IN VIVO - Sederma

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IN VIVO - Sederma

Skin Diversity
Explained
By:
Prof. Karl Lintner
KAL’IDEES Beauty Labs
Innovation you can build onTM
What does the Science say?
Racial differences in skin function do occur and may be
responsible for differences in skin reactivity.

The main racial anatomic and physiological differences
concern irritation, sensitisation, and drug absorption.

Decreased transcutaneous penetration has been reported in
black persons.

In contrast, conflicting findings have been reported
concerning some aspects of irritation and sensitisation.

Regional variation in skin function is more evident in fair skin
because of the modifying effects of long-term UV exposure.
Enzo Berardescaa, MD & Howard Maibach. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology
Volume 34, Issue 4, April 1996, Pages 667–672
Skin Diversity Explained

Multilevel complexity…
 The influence of skin pigmentation has been investigated on
the upper-outer arm of black, white and oriental volunteers.
 No difference found between race in corneocyte surface
area, (900 microns2 ).
 By contrast, spontaneous desquamation is increased in
black vs white and oriental skin (factor 2.5, p <0.001).
 The importance of the intercellular cement for the cohesion
between corneocytes should be investigated, i.e. racial
differences in epidermal lipid composition
Corcuff P, Lotte C, Rougier A, Maibach HI. Acta Dermato-venereologica [1991, 71(2):146-148]
 Spontaneous desquamation and corneocyte size reflect
respectively S.C. cohesiveness and epidermal cell
proliferation.
Ethnic skin types:
where are the frontiers between them?
Best review on the subject:
A. V. Rawlings
Ethnic skin types: are there differences
in skin structure and function?
International Journal of Cosmetic Science,
2006, 28, 79–93
Conclusions from this review:
 Darker pigmented subjects show dermatological
signs of aging later than lightly pigmented subjects
 Differences in SC biology are apparent in
different skin types.
 Asians in general have the lowest TEWL, highest
water content and highest SC lipid levels. The
ﬁndings are opposite for Black skin.
 Skin pigmentation dictates many of the
changes in skin associated with aging.
Other findings
 This probably accounts for the higher microbial ﬂora
present
 Larger studies need to be conducted and
skin color type (ITA value) more carefully
documented rather than using an
ethnicity or racial label.
 Geographic, climatic, hormonal, psychological
(stress) influences must be taken into account
 Black skin has a greater gland pore size,
increased apocrine and apoeccrine
glands and greater sebum secretion
Outlook:
 Tremendous progress in understanding
the signaling processes involved in
hyperpigmentary responses of different
racial groups (PAR-2 system)
But:
 Very little is understood of the biology
of other skin structures in ethnic
groups.
 Increased biological understanding of
the mechanisms of skin coloration
"Ethnic" Skin care:a real market?
The Fitzpatrick skin type
scale is one of the most
common methods of
classifying skin types, and
ranges from Type I to
Type VI.

The scale was created by
Dr Thomas B. Fitzpatrick
in 1975, and has been
widely used as a standard
for dermatologists and
skin care experts ever
since.

Asian Skin:
 Have higher no. of Ceramides – although this declines with
age – and not sufficient to offset the fewer corneocytes
 More sensitive to environmental aggressions,
irritants and, pollution and oxidants

Less resistant to mechanical stress
 Prematurely marked by irregular pigmentation and
spot
 Dermis of Asian skin has more collagen I than other
groups
 Thinner stratum corneum –fewer corneocytes and
less cohesive
COMPOSITION
Reconnected with ancestral traditions, MĚIRITAGE™ is an anti-ageing active which fortifies the
skin to recover a younger look.
The 3 following root extracts have been selected according to the principles of Traditional Chinese
Medicine:
Root extract of Astragalus membranaceus
Its antioxidant properties allow to protect cells against damage
caused by free radicals.
Root extract of Bupleurum falcatum
Has anti-inflammatory and detoxification properties
Root extract of Atractylodes macrocephala
used for >2000 years for the removal of dark spots (face and hands)
EVALUATION BY EXPERT JUDGES
2 months of application; 4 expert judges filled out questionnaires on 5 criteria. Rating scale with
scores ranging from 0 to 7.
Improvement on all criteria both versus T0 and placebo is observed.
Visible results :
Brightening of the complexion
Reduction of wrinkles.
UNIFORMITY OF THE COMPLEXION
Photographs taken under cross-polarised light
MĚIRITAGE ™ 3%
T0
T2 months
UNIFORMITY OF THE COMPLEXION
Colorskin (Newtone) - Image analysis software that measures the variations in skin complexion.
After 2 months, MĚIRITAGE™ enhances
by +7.4% the uniformity of the skin.
The blemishes of the skin are reduced
and less visible.
BRIGHTENING OF HYPERPIGMENTED AREAS
MĚIRITAGE™ 3%
T0
Photographs taken under cross-polarised light
T2 months
Luminosity
FrameScan® V03 (Orion Concept) - Image analysis software for measurement of L* parameter
MEIRITAGE™ leads to a visible
improvement in luminosity after
only ONE month’s application.
Pigmentation intensity
Measurement of the Melanin Index using a Mexameter® MX18 (Courage & Khazaka).
The melanin content is reduced
by 19%, and up to 60%, after
only 2 month’s application with
MĚIRITAGE™.
The pigmentation becomes more
even and the existing spots are
significantly attenuated.
HYDRATION
Photographs taken under diffuse light
The skin looks smoothened with a visible reduction of wrinkles .
HYDRATION IMPROVEMENT FOR A YOUNGER LOOK
Measurement of water loss of the cutaneous barrier by successive stripping using a VapoMeter™ (Delfin).
While the dehydration increased
with the placebo, MĚIRITAGE™
significantly reduces water loss
by 15% after only ONE month’s
application.
"Black" skin
 Better protected against mechanical stress
 Desquamation rate ( 2,5x higher that Asians)
 Same amount of melanocytes as light skin,
but much greater tyrosinase basal activity.
 Much more reactive to UV exposure
 Appears to be less well moisturized than other
skin types
 Larger pore size, more oily skin
COMPOSITION OF EVERMAT™
Inhibition of 5α reductase
Regulation of sebocyte
and keratinocyte
differentiation and
proliferation
An association of:
 Enantia chlorantha extract rich in
protoberberines
 Oleanolic acid from Olive tree leaves
IN VIVO
PORE SIZE
19 panellists (men and women)
28 days
Twice daily application
Gel cream containing 3% Evermat™
Evaluation of the pore size by image analysis
Significant decrease of the
pore surface up to -36% (1st quartile)
IN VITRO
Inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanin production on B16 cells
DAB is 30 times more active
than Kojic acid
The efficacy of DAB on
melanogenesis is visible to
the naked eye
LUMISKIN (%)
(eq DAB ppm)
1.25%
2.5%
3.7%
12.5 ppm
25 ppm
37 ppm
1000ppm
0
% inhibition / control
The inhibiting activity of
DAB on tyrosinase is dose
dependent and reaches 53%
with only 37 ppm
Kojic acid
0.1%
-10
-20
-30
-40
-50
-60
-70
-80
Tyrosinase
Melanin
IN VITRO
Inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanin production on B16 cells
Control
566ppm Kojic Acid
25ppm DAB
SkinEthic 3D model of epidermis type VI
EX VIVO
40 ppm
4%
DAB
Lumiskin
Epidermis after
7 days of contact
Control
12,5 ppm
1.25%
CH3
O
CH3O
CH3O
O
CH3
N
O
CH3
1000 ppm Diacetyl-boldine
(DAB) in C8C10 triglycerides
O
An instant and gradual skin brightener
 Modified titanium dioxide with no white residue
 Long term skin brightening effect
 Encapsulated diacetylboldine
 Instant luminous, mat effect on the skin
AFTER 1 Month
BEFORE
Talking about desquamation…
DSQUAME®
IN VIVO
•
•
•
•
•
15 volunteers (19 to 35 years old)
Phototype IV (melanin index 631)
Twice daily application of emulsion containing MOIST 24™ at 3%
Leg treated compared to untreated site
Corneometer every hour for 7 hours, and then after 24 hours
Immediate moisture (T 1 hour):
+58%
IN VIVO
Corneocytes after 24 hours
"Caucasian" Skin:
- dryer skin in areas exposed to sun, extreme weather,
and pollutions - Sensitive to mechanical aggressions,
pollution, UV etc. .
_ prone to wrinkles, discoloration, redness etc.., "Caucasian" Skin:
 Dryer skin in areas exposed to sun,
extreme weather
 Sensitive to mechanical aggressions,
pollution, UV etc.
 Prone to wrinkles, discoloration,
redness etc…
 Ages more quickly, tissue degradation
IN VIVO
ANTI-WRINKLE EFFICACY on the forehead
The lifting effect makes the forehead wrinkles even out.
IN VIVO
ANTI-WRINKLE EFFICACY on the forehead
IN VIVO
ANTI-WRINKLE EFFICACY on the crow’s feet
Wrinkles are visibly smoothed on the crow’s feet.
IN VIVO
Wrinkles are visibly smoothed and
appear filled from the inside.
The wrinkle spread
parameter
IN VIVO
IN VIVO
In vivo clinical assessment:
Protocol:

Biochemical moisture markers
(forearm)
 Caspase-14
 Endogenous glycerol
38 volunteers (male and female), mean age:
47 years, with dry skin, applied twice daily a
cream containing 3% REVIDRATE™ for 2
months on the face and forearm against
placebo.

Epidermis moisture (face)
 Corneometry
 Moisturemetry

Cutaneous barrier (forearm)
 TEWL
 Wettability
Epidermis moisture was also assessed:

After 21 days with 17 volunteers.

1 week after the last application with 27
volunteers.
IN VIVO
IN VIVO
IN VIVO
Epidermis moisture with Corneometer® and MoistureMeterD™
IN VIVO
Epidermis moisture with Corneometer™ and MoistureMeterD™
IN VIVO
Epidermis moisture with Corneometer™ and MoistureMeterD™
IN VIVO
Cutaneous barrier:
TEWL measured with a Vapometer® after stripping
Wettability measured with a videomicroscope and image analysis
T0
T1 month
T2 months
IN VIVO
MELANIN
Melanin spots
T0
VISIA® system
T1 month
Face
n=24
IN VIVO
MELANIN
Melanin spots
Melanin spots
VISIA® system
Face
n=24
CHROMOCARE™ 3%
T1 month
T2 months
% variation vs. T0
-4.3%
-7.6%
Significance
p<0.05
p<0.01
Age saving vs. T0
-2.7 years
-4.8 years
Improved volunteers
71%
79%
*Placebo: ns
T0
T1 month
IN VIVO
HAEMOGLOBIN
Redness and microvessels
T0
VISIA® system
Face
n=24
T1 month
IN VIVO
HAEMOGLOBIN
Redness and microvessels
Redness and
microvessels
VISIA® system
Face
n=24
CHROMOCARE™ 3%
T1 month
T2 months
% variation vs. T0
-8.2%
-10.8%
Significance
p<0.05
p<0.05
Improved volunteers
75%
71%
*Placebo: ns
T0
T1 month
Conclusion
 Ethnic skin is difficult to define, to
characterise…
 A continuum of parameter variation from
Norway to Congo via Asia or Brazil
 But: some more specific product
formulations and claims are possible
 Consumers have to learn what their skin
type conforms to, independent of their birth
place or skin color or cultural preference
 Skin adapts to external circumstances
Skin Diversity
Explained
SEDERMA
29 rue du Chemin Vert
F-78612 Le Perray en Yvelines cedex
+33 1 34 84 10 10
+33 1 34 84 11 30
sederma@sederma.fr
www.sederma.fr
SEDERMA, Inc.
300-A Columbus Circle
Edison, New Jersey 08837-USA
Tel : + 1 732- 692-1652
Fax. : + 1 732- 417-0804
sederma-usa@croda.com
www.@sederma.fr
Non-warranty: The information in this publication is given in good faith by Sederma by way of general guidance and for reference
purposes only. The information should not be construed as granting a license to practice any methods or compositions of matter
covered by patents. Sederma assumes no liability in relation to the information and gives no warranty regarding the suitability of the
product and/or ingredients described for a particular use. The use made of the product and/or ingredients described by the recipient
and any claims or representations made by the recipient in respect of such product and/or ingredients are the responsibility of the
recipient. The recipient is solely responsible for ensuring that products marketed to consumers comply with all relevant laws and
regulations.
Targeting the Needs of
Diverse Skin
Asian Skin
Black Skin




Evermat™
Lumiskin™
Lumisphere™
Moist 24™
Caucasian Skin
 Matrixyl® Synthe’6™
 Revidrate™
 Chromocare™
 Meiritage™
Additional Information
To order free samples, click here.
Thank you!
To contact us, email eseminar@sederma.fr

IN VIVO - Sederma

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