sgn summer travel guide

Transcription

Seattle Gay News
Issue 25, Volume 37, June 19, 2009
SGN summer travel guide
Mexican
Riviera cruise
Shaun Knittel
by Shaun Knittel
SGN Staff Writer
My expectations were exceeded time
and again, from food choices to deck
parties until 4 a.m. RSVP and the crew
An all-Gay cruise is the perfect way of the Norwegian Star delivered as
to test out your sea legs, make new promised – a freestyle cruise exclusive
friends, and get away from it all in the to the Gay and Lesbian traveler.
lap of luxury. There’s nothing quite
Getting There
like it. An all-Gay cruise is out-and-out
The RSVP Mexican Riviera Cruise
fun. The best part? You’re surrounded
by hundreds of Gay and Lesbian pas- began at the Port of Los Angeles. Arsengers; you are free to relax and be ranging travel from Seattle is a cinch.
yourself. The all-Gay cruise experi- A roughly three-hour nonstop flight
ence is perfect for the lone traveler, a from SEATAC to LAX is the most
Gay gaggle, or a pair of lovers spend- time-effective way to begin your jouring quality time together. Onboard ney. All the major carriers, as well as
the ship, you’ll enjoy all the amenities some of the budget airlines, offer seryou’d expect from a traditional cruise, vices to and from LAX. If the airline
but with a Gay twist; there are cus- of your choice does not fly to LAX at a
tomized activities, entertainment, and discount price, landing at the smaller
events designed to ensure a distinc- Long Beach airport is not an issue, because the miles from airport to seaport
tively Gay experience.
I spent seven days aboard the Nor- are virtually the same. If you are flying
wegian Star in April for the RSVP the same day as embarkation, you’ll
Mexican Riviera Cruise. I was trav- want to book an early flight. Rememeling solo, but soon found myself sur- ber, you are in Southern California;
rounded by passengers from all over Los Angeles area traffic can be unprethe globe. There was no “typical” pas- dictable at best. Not arriving on time
senger; virtually every body type, per- due to bad traffic is not an uncommon
sonality, and interest is represented. occurrence in L.A.
For lovers who want to take it slow
or friends itching for a road trip, you
can drive the beautiful Pacific Coast
highway, which offers breathtaking
views of some of the most beautiful
coastline in the world.
I’m a big fan of traveling by train.
While I’ve had great experiences with
AMTRAK, I advise against it in this
case. The cost and time vs. air travel
does not favor rail transportation. For
nearly the same amount – or much
cheaper, depending on how well you
search the web for that perfect deal –
you can be sipping a cocktail in southern California in no time. Remember,
you are on vacation; convenience and
cost should be at the top of your list.
Transportation to the ship from either airport was not provided for this
particular cruise; however, a taxi ride
from the airport or a West Hollywood
hotel should run around $50. If you’re
driving your own car, then you’ll find
plenty of parking on the pier. Cruise
ships are at Piers 19 - 21, and the name
of the vessel is clearly marked. Your
luggage can be delivered to your room
for you, or you can carry everything
aboard yourself. Embarkation usually
begins around noon with the last “all
aboard” call at 3 p.m., or one hour before the ship sets sail. It is important
to bring two forms of identification,
a valid U.S. passport being one of the
two.
The Ship
RSVP Vacations chartered the beautiful Norwegian Cruise Line, Norwegian Star. The 965-foot, 91,740-ton
ship is a floating city. With amenities
ranging from a spa and fitness center
to a beautiful theater and over 10 specialty restaurants, you get comfort and
attention whenever you desire. I was
impressed with the surprises aboard
the ship, like the library, art gallery,
and bridge room. I even watched a
movie in the ship’s small, quaint movie
theater. The pool on the weather deck,
featuring four hot tubs and two waterslides, was always full of eye candy,
day or night.
Convenience is the name of the game
when you are traveling with RSVP and
Norwegian Cruise Lines. Aboard ship,
see cruise page 26
2
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June 19, 2009
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June 19, 2009
Seattle Gay News
3
Oahu: Much more than
coconut bras and plastic leis
Scott Rice
Oahu
by Scott Rice
SGN Contributing Writer
Hawaii is one of those places you know
you’ll visit at one point. It’s one of the
world’s best-known vacation destinations,
after all. Unfortunately, Oahu also tends to
conjure images of kitschy luaus (we did the
Starlight Luau at the Hilton Village) coconut bras (brought one home to my neighbor
Penelope), and plastic leis that smell like
petroleum (didn’t see a single one). I won’t
tell you these things aren’t there, but I will
tell you there’s much, much more to experience.
If you go, expect to find a variety of
world-class shopping (tourists from Japan,
Hong Kong, and Australia have known this
for 20 years), restaurants, and hotels in the
midst of paradise. If you visited Oahu before 1985, you should go again because I
hear things have changed. From multimillion-dollar hotel renovations to the unfinished Trump Tower Waikiki, everything is
new under the sun – everything, that is, except the perfect stuff.
To Do
Waikiki is one of the most famous beaches in the world for numerous reasons. However, the best advice I can give is to take
care to schedule some time away from it.
Don’t get me wrong; the beach is beautiful.
But if you stay along the 30 odd blocks that
make up the relatively short stretch of protected turquoise surf and world-class shopping, dining, and lodging, you haven’t been
to Oahu.
The Iolani Palace
The only official royal residence in the
United States, the Iolani Palace is rife with
history and beauty. We got the VIP tour
with Zita Cup Choy, the sweetest woman in
all Hawaii and an encyclopedic fount of all
things pertaining to the palace and the royal
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Seattle Gay News
family. Zita Cup Choy began the tour on the
lanai by having us close our eyes while she
described what it might look like as guests
arrived for a royal banquet. She continued
to employ the illusion throughout the tour
and it added immensely to the experience.
King Kalakaua built the Iolani Palace,
completing it in 1882. It measures 34,104.5
square feet with four floors and 105 rooms.
The American Florentine style building is
accented with gorgeous wood floors, staircases, wainscoting, and trim.
After Queen Liliuokalani, the last Hawaiian monarch, was overthrown in 1893, the
palace became a government office building. The Junior League and the Friends of
Iolani Palace (FIP), the organization that
currently administers the palace under
a lease from the state, began restoration
work in 1969. Today, although the palace
has recovered its original glory, FIP is still
looking for thousands of artifacts that were
auctioned off following Queen Liliuokalani’s overthrow. Zita Cup Choy shared a
couple of fascinating stories of how some of
the treasures have already found their way
home.
Tours are available from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Tuesday through Saturday. Tours range
from $5-$20, and kids under 5 are free. The
palace is closed Sunday and Monday.
Snorkeling Hanauma Bay
There is only one place for the snorkeling
novice: The Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve,
located a short drive southeast of Waikiki
along the Kalaniana’ole Highway. The circular bay, remnants of a volcanic crater, is
home to thousands upon thousands of fish,
coral, and other marine life. Snorkeling
there is an otherworldly experience. I didn’t
realize some of those colors came in nature.
As perfect as the place is, there are a few
tips that can make the difference in whether
your day is awesome, or a bust.
Go early. Hanauma Bay opens at 6:00
a.m. Get there as early as possible. By 10:00
a.m. it’s starting to get crowded; by noon it’s
downright unpleasant with people. Parking
is $1, admission is $5, and renting snorkeling equipment and lockers is about another
$10. Be sure to bring some cash, snacks, and
bottled water.
For first-timers: You will watch a short
film about the bay, the wildlife, and snorkeling safety. Still, before you go out, talk to
one of the lifeguards for tips on getting in
and out of the water and using the snorkeling gear. The bay is protected, but it’s still
the Pacific Ocean and things can get danger-
June 19, 2009
ous. Use the path marked by buoys to get
into open water, otherwise you’ll end up
dashed against the sharp coral, leaving you
cut and bruised (this, by the way, is firsthand
knowledge). And getting to the open water
is the best way to escape the crowds and see
the greatest variety of marine life.
Motorcycling Around Oahu
Motorcycles are addictive. Once you get
really comfortable on two wheels, there’s
nothing that can compare. And riding
around Oahu was some of the best fun of the
entire trip.
We rented a couple of Honda Shadow
750s from Big Kahuna Motorcycle Tours
& Rentals (www.bigkahunarentals.com), a
short walk from our hotel on Waikiki. The
staff was laid-back, but friendly and knowledgeable. And we paid exactly what they
quoted us ($104.80 per bike for 12 hours)
when we made our reservations a couple of
months before the trip.
We headed northeast out of Honolulu on
the Pali Highway which climbs over the
Ko’olau Mountain Range to the windward
side of the island. Just over the summit is
the must-see Pali Lookout. The breathtaking views don’t take long to see, but they’ll
stay with you forever.
Take a left on Highway 83 at the bottom
of the mountains and wind your way along
the windward coast. The beaches here are
less famous than the surfing heaven of the
North Shore, but they’re also less crowded
and more user friendly. Find a spot, chug
some H2O, and re-apply the sunscreen before taking a dip.
Continue north on 83 through a mix of
small communities, farms, and resorts. Just
past the turnoff to Turtle Bay, you’ll begin
heading south and entering Oahu’s worldfamous North Shore. Summer is not the
time of monster waves, but that doesn’t deter folks from descending in hordes. It was
stop ‘n’ go traffic from Kawela all the way
to Hale’iwa; no fun on the motos. We took
a couple of breaks to shop and had some
killer fish tacos at a little joint called Killer
Tacos (they weren’t lying) with a sign that
said, “Let us roll you a fatty.” How could we
resist?
To get out of traffic we headed southwest
out of Wai’alua past Dillingham Airfield.
The locals will warn that it’s in the middle of
nowhere and to pack supplies, but it’s only
about four miles from Wai’alua to where the
road ends. Somewhere there is the beach
where they filmed early episodes of the television show Lost.
The beaches were filled with local folks
and military families (wonder if this had
something to do with the words of discouragement we got in Waimea?). The best part
is that as we were wading around out there,
we almost stepped on a herd of green sea
turtles playing in the surf. They were huge,
lovely, and surprisingly nimble and it was
the best thing on a day filled with some pretty good stuff.
Honolulu Fish Auction
The Hawaii fishing industry landed 28
million pounds of ocean fish in 2006, worth
an estimated $70.5 million. The Hawaiians
take their seafood seriously; you should, too.
If you don’t know your opah from your ono
and you keep getting your ahi confused with
your mahimahi, the Honolulu Fish Auction
on Pier 38 in Honolulu Harbor is the place
to visit.
We arrived a little after 6:00 a.m. to find
the guys unloading the Paradise 2001, a
green and white fishing boat filled with
big eye tuna, yellowfin tuna, swordfish,
striped marlin, mahimahi, opah, monchong,
hapu’up’u, and a few sharks.
Brooks Takenaka, local fish guru and head
of the employee-owned United Fishing
Agency, LTD, showed us around the refrigerated warehouse where the auction is held
every day but Sunday. Brooks took time out
of his busy day to give us a quick tour and
answer all of our questions so that as the
morning progressed, we knew exactly what
was going on. When you visit, seek him out.
He’s a class act and he knows his fish.
We hung out with the few fellow tourists
present watching the fish brought in and the
buyers milling around inspecting the catch
and deciding what they intended to bid on.
Each tuna is sliced near the tail to expose the
red flesh, and a core sample is taken from
the side so buyers can see what they’re bidding on.
The bidding begins and things happen
quickly. The gaggle of agency staff, fishers, and buyers surround the auctioneer and
move slowly down the row as each fish is
auctioned individually. It’s like an unhurried
ballet performed in rubber boots.
To Eat
Hawaii is home to such culinary delights
as bento, ahi poke, plate lunches, and a ubiquitous fascination with Spam. They also
have mastered the art of fusion cuisine. As
a cultural and geographic crossroads with
nearly every growing climate found on earth
available, the twin blessings of knowledge
and availability of ingredients makes for a
surprising culinary adventure on Oahu. It
doesn’t matter if you’re spending $10 or
considerably more, it’s easy to find something unique.
Want local bang for the buck? Try the plate
lunches and fish sandwiches at the Rainbow
Drive-In, 3308 Kanaina Avenue. The food is
fast and cheap but oh so tasty. My old axiom
proves true again: find out where the locals
go and you’ll find good cheap eats.
The BBQ beef plate lunch is piled with
a heaping mountain of thinly sliced skirt
steak grilled to (really) well done dropped
on top of two scoops of rice and a scoop of
macaroni salad. The steak has a charred soy
and ginger flavor that rocked my world. The
macaroni salad is pretty much what suburban moms made 30 years ago on the mainland, full of mayonnaise and celery and, in a
perfectly Hawaiian twist, strips of Spam.
The fish sandwich consists of a thin slice
of mahimahi heavily breaded and deep fried
to crunchy perfection. The soft white bun is
smeared with a mysterious, yet scrumptious,
yellow sauce that I just can’t place. I’m pretty sure mayonnaise was involved at some
point, but I’m stumped beyond that.
For the less adventurous, a familiar retinue
of burgers and sandwiches is also available.
Rumfire is the hot new lounge in the
Sheraton Waikiki, featuring terrific tapas,
lovely views of the beach with Diamond
Head as a backdrop, a tower of exclusive
rums, and constant ocean breezes lest you
forget where you are (which you won’t).
Rumfire has that unique quality in a bar that
makes you and everyone else feel a little
more beautiful.
I’ve never eaten so much raw fish in my
life, but when it’s this good, you dive right
My favorites of the specially ordered petit entrees were the Azure sashimi – made
with ahi tuna, served with an avocado and
watermelon radish salad, dribbled with ginger vinaigrette and papadum crisp on the
side – and the fresh opah, coincidently purchased that morning from the Honolulu Fish
Auction as we looked on, high heat (800 de-
grees) roasted with herbs, white wine, and
Meyer lemon.
The ahi sashimi was rich red with a firm
texture and a delicate flavor. The salad was a
strange and exotic blend of textures, tastes,
and spice that shouldn’t have worked, but
somehow did. Watermelon and avocado –
who knew?
The opah, a huge round fish with orangetipped fins, was crisp on the outside and delicately juicy on the inside. They said it was
roasted with lemon, white wine, and herbs;
but this was all about the fish and the hightech, high-temp oven. The opa was complemented by a side of oven roasted Waialua
asparagus with smoked citrus aioli.
Scott Rice
in. Our host, Scott Kawasaki, director of
Public Relations for Starwood Hotels and
Resorts Waikiki, got us an awesome table
with a killer view (I doubt there are tables in
the place without one). He then ordered up
a sampling of the rich tapas that are helping
make Rumfire famous.
The Ahi Poke Rumfire Style is a traditional Hawaiian raw ahi salad with an upscale twist. The fish is served in a crispy
corn taco stuffed with Maui onion, tobiko
sour cream, and gingered avocado. The
spiciness plays off the delicate texture of
the fish, and it’s all tied together with the
smooth sour cream.
The other hit of the tapas sampler was the
seared Kalua pulled pork quesadilla stuffed
with carmelized Maui onions, jalapenos,
and Lomi tomato served with cardamom
pineapple chutney. This is a classic example of how pleasant sweet and spicy can be
together in the hands of a master.
As we sat munching tapas and sipping
margaritas, I began asking Mr. Kawasaki
about the multimillion-dollar renovations
at Starwood’s other little hotel, the Royal
Hawaiian, that were just finished in March.
Since the Royal Hawaiian is right next door
to the Rumfire, he offered us a tour of the
luxurious icon, which was built in 1927 and
popularly known as the “Pink Palace of the
Pacific.”
As we looked over the famous Mai Tai
Bar and gardens in the Royal Hawaiian’s
courtyard, Mr. Kawasaki ducked into
Azure, the Royal Hawaiian’s new upscale
restaurant, and managed to get us a table.
He ordered up another sampler, this one a
collection of Azure’s formidable entrees.
I’m a pretty simple guy when it comes to
food and wine. I’m usually content with a
light Italian red and pasta tossed in olive oil,
parmesan cheese, and a few strategic veggies. However, I don’t mind being spoiled
once in a while, and that’s exactly what
we got at Azure. This was one of the most
amazing dining experiences of my life.
The Honolulu fish auction
June 19, 2009
Seattle Gay News
5
Palm Springs: Rediscover your inner wild man
by Beau Burriola
In my travels to the 21 countries I have
set foot in, the places I remember most are
those which have provided some remarkable moment, some miraculous epiphany
that helps define the world and my place in
components and colorful characters: longsettled Cahuilla Indians building a settlement around an ancient spring rumored to
have healing powers, a sudden influx of culture and fun imported by Hollywood greats
who needed a place to be just far enough
away from the bustle of their work, explosive growth of a Gay community that grew
introduction to the consistently beautiful
weather.
With over 350 days of sunshine per year
(that’s right, 350) you can forget what you
think you know about weather – I packed
three sweaters and didn’t touch them.
The summer months are warmer (well
over 100 degrees), and during this time
on at this resort and you can’t help but get
caught up in it. At any time of the day, there
is a whole crowd of friendly guys to mingle
with, and you are sure to develop both instant crushes and lasting friendships.
beau burriola
Tortuga del Sol
If awards could be given out for comfort,
the biggest trophy would have to go to
Tortuga del Sol (www.tortugadelsol.com).
Proprietors Ric and Rob have worked hard
to create a very comfortable and social atmosphere where everyone feels right at
home. Of all the resorts, Tortuga manages
to provide the best porch area with loads of
mingling space, all in a resort that fits in every way into the scenery all around.
The Triangle Inn
Situated two doors down from Tortuga
del Sol, the Triangle Inn is capable of hosting a single room or a party of 10. With a
cozy pool and mingling area situated under the ubiquitous water-misters and large
rooms that boast some of the most complete
kitchens, you’re sure to enjoy a longer stay
and still feel right at home. Proprietors Michael and Stephen will make sure that you
are comfortable the moment you slip into
your bathing suit. (www.triangle-inn.com)
InnDulge owners Jean-Guy (l) and John (r) along with Beau
it. Usually, these life-altering realizations hit
me while I’m on some ancient castle wall or
on some untouched part of a million-yearold landscape surrounded by unfamiliar and
beautiful foreign cultures. Not this one. Not
this time.
This epiphany hit me while I was standing
stark naked in a sea of naked men, by the
pool of the Gay resort “InnDulge,” drinking a cocktail around four of my new closest friends. It was as through all those years
I spent becoming a “different” sort of Gay
guy, cynical about the Gay party boys dancing in their hot pants and being so naked,
giving us all a bad name, I forgot how much
fun it was just to be and have fun. There’s
something about Palm Springs that makes
your inner wild man come out and force you
to have a good time.
The history of Palm Springs, like any
good story, is a whole series of improbable
to become a majority of the population, the
eventual migration of countless retirees
from all walks of life, all attracted by the
perfect climate, beautiful adventurous scenery, and endless vacation resorts.
Today, Palm Springs (140 miles northeast
of San Diego) is much better known as an
amazing place to escape to for anyone seeking adventure in the sun. Aside from the obvious Gay draws, such as the White Party in
April, this Queerest of desert jewels boasts
rich cultural activities, stunning outdoor activities, excellent foodie fare, and a calendar chock full of festivals and celebrations
throughout the year.
Climate
When I got to Palm Springs, my first
shock was the open-roof airport. Being from
Seattle, I’m not accustomed to buildings not
having roofs, especially airports. It’s a great
courtesy of zoso
Zoso Cabaret
6
Seattle Gay News
June 19, 2009
The Hacienda
If it’s complete luxury you are after, your
top choice has to be Hacienda (www.thehacienda.com). The best illustration of this
place has got to be the in-room fireplace,
an open room-type number that bathes the
black marble and modern amenities of the
four-room apartment in a warm and comfortable glow. Add to it a pillow menu, a
four-direction shower spigot, and more
plush towels than you’ll ever use, and
you’re sure to feel like a king.
Century Palm Springs
Resort
If style is the top of your list, particularly
true mid-century modern style (complete
with alien-looking orange wall clock or lime
green footstool set against a background of
cascading 90-degree angles), then Century
Palm Springs is your destination. Right next
to the Hacienda and InnDulge, this coolercousin has the feel of a perfect martini
served on a shimmering silver tray. (www.
The Most Important
centruypalmsprings.com)
Decision: Where to Stay
(For a complete and exhaustive list of
The most important decision you will
make about your stay in Palm Springs will Palm Spring’s Gay resorts, check out www.
be about the place you stay. A good decision palmspringsGayinfo.com)
can surround you with fun people who will
First Things First:
really make your trip. A bad decision can
After dropping your bags,
leave you by yourself, or worse, stuck in a
get a swimsuit
crowd you just don’t belong in. The only
way to ensure you are going to be comfortRR Menswear
able with your stay is to do your research.
(33 N. Palm Canyon)
If you aren’t familiar with “Gay resorts,”
Since I haven’t had to own a bathing suit
let me give you the general run down. Most
of them are single-story facilities (usually in a decade, I needed to pick up a stylish, dewith bedroom/kitchen/bathroom) situated cently priced swimsuit and maybe a summer
around one or two pools, sometimes with shirt or two. To my luck, I found RR Mensgyms or saunas, each one with a style and wear a great little Gay-owned boutique shop
feel all its own. They are within reasonable with swimsuits and summer wear. Unlike
distance (about a mile) of the main bar drag many self-important boutique stores, owner
and tend to fall along a spectrum comprised Rick Erwin’s shop is extremely reasonably
of sexual and social energy. Beyond that, priced and includes a huge selection of sumthere are more than 30 Gay resorts in the mer wear from all over the world. Whether
area, so you’ve got a good chance of finding you are looking for a swimsuit, any-length
shorts, day-to-bar shirts, or footwear, Rick
the perfect one for you.
has got you covered. He also has an uncanny
InnDulge: My Personal Oasis eye for what you’re looking for, so be sure
My favorite Gay resort, and the place of to ask what might not quite be on the floor
my first traveler’s epiphany, is InnDulge yet, and you could get just the perfect pair of
Palm Springs (www.indulge.com). With shorts, like I did.
For all of your other shopping needs, you
the perfect balance of comfortable rooms
and a sizable pool/hot tub/social area, a spe- only have to park your car on Palm Canyon
cial social hour to get you acquainted with Drive and walk the 15 or so blocks up and
your fellow guests, and a wonderful mix down the main shopping drag for anything
of guys of all types, InnDulge manages the you are looking for. Sunglasses, shoes, hair,
perfect balance between flirty Gay fun and accessories, objects d’arte – anything you
down-to-earth people. On top of that, part- need is along this strip.
nered proprietors Jean-Guy and John, strive
What to do:
to develop a personal relationship with all
Shows/Cabaret
of their guests. (It was Jean-Guy who inIf high-energy shows are what you are
sisted I enter an underwear competition at
Hunter’s Video Bar, which I did, and won!) looking for, don’t miss this town’s two best
From breakfast time until well after 3 a.m. shows. Hotel Zoso’s Cabaret is a sort of
each night, there is always something going Queer Carol Burnett Show meets a talent
(considered the off-season) you’ll find excellent rates on lodgings and events with
the summertime promotion called “Summer Splash,” which offers spectacular deals
with area hotels, restaurants, bars, retailers,
and entertainment venues. This season starts
June 1 and goes right up until August 31.
(www.palmspringssummersplash.com)
Outdoors
Palm Springs isn’t just the Gay resort and
entertainment capital. It’s situated in some
of the most beautiful rugged wilderness
you’ve ever seen. The outdoor activities all
around make it an attractive destination for
adventurers.
If hiking is your thing, Joshua Tree National Park is a joy-jumping assortment of
desert and oasis winding around the fault
lands of Southern California. For a view of
the area, don’t miss the Palm Springs Aerial
Tramway (www.pstramway.com), a rotating funicular up to the highest point in the
desert, where you can either hike the winding trails or just sit and enjoy a drink while
you look out over the windmill-dotted desert landscape. If it’s golf you’re after, you’ll
notice as you land at the airport that you’re
really spoiled for choice.
If you just want a cup of coffee on a big
grassy lawn full of Gay people, go to Koffi
(www.kofficoffee.com) and get your favorite (iced, please) drink, find a shady bit of
grass, and let paradise do the rest. This place
is especially social on weekends, so don’t be
in a rush.
vember 7-8, you’ve got just enough time to
sew up the rips in your hot pants (or get a
new pair) before escaping the onset of winter and extending your summer a bit. Book
lodgings early and get ready to re-live summer. (www.pspride.com)
Food
While there are many notable food choices that stand out in Palm Springs, there are
a few in particular that Gay folks shouldn’t
miss.
Azul Tapas Lounge
Half restaurant, half place-to-be-seen Gay
patio paradise, this tapas lounge is built for
socializing. From booths arranged around
the outdoor bar to the little swinging cabana
tables situated along the sidewalk, there’s
comfortable seating and decent drink specials. On a hot day, just like anywhere in
the desert, the water-misters will keep you
cool, but the scene around you will be so
hot that it’ll be hard to leave and remember
there is somewhere else you wanted to see,
too. (www.azultapaslounge.com)
Wangs in the Desert
In addition to hosting Thursday night’s
hottest sunset pre-funk for Gay folks,
Wangs also has an excellent menu to choose
from. The “Sake Flight” is a sampler set of
three types of sake (Tozei, Pear, and Pearl)
and is a great way to begin before poking
your head into the menu and pulling up any
number of flavorful Asian dishes.
Jake’s Ready to Eat
If it’s lunch you’re after, walk a few
blocks north on the main drag and you’ll
find Jake’s Ready to Eat (look for the big
fork sign), a tiny, cozy, Gay-owned lunch
place with a great selection of everythinghere-is-good lunch and brunch. As with
any place in Palm Springs, the place to be
courtesy of azul
Tiger prawns at Azul
For architecture nuts, you’ll be right up to
your ears in mid-century modern here. Since
the first floods of celebrities began building
their castles here, the biggest names in architecture and those who have commissioned
them have dotted the desert with the most
dizzyingly magnificent villas you’ll ever
see. It’s not just the homes that will amaze
you, but the stories behind them. Let Robert
Imber take you around Palm Springs on a
Segway to see the most famous of these, and
teach you the importance of the connection
between carport, breezeway, window, and
door. (psmoderntours@aol.com)
Festivals and Events
Whether it’s the dancer’s White Party
(www.jeffreysanker.com), the cyclist’s Tour
de Palm Springs (www.tourdepalmsprings.
com), the architecture-lover’s Modernism
week (www.modernismweek.com), the
Elvis birthday celebration (www.elvishoneymoon.com), or any of the other endless
festivals and events you can plan your trip
around, there is no way you’re going to arrive at Palm Springs with nothing going on.
Not ready for Pride to end? Palm Springs
has you covered. With Pride not until No-
beau burriola
competition, and is packed to the front door
every week. These acts aren’t your standard
hodgepodge entertainment fare; great work
goes into each segment (just ask any of the
showgirls how long it takes to get into costume), and comes out on stage with every
act as engaging as the first. (www.hotelzoso.
com)
If you want even bigger entertainment,
check out the Fabulous Follies, the infamous
twice-daily showcase of talent which boasts
showgirls of a certain respectable life experience. With the biggest budget costumes
I’ve ever seen at a show, combined with
comedy, a colorful set, and even some dancing dogs, this show is like an early, big band
kind of Vegas act. (www.psfollies.com)
Joshua Tree National Park
day hosts an underwear competition which
you can enter for prize and tips (hey, I won
the grand prize and made $62 in tips), and
Thursday through Sunday the bar area, the
dance floor and the patio are hopping. From
there, make your way to Toucan’s Tiki
Lounge (2100 N. Palm Canyon Dr) for a bit
more of the same sort of crowd, or head to
The Barracks (67-625 E. Palm Canyon Dr.)
if Levis and camo is more your thing.
stay a week longer and planned my next
trip straight away. It’s the beauty of Palm
Springs that draws you and it’s the magic of
Palm Springs that keeps you coming back.
When Leaving
The life-altering epiphany that Palm
Springs gave me is about more than this
beautiful paradise with its amazing food,
resorts, outdoors, or nightlife. It’s about
more, even, than the friendliest people I’ve
met since I’ve been to Greece. It’s about
returning to that first feeling you got when
you came across your first Gay bar or your
first Gay city, that feeling of really belonging to something and knowing you were
about to embark on a huge adventure. Palm
Springs is a reminder of both where that
journey started and where you want to return to again and again and again.
As for me, I changed all my plans to
is the cozy patio, in the shade, under a mister, where you wave at (or run from) all the
friends you made last night.
Bongo Johnny’s
On the Saturday night we ate here, every
single table was filled up with Gay people.
I’ve heard of Gay-owned restaurants, but
this place was entirely wall-to-wall filled
with muscle boy couples, alternative couples, bear couples, rowdy tables of travel
writers (oh, wait, that was us), and all here
for the reasonably priced food and drink.
The Pacific Rim Salad is the best pre-nightout choice, but if you’ll be staying in, go
ahead and splurge on the lobster ravioli.
Nightlife
Any good desert paradise will have great
watering holes, but imagine what kind of
people you encounter out and about when
everyone is warm, tanned, and happy. That’s
what nightlife is like in Palm Springs, and
you can’t help but make friends. While the
list of places to go is far longer than we can
put here, here is a list of the top three.
Start at Hunter’s Video Bar (302 E. Arenas) for your first bit of socializing. Wednes-
June 19, 2009
Seattle Gay News
7
Taos, New Mexico
by Andrew Collins
Remote and resplendent Taos, a diminutive town of about 6,500 nestled beneath
New Mexico’s highest peaks, has long been
a haven for artists, bohemians and free spirits. The percentage of Gays and Lesbians in
the population is likely far less than Santa
Fe or Albuquerque, but Taos nevertheless
pulls in a considerable number of GLBT
visitors. It’s a perfect long weekend destination, just 90 minutes from Santa Fe and
a little over four hours from Denver. The
town abounds with exceptional art galler-
and barbecue eggplant, and crispy Onaga
snapper with a Russian caviar beurre blanc
sauce.
Another great pick right in the heart of
Taos is the historic – and allegedly haunted
– Taos Inn.
Some of the retro-cool rooms in this atmospheric hotel open onto a small courtyard,
while others are inside the 1930s-era main
building. Even if you don’t stay here, enjoy
margaritas in the classy Adobe Bar, or on the
adjacent patio – it’s the top perch for people-watching in Taos. Hotel La Fonda is another excellent, upscale option – it’s right on
Taos Plaza and is home to the phenomenal
Ansel Adams, D.H. Lawrence, Georgia
O’Keeffe and Aldous Huxley. You can tour
dozens of art galleries in the center of town,
which also contains quite a few funky specialty shops, selling everything from Day of
the Dead figurines to New Age crystals.
Downtown also has four superb art museums of the caliber you’d expect of a much
larger city. Start with a tour of the Taos Art
Museum, a striking adobe house that was
once the home of famed Russian portraitist Nicholai Fechin. Here you get to explore
Fechin’s life and see his portraits, and you
also get a good sense of Taos’ early master
painters and the history of this fabled art
laszlo-photo / flickr
The Rio Grande Gorge, taken from the Rio Grande Bridge
ies, notable restaurants, Gay-friendly B&Bs
and an almost endless supply of cultural and
outdoors diversion.
In choosing a place to stay, go with either
of two strategies: If you’re here more for relaxation and romance and to soak up the 50mile views, opt for one of the Gay-friendly
inns 10 miles north of town in the spectacularly scenic village of Arroyo Seco, which
also has a couple of superb restaurants. If
you’re more the type to explore art galleries
and museums and sample as many restaurants as possible, pick one of the excellent
properties right in the heart of Taos’ small
downtown.
WIDE ARRAY
OF GAY-FRIENDLY HOTELS
Among downtown properties, the swanky
El Monte Sagrado ranks among the most
stunning small resorts in New Mexico. This
sumptuous compound – built with revolutionary environmental technology that
makes it one of the “greenest” hotels anywhere – has individually decorated rooms,
suites and casitas in all sizes, with international themes and priceless art and furniture;
most have fireplaces and some have private
decks with hot tubs. The hotel’s Living Spa
offers a wide range of fabulous treatments,
and El Monte’s elegant De la Tierra restaurant serves superb, globally influenced
cuisine, such Moroccan lamb with harissa
Joseph’s Table restaurant, where you might
sample such creative fare as soy-cured duck
breast with ginger sauce and a sweet-potato
tamale. Rooms in this rambling adobe inn
come in a good range of configurations and
prices and have attractive Southwestern
furnishings – some have kiva-style gas fireplaces and separate sitting rooms.
An enchanting, reasonably priced option
that’s just a short drive south of downtown,
the Gay-friendly American Artists Gallery
House consists of 10 charmingly furnished
rooms and suites, all with wood-burning
fireplaces and knockout views of the Sangre
de Cristos. Each unit has a private entrance,
but guests can also mingle over a hearty full
breakfast each morning in the sunny dining
room.
Up in Arroyo Seco, the luxurious, lightfilled Adobe and Stars B&B offers stunning
360-degree vistas of the surrounding countryside. This contemporary house is surrounded by decks and patios and filled with
big windows, high ceilings and elegant furniture; some guest rooms have Jacuzzis and
fireplaces. Nearby, Salsa del Salto is an inviting inn with spacious rooms, some in the
main building and others in a more private
wing. The best rooms have jetted whirlpool
tubs and fireplaces, but all are handsomely
furnished.
With an especially peaceful and hiddenaway location on a mesa a few miles west
of Arroyo Seco, the moderately priced Little
Tree B&B affords panoramic views of the
Sangre de Cristo mountains and Rio Grande
Valley. The four simple but refined guest
rooms in this authentic adobe house open
onto a flowery garden usually buzzing with
hummingbirds.
THE VIBRANT ART OF TAOS
Taos is a vibrant mix of the region’s Indian, Spanish and frontier legacies, further
influenced by the legions of artists, writers
and creative spirits who have settled – or at
the very least passed through – among them
8
Seattle Gay News
June 19, 2009
colony.
Two other excellent art museums – the
Blumenschein Home and Museum and the
Harwood Museum – are just a few blocks
away. Ernest Blumenschein was one of
the founders of the Taos art colony, and his
stunningly restored 1797 hacienda contains
original furnishings, vintage photos and
paintings by him and his many prominent
colleagues. A few doors down, the prodigious and prestigious Harwood Museum
contains a mix of items, from Spanish Colonial religious iconography to stark and
provocative modern works by such 20thcentury notables as Marsden Hartley (who
was openly Gay), John Marin and Agnes
Martin.
It’s the Millicent Rogers Museum, however, that’s often the top highlight of artsminded visitors. This rambling adobe house
overflows with thousands of decorative
arts and crafts, mostly of local Hispanic
and Native American origin. You can find
everything here from Navajo blankets to
turquoise jewelry to fine pottery. It’s an excellent place to gain an overview of New
Mexico’s rich arts legacy, which dates back
many centuries. If you have time, leave the
museum by continuing north on U.S. 64,
turning left (still on U.S. 64) at the traffic
signal, and following the road about 7 miles
west to the vertigo-inducing Rio Grande
Gorge Bridge, which rises some 650-feet
above the wild river below – it’s a terrific
photo op.
OUTDOOR ADVENTURE
If museum-hopping isn’t your thing, consider the town’s wealth of outdoors activities. A favorite draw is white water rafting
through Taos Box, a dramatic 17-mile span
of the Rio Grande River that cuts through
a deep gorge of steep, black-basalt cliffs.
Mountain-biking and fly-fishing are similarly popular diversions, and Taos Country
Club (which is open to the public) offers 18
holes of golf out along a magnificent high
mesa south of downtown. Surrounding Taos
is Carson National Forest, much of which
sprawls across the 13,000-foot Sangre de
Cristo mountains; this is prime hiking territory. Finally, in winter, Taos Ski Valley –
about 20 miles northeast of downtown – is
a huge attraction. It’s consistently ranked by
top ski magazines as one of the most difficult and exciting facilities in the country.
OUTSTANDING RESTAURANTS
Taos may be small and informal, but it
enjoys an excellent reputation for outstanding – and highly sophisticated – restaurants.
Two of the musts for foodies are Joseph’s
Table and De la Tierra, mentioned above.
Another top pick, up in Arroyo Seco, is Sabroso Restaurant and Bar, which occupies a
romantic hacienda-style building and serves
delicious Mediterranean-inspired cuisine.
It’s known for its stellar wine list (lots of
hard-to-find Spanish and Italian varietals),
and there’s live music in the bar many evenings. Taos has no Gay bars per se, but the
bar at Sabroso (as well as the one at the Taos
Inn) both have something of a GLBT following.
On Taos’ south side, the Trading Post
Cafe has made a name for itself serving
hearty contemporary American and Italian
fare; the walls here are hung with local art.
A favorite with locals, Byzantium occupies
a discreet courtyard a short walk south of
the Plaza and serves up unusual, globally inspired creations, such as lobster potpie with
artichoke hearts and sweet corn, simmered
in a brandy bisque. The Apple Tree, in a
19th-century Territorial-style house near the
Plaza, offers an eclectic mix of Southwestern and American dishes, from smoked trout
to veggie green curry. It’s especially popular
for Sunday brunch.
For lighter, healthful fare, head to the
Dragonfly Cafe & Bakery, a Europeaninspired eatery with a lovely courtyard and
a convenient location near shopping and
galleries. A popular venue for breakfast or
lunch, the Dragonfly serves such memorable fare as fennel pancakes with orange
syrup, and udon noodle bowls with fresh
shrimp. If you’re passing through Arroyo
Seco, be sure to visit Taos Cow, a lively cafe
serving tasty deli sandwiches and iconic
house-made ice cream (pinon-caramel is a
favorite flavor). It’s the perfect spot to soak
up local flavors, people-watch, and enjoy
the magnificent views of the high desert and
soaring peaks that surround Taos.
THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK
Adobe and Stars B&B (575-776-2776
or 800-211-7076, www.taosadobe.com).
American Artists Gallery House (800-5322041, www.taosbedandbreakfast.com). The
Apple Tree (575-758-1900). Byzantium
(575-751-0805). Dragonfly Cafe & Bakery (575-737-5859, www.dragonflytaos.
com). El Monte Sagrado and De la Tierra
(800-826-TAOS, www.elmontesagrado.
com). Hotel La Fonda and Joseph’s Table
(575-758-2211 for hotel, 575-751-4512
for restaurant, www.lafondataos.com and
www.josephstable.com). Little Tree B&B
(575-776-8467 or 800-334-8467, www.
littletreebandb.com). Momentitos de la
Vida (575-776-3333). Sabroso Restaurant
and Bar (575-776-3333, www.sabrosotaos.
com). Salsa del Salto (575-776-2422, www.
bandbtaos.com). Taos Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau (575-758-3873
or 800-732-8267, www.taoschamber.com).
Taos Cow (575-776-5640, www.taoscow.
com). Taos Inn (575-758-2233 or 800-8267466, www.taosinn.com). Trading Post
Cafe (575-758-5089, www.tradingpostcafe.
com).
Andrew Collins covers Gay travel for the
New York Times-owned website About.com
and is the author of Fodor’s Gay Guide to
the USA. He can be reached care of this
publication or at OutofTown@qsyndicate.
com.
June 19, 2009
Seattle Gay News
9
Seeing is believing in Maui's “Upcountry”
emuse tess heder / flickr
Sunset over Haleakala highway in Maui's Upcountry
When one first thinks about vacationing
in Maui, it’s natural to envision the sand
and surf, cocktails at the resort pool, luaus
and oceanside dinners. To my surprise, I
discovered a part of the island that doesn’t
get the mention it deserves. High above the
mountains, right in the center of this tropical
paradise, is a host of activities that can easily take up a day or more to fully enjoy, creating a unique island experience. The area,
known as the Upcountry, consists of forests, farms, vineyards, and winding country
roads. It appears to be minutes away from
beach destinations on a map, but in reality
it can take an hour just to get there by car
on a single lane highway. For future trips to
Maui, go to www.visitmaui.com for ideas
and information to begin your adventure to
this lush island, which is five hours from Seattle by air.
emuse tess heder / flickr
by Richard Kennedy
SGN A&E Writer
of the most mouthwatering menus. General
Store (www.bevgannonrestaurants.com) is
entering its 20th year and is consistently rated as one of Maui’s best restaurants. Nestled
among pineapple fields, this place is a destination all its own for tourists and a favorite
dining experience for many locals. Gannon
has made some of her creations – like the
crab pizza, sashimi Napoleon and pineapple upside-down cake – reason enough to
make the journey to Upcountry Maui. After
devouring our lunch, a short drive brought
us to the Kula Marketplace (www.kulamarketplace.com) for a stroll around the Kula
Lodge, where stores offered specialty gourmet food and fine local art before our next
venture.
With the top down, we again went high
into the mountains, this time on the other
side as we wound through vacation homes
and local residences. The air was filled with
the scent of lavender and we hardly needed
a map to know we were close to the Ali’I
Kula Lavender Farm (www.aliikulalavender.com). The gardens, nestled on the slopes
of the Haleakala Crater, offer even more
breathtaking views from its 10.5-acre estate.
Enjoy tea and scones at any one of the Zeninspired sitting areas or gazebos – I never
knew I could forget about the hectic life
back home without even going to the beach!
The Gallery Gift Shop has everything from
lavender chocolates to organic skin creams
EXPLORING THE UPCOUNTRY
You might think you’ve died and gone to
heaven when you visit the seaside cliffs on
the north side of Maui, but nothing can prepare you for the breathtaking views experienced during a horseback ride at the Piiholo
Ranch (www.piiholo.com). This farmland,
owned by six generations of a local fam-
Kula Lodge
ily, sprawls through open range and towering eucalyptus forests, all the way up to a
2,000-foot elevation viewpoint. Our guided
horseback ride took us to viewpoints where
I felt as though I were at the center of the
world, because I could see the entire island
below me and the pristine Pacific Ocean in
every direction I looked. It’s certainly not
the island’s most inexpensive horseback adventure, but I guarantee it's well worth your
money as nowhere else can you experience
this on a working cattle ranch. For the more
adventurous traveler, there is the incredible Piiholo Zipline adventure which begins
with a stroll across a 317-foot long suspended bridge which leads to the ziplines where
you soar more than three miles through the
immense eucalyptus forests, native koa and
ohia trees, and many indigenous plants,
while catching grand coastal and canyon
views all along the ride.
Needless to say, my partner and I were
starving after we parted ways with our fabulous guide at the ranch, and we headed down
to the famous Hali’imaile General Store,
owned by celebrated Maui chef Bev Gannon. Not knowing what to expect, we found
the most charming casual restaurant with a
faux storefront, charming waitstaff and one
10
Seattle Gay News
June 19, 2009
– I admit, I’m hooked on the lavender shaving lotion now – and you can join any of the
daily walking tours offered.
Just beyond, where the road almost comes
to an end as the altitude slopes back down,
you’ll come across the historical Tedeschi
Vineyards (www.mauiwines.com), located
on a 20,000-acre Ulapalaku Ranch. Tiny
rural communities, rolling green pastureland, majestic mountain vistas, sublime
seascapes, you will see it all on the road to
Tedeschi Vineyards. One of Hawaii’s most
historic buildings, The King’s Cottage, built
in 1874 for the last reigning monarchs, was
visited by the last king and queen for its
beauty, peacefulness and tranquility. You
are sure to experience this yourself with
one of the daily complimentary tours. And,
as expected, the tour ends at The Kalakaua
Cottage Tasting Room for an offering of
tantalizing local wines.
It’s difficult to see your Upcountry journey come to an end, until you remember that
a romantic evening walk along the beach
awaits you back at the waterfront. It was
the perfect end to an unexpectedly exciting
day as we reminisced at what seemed like a
world away from our resort and moonlight
stroll.
Pride Parade Volunteers Needed
Join the Impact and SOaP are joining forces to run a food drive during the
Seattle Pride Parade on June 28, 2009 at 11:00 AM. We need volunteers
to monitor the food collection bins throughout the parade route. You will
still be able to watch the parade and celebrate with friends.
Please contact Joe at jointheimpactWA@gmail.com to sign up.
PRIDE
LAUNCH
2009
A QUEER YOUTH DANCE
PARTY
AGES 22 AND UNDER
THURSDAY
JUNE 25
8PM
THE SOLE
REPAIR SHOP
1001 E PIKE
(ACROSS FROM NEUMOS)
FREE:
ADMISSION. DANCING.
FOOD. HIV TESTING.
REALLY.
PRESENTED BY
Prepare to play.
June 19, 2009
Seattle Gay News
11
Explore Gay Amsterdam
amsfrank / flickr
The fashionable Prik bar in the heart of Spuistraat's Gay red-light district
by Andrew Collins
Few European cities have more to offer
Lesbian and Gay travelers than the remarkably forward-thinking and tolerant city of
Amsterdam. Even better, a combination
of consistently reasonable airfares, direct
flights from myriad North American cit-
ies, and palatable prices for most goods and
services makes this compact, scenic city
of about 750,000 residents one of the great
world capitals for GLBT visitors.
It’s extremely easy to explore Amsterdam
on foot, as the majority of the city’s key attractions and most diverting neighborhoods
lie in the city center, within relatively short
walking distance of most hotels. You can
also travel by public tram, or grab a taxi –
fares for the latter run about 9 to 12 Euros
for most trips within the City Center.
A good strategy for taking in the city is to
begin at the central Dam Square and work
your way around the city center, passing
through some of the other main squares,
such as the Leidseplein and Rembrandtplein. Be sure to plan visits to the city’s most
esteemed repositories of art, the Van Gogh
Museum and the Rijksmuseum. Although
the enormous main section of the latter has
been closed for some time for renovations, a
significant chunk of the collection – including some of the most important works – are
on exhibit in the museum’s Philips wing.
SOBERING HISTORY
No visit to Amsterdam is complete without a tour of the poignant Anne Frank
House, which is close to the Joordan district,
a warren of narrow lanes lined with cozy cafes and engaging boutiques. Close by the
Anne Frank House is the Homomonument,
a memorial consisting of three pink granite
triangles remembering the lives of Lesbians
and Gays persecuted throughout history, and
especially during World War II. It overlooks
Keizersgracht Canal. A few feet away, the
Pink Point kiosk is a small but well-stocked
GLBT gift and bookshop, and also an excellent place to grab free brochures on nightlife
and obtain advice on what to see and do.
On the east side of city center the Rembrandt House offers one of the more fascinating museum experiences in Amsterdam.
Nearby, a branch of Russia’s famed Hermitage museum has just opened inside a late17th-century building overlooking the Amstel River.
FOOD AND SHOPPING
If you’re a fan of shopping, be sure to walk
along Kalverstraat to find most of the leading department stores, and hit Leidsestraat
and P.C. Hooftstraat to find dozens of slick
boutiques and fashion shops showing the
styles of some of Europe’s leading designers. Other areas that have considerable sway
among shoppers include the narrow lanes of
the Joordan, bustling Utrechtsestraat, and
the blocks around Waterlooplein, near the
Rembrandt House. For one-stop shopping,
don’t miss the trendy De Bijenkorf department store, which carries a whole slew of
top labels.
Amsterdam’s restaurant scene has improved markedly in recent years, with quite
a few places serving healthier and lighter
food than you’d have typically found in the
12
Seattle Gay News
June 19, 2009
Netherlands a decade ago. In the Gay-popular Reguliersdwaarstraat district, Het Tuynhuis is one of the most refined restaurants in
the city – the elegant spot serves first-rate
modern Mediterranean-French food, such as
rack of lamb with sausages, lentils, and fresh
spring vegetables.
The Gay-trendy Getto, which is along the
lovably seedy and leather-oriented Warmoesstraat, is an inviting spot that’s known
as much among see-and-be-seen types for
sipping cocktails as for tasty food, from
camp-themed burgers (try the Priscilla, with
mozzarella, tomato, basil, and pesto-mayo)
to more elaborate daily specials featuring
seafood and wild game. Frenzi is a lively
corner trattoria at the hip and charming corner of Staalstraat and Zwanenburgwal. The
restaurant is close to Waterlooplein and the
cluster of Gay bars along the opposite shore
of the Amstel River. There’s an excellent
list of Italian wines, and here you can dine
on superb rustic fare, including pastas and
grills. If you’re with a friend, order the ginormous antipasti platter.
Just around the corner from Homomonument, the restaurant Werck is another stellar
option, set in a charming coach house and
serving globally inspired haute cuisine, such
as tuna sashimi with ginger-soy glaze, and
smoked duck salad with mango-raspberry
vinaigrette. You’ll also find several excellent Indonesian, Thai, and other International restaurants throughout the city center. Indonesian food is a major specialty in
the Netherlands, and one of the best – and
most stylish – places to sample it is Selecta,
a smartly furnished eatery just around the
corner from the Reguliersdwaarstraat Gaynightlife strip.
There are plenty of places throughout the
city to grab a light lunch, among them Spanjer & van Twist, near the Homomonument,
and Downtown, a quite Gay-popular spot
along bustling Reguliersdwaarstraat. On
Utrechtsestraat, fans of java should duck into
the Koffee Salon, a comfy place with hardwood floors and plenty of seating (plus free
wifi). You can relax here with friends while
sipping some of the best coffee in the city,
plus outstanding chocolates and snacks.
TRENDY BARS AND CLUBS
Amsterdam’s trendiest Gay bars and clubs
are set along Reguliersdwarsstraat. These include such hip hangouts bars as April, Soho,
and ARC (which is also a restaurant serving
very good contemporary Continental food),
and the pulsing disco, Exit. In the heart of
Spuistraat’s Gay red-light district, Prik is
a fashionable and festive spot that draws
a mixed-gender bunch – in good weather,
you’ll see the crowd spill out onto the street,
especially during the early evening hours.
Fans of leather bars should stroll along
Warmoesstraat, just north of Dam Square,
and check out the Argos and the super-cruisy
late-night favorite, the Cockring. Among favorite locals hangouts, try Amstel Taveerne
and Le Montmartre. Both of these places
draw a friendly, all-ages, mixed-gender
crowd and have a convivial, almost campy
vibe. Another laid-back but somewhat more
cruisy option is De Spijker, which is conveniently close to the city’s famous Gay bathhouse, Thermos.
Alas, the Lesbian nightlife scene in Amsterdam leaves something to be desired, although women are quite welcome – if in the
minority – at virtually all of the bars mentioned above, except for the leather haunts
along Warmoesstraat. Two mixed Gay/Lesbian bars of note are the long-running Saarein, in the Jordaan, and the art deco-style
Vive-La-Vie, near the camp bars by the Amstel River.
STUNNING HOTELS
Amsterdam’s lodging landscape has plenty of variety, including simple and cheap
Gay-oriented guest houses, luxe grande
dames, and a growing crop of trendy boutique hotels with avant-garde design themes.
Among Gay-owned places, the Hotel Freeland is an economical, well-situated prop-
The Homomonument, a memorial for Gays and Lesbians who have been persecuted throughout history
erty (close to the Joordan and the main Gaynightlife areas) with 15 clean and comfortable rooms. Hosts Pascale and Rick speak a
few languages between them and are quite
knowledgeable about the city, and the hotel welcomes a mix of Gays, Lesbians, and
open-minded heteros. Amsterdam is a popular destination for leather aficionados, who
should consider staying at the Black Tulip, a
luxury inn catering to guys who seek rooms
with both cushy amenities (VCRs and minibars) and kinky accoutrements (whipping
benches, bondage slings).
One of the more cosmopolitan hostelries
in the city, the Dylan Amsterdam occupies a
stunning 17th-century building on the prestigious Keizergracht, one of the most picturesque of the city’s 165 canals. The 41 rooms
and suites, however, feel distinctly modern,
with bold color schemes and sleek furnishings. The hotel’s Dylan Restaurant serves
topnotch East-meets-West cuisine. If you’re
seeking a sumptuous old-world experience,
check into the vaunted Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky, a stately Belle Epoque property
overlooking the central Dam Square.
A 10-minute tram ride outside the city
center, the hip Lloyd Hotel opened in 2005
catering to an artsy crowd and offering
quirky, stylish rooms for every budget, from
simple shared-bath units for 90 euros to lavish loft suites with hot tubs for upwards of
450 euros. This former immigrant-processing center (circa 1920) is in the supercool
Oostelijk Havengebied (Eastern Harbor)
neighborhood, which is fast becoming famous for its striking contemporary architecture and swish design shops, such as Pol’s
Potten.
For sheer luxury, it’s hard to beat the Hotel Okura, run by an upscale Japanese chain
that’s known for outstanding service. The
hotel, which occupies one of the tallest
buildings in the city, recently completed a
quite grand refurbishment of its rooms and
bathrooms – the tubs and showers now have
spectacular views through tall windows
(ask for a room on a high floor facing the
city center). The hotel, which is 15-minute
walk from the Reguliersdwaarstraat bar
area, is famed for its dining – it’s home to
the only Michelin two-star restaurant in the
country, Ciel Bleu, as well as the renowned
traditional Japanese restaurant, Yamazato,
which has a single Michelin star.
THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK
Amstel Taveerne (20-623-4254, www.
amsteltaveerne.nl). April (20-625-9572,
www.cafeapril.eu). ARC (20-689-7070,
www.bararc.com). Argos (20-622-6595,
www.argosbar.com). Black Tulip (20427-0933, www.blacktulip.nl). Cockring
(20-623-9604, www.clubcockring.com).
Downtown (www.coffeeshopdowntown.
nl, 20-622-9958). Dylan Amsterdam (20530-2010, www.dylanamsterdam.com).
Exit (20-625-8788, www.clubexit.eu).
Frenzi (20-423-5112, www.frenzi.nl).
Getto (20-421-5151, www.getto.nl). Grand
Hotel Krasnapolsky (20-554-9111, www.
nh-hotels.com). Het Tuynhuis (20-6276603, www.tuynhuys.nl). Hotel Freeland
(20-622-7511, www.hotelfreeland.com).
Hotel Okura (20-678-7111, www.okura.nl).
Koffee Salon (20-330-4314). Lloyd Hotel
(20-561-3636, www.lloydhotel.com). Le
Montmartre (20-620-7622, www.cafemontmartre.nl). Netherlands Board of Tourism
& Conventions (www.holland.com/us).
Prik (20-427-9185, www.prikamsterdam.
nl). Saarein (20-623-4901, www.saarein.
nl). Selecta (20- 624-8894, www.restaurantselecta.nl). Soho (20-330-4400, www.
pubsoho.eu). Spanjer & van Twist (20-6390109). De Spijker (20-620-5919, www.
spijkerbar.nl). Vive-La-Vie (20-624-0114,
www.vivelavie.net). Werck (20-627-4079,
www.werck.nl).
and is the author of Fodor’s Gay Guide to
the USA. He can be reached care of this
publication or at OutofTown@qsyndicate.
com.
October in Vegas
October in Vegas
Price is Right Show
October 5-9
Grand Canyon Tour
th ,
2009
Flight * Transportation * Hotel * Show * Meal
Flight:
Alaska Airlines
Show:
Price is Right Show
Hotel:
Luxor
Transportation:
Local Bus Co.
Tour:
Grand Canyon
Meal:
Dinner at Paris (TBA)
Rates:
Pacific NW Travel Club
11020 SE Kent-Kangley RD
Suite BB204
(on the 8
th )
Single Person
$750.00
Double PP
$600.00
Warning: Once Booked and Paid
Kent, WA 98030
1-877-272-0508 Toll Free
www.Pacificnwtravelclub.com
NO REFUNDS
September 10th, 2009 is the closing date
June 19, 2009
Seattle Gay News
13
Great Gay New York neighborhoods
by Andrew Collins
This year marks the 40th anniversary of
the Stonewall Riots, which galvanized New
York City’s GLBT community and helped
ultimately to kick-start the modern Gay
rights movement. To commemorate this occasion, the city has a particularly impressive
Gay Pride celebration planned for the end of
the month (events take place from June 20
through June 28). It’s a terrific time to visit
one of the world’s leading Gay destinations,
although any time of year, there’s plenty to
see in this exciting city.
With this in mind, here’s a look at some
of the more noteworthy places to eat, play
and stay in three of Manhattan’s most Gay-
popular neighborhoods, Chelsea, the East
Village and Hell’s Kitchen. If you’ve never
been to New York, these are three must-see
parts of the city. And if you have been, you
may be surprised by some of the cool new
hangouts and hotels that have opened in
these neighborhoods.
mark mikoy / flickr
New York's increasingly fashionable Hell's Kitchen neighborhood
14
Seattle Gay News
June 19, 2009
Chelsea
The neighborhood’s Gay area is situated
primarily along 8th and 7th avenues, between West 14th and 23rd streets, and on the
blocks connecting these two thoroughfares.
Here you’ll find dozens of bars, restaurants
and shops, plus a few accommodations of
note.
For dining, neighborhood stalwarts include Mare, which presents creative, superfresh seafood with contemporary American
and French preparations. The chatter-filled,
high-ceilinged space looks like a bit like a
Marseille fish market. Yet another slick
corner eatery with French doors, Niso’s
describes its cuisine as Mediterranean but
definitely emphasizes – and excels – in
Greek-style seafood. The grilled octopus
appetizer and broiled snapper entrees score
high marks.
Romantic East of Eighth has a cute patio, wonderful cabaret shows and delicious
French food at reasonable prices. On 7th Avenue you’ll find great noshing at Cafeteria,
a trendy diner-style spot that’s open 24/7;
Restivo, a romantic spot serving first-rate
Italian fare and Regional Thai Taste, a reliably good Thai restaurant.
Chelsea sets the pace for New York’s boybar scene. Longtime favorites include G
Lounge, Splash Bar and Barracuda. If you’re
a fan of Gay sports bars, definitely stop by
Gym for a drink. Next door, the relatively
new Ate Ave is a friendly lounge and restaurant that’s fast developing a loyal following
among Chelsea boys (it’s also a good bet for
brunch the morning after bar-hopping into
the wee hours). Fans of leather should venture to the neighborhood’s western reaches
and check out the venerable Eagle, which is
also a fun spot to shoot pool.
This neighborhood with few hotels received a nice boost in 2009 with the opening of the GEM Chelsea, a mid-priced, sleek
property that has a wonderful location on
8th Avenue, steps from bars and restaurants.
Rooms are cozy but well-equipped, and the
staff couldn’t be friendlier. Just down the
street, the charming Colonial House Inn has
long been a reliable place to stay in Chelsea.
The East Village
Although intensely gentrified over the past
decade, the “EV” acts as the city’s hub of alternative dress, nightlife, and entertainment.
Cheap eateries, iconoclast-meets-slacker
bars and lounges and garage-sale-inspired
shops keep a steady stream of tourists and
locals slinking about at all hours of the
night. One of the best streets for strolling
is St. Marks Place, which is jammed with
divey bars, groovy shops and cheap restaurants. It’s not a particularly Gay part of the
neighborhood, but it is fun for a browse.
Great shopping and people-watching can
be had along the neighborhood’s avenues,
which take on an increasingly hip ambience
the farther east you go.
Ethnic eateries have always thrived in this
part of town. Fans of Basque cooking adore
Euzkadi, a homey, old-world space with
hearty, rustic food. Just a block south of the
EV, Sorella serves exceptionally tasty Piedmont-inspired Italian food (it’s especially
fun for brunch). You’ll often see folks lining
up outside the door at Artichoke Basille’s
Pizza, a simple-looking storefront pizzeria that’s become famous for its delectable
thin-crust pies. One place that shouldn’t be
missed in this neighborhood is Veselka, a
beloved Ukranian diner that doles out generous (and amazingly tasty) portions of homestyle fare, from cheese blintzes to feathery
pierogi dumplings.
Gay bars in the East Village still draw
heavily, as they always have, from the city’s
dressed-in-black ranks. Just off Avenue
A, the Phoenix is a crowded no-frills chat
bar that swells nightly with students, arty
types and even a few Chelsea boys. There
are erotic shows, drag events and hormonecharged crowd at the sleazy-chic Cock.
Actor and East Village resident Alan Cumming is a regular at Eastern Bloc. One other
Gay hangout that’s long been popular in the
neighborhood is the Boiler Room, which
has a strong following with students from
nearby NYU.
Although the East Village is lacking in
hotels, there are a couple of excellent lodging choices right on the edge of the neighborhood, including the quirky yet stylish
Cooper Square Hotel. And in the ultra-chic
Lower East Side, the Thompson LES is garnering raves for its stunning, high-ceilinged
rooms and fabulous pool – plus an outstanding restaurant, Shang.
Boiler Room (www.boilerroomnyc.com,
212-254-7536). Cafeteria (212-414-1717,
www.cafeteriagroup.com). Cock (no phone,
www.thecockbar.com). Colonial House
Inn (800-689-3779, www.colonialhouseinn.com). Cooper Square Hotel (212475-5700, www.thecoopersquarehotel.
com). Delta Grill (212-956-0934, www.
thedeltagrill.com). Eastern Bloc (no phone,
www.easternblocnyc.com). East of Eighth
(212-352-0075, www.eastofeighth.com).
restivorestaurant.com
Restivo Ristorante, a romantic street cafe in Chelsea serving first-rate Italian fare
Hell’s Kitchen
It’s almost unheard of to pass through New
York City without taking in a Broadway
show and strolling around Times Square.
In the past decade, plenty of attention has
been given to the neighborhood to the west,
Hell’s Kitchen, a once tough-as-nails Irish
working-class enclave that’s become increasingly fashionable. Many Lesbians and
Gays have moved here in recent years, and
the Gay-trendy dining and entertainment
scene has lately spread like kudzu vine.
It can be a challenge scoring a table at
celeb-chef Mario Batali’s fabulous space,
Esca, but do persevere – you’ll be rewarded
with exceptional yet reasonably priced seafood like whole-roasted sea bass with lemon and olive oil. A sophisticated pan-Latin
American eatery named for the neighborhood it anchors, Hell’s Kitchen is the place
to sample such stellar victuals as duck-confit empanadas, or pan-seared halibut with
sweet-plantain puree and salsa verde.
Dig into exceptionally tasty Moroccan
fare at Tagine, a riotously colorful eatery
with its own fleet of exotic belly dancers.
Inexpensive pan-Asian and American cooking – including Thai, Vietnamese, and Chinese specialties – is served at Vynl, a funky
retro diner with a friendly staff. And for you
homesick southern girls, fill up on amazingly authentic Cajun and Creole fare at the
Delta Grill, a brassy and seductive neighborhood canteen that pays homage to downhome faves like fried chicken with candied
yams.
Sassy and sexy lounges are all the rage
in Hell’s Kitchen. Notables include Posh,
which could just as easily be called “Lush”
for its fab drink specials; Barrage, a favorite happy hour hideout for Gay scenesters
and media upstarts; and Therapy, a snazzy,
two-level bar known for great music, potent
drinks, and a cheeky unisex bathroom.
You’ll find dozens and dozens of worthy
hotels near Hell’s Kitchen around Times
Square and the Theater District. But if you
want to be away from the touristy fray and
right in the heart of the neighborhood, check
out the Skyline Hotel, an affordable property on 10th Avenue, steps from several popular restaurants in the neighborhood. A more
intimate experience can be enjoyed at Hotel
414, a dapper boutique hotel that’s set inside
a pair of restored, historic townhouses. You
can relax over in the leafy courtyard garden
and easily forget you’re in one of the largest, Gayest cities in the world.
The Little Black Book
Artichoke Basille’s Pizza (212-228-2004,
www.artichokepizza.com). Ate Ave (646763-8355, www.ateave.com). Barracuda
(212-645-8613). Barrage (212-586-9390).
Eagle (646-473-1866, www.eaglenyc.
com). Esca (212-564-7272, www.escanyc.com). Euzkadi (212-989-9788, www.
euzkadirestaurant.com). GEM Chelsea
(212-675-1911, www.ascendcollection.
com/hotel-new_york-new_york-NY426).
G Lounge (212-929-1085, www.glounge.
com). Gym (212-337-2439, www.gymsportsbar.com). Hell’s Kitchen (212-9771588, www.hellskitchen-nyc.com). Hotel
414 (212-399-0006, www.414hotel.com).
Mare (212-675-7522, www.chelseadining.
com/mare/). Niso’s (646-336-8121, www.
nisos-ny.com). NYC and Company (aka
the New York Convention and Visitors Bureau) (212-484-1200, www.nycgo.com).
Phoenix (212-477-9979). Posh (212-9572222, www.poshbarnyc.com). Regional
Thai Taste (212-807-9872). Restivo (212366-4133). Skyline Hotel (212-582-4604,
www.skylinehotelnyc.com). Sorella (212274-9595, www.sorellanyc.com). Splash
Bar (www.splashbar.com, 212-691-0073).
Tagine (212-564-7292, www.taginedining.
com). Therapy (212-397-1700, www.therapy-nyc.com). Thompson LES (212-4608888, www.thompsonles.com). Veselka
(212-228-9682, www.veselka.com). Vynl
(212-974-2003, www.vynl-nyc.com).
A Short Trip To A Real
Northwest Adventure!
Wilderness Hiking
Beach Combing
Fishing
Surfing
Cozy Cabins, Inns
and RV Sites
On the 112
Scenic Byway
sekiu.com or
clallambay.com
and is the author of Fodor’s Gay Guide to the
USA. He can be reached care of this publication or at OutofTown@qsyndicate.com.
Pride Parade
Volunteers Needed
Join the Impact and SOaP are joining forces to run
a food drive during the Seattle Pride Parade on
June 28, 2009 at 11:00 AM. We need volunteers
to monitor the food collection bins throughout the
parade route. You will still be able to watch the
parade and celebrate with friends. Please contact
Joe at: jointheimpactWA@gmail.com to sign up.
June 19, 2009
Seattle Gay News
15
Iris PRide
Festival
September 18th-20th, 2009
Lincoln City, Oregon
Jungle Love a-fair
Historic Taft District SW 51st
September 19th • 2 to 9PM
Emceed by Lily Armani
featuring Live Exotic animal performances,
drag shows, “growling” contest,
vendors, Flip-Flop Station, wine bar, & more!
Fall Harvest Cooking Demo
Culinary Center in Lincoln City
September 18th• 6 to 9 pm
$50 Meal and wine included
for more information 541.557.1125
Clam Bake
SURFTIDEs RESORT • outdoor fire pit
September 18th • 6PM
$15 all you can eat • Drink Service Available
Designed by Kent St. Clair
Quality Printing Service
“family” feud
Coastal aids network benefit
the filthy • September 18th & 19th
SEATING STARTS AT 8PM
$5 cover • 21 and over
Flamingo Bingo
eden hall • September 20th
Noon • 18 and over
Drink Service and Menu available
WWW.OREGONCOAST.ORG
16
Seattle Gay News
June 19, 2009
Eric Andrews-katz
Escape to
La Conner
by Eric Andrews-Katz
SGN A&E Writer
Many people today are choosing simple
day trips or overnight escapes to get their
travel fix. For Seattleites, there are many
choices and La Conner should not be overlooked. The waterfront town nestled by Deception Pass is a charming enough reason to
visit, but there are two gems that should not
be missed going up and coming back.
On the way to La Conner, plan a side trip
to The Outback Kangaroo Farm in Arlington. An incredible way to spend a couple
of hours, everyone will enjoy this place;
there’s no way not to. Ray and Joey Strom
started The Outback which currently houses
several breeds (and sizes) of kangaroos,
ringtail lemurs, peacocks, wallabies, llamas
and an entire assortment of other animals
you wouldn’t think would be gathered in Arlington. “Wallabies make great Washington
pets,” says Joey. She’s also quick to add, “If
you have a large yard with a six-foot fence.”
These affectionate kangaroos get about three
feet high and come from an area with a climate similar to Seattle’s, so neither rain nor
snow seems to bother them. The Outback is
located at 10030 SR 530 NE and is less than
a 45-minute drive away. Call 360-403-7474
for tour information and for easy directions.
Bring a lunch and enjoy.
La Conner is a sleepy but apparently Gayfriendly town, as rainbow flags were present
and couples were spotted along the streets.
For overnight reservations, check out the La
Conner Lodge at 205 N. First Street: 360466-1500. Settled on the water, the Lodge is
what relaxation is about. Room prices range
from $130 - $330 depending on need or deEric Andrews-katz
Kissing a llama at the Outback Kangaroo Farm in Arlington, WA
Deception Pass
sire. Most rooms have waterfront views and
gas fireplaces for ambience. The king-size
bed was luxurious, the view was spectacular, and there was a deep whirlpool tub in
the bathroom. The friendly staff hosted a
wine/cheese afternoon soiree, complete
with a piano player. The continental breakfast of assorted fruits, breads, muffins, tea
and coffee is top-notch. If you are traveling
with your pet, try the sister property the La
Conner Inn, located one block away.
If your food tastes lend themselves to a
formal seafood palate, then Nell Thorn’s
restaurant is for you. Conveniently located
adjacent to La Conner Inn, the menu averages $20-$25 a plate. The coconut/white
corn bisque was very tasty with the hint of
Thai flavor. The seafood plates all looked
beautifully prepared, but if you are not a fan
of plate di mare, then you may want to reconsider, as the land based dishes left something to be desired.
For a more basic fare, go to Legends, home
of local fry bread. Using a Native American
recipe, this fry bread was simple, basic and
delicious. If not familiar with fry bread, it’s
similar to an elephant ear, but doughier and
lighter. While good by itself, the choices of
powdered sugar, honey or jam makes the
snack soar. Try the fry bread taco for a different presentation of an old classic.
For the landlubber, the town offers a
variety of galleries, restaurants and little
shops that can easily fill a day of meandering. Know that the town may be small and
quaint, but the shops keep more urbanite
prices. Two museums are in town, The Quilt
June 19, 2009
Museum and a Museum of Northwest Arts,
but check ahead as they are closed early in
the week.
Going out on the water offers several great
choices. If speed is your need, try calling
Murray Hamilton (360-333-1925) for a tour
of Deception Pass. Mr. Hamilton’s tour is
personal and informative without being over
loaded. His laidback style is welcoming and
groups can be two to five people ($35/person). Tours are given by reservations only.
For a more hands-on experience, try Anacortes Kayak Tour (www.AnacortesKayakTours.com). This is a great experience even
for the complete novice and a wonderful
combination of exercise and visuals. Guided tours of 1.5 – 3 hours ($35 - $65) will set
you off paddling through Bowman’s Bay or
Deception Pass with sights of sea life and
explorations of coastlines and sea caves.
Don’t be afraid of turning over; it’s more
likely you’ll tip the guide and not the kayak.
On your way out of town en route back
to Seattle (via Best Road), stop at Rexville
Grocery. After hearing several boasts about
the “best sandwiches in the valley,” stopping there was almost like accepting a dare.
The sandwiches were accurately described
and I went back for a second one before getting too far away.
Whether it’s a day trip or an overnight adventure, La Conner is an easy way to enjoy
getting out of town. You can see the sights,
enjoy the food, kayak the bay and either be
pampered in a most comfortable bed or be
home in time for late-night TV.
Seattle Gay News
17
FAT CITY
Quality maintenance and repair since 1973.
508 Denny Way, Seattle 206 443 1999
www.fatcity.net
FAT CITY
FAT CITY
We’re proud
to celebrate
PRIDE with you!
MERCEDES | BMW | PORSCHE | AUDI | VOLKSWAGEN
MINI COOPER | LAND ROVER | VOLVO | JAGUAR
18
Seattle Gay News
June 19, 2009
Coupeville is Whidbey Island's shining star
Ron Roesler
Langley marina
by Ron Anders
SGN A&E Writer
My love affair with Washington State
continues. I assure you that this is not just
a schoolboy crush. I’ve been living in Seattle for over 20 years, but every time I venture out of the big city, I fall into the thrall
of Washington’s natural splendors. This
time it was Island County – Coupeville on
Whidbey Island, to be exact – a town which
is simultaneously sophisticated and bucolic,
sleepy and invigorating, an intoxicating and
alluring mix emblematic of Washington at
its most beautiful: the soaring mountain
views and waterway vistas that stretch to
the horizon. If you want to ride your bike,
take an invigorating hike or just sit in your
easy chair and read, you’ve found the perfect place. Whidbey residents like to boast
that the island gets only half as much rain as
Seattle, and after this year’s brutal winter,
that’s quite a selling point. Visiting Coupeville whetted my appetite to visit the other
towns on Whidbey – Langley, Clinton, Oak
Harbor, Freeland. I can’t wait to get back
there. When you plan your trip, check out
the official tourism website: www.WhidbeyCamanoIslands.com. Here’s how I advise spending a weekend getaway in Coupeville on Whidbey Island.
VOYAGE
Coupeville is about a two-hour jaunt from
Seattle. On I-5, take exit 189 (near Everett)
and travel west to the Mukilteo Ferry dock.
Ferries leave every half hour (www.wsdot.
wa.gov/ferries). Be sure to allow extra time
in peak season, as the lines can be long. For
those who want to avoid ferry lines, bring
your bikes; Whidbey is a two-wheeler’s
dream. If you want recession-proof transportation, there is free bus service on Whidbey (www.islandtransit.org).
SLEEP
Being a city boy, I’m used to waking up
to the constant drone of urban noise. At the
Whidwood Bed & Breakfast Inn (www.
whidwood.com), I was nudged from sleep
ever-so-gently by the sun streaming through
the skylight in my blissfully quiet room. Yes,
I could get used to this. The smell of freshly
brewed coffee wafted through the halls to
my spacious room (queen-sized bed and
futon sofa, plenty of closet space, adjacent
sun room), encouraging me to get out of bed
for a delicious breakfast of smoked salmon,
fresh fruit, yogurt, and bagels served by my
delightful hosts, innkeepers Chris and Ron.
They have created a warm and welcoming
atmosphere accented by cedar walls and
ceilings, endless bookshelves bulging with
new and antique tomes of every variety. The
Inn is surrounded by spectacular gardens,
maintained with obvious loving care and
skill, which envelop visitors in a cocoon of
color. You can take a long soak in the outdoor hot tub to relax those tired muscles after a long day of hiking. There are only two
guest rooms at the Whidwood, which only
adds to its quiet ambiance. Don’t just sit
there; make a reservation immediately!
be Kapaw’s Iskreme (www.kapaws.com).
As a connoisseur of frozen desserts, the
chocolate mousse ice cream nearly brought
tears to my eyes. There are at least 16 other
flavors that will tempt you. When a buddy
offered me a taste of his white chocolate
raspberry truffle cone, I almost didn’t give
it back – no wonder there was a line out the
door!
EAT
DO/SEE
When I asked locals to name their favorBe sure to take a walk on Front Street, the
ite eateries, The Oystercatcher (www.oys- main shopping drag in Coupeville, where
tercatcherwhidbey.com) in Coupeville was
on everyone’s list, and owners/chefs Jamie
and Joe proved them all right. I knew I was
in for a great meal when I took my first bite
of my appetizer: asparagus, roasted and then
chilled, mixed with local white and black
beans topped with crème fraiche – absolutely scrumptious! I could have easily made a
meal of just appetizers, which included tender pan-fried oysters and decadently succulent veal sweetbreads. For the main course,
I had their heavenly, melt-in-your-mouth
goat cheese dumplings: soft little pillows
filled with tart cheese, complemented by savory braised greens. Desserts ran the gamut
from tangy homemade sorbets to a divinely
rich Coffee Pot de Crème, and a creamy,
flourless hazelnut gateau hat sent our entire
party out into the night in a state of culinary
bliss. The handsome dining room (which
surrounds the open kitchen) has a classic,
relaxed vibe conducive to intimacy and easy
conversation. Dress-up or casual attire are
both fine here.
Cheerful hosts Rita and Chris opened the
Mosquito Fleet Galley restaurant (12 Front
Street) earlier this year and it has quickly
become a waterfront staple. From our windowside table, we had a crystal clear view
of Mt. Baker to the east, as well as a view of
the beach beneath us through a small plexiglass window under our table! Comfort food
is the order of the day here, and every delectable dish in this reasonably priced, casually
colorful eatery is homemade. I started lunch
with their steamingly rich clam chowder,
followed by a spicy pulled pork sandwich
and tangy coleslaw. I sampled my friend’s
slice of berry pie, a heavenly mélange of
marionberries, blueberries and raspberries
in a light, buttery crust even Martha Stewart
would envy.
Looking for a more rowdy atmosphere?
Try Toby’s Tavern (www.tobysuds.com),
where you can hang out with the locals or
shoot a game of pool while having some
great local seafood specialties. The salmon
fish and chips and fresh-steamed Penn Cove
mussels are especially tasty.
If you need a reward for a long hike (if not,
find another excuse!), your next stop should
June 19, 2009
you have your choice of eateries, galleries,
people-watching and window shopping.
Whidbey Island will easily fill all your
outdoor activity requirements. It has five
(count ‘em, five) State Parks, innumerable
water views, hiking trails, as well as horseback riding, bird-watching, kayaking, and
whale-watching. Locals told me that the
best hiking trails close to Coupeville are in
Fort Ebey State Park. Be sure to bring your
binoculars to observe all sorts of wildlife
up close as you hike. If kayaking is on your
must-do list, just head to Coupeville Wharf
where rentals are readily available.
If you love lighthouses like I do, be sure
to head to Fort Casey State Park, where Admiralty Head Lighthouse majestically overlooks Admiralty Inlet and the Keystone-Port
Townsend ferry crossing. I also happen to
love all things lavender – after all, it is our
(un)official color – so a visit to the Lavender Wind Farm (www.lavenderwind.com)
was an easy choice. It has acres of lavender
fields, gorgeous gardens, a koi pond, a lavender labyrinth, and gift shop, where you
can even buy lavender ice cream.
On my way home, I stopped at Greenbank
Farm to tour the Sunday Farmers Market
(May through October), where food and
crafts abound. Even if you’re not buying
anything, the folks at the market booths are
warm, friendly, and chatty. There are also
numerous galleries and gift shops, as well
as a very popular café serving great, fresh
local fare along with breads from the local
Screaming Banshee Baker. (The flax seed
bread we had was so scrumptious that my
traveling buddy and I bought two loaves to
take home.) Wanting one more comforting
stop before leaving Greenbank, I checked
out Meerkerk Rhododendron Gardens
(www.meerkerkgardens.org). If you think
you’ve seen all the colors of the rainbow,
think again. Meerkerk has rhodies in every
conceivable color, in addition to extensive
walking trails, romantic gazebos, a gift
shop, and a nursery.
Seattle Gay News
19
Honolulu's Rainbow
Film Festival not to be missed
How would you improve a trip to the Hawaiian island of Oahu filled with amazing
food, excellent entertainment, and exciting fun in the tropical sun? I would suggest
making sure your trip coincides with the
Honolulu Rainbow Film Festival, in memory of Adam Baran (HRFF).
Adam Baran was a local favorite and an
employee of Hula’s Bar and Lei Stand (the
club is still going strong after many years,
and in sporty new digs closer to the beach).
He was also a fledgling music video director
who had won a Billboard magazine award
for one of his videos just before he died of
AIDS in the late ‘80s. The first HRFF was
held at Hula’s in his honor 20 years ago.
The 20th edition of the HRFF ran May
21-24 in the Doris Duke Theatre at the Honolulu Academy of Arts in beautiful Honolulu, Hawaii. The roster included films from
all over the world, a couple of local flicks,
and a screening of the inspirational Oscarwinner Milk to close out the festivities.
Along for the ride was special guest,
Academy Award-winning screenwriter of
Milk, Dustin Lance Black. Another celebrity that showed was special guest host of
Sunday’s screening and gala, Emmy-winning comedian/writer/actor and Hollywood
Squares regular, Bruce Vilanch. In addition,
Seattle’s own celeb filmmaker/screenwriter
David Rothmiller, director of for my wife… ,
also showed up to support his documentary,
which was screening in competition.
Clapham Junction, a dark spellbinder
from the UK, opened the festival Thursday
evening after a Hawaiian chant by local artist Peter Espiritu and a lovely hula by dancers from his Tau Dance Theater.
In Clapham Junction, the narratives of a
number of Queer men interweave through
36 hours, ending in the doldrums of a hot
summer night in Clapham, South London.
The film has a couple of uplifting moments,
some oppressively sad moments, a few
frustrating moments, and one truly horrific moment. Though the dark elements
far outweigh anything uplifting, the film is
thought-provoking in a unique way. It does
owe a debt to Alejandro Gonzalez Inarritu’s
Amores Perros and Paul Haggis’ Crash, two
great films that owing a debt to is no shame.
Still, Clapham Junction has a unique honesty and sophisticated understatement that
Lance Rae
by Scott Rice
Seattle filmmaker/screenwriter David Rothmiller and Emmy-winning comedian/writer/actor Bruce Vilanch
is lacking in the other two films.
Clapham Junction went on to win best
feature film at the HRFF.
Ferron… girl on a road played Saturday
evening as the anchor of the “Girlz Showcase.” I believed this would be Lesbian night
at the HRFF, and my theory was proved
when three guys (myself included) and a
theater full of women enjoyed this sweet
concert movie masquerading as documentary. Ferron, for the six of you in Seattle who
don’t know, is a folk singer with a cult following who opted out of the music business
10 years ago after a bad deal with a major
record label. She reunites with her band, records some news songs, and takes the show
on a short tour. The film consists of about
12 songs performed at one of these shows
intercut with interviews of Ferron and her
bandmates.
Ferron… girl on a road went on to win
best documentary, and I won’t quibble too
much with that decision. It’s always fascinating to get inside the head of an artist, and
that is amplified whenever that artist is truly
unique like Ferron.
for my wife…, the other documentary at
the HRFF with ellipses in the title, is a locally made film that I loved and reviewed
last fall when it played the Seattle Lesbian
and Gay Film Festival. This is a solid documentary that is well crafted and inhabits its
cultural moment like few documentaries
ever have.
steven lane
For instance, the movie played the HRFF
on a Saturday afternoon, and on Tuesday the
California Supreme Court upheld the right
of the majority to dictate civil law based on
religious mythology through the vote. This
bitter pill is mollified slightly by progress in
states like Maine, Iowa, Vermont, and Washington State. for my wife… is so current that
Rothmiller had to reedit the film to keep up
with the ever-changing politics of marriage
equality.
for my wife… did earn an honorable mention in the documentary category, ultimately
losing to Ferron… girl on a road. However,
I think a tie would have been a more accurate judgment of both projects.
There were a couple of short films that I
liked that deserve mention, even though
they didn’t win anything. The Postcard hails
from South Korea and is a charming comedy
with wonderful comedic acting and a tight
plot for the first two thirds of the film. It’s
too bad the ending reads a bit like a punch
line and that nobody told director Josh Kim
that he didn’t need the last 30 seconds. Regardless, the short has a sweet heart, a deft
wit, and is rife with pretty guys and girls.
I also enjoyed Boycrazy, the homage to
Broadway that never forgets what it is – I
think. For 90% of the time, you are sure this
is purposeful satire. Then, every once in a
while, you forget, and the film seems to forget, that it is purposeful satire, and then it
starts to get silly and then you, and the film,
get reminded that it’s not all that serious after all.
Boycrazy most likely began life as the
real-deal Broadway-style musical where
boy gets boy, boy loses boy, boy gets two
boys and doesn’t know if he wants even one.
I believe that somewhere along the way,
writer/director John Sobrack got wise and
added the self-referential jokes that save the
film. This is pure speculation, but I’d love to
ask Sobrack directly.
Indeed, even with the familiar Queer milieu including gyms, bathrooms, chatrooms,
and beaches, everything is fresh and funny.
And gently ribbing Broadway’s bloated selfabsorption is always a good time.
Beautiful Oahu
20
Seattle Gay News
June 19, 2009
steven lane
Beauty Brawl, by first-time director Kevyn K. M. Fong, won the best Hawaiian production award. This one is a love-hate proposition for me. This little movie is technically impressive. The sound is complicated
and employs a number of old sound cues to
good effect. The camera angles are nice, the
editing is solid, and the lighting looks great.
Overall, the production values rock.
The problem is with the story; it’s lacking
in some details and overwrought with others. This took me out of the movie.
The setup works okay: local stylist
Philippe (with a “PH” not an “F”) is off to
start his own salon, but feeling some misgivings about moving on from his comfy
spot at his current salon where he’s top dog.
Philippe’s replacement is the inexplicably
named Jorgeo (this is where things unravel), fresh off the plane from Kentucky and
wanting to either steal Philippe’s clientele
or simply make Philippe happy, we don’t
ever know.
The ending feels like they ran out of money and had to cobble things together with
what they had. This probably isn’t true, but
the ending certainly doesn’t live up to the
rest of the film and it seems odd tacked on to
the end of such a well-crafted project.
The acting is fun with solid performances
by both leads (both gorgeous boys, by the
way) in thanklessly swishy roles that reflect
the nature of broad comedy. However, the
woman who plays the salon owner steals the
show. I hear from cast members it was her
first acting gig. If this is true, she’s a natural and I hope she pursues more roles. Her
comedic timing is flawless and her face is
made of rubber. I wish I had access to their
correct names, but I wasn’t provided a press
kit and cast details are not listed on the
HRFF website.
The director is the one to watch here. Fong
obviously knows how to make movies, but
he may need to have someone else write the
story.
Weak Species, directed by Dan Faltz was
hands down the most controversial film
screened at the festival. This polarizing film
even caused a ruckus among the programming committee. While I like the film a lot,
there are also a few problems that need to
be worked out if, as I hear, the funding for a
feature length version is a go.
Erik Smith (who thankfully dropped the
middle name “Scott” from his professional
credits) is mesmerizing as George, a selfdestructive teen that runs into a couple of
nasty men who are happy to help him realize his destructive desires.
Brendan Bradley fares less well as the
self-deluded artist wannabe, Steve. He admittedly plays a character who really wants
to be smarmy, and the trouble may lie as
much with the writing as it does with the
acting, but I just couldn’t buy into the character. A bit of subtlety would have served
Bradley well, especially in the shadow of
Smith’s modulated performance.
Weak Species is a terrifying film. About
10 people left the theater at one point. And
I already mentioned the discord it caused
among the festival programming committee. However, the violence is not graphic,
even if some argue it is salacious. I think it
works metaphorically when you consider
how disaffected Queer youth can so easily
end up in the hands of nefarious sorts who
the young folks think are fulfilling their
desires. The world can be a rough place
for young people with no support systems,
and I believe that’s what this film is about.
I hope you get a chance to see it and decide
for yourself. And remember, it’s all right to
put your coat over your eyes. This one will
stay with you for a while.
The closing-night gala on Sunday, May
24 began on a lovely tropical evening in the
Henry Luce Pavillion, which is also part of
the Honolulu Academy of Arts. The night
was billed as Aloha Formal (Steven and I
didn’t get it right, but we’ll never be known
as savvy dressers) and included heavy pupus (Bruce Vilanch made the joke at the reception so I won’t bother to here) and local
entertainment. Dustin Lance Black (who
kept all three of his names) introduced the
screening of Milk and followed it up with a
short Q&A. (I got to meet him briefly but
didn’t fawn over him, I promise.) It was a
terrific party and festival, and I hope I’m invited back next year.
(left to right) Kevyn K. M. Fong, director of Beauty Brawl, Christopher Ian Matt, star of Beauty Brawl, and Scott Rice at the closing gala
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June 19, 2009
Seattle Gay News
21
Ten ways to deal with the fear of flying
by Albert Rodriguez
SGN A&E Writer
stand that getting to Thailand from Seattle
requires hopping on a plane, then here are
non-scientific, non-therapeutic tips I often
I love to fly. I look forward to being on recommended to friends and family that I
an airplane almost as much as I enjoy the hope will prove useful to you on the day of
whole trip itself. From the arrival at the air- flight. Bon voyage!
port to the check-in counter to the in-flight
1) Bring lots to do onboard
amenities, I absolutely love it! Despite a
My problem is boredom, so I’ve learned
freakish thunderstorm several years ago en
route to Key West from Miami, in which our to take all kinds of materials and gadgets
turbo prop danced in the air for a good five with me on-board the plane. I’ll even punminutes, I’ve always considered flying to ish myself the week leading up to a flight
be a very safe form of travel. But if you’re by purchasing DVDs or books that I dessomeone who’s terrified of being 35,000 perately want to dive into, but I won’t open
feet above ground, and you clearly under- them until we’re airborne – this way, it gives
me something to really look forward to. I
remember buying Madonna’s Ray of Light
on the day of release, but waiting until a
flight later that week to listen to it – from the
moment we reached 10,000 feet to the prelanding announcement, I listened to it over
and over again with delight. I recommend
taking items that are guaranteed to grab
your attention vs. items that have potential
to do so, in other words if you’re a diehard
fan of Lost or Entourage vs. a so-so fan of
Desperate Housewives, you’d want to pack
the former because they have a much stronger chance of keeping you entertained. I’m
a music devotee, so I download two or four
new albums on my iPod before a flight and
wait until we’re airborne to enjoy them, and
combined with a favorite beverage I’m as
happy as can be in the clouds. I also recommend, and I’ve been doing this for years,
ripping out individual pages from magazines or newspapers and taking them with
you in a manila folder, then reading them
one by one during the flight – and I’m not
talking about serious reading material either, I tote all the trashy, gossipy, meaningless, guilty pleasure articles with me to read
on a plane. The key is not allowing even a
minute of your flight going unplanned; have
something at the ready to listen, read or do
for the entire leg of your trip.
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2) Cocktails take the
edge off
I’m not a big drinker, though I turn into
a lush when I fly. After clearing security,
I make a beeline for the bar or first-class
lounge (if I’m fortunate enough) and stay
there until my final boarding call – interestingly, I’ve missed flights because of
this. Sea-Tac Airport has great cocktail
spots, noticeably Vino Volo (SGN’s Top
Ten Bars-Lounges, Best of Travel 2008),
Anthony’s Restaurant, Seattle Tap Room,
and Africa Lounge. Cocktails help take the
edge off, and watching complete strangers
swigging tequila shots at 8 a.m. might ease
your nerves and allow you to hop on that
plane and get it over with. At some point,
you have to board the plane – why not do it
with a good buzz? Onboard, I upgrade to a
premium cocktail because after all the effort
to make this flight – laundry, packing, airport shuttle, security, etc. – I deserve a very
good drink. Cocktails can aid when it comes
to turbulence; on a Houston to Seattle flight
two years ago, we hit a patch of strong turbulence, and I had a great buzz going, so I
just closed my eyes and pretended I was on
a carnival ride, while the person sitting next
to me clutched the armrest with everything
she had – seriously, I was giggling as she
was terrified. I don’t suggest getting drunk,
just a buzz to settle the nerves.
3) Chat with fellow
passengers
Remember that scene in the movie
French Kiss, when a fearful Meg Ryan is sitting on the runway next to Kevin Kline and
he purposely argues with her during takeoff to take her mind away from it? Bingo,
it works! If you’re fortunate to sit next to a
passenger who appears polite, let them know
upfront that you don’t fly well and you’d appreciate some conversation along the way
to pass the time. Years ago, on a nine-hour
SGN
Seattle Gay News
22
Seattle Gay News
June 19, 2009
flight to Paris, I sat next to a woman who
mildly panicked any time the airplane made
a sudden jolt. I finally took my headset off
and began talking with her, and we proceeded to talk for much of the trip until we
landed. Out of boredom and slight curiosity, I’ve had countless borderline-tactless
discussions with people sitting next to me
– once, a fellow passenger confided in me
that he’d cheated on his wife during a recent
business trip (that was an adventure!). And,
believe it or not, I once sat next to a guy who
later became the husband of a good friend.
4) Extra-long
bathroom breaks
Again, out of boredom, I remember going to the lavatory for no apparent reason,
and it suddenly dawned on me: this makes a
great place to dance. I was buzzed, listening
to an electronic album on my iPod, and my
legs needed stretching, so at 33,000 feet I
boogied in an airplane restroom. This dispensed 12 minutes of my flight time, and
surprisingly no one was in line when I came
out. I see no reason why you can’t escape to
the restroom for 10 minutes on a flight, possibly multiple times, if you’re struck with
a mild case of panic. Brush your teeth, do
your hair, wash your face, or dance as I did,
but with no windows it’s a private, enclosed
nook away from your seat.
5) Upgrade to business
or first-class
Not everyone can afford a cabin upgrade, but if you can, do it. More comfort
equals better flight. The advantage of having more legspace means you have more
wiggle room (literally) during takeoff, landing, or patches of turbulence, the times you
could really use some extra space. You also
get free drinks, which American-based airlines are notorious on charging for even for
long-haul flights. When I flew to France last
September, almost three hours alone were
dissolved by the consumption of complimentary food and beverages. Also, entertainment is often gratis to first-class passengers on short-haul flights, while main
cabin passengers must either bring their
own headsets and/or pay for usage of the
airline’s OnDemand services.
8) Think destination,
destination, destination
An incentive of any onboard passenger
is to get to where they’re going, but it’s extremely beneficial to the jittery traveler to
know that each minute is a minute closer to
their destination. When traveling to somewhere fun, like Oahu, I always bring magazine articles pertaining to the island to create
extra excitement along the way. Also, being
the Virgo that I am, I’ll write list after list
during my flight of things I want to buy or
do while I’m there. Halfway to Hawaii, I’m
already imagining myself on the beach with
a mai tai.
9) Rest well the
night before
Groggy travelers become even more
miserable during a flight, which is why I
recommend a good night’s rest the night before. This includes no hangovers. Especially
if you can’t fall asleep on planes, often the
case with fearful passengers, those extra
hours of sleep will do you wonders. I also
recommend going for a walk before heading to the airport to stretch your legs prior
to your trip – it’s become a ritual for me to
walk the length of Waikiki Beach right before checking out of my hotel, a meditationin-motion tool that relaxes me before the
possible delays or frustrations at the airport.
10) Keep track of your
flight time manually
This might sound kooky, but I do it all
the time. As soon as the plane lifts off the
ground, keep a manual tally of your time
– for example, if it’s a 2-hour, 15-minute
flight to San Francisco, write 2:15 on a fresh
sheet of paper and throughout the trip deduct minutes from it. This helps by giving
you a visual of how much time you have before landing. I did this on an excruciatingly
long flight from Amsterdam, and completely underestimated the time remaining as 2
hours when suddenly a view of Mt. Rainier
appeared through my window. Again, it’s
something else to keep your mind occupied,
and each 5 or 10 minutes deducted provides
a bit more excitement prior to landing.
6) Watch YouTube videos
prior to flight
Some medical professionals recommend
flight simulators and aviation books prior to
flying, hoping that a better understanding of
how an aircraft operates will help your overall tension. I don’t disagree with these experts, so go for it if you can afford the fees.
But a simpler and less expensive method, if
you’re looking for visuals of a flight experience, is to log onto www.youtube.com and
search for “takeoff” and landing” – people
routinely post videos of actual takeoffs and
landings, even from the most remote places
on earth. Try inserting a destination as part
of the search, like “landing London” and
you’ll find dozens of videos filmed directly
from a passenger’s seat as they landed at
Heathrow or Gatwick airports. I’ve spent
many hours watching takeoffs and landings
to cities high on my list of places to visit, including Tokyo, Buenos Aires, Sydney, and
Dubai.
7) Make use of the airline’s
entertainment system
Depending on the airline and length of
flight, you might be treated to complimentary on-board entertainment. Virgin America has an excellent entertainment system,
offering passengers an extensive selection
of music videos, satellite TV, video games,
full-length albums, and chatrooms that allow you to socialize with fellow passengers
on your flight (hey, dude in 23A, you’re a
hottie!). Last year on a Northwest flight
from Seattle to Honolulu, I watched two
great films back to back in the main cabin
for free, Michael Clayton and Gone Baby
Gone – I even took my own DVDs and a
fully-charged iPod, but never used them.
Embarrassingly, I admit to watching Forgetting Sarah Marshall and Sex and the
City twice aboard Air France last fall. I suggest looking up your flight on the airline’s
website prior to your trip and finding out if/
what will be offered.
June 19, 2009
Seattle Gay News
23
Provenance Hotels
Sizing up three
downtown Seattle hotels
Lobby at Hotel Max
by Albert Rodriguez
SGN A&E Writer
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24
Seattle Gay News
June 19, 2009
Whatever the reason – economic crunch,
lack of vacation time, priorities at home
– an overnight retreat in Seattle is a great
idea, and one that has increased in popularity within the Gay community. Birthdays,
anniversaries and college graduations are
just a few occasions that have encouraged
pods of mostly Gay men to book rooms and
dinner reservations at several downtown
hotels. Personally, I believe Seattle has one
of the best variety of hotels in the country,
so if you can’t make it to Hawaii any time
soon, then at least pamper yourself with a
night away from home, at home. Here’s the
lowdown on three downtown properties.
Hotel 1000
www.hotel1000seattle.com
Hands down, Hotel 1000 is Seattle’s best
luxury hotel – you can defend the Sorrento,
Alexis and Fairmont until you’re blue in
the face but it will do little to change my
mind. Even pop superstar Britney Spears
adores this contemporary haven, hanging
her celebrity tiara here when she brought
the earth-circling Circus tour to the Puget
Sound. Grammy-winning babes John Mayer and John Legend and veteran musician
Paul Weller have also rested their assets at
Hotel 1000. Rooms are gorgeously decorated in a Northwest palate of browns with
abundant window views on each side, and
modern pluses create a sophisticated yet
warm feel that vibrates throughout. In-room
amenities range from two-person pedestal
tubs with overhead shower faucets to wallmounted, swiveling flatscreen TVs to Molton Brown bath products, not to mention
snuggly robes, complimentary morning
newspaper, crisp Thai linens, down pillows,
and a heating system that automatically adjusts to your body temperature.
Hotel 1000’s signature restaurant-lounge
is BOKA Kitchen + Bar, providing guests
and local diners a wonderful menu of regional favorites – while executive chef
Angie Roberts plays it safe with familiars
such as halibut, chicken breast and crab
cakes, her dishes are a consistent perfection of abundant flavor and elegant presentation. I never recommend a place that I
wouldn’t go to myself, which is why you’ll
likely catch me diving into a bacon mac ‘n’
cheese on a weekend night – just $8 off the
bar menu – or sinking my teeth into a plate
of fresh Northwest tacos served with a zesty
chipotle remoulade for lunch. BOKA, high
on my list of suggested stops en route to a
Benaroya Hall performance or other live
show, has assembled a $25 three-course
Pride Brunch on June 28 that will feature
items such as baked-to-order mini cinnamon rolls, brown butter crepes and Oregon
hazelnut-encrusted French toast. Spaahh at
Hotel 1000 deserves a mention, if not for its
separated pedicure station than for its terrific “Happy Hour,” where you can indulge
with a 30-minute Pick-Me-Up massage
($48) or 30-minute express facial ($45) - offered Monday thru Friday between 11:30
a.m. to 2:30 p.m., you can easily schedule
your treatment on your lunch break or treat
a colleague to an early afternoon birthday
surprise.
Be sure to tell your out-of-town friends
about Hotel 1000’s Pride Package, starting
at $385, that includes a deluxe city-view
room, two tickets for The Cuff Complex’s
post-parade bash (with special entry bracelets, no waiting in line), overnight parking,
two BOKA discount cards, two signature
cocktails at BOKA, Hotel 1000 tote bag,
and 15 percent off a visit to Spaahh or Decleor eye cream.
Hotel Max
www.hotelmaxseattle.com
Where do cool people stay at in Seattle?
Hotel Max, of course. What used to be the
old Vance Hotel on 6th and Stewart is now
a hipster hotspot that woos art-inspired travelers and many touring rock bands. Each
of its 163 rooms is adorned with blown-up
photographs by Northwest artists, including giant stills of local music icons Kurt
Cobain and Eddie Vedder – throughout the
hotel, over 350 pieces of art are displayed.
Unique to the Max and its sister locations in
Portland and Tacoma – Hotel deLuxe, Hotel
Lucia and Hotel Murano – are the “spiritual
menus,” allowing guests to select their preferred reading material, from The Koran to
the Book of Mormon. I found my bathroom
to be on the petite side, though the rest of the
space was more than enough needed for my
overnight urban retreat – while it was chilly
outside, I enjoyed the warmth and comfort
of a soft bed, flatscreen TV and Torrefazione coffee. The Aveda bath products are a
nice bonus, as are the plush in-room robes.
The Red Fin, on the ground level of Hotel Max, is an Asian-infused restaurant, part
sushi counter, that constantly gets hit with
a happy hour rush – the $6 Seattle roll, $7
chicken satay and $3.50 pint of Manny’s is
a light meal by itself. I recently stopped by
for dinner and was pleased with the shitake
mushroom dumplings, aburi salmon, and
maple leaf duck breast – however, to be honest, I’ve eaten here before and the food was
a notch better. The service was outstanding;
attentive servers never let my water glass
go dry and the bartender made drink recommendations that were on the money. No
worries if you leave your laptop at home,
just use one of two hard-wire computer stations in the hotel’s 24-hour business center,
and for those needing to keep in shape, a 24hour fitness center is available on premise.
Hotel Max loves its non-hetero clientele,
extending a year-round “Gaycation” package starting at $199 that includes a room,
two “Maxtinis” at Red Fin, and a “Climax
Box” filled with naughty goodies – pink
handcuffs with matching blindfold, glow in
the dark dice, feather, lube, MiniMax vibrator – an O Boy Kit (for the dudes) and O My
Clitoral Stimulating gel-tonguedinger (for
the ladies).
Four Seasons
www.fourseasons
.com/seattle
The name Four Seasons is synonymous
with luxury travelers – you need only walk
into the Whistler hotel belonging to this
well-known chain for a true definition of
splurge. When Seattle opened its doors to
the Four Seasons in 2008, a high-rise hotel and residential development on 1st and
Union, the buzz was thicker than molasses
– with a prime downtown address and huge
brand name to stand on, the Four Seasons
was on track to be the city’s newest “it”
spot. Unfortunately, it hasn’t reached that
level of excitement because it simply isn’t
as exciting as one would think – don’t get
me wrong, it’s beautiful, pristine and owns
some of the best views of Elliott Bay. But the
wow factor is missing. I stayed here earlier
this year, and was impressed more with its
amenities than the accommodations, which
is not how you want to remember an overnight experience. My room was spacious
and lovely, and the unobstructed view of Elliott Bay is worth repeating, yet the distinction of Four Seasons wasn’t here – with the
exception of a knockout marble restroom
(where I spent the least of my time), I found
the color scheme to be unflattering, and the
decor was classy, though not vibrant. The
bed was super-comfy, large flatscreen TV
with DVD was much-needed on a cold evening, and a rainhead shower is always a nice
touch, but it didn’t feel like I was sleeping at
a Four Seasons, and this is a problem for a
chain with such a reputable following. This
147-room hotel is grand – I can’t over emphasize its beauty enough – yet I was looking to be blown away.
Art Restaurant and Lounge is the Four
Seasons’ premiere dining attraction, headed by chef Kerry Sear and inspired by the
hotel’s impressive collection of work by
Northwest-based artists. The layout of the
room is stunning, and again those views of
the water are unbeatable, though I chose
to sit at the bar and mingle with fellow
guests. Since my visit, the menu has slightly changed – likely adjusting to the season
– and my organic green salad, duck entree
and lemon meringue pie with Meyer lemon
sorbet were good, though for the price and
a solid reputation on the line, this meal was
underwhelming. I suggest drinks and nibbles at Art if you’re looking for a swanky
locale on the way to the 5th Avenue Theatre,
but for an amazing dinner that will leave
you speechless I can’t recommend it in good
faith. However, I can suggest the Spa at Four
Seasons with top praise – in fact, it’s one of
only a few spas in Seattle that I’d refer anyone to. My massage therapist had magical
hands, finding the tiniest kink in my back
and neck – firm pressure, careful attention
to stress areas, and very good techniques
helped win this massage enthusiast over. Be
sure to view the hotel’s spa page for their
“Summer Spa Tapas Treatments.”
While I didn’t become a big fan of the
Four Seasons or its restaurant, I did go gaga
over its infinity pool and outdoor deck with
impeccable views of the water and Olympics. The fitness center is equally dynamite,
giving health disciples a modern, expansive
space to work out at.
dancer 2 / photobucket.com
Hotel 1000
June 19, 2009
Seattle Gay News
25
Shaun Knittel
Cruise
continued from cover
there is never any need for cash, or for that
matter, a credit card. All guests are issued
a ship card and you simply swipe the card
and your account is charged. At the end of
the cruise, you settle the bill with the customer service desk. I gave the front desk my
credit card information at the beginning of
the cruise, so my bill would be automatically paid upon my debarkation of the vessel.
The system works beautifully.
Memorizing the ship may take a day or
two, but you’ll get the hang of it. At each
of the 12 elevators is a diagram of the ship,
and signs telling you what restaurants and
businesses are on each floor. On the Norwegian Star, three decks housed most of the
main attractions, as well as the ship’s casino. The Grand Atrium, located mid-ship,
was the perfect place to get your bearings if
you got lost.
RSVP takes over the entire ship as the
host. The ship’s staff couldn’t have been
more accommodating. This being my first
all-Gay cruise, I was worried about how the
crew would interact with us. Much to my
surprise, the staff didn’t even blink an eye
when they saw two men kissing or holding
hands – in fact, I saw more than one crewman dancing with the throngs of Speedoclad men at a T-Dance.
Staterooms
The rooms aboard the Norwegian Star
range from an interior, with no view, to a
suite, which includes a balcony. If you’ve
got the extra bread, then it would be advantageous to upgrade. My room had a
balcony affording me the opportunity to
watch the sunset, fall asleep to the sounds
of the ocean, and sip coffee in the crisp
morning air. I was amazed at how big the
room was, leaving room for a TV, small
desk, couch and coffee table. The TV was
especially helpful; four of the stations were
internal, so RSVP broadcast information
about upcoming entertainment and parties while the Norwegian crew broadcast
information about the ship’s schedule and
26
Seattle Gay News
T-Dance Mellow Yellow
June 19, 2009
informational videos about the next port
of call. Each night, room stewards dressed
down the room and left a helpful copy of
the Freestyle Daily, the ship’s newspaper,
which contained information about the next
day, from events itinerary to daily specials
at the spa. It is important to note that wireless internet was not offered in any room,
and I instead had to visit the ship’s internet
café. I heard a number of guests commenting on how nice it was to be free of the cell
phone and e-mail for a week. The in-cabin
bathroom was a manageable size. I would
recommend bringing your own toiletries;
the shampoos and lotion products were subpar. RSVP encouraged us to decorate our
cabin doors, and boy, did we! Feather boas,
fake palm trees, and glitter could be found
hanging from many a stateroom door. I was
impressed with the stateroom’s soundproofing; if there was a party going on above or
below my room, it never affected the ambient noise of the ocean.
Dining Options
International cuisines abound, and I quickly realized that shipboard dining was going
to be a real treat. Norwegian Cruise Lines
developed something they call “Freestyle
Cruising.” The idea is you can wear what
you want and eat when you want. There is
no assigned seating, so it makes it that much
easier to meet fellow guests. In fact, I met
the bulk of my newfound friends at the Market Café, the free buffet on Deck 12 that
served breakfast, lunch, and dinner. If you
so desired, you could shell out a few extra
bucks, averaging around $15 per person, to
eat at one of the ship’s specialty restaurants.
I spent extra to eat at the sushi and sake bar,
which was a delight when the chef dutifully
taught me how to roll sushi. I tried lobster
tacos at the Tex-Mex Endless Summer restaurant and had a hearty portion of Chicken
Parmesan at La Tratorria. Although it’s fun
trying out the endless list of dining options,
I’m a budget vacationer. The ship’s free
buffet was by far the best place to dine on
the Star because they offered the same food
choices, minus steak and lobster, as every
specialty restaurant. The buffet dessert bar
had a chocolate fountain; there was an impressive selection of sushi and seafood, as
well as down-home favorites such as fried
chicken and mashed potatoes. The pool
deck featured a free-of-charge ice cream
bar and short-order grill. Room service
was available around the clock. “Freestyle
Cruising” made it so I never had to wait in
line for a meal. Whenever I am on vacation,
two things – food and lodging – can make
or break the experience. In this case, RSVP
and Norwegian definitely made the grade
for good service, wonderful presentation,
and nurtured the atmosphere of getting to
know your neighbor.
Bar Services
Gay men and women enjoy cocktails. That
is a true statement. The ship’s bar staff told
me how much fun they were having with the
all-Gay cruisers. Between endless pool parties, T-Dances and theater shows, passengers were throwing back drinks like it was
Pride weekend. There is an extra charge for
alcohol; however, you pay far less for drinks
aboard ship then you would at your local
watering hole. The Norwegian Star had an
English pub, a dance club with video bar and
carousel horses, a cocktail lounge, wine bar,
and the ever-popular poolside bar. The endless staff of cute Asian, European and Latin
American barmen was an absolute pleasure
to order drinks from as service was always
fast, with a smile, and on a first-name basis. By the end of the cruise, it was common
to have a favorite among the group making
sure your drink never ran dry. Each bar and
lounge – 11 in total – had a full bar with any
kind of alcohol you could imagine and a
very impressive selection of international
beers. Spinnaker Lounge, at the bow of the
ship, was my absolute favorite. The lounge
was spacious with windows from floor to
ceiling, allowing amazing views of the Pacific. On more than one night, my shipboard
friends and I took our cocktails in the Spinnaker, chatting about the day’s happenings
and watching the sunset.
you, especially as an LGBT person, the
ports of call are of utmost importance. Can I
kiss my boyfriend in public? Is the port city
Gay-friendly? These are valid questions for
the pink traveler. In this case, an all-Gay vacation company like RSVP is the way to go.
The three Mexican ports, Cabo San Lucas,
Mazatlan, and Puerto Vallarta were perfect
locations to drop off nearly 1,000 Gay men
and women all at once. Of the group, Puerto
Vallarta was the real gem. Cabo San Lucas is
worth seeing, but a bit overrated. It was nice
to sip a cocktail near the bay and say you’ve
been to the resort town, but I really don’t see
what all the rage is about. Mazatlan was an
authentic Mexican city. I enjoyed the township feel of it. As a tourist, I was able to just
sort of blend in with the locals. Particularly,
I liked not being hassled by local sidewalk
salesmen to buy a bunch of stuff I didn’t
want. It was Puerto Vallarta that took my
breath away. The clean beaches, beautiful
men, and friendly atmosphere of the resort
town were very inviting. Along the beaches
I saw a man making the most extraordinary
sand sculpture of a larger-than-life-size Last
Supper. I bought a painting from a local
artist who used different shades of brown,
made from coffee ink, to paint scenes of
Puerto Vallarta. The painting smells like a
fresh cup of joe. I had tortilla soup at a roadside café and sampled flavored tequila at a
local bar with a view of the sea. Puerto Vallarta also has one of the highest concentrations of Gay Mexican men, so it was very
cruisy. Blue Chairs Beach Hotel is located
directly behind the Gay beach, and a few
blocks from the local Gay clubs. I saw half
the Star passengers there; it was the definitive spot to be for locals and tourists. Transportation to and from the ship while in port
is performed skillfully; again, I never had to
wait in line. You need to be mindful of the
time, however; the ship docks for an average of six to eight hours for each port and
will leave – with or without you – when it’s
time to pull anchor and steam towards the
next destination.
Ports of Call
When deciding which cruise is right for
Entertainment
RSVP really stands out when it comes to
entertaining their guests. The daily itinerary was jam-packed with everything from
a silent art auction to bingo and Gay dating games. You could take a class on international beers, cooking, or how to choose
the perfect bottle of wine for your taste.
The classes, group events and parties were
the perfect way for a solo traveler like myself to meet all kinds of interesting people.
Live entertainment, ranging from acoustic
to cabaret, could be heard in any one of the
bars and lounges. Guests were encouraged
to volunteer for pool games, the very entertaining costume party, and the swimsuit
competition.
The Stardust Theater, an over-the-top gaudy red and gold entertainment venue, showcased nightly entertainment. I was worried
the dance troupe, Jean Ann Ryan Company,
would deliver some cheesy numbers, but
they certainly did not disappoint. The international cast of vocalists and dancers
entertained the audience with “Band on the
Run” a ‘70s disco flashback, “Cirque Pacific” featuring Chinese acrobats, and “Music
of the Night” a musical tribute to Andrew
Lloyd Webber. International Dance recording artist Abigail Bailey turned the theater
into a dance club, performing her hits, “Let
the Joy Rise” and “Forever Young,” among
others. The headline act, Debbie Reynolds,
was a real treat. She made two appearances, a stage show in the theater, and – best
of all – an intimate Q & A session in Spinnaker Lounge. For her stage show, Debbie
sang her hits, dazzled the crowd with a Judy
Garland medley, and danced and sang along
with video images from her movie career.
The piano cabaret duo of Amy Armstrong
and Freddy Allen stole the show. Armstrong
and Allen are a modern-day Bette Midler
and Barry Manilow, and they received a
standing ovation after each of their three
performances.
Each night, RSVP put together a themed
party where cruisers could dance, including
the underwear party, bear “Sweat” or “Mellow Yellow” retro T-Dances, and the very
well attended leather party and “Hot Tamale” T-Dance.
June 19, 2009
All-Gay Cruise Tips
I became a fan of all-Gay cruises within
hours of coming aboard the Norwegian
Star. My experience was a nonstop party
from beginning to end, and I wasn’t the only
one – everyone I came into contact with had
a big smile on their face as if to say, “This
is our ship, and we are going to party our
way.” Don’t hesitate to go it alone; meeting
new people was half the fun. Just because
you brought a box of condoms doesn’t mean
you have to leave with them! Hooking up
aboard ship was a common thing; the atmosphere was conducive to playing the field.
Don’t be afraid to bring your partner, either,
sex and partying are but one aspect of the
Gay utopia of sailing with a Gay cruise. I
saw plenty of Gay couples quietly enjoying
time together poolside or sharing a candlelit
dinner at the steakhouse. The point is, you
can get away or be in the thick of it when
cruising with RSVP. The choice is yours. I
would recommend pampering yourself in
the spa at least once. The prices, compared
to most hotel spas, were extremely affordable. In-port days especially, the spa offered
great deals for $99 that included up to three
choices of services ranging from a massage
to a mud bath. Speaking of ports, I recommend getting off the ship to enjoy a port or
two. Mexican port cities are not dangerous
like the border towns of Tijuana and Juarez. Not once did I feel I was in any danger
while ashore in Mexico. Do not overdo it
the first and second day. RSVP makes the
itinerary doable, but pace yourself or you’ll
end up napping the parties away nursing
a hangover. Watch the sunset or sunrise
at least once while sailing – it is terribly
romantic and a wonderful time to gather
your thoughts. Enjoy a drink or two, but
remember the bill comes at the end. Those
$6 cocktails adds up quick if you don’t pay
attention. If you are traveling solo, get involved. Take a risk and participate in one of
the contests, and before you know it, you’ll
have a ton of new friends to experience the
rest of the cruise with. Invite people to dine
with you and make plans to meet others for
drinks later in the night. You will find that
an all-Gay cruise is the only way to cruise.
Seattle Gay News
27
HEAT THINGS UP IN ICELAND
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Hit the Ice Bar, a bar made of… well, ice, of course, and then join the “runtur,”
Iceland’s weekend version of a street party. Be prepared to meet an international cast
of characters and leave with enough wild stories to fill your very own Saga. It’s a
no-holds-barred weekend, brought to you by Europe’s “it” party destination. End your
trip with a steamy dip in the Blue Lagoon… the perfect way to finish any adventure!
Stopover in gay-friendly Iceland for no additional airfare en route to 18 destinations
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limited. *Prices quoted are exclusive of applicable taxes and official charges by destination of approx. $100 per person, including the September 11th Security Fee.

sgn summer travel guide

Transcription

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