WARSAW

Transcription

WARSAW

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
WARSAW
April - May 2007
Saska Kępa
Warsaw’s right bank
Gone but not
Forgotten
Buildings of the past
N°38 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1641-5264
CONTENTS
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
5
Download mini-guides
to Poland:
Contents
Property
12
The Basics
14
Getting to grips with Warsaw
Culture & Events
16
Concert listings
Where to stay
19
To suit all pockets
Dining & Nightlife
30
The highs and lows
Nightlife
61
Bars, Clubs, Vice, Advice
Sightseeing
What to see
Check out the highlights
71
Cover story
On this issues
cover is the
Monte Cassino
Monument found
on ul. Długa 62.
Wonder why
th ere’s an 8.5
metre monument
to a small Italian
town in the centre of Warsaw?
In 1943 the Allied
Saska Kępa
push on Rome
was stopped
Gone but not
Forgotten
sh or t by stu b born resistance
at the Gustav
Line, a system
of German fortifications with its
hear t in Monte
Cassino. The Allies launched their attack in January
1944 and fought for months without making significant
gains. Then on May 12, 1944 the Polish Corps entered
the fray, and after six days of fighting the Plosh flag flew
over the ruins of Monte Cassino Monastrey. The Gustav
Line was broken, and the road to Rome opened. For the
full story see page 75.
Saska Kępa, playground of the powerful, stands out as one
of Warsaw’s most engaging districts, not to say eccentric.
Explore it with In Your Pocket on page 8.
Old Town
Courtyards and a fine cathedral
80
Jewish Warsaw
81
Praga
The other side of Warsaw
82
Warsaw Uprising
83
Wilanów
86
Nałęczów
88
Getting around
92
WARSAW
April - May 2007
From A-B
Mail & Phones
Keep in touch
Directory
Shopping
Directory
97
99
104
ISSN 1641-5264
Maps & Index
Street index
City centre map
City map
Country map
Index
107
109
110
112
114
April - May 2007
6
FOREWORD
Once described as the Paris of the East the only
thing vaguely Parisien about modern day Warsaw
are the numerous dog deposits that find themselves
on the end of your shoe. To use other cities as a
yardstick is a little unfair on Warsaw. This is a town
that is barely 60 years old. Flattened in a Nazi fury
the city had to rebuild from scratch, and only then
under the handicap of having the Soviet Union
breathing down its neck. As such its swirl of styles:
you only have to visit Warsaw’s centerpiece, the
hulking Palace of Culture to see for yourself; intricate
socialist realist reliefs peer from stone walls while
not two hundred metres away you’ll find daring new
skyscrapers, buildings still bullet scarred from the
war, grim tower blocks slapped up in the 1960s and
tin huts selling kebabs. And then, squashed into the
northern fringe of the city, Old Town, painstakingly
reconstructed using original architects sketches
centuries old.
This is a city with no rhyme or rhythm. Everything
appears in jarring contrast, from the tramps
picking burgers out of bins to the Escada clad
blondes who clip clop past them. This is not a
city to love at first sight, but one that requires
patience. What appears to be little more than
a concrete and neon whirl at the start turns out
to be one of Europe’s most exhilarating places,
bursting with distractions of every kind; from
cultural to nocturnal. It’s come a long way in a
short time, and there’s no better time to see
it than spring, when Warsaw emerges from its
Stygian like winter gloom. Enjoy it.
As always we welcome comments and criticism.
Get in touch with our editorial department at
editor_poland@inyourpocket.com, or
warsaw@inyourpocket.com with any commercial
enquiries. Have a cracking time.
In Your Pocket Poland
ul. Żurawia 6/12 (room 315)
00-503 Warszawa, Poland
tel. 022 420 34 00
tel./fax 022 420 34 01
warsaw@inyourpocket.com
Europe In Your Pocket
Much has been happening at In Your Pocket since our last issue, not least the launch in February
of our new-look website at www.inyourpocket.
com, packed with new features and even easier
to use than before. We also recently became
the first publisher to produce a city guide to the
exciting Bulgarian mountain resort of Bansko,
while elsewhere research and writing continue
ahead of an early-summer launch for guides to
Katowice (Poland), Kaliningrad (Russia) and
Minsk (Belarus). The full In Your Pocket range
is available to buy online, at http://clickandbuy.
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Editorial
Copyright notice
Editor-in-chief (Poland) Alex Webber
Assistant Editor Zuzanna Ananiew
Contributor Sco
Research Agnieszka Łopuska, Karolina
Montygierd-Łojbo, Aleksandra Olszewska
Design Tomáš Haman
Photography Agnieszka Pagińska,
Lena Wachacka, Sco
Cover Sco
Text and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o.o.
1999-2007. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
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Warsaw In Your Pocket
Maps
Editor’s note
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8
SASKA KĘPA
Set on Warsaw’s right bank Saska Kępa is Warsaw’s
sexiest district, home of the rich, the powerful, the artists
and the intellegentsia. You won’t see many rusty Maluch’s
gasping around the streets, here it’s all embassy cars with
blacked out windows, pristine streets and a nutty collage
of architectural styles that range from 19th century manor
houses to classic 30s to bland Cold War tower blocks.
First settled by Dutch farmers in 1628, the following century
saw it become the hunting ground of choice for Warsaw’s
nobility, though it was not just wild beasts on the agenda – it
was in the palaces of Saska Kępa that the aristocracy would
conduct their frivolous affairs with the local maidens. By the
19th century it emerged as a favourite weekend destination
with the bourgeoisie classes, who would sail across to
enjoy the bowling alleys, shooting ranges and fairground
attractions that had by now sprung up. But it was not until
the beginning of the 20th century that the district really took
off. The inter-war years saw a particularly intense period of
development as the monied classes flocked across the river
to what had become Warsaw’s best piece of real estate. After
the war the communist authorities attempted to keep an eye
on the middle classes as well as the embassies, building
concrete horrors to house members of the militia and secret
police. In fact, Władysław Gomułka – the first secretary of the
United Polish Workers Party (1955 – 1964) – liked the area
so much he lived here, in a flat on ul. Saska 109. A plaque
commemorating his presence since taken down following
persistent vandalism.
Crossing from Poniatowskiego Bridge your first taste of
Saska will be Rondo Waszyngtona, officially re-christened
as such in 2000. While the rest of Saska Kępa enjoys
a reputation for its serenity this is anything but. Rondo
Waszyngtona is battlefield of tramlines and concrete
subways, always buzzing with people laden with plastic bags
making their way to and from Poland’s most famous market.
The environs of the crumbling Stadion Dziesięciolecia are
now home to Europe’s largest outdoor bazaar and rate
as Warsaw’s most absurd attraction. Originally built in the
1950s on top of WWII rubble the oval shaped open air arena
became the national football stadium and frequently drew
capacity crowds of 70,000, and occasionally much more
for official state parades and festivals. It was in front of a
crowd of 100,000 that Ryszard Siwiec set himself ablaze in
1968 in protest at the Soviet led invasion of Czechoslovakia.
Posthumously awarded the Order of Polonia Restituta a
plaque today commemorates his act.
By the 1980s the stadium was left to fall into disrepair and it
was only the fall of the Iron Curtain that signalled its rebirth.
Rented out by the city to a group called Jamark Europa the
stadium emerged to become the focus of thousands of
traders from Poland’s eastern borders, hence its popular
tag ‘The Russian Market’. Now the Russians – and the guns
they sold – have all but gone, replaced instead by hawkers
from Vietnam, Nigeria and other far flung destinations.
Although it’s clothes,
including some
hilarious counterfeit
designer attempts,
that take up the bulk
of the market, it’s
still possible to pick
up some treasures
including Soviet
militar y medals,
pirated CDs featuring
Bulgarian bonus
tracks, bootleg ged
cigaret tes and
electrical devices
that go boom the
moment th ey’re
plugged in – great
Christmas gi fts,
the lot. Although
you’ll
find
numerous police
milling around do
be on guard for
pickpockets, and
seein g that not
all these hatchet
faced traders are
completely legal
its best not to start
pointing cameras
into strange
faces. Indeed, this
remains the main point for black market activity in Poland,
with over 30,000 traders prosecuted since the market
began.
It’s a cultural experience that can’t be missed, though you will
do if you don’t get here soon. As part of Poland’s bid to host
the 2012 European Football Championship the government
has promised to build a new 70,000 all-seater national
stadium with this site earmarked for that honour. Plans also
include the development of a new subway link, an Olympic
swimming pool, hotel and conference facility. Work on this
glittering new stadium complex will begin later this year, so in
the meantime catch the market in its death throes operating
from dawn until mid-afternoon every day of the week.
Next up on your Saska safari, cross al. Zieleniecka to hit
Skaryszewski Park. This is one of the most beautiful in Warsaw,
and also one of its most notorious thanks chiefly to its popularity
with people who do odd things in bushes at night. Visit by day
though and you’ll find a pleasant 55 hectare site filled with wide
alleys originally designed for horse drawn carriages, artificial
hills, waterfalls, lakes and flowerbeds. Originally founded in
1905 it first went under the name of Paderewski Park up until
1945. There are several points of interest including a monument
commemorating allied pilots killed when their B24 bomber was
shot down in 1944 while trying to supply insurgents fighting in
the Warsaw Uprising. Only seven crew members survived and
one of them, Henry Lloyd Lyne, unveiled the memorial in 1988.
Refreshments can be found in the Miśianka café, a former public
lavatory which now serves cracking homemade pierogi.
To penetrate the heart of Saska take a walk down its
principal high street, ulica Francuska, lined with low level
housing, restaurants and private boutiques. Yet for all its
village atmosphere - everywhere is ‘just down the road’,
or ‘two minutes away’ - Saska has a surreal crossroads
of the world atmosphere. Every street corner comes with
arrows pointing in exotic directions: Yemen, Colombia, Iraq,
Argentina. Welcome to embassy land. There’s 17 in total
here, all occupying sinister looking villas complete with barred
windows and twitching curtains. Although these nests of
intrigue are all gated away you can do the next best thing and
visit the butchers. Situated on the corner of ul. Meksykańska
and ul. Wandy Le Diplomatique is Warsaw’s best meat
market, run by a former Lebanese diplomat who had enough
of the day job and traded it all in to sell hunks of lamb instead.
But then Saska has never been short of quirky characters.
Old timers recall one nutter back in the 70s who used to stand
on the corner of Francuska and Zwyciężców for hours on end
wearing nothing but nylon stockings and a sailor’s shirt and
10
SASKA KĘPA
cap. What became of him, no-one knows, though its unlikely
he shared the grisly fate of Teresa Roszkowska. Poland’s
first female stage designer was another well known Saska
‘character’, and never seen without odd makeup and three
Pekinese dogs running wild. She met her end when she was
murdered in her house on Zwyciężców in 1992.
The district has always been traditionally home to Warsaw’s
artists and bohema with other noted residents include poet
Agnieszka Osiecka and sculptor Stanisław Sikora. A plaque
on his house on Obrońców 28/30 commemorates Pablo
Picasso’s passing visit, and the garden is home to numerous
freaky statues and installations. This is by no means a
closed community. Mix with modern day intellectuals at the
artistic-literary salon run by journalist and camerawoman
Małgorzata Bocheńska. Held each Thursday and Saturday
at her house on ul. Saska 101 everyone is welcome for
artsy discussion and complimentary bigos with the one
rule being guests have to make their own tea. Sessions
traditionally end at midnight with a waltz and past guests
have numbered Paco Rabbane and jazz musicians Urszula
Dudziak and Michał Urbaniak.
Where to eat
There’s no shortage of restaurants and cafes in Saska,
and they run the range from bank crisis expensive to two
buttons cheap. Francuska, the main high street is the
natural start point, and while a meal in Dom Polski (ul.
Francuska 11) is no longer the pleasure it once was the
garden remains as engaging as ever, no more so than
when it’s in full bloom. If you can overlook the distinctly
average food and top tier prices then by all means, head
here. At the other end of the scale is Efes (ul. Francuska
1), arguably Poland’s premier kebab, and definitely
our favourite. Either queue at the takeaway window, or
practice patience inside while you wait for a table to
be vacated. Close by discover one of Warsaw’s top tea
rooms on Francuska 12. Decorated with lacework, oil
paintings and dark woods Ganders is a revelation for tea
aficionados, with dozens of herbal brews displayed in jars
and containers, and a favourite with housewives primly
dressed in Chanel. For sushi Tekeda on Francuska 16a
originally pioneered the ‘fish floating by on boats’ idea in
Warsaw, and isn’t a bad choice for those looking for an
immediate raw fish fix. Next door is Sublimo, a charmingly
tacky café/restaurant with signed photos of local celebs
and a Mediterranean atmosphere, while for ice cream go
nowhere else but Akwarium on Francuska 50.
In other directions Maska on ul. Obrońców 12a is famous
for it’s connections with the theatre world, as well as
simple local dishes cooked to high standards. Filled with
flowers and stage masks this is one of the top venues
in the vicinity for drinking and dining and a firm favourite
with local embassy workers. On the parallel street find
Passe Partout (Zwyciężców 21), a cool effort with blond
colours, sofa seating and an experimental menu that
features dishes from across the world. The back garden
is worth the visit alone. If you’re low on cash, and even
if you’re not, visit the Budapest just across the road.
It’s a basic space with clay coloured walls, strings of
paprika and a cat pottering around, while the simple
Hungarian dishes come piping hot and cooked just the
way a grandmother would. Finally, no rundown of SK
dining would be complete without a nod in the direction
of Boathouse (see Where to eat), still one of Warsaw’s
top restaurants after years in the business. The garden
is the size of a field, with great views of downtown and
proper protection against mosquitoes.
Poniatowskiego Bridge
Get to Saska by crossing Poniatowskiego Bridge, a grand
structure that’s enjoyed an utterly calamitous existence:
in less than one hundred years of being alive it’s seen a
coup d’etat staged on it, been bombed twice, collapsed
once and burnt down another time. Commissioned in
1904 the plans to build Warsaw’s third bridge met with
widespread uproar from the start, with public figures like
author Bolesław Prus slating it as a misappropriation of
city funds. It took ten years for the bridge to be completed,
and it was finally unveiled on January 6, 1914... just in
time for WWI. Officially christened ‘The Bridge of our most
Gracious Ruler, Tsar Nicholas II’ the 506 metre structure
had been built using 6,000 tonnes of steel though that
was soon to go up in smoke as retreating Russian troops
dynamited the bridge in a bid to stem the German advance.
The Germans made a patchwork attempt at rebuilding it
but it burned down within a year and stood skeleton-like
in the water for several years.
In 1921 the newly independent Polish government
decided to see if they could fare any better and rebuilt it
over the course of the next five years, this time just as a
political crisis was looming. With Poland on the brink of
civil war the bridge served as a meeting point between
the leaders of the two opposing factions (Marshal
Piłsudski and President Wojciechowski) on May 12,
1926. Talks broke down and over the next three days
379 people died in fierce clashes before the government
ceded power.
Renamed to honour Polish aristocrat and military hero
Prince Józef Poniatowski the bridge then underwent a
complete aesthetic renaissance, with pavilions, lamps,
turrets and flower baskets added. But it wasn’t long
until Warsaw was under the swastika, and this time
the Germans did a professional job on it, more or less
demolishing it completely on September 13, 1944. After
the war a hastily erected wooden structure was built
on the surviving pillars but lasted a matter of months
before falling into the Wisła, and it was not until 1946
that Poniatowskiego Bridge as we know it was reopened
in a serious ceremony presided over by Bierut, Poland’s
first communist leader. After years of being left to rot
Poniatowskiego is now returning to its former glory, with
many original details being added.
Lena Wachacka
12
PROPERTY
In the past second home buyers have tended to focus on
sunshine destinations such as Spain and France, though
recent trends show this is gradually changing. Poland in
particular has enjoyed a boom in foreign interest, and the
country has seen a large surge in European buyers lured
by the promise of cheap prices and fast profits. Poland’s
accession to the EU in 2004 further accelerated this trend
and foreign property ownership is now far more common
than one would expect. Poland’s fast growing capital city
has seen a particular spurt of interest.
Poland’s messy political situation, high unemployment figures
and massive brain drain will not come as news to anyone
with the vaguest sense of the world around them. With
unemployment hovering at around 16.5% over a quarter of
a million Poles have registered to work in the United Kingdom
alone, with the magazine Polityka claiming that as many as
a million have migrated to British shores. So why invest in
Poland when the future looks so uncertain? Firstly the exodus
of young Poles largely concerns those in low-skilled jobs,
and analysts predict many will return once their cash has
been made. Meanwhile, those in white collar positions are
just as likely to locate to Poland’s burgeoning cities, such as
Warsaw and Kraków.
The glory days of making vast profits on property may
have come to an end, but Warsaw still presents a very
attractive investment opportunity. While you’ll be lucky
to find a property that appreciates 20-30% in value per
annum, Mike Judge of Polish Property, claims that an
annual appreciation of 12% is still achievable. According
to government sources the population of Warsaw could
double in size by the year 2010. With salaries rising
and people flocking to Warsaw Steve Doran of Capital
Properties expects the growth in the real estate market
to continue for a minimum of seven years, ‘Warsaw will
still be the place to invest in as it grows as an international
business centre, added to the fact a million people or
more will relocate to Warsaw in the next five to ten years’.
Conversion to the Euro (projected for 2010) is seen as
a further economic kick. Tim Hill, the UK Operations
Manager of Mamdom - relocation and property experts
- is also optimistic for the future: ‘The gold rush will last a
long time. Several factors will cause this. First off Poland
has a GNI per capita of $5,820 compared to $25,270 in
Germany, which is far too large a gap for neighbouring
countries. Secondly only 14% of Poles have a mortgage
– as more take them on property prices will rise. Finally
increased tourism is a major contributing factor. The
underlying economy and Poland’s geographical location
make Poland a natural success story that the politicians
would have to try very hard to stop. Poland represents an
excellent long term investment. It is, however, time to think
smarter and consider how the trailblazers who made so
much out of Kraków think. In other words look for cities
where there are improving air, rail and road links and have
features such as attractive old towns. Lublin is a classic
speculative choice in this regard as it’s a large city with a
possible airport to come, 80,000 students and a location
close to the Ukraine which may join the EU within the next
ten years’. For the time being the message is clear: get
in while you can.
The buying process
According to John Naughton o f Krakow-based TNI
Proper ties (w w w.tniproper ties.com) your first step
will be to find a reputable broker, view and select a
property: ‘Choose a solicitor and arrange a notary for
the preliminary agreement. A foreigner will also require a
licensed translator. The final agreement can be up to four
weeks later. If the property is off-plan then a reservation
is usually the first step followed by a preliminary in
which the developer is awarded the building permit
– the planning permission will be in place prior to the
reservation. The final agreement will then be signed
during the handing over of the keys. The bank will usually
take care of the stage payments after the first 20% has
been paid.’ Although Poland’s political situation remains
volatile laws regarding taxation are not expected to
change dramatically.
Facts & Figures, Pros & Cons
According to Doran 95% of investors are looking for
new builds, and as tempting as it may seem to buy
a period residence bear in mind many properties will
require renovation, which means futures costs. New
developments, while lacking the obvious charm of older
properties will provide owners with far fewer migraines.
Much of Poland remains mired in paperwork, and while
Doran claims the bureaucratic situation is no longer the
nightmare it once was, buying a new property will mean
much of the paperwork will be negated to the developer.
Tim Hill recommends looking at properties dating from
the 70s and 80s: ‘they’re solid and many have been, or
will be, given a facelift. And when agreeing a sale price
be clear what you expect it to include. In Poland many
vendors assume you don’t want the kitchen, bathroom,
flooring and other fittings if you don’t mention it to them.
And immediately look at how you are going to transfer the
funds as you can make costly mistakes with only small
changes in the exchange rates.’
According to Naughton the biggest pratfall awaiting potential
buyers comes in the shape of the ubiquitous pub pest who
knows it all. ‘Always use a reputable broker with a license and
a solicitor to represent you and check out the title deeds.’
Both Judge and Doran agree on the importance of finding
a good solicitor, and all property companies will be able to
recommend one. Expect to be paying approximately 1,000
Euro to a lawyer dealing on your behalf, and do consider
handing him the power of attorney to sign documents on
your behalf. Doran further advises for prospective buyers
to only deal with known developers and to be aware of any
monthly management fees. Rip-off scams are rare, but its
imperative that buyers choose the right area. Proximity to a
metro line is seen as important, or if you’re driving then make
sure you have access to underground or guarded parking.
Mokotów is seen as a favourite expat colony, while Wilanów
more suited to families looking for detached housing. Those
wishing to rent their property can expect yield of anything
between 5-12%.
Sample prices
In general expect to pay around €2,950 per square metre for
an unfinished downtown property, and around €1,800 per
square metre in an area like Mokotów. Immediately outside
Warsaw €299,000 will buy you a three bed, two bath house
(200m2) with garage, on a plot of 1,500m2 at the British-style
Czarny Las development (www.czarny-las.pl).
Brokers
Capital Properties www.capitalproperties.pl
Mam Dom www.mamdom.com
Polish Property www.polish-property.net
Centur y 21 Atlantis Real E state B - 3, ul.
Swietokrzyska 32, tel. 022 654 21 21, www.c21atlantis.
pl. Estate agents with an office in central Warsaw with offers
ranging from flats to large developments.
14
BASICS
Facts & Figures
Territory
Poland spans 312,685km2 making it the ninth biggest
country in Europe. Its borders stretch 3,582km (3,054km
- land borders, 528km - sea borders) and it shares
frontiers with seven countries: Russia (210km), Lithuania
(103km), Belarus (416km), Ukraine (529km), Slovakia
(539km), the Czech Republic (790km), and Germany
(467km). Kraków is in the southeastern portion of Poland
near the Czech and Slovak borders.
Population
Poland: 38,100,000 (2004)
Warsaw: 1,689,000 (2003)
Local Time
Poland is part of the Central European Time Zone
(GMT+1).
Twin Towns
Astana, Berlin, Chicago, Düsseldorf, Hague, Hamamatsu,
Hanoi, Kyiv, Moscow, Paris, Riga, Seoul, St. Petersburg,
Taipei, Tel Aviv, Toronto, Vienna, Vilnius
Alcohol
While Polish beer elicits mixed reports from the foreign community, Polish vodka stands alongside the best, and the country is
rightfully seen as the ancient home of the wicked sauce. The elite
brands are commonly accepted as being Chopin and Belvedere,
though those who fancy themselves as connoisseurs of mixology should try swallowing a tatanka – a sweet blend of Żubrówka
vodka (produced with a blade of bison grass in the bottle) and
apple juice. Drunks hankering for something a little more fiery
should look no further than ordering Mad Dog (Wściekły Pies) – a
mix of vodka, Tabasco and raspberry juice; it’ll leave you seeing
stars. One more to look for, and a specialty hailing from Gdańsk is
Goldwasser – a sweetish vodka sprinkled with goldleaf.
But stand warned: Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel. If
you’re determined to make a prat of yourself then make sure
it’s not in front of the law. A trip to Warsaw’s premier drunk
tank (ul. Kolska 2/4) will set you back 250zł for a 15 hour
stay. In return for your cash expect a strip search, a set of
blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants.
Those resisting arrest will find themselves strapped down
to a bed, One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest-style, and if
you’re luck is really low you may find yourself having daylights
beaten out of you by the guards. Refreshment comes in the
form of limitless coffee, though the mug it comes in will smell
of urine for a reason. Credit cards not accepted.
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most countries
will not allow more than 200 cigarettes from Poland. A work
of art produced before 1945 is classified as a ‘cultural good’
and must be authorised before it can leave the country. If
the gallery or shop can’t supply the zaświadczenie (permission) when you buy the artwork, check with the Wojewódzki
Konserwator Zabytków (Regional Curator’s Office). If a book
was printed before 1945, you’ll need permission from the
National Library to take it out of Poland.
BASICS
Flowers
Roads
Safety
As in much of Eastern Europe the giving of flowers comes
with a sophisticated set of rules. Should you wish to stay
on the right side of your lover, parents-in-law, etc pay heed
to the following. Always give an odd number of flowers (or
stems) unless the occasion is a solemn one. If visiting
somebody with flowers be sure to remove the paper before
you arrive. Decorative foil can be left on. Always give flowers
with your left hand in order to shake or kiss the right hand
of the recipient.
Attention should also be paid to colour. If you’re proposing, then
it’s red for your fiancée and pink for her mother. Pink flowers are
also considered the most neutral, so when in doubt use those.
Yellow is the colour of envy, chrysanthemums are for the dead
and carnations remain unpopular, especially among women,
due to their communist connotations. Good luck.
In general Warsaw is far safer than most Western cities, and
visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does
exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets
working tram and bus routes by the train station. If you’re
in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser
pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. The
brevity and dexterity of Warsaw’s criminal community has led
to a spate of thefts from unattended coats. Those travelling
by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on
overnight trains are not unheard of, especially on the routes
connecting Warsaw with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette
or a sleeper cabin. Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi
gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind
around the train station and airport. The officially sanctioned
state company MPT (tel. 9191) is possibly the best bet, and
their switchboard features English speaking operators. The
vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train station are
by in large harmless and easily ignored. Warsaw’s right bank
has traditionally enjoyed something of a no-go reputation,
though that is slowly fading; nonetheless avoiding the area
around Wschodnia train station at night is wise.
Years of practice during the cold war era has meant that the
Poles have truly mastered the art of the queue: more to the
point, the art of queue barging. Whether you find yourself
at a ticket counter, or your nearest KFC, do not make the
mistake of being patient. ‘I’m late for something, can I go
first’ is a common ploy used to fool foreigners into giving up
their place in a line.
Old people in particular seem to assume that they should by
rights be able to take position at the head of a line. The only
time when the common rules of etiquette seem to apply are in
banks or outside ATMs, at which point the natives will assume
a stance as far as possible from the next man, often leading
to confusion who is and who isn’t queuing in the first place.
Note that some municipal offices and post offices employ a
ticket system to help organize queues.
Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, lanes unsuited to the volume of different traffic and,
most of all, drivers who have no consideration for anybody
else result in the common sight of mangled wreckages of cars
around the country. Yes, the crosses you see beside roadsides are there to mark fatal crashes. Police seem unwilling
to control irresponsible driving, and don’t be surprised to see
cars shooting through red lights, cutting each other up and
staking a claim for the Formula 1 championship.
The road quality issue is being addressed with EU directives
and funding but the size of the country’s road network as well
as its condition means that it’ll be years till improvements will
take effect. In fact the issue of the condition of the road and rail
network are being cited by many experts as being a serious
handicap to the development of the Polish economy.
For someone taking to the road today the following warnings
should be taken into account. Firstly when driving outside of
built-up areas you will typically find yourself sharing a single
lane road with anything from a sports car convertible to an
old bloke in charge of a horse and cart. Throw in the huge
fleet of lorries that traverse Poland and you will commonly
find yourself in a situation where traffic is blocked behind said
lorries/horse/tractor. This results in frustrated/impatient
drivers overtaking each other at high speed and then braking
sharply to avoid oncoming traffic. Be warned and keep a safe
distance between you and the vehicle in front.
Secondly beware of the hard shoulders of these roads, the
vast majority of which are unlit at night. These are often used
as pavements by local people who add to the Russian roulette
by venturing out at night wearing their darkest clothing. Add
in the odd drunk on a bike and these hard shoulders become
a very real problem when facing a set of headlights bearing
down on your vehicle.
For those brave enough to venture out the following information should be noted. Poland has strong drink-driving laws:
0.2% is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about
having even a single beer. You can use your home driving
license or an international driving permit for six months from
the entry date on your passport. Headlights must be turned
on at all times from October 1st to 31st March.
The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities, 90km/hr outside urban
areas, 110km/hr on dual carriageways and 130km/hr on
motorways. All cars are required to carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs and a national identity
sticker. Car related crime is high and drivers should make use
of guarded car parks where possible.
Religion
Smoking
For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of
Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions
and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national
unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many
turned to the church for solace and during the communist
era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously
held in churches.
The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine
source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more
profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles
genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started
the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe.
Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism
very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of
the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at
first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that
occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.
Smokers tired of relentless persecution in the west will be
delighted to know that few countries can boast such a fierce
commitment to the habit as Poland. Although the number
of male smokers has plunged from 70% of the population
down to 38% in recent years, this is still very much a tobacco
friendly country. Poland is fast becoming the major European
production centre for leading cigarette brands, with Phillip
Morris, Imperial Tobacco and British American Tobacco all
being major investors in the economy. Those gunning for a
lung-busting taste of a traditional local brand should keep
their eyes peeled for brands like Sobieski, Extra Mocne and
Meski. Bear in mind that it is taken as bad luck to light your
snout off a candle, especially if you are close to the coast;
an action which apparently guarantees the death of a sailor.
Non-smokers are in for a tough time, and the tobacco free
sections (dla niepalących) of restaurants are often in the
nether-regions of the venue.
Money
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł
notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents,
public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar,
will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins
can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes come
in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 złotys, and there
are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One złoty equals 100 groszy which
come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor, though
for the best deal you are best off simply drawing out money
using your ATM card.
Queuing
Tipping
Tipping etiquette in Poland can be confusing for foreigners. While
in other countries it’s polite to say thanks when a waiter collects
the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the
word thank you is taken as a sign that you won’t be wanting any
change back. This cultural slip-up can get very expensive. What’s
more, the waiter will do his or her best to make you feel deeply
embarrassed if you try to get anything back after realizing your
mistake. For the most part it is common to reward good service
with a 10% tip once you have received your change.
Visas
Poland’s entrance into the EU has seen sweeping changes
to visa requirements. Members of the EU, and citizens of
Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the US can now enter
Poland without a visa and stay for a period of three months
(British citizens can stay for six months).
If you wish to extend your stay then you must visit the Urzad
Wojewódzki on ul. Długa 5 and ask to be issued with a Karta
Pobytu. Visas are not available at airports or land or sea
borders and therefore must be procured from a Polish consulate outside of Poland.
April - May 2007
15
16
CULTURE & EVENTS
What’s On
To find out what’s afoot on the cultural front we have also
provided you with a comprehensive list of events covering
everything from cinema listings to contemporary art.
April 2
Remember that song Supergirl? That was Reamonn, a German Irish band with two platinum records already under their
belt. The concert starts at 20:30 at Stodoła, ul. Batorego
10 (F-4) though doors open at 19:00. Tickets cost 100zł
and 120zł on the day in the club. For more information visit
www.stodola.pl.
April 5
German rockers Tokio Hotel perform at the Torwar on ul.
Łazienkowska 6a (H-4). Gates open at 18:00. Tickets can
be ordered from www.livenation.pl and are priced at 99,
120 and 220zł.
April 12
The Original Shaolin Monks will present their actionpacked dancing version of kung-fu at Palace of Culture
and Science, pl. Defilad 1 ( Kongresowa Hall) (B-4) at
19:00. Tickets are available for 60, 110, 150 and 180zł
at the box office open 12:00 - 18:00, closed Sat and
Sun, or through www.ticketpro.pl. For more details www.
kongresowa.pl.
Until April 22
Sylvia Kolbowski (USA) presents her Inadequate History of American Art through videos and installations
in Galler y 1 at the Centre for Contemporar y Ar t, al.
Ujazdowskie 6 (Ujazdowski Castle). For more info see
www.csw.art.pl.
Until April 22
The works of Gustav Metzger 1995-2007 can be seen at
Zachęta Gallery, pl. Małachowskiego 3 (B-3). Open 12:00
– 20:00. Closed Monday.
April 28
Vonda Shepard, best known as the woman who sings the
Ally McBeal songs performs at Warsaw’s Sala Kongresowa
inside the Palace of Culture. Tickets are 80-190zł and can
be purchased at the Kongresowa Hall box office, open 12:00
– 18:00, closed Sat and Sun, or through www.ebilet.pl. For
details see www.makroconcert.pl.
Until May 7
Gallery 2 at the Centre for Contemporary Art, al. Ujazdowskie
6 (Ujazdowski Castle) is hosting an international joint exhibit
called Uncertain States of America. For more info see www.
csw.art.pl.
May 9
Vaya Con Dios, heroes for the Polish middle aged perform
hits like Puerto Rico, and What’s a Woman…inside the Sala
Kongresowa inside Warsaw’s Palace of Culture. Tickets cost
150, 170, and 190zł and can be purchased from the box office,
open 12:00 – 18:00, closed Sat and Sun. For more details
visit www.kongresowa.pl.
May 13
Watch the thrash metal nutcases Trivium perform Warsaw’s
Proxima (ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99a). You’ll already be aware
these chaps won the Metal Hammer gong for best concert
band in 2005, and tickets are priced at 90-100zł. The box
office is open from 09:00 – 17:00 though will also be on
sale on the gate.
May 26
Yamato The Drummers of Japan visit Poland once more to
present Shin-On – The Rhythm of the Heart. Some reviews
of their shows speak of crumbling ceilings and cracking windows so bring a tin hat and body armour. The show starts at
20:00, with tickets ranging from 80-200zł. Buy them from the
Kongresowa Hall box office, open 12:00 – 18:00, closed Sat
and Sun. For more details visit www.kongresowa.pl.
CULTURE & EVENTS
Silver Screen D-5, ul. Puławska 17, tel. 022 852 89 99,
www.silverscreen.com.pl. One of the poshest cinemas in
town. They also have what’s known as the Platinum Screen,
which boasts extra big seats, free refreshments and fewer
plebs.
Cultural institutes
Austrian Cultural Forum A-3, ul. Próżna 8, tel. 022
June 1
Anyone who has toyed with suicide will be familiar with doom
indie rock merchants Placebo, and you can see them in all their
weirdness at the Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6. Gates open at
18:00, tickets are 99, 120 and 220zł and can be purchased
through www.livenation.pl.
Art galleries
CSW G-4, al. Ujazdowskie 6 (Ujazdowski Castle), tel.
022 628 12 71 ext.108, www.csw.art.pl. The Museum
of Modern Art holds exhibitions, film screenings and theatre
performances. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Fri 11:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free.
Galeria Bali ul. Jasna 22, tel. 022 828 67 71, www.
galeriabali.pl. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
Kordegarda C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 15/17,
tel. 022 421 01 25. Avant garde weirdness. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon.
Zachęta National Galler y of Ar t B-3, pl.
Małachowskiego 3, tel. 022 827 58 54, www.zacheta.
art.pl. Unmissable. One of the leading galleries in Poland,
with a focus on the contemporary. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/7zł., Thu free.
Cinemas
All films (except kids films) are shown in the original
language with Polish subtitles. The Poles have become
obsessed with multiplex cinemas - they’re everywhere,
and most of the big shopping malls can boast one. Expect
to pay around 15zł plus for a ticket.
620 96 20, www.austria.org.pl.
British Council B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 59, tel. 022 695
59 00, www.britishcouncil.pl.
Bulgarian Culture and Information Center A-3,
al. Ujazdowskie 33/35, tel. 022 620 25 20, www.
bigpolska.com.
Cervantes Institute G-4, ul. Myśliwiecka 4, tel. 022
622 54 22, www.cervantes.pl.
Czech Centre G-4, al. Róż 16, tel. 022 629 72 71, www.
czechcentres.cz/warsaw.
French Institute B-2, ul. Senatorska 38, tel. 022 505
98 00, www.ifv.pl.
Goethe Institute A-3, ul. Chmielna 13a, tel. 022 505
90 00, www.goethe.de.
Hungarian Institute of Culture B-4, ul. Marszałkowska
80, tel. 022 629 32 41, www.magyarintezet.hu.
Italian Institute B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 72, tel. 022
627 61 44, www.iicvarsavia.esteri.it.
Japanese Culture and Information Center C-4, al.
Ujazdowskie 51, tel. 022 584 73 00, info-cul@emb-japan.pl, www.pl.emb-japan.go.jp.
Lithuanian Centre G-4, al. Ujazdowskie 12, tel. 022
745 05 93, www.lietuva.pl.
Russian Culture and Information Center G-5, ul.
Belwederska 25 (entrance from ul. Spacerowa), tel. 022
849 27 30, www.ronik.org.pl.
Slovakian Institute C-1, ul. Krzywe Koło 12/14a, tel.
022 635 77 74, www.instytutslowacki.pl.
17
Made in Poland
Like the Czech Skoda and the East German Trabant the
Polish ‘Maluch’ has served several purposes during its
lifetime; a Godsend for families behind the iron curtain,
source of merriment for smirking foreigners and now,
as a cult icon for commie nostalgists. Through the years
Polish exports have won world acclaim, from expertly cut
glass to dangerously delicious vodka, so this flimsy tin
deathtrap on wheels is something of an unlikely hero of
Polish engineering.
Manufactured between 1973 and 2000 in factories in
Bielsko-Biała and Tychy the car was produced under the
Italian Fiat license, with its official title being the Polish
Fiat 126p. Its diminutive size saw it awarded the common
moniker of Maluch (little one), a name that was so widely
used that the manufacturers officially re-christened the
brand in 1997. When the first one rolled off the production
belt in June 1973 it was priced at 69,000 (approximately
three times the average annual wage), and became the
first popular family car in Poland. Throughout communist
times the car could only be purchased through joining
a waiting list, which at times ran to a couple of years,
though diligent workers would often be rewarded with
special vouchers allowing them to jump the queue.
By the time production came to a halt in 2000 over
3.2 million had seen action on the roads of Poland. The
conveyor belts may have ground to a halt but the car still
boasts a remarkable staying power, and you’ll still find
many zipping and weaving between traffic, usually driven
by fearless pizza delivery boys showing an alarming
commitment to delivering their goods in record time.
Theatres
Ateneum D-2, ul. Jaracza 2, tel. 022 625 73 30, www.
teatrateneum.pl.
Atlantic B-4, ul. Chmielna 33, tel. 022 827 08 94, www.
Dramatyczny B-4, pl. Defilad 1 (Palace Of Culture), tel.
kinoatlantic.pl.
022 656 68 44, www.teatrdramatyczny.pl.
Cinema City Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mo-
Great Theatre - National Opera (Teatr Wielki) B-2,
kotów), tel. 022 456 65 00, www.cinema-city.pl. Also at
Promenada (ul. Ostrobramska 75), Bemowo (ul. Powstańców
Śląskich 126a),Sadyba (ul. Powsińska 31) and Janki (pl. Szwedzki 3) shopping malls.
Femina A-2, al. Solidarności 115, tel. 022 654 45 45,
www.kinoplex.pl. Shabby multiplex.
Iluzjon F-5, ul. Narbutta 50a, tel. 022 646 12 60, www.
fn.org.pl. Alternative, underground and cult films.
Imax ul. Powsińska 31, tel. 022 550 33 33, www.
kinoimax.pl.
Kino.Lab D-4, al. Ujazdowskie 6 (CSW), tel. 022 628
12 71 ext. 160, www.csw.art.pl/kino_lab. Independent
and alternative gallery and cinema.
Kinoteka B-4, pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture), tel. 022
826 12 99, www.kinoteka.pl. Multiplex in the heart of the
Palace of Culture.
Multikino al. KEN 60 (metro station Imielin), tel. 022
644 66 00, www.multikino.pl.
Multikino Baby al. KEN 60, tel. 022 543 52 22, www.
multikino.pl.
Muranów B-1, ul. Gen. Andersa 1, tel. 022 831 03 58,
www.muranow.gutekfilm.pl.
Paradiso B-2, al. Solidarności 62 (Museum of Independence),
tel. 022 826 90 91, www.solopan.com.pl. Independant cinema.
Loads of flicks by Lynch, the Cohen brothers and Greenway.
pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 022 692 02 00, www.teatrwielki.pl.
This is the big one.
Komedia ul. Słowackiego 19a, tel. 022 833 68 80,
www.teatrkomedia.pl. You won’t be laughing when you
realise much of it is in Polish.
Kwadrat B-3, ul. Czackiego 15/17, tel. 022 826 96 37,
www.teatrkwadrat.pl.
Mały B-3, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, (Pasaż Wiecha),
tel. 022 827 50 22, www.narodowy.pl.
National Theatre (Teatr Narodowy) B-2, pl. Teatralny
3, tel. 022 692 07 70, www.narodowy.pl.
Rampa ul. Kołowa 20, tel. 022 679 89 76, www.
teatr-rampa.pl.
Roma A-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 49, tel. 022 628 70 71,
www.teatrroma.pl.
Sabat B-4, ul. Foksal 16, tel. 022 826 23 55, www.
teatr-sabat.pl. Pre-war cabaret, dinner shows, etc.
The latest events online:
Sco
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April - May 2007
18
WHERE TO STAY
PRESS & MAIL
Want to see your name in lights? We appreciate all
reader feedback. Send your comments - be they good or
bad - to editor_poland@inyourpocket.com. Please include
a return e-mail.
Just wanted to say a big thank you to everyone at the In
Your Pocket guides. They were as useful as always so
thank you so much for getting them to us. We ended up
in Bar Below in Warsaw ourselves (amongst several other
bars) and thoroughly enjoyed our stay in Poland. Thanks
again for all your help. Kind regards
Sue Hastie
I’d like to thank you again for your informative and enjoyable
guides - I subscribe to Krakow in Your Pocket and always
look forward to the next issue. I’m planning to visit Łódź for
the first time at the end of March- it’s only a short trip and
I want to see as much as possible, so I was hoping to buy
a copy of Łódź in Your Pocket before I go so I can read it at
leisure. So far attempts to buy a copy of the Łódź issue in
Krakow have only resulted in some funny looks.
Gill Buswell
Editors reply: The full range of In Your Pocket guides can be
purchased online from our website at http://clickandbuy.
inyourpocket.com. Mini guides, available in PDF format, can
be downloaded for free from www.inyourpocket.com.
So now I have let enough time pass by without writing
this letter to the In Your Pocket team - it’s high up the
time to do this. I clearly and definitely have to state
that the guide to Gdańsk is absolutely and indisputably
my all-time favourite guide on the planet. No doubt. I
have been to many places in my life, and have had to
struggle through boring and non-informative stacks of
so-called guide books. Sometimes disappointed that
I have spent money for such crap, sometimes angry
about the same.
However, a deep bow for the commitment of all the
many avid researchers bustling through the multifarious
tri-city, finding the unknown to be known and shown.
Respect.
Martin Schneider, Vienna
I picked up a copy of your Poznań magazine and while I am
really happy that such a guide exists, flicking through it, I
found some inaccuracies: I do not think one can get a better
deal using an ATM rather than a KANTOR. My experience
says the opposite, if you take into account your bank’s
exchange rates plus the charge for using the ATM abroad.
Queuing: while there is a stark contrast between a Polish
and a British bus stop in this respect, generally the system
in Poznań works about the same as everywhere in the
old EU. As for roads. A horse and cart! I think you should
leave town more often! I have not encountered this west of
Warsaw for a decade now. It is the battered old Maluch you
should warn against.
I would like to stress that I appreciate the effort put into
the guide, par ticularly in the ever changing worlds of
accommodation, restaurants and entertainment. I wish you
good luck with next issues.
With kind regards,
Maciej R. Tumasz
Picked up your very excellent Warsaw guide in the fitness room
in Polonia Palace’s basement.
Truly informative and entertaining, especially the sections
on booze, clubs, Polish food and what to expect at the cop
shop! I do however have a slight reservation about your calling
Borpince Ausrtian-Hungarian - it’s as truly 100% Hungarian
as it gets! The place was excellent from the food the service
to the wine list. Excellent atmosphere too. Thanks for the
recommendation.
Chris McAlister
Your pub and restaurant descriptions - sometimes
hilarious, and pretty much drastically accurate.
Karol Kardach
I just returned from a business trip to Lodz. Several of us from
my company spent over a month in the city. We visited nearly
every restaurant and pub available on the main drag and
once we discovered our favorites, we returned time and time
again. One of our favorites was Hola Amigo. I was surprised
to read how dissatisfied you were with this place. The food
we had was very good and the service was the best we had
anywhere. The energy of the waiter, who turned out to be
the owner as well, was incredible and even when the place
was packed, he managed to provide great service. He went
above and beyond what we expected. I agree with most of
your restaurant assessments but, in my opinion, you were
too harsh with Hola Amigo. Maybe you should go back and
try a steak. They are the best in town.
Darrin Miller
I recently read - and was very impressed by the latest
issue of Warsaw In your Pocket. Concerned as I am
by the influx of ‘Angielski dupkow’ (English ar*eholes)
virtually every weekend, I was interested in your review
of the Kaiser Restaurant and the reason for taking the
football scarves down. It saddens me to see bars I
have long used degenerate into a sh*t-hole pub most
weekends from Friday evening to closing on Sunday. I
will not describe any of the antics that these English
idiots get up to, but it’s embarrassing for customers
and humiliating for the staff who have to serve them.
Perhaps I’m ‘pressing the wrong buttons’ and the
majority of your readers are ‘Brits on the piss’, and In
Your Pocket think all this is tolerable.
name witheld
Poland Happenings
The price war between top tier hotels is starting to die
and rates are once more creeping up. However, do bear
in mind rates tend to drop at the weekend, and while we
publish the official rack rate, better deals can often be
found online. Prices include breakfast unless otherwise
stated. Star ratings are awarded by the local tourist board,
not In Your Pocket. Hotels will list their prices in Euros, US
dollars and/or złotys. Whatever the case, your bill will be
calculated using the exchange rate of the day.
Symbol key
Cream of the crop
NEW
D Sauna
W Wi-Fi
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant
C Swimming pool
Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Centre E-3,
ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 022 356 55 55, fax 022 356
55 56, info.warsaw@hilton.com, www.warsaw.hilton.
com. Opened in mid-March the Hilton is the latest glittering
addition to Warsaw’s five star club. Guests are greeted by a
breathtaking glass lobby off which you’ll find a healthy dose of
world class drinking and dining options, while situated above
are the conference and function rooms – unlike no other in
town. Take time out in the hotel spa and health club, which
touts a 25 metre pool as part of its repertoire, or live it up in
the top floor executive lounge; equipped with DVDs, snacks,
computer games and private check in. Rooms come with a
stylish modern look, walk in showers and flat screen televisions. The corner suites are particularly impressive, with floor
to ceiling views of downtown Warsaw.Q314 rooms (240
singles €150 - 175, 240 doubles €150 - 175, 73 apartments
€200 - 255). POTHARUFLGKDCW
Holiday Inn A-4, ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 022 697 39 99,
fax 022 697 38 99, holiday@orbis.pl, www.holiday-inn.
com/warsawpoland. As you’d expect from anywhere that
bears the Holiday Inn crest, this hotel has immaculate rooms
which include everything from trouser press to video games.
A quick tour reveals designer boutiques, beauty parlour and
a fitness centre in the basement. Q336 rooms (56 singles
N89 - 155, 270 doubles N89 - 155, 10 apartments N189
- 235). Breakfast €16. THARUFLGKDW
hhhh
Hyatt Regency G-5, ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 022 558
12 34, fax 022 558 12 35, warsaw.reservations@hyattintl.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Situated
right on the doorstep of Łazienki Park, the Hyatt not only has
all the five star trimmings, but the biggest hotel swimming
pool in Warsaw. By hotel standards the rooms are enormous,
and come with easy-on-the-eye cream colours and huge
showerheads designed for that mock rain experience. Q250
rooms (90 singles N75 - 185, 51 doubles N115 - 215, 16
suites N115 - 355, 16 apartments N175 - 355, 2 Diplomatic
Suites N1025 - 1105, 1 Presidential Suite N1995 - 2075).
OTHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh
InterContinental A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 022
328 88 88, fax 022 328 88 89, warsaw@interconti.
com, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. A beautiful
three-legged structure, the Warsaw InterContinental is
nothing short of an architectural marvel. Accommodation
fits the setting, with spacious rooms using pleasant colour
combinations and including every facility one would expect.
Setting it apart from the competition is a fitness centre and
swimming pool on the 44th floor, and huge residential suites
for long-term guests. Q 401 rooms (266 singles N105
- 150, 35 doubles N105 - 150, 75 apartments N180 - 260,
1 Presidential Suite N1200 - 1700). Tax 7%. Breakfast €20.
PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh
Le Regina B-1, ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 022 531 60 00, fax
022 531 60 01, info@leregina.com, www.leregina.com.
Occupying a restored property in Nowe Miasto, Warsaw’s
latest boutique hotel is an attractive ensemble of expensive
artwork and designer furniture. Bleached oak and marble
mocha are used for the floorwork, and each room comes
with unique frescoes, bathrobes and personally controlled
air-conditioning; even the Do Not Disturb signs are made
from velvet. A monastic silence prevails, and colour schemes
are a soothing combination of whites, creams and rich
browns. Q61 rooms (59 singles N300 - 450, 59 doubles
N300 - 450, 1 apartment N650, 1 Le Regina Suite N800
- 950, 1 Presidential Suite €1500). Breakfast €20. Tax 7%.
TJHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh
Le Royal Méridien Bristol C-2, ul. Krakowskie
Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 022 551 10 00, www.warsaw.
lemeridien.com. Commitment to excellence is second to
none, and few hotels can match the history and charisma
offered by the art-nouveau Bristol. You’ll be following in
esteemed footsteps; the plaque in the lobby lists dozens
of celebrities who have stayed here including Thatcher and
Platini. Q204 rooms (173 singles N129 - 159, 173 doubles
N129 - 159, 30 apartments N169 - 1300, 1 Paderewski
Suite €2000). Breakfast €25. Tax 7%. TJHARUF
GKDC hhhhh
Poland is an increasingly important centre of
culture, and artisans, performers and musicians
from all over the world now regularly arrive here
to showcase their various talents. From art house
sculptors to top-name bands, In Your Pocket is
dedicated to bringing news of these events to as
wide an audience as possible. Besides the listings
on these pages, we also regularly update our
website with all the news and events as they reach
us, sometimes after our print guide has gone to
press. For the latest event information make www.
inyourpocket.com the first place you visit.
April - May 2007
19
20
WHERE TO STAY
Marriott B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 022 630 63
06, fax 022 830 03 11, mail@marriott.com.pl, www.marriott.com/wawpl. A hotel with real pedigree, the Warsaw
Marriott has everything from Warsaw’s classiest doorman
outside to award winning restaurants inside. The accommodation has been home to a long line of visiting nabobs,
including George W. Bush. An extensive program of renovation
has recently seen all the rooms upgraded. Q518 rooms
(278 singles N149, 202 doubles N149, 94 suites N149, 1
Presidential Suite €2000). Breakfast €15/20. Tax 7%. PO
THARUFLGKDCW hhhhh
Polonia Palace Hotel B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel.
022 318 28 00, fax 022 318 28 01, pp.reservation@
syrena.com.pl, www.poloniapalace.com. Originally built
in 1913 the structure has undergone an amazing facelift,
and positively shines amid it’s surroundings. Inside the grand
marble lobby features a glass covered atrium, while upstairs
huge rooms come decorated with earth fabrics and contemporary styles. Q206 rooms (198 singles N210 - 230, 198
doubles N220 - 240, 7 suites N250 - 360, 1 apartment N510
- 520). PTHARUFGKDW hhhh
Radisson SAS Centrum A-3, ul. Grzybowska 24,
tel. 022 321 88 88, fax 022 321 88 89, info.warsaw@
radissonsas.com, www.radissonsas.com. An excellent
hotel with top-drawer facilities and rooms themed on Italian,
Scandinavian and what they describe as maritime styles.
All come with dataports, three telephone lines, safes and
pay-TV, and there’s also state-of-the-art conference, dining
and fitness facilities. The hotel’s chic, fashionable image is
a welcome change to a couple of the more stuffy hotels in
town. Q311 rooms (283 singles N110 - 240, 283 doubles
N110 - 240, 27 apartments N180 - 250, 1 Presidential Suite
N1000). Tax 7%. Breakfast €20. PTHARUFLG
KDCW hhhhh
Rialto F-4, ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 022 584 87 00, fax
022 584 87 01, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Poland’s first
boutique hotel. Decorated exclusively in art-deco style the
furnishings were hand picked from antique stores from across
Europe. Individually designed rooms come with custom made
Italian linen, DVD players and every extra you can wish for.
Our favourite: room number 13, designed in a colonial style
and featuring zebra skins and tribal masks. A stay here is not
unlike setting foot on the set of a Poirot mystery. Calling the
shots in the kitchen is Poland’s number one celebrity chef:
Kurt Scheller. Q44 rooms (6 singles N139 - 225, 27 doubles
€159 - 241, 11 apartments N390 - 524). Breakfast €15-18.
THARUFGKDW hhhhh
Sheraton Warsaw Hotel C-4, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 022
450 61 00, fax 022 450 62 00, warsaw@sheraton.
com, w w w.sheraton.com.pl. Fi tness centre, office
space, boutique and a line-up of top restaurants and bars
make the Sheraton a world within itself. There’s first-class
traits aplenty and all rooms come with three phone lines,
dataports, evening turndown service, etc. The more you
spend the more perks you’ll find. The Club Suites come with
complimentary cocktails, personal club attendant and fax,
copy and printing facilities. Q350 rooms (335 singles N126
- 198, 335 doubles N126 - 198, 14 apartments N406 - 478,
1 Presidential Suite N1439 - 2100). Breakfast €24. Tax 7%.
PTHARUFLGKDXW hhhhh
Sofitel Victoria Warsaw B-3, ul. Królewska 11,
tel. 022 657 80 11, fax 022 657 80 57, sof.victoria@
orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. Dapper rooms boast video
games, newspapers and minibar, as well as more mundane
items like dataports and trouser press. Business rooms
come with an additional study, complete with fax, copier
and a separate bathroom. Q 341 rooms (158 singles
N130 - 195, 120 doubles N130 - 195, 10 apartments
N285 - 315, 1 Presidential Suite €1550). Breakfast €20.
From Jen. tax 7%. OTHARUFLGKDCW
hhhhh
The Westin A-3, al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 022 450 80
00, fax 022 450 81 11, warsaw@westin.com, www.
westin.com.pl. Warsaw’s best lift zips guests to the desired
floor, with rooms coming decorated in warm tones and ultramodern fittings. Each comes replete with dressing gowns
and slippers, in-room movies and well-stocked minibars.
Q361 rooms (361 singles N142 - 192, 361 doubles N142
- 192, 15 suites N342 - 492, 1 Presidential Suite N1600).
Breakfast €27. Tax 7%. THARUFLGKDW
hhhhh
Upmarket
Best Western Hotel Mazurkas ul. Poznańska
177, Ożarów Mazowiecki, tel. 022 721 47 47, fax
022 721 47 51, www.mazurkashotel.pl. Handsome
accommodation 14km from central Warsaw. Gleaming
fixtures and fittings, plus all the gadgets and extras you
require. Q 158 rooms (154 singles 515zł, 154 doubles
550zł, 4 apar tmen ts 1065zł). THARUFL
GKD hhhh
Jan III Sobieski E-3, pl. Artura Zawiszy 1, tel. 022
579 10 00, fax 022 659 88 28, www.sobieski.com.
pl. The façade has just been given a lick of paint, meaning
it’s now back to a ghastly combination of pink and yellow.
The interior is more subtle and features a marble lobby,
big rooms and fitness facilities. Q427 rooms (60 singles
N77 - 190, 367 doubles N89 - 205, 41 apartments N135
- 265, 1 Royal Suite N695). PTHARUFLG
KDW hhhh
Mercure Warszawa Fryderyk Chopin A-3, al. Jana
Pawła II 22, tel. 022 528 03 00, fax 022 528 03 03,
h1597@accor.com, www.orbisonline.pl. The colourful
rooms at the Chopin provide quality accommodation with
a hint of Gallic flair. Rooms have a contemporary style and
offer guests all expected mod cons: internet connection,
air-conditioning, minibar. Q249 rooms (111 singles N135,
131 doubles N135, 7 apartments N220). Breakfast €15.
THAUFLKDXW hhh
Novotel Warszawa Centrum B-4, ul. Marszałkowska
94/98, tel. 022 621 02 71, fax 022 625 04 76, nov.
warszawa@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. The giant
skyscraper has ditched its former yellow exterior in favour
of a sleek silver look, while the lobby has been completely
rehauled, with a top notch fusion restaurant and bar added.
Upstairs spanking clean rooms come with all expected amenities, as well as grandstand views of the skyline. This is the
Novotel experience completely reinvented. Q733 rooms (50
singles €158, 661 doubles €158, 12 suites N230 - 246, 10
apartments N190 - 206). Breakfast €15. PTHARU
FLGKDW hhhh
Zajazd Napoleoński ul. Płowiecka 83, tel. 022
815 30 68, www.napoleon.waw.pl. Napoleon allegedly
camped out here during his march to Moscow, hence the
name. Rooms have been revamped since those days but
still carry a mildly austere atmosphere as a result of the dark
colour schemes and vintage lampshades. Q24 rooms (21
singles 240zł, 21 doubles 340zł, 3 apartments 440 - 540zł).
HAULGKW hhhh
22
WHERE TO STAY
Daniel Liebeskind
Warsaw’s changing horizon is set for more dramatic
developments with the news that the Orco Property
Group in conjunction with acclaimed architect Daniel
Liebeskind are to construct a 192 metre residential tower
in the heart of Warsaw. Flanked by the InterContinental
Hotel and the Palace of Culture the Złota 44 project (www.
zlota44tower.com) will house 251 luxury apartments, a
25 metre stainless steel swimming pool and top floor
wooden sundeck. The daring glass tower effects the
looks of a giant Arabian cutlass and in spite of an average
price of 7,000 Euro per square metre apartments
are already being snapped up fast by Polish celebs.
Completion is sketched in for 2009 and packages include
the chance to buy apartments with interiors designed by
Liebeskind himself.
It’s the first time he’s chosen to design in Poland. Born
in Łódź in 1946 much of Libeskind’s family was wiped
out during the Holocaust, and he became a naturalized
citizen of the United States in 1965. On leaving school
he originally opted to study music in Israel, becoming
a virtuoso accordionist, before pursuing a degree in
architecture at New York’s Cooper Union, and gaining a
postgraduate degree from Essex University. Employed
as the head of the architecture department at the
Cranbrook Academy of Art he rocketed to fame when
he won the commission to design the Jewish Museum
in Berlin in 1989. Although it took ten years to complete
the building proved a design masterpiece, and more
commissions followed, including the Imperial War
Museum in Manchester. To many though he will be most
familiar as the man who won the contract to create
the masterplan for the World Trade Center following
the 9/11 attacks. Libeskind’s design envisaged a 541
metre Freedom Tower, including aerial gardens and
windmills, transit station and museum. Wranglings with
the other architects and developers involved meant that
by 2004 Libeskind had been complexly squeezed out
of the project, but he remains one of the worlds most
eminent architects.
Mid-range
Agrykola H-4, ul. Myśliwiecka 9, tel. 022 622 91 10,
www.agrykola-noclegi.pl. A sterile, green and unspectacular hotel. Finding the right entrance often involves a game of
cat and mouse with guard dogs and security lights. Q26
rooms (11 singles 249zł, 11 doubles 300zł, 4 apartments
359zł). HARUGKD
Belwederski G-5, ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 022 840 40
11, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Smart rooms found in the
diplomatic quarter. The pink exterior is as wacky as it gets,
the rest of the hotel offers conservative mid-range comfort
complete with satellite TV and large bathrooms. Q53 rooms
(16 singles 240zł, 26 doubles 280zł, 10 suites 320zł, 1 apartment 480zł). THARUK hhh
Boutique Bed & Breakfast C-4, ul. Smolna 14/7, tel.
022 829 48 01, fax 022 829 48 02, office@bedandbreakfast.pl, www.bedandbreakfast.pl. Quiet and cobbled,
Smolna is not a typical city centre street, and neither is this
your typical set of apartments. Apartments suit all budgets,
though the Queen - featuring jacuzzi and large living space
- is well worth the extra outlay. Accommodation has been
designed to evoke a real atmosphere of home-from-home and
features lots of flowers, natural wood and personal touches
courtesy of Jarek, your host. Q9 rooms (1 single N60, 8
doubles N70 - 105). THARGW
Campanile E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 022 582 72 00,
fax 022 582 72 01, warszawa@campanile.com.pl, www.
campanile.com.pl. Decorated with chequered patterns
and green and yellow colour schemes the Campanile accommodation includes satellite TV and pristine bathrooms.
High standards and a central location. Q192 rooms (192
singles 269zł, 192 doubles 269zł). Breakfast 27zł. TA
RUGKW hh
Dom Literatury B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście
87/89, tel. 022 827 74 28, fax 022 828 39 20, www.
fundacjadl.com. Commanding views of Warsaw’s Old Town
relieve the sepia gloom, but lugging your bags to the top floor
might give you a hernia. At reception, oblivious to the hotel’s
latent menace, awaits a supremely glum and unhelpful desk
clerk. His job necessitates daily contact with foreigners, yet he
remains resolutely, magnificently monolingual. Q13 rooms
(3 singles 220zł, 7 doubles 370zł, 1 triple 450zł, 1 quad 520zł,
1 apartment 600zł). HK
Grand Hotel Orbis C-4, ul. Krucza 28, tel. 022 583 21
00, fax 022 621 97 24, wagrand@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. A central location, proficient staff and a pleasantly
modern interior earn the Grand every one of its three stars. A
recent campaign to sandblast the façade has seen the hotel
shed its previously forboding exterior, and it looks fantastic
when illuminated at night. The line of coaches parked outside
testify to its popularity with foreign tour groups. Renovations
are currently afoot inside half of the building. Q135 rooms
(73 singles N103, 57 doubles N112, 5 apartments N126).
OTHARULGK hhh
Gromada Centrum B-3, pl. Powstańców Warszawy
2, tel. 022 582 99 00, www.gromada.pl. It’s almost
a surprise to find such a good deal in the city centre. As
the coaches parked outside testify, Gromada is a hit with
package tours and conferences. First sight is an over-waxed
marble lobby, and a curvy stairwell spirits guests to modern,
sunny rooms. Q320 rooms (38 singles 250 - 420zł, 264
doubles 300 - 450zł, 5 suites 560zł, 12 apartments 690zł).
AGHKLORTUW hhh
24
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Reservations
In Your Pocket, in association with Stay Poland, offers
its readers and website users the best deals on a wide
range of hotels in all of Poland’s major cities. By visiting
www.inyourpocket.com you can instantly view prices
and availabilty information for thousands of hotels
across the country. What’s more, we also now have a
dedicated hotline for reservations or queries, with a
fully English-speaking staff. Open 24 hours a day the
In Your pocket Stay Poland hotel reservations hotline
number is 48 (0)22 351 22 35.
Europejski
A superb bygone creation the Hotel Europejski (B-2, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmieśćie 13) finally closed it’s doors
in 2006 following nearly 130 years of service. Built on
the site of a guesthouse called Gerlach, the Europejski
– or the Europa as it was first known – was funded by
publisher Aleksander Przeździecki, and inspired by the
designs he had seen in his travels across the world.
Touched up by architects like Henryk Marconi it came
to be regarded as the first modern hotel in Warsaw. The
German invasion in 1939 brought an end to Warsaw’s
golden age and the hotel was commandeered by the
Wehrmacht. Throughout the occupation the staff,
kept on to serve the Germans, played their part in
resistance, hiding both Jews and Russian refugees
within the building. The structure was smashed to
pieces during the Warsaw Uprising and the Nazi fury
that followed and in the post-war years it was down
to architect Bogdan Pniewski to faithfully rebuild the
Europejski’s shattered shell. For the next couple of
decades the building operated as training academy
for military police, before being handed over in 1956
to the state tourist group Orbis to serve once more
as a hotel. It was to remain in their hands until 2005
when, after 14 years of legal battles and appeals, it
was finally reclaimed by HESA, a company owned by
heirs of the historic owners. The hotel, which once
hosted The Rolling Stones, Robert Kennedy, Marlene
Dietrich and Indira Ghandi, might have been closed, but
HESA have plans to restore Krakowskie Przedmieśćie
13 to its former glory. The lower floors are occupied by
trendy eateries and clubs like U Kucharzy and Hotl, while
plans are afoot to develop the upper floors into luxury
apartments, office space and, once more, a prestigious
hotel. An exhibition of the history of the Europejski can
also be viewed inside.
WHERE TO STAY
Harenda C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, tel. 022
826 00 71, fax 022 826 26 25, hh@hotelharenda.com.
pl, www.hotelharenda.com.pl. A decent family-style hotel
within walking distance of the Old Town. Rooms are decorated
in pink and chocolate brown colours. Q43 rooms (34 singles
295zł, 7 doubles 315zł, 2 apartments 460zł). Breakfast 20zł.
TJHA hh
Hetman H-1, ul. Kłopotowskiego 36, tel. 022 511 98 00,
fax 022 618 51 39, hetman@hotelhetman.pl, www.hotelhetman.pl. This is three-star indentikit accommodation at its
finest. The large rooms come with internet access, hairdryers,
cable TV and neutral beige colour schemes. On the Praga side
of the river. Q68 rooms (13 singles 330zł, 56 doubles 380
- 410zł, 2 suites 700zł). THARULGKW hhh
Hotel MDM F-4, pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 022 339 16
00, fax 022 621 41 73, hotel.mdm@syrena.com.pl,
www.hotelmdm.com.pl. Occupying a spot at the top of
Marszałkowska most rooms in the MDM feature grandstand
views of Warsaw’s finest piece of socialist realism: pl. Konstytucji. Accommodation comes with plum coloured carpets
and predictable three star comfort. Q132 rooms (25 singles
N120, 103 doubles N130 - 150, 4 apartments N180 - 190).
THARUGK hhh
Hotel Metropol
F-3, ul. Marszałkowska 99a, tel. 022 629 40 01, fax
022 628 66 22, hotel.metropol@syrena.com.pl, www.
hotelmetropol.com.pl. While top hotels continue springing
up left, right and centre the Metropol is a classic reminder
of what staying in Warsaw used to be like. True, some floors
are undergoing renovation, but if you pull the short straw
you’ll find yourself walking back through time into an era of
brown threadbare carpets, piercing bathroom lights, rotary
dial phones and smoke stained curtains. This is as cold war
as it gets, with only missing ingredient being suspicious
characters carrying poison tipped umbrellas. Q166 rooms
(96 singles N90, 58 doubles N110, 12 apartments N130
- 170). OTAUGKW hhh
Karat ul. Słoneczna 37, tel. 022 849 33 19, fax 022
849 52 94, www.hotelkarat.pl. Standard three-star accommodation in a leafy suburban setting. Plain, tidy rooms
come with clean finishes and all the expected facilities such
as TV, bathroom and telephone. There’s no minibar, but the
night porter is happy to take orders and head off to the offlicense. Q38 rooms (19 singles 250zł, 11 doubles 350zł,
6 suites 400zł). PTHAULKW hhh
Kyriad Prestige E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 022 582
75 00, fax 022 582 75 01, warszawa@kyriadprestige.
com.pl, www.kyriadprestige.com.pl. Neighboured by two
other hotels from the Envergure group the Kyriad is the most
luxurious of the three, and as such has extra comfortable
beds, in-room toiletries and fitness facilities onsite. There’s
a heavy slant towards the business traveller with excellent
conference and meeting facilities on offer. Q133 rooms
(133 singles 369zł, 133 doubles 369zł). Breakfast 32zł.
PTHARUFLGKDW hhh
Partner Hotel ul. Marywilska 16, tel. 022 814 23
00, www.partnerhotel.pl. A bright, modern hotel with a
Scandinavian aesthetic. Rooms come with pine furnishings
and large windows allowing plenty of natural light to spill in.
It’s a fair distance from the city centre, so possibly best
suited to company conferences. Gym, sauna and a long line
of other facilities on site. Q103 rooms (52 singles 320zł, 40
doubles 350zł, 6 apartments 300 - 890zł). HAULG
KDW hhh
Powiśle Hotel
G-3, ul. Szara 10a, tel. 022 621 03 41, www.hotelpowisle.oit.pl. What startled us was the willingness of the porter
to cheerily point out faults and dodgy light switches. “You
wouldn’t get this in America,” he chuckled. Indeed not. This
dinosaur of a hotel flies the flag for standards that should be
consigned to history. Q75 rooms (23 singles 140 - 160zł,
54 doubles 180 - 230zł, 1 suite 350 - 400zł). Breakfast 20zł.
HARLGK hh
Lord al. Krakowska 218, tel. 022 574 20 00, www.
hotellord.com.pl. Newish hotel within easy distance of
the airport. The large rooms are conservatively decorated
with clean, cream colours, wood furnishings and rich green
carpets. High-standard mid-range accommodation which
includes an all-weather rooftop restaurant. Q92 rooms (17
singles 342 - 364zł, 70 doubles 385zł, 5 apartments 471zł).
THARUFKD hhh
Praski G-1, al. Solidarności 61, tel. 022 818 49 89,
Maria D-1, al. Jana Pawła II 71, tel. 022 838 40 62, fax
F-5, ul. Rejtana 6, tel. 022 646 31 66, fax 022 646 29
89, rez@reytan.pl, www.reytan.pl. Found down a quiet
side street the Reytan delivers a high three star standard.
Crisp bed sheets, bright colours and new furniture. Q86
rooms (10 singles 360zł, 76 doubles 390zł, 2 apartments
550zł). THARULGKW hhh
022 838 38 40, recepcja@hotelmaria.pl, www.hotelmaria.pl. A small, family run hotel offering moderate prices
and prim rooms featuring random floral designs. Q24 rooms
(21 singles 200 - 320zł, 14 doubles 250 - 380zł, 1 triple 300
- 430zł, 3 apartments 350 - 420zł). PTAKW hh
www.praski.pl. A recent renovation means it towers over
most other two star chancers and even the shared facilities
are spotless. Nature buffs should ask for a room overlooking
the Praski Park bears. Q31 rooms (3 singles 200 - 240zł,
23 doubles 220 - 270zł, 5 triples 240 - 300zł). THAR
ULK hh
Reytan
Ibis Hotel - Ostrobramska ul. Ostrobramska 36, tel.
022 515 78 00, fax 022 515 78 88, H3129@accor.com,
www.orbisonline.pl. Practical, fully functional rooms fully in
line with the standard you expect from the Ibis chain. Q137
rooms (137 singles 159 - 229zł, 137 doubles 159 - 229zł).
Breakfast 28zł. PTHARULGKW hh
Ibis Hotel - Stare Miasto E-1, ul. Muranowska 2, tel.
022 310 10 00, fax 022 310 10 10, H3714@accor.com,
www.orbis.pl. More of the same from Ibis: international
standards at competitive standards. Best of all, its location
ten minutes from the Old Town means that your immediate
choice is no longer limited to spending suitcases of cash in
the Bristol. Q333 rooms (326 singles 269zł, 326 doubles
269zł, 7 apartments 319zł). Breakfast 28zł. THAR
UGKW hh
Ibis Hotel - Warszawa Centrum
D-2, al. Solidarności 165, tel. 022 520 30 00, fax 022
520 30 30, H2894@accor.com, www.orbisonline.pl.
Reliable international standards, sensibly priced. Rooms
come armed with all expected mod-cons. Q189 rooms
(189 singles 259zł, 189 doubles 259zł). Breakfast 28zł.
THARULGKW hh
April - May 2007
25
26
WHERE TO STAY
Serviced apartments
Old Town Apartments B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta
12/14, tel. 022 820 92 27, fax 022 831 49 56,
warsaw@bookaa.net, www.warsawshotel.com. A
series of apartments dotted around the city, not just in
old town. Prices to suit each income bracket. Choose from
smart one bedroom flats to 120m2 studio apartments.
Q50 rooms (50 apartments N60 - 150). Breakfast €5.
TJAW hhh
Residence Diana C-3, ul. Chmielna 13a, tel. 022
505 91 00, fax 022 505 91 01, info@residencediana.
com, www.residencediana.com. An outstanding set
of serviced apartments filled with designer furniture and
extras such as DVD players, hi-fi and fully functioning
kitchen. Very chic, and absolutely perfect for the travelling
CEO. Services include a 24hr English-speaking reception,
laundry and business facilities. Also available, discounted
use of the spa in Le Regina hotel in the new town district.
Q46 rooms (46 apartments N180 - 435). Breakfast €9.
Tax 7%. THARULGW hhhh
Residence St Andrews Palace B-4, ul. Chmielna
30, tel. 022 826 46 40, fax 022 826 96 35, info@
residencestandrews.pl, www.residencestandrews.
pl. Plush apartments and properties for short and long
term rental inside a beautifully restored townhouse.
Q24 rooms (24 apartments N95 - 216). TARG
hhhh
Royal Route Residence B-4, ul. Chmielna 1/3,
tel. 022 692 84 95, fax 022 831 49 56, booking@
warsaw-apartments.net, www.warsaw-apartments.
net. Named after Polish monarchs, and located inside a
renovated town house in the city centre, flats at Royal
Route Residence overlook Warsaw’s premier shopping
street. All studio apartments feature a chic, contemporary
design and come with CD players, high speed internet
access and cable TV and the fully equipped kitchens
include microwave and fridge. Apartments sleep from one
to six people. Q15 rooms (15 apartments N70 - 120).
Breakfast €5. TARGX
Warsaw Apartments ul. Augustówka 9, tel. 022
550 45 50, fax 022 550 45 60, www.warsawapartments.com.pl. Self-contained houses and flats offering
privacy, top-notch facilities and homely comfort along with
the services you’d expect of a hotel: cleaning, reception,
etc. Locations around the city. Q88 rooms (88 apartments 235 - 375zł). THARKW
Budget
Amicus ul. Hozjusza 2, tel. 022 561 00 00, fax 022 561
00 59, www.amicus.emeteor.pl. This church-owned establishment offers bright, prim rooms, each featuring ecclesiastical touches like bibles and crucifixes. There’s no elevator, so
don’t stay on the top floor. Q18 rooms (11 doubles 145zł,
6 triples 188zł, 1 quad 230zł). HARGKW
Aramis ul. Mangalia 3b, tel. 022 842 09 74, fax 022 858
21 26, aramis@puhit.pl, www.puhit.pl. Slightly forbidding
at first glance this one star hotel offers base comfort at even
lower prices. Do go the extra yard and shell out on a renovated
room - perks are minimal but the rooms are clean and come
with television and internet access. Q230 rooms (10 singles
110 - 160zł, 70 doubles 110 - 160zł, 145 triples 110 - 160zł).
Breakfast 15zł. HARULGK h
Arkadia
ul. Radzymińska 182, tel. 022 678 50 55, www.hotelarkadia.pl. Clean rooms with striped curtains and duvets,
and staff programmed to be useful. good value, but you’ll find
yourself forking out for taxis. Q55 rooms (18 singles 160
- 190zł, 25 doubles 220 - 260zł, 2 triples 370zł, 1 quad 320zł,
2 apartments 350 - 390zł). HAGKW
Atos ul. Mangalia 1, tel. 022 841 43 95, fax 022 841
10 43, atos@puhit.pl, www.puhit.pl. Another hotel where
spending the extra on a premium room is wholly encouraged. The ‘lux’ rooms tout television and internet access,
and sport a clean design that uses lots of plywood fittings.
A favourite with local conferences, so book in advance to
guarantee a bed. Q225 rooms (14 singles 100 - 170zł, 96
doubles 100 - 170zł, 115 triples 100 - 170zł). Breakfast 15zł.
ARULGK h
Etap
H-3, ul. Zagórna 1, tel./fax 022 745 36 60, H6401@accor.com, www.orbisonline.pl. A super addition to Warsaw’s
budget bracket, and one of the first Etap hotels to be launched
in Poland. It’s a winning formula here: bright, modern rooms
inside a sparkling white building in the quiet Powiśle district.
The rooms come with a simple design but your cash gets
you all the facilities the modern traveller requires: wireless
net access, ensuite bathrooms and cable television. Q176
rooms (112 singles 159zł, 157 doubles 169zł, 14 triples
169zł). Breakfast 18zł. ARUGW h
Logos G-2, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 31/33, tel.
022 622 55 62, fax 022 625 51 85, www.hotellogos.
pl. Urgh. Expect peeling paint and the smell of blocked drains
and stale smoke. The brochure boasts English speaking
staff. They’re lying. Q141 rooms (80 singles 98 - 169zł, 61
doubles 148 - 258zł). HARK h
Mazowiecki B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 10, tel./fax 022
827 23 65, recepcja.mazowiecki@hotelewam.pl, www.
mazowiecki.com.pl. What used to be a grubby budget
hotel has seen modest refurbishments and now promises
utilitarian comfort at cut prices. Q56 rooms (22 singles 150
- 198zł, 34 doubles 200 - 248zł). THAU h
Metalowcy
B-2, ul. Długa 29, tel. 022 831 40 21, www.metalowcy.
emeteor.pl. Completely depressing. Found on the top floor,
Metalowcy treats guests to rooms decorated with dust and
lino flooring, with most sharing grotty washing facilities. Only
for the diehard cheapskate. Q25 rooms (9 singles 87zł,
9 doubles 130zł, 1 triple 192zł, 5 quads 236 - 257zł). No
breakfast. HK
Premiere Classe
E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 022 624 08 00, fax 022 620
26 29, rezerwacjawarszawa@premiereclasse.com.pl,
www.premiereclasse.com.pl. Your best one star option in
the city, and as such often fully booked. Basic, modern rooms
come equipped with private bathrooms and television, and
the location is just a walk away from the train station. Q126
rooms (90 singles 184zł, 90 doubles 184zł, 36 triples 184zł).
Breakfast 18zł. AULGW h
Profesorski
H-6, ul. Bobrowiecka 9, tel. 022 559 22 01, www.
centrumkonferencyjne.com.pl. Providing you don’t mind
shelling out for large taxi bills whenever you fancy going into
town, the Profesorski offers clean and functional amenities. Q100 rooms (7 singles 197zł, 128 doubles 219zł).
HARFLGK
28
WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO STAY
Start Hotel Felix ul. Omulewska 24, tel. 022 210 70
You don’t like
expensive, soulless
hotels?
You don’t like poor
quality, tasteless
hostels?
You have to sleep
somewhere?
Have fun and sleep
well in OKI DOKI!
00, fax 022 813 02 55, felix@starthotel.pl, www.felix.
com.pl. A lumbering giant of a hotel whose size accounts
for the number of Polish conference meetings booked up.
Depressing from the outside, though many of the rooms have
been subject to renovation and have a spotless, sterile style
that should suit the taste of budget travellers. Found on the
right side of the river. Q261 rooms (100 singles 130 - 220zł,
142 doubles 130 - 220zł, 6 triples 150zł, 3 suites 250zł).
breakfast 25zł. HARULGKDXW hh
Airport hotels
Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17 Stycznia 24, tel. 022 456
80 00, fax 022 456 80 29, rezerwacja@airporthotel.
pl, www.airporthotel.pl. Good value for the business
traveller, rooms include dataports, satellite TV and plenty of
natural light. Wins bonus points for the impressive, top-floor
panoramic bar. Q172 rooms (10 singles N70 - 123, 131
doubles N80 - 155, 5 suites N193, 7 apartments N289).
THARUFLGKDW hhhh
Stylized rooms with bathrooms as well as
brilliant functional dorms, each designed
by a different artist, full of colour and ideas.
The lowest prices in the centre of Warsaw
with the night-life of central Warsaw, free
access to Internet, hot-spot, fully-equipped kitchen, a bar with the cheapest beer
in town and a launderette.
Halfway between the Train Station and
the Old Town.
Courtyard by Marriott
ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 022 650 01 00, fax 022 650 01
01, wcy@courtyard.com, www.courtyard.com/wawcy.
Decorated with colourful floral duvets all rooms are fully
sound-proofed and come with big dressing gowns and ironing
boards. The meeting facilities are second-to-none and the
hotel can also boast the best internet café in Poland under
its roof; seating sixty people, it offers high-speed wireless
access as well as a good range of snacks and drinks. Even if
you don’t plan on staying, the hotel restaurant and lobby bar
open a wealth of options for passing air travellers. Q226
rooms (219 singles N135, 219 doubles N135, 6 suites
N175 - 225, 1 Chopin suite N275). Breakfast €15. Tax 7%.
THARUFGKW hhhh
Oki Doki
Warszawa, Plac Dąbrowskiego 3
tel. + 48 (22) 826 51 12
www.okidoki.pl
In the news
Nathan’s Villa Hostel
F-4, ul. Piękna 24/26, tel./fax 022 622 29 46, warsaw@
nathansvilla.com, www.nathansvilla.com. Poland’s best
hostel. Nathan, a backpacker and hedonist himself, has considered every detail from high speed internet to free laundry.
The kitchen/common room is a fantastic space to share a
crate of beer with other travellers, and the high standards
extend to the accommodation: modern bunk beds and gleaming bathrooms inside a fully renovated courtyard building.
Absolutely no curfews, lockouts or checkout times, and staff
who will fall over backwards to help guests. Q19 rooms (6
doubles 160 - 200zł). Dorms 45-60zł per bed. AGW
Oki Doki
B-3, pl. Dąbrowskiego 3, tel. 022 826 51 12, fax 022
826 83 57, okidoki@okidoki.pl, www.okidoki.pl. A charismatic hostel stuffed with abstract art, bits and bobs from
thrift stores and wacky colour schemes. The last few months
have seen a dramatic overhaul, with more private rooms
added. Rooms don’t have numbers, just themes, and have
been designed by a team of local artists. Take a look at ‘The
Realm of Narnia’, like something straight out of C.S Lewis, or
‘The Communist Dorm’, filled with commie iconography and
scenes from Socialist Paradise. Kitchen and internet also
available for guests, as well as what the owners promise is
‘the cheapest beer in Warsaw’. Q37 rooms (1 single 110
- 130zł, 21 doubles 145 - 210zł). Dorms 42-82zł per bed,
breakfast 10zł. TARLGW
Poland’s MPs continued to make the headlines, and it
was no surprise to find the controversial Samoobrona
front man Andrzej Lepper in the thick of it all. One national
paper had claimed that Lepper was blackmailed by a
crime gang after using prostitutes provided by them, and
one of his former members of staff declared she only
won her job after caving in to his lecherous demands
– DNA tests eventually cleared Lepper though his party
now finds itself reeling from the negative publicity, and
Lepper faces charges of slander having accused the
woman at the centre of the row of sexual deviancy. His
rant ended with him calling for her to crawl from Gdańsk
to Częstochowa on a road made of peas while beating
herself on the head and apologizing to everyone.
If that’s a candidate for quote of the year, we’ve already
found the winner of idiot of the year. That’s a title
reserved for a drunk thief who stole a car in Mazury.
Having careered the motor into a ditch the halfwit then
staggered to the nearest house asking for assistance,
not realizing the man he was asking for help was the
legitimate owner of the vehicle. The police were called
and the not so master criminal now finds himself with
plenty of time to ponder his actions in jail.
Closer to Kraków, New Zealander Bruce Robinson
has finally been granted 300,000zł bail after being
imprisoned without trial for over a year. Robinson was
held in connection with the Katowice pigeon fair disaster
of 2006 in which 65 people lost their lives after a roof
collapsed on them. Supporters claim Robinson, who
worked for the company that owned the building, has
been made a scapegoat.
Gromada Airport
ul. 17 Stycznia 32, tel. 022 576 46 00, fax 022 846 15
80, warszawaairport@gromada.pl, www.gromada.pl. A
huge newly expanded wing has opened, adding beds and
upping the overall quality. Rooms incorporate bright, sunny
colours, while the conference rooms could fit a small army.
Just 800 metres from the airport, so don’t worry about
getting stuck into the bar the night before your morning
flight. Q350 rooms (128 singles 250 - 420zł, 190 doubles
280 - 450zł, 29 apartments 500 - 800zł). THARU
FLGK hhh
Novotel Warszawa Airport
TM
D-7, ul. 1 Sierpnia 1, tel. 022 575 60 00, fax 022 575
69 99, rez.nov.airport@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.
pl. Comfortably inside the mid-range bracket, Novotel is a
canny choice for those who expect professional standards
at competitive prices. Splashy colours, dataports and shining
bathrooms lend a comfortable, practical tone to the rooms.
Q278 rooms (277 singles N145, 277 doubles N145, 1
apartment N180). Breakfast €12. THARUFLG
KDW hhh
Hostels
www.warsawShotel.com • warsaw@bookaa.net
Agrykola
H-4, ul. Myśliwiecka 9, tel. 022 622 91 10, fax 022 622
91 05, recepcja@hotelagrykola.pl, www.hotelagrykola.
pl. Not to be confused with the middling hotel downstairs.
Dorms are spacious and modern and there’s also a lounge
area with TV and pool table. A great deal, and as such often
fully booked. Q7 rooms (1 triple 168zł, 6 quads 224zł).
Dorms 36zł per bed. Breakfast 15-19zł. HAGK
April - May 2007
29
RESTAURANTS
30
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
B Summer garden
6 Animal friendly
Louisiana D-1, al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia Shopping
Mall), tel. 022 318 12 25, www.louisiana.pl. Tucked away
on the top floor of the Arkadia Shopping Mall, Louisiana is the
archetypal American experience at a fraction of the cost of
Warsaw’s other American eateries. A number of screens relay
international sport, while the house specialty, the Louisiana
Ribs, leave no gap for dessert. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00. (20-80zł). TAUBXSW
J Old Town location
W Wi-Fi
SomePlace Else
Symbol key
The figures in brackets denote the price of the cheapest
and most expensive main dish on the menu. Note that the
times we list are subject to change and should be used as
approximate guidelines.
American
NEW
Hard Rock Cafe A/B-4, ul. Złota 51, tel. 022 222
07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. A quick interrogation
at the front desk determines the purpose of your visit;
if it’s for drinks, the staff will do their level best to keep
you on the ground floor. If it’s food then you’ll find yourself
ushered downstairs, passing memorabilia that includes
gui tars swung by Poland’s pop heroes, as well as a
leather jacket once worn by Bob Dylan. The menu offers
no surprises, with the usual collection of burgers, wings,
ribs and fajitas. We had a collection of starters, all of
which arrived promptly in spite of the massed hordes of
fashion conscious Polski pop groupies, and subsequently
passed the taste test comfortably; try the spicy chicken
wings. A sprawling floor plan includes space for live bands,
a huge wall of electric guitars, and a long bar lined with
TV screens playing rock hits. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (3069zł). TAUEBXS
Champions Sports Bar B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79
(Marriott Hotel), tel. 022 630 51 19, www.champions.
pl. A vast sports bar with over 34 television screens, two LCD
projectors and two 3ms screens to their name, and enough
sports trophies, signed shirts and miscellaneous memorabilia
to fill a museum. Video games, pool tables and electronic
dartboards keep kids and drinkers occupied, while the open
kitchen is the source of burgers, wings and ribs, delivered by
efficient staff dressed in polo shirts. A Warsaw institution, and
a favoured meeting for the off-duty business crowd. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (25-55zł). ASTX
Chicago’s A-4, ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 022 890 09 99,
www.chicagos.pl. As with all caricature American bars,
décor is an over-the-top collection of Route 66 road signs
and 50s beer ads. Nurse a bourbon while staff ferry orders of
potato skins and apple pie around. Good and uncomplicated,
though occasional live bands do their level best to make
conversation tricky. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00
- 24:00. (16-59zł). ABST
Jeff’s
ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 022 541 34
90, www.jeffs.pl. A classic American bar decked out
with number plates and neon. The chef seems to assume
everyone here is a professional wrestler and the huge portions of steaks and ribs reflect this. Their motto, ‘If it’s not
exceptional, it’s not acceptable’ needs re-wording: ‘It’s acceptable, not exceptional’. Find it on the top floor of Galeria
Mokotów, with a new second location added to ul. Żwirki i
Wigury 32. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00.
(19-49zł). TAUXS
G 3, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel), tel. 022 450
67 10, www.sheraton.com.pl. A fixture on Warsaw’s expat scene, SomePlace Else is the sort of place where staff
are on first name terms with the regulars and live bands
get the crowds dancing between tables. The huge salads
and ‘mumbo jumbo’ burgers are great for hangovers and
are served in an interior with rock’n’roll photos and model
aeroplanes hanging from the ceiling. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00,
Mon 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
(24-99zł). AESTUWX
TGI Friday’s
E-2, al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 022 653 83 60, www.
fridays.com.pl. If you’re hankering for a pre-packaged plastic slice of home by all means, dine at Friday’s. A favourite
with families and the after-five lot from the neighbouring
offices this is an exact replica of the Friday’s you’ll find in
your home town. Average, often better, occasionally awful.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (20-59zł).
ABSTUX
Balkan
Banja Luka
G-6, ul. Puławska 101, tel. 022 854 07 82, www.
banjaluka.pl. Feasting as done the Balkan way in a room
packed with timber, flowers and ceramics. Starve yourself a
few days beforehand to make the most of the piles of classic Croat, Serb and Bosnian dishes that are carried to your
table. If nothing less expect lots of different animals cooked
and grilled in every way imaginable; if you’re vegetarian,
scarper. The garden is country cottage in its style, and a
must visit in warmer months. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (1844zł). AESTX
Smoking or non-smoking
Entering a bar or restaurant can be a risky business these
days for both smokers looking to enjoy their habit and for
non-smokers who wish to enjoy their meal without running
the risk of cancerous infections. This is particularly true of
Poland where you face a number of issues. Many places
will claim to have non-smoking sections but the size of
many of these places, notably in Krakow, the passion for
nicotine which still exists here and the plain poor segregation make these completely useless. To confuse matters
some businesses are also adopting complete bans on
smoking ahead of expected legislation already in place
in other parts of the new EU such as Latvia. In order to
clarify this we have adopted a new set of definitions and
symbols,which are included at the end of each review, as
regards smoking
G
This restaurant or bar has a complete ban on
smoking on the premises
X This restaurant or bar has a smoking section on
the premises
If we print neither symbol then the old rules apply in that
smoking is permitted on the premises.
32
RESTAURANTS
British
London Steak House F-3, ul. Krucza 51, tel. 022 827
00 20, www.londonsteakhouse.pl. A dark British themed
restaurant with a red phone box outside, and a coat check
attendant who looms with menace at the front desk. There’s
gimmicks aplenty, from a mannequin of a London copper, to a
black cab outside, but it’s the food that maketh a restaurant.
Steaks are their forte, though you’d never guess, and the
British breakfast is memorable only in the fact it will leave
you feeling slightly uncomfortable afterwards. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00. (33-69zł). TABXSW
Chinese
Cesarski Pałac B-2, ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 022 827
97 07, www.cesarski-palac.com.pl. A clean cream décor
awaits after a dramtic entrance featuring water fountains and
a cacophony of red colours. Expect all the usual suspects on
the menu, as well as something enigmatically described as
‘pork knuckle’ in the chairman’s style’ – made according to
Mao Tse Tung’s favourite recipe. High standards, and service
that warrants extra praise. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30
- 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (34-57zł). TAUXS
Hong Kong House E-4, ul. Filtrowa 70, tel. 022 658
00 68, www.hongkonghouse.com.pl. A popular eatery
with pastel colour schemes and a range of baffling sounding
dishes: duck for real hero and old Chinese style guts being a
couple of examples. Interesting. The more standard dishes
are consistently good. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30
- 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (24-65zł). TAUXSW
Red Orange A-3, ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 022 890 98
25, www.redorange.com.pl. A very decent Chinese effort
RESTAURANTS
on the doorstep of three top flight hotels. A soothing, casual
interior comes with little of the clutter and trumpery found
in other restaurants of its genre, while the revamped menu
is a vast collection of everything ever served in a Chinese
restaurant, including ostrich in oyster sauce and duck in plum
sauce. Dishes are delivered to the centre of the table, allowing
diners to dive in and taste each others meals. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00. (24-42zł). ASTUWX
The Oriental G-3, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Plaza), tel. 022
450 67 05, www.sheraton.com.pl. Exquisite dishes at
premium prices. The menu covers every kitchen from Japan to
Singapore, with the seafood earning particularly high scores.
Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00; Sat 18:00 - 23:00;
Sun 12:00 - 16:00. (69-135zł). TAUXSW
Wook B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 022 630 74
74. Decent, if nothing-special, Chinese inside a red and black
interior reminiscent of a Las Vegas cocktail bar. The menu
features a range of predictable Chinese dishes, a busy open
kitchen, funky bar and several well-dressed students taking
the orders. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (4-6zł). GSUW
European
Bistro de Paris B-2, pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 022 826 01
07, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com. The theatre quarter has emerged as the place to be seen, and this top notch
establishment cements the upcoming status of the area. This
is an excellent dining room that mixes style with substance.
The food, prepared in full view of pedestrian traffic on Moliera,
is a modern take on classic dishes like duck and veal, while the
interior is decorated in a foppish style with dramatic drapes
and bottles of wine sitting on the drawers. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00. Closed Sun. (57-97zł). ABTX
Brasserie D-7, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Courtyard by
Marriott hotel), tel. 022 650 01 74, www.courtyard.
com/wawcy. Head Chef Edward Suchenek has come up
with a humdinger of a menu. Start with herring in apple, before
moving onto mains like veal chops or the rack of lamb. If your
pleasures are more modest then you’ll find standard dishes
like burgers and pasta as well. One word of warning, the portions are enormous so don’t snack before hand. QOpen
06:00 - 22:30. (39-96zł). TAUXSW
Café Design B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 11,
tel. 022 828 57 03. Extreme prices (mineral water - 16zł)
reflect the location overlooking the posh Bristol Hotel.
Smooth lines and gleaming mahogany generate a casually
affluent atmosphere and the windows are big enough to allow pedestrian traffic to stare at you. The food - rolled veal,
stewed rabbit - is beautifully presented, but could be vastly
improved on. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30.
(39-79zł). ABSTW
City Zen C-3, ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 022 211 31 91, www.
cityzen.pl. A glass fronted urban space with steel grey walls
that come complimented with modern furnishings and paper
lanterns hanging from the ceiling. The small menu touts
divine renditions of New Zealand lamb, mussels and well
presented lighter bites. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (18-56zł).
AUBXSW
Czaji C-4, Plac Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 022 584 71 01,
www.strefagourmet.pl. Tucked between the Beluga and
Embassy venues this is an ornate dining space with light
colours, starched linens and an atmosphere that reminds
of Versailles. The food is modern Polish and European, with
many of recipes made using products found in the Embassy
delicatessen next door. Very much a place for high society to
congregate and already proving a popular spot for afternoon
drinks, as well as morning breakfasts, served from seven.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (34-79zł). ASTX
Dekanta F-4, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, tel. 022 622
45 94, www.dekanta.pl. The uncluttered interior has
shades of the Austro-Hapsburg era with its vaulted ceilings,
arched windows and staff dressed as promiscuous looking
maidens. Flagstone flooring and a bar with wooden casks
mounted behind it complete your immersion into days gone
by, and the menu is a collection of generous meaty meals
like stroganoff and schnitzel.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00
- 01:00, Sat 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (22-56zł).
TAUEXS
Der Elefant A-2, pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 022 624 79 05.
A real old-timer and the profusion of top dining the city now
boasts mean Der Elefant is often overlooked. You won’t find
gourmet surprises, but the menu reveals all manner of grilled
treats that remind of home cooking, washed down with big
steins of beer. The interior consists of a rattan furnished
conservatory and a pub style back room with a bar and a blue
elephants head dangling dangerously from the wall. Not bad
at all. QOpen 10:30 - 01:30, Fri 10:30 - 02:00, Sat 11:30
- 02:00, Sun 12:30 - 01:30. (19-39zł). TAGS
Jazz Hotl B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 022
826 74 66. A beautifully designed dining room occupying a
part of the former Europejski Hotel. Cream coloured sofas and
seats are placed inside a room coloured with soft green and
beige shades, evoking an atmosphere that high-society would
love. Crowd pleasing jazz performances at the weekend, and
a modern menu that is equally pleasing throughout the rest
of the week: try the veal escallops. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(26-56zł). TAUEBXSW
April - May 2007
33
34
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Lost Warsaw
Having been battered, bullied, burned and bombed
so many times in the past it’s perhaps surprising that
possibly the grandest structure that ever stood in
Warsaw was actually torn down by the locals, no less
than 14 years after it was completed. Commissioned
by the Governor General of Poland, Joseph Vladimirovich
Gourko, work commenced on St Alexander Nevsky
Cathedral in 1893 and continued until 1914. Earmarked
to serve as place of worship for Warsaw’s ruling Russian
community the building was the work of the architect
Leontij Benois, a professor in The Tsarist Academy of
Fine Arts in St Petersburg. The site, on what is today
pl. Piłsudskiego was not chosen by accident; in 1840
the same patch of land was occupied by an obelisk
commemorating Polish generals who had collaborated
with the Russians during the 1830 November Uprising.
It was financed by huge taxes levied by the insufferable
Gourko, as well as a collection of funds ordered by Tsar
Alexaner III, though Russia’s looming economic crisis
meant that construction took 18 years. The results
though were staggering. Consisting of five gold plated
domes, and a 70 metre bell tower (then the tallest building
in Warsaw), the cathedral proved even more dazzling on
the inside. Raising comparisons to St Mark’s in Venice,
copper and oak main doors led to an interior dripping
with oil paintings and icons. Sixteen mosaic panels were
designed by Viktor asnetsov, and the building was heavily
adorned with precious stones. The cathedral operated as
a Russian shrine until 1915 when Warsaw was captured
by German forces. The next three years saw it function
as a German military church, though the moment Poland
gained independence plans were floated to demolish this
symbol of Russian hegemony.
The debate on what to do with it reigned for years, with
arguments including that the building had no artistic
value, that the square needed to be freed up for military
parades and that the foundations were already sinking.
Finally in 1922 the tower was taken down, and between
1924-1926 some 15,000 detonations were set off to
rid Warsaw of the cathedral. Not one to miss a mark,
the Warsaw magistrate sold public bonds so as to allow
every Pole the chance to take part in the iconoclasm.
The resulting rubble was used to strengthen the banks
of the Wisła and the rescued Finnish granite put to effect
in many Warsaw churches. Of the surviving decorations
a few of the mosaics can now be viewed at the St Mary
Magdalene Church in Praga (one of only two Warsaw
orthodox churches to survive the 20s), pulpit and altar
pieces in the St Peter and Paul Church in Pyry and icons in
the Pokrovy Orthodox Church in Baranowicze, Belarus.
Malinowa
C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Le Royal
Meridien Bristol), tel. 022 551 10 00, www.warsaw.
lemeridien.com. One of the most elegant dining rooms in
Poland, and deemed worth of an entry in the Michelin Guide.
Faultless gourmet dining inside the swish confines of the
Bristol Hotel. Definitely impressive, with a reputation for its
seafood. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (26105zł). AESTUWX
Marconi
C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Le Royal
Meridien Bristol), tel. 022 551 18 32, www.warsaw.
lemeridien.com. More informal than the Malinowa restaurant
right next door, this place is still a class ahead of the others.
Dishes encompass a variety of influences and run from New
York steak to butterfly marinated chicken breast with chilli and
lemon. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (69-115zł).
ABSTUX
NEW
Mezza E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Warsaw Hotel),
tel. 022 356 55 76, www.warsaw.hilton.com. The
Hilton’s showpiece restaurant, and definitely a place to
impress someone important. This is a vast hotel with a
convention centre to match, but Meza’s designers have been
clever enough to incorporate lots of smart wooden pillars and
walls to break up this smart space. A glass wall separates it
from the rest of the hotel, affording diners the chance to watch
the comings and goings inside Warsaw’s latest five star. The
menu meanwhile deserves attention of its own. Created by
Knud Bundgaard it presents high end European and Polish
choices such as wild boar sausages cooked in onion gravy.
QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. (38-98zł). TAUXSW
Papu F-4, al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 022 856
77 88, www.papucafe.pl. A newish venture from the team
behind Zielnik, and equally lauded. The interior is an upmarket
collection of palms, flowers and sconces, while the menu
comprises of showcase European food prepared with a sense
of flair, including tuna steak seared at your table. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. (29-69zł). ABISTWX
Podwale - Kompania Piwna B-1, ul. Podwale 25,
tel. 022 635 63 14. Enter via a mock Bavarian courtyard
to discover chambers filled with benches and the sounds
of oompah music – sometimes live, sometimes too loud.
The portions are obscene, and arrive on wooden boards
or in steel pans, adding to the atmosphere of beer hall
revelry. Expect plenty of cabbage, and packed tables
throughout the day. The best value in old town, and well
wor th stopping by if you’re following the tourist trail.
Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (21-49zł).
TJAUEBXS
Poezja C-4, ul. Książęca 6, tel. 022 622 67 62. A welldesigned, urbane eatery in the same spot once occupied by
Rubikon. The chef remains the same, which is good news for
foodies. Initial staffing problems appear to have been dealt
with and this restaurant looks like it can look forward to a
bright future. The menu is modern European and on the whole
highly recommended, though as in most Polish restaurants,
be wary of the steak; no matter how you want it cooked expect it to look like it was butchered minutes earlier. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. (19-90zł). ASTW
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Villa Foksal C-3, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 022 827 87 16.
With the atmosphere of a private residence Villa Foksal has
a secluded air, easy colour schemes and slick interior that
make it a prime pick for the cocktail crowd. The inventive
menu is modern European, and although not disappointing
the end results lack the magic achieved by numerous nearby
eateries. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.
(26-69zł). AIBX
You & Me C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 022 420 34 34.
A long, glowing bar is lined end-to-end with spirits, and the
drinkers that come here are happy to acknowledge the skill of
the bar staff. Funk tunes boom under cavernous ceilings, and
the modern, chic design appeals to a pre-club crowd. A huge
space, but already proving extremely popular. By day a menu
that involves dishes like crispy chicken sirloins feeds business
bods from the neighbouring offices. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (25-60zł). AESTWX
French
Absynt A-4, ul. Wspólna 35, tel. 022 621 18 81. A
favourite with the suits and fashionista, the interior proves a
svelte backdrop to one of our favourite eateries in town. On
the menu, cultured nouvelle cuisine and an impressive wine
list. First date dining at its best, though we’re hearing rumours
that dining here is not the pleasure it once was. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (40-75zł). ASTUX
Brasserie Stanislas A-3, al. Jana Pawła II 22 (Mercure
Hotel), tel. 022 528 03 60. A downtown restaurant with a
chic, open interior that appeals to those who do their business
and their pleasure in the area. Stewed dishes and venison
have been introduced to the revamped menu which features
an interesting mix of French and Polish cuisine. Also home to
what is recognized as one of the best steak tartares around.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (34-95zł). ASTUWX
La Rotisserie B-1, ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Regina hotel),
tel. 022 531 60 70, www.leregina.com. An intimate
restaurant with vaulted ceilings and calming cream and
caramel colour schemes. Occupying a part of the boutique
hotel Le Regina this is a superb indulgence if you’re looking
to make an impression on someone special. Head chef Paweł
Oszczyk isn’t afraid to experiment, and he’s created a menu
that blends the best of Polish and French cooking. Try the
pork shank braised in beer, or for dessert strawberry soup
with mint and black pepper. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00
- 23:00; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 23:00. (70-130zł).
TAUGBW
Prowansja G-4, ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 022 621 42 58,
www.prowansja.pl. The interior is a wrought iron battlefield
punctuated with extras that could have been stolen from
Versailles. Block out the surroundings and you’ll be rewarded
with high mark cooking. Our stewed rabbit in Dijon mustard
was divine, while one reader claims their sole as ‘the best
in Warsaw’. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (3259zł). TAEBXS
Fusion
Fusion E-2, al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 022 450 86 31.
Beautifully presented food in a modern though frequently
empty interior. The menu is tiny and largely made up of
experimental fish dishes, but the results are definitely worth
the visit. The halibut comes lightly battered, complemented
with a sprinkling of tabouleh salad and vegetable tempura. Q
Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:30; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 10:30,
12:00 - 22:30. (30-139zł). TAUEXS
April - May 2007
35
36
RESTAURANTS
KOM B-3, ul. Zielna 37a, tel. 022 338 63 53. An impressive space worthy of the praise that’s been heaped on it. Formerly a telephone exchange, the building is pre-war restored
with authentic reclaimed period originals – the toilet floor is
from Berlin, while the basement features telephone cables
which apparently relayed secret discussions between Churchill
and Stalin. The menu - recently updated, thankfully simplified
- features food from across the world, and it’s cracking stuff;
Tiger Prawns with mango, Indian bene and Israeli chutney. Of
note is the drinks menu, which includes a staggering choice
of whisky. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 00:30, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (35-85zł). TAEBXSW
Kwai B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 64, tel. 022 621 21
81, www.kwai.pl. A great space with sunny views of
Marzałkowska, and an open, airy atmosphere accentuated
by the choice of simple white and brown colours. Oriental
keepsakes handpicked from designer stores create enough
visual diversions to keep the interiors alive, while Warsaw’s
best photograph - three Asian police goons - keeps a vigilant eye on diners. More often than not guests will be met
by the two South Korean sisters behind this venture, and
they’ll guide you through a menu that combines the very
best of Korea and Thailand. If they’re not on hand with their
own personal recommendations we suggest opting for the
Tan Ori - duck breast served in ginger and orange sauce.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 22:30. (30-76zł).
TABXS
Moonsfera ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Polish Olympic Association building), tel. 022 560 37 33, www.moonsfera.
pl. A magnificent rooftop venue whose curved glass windows
allow views of nighttime Warsaw as she glitters below. Split
across various sections, including a blissfully luxurious lounge,
this chic venue offers a range of international fusion with dishes
RESTAURANTS
that include duck glazed with ginger and caramel, served on
plum puree. Finish off with cocktails at the blond wood bar.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (41-63zł). AGSTUW
Orchidea
B-3, ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 022 827 34 36, www.restauracjaorchidea.pl. A profusion of plants, weird lamps and
decorations apparently imported from Morocco generate an
exotic atmosphere, and the chef does the rest of the legwork
cooking up a range of Thai-influenced fusion dishes. A couple
of dishes to keep your eyes peeled for: duck in cherry sauce,
and the fish soup with coconut milk. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (21-38zł). ABSTX
Papaya
C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. 022 826 11 99, www.papaya.
waw.pl. An ultra clinical stark white interior is accentuated
by the occasional violet dash; this must be what Buck Rogers’
latest spaceship would look like. From an open kitchen the
chefs display their full repertoire, showing off every trick in the
book as they create dishes like steamed bass in banana leaf,
char grilled jumbo prawns and sushi sets. One of the best
meals in Warsaw and highly recommended. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00. (16-250zł). ABSTWX
Sense
C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 022 826 65 70, www.sensecafe.com. One of the success stories of modern Warsaw,
and one of the reasons why fusion food became so big in this
city. Sense just keep getting it right with first class service and
an experimental, flirty sounding menu that continues to push
boundaries. Choose from dishes like tempura fish and chips and
Madame Curie’s curry inside a lounge like dining area that throbs
with the cigarette slim. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 12:00. (35-56zł). ABSTX
German
Adler C-4, ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 022 628 73 84,
www.adlerrestauracja.pl. Huge helpings of sausage and
schnitzel served by girls dressed as Heidi. A favourite with
an older corporate crowd, it’s a tight, rotund space packed
cluttered with pots, pans and beer mugs. But any hopes of
alcoholic misadventure are tempered by the serious business
types who choose to do their corporate feeding here. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (37-59zł). AST
Greek
Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 022 672 05 25, www.kregliccy.pl. Not bad, but with it’s Praga location this is quite literally a bridge too far for many. The background of whitewashed
walls and suchlike provides pleasant escapist value and the
menu of octopus, moussaka and lamb rarely disappoints.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (29-59zł). AEISTUX
Healthy Eating
Biosfeera F-6, al. Niepoległości 80 (enter from ul. Odyńca),
tel. 022 898 01 55. An ultra-funky interior full of hanging canvas
lamps, orange dashes and shining wood finishes generates the
hip atmosphere normally lacking in Polish vegetarian haunts. The
tabolleuh salad is a fantastic way to prime yourself for the meat-
Full contents online:
less main courses that come with names like Szpinakolada and
Tortilla Kama Sutra. Freshly squeezed juices and fruit cocktails
come as refreshment, and expect the thousand-yard stare if you
ask for a beer and an ashtray. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (18-29zł).
AB6STUWG
Greenway C-4, ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 022 621 64 47, www.
greenway.pl. Packed at all hours. The dishes are not inspirational,
and frequently resemble plates of mashed beetroot, but this
canteen style affair offers healthy decent fare at prices that cannot
be faulted. A healthier more pleasant step up from the milk bar
experience, this is the new face of Polish budget dining. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (10-12zł). AGBS
Sadhu Cafe E-1, ul. Wałowa 3, tel. 022 635 81 39, www.
sadhucafe.pl. Formerly a boiler plant, this basement restaurant
offers apparently healthy eating inside a soothing wooden interior
sparingly decorated with Indian tablecloths. On first sight the menu
reads like code, with dishes named ‘Raga in the Key of Mint’ (curried vegetables) and ‘Mumbai Mamma’ (mushrooms and pasta in
curry) - what’s wrong with straight English? QOpen 16:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (9-40zł). AEGIST
Hungarian
Borpince B-3/4, ul. Zgoda 1, tel. 022 828 22 44, www.
borpince.pl. Austrian-Hungarian cuisine has landed in Warsaw
and Borpince proves a smashing background to enjoy big portions at small prices. Good trout, as well as the signature Hungarian dish: goulash. Keep your eye out for their Brunch Buffet each
Saturday and Sunday (12:00-16:00). If your pleasures are more
liquid then you’ll be pleased to know they are primarily a wine bar,
as the stack of bottles on the shelf-space affirms. We counted
over 58 on their list, and are assured there are more lurking
around. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (12-62zł). TAXS
April - May 2007
37
38
RESTAURANTS
Saski
One piece of lost Warsaw is set to rise again is the Saski
Palace, formerly located in the grounds of Saski Park
(B-2). Originally the residence of the Morsztyn family
the building was purchased by King Augustus II and
substantially enlarged and used by both him and his
successor, Augustus III. Off-topic, but nevertheless worth
airing, amateur historians will delight in learning that
Augustus II sired 12 children by different women, while
his successor managed to match the number, only this
time staying loyal to his wife in the process.
Back on track, when Augustus III passed away (shagged
out most likely) the building fell into disuse before being
rented out for accommodation. Between 1806-1816 the
Prussians established Warsaw Lyceum on the premises,
and conflicting evidence suggests that Chopin either
lived there for a time, or that his father taught French in
one of the outbuildings. Extensively remodelled in 1842
the Palace finally assumed its best known shape in
1925 when the Tomb of the Unknown soldier was added
to the series of colonnades used to link the two wings
together. Serving as the seat of the Polish General Staff
after WWI it was here that the German Enigma Code
was first cracked by local science boffins. WWII signaled
the end of the Palace and it was flattened by retreating
Nazi troops, with only the Tomb of the Unknown soldier
surviving the blasts.
But the story continues. In a rare act of foresight the city
of Warsaw has decided to cover the 201 million złoty
cost of rebuilding Saski Palace. Budimex Dromex have
been awarded the tender to undertake the work and
the façade, thanks to blueprints made available by the
Central Military Archive, will look just like it did in 1939. It’s
not known what will occupy the space, with ideas ranging
from a Museum of Polish History to an institute dedicated
to the thoughts of Pope John Paul II. Completion is set for
2010, though so far building work has not entirely gone
to plan. Although sappers failed to find any undetonated
devices, builders have since come across over 10,000
rare archaeological finds including baroque sculptures,
secret tunnels, ancient wells, German helmets and wine
glasses bearing August III’s monogram. The one problem
being that no provision was made for discoveries of this
scale, meaning that many of the treasures recovered
have since corroded after being incorrectly stored.
THE BEST INDIAN RESTAURANT IN POLAND
Indian
India Curry C-4, ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 022 438 93 50,
www.indiacurry.pl. The murgh makhani, described on the
menu as ‘barbecued chicken tossed in creamy tomato gravy’,
is outstanding, and perfectly paired by a glass of ginger lemon
juice. The rest of the menu features meats and vegetarian
dishes from across India with firepower ranging from mild to
blistering. A spacious interior comes decorated with a fountain and pictures of mythical Indian figures. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00. (28-40zł). TAUXS
Maharaja G-4, ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 022
TANDOOR PALACE
THE UNDISPUTED
BEST INDIAN RESTAURANT IN WARSAW
SERVING POLAND’S BEST CURRY
621 13 92, www.maharaja.com.pl. Frequented by those
who don’t know that better curry can be found right round
the corner at the Tandoor Palace. Climb to the top floor via
a shabby staircase and you’ll be met with a dowdy interior
painted in faded pink shades. Not dissimilar from a student
quarter Brit curryhouse, with curries that will fill but little more.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (20-50zł). ASTX
Namaste India C-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 022
357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. Serving as a lifeline
for those expats who find themselves chained to the office
desk Namaste deliver divine Indian dishes the length and
breadth of Warsaw. If you prefer to eat on their own patch
then you’ll be surprised to learn that this masterpiece is
not even a proper restaurant, rather a pokey Indian grocery
store with two flimsy tables set aside for diners. Out in the
back the pungent aroma of thick spices serves as a teaser
to what transpires to be some of the finest ethnic food in
Warsaw. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (1220zł). GBS
Tandoor Palace G-4, ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel.
022 825 23 75, www.tandoor.com.pl. The stamping
ground of the Warsaw Curry Club, and as the accolades that
line the stairs suggest, this is still one of top curries you’ll find
in Central Europe. The chicken tikka butter masala deserves
praise of its own, though if you’re looking for something to
liven the long winter evenings then opt for the Singaporean
sizzlers. Charanjit Walia, raconteur and proprietor, can
frequently be found walking between the tables, trading
jokes with the Palace’s customers. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30.
(16-70zł). TAS
Indonesian
Galeria Bali Buddha Club B-3, ul. Jasna 22, tel. 022
828 67 71, www.galeriabali.pl. Buddha Club brings Bali
to your doorstep with a stunning incense-filled interior. Cast
iron statuettes of Indonesian icons stand posed in prayer,
the exotic theme complimented by palms bursting from hollowed tree trunks. The menu therefore really ruins the show
with beautifully exotic dishes tempered right down to please
conservative local tastebuds. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (25470zł). TAXS
International
THE WINNER OF THE 28TH INTERNATIONAL AWARD FOR THE TOURIST,
HOTEL AND CATERING INDUSTRY (MADRID, JANUARY 2003)
AVAILABLE FOR OUTSIDE CATERING, PRIVATE PARTIES,
BANQUETS AND RECEPTIONS.
HOME TO THE CURRY CLUB OF WARSAW
TAKE AWAY AVAILABLE
UL. MARSZAŁKOWSKA 21/25, WARSAW
TEL. 022 825 23 75, WWW.TANDOOR.COM.PL, TANDOOR@TANDOOR.COM.PL
WE ALSO OFFER A SPECIAL PACKAGE FOR VISITORS TO WARSAW. THIS INCLUDES:
99 Restaurant E-2, al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 022
Full contents online:
620 19 99, www.restaurant99.com. A sunny Californian-style bistro which has been high on the expat list
of dining favourites since the dinosaur age. The service
is superb, honed by years of dealing with demanding
foreigners dressed in collars and cufflinks. The menu is
still pretty strong; big, well-designed servings of New
Zealand lamb, steak, king prawns and other premium
dishes. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30.
(53-73zł). TAUES
IN-HOUSE MEALS
TAKE AWAY
FREE TRANSPORT TO THE RESTAURANT FROM
YOUR HOTEL (BOOK THROUGH YOUR HOTEL
RECEPTION OR CONCIERGE)
FAST AND FREE DELIVERY TO ANY WARSAW
HOTEL (BETWEEN 17:00 AND 22:30)
10% DISCOUNT FROM MENU PRICES
(UPON PRESENTATION OF YOUR
DOOR KEY)
5% DISCOUNT ON TAKE AWAY
ORDERS
40
RESTAURANTS
Atrio A-3, al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 022 653 96 00, www.
atrio.waw.pl. We’re not in the habit of dishing out awards, but
if we were this would scoop the best newcomer gong. The veal
simmered in Canadian maple syrup and served with bison
grass sauce was our favourite meal of 2006, and the menu
here bursts with similar modern international inventions. White/
black colours and large windows lend a chic, modern aesthetic
to Atrio, while the black clad service has been expertly schooled
in their job. Positioned between some of Warsaw’s best hotels,
the future of this restaurant looks assured. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00. Closed Sun. (24-69zł). AUXS
Bazaar B-3, ul. Jasna 14/16a, tel. 022 826 85 85,
www.bazaar.com.pl. As the cutlery laid on the tables suggests, this is restaurant first and bar second. Leave your coat
at the front desk before settling into an interior with shiny
dark woods and a modern look that is juxtaposed with the
addition of touches like gilded mirrors and a huge velvet sofa.
A top-to-bottom glass frontage allows for outside views while
enjoying a menu that features lamb stewed in cinnamon bark,
and pork served in krupnik vodka. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (38-79zł). ABETUWX
Biblioteka C-3, ul. Dobra 56/66 (University of
Warsaw Library), tel. 022 552 71 95, www.hotel.
com.pl. Smooth and stylish Biblioteka has long been
considered one of the top spots in the city. The seasonal
menu includes quality options like saddle of pickled rabbit
and venison with goats cheese, both cooked and served
with competence. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
(40-80zł). ASTU
RESTAURANTS
Bierhalle
Dyspensa G-4, ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 022 629 99 89,
D-1, al. Jana Pawłą II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 022 323 68
55, www.bierhalle.pl. Warsaw’s best beer is the primary
reason to visit, but this place is no one trick pony. To call
this place a microbrewery is a little misguiding; Bierhalle
is vast, and the menu sits up on a level with many more
expensive restaurants. Portions are enormous, and aside
from hefty beer food like sausages and herring the kitchen
even manages to stretch to producing decent tortillas. A
visit is here is not to be missed. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
(17-45zł). TAUEXSW
www.restauracjadyspensa.pl. Newly redecorated though
Dyspensa has lost none of its country kitchen ambiance. In
the heart of embassyland, so a good place to eavesdrop
the hushed conversation of your ambassador. On the menu
Polish and European dishes, including a recommended grilled
duck in chanterelle sauce. Of the new features, the expanded
wine cellar is most welcome. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (4676zł). ASW
NEW
Bistr o a la Four chette B-2, ul. Krakowskie
Przedmieście 13 (Europejski Hotel), tel. 022 826 79
36, www.ukucharzy.pl. At long last Warsaw has a 24
hour eatery that doesn’t involve queuing for a kebab while
being pestered by tramps picking at festering sores. Occupying a spot in the former Europejski Hotel this venture
is the creation of the Gessler clan, and unlike their other
restaurants prices here are tag ged at 8zł across the
board. Choose from snacks like pigs trotters and herring
before tucking in at a street facing counter. Q Open
24hrs. AUBS
Boston Port
ul. Okolska 2, tel. 022 844 03 15, www.bostonport.pl. A
tiny but award-winning kitchen with an unassuming seafaring
motif and a menu that includes steaks, seafood, and lighter
bites more suited for the summer seasons. A friendly welcome
throughout the year, with a more central location just added
on ul. Żelazna 32 (A-4). QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 19:00. (15-50zł). ABGS
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Foksal 19
C-3, ul. Foksal 19, tel. 022 829 29 55, www.foksal19.
pl. Designer dishes presented in an upmarket, trendy
environment that proves the perfect way to impress dinner dates. The menu includes rare treats like Marlin steak
with couscous, or venison in cassis sauce and bison grass
vodka. Now open throughout the day, and popular for
high-powered work lunches. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri
12:00 - 03:00, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. (35-89zł).
AEXSW
Fret@Porter
B-1, ul. Freta 37, tel. 022 635 37 54. Once a beacon
of culinary invention, standards have been eclipsed and
Fret@Porter is no-more than a decent stop off while touring around the new town area. Décor remains a mix of
decadent drapes and strange artwork, and could do with
sprucing up, and the gazpacho - our favourite in Warsaw
- has disappeared from the menu. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(28-58zł). JAUEB
Grand Kredens
F-3, al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 022 629 80 08, www.
kredens.com.pl. The grand daddy of the expat dining
experience. Kredens haven’t changed in years, and still
offer a vast menu of everything from calamari to game – all
of which are cooked to the highest standard. The interior
could be a film set, with lampposts, bicycles and deep
sea divers helmets filling the spaces that aren’t occupied
by suits taking advantage of their expense accounts.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (45-95zł).
TAUIEBS
Kareta ul. Mickiewicza 23, tel. 022 839 01 45,
w w w.kar eta.pl. A n e quin e m oti f prevail s in t hi s
popular Żoliborz café; beast skins cover the benches,
and framed drawings of car thorses fill all possible wall
space. Home made honey is available and guests can
sample a truly impressive list of spring waters. But unless you like Polish stodge, you’ll probably want to be
eating your dinner elsewhere. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00.
(23-49zł). ABS
Kurt Scheller’s Restaurant
ATRIO Restaurant & Bar
an excellent place for
EVENING WINING & DINING,
business lunch
and delicious breakfast
Opening hours
8 am – 12 pm
closed on Sunday
al. Jana Pawła II 23,
tel. 022 6539600
atrio@atrio.waw.pl
www.atrio.waw.pl
only 20 meters away from The Westin,
Radisson SAS and Mercure hotels
International & Polish cuisine
F-4, ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto hotel), tel. 022 584 87 71,
www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Arguably the most talked about
chef in Poland, Kurt Scheller is the engine behind the Hotel
Rialto’s restaurant. Wonderful interpretations of Polish
and European dishes, beautiful interiors and outstanding
service. A revelation. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30. (52-120zł).
AUXWX
Latino Brasserie@ferdy’s A-3, ul. Grzybowska 24
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(Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel), tel. 022 321 88 22,
www.ferdys.com.pl. Veneered surfaces and potted shrubs
generate a prosperous atmosphere redolent of an ocean
liner. On the menu, take your pick from a list that takes its
influences from Polish and Argentinean cooking; steak platters and gaucho fries. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (45-79zł).
TAUBXSW
April - May 2007
41
42
RESTAURANTS
Lila Weneda F-3, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott
NEW
Hotel), tel. 022 630 51 76, www.marriott.com/wawpl.
Nowadays open for breakfast only, but what breakfasts.
Whether you’re a hotel guest or not Lila Weneda remains
second to none for a seriously upmarket start to the day.
QOpen 06:30 - 11:00. Open Sun 06:30 - 11:00, 12:00
- 17:00. TAUXS
The Olive G-3, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 022
Między Słowami
B-4, ul. Chmielna 30, tel. 022 826 74 68, w w w.
miedzyslowami.com.pl. A relaxed living room space with
floral sofas, crimson wallpapering and vases of flowers; a
great background if you’re looking for something a little
more alternative to modern Warsaw coffee culture. Regular
quiz nights draw the brain-boxes, and the courtyard garden
is great for evening drinks. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
08:30 - 24:00. (8-19zł). AW
Passe Partout ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 022 616 28 82,
www.passepartout.pl. One of the best places you’ll find on
Warsaw’s right bank. Passe Partout deserve all the success
they get with a bold menu that incorporates everything from
quesadillas to Japanese noodles to home-made pierogi. It’s
an ambitious attempt, but the chef knows what he’s doing.
The modern interiors feature plenty of deep, pale sofas,
though the real highlight is their back garden; an oasis of
tranquility. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (1749zł). TAUBXS
Pod Gigantami C-4, al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 022 621
30 59, www.podgigantami.pl. A new venture, though
look around the classic furnishings and you could easily
be in the thick of a 19th century period drama. Top-class,
knowledgeable service flits between the tables, which
come tucked amid a series of dining chambers decorated
with marble busts and gilt framed fittings. The menu is typically high-end with examples being deer or duck served in
lemon and honey. You won’t find yourself with much in the
way of small change, but this is set to become one of the
elite dining experiences in the city. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(54-68zł). AESTX
Qchnia Artystyczna G-4, al. Ujazdowskie 6 (Zamek
Ujazdowski), tel. 022 625 76 27, www.qchnia.pl. A
castle location, superb parkland views and a minimalist
interior which uses bits and pieces of abstract art will be
your reason for turning up. The experimental menu can
disappoint on occasions. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (27-52zł).
ABSTX
Rubikon ul. Wróbla 3/5, tel. 022 847 66 55, www.
rubikon.waw.pl. Warsaw foodies will be familiar with Rubikon
in their previous incarnation as a side street eatery just off
pl. Trzech Krzyży. The team have relocated across town, now
plying their trade inside a restored pre-war villa tastefully fitted
with cream tones and dark woods. The menu is as good as
we remember, with dishes like rabbit or duck in honey and
lemon sauce prepared with flair. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(46-64zł). ABITX
Studio Buffo
G-3, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 022 626 89 07, www.
studiobuffo.com.pl/restauracja. Once a culinary pace-setter, the explosion of Warsaw’s fine dining scene sees Buffo
plunge way down the rankings. Popular for clandestine business meetings the wood heavy interior has a contemproary
Swedish aesthetic, though the menu – modern Polish/European – is not as good as one expects for this area of town.
QOpen 09:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:30 - 23:00. (18-55zł).
ABESTUW
450 67 06, www.sheraton.com.pl. Modern Mediterranean cuisine served in a curvy glass room attached to
the Sheraton. On the menu expect the freshest continental
recipes, as well as a page set aside for Polish food. Q
Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00; Fri 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00
- 22:00; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:00. (50-120zł).
AERSTUW
U Szwejka F-4, pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 022 339 17 10,
www.uszwejka.pl. We love it. Foodies will run for the hills;
this is brash, basic beer food, namely big platters of meat
served with potatoes and cabbage. It won’t win gastro prizes,
but it will keep the cold at bay, and the interior of light woods
and drinking memorabilia serves as a pleasant background to
defrost inside in. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00,
Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (17-39zł). AESTX
Zadra A-2, ul. gen. Wł. Andersa 29, tel. 022 831 96
68, www.restauracjazadra.pl. Unable to accommodate
all the paintings collected over the years the owners have
stored their surplus in Zadra, a restaurant and gallery where
everything from the cutlery to the wardrobes has a price. It’s
a concept that works well and the theatrical interiors are ideal
for highbrow dinners. Those who value their privacy will appreciate the VIP room that is soon to be unveiled, complete with
its own private entrance for the times you wish to exit without
alerting the attentions of the waiting paparazzi. The menu is
suitably high-end and features dishes like skewered shrimps
served in chili sauce, and lamb chops in cranberry sauce.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (20-50zł). AESTUWX
Italian
Arsenał A-2, ul. Długa 52 (enter from ul. Andersa), tel.
022 635 83 77. One of the largest menus you’ll ever find
inside a smart wooden interior. Authentic recipes are cooked
using ingredients imported from Italy, with our recommendation being the chicken in pomegranate sauce – delicious. At
weekends an indoor play area make it a favourite with couples
with kids, while during the week expect a steady crowd of
business sorts taking hushed lunches over a glass of wine.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (20-70zł). ASTUX
Bacio F-3, ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 022 626 83 03, www.
bacio.pl. Share space with romancing couples and business
types clinching deals inside a froufrou interior decorated with
vines and cherubs. On the menu a mix of Polish and Italian
dishes, including a divine pepper steak. QOpen 12:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (25-87zł). AST
Bacio Di Angelo G-3, ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 022 622 44
54, www.bacio.pl. A great place to indulge someone
special. A pet project from the same team behind Bacio this
gastronomic standout is what happens when cupid meets
cooking. A beautiful interior of flowery tablecloths and wooden
furniture generates the perfect atmosphere for a romantic
rendezvous, and the dishes come sent straight from the
heavens. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
(25-65zł). AIST
Balgera G-5, ul. Sandomierska 13 (entrance from ul.
Rejtana 14), tel. 022 849 56 74, www.balgera.pl. One
of Warsaw’s leading restaurants, with a committed fanbase
proclaiming this as the number one Italian spot in the city.
Stylishly uncluttered, Balgera combines clean design with five
star cooking that comes courtesy of imported chefs. Northern
Italian food at its best, and the panna cotta makes for a terrific
dessert. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (30-100zł). AIS
GREAT ITALIAN DISHES
Warm and elegant atmosphere
Warsaw, 14 Reytana St., +48 22 849 56 74
www.balgera.pl
44
RESTAURANTS
Sunday Brunch
Sunday brunch is not just a typically expat excuse to hit
the wine, but also a great way of eating well and enjoying
good times while the kids run around in the background.
Most places will have qualified child minders. Note that
prices and details do change as hotels and venues try
different promotions.
Blue Cactus
From 12:00 – 15:00. 72zł for adults, 10zł for those under
12. Tex Mex cuisine, but no free alcohol.
Hyatt Hotel’s Venti Tre restaurant
From 12:00 – 16:00. 135zł per person, (68zł for those
between six and twelve, free for those under six). Hot
and cold meals, plus sushi, as well as wine, beer and soft
drinks. Kids section comes with TV, toys and a separate
menu of pizza, fries and the like.
Hard Rock Café
Will be launching brunch in mid April. Each Saturday and
Sunday 12:00 – 16:00, no price details at press time.
Hilton’s Meza
Launching Sunday Brunch from May 1. From 12:30
– 16:00, 146zł per person. Children under 10 free.
Included in the price is beer, white and red wine, and a
kids corner equipped with games, Playstation, babysitter
and special menu.
InterContinental’s Downtown Restaurant
From 12:30 – 16:00 135 złoty wins you access to the
buffet bar and beer and wine. Sushi bar, Mexican cuisine
and live music. Half price for kids between the ages 6-12,
and free for those under six. The kids corner features a
child carer, and special menu.
Le Royal Meridien Bristol’s Marconi restaurant
From 12:30 – 16:30. 145zł (half price for children, kids
under six free) gets as much wine as you can drink and
an international buffet including caviar and homemade
pasta. The children corner has a babysitter, toys and
games.
Hotel Marriott’s Lila Weneda restaurant
A Sunday institution. From 12:00 – 17:00 a fee of 145zł
(children from 6-14 years old half price, under six free),
gets unlimited Żywiec, white and red wine and soft
drinks. Buffet spreads include a sushi bar, salad bar,
Mexican, Italian and international food. In the kids corner
a clown keeps things lively, and the menu includes pizza,
pancakes and fish fingers.
Sheraton Hotel
From 12:00 – 16:00. One of the most popular brunch
experiences in the city. Cost is 139zł (children from 4-12
are half price, under four free), which gets you unlimited
booze and a choice of Mediterranean and Asian. In the
kids corner, a babysitter, Playstation, toys and games.
The Westin Hotel’s Fusion restaurant
From 12:00 – 16:00. 139zł, (half price for those between
5 and 12 years, free for those under four), which includes
hot and cold fusion dishes, white and red wine and
even the possibility of getting a Mongolian wok to your
table. The kids corner comes with toys, Playstation and
separate menu.
Compagnia Del Sole B-2, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11,
tel. 022 827 03 51, www.compagniadelsole.pl. The
Compagnia team have upped sticks and moved from
Żurawia to the theatre quarter, and somewhere along the
way they’ve managed to lose the crowds that made their
former location so successful. The new look Del Sole
still features a canteen style buffet selection, though the
surrounds are decidedly more upmarket. The ordering
process remains a logistical minefield, though the final
results - aided by produce direct from Italy -aren’t too bad
at all. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
(19-54zł). TABSW
Chianti C-3, ul. Foksal 17, tel. 022 828 02 22,
www.kregliccy.pl. A reliably romantic choice for a date,
though Warsaw now has far superior Italian choices.
A candle lit vaulted cellar is your setting, and it’s still
best to book a table in advance. Prices are ambitiously
marked, but you’ll leave happy enough providing someone else foots the bill. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. (23-52zł).
AERSTX
Il Sole A-3, al. Jana Pawła II 27, tel. 022 653 64
84, www.ilsole.com.pl. An interesting design featuring
blown up pictures of Italian street life, huge paper lamps
and cloth backed seating hovers on the tasteful side of
kitsch, while the menu rounds off the menu with successful
interpretations of everything that the Italian kitchen has
become famous for. We opted for pork fillet in gorgonzola
sauce and were not left disappointed. A great discovery,
with additional boxes ticked for proficient service from
attractive girls and prices that won’t have you defaulting
on your monthly rent. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (32-46zł).
TAUEBXSW
Pappa Grappa G-5, ul. Puławska 16, tel. 022 849
44 42, www.pappagrappa.pl. Behind the frosted glass
windows Pappa Grappa is Warsaw’s latest Italian adventure,
and already winning its spurs with glowing reviews in the local
press columns. A warm trattoria interior is the setting for trad
Italian meals cooked by the Sicilian chef, and there’s plenty
of nooks and corners to enjoy private dalliances with the
other half. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.
(28-69zł). ASX
Parmizzano’s B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott
hotel), tel. 022 630 50 96, www.marriott.com/wawpl.
Excellent food served in the serious, exclusive surrounds
of the Marriott. Head chef Gregorz Goleń has proved a
master of his craft, with the menu frequently changing
with the season to focus on different aspects of Italian
cooking. High-quality ingredients, a stellar wine list and
expert service combine to make this one of the elite restaurants in Warsaw. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (38-115zł).
AESTUX
Roma G-5, ul. Grottgera 2, tel. 022 841 01 33, www.
restauracjaroma.pl. Stuffed with dusty bottles and dripping candles Roma provides an intimate background for
first dates. The menu is huge, with an encyclopedic choice
of Italian standards as well as a list of grill food. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. (2565zł). ASTUX
46
RESTAURANTS
Rusticoni
RESTAURANTS
F-3, ul. Wilcza 35/41, tel. 022 622 56 54, www.rusticoni.pl. The Italian proprietor is committed to excellence
here, with ingredients and chefs imported from his native
land and staff well schooled in the art of expert service. As
night settles the dim lighting casts a romantic glow onto
this chic cream-coloured spot, and the food lures in a mixed
bag of courting couples and foreign diplomats. We started
with stuffed king prawns served with a cognac sauce, before
moving to a delicious tagliolini with crayfish. A new seafood
menu includes dorada in sea salt, a perfect precursor to
one of the best panna cottas we’ve tasted. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00. (28-60zł). ABSTWX
G-4, ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 022 621 69 73. Once
the darling of expat epicureans Venezia consists of two rooms:
one decorated in trattoria style, the other with trashy Venetian
murals; you’ll find most people prefer to do their dining in the
astro-turfed garden. The menu is vast, which always raises
concerns, and you’ll find many of Venezia’s former plaudits
taking their dinner elsewhere. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. (25-120zł). ASTUX
San Antonio
Venti Tre
B-2, ul. Senatorska 37, tel. 022 826 30 08. An oasis of
opulence tacked on the edge of Saski Park. Elegant dining
doesn’t get much better. The luxurious Venetian-style ambience is ideal for enjoying a drawn-out romantic meal while the
upscale menu includes such delicacies as grilled calamari. It’s
certainly up there alongside Warsaw’s other top-grade Italian
restaurants. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (2739zł). TAEBXS
G-5, ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 022 558 12 34, www.
warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. It’s no surprise to find such
an outstanding meal in one of Warsaw’s premier hotels. An
open plan kitchen and giant glass windows allow for a more
informal atmosphere than one would expect while the chef
never fails to deliver nothing less than top quality. It’s almost
embarrassing to order pizza in a place like this, but the woodfired oven is the source of the best pizza we’ve tried in the city
and that’s reason enough to swallow any culinary snobbism.
QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. (48-65zł). TAUXS
San Lorenzo
E-2, al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 022 652 16 16, www.sanlorenzo.pl. A swank restaurant with photos by the door check
affirming that this is where dozens of minor celebs choose
to eat dinner. By Polish standards the prices are astronomic,
though they’ll still barely make a dent in your Western expense
account. The food is pretty decent, and the chef prepares a
great pepper steak. In spite of the candles and the occasionally cheesy live music this is definitely more aimed at the
corporate diner as opposed to romancing lotharios. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (32-77zł). ABISU
Venezia
Japanese
Akashia D-1, ul. Jana Pawła II 61/204, tel. 022 636
67 67, www.akashia.pl. The Japanese dishes are superb,
though it’s the Korean menu that caught our fancy. If you’re
dining for two try the grill dishes, prepared at your table, and
perfectly washed down with a glass of Japanese mulled plum
wine. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (35-45zł).
ASTU
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Hana Sushi D-1, ul. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia Shopping
Mall), tel. 022 331 75 18, www.hanasushi.pl. Arkadia
shopping mall-stationed sushi restaurant that proves Warsaw’s
top mall is more than just a shopping trip. A modern interior
is tempered with Samurai swords, flower arrangements and
sheets of canvas hanging from the walls, and black-robed chefs
prepare everything from seafood goulash soup, to steamed
lobster to standard sushi options. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00. (21-65zł). TAUBXSW
Inaba B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 022 622 59 55,
www.inaba.com.pl. Here’s a restaurant that was around
years before sushi became a fashion statement. Japanese
owned and run everything about Inaba strives for authenticity, and this is one of only three places in town that can claim
a Japanese master chef calling the shots in the kitchen. A
pleasantly panelled interior creates a great atmosphere and
those who want more than just raw fish should take a look
at the grill dishes: try the duck in teriyaki sauce. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (20-58zł). TAEXS
Izumi F-4, ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 022
825 79 50. Warsaw’s sushi boom shows no sign of flattening
out, and with places like this opening its no surprise. A hyper
trendy background is the setting for a delightful Japanese
experience tha guarantees return visits. After years of being
overlooked Plac Zbawiciela finally feels it’s stirring into life,
and Izumi should shoulder much of the credit. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00. (29-67zł). TAGBSW
So-An F-4, ul. Koszykowa 54 (enter from ul. Lwowska),
tel. 022 630 81 00, www.so-an.pl. A well-designed space
featuring thatched ceilings, paper lanterns and chefs sporting Mr Miyagi style headbands - sometimes upside down.
Aesthetics aside So-An serves average sushi in a market
that is now seriously competitive. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(25-49zł). ASTUX
Sushi 77 E-3, ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 022 890 18 11, www.
sushi77.com. Imaginative sushi sets - try the Californian rolls
- served inside a hyper-stark metallic interior. Does Warsaw
need another sushi stop? If they’re as decent as this then
why not. Also deliver across the city. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(26-49zł). ASX
Sushi Teatr B-2, pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 022 826 47
87. Shock white colour schemes, soft lighting and a designer
atmosphere inside Warsaw’s most exclusive sushi address. In
return for a small fortune expect beautifully presented dishes
prepared by a team of master chefs. This is essential dining.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (18-100zł). AGBS
Noodle Bar A-4, ul. Żelazna 41, (enter from ul. Sienna),
tel. 022 890 20 00. No sushi, and not just noodles but a
whole host of Jap treats ranging from dumplings filled with
duck to grilled prawns in teriyaki sauce. The interior is compact and pleasantly fitted in dark Oriental woods. A decent
experience, with prices that won’t leave the bank balance
seeing stars. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (27-49zł). ASX
Tokio C-2, ul. Dobra 17, tel. 022 827 46 32. Contrary
to the belief that sushi can only be tremendously good or
tremendously bad, Tokio’s sushi actually strikes us as middleof-the-road. The pieces are medium sized, the prices moderate, and the flavours are not quite as tasty as they could be.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-98zł). AST
Piccolo Bacio C-3, ul. Hoża 58/60, (enter from ul.
Tomo C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 022 434 23 44, www.
Poznańska), tel. 022 622 66 65. A bijou dining room with
familiar service and an interesting interior featuring foliage
hanging from the ceiling and pictures of butterflies on the
walls. The menu is split between expertly prepared Japanese
and Italian cuisine, with the curry chicken pasta being a particular favourite of ours. As evening sets Piccolo becomes a
great place to woo prospective dates. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (9-69zł). ASU
tomo.pl. One of the best sushi bars in Poland, Tomo is an
attractive venue, reguarly filled with monied twenty somethings holding court around the bar and keeping an eye on
expensive motors parked outside. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(37-95zł). AEGSTUW
Republica Latina (Made In Japan) C-4, ul. Nowy
Świat 1, tel. 022 331 13 11, www.republicalatina.
pl. Flavourful sushi served inside the red glow of what was
once the cocktail bar of Republica Latina. The crab soup is
perfect to wash down the sushi sets. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(22-49zł). BSUW
Sakana B-2, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 022 826 59 58.
Warsaw’s best sushi, so some say. The food floats by on
small wooden boats while the small interior is brightened
by bamboo bi ts and bobs, hand-crafted potter y and
kimono suited staff. Frequently packed, so expect to
eat shoulder to shoulder with other sushi afficionados.
Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (8-40zł).
ABGTU
Jewish
Pod Samsonem B-1, ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 022 831 17 88.
Perpetually busy, but we’re at a loss to explain why. We’ve
yet to have a good experience here, and we’ve yet to meet
anyone who’d disagree. Prices are low, and so are standards
with sloppy service and nothing-special plates of ‘Polish with a
Jewish twist’ stodge. A complete tourist trap. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. (12-35zł). ABJSX
April - May 2007
47
48
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
Lebanese
Le Cedre H-1, al. Solidarności 61, tel. 022 670 11 66,
www.lecedre.pl. With Praga still regarded as The Final Frontier
by many foreigners it’s our duty to tell readers to make the
short trip here, and fast. A first rate choice for a taste of the
exotic Le Cedre offer an authentic menu that includes a vast
choice of mezze dishes, including a fabulous tabolleuh salad.
For something more substantial go for the shish taouk; chicken
grilled on a skewer. Hookah pipes dot the window sills, and a
belly dancer enters the frame each Friday night. A shop selling
Lebanese produce, as well as kebabs, has been added next
door. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (28-59zł). TAUXSW
Samira F-4, al. Niepodległości 213, tel. 022 825 09 61,
www.samira.pl. Half grocery store, half Lebanese restaurant.
The interiors here are shocking, what with the stone cladding and
garish green schemes, but the results on your plate fire all the
correct shots. Accessed down a ropey looking alleyway Samira
presents superb Lebanese dishes at extremely moderate
prices, making it a real discovery for bargain hunters. QOpen
10:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (15-60zł). AUGS
Light bites
Antrakt B-2, pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 022 827 64 11,
www.antraktcafe.waw.pl. A real labour of love, real effort
has gone into creating this space, and the overall effect isn’t
unlike entering a time machine. A gorgeous art deco interior
comes furnished with antique typewriters and leopard print
armchairs, and it’s a perfect atmosphere to smoke slim
cigarettes while floating away to Edith Piaf. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (15-34zł). ASU
Café 6/12 C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 022 622 53 33.
Get here early to take your place inside this cavernous legend
that served as a pioneer on what is now known as one of
the trendiest drinking zones in Warsaw. The breakfasts are
highly rated and include some of the only bagels you’ll find in
the capital, while the chilled out ambiance is matched with
soothing minimalist décor and velvety ambient sounds from
the speakers. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00,
Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (25-52zł). ABSW
Café Balgera G-4, ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 022 629 01 89,
www.balgera.pl. A good-looking, split-level endeavour selling
Italian ingredients, pastries and desserts. Quality tiramisu and
other goodies available for take away. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00,
Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (3-25zł). ABSUX
Daily Café B-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 022 829 91
57, www.dailycafe.pl. A Mercers copycat, complete with
the white colours, exceptional smoothies, board games and
spread of daily papers. Sepia prints and polished woods lend
a slick high end ambiance while an urbane crowd sip large
mugs of coffee while swapping DJ numbers in their phones.
Q Open 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00
- 23:00. BXSW
Deco Kredens C-3, ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 022 826 06
60, www.kredens.com.pl. Furnished in whimsical art deco
fashion it’s easy to lose track of time in this magnificent addition to the Kredens chain of cafés/restaurants. Crowded
with stained glass, crimson pillars and eccentric figurines you
could quite easily be in the thick of Paris’ theatre quarter. Apparently undiscovered by the foreign community, it’s a magnet
for intellectuals smoking Dunhill and wealthy middle-aged
locals reading Wprost. Excellent menu of upmarket Polish
and European food. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 24:00. (30-72zł). ABXS
Marak B-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 022 829 92 72,
www.marak.pl. A bare-bones soup kitchen with a stark
atmosphere. Limited menu, but the Thai soup and Boston
Crab soup are great and comes with bread rolls. Now open
in the train station, as well. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (10-16zł).
BGSU
Subway B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 31, tel. 022 745 53
33, www.subway.waw.pl. Proper sandwiches served in
all shapes and sizes with a variety of toppings - including
meatball baguettes. Don’t accept any imitations, ie the
sandwich shops you’ll find occupying the nearby subways.
Open into the late hours, and ideal for post-pub hunger. Also in
Galeria Mokotów. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.
(6-15zł). BGS
Tricaffe G-5, ul. Puławska 17, tel. 022 852 80 68, www.
tricaffe.com. This breezy, easy-on-the-eye café serves up
great espressos, desserts and light lunches in the same
buidling that houses offices and the Silver Screen cinema
- so no guesses who comes here. Large windows, chrome
finishes and black-clad staff add that urbane touch. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun
09:00 - 24:00. (15-25zł). ABSWX
Mediterranean
Boathouse H-3, ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 022
616 32 23, www.boathouse.pl. One of the first names out
of the hat when deciding where to go, Boathouse continues
to remain a fixed part of expat life. Winner of countless accolades, the seasonal menu features everything from your
standard pepper steaks and duck to New Zealand lamb and
chicken skewers. The sprawling floor plan is ideal for company
dinners and big occasions. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00
- 22:00. (48-130zł). ABISTW
La Cantina C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 331 67 98,
www.lacantina.com.pl. A Nowy Świat location tempts the
diners in, and sooner rather than later they realize they’ve
made a mistake entering. After a bright beginning La Cantina have dropped down the ratings and made a name for
serving barely average attempts at Mediterranean cooking.
A great shame, this is an attractive split-level space dominated by brickwork and an open grill, and could be a great
venue for informal dates. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (22-74zł).
TAUEBXS
Middle Eastern
Sheesha B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 3, tel. 022 828 25 25,
www.sheesha.pl. Already established as one of Warsaw’s
most exotic nightspots Sheesha are beginning to lure the
pre-drinks crowd on account of a strong menu bursting with
eastern promise. Kick your meal off falafel or tabolleuh, before
hitting main courses like chicken biriyani or the spicy duck. As
night marches on find Warsaw’s movers and shakers dancing
between the ottomans and hookah pipes. QOpen 16:00
- 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. (27-42zł). AEBS
Sphinx C-4, al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 022 826 07 50,
www.sphinx.pl. Considered by many Poles as the height of
sophistication, Sphinx’s nationwide chain of identikit restaurants offer cheap plates of poorly cooked kebabs and steaks
with heaps of cabbage delivered to your table by amiable men
dressed as penguins. There’s something very strange going
on here, because as queasy as the food often makes you,
you do find yourself going back for more. Somebody should
definitely look into this. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (14-35zł).
TABXS
Mongolian
Tshingis Chan B-2, ul. Senatorska 27 (basement of Cesarski Pałac), tel. 022 827 97 07, www.cesarski-palac.
com.pl. A pleasant cellar in which customers are expected to
line up with a bowl, throw together a pile of raw ingredients
and then wait around while the chefs cook up your concoctions. The results vary. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30
- 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (34-57zł). ASTUX
Nuevo Latino
Conquistador C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 826
52 80, www.conquistador.pl. An unassuming entrance
fools the passer-by into thinking this place is smaller than it
is. Think again. Enter and find a smart three level restaurant
with white shirted staff and an unmistakable air of exclusivity; perfect for the cocktail crowd. The menu delights with
exotic choices like grilled ostrich and lamb baked in banana
leaf and plum sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-79zł).
TAEBXSW
Republica Latina C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 1, tel. 022
331 13 11, www.republicalatina.pl. A huge chandelier
dangles above a stairwell which leads to an area decorated
with Persian rugs and gilt framed mirrors, generating a warm
atmosphere perfect for attempts at seduction. Start with
roasted goats cheese and salsa, before moving on to main
courses like veal stuffed with peppers or beef tenderloin
served in oyster sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (29-46zł).
BSUW
April - May 2007
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RESTAURANTS
Polish
Ale Gloria C-4, pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 022 584 70
80, www.alegloria.pl. The work of celebrity restaurateur
Magda Gessler, Ale Gloria features a surreal strawberry
theme and a series of basement rooms that are little less
than hallucinogenic; check out the white geese. The menu
is modern Polish with dishes like pink duck breast with spicy
strawberry salad or wild boar in Bombay gin and honey sauce.
A darling of the local press columns. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(54-150zł). ATU
Belvedere G-5, New Orangery in Łazienki Park (enter
from ul. Parkowa), tel. 022 841 22 50, www.belvedere.
com.pl. Dine amidst a profusion of plants inside a converted
orangery in the heart of Łazienki Park. A little formal, though
now attracting a younger crowd than previous inside an overthe-top, decadent interior. The new menu is suitably faultless
with complicated sounding Polish and European food, with
prices at the premium end of the market. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00. (47-99zł). AT
Delicja Polska F-4, ul. Koszykowa 54, tel. 022 630 88
50, www.delicjapolska.pl. Delicja Polska combines beautifully presented food in a swish setting decorated with chintz,
flowers and candles. Enjoy braised rabbit, or duck served with
apples and cranberry sauce, while aproned staff cater to your
whim and fancy. In summer sit out in the front where a small
terrace has been stuffed with flower pots and shrubbery.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (34-98zł). TAUEBXS
Dom Polski H-3, ul. Francuska 11, tel. 022 616 24 32.
Long feted as one of the great restaurants in Poland, though
first timers may wonder what the fuss is all about. Dom Polski
are no longer the culinary force they once were and the main
courses are only notable on account of their prices. Nonetheless, the atmosphere alone is worth any trouble with the bank
manager. Impeccable service scuttles around country manor
decorations, and the garden is one of the best you’ll find.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-78zł). TAEBXS
Flik G-5, ul. Puławska 43, tel. 022 849 44 34, www.
flik.com.pl. A golden oldie. Flik have been around for years
and never fail to impress with their reliable Polish menu. While
the surrounds are not the most adventurous the menu does
not fail, hence you’ll find it frequently filled with expats who
have made Mokotów their enclave. QOpen 12:30 - 23:00.
(20-79zł). TABXS
Folk Gospoda E-2, ul. Waliców 13, tel. 022 890 16
05. Boys and girls wearing peasant aprons present a menu
which runs through the basics of Polish cooking. The interior
of heavy timber and flower pots is a great background for an
informal intro to Polish feasting, and frequently resounds to
the blaze of traditional live music. Pair the pigs knuckle with
their cognac-pepper sauce and you’re onto a winner. Now
open for breakfast. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:30
- 24:00. (16-34zł). TAUEBXS
Honoratka B-2, ul. Miodowa 14, tel. 022 635 03 97,
www.honoratka.com.pl. Operating as Honoratka since
1826 this is very much a place where you breathe in the history of centuries past - Chopin used to dine here. Split into
five vaulted cellars the menu that arrives to your table reads
like a 15th century banquet. Mugs of mead go alongside
dishes like roast boar in juniper sauce, while the meal for two
is an assembly of every meat to have ever been hunted. The
garden, set in the grounds of a former castle, is the perfect
after-thought following a day exploring the nearby old town.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-39zł). TAEBXS
Chłopskie Jadło F-4, pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 022 339
17 15, www.chlopskiejadlo.pl. If you’ve visited Kraków
the chances are you’re come across Chłopskie Jadło before.
This is an exact replica of one of their many Kraków enterprises, effortlessly transplanted into the heart of Warsaw.
Jars of pickles and strings of sausages decorate an interior
stuffed with wooden chests and rusty saws. The menu is
traditional meat and potatoes fare and can be hit and miss,
and be warned, they will fleece you for extras like potatoes
and sauces. The homemade lard and bread is excellent,
though becomes distinctly less appealing with the icy service.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (15-55zł). ABSTX
Oberża Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem E-2, ul. Żelazna 68,
tel. 022 850 31 44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. It’s high time
Warsaw had a commie themed restaurant and you can’t get
much better than the Red Pig. The menus, printed on newspaper,
reveal filling Polish dishes with names attached that honour
the baddies of the past: Mao Chicken and Brezhnev koludny to
name a couple. Castro, Brezhnev and Lenin all dined here in the
past, and this resurrected brick and timber walled restaurant
fizzes with atmosphere. Pics of Soviet icons, marching anthems,
carnations and red sashes add to the time trip, but this is more
than just a novelty restaurant aimed at one-off visitors. The food
is generally excellent with some portions verging on obscene.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (13-65zł). TAUBXSW
Polskie Smaki C-3, ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. 022 826 59
67, www.polskiesmaki.pl. Upmarket Polish food served the
way it’s meant to be, at a fraction of the cost. The surroundings
are restrained, by any standards; with most Polish restaurants
going for either an OTT farmyard look, or plumping for the ‘at
home with the aristocrats’ feel, Polskie Smaki falls in between.
Well done for that alone. Come here for the wild boar, definitely a
stand out choice. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (27-35zł). ABT
Różana Restauracja Polska G-5, ul. Chocimska 7, tel.
022 848 12 25, www.restauracjatradycja.pl. A two-floor
pre-war villa full of chichi touches, flowers and crockery. Very
nice, but it attracts return custom on account of the cooking,
not the interior. Upmarket Polish food in a setting that is perfect
for that important dinner-for-two. Starters include iced black
caviar with ‘a drop of frosty vodka’, great if you’ve got the credit
card. For main try out the veal liver with onions and cherry
sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (29-76zł). ABEITX
Radio Café B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 022 625 27 84,
www.radiocafe.pl. A part of Warsaw folklore. A fiercely loyal
fanbase squeeze into Radio Cafe’s photo lined walls to smoke
heavily and enjoy a standard mix of Polish and European dishes.
It’s not progressive, but then that’s part of the appeal. QOpen
07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (18-35zł). ABSX
Restauracja Polska Przy Trakcie F-2, ul. Królewska
2, tel. 022 827 01 98, www.restauracjapolska.pl.
Another feather in the cap of the revitalized theatre quarter.
The interior is an attractive blend of lampshades, flowers and
framed pictures, and the cooking is up-to-scratch, featuring
high end offerings like goose, rabbit and cheesecake apparently made to the recipe of a mystery grandmother. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (38-65zł). ABSTUX
Restauracja Zgoda B-3, ul. Zgoda 4, tel. 022 827 99
34. An old timer that’s had a refit and a new burst of life.
Dishes like żurek soup, shashlyk and pancakes are chalked
up on the blackboard and served from behind a glass counter.
Low prices, competent cooking and a casual trattoria ambience (whitewashed walls, timber furnishings) are rewarded by
a constant stream of customers. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. (19-35zł). TAXS
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RESTAURANTS
Fast food & Delivery
Your body might be a temple, but there comes a
time when even the leanest of machines needs to
be filled with burgers, chips and calories. Fast food
culture has not escaped Poland and you’ll find several
chains of McDonald’s dotted around. The flagship
megadonald’s can be found on ul. Marszałkowska
126/134 (B-3) and is open 24hrs, as are ones on
ul. Ostrobramska 73 and ul. Radzymińska 249. In
the centre (C-4) the one on Krucza 50 opens from
07:00 - 01:00 while the McD’s in the train station
(B-4) opens from 05:30 - 02:00. Breakfast is only
served at the train station branch.
KFC have no 24hr enterprises though several branches
throughout town, including al. Solidarności 82 (B-2,
open 09:00 - 23:00), ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6
(C-3, open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun
10:00 - 22:00), ul. Piękna 28/34, (F-4, open 08:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00).
KFC also offer a home delivery service in Warsaw
though you’ll be lucky to find an English-speaker on
the other end. Try your luck by ringing 022 536 36
36. Behind the counters you should find the staff in
both KFC and McDonald’s will usually understand a
smattering of English, and if you’re desperate for their
other locations then hit their respective websites at
www.mcdonalds.pl and www.kfc.pl.
Polish style baguettes and kebabs can be found in
chains of A Petit and Oskar - you’ll see them everywhere around the train station, and central area,
though you’ll probably give them a miss after one tryout. For the best kebabs check our section dedicated
to Booze Food.
With regards to pizza be warned about the Polish tradition of lumping tomato ketchup onto the sacred pie.
The local favourite here is Telepizza and you should
check www.telepizza.pl to find the nearest location.
If you want something more upmarket then drop into
Rusticoni (F-3, ul. Wilcza 35/41) to pick up a pizza the
way it was intended to be made.
You’ll find most restuarants will deliver food to your
door, all you have to do is pay for the taxi. One outstanding service perfect for winter nights sat in front
of your TV dressed in your underwear is Room Service.
Cooperating with a range of restaurants, from Mexican
to Indian to Thai they’ll deliver to all corners of Warsaw,
and usually within an hour of ordering. Order online at
www.roomservice.pl or give them a bell on 022 651
90 03. All the Indian restaurants we list offer a home
delivery service. Tandoor Palace (022 825 23 75) offer
a loyalty card for their regulars, while Namaste (022
357 09 39) have become a lunchtime hero for office
workers around town.
A final word of warning: give the Vietnamese snack
cabins you see dotted around a wide berth. Only a
few years back a warehouse filled with dead cats and
dogs was raided by the police. Their destination?
Your plate.
RESTAURANTS
Smaki Warszawy B-4, ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 022 621
82 68, www.smakiwarszawy.pl. This location has seen
numerous bars and restaurants come and go, though Smaki
Warszawy looks like a winner right from the traps. Long live
success. You’ve got two choices: sit in the confectionary part
where the choice will overwhelm. A couple to watch for – apple
pie served with vanilla ice cream, or the meringue cake with
raspberries. Both outstanding. The restaurant area takes on
an upmarket pre-war ambiance, with handsome male waiters
serving supreme dishes like sturgeon with marinated aubergine or saddle of roe deer. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (29-75zł).
ABESTWX
Tawerna Galeon G-6, ul. Huculska 1, tel. 022 558
01 80, www.galeon.waw.pl. Another seafaring venture,
this one decked out like a Spanish galleon, complete with
fishing nets hanging off the ceiling and a model ship bursting
from behind the bar. The service is hit, not miss, while the
fried salmon in lemon sauce earns an ovation. But there’s
more to this place than seafood, and the newly-added Polish menu deserves attention of its own. Try out signature
Polski dishes like bigos and pork knuckle. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (22-58zł).
ABESTWX
Villa Nuova ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 23, tel. 022 885
Osteria F-3, ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 022 621 16 46, www.
15 02, www.villanuova.pl. Furnished with mahogany and
chandeliers, Villa Nuova represents no less than culinary
excellence. Private rooms, an impressive cellar and staff who
make you feel like a celebrity from the moment you enter
make this a perfect evening. High prices, though most seem
happy to pay them after sampling the top notch game dishes.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (38-98zł). AISTWX
osteria.pl. Formerly the top seafood choice in Warsaw, though
nowadays you may find the end results do not justify the price tags.
Nonetheless, the menu does feature fresh oysters, Spanish mussels, and some very good octopus, and the background is as good
as any to dine in; watch the African fish look on in alarm from the
safety of aquariums as their colleagues meet their end in the open
kitchen. The modern interior of bubbling portholes and illuminated
shells is popular with a well turned-out crowd. QOpen 12:00 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (49-195zł). ABSTUW
Tradycja Restauracja Polska G-5, ul. Belwederska
Zapiecek C-4, al. Jerozolimskie 28, tel. 022 826 74 84,
18a, tel. 022 840 09 01, www.restauracjatradycja.pl.
Superb Polish food prepared with flair and served by first
class staff. A discreet and engaging atmosphere inside a fully
restored villa. The fillet of pike perch comes accompanied
by a delicious leek sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (32-64zł).
AEISTX
www.zapiecek.eu. Warsaw’s pierogophiles finally have a new
home. Packed through all hours this pierogi kitchen assumes
the ‘Grandmothers country cottage’ look, with pots and pans
hanging from every shelf, and lots of hard timber touches. Much
talked about, their deliciously light dough pockets come with
all the fillings you can imagine: from cherry to mushrooms, and
there’s a street-level take away window for lunch-on-the-run. If
you haven’t eaten for a day try their pierogi challenge: eat 59 in
under 25 minutes and your meal is free. Fail and you owe them
59zł. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (15-20zł). AGST
U Fiszera A-2, pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 022 620 46 11. A
real relic from 90s Warsaw. The menu is comprised of grilled
meats and large plates of warming winter nosh, though they’ll
try and fleece you for every coin in the pocket: expect to pay
extra for chips, sauces etc. The mildly rustic interior is a sad
collection of chequered tablecloths and brass instruments,
which is a joy to behold if you’ve had your fill of New Warsaw. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 02:00. (20-46zł).
ABESTX
U Fukiera B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. 022 831
10 13, www.ufukiera.pl. The most famous restaurant in
town, and after slipping down the culinary rankings the last
year has seen Fukier return to their best. Let the guestbook
speak for itself; Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah
Ferguson have all taken up knives and forks inside this place.
The interior is a work of art, crowded with paintings and
antiques, and it’s not hard to feel part of history when dining
here. We started with a thick goualsh soup, before moving
onto Lithuanian dumplings and finishing with tiramisu and
eclairs. Indulge yourself. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (40-120zł).
JABXS
U Kucharzy B-2, ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 022 826 79
36, www.gessler.pl. Akin to dining in the kitchen of The
Savoy, the chefs work in front of the diners inside what once
played the role as the kitchen of the Europejski Hotel. It’s a
great experience with the owner flitting from table to table
while a pianist works his magic fingers in the background.
The menu is typical of high class Polish restaurants, with
lots of game and other posh meats. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(30-80zł). AETX
Portuguese
Portucale G-6, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 022 898 09 25,
www.portucale.pl. This gets the thumbs up from our
resident Portuguese epicurean, and you can’t say fairer than
that. Situated out in the no-mans land of distant Mokotów
your journey is made worthwhile on account of a superb
wine list – check their wine store, stocking some 200
brands – and a menu that is split between delicious seafood
choices and hunks of meat. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20-75zł).
ABSTWX
Seafood
Beluga C-4, Plac Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 022 584 71 01,
www.strefagourmet.pl. The interior, filled with mirrors, glass
and black finishes, will take the breath away, and must surely
stand out as one of the most extravagant décors to be found
in Poland. Pop the big question here and we guarantee the
answer will be yes. On the menu premium Japanese and Russian dishes, including oysters and hand-massaged Kobe beef.
Take advantage of the luxurious sofas in the glass-topped
foyer for an after-meal whisky. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (43178zł). ASTUX
Molo C-4, ul. Krucza 17, tel. 022 425 76 79, www.
molo.waw.pl. Pre-empt your summer coastline holiday in
this tacky fish emporium. Modelled on a Sopot seaside snack
cabin The Pier comes with a suitably crass interior of flimsy
furniture and nautical extras. Light, bright and tiny, the dishes
are pretty good with prices kept to a minimum and a lunch on
the run atmosphere prevailing. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (10--25zł). RBXS
Restauracja Rybna C-3, ul. Foksal 10, tel. 022 332
48 33, www.restauracjarybna.pl. In a city where sushi has
become the food of choice it comes as a surprise that finding a fine seafood restaurant is a trial. Rybna is one answer,
offering a wide selection of maritime suspects inside a warm
timber interior replete with a scale-model of a galleon and
fishing nets. Try the mussels served in white wine sauce.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (25-65zł). ABSTUX
Breakfast
The choice of the corporate high-flyer is naturally 99 (E-2,
al. Jana Pawła II 23), open from 08:00 to serve the likes
of pancakes, croissants and eggs. Next door the newly
opened Atrio (E-2, al. Jana Pawła II 23) serve American,
British, Polish and continental breakfasts, as well as freshly
squeezed juices to greet the day. From the same time Jazz
Bistro Espresso (F-4, ul. Piękna 20) offer a decent choice
of buns, baguettes and ciabattas. Our favourite breakfast
prize goes to Café 6/12 (C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12) for their
selection of light bites (which include bagels), though we’ve
also been hearing good words about the brekkies served in
You & Me found in the same block. Straight down the street
on pl. Trzech Krżyzy 18 (C-3) you’ll find Szpilka open from
07:00 during the week. A couple of doors down Szparka is
infinitely more fashionable, though shares two similar traits
to Szpilka; same opening hours, and the same disappointing breakfasts. Subway Sandwiches (B-4, al. Jerozolimskie
31) sell you know what from 08:00. Two coffee chains worth
a mention on account of quality fresh snacks and drinks are
Wayne’s (A-4, al. Jerozolimskie 56c, open from 07:30 during
the week) and Coffeeheaven in the train station (open from
07:30 during the week). McDonald’s open from early selling
their usual goods (see Fast Food for locations), with their
train station branch serving breakfast. If all else fails hit
one of the dozens of bakeries (piekarnia) dotted around the
centre to pick up freshly baked produce. If you can hang on
until 10:00 and 12:00 respectively then both Bradley’s
(ul. Sienna 39) and Bar Below (ul. Marszałkowska 64)
serve all-day Irish breakfasts that will leave you fed for
the rest of the day.
April - May 2007
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54
RESTAURANTS
Spanish
Casa To Tu C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 54/56, tel. 022 828
00 66, www.casatotu.pl. Once home to the glittery Tiger
Sports Bar this space is now occupied by something altogether more alluring. A warren of basement rooms come
cluttered with muskets, hams and kitchen tables, forcing an
atmosphere redolent of a Spanish coastline cottage. The
menu pleases with its selection of tapas and paellas, as well
as a selection of soups that range from gazpacho to spicy
garlic. Order a jug of sangria to go with your meal. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (14-46zł). ABSTX
Mar y Sol G-3, ul. Rozbrat 8/1, tel. 022 622 50 00,
www.mar-y-sol.com.pl. Another place that finds itself
wilting after such a positive start. By night the whitewashed
interior would be ideal for budding romantics were it not for the
average, bland attempts at Spanish cuisine. At least the price
tags are kept down to reflect this. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (17-82zł). ABRST
Valencia E-1, ul. Stawki 2 (Intraco building, 38th floor),
tel. 022 860 62 17. Once considered one of the top dining
experiences in town, Warsaw has moved on, leaving the staff
at Valencia wondering where all the customers went. The 38th
floor of Warsaw’s most humdrum skyscraper is the setting for a
tacky interior and an ambitiously priced menu. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (25-230zł). ASX
Tex-Mex
Blue Cactus G-5, ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 022 851
The Mexican C-3, ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 022 826 90 21,
www.mexican.pl. Complete with adobe coloured walls,
chirpy tequila girls plus sombreros and cactuses, The Mexican
has intimacy aplenty. The food? Could be a lot better. Staff
celebrate tips by firing pistols into the air - embarassing for
all involved. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00.
(18-39zł). ABEITX
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46 (corner
of Wilcza and Poznańska), tel. 022 621 86 22, www.
tortillafactory.pl. Here’s the one we’ve been waiting for, the
re-opening of Warsaw’s best Tex Mex restaurant. Due to open
their doors in mid-April we’ve been told to expect all the old
favourites, plus the addition of steaks, ribs and the introduction of Warsaw’s hottest salsa. As night falls this L-shaped
space historically attracts as many drinkers as it does diners,
and there’s plenty of live music in the pipeline, brain damage
cocktails guaranteed and even a selection of tables complete
with their own beer taps. This was the best Tex Mex food in
the city, and we expect that tradition to continue. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00. (23-35zł). AEXS
NEW
Warsaw Tortilla Factory A/B-4, ul. Złota 59. Warsaw’s
best burrito arrives in the city centre courtesy of the WTF
team. Occupying a spot in the Złoty Tarasy food court this is
a condensed fast food version of the Tortilla Factory complete
with blistering hot mango habanero sauce, soft and crispy
tacos and cinnamon crisps. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Thai
23 23, www.bluecactus.pl. One of Warsaw’s most popular
restaurants, so much so you may have to resort to scheming
and deceit in the quest for a table. The food is generally good
while the burritos are large enough to feed a group of orphans.
Cheerful but definitely not cheap the Blue Cactus has been
an expat magnet for several years, with a superb summer
terrace to start the evening on. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (30-70zł). TABXSW
Dziki Ryż G-5, ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 022 848 00 60.
El Popo B-2, ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 022 827 23 40. One
Maharaja Thai B-2, ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 022 635
25 01, www.maharaja.com.pl. The interior may be disappointingly drab considering the location – inside a medieval
towerhouse – but the food most certainly isn’t, with a collection of fiery typically Thai dishes. We had the red curry and our
taste buds knew about it immediately. Not gourmet dining, but
a decent stop in an area of town not known for culinary variety.
QOpen 12:30 - 23:00. (25-50zł). ABJSTX
of Warsaw’s oldest restaurant, and time has done nothing to
dent El Popo’s popularity. The atmosphere is superb, complete with serenading Mexicans, parakeets and plenty of cacti
dotted around. The food though, it must be said, is no longer
what it once was. The fajitas come at premium prices, though
lack the sizzle and the generous portions of meat needed to
make them memorable. Warsaw now has better, far better,
though El Popo’s future looks far from precarious. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (28-62zł). TAEBXSW
Formerly on Hoża the Dziki Ryż team have upped sticks and
moved into a space vacated by Café Brama. Decorated
with black shades, canvas lanterns, empty bird cages and
flamboyant plant life the interiors are cheap but lively, while
the menu is a decent enough canter through Thai and Asian
recipes, though by no means worth trekking half of Warsaw
for. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (22-32zł). TABXSW
tel. 022 328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com.
Some of Warsaw’s best restaurants are found inside hotels,
and the Inter-Continental’s Frida falls into that category. A
genuine Mexican menu – not your standard choice of burritos
– cooked by Mexican natives inside an interior of warm fabrics
and potted plants. If you’re here in early April then check out
Frida’s ‘Fajita Festival’, where 89zł rewards you with as many
fajitas as you can eat. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00, 17:30 - 23:00;
Sat, Sun 17:30 - 23:00. (65-89zł). TAUGXW
Taqueria Mexicana B-3, ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 022 556 47
Suparom Thai Food G-4, ul. Marszałkowska 45, tel.
20. Warsaw offers three types of Mexican restaurant: good,
bad and awful. That was the case, and Taqueria formerly
slipped into the latter category, but this venue is improving
fast with decent tacos and a colourful atmosphere found
inside a small room. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (32-52zł). AEST
022 627 18 88, www.dong-nam.com.pl. Decent versions
of Thai food served by staff who don’t mind slamming plates
in front of you before disappearing off to swear at each other.
Ever a reliable takeout option although, staff aside, eating
inside the pagoda-style interior is a real sensory pleasure.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (25-55zł). ABXSW
Warsaw Tortilla Factory,
the best of tex - mex,
new improved menu,
new bands & new dj’s
Sunanta C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 022 434 22 16,
www.sunanta.pl. Mixed reports about this place. We enjoyed the best Thai meal we’ve had in the city here, though
others have been less fortunate with criticism fired at both
the nervous staff and the competence of the chefs. Our
red curry duck proved a pleasant surprise, spicy but not
overpoweringly so, though the servings were so skimpy that
McDonald’s found itself raking in the money not minutes after
we had left. An intimate, muted interior includes dark woods
and bamboo, as well as an open kitchen from which you can
hear the sound of dropped plates. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (18-52zł). AGBS
Frida A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel),
“Opening mid April” - All new
Warsaw Tortilla Factory
ul. Wilcza 46
tel. 022 621-8622
www.warsawtortillafactory.pl
info@warsawtortillafactory.pl
56
RESTAURANTS
Turkish
Lokanta B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. 022 585 10
04, www.lokanta.home.pl. If you want a kebab but don’t
want food poisoning then this Turkish restaurant fits the bill. A
wood-fired oven for pizza, a charcoal grill for their kebabs and
Turkish tea, coffee and wine to wash it all down with. Popular
with the office crowd, Lokanta’s sofas, cushions and timber
beams make it a choice space for an after-work wind down.
Business lunch available. QOpen 08:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 23:30. (12-42zł). TAEBXS
Vegetarian
Vega C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 52, tel. 022 828 64 28, www.
vega-bar.com.pl. The former Mata Hari has changed name
and changed menu. It’s still a veggie hangout, the difference
being a move away from Indian influences. Choose from obscure dishes like soya pierogi or soya with yoghurt. QOpen
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. (8-14zł). GSU
Cafés
Łysy Pingwin H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 11, tel. 022 618 02
56, www.lysypingwin.pl. At the heart of Praga’s Boho renaissance stands the Bald Penguin, a tatty bar/café swarming
with academics and unsigned musicians. Run by a Swedish
Buddhist this spot is as wacky as you find with its collection
of jumble sale lamps, artistic ‘happenings’ and courtyard
dedicated to the Gallic art of boules. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 16:00 - 03:00. A
Belle Epoque B-1, ul. Freta 18, tel. 022 635 41 05. It’s
all gone a little Alice in Wonderland. A barking mad collection
of lampshades, dusty gramophones and important looking
antiques cram every corner of this adorable Old Town stop.
Music is in the form of crackly Frank Sinatra tunes and there’s
some very good tea and cakes. Outstanding. QOpen 13:00
- 23:00. EJSX
Blikle Café B-4, ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 022 826 66
19, www.blikle.pl. A part of Warsaw folklore. This is where
Charles De Gaulle used to come for his donuts back in his
Warsaw days, and Blikle still sell a chocolate and marzipan
cake honouring their famous guest. A classy, august venue,
with a menu that includes a range of breakfasts, bagels and
a dessert selection that will have you in heaven. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. ABSTX
Café Brama C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 022 434 22 13,
www.cafebrama.pl. What was once a chain with several
ventures across the city has seen their empire crash into the
sea, leaving them with just their original flagship café on Krucza. Prices have spiralled for no apparent reason, and though
the food is bland café fare, Brama still appeals on account of
their scatty service, bright, sunny atmosphere and a drinks
list that includes Hoegaarden beer. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00,
Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. ABSTX
Café Bristol C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44
(Le Royal Méridien Bristol), tel. 022 551 18 28, www.hotel-bristol.pl. Like something from the pages of a Fitzgerald
book, pretty waitresses ferry coffee and pastries from table
to table in this chequered café. High-class. QOpen 08:00
- 21:00. AERSTUWX
Cava C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 022 826 64 27, www.
cava.pl. Huge windows, jazz and an abundance of drinks and
snacks to pick from. Decorated with clean lines, lacquered
woods and big sacks of coffee beans this place could be great
RESTAURANTS
if it weren’t for the end product. The locals clearly don’t care
and this place is packed from opening.QOpen 09:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. ABSTUWX
Coffeeheaven C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 46, tel. 022 828 20 57,
www.coffeeheaven.eu.com. You’ll find Coffeeheaven across
the city, and no train journey can truly begin without stocking up
on goodies for the ride ahead. Nowy Świat is home to their flagship, and though the interiors could have been designed within
three minutes the coffee more than makes up for it. We’ve yet
to find a better way to beat the sticky Warsaw heat than their
strawberry smoothies. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Fri 07:30 - 22:30,
Sat 08:00 - 22:30, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. ABGSW
Coffee Karma F-4, pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 022 875
87 09, www.coffeekarma.pl. Earnest looking intellectuals read Hesse while taking languid sips of hand-roasted
coffee. Huge windows afford views of pl. Zbawiciela, and the
staff are also adept at fixing exotic smoothies. Ten out of
ten. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00
- 22:00. ABESWX
Czuły Barbarzyńca (The Gentle Barbarian) C-2, ul. Dobra
31, tel. 022 826 32 94, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Owlish
academics fill this esoteric bookshop cum café. Springy sofas
and chairs are scattered amongst shelves full of clever sounding
titles. Ten out of ten for character alone. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. ASWX
Embassy C-4, pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 022 584 71 01,
www.strefagourmet.pl. A light and leafy atmosphere is
the home to this gourmet delicatessen. Start each day with
one of their freshly baked croissants or brioches, or go for
sandwiches made using home produce. The choices are
endless, ranging from couscous to bigos. If you don’t plan
on spending a fortune keep the kids waiting outside; you’ll
find the best cakes in Warsaw lining up here. QOpen 09:00
- 23:00. ASTX
Green Coffee F-3, ul. Marszałkowska 84/92, tel. 022
629 83 73. Occupying a spot in the shadow of the Novotel,
Green Coffee offers a selection of leaf teas and snacks amid
comfortable sofas and black and white prints. In summer
the windows hoist away creating a light, airy atmosphere.
Bad news comes in the shape of below-par ciabattas and
smoothies that use tinned mangoes. Some of the staff act
like sulky prima donnas. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. AB
ERSTUX
Chłodna 25 E-2, ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 022 620 24 13,
www.chlodna25.pl. The new home of Warsaw counter-culture, and something of an alternative community centre. An
eclectic, no-frills design comes with mismatched furnishings,
local artwork and wooden floorboards, and this is where a
crowd of varied backgrounds descend to take to the piano,
discuss the works of Nietzsche or sink into armchairs and look
revolutionary. The staff here are superb, so do visit before
these angels choose to migrate to England. QOpen 08:00
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. ESTUW
Kafka C-3, ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 022 826 08 22, www.
kafka.com.pl. Join bookworm types, and people pretending
to read clever books in an effort to impress, inside Warsaw’s
latest literary café. Giant windows allow passers by to peer in
at you struggling through your dog eared copy of Gogol, while
a series of low slung sofas do their best to swallow you for
the afternoons duration. A great place for daydreamers, with
decorations coming in the form of a towering bookshelf taking
up one whole side and black and white checkered flooring.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. BGSUW
Krokiecik B-3, ul. Zgoda 1, tel. 022 827 30 37, www.
krokiecik.com. A basic café that hums with custom thanks
to its position in the heart of the city. Polish café standards
served in a room decorated with tiles and wood, while coffee
machines hiss and splutter in the background. QOpen 09:00
- 21:00, Sun 10:00 - -19:00. TAXSW
La Patisserie B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 022 630 52 32, www.marriott.com/wawpl. The
Marriott folk have added a pastry shop to the hotel, replete
with home made cakes, pastries and sandwiches. Gourmet
teas and coffees are on hand to add to the flavours. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 17:00. AUXSW
Mercers C-3, ul. Chmielna 21, tel. 022 826 35 80.
Aimed at the Sex in the City generation, Mercers has good
coffee and even better smoothies inside a clinical interior
of white sofas, dark woods and prints of NYC. This is one of
the best cafés in Warsaw, but not without its caveats: the
ordering process, pay at one counter, collect your winnings
at the other, frequently descends into confusion. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. ASW
Same Fusy ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 022 635 90 14,
www.samefusy.pl. An arcane looking candlelit cellar that
induces a zen-like calm on all who visit. The design is great,
with tree trunks used as tables, and a scattering of artistic
oddities (feathered warrior masks) attached to the walls.
Perch yourself on one of the stools before taking your pick
from over a hundred teas garnered from afar afield as Tibet
and Africa.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. TJAX
Szpilka C-3, pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 022 628 91 32.
Szpilka once stood on the cutting edge of Warsaw’s night
scene, offering a modern European menu, round-the-clock
hours and sharp design. Today this white-on-white café, bar,
meeting place, buzzes long after the rest of Warsaw sleeps,
but that’s no reflection of quality. The food verges on abysmal,
though it’s still a good bet if you’re looking to greet dawn
with a strong drink. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 08:00
- 07:00. ABS
Tok B-4, ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 022 621 77 99, www.
tokcafe.pl. A great find that’s rising up the rankings to
emerge as one of Warsaw’s best loved meeting points. You’ve
seen the interior dozens of times before, all blond woods and
abstract artwork, but the light bites and choice of smoothies
are in a league of their own. The laid back atmosphere is
infectious, making it alarmingly easy to lose half an afternoon
here. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. ABSUW
Vienna Café and Restaurant B-4, al. Jerozolimskie
65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 022 630 51 41, www.marriott.com/wawpl. A welcome splurge. Popular for hushed
one-on-one meetings, Vienna is all upholstered chairs and
trays of cakes sitting on important-looking cutlery. Surrender
to desire and take on their all-you-can-eat dessert buffet.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. (20-100zł). ASTUWX
Booze Food
Warsaw has a kebab stand on every corner, and most of
them will do their level best to poison you. Don’t expect
the Brit style kebab experience; many places will insist
on stuffing your pitta with gherkins, cabbage, beetroot,
carrots and any other nasty vegetable that may be at
hand. If you want something nuclear ask for your kebab
to be served bardzo ostry (very spicy).
As a general rule avoid the train station, in particular
Bosfor: quite possibly the most wicked excuse for a
kebab in Europe, and only to be visited in instances of
extreme emergency. Talk to any Pole and they’ll tell you
the best kebab in the world is Bar Ali Baba on the corner
of Świętokrzyska and Marszałkowska. You’ll be able to
identify it by the crowd gathered outside. You’ve got two
windows to choose from, with one serving Turkish-style
kebabs, the other Greek. Elsewhere Bar Egipt behind the
Novotel is open 24hrs and makes a very decent attempt
at a kebab, while Bar Turecki Zgoda (ul. Zgoda 3) serve
decent snack sized kebabs to post-club casualties. If,
like many expats, you find yourself boozing into the early
hours in Bar Below then sustenance lies around the corner on Hoża’s Egyptian run Cleopatra kebab - open 24hrs
and not half bad, with a decent lasagne as well.
The underpass on Marszałkowska and Jerozolimskie is
home to several Polish fast food chains like Oskar and A
Petit. Expect ciabattas and hybrid kebab things served
by young girls who clearly dream of working elsewhere.
The last time we were there one such character enquired
if we wanted our panini served with salmonella. Charming. If you want to fit in with the locals do keep an eye
out for zapakianka: a Polish specialty which amounts
to half a toasted baguette topped with melted cheese,
mushrooms and sauce from a squeezy bottle.
If you wish to protect your health then Subway Sandwiches have just opened on al. Jerozolimskie 31, and
stay open until 02:00 (midnight on Sunday). For something completely different take a trip to The Food Bus.
Parked opposite the InterContinental, climb abroad the
battered old bus and order sausages and other miscellaneous soakage scrawled on the board. Absolute
madness reigns inside, so don’t be surprised to find
old women singing off key, saucer-eyed clubbers and
vomiting foreigners. Open hours are unpredictable, and
remain at the owners whim, though it’s usually open from
midnight till dawn. If you want to feel ripped off then by
all means feel free to sample the joy that is the menu at
Szparka (pl. Trzech Krżyzy 18). Stick to the sandwiches;
order anything more complicated and you’ll find yourself
handing it back to the waiter, maybe with a few expletives thrown in.
Wayne’s Coffee A-4, al. Jerozolimskie 56c, tel. 022
630 21 42, www.waynescoffee.pl. The most popular
coffee chain in Scandinavia have landed in Warsaw, with
another franchise due to open with the imminent unveiling
of the Złote Tarasy development next to the train station.
Interiors are clean-cut generic, with the selling point here
being the end product. A vast range of coffees – from cinnamon latte to caramel steamers – go alongside freshly
baked bagels, wraps and foccacio toast. Don’t settle for any
imitations. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00. ASUWX
April - May 2007
57
WE ARE OPEN!
business lunch
great coctail bar
family brunch on Saturday and Sunday
with animation for kids
live music every Tuesday
summer garden
BETWEEN CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION
- PALACE OF CULTURE AND SCIENCE
- ZLOTE TARASY
HARD ROCK CAFE WARSAW
UL. ZLOTA 59
00-120 WARSAW
GROUP SALES call (22) 222 0 702
or e-mail on ococho@hardrockcafe.pl
ENTRANCE FROM EMILI PLATER
OR ZLOTE TARASY-SUNKEN PLAZA
www.hardrockcafe.pl
60
WARSAW STAGS
There’s nothing quite so quintessentially British than grown
men setting off for foreign climes dressed as women or
Flintstones before subjecting the local population to a
barrage of colourful songs, vomit and innuendo. Better known
as the Stag Night, Poland, has become big news for groups
of lads looking to give an unwitting groom his ‘last night of
freedom’. Kraków remains first choice in Poland, but Warsaw
is gaining fast, if not so noticeably. While the 90s saw Dublin
and Amsterdam – then later Prague – as the destination
of choice, the boom of the budget flight has brought the
rest of Europe within reach of the rampant stags. With the
rise and rise of the budget airlines continuing unabated,
Warsaw has never been so easily accessible – just ask any
Brit resident out here how much they once paid for a flight
and you’ll laugh. Without doubt, and much to the delight of
local cash tills, the city meets all the criteria for pre-marital
horseplay; cheap beer – check, English-speaking locals
– check, lots of connections to English airports – check, and
last but definitely not least, centrefold women – just take
a look around. None of these factors look set to change,
which means it’s time for the locals to buy a tin hat and
expect an onslaught.
Need to know
For the stags who find themselves wandering Warsaw it’d
be useful to reiterate a few points raised elsewhere in the
guide. Polish booze is dynamite. While excessive drinking
might be a national sport, the local robocops do not take
kindly to displays of overt public drunkenness – least of all if
it emanates from some bright spark dressed as Chewbacca.
A trip to the drunk tank will set you back 250zł, and more
importantly will see a good chunk of your weekend spent
locked in a cell with members of the great unwashed. Warsaw
is not a dangerous city, but it is a big city, and as such the
laws of nature dictate that lunatics will make up a proportion
of the local population. Some may not take kindly to groups
of blokes acting like big time charlies. Use common sense
and you’re guaranteed a trouble free trip. Finally, do check
beforehand if your travel plans match those of the Pope; the
pontiffs visit in May was celebrated with a blanket alcohol
prohibition throughout Warsaw, leaving several bemused
stags casting sinister glances at the best man.
NIGHTLIFE
What to do
Beer and women will usually top most stag agendas, and
you’ll find plenty of both within Warsaw’s city limits. One thing
you will struggle to find is a concentrated nightlife district
– there is none in Warsaw. The spread out nature of the town
means you can expect to be chasing round town in a taxi. The
closest you will find to a good cluster of bars will be around
the area of Nowy Świat, Foksal, Chmielna and pl. Trzech
Krzyży. For smaller groups, start the night in Sense (C-3, ul.
Nowy Świat 19) which serves dynamite cocktails inside a
trendy environment that bursts with good lookers. The bare
area isn’t huge, so the earlier you get here, the more likely it
is you’ll get a perch. Two places of note are BrowArmia (F-2,
ul. Królewska 1) and Bierhalle (C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64); both
microbreweries, and both venues where group drunkenness
is expected, and sometimes even encouraged. Expat pubs
are always a magnet, and our pick is the Irish-run Bar Below
(B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 64). A modern space with clubbish
tunes and plenty of sofas generate an urbane atmosphere,
while countless TVs and satellite dishes mean you’re
guaranteed to see the game of your choice. On the menu:
better fry-ups than served at home. Bradley’s (E-3, ul. Sienna
39) is your signature Irish pub abroad, and always a good bet
for a lively weekend. Do watch out for the occasional booby
trap. Patrick’s (B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 21) and John Bull Pub
(B-2, ul. Jezuicka 4) may sound like welcoming venues, but
for differing reasons prove anything but.
If you’re looking to combine drinking with food then our
choice is the Warsaw Tortilla Factory (F-3, ul. Wilcza 46),
where high-powered salsa sauces and venomous cocktails
will have you thinking you’ve gone blind. On the whole you’re
going to have to be dressed up to make it into most of the
clubs in Warsaw, and we don’t mean in comedy outfits; and do
enter covertly in several groups, as opposed to descending
en masse; if you don’t most door police will refuse entry
straight off the bat.
Disregarding a miracle, the likelihood of Poland’s females
being impressed by your drunken antics are highly minimal,
in which case there’s a chance you’ll be ending up in one of
the few strip clubs in the city. Sofia (A/B-4, pl. Powstanców
Warszaway 1) is the stag choice, and offers highly physical
private dances that start at 50zł. Expect two rooms that pack
out to the rafters, and a large team of flighty girls doing the
entertaining. Entrance is 30zł. Watch out for the beautiful
creatures who offer to pay a visit to your hotel room after
hours; they’ll insist on payment upfront before vanishing into
thin air. If your pleasures run to the hardcore end of things
then Warsaw has a number of houses of ill repute that will
satisfy your animal urges. If you don’t mind the 20zł taxi
fare then Rasputin is at the higher end of the market, with
prices beginning at 200zł per hour. A bar area is present for
married men who wish to keep out of any saucy going-ons.
More central, and cheaper, try Aisha (C-3, ul. Chmielna 10,
flat 36) where an hour with a girl usually starts from 130zł.
Alternatively, just pick up one of the fliers you’ll find clotting
car windscreens and follow the directions. It’s that easy.
The figures in brackets denote the price of the cheapest
pint of lager, which in many cases rarely dips below 10zł.
Opening hours we list are the official hours given to us by
the bars themselves. In practice many will keep their doors
open until the last guest.
Bars & Pubs
Amnesia B-2, ul. Wspólna 62, tel. 022 625 52 80. Tiffany lamps, exposed brickwork and a scarlet theme generate
a vaguely Rubenesque atmosphere, and it’s each man for
himself at the weekend, when a permissive crowd squeezes
into this lively basement bar. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00
- 05:00, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. (10zł). AEBX
Aurora C 3, ul. Dobra 33/35, tel. 022 498 45 65, www.
aurora.waw.pl. A pseudo-industrial interior comes with
plenty of red vinyl and exposed concrete and the crowds
seems to exclusively consist of student who spend more
money on drugs than they do books. The only thing you’re liable to discern over the haze is one of the most obscure music
policies in Warsaw; violent punk, abstract jazz and trance.
Deep inside a courtyard, so let your ears guide you. QOpen
17:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 07:00. (6zł). UEB
NEW
Axis Bar E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Warsaw Hotel),
tel. 022 356 55 55, www.warsaw.hilton.com. Attached to
the Hilton, though Axis goes way beyond hotel bar standards.
This bi-level bar has top-to-bottom windows, steel fittings and
lots of stark colours. It’s a hip and urban combo with clubbish
soundtracks played in the background, often by DJs, and a
mezzanine level with Austin Powers era carpeting. On the
menu a series of adventurous light bites, including wedges
served with guacamole, and the accurately described ‘mini
burger’. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00. (12zł). AUBW
Bar Below B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 64, tel. 022 621
18 50, www.barbelow.pl. Clocks stop in the subterranean
Bar Below where a drink around the bar does not end until
life stories are exchanged with the expat regulars who reside
here. This is a typically chic new Warsaw bar with a difference;
attitudes are left outside the door and it’s one of the few places
where strangers mingle with effortless ease as they’re cajoled
into joining darts competitions in the back room. Sport comes
beamed onto a series of plasma screens, while the bar menu
goes way beyond the call of duty with its award winning fry
ups. Irish landlord, Niall, has created the perfect bar, striking a
balance between trendy urban drinking space and your local
back home. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00. (10zł). AB
Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 827 61 77,
www.bierhalle.pl. Warsaw’s best beer arrives to the city
centre. Committed drinkers will already have spent a fair
percentage of their wages in Bierhalle’s flagship Arkadia
venue, and now they have even less distance to travel with
the unveiling of this city centre pub. Interiors are dominated
by light coloured heavy blocks of timber and busty wenches
ferry frothing beer steins from table to table. With its TV
screens and plates of booze food this is a great space for
the lads, though on our visit the basement toilets smelt like
a toxic accident. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 23:00. (18zł). ABW
Café Foksal C-3, ul. Foksal 21, tel. 022 828 06 05.
You may think that Café Foksal is merely an overflow for the
nearby Tam Tam and Foksal 19 venues, but behold, it has
character of itself. Fashionably battered furniture, cupboard
doors functioning as tables, rough wallpaper and a bike stuck
to the ceiling make for a cosy atmosphere with possibilities
for intimate chatting. EB and Palm are on tap - you decide
if that’s good or bad. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00
- 02:00. (9zł). AEBX
Trust others
When it comes to organizing a stag night the chances
are that the best man will be the biggest half-wit in the
pack, in which case it’s always best to put your faith in the
professionals. The following companies can organize tailormade packages of Alpha Male activities that range from
Kalashnikov’s to strippers to go-karts. Shop around for the
deal that suits you:
www.warsawstagnights.com
www.lastnightoffreedom.co.uk
www.polventure.co.uk
April - May 2007
61
NIGHTLIFE
62
Cafe Bar Lemon B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 6, tel. 022
829 55 44. Open around the clock, but don’t be surprised
to be turned away if you show up looking like you’ve been
drinking for three days in a park. Club sounds are played at
hangover volume, and the interior is sparsely decorated with
formica, leather sofas and pictures of lemons. Q 24hrs
(9zł). AUBW
Column Bar C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Le
Royal Meridien Bristol), tel. 022 551 10 00. Where high-society gathers to live the good life. Wonderful cocktails knocked
up by an expert bartender inside an impressive art nouveau
interior. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. (21zł). AUEBXW
Drink Bar F-3, ul. Wspólna 52/54, tel. 022 629 26 25.
The Drink Bar is the size of a cupboard and comes enveloped
in the sort of smog that will leave you considering a trip to
the doctor. The décor is eccentric, but the seating is minimal,
meaning you’ll often find yourself sitting shoulder to shoulder
trading drinking stories with glazed looking strangers. Getting
to the toilet involves slaloming past booze casualties, and
this place remains unaffected by the explosion of the sterile
bars endemic in New Warsaw. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00, Sat,
Sun 17:00 - 02:00. (7zł).
NEW
Envy F-4, ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 022 623 02 53, www.
envyclub.pl. Abandon hope all ye who enter. Two venues have
folded in this exact location within the last eight months, and
there’s nothing about Envy to suggest they’ll fare any better in
averting the curse of Wilcza 50/52. Undecided as to whether
to be a bar, club or restaurant the owners have attempted to
be all three, with predictably shambolic results. Minimal effort
has gone into redecorating this place, and it still features the
red design and stone cladding of the previous ventures that
chanced their luck here. This L-shaped space is not small,
making the lack of customers all the more noticeable, while
the bar staff display little flair for their job. QOpen 12:00
- 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. 9zł. AUXW
Extravaganza F-4, al. Armii Ludowej 26, tel. 022 579
30 30. Extravaganza features vinyl booths, projected images
and an arsenal of alcohol displayed behind the bar. A padded
chillout room, even. Aiming to attract the new money crowd
this venue looks set to become The Next Big Thing. Music
ranges from Latino to funk, and guests even have the option
of eating their dinner off a naked woman. QOpen 11:00
- 21:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun.
(10zł). AUEXW
Something alternative
C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 22. Nowy Świat is better known
for its designer bars, where local celebs trot around with
flamboyant cocktails and the latest ipod technology.
But, take a step through the courtyard at number 22
and you’ll find yourself summoned into a shadowy demi
monde. Occupying a maze of low-level prefab blocks are
a series of dark, divey bars accessed through mesh grill
doorways. Most remain nameless, with opening hours left
to the discretion of the owners. Populated by students,
artists and other people who spend their days in stoned
daydreams all the bars come bathed in permanent
darkness, with drinkers squeezed in at all angles taking
time out to describe the screenplay they plan on writing.
If you’ve had your fill of the glossy side of Warsaw this is
an essential visit, with night goggles and a preference for
smoky rooms necessary.
NIGHTLIFE
Foksal 19 C-3, ul. Foksal 19, tel. 022 829 29 55, www.
foksal19.com. If you’re deemed worthy of entry then you’ll
find yourself entering a beautiful bar with yellowish lighting
illuminating rich interior that combines purple and black surfaces with a huge glowing bar. A design masterstroke, and
things get better when you venture to the club upstairs (open
weekends only); a dazzling purple décor that evokes that first
days of disco vibe. At weekends expect it to be packed out
with fashionista drinking cocktails to a background of funk,
soul and house sounds. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00
- 03:00, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. (12zł). AW
Funky Jimmy B-4, ul. Wilcza 35/41, tel. 022 621 35
06. Funky Jimmy has a retro Carnaby Street air generated by
lounge seating, window booths and psychadelic toilet - you
could have stepped into an Austin Powers film. Buddha Bar
tunes spill from the speakers, while the relatively small floor
plan helps create an atmosphere that buzzes come the weekend. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. (7zł). A
Iguana G-5, ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 022 851 23 23,
www.iguanalounge.pl. Once the preserve of the middle-aged
expat, Iguana has changed its spots and joined the list of
Warsaw’s lounge bars. Draped in a lazy reddish glow, this NoBo
copycat succeeds in generating a great atmosphere courtesy
of good music and even better drinks. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. (10zł). A
Indeks C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 24, tel. 022
826 92 39. A sanctuary from the nearby university, hence
a home for students skiving what they should actually be
doing. It’s a warren of softly-lit corners with artsy charcoal
murals, whitewashed walls and track-lighting combining well
with ambient music and dark, solid furniture. QOpen 11:00
- 02:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 02:00. (6zł). AEBX
Kaiser B-4, ul. Chmielna 24, tel. 022 826 31 91.
Gniazdo Piratów ul. Ogólna 5, tel. 022 633 71 82,
www.gniazdopiratow.com.pl. Relive your pirate dreams of
yesteryear while cracking jokes about Seaman Stains inside
this imperious addition to Warsaw culture. Jolly Roger flags
and lanterns hang from the rigging and live sea shanties have
the crowds singing along in a tuneless chorus. QOpen 17:00
- 02:00. (6zł). UE
Under world figures, Legia football players and expats
talking abou t ta x breaks and strip clubs congregate
within these pristine white walls decorated with strings
of fair y lights. Al though rather a rou tine looking bar,
Kaiser is always a good night out with its central location
making it an ideal star t point before going onto more
nefarious activities. This was once a football friendly
bar, though the scar ves have now been taken down to
deter the visiting stag par ties. Q Open 11:00 - 03:00.
(9zł). AUBXW
NEW
Level C-3, ul. Chmielna 9a, tel. 022 827 63 05, www.
Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 51, tel. 022 222 07 00, www.
levelclub.pl. Dripping with vivid colours, glass beads and
antique recliners a visit to Level can’t help but conjure
images of sexual decadence and ribaldry. Not unlike the
domain of an eccentric artistocrat whose spent his fortune
on hallucinogens, Level scores points for individuality, while
a music policy of house and trip-hop draws the bold and
hardrockcafe.pl. Hard Rock is deceptively large. The main
entrance, on the upper floor, reveals a small bar area with
high stools, wood finishes and bar tenders shaking ice and
inventing cocktails. Sneak downstairs and Hard Rock unravels
into rock star heaven with all the requisite guitars, signed
pictures and stage outfits hung from the walls. The bar down
here stretches as far as the eye can see and propping it up
is a crowd that’s as equally foreign as it is local. Table seats
go like hotcakes so be prepared to exercise patience. A list
of events are lined up to ensure Hard Rock doesn’t become
another short-lived Warsaw fad including live radio shows
from the DJ booth. Q AUEBXW
beautiful from across Warsaw. An aesthetic pleasure, and
a great place for weekend mischief. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 14:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00.
(8zł). AEBW
Lolek E-5, ul. Rokitnicka 20, tel. 022 825 62 02.
Deep inside Pole Mokotowskie park so an excellent spot
for summer drinking. Inside its all clinking beer glasses as
groups of lads settle down on the wooden benches to drink
into the night. An open grill softens hangovers, and where
it not for the prehistoric wall etchings you could convince
yourself you were sitting in a Bavarian beer hall. QOpen
11:00 - 03:00. (9zł). AEBX
Melodia
C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 3/5, tel. 022 583 01 80, www.klubmelodia.pl. Bit of a history this place. Once the haunt of important
commie officials from the Party HQ from across the road, Melodia
was allowed to slide into disrepair during the 90s. Treated to an
extensive refit it’s now back and making waves. Still attracting an
exclusive crowd, only this time of a more capitalist background:
rich Varsovians and important expats. Take your time to explore,
this place is huge. Bar, restaurant and club, with all decorated with
dark wood and moody orange shades. Ratty door staff seem
determined to see your night ends on a sour note. QOpen 10:00
- 04:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 04:00. (8zł). AEBX
Mojito
C-3, ul. Chmielna 13a, tel. 022 505 91 86. Perch yourself
at the bar and put your faith in the barman; as you’d imagine
the Mojito is the forte here, and you’ve got seven different
types to put to the sword. A trendy, upmarket interior of
leather seating and warm lighting helping to create the prime
atmosphere to practise the Hemingway pose. QOpen 12:00
- 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. (10zł). AUES
Hemisphere A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49 (InterContinental
Hotel), tel. 022 328 88 88. Housed in the basement of
the InterContinental, Hemisphere is a smart space featuring
leather armchairs and an ever-stretching bar - perfect to
enjoy complicated looking tapas snacks. Pro-bar staff mix
cocktails for the casual after-work set, and big matches see
huge plasma screens wheeled out. Each Wednesday join a
small crowd of expats for whisky tasting sessions. QOpen
17:30 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (17zł). AU
Champions Bar B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott
Hotel), tel. 022 630 51 19, www.champions.pl. Filled with
trophies, pool tables and beeping dart machines this is no
less than your classic sports bar, though it’d be great if they
added a TV in the toilet so you didn’t miss a kick while taking
a natural break from the matches that are beamed out on
34 screens in the bar area. Hot tip: happy hour all weekend.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (12zł). AUX
Ice Bar A-4, ul. Pańska 61, tel. 022 654 56 34, www.iceclub.com.pl. How we wish Ice Bar would melt and disappear.
Luring a crowd of B-list party people the interiors of this venue
are kept at a constant minus eight with all fixtures and fittings
made of ice - including chairs and glasses. Protect yourself
from the chill by downing vodka and dressing in the complimentary silver-lined ponchos provided at the door. QOpen
16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. (8zł). AUE
April - May 2007
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NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
NEW
Pistaccio Lobby Bar & Lounge E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Warsaw Hotel), tel. 022 356 55 55,
www.warsaw.hilton.com. A highly impressive venue
and already great for people spotting; on our visit we
spied a celebrity chef on one side and an Australian tea
magnate wearing women’s Dior glasses on the other.
The ceiling must be the highest in Warsaw, generating
a ligh t, air y atmosph ere, wi th spectacular han gin g
lights casting a glow on the drinkers below. Take your
drinks on low slung red and green chairs, or else prop
up a mirror heavy bar to trade flir ty remarks with the
smar tl y presented bar girls. Q Open 08:00 - 01:00.
(15zł). TARUXSW
Pixel Club B-4, ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 022 826 50 33,
www.pixelclub.pl. A double decker bar inside that great
big concrete slab that rises over Chmielna. A long metal bar
dominates the upstairs, which comes with bright orange
shades, a pop art feel and people who are blatantly not hip
enough to do their drinking in Warsaw’s better known nightspots. The service flaps and faffs and thoroughly fails in their
duty to serve, allowing you plenty of time to enjoy the views
instead. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. (9zł). AU
NEW
tonishingly popular, especially with students and other
sor ts who look like they’ve just finished band practice.
Music is weird, wi th plenty of experimental grooves,
while coloured projections on the ceilings add to a trippy
atmosphere. Q Open 10:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 04:00. 7zł. AXW
Pod Gwiazdami B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 85, enter
from ul. Hoża, tel. 022 628 37 67, www.klubpodgwiazdami.pl. Under the Stars proves an apt name for this
rooftop bar found atop of a residential building overlooking
Marszałkowska. Enter from Hoża and take the lift to find a
wannabe-retro space that fills with both regulars and the
curious. A wall of blank CDs adds a Sunset Studios feel,
while photo exhibits provide the artistic bent. Drinks are
poured from stand-up optics, and then consumed on old
easy chairs inside this In the know space. QOpen 13:00
- 23:00. (7zł). R
Qfajka
F-4, ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 022 522 82 25. In the heart of
student land, Qfajka is permanently cloaked in darkness with
only just enough candle light to illuminate the bookshelves,
classical sofas and odds and ends attached to the walls. Young,
weird academic sorts love it, and it’s a great place for a beer
if you can see through the haze. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. (7zł).
Plan B F-4, al. Wyzwolenia 18, tel. 022 826 54 81,
www.planbe.pl. Walk up a cur ving stair well to enter
Plan B, a venue where the ceilings are high and the
windows are low - so low you’ll have to crouch for views
of pl. Zbawiciela. Plan B has seen minimal investment
with a design that must have set the owner back the
price of a plate of sausages; white tiles, tatty posters
and red springy sofas. But this place has become as-
NoBo F-4, ul. Wilcza 58a, tel. 022 622 40 07, www.
nobobar.pl. Formerly the hottest address in town the uber
cool crowd have moved to pastures new, which means Nobo
is now idiot free and back to its best. Secretly hidden away
on Wilcza this spot brings back murky memories of a Moroccan knocking shop with its low ottomans, slash screens and
blood red colours. Find vampy girls schmoozing around the bar,
chefs cooking fusion from behind an open kitchen, and chilled
out trance sounds emanating from the DJ decks. Definitely a
destination to visit. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00,
Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. (9zł). AUBW
+ One Bar A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 022 328 87 55,
www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Climb to the first floor
of the InterContinental to find this classic bar. Bookcases and
framed pictures of steam trains fill the walls, while pretty girls
in little black dresses rush around keeping your drink full. Excellent pianist. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (17zł). AUEW
Opium B-2, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 022 827 71 61.
Persian drapes and overpowering incense dominate the
interior, while Warsaw fashionista hold court on the cushions
and mattresses scattered on the floor of the chill out lounge.
Downstairs, in the space once occupied by the ghastly Barbados club, a largish club area filled with figures of Buddha
and a couple of bars. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 21:00
- 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (8zł). AE
Organza Shot Bar B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 022 827
50 70, www.kluborganza.pl. Flushed in orange colours this
is the ideal warm up spot before hitting the glories of the clubs
next door. The name is a giveaway, shots are the order of the
day here, and with Poland sinking into its annual Arctic age you
could do a lot worse than pitching up here to melt the icicle
hanging from your nose. We got stuck into the cherry kamikaWarsaw In Your Pocket
Republica Latina C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 1, tel. 022
331 13 11, www.republicalatina.pl. Potent cocktails
- you’re guaranteed to spend the next day hiding under
the bedsheets - served by bartenders who don’t insist on
spinning bottles and catching glasses behind their backs.
The hip, red-lit interior is a perfect evening primer. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (10zł). W
ze’s and within moments our notes had turned to hieroglyphics.
The scattering of sofas are recommended for such times of
alcoholic paralysis. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 05:00,
Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (8zł). AUE
Pędzący Królik B-2, ul. Moliera 8, tel. 022 826 02 45.
Putting the bar into barmy, the design is all chequered floors,
pink armchairs and huge mirrors. The highlight: a giant portrait
of a rabbit reclining with a fan. Totally bonkers, and a kick in the
nuts to all the hyper-trendy drinking spots in the neighbourhood. The name alone deserves a gold button: The Running
Rabbit. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00
- 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (10zł). AUEW
Panorama Club B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott
Hotel), tel. 022 630 74 35, www.marriott.com/wawpl.
You half expect to meet JR Ewing in this glittering 40th floor
bar. Sweeping views of Warsaw are paired with ritzy furnishings. On the top floor of the Marriott this is the perfect
platform to discuss mergers and climb the corporate ladder.
QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. (17zł). AF
Paparazzi B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 022 828 42
19, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Look forward to an urbane
cocktail bar with a huge bar as centre piece, and a photos
of screen icons clinging to the walls. This is the place where
city traders and budding tycoons came to let off steam and
pick-up trophy girlfriends, while showing off clumsy moves on
a newly added dance floor. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 02:00. (11zł). AW
April - May 2007
65
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NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
Stacja Rynek B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 15, tel. 022
635 76 82, www.stacjarynek.pl. Warsaw’s old town closes
down and dies most nights, with most locals choosing to do
their drinking closer to the centre in pubs. That stands to
change with the opening of Stacja Rynek, an engaging effort
with crimson colours and Persian rugs stretched out over
the floor. Accessed via a steep stairwell this subterranean
venue has a downtempo atmosphere with jazz sounds on the
speakers and a collection of springy armchairs to dissolve
into. Not bad at all, and hopefully the start of old town’s social
renaissance. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00. (9zł). AB
Szparka Café
Sense C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 022 826 65 70, www.
sensecafe.com. A staunch editorial favourite, it’s hard to imagine life before Sense. Exploding on the scene a few years back
the team at Sense have shown this bar is no fad, with cloth-suited
staff knocking out what are consistently some of the best cocktails in town inside a show stealing interior that involves copper
pipes and a crushed glass bar. Ideal to conduct business during
the day, by night Sense goes up a gear as after-work expats swap
stories around the circular bar area. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (10zł). A
Shanghai Suite B-2, pl. Pilsudskiego 2, tel. 022 323
76 03. Dark and stark, Shanghai Suite is a sharply designed
drinkery that collects a clientele of ties off after work boozers.
Sit on low stools alongside the long, illuminated bar, or else
take to the completely nutty circular booths to enjoy the company of the thin blondynka on your arm. A couple of parasols
and exposed pipes cling to the night black ceiling, and good
looking staff dressed in oriental patterns prepare some of
the best cocktails in Warsaw - we recommend the Face to
Face. Yet to become hugely popular, which is by no means a
bad thing judging by the groups of pillocks found in the nearby
Cinnamon. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (10zł). A
Sheesha Lounge B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 3, tel. 022 828
25 25, www.sheesha.pl. It’s all very Arabian Nights here
with hookah pipes and ottoman strewn around the gallery
seating upstairs, and jangly rhythms played downstairs to
a crowd that does its best to keep up with the exotic beats.
Young and fashionable, so expect to meet discouraging looks
at the door if you’re not dressed the part. QOpen 16:00
- 03:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 04:00. (9zł). A
Skład Butelek ul. 11 listopada 22, www.skladbutelek.
pl. Set in the heart of Praga (Warsaw’s most pretentious/
fashionable district), Skład Butelek still manages to keep it
real and is a refreshing break when you’ve had enough of
conversations about what Sartre really meant. More like a
squat than a nightclub but the absence of door policy, plenty
of cheap beer (go for the unpasteurised Kozlak) and very
friendly crowd make the Bottle Bank (as the name translates)
an essential stop on a drinking tour of Warsaw. QOpen 19:00
- 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. (6zł).
SomePlace Else G-3, ul. Prusa 2, (Sheraton Warsaw
Hotel), tel. 022 450 67 10, www.sheraton.com.pl. You may
know people who live here. Someplace Else is an expat legend,
and amid the American memorabilia you’ll find a regular crew of
foreigners shouting their orders above the live music which plays
every night. The perfect bar menu and live sports complete the
picture. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (13zł). AEXW
C-4, pl. Trzech Krzyży 16a, tel. 022 621 03 70, www.
cafeszparka.pl. Most people can’t wait to tell you how much
they hate Szparka, but those are the same people you’ll see
rolling out of their doors come the early hours of Sunday. The
multi-level interior has the bland appeal of a chain bar back
home, the staff can infuriate and the conversations you’ll
overhear revolve around gloating about personal wealth.
Nonetheless, there’s a special ingredient in the air that keeps
people coming back for more, not least the obscenely flexible
opening hours. Just stay away from the food. QOpen 07:00
- 05:00. (10zł). AEBXW
Tam Tam
C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. 022 828 26 22, www.tamtam.
com.pl. A completely absurd bar with a zulu themed interior
that has proved popular with the natives for years. Warrior
masks and murals of spear throwing tribesmen decorate
the walls and the menu features hastily prepared cocktails
and items like Fruity Djibouti. It’s completely tasteless, but
nevertheless continues to rake the cash in. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (9zł). AEBX
The Cinnamon B-3, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 022 323 76 00,
www.thecinnamon.pl. Some claim the glory days of Cinammon
have gone, which is great news if you’ve ever been turned away by
the stuck-up half-wit guarding the velvet rope - is this Warsaw’s
most loathsome character? You’ll still find a crowd of platinum
blondes dancing on the bar and knocking over cocktails, though
it seems the glitterati have chosen to move on. Occupying a
chunk of the Metropolitan building the décor is all lunar curves
and smooth lines, though is starting to look increasingly passe.
QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00,
Sun 12:00 - 02:00. (9zł). AUXW
Clubs
Balsam E-6, Forty Mokotów, ul. Racławicka 99, tel. 022 898
28 24, www.balsam.net.pl. Impress your friends by telling them
about this place. Little known outside clubbing circles Balsam has
acquired cult status. Hidden inside the guts of Fort Mokotów, a series
of vaulted rooms are home to varying degrees of madness, and the
crowd consists of people wearing prescription glasses and off their
heads on disco beans. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00,
Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (8zł). AEBW
Barbie Bar C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12 (enter from ul. Nowogrodzka), tel. 0 692 70 29 68, www.barbiebar.pl. Once
a gay hangout it’s now all gone teenage, so don’t be surprised to
find a cross-section of Warsaw’s rich kids dancing on tables and
throwing up in toilets. It’s still a pink palace with a glam Boogie
Nights vibe, and you really ought to prepare yourself for sensory
overload before stepping in here; pink scatter cushions, chandeliers and red bits of fur hang from the walls. QOpen 21:30
- 05:00, Tue 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Sun. (9zł). W
Club 70 E-2, ul. Waliców 9, tel. 022 654 71 41. A
dark, smok y cellar that draws student types dressed in
orange tank tops and charity shop cast offs, all grooving
away to the sounds of the 70s. Q Open 20:00 - 04:00.
Closed Sun. (8zł). A
Club Hotl B-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 022
826 74 66. Decent(ish) little bar/club in the former Europejski
Hotel building. They must have thought long and hard about
the name. Not really large enough to be considered a proper
club but does have a dance floor and a fair bit of seating. DJs
perform from a booth at the bar but don’t take kindly to receiving orders for beer.QOpen 22:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 22:00
- 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (12ł). AUBW
Cocaine A-2, al. Solidarności 82a, tel. 022 636 01 03,
www.cocaine.com.pl. A large, multi-level project which
clearly must have cost a few suitcases of złotys. Plenty of
designer trappings and weird installations fill the interior,
though they’re clearly lost on a crowd decked out in tracksuits
and shaved heads. Interesting name, though we’re assuming
anyone discovered hoovering up rails of Colombian’s finest
will face expulsion. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu, Sun. (10zł). AUX
Dekada
E-4, ul. Grójecka 19/25, tel. 022 668 97 77, www.
dekada.pl. A night spent here guarantees a few stories
the next day, something helped by the crowd; a mix of
slightly older expats picking off girls half their age. If you
wish, sit inside a 1950s tram and observe the pantomime
around you, otherwise take to a dance floor which plays
different sounds depending on the night. The weekends
are strictly disco, with a lusty scent hanging thick in the
air. For something a little more low-key visit on Monday
for some excellent jazz nights. Door policy can be strict on
young males. QOpen 19:00 - 07:00, Sat 20:00 - 07:00.
Closed Sun. AUE
Enklawa B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 022 827 31 51,
www.enklawa.com. This is where a young, elite crowd
head to the moment the doors close at Paparazzi. Find
cigarette slim girls and office hotshots trotting down the red
carpet to the entrance, before opting to drink within an inch
of Hades inside a two level interior of stone cladding and
suspended steel tubing. The musical menu suits the bevvied-up out-of-sync dance moves practiced by the guests,
with disco, salsa and chart hits getting airplay throughout
the week. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
(8zł). AE
The Living Room
C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. 022 826 39 28, www.livingroom.
pl. A good looking bar decorated entirely with clean, cream
colours and manicured shrubs. Eclectic music from obscure
dance and jazz acts, super service and ashtrays only big
enough for one cigarette. Without exception the crowd is
dressed from head to heel in black. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
(10zł). AXW
W Oparach Absurdu H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 6, tel. 0
660 78 03 19, www.oparyabsurdu.pl. Shambolic charm
aplently in what must rank as one of Warsaw’s most charismatic bars. Penetrate the fog to find wannabe artists and
actors holding court amid the flea market junk, theatre seats
and Persian rugs. One in a million, and well worth the jaunt
into Praga. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (7zł). E
Zakątek
B-4, ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 022 826 70 15. Faintly redolent
of a Kraków liquor den, it fills with educated whisperings,
and a surreal, gentle quality attributed to the smattering of
antiques, cushions and low-key tunes. Excellent. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (7zł).
April - May 2007
67
68
NIGHTLIFE
Ground Zero F-3, ul. Wspólna 62, tel. 022 625 39 76,
www.groundzero.pl. Ground Zero is set inside a former Cold
War nuclear shelter and there are times when it’s tempting to
test just how bomb proof it really is. This is Warsaw’s most
notorious meat market with chart dance hits played to crowds
of lads aching to knock each other out and teenaged girls
impressed by such shows of gorilla virility. Often packed to
the rafters, a disturbing indictment on the youth of Warsaw.
QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. (7zł).
Klubo Kawiarnia B-3, ul. Czackiego (first gate from ul.
Świętokrzyska), www.klubokawiarnia.pl. Covertly hidden
down an unmarked courtyard the only way to find Klubo is to
use your detective skills and trail behind anyone who looks
like they’re off clubbing. Some regulars claim this venue is
losing its magic, though all remain fiercely loyal customers.
This is one of the busiest danceterias in town complete with
walls that drip with sweat and teeth rattling house tunes.
Filled with pictures of Lenin, wonky lampshades and sofas
salvaged from the rubbish heap this continues to serve as a
benchmark in madness, with a stint in detox recommended
to anyone left walking after the weekend. QOpen 22:00
- 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00.
Mono B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 11a, tel. 022 827 45 57.
Decorated with a Clockwork Orange era design Mono Bar
comes dolled up in vintage chocolate and carrot shades, with
big circles imprinted on the walls, and retro sofas that wouldn’t
be out of place in a 70s council flat. The crowds cool, with some
of the demure blondes being too cool for their own ego, but they
do know how to party and the weekends here can be great
fun. Expect disco, funk and house emanating from the decks.
QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (9zł). PAE
NIGHTLIFE
Paprotka B-2, pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 022 827 52 42,
www.paprotka.pl. A gigantic space split into two sections
– a dance floor, and a chillout/drinking area. The design is
quasi-kitsch, with flashing lights aplenty, a supporting pillar
made of salt and lots of bright primary colours. The owner,
the self-proclaimed Captain Sparky, frequently takes to the
decks himself playing a combo of funk, soul, hip hop and
disco. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu,
Sun. (10zł). AUX
Piekarnia D-1, ul. Młocińska 11, tel. 022 636 49 79,
www.pieksa.pl. Its been fashionable for years to call Piekarnia unfashionable, but that does nothing to stop top DJs
from playing here, and the crowds from lining up outside the
door. Out-of-the-way, but always a good night, with a very
interesting toilet as well. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. (8zł). A
Platinium Club F-2, ul. Fredry 6, tel. 022 596 46 66,
www.platiniumclub.pl. Possibly Warsaw’s next top club
comes set inside a former bank with a beautiful entrance.
Door police can be tough, but you’re guaranteed access
by waving a copy of In Your Pocket. Serious cash has been
spent inside, with glowing glass archways next to chandeliers and underfloor lighting topped with antique chairs.
Quite a masterpiece, and it comes complimented with a
decent musical menu and bar tenders who know their job.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun.
12zł. AEXW
Utopia B-3, ul. Jasna 1, tel. 022 827 15 40, www.
utopiaclub.eu. The cretins choice. Door selection is
ruthless, ensuring only idiots wearing figure hugging black
Prada get to pose inside these plastic confines of what
still, amazingly, is rated as one of Warsaw’s top clubs. The
dance floor is tiny, situated in a sharply lit white room, with
softly lit chill and rooms spidering off in different directions. Although you’ll probably see a few people locked in
naughty clinches, you can’t help but wonder if the crowds
are in reality playing gay for the night to add to their cool
points. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat
13:00 - 06:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. (10zł). AE
Irish
Bradley’s E-3, ul. Sienna 39, tel. 022 654 66 56. You’ll
need to traipse through an office block to find this bubbly
boozer that has all the familiarity of a bar run by an Irishman.
This L-shaped Irish run space is the most authentic paddy
pub in town, and comes with framed rugby shirts, live music
at the end of the week and a menu that includes obscenely
portioned breakfasts. Loners won’t find a shortage of English
accents to befriend and a satellite dish guarantees big crowds
for sporting fixtures. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. (8zł). AUEBW
Cork Irish Pub al. Niepodległości 19, tel. 022 853
00 61. Landlord Kevin has upped and left, taking his staff,
satellite dish and even the stained glass to his new downtown
venture Bradley’s. The regulars have followed, replaced by
a crowd of sketchy looking locals, leading expat wags to
re-christen this outpost Cork Polish Pub. QOpen 12:00
- 06:00. (6zł). AEW
Luztro C-4, al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Sex,
drugs and techno combine for hardcore nights at Warsaw’s
premier club for electro sounds. Dark and dirty this is a place
where walls shake and every possible space is utilized for
dancing. Expect a trendy, urban crowd, though the door police
are surprisingly liberal, allowing pretty much anyone to join
the madness. Beer comes in plastic glasses, and there’s a
constant line twitching to conduct nefarious transactions in
the toilets. Open 24hrs at the weekend, with the party finally
fading at 9am each Monday. Q Open 20:00 - 07:00. Fri, Sat,
Sun 24hrs. Closed Mon. AP
Underground Club Cafe B-3, ul. Marszałkowska
Irish Pub B-2, ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 022 826 25 33, www.
126/134, tel. 022 826 70 48, www.under.pl. The backpacker and student choice. Beer monster teenagers stagger
around to chart hits inside a design that would have looked
futuristic two decades back. Not for the serious clubber, but
always a good night out, and one of the best places to finish the
night with a variety of unidentified numbers added to your phone.
QOpen 13:00 - 05:00, Sun 16:00 - 05:00. (9zł). AE
irishpub.fip.pl. Despite the name, despite the Guinness and
despite the rowdy atmosphere, the only English accents you’ll
hear will come from tourists and travellers who have wondered
in out of curiosity. A weather-beaten interior adorned with
frayed posters isn’t dissimilar to the pubs once found on the
Emerald Isle, but Warsaw’s expats will rarely acknowledge
this place even exists, let alone frequent it. QOpen 11:00
- 04:00. (7zł). AEGW
Milch Supper Club B-4, ul. Hoża 50, tel. 022 745 05
Most bars with a screen will subscribe to Canal + Sport,
a channel that not only has intensive coverage of the
local sides, but also shows English Premiership games
each Saturday and Sunday. The only downside is the
droll Polish commentary rattling on in the background.
If you demand Sky Sports then Warsaw has a number of
decent options. First off, SomePlace Else in the Sheraton
(G-3, ul. Prusa 2) has a set of screens stationed around a
square bar – ideal for chat. Downside: sound frequently
turned down, especially in the evenings.
Champions in the Marriott (B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79) is
a long-standing favourite, with over 30 TVs relaying multiple
channels, enabling you to keep track of several games at
the same time. Although huge, it’s also hugely popular so
we recommend you book a table in advance if there’s a
particularly big international or Champions League match
on. Close by Bradley’s (E-3, ul. Sienna 39) offers a proper
pub environment to view the pick of games beamed in from
a huge dish. Be warned though, if there’s a clash between
rugby and football, rugby wins. Finally, Bar Below (B-4, ul.
Marszałkowska 64) have four satellite dishes relaying sport,
as well as a series of screens located around the bar; if it’s
on, you’re guaranteed to catch the action.
60. Spread around several cellar rooms, this place straddles
the club/bar line: club quality DJs (including plenty of imported
big names) and sound but no dancefloor. The toilet is baffling,
and the VIP room comes with pieces of expensive designer
art - do your best to get past the velvet rope and you’ll be
richly rewarded: not by the prices mind, the bar is 20% more
expensive, with prices occasionally made up on the spot.
Supposedly hugely popular with celebs, the men here are
either Italian, or want to be Italian, while the ladies are the
sort who spend their days stressing over which shoes to
pair with their handbag. A must see. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00.
Closed Sun. AW
Organza B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 022 827 50 70,
www.kluborganza.pl. Cramped and sweaty dance floor
downstairs, deeps sofas on the ground floor and a mezzanine
level thoughtfully provided to keep an eye on prospective
partners. Organza was once hugely trendy, now it’s just hugely
popular, essentially with people in good jobs who like to misbehave every now and again. The DJs record bag includes lots
of Latin, funk and disco, sounds which pretty girls in Warsaw
seemingly love to gyrate too. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (9zł). A
Football on the box
Patrick’s B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 31, tel. 022 628 93 71.
An essential stop off if you want to mingle with local headcases and British stag groups. Expats tend to know better
and avoid this grotty pub, and we’ve heard several libelous
stories circling on the grapevine about this bar. All we’ll say is
be careful with who you choose to drink with. QOpen 10.00
- 05:00. (8zł). AE
Jazz
Blender Bar B-2, pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 022 331 89
00. Found inside Norman Foster’s award-winning Metropolitan
the interior fits nicely with the host building; all red leather
seating and curving walls. Evenings are when the bar part in
Blender Bar comes to the fore, when the local jazz talent dons
trupmets and entertains a young crowd. At weekends 60zł
buys all you can drink. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 09:00
- 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (9zł). AUB
Bojangles Bar & Lounge B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 45
(Polonia Palace Hotel), tel. 022 318 28 33, www.bojangles.pl. A slick bar with a jazz policy and black and white
prints of music heroes on the walls. It’s definitely nice to see
hotel bars now making an effort to be different, and Bojangles
delivers high standards you’d demand from an upmarket hotel.
QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (14zł). ARUE
Jazz Bistro G-4, ul. Piękna 20, tel. 022 627 41 51,
www.jazzbistro.pl. Glossy venture aimed and packaged
towards a smart-casual set of customers. An attractive
interior, strong cocktails and frequent live performances that
are never loud enough to disturb conversation. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (8zł). AUEBXW
Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka B-2, ul. Piwna 40, tel. 022
887 87 64, www.jazzbistro.pl. Spotless whitewashed
archways and vaulted ceilings are cheered up by trimmed
shrubs, and then there’s the show-stealing cobble-floored,
glass covered atrium. Very striking. Live performances most
evenings. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (9zł). JAEBX
Jazz Café Helicon B-2, ul. Freta 45/47, tel. 022 635
95 05. A top jazz venue that’s reopened following a full refit to
grant it a new lease of life. The black and white floor tiles can
get slippy with spilt beer but what else can you expect from
an atmospheric jazz dive. Trumpets dangle above tables occupied by music fans, while a dividing wall has been knocked
through to soak in the extra customers. The live music nights
are red hot and reason enough to visit an area that goes to
sleep the moment night sets. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 01:00. (7zł). JAEB
Nu Jazz Bistro C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 022 621 89
89, www.jazzbistro.pl. A cavernous bar decorated sparingly
with slick furnishings and attractive staff. Good cocktails,
served by proficient bartenders, and a strong fusion menu.
The occasional jazz performances can be excellent, and
the basement bar features comfortable seating and a big
screen for sports action. Neither loud nor lively, expect the
tables to be occupied by couples with single roses in front
of them. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.
(10zł). AEBXW
Tygmont
B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 022 828 34 09, www.
tygmont.com.pl. The music comes first inside this basic
brick basement. Things get dark and loud but the weekend
jazz performances can be memorable as chanteuses take
to the stage as smoke swirls around them. A cellar location
and shadowy coat check guy give it all the atmosphere of a
speakeasy. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 05:00.
(9zł). AE
Microbreweries
Bierhalle D-1, al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia Shopping
Mall), tel. 022 323 68 55, www.bierhalle.pl. Decorated
with an industrial motif, and dominated by a giant, tailor-made
glass brewing machine, this easily ranks as the best microbrewery in Poland. Upstairs a more Bavarian theme prevails
with waiters in lederhosen and sausages imported from Germany. It’s the beer that is the magnet though, and you won’t
leave until you’re completely plastered. You may not want to
leave at all. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat
10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (18zł). AUEGW
BrowArmia
F-2, ul. Królewska 1, tel. 022 826 54 55, www.browarmia.pl. Warsaw’s other microbrewery, and definitely a
poor relation to Bierhalle. BrowArmia has a decent design,
with all the tanks and dials on display, but shares little of the
buzzing atmosphere of its rival. With so many tables seemingly set aside for dining BrowArmia lacks the clinking glasses
and raised voices, while sour service, and a particularly stern
hostess at the door, do little to improve matters. As for the
beer? Most people seem to be happy to move on after one.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10zł). AUE
April - May 2007
69
70
GAY WARSAW
While Poland is one of the few countries in which homosexuality has never been punished by state law, do not for
one moment think you have entered a gay friendly nation.
Centuries of hardcore Catholicism matched with provincial
attitudes have conspired to create an atmosphere where
homosexuality is still regarded as morally incorrect by a vast
number of the population.
Warsaw, a thriving capital city with a blossoming international
population does however offer a far more tolerant understanding; only a few years back a pride march in Kraków – Poland’s
self-proclaimed capital of culture – ended in bloody street
battles after being ambushed by local thugs and extremists.
In Warsaw, last year, a similar march went off peacefully, in
spite of the veiled threats from a hundred or so skinheads.
The march, banned for the previous two years by city authorities, was deemed a success, and attended peacefully by over
two thousand demonstrators.
Whether or not attitudes are softening remains open to
debate. Both the prime minister, Jarosław Kaczyński, and his
president and twin, Lech Kaczyński, have stirred discontent;
the latter by proclaiming homosexuality as being ‘unnatural’
and the former for declaring homosexuals should be banned
from taking teaching posts. Harsh sentiments, but not nearly
as malignant as the ones voiced by LPR politician Wojciech
Wierzejski whose memorable rants reasoned ‘gays should
be bludgeoned… they are all paedophiles and members
of the mafia’.
Yet by the same rule inroads into bigotry are being made.
In 2004 Poland had its first gay wedding (not officially recognized), and the following year Warsaw’s public transport
body became the first company to officially acknowledge
homosexual relationships by giving gay employees and their
partners the right to free transport. Although Warsaw, as yet,
offers no natural centre for the gay community this can’t be
taken as a sign of something more sinister – even the straight
scene struggles to boast any area that can be regarded as a
true nightlife hub such as Barcelona’s Las Ramblas.
While public demonstrations of affection are at best tolerated,
at worst dangerous, the city offers numerous gay friendly
venues; whether they be the trendy Między Nami café (C-4,
ul. Bracka 4), the expat Tex-Mex favourite the Warsaw Tortilla
Factory (B-4, ul. Wilcza 46) or full on techno hangouts like
Luztro (C-4, al. Jerozolimskie 6). For gays in Poland the road
ahead remains a long one, but for a country that still listed
homosexuality as a disease up until 1991 the nation has
already started cautiously edging forward. For further info
on gay life in Poland click to the English-language website
www.gayguide.net.
Gay venues
Fantom C-4, ul. Bracka 20a (enter through the courtyard), tel. 022 828 54 09, www.gay.pl/fantom. The
oldest existing gay venue in Warsaw can be found down a
dark courtyard on Bracka occupying the basement of a prewar palace. Two separate entrances here. Ring the buzzer
on the right hand side of the building and descend the stairs
to access their sauna. On entry you’ll be handed a pair of
nasty flip-flops and a threadbare towel. Inside find a bar area,
and a long corridor that leads to a scummy looking jacuzzi,
dark room and sauna. It might be getting murky, but this is
definitely the choice of sauna for many of the capitals queers.
The left hand entrance leads to a more fully-clothed area with
a popular bar, a couple of cinema screens and a labyrinth.
QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Fri 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 14:00 - 05:00,
Sun 16:00 - 03:00. (6zł). A
HISTORY
Galeria A-3, al. Jana Pawła II (Hala Mirowska). One of
the best clubs to open in Warsaw for a long while. Ring the
bell, and if the reflective door swings open you can count
yourself as being one cool cat. Situated in the basement of
Hala Mirowska the Galeria is predominantly gay but can count
itself hetero-friendly. To call the interior bare bones would be
being generous – ordinary lighting with a few scabby sofas
thrown around. The atmosphere is something else, however,
and not unlike something found in a Berlin haunt. Fetish parties, drag nights, karaoke etc, all enjoyed by urban characters
pilled off their heads. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00.
Galla A-3, ul. Ptasia 2, tel. 022 652 19 86, www.galla.
zip.pl. A modern sauna downstairs, complete with curtained
off showers, steam room, lounge area and a pitch black
labyrinth. Upstairs a communal video area with a giant vinyl
mattress. Men only on most days, apart from Sunday’s which
see lesbians and curious couples welcomed. QOpen 14:00 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
Early fortified settlements on the site of today’s Warsaw
were Brodńo (dating from possibly as early as the 9th
century) and Jazdów (12th century). History books suggest
that the Duke of Płock stayed on the grounds of a small
village called Warszowa after a raid on Jazdów in 1281. In
the 14th century it became one of the seats of the Mazovian
Knights, and in 1413 Janusz the Elder made Warsaw his main
residence, signaling its rise to prominence. In 1526 Warsaw
was incorporated into the Polish crown and the town rapidly
grew in size and stature.
1569 Poland and Lithuania are united and parliament shifts
from Kraków to the more centrally located Warsaw.
1655 - 1660 sees prolonged warfare with Sweden.
1700 - 1721 The Great Northern War sees Polish forces run
ragged by the Swedes and Russians.
solutely diminutive in size, this three level bar can be found
squeezed between a police station and furniture store. A
relaxed atmosphere reigns, with the sheer size of this place
meaning it’s not hard to get find conversation. QOpen
16:00 - 24:00.
1764 Stanisław August Poniatowski becomes king. His finest
hour comes in 1791 with the signing of a constitution that
promises sweeping reforms. Russia invades in 1792 to quash
the constitution and in 1793 the Second Partition of Poland
promises the end of the Polish state.
Rasko E-2, ul. Krochmalna 32a, tel. 022 890 02 99,
1795 Austria, Russia and Prussia impose a third partition of
Poland, effectively ending Polish independence.
Tomba Tomba B-1, ul. Brzozowa 37, tel. 022 831 95 39.
A cracking little club, one of the friendliest and best in town.
Four levels of hedonistic carnage. Dance-floor and gallery
seating area on the ground floor and chill-out bar on the first
floor. Top floor houses only a huge bed and find a party-sized
jacuzzi in the basement. Surprisingly this means it’s a gay
club but they’re very hetrofriendly. Free ice-cream all night
and open far later than is healthy. Bring sunglasses, walking
out on Saturday morning hurts. QOpen 22:00 - 12:00, Sun
21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. (7zł). BGW
Utopia
B-3, ul. Jasna 1, tel. 022 827 15 40, www.utopia.waw.pl.
The cretins choice. Door selection is ruthless, ensuring only
idiots wearing figure hugging black Prada get to pose inside
these plastic confines of what still, amazingly, is rated as one
of Warsaw’s top clubs. The dance floor is tiny, situated in a
sharp lit white room, with softly lit chill rooms spidering off in
different directions. Although you’ll probably see a few people
locked in naughty clinches, you can’t help but wonder if the
crowds are in reality playing gay for the night to add to their
cool points. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat
13:00 - 06:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. (10zł). AE
The law
The legal situation is simple; age of consent is the same
as for straight couples: 15. Adoption by homosexuals is
not permitted, and though marriage is not recognized
there are no legal issues associated with being registered
as a gay couple. As with straight people, prostitution is
not illegal, simply because there is not a law against it.
What is illegal however is pimping, so forget any fast-cash
scenarios you may have hatched.
1945 Poland falls under the Soviet sphere of influence
- business is nationalized; political and religious leaders are
imprisoned and deported. From 1945 onward Poland falls
under the Soviet sphere of influence. Business is nationalized
and political and religious leaders are imprisoned. With much
of the capital, Warsaw, in ruins, Łódź is used as Poland’s
temporary capital until 1948. In 1947 the Communists
consolidate a political monopoly after rigged elections. In
1955 the Warsaw Pact is created and Warsaw’s Palace of
Culture is completed.
1596 King Sigismund III Vasa moves his court to Warsaw.
Lodi Dodi C-4, ul. Wilcza 23, tel. 0 506 82 53 83. Ab-
www.rasko.pl. A vaguely fun gay bar hosting regular exhibitions, poetry readings as well as less cerberal disco nights
and drag shows. Filled with sofas, plants and lampshades,
Rasko has plenty of appeal and an entrance policy that Utopia
should take note of. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. (7zł). AE
1945 January 17 - Soviet and Polish units enter the rubble
of Warsaw. Total destruction stands at 84%, civilian losses
are estimated at over 700,000.
1807 Napoleon’s troops enter Warsaw and a semiindependent Duchy of Warsaw is created. Following the
collapse of Napoleon’s campaign in Russia, the 1815
congress of Vienna rules that Warsaw is to come under
Imperial Russian tutelage, effectively wiping Poland off the
map for over a century.
November 23, 1830 An armed uprising in Warsaw takes the
Russians until September 1831 to crush.
Władysław Gomułka becomes Poland’s premier in 1956
and a political thaw begins. Events in Gdańsk are the first to
rock the system; protesting about plunging living standards
workers at the Lenin Shipyards call a strike in 1970, with the
army promptly called in to intervene. Bloody clashes lead to
the deaths of 44 workers, and ultimately force Gomułka out
of power. The late 1970s witness a dramatic drop in living
standards and spiraling prices; a half-mad economic policy
propped up by foreign loans is exposed as useless. 1978
sees Cardinal Karol Wojtyła elected as Pope and taking the
name John Paul II. The following year he returns for a nine
day tour of his native Poland in what is regarded by many as
the pivotal point in the collapse of communism. Preaching
32 sermons in nine days his brief return offers hope and
unity to Poles, and lights the flame that will later explode in
the Solidarność (Solidarity) revolution.
1980 A general strike is called in August by the fledgling
Solidarność trade union, led by shipyard electrician Lech
Wałęsa.
1981 Martial law is declared by the Minister of Defence
General Jaruzelski on December 13.
1982 Solidarność is outlawed by the government.
1863 - 1864 Citizens of Warsaw again try and fail to topple
the governing Russian government in what becomes known
as the January Insurrection. Warsaw flourishes for the next
half a century under Mayor Starykiewicz.
1918 The end of World War I leads to the collapse of the
partitioning powers. Polish hero Józef Piłsudski is released
from detention in Germany and assumes control of Poland.
Warsaw is once again the capital of an independent
Poland.
1920 Bolshevik troops invade Poland, but are beaten back
after the epic Battle of Warsaw, effectively saving post-WWI
Europe from the Red Army.
1921 The foundation of the first modern Polish constitution and
beginning of what is commonly called the 2nd Polish Republic.
1939 August 23 - The Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact is signed.
Based around Soviet/German non-aggression it effectively
carves Poland up between the two. Poland is invaded
on September 1, with the first gunshots fired on the
Westerplatte Peninsula in the north, signaling the start of
WWII. On September 16 the east of Poland is invaded by the
USSR, and Poland capitulates six weeks later.
1944 August 1 – Poland’s Home Army launches the Warsaw
Uprising with the intention of liberating Warsaw from Nazi
occupation. It ends in defeat two months later with the
city in ruins.
1983 Martial law is lifted in July and most political leaders
released from prison. Lech Wałęsa receives the Nobel
Peace Prize.
1985-88 Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev’s perestroika
reforms initiate a period of liberalization, though economic
crisis and popular frustration continue to deepen.
1989 Following more strikes Solidarność is legalized. Partlyfree elections are held. Solidarność sweeps the elections and
the Communist regime collapses.
1990 Lech Wałęsa becomes the first popularly-elected
president of post-Communist Poland.
2004 Poland enters the European Union on May 1, 2004
sparking a mass exodus of young Poles seeking their
fortune.
2005 April 2 Following a long battle with illness Pope John
Paul II passes away. His funeral in the Vatican is attended
by a million Poles.
Guide to Poland’s key cities:
April - May 2007
71
72
WHAT TO SEE
Essential Warsaw
If time is of the essence then do your best to hit these
must-sees of Warsaw: A walk around the streets of Old
Town is a must, and a visit to the Historical Museum
of Warsaw in the Rynek will give you a good outline of
the history of the city. Warsaw’s defining landmark is the
Palace of Culture and Science (PKiN) right in the city
centre, and you’ll find the best views in the city on the
top floor panorama level. Possibly no other city was effected more by WWII than Poland’s capital. The Warsaw
Uprising Museum – one of the best museums in the
country - is an essential stop for those looking to learn
about the most tragic episode in the history of the city.
A visit to the Gestapo-run Pawiak Prison proves equally
powerful, while those looking for traces of the cities Jewish past should visit the vast and overgrown graveyard
on ul. Okopowa. For something a little less depressing
take a trip to the other side of the river to witness first
hand the weirdness otherwise known as the Russian
Market. Last but not least, Łazienki Park and Palace
afford a glimpse of Imperial Poland, and a walk around
the grounds makes for a pleasant afternoon. Art lovers
should make a beeline to Warsaw’s Zachęta Gallery, one
of the leading contemporary galleries in the country, and
frequently the site of top notch exhibitions.
Places of interest
Fotoplastikon F-3, al. Jerozolimskie 51, tel. 022 625
35 52, www.fotoplastikon.stereos.com.pl. Fotoplastikon
allows people to glimpse life throughout 20th century Warsaw
via a selection of 3D images. During both wars it was fully
operational, acting as contact point for the Polish underground
during Nazi occupation. The show lasts around 20 minutes.
QOpen 15:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Wed,
Fri, Sun. Admission 20/10zł.
Gestapo HQ (Mauzoleum Walki i Męczeństwa) G-4,
al. Szucha 25, tel. 022 629 49 19, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl. Every bit as disturbing as Pawiak is the former
Gestapo HQ, found on al. Szucha 25. Built between 1927 and
1930, the building’s original purpose was to serve as a centre
for religious beliefs. In 1939 it came under control of the Nazi
regime, and for the next five years became one of the most
feared addresses in Poland operating, among other capacities,
as a brutal interrogation centre. The imposing building, currently
housing the Ministry of Education, was left untouched by the
carnage of war and now also holds a small but sobering museum within its bowels. Cells, where prisoners were held prior
to interrogation, have been left largely as they were. Known as
‘trams,’ Poles would be sat on wooden benches facing the wall
as they awaited their fate. Forbidden to eat or sleep, they were
compelled to sit motionless in darkness, sometimes for days
on end. Failure to do so would lead to almost certain death. The
bullet marks scarring the walls tell their own harrowing story.
Although the torture cells have long since been blocked off, the
English language tape that the curator plays paints a vivid and
repulsive picture. Prisoners were subjected to savage beatings, attacked with dogs and electrocuted. Those who didn’t
co-operate would, in some cases, be forced to watch their own
families being tortured. The office where prisoners would have
been ‘checked in’ also remains, complete with a faded portrait
of Hitler and battered issues of Wehrmacht magazine lying
around. Manacles, bullwhips and other sinister instruments
can also be seen stacked on the bookshelf. QOpen, Wed
09:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free.
WHAT TO SEE
Mariensztat C-2. Cut off from the rest of the Old Town by
National holidays
the intersecting Trasa W-Z, the Mariensztat area was rebuilt
after the war using a totally different street plan. When it
was unveiled in 1948 it became the first housing complex
to be completed in post-war Warsaw. Lying between ul.
Bednarska and ul. Dobra, the picturesque neighbourhood is
full of small parks and winding streets and provides a leafy
retreat from the crowds of Old Town. In previous centuries
Mariensztat was notorious for its bordellos and bare-knuckle
boxing matches, today it ranks as one of Warsaw’s most
engaging districts.
Pawiak Prison
A-2, ul. Dzielna
24/26, tel. 022
831 92 89, www.
muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl. Built
in th e 1830s to
ser ve as a Tsarist prison, Pawiak
came to the fore
during WWII when
it slipped into the
hands of the Gestapo. During the
Nazi occupation it
became the largest political prison
in Poland and saw
over 100,000
inmates pass
through its gates.
O f t hi s numb er,
over 37,000 were
executed within the grounds, while a further 60,000 were
transported to extermination camps. Subterranean cells
designed to house three people were often crammed with
anything up to 18 prisoners. Dynamited during the German
retreat, Pawiak has been restored as a memorial to all
those who suffered inside, and now houses haunting photo
displays, prisoners belongings and reconstructed cells. A
metal tree stands outside the gates bedecked with obituary notices dating from 1944. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Wed
09:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission free.
Royal Castle (Zamek Królewski) B-2, pl. Zamkowy
4, tel. 022 657 21 70, www.zamek-krolewski.com.pl.
More a palace than a castle, this building is the pride of
Warsaw, reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible
cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was
donated by now deceased commie buddies such as the
GDR and USSR, and much of the money for rebuilding came
from generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back
to the 14th century, the castle had been the residence of
Polish kings, then of the president and then the seat of
parliament. The prescribed tour will take you through the
Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with
paintings of famous Polish moments. Maps on the wall
reflect Poland’s greatest days, when it stretched from
the Baltic to the Black Sea. Some of the halls are reputed
to be intermittently haunted by a ‘white lady.’ According
to legend her appearance signals imminent disaster. The
nearby chapel boasts an urn containing the heart of Polish
hero and freedom fighter, Tadeusz Koścuiszko. Next on
the tour, the Houses of Parliament. Last but not least, the
opulent Great Assembly Hall has so much gold stuck to the
walls, it’s hard to resist the temptation to scratch some off
- just a bit, they wouldn’t notice. Behave or get accosted
by vigilant wardens and enjoy the views across the river
to the Praga district instead. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 18/12zł, Sun free.
Guides 85zł.
The Citadel ul. Skazańców 25, tel. 022 839 12 68,
Powązki Catholic Cemetery
D-1, ul. Powązkowska 14, tel. 022 633 21 40. Warsaw’s
biggest, oldest and most beautiful cemetery. Famous corpses
include the poet Leopold Staff, aviators Żwirko and Wigura,
and Nobel prize winner Władysław Reymont. It also contains
the ‘grave’ of Stefan Starzyński, the mayor of Warsaw at the
time of the German invasion. His body was never recovered
after he was detained by the Gestapo. Vast areas of the
cemetery are taken up by Home Army soldiers killed during
the Uprising. Q Open 08:00 - dusk.
Tourist information
Tourist Information A/B-4, Dworzec Centralny
train station, tel. 022 94 31, www.warsawtour.
pl. Also in the Okęcie Airport international arrivals and
Etiuda Terminal (open 08:00 - 18:00) and ul. Krakowskie
Przedmieście 39 (open 09:00-18:00). Accurate information, though they refuse to stock In Your Pocket on account of our gay listings. Don’t let them palm you off with
cheap imitations.QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
www.muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl. Built in the wake of
the 1830 November Insurrection, the Warsaw Citadel was
commissioned by Tsar Nicholas I to serve as a fortress for
the occupying Russian garrison - and as a political prison
and execution ground. Housing as many as 16,000 troops,
the main purpose of the citadel was to deter and quash any
patriotic movement within the city. Of the 40,000 prisoners
who have passed through its gates, familiar names include
national hero Józef Piłsudski, communist agitator ‘Red’ Rosa
Luxembourg and Feliks Dzierżyński - the monster who would
progress to become head of the Russian secret police. As
well as being a supreme example of 19th century fortress
architecture, the 36 hectare site has several points of interest. The labyrinth of tunnels and prison cells have been well
preserved and contain numerous exhibits, including paintings,
prison relics and firearms. On the outside is a small arsenal
of heavy-duty military equipment, including T-34 and T-54
tanks, and a Katyusha rocket launcher (a.k.a Stalin’s organ).
Also of note are a Nazi bunker dating from 1940, a symbolic
cemetery, and The Gate of Execution - it’s here that Polish
heroes Traugutt and Dąbrowski were executed in front of a
crowd of 30,000 in 1864. QOpen 09:00 - 15:30. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission free.
A deeply Catholic country Poland takes its Easter
celebrations more seriously than most; this is no time for the
bunny. Falling this year on April 8 the visiting foreigner can
expect to find most bars and restaurants closed on this and
the following day, and the streets largely deserted. Many
moons back housewives were forbidden from baking bread
in the week leading up to Palm Sunday, and flouting this rule
would allegedly lead to a poor harvest. Those caught doing
so would find themselves dispatched into the nearest pond
and though the Poles have lightened up since those times
visitors should note that much of the period is marked by
solemn adherence to tradition. The Saturday before Easter
sees the natives taking baskets of food to their local church
to have them blessed, while the Easter Friday is used as
a time to paint eggs and bake cakes. In medieval times
Saturday was a favourite day to torch anyone unfortunate
enough to be identified as a witch, though nowadays the
day is marked with processions and church services. Come
Easter Sunday and the whole family gathers around the
table to enjoy a feast of white sausage, bigos and poppy
seed cake. A symbolic lamb, usually made from dough, is
placed on the table to symbolize the resurrection. Now, a
warning. The next day is the marvelously titled Śmingus
Dyngus, a day when people are given carte blanche to
drench anyone they see with water. You, as a foreigner,
are not exempt from this practice, so move fast if you see
someone armed with a water pistol and a grin. But while
it’s never nice to have a jug of water launched on your head,
it is at least a vast improvement on the past when young
people would be beaten with sticks.
May 1 and May 3 are also designated state holidays and
seeing that this year they fall on Tuesday and Thursday
respectively you can expect any Pole with any sense to
worm their way out of work and take the whole week
off to live the high life. The May 1 holiday was known
as Labour Day during communist rule, with parades,
concerts and other public gatherings to celebrate the
glories and triumphs of the socialist system. In the wake
of the political changes post 1989 the Polish government
voted to keep this day a public holiday, only without any
red flag nonsense.
May 3 on the other hand has far more historical
importance. It was on this day that the Polish Sejm
(parliament) signed what was to become Europe’s first
national constitution (and the second in the world) in
Warsaw’s Royal Castle back in 1791. Introducing political
equality between the bourgeoisie and the nobility it also
placed the peasant class under the protection of the
government, thereby guaranteeing them safety from
abuse from their aristocratic masters. It was under the rule
of Poland’s last king, Stanisław August Poniatowski that
this happened, with him describing the act as ‘founded
principally on those of England and the United States, but
avoiding the faults and errors of both’. These sweeping
social reforms however sparked suspicion in Poland’s
neighbours, who feared the economic, patriotic and
military rise of a country so long suppressed by them. On
May 18, 1792, Russian troops entered Poland and by 1795
the country was carved up once more by invading powers.
When the act was initially signed the day was declared a
public holiday, however under the ensuing partitions it was
outlawed. When Poland regained independence in 1918 it
became a holiday once more, though was then outlawed
first by the occupying Nazis, and then by the communists.
The holiday was only restored as a public holiday in 1990
following the fall of communism.
April - May 2007
73
74
WHAT TO SEE
WHAT TO SEE
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/
CSW) G-4, al. Ujazdowskie 6, tel. 022 628 12 71
exp.108, www.csw.art.pl. Completed in a baroque style in
1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII. Though the
original walls and foundations remained structurally sound the
communist authorities decided to tear down the shell of the
building with the intention of building a military theatre on the
site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s saw Ujazdowski
rebuilt following its original style. Used as a military hospital
in the years leading up to the war, there are now three large
exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing the very best of
contemporary art inside the wonderful Ujazdowski Castle;
find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring
the work of Poland’s leading contemporary artists. Worthy
and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery also houses a very
good bookshop and a café. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Fri 11:00
- 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free.
View Tower (St Anne’s Church) B-2, ul. Krakowskie
Przedmieście 68, tel. 022 828 31 01. Inch your way up
the spirals stairs and you’ll be rewarded with some great
panoramic views of town. On one side you’ll be able to admire
Old Town and on the other, a skyline dominated by cranes and
skyscrapers. Top-drawer stuff, and much more scenic than
the view from the Palace of Culture. Q Only open in good
weather. Admission 3/2zł.
Churches
Holy Cross Church C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście
3, tel. 022 826 89 10. Completed in 1696 after the original
church that stood here was destroyed during the Swedish
Deluge of the 1650s, the vast and astonishing Baroque Holy
Cross Church is a feast for the eyes, heart and soul. Brimming
with spectacular golden altars, the church was like so many
in Warsaw devastated during WWII. Painstakingly rebuilt at
the end of the war, among the building’s many outstanding
features most famous is the fact that it’s the final resting
place of Chopin’s heart (the rest of him being in Paris’ famous
Père Lachaise cemetery).
Church of St. Hyacinth (Kościół św. Jacka) B-1, ul.
Freta 8/10. This nice little Baroque church was built for the
Dominicans between 1603 and 1639 by the architect Joannes
Italus. Of particular interest inside the predominantly white interior is the Chapel of St. Dominic. Paid for by the Kotowski family
and designed by Poland’s greatest late-17th-century architect,
Tylman van Gameren, the chapel was one of the few parts of
the church to survive the war. During the Warsaw Uprising the
church was used as a hospital and was almost completely
destroyed in 1944. Its current form dates from 1959.
Jesuit Church & Crypt B-2, ul. Świętojańska 10. Built
at the behest of King Zygmunt III Waza’s confessor, Piotr
Skarga, this lovely little Renaissance church was built between
1609 and 1626 for the city’s Jesuit community. Having had
something of a varied and colourful history to say the least,
it suffered at the hands of the Swedes in the latter half of
the 17th century, who looted it of its entire contents, and
even spent time as a storehouse during the Partitions. Also
known as the Holy Mother of Grace Church after the city’s
patron saint, the church was returned to the Jesuits at the
end of WWI only to be destroyed by the Germans in 1944.
Rebuilt between 1948 and 1957, of the few remaining original
parts of the interior, of particular interest is the 17th-century
picture of the Holy Mother herself. The crypt, which is entered
through the bookshop to the left of the church, contains the
remains of Prince Karol Ferdynand Waza and Maciej Kazimierz
Sarbiewski (1595-1640), the Jesuit priest, poet and court
preacher to King Władysław IV.
St. Casimir’s Church (Kościół Sakramentek) B-1,
Jan Kiliński
Rynek Nowego Miasta, tel. 022 635 71 13. Founded by
Mary Sobieski, wife of King Jan III Sobieski, to commemorate
her husband’s victory over the Turkish army at the Gates of
Vienna. The baroque-style church was designed by Tylman
van Gameren and was completed in 1692. In 1944 it served
as a Polish field hospital, and received a direct hit from a
German bomb, killing more than 1,000 civilians, priests, nuns
and soldiers who were sheltering inside. Today it has been
fully restored and has a charred wooden cross as tribute to
those who died.
C-1, ul. Podwale. A
huge monument honouring Jan Kiliński,
a Warsaw cobbler
wh o b e cam e t h e
unlikely hero of the
1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice,
Kiliński and his troop
of peasants captured
the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence; an action that
ultimately led to his
imprisonment in St.
Petersburg. Said to
embody the Polish
virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in
1936 and originally located on pl. Krasińskich. In reprisal for an
attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński
inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy
scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of
Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was
returned to his rightful place, before being finally relocated
to ul. Podwale in 1959.
St. John’s Cathedral B-2, ul. Świetojańska 8, tel. 022
Military Cathedral B-2, ul. Długa 13/15. Comprising of
both the St. Francis of Assisi Church and monastery and built
between 1662 and 1663 by the Piarist friars, the extraordinary Military Cathedral, also known as the Church of Our
Lady Queen of the Polish Crown, is the capital’s main garrison
church. Having spent time as an Orthodox Church, prison,
orphanage and a depot for German soldiers during WWI, the
church was reconstructed based on original 17th-century
drawings after independence in 1918 and became the seat
of the field bishop of the Polish Army. Again rebuilt after its
destruction during WWII, the church is now decorated with
a peculiar mix of religious and military artefacts, including a
number of large oil paintings depicting the most well known
of Poland’s battles and uprisings.
St. Alexander’s Church C-4, pl. Trzech Krzyży, ul.
Książęca 21. Modelled on the Roman Pantheon, this church
boasts a sculpture of Christ that dates from the 18th century.
It was here that Allied secret agents met during WWII. The
church’s lower level is used for services for deaf mutes. Father
Jakub Falkowski, parish priest of St. Alexander’s, founded the
nearby Institute of Deaf Mutes and the Blind.
St. Anne’s Church B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście
68, tel. 022 826 99 77. St Anne’s survived the war with
a few token scratches and a collapsed roof, but what the
Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished by a
team of incompetent builders - by 1949 the whole church
threatened to come crashing to the ground. The thoughtless
construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel had led to several
landslides, resulting in huge cracks appearing in the floor of
the church. It took a team of 400 people two weeks of tireless
work to stabilise the undersoil and shore up the foundations.
Intriguingly, this wasn’t the first time St Anne’s had survived
vicious conflict to find disaster around the corner. It escaped
destruction during the war with Sweden (1650-1655) only to
be gutted by fire two years later, apparently the victim of an
arson attack. The classicist façade dates from 1788 and is
the design of the royal architect, Piot Aigner. The interior holds
even more classicist and rococo details. The view tower is
one of the best in Warsaw. QOpen 08:00 - 18:30.
St. Benno’s Church (Kościół św. Benona) ul. Piesza
1, tel. 022 635 70 65. Benno’s has a wacky history. King Sigismund III was devotee of St. Benno and invited peer priests
from Bavaria to Warsaw in the 17th century. Their main aim
was to support Germans living outside their home country.
Ironically, in 1944, the chapel was blown to smithereens by
you-know-who. Rebuilt by the Poles in 1958, it now has an
interesting interior dating from 1977.
831 02 89. Originally built in the 14th century, Warsaw’s
oldest house of worship is steeped in history. The last king
of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and
buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the Constitution
of May 3 inside the building. The crypt holds the bodies of
Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s
first president), as well as various Mazovian knights. Other
interesting details to look for include the covered walkway
that links the Cathedral with the Royal Castle. It was added in
1620 as a security measure following a failed assassination
attempt on King Sigismund III. As with most major landmarks,
it was the scene of heavy fighting during the 1944 Warsaw
Uprising and was subsequently left in a heap of ruins. Rebuilt
in pseudo-gothic style, the interior today boasts the gothic
artworks of Wit Stwosz. The 18th century bell that was destroyed in 1944 has since been recovered and glued together,
and can now be found in the centre of ul. Kanonia. On the
external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a Goliath
- a remote-controlled tank used by the German army. Q Open
10:00 - 13:00, 15:00-17:30, Sun 15:00 - 17:30.
Monuments
King Sigismund’s Column
B-2, pl. Zamkowy. Built in honour of the man who made
Warsaw the capital of Poland, the column was erected back
in 1664 and stands twenty two metres high. During the war
the column collapsed under bombardment and the original
now lies close to the Royal Castle (and is considered lucky to
touch). The figure of Sigismund survived and the new column
was proudly re-erected in 1949.
Adam Mickiewicz B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście
5. Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in
Poland, Mickiewicz stands out as Poland’s greatest literary
figure - as well as a figure of hope during a bleak age of Russian oppression. His defining masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a
beautifully written epic portraying Polish society in the 19th
century. His statue dominates ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście,
and traces of bullet holes dating from WWII are still visible
on the monument.
Charles de Gaulle C-4, Rondo de Gaulle’a. Charles de
Gaulle is the subject of Warsaw’s newest monument. Striding away from what was once the Commie party HQ, the
monument is a gift from the French government. A resident
of Warsaw in the 1920s, de Gaulle is a bit of a hero in these
parts for the role he played in The Battle of Warsaw in 1920.
With Europe in turmoil following the aftermath of WWI the
Red Army launched a huge military strike, aimed at enslaving the rest of Europe. The Bolsheviks expected an easy
march to Paris, but the Poles has other ideas. With the Red
Army just 23km from Warsaw Marshal Piłsudski launched a
deft action to split the Bolshevik forces in two and encircle
them. The battle raged from August 13-August 25, 1920,
with the Poles claiming a historic victory in what Woodrow
Wilson went on to describe as the ‘seventh most important
battle in history’. The Bolshevik forces were decimated,
and Europe saved. De Gaulle fought with distinction and
was awarded the highest military honour in the country,
the Virtuti Militari.
Monte Cassino Monument A-2, ul. Długa 52. The
Battle of Monte Cassino was actually a series of four
intense and sometimes controversial battles that took
place between January 20 and May 18, 1944, culminating
at a 1,300-year-old Benedictine monastery on the top of
the 1,100 metre Monte Cassino in southern Italy. After
the successful Allied landings in Italy in September 1943 a
route was needed from the Allied position north of Naples
to Rome, and the only way through was via the Liri Valley.
Blocking the valley was a mass of German-occupied hills
around the town of Cassino. Involving British, US, French,
North African, New Zealand, Ghurkha and Polish troops,
fierce battles raged against the Germans on a slow and
brutal advance towards the monastery, whose eventual
capture would give the Allied forces the access they needed
to open the road to Rome. At a cost of over 25,000 lives
including the deaths by heavy allied bombing on February
15 of a number of Italian civilians who were taking refuge
in the monastery, the final battle ended on the morning
of May 18 when a reconnaissance group of soldiers from
the Polish 12th Podolian Uhlans Regiment finally reached
what was by then an empty and completely devastated
monastery. The Battle of Monte Cassino paved the way for
the Allied advance on Rome, which fell on June 4, 1944, two
days before the Normandy invasion, and is one of Poland’s
proudest military achievements. On May 18, 1999, exactly
55 years after the event, an 8.5-metre monument designed
by the Polish sculptor Gustaw Zemła was unveiled in a small
park by just north of the (A-2) Archaeological Museum.
Resembling the outline of Italy with a number of eerie,
battle-related elements built into it, the monument also
features a pair of wings, supposedly representing Nike and
the Polish Hussars.
April - May 2007
75
76
WHAT TO SEE
Lost Warsaw
Long term residents of Mokotów will have no trouble
remembering the Supersam supermarket that once stood
at the top of (G-5) ul. Puławska. For those struggling to
recall, it looked like Warsaw train station from the outside,
and was about just as sexy from the inside. Yet when it
opened on June 6th, 1962 it was hailed as an architectural
masterpiece, even winning an honorary mention at the
Sao Paolo Biennale in 1965. Designed by Poland’s leading
architects of the day (including Jerzy Hryniewiecki, the
brains behind ‘the Russian stadium’ in Praga), the innovative
design was a major engineering project, combining lots of
steel, glass and aluminium sun screens. It became the
first self-service supermarket in Poland (the name Sam
refers to the Polish word ‘yourself’, as in do-it-yourself)
and plans were touted for a nationwide chain of Super and
Megasam’s. The grand opening, along with rumours that
fresh lemons were on sale, caused such a stampede that
the glass doors were broken by the mob that had gathered
outside. With interiors that included mosaics and abstract
murals it was to become a piece of Warsaw’s post war
history, though by the 21st century had become a very
real death trap with leaks, cracks and a corroded roof that
threatened to cave in at any moment. It was finally closed
on April 10, 2006, and in spite of a city wide campaign to
make it a listed building the bulldozers finally moved in last
December. But that’s done little to deter the Supersam fans,
and plans are already afoot to rebuild it next to al. Lotników
using materials recovered from the rubble.
WHAT TO SEE
Nicholas
Copernicus C3, ul. Krakowskie
Przedmieście. The
founder of modern
astronomy. A sheltered academic, he
made his observations a century before th e inven tion
of t h e tel e s c op e
and without help or
guidance. His book
De Revolu tionibus
(1530) posited that
the earth rotated on
its axis once a day,
travelled around the
sun once a year, and
that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. This may
seem obvious today, but it was an utterly radical idea at
the time. Although astronomers who propagated his ideas
were burnt at the stake and the Catholic church placed
De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as
1835), there was no turning back progress. The modern
cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast
universe - is this man’s legacy. The statue itself was built in
1830 and has seen its fair share of adventure. During WWII
the Nazi’s placed a bronze plaque insinuating that the great
man was in fact - gasp - a German. In 1942, a boy scout
called Alek Dawidowski, ducked the guards and removed the
plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the statue, hid
it in Silesia and dynamited a few other surrounding monuments for good measure. The statue was recovered in the
years following the war, while Dawidowski has entered Polish
folklore as a result of his bravery.
Syrena The mermaid is a symbol of Warsaw. Legend has
it Prince Kazimierz got hopelessly lost while on a hunting
expedition in the area that is now Warsaw. In a stroke of luck
a mermaid appeared and guided the hapless prince to safety
by firing burning arrows. The mermaid has remained an icon
and statues of her can be found in (C-1), Old Town Square,
(D-2), Świętokrzyski Bridge and on (C-2/3), ul. Karowa.
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier B-3, pl. Piłsudskiego.
Tours
Mazurkas Travel B-1, ul. Długa 8/14, tel. 022
389 41 82, www.mazurkas.com.pl. QOpen 08:30
- 17:00. Closed Sun.
Polish Landscape D/E-1, ul. Akademicka 3, tel.
022 824 39 11, www.polish-landscape.pl. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Trakt B-3, ul. Kredytowa 6, tel. 022 827 80 69,
www.trakt.com.pl. Warsaw’s only specialized tour guide
agency. Tours are avilable in over 20 languages - including
sign language - and cover all the major tourist sights in
Warsaw, including Łazienki and Wilanów palaces, and the
parliament building. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00
Warsaw City Tours B-3, ul. Marszałkowska 140,
tel. 022 826 71 00, www.lrc.com.pl. QOpen 08:00
- 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
The only surviving part of the destroyed Saxon Palace. The
palace was constructed during the 17th century though the
tomb was not added to the complex until 1925. Eerily, the
tomb was the only part of the structure to survive being
dynamited by the Nazis. The ashes of unknown soldiers from
WWII have been fittingly added.
To those deported and murdered in the East E-1,
intersection of Bonifraterska, Andersa and Muranowska.
Dating from 1995, and designed by Maksymilian Biskupski,
this monument remembers the victims of Soviet aggression
and all those deported to the wastes of Siberia.
Museums
Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature B-1,
Rynek Starego Miasta 20, tel. 022 831 76 91, www.
muzeumliteratury.pl. Find out about the smart Alec who
inspired Romanticism in Poland. As well as having a number
of manuscripts and historical artefacts connected with
Mickiewicz, the museum also has exhibits connected with
other leading Polish writers. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00, Wed,
Thu 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat. Admission
5/4zł, Sun free for permanent exhibit only.
Arsenał - Archeological Muzeum A-2, ul. Długa 52,
tel. 022 831 32 21, www.pma.pl. Housed inside the city’s
former Royal Arsenal, this somewhat infuriating museum was
opened in 1923 and looks like it hasn’t been touched since.
Tracing the history of the region through the use of some
nice recreations of early dwellings and the usual skeletons
and pots, the two floors that make up the museum do, it
must be said, possess one of two rather good things to see.
The problem is that everything is in Polish only, meaning that
for example the gorgeous collection of architectural and
religious pieces on the upper floor is rendered meaningless beyond its aesthetic value, which for a museum such
as this in a capital city such as this is unforgivable. The
entrance incidentally is tucked away conveniently on the far
(northern) side of the building. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Fri
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission
8/4zł, Sun free.
made during the post-war reconstruction of the Old Town
and a nice tribute to the Solidarity movement, the Warsaw
History Museum does an excellent job at cataloguing the life
and times of the city. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00
- 15:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 16:30. Closed
Mon. Admission 6/3zł, Sun free.
Katyń Museum
ul. Powsińska 13 (Fort Sadyba), tel. 022 842 66 11,
www.muzeumwp.pl. This museum documents the shocking events of 1940 when around 20,000 Polish officers were
executed by their Soviet captors. The museum has a host
of objects, documents and personal effects that have been
recovered from the site near Smolensk, Russia. There is
also a display of a variety of army equipment such as tanks
and heavy artillery. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Admission 2-4zł.
Car Museum (Muzeum Motoryzacji i Techniki) ul.
Marie Curie Museum
Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 022 758 50 67, www.
muzeum-motoryzacji.com.pl. The biggest car museum in
Poland is home to vehicles owned by Presley and Monroe,
as well as limousines once used by villains like Stalin, Beria
and the Nazi hierarchy. The collection also includes tanks,
rickshaws, motorcycles and a tractor dating from 1895.
Certain cars can be hired for special occasions. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Admission 8/5zł, children
under 7 free.
B-1, ul. Freta 16, tel. 022 831 80 92, http://muzeum.
if.pw.edu.pl. Born Maria Skłodowska on November 7, 1867,
and better known to the world as Marie Curie, this small
museum inside the building she was born in contains a charming homage to the life and work of the Nobel Prize-winning
physicist. Located in just two small rooms, artefacts include
many personal effects such as original letters and one of
Curie’s black dresses as well as a small collection of scientific
instruments and a particularly peculiar model of a nuclear
power plant. The lady who gave the world so much, including
the chemical element polonium, named after the country of
her birth, died in Savoy, France, on July 4, 1934, the victim of
leukaemia, which she is believed to have contracted during her
many years of dangerous research. QOpen 09:30 - 16:00,
Tue 08:30 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 8/3zł, with film in English 10zł.
Ethnographic Museum B-3, ul. Kredytowa 1, tel.
022 827 76 41, www.pme.art.pl. The only museum that
contains all the different national dresses of Poland. Actually
more fascinating than it perhaps sounds. QOpen 09:00
- 16:00, Wed 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Closed every 1st weekend of the month. Admission
8/4zł. Wed free.
Firemen’s Museum A-3, ul. Chłodna 3, tel. 022 620
É½ºÃÊÂ·ºÇ¦¾ÃÅÄÁ¶Ã¹
98 27. The first organised fire brigade began operations in
Warsaw in 1836, and this fabulous little museum records
its intriguing and often disturbing history. Featuring several
themed rooms, exhibits include medals, helmets, a chilling
collection of ordinary household items destroyed by fire,
fire engines galore and numerous accounts of bravery.
Tricky to find, the museum is also somewhat confusingly
locked during opening times. To get in, press the bottom,
unmarked bell and wait. Brochures featuring the history of
Warsaw’s firemen in English are available for free inside
the museum. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Admission free.
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Fryderyk Chopin Museum C-3, ul. Okólnik 1, tel.
022 827 54 73, www.nifc.pl. Over four thousand Chopin
artefacts including piles of letters, exercise books, his gold
watch and the last piano he ever played. Opened in 1953,
the museum is also home to an award that a 14 year old
Chopin received for good behaviour at school. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, Wed free.
Historical Museum of Warsaw B-1, Rynek Starego
Miasta 42, tel. 022 635 16 25, www.mhw.pl. With
over 60 rooms packed with scores of fascinating exhibits,
Warsaw’s amazing History Museum deserves not only a visit
but a long one at that. Charting the many ups and downs
of the city since its beginnings, this maze-like monstrosity
features a galaxy of delights including the prerequisite broken
pots, fragments of old clothing, a reconstructed 17th-century
printing house, musical instruments and an exquisitely over
the top Gothic wardrobe. Via the plaque put onto Copernicus’
statue by the Germans during WWII through a display of finds
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April - May 2007
77
78
WHAT TO SEE
Museum of Asia and Pacific H-3, ul. Solec 24, tel. 022
629 67 24, www.muzeumazji.pl. Not the sort of museum
you’d expect to find in the middle of Poland. Nevertheless
it’s a fascinating place full of art, swords and religious artefacts. Other locations: ul. Freta 5, tel. 022 635 28 11, open
13:00 - 19:00, Wed & Thu 11:00 - 17:00, closed Mon; ul.
Nowogrodzka 18a, tel. 022 629 24 41, open 13:00 - 19:00,
Tue & Thu 12:00 - 18:00, closed Sat & Sun. Q Admission
5/3zł, Thu free.
Museum of Independence (Muzeum
Niepodległości) F-2, al. Solidarności 62, tel. 022 826
90 91, www.muzeum.zk.pl. Rather ironically, the museum
that charts Poland’s struggle for freedom was home to the
Lenin Museum during communist rule. Celebrating Polish
patriotism, the museum covers all the key dates of Polish
history, including the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising, the 19th
century insurrections, Piłsudski’s return to Poland, WWII and
the rise of Solidarity. Among the 48,000 exhibits are objects
recovered from WWII concentration camps, and some wonderful displays of Socialist Realist artwork. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
5/3zł. Sun free.
Museum of Technology (Muzeum Techniki) B-4,
pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel. 022 656 67 47, www.muzeumtechniki.waw.pl. A vast collection dedicated to the history of
everything technological inside the equally enormous Palace
of Culture & Science, the only thing missing here is a map.
Truly huge, and clearly laid out by somebody with a sadistic
sense of humour, the scores of rooms scattered willy nilly and
organised with what appears to be a contemptuous disregard
for reason and logic, highlights include a superbly stylish
electric car for children made in France in 1955, a cavalcade
of impossible-looking motorbikes and aeroplanes, a room
packed with 19th-century musical boxes, a highly amusing
1951 MIG jet flight simulator and a small exhibition celebrating
space exploration that could do with some serious updating.
Decorated with lace curtains and staffed by an army of sinister-looking old ladies, you won’t learn a thing no matter how
hard you try, but it’s a strangely rewarding experience that
really has to be seen to be believed. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł.
National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) C-4, al.
Jerozolimskie 3, tel. 022 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl.
Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre inter-war building, Warsaw’s National Museum is a must for anyone visiting
the city. Dating from 1862 and operating under its current
name since 1916, among the huge array of permanent
exhibitions, highlights include some wonderful pieces from
world antiquity, a wealth of delightful 15th-century Dutch
and Flemish paintings and several galleries of Polish art from
the 16th century onwards, including some of the best work
by the country’s leading early 20th-century artists such as
Witkiewicz, Makowski and Szczepkowski. Also on display are
some fine examples of furniture and decorative arts inside
the Gallery of Polish Decorative Art. Highly recommended.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 17/10zł for entire
museum; 12/7zł for permanent exhibit only. Sat free for
permament exibition only.
Polish Army Museum (Muzeum Wojska Polskiego)
C-4, al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. 022 629 52 71, www.
muzeumwp.pl. The chronological history of the Polish army
is presented in a series of gloomy rooms. Suits of armour,
crossbows, muskets, medals and paintings pack this museum, though the absence of English-language explanations
mean you’ll learn next to nothing. The room at the end is
WHAT TO SEE
dedicated to Poland’s role in WWII, with specific emphasis
on the Warsaw Uprising. Curiously, the best part of the
museum is actually free of charge: the outdoor collection of
20th century weaponry includes an array of tanks, missiles,
aircraft and rocket launchers. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Wed
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 8/4zł, groups up
to 10 people 3zł per person, Sat free. Guides 50zł.
Poster Museum ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel.
022 842 48 48, www.postermuseum.pl. Housed inside
Wilanów Palace’s former stables, Warsaw’s exemplary Poster
Museum receives vast amounts of plaudits, which, if you judge
the two large halls full of wonderful posters from all over the
world on that merit alone, it truly deserves. But why the curators have chosen to put all the exhibits behind glass and light
everything so carelessly remains a mystery. Thankfully, many
of the best examples have been reproduced into postcards
that can be bought from the museum shop. QOpen 10:00
- 15:30, Mon 12:00 - 15:30. Admission 9/5zł,
Railway Museum E-3, ul. Towarowa 1, tel. 022 620
04 80. Two large rooms full of working and static models
of classic and modern trains, large train sets, a display case
full of guards’ hats from all over the world, a nice display of
cable car-related paraphernalia and a huge collection of old
engines in all possible conditions through the door in the room
on the right. Heaven if you like this kind of thing, appallingly
pointless and depressing if you don’t, especially as nothing
is in English. QOpen 09:30 - 15:30. Closed Mon. Admission
6/4zł, Fri free.
Theatre Museum B-2, pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 022 692 07
56, www.teatrwielki.pl. Opened in 1957, this rather sad
collection of posters, paintings, costumes, props and other
theatrical paraphernalia claims to draw extensively from its
collection of over 200,000 pieces. Essentially a room of theatrical bits and bobs that appear to have been thrown through
the door, the idea is that the museum and the theatre building
its located in merge into one harmonious, thespianesque
experience. This is great if you’re visiting for a performance
and can wander in and out of both during the interval, but try
getting into the theatre from the museum at any other time
and you run the risk of being herded back through the door
by a rather fanatical security guard. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 7/10zł.
Parks
Łazienki Park & Palace G-4, ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 022
621 62 41. The park and palace complex where half of
Warsaw descends on a Sunday to take the traditional family
stroll. Notable features amid the landscaped gardens include
the art-deco Chopin monument (1926), the palace on the
water (remodelled in 1792), an old orangery and a classicist
amphitheatre loosely inspired by Herculaneum. The 74 hectare site originally served as the residence of Stansiław August
Poniatowski - Poland’s last monarch. In spite of sporadic
damage, much of the dynamite laid by Nazi troops failed to
destroy the buildings. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.
Park open from dawn till dusk. Admission 12/9zł. Guides 80zł
per group up to 30 people.
Kabacki Forest Found towards the south west of the city
limits, the forest was the scene of Poland’s worst air crash on
the May 7, 1987. A memorial stone pays tribute to the 182
people who died. The forest is also believed to be the hiding
place of a warthog that escaped from Warsaw Zoo while being transported to start a new life in San Diego. Locals have
named the fugitive Non Diego. Officially marked as a nature
reserve since 1980 the 900 hectare park lies within easy reach
of Kabaty metro stop and the area is home to owls, kestrels,
deer, boar, foxes and the European Tree Frog. A popular hideout
for Home Army soldiers during WWII the reserve is also home
to many mass graves dating from this time.
Kampinos Forest Immediately North West of Warsaw,
Kampinos is the most accessible of Poland’s national parks.
Interspersed with dunes and marshland, the forest is home
to 76 endangered species, and criss-crossed with hiking and
horse-riding trails. The past decades have witnessed successful attempts to reintroduce beaver, elk and lynxes back
to the wild. Equally famous for its association with the battle
for Polish independence, Kampinos’ proximity to the capital
has made it a favourite camp for partisans throughout the
course of history; today mass graves dating from national
uprisings in 1863 and 1944 can be visited.
Pole Mokotowskie E-5. Penned in by the districts of
Mokotów, Ochota and Śródmieście this park represents
prime real estate, and right now much of the land is subject
to sky-high bods from nasty real estate developers. Hands off
we say, and not just because drinking in Pole Mokotowskie’s
countless bars is one of the highlights of summer. Prior to
WWII it was used as a military parade ground, and then from
1910, one of Europe’s first airports. It was here that the
Polish aviators Żwirko and Wigura began many of their aerial
adventures, and by 1921 passenger flights linking Warsaw
with Paris (via Prague and Strasbourg) were commonplace.
The opening of Okęcie Airport in 1933 sounded the death
knell for the airport, and today it serves as a popular summer
spot for suburbanites, as well the venue for public events such
as the annual Earth Festival.
Palace of Culture
B-4, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 022 656 76 00, www.pkin.
pl. Dominating the city skyline, the fearsome Palace of
Culture is the defining icon of the city. Looking like something you’d see in Ghostbusters, the building towers at
just over 231 metres in height - making it the tallest and
largest structure in Poland. Commissioned by Stalin as a
‘gift from the Soviet people,’ it was originally interpreted
as a reminder from Moscow that Big Brother really was
watching. To this day it still stirs mixed feelings from locals
and architecture buffs.
On April 5, 1952 Soviet representative Nikolaj Sobolev and
Polish Prime Minister Józef Cyrankiewicz stamped the deal
to build the monstrosity over a meeting in what is now
the Belvedere restaurant. Within weeks construction had
begun. Over 3,500 workers were ferried in from the Soviet
states and housed in a purpose-built village in Jelonki,
west Warsaw, where they were effectively cut off from
the outside world. Working around the clock, it took them
just three years to complete the Palace. In all 16 workers
died as a result of typical communist disregard for safety
practices. Designed by Soviet architect Lev Rudnyev (also
responsible for the equally frightening Lomonosov University in Moscow), it is a fabulous example of socialist era
architecture and also incorporates several more traditional
styles (the pillars and parapets were apparently inspired by
the Sukiennice in Kraków’s Old Town Square).
Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing
3,288 rooms, the vast Palace can allegedly be seen from
a distance of 30km. Originally intended to serve as the
Communist party HQ, the multi-purpose building currently
houses museums, restaurants, theatres, conference
halls, offices etc. The Sala Kongresowa (Congress Hall)
is big enough to hold 3,000 people, and it was in here
in 1967 that the Rolling Stones became one of the first
western bands to perform to an eastern bloc audience.
According to urban legend, an army of wild cats now live
in the cavernous basements, feasting on the legions
of rodents who also reside within the buildings gloomy
bowels. Most recently, the highest tower clock in the world
has been added to the structure and visitors should pencil
in a visit to the viewing platform on the 30th floor. The
revamped elevators take just 20 seconds to transport
you to the wind-blasted viewing level, and the panoramic
views are simply dizzyingly awesome. The price of admission is on the steep side, but there’s also a few erratic
interactive displays, architecture-related exhibits and a
small café.QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20/15zł;
groups 10zł per person (for groups of 10 or more).
Saski F-2 Opened to the public in 1727 Saski Park ranks as
one of the oldest public parks in the world, and was originally
designed in a ‘French style’, before being changed to follow
English aesthetics in the 19th century. Originally part of the
Saski Palace complex highlights include a sundial dating
from 1863, and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier; the only
surviving part of the Palace. Although wrecked by Nazi miscreants in 1944 many of trees in the park survived, and it’s
possible to find ones dating from a quarter of a century ago.
An empire style fountain designed by Marconi in 1855 stands
close to the bottom corner of the park, and other points of
interest include a memorial honouring Warsaw residents
killed during WWII.
April - May 2007
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OLD TOWN
When US General Dwight Eisenhower visited Warsaw immediately after the war he was moved to comment, “I have
seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have I been faced
with such destruction.” Rebuilt from scratch following total
devastation in 1944, the meticulous reconstruction of the
historic centre was only completed as late as 1962. Old
Town’s inclusion on UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1980
speaks volumes for the painstaking effort involved. Unfortunately Warsaw’s rise from the ashes was only achieved
at tremendous cost to other towns. Szczecin (formerly the
German town of Stettin), largely untouched by the war, was
coerced into demolishing many of its historic buildings in order
to ‘donate’ an estimated 27 million bricks to the Warsaw
rebuilding program - sadly this remains a fact largely brushed
over. Yet even though most of the Old Town is little over half
a century old, it is nothing short of an architectural miracle,
and should be the first point on any tourists itinerary. The
burgher houses that line Old Town Square (Rynek) are particularly striking, with many boasting intricate details on the
façades. A 15th century town hall that occupied the centre
of the square was pulled down in 1817 and has never been
replaced. The favoured haunt of street artists, one Rynek act
to watch for is Piotr Boł - a cagey character with a parrot and
one of Europe’s last few music boxes. Just as entertaining
are the mime artists who stand in frozen posture. In the past
one such human statue, dressed as a monk, collapsed after a
marathon drinking binge, leaving his enormous private parts
exposed to all and sundry. The network of cobbled streets
that lie east of the square are probably the most intriguing.
A few inches wider than a doorway, the house at (B-2) ul.
Kanonia 20/22 is one of the narrowest in the world. Close
by is the covered walkway that was built following the failed
assassination of King Sigismund III (see St. John’s Cathedral).
While the King escaped unmolested, his would be killer
JEWISH WARSAW
faced a rather grisly end. According to popular myth Michał
Piekarski, the hapless hitman, was skinned alive, stretched
using four horses and had his hands cut off before being put
out of his misery courtesy of a blunt axe. The archway on (B1/2) ul. Dawna leads to a grassy bank that boasts fantastic
views of the Wisła river and Praga district. Known as Gnojna
Gora (Compost Hill), this small knoll was not only the town
rubbish dump, but also renowned for its healing properties.
This is the spot where hyper-rich deviants would come to
be buried up to their necks in rubbish as a supposed cure
for syphilis. Climb up ul. Kamienne Schodki to get back into
the main square. Not only is this the longest stairwell in Old
Town, it’s also where Napoleon allegedly stood in 1806,
pensively staring eastwards as he planned his campaign
against Russia. On the other side of Old Town, the area
around (B-2) ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska was once home
to a small square used for executions. Nicknamed Piekałka
(Little Hell), this is where witches and vagabonds were once
burned alive or beheaded. The tiny ul. Wąski Dunaj played
home to Warsaw’s Jewish population back in the middle
ages, while Szeroka Dunaj was home to a large fish market.
Jan Kościuszko, leader of the 1794 insurrection, lived at ul.
Szeroka Dunaj 5. A set of defensive walls mark the boundary
of Old Town, with the crowning piece being the Barbakan
- a fearsome structure built in 1548 using the designs of a
Venetian architect. Today, the Barbakan serves as a bridge
between the old and new parts of town, and is particularly
popular with gothic teenagers drinking super-strength lager.
Although walking remains the best way to explore its many
corners, a miniature train also snakes around the area. Expect
to pay between 12-15zł for a 30 minute trip. Alternatively opt
for one of the horse carriages that wait outside the gates of
the Royal Castle. Prices tend to start at around 50zł for a 20
minute ride, though feel free to bargain.
The first Jewish settlers appeared in Mazovia at around
the start of the 14th century. Although pogroms were not
unknown, Poland was seen by many Jews as a relative
safe haven in comparison to the discrimination of the
west. By the late 18th century over 9 percent of the
capital’s inhabitants were Jewish. By 1939 Warsaw was
home to over 350,000 Jews. The horror of WWII and the
subsequent prejudice of the anti-Semite government
decimated Poland’s Jewish population. Today only around
2,000 Jews live in Warsaw.
Jewish Cemetery D-1,
ul. Okopowa 49/51. In
spite of sporadic disrepair
and neglect, this remains a
beautiful and poignant place
to visit. The cemetery was
originally founded in 1806
and currently houses around
250,000 tombs. Amongst
those buried here are Ludwik
Zamenhof, inventor of the
ill-fated language Esperanto.
Donations for the upkeep of
the cemetery can be made
to the Citizens Committee
for the Protection of Jewish
Cemeteries and Monuments
of Culture in Poland, tel. 022 827 92 21. Q Open 10:00
- 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00. Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat.
Admission 4zł.
Jewish Historical Institute F-2, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, tel.
022 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. A chilling recollection of Polish
Jewry and the only institution in Poland focusing entirely on
the study of the history and culture of the Polish Jews, this
amazing building houses permanent and temporary exhibits
relating to secular and religious Jewish life in the country
from its beginnings to the annihilation of the Jews in Poland
during WWII and beyond. As well as an excellent bookshop,
the institute’s museum, opened in 1948, features a large
interactive display in the entrance hall that allows its users
to find out about Jewish life in any part of the country, the
extraordinary Warsaw Ghetto 1940-1943 exhibition, religious
treasures, an archive and a small cinema. Particularly poignant
is the collection of photographs taken in the Warsaw Ghetto
by Heinz Jost, a German innkeeper who served in the German
army and whose almost snapshot-style photographs speak
volumes about the place and the time. Essential visiting.
QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Thu 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Admission 10/5zł.
Monument to the
Ghetto Heroes A-1,
ul. Zamenhofa. D esigned by Natan Rappaport, the monument pays
tribute to the heroes of
the Ghetto Uprising of
1943. Found between (E1) ul. Anielewicza, Zamenhofa, Lewar towskiego
and Karmelicka it here
that the heaviest fighting
took place. In an ironic
quirk, the stone cladding
on the monument was
originally ordered from
Sweden by Hitler for a
victory arch.
Nożyk Synagogue E-2, ul. Twarda 6, tel. 022 652 28
05, www.warszawa.jewish.org.pl. Built between 1898 and
1902 in a neo-Romanesque style, this was the only Warsaw
synagogue to survive the ravages of war. It was fully restored
between 1977 and 1983. Now open for worship. Q Open
to visitors from 10:00 until sunset, Sun 13:00 until sunset.
Closed Sat. Please, no visiting during prayer. Groups of more
than 10 must call and reserve in advance. Admission 5zł.
Traces of the Ghetto Following the Ghetto Uprising the
whole area was levelled so few traces remain. If you duck
into the courtyard at (A-4, on the ul. Twarda side) ul. Sienna
55 you will see a remaining part of the ghetto wall complete
with a commemorative plaque. Possibly the only street that
survived the maelstrom of 1943 is the depressing ul. Próżna
(B-3). The tenement houses were built between 1880 and
1900 and were once home to Warsaw’s thriving Jewish community. Once a bustling street full of traders and hardware
stores it now lies forlorn and neglected; a haunting epitaph
to the past.
Umschlagplatz E-1 Found on ul. Stawki (E-1), close to the
intersection with ul. Dzika, Umschlagplatz is a bleak, slightly
disappointing monument marking the spot where around
300,000 Jews were loaded on
cattle wagons bound for Treblinka. The Nazi commandant
in charge of the deportations
lived directly opposite on ul.
Stawki 5/7. Lying between
Umschlagplatz and the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes
lies the legendary monument
labelled Miła 18 (note: this is
not the address where you can
find the monument). Essentially
no more than a symbolic grassy
knoll, it marks the spot from
where the Ghetto Uprising was
directed.
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82
PRAGA
Warsaw’s eastern suburb, Praga, has long been regarded
as off-limits to Western visitors. Often painted as the
bastion of tower blocks and the criminal underclass, Praga
lies right at the start of the Warsaw monopoly board. The
area is actually enjoying a snail-like renaissance, and as
such offers visitors a combination of strange sights and
sounds. While it is an enjoyable and recommended daytrip,
do remember that this is not Old Town; huge zoom lenses
and video cameras will attract unwanted attention, quite
possibly worse.
Bazar Różyckiego
H-1, ul. Ząbkowska, www.br.waw.pl. Once regarded as
Warsaw’s premier bazaar, the compact Bazar Różyckiego
has seen its popularity wane since 1989. Black market
trade once thrived under Nazi and communist governments,
nowadays the historic 102-year-old market is a ghostly image
of its former self. Once considered the place for cardigans,
firearms and spurious goods, it’s now a mildly depressing
look into working class Warsaw life. QOpen 06:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Buildings
Although in a sorry state of disrepair, much of Praga survived
the war. Nowadays, to walk around the bullet-scarred tenement houses found by the riverside is to immerse yourself in
pre-war Praga. The oldest surviving residential building in the
district can be found on ul. Targowa 50/52. Built in 1819, it
once housed a Jewish elementary school and bears a Hebrew
inscription dating from 1934. Be warned, the nearby ul. Brzeska is reputed to be Warsaw’s most dangerous street.
Jewish Cemetery
corner of Św. Wincentego and ul. Odrowąża. Traditionally the burial ground of Warsaw’s poorer Jews, this is the
oldest Jewish cemetery in the city. Founded in 1780 much
of it was wrecked during the Nazi occupation, with several
tombs being used as paving stones. Even more graves
were destroyed following the end of the war, with hundreds
of tombs ripped from the ground and piled together in
huge heaps. In spite of token restoration work, much of
the cemetery is little more than an abandoned jungle of
weeds. A poignant epitaph to Warsaw’s history.
Kościuszkowców Monument
G-1, ul. Wybrzeże Szczecińskie, Near Port Praski. A
formidable monument erected in 1985 to act as a memorial for those who fought in the First Polish Infantry Division.
Formed in Russia, the division attempted to cross the Wisła
river several times without success, in a bid to support the
1944 Uprising.
WARSAW UPRISING
Orthodox Church
of St. Mary Magdalene G-1, al.
Solidarności 52, tel.
022 619 84 67. Constructed between 1867
and 1869 to a design by
Mikołaj Syczew, St. Mary
Magdalene’s was originally built for the large
congregation of Russian souls living around
Jagiellońska as well as
people arri ving from
the East at the nearby
Wileńska train station.
Now belonging to the
in d ep en d en t Poli sh
Sco
Autokephalic Orthodox
Church, this stunning,
five-domed building features a breathtaking golden interior
and some unusually cheerful abstract designs. One of only
two Orthodox churches to survive a demolition campaign in the
1920s, this rather unorthodox Orthodox church comes with its
own charming, football-mad priest. QOpen 11:00 - 15:00.
Russian Market H-2, Stadion Dziesięciolecia. For details
see Markets on page 85.
Soviet War Memorial G-1, intersection of ul. Targowa
and al. Solidarności. Dedicated to the Soviet soldiers who
died during the ‘liberation’ of Warsaw. Erected in the immediate aftermath of WWII, the rusting edifice is the city’s least
loved memorial and is often daubed with graffiti. The Praga
location follows the science of logic - this was where the
Red Army halted their advance in 1944, while Nazi troops
annihilated the western parts of town.
Sts. Michael & Florian Cathedral G-1, ul. Floriańska
3. In reaction to the building of an Orthodox Church and a
number of other structures on the Tsar’s orders in the latter
half of the 19th century, a certain Pole by the name of Father
Ignacy Dutkiewicz decided to hit back with the construction
of a huge new Catholic church. Consecrated in 1901, a year
before its final completion, this vast Gothic beast was blown to
pieces by the Germans in September 1944 and is now almost
exclusively the work of ongoing reconstruction between 1947
and 1970. Featuring a pair of steel-tipped, 75-metre steeples,
the church, which includes a photograph of what remained of
it after the Nazis dynamited it on the left wall as you enter,
has a rather plain interior, although the vaulted ceilings are
well worth a look at if you’re in the area.
Koneser Vodka Factory
H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. 022 619 90 21, www.
wwwkoneser.pl. Located in a complex of historically-listed
buildings, the Koneser Vodka Factory has been producing
the spirit since 1897. The distillery spawns over 16 million
bottles per year, and aside from producing their own brands,
Koneser also holds contracts to produce distinguished vodkas like Finlandia and Sobieski. Employing over 150 people,
the factory uses specially filtered water from a spring 270
metres under the city to distill its vodka. Official tours are
now available from Monday to Friday from 08:00 to 13:00 by
prior arrangement. Walking amongst the conveyor belts and
towering vats of vodka provides a fascinating insight into the
laborious process that goes into distilling the devilish sauce.
QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Reservations three
days in advance. Admission 25zł per person, 30zł with vodka
sampling. After working hours additional fee of 700zł regardless of size of group.
Warsaw Zoo G-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3 (Miejski Ogród
Zoologiczny w Warszawie), tel. 022 619 40 41, www.
zoo.waw.pl. Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of
40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year.
Three elephants, a family of seals and a lion cub were added
to the current collection of reptiles, birds and tigers. Conditions
have improved dramatically in recent years, though a visit here
will do little to change any opinions you have on locking animals
in cages. As with every major Warsaw landmark, the zoo has
plenty of war stories. It was bombed at the beginning of the
conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed,
deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into
the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero;
wounded during the 1944 Uprising, Żabiński helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the
zoo. The zoo officially re-opened in 1949. Q Open 09:00- dusk.
Admission 3/6zł. Kids under 3 years for free.
By 1944, with the tide of war turning and their resources and
morale seemingly in disarray, German forces had begun a
strategic retreat from Warsaw. Following close contact with
the Polish government in exile in London and assurances of
Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime underground
movement) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating
Warsaw and installing an independent government.
At 17:00, August 1, 1944, General Tadeusz Komorowski
(a.k.a. Bór), signalled the order for Polish troops to launch attacks on German held positions. In spite of being disastrously
ill equipped, the sheer ferocity of the attack combined with
the element of surprise, caught the German forces off guard.
Within days vast swathes of Warsaw had been captured by
insurgents and for the first time in five years the Polish flag flew
defiantly over the city. The initial success of the uprising was
short lived. News of the rebellion infuriated the German high
command. Himmler immediately issued orders to recapture
Warsaw, and with key strategic targets such as landing strips
and bridges firmly under Nazi control, it wasn’t long before
reinforcements of crack German and Ukrainian military units
started pouring in to crush the revolt.
The beleaguered Home Army, already stretched to the limit,
had no option but to hold fast and wait for help from the
outside world. The Red Army, whose forces had reached the
environs of the Praga side of Warsaw, promptly halted their
steady advance and essentially did nothing while the battle
for Warsaw raged on the other side of the Wisła river. If the
Poles thought things couldn’t get any worse then they hadn’t
gambled on Stalin sticking his oar in. In a move that effectively
sealed the fate of the uprising, Uncle Joe refused to grant
permission for the Western Allies to use Soviet air fields in a
bid to relieve the Home Army. Nazi forces continued to pound
the Polish forces and the battle descended into a street for
street, hand to hand bloodbath. Sewers and other escape
routes were gassed, civilians butchered, children used as
human shields, prisoners of war murdered.
Mid-September saw numerous attempts by other Polish
battalions to smash through German lines that had by now
encircled the Home Army into small pockets of resistance.
Token victories failed to compensate for the catastrophic
casualty list that was now mounting. With the advent of
October the Poles found themselves in an increasingly impossible situation. On October 2, 1944, with no hope in sight,
General Komorowski signed a capitulation document. The
battle had cost the lives of over 20,000 troops and some
150,000 civilians. With the uprising defeated, Hitler ordered
all remaining civilians to be expelled and surviving buildings
to be numbered in their order of importance to Polish culture
then systematically dynamited.
Execution Sites Warsaw has over 300 plaques dotted
around the city that commemorate Nazi execution sites. They
display the date and usually the number of people who were
killed by German hit squads.
Monument to the Warsaw Uprising B-2, pl.
Krasińskich. In the decades following the war the communist
authorities refused to acknowledge the significance of the
Warsaw Uprising. It was only with the regime close to collapse,
as well as much lobbying from veterans and Solidarity, that
a monument was finally unveiled. Built in 1989 on the site of
the former national theatre, Wincent Kućma’s masterpiece
depicts a group of insurgents in battle and another group fleeing into the sewers. It was here that German president, Roman
Herzog, apologized on the 50th anniversary of the uprising for
German atrocities committed against the Polish nation.
The Little Insurgent (Małego Powstańca)
B-2, ul. Podwale. Warsaw’s most poignant memorial commemorates the hundreds of children who were killed during
the Uprising. Many were used as messengers, others fought
in the ranks. The monument itself depicts Antek Rozpylacz
- a boy-soldier killed nearby.
Warsaw remains
Between 1939 and 1944 over 84 percent of Warsaw was
completely destroyed, with the city centre bearing the brunt
of the damage. In spite of the Herculean rebuilding work that
has since taken place, the odd bullet scarred wall or pre-war
tenements can still be found. (B-2) ul. Bielańska 10 - Built
in 1907 the mammoth building originally functioned as the
National Bank of Russia, before being turned into the Polish
state treasury in 1917. Smashed by German bombs, its decaying hulk now lies fenced off from the public. Plans to turn
the building into an Uprising museum have repeatedly stalled.
(A-3) ul. Waliców - Located within the bounds of the Jewish
ghetto, the shell pocked walls were actually damaged during
the intense fighting of 1944. The dark, brooding courtyards
of several of the tenement buildings still carry an ominous air.
(F-4) ul. Wilcza - The facades of a few buildings between ul.
Poznańska and ul. Koszykowa remain sprayed with bullets.
In particular keep an eye open for no. 9a, 72 and 73. (B-3)
Prudential Insurance building - Now the derelict Hotel
Warszawa, when the tower was erected in the 1930s it was
the tallest building in Warsaw. During the uprising it was a
primary target for the Home Army and captured on the first
day of battle. Although it was gutted by German shelling its
steel skeleton refused to topple. Praga – The neglected Praga
district holds whole streets seemingly left as they were. Visitors should look out for ul. Okrzei (G-1), and ul. Zamojskiego
(H-1). Walking around at night is not advisable. Pill box - Lying
between al. Niepodleglosci and ul. Nowowiejska (F-4) those
with eagle eyes will spot a tiny bunker built at the tail end of
the war. Craftily hidden by advertising hoardings, it’s quite
literally the only German bunker you’ll find in the city.
April - May 2007
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84
FURTHER READING
Uprising Museum
Warsaw Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powstania Warszawskiego) D-3, ul. Przyokopowa
28, tel. 022 539 79 33, www.1944.pl. A stunning
museum, opened in 2004, and revamped in early 2005,
and one which we rate as the best in Poland. Packed
with interactive displays, photographs, video footage
and miscellaneous displays this is guaranteed to leave
a deep mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tramway
power station the 2,000m2 space is split in three levels
and takes leads visitors through the complete story of
the uprising. Life under Nazi rule is covered through a
series of slides, and a section of the ground floor is dedicated to the children who served as both messengers
and soldiers. The rattle of machine guns, Stukka dive
bombers and heart beats are played over the speakers, adding to the ominous atmosphere. Different halls
focus on the many aspects of the Uprising; a replica of
an insurgents radio station has been built, while other
sections document the massacre in Wola, allied airdrops
and the role of medical units. On the mezzanine level a
cinema screen plays a ten minute film detailing the first
month of the battle, after which the museums route
takes visitors through a mock sewer. The final section
features a section devoted to the Soviet creation of
‘Lublin Poland’, a hall of remembrance for the fallen and
a display entitled ‘Death of the City’; a haunting epitath
to the destruction of Warsaw in which silent films project
before and after shots of city landmarks. The wall of the
small park outside is marked with the names of 4,000
casualties, and is also home to occasional photographic
exhibitions. New additions to this fantastic space include
a replica of B24 Liberator plane, a 110-seat cinema and
a 32 metre tall viewing tower. Although multi-lingual tour
guides are available, the translations on most of the
museums displays are clear enough to render a guide
unnecessary and there’s even a creche for the kids.
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Thu 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 4/2zł, groups
1zł, Sun free. Guides for groups of 12-20 people 15zł,
individual tours 50zł.
Rising ’44
by Norman Davies
It may have been a battle that determined Poland’s destiny,
but to date the Warsaw Uprising has received little in the
way of recognition from the Western world – so much so
that it repeatedly finds itself confused with the 1943 Ghetto
Uprising; most famously by German Chancellor Herzog in
1994, and most recently by French newspaper Le Figaro.
Norman Davies, arguably the world’s number one authority
on Polish history, attempts to redress the balance with this
brick of a book.
To do so he breaks with the linear format favoured by the
majority of historical authors. Instead he chooses to split
his work into several clear sections, thereby allowing the
reader to dive in and out of chapters of particular interest.
Text is further interspersed with what Davies describes as
capsules: sub-chapters comprising of personal recollections;
from the blurry memories of a five-year-old child, to the diary
entries of a German soldier caught. Surprisingly though, the
main focus of the book is not the actual Uprising, rather
the prelude and the aftermath. While the first 240 pages of
the paperback version are dedicated to events prior to the
outbreak of combat, the first day of hostilities are deemed
worthy of only a page. Madness.
Davies has also faced criticism for his decision to Anglicize all
Polish names. For foreigners familiar with Poland this can be
deeply frustrating. Rising ’44 lacks the pace and the fizz of
Antony Beevor’s excellent works on Stalingrad and Berlin, and
it has a tendency to become bogged down in the impossibly
complicated politics of the day, making it a demanding read.
Fluidity is disrupted by the constant need to cross-reference
the core text with the stack of notes translations at the back;
have plenty of bookmarks to hand. Furthermore, readers
will be left with plenty of unanswered questions. The fate of
German combatants is largely ignored, while the wholesale
destruction of Warsaw is covered in just fleeting detail.
To his credit Davies is a superb historian, and his habit of
unearthing fantastic detail saves interest from flagging. For
instance, we learn that the Polish Home Army contained
a battalion of deaf and dumb troops, of the existence of
a concentration camp inside the city walls, and there is a
superb section on life in occupied Warsaw. The fate of the
insurgents makes particularly interesting reading, and Davies
manages to track veterans from as far afield as Mexico and
Australia. We learn of one who went on to become a famous
anthropologist in the wilds of the Andes, and of an amputee
who became a world legless ski champion. The days of statesponsored terror are described in vivid detail, along with the
Soviet show trials and subsequent imprisonment of many of
the Uprising’s leaders. In one anecdote the author reveals
how one veteran was spied on by the security services for
twenty five years following the Uprising. State files opened
in 1990 show that the last report on him was written during
his funeral; the informant was his wife. Davies does not shirk
from the facts, and much of the book will make uncomfortable
reading for Britons. The author is scathing, and deservedly
so, towards the allied powers, responsible for double-crossing
Poland and pandering to Stalin’s whims.
Rising ‘44 is at times a laborious read, but ultimately a
rewarding one. This is not a book specifically about the war,
rather a keen exploration of the political intrigues between
Whitehall and the Kremlin. Davies warns in his introduction
that this is not a definitive account of the Uprising, and with
so many questions left unanswered we are inclined to agree
with him. In Your Pocket verdict: 7/10
WHAT TO SEE
Markets
Russian Market H-2, Stadion Dziesięciolecia. See
Saska Kępa, page 8.
Get In Your Pocket
Bazar Różyckiego H-1, ul. Ząbkowska. Black market
in your postbox with our free subscription offer
trade once thrived under Nazi and communist governments,
nowadays the historic 102-year-old market is a ghostly image
of its former self. Once considered the place for cardigans,
firearms and spurious goods, it’s now a mildly depressing
look into working class Warsaw life. Open from 09:15, closed
on Sunday.
Visit our website at www.inyourpocket.com/delivery/,
give us your details and we’ll post you a brand new copy
every 2 months when the guide is published *
Bazar na Kole
D-2, ul. Obozowa 99. Quality flea market held each weekend
from dawn till 14:00. Attracting buyers and sellers from across
the country this is exactly the place if you’ve ever wanted to
own a Prussian helmet or set of palace doors from India (yours
for 16,000zł). The Russian market, with it’s plastic shoes and
Bulgarian DVDs pales in comparison. What else can you find?
We’ve spotted pre-war posters advertising Polish toothpaste,
early 19th century postcards, prewar bathroom fixtures and
grandfather clocks. The traders themselves are a set of
curious characters, and watching these veterans at work
is one reason alone to visit. While early morning is the best
time to snap up the rare finds, the closing Sunday at 13:00
is the time to hit to try and get the last minute bargains. The
golden rule is to haggle at all times. Paying the asking price
means overpaying.
* only available to readers with a Polish postal address
WARSAW
KRAKÓW
GDAŃSK
Including
SOPOT & GDYNIA
April - May 2007
December 2006 - April 2007
April - May 2007
Wrzeszcz
Another side of Gdańsk
Floriańska
Gunter Grass
Explore Kraków’s royal
route
Local hero and villain
Made of Stone
Kraków’s wackiest
statues
Saska Kępa
Gone but not
Forgotten
ISSN 1641-5264
ISSN 1508-2334
ISSN 1640-3592
WROCŁAW
POZNAŃ
January - April 2007
ŁÓDŹ
March - June 2007
Streets Ahead
Europe’s longest street
There and Back
Tthe rickshaws of Łódź
Photo market F-5, ul. Batorego 10. Open Sun 10:00
- 14:00. Admission 4zł. Discount camera equipment inside
the Stodoła nightclub. Lenses, lamps, filters, negatives, etc.
Highly recommended for those who take their photography
seriously and know what they are looking for.
Kórnik Castle
A neo-Gothic
masterpiece
Old Town
St Martin’s Day
Exploring the historic
centre
Poznań’s big day
Stags
The Brits are here
ISSN 1642-2899
ISSN 1642-2902
ISSN 1896-1169
April - May 2007
85
86
WILANÓW
The ‘Polish Versailles’ is one of the many fitting monikers
applied to the splendid, late 17th-century Palace of Wilanów,
10 kilometres south of Warsaw’s centre. Essential visiting for
all who come to soak up the capital’s lavish culture, Wilanów
is more than just a Palace. The sprawling 45-hectare setting
is full of things to do, from visiting the superb Poster Museum
next door to renting a rowing boat on the Palace’s lake. If
the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to
spend an entire and thoroughly rewarding day here.
Getting there
By bus
A 30-minute bus ride from the centre of Warsaw, bus N°116
leaves from the southbound stop at (C-4) al. Ujazdowskie,
going all the way to the Palace entrance.
Taxi
At around 35zł with a recommended company such as MPT
(tel. 022 91 91), a taxi ride to Wilanów is something of a false
economy, taking more or less the same time as the bus to get
there. If you prefer the comfort and privacy of your own car
then find ELE taxis parked around the city, including outside
the (A/B-4) main train station.
Bicycle
The main route to Wilanów passes several interesting parks
on the way, and cycling is an option. Be warned though,
drivers in Warsaw have little regard for cyclists. Cycling
in Warsaw is only recommended if you’re used to riding a
bicycle in a large city.
Sustenance
As well as a McDonald’s, the option of bringing your own
picnic or running the gauntlet of the kitchen in the café next
to the Palace, you may wish to sample one of the three of
the following restaurants.
Kuźnia Królewska ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego
24, tel. 022 842 31 71. A good range of moderately priced
international and traditional Polish dishes, including veal,
goose, trout, classic pork knuckle and a fabulous selection
of desserts, served by nice, English-speaking waiters in bow
ties. The building itself was originally a blacksmiths, and the
inside is decorated with a slightly ostentatious equestrian
flair. On a good day the attached terrace is a great place
to sit and waste a bit of quality time over a bowl or plate of
quality food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
WILANÓW
The Palace
ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. 022 842 81 01,
www.wilanow-palac.art.pl. Wilanów gets its name from
the Warsaw borough in which Wilanów Palace is located.
First mentioned in the 13th century as Milanów, the then
tiny village changed hands several times before being
bought in the 17th century by the family of Stanisław
Leszczyński. Leszczyński began building a Palace here,
but the project was halted by the Deluge and the subsequent capture and plundering of the region by the
Swedes. In 1676 the abandoned Milanów was bought
by King Jan III Sobieski, who ordered a new Palace to be
built. Originally called Villa Nova (New Village), the name
was soon polonised to the one it’s known by today. With
numerous additions over the centuries by its subsequent
aristocratic owners, the Palace, park and surrounding
ensemble of buildings represent the height of Polish Baroque and is one of Poland’s greatest national treasures.
Confiscated by Poland’s post-war Communist government, Wilanów, seriously damaged by the Germans during
WWII, was painstakingly renovated during the 1950s and
early 1960s and opened its doors to the public in 1962.
The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the
Palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The
current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of
the Palace’s astonishing interior, is a jaw dropping safari
of extravagance and opulence, providing a remarkable
insight into the life and culture of the former Polish ruling
classes. Wander through room upon room of delights
including some superb examples of traditional Polish coffin
portraits, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, a room featuring magnificent frescoes uncovered during restoration
work after the war, residential rooms, an exceedingly rare
18th-century glass grandfather clock and even a private
chapel. With the aid of one of the museum’s English language audio guides it’s possible to spend a good couple
of hours here. The Palace fills with schoolchildren during
the week and tourists at the weekends, and there’s no
best time to visit. You may also have to bite your lip and
be patient if a tour group is occupying one of the rooms
you particularly want to have a look at. QOpen 09:00
- 15:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00, closed Tue. Admission 16/8zł.
Sat free. Park and Orangery 5/3zł. Thu free. Guides for
groups of 6-25 people admission plus 5zł.; for groups up
to 5 people 135zł. Please book in advance.
For full contents of
all our guides see:
Other sights
A stroll around the grounds at Wilanów is rewarded with more
than just the pleasure of its individual parks and gardens.
Among the many treats in store are the fabulous Poster
Museum (see box), the domed, 18th-century St. Anne’s
Church, and the large and imposing Neo-Gothic Potocki
Mausoleum. A trip to the lake is rewarded with a glimpse of
Enrico Marconi’s strange, Gothic-inspired pump room, and
an adventure to the Park’s island reveals a monument to the
Polish soldier, Captain Ksawery Burski, who served in the
army of the Duchy of Warsaw and who gave his life at Wilanów
fighting the Austrians at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809.
Restauracja Wilanów ul. Stanisława Kostki Potockiego 27, tel. 022 842 18 52. An extraordinary
excursion back to the days of a planned Polish economy,
this much talked about classy restaurant serves a range
of international and Polish food in a blast to the past
atmosphere. Despite what they say about the place there’s
no ignoring the service. Breathtakingly snobby, expect to
be treated like something the cat dragged in if you’re not
dressed for the opera. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
Villa Nuova
ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 23, tel. 022 885 15 02, www.
villanuova.com.pl. Memorable. Furnished with mahogany
and chandeliers, Villa Nuova represents no less than culinary
excellence. Private rooms, an impressive cellar and staff who
make you feel special make this a perfect evening. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00.
Poster Museum Housed inside the Palace’s former
stables, the Poster Museum receives vast amounts of
plaudits, which, if you judge the two large halls full of
wonderful posters from all over the world on that merit alone,
is truly deserving. But why the curators have chosen to put all
the exhibits behind glass and light everything so carelessly
remains a mystery. Thankfully, many of the best examples
have been reproduced into postcards that can be bought
from the museum shop. QOpen 10:00 - 15:30, Mon 12:00
- 15:30. Admission 9/5zł.
SD Galeria ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel.
022 842 00 66, www.galeriasd.pl. This small collection
of modern Polish art close to St. Anne’s Church includes
paintings and sculptures by many of the country’s leading
contemporary artists. Featuring some truly great pieces of
art, most of the work on display is available for sale. QOpen
12:00 - 20:00.
Making a day of it
The highlight of any trip to Wilanów is unquestionably a
leisurely stroll through the sumptuous corridors of its Palace,
but this is merely the tip of what is on closer inspection a
much bigger iceberg.
Park & Gardens
The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park grew over the
centuries according to the particular fancies of its owners.
The Park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly
faithful renovations made during the 1950s, overseen by the
architect and historian Professor Gerard Ciołek (1909-1966).
Made up of a series of individual gardens, the Park includes
a two-level Baroque garden, a wonderful Neo-Renaissance
rose garden, a classical English landscaped park and the socalled English-Chinese landscape park. There’s also a natural
lake found behind the Palace, where boats can be hired for
leisurely trips on the water. The upper level of the Baroque
garden is currently the site of a series of archaeological digs,
where several artefacts including ceramics dating from the
12th century have been discovered. The Baroque garden
also serves as a splendid venue for outdoor classical music
concerts during the summer season.
April - May 2007
87
88
NAŁĘCZÓW
Situated 25 kilometres west of Lublin, the spa town of
Nałęczów is easily accessed by train, with approximately
ten trains making the journey each day. Pencil in two hours
for travel time, with first class tickets available for as little
as 49.50zł.
Tagged as ‘the garden city’, the origins of the town can be
traced back to 1751 when Stanisław Małachowski purchased
the land and named it in honour of his family coat of arms:
Nałęcz. It was his ancestor, Antoni, who would later discover
the healing waters on the property, hence changing the course
of Nałęczów’s future path. Showing entrepreneurial spirit it
wasn’t long before the Małachowski family decided to cash
in on this discovery, and set about building bathhouses and
accommodation. By 1880 the spa resort of Nałęczów was
welcoming its first visitors, and it wasn’t long before it came
to be regarded as the top spa retreat in the country. Attracting
the celebrities of the day, eminent visitors included the pianist/prime minister Ignacy Paderewski and the writer Stefan
Żeromski. Man of letters, Bolesław Prus, visited in 1882 in a
bid to conquer agoraphobia and was so taken by the picturesque town he became a frequent visitor afterwards.
The turn-of-the-century saw a series of alpine-style chalets
constructed, with the most spectacular to be found lining ul.
Lipowa and ul. Armatniej Góry. The Golden Age came to an
abrupt halt with the outbreak of WWI, during which period the
town was razed to the ground. The inter-war years promised
to return the town to its glory days, with over 2,500 visitors
flocking to the area each year, but the dawning of the second
world war saw Nałęczów reduced to a smouldering rubble
once more. The 1970s witnessed an aggressive expansion
of this backwater, with cardiology hospitals and sanatoriums
added with abandon, though today the town has returned
to its best, boasting an idyllic air that has made it a popular
retreat with Poland’s elite.
The Zdrojowy Park is the focal point of the town, with swans
and squirrels adding to the picture book atmosphere,
though it is the rococo-style Pałac Małachowskich that
steals the show. Completed in 1775 the palace is where
Prus penned his defining opus, Lalka, and today the
structure houses a small museum honoring the man (Open
09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Tickets. 2.50/3.50zł).
Fans of Polish literature can peruse his manuscripts and
letters. Head to the pavilion for a glass of crystal-clear
water; rich in magnesium and calcium the waters are
apparently the perfect tonic for anyone with a dodgy
heart. An 18th century palmhouse is a favourite on the
local postcards, and the park also contains two Greekstyle fountains named Faith and Love. A must-visit is the
Żeromski Museum (Open 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Tue in
April, in May just Monday. Tickets 3.50/2.50zł): a wooden
Zakopane-style lodge, and currently home to the author’s
skis and boxing gloves.
Numerous guesthouses and hotels line the high streets,
ranging from prim pensions like Samoniowka (ul. 1-go Maja
26, tel 081 501 47 47) to the unforgettable fairytale lodgings
of Willa Uciecha (ul. 1-go Maja 22, tel. 081 718 79 60, www.
willauciecha.com).
Train schedule
From Nałęczów
Dep. Arr.
5:45 7:50
6:40 8:45
8:40 10:46
10:40 12:45
12:40 14:50
14:40 16:45
16:40 18:55
19:40 21:45
City
Warsaw
(2)
Warsaw(4)
Warsaw
Warsaw
Warsaw
Warsaw
(3)
Warsaw(1)
Warsaw(2)
Warsaw
(1) except 9 April, Sat, Sun.
(2) except Fri, Sun
(3) except 7and 8 April
(4) except 8 and 9 April
(1)
To Nałęczów
Dep. Arr.
7:15 9:17
9:15 11:20
11:15 13:18
13:15 15:17
16:15 18:19
17:15 19:20
18:15 20:17
19:15 21:20
21:35 23:55
90
ŁÓDŹ
Łódź In Your Pocket
Łódź may look like it’s pronounced Lodz, but it most cerŁÓDŹ
tainly isn’t. Think of it as Woodge,
and three hundred years ago a
visit here would have produced
the sight of little more than one
man and his dog. In terms of age
Łódź is one of the youngest cities
in the country, and a direct product of the Industrial Revolution.
And while Łódź cannot boast the
twee charisma of Prague and
Kraków a scratch of the surface
rewards the intrepid traveller with a city stuffed with
wacky stories, dark history and some of the countries
finest after-dark venues – you’ll find them all inside our
third issue of Łódź In Your Pocket; Poland’s first comprehensive English-language guide to the city.
Streets Ahead
Europe’s longest street
There and Back
Tthe rickshaws of Łódź
saw many of Poland’s eminent artists and cultural institutes
decamp to the nearest big city; that city was Łódż, and today
the town can boast a rich cultural heritage, with Poland’s leading
film school, one of the most important modern art galleries in
Europe, and an exciting underground culture.
Today Łódź is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in
confidence and coming to terms with its patchy history.
Overlooked by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of
hidden charms: from the awesome palaces that belonged to
the hyper-rich industrialists who made the city, to Europe’s
longest pedestrian street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest
municipal park in Europe. You’ll find everything you need to
know about the city in our print guide to Łódź, as well as our
full content online at www.inyourpocket.com.
ISSN 1896-1169
Getting there
Łódź lies 140km South West of Warsaw and was easily accessed by train - that was until repairs to improve the tracks
began. When work finishes Łódź will be within an hours reach
of Warsaw, for the time being though journey time depends on
luck, and can sometimes take over three hours. If you’re travelling from the capital you’ll need to book a ticket running to Łódź
Fabryczna train station. The city centre is directly across the
road from the main entrance: take the underpass and carry on
walking west and you’ll find yourself on the main street, ulica
Piotrkowska, within ten minutes. For longer journeys taxis stand
directly outside the main entrance, though travellers should
only use cabs that are clearly marked.
Some basics
Łódź first appeared in written records in 1332 under the name
of Łodzia and remained little more than a rural backwater for
the following centuries, with a population numbering just 800
as late as the 16th century.
The birth of modern Łódź as we know it can be traced to
1820, when statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisław
Staszic began a campaign to turn the Russian-controlled
city into a centre of manufacturing. The first cotton mill was
opened in 1825 and by 1839 the first steam-powered factory
in Poland and Russia was officially christened. A massive influx
of workers from as far afield as Portugal, England and France
flooded the city, though the mainstay of the town’s population remained Poles, Germans and Jews. Within a matter of
decades Łódź had grown into the biggest textile production
centre in the Russian Empire, during which time vast fortunes
were made and lost by the major industrialist families.
By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the
most densely populated cities on the planet with a population of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre.
But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years
signaled an end to the town’s Golden Age, and the loss of
Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and
civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war Łódź.
Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw
the city annexed into The Third Reich.
The following six years of occupation left the population
decimated with 120,000 Poles killed, and an estimated
300,000 Jews perishing in what was to become known as
the Litzmannstadt ghetto. Following the war, and with much of
Warsaw in ruins, Łódź was used as Poland’s temporary capital
until 1948. The wholesale war-time destruction of Warsaw also
Manufaktura
How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself
‘More than a shopping centre?’ In the case of Manufaktura, for
once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeed more
than a shopping centre. In fact, we really shouldn’t be calling
it a shopping centre at all. Covering a space of 150,000m2
Manufaktura does of course feature a mall with endless
shopping opportunities, but that would not tell the full story.
Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest renovation
project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town in the
1950s. Originally a series of factories that were constructed
in the latter part of the 19th century the restoration of the old
factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed. Enter through
the Poznański gate, where workers used to file through everyday
on their way to the mills, and you’ll arrive at the projects ground
zero: the 30,000m2 Rynek (main square). Featuring Europe’s
longest fountain the square is the cultural hub, with restaurants,
fitness club and IMAX cinema crowded around it. A full program
of events is planned to keep things lively, including pop concerts,
beer festival and big screen showings of sports events.
With a catchment area of 1.8 million people in a 50km radius
Manufaktura expect 15 million visitors in the first year alone.
For the more languorous character two electric tramlines
have also been added to ferry visitors from one end of the
complex to the other. And in spite all of this Manufaktura
remains very much a work in progress; further additions
include the transformation of the showpiece Spinning Mill
into a conference centre, office block and a four star hotel,
as well as the addition of a huge modern art centre, children’s
museum and technological museum.
92
GETTING AROUND
Arriving by bus
Coaches arrive and depart either from the central train station or from Warszawa Zachodnia (Warsaw West). Zachodnia
serves both as a bus and train station. There is an ATM in
the main hall and a kantor to exchange money. Getting to
town. Bus N°127, 130, 508, 517, 523, 605 and E5 all go to
the centre. Taxis can cost from 15zł to 30zł so ask around.
Aura
D-4, al. Jerozolimskie 144 (Warsaw Zachodnia - Bus Station), tel. 022 659 47 85, www.aura.pl. QOpen 09:00
- 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
In-Pol ul. Wandy 16, tel. 022 672 90 60. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Vealia Eurolines ul. Żurawia 26, tel. 022 621 34 69,
www.eurolines.pl. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00
Arriving by car
Pot holes, crumbling tarmac and fearless drivers. At best
Polish roads, and drivers, are bad, but that’s part of the rich
tapestry of life, we guess. We’ll let the statistics speak for
themselves. Poland leads Europe when it comes to road fatalities. In Warsaw alone the year 2002 saw 27,102 motoring
accidents, which resulted in a total of 2,301 injuries and 49
deaths.The speed limit in Warsaw is now 50km/hr. In other
urban areas the limit is 60km/hr, outside urban areas 90km/
hr, dual carriageways 110km/hr and motorways 130km/hr.
Seat belts must be worn at all times and it is illegal for drivers
to use hand-held mobile phones. Following the letter of the
law all cars should be equipped with a first aid kit, warning
triangle, fire extinguisher, rear mud flaps and right and left
hand outside mirrors. Flouting the rules will cost you 200zł
(for using a mobile), 100zł (not wearing a seat belt) and up
to 500zł for speeding. The legal limit for drink driving is 0.2%
blood/alcohol level. Put simply, if you’re driving, don’t drink.
Foreigners can drive on their national licenses for six months
from the entry date on their passports. Carry your passport
as well as driving license whenever you fancy going for a spin.
After six months drivers must change to a Polish license.
Drivers from Australia, New Zealand, UK, Ireland, US and
Canada must take a written test before being issued with a
Polish license. Be warned, the test is in Polish. For roadside
assistance call tel. 981.
GETTING AROUND
Marriott and the Sheraton have fixed price taxis (available
to non-guests) and charge approximately 50zl respectively.
MPT taxis stand outside and cost approximately 25zl to the
centre. The bus to the city centre is N°175 and the stop is on
the fourth island outside the terminal building. The city buses
stop at the red bus shelters and Warsaw Central station
is 16 stops from the airport. Buses run regularly between
04:51 and 22:51. After this there are two buses per hour (at
night the N°611 bus runs to Warsaw Central). Tickets can be
bought from the RUCH shop or from the machines outside
(coin operated only). Remember to validate your ticket as
soon as you get on board.
Car rental
Avis ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1
(Airport), tel. 022 650 48 72,
www.avis.pl. Also on al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel)
and ul. Łopuszańska 12a. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
Hertz ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1
(Airport), tel. 022 650 28 96,
www.hertz.com.pl. Also on
ul. Nowogrodzka 27. QOpen
07:00 - 22:00.
Arriving by train
Warszawa Centralna A/B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 54, tel.
022 94 36. The signs that greet you on the platform (peron)
are a hindrance more than a help, and it’s easy to be caught
in the labyrinth of subways. On arrival, whatever escalator you
take, there will be a kantor in close reach to exchange money.
Some of these are open 24hrs. The ticket hall is on the ground
floor, and here’s where we can give you the good news. The
days of ordering train tickets in fractured Polish are over. Now
open by the Relay shop close to the arrivals/departure board
is a newly opened office run by Polish rail (info line 022 94 36,
www.intercity.pl). Open from 06:30-21:30, the multi-lingual
staff here can search for the cheapest/easiest connection,
sell you international and domestic tickets, and can help plan
your trip for you. The services don’t stop there. They can
organize hotel rooms, restaurant reservations, taxis and even
flower delivery. The ticket hall has ATMs, a Tourist Information
office (08:00 - 18:00), and you can now even buy train tickets
from an automatic machine. The kiosks can sell you bus/tram
tickets and phone cards. Getting to town: Officially sanctioned
ELE taxis can be found outside the main entrance.
Budget ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. 022 650 40
62, www.budget.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
WARSZAWA
ul. Okopowa 47
tel.: +48 (0)22 636 63 93
fax: +48 (0)22 838 20 37
mobile: +48 (0)609 181 020
e-mail: warszawa@joka.com.pl
www.joka.com.pl
Arriving by plane
Warsaw Okecie (a.k.a Fryderyk Chopin Airport) is a fully
fledged international airport with a new terminal just added
right next door. On arrival you will be deposited on the ground
floor, to your left you will find left luggage and lost luggage.
ATM machines can be found on the ground floor as well as
numerous kantors (exchange offices) to exchange money.
Tourist information can be found in the IT office right by
the main exit (April 08:00 - 18:00, May 08:00 - 20:00).
Orbis also have an information office close by. The RUCH
shop on the ground floor sells stamps and phone cards.
The domestic terminal can be found right next door and
handles LOT flights across Poland. Although check in is
40 minutes before departure security checks often create
delays, especially during peak hours. International budget
flights (Sky Europe, Wizz etc) use the Etiuda terminal. The
terminal is absolutely basic and your best bet for tourist
info, car hire, taxis is to make the four minute walk to the
international terminal. Those wanting refreshment or to
log online should pop into the Courtyard by Marriott hotel
directly across from the international terminal. Getting to
town by taxi will cost from 20zł upwards. Hotel Sobieski,
Avis makes car rental run smoothly from beginning to end...
Just call:
AVIS Warsaw, Warsaw Airport
ul. Zwirki i Wigury 1
Phone: +48 22 650 48 72
Hotel Marriott, al Jerozolimskie 65/79
Phone: +48 22 630 73 16
www.avis.pl
April - May 2007
93
94
GETTING AROUND
Eur opcar ul. Żwirki i
Wigury 1 (Airpor t), tel.
022 650 25 64, w w w.
europcar.com.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Sixt ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. 022 650 20
31, www.sixt.pl. One of the world’s largest and oldest car
rental companies offers a choice of solutions from short and
long rental periods to holiday cars. There’s even a fleet of
limousines if you’re interested. Vehicles range from Seats and
middle-sized Peugeots to luxury Mercedes. Bonuses include
GPS and Sixt cards. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Speed
al. Witosa 31/21a, tel. 0 609 029 928, www.speedcar.
com.pl. Passenger cars for 5-7 people, limousines, vans and
buses. From US$25/day. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00
Trust Rent a Car ul. Konstruktorska 4, tel. 022 843 05
80, www.trustrentacar.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Public Transport
Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system criss-crossing the city as well as a good, but very limited, metro system
running from north to south. Over 1,200 buses operate in
and around the city, and most run from between 05:00 and
23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every
hour. All night buses display the number six, followed by a
two digit number. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip
the smaller stops. Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and
tram) can be bought from all kiosks bearing the green and
yellow RUCH logo, or anywhere with a sign reading Bilety. A
GETTING AROUND
95
In Your Pocket Mini Guides
Aimed at travellers who don’t wish to carry around
guidebooks In Your Pocket have produced a series of
discreet fold-out maps to Warsaw, Kraków and Gdansk,
with Wroclaw to be added in the future. Featuring hotel
listings, essential sights, and key drinking and dining
establishments our maps aim to highlight the very best
the city has to offer. For your free copy of ask at the
reception of your hotel in the relevant city.
single ticket is 2.40zł, one day passes 7.20, three day passes
12zł. Single journey tickets can in theory be bought straight
from the driver for an extra 0.60zł, though most will refuse to
sell you one after dark. Note that in winter the doors on trams
and buses do not open automatically. Look for the button by
the door. Once you’ve got a ticket you will need to validate
it into one of the box-style kasowniks, thus validating the
magnetic strip on the back. On the metro this must be done
before you get on board. It is no longer neccessary to buy
an extra ticket for animals or large pieces of luggage. Plain
clothes ticket inspectors regularly stalk the lines, dishing
out 120zł fines for those without valid tickets. For long-term
residents then the Warszawska karta miejska represents
the best value. Costing 66zł for a 30 day pass, or 166zł for a
90 day pass, you can pick one up from Metro Ratusz. When
boarding tram, bus or metro simply wave the card in front of
the kasownik and it will beep at you, displaying the expiry
date. You can recharge the card at any Strefa machine – all
of which speak accept coins and notes (up to 50zł), speak
English and German and say thank you. Find them in all
metro stations.
Download instant guides to
Poland online:
Taxis
The days when cash bells would ring whenever a cab driver
would hear a foreign accent might have passed, but it’s still
always better to ring ahead rather than just hailing a taxi in
the street. In particular avoid drivers who hawk their services
in the arrivals hall at the airport; we’ve heard plenty of horror
stories.All the companies we list will usually have someone on
their switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the state-run
firm, can boast the most reliable reputation. But you won’t
find many cheaper than Super Taxi. Find MPT taxis on the
Marriott tower side of the central station; it’s the second row
of cars. Tipping is not expected, but if your driver gets you
from A to B without a detour through the countryside then
by all means, feel free.
Halo Taxi tel. 022 96 23
Merc Taxi tel. 022 677 77 77
MPT tel. 022 91 91
Sawa Taxi tel. 022 644 44 44
Super Taxi tel. 022 96 22
Sco
April - May 2007
96
MAIL & PHONES
GETTING AROUND
Train schedule
From Warsaw
Dep. Arr
07:25 13:06
11:25 17:06
16:25 22:06
19:25 05:53
19:25 09:58
06:50 11:35
08:50 13:40
10:50 15:45
11:50 16:57
12:50 17:44
14:50 19:51
15:50 20:35
16:50 21:23
17:50 22:48
18:50 23:39
06:08 22:35
21:35 16:21
00:15 06:23
04:50 10:22
06:45 12:05
07:05 09:50
09:05 11:50
10:05 12:50
11:05 13:50
12:05 14:50
12:45 17:40
15:05 17:50
16:05 18:50
18:05 20:50
19:05 21:50
20:05 22:50
20:35
20:35
06:25
07:25
08:25
09:25
10:25
11:25
13:25
14:25
15:25
16:15
16:25
16:55
17:25
18:25
06:00
12:00
21:35
06:25
08:25
14:25
16:15
17:10
18:25
08:01
19:54
09:32
10:24
11:17
12:26
14:07
14:20
16:26
17:25
18:17
19:14
19:20
20:02
20:40
21:24
13:28
19:28
06:03
11:50
13:25
19:35
21:15
22:22
23:33
Destination
BERLIN Ostbf.
BERLIN Ostbf.
(16)
BERLIN Ostbf.
BRATISLAVA
(17)
BUDAPEST
GDYNIA (2) (18)
GDYNIA (2)
(18)
GDYNIA
GDYNIA
(1)
GDYNIA (19)
GDYNIA (1)
(4)
GDYNIA
(4)
GDYNIA
GDYNIA
GDYNIA
KYIV
KYIV
(4)
KRAKÓW
KRAKÓW
KRAKÓW
(9)
KRAKÓW
(9)
KRAKÓW (1)
(10)
KRAKÓW (2)
(11)
KRAKÓW
KRAKÓW
(10)
KRAKÓW (3)
(12)
KRAKÓW (3)
KRAKÓW
(1)
KRAKÓW
(13)
KRAKÓW (4)
KRAKÓW (5)
KRAKÓW
KRAKÓW
KRAKÓW (4)
MINSK
(20)
MOSCOW (21)
(25)(10)(18)
POZNAŃ (19)(26)(27)
POZNAŃ (18)(10)(25)
(25)(10)(18)
POZNAŃ
(27)(26)(19)
POZNAŃ (18)(10)(25)
POZNAŃ (19)(26)(27)
POZNAŃ(29)
(27)
POZNAŃ
POZNAŃ(27)
(27)(26)(19)
POZNAŃ (19)(26)(27)
(28)(27)(5)
POZNAŃ
POZNAŃ (19)(27)(28)
(28)(27)
POZNAŃ (19)(27)(28)
POZNAŃ
(19)
POZNAŃ
VIENNA Sudbf
VIENNA Sudbf
VIENNA Sudbf
(22)
WROCŁAW (22)
(22)
WROCŁAW (24)
WROCŁAW (13)
(3)
WROCŁAW
(23)
WROCŁAW (3)
(13)
WROCŁAW (3)
(15)
(15)
Train schedule Key
To Warsaw
Dep. Arr.
06:47 12:25
12:47 18:25
16:47 22:25
21:03 07:25
17:00 07:25
05:21 09:51
06:05 10:50
07:06 11:56
09:06 14:01
12:06 17:01
13:07 18:01
15:06 19:56
17:06 21:50
08:02
12:30
06:00
06:21
07:00
07:50
10:00
10:15
11:47
13:15
14:00
14:55
16:00
16:17
17:00
18:00
18:55
19:47
22:29
20:40
10:23
06:35
07:07
07:43
08:08
08:47
09:52
12:45
13:35
14:35
15:35
16:35
18:35
19:35
23:21
06:45
08:45
11:06
09:45
10:45
12:45
15:06
14:45
18:05
16:45
17:45
18:45
21:06
19:45
20:45
21:45
22:48
04:45
06:30
06:30
09:20
09:55
10:55
11:24
11:42
12:47
15:50
16:40
17:35
18:25
19:25
21:25
22:25
09:08
14:33
22:33
05:05
05:26
06:35
10:35
14:35
16:27
16:35
22:09
06:40
09:55
10:40
11:42
15:50
19:25
21:25
Vilnius train was cancelled because of low capacity. Instead
there is a bus from Warszawa Centralna run by PKO Intercity.
(30)
23:00 9:00
VILNIUS(31)
22:00 5:00
Trains to and from Gdynia stop in Gdańsk approximately
30min before and after Gdynia.
For a full train schedule visit www.rozklad.pkp.pl
(1) except 8 April
(2) except 9 April
(3) runs Mon-Fri, Sun except 8-9 April and 1-3 May
(4) runs Mon-Fri, Sun except 8 April
(5) runs Mon-Fri, Sun
(6) runs Mon-Fri except 9 April, 1-3 May
(7) runs Wed,Fri,Sun except 16-17 April
(8) runs Thu,Tue,Sat except 15-16 April, From 17 April
arrives in Kraków 14:00
(9) runs from Mon-Sat except 9 April
(10) except 8-9 April
(11) runs Mon-Fri, except 8 April and 1-3 May
(12) runs Mon-Fri except 9, 31 April and 1, 3 May
(13) runs Mon-Fri except 9, 30 April and 1-4 May
(14) runs Mon-Sat except 9, 28 April and 30 May.
(15) except 6-9, 21, 22 April
(16) except 4, 6-9, 20-22 April
(17) except 9-16 May
(18) except Sun
(19) runs Mon-Fri
(20) runs until 25 May
(21) runs until 26 May
(22) runs from Mon-Sat except 9 April, and 2, 3 May
(23) runs Sat only
(24) runs Sun only
(25) except 2, 3 May
(26) except 7, 8, 9 April
(27) except 1 - 5 May
(28) except 7, 8 April
(29) except 6 - 9 April
(30) runs Mon, Wed, Fri
(31) runs Tue, Thu, Sat
Airlines
Aer Lingus C-4, al. Ujazdowskie 20, tel. 022 626 84
02, www.aerlingus.com.
Aeroflot G-3, al. Jerozolimskie 29, tel. 022 621 16 11,
www.aeroflot.com.
Aerosvit Airlines A-3, al. Jana Pawła II 15, tel. 022 697
69 50, www.aerosvit.com.
Air France C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 556 64 00,
www.airfrance.pl.
Alitalia C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 692 82 85,
www.alitalia.it.
American Airlines G-3, al. Ujazdowskie 20, tel. 022 625
30 02, www.aa.com.
Austrian Airlines al. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 0 801 40
40 40, www.austrian.com.
British Airways ul. Marszałkowska 76, tel. 00 800 441
15 92/022 529 90 00, www.ba.com.
Centralwings, tel. 0 801 45 45 45, www.centralwings.
com.
easyJet, www.easyjet.com.
KLM ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 556 64 44, www.klm.
pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
LOT (Polish Airlines) B-7, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79
(Marriott Hotel), tel. 022 95 72, www.lot.com.
Lufthansa ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, www.lufthansa.pl.
Ryanair, tel. 00353 1 249 77 44, www.ryanair.com.
SAS A-6, al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 022 850 05 00,
www.scandinavian.net. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
SkyEurope, tel. 022 433 07 33, www.skyeurope.
com.
Wizz Air, tel. 022 351 94 99, www.wizzair.com.
International call cards
Intracall ul. Grochowska
278, tel. 022 870 15 72/0
801 88 39 93, www.intracall.pl. 25 & 50zł call cards:
0.29zł for W. Europe and US
Intrafon ul. Grochowska
278/13, tel. 022 870 15
72, www.intrafon.pl. Call
the US and Europe from as
little as 0,29zł per min.
Telepin ul. Długa 44/50, tel. 022 331 42 38, www.
telepin.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Internet cafes
Casablanca C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6,
tel. 022 828 14 47, www.casablanca.com.pl. A popular
student bar Casablanca is one of the few places where you
can drink lager while checking your mail. Chess competitions, karaoke nights and other events also organized. 9zł
per hour. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun
10:00 - 24:00. (9zł/h).
Cyber Cafe ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (in Courtyard by Marriott), tel. 022 650 01 72, www.courtyard.com/wawcy.
Poland’s best internet cafe. Seating sixty people the Courtyard Cyber Cafe offers high-speed wireless access, as well
as a menu that puts most Warsaw cafes to shame. 25zł per
hour. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. 35zł/h.
Silver Zone D-5, ul. Puławska 17, tel. 022 852 88 88,
www.silverscreen.com.pl. High speed access. QOpen
11:00 - 18:00. 5zł/h.
Simple B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, tel. 022 628 31
90, www.simpleinternetcafe.com. 150 flatscreen monitors
offering bullet speed internet access. Open 24hrs a day, log
onto the computers via a chip card – if you don’t use all your
credits then you can simply return at a later date and your
remaining credits will still be valid. Q Open 24hrs. (1-4zł/h).
Post
EMS courier service can be used from any post office in
town. The central Post Office is open 24 hours, 7 days a
week and is listed below.Postal ratesThe going price for a
non-priority letter under 50g:Poland 1.35zł Europe 2.40zł
& The rest of the world 2.50zł
Central Post Office (Urząd Pocztowy Warszawa
1) A-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 31/33, tel. 022 505 33 16,
www.poczta-polska.pl. Q 24hrs.
DHL D-3, ul. Grzybowska 77, tel. 022 661 50 12, www.
dhl.com.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Express Mail Ser vice (EMS Pocz tex) D-3,
ul.Towarowa 5 (Warszawa Centralna Railway Station),
tel. 022 557 95 08, www.pocztex.pl. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
FedEx
A-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Hotel Marriott), tel. 022
630 55 80, www.fedex.com/pl. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
TNT ul. Piłsudskiego 119, Marki, tel. 022 771 71 71,
www.tnt.com.pl. Q Open 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat,
Sun.
UPS ul. Prądzyńskiego 1/3, tel. 022 534 08 00, www.
ups-poland.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. 24hr call centre.
Telephone
Netia Telecom ul. Poleczki 13, tel. 022 711 87 87,
www.netia.pl.
TP S.A. A-3, ul. Twarda 18, tel. 022 93 93, www.
tpsa.pl.
Mobile phones
Mobile phones have ten digits and all start with either 05, 06
or 09. When calling from abroad, dial Poland’s international
access code (48) followed by the mobile number dropping the
initial 0. The easiest way for foreigners to lay their hands on
a mobile is to buy a ‘pay as you go’, non-subscription phone
(slightly more expensive). Plus GSM (Simplus), Centertel (POP)
and Era GSM (Tak Tak) will all be able to sell you one.
Era GSM ul. Puławska 15, tel. 022 413 44 44, www.era.
pl. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Orange F-4, pl. Konstytucji 6, tel. 022 628 84 52, www.
orange.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00.
Plus GSM E-3, al. Jerozolimskie 148, (Reduta), tel. 022
882 02 20, www.plusgsm.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
April - May 2007
97
98
SHOPPING
MAIL & PHONES
Books & Paper
Wi-fi access
If you’re travelling with the laptop then you’ll find a growing number
of internet hotspots in and around central Warsaw. All three of
Poland’s mobile networks offer Wi-Fi connection, and you will be
able to go online in most of their major retail outlets.
W Throughout our guide we have highlighted those
establishments (hotels, cafés, restaurants and bars) which
offer wireless free internet connection. This covers both
free access, where you are likely to need a network key and
password from the bar/reception, and paid access where
you will have to buy a card. Most places will have cards
available for sale. A typical choice is the cards necessary for
Orange hotspots. You can pay 9zł for a straight 2 hours
connection, 19zł which allows you 2 hours connection
over a period of 2 months or 29zł for a 24-hour card. In all
cases you will be given a scratch card which carries a number.
Open an explorer window and follow the instructions.
Country codes
Australia
Austria
Belgium
Bulgaria
Canada
Czech Rep.
Denmark
France
61
43
32
359
1
420
45
33
Germany
49
Greece
30
Hungary
36
Ireland
353
Israel
972
Italy
39
Japan
81
Netherlands 31
Poland
Romania
Russia
Spain
Sweden
UK
Ukraine
USA
48
40
7
34
46
44
380
1
American Bookstore E-4, ul. Koszykowa 55, tel.
022 234 56 37. Everything from architecture and history
to stacks of Harry Potter and Lonely Planet. An excellent
selection of translated Polish classics and a heavy choice
of Jewish-related literature. English classics are available
for as little as 10zł. The best bookshop in town. Also at ul.
Nowy Świat 61 and ul. Powsińska 31 (Sadyba Best Mall).ul.
Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
EMPiK Various locations including the flagship store on
(B-4), ul. Nowy Świat 15/17, tel. 022 627 06 50, www.
empik.com. Hefty selection of international magazines and
newspapers. Also loads of music, perfumes, video games,
photo services etc. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00
- 19:00.
Traffic Club ul. Bracka 25 (corner of
Chmielna), tel. 022 692 14 50. www.
traffic-club.pl. Also at Piaseczno, C.H.
Fashion House, ul. Puławska 42e, tel.
22 735 54 70. Multi-level store selling
English-language books, DVDs, CDs and
foreign language press. Full range of In
Your Pocket’s also available. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Clothes
Baumler ul. Bema 57a, tel. 022 837 44 74, www.
baeumler.pl. Ties, shirts, suits and other formal attire for
men. Labels include Boss, Zegna and the like. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Telephone Changes
Camaieu al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 022 331 21
51. Also on al. Jerozolimskie 148 (Reduta), ul. Mszczonowska
3 (Centrum Janki) and ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów).
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Claire.dk ul. Okopowa 58/72 (Klif), tel. 022 531 46
60. Also on ul. Marszałkowska 68/70, ul. Nowy Świat 58
and ul. Wołowska (Galeria Mokotów). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Deni Cler C-4, pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 022 627
34 45. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sun.
Diesel ul. Witosa 31, (CH Panorama), tel. 022 640 14 73,
www.dieselshop.pl. Also on ul.
Grochowska 241 QOpen 12:00 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
Ermenegildo Zegna C-4, pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 022
584 70 00. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
Escada C-4, pl. Trzech Krzyży 16, tel. 022 331 91 33.
Esprit B-4, ul. Górczewska 124, (Wola Park), tel. 022
533 41 47. Also on ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) and
ul. Marszałkowska 104/122. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
Forget-me-not C-3/4, ul. Chmielna 21/3, tel. 022
826 66 06.QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
12:00 - 17:00.
Gino Rossi B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 74, tel. 022 622 75
93. Also on ul. ul. Ostrobramska 75 C (Promeda), ul. Okopowa
58/72 (Klif), and ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) QOpen
10:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
TPSA, Poland’s telephone provider, started 2006 by
changing the way numbers are dialled. In brief: If you’re
phoning from land line to land line it is now necessary
to include the local area code, even if you are phoning
from within the city. Therefore the prefix 022 must be
used for all Warsaw numbers. This also applies to four
digit call centre numbers. We have changed all our listings accordingly.
Nothing has changed when phoning from mobile phones
to land lines (Era and Orange networks still use the
Warsaw prefix 22, while Plus use 022). We use local
numbers in all listings hence the appearance of 10-digit
numbers. In the case of our advertisers you will find one
of two forms being used. Either the local 10-digit number
or the international dialling form of the number. Please
note that it is not possible to use the international form
of the number when phoning from a land line, though it
is possible to use that form when calling from a mobile
telephone.
Polish city codes
Gdańsk
Katowice
Koszalin
Kraków
Lublin
0-58
0-32
0-94
0-12
0-81
Łódź
Poznań
Szczecin
Warsaw
Wrocław
0-42
0-61
0-91
0-22
0-71
April - May 2007
99
100
SHOPPING
SHOPPING
H&M B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 022 551
73 40, www.hm.com. Also on ul. Ostrobramska 75c (Promenada), Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Górczewska 124 (Wola
Park) QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
Hugo Boss pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 022 627 24
00. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Lacoste C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 4, tel. 022 628 25 37,
www.lacoste.com. Also ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów)
LFC ul. Grochowska 241a,
Gianfranco Ferre, Martin Margiela, Dsquared, Diesel for LFC,
D2 by Vicini.
Flora E-1, ul. Dzika 19/23, tel. 022 635 61 62, www.
kwiaciarniaflora.com.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00
- 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
Kwiaciarnia B-4, corner of ul. Marszałkowska and ul.
Żurawia, tel. 022 629 34 52, www.kwiaciarnia87.com.
QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
Kwiaciarnia C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 022 826 44 58,
www.kwiaciarnia-nowyswiat.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Gifts & Souvenirs
Artis Galeria Sztuki Użytkowej ul. Emilii Plater 47,
tel. 022 620 59 30, www.artisgleria.pl. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Bazarnik - Nowy Świat ul. Nowy Świat 66, tel. 022
826 43 34, www.bazarnik.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Lilla Moda C-4, ul. Żurawia 2, tel. 022 621 57
74, www.lilla.com.pl. Also on ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria
Mokotów). Brands include D&G, Versace, Liu Jo, Exte,
GF Ferre, Just Cavalli, Versus, C’N’C, Philosophy, Iceberg,
Trussardi. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
Lord B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 87, tel. 022 625 34 96,
www.lord.waw.pl. Elegant clothes for men and women,
made-to-measure shirts, bags. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Mango ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 022
541 34 92, www.mango.com. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Maya Cormier C-4, ul. Mokotowska 61 (corner of
ul. Wilcza), tel. 022 626 06 55.pl. Exclusive and stylish
maternity and baby clothes such as Armani Junior. QOpen
12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Moschino B-3, ul. Marszałkowska 140.
Natalia Jaroszewska C-3/4, ul. Chmielna 27/31,
www.jaroszewska.moda.com.pl. Cocktail, evening and
wedding dresses, as well as casual wear courtesy of one of
Poland’s top designers.
Odzieżowe Pole G-4, ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 022
622 48 67. Nationally famous Polish designer gear for women.
Peek & Cloppenburg ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). Also on ul. Powsińska 31 (Sadyba Best Mall).
Penny Black ul. Okopowa 58/72, CH Klif, tel. 022 531
45 37, www.pennyblack.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00
Timberland CH Arkadia
(al. Jana Pawła II 82), Galeria Mokotów (ul. Wołoska 12), CH Promenada (ul.
Ostrobramska 75c).
van Graaf ul. Zlota 59 (Złote Tarasy) tel. 022
222 07 30 www.vangraaf.pl. Sophisticated fashion
for men and women with professional staff in the brand
new Złote Tarasy centre.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
Flowers
Aga Flowers D-1, ul. Okopowa 58/72 (Klif Shopping
Centre), tel. 022 531 45 13. Also on ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria
Mokotów) QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Cepelia B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, tel. 022
628 77 57, www.cepelia.pl. Also at pl. Konstytucji 5, ul.
Francuska 49, ul. Krucza 23, ul. Chmielna 8. Your first stop for
tacky souveniers. Amongst the tat also find tradtional Polish
handicrafts: table cloths, ceramics, glass etc. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Perfume & Beauty
Douglas C-3, ul. Chmielna 1/3, tel. 022 692 88 10,
www.douglas.pl. Also on ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola Park)
Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00
- 17:00.
Perfumeria Francuska ul. Puławska 427, tel. 022 529
76 98. Also on ul. Jubilerska 1/3 (King Cross).
Perfumeria Noory al. Witosa 31 (Panorama), tel. 022
640-11-56.
Roxana al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 022 827 00 19, www.
roxana-perfumeria.pl. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
Sephora al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 022 331
52 05, www.sephora.pl. Also on ul. Jubilerska 1/3 (Geant),
ul. Targowa 72 (Centrum Wileńska), ul. Ostrobramska 75c
(Promenada), ul. Mszczonowska 3 (Centrum Janki), Nowy
Świat 15/17, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122 (Galeria Centrum),
ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), ul. Powsińska 31 (Sadyba
Best Mall). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Shoes
Apia ul. Okopowa 58/72 (Klif), tel. 022 531 47 21,
www.apia.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Bagatt C-4, ul. Mokotowska 42/44, tel. 022 621 91
44, www.bagatt.it. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
Deichmann ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel.
022 852 31 86, www.deichmann.pl. Also on ul. Targowa
72 (Centrum Wileńska), ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola Park), ul.
Stalowa (Tesco), pl. PIłsudskiego 1, Marki (M1) QOpen 10:00
- 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Specialty shops
Aroma Bar C-4, ul. Mokotowska 67, tel. 022 621 51 48.
Inaba B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 022 622 59 55,
www.inaba.com.pl. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
Monti Cigars C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44
(Bristol hotel), tel. 022 551 18 51. Also at al. Jerozolimskie
179 (Blue City), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). Warsaw’s
top cigar retailer. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 15:00 - 22:00.
April - May 2007
101
102
SHOPPING
Porthos ul. Marszałkowska 9/15, tel. 022 825 09 07,
www.porthos.com.pl. Hats! And lots of them. A winter lifeline.
Quadrat ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 022 627 01 61, www.
quadrat.pl. Designer jewellery.
Antiques & Art Galleries
Antyki G-2, ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. 022 826 32 57.
Antique store and commission sales. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Art Gallery ul. Piwna 12/14, tel. 022 635 29 38.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Desa C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 51, tel. 022 827 47 60, www.
desa.pl. A wide selection of antique porcelain, glass statues
as well as some furniture and paintings. QOpen 11:00
- 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Prima Porta Antiquities C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 2 (enter
from ul.Ksiazeca), tel. 0 601 934 052, www.primaportaantiquities.com. One to explore. Amongst numerous
artefacts find sculptures and other articles dating back to
the Chinese Han and Ming dynastys as well as antiques from
ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt and the Far East. QOpen 12:00
- 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Children
Endo G-4, ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 022 629 30
65. Top and Polish clothes, books and teddy bears for kids.
Niebieskie Migdały G-4, ul. Mokotowska 61, tel.
022 629 11 92, www.niebieskiemigdaly.com. Furniture
and toys for babies and toddlers. Upmarket. QOpen 11:00
- 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
SHOPPING
Smyk C-4, ul. Krucza 50, tel. 022 551 43 00, www.
smyk.com. Also on ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów),
ul. Targowa 72 (Cen trum Wileńska), ul. Górczewska
124 (Wola Park) and ul. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia).
Childrens depar tment store packed wi th clothes and
toys. Q Open 09:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00.
Watches & Jewellery
Ambra ul. Piwna 17/19, tel. 022 635 82 97. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00.
Apart C-4, ul. Jerozolimskie 29, tel. 022 621 90 28,
www.apart.pl. Also on ul. Targowa 72 (Centrum Wileńska), ul.
Głębocka 15 (Centrum Targówek) and Marki, ul. Piłsudskiego
1 (M 1). Brands include Claude Bernard, Edox, Pierre Laniert,
Ted Lapidus. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
W.Kruk C-4, al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. 022 625
68 88, w w w.wkruk.pl. Also on ul. Okopowa 58/72
(Klif), ul. Ostrobramska 75 C (Promenada), ul. Wołoska
12 (Galeria Mokotów), pl. Konsty tucji 6 (F-4). Polish
jewellery and watches from various international brand
names including Empotio Armani, Rolex, Zenith, IWC,
Omega, Tag Heuer, Maurice Lacroix, Longines, Tissot,
Roamer, Anne klein Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
24h shops
Maribo ul. Ogrodowa 7, tel. 022 654 25 60.
Non stop Lech ul. Grójecka 22/24, tel. 022 659 40
40/022 822 08 12.
Rarytas Nocny pl. Hallera 8, tel. 022 818 25 66.
Shopping malls
Arkadia D-1, al. Jana
Pawła II 82, tel. 022 331
34 00, w w w.arkadia.
com.pl. If you can’t find it
in Arkadia, you probabl y
never will. Covering a total
area of 287 000 m2 Arkadia stands out as the biggest shopping mall in Central Europe. The five floor leviathan contains everything
you need to survive Warsaw, so it’s little wonder we know
of people who spend their lives stalking around its corridors; approximately 45,000 – 70,000 people visit each
day. Completed after three years of work fashion stores
include Lacoste, Gant, Peek & Cloppenburg and Tommy
Hilfiger, as well as ubiquitous high street chains like Zara,
Espirit and Kappahl. A giant Saturn store takes care of all
your electronic needs: from DVDs to sound systems. Carrefour takes a large chunk of the ground floor, though most
expats are making a beeline for the first Mark & Spencers
food department in the country. If you can’t find what you’re
after in there then head to Kuchnia I Świat. The shop is
tiny but is home to everything from Marmite and Pirri Pirri
sauce to Weetabix, Cadburys Chocolate and Dr Pepper.
English language books are available from American Bookstore, and foreign press from EMPiK. Entertainment comes
in the form of a 15 screen multiplex, and a wide variety of
food options: Ooh Sushi! and Louisiana being the culinary
highlights. The cherry on the cake appears to be the addition of a microbrewery, due to open in mid October (check
By Night). Connected by 15 tram lines and 20 bus routes,
and with a parking capacity of 4,000. QOpen 10:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
103
Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 022 541 41
41, www.galeriamokotow.pl. At 150,000m2 Galeria Mokotów has been eclipsed in size by Arkadia and Blue City,
but remains the mall of choice for a large number of expats.
Clothes wise stores include Clavin Klein, Lacoste, Versace,
Trussardi, Peek & Cloppenburg, as well as several high street
chains like Mango, Diesel, River Island and Claire.dk. The
entertainment center on the top floor includes bowling, food
court and Cinema City multiplex.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00. AL
Promenada ul. Ostrobramska 75c, tel. 022 611 39
52, www.promenada.com. On Warsaw’s east side, but
well worth the visit if you’re a clothes horse: Max Mara, CK,
Lagerfeld, Iceberg, Burberry, Donna Karen, Escada etc. Totalling an area of 121,000m2 Promenada was originally opened
in 1996, making it somewhat of a granddaddy in Warsaw’s
mall wars. Also on site and Alma Hypermarket, Senator delicatessen, Greenway health store and Spiżarnia store selling
traditional Polish foods. In the way of entertainment there’s a
bowling and multiplex cinema to enjoy, having first impressed
your date with your ice skating skills on their glass domed ice
rink. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A
Blue City D-4, al. Jerozolimskie 179, tel. 022 824
45 55, www.bluecity.pl. Poland’s first mega mall, and
dubbed the ‘city within a city’. In the center of it all, a 26
metre fountain positioned under a giant glass dome. Covering an area of 218 000m2, the US$120 million project
is home to 224 retail units. Trading since March 2004 the
choice of shops includes specialist food stores like Piotr I
Pawel (full of expat goodies), Asian House, La Passion Du
Vin and Piwiarnia Gambrynus. American Bookstore and
EMPiK sell English books and press respectively, and the
‘Home City’ section has 30 stores containing everything
you need for house and home. Now, the fun stuff. Also
housed in the mall is a skate park and go-kart track, and
for younger mall rats the ‘Inca playarea’; a mini-funfair which
apparently is meant to evoke the spirit of Treasure Island.
Private medical center (Enel med) also onsite, and plans
to build a hotel in the pipeline. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Złote Tarasy A/B-4, ul. Złota 59, tel. 022 222 22 00,
www.zlotetarasy.pl. Warsaw’s monstrous train station now
has a new neighbour – the sparkling Złote Tarasy complex.
Officially opened on February 7, 2007 by Warsaw mayor,
Hanna Gronkiewicz Waltz, the first afternoon alone saw
64,000 people file through the doors. The 250 million Euro
project includes 225,000m2 of office, retail and entertainment
space, with underground parking for 1,600 cars. Projected
to draw a million visitors each month the complex signals a
bold shift away from the out-of-town malls found in Warsaw,
and familiar stores will include NEXT, Marks & Spencers, Aldo,
Poland’s first Body Shop, Hugo Boss, Van Graf clothes store
and EMPiK. Leisure visitors can visit Poland’s first Hard Rock
Cafe as well an express version of the Warsaw Tortilla Factory,
a branch of Wayne’s Coffee and a Burger King due to open in
the near future. Designed by Jerde Partnership International
(whose founder, Jon Adams Jerde, designed the Olympic Village for LA 1984), the central showpiece is a 10,000m glass
dome, fitted with a special mechanism to both filter sunrays
and to stop snow from building up. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
April - May 2007
104
DIRECTORY
DIRECTORY
24-hour pharmacies
Apteka ul. Puławska 39, tel. 022 849 37 57.
Apteka ul. Żeromskiego 13, tel. 022 834 58 04, www.
juventa.pl.
Apteka H-1, ul. Lubelska 1 (Warszawa Wschodnia train
station), tel. 022 818 65 13, www.juventa.pl.
Apteka Beata E-2, al. Solidarności 149, tel. 022 620
08 18.
Apteka Grabowskiego A-4, al. Jerozolimskie 54
(Central Station), tel. 022 825 69 86.
Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group
ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel.
022 737 72 00, info@corstjens.pl, www.
corstjens.com. Worldwide removal services,
excellent storage facilities and relocations to
and within Europe, Office and local moves also handled.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Business facilities
Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Centre
Officials
Australia B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. 022 521
34 44.
Austria H-5, ul. Gagarina 34, tel. 022 841 00 81.
Belarus ul. Wiertnicza 58, tel. 022 742 07 10.
Belgium B-2, ul. Senatorska 34, tel. 022 551
28 00.
Canada D-4, ul. Matejki 1/5, tel. 022 584 31 00.
China B-1, ul. Bonifraterska 1, tel. 022 831 38 36.
Czech Republic G-4, al. Róż 12, tel. 022 525
18 50.
Denmark F-5, ul. Rakowiecka 19, tel. 022 565
29 00.
Estonia F-6, ul. Karwińska 1, tel. 022 881 18
E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 022 356 55 55, www.
warsaw.hilton.com.
Holiday Inn A-3, ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 022 697 39 99,
www.holiday-inn.com/warsawpoland.
Hotel Jan III Sobieski E-3, pl. A. Zawiszy 1, tel. 022
579 10 00, www.sobieski.com.pl.
Hotel Mercure Fryderyk Chopin A-3, al. Jana Pawła II
22, tel. 022 620 02 01, www.accorhotel.com.
Marriott Hotel A-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 022
630 63 06, www.marriott.com.
Novotel Warszawa Centrum A/B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka
24/26, tel. 022 621 02 71, www.orbis.pl.
Sheraton Warsaw Hotel G-3, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 022
450 61 00, www.sheraton.com.
Sofitel Victoria Warsaw B-3, ul. Królewska 11, tel.
10.
Dentists
Finland G-4, ul. Chopina 4/8, tel. 022 598 95
Anglo-American Corporation E-1, ul. Dzika 19/23,
00.
France G-4, ul. Piękna 1, tel. 022 529 30 00.
Germany H-3, ul. Dąbrowiecka 30, tel. 022 584
17 00.
Greece G-3, ul. Górnośląska 35, tel. 022 622
94 60.
Hungary G-4, ul. Chopina 2, tel. 022 628 44 51.
Ireland ul. Mysia 5, tel. 022 849 66 33.
Israel F-4, ul. Krzywickiego 24, tel. 022 597 05
tel. 022 635 31 49, www.anam.pl.
Austria Dent Center G-3, ul. Żelazna 54, tel. 022 654
21 16, www.austriadent.pl.
Eurodental F-4, ul. Nowowiejska 37, tel. 022 875 00
88, www.eurodental.com.pl.
Hansa-Med G-4, ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 022 212 81
38, www.hansamed.com.pl.
00.
Ex-pat organisations
Italy F-2, pl. J.H. Dąbrowskiego 6, tel. 022 826
Alcoholics Anonymous A-4, ul. Św. Barbary (inside the
34 71.
library of the Świętej Barbary Church), www.aa-europe.
net. Meetings for English speakers are on Mon - Fri at 18:30,
Sat 11:00. Contact Jim at tel. 0506 449 534 or Zack at tel.
022 635 44 87
Curry Club Mostly Brits but other nationalities welcome.
They meet every Wednesday at around 19:30 in the Tandoor Palace. For more info call Howard Floyd at tel. 022
816 22 88.
Frogs & Co. www.frogsco.pl. Expat rugby club. For more
details get in touch with Christian Gaunt - club president - at
0 502 19 87 82.
Japan E-2, ul. Szwoleżerów 8, tel. 022 696 50
00.
Latvia ul. Aldony 19, tel. 022 617 43 89.
Lithuania G-3, al. Ujazdowskie 12, tel. 022 635
97 94.
Netherlands ul. Kawalerii 10, tel. 022 559 12
00.
New Zealand al. Ujazdowskie 51, tel. 022 521
05 00.
Norway G-4, ul. Chopina 2a, tel. 022 696 40 30.
Portugal ul. Francuska 37, tel. 022 511 10 10.
Republic of Korea H-4, ul. Szwoleżerów 6, tel.
Hash House Harriers Join others who enjoy walking/running in the forest, followed by a beer. Meet in front of the
Marriott Hotel at 14:00 alternate Saturdays. Contact John
Miller at tel. 022 831 78 49/0607 07 79 97, warsawhhh@
poczta.onet.pl.
NS2H3 A.k.a. ‘The not so serious Hash House Harriers’.
They organise runs, walks and cycle rides for the entire family
in a rural area close to Warsaw. Meet approximately every 3
weeks on Sunday, meal and drinks afterwards. Contact Tom
or Prew Bowtell (tel. 022 757 67 65, bowtell@ipgate.pl).
SWEA www.swea.org. The association of Swedish and
Swedish-speaking women abroad. Cultural, educational and
recreational activities throughout the year. For more info
contact warszawa@swea.org.
Fitness clubs & Gyms
Biorelax ul. Mickiewicza 72, tel. 0 501 08 80 75, www.
biorelax.waw.pl.
Diamond Pilates Studio ul. Powsińska 106 (entrance
from ul.Gołkowska near Sadyba Best Mall), tel. 0509 93
67 43/022 331 44 95, www.diamondstudio.pl.
Fitness Club Jerozolimskie B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 91,
tel. 022 622 53 99, www.fitness-jerozolimskie.pl.
Holmes Place E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel.
022 313 12 22. At 3,800m2 this is Warsaw’s largest fitness centre and includes a 25 metre pool, cafe and latest in
hi-tech equipment. Just opened so look out for promotional
membership offers.
Leisure Club C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44
(Le Royal Méridien Bristol Hotel), tel. 022 551 18 05,
www.warsaw.lemeridien.com.
Oasis Club G-5, ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Regency),
tel. 022 851 05 63, www.cluboasis.pl. Health club and
spad the offers top-class beauty treatments and products.
Sheraton Fitness G-3, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel),
tel. 022 450 61 00, www.fitness.com.pl.
World Class Health Academy A-4, al. Jerozolimskie
65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 022 630 51 16, www.
worldclass.pl.
Hairdressers
Cutting House ul. Wiejska 20, tel. 022 622 63 62,
www.cuttinghouse.pl. Exclusive hairdressers with English
speaking staff.
Franck Provost G-5, ul. Puławska 25a, tel. 022 646
46 47, www.franckprovost.pl.
Jean Louis David C-2, ul. Moliera 8, tel. 022 826 46
12, www.jld.com.pl.
Maciej Wróblewski ul. Widok 8, tel. 022 690 67 89,
www.maciejwroblewski.pl. One of the top hair studios
in Poland.
022 559 29 00.
Russia G-5, ul. Belwederska 49, tel. 022 621
34 53.
Slovakia ul. Litewska 6, tel. 022 525 81 10.
South Africa F-4, ul. Koszykowa 54, tel. 022
625 62 28.
Spain G-4, ul. Myśliwiecka 4, tel. 022 622 42
50.
Sweden G-5, ul. Bagatela 3, tel. 022 640 89 00.
Ukraine G-4, al. Szucha 7, tel. 022 622 47 97.
United Kingdom G-4, al. Róż 1, tel. 022 311
00 00.
USA G-4, al. Ujazdowskie 29/31, tel. 022 625
14 01.
105
April - May 2007
106
DIRECTORY
STREET REGISTER
International schools
American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202,
Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 022 702 85 00, www.asw.
waw.pl.
British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 022 842 32
81, www.thebritishschool.pl.
Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry ul. Nobla 16, tel.
022 616 14 99, www.saint-exupery.pl.
International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel.
022 649 14 40, www.ias.edu.pl.
Private clinics
Alfa - Lek B-4, ul. Nowy Świat 58a (enter from ul. Ordynacka), tel. 022 826 45 02, www.alfa.lek.com.pl.
Centrum Medyczne Puławska ul. Puławska 33,
Piaseczno, tel. 022 716 53 49, www.cmpulawska.com.
pl. The not-quite laying on of hands.
Damian Hospital ul. Wałbrzyska 46, tel. 022 566 22
22, www.damian.com.pl. English-speaking doctors and
home visits available 24hrs a day. Also at ul. Foksal 3/5.
Euromed E-3, al. Jerozolimskie 123 (Reform Plaza), tel.
022 529 70 00, www.euromed.pl.
Falck ul. Sapierzyńska 10, tel. 022 536 97 41, www.
falck.pl. also at ul. Mariańska 1.
Gromada Medica pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel.
022 582 94 55, www.medica.gromada.pl.
J.J. Capricorn C-1, ul. Podwale 11, tel. 022 831 86 69,
www.jjcapricorn.com.pl.
LIM Medical Center A-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 022 458 70 00, www.cmlim.pl.
Lux-Med ul. Racławicka 132 b, tel. 022 332 28 88,
www.luxmed.pl.
Medicover D-4, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18, tel.
022 95 96, www.medicover.com.
Spa & Beauty
Celebrity Beauty & Spa A-3, Rondo ONZ 1, tel. 022
335 77 44, www.celebrity.com.pl. 400m2 right in the city
centre offering a vast number of treatments from head to toe.
High standards and moderate prices guaranteed.
Domisol Salt Cave ul. Smolna 36/7, tel. 022 826 61
96, www.domisol.pl.
Elite Laser Therapy Center A-3, ul. Pereca 2, tel. 022
652 34 62, www.elite.waw.pl.
Holmes Place E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel.
022 313 12 22. At 3,800m2 this is Warsaw’s largest fitness centre and includes a 25 metre pool, cafe and latest in
hi-tech equipment. Just opened so look out for promotional
membership offers.
Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 022 622 94 28, www.
lespa.pl. This is an authorized Lancome beauty parlour. In
addition to spa and beauty treatments they have emergency
services: the ‘last minute’ treatment is a facial and make up
job fixed within an hour, or you can top up your tan in less than
an hour with the ‘before party’ package.
Nail Club D-1, al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia Shopping
Centre), tel. 022 331 65 62. Manicure 40-80zł, pedicure
70-130zł, gel 170-240zł, acrylic 150-220zł.
RiverView Wellness Centre A-4, ul. Emilii Plater 49
(InterContinental), tel. 022 328 86 40, www.riverview.
com.pl.
Terra Spa ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 022 622 14 17,
www.terraspa.pl.
Real estate
Centur y 21 Atlantis Real E state B - 3, ul.
Swietokrzyska 32, tel. 022 654 21 21, www.c21atlantis.
pl. Estate agents with an office in central Warsaw with offers
ranging from flats to large developments.
Immopol ul. Bartycka 24/3, tel. 022 651 04 75, www.
immopol.com.pl.
Mamdom, www.mamdom.com. Mamdom.com is Polands
largest Anglo-Polish Property Portal listing thousands of real
estate offers from estate agents, private individuals, government organisations and companies. Every single offer has at
least one image and the descriptions are all translated into
English by a native speaker, not a computer. You can choose to
deal directly with the sellers (who often speak English) or make
use of interpretors, drivers, and other services. Mamdom
charges no commission on any property purchases.
Mansion & House al. 3 Maja 2/35, tel. 022 621 15
15, www.mansionhouse.pl.
The Polish Property Company ul. Grójecka 40/55,
tel. 022 668 58 36, www.thepolishpropertycompany.
com. The Polish Property Company will organise fully escorted
tours and property viewings and explain the buying process
in plain English. Although based in Warsaw, they offer their
services nationwide.
Unigroup ul. Marszałkowska 83 lok. 1, tel. 022 628 81
85, www.uni-group.pl. Commercial and residential rentals
in all quarters of the city.
Relocation companies
AGS International Movers ul. Krasnowolska 21/27b,
tel. 022 644 85 53, www.ags-worldwide-movers.com.
Allied Pickfords ul. Łopuszańska 38, tel. 022 846 70
03, www.alliedpickfords.pl.
Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23,
Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. 022 737 72 00, info@
corstjens.pl, www.corstjens.com.
Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 022
878 35 35, www.expressrelocations.com.
Mamdom www.mamdom.com. Mamdom.com is Poland’s
largest Anglo-Polish Property Portal. In addition to listing
thousands of real estate offers in English they also provide
a number of extra services including help with relocating to
Poland. A native Pole fluent in English is at your disposal for
48 hours to help you orientate to your new surroundings. Help
includes checking tenancy agreements, organising utilities
such as electricity, gas, internet access and television and
getting to know your local area.
Move One Relocations ul. Koszykowa 54, tel. 022
630 81 60, www.moveone.info.
PRO Relocation ul. Kaniowska 41, tel. 022 869 04
40, www.prorelo.com.
Universal Express ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 022 878
35 00, www.uexgroup.com.
1 Sierpnia
D-6/7
29 Listopada
H-4
Aleje Ujazdowskie
G-3/5
Andersa, gen.
A-1/2 (E-1/2)
Anielewicza
A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Archiwalna
D-5
Armii Ludowej, al.
F/H-4
Bagatela
G-4/5
Bagno
B-3
Banachago
D/E-5
Bankowy, pl.
A-2 (F-2)
Barbary, św.
F-3
Barokowa
B-2
Barona
D-2
Batorego
E/F-5
Bednarska
B/C-2
Bellottiego
D-2
Belwederska
G-5/6
Biała
A-3 (E-2)
Białobrzeska
D-4/5
Bielańska
B-2 (F-2)
Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. D-4/5
Bobrowskiego
D-5
Boduena
B-3
Bohaterów Getta
A-2 (E/F-1)
Bohdanowicza
D-6
Boleść
B-1
Bonifraterska
A/B-1
Bracka
C-4
Browarna
C-2/3 (G-2)
Brylowska
D-3
Brzeska
H-1
Brzozowa
B-1
Bugaj
B-1/2
Bytnara
F-6/7
Canaletta
B-2
Celna
B-1/2
Chałubińskiego
A/B-4 (F-3/4)
Chełmska
H-6
Chłodna
A-3 (D/E-2)
Chmielna
A-4, B/C-3/4
Chocimska
G-5
Chodkiewicza
E-5/6
Chopina
G-4
Ciasna
B-1
Ciepła
A-3 (E-2)
Cicha
C-3
Corazziego
B-2
Czackiego
B-3 (F-2)
Czerniakowska
G/H-3
Czerska
H-5/6
Czeska
H-2
Dąbrowskiego, pl.
B-3 (F/G-6)
Dawna
B-1/2
Defilad, pl.
B-4 (F-3)
Dickensa
D-5
Długa
A/B-1/2 (F-1)
Długosza
D-2
Dobra
C-2/3 (G-1/2)
Dobrzańskiego
A-3
Dolna
G-6
Drewniana
C-3
Dubois
A-1 (E-1)
Dzielna
A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Dzika
D/E-1
Elektoralna
A-2/3 (E-2)
Emilii Plater
A/B-3/4 (F-3)
Esperanto
E-1/2
Etiudy Rewolucyjnej
E-7
Filtrowa
E-4
Floriańska
G-1
Foksal
C-3 (G-3)
Franciszkańska
A/B-1
Francuska
H-2
Frascati
C-4
Fredry
B-2 (F-2)
Freta
B-1 (F-1)
Furmańska
C-2 (F/G-2)
Gagarina
G-5
Gałczyńskiego
C-3
Gamerskiego
B-2
Geodetów
D-5
Gęsta
C-2
Gibalskiego
D-2
Górnośląska
H-3
Górska
H-5/6
Górskiego
B/C-3
Goszczyńskiego
F/G-6
Goworka
G-5
Graniczna
B-3
Grodzka
C-2
Grójecka
D/E-4/6
Grzybowska
A-3 (E/F-2/3)
Grzybowski, pl.
A/B-3
Grzymały
D-4
Hoża
B/C-4 (F/G-3)
Hynka
D-7
Idzikowskiego
G/H-6/7
Inflancka
A-1
Iwicka
H-5
Jaktorowska
D-3
Jana Pawła II, al.
A/B-2/4
Jana Sobieskiego
G/H-5/6
Jasielska
D-6
Jasna
B-3
Jazdów
G-4
Jerozolimskie, Al.
A/C-3/4
Joliot-Curie
F-7
Kacza
D-2
Kaliska
D-4
Kanonia
B-2
Kapitulna
B-2
Karasia
C-3
Karmelicka
A-2 (E-1/2)
Karolkowa
D-2/3
Karowa
C-2 (F/G-2)
Kasprzaka
D-3
Kazimierzowska
F-5
Kępna
H-1
Kilińskiego
B-1/2
Klonowa
G-5
Kłopotowskiego
G-1
Kolberga
F-7
Kolejowa
D/E-3/4
Konduktorska
G-6
Konopnickiej
C-4
Konstytucji, pl.
F-4
Konwiktorska
A/B-1
Kopernika
C-3
Kopińska
D-4
Korotyńskiego
D-6
Kościelna
B-1 (E/F-1)
Koszykowa
E/G-4
Kotlarska
D/E-2/3
Kozia
B-2
Koźla
B-1 (F-1)
Krakowskie Przedmieście B/C-2/3
Krasickiego
F/G-7
Krasińskich, pl.
B-2 (F-1)
Krasnołęcka
H-5
Kredytowa
B-3 (F-2)
Krochmalna
A-3 (E-2)
Królewska
B-3 (F-2)
Krucza
C-4 (F/G-3)
Kruczkowskiego
C-3 (G-2)
Krywulta
C-3
Krzywe Koło
B-1
Krzywickiego
E-4
Książęca
C-4 (G-3)
Kubusia Puchatka
C-3
Kusocińskiego
G/H-4
Kwiatowa
F-5
Lądowa
G-5
Łazienkowska
H-4
Lenartowicza
F/G-6/7
Lennona
G-4
Leszczyńska
C-3
Leszno
D-2
Leszowa
E/F-4/5
Lewartowskiego
A-1/2 (E-1)
Lindleya
A-4 (E-3/4)
Lipowa
C-2
Litewska
G-4
Lubelska
H-1
Łucka
A-3 (E-3)
Ludna
G/H-3
Ludowa
G-6
Lwowska
F-4
Madalińskiego
FG-5/6
Majewskiego
D-5
Małachowskiego, pl.
B-3
Malczewskiego
F/G-6
Mariańska
A-3
Mariensztat
C-2
Markowska
H-1
Marszałkowska
B-2/4 (F-2/4)
Matejki
C-4
Mazowiecka
B-3 (F-2)
Miączyńska
E-6/7
Miedziana
A-4 (E-3)
Miła
A-1 (D/E-1)
Miłobędzka
E-6
Miodowa
B-2 (F-1)
Mireckiego
D-2
Mirowski, pl.
A-3 (E-2)
Młynarska
D-2
Mokotowska
C-4 (G-3/4)
Mołdawska
D-6
Moliera
B-2 (F-2)
Moniuszki
B-3
Mostowa
B-1 (F-1)
Muranowska
A-1 (E-1)
Mysia
C-4
Myśliwiecka
G/H-4
Na Rozdrożu, pl.
G-4
Na Skarpie, al.
G-3
Nabielaka
G-5
Nalewki
A-1/2
Narbutta
F/G-5
Narutowicza, pl.
D-4
Nehru
H-5
Niecała
B-2
Niemcewicza
D/E-4
Niepodległości, al.
F/G-4
Niska
A-1
Niska
D/E-1
Niżyńskiego Pasaż
B-3
Nowiniarska
B-1
Nowogrodzka
A/C-4 (E/F-3)
Nowolipie
A-2 (E-2)
Nowolipki
A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Nowowiejska
E/G-4
Nowy Świat
C-3/4 (G-2/3)
Oboźna
C-3
Obozowa
D-2
Oczki
E/F-3/4
Odolańska
F/G-6
Odyńca
F/G-6
Ogrodowa
A-3 (E-2)
Okólnik
C-3
Okopowa
1/2-D
Okrąg
G/H-3
Okrzei
G-1
Oleandrów
F/G-4
Olimpijska
E-6
Olkuska
G-6
Olszewska
G-5
Olszowa
G-1
Ondraszka
E-4/5
Opolski, pl.
D-2
Ordynacka
C-3 (G-2)
Orla
A-2/3 (E-2)
Orłowicza
G-3
Ossolińskich
B-2
Padewska
G-6
Panieńska
G-1
Pańska
A-3/4 (E-3)
Parkowa
G-5
Pasteura
D-4/5
Paszyna
D-1
Pawia
A-2 (D/E-2, E-1)
Pawińskiego
D-5/6
Pereca
A-3 (E-3)
Piaseczyńska
G-6
Piekarska
B-2
Piękna
F/G-4
Piłsudskiego, marsz. pl. B-3 (F-2)
Piwarskiego
G/H-6
Piwna
B-2
Płatowcowa
E-6
Platynowa
E-3
Podchorążych
G/H-5
Podwale
B-1/2 (F-1)
Pokorna
A-1
Polna
F/G-4
Poniatowskiego, ks. Al.
H-2
Powązkowska
D-1
Powstańców Warszawy, pl. B-3
Poznańska
B-4 (F-3)
Promenada
G-5/6
Prosta
A-4 (D/E-3)
Próżna
B-3
Prusa
C-4
Pruszkowska
D-6
Przechodnia
A-2/3
Przemyska
D-5
Przyokopowa
3-D
Przyrynek
B-1
Ptasia
A/B-3 (F-2)
Puławska
G-5/7
Pułku Baszta
F-7
Pytlasińskiego
G-6
Racławicka
D/E-6
Radna
C-3
Rajców
B-1
Rakowiecka
E/G-5
Raszyńska
E-4
Rejtana
G-5
Rokitnicka
E-5
Rostafińskich
E-5
Róż, al.
G-4
Różana
F/G-5/6
Rozbrat
G-3
Rycerska
B-2
Rynek Nowego Miasta B-1 (F-1)
Rynek Starego Miasta
B-1/2
Rysia
B-3
Sandomierska
G-5
Sanguszki
B-1
Sanocka
D-5/6
Sapieżyńska
A/B-1
Sasanki
D-7
Senatorska
B-2 (F-1/2)
Schillera
B-2 (F-1)
Siedmiogrodzka
D-3
Sielecka
H-5/6
Siemieńskiego
D-5
Sienkiewicza
B-3
Sienna
A-4 (E-3)
Skaryszewska
H-1
Skarżyńskiego
D-5
Skierniewicka
D-3
Skorochód
D-5/6
Sławińska
D-3/4
Śliska
A-4
Słoneczna
G-5
Słupecka
D-4
Smocza
D/E-1/2
Smolna
C-3/4
Sokola
G/H-1/2
Solec
G/H-2/3
Solidarności, al.
A/C-1/3
Sosnowa
A-4
Spacerowa
G-5
Spartańska
E-7
Spiska
D/E-4
Srebrna
F-3
Stara
B-1
Starościńska
F/G-5
Starynkiewicza, pl.
E-3
Staszica
D-2
Stawki
A-1 (D/E-1)
Stefana Batorego
E/F-5
Stępińska
H-5/6
Sulkiewicza
G-5
Świętojańska
B-2
Świętojerska
A/B-1/2 (E/F-1)
Świętokrzyska B/C-3 (E/G-2/3)
Szara
G-3
Szarych Szeregów
D-3
Szczęśliwicka
D-4
Szczygla
C-3
Szkolna
B-3
Szpitalna
B-3/4
Szucha, al.
G-4
Szwoleżerów
H-4
Tagore’a
F-6
Tamka
C-3 (G-2)
Targowa
G/H-1
Teatralny, pl.
B-2 (F-2)
Tłomackie
A/B-2
Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza
B-2/3
Topiel
C-3
Towarowa
D/E-2/3
Traugutta
B/C-3
Trębacka
B-2
Trojdena, ks.
D/E-5
Trzech Krzyży, pl.
C-4 (G-3)
Tuwima
C-3
Twarda
A-3/4 (E-3)
Tyniecka
G-6/7
Ujazdowskie, Al.
C-4
Unii Lubelskiej, pl.
G-4/5
Ursynowska
F/G-6
Wał Miedzeszyński
H-2/3
Walecznych
H-2
Waliców
A-3 (E-2/3)
Wałowa
A-1/2 (E-1)
Warecka
B/C-3 (F-2)
Waryńskiego
4/5
Wąski Dunaj
B-2
Wawelska
D/F-4
Widok
B-4
Wiecha
B-3/4
Wiejska
C-4 (G-3)
Wierzbowa
B-2 (F-2)
Wiktorska
F/G-6
Wilanowska
H-3
Wilcza
B/C-4 (F/G-3/4)
Wileński pl.
G-1
Willowa
G-5
Winnicka
D-5
Wioślarska
H-3
Wiślana
C-2
Wiślicka
D-5/6
Wiśniowa
F/G-5, F/G-6
Witosa, al.
H-6/7
Wodna
B-1
Wójtowska
B-1
Wolność
D-2
Wołoska
E/F-6/7
Wolska
D-3
Woronicza
E/G-7
Wronia
E-2/3
Wspólna
A/C-4 (F-3)
Wybrzeże Gdańskie
B/C-1/2
Wybrzeże Helskie
C-1 (G-1)
Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie C-2
Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie G-1/2
Wybrzeże Szczecińskie
C-1/2
Wybrzeże Szczecińskie
G-1/2
Ząbkowska
H-1
Zajęcza
C-3 (G-2)
Zakroczymska
B-1
Zamenhofa
A-1/2 (E-1)
Zamkowy, pl.
B-2 (F-1)
Zamoyskiego
H-1
Zapiecek
B-2
Zawiszy, pl.
E-3
Zbawiciela, pl.
F-4
Zbierska
G/H-5/6
Żelazna
A-3/4 (E-2/3)
Żelaznej Bramy, pl. A/B-3 (F-2)
Zgoda
B-3/4
Zieleniecka, al.
H-1/2
Zielna
B-3
Zimna
A-3
Złota
B-3, A/B-4 (E/F-3)
Zoli
G-4
Żurawia
B/C-4 (F/G-3)
Żwirki i Wigury
D/E-4/7
Żytnia
D-2
April - May 2007
107
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Warsaw
uprising museum
Hilton
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114
INDEX
+ One Bar
64
99 Restaurant
38
Absynt
35
Adam Mickiewicz
75
Adam Mickiewicz Museum of
Literature
76
Adler
37
Agrykola
22, 28
Airport Hotel Okęcie
28
Akashia
46
Ale Gloria
50
Amicus
26
Amnesia
61
Antrakt
48
Aramis
26
Arkadia
26
Arsenał
42
Arsenał - Archeological
Muzeum
77
Atos
26
Atrio
40
Aurora
61
Axis Bar
61
Bacio
42
Bacio Di Angelo
42
Balgera
42
Balsam
67
Banja Luka
30
Bar Below
61
Barbie Bar
67
Bazaar
40
Bazar na Kole
85
Bazar Różyckiego
82, 85
Belle Epoque
56
Beluga
53
Belvedere
50
Belwederski
22
Best Western Hotel
Mazurkas
20
Biblioteka
40
Bierhalle
40, 61, 69
Biosfeera
37
Bistro a la Fourchette
40
Bistro de Paris
32
Blender Bar
69
Blikle Café
56
Blue Cactus
54
Boathouse
49
Bojangles Bar & Lounge 69
Borpince
37
Boston Port
40
Boutique Bed & Breakfast 22
Bradley's
69
Brasserie
33
Brasserie Stanislas
35
BrowArmia
69
Buildings
82
Café 6/12
48
Café Balgera
48
Cafe Bar Lemon
62
Café Brama
56
Café Bristol
56
Café Design
33
Café Foksal
61
Campanile
22
Car Museum
77
Casa To Tu
54
Cava
56
Cesarski Pałac
32
Champions Bar
62
Champions Sports Bar
30
Charles de Gaulle
75
Chianti
44
Chicago's
30
Chłodna 25
56
Chłopskie Jadło
50
Church of St. Hyacinth
74
City Zen
33
Club 70
67
Club Hotl
67
Cocaine
67
Coffeeheaven
56
Coffee Karma
56
Column Bar
62
Compagnia Del Sole
44
Conquistador
49
Cork Irish Pub
69
Courtyard by Marriott
28
Czaji
33
Czuły Barbarzyńca
56
Daily Café
48
Deco Kredens
48
Dekada
67
Dekanta
33
Delicja Polska
50
Der Elefant
33
Dom Literatury
22
Dom Polski
50
Drink Bar
62
Dyspensa
41
Dziki Ryż
54
Efes
49
El Popo
54
Embassy
56
Enklawa
67
Envy
62
Etap
26
Ethnographic Museum
77
Execution Sites
83
Extravaganza
62
Fantom
70
Firemen's Museum
77
Flik
50
Foksal 19
41, 62
Folk Gospoda
50
Fotoplastikon
72
Fret@Porter
41
Frida
54
Fryderyk Chopin Museum 77
Funky Jimmy
62
Fusion
35
Galeria
70
Galeria Bali Buddha Club 38
Galla
70
Gestapo HQ
72
Gniazdo Piratów
62
Grand Hotel Orbis
22
Grand Kredens
41
Green Coffee
56
Greenway
37
Gromada Airport
28
Gromada Centrum
22
Ground Zero
68
Hana Sushi
47
Hard Rock Cafe
30, 62
Harenda
24
Hemisphere
62
Hetman
24
Hilton Warsaw Hotel &
Convention Centre 19, 105
Historical Museum of
Warsaw
77
Holiday Inn
19
Holy Cross Church
74
Hong Kong House
32
Honoratka
50
Hotel MDM
24
Hotel Metropol
24
Hyatt Regency
19
Ibis Hotel - Ostrobramska 24
Ibis Hotel - Stare Miasto 24
Ibis Hotel - Warszawa
Centrum
24
Ice Bar
62
Iguana
63
Il Sole
44
Inaba
47
Indeks
63
India Curry
38
InterContinental
19
Irish Pub
69
Izumi
47
Jan III Sobieski
20
Jan Kiliński
75
Jazz Bistro
69
Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka 69
Jazz Café Helicon
69
Jazz Hotl
33
Jeff's
30
Jesuit Church & Crypt
74
Jewish Cemetery
81, 82
Jewish Historical Institute 81
Kabacki Forest
79
Kafka
56
Kaiser
63
Kampinos Forest
79
Karat
25
Kareta
41
Katyń Museum
77
King Sigismund's Column 75
Klubo Kawiarnia
68
KOM
36
Koneser Vodka Factory 82
Kościuszkowców Monument 82
Krokiecik
57
Kurt Scheller's Restaurant 41
Kuźnia Królewska
86
Kwai
36
Kyriad Prestige
25
La Cantina
49
Lalka
42
La Patisserie
57
La Rotisserie
35
Latino Brasserie@ferdy's 41
Łazienki Park & Palace
79
Le Cedre
48
Le Regina
19
Le Royal Méridien Bristol 19
Level
63
Lila Weneda
42
Lodi Dodi
70
Logos
26
Lokanta
56
Lolek
63
London Steak House
32
Lord
25
Louisiana
30
Luztro
68
Łysy Pingwin
56
Maharaja
38
Maharaja Thai
54
Malinowa
34
Marak
49
Marconi
34
Maria
25
Marie Curie Museum
77
Mariensztat
72
Marriott
20
Mar y Sol
54
Maska
50
Mazowiecki
26
Mazurkas Travel
76
Melodia
63
Mercers
57
Mercure Warszawa Fryderyk
Chopin
20
Metalowcy
26
Mezza
34
Między Słowami
42
Milch Supper Club
68
Military Cathedral
74
Mojito
63
Molo
53
Mono
68
Monte Cassino Monument 75
Monument to the Ghetto
Heroes
81
Monument to the Warsaw
Uprising
83
Moonsfera
36
Museum of Asia and Pacific 78
Museum of Independence 78
Museum of Technology 78
Namaste India
38
Nathan's Villa Hostel
29
National Museum
78
Nicholas Copernicus
76
NoBo
64
Noodle Bar
47
Novotel Warszawa Airport 28
Novotel Warszawa Centrum 20
Nożyk Synagogue
81
Nu Jazz Bistro
69
Oberża Pod Czerwonym
Wieprzem
50
Oki Doki
29
Old Town Apartments
26
Opium
64
Orchidea
36
Organza
68
Organza Shot Bar
64
Osteria
53
Panorama Club
64
Paparazzi
64
Papaya
36
Pappa Grappa
44
Paprotka
68
Papu
34
Parmizzano's
44
Partner Hotel
25
Passe Partout
42
Patrick's
69
Pawiak Prison
72
Pędzący Królik
64
Photo market
85
Piccolo Bacio
47
Piekarnia
68
Pistaccio Lobby Bar &
Lounge
65
Pixel Club
65
Plan B
65
Platinium Club
68
Pod Gigantami
42
Pod Gwiazdami
65
Pod Samsonem
47
Podwale - Kompania Piwna 34
Poezja
34
Pole Mokotowskie
79
Polish Army Museum
78
Polish Landscape
76
Polonia Palace Hotel
20
Polskie Smaki
50
Portucale
53
Poster Museum
78
Powązki Catholic Cemetery 72
Powiśle Hotel
25
Praski
25
Premiere Classe
26
Profesorski
26
Prowansja
35
Qchnia Artystyczna
42
Qfajka
65
Radio Café
50
Radisson SAS Centrum 20
Railway Museum
78
Rasko
70
Red Orange
32
Republica Latina
49, 65
Republica Latina (Made In
Japan)
47
Residence Diana
26
Residence St Andrews
Palace
26
Restauracja Polska Przy
Trakcie
50
Restauracja Rybna
53
Restauracja Wilanów
87
Restauracja Zgoda
50
Reytan
25
Rialto
20
Roma
44
Royal Castle
73
Royal Route Residence
26
Różana Restauracja Polska 50
Rubikon
42
Russian Market
82, 85
Rusticoni
46
Sadhu Cafe
37
Sakana
47
Same Fusy
57
Samira
48
San Antonio
46
San Lorenzo
46
Santorini
37
Saski
79
SD Galeria
87
Sense
36, 66
Shanghai Suite
66
Sheesha Lounge
66
Sheraton Warsaw Hotel 20
Skład Butelek
66
Smaki Warszawy
52
So-An
47
Sofitel Victoria Warsaw 20
SomePlace Else
30, 66
Soviet War Memorial
82
Sphinx
49
St. Alexander's Church
74
St. Anne's Church
74
St. Benno's Church
74
St. Casimir’s Church
75
St. John's Cathedral
75
Stacja Rynek
66
Start Hotel Felix
28
Sts. Michael & Florian
Cathedral
82
Studio Buffo
42
Subway
49
Sunanta
54
Suparom Thai Food
54
Sushi 77
47
Sushi Teatr
47
Syrena
76
Szparka Café
66
Szpilka
57
Tam Tam
66
Tandoor Palace
38
Taqueria Mexicana
54
Tawerna Galeon
52
TGI Friday's
30
Theatre Museum
78
The Cinnamon
66
The Citadel
73
The Little Insurgent
83
The Living Room
66
The Mexican
54
The Oriental
32
The Westin
20
Tok
57
Tokio
47
Tomba Tomba
70
Tomb of the Unknown
Soldier
76
Tomo
47
To those deported and
murdered in the East
76
Tourist Information
72
Traces of the Ghetto
81
Tradycja Restauracja Polska 52
Trakt
76
Tricaffe
49
Tshingis Chan
49
Tygmont
69
U Fiszera
52
U Fukiera
52
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum
Of Modern Art/CSW)
74
U Kucharzy
52
Umschlagplatz
81
Underground Club Cafe
68
U Szwejka
42
Utopia
69, 70
Valencia
54
Vega
56
Venezia
46
Venti Tre
46
Vienna Café and Restaurant 57
View Tower
74
Villa Foksal
35
Villa Nuova
53, 87
Warsaw Apartments
26
Warsaw City Tours
76
Warsaw Tortilla Factory 54
Warsaw Uprising Museum 84
Warsaw Zoo
82
Wayne's Coffee
57
Wilanów Palace
86
Wook
32
W Oparach Absurdu
66
You&Me
35
Zadra
42
Zajazd Napoleoński
20
Zakątek
66
Zapiecek
53

WARSAW

Transcription

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