming beaches
and a summer stage
Museum of Contemporary Art (MSU) showcases a
collection of art works by leading contemporary artists
from Croatia and the world. Right now, you can catch an
exhibit on the design and architecture of Bauhaus
Sanjin Kaštelan
The city’s funkiest food fair
that was born in an attic
TIPS&
TRICKS
ZAGREB
TAXI
HELP
+385 1 1777 112
EXCHANGE RATES,
(BUY RATE, JUNE 1, 2015)
€ 1 7,60; $ 1 6,92; JPY 100 5,59
CAN I DRINK WATER
FROM THE PUMPS?
The old iron pumps, popularly
called 'Iron Franceki' remain an
image of childhood for many elderly citizens of Zagreb. Today
the Pimp My Pump art group
paint them over with symbols
of popular culture. And, yes, the
water is good for drinking.
THE NEATEST PUBLIC
TOILET IN ZAGREB
I
MATE JANKOVIĆ
Chef, columnist, TV star and Anthony
Bourdain's host whenever he's here. You
can find Mate at Gradska Kavana
Sound
of summer
W
hy would someone
choose to spend time in
Zagreb when visiting Croatia?
I often asked myself that question. When thinking about a
vacation, you usually picture
a nice beach, a cool drink in
hand as you sit in the shade
counting waves and watching
the horizon. You pray for a
little summer breeze to cool
you down while you sip your
ice-cold beer and think about
jumping into the sea. Sounds
like my ideal summer afternoon, which is why I never
understood why someone would spend a single day of their
vacation in a hot city while
those relaxing afternoons are
happening somewhere else.
Well, that was until I spent my
first summer in Zagreb. will never forget that
summer in the city. It was
not too hot, just about right
to sit on one of many terraces
enjoying espresso and reading
newspapers. Or just plain
people-watching through the
dark lens of your sunglasses.
Going out for a drink in
the evening and seeing the
city full of positive energy
blew me away. It had such a
laid-back atmosphere, with
people enjoying their drinks
while their conversations and
laughter created a buzz that I
instantly fell in love with. The
city was burning, in a great
way. That’s when I fell in love
with summer in Zagreb.
k, I still love my beach,
cold beer, summer breeze
afternoons but do I love that
buzz the city has. Sit on the
terrace of one of the bars in
center, have a glass of white
wine and listen to the sound
of summer in Zagreb. You will
love it. I know I do.
I
O
t all started
in an attic. A
really funky attic,
with finger-lickin’
foods. A love
project of two Jelenas – Jelena Iva
Nikolić and Jelena
Mikin – Mali Plac
na Tavanu (Little
Market in the Attic) was born back
in 2012, when
they decided to
create a sustainable platform for
presenting local
organic food. So
each Saturday the
Jelenas invited
small producers
from Zagreb’s surroundings and beyond to come and
sell their edible
wares in the attic
of Sinkovićeva 8,
a ten-minute walk
up from the cathedral. Soon enough,
the market became a movement.
From a pet project
instigated by the
pair of Jelenas it
The public loo on the British
Square is free to use, and it's
very neat. You will find it just
behind the newspaper stand.
turned into a place
where kindred
spirits meet, taste
yummy treats at
the source, learn
about wholesome
food and take
goodies home.
“Our wish is to
personally connect producers
and people who
want to know
about where their
food comes from,
and to make this
a fun and creative
event,” says Jelena
Mikin. The market
became so popular
that it now travels
around town,
changing locales,
which always remain offbeat: from
an abandoned military hospital and
a courtyard café to
a warehouse club
and a contemporary art gallery.
Find out where to
catch them next at
www.mali-plac.
org/eventi/.
+
Don’t miss: • Hemp honey by Mother
Earth Sacred Plants • Lemon curd (with
lemons from Vis island) by Okusi Hrvatsku/Taste Croatia • Roasted soy (non-GMO, grown in
Slavonia) by OPG Didaković • Home-brewed
Kajfakat ale by Ajncug & Zblajh • Handmade
pasta with cocoa and carob by Moja Pasta
• Water kefir, a probiotic by Tibicos
4 am
THERE ARE NO TABOOS
AT THE NEW TABOO
Located at the entrance to the
Importanne parking garage,
this hot new club spreads over three
floors. In tandem with Gjuro 2 (another Zagreb club), Taboo hosts parties
on Fridays (18+) and Saturdays (21+)
that go till 6am. The most stubborn of
clubbers and those who like to boogie
after buying groceries for Sunday
lunch can party on at the afterhours
that goes till noon. #clubbing
SMALL TAILOR REPAIRS
If you need small tailor
repairs, pick one of two
tailors (Mega-Cif or Cik
Cak) in Prilaz Sestara Baković,
the small passageway that
connects Masarykova and
Varšavska streets.
LOOKING FOR VINYL?
Vinyl records are rare these days
but Zagreb has a few spots
that sell them. Old records and second-hand
CDs and DVDs are
available at Dobri Zvuk
(Preradovićeva 24), Vinyl bar
(Bogovićeva 3) and on Sunday
morning at the antique fair on
the British Square. A little further from the center you’ll find
Freebird (Tratinska 50), Roxy
(Savska 34), Magic Records
(Horvaćanska 166) and Karma
Music Shop (Podgorska 3).
CHOW DOWN AT 5 AM
The best way to wrap up your
night out is with greasy ćevapćići, served with onion. For the
best, head to Dolac.
WINE TIP
If you like white wine,
try graševina, the most common
Croatian white grape variety or
Istrian malvazija. If red is your
thing, go for plavac mali, especially great from the Dingač and
Postup wine regions.
RENT YOUR OWN
TWO WHEELS
Bikes can be rented at
13 locations around the
city, half of which are
in the center. Just look out for
a Nextbike station or check
out nextbike.hr. The first half
an hour is free; one hour costs
8KN; five hours (and up to 24
hours) goes for 79KN.
WEEKEND LULL
Most offices and shops close on
Saturday afternoon. Shopping
malls on the outskirts of town
remain open. For info, tourists
can always come to the Tourist
Information Centers.
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