The Wutach Gorge - Baden

Staatliche Naturschutzverwaltung
Baden-Württemberg
vor 25 000 Jahren
The terrain before the Wutach River‘s sharp diversion at the end of the last
ice age (25,000 years ago) with Feldberg-Danube (Feldbergdonau) and
Original Wutach (Ur-Wutach)
The wild Wutach River continues to shape the face of the gorge (MS)
Feldberg-Danube,
vor 15 000 Jahrenthe headstream of the Danube catchment,
which gently descended through the Blumberg Gap (Blumberger Pforte) Eichberg
between Eichberg
Buchberg and Buchberg into today’s Ai-
trach Valley. By about 18 to 20,000 years ago, sediment deposits
had built up the Feldberg-Danube channel and, after one or
several extreme instances of high water, the river cleared the fi-
vor 25 000 Jahren
The Wutach Gorge –
Nature Reserve and
Natura 2000 Protected Area
Stages of diversionnau
Feldber
above sea level Feldberg 1493 m
Buchberg
1500
u
Feldber
ch
vor 10 000 Jahren
1000
rm
er F
e
Titisee
847 m
ldb
erg
Glaci
er
Seebac
h
Neustadt
812 m
Mouth of
Rötenbach
Creek
713 m
Räuberschlössle
Today
10
(hd)
u
Bedrock
gorge
West
Buchberg
na
Eichberg
913 m
Achdorf
538 m
Blumberg
705 m
Neu-Tannegg ruin, popularly known as “Burg Boll” („Boll Castle“) (Gei)
The Wutach River near Gündelwangen (Gei)
to where Gauchach Creek spills into the Wutach River, the
Wutach finally enters Keuper strata (from the Upper Triassic
period) and then, further downstream, Lower and Middle
Jurassic strata.
egg, located below the village of Boll, and the remains of a
stone wall of Stallegg Castle, near Göschweiler. In the Wutach
Gorge alone, there is evidence of seven castles with pre-Christian fortifications. These castles asserted and protected claims
to power.
Living and working in the gorge
Donau
Wutach
10 x vertical exaggeration
Porphyr
Aitr
vor 18 000 Jahren
Eichberg
Wutachmühle
570 m
500
Buchberg
Wutach
Mouth of
Gauchach Creek
574 m
Bad Boll
619 m
Former
Feldberg-Danube
ach
Eichberg
Schattenmühle
657 m
Gutach
(hd)
Wutach
20
crystalline bedrock
Buntsandstein
Muschelkalk
gorge
30
Muschelkalk
Keuper
East
40
Lower Jurassic (Lias)
The Wutach Gorge has always been an impediment for
working people. Until the Middle Ages, the Wutach River
between Kappel and Grimmelshofen could only be crossed
at fords; annual high waters and constant ground shifts made
50
Middle Jurassic (Dogger)
60 km
Water power was often the only available source of energy, and it was used early on in the Wutach Gorge. Even so,
millers had a hard life, due to storms and associated floodings. Once the “mill obligation” or “mill soke,” guaranteeing
income, was rescinded in 1848, the mills located in the gorge
(hd)
REGIERUNGSPRÄSIDIUM FREIBURG
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82x310
11.07.14
08:54
Seite 1
July 2014, 1st English edition 7,000 copies
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DIESES
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ISBN 978-3- KT WURD
E IN DEUTS
7995-0
449-2
CHLAN
2 Euro vom
Erlös
dieses
Buches
an die Stiftun fließen
Naturschutzfog
nds.
More about the Wutach River
in this new book!
Feldbe
o
rgd
Published by:
Regierungspräsidium Freiburg (RP FR)
Referat 56 - Naturschutz und Landschaftspflege
Bissierstraße 7, 79114 Freiburg, www.rp-freiburg.de
Overall concept and text:
RP Freiburg (F. Tribukait) und Wutach-Ranger M. Schwenninger
Photo credits and map:
Berg (Be), Dannenmeyer (Dan), Geisenhof (Gei), hoyerdesign (hd),
Kersting (Ker), Klüber (Klü), Kretzschmar (Kre), Rasbach (Ras),
Schwenninger (MS), Steegmüller (KS), Ullrich (Ull)
Translation:
Michael Mundhenk
Production:
Repro-Service & pk-Verlag Peter Klüber, 79348 Freiamt
www.klueber-repro-verlag.de
Distribution:
This brochure can be obtained through:
Landesanstalt für Umwelt, Messungen und
Naturschutz Baden-Württemberg (LUBW)
Postfach 10 0163, 76231 Karlsruhe
http://www.lubw.baden-wuerttemberg.de/servlet/is/6649
Wutach Gorge
Feldsee
1108 m
Fo
UrWu
ta
Early Ice Age
(KS)
A 30-km hike (about 20 mi) along the Wutach River offers a
richly varied journey through several hundred million years
of geological history. Like a geology textbook example, the
Wutach cuts through almost all the rock strata to be found in
southwestern Germany. From a narrow bedrock gorge of Black
Forest gneiss and granite, the river flows over the distinctively
colored Buntsandstein (sandstone from the Lower Triassic period) into the Muschelkalk (shell limestone from the Middle
Triassic period) gorge with its bright, often steep walls. Close
Geological strata, schematic cross-section
o
gd
Eichberg
a
on
gd
(MS)
chten
na
u
o
rgd
The deepening of the Wutach River
ile Schlu
Buchberg
ta c h
Eichberg
sser – ste
vor 18 000 Jahren
it impossible to build bridges or roads that would last. The
first evidence of a temporary wooden bridge dates only from
the 15th century. Small settlements developed around such
crossings or near the scattered gypsum mills, flour mills, and
sawmills. Hikers can still spot ruins of medieval castles high
up on the edges of the gorge, such as the ruin of Neu-Tann-
W ilde Wa
Feldber
Let’s take ourselves back 25,000 years to the last ice age, when
au
on
the higher-elevation
areas of the
Ur- southern Black Forest were
gd
Wu
ta
covered by a thick ice shield, withchglacier tongues also stretching eastwards. Meltwater was carried down by the so-called
Feldbe
(KS)
The “ wild Wutach Gorge”, located between Neustadt and
Wutachmühle, was, for a long time, feared for its rough terrain. Even today only few roads cross the gorge, but marked
hiking trails maintained by the Schwarzwaldverein (Black Forest Hiking and Mountaineering Association) make it readily
accessible. Observant hikers will be treated to a wild German river environment unique for its geology and landscape
history. The Wutach Gorge offers a congenial habitat for many
rare animals and plants, some of them endangered. Due to its
unspoiled nature, its geological distinctiveness, and its flora
and fauna, the gorge was declared a nature reserve in 1939 in
order to preserve it as a natural environment and recreational
area for future generations. It thus ranks as one of the oldest
nature reserves in Germany’s southwestern state of BadenWürttemberg. Under the Natura 2000 initiative, the area is
now also protected by the European Union.
nal hurdle to the valley of the Ur-Wutach, the original Wutach
River, to the south. For about the last 12,000 years, this sharp
turn southward towards the upper Rhine has been irreversible,
establishing the present-day course of the river with the distinctive knee of the Wutach (Wutachknie) near today’s village
of Achdorf. After its diversion, the Wutach River carved a
new bed for itself down to 180 m (600 ft) below the old valley
bottom of the Feldberg-Danube. To this day, through erosion,
high waters, and flooding, this untamed and unspoiled wild
river continues to shape the face of the landscape.
D i e Wu
Eichberg
Buchberg
The formation
of the Wutach
Gorge
Where the wild river rushes …
D HERGE
STELLT
heute
Eichberg
Buchberg
Blumberg
Around 1900, the Wutach River was famous for being one of
the best trout rivers in Europe, and its fishing industry was
of great importance. The water quality of the Wutach River
deteriorated until the 1970s from, among other things, the industrial plants situated in its drainage basin. Today, the water
quality has again reached a level that allows various species
of fish typically found in wild rivers – such as the rare brown
trout (Salmo trutta) – to live there. Conservationists and fishing
leaseholders share one goal: to preserve a diverse indigenous
fish population in this near-natural river setting.
vor 15
000 Jahren
The
Wutach
Gorge:
A paradise for plants and animals
Eichberg
vor 10
000
Let’s
look
in Jahren
more detail at two examples of these diverse
plant communities. On the shadowy, moist northern slopes of
Eichberg
Buchberg
the Muschelkalk
gorge we find
a species-rich maple-ash forest.
In spring, wild garlic (Allium ursinum) and spring snowflakes
fir-beech forest
Perennial honesty (Lunaria rediviva)
(Gei)
fir-beech forest
heute
Buchberg
Blumberg
An unusual feature of the Wutach Gorge was the renowned
health resort of Bad Boll. During the 19th century, this
luxurious thermal spa was built around the mineral spring that
had been known for its healing powers since the late Middle
Ages. The spa’s glory days extended from 1887 to 1914. The
excellent cuisine at the resort, the spa gardens with their two
ponds on which gondola rides were offered, the variety of
medicinal baths, and, not least, the electric illumination of the
gardens and local waterfalls were big attractions around the
turn of the century. In 1894, Bad Boll was taken over by an
Spring snowflakes (Leucojum
vernum), harbingers of spring in the
gorge (Ras)
Wutach
Eichberg
View of the former spa of Bad Boll, around 1890
(Leucojum vernum) cover the forest floor. In summer, they’re replaced by perennial honesty (Lunaria rediviva), baneberry (herb
Christopher, Actaea spicata), and other plants that love humusrich, moist soil. The older trees with their thick layers of moss
and lichen make the woodlands look like an enchanted forest.
Buchberg
Unique climatic influences,
diverse landforms, and a variety of
Wutach
Achdorf
soils result in a colorful mosaic of gorge microhabitats, ranging
u
na
from extremelygdodry
(for instance, around the limestone rocks)
to extremely wet (e.g. in the floodplain) and offer a home to
varied plant communities. Of the approximately 2,800 ferns
and flowering plants catalogued in southern Germany, around
1,000 species alone can be found in the Wutach Gorge.
Aitr
ach
English fishing club that subsequently promoted opening up
the gorge for hikers. Over time, Bad Boll’s popularity waned
and the buildings were used for other purposes until they
were finally demolished. In 1991, it became the property of
the state of Baden-Württemberg.
Today, forestry is the most important industry in the gorge.
Attempts are under way to nurture the species-rich woodland
communities and preserve the near-natural mixed deciduous
forests typically found in this area. The forest plays an important role in protecting against erosion and rockfall. Also, a few
smallish sawmills make use of the abundance of wood found
along the Wutach River.
Feldber
could not survive. Today, only the Schattenmühle mill is still
generating power from the Wutach River. Stallegg, a hydraulic power station on the Wutach and a new facility close to
Ewattingen show that using the steep drop of a wild river (a
gradient of 1% compared to 0.1% found in more level river
channels) for power generation is still a valid proposition.
Though today we enjoy the beauty of nature in the Wutach
Gorge, up until a hundred years ago people struggled to wrest
their livelihood from it, in the process transforming the gorge
into a cultural landscape.
pines
moist, cool shadowy
slopes
dry, hot rock face
Wutach
maple-linden forest
Achdorf
riparian forest with grey
alders (Alnus incana)
common butterbur
(Petasites hybridus)
high water
warm, sunny
slopes
floodplain
with cutoffs
Brown trout (Salmo trutta) (Be)
maple-ash forest
Vegetational cross-section of the Muschelkalk gorge
gravel island
sloping bank
steep bank
Wutach River
steep, rocky Muschelkalk wall
In the floodplain at the bottom of the gorge, an altogether
different picture emerges. During high waters, the Wutach
River builds up new gravel islands on which pioneer plants
like creeping yellowcress (Rorippa sylvestris) and herb Barbara
(Barbarea officinalis) grow. On firm gravel surfaces, reed canary
grass (Phalaris arundinacea) and large populations of striking
common butterbur (Petasites hybridus) can be found.
The animal world of the Wutach Gorge is similarly diverse.
Zoologists estimate that about 10,000 species of vertebrates,
arthropods, and molluscs live here. Characteristic animals you
might spot, with a bit of luck, include the white-throated
dipper (Cinclus cinclus); the fire salamander (Salamandra salamandra terrestris), typically active after a rainfall; and Liparus germanus,
a small black weevil. Each of these species has its peculiarities.
For example, the white-throated dipper catches its prey
underwater and Liparus germanus cuts countless holes into the
leaves of the common butterbur.
White-throated dipper (Cinclus
cinclus) (Ull)
Turk‘s cap lily (Lilium martagon)
(MS)
Cheddar pink (Dianthus gratianopolitanus) (Gei)
Lady‘s slipper orchid (Cypripedium
calceolus) (Gei)
Inflorescence of the common butterbur (Petasites hybridus) (MS)
Conservation is key
The Wutachschlucht-Gauchachtal Nature Reserve was established in 1939. Shortly afterwards, the area was threatened
by an ambitious project. In 1941, plans were afoot to dam the
river to generate power. However, with the help of an advoExposed rock between Dietfurt and Schurhammerhütte (Sch)
cacy group called “Save the Wutach Gorge,” organized by the
Schwarzwaldverein and its future president Fritz Hockenjos, it
was possible to prevent the dam project from going forward –
a lasting legacy of the Schwarzwaldverein. In 1989, the nature
reserve’s boundaries were revised. The Wutach Gorge now
encompasses 950 hectares (over 3.5 sq mi), with the surrounding conservancy area covering another 415 hectares (1.6 sq mi).
Comprehensive protective provisions are necessary to preserve
the unique Wutach Gorge. The number of visitors is already
high, and it is increasing. The resulting impact on nature can
be kept to a minimum only if preservation rules are strictly
followed. We can only protect what we know – hence this
Fire salamander (Salamandra salamandra terrestris) (MS)
Natterer‘s bat (Myotis nattereri) (Kre)
Wutach floodplain with thick carpet of common butterbur during the summer (Gei)
brochure. Information pavilions at Schattenmühle, the former
Bad Boll resort site, and Wutachmühle offer additional information about the special features of the gorge. Nature hikes
and lectures offered by the local resort towns and associations
round off the wide range of information provided by the
nature conservation authorities.
Important local contacts are the volunteer “Wutach Scouts”,
who wear lapel pins saying “Naturschutzdienst”. Please support these volunteers from the Schwarzwaldverein and the
Bergwacht (Mountain Rescue Service) in their work – your
cooperation is crucial!
Since 1994, a full-time nature conservation officer – the
“Wutach Ranger” – has worked in the gorge on behalf of the
nature conservation authorities. The officer is glad to tell
you about his work and the programs on offer (for contact
information, see the inside of this brochure). The Schwarzwaldverein, the area’s municipalities, and the three districts
of Breisgau-Hochschwarzwald, Schwarzwald-Baar-Kreis, and
Waldshut can provide additional information.
Waterfall at Tannegg (Ker)
Exploring the gorge on shank’s pony
For decades, the many hiking trails through the Wutach Gorge
have been marked and maintained by the Schwarzwaldverein
and its volunteers. The long-distance trail from Freiburg to
Lake Constance (Querweg Freiburg-Bodensee) – waymarked
by a red-and-white lozenge on a yellow background – follows
the gorge between Haslachschlucht and Achdorf.
For nature‘s sake
Picnic areas with fire pits are located at Wutachmühle, Schurhammerhütte, and near Dietfurt.
We’re delighted you’re showing an interest in the nature reserve
and hope you‘ll relax and enjoy the beauty of nature. At the
same time, to assist the Nature Conservation authorities in protecting this environment, please abide by the following rules:
Hint: You don’t have to begin your Wutach Gorge hike at the
main entry points. Why not hike from one of the surrounding
villages across the scenic Muschelkalk plateau and let yourself
be surprised by the impressive drop of the gorge?
Please note: Depending on the weather and the time of year,
some stretches of the gorge’s trails can be slippery and
dangerous. Wearing appropriate footwear and paying careful
attention are important for a safe hike. Should you, despite
every precaution, slip, look for the signs put up by the
Bergwacht to help you identify the rescue sector (Rettungssektor) you’re in and get help fast.
Please do not leave the marked trails. Rest or take breaks
only in designated picnic areas. Leaving the trails damages
or destroys delicate flora and fauna in the nature reserve
(including in the water). At steep slopes, other visitors may
be endangered by falling rocks if you go off the trail.
Bräunlingen
Hüfingen
Friedenweiler
Please contribute to preserving the area’s biodiversity by not
picking or digging up any plants. Many rare and threatened
plants can be found in the gorge.
Sumpfohren
Titisee-Neustadt
Black kite (Milvus migrans) (Dan)
Rock at Räuberschlössle (KS)
All dogs must be kept on a leash. Whenever dogs are around,
ground-breeding birds tend to leave their nests, exposing
their fledglings to increased danger. On the narrow trails,
even peaceful dogs can be a danger to each other unless kept
on a leash.
Gauchach Gorge (KS)
Dittishausen
Behla
Please ride your bike or mountain bike only on solid trails
that are at least 2 m (6.5 ft) wide. Horseback riding is not
Fürstenberg
allowed on footpaths or on marked hiking trails
less than 3 m
(10 ft) wide. Cyclists and equestrians will find an extensive
network of trails surrounding the Wutach Gorge. There are
no horse or bicycle trails traversing the gorge lengthwise.
Donaueschingen
(MS)
The following routes are particularly recommended
for half-day or day hikes:
• Kappel-Gutachbrücke via Räuberschlössle to Schattenmühle (10 km)
• Schattenmühle to Bad Boll (4 km)
• Schattenmühle – Inselwirts-Keller – Bachheim (11 km)
• Lotenbachklamm (1 km)
• Round trip: Bachheim Wanderparkplatz (hikers’ parking
lot) – Inselwirts-Keller – the mouth of Gauchach Creek –
Gauchachschlucht to Burgmühle – Bachheim (10 km)
• Round trip: Boll – Bad Boll – Schurhammerhütte – via
Rosshütte back to Boll Wanderparkplatz (hikers’ parking
lot) (8 km)
Neustadt
Rötenbach
Unadingen
Help keep nature free of litter and garbage by taking your
refuse home with you. Within the nature reserve, there are
no garbage cans.
Löffingen
Rötenbachschlucht
Gu
t
Haslachschlucht
How you can support our work
Using public transport is quick and environmentally friendly.
The Wutach Gorge can be easily reached by bus and train.
During the season, special runs of hikers’ buses are available
on weekends and holidays. With a complimentary KONUS
Guest Card (offered by accommodation providers), visitors
Rötenbach
can travel on those for free as well. You can get brochures
and further information about transportation options from
Deutsche Bahn, Südenbadenbus (www.suedbadenbus.de), or
local tourist offices.
If you’d like to contribute to helping preserve this unique
series of gorges, you can make a donation by bank transfer,
using the reference word „Wutachschlucht,“ to one of the
following two accounts:
Donations Accounts of the Stiftung Naturschutzfonds (Nature
Conservation Fund)
Baden-Württembergische Bank:
IBAN: DE15 6005 0101 0002 8288 88, BIC: SOLADEST
Löffingen
Postbank Stuttgart:
IBAN: DE67 6001 0070 0010 1007 06, BIC: PBNKDEF
h
Burgmühle
Göschweiler
Donaueschingen
Döggingen
Stallegg
Reiselfingen
Inselwirts-Keller
Unadingen
Räuberschlössle
Rümmelesteg
Holzschlag
Gauchachschlucht
Gündelwangen
Schattenmühle
Long-distance trail between Freiburg
and Lake Constance
Rail line
Schluchtensteig
hiking
trail
Döggingen
Wutachmühle
Information pavilion
Wutach
Unadingen
ehem.
Bad Boll
570 m
Shelter
Schurhammerhütte
0
500 m
757 m
1000 m
Blumberg
704 m
former
ehem.
Bad Boll
Schurhammerhütte
Ewattingen
Überachen
Achdorf
539 m
Rosshütte
Buchberg
880 m
(Klü)
Münchingen
Bus stop
Hiking trail
Versickerung
619 m
Boll
Restaurant
Aselfingen
Wutach
757 m
Natura 2000 (Habitats Directive Area)
Wiederaustritt
Rümmelesteg
Neu-Tanneg
570 m
g
llblech w e
We
Donaueschingen
Inselwirts-Keller
Neu-Tannegg
Lotenbachklamm
Boll
Bachheim
Reiselfingen
Parking
Fire pit
Achdorf
Blumberg
2000 m
Bonndorf
Ep
Ruin
3000 m
Ewattingen
Roßhütte
Münchingen
Fundamental GIS data © Landesamt für Geoinformation und Landentwicklung
Gündelwangen
Baden-Württemberg (www.lgl-bw.de) 2012, 2851.2-D/7052.
Mundelfingen
Lausheim
Blumegg
665 m
Gauchachschlucht
Rümmelesteg (MS)
Lembach
Bonndorf
Burgmühle
schweiler
Liverwort (Hepatica nobilis) (MS)
Rothaus
Wellendingen
Bachheim
Dillendorf
g
og
ere
nm
ü
Silver-washed fritillary (Argynnis paphia) (MS)
Josef‘s rock (Ker)
Wel
lble
Sa
us
w
ch
This brochure
can be obtained
Schattenmühle
Gündelwangen
• at municipal offices and local tourist offices,Lotenbachthe Schwarzklamm
Löffingen
waldverein (see above), or LUBW (see back panel)
• in the Gorge itself at Gasthaus Schattenmühle, at the information booth at Wutachmühle, or from the nature conservation officers in the field.
Wutachmühle
Mundelfingen
Wutach Gorge Nature Reserve
Dietfurt
Reemergence
Wiederaustritt
Versickerung
Sinkhole
Dietfurt
Burgmühle
776 m
Bachheim
776 m
Lenzkirch
Stiftung Naturschutzfonds Baden-Württemberg beim
Ministerium für Ländlichen Raum und Verbraucherschutz
Seppenhofen
Kernerplatz 10, D-70182 Stuttgart
www.stiftung-naturschutz-bw.de
The Wutach Gorge (Wutachschlucht) hiking map (scale:
1:35,000), issued by the Landesvermessungsamt (state surveychlucht ing office) and the Schwarzwaldverein,
713 m
at Schlossbergring 15,
Wu
tac
h
D-79098 Freiburg,
tel: 0761-380530,
Göschweiler
www.schwarzwaldverein.de
General information:
• local tourist offices and online at www.wutachschlucht.de
Stallegg
and www.schluchtensteig.de
• Martin Schwenninger, full-time nature conservation officer,
Landratsamt Waldshut, tel: 07703-919412,
Räuberschlössle
email:
wutachranger@web.de.
Holzschlag
nbach
Expertly led tours upon request and with prior registration.
Boating is prohibited between March 1 and July 31, and
swimming is prohibited year-round. The Wutach River and
Riedböhringen
its banks are home to special
animals and plants no longer
found anywhere else. Swimming and canoeing disturb these
Eschach habitats and threaten rare species. Also, your own safety may
be endangered by rockfall into the river.
713 m
Wu
tac
h l e nwe g
h
Additional sources of information
Mundelfingen
Fe l senpfad M
Rötenbachschlucht
Gauchachschlucht
Seppenhofen
Tips for getting to the Wutach Gorge
Please only light fires in designated barbecue areas, and do
not camp. Vegetation is damaged when a fire is lit outside a
designated area or when a tent is put up. Also, wild animals
Opferdingen
living in the reserve need nighttime peace.
h
ac
Kappel
(MS)
Seppenhofen
Hausen
vor Wald
Döggingen
eg
chw
änz le
bahn
Fützen
575 m