Press Release
Transcription
Press Release
contents MAY volume 56/number 9 COVERSTORY With digital technologies occupying increasing space in our minds and lives, it’s no surprise that many of this year’s award winners took honors for innovations in the areas of marketing and merchandising, or that a number aligned themselves with another big trend that is making waves as technology makes more things possible: mass one-to-one customization. We say kudos to all of Apparel’s innovators, who continue to move the industry forward in interesting and unexpected ways. BY JORDAN K. SPEER, JESSICA BINNS AND DEENA M. AMATO-MCCOY Cover photography courtesy of Kokatat, Photo credit Jordy Searle INNOVATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PAGE INNOVATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PAGE Acustom Apparel . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Aerosoles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Ascena Retail Group . . . . . . . . . . .38 Betabrand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Brooks Brothers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Buffalo Exchange . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 bumbrella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 Canada Goose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Chico's . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Dragon Crowd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Everything But Water . . . . . . . . . . .26 Francesca's . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Garmatex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Harry Rosen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Hatley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 in the pink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 JustFab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Kathmandu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Kokatat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Koos Manufacturing . . . . . . . . . . . .21 L. L. Bean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Lands' End Business Outfitters . . .12 Macy's . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Mitchells . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 Mizuno Running . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Mountain Equipment Co-op . . . . . .29 Performance Scrubs . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Rebecca Minkoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 RG Barry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Stantt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 SustainU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 Timberland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Topson Downs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Twice as Nice Uniforms . . . . . . . . .28 Under Armour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Vestagen Technical Textiles . . . . . .15 TOP INNOVATOR SPONSORS BY JORDAN K. SPEER, JESSICA BINNS AND DEENA M. AMATO-MCCOY With digital technologies occupying increasing space in our minds and lives, it’s no surprise that many of this year’s award winners took honors for innovations in the areas of marketing and merchandising, or that a number aligned themselves with another big trend that is making waves as technology makes more things possible: mass one-to-one customization. Our winners include a company that doesn’t produce a product until it pre-sells enough of the item to manufacture it, and another that inspired its customers with a study revealing the collective results that could accrue to the U.S. population – including, perhaps ironically, 14 billion fewer hours spent online – if everybody ran. 8 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com You’ll also find out about a dry suit that lets you disrobe halfway and a shapewear garment that doesn’t pose health risks. You’ll learn how several companies are transforming medical scrubs to meet modernday needs, while many others are gaining deep insights into their supply chains — and getting closer to their customers — by dumping their legacy systems for connected systems that allow them to better harness the increasing mass of data available to them. We say kudos to all of Apparel’s innovators, who continue to move the industry forward in interesting and unexpected ways. Rebecca Minkoff New York, N.Y. | www.rebeccaminkoff.com NOMINATED BY: eBay | www.ebayinc.com and Avery Dennison | www.rbis.averydennison.com f, while watching Downton Abbey, you’ve ever slipped into a reverie in which you have a lady’s maid who helps select and bring you your clothes, knows your personal preferences, adjusts your surroundings to suit you and generally makes smooth the path of your day, well, Rebecca Minkoff just may help your dream come true. In an example of how our online and offline worlds are beginning to collide, Rebecca Minkoff, designer and retailer of handbags, apparel and accessories, in November 2014 unveiled its “Connected Store” in two locations, one in New York’s SoHo neighborhood and one in San Francisco. The store used Connected Glass and other technologies from eBay to merge the experiences of shopping online and shopping in a brick-and-mortar store via “Connected Walls” — oversized mirrored displays where customers can view videos, browse content, request items to be sent to fitting rooms, push checkout to their mobile phone, have I the items shipped home, and even order beverages. Inside fitting rooms, customers can continue to interact with connected mirrors to request assistance or other items, save their items to mobile for later, check out and even change the lighting to better reflect the atmosphere in which they plan to wear the garment, says creative director and co-founder Rebecca Minkoff. (“SoHo after dark” is the current SoHo store favorite.) Additionally, merchandise is equipped with UHF RFID tags from Avery Dennison that allow dressing rooms to identify the merchandise when it is brought in, enabling the store not only to keep track of inventory in real time, but also to provide a better customer experience, says CEO and co-founder Uri Minkoff. From inside the dressing room, a customer can find out, for example, what other sizes and colors are available in the store, or receive recommendations about complementary items, he says. Shoppers can also take their entire “fitting room” with them via the Rebecca Minkoff iOS mobile app, adding to their own personal profiles, while each store associate is equipped with a mobile companion app to the fitting room and connected wall, which gives them full insight into customer requests, product details, and inventory across channels so that they can quickly and easily provide assistance to customers. It also integrates into the mobile POS, so that they can streamline the checkout process. After they leave the store, shoppers can return merchandise easily across all channels and learn more about products they interacted with in the store; that same trail of information is also available to Rebecca Minkoff, which can now collect information in-store about what customers browse, try on and buy, just as they do online. Sounds like a dream come true for the retailer, too. — Jordan K. Speer Dragon Crowd Garment Inc. www.dragon-crowd.com | Costa Mesa, Calif. NOMINATED BY: Self n many Asian cultures, dragons — those mythical serpentine fire-breathing creatures — often are renowned for their wisdom and longevity, and it’s just those two qualities that have informed Dragon Crowd’s rapid evolution from its traditional apparel manufacturing roots into a vertically integrated, WRAP-certified producer of young men’s and women’s apparel that now boasts a thriving research and development operation. It takes a healthy dose of wisdom to think outside I the box, choose the road less traveled and make differentiation from the competition a top priority — all important ingredients for a lengthy and productive showing in a notoriously cutthroat and corner-cutting industry. “We asked our current customers, what could we do above and beyond the scope of what we currently deliver as a company?” says Jeff Marshall, marketing director for Dragon Crowd, which operates four factories producing 1.8 million www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2015 9 TOP INNOVATORS units monthly and owns three fabric mills, two for knits and one for wovens. “Across the board they asked for more fabrics, more design, more innovation through manufacturing.” Founded in 1998 by Edward Zhou in Ningbo, China, the company now has offices in Hong Kong, New York City and Costa Mesa, Calif., and employs more than 3,000 staff, including more than a dozen full-time associates in southern California who are developing innovative apparel silhouettes, new wearable fabrics and post processes. “As a partner and stakeholder in the success of our clients’ business, we have made it our mission to forecast and identify trends, anticipate client needs and customer desires, and deliver goods to satisfy those needs and desires,” Marshall explains. Those clients include household names such as Nordstrom, Urban Outfitters, Vans and Oakley, and with California’s status as a hotbed of creative innovation, access to these R&D associates has proven to be fruitful for Dragon Crowd. “The research and development strategy provides 100 to 200 new fabrics monthly, quarterly trend-right men’s and women’s styles guides, and a constant flow of new garment styles and silhouettes,” Marshall says of the new team, which travels across the globe searching for innovative fabrics, creative fabric post-processing approaches, unique washes, interesting trims, and novel ideas in garment construction techniques. Dragon Crowd produces a swatch booklet for clients to review the latest fabric innovations, and the manufacturer has also created an accompanying “vibe booklet” that aims to provide inspiration for key apparel pieces relevant to trends in the marketplace, an approach that Marshall refers to as “innovation for inspiration.” While company president J. Spencer is fond of quoting the classic film Dirty Harry — “A man’s got to know his limitations,” says Clint Eastwood’s Harry Callahan — Dragon Crowd seemingly has found a winning formula doing what it does best, a strategy that resonates with clients to the tune of more than $125 million in annual sales. And happy employees are a big part of the company’s “good business” plan; workers get a fair wage and factories shut down promptly at 5 p.m. The oldest facility, Rock Maui, was constructed in 2008; the newest, Rock Guangming and Rock Bay, opened just last year. — Jessica Binns Aerosoles Edison, N.J. | www.aerosoles.com NOMINATED BY: CGS Inc. | www.cgsinc.com erosoles has been practically synonymous with “comfortable footwear” for more than 25 years. The company has grown to include the what’s what, A2 and aerology brands over the years, in addition to the flagship Aerosoles brand, all of which are distinguished by the company’s signature diamond-patterned soles. In many ways, Aerosoles has been ahead of the retail pack; the company has been in the omnichannel fulfillment game for more than a decade, says Tom Reeve, vice president of technology and business solutions. E-commerce orders have been filled from stores in addition to ware- A 10 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com houses, allowing the retailer to leverage inventory in all available channels to meet SKU-level demand. However, as business expanded to include 120 company-operated stores in the United States in addition to franchises in 15 countries throughout Europe and Asia, offprice, and direct-to-consumer channels, Aerosoles needed an ERP that could evolve along with a rapidly changing environment. Its highly customized legacy ERP platform offered limited automation of order management functions, wasn’t readily scalable, and relied heavily on internal staff for support and development. TOP INNOVATORS Two years ago Aerosoles made the switch to the BlueCherry Infinity ERP platform from CGS. Reeve says the first year was spent refining order and inventory processes. “As the dot-com business has been experiencing double digit growth, we’ve needed to adjust and enhance EDI and accounts receivable processes to keep pace with the increased volumes of single-unit order processing,” he explains. BlueCherry also has been helpful with fulfilling orders captured from Aerosoles’ partner sites. “We utilize BlueCherry to fulfill these orders using a virtual warehouse strategy to match the order to inventory regardless of which channel (e.g., wholesale, retail, e-commerce) has the inventory ownership,” says Reeve, who credits the ERP platform for allowing Aerosoles to maintain system performance and reliability during a 30 percent increase in order line volume. Aerosoles also recently rolled out a new responsive-design e-commerce experience created by Digital Management Inc. that offers a consistent look and feel across devices and yielded the retailer’s highest single-day sales on Cyber Monday last year. “During the past year, we’ve seen the percentage of consumers accessing our web- site from mobile and tablet devices grow to over 35 percent,” Reeve notes. “Our new e-commerce platform will evolve to support buy online/pickup in-store, but in addition to e-commerce/store system integration, this will require processes and store design to evolve. “Our first step will be to direct consumers to the nearest store that has their size in the style and color they are seeking,” he concludes. — Jessica Binns in the pink Boston, MA | shop.inthepinkonline.com NOMINATED BY: Self ou probably already know the story of how Lilly Pulitzer®’s bold, vibrant, “spill-proof” designs got their start: To disguise the inevitable juice stains that came from running her own juice stand in Palm Beach, Fla., Pulitzer had a sleeveless dress made from a colorfully printed cotton fabric. The rest is history. That was around 1959. Fast forward to 1995, when a conversation with an old school friend gave Gordon and Sandra Russell an idea: to bring Lilly Pulitzer's brilliant designs directly to Nantucket island, where “resort living, happy times and wearing Lilly Pulitzer” already went hand in hand. They shared their thoughts with Lilly herself over dinner in Palm Beach. Thus was born in the pink, a chain of Lilly Pulitzer Premier Signature stores located throughout Massachusetts. Lilly Pulitzer prints should make their wearers feel happy — and so should the customer experience. To do this, in the pink made the decision to get rid of its cash registers and counters, replacing them with mobile POS to transform its eight locations. “We thought that by removing the physical cash register we could maximize merchandising and floor space, better serve customers and ultimately increase sales,” says Emily Evans, district manager. The company chose Springboard Retail, a cloud POS and retail management platform — a solution that Gordon Russell and co-founder Jay Stotz actually developed themselves in 2010 for in the pink when they were unable to find anything on the market that suited their needs. (Springboard was officially launched to the market in January 2014 at the NRF show.) in the pink first piloted Springboard’s mobile POS in its flagship Newbury Street location in Boston. After deconstructing its cash registers, the store reclaimed 48 square feet of its 1,250 feet for selling space and ease of movement. Mobile carts and a kiosk on wheels “allowed for a more fluid customer service,” said Evans. Y 3in the pink Boston store before cash wrap was removed and replaced with mobile POS 6Boston store after, with floor space freed up for merchandising By removing the cash wrap, the retailer was able to acquire more selling real estate and improve merchandising strategies. “We run a high-pressure, highly seasonal business in many of our stores, with 75 percent of total business being transacted between Memorial Day and Labor Day,” says Evans. With Springboard’s POS, sales instantly increased and have continued to climb. Approximately 41 days after implementing mobile POS in its Newbury Street location, in the pink saw sales increase by 60 percent. The typical increase for the same seasonal period year over year is 43 percent. Transaction volume and total units per transaction also improved.4 www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2015 11 TOP INNOVATORS “There’s a lot of product and five fitting rooms squeezed into 1,250 square feet. We found that where the cash wrap was, on the right side as soon as a customer enters, was prime selling real estate,” said Evans. Because of the excellent results from its flagship store, in the pink decided to roll the solution out to its other stores. The company started with its stores on Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard, and immediately saw benefits in increased sales. After rolling out mPOS in all stores, the company saw a 23 percent increase in same-store sales in 2014 compared to the same period a year prior. In addition to increased sales, since demolishing the cash wraps, the stores have seen great improvement in terms of physical flow. The store is more comfortable and allows for greater efficiency, and customers linger longer because the space is not so tight, says Evans. The mobile devices have enabled store associates to move more freely around the store themselves, while also giving them real- time access to customer history and store inventory across the chain, at their fingertips. This allows for more engaging and relevant conversations with customers, and the ability to quickly meet their needs. A sales associate can, for example, recommend an item based on the top categories of product the customer has purchased previously, or easily reserve a product at another location. “Because the solution is web-based, an alert will pop up in the other store alerting that team to pull the product off the floor, capture the funds and ship the product to the customer. Similarly our team can quickly update customers about product that is on purchase order,” says Evan. The iPads are also great for line busting, she says. The platform’s ability to offer emailed vs. printed receipts is another helpful feature — 93 percent of customers are opting for the former — saving time, money and trees. — Jordan K. Speer Lands’ End Business Outfitters Dodgeville, Wis. | business.landsend.com NOMINATED BY: Self lthough Lands’ End Business Outfitters has been providing uniforms to small and large-sized businesses since 1993, recently it recognized a gap in its offerings: “We did not offer a complete line of true work wear — clothing designed for those doing the hard jobs, such as construction workers and mechanics,” says Christine Hess, divisional merchandise manager. “In short, the people who do the real dirty work.” “While our line contained items such as our performance twill shirts and active polos, we knew we had to be able to offer headto-toe options,” says Hess. “We took into account all the situations workers might encounter, and made sure we were covering them with clothing that would handle stains and rough treatment, incorporate as many functional features as we could and provide them with garments ready to take into any climate, from mid-summer heat waves to polar-vortex cold snaps,” she says. Thus was born the Work Wear Collection. The first product out of the gate was a better work pant made from a durable polyester/cotton that resists wrinkles and that incorporated the company’s exclusive Iron Knee® technology — a tough poly- A 12 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com ester layer sandwiched between two layers of fabric to produce a hidden interlining — and a Stay Tucked waistband to keep shirts tucked in and neat. The pants are sewn using a safety-stitching technique for seams that hold up through years of wear, says Hess. It tapped the workhorse fabric of work wear — heavy cotton duck — for a hooded jacket and long jacket to supplement its already existing outerwear collection of Squall jackets and parkas, using the dense canvas to make a snag- and abrasionresistant shell that also features a DWR finish for shedding water. Both jackets also feature 100-gram insulation in a quilted lining for warmth, and plenty of pockets. On the lightweight side, the company introduced the Wind Shirt and Storm Shirt, made from wind- and water-resistant microfiber combined with a mesh lining to deliver warmth and breathability, while it rounded out the collection with its Thermaskin™ base layers as well as its Thermacheck 100 fleece and Textured Fleece half-zips, designed to go underneath all other garments and creating a true layering system that workers can use as needed to keep them comfortable in the coldest of climates. In other innovations from the division, the company launched its new Per- TOP INNOVATORS fect Dress Shirt, which it developed in response to what it learned from outreach to customers: that they wanted better fit and greater comfort. One of its defining features is the new Comfort Collar, which uses an elastic tab to give the top button the ability to stretch out. “You’ll never feel like your collar is too tight,” says Hess. Lands’ End also reworked the sleeve construction by raising the arm opening, which provides a greater range of motion and ease of movement. For the women’s shirt the company also added a patented, hidden, No Gape™ button technology to fix the problem of “gape at the bust” which they were frustrated by. “It makes most women self-conscious and can be an unnecessary distraction,” said Hess. “Then, we reworked the length — long enough to stay perfectly tucked in, or effortlessly untucked if you choose,” she adds. Both men’s and women’s designs offer advanced fabric treatments and finishes that offer cleanliness, comfort and conve- nience. The inside collar and cuffs are treated with a stain-release finish, while its very popular easy-care fabric blend now features an advanced Coolest Comfort™ finish to help the fabric breathe in the heat by wicking moisture away and drying quickly. “We’ve even saved you time getting ready in the morning because this shirt comes out of the dryer needing little to no ironing, thanks to the wrinkle-resistant treatment,” concludes Hess. — Jordan K. Speer Chico’s Fort Myers, Fla. | www.chicosfas.com NOMINATED BY: Tyco Retail Solutions | www.tycoretailsolutions.com ou’ve just found the perfect lace bra and you want the matching panties, but you can’t find them in your size. Also, you’re not sure if the fit of the bra is correct, and you’d like some guidance, but there’s no one available to help you, because the associates are busy helping other customers search for garments in the appropriate size, which may no longer be in inventory, or which previous customers have not returned to their correct spots. You don’t want the bra without the panties, and you don’t have any more time to wait, so you put the bra back where you found it — or maybe you just set it down wherever you are, one more ‘lost’ SKU in a sea of very small, widely varied items — and leave without making a purchase. This is a nightmare scenario for any retailer, and one that Soma Intimates is working to avoid. Launched in 2004 as part of the Chico’s FAS portfolio, Soma is focused on providing beautiful, sensual intimate apparel, as well as warm personalized customer service, and, like most retailers, it is striving to keep its customers coming back by better serving their needs. That requires a good handle on inventory, and a deepening engagement with store associates. At Soma, associates previously did not have the insight into inventory that they needed. The retailer had been conducting inventory counts infrequently, and when it did, the process was costly and disruptive to the daily business, said Ken Silay, former director, technology research and innovation. Also, with relatively few physical inventory counts, accuracy could, and often did, steadily decline over the months until the next inventory count. Accordingly, confidence in store inventory numbers declined. Because intimate apparel is heavily style-, size- and colororiented, keeping a full assortment always available on the sales floor is extremely labor intensive, said Silay. Soma’s replenishment process was difficult in large part because sales associates lacked visibility into inventory both on the floor and in Y the back room. The contents of shipments received were a mystery until each box was opened, which added to the challenge of finding what customers wanted in a timely manner. To compound the problem, sales associates were losing valuable time searching for inventory when they could have been helping customers, he said. To get a handle on its inventory accuracy and visibility challenges, Soma turned to Tyco Retail Solutions’ TrueVUE solution, embarking on an RFID pilot project in 13 out of its 250+ Soma stores. The goal was to achieve an accurate item-level inventory foundation. From there, Soma would be better able to achieve visibility from the manufacturer to the store, and from the sales associate to the customer. The solution focused on a variety of inventory management processes including weekly cycle counting, store receiving, daily sales-floor replenishment and product location assistance for replenishment and customer service.4 www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2015 13 TOP INNOVATORS At each of the stores in the program, readers have been placed at the back and front of the store. Tags are read in the backroom when merchandise arrives — eliminating the need to open boxes to identify their contents — read again after merchandise moves to the sales floor, and read a third time at point of sale, and quantities are adjusted accordingly in the system. Both store personnel and company management can view inventory levels to determine what items need to be reordered or replenished on the sales floor. Item-level RFID is providing sales associates with accurate, real-time inventory information in one place, which enables them to better manage Soma’s deep merchandise assortment, drive increased sales and, with more confidence in inventory accuracy, ensure shopper satisfaction. By incorporating RFID reads into backend systems weekly, rather than monthly or bi-annually, Chico’s FAS, Inc. can improve the flow of inventory from the distribution center to the store and streamline the replenishment process. Soma has improved inventory accuracy to 95 percent, including full-store inventory count, and the increased visibility into daily shipment receipts has reduced out-of-stocks, said Silay. That customer looking for the matching panties? Well, now that’s not a problem. Soma is also using the technology to quickly find products in the store that customers are unable to locate, or to track down merchandise requested from another Soma store. With a high level of visibility into inventory in each store, Soma is achieving a much higher level of customer satisfaction — and higher sales. — Jordan K. Speer Timberland Stratham, N.H. | www.timberland.com NOMINATED BY: Omni United USA | www.omni-united.com and Promoboxx | www.promoboxx.com ou might say Timberland has really put the rubber to the road lately — literally and figuratively. The outdoor heritage brand, owned by VF Corp., is innovating across product and marketing in a way that draws customers to its brand while (or perhaps because of) focusing on its mission to do well by doing good. Hitting the Road with Timberland Tires: In November, Timberland announced a partnership with tire company Omni United to create a more sustainable lifecycle for rubber whereby fewer tires end up in landfills and less virgin rubber gets used in footwear, says Margaret Morey-Reuner, director of strategic partnerships and business development, Timberland. “Timberland Tires represent a new model in tire innovation: a sustainable, tire-to-shoe lifecycle,” she says. The tires, made in the United States and positioned at the premium end of the market, are designed and created for superior performance and safety on the road, using a rubber formulation that is appropriate for recycling. At the end of their useful life as tires, they will take on a second life as part of the outsole of a Timberland boot or shoe, rather than ending up in landfills. (You can read about this, and other interesting footwear partnerships, in the April issue of Apparel.) The use of recycled rubber from Timberland Tires is just the most recent in mate- Y 14 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com rials innovation for the company, and goes hand in hand with its goal to reduce the environmental impacts of doing business. In 2013, for example, 70 percent of all Timberland footwear shipped incorporated recycled, organic or renewable materials; the company has also given more than 128 million plastic bottles a new life through the use of recycled PET in its footwear, says Morey-Reuner. A Journey with Hazel Highway: In other non-traditional marketing approaches for the company, last fall also saw the launch of an interesting social media campaign around its new Hazel Highway Collection, which features four classic Timberland silhouettes inspired by the original leather used in 1979 to build the first Super Boot, an iconic style for the brand. The campaign tells the story of a journey down I-95, capturing the industrial roots and rustic heritage of the Timberland brand along the way. To get the word out to both its retail customers and end consumers, Timberland created a wide variety of social posts from which its dichotomous retailer base — ranging from outdoor to urban based retailers — could choose, says Cassie Heppner, director of North America wholesale marketing, Timberland. To facilitate the process of sharing assets, Timberland worked with Promoboxx, a brand-to-retail marketing platform that enables its clients to launch online campaigns and share directly with their retail partners. “We created a range of targeted content for the Hazel Highway campaign, which was made available through Promoboxx’s digital marketing platform,” says Heppner. “Retailers who access Timberland’s content through Promoboxx utilized the share functionality to select and push content out to their social channels. Whether retailers wanted to post images of the boot in an urban or rural setting, focus on the limited availability of the product, or show the detail TOP INNOVATORS of its leather, there were plenty of options that met their marketing needs,” she said. Another challenge for the company was reaching new audiences, as well as online followers. To do this, Timberland enabled Promoboxx’s Match incentive program. The program rewards retailers for taking action within the platform (sharing the campaign on Facebook, Twitter, etc.) with local mobile ads, says Heppner. These ads, using geotargeting technology, appear on customers’ phones and tablets, simultaneously pro- moting Hazel Highway and the nearby retailer, while driving in-store traffic. Within less than a month of launching the program, Timberland received more than 1.3 million impressions and a .35 percent click rate, which Heppner reports is well above the industry average of about .25 percent. “We could tell retailers loved the mobile ads,” said Heppner, “because when Timberland mentioned the new incentive in their emails to retailers, the email open rate reached 81 percent, blowing out our email open rates for previous campaigns.” “By launching targeted content, as well as incentivizing retailers to share our campaign via a new local mobile channel, we succeeded not only in appealing to Timberland’s broad retailer base, but also in reaching new customers and driving traffic in-store,” she concluded. — Jordan K. Speer Vestagen Technical Textiles Inc. Orlando, Fla. | www.vestagen.com | vestexprotects.com NOMINATED BY: Self he recent cases of Ebola among medical professionals here in the United States and the ongoing struggle to combat the virus in Africa are a stark reminder of just how important appropriate procedures and protective wear can be when you’re dealing with a life-threatening disease. That’s not news to Vestagen Technical Textiles. In February 2014, the company obtained the exclusive global medical textile rights to three patented technologies and applied all three technologies to one fabric, creating VESTEX®, a fabric that is simultaneously fluid repellent, antimicrobial and breathable. In fact, VESTEX has been clinically proven 1 to reduce the acquisition and retention of pathogens on the fabric. Why stop there? After all, healthcare is the fastest growing sector of the U.S. economy, employing more than 18 million workers. Last June, Vestagen decided to manufacture VESTEX, under the myGuardian™ brand, into healthcare worker apparel, seeing the benefits it could provide in protecting nurses from the body fluid exposures they regularly encounter. Research documenting the effectiveness and safety of VESTEX includes a study performed in a hospital setting which showed a 99.99 percent reduction of methicillinresistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) on VESTEX uniforms compared to traditional non-protective uniforms, both at the beginning and end of the work shift 1. T “Healthcare is among the most dangerous jobs in the U.S. because workers don’t know what has colonized their patients. Additionally, splashes or splatters of a patient’s blood and body fluids are a reality of healthcare delivery,” says Uncas “Ben” B. Favret III, CEO of Vestagen. VESTEX is also available for licensing so that other manufacturers can obtain the technology for healthcare workers, as well as for people in other fields who need similar protection. Recently, the largest online retailer of scrub apparel, allheart.com, launched its own line of scrubs with VESTEX Protection. By creating VESTEX, Vestagen also created a new product category, “Active Barrier Apparel,” says Favret. The active barrier refers to combined effect of the fluid repellency, which keeps fluids from reaching the skin and undergarments, with an antimicrobial, which kills the germs left behind, he says. For scenarios in which there is anticipated risk of exposure, such as procedures occurring in the operating room, healthcare workers wear Personal Protective Equipment, or PPE, which includes full body suits. However, there are many more scenarios in which there is an unknown level of risk. Active Barrier Apparel filled what Favret says was a “gap in protection” for healthcare workers. Since the launch of its healthcare worker apparel, the company has added patient apparel with VESTEX protection, under the myComfort™ brand. Most recently, the company launched scrubs that are specially designed for operating room (OR) staff, made with tightly woven, 100 percent polyester to limit lint shedding, and wicking WarpDry™ technology to ensure breathability and wearer comfort throughout what are often very long OR procedures. The new OR scrubs joined the full line of protective healthcare worker lab coats and scrubs under the myGuardian™ brand. The ultimate goal is to offer healthcare workers and patients protection from germs — as well as peace of mind, Favret concludes. — Jordan K. Speer 1 Bearman GM, Rosato A, Elam K, et al. A crossover trial of antimicrobial scrubs to reduce methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus burden on healthcare worker apparel. Infect Control Hosp. Epidemiol. 2012;33:268–275. www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2015 15 TOP INNOVATORS Garmatex Technologies Inc. Vancouver, BC | www.garmatex.com NOMINATED BY: Self t’s a sweltering day and you’re on the 17th hole. You’d give anything for someone to dump a bucket of ice over your head right about now — anything to cool you off so you can focus on your swing. Enter IceSkin™, the most recent launch from Garmatex, whose developments in scientifically-engineered performance fabrics and apparel technologies include AbsorbSkin™, SlimSkin™ and StellSkin™. IceSkin was launched in late 2014 to help wearers function in extreme heat. How does it work? The technology uses natural jade minerals to provide non-stop cooling to the wearer. “IceSkin™ is engineered to react with water in multiple stages,” says Bill Gardiner, executive vice president of sales and marketing. “When IceSkin™ comes into contact with water molecules, the fibers evaporate the liquid at a highly accelerated pace. During this rapid process, water molecules are cooled as they travel through the fibers into lofty chambers embedded with jade. The natural jade minerals work as a conduit, absorbing the chilled water and perpetuating the cooling temperature until the fabric is dry.” With technology in hand, Garmatex then launched its own branded IceSkin Gear towels and headwear accessories. “Our IceSkin towel can go from 185° F to 65° F in 15 to 20 seconds with the cooling lasting as long as the towel is wet and waved through the air to encourage circulation,” says Gardiner. Like all of Garmatex’s fabrics, IceSkin is engineered through its proprietary “moisture system transference” (MST) process, to support excellent moisture management control, and embedded I fiber technology — a multi-layered, three-dimensional knitting method that ensures permanent performance features for the life of the garment, according to the company. IceSkin is also equipped with Garmatex’s Bact-Out®, a 100 percent natural antimicrobial treatment that is 99 percent effective in reducing the bacteria that cause odors. Additionally, in February, the company launched its firstever Kickstarter campaign to introduce its bespoke sports performance posture shirt, Prime4orm™, to the market. The Prime4orm shirt uses gentle tensions to re-engineer the body’s form via highly technical construction that gradually realigns your muscles for better posture. — Jordan K. Speer Acustom Apparel New York, N.Y. | www.acustom.com NOMINATED BY: Self amal Motlagh is a snazzy dresser and a tall man, and back in his Harvard Business School days he wanted clothes — all types of apparel, not just suits — customized to both his style and fit. But, as we all know, custom-designed apparel doesn’t come cheap. “I began to wonder why we weren’t able to affordably customize our clothing in both fit and style,” says Motlagh. He began to look for a better way. He was, after all, in business school. Thus was born the idea of Acustom Apparel, founded in 2011. Motlagh teamed up with COO and co-founder Charles Tse, the brains behind Acustom’s “digital bespoke” patternmaking technology. Tse, like Motlagh, was frustrated with his inability to find well-fitting ready-to-wear clothing, and equally frustrated with the cost of buying custom-made clothing.4 J www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2015 17 TOP INNOVATORS Motlagh and Tse looked around the market to find a solution that would allow for large-scale customization, but nothing seemed to match what they were looking for. So they developed it themselves, figuring out a method of creating patterns that are unique to every customer, and then writing software to automate the process. The result is a system that uses 3D body scanners and the company’s own “digital bespoke” software to make purchasing custom clothing easier — and less expensive — for guys. The solution gathers 2 million data points to create a unique 3D body model for each customer, and then lets its digital bespoke algorithms go to work on those measurements. Everything is thus customfitted to the customer, who also helps in the design process, making choices about features such as fabric for shirt collars and cuffs, or whether or not to have peak lapels vs. notch. Acustom not only offers traditional custom suits and shirts, but also makes bespoke-fit products such as jeans, chinos, cords, overcoats, trench coats, shorts and polos. “This is a significant portion of the modern man’s wardrobe, all custom made at retail prices equivalent to [those of] Hugo Boss,” says Motlagh. Because Acustom’s technology allows it to create bespoke patterned garments without the traditional time and cost required by a master patternmaker, the company is able to offer its products at a fraction of the cost of traditional custom-tailored goods. “A few blocks away from our store, another retailer in New York City is offering bespoke jeans for $1200,” says Motlagh. Acustom is able to sell bespoke denim for only $235. “That’s the same price as a premiere pair of jeans in SOHO,” he quips. And let’s face it: Not too many people are willing to shell out $1,200 for a pair of jeans, which is why there is not the same type of market for custom denim as there is for custom suits. Acustom is working to change that. Beyond offering a custom fit, Acustom also has created a unique and innovative retail experience in SoHo — what it calls a “design bar” — that looks like a men’s boutique but only features design samples “to help clients imagine what their clothing will look like,” says Motlagh. “After finding something they like, clients can — in 20 minutes — custom design their products based on pre-designed samples, get scanned and be on their way to getting custom-made products. And once we have a clients’ measurements, it’s easy to reorder online or in store,” he says. Fit is guaranteed in everything. The small footprint of Acustom’s store allows it to provide a face-to-face customer service experience without the risks and costs associated with stocking inventory. “In our first year open, we are already well exceeding sales-per-square-foot averages of established stores in SoHo,” says Motlagh. Up next? The company is striving to provide more types of garments to its customers. Knits will launch soon with 100 percent cashmere sweaters in six base styles. Custom fit, of course. Are there any particular advantages to running a custom-fit apparel business? Let’s just put it this way: when Motlagh got married in March, you can rest assured that he and all of the guys at his wedding were looking pretty sharp. — Jordan K. Speer Betabrand San Francisco, Calif. | www.betabrand.com NOMINATED BY: Self any retailers talk about listening to their customers, but Betabrand has taken this to a whole new level. This is how it operates: 1. Rather than create its own collections, the online retailer actively solicits design ideas from its community as well as all of its internal employees (i.e. not just its four designers). 2. Customers submit designs to the “Think Tank” section of Betabrand’s website. 3. Betabrand solicits feedback in the form of votes as well as comments in sketch format. 4. If a new style receives enough votes, then a prototype is made and photographed as quickly as possible. 5. The style is posted on the website for Crowd Funding for 30 days. 6. A newsletter is emailed twice per week to alert fans of new styles under consideration. 7. If sufficient numbers of customers pre-order the style, then it is produced and shipped. 8. Ultimately, the customer “owns the story.” To be sure, Betabrand is not your grandmother’s clothing store. “There are no ‘collections,’ no ‘seasons,’ no pre-determined ‘merch mix’” to direct what you will wear, says Lana Hogue, director of product development and production. Getting the word out about Betabrand comes primarily from web publications and organic social media — and it often goes viral, says Hogue. There’s a lot of buzz around the brand, M 18 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com TOP INNOVATORS with a community that “loves to debate ‘Dress Pant Yoga Pants,’ ‘Black Sheep Sweaters,’ ‘Space Jackets,’ ‘Gay Jeans,’ and shirts with ‘Poo Emojis’ all over them,” says Hogue. Other popular designs have included Executive Hoodies (which came about in response to a particular company’s IPO), ‘Chef Jeans’ for Chris Cosentino, and an adult onesie designed by comedienne Margaret Cho. The earlier a customer funds a design, the greater the discount offered. After a style has been crowdfunded, it becomes available for sale — at full price — to others who want to get in on the action. To date, the Straight Leg/Gray Dress Pant Yoga Pant is the site’s most popular item ever: as of press time it had achieved 10,408 percent funding, since hitting 100 percent funding on Jan. 17, 2014. The company’s crowdfunding goal is to meet production minimums and fund the production. Betabrand produces enough inventory to cover its projected demand for about four to five months, says Hogue. Betabrand, founded by Chris Lindland in 2009 (prior to that it was called Cordarounds, which got its start in 2005), sells primarily online, but also has a flagship store at its San Francisco headquarters. Also awesome: 70 percent of Betabrand clothes are made in the United States (in San Francisco and Oakland), with the balance produced in China, Korea and Thailand. The Betabrand model really turns retailing on its head by putting the power of design and production decisions in the hands of the customer, while eliminating the challenge of forecasting demand, says Hogue. It also solves the problem of raising capital for manufacturing, as customers have paid for the cost of production before it even starts. “This is the future of the apparel industry,” she says. “I have worked in the garment industry for more than 25 years and for more than a dozen companies, both big and small. Betabrand is by far the most innovative company I have ever worked with,” she concludes. — Jordan K. Speer Mizuno Running Atlanta, Ga. | www.mizuno.com NOMINATED BY: Promoboxx | www.promoboxx.com an you name one thing that alone could potentially boost U.S. GDP by $25 billion, eliminate the smoking of more than 48 million cigarettes daily, decrease homelessness by 46 percent, increase earning potential by 10 percent and eliminate $143 billion in health care costs in the United States? Stumped? According to Mizuno, the answer is running. That’s the conclusion the 109-year-old company came to after it posed the question: “Can running really transform the world?” and then set out to find out, partnering with the University of North Carolina Kenan-Flager Business School to conduct a statistical analysis to determine how running can change the world in positive ways. Drawing on the thought-provoking statistics that resulted from its research, Mizuno then debuted its “What If Everybody Ran” campaign online in March 2014 to inspire consumers by demonstrating the potential power of running to transform lives, and society as a whole. Via social media, using the hashtag #IfEverybodyRan, Mizuno promoted the analysis results, including such gems as “7 billion more hours spent outside,” “63 million happier dogs,” “14 billion fewer hours spent online,” and “135 million more victory beers.” Findings from the analysis were promoted primarily online but the campaign also included an in-store component at independent running retailers across the United States. Using Promoboxx, a brand-to-retail digital marketing platform, Mizuno distributed digital content promoting #IfEverybodyRan to more than 300 of its retail customers across the country. C The platform enabled the specialty running shops to spread the #IfEverybodyRan message in their local communities through Facebook, Twitter, email and on their respective websites. Additionally, via the Mizuno Baton mobile app, consumers were able to transform the power of running into community action by promising to donate $1 for every mile run with the app to Back on My Feet, a nonprofit organization that helps those experiencing homelessness turn their lives around through running. (That 46 percent figure above? Not hypothetical. Since its founding in 2007, 46 percent of residential members (the homeless) have moved themselves forward with a job, a house, or both.) Via the app, the company raised more than $90,000 for the organization. During the initial launch month (March 2014), “Mizuno experienced 110 percent growth in U.S. unique visitors to its website compared to March 2013 traffic, its Facebook followers increased by more than 25 percent in the first two weeks following the launch of the campaign and Twitter engagement increased by 121 percent in March 2014 vs. February 2014,” says Kim Hoey, Mizuno USA’s running division brand marketing director.4 www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2015 19 TOP INNOVATORS If everybody ran, there could be 20 million more great grandmothers, 60 million more pounds of pasta eaten, 37 percent more smiles and 27 million more sunrises viewed per week. “It all starts with one more run,” says Hoey. Last month, the company launched its 2015 campaign, “Every Mile Changes You,” which evolves the “What if Everybody Ran” campaign in its goal to inspire more running across the nation. The campaign will continue to support Back on My Feet, and also will provide running apparel and shoes to a group of military vet- erans called “The Shepherd’s Men.” This team will be running 911 miles in eight days to raise funds and awareness for SHARE Military Initiative, which provides free individualized treatment and counseling to veterans struggling with traumatic brain injury and post-traumatic stress disorder suffered during the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan since 2001. — Jordan K. Speer Kathmandu Christchurch, New Zealand | www.kathmandu.co.nz NOMINATED BY: JustEnough | www.justenough.com ounded 25 years ago, Kathmandu has grown from a small retailer of outdoor clothing and equipment to “a global brand that designs trusted outdoor gear so our customers can live their dreams of travel and adventure,” says CIO Jolann Van Dyk. Paying attention to customer demand has helped Kathmandu grow into a vertically-integrated business that operates 158 stores across New Zealand, Australia and the United Kingdom, and a growing e-commerce channel. With an eye on expansion, the company is scoping out international markets such as North America and Europe. Not long ago, it became evident that existing legacy systems were no longer able to deliver against its business growth strategies, said CIO Jolann Van Dyk. “Systems were either too slow, required significant time and effort to perform basic day-to-day tasks, [were] rigid, unsupported or just antiquated.” More specifically, these solutions didn’t support systemized forecasting and planning. Historically, the company managed these processes on multiple Excel spreadsheets, which required manual revisions that were almost impossible to keep synchronized across disparate spreadsheets. It was a time-intensive and inefficient process that lacked the functionality needed to manage an increasingly global company. During a routine business planning session, listening to the strategic objectives of executives from each business area, it became clear that the company’s current business systems could not deliver against their requirements, Van Dyk recalled. With an eye on assortment range planning, Kathmandu began its search for a technology partner. The company sought a system that would reduce the risks associated with forecasting and planning knowledge, deliver timeliness of data entry and availability, and manage accurate information so that the retailer could make informed business decisions. From an architecture standpoint, it wanted a stable environment with limited required configurations and modifications; the system also had to align with the chain’s best practices. Kathmandu found its ideal solution from JustEnough, Irvine, Calif. The solution’s functionality, including having all data in a F 20 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com centralized location, was a very attractive feature. Its status as a Microsoft independent software vendor (ISV) partner was also a plus, as all future versions of the product will integrate with Microsoft Dynamics AX enterprise resources planning software, which will streamline upgrades. Kathmandu added the hosted infrastructure-as-a-service (IAAS) cloud-based platform in phases. For example, the assortment planning tool went live in September 2013, followed by item planning in January 2014, and allocations and replenishment in October 2014. Already, Kathmandu has gained better visibility of its operating stock requirements, which is leading to better planning practices around assortment range planning, option count and product lifecycle, says Van Dyk. “Our planners also have more information available to make more informed decisions.” Van Dyk noted that one of the biggest results the chain has achieved is a significant reduction in overall stock holdings; insights provided by the solution enable it to purchase smarter, he says. Its full-speed-ahead momentum continues, as the company looks to achieve better space management and just-in-time replenishment, with architecture that can better manage stock throughput and add boundaries to deal with out-of-stock exceptions, rather than having to troll through all data and traffic to understand product movement. More immediately, the company is focused on embedding its new core business systems and unlocking the next stage in business capability, Van Dyk concluded. — Deena M. Amato-McCoy TOP INNOVATORS Under Armour Baltimore, Md. | www.underarmour.com NOMINATED BY: SPS Commerce | www.spscommerce.com altimore-based athletic performance apparel upstart Under Armour has a knack for spotting talent, as evidenced by its long sponsor relationship with current golf darling Jordan Spieth — whose masterful (pun intended) performance at the Masters last month propelled the brand into the consciousness of millions of fans and amateur players alike. Under Armour has made no secret of its desire to catch up to dominant rivals such as Nike, whose approximate $20 billion annual revenue is something the Baltimore brand can only dream of at the moment. As Bill Nienberg, Under Armour's vice president of global merchandise and sales planning, said last year, "We're a $10-billion brand that just happens to be doing $2 billion of business." It’s also no secret that Under Armour loves to use technology to its advantage, not just in creating industry-leading (and headline-grabbing) apparel innovations but in embracing software platforms that make a tangible difference in corporate operations — and the bottom line. An SPS Commerce POS reporting customer since 2005, Under Armour used data from its top retail partners to gain actionable insights into sales information by a host of attributes, from store and style to color and size. For a while this approach helped the brand’s sales team identify new opportunities and become more collaborative with retailers, analyzing metrics such as weeks of supply, sales-to-stock ratio, sell-through rates and inventory turnover. As growth exploded, however, Under Armour upgraded to SPS’ more robust Enterprise Analytics platform, which now is used by 90 employees in the sales, product development and planning B teams to deliver and analyze weekly sales recap reports, vendor report cards using each retailer’s particular metrics, new store sales performance, and trend reports for key categories. “With our SPS solution, buyers are more inclined to trust and act on our recommendations when we provide the data to support them,” said Caryn Hall, retail planner for Under Armour. “The POS solution from SPS Commerce allowed our sales staff to discover opportunities to grow our business,” added Hall. “As a result, we were able to quickly switch gears and utilize only reports generated from SPS to monitor our sales performance.” Hall credits the analytics platform for boosting sell-through by store, style and color and maximizing business in high-performing areas as sales staff has leveraged insights to improve product placement. “We have been able to share our selling reports and analysis with our retail partners,” she adds. “This analysis helps facilitate business conversations as we partner together to grow our business.” — Jessica Binns Koos Manufacturing South Gate, Calif. | www.koos.com Gerber Technology www.gerbertechnology.com | www.yunique.com NOMINATED BY: echnology can close a whole host of gaps these days; new advancements enable far-flung design teams to share ideas across the globe and view fabrics and inspiration ideas remotely, but there’s nothing quite like touching and feeling a sample churned out in as little as a single day by the company right across town. That’s the beauty of committing to domestic production, according to Soo-Jin Behrstock, CIO for Koos Manufacturing, headquartered in South Gate, Calif., just seven miles from downtown L.A. Though American Apparel usually gets all of the “vertically integrated” buzz, Koos is one of those rare apparel companies where design, cutting, sewing, washing and finishing are all per- T www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2015 21 TOP INNOVATORS formed under one roof (it’s the only such integrated jeans facility on the West Coast, Behrstock points out). Headcount stands at more than 850, the company produces more than 2 million units annually, and sales for 2014 reached about $150 million. Founder Yul Ku grew up in a family with a strong apparel manufacturing background and launched the company 35 years ago, initially producing denim for brands such as Calvin Klein, Gap and Lucky. Eventually Ku stepped away from the private-label business to partner with Adriano Goldschmied and launch the AG Adriano Goldschmied brand in 2000, entering into an exclusive license business for the Big Star brand three years later. “Made in the USA is something that we support in a significant way, as evidenced by most of the AG-branded denim being manufactured entirely in Los Angeles,” says Berhstock, who notes that the company values supporting the local community and keeping jobs in the United States. “Koos obviously has to operate leaner in order to compensate for the higher cost of labor in the U.S.,” she continues. “However, our overriding objective of delivering the highest quality product necessitates that we directly control our manufacturing processes locally rather than use overseas labor.” A Gerber Technology customer for more than 20 years, Koos is migrating from WebPDM to YuniquePLM, which will integrate nicely with the software company’s AccuMark pattern design platform. “The data on material yields and points of measure from Accumark will be used to generate costing and product tech packs for our Yunique PLM users,” Behrstock explains. “By having a L.L. Bean Freeport, Maine | www.llbean.com NOMINATED BY: Kalypso | www.kalypso.com ne can only wonder what outdoorsman and entrepreneur Leon Leonwood Bean would think about the “lumberjack chic” teen trend that’s driving eye-popping sales of the iconic handcrafted leather and rubber boots his eponymous company L.L Bean has been famous for since he brainstormed them in 1912 to put an end to cold, damp feet on hunting excursions. In fiscal year 2014 the Freeport, Maine, outdoor apparel company posted annual net revenue of $1.61 billion, up 3 percent year over year, and manufactured 450,000 pairs of Bean boots. This year L.L Bean landed the no. 5 spot on Forbes’ Best Employers list, leading all companies in the apparel, footwear and sporting goods vertical. Known for its catalog mail-order business, the company is steadily expanding its brick-and-mortar footprint from a current fleet of 22 stores outside of Maine to 100 by 2020, according to Carolyn Beem, public affairs manager. Four store openings are on tap for 2015, the first of which took place in March in Cleveland — the retailer’s first physical foray into Ohio. E-commerce is also doing well; web sales jumped 7 percent last year. O 22 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com tight integration between Accumark, Gerber cutting and Yunique PLM, redundant work will be eliminated and errors that often occur between creative and development teams will be minimized. “We hope to streamline product development processes, enhance productivity and create a more effective design environment,” she adds. Anticipating that the migration would be a significant change for employees, Koos took pains to minimize confusion around the new system and also to encourage workers to take ownership of it. In-house training was also a new endeavor for Koos, so the company decided that brief, 30-minute sessions on targeted topics would be the most successful approach. “This minimized employee downtime from their job responsibilities and increased their ability to retain the information that was presented to them,” Behrstock says. Koos is also undertaking this year an Oracle JD Edwards EnterpriseOne implementation that will be tightly integrated with YuniquePLM, Accumark and Retail Pro POS. Beyond technology, Koos is also on the hunt for innovation on the material side of the business, partnering with mills to engineer new fabrics and proprietary washes. “Environmentally friendly practices are also extremely important to the company,” says Behrstock, “and we continue to demonstrate our commitment to being responsible and sustainable with biodegradable chemicals and energy-saving equipment.” — Jessica Binns TOP INNOVATORS L.L Bean likely wouldn’t be in its current position without its legendary commitment to customer service, including a 100 percent satisfaction guarantee — a rare promise in the apparel world. Despite dramatic changes throughout the years, from rapidly evolving technology to changing consumer tastes and management mandates to new product ideas, the company’s emphasis to service has never wavered. “Customer service is not just a department but a commitment we all share,” says Beem. Indeed, J.D. Power and Associates honored L.L. Bean as achieving “Highest Customer Satisfaction Among Apparel Retailers” in 2012. L.L. Bean’s confidence in its products stems in large part from its strong supplier relationships, some of which span decades, according to Beem, who says the company looks for partners that share the same corporate values. This exclusive number of stable partnerships with select mills and suppliers both large and small enables L.L. Bean to collaborate on fabric development and create innovative new products such as Ultralight down outerwear and packable down apparel. What’s more, treating these crucial partners as “part of the family” means the apparel company need not spend countless hours hassling over supplier negotiations. This focus on and passion for product quality led L.L. Bean to partner about 12 months ago with consulting services provider Kalypso, which is offering expert assistance with a PLM implementation. “We were seeking ways to streamline our processes while maintaining a clear focus on research and development and most importantly, product quality,” notes Beem. “Kalypso works with many other respected clients who have a broad array of products. Since we have similar challenges, we felt Kalypso’s capabilities would serve us well in our endeavors to maintain a focus on product quality while collaboratively facilitating innovation.” While Beem says it’s too soon to measure the results of the PLM deployment, L.L. Bean is pleased with the robust tools that have been developed, which will be instrumental in ensuring seamless collaboration with internal and external teams to reduce development costs, keep them closer to market trends and ensure that products pass their high quality and compliance standards. —Jessica Binns Harry Rosen Toronto, Canada | www.harryrosen.com NOMINATED BY: Infor | www.infor.com t may have been built on legendary old-school service, but highend Canadian men’s wear retailer Harry Rosen has upgraded its hands-on approach to the customer experience with decidedly new-school technology. With 16 stores in its fleet, the Toronto-based company has been serving a discerning clientele since founder Harry Rosen and his brother Lou put $500 down for their first shop in the city’s Cabbagetown neighborhood, though the retailer now has 40 percent market share in an ultra-competitive environment and achieved 10 percent annual revenue growth from 2009 to 2013. Current CEO Larry Rosen — Harry’s oldest son — describes the clientele as “MOPES:” managers, owners, professionals, entrepreneurs, “to which we would add professional athletes and entertainers,” he says. “Our clients are leaders or aspire to be.” Those clients are as much attracted to Harry Rosen’s comprehensive mix of brands — from traditional luxury labels such as Ermenegildo Zegna and Giuseppe Zanotti to modern offerings from the likes of Citizens of Humanity and Original Paperbacks — as they are to the kind of high-touch service provided by a company whose most senior clothing advisor has been on duty for an astonishing 59 years. “We’re famed for our longevity and retention of staff,” notes Rosen. “Many have worked with us for more than 10, 20, 30 years.” Initially the clothing advisors kept meticulously detailed notes regarding client preferences on hand-written index cards, but that all changed once the company’s client roster ballooned to half a I million, rendering manual management unwieldy and unsustainable. The company undertook a much-needed upgrade to Infor CRM, which enables clothing advisors to share data between stores and segment customers according to clothing preferences, shopping frequency and average purchase price so they can offer timely and informed sales recommendations. While this digital system solved a host of problems, Harry Rosen wanted to take things one step further. A client who dropped in for an unscheduled visit usually caught clothing advisors off-guard, prompting them to sally forth to access the customer database. Because side-by-side service is perhaps the essence of a hightouch clienteling environment, CIO Stephen Jackson realized that extending CRM to mobile platforms could elevate the experience for both customers and clothing advisors — and increase revenue per visit.4 www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2015 23 TOP INNOVATORS “My role as CIO is to align technology with the business and to provide our clothing advisors with a competitive edge through the most advanced clientele systems within the retail industry,” says Jackson. Harry Rosen supports a BYOD environment; clothing advisors use their own smartphones, which results in a mix of Android phones, BlackBerrys and iPhones, and a few carry tablets on the store floor. The average store includes 18,000 square feet (though the flagship clocks in at 55,000), making connectivity from any location within the four walls of utmost importance, especially as clients’ communication preferences have transitioned over the years from calling to texting and emailing, notes Rosen. Infor’s mobile CRM version integrates with Harry Rosen’s ecommerce site and POS, creating a unified source of enterprise data. The software tracks important KPIs such as sales, customer visit frequency, time spent with clients, revenue per client visit/lifetime, multiple unit sales percentage, profiled clients, and cam- paign calls. What’s more, the software also integrates with Harry Rosen’s labor scheduling platform, increasing operational efficiencies and allowing clients who log into the company’s website to view their clothing advisor’s availability. “Everyone thinks we sell clothes, but we sell advice and wardrobe consulting,” explains Rosen. “We earn clients’ trust and create relationships. We haven’t changed our values since our founding days, we’re just letting the machines work for us.” Over time, user adoption of the mobile CRM platform has grown from 33 percent to 95 percent, helping clothing advisors to be more productive and efficient. “The pace of adoption to the mobile platform really depended on the age and awareness of the clothing advisor,” Rosen says. “Our younger, tech-savvy advisors were quick to adopt. But everyone has come on board, proving there is no truth to the adage that you can’t teach an old dog new tricks.” — Jessica Binns Brooks Brothers New York, N.Y. |www.brooksbrothers.com NOMINATED BY: 7thOnline | www.7thonline.com hen you think of the Brooks Brothers brand, the phrases “classic,” “iconic” and “conservative” instantly come to mind. Yet, the retailer is synonymous with innovation when it comes to continuously meeting shifting consumer demand and new market opportunities. In fact, this strategy is the key to its 197-year staying power. A company that built its reputation as a men’s clothier with a proud record of outfitting 39 out of 44 U.S. presidents, Brooks Brothers has grown into a lifestyle brand for men and women alike. From an operational perspective, the company continues its transformation efforts — a move that enables closer customer ties and seamless shopping experiences for both existing and new customers. Brooks Brothers’ current transformation strategy priority is “to become a global omnichannel player,” explained Sahal Laher, executive vice president and CIO of the company. However, global expansion is always easier said than done. “Like many retailers, we were doing business in multiple countries, yet were not ‘truly global,’” Laher said. “We had stores, operations and offices overseas, but processes and infrastructure were not set up to support and scale a global operation.” Specifically, Brooks Brothers was using a combination of a legacy planning system and spreadsheets. As the business continued to grow in scale and complexity, the largely manual process and tools posed W 24 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com limitations for Brooks Brothers to efficiently manage rising stockkeeping units (SKU) counts, and proactively address shifting demand patterns. Specifically, these aging operations were disparate, “making it impossible to look at our business as a whole,” he explained. “These are hindrances to a global omnichannel brand, and also the issues that prompted us to change our direction.” It was clear the company needed to eliminate data siloes, consolidate enterprise technology, and create one version of the truth running through all enterprise systems. A top priority was to modernize the company’s demand planning and execution processes. This required the company to retire manual Excel spreadsheets that different lines of business used to compare data, and instead automate its merchandise and assortment planning capabilities. While investing in best-of-breed solutions can help modernize processes, “too often companies install new packages believing all of their problems will go away,” Laher said. “When they are still running antiquated processes, and new solutions don’t help, retailers don’t understand why.” Determined not to go down that path, Brooks Brothers began exploring consolidated, yet scalable solutions that could break down barriers between TOP INNOVATORS channels, and create a foundation for assortment planning. This is especially important for an apparel retailer such as Brooks Brothers that regularly manages tens of thousands of SKUs. “We needed a systematic platform that can conduct automated scientific modeling scenarios that respond to different factors,” he explained. “It requires us look at demand as the driver of what specific product is needed in stores.” The company found its ideal industry-specific solution from 7thonline. At a high level, 7thonline’s solutions will enable Brooks Brothers to gain visibility of consumer demand signals at the most granular level, and optimize inventory positions for greater margins and lower financial risks. By adding the supplier’s Fabrix Retail Suite as its corporate merchandise and assortment planning solution, for example, all planning and reporting processes are streamlined into an integrated process. This includes insight into multiple factors, including actual and predicted sales for specific stores and channels. This helps the chain create an accurate global financial model for all channels. Meanwhile, 7thonline’s Size Optimization Services are designed to match merchandise size allocation with local demand across all stores. Making the move away from legacy systems and manual spreadsheets to the integrated, analytics-rich platform, Brooks Broth- ers will gain complete demand visibility, streamline processes and anticipate profit opportunities and inventory risks in a timely manner. “We sought a planning solution that was powerful, yet lightweight to implement and easy to tailor for our unique needs,” said Laher. “The platform will provide a single point of demand visibility for our direct-to-consumer business.” The chain plans to begin implementation for its North American operations in July, and Laher expects to begin seeing benefits by the end of the year. “Our expectation is to learn the impact of customer demand, and delve into sales lost due to not having the right sizes available, or directing them elsewhere to save the sale,” he said. “We expect a massive opportunity that will enable us to have the right product in stores at the right time.” These efforts are setting the tone for the company’s continued investments in its global omnichannel capabilities, especially as the company inches toward its 200th anniversary. “We are always considering strategies that will keep us relevant for another 200 years,” he said. “If we are going to be a serious global omnichannel lifestyle brand, we need the right processes to support that [goal].” — Deena M. Amato-McCoy www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2015 25 TOP INNOVATORS Everything But Water Orlando, Fla. | www.everythingbutwater.com NOMINATED BY: Mi9 Retail | www.mi9retail.com rivately-held, 30-year-old Everything But Water operates 95 stores and an e-commerce channel catering to women’s swimwear, resort-wear and accessories. Besides being a destination for shoppers seeking chic vacation wear, pool party ensembles and summer style-inspired merchandise, loyal customers are also attracted to the retailer’s sales associates who provide personal attention and help transform what could be a stressful swim shopping experience into “a relaxed ‘me-moment,’” noted the retailer’s chairman, Randall Blumenthal. However, when Blumenthal purchased the company five years ago, he immediately noticed that an aging operating system was indirectly impacting the exceptional service on which the brand built its reputation. “The main pain point at the time was a slowness within the [operating] system,” he explained. “Besides the platform being slow, it had poor reliability and reporting, and was not scalable.” When preparing to replace the outdated legacy retail system, Blumenthal began evaluating new platform options that would support integrated omnichannel capabilities, including buying, pricing, inventory management, inventory valuation and customer relationship management. These processes are especially important within an omnichannel experience that requires a tight connection between demand chain operations, and one that can ensure that proper product assortments hit the right business channel at the right time. These efforts required a scalable platform that supports a centralized database to feed these solutions, as opposed to using manually-managed disparate data marts. “We also required a solution that offered several modules that work well together, [tied together] with well-written software,” Blumenthal explained. For Everything But Water, Miami-based Mi9 offered the ideal solution. This end-to-end retail suite includes retail analytics, merchandise management with a fully-integrated mobile platform, point-of- P sale and store operations solutions. The comprehensive, scalable, end-to-end merchandise management and store systems solution provides the retailer with best-in-class technology, real-time data accessibility and omnichannel functionality — all features that deliver meaningful visibility into shopper behavior, product performance and vendor reliability. While rolling out an all-encompassing solution can be a daunting task, Blumenthal has spent the past 24 months deploying the platform in stages. The first phase was the enterprise-wide installation of the solution’s business intelligence module, “and currently all primary modules are installed,” he said. Since beginning the deployment, the retailer has increased business efficiency, streamlined its processes, and managed its merchandising operations and order fulfillment with improved visibility. “Operating one system ensures that nothing gets lost in translation, and our advanced reporting capability has contributed to virtually no errors in our fulfillment processes,” he added. — Deena M. Amato-McCoy Macy’s New York City, N.Y. | www.macys.com NOMINATED BY: Alvanon | www.alvanon.com orty-five million albums sold. More than 24 million followers across Facebook, Instagram and Twitter. Eight telenovelas watched by more than 2 billion viewers in 180 countries. With numbers like these, it’s little wonder Macy’s jumped at the opportunity to collaborate on a fashion collection with F 26 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com beloved Mexican superstar Ariadna Thalía Sodi Miranda, better known as just Thalía. With Hispanics accounting for 15 percent of adults and 22 percent of Millennials in the United States, wielding purchasing power estimated to reach $1.5 trillion this year, retailers have been paying particular attention in recent years to this fast-grow- ing and influential demographic as evidenced by Kmart’s Sofia by Sofia Vergara collection and Jennifer Lopez’s partnership with Kohl’s. Before even considering design elements that would speak to Hispanic shoppers, Macy’s knew that perfecting the fit of the collection would be half the battle. The TOP INNOVATORS retailer reached out to fit firm Alvanon, which took more than 20,000 body scans to help develop the right size and fit. “We also sent cross-functional teams to Mexico City to learn more about this customer and her fashion needs,” says Marcia Haimbach, executive vice president of ready-to-wear and intimate apparel for Macy's merchandising group. Fit research spanned 18 months and yielded key learnings about specific body attributes for the target customer. “The Thalía fit caters to the woman who has less curve between her waist and hips with shorter rise,” Haimbach explains. “She also has a fuller upper body. She shops our stores but for different brands and fits, so our goal was to create a one-stop shop for her.” Once Macy’s had established the ideal fit, it was time to get down to brass-tacks with Thalía, who Haimbach says was very involved in the overall look of the collection, from color and print to design (and even fit, too). “She meets with our team for color and print reviews and to give feed- back on what's important for the Latina customer,” notes Haimbach. “She identified animal print as a neutral for this customer that should be in the collection at all times.” From shoes and jewelry to apparel and accessories, the Thalía collection features vivid colors, eye-catching prints and versatile, flattering silhouettes that Macy’s hopes appeal to millions of women globally in addition to the Hispanic shopper. When the time came to unveil the collection, Macy’s leveraged Thalía’s status as a digital influencer and tapped into the evolving social networking trends among Hispanics. In recent years the retailer has fine-tuned and shifted more of its targeted marketing to the Hispanic consumer away from traditional media and into digital media platforms, especially mobile. “Over the past few years, we've seen dramatic increases in consumption of media by Hispanic customers across digital platforms,” says Haimbach. “Thalía is a highly followed social media influencer, with millions of fans worldwide. “Offering a preview of the collection through the first-ever Facebook launch of a new brand via a live stream fashion show was the perfect opportunity to allow her fans access through a platform they are already using daily,” she continues. The runway preview aired on Thalía’s Facebook page in January and has now been viewed by more than 3.5 million fans globally; the collection officially launched on March 5. As the Hispanic demographic will only continue to grow in size, importance and influence in the United States, Macy’s expects to have an ongoing and productive relationship with the blond bombshell, who was named one of People Magazine’s Most Beautiful (Los Más Bellos) a whopping nine times (a record!) and one of the top 25 most powerful Latinas by People en Español. “We see Thalía as a long-term brand at Macy’s with growth opportunities,” Haimbach concludes. — Jessica Binns Twice as Nice Uniforms Atlanta, Ga. | www.TwiceAsNiceUniforms.com NOMINATED BY: Self edical scrubs are traditionally baggy, unisex, pajama-like garments constructed of low-grade poplin cotton,” says Debora Carrier, founder and CEO of Twice as Nice Uniforms. Carrier knows this first hand. As a longtime dental hygienist, she struggled to stay both comfortable and professionally presentable in her chilly dental office, but could not find any uniforms that would enable her to stay warm and comfortable while looking stylish and also professional. So she decided to make one herself, securing a patent for her design in 2013. It’s not a bad time to be focusing on the healthcare business. With more than 59.2 million1 workers, the medical industry is one of the largest and fastest growing industries globally and most of those workers need scrubs. Spending on scrubs in the United States alone will surpass $532 million in 2015.2 “M 28 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com Even so, there has been little to no change in terms of style, fabric or functionality since they became a mandatory uniform for hospital personnel in the 1980s, says Carrier. “The medical industry continues to evolve; patients are demanding higher levels of care and medical scrubs must follow suit,” she says. In addition to wearing scrubs that look drab, clinicians also must suffer the cold, as temperatures in medical facilities are typically kept low to accommodate hospital equipment, says Carrier. To keep warm, workers often layer their uniforms with hoodies or other outerwear, a practice that is both unhygienic and unprofessional in appearance. “These are typically 40-plus-hour-a-week jobs. That’s a significant amount of time to wear baggy, uncomfortable clothes.” In short, she says, “the medical uniform has long been overdue for an overhaul.” TOP INNOVATORS Enter Twice as Nice Uniforms, which has taken a new approach to scrubs by adding a patented, removable, hidden liner made of lightweight performance fabric that is both antimicrobial and moisture-wicking. “This scrub not only looks better, but also regulates the body temperature of the health care clinician, eliminating the need for layers over or under the uniform,” says Carrier. The wearer can also quickly remove the liner (it’s attached with a branded snap tape), which creates two uniforms in one — thus the Twice as Nice name. Twice as Nice Uniforms also offer an improvement over the boxy fit of many scrubs on the market, which Carrier says typically offer style variations only in color and pattern. Working with fit expert Renée Bavineau of Raise the Bar RTB LLC, Twice as Nice Uniforms developed two scrub styles with features designed to flatter every body type, says Carrier. Twice as Nice Uniforms also feature enhanced fabric and finishes. Its premium scrub fabric is a silky poly-rayon-Spandex blend with two-way stretch that maintains its shape. The liner is interquilt, which Carrier says keeps the wearer looking fresh and fitted all day, and pockets have been strategically placed and structured to accommodate today’s tablets and various sizes of smartphones. With investor funding, Twice as Nice Uniforms is currently in its second production run with a New Jersey-based manufacturer. With this second run, it has launched a men’s line and expanded its color options for its women’s line. The company is growing quickly and using social media and its website to build brand awareness, says Carrier. Uniforms are marketed online, via local trunk shows at medical professional association gatherings and via a team of brand ambassadors gathered from within the medical community. — Jordan K. Speer 1 World Health Organization 2008, http://www.who.int/hrh/documents/ counting_health_workers.pdf 2 2014 Health Care Staff and Scrub Retailer Survey, Uniform Retailers Association (URA) Mountain Equipment Co-op Vancouver, BC | www.mec.ca NOMINATED BY: Visual 2000 International | www.visual-2000.com hether it is customer-inspired or internally focused, sustainability and the environment are at the forefront of every business decision that Mountain Equipment Co-op makes. By tightening its focus on collaboration, the company is creating a roadmap that will help it achieve its goals that much faster. Vancouver-based Mountain Equipment Co-op (MEC) evolved in 1971 when a group of West Coast mountaineers agreed to turn an unconventional retail model into a thriving business. Eager to create a local marketplace for Canadian outdoor enthusiasts, six comrades developed a consumer cooperative (with an unlimited number of equal membership shares) that sold quality gear for rock climbing, mountaineering, ski mountaineering and hiking. Fast-forward more than 40 years, and the company has evolved tremendously. By matching people with expertise, experience, enthusiasm, clothing and gear for camping, snow sports, water sports, cycling, climbing, hiking, running and fitness, the company has attracted more than 3.75 million members across Canada. With a commitment to “give back to the planet,” every year members’ purchases enable the company to donate 1 percent of sales to Canadian non-profit W organizations that help conserve ecologically and recreationally important areas. While MEC strives to inspire and enable Canadians to lead active outdoor lifestyles with environmentally sound merchandise, this is more than just lip service. Honoring the environment is a business strategy that drives all internal operations, including product production. “We create our products carefully, and we constantly explore new ways to improve our practices and reduce our impact on the environment,” said Sandra Rossi, MEC’s director of product design. It is this commitment that led the company to bluesign. Officially known as bluesign technologies AG, this Swiss organization works with fabric mills to ensure that environmental standards — from energy, raw materials and chemicals going in, and water and air emissions going out of the environment — are met. Already designing merchandise with bluesign materials, MEC upped the ante and set a goal that it would reach 100 percent bluesign materials used in apparel and sleeping bags by 2017. “We were making incremental increases season after season, but until we made a concrete goal, the conversion was slower than we wanted,” she explained. Because this was a shared goal across different departments, it forced everyone to work together as a team. One way to keep the team on the same page was through its adoption of a product lifecycle management (PLM) system. While the PLM solution was not the catalyst for the project, “it is a tool that will help us easily track products, material yardage and certifications that support our bluesign and environmentally preferred materials efforts,” she said. “It provides us with an easy tool to analyze our progress and set goals for the future without a lot of extra work and spreadsheets. Everything we need is recorded and found in PLM.” In choosing the best system to support its needs, the company sought a PLM sys- www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2015 29 TOP INNOVATORS tem that was best suited to a small- to mediumsized, but growing, company, Rossi said. By choosing a solution from Montrealbased Visual 2000 International, the co-op can streamline all product and material specifications, as “everything about a style is now recorded in one place,” she said. “Anyone in the organization who needs information can access the portion they need within PLM.” The solution is clearly working its magic, as the co-op continues making significant progress in reaching its fast-approaching bluesign goal. “At the end of 2015, we will be at 70 percent,” Rossi reported. “The last 30 percent will be the toughest, but we are all dedicated to working together and making it happen.” Of course, bluesign is only one of many projects the PLM system supports. “We’ve got lots of ideas, and Visual 2000 thus far has been very supportive and we’ve gotten everything we’ve asked for,” she added. “As we use it more, we expect to continue working with Visual 2000 to get even more out of the system.” — Deena M. Amato-McCoy JustFab Los Angeles, Calif. | www.justfab.com NOMINATED BY: NGC | www.ngcsoftware.com ince its launch in 2010, e-commerce darling JustFab has been on the forefront on many of today’s biggest retail trends: the convenience of online shopping, the addiction of fast fashion, the desire for a personalized, curated experience, the subscription business model. Through a series of acquisitions, JustFab Inc. now includes Fabletics, FabKids and ShoeDazzle, with 3 million VIP members signed up to receive a shiny new item — whether shoes, clothing or accessories — from their unique boutique each month for a flat fee of $39.95 (shipping’s on the house for orders of more than $39). JustFab can keep its prices so low because it designs everything in-house in Los Angeles; there’s no middleman to mark up prices to department-store or specialty retail levels. On track to surpass $500 million in revenue this year, JustFab has been growing at a rapid clip by moving into new categories, increasing product offerings and expanding internationally; between JustFab and Fabletics, the company serves Australia, France, Germany, The Netherlands, Spain, Sweden and the United Kingdom, in addition to the United States and Canada. With its “need for speed” approach, JustFab can capitalize on the latest trends and deliver fresh, of-the-moment products to customers quickly, feeding the relentless appetite for new, new, new. But enviable growth always comes with a few pain points, and eventually the company outgrew some of its operational plat- S 30 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com forms. “With our rapid growth and need to expand our sources of supply, we required a system that would provide a single source of data across cross-functional teams,” explains Russel Steingold, senior vice president of Fabletics and global sourcing. “We wanted a cloud-based solution that our accounting, merchandising, design, product development and supply chain teams could use for their needs, respectively. We could no longer function using spreadsheets due to the complexities of our business and the rapid growth we were seeing.” In the first quarter of 2014, JustFab began implementing NGC’s PLM platform to effectively collaborate with suppliers and keep tabs on changes throughout the product development process. The software aids with line planning, material development, sampling and sourcing, and includes workflow calendars and an exception dashboard to help keep all aspects of design both on time and on budget. Today 80 users are on the NGC platform. Streamlining its product development department enables JustFab to pursue interesting opportunities and collaborate on special collections, as it did with People StyleWatch — a top style source for Millennial women — on a 32-piece capsule in March. The 25 shoe styles and seven handbags featured the latest designs and colors for spring, allowing JustFab to reach People StyleWatch’s 10.5 million subscribers. Going forward, JustFab plans to continually fine-tune the customer experience. “As a fashion company, we are constantly looking to evolve the personalized experience we give our members,” Steingold says. “I think the customer experience will continue to evolve and become more and more customized and engaging. The JustFab Inc. brands have been focused on changing the way people are shopping for fashion online, and we are always enhancing that experience.” —Jessica Binns TOP INNOVATORS Performance Scrubs Brentwood, Tenn. | www.performancescrubs.com NOMINATED BY: Self orget New York, forget Los Angeles, forget San Francisco: if you’re looking for true innovation in apparel, look south, past the well-known hotbeds of North and South Carolina into the heart of the deep South: Alabama. The rumblings of a Made-in-America renaissance are alive and well in Florence, Ala., where high-tech medical apparel manufacturer Performance Scrubs unveiled in October 2014 a brandnew 50,000-square-foot state-of-the-art facility that houses highly skilled and specialized seamstresses, cutter operators, software engineers, and sales and marketing staff. Not that domestic production is necessarily new to the company. For many years Performance outsourced production to cut-and-sew factories in and around Cullman, Ala., says J. Kirby Best, co-founder and CEO. “About six years ago Performance bought the assets of an old cut-and-sew operation and decided that one of our core strengths would be the manufacturing of products right here in the United States,” explains Best. “Today, Made in the USA is one of our identifiers, although we often say ‘don’t buy it because it is made in the USA, buy it because it’s the best in the world.’” To Best, the value proposition of committing to domestic manufacturing seems clear as day. “Many apparel companies are seeking ways to bring their manufacturing back to the U.S. but cannot seem to get past the prices they are receiving in China,” he notes. “However, if these companies examined the entire costs associated with manufacturing the supply chain offshore and not just the price per piece, the benefits would become obvious.” The new technologically advanced factory is the result of many years of research and collaboration with thought leaders across industries, according to Best. “Great minds with top experience from IBM, the Hubble Space Telescope, and the largest on-demand digital printing company came together to develop a whole new way to do business,” he explains. “The supply chain has been stretched to the limit in the clothing business. Performance seized the opportunity and collaborated with experts whose boldly creative and technically brilliant minds created a solution that addresses these challenges.” That solution is the OnPoint system, which features Recirculation Backbone Technology (RBT), an automated manufacturing platform that employs software-driven proprietary workflows and a smart three-dimensional conveyer system. Essentially, RBT shuttles totes filled with cut fabric to the right sewer in the right sequence, though it’s actually much more sophisticated than that, says Best. “By automating the entire supply chain from order entry to delivery, you can use one factory to make millions of unique products simultaneously,” he adds. For clients, this means inventory can be greatly reduced or even eliminated in some cases as stock can be replenished literally overnight. And RBT is cost-effective even for one-off runs. F 32 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com Research reveals that consumers want and expect a wide range of options in every product, Best notes. “The solution is to integrate all of the systems so that the order flows directly from the customer completely through the system without human interference, without building inventory while still offering millions of unique product combinations.” In addition to scrubs, the company also produces sportswear and sleepwear, all of which leverage similar technical fabrics that deliver moisture-wicking, antimicrobial, wrinkle-resistant, color control and odor elimination properties. Every product can be customized to the client’s specifications, says Best. Beyond quality and ensuring that each item shipped meets highly defined specifications, Performance’s most closely tracked metric is operations per hour. Because every garment requires a unique set of operations, the only measurement that means anything out on the floor level is operations per hour per shift, explains Best. “The whole management team carries iPads around the shop and can always give any of the team members their exact counts at any moment,” he explains. “Soon every workstation will be equipped with a monitor that will scroll through the necessary functions and information needed.” Instead of resting on its laurels, Performance is investigating new ways to enhance its facility and service, experimenting with computerized avatars, 3D laser measuring systems, and robotic arms to deliver even greater levels of automation and customization. Best is certain that the apparel industry will have to evolve significantly in coming years. “Business lines will blur more and faster than before. Retail will move towards showrooms, and manufacturing or high-speed distribution will adapt to make this happen,” he says. “An omnichannel approach to selling will win, but the question now is just how long will it take, and can manufacturing drive it fast enough?” — Jessica Binns TOP INNOVATORS Mitchells Family of Stores Westport, Conn. | shop.mitchellstores.com NOMINATED BY: ThoughtWorks Retail | www.thoughtworks.com/retail hile it describes itself as late to the technology game, Mitchells Family of Stores is certainly making up for lost time as it expands the customer engagement technology platform that earned the company one of Apparel Magazine’s Top Innovator spots in 2014. When Westport, Conn.-based Mitchells earned this honor last year, the company was embarking on a platform that could enable a true one-to-one engagement strategy. Fashioned around a rudimentary, albeit effective, practice, engagement came in the form of store associates using their personal cellphone cameras to take photos of merchandise. These shots were shared with loyal customers via emails and texts to update them on new arrivals. The process, called Mpix, set the tone for the company’s evolving omnichannel customer engagement strategy. In fall 2014, Mitchells, partnering with Chicago-based ThoughtWorks Retail, introduced a web-based customizable platform that delivers much more easily accessible robust customer information to sales associates. A cloud-based database stores details such as preferences and purchase history, as well as the associates’ Mpix library of chainwide inventory and related product information needed to expertly share offerings with their clients. Six months into its launch, the platform now manages 15,000 SKUs, and all data shared between style advisors and customers is updated in near- W real-time. While he wouldn’t share specific details, Andrew Mitchell-Namdar, the chain’s vice president of marketing and creative services, reported that reserved product levels and in-store traffic are both on the rise. With an eye to the future, MitchellNamdar didn’t waste time expanding the platform’s functionality. Almost in tandem, the retailer launched its e-commerce site, www.mitchells.com. Now, Mitchells is taking steps to integrate the two pieces together to create an all-encompassing interactive customer engagement tool. “By merging our e-commerce solution, we have truly created an omnichannel structure that has the ability to drive in-store and online sales,” he explained. One new piece of functionality within the platform (now known as M World), is the ability for online customers to sign in and chat with a virtual style advisor who serves customers based on their preferences and style needs. The platform also features an interactive virtual closet — a personalized digital catalog of every purchase each individual customer has made brand-wide over five years, both in-store and online. Meanwhile, the retailer also launched an interactive dashboard that enables customers to view the status of alterations requested in-store, as well as collaborate with their individual style advisors regarding new arrivals and track reservedproduct status. “While analyzing how many customers are using functionality, we were excited to see a higher number of users than expected,” Mitchell-Namdar said. “Now we are focused on increasing the ease of functionality.” Mitchells has clearly covered a lot of ground in six months, and the chain shows no sign of slowing down. In fact, there is a two-year wish list burning a hole in Mitchell-Namdar’s proverbial pocket. Among the first projects is a recommendation engine — but not just any engine. “Too many seem automated. We need something that feels like a virtual stylist is making recommendations,” he explained. “We are working to bring the in-store experience online as best as we can, but we also need to make changes that create a true omnichannel experience. Our mantra is the customer has to see the benefit of all of our services brandwide, or they will shop elsewhere.” To ensure no grass grows underfoot, Mitchell-Namdar is planning to add more people to the retailer’s technology team so it can move as fast as it can, he explained. “Technology changes very quickly and we have lots of wonderful ideas.” “It is a great feeling to have [won the Top Innovator] honor more than once, but the best acknowledgement is still when I am stopped at a store by a shopper who says how much she loves the site,” he noted. “This means we are innovating in the right way.” — Deena M. Amato-McCoy SustainU Morgantown, W. Va. | www.sustainuclothing.com/store NOMINATED BY: Self uthentic. Honest. True to its roots. These are more than words to Morgantown, Va.-based SustainU Clothing. These words define a business mission that has contributed to growth for the young apparel company. A From long- and short-sleeve t-shirts to hoodies and zip-up fleece sweatshirts, SustainU is a 23-person, six-year-old company that produces American-made apparel from recycled materials. Dedicated to the importance of conserving the earth’s increasingly limited resources, SustainU has made it mission-critical to use post-industrial cottons and post-consumer polyester to make its comfortable, yet durable fabrics. These efforts alone save millions of gallons of water, petroleum, agrochemicals and www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2015 33 TOP INNOVATORS CO2 emissions, according to the company. What is equally as important as the company’s love for the earth is its love and pride for its country. While the trend in fashion has been to slash operating costs through outsourcing labor overseas, the company has a vested interest in domestic manufacturing. The result is quality apparel and the reinvigoration of a vital American manufacturing sector, the company reports. Local production, comprised of smart supply chains, also contributes to the creation of an affordable product, debunking the widely held belief that sustainable clothing is synonymous with being expensive. “When you show that you can be price competitive and the quality can actually be better [using recycled materials], and create jobs domestically it's a win-win for college sports and consumers,” said Chris Yura, SustainU’s CEO, as quoted in The State Journal, a business publication covering West Virginian businesses. “We're one of the companies leading the way in developing this area of the apparel industry.” These characteristics have contributed to significant growth over the past five years. The brand is especially attractive to other local companies with similar mission statements. One of its most recent partners: Facility Merchandising Inc. (FMI), the 30year-old Woodland Hills, Calif.-based distributor of non-consumable merchandise across arenas, stadiums and events nationwide. The company recently acquired the rights to operate the retail concessions, become the master licensee, and handle all e-commerce operations for the prestigious America's Cup yachting event. Also dedicated to sustainability and reducing its carbon footprint, FMI plans to use the upcoming America's Cup as its first venue to introduce an entire product line developed from 100 percent post-consumer waste. Based on similar business goals, it makes sense that the two companies found each other and developed a partnership. Their first event: the 2013 America’s Cup. “That was an exciting event and it went very well,” Yura said. Positive results prompted the duo to team up for SustainU’s most recent endeavor, designing and manufacturing official game shirts sold by FMI during the 2015 College Football Playoff National Championship played in January. The game, which featured the University of Oregon Ducks and the Ohio State University Buckeyes going head-to-head at AT&T Stadium, in Arlington, Texas, gave the West Virginian manufacturer national exposure. “It's an incredible blessing to be able to reach that national market,” said Yura. “Our company has gotten a lot of attention in the sports apparel community. We have a lot of good employees putting in some hard work.” — Deena M. Amato-McCoy Buffalo Exchange Tucson, Ariz. | www.buffaloexchange.com NOMINATED BY: Celerant Technology | www.celerant.com apper Macklamore may have made it cool for the masses to go thrifting and “pop some tags,” but this is “business-asusual” for Buffalo Exchange, a company that has created a successful enterprise by featuring high-end one-of-a-kind vintage clothing and a knowledgeable sales team. By implementing a retail management platform, it is now blending innovation into its vintage-inspired chain with real-time insight into its inventory chain-wide. The Tucson-based company started in 1974 by Kerstin and Spencer Block as a 450square-foot store that bought, sold, traded and took vintage fashion clothing on consignment. At a time when resale shopping carried a stigma, the Blocks were determined to reverse this trend. Between Kerstin’s two loves of fashion and finding a good bargain, the couple grew the company into a 47-store, two-franchise chain across 17 states. R 34 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com The brand, which generated $81.6 million in revenue (as of December 2012), features vintage clothing from the 1930s to the 1980s, thanks to customers who bring in their fashionable high-end apparel for resale, all sold in clean, fun stores with a boutique atmosphere. Consignment customers receive payment once their merchandise is sold, and at that time, have the option of receiving cash or trade credit for their used clothes. In addition to the vintage clothing, about 20 percent of the stores’ merchandise is new. The chain manages more than 200,000 SKUs, but struggled with how to see what merchandise sold best in which locations, as well as how to calculate margins. Meanwhile, each piece of merchandise has its own unique SKU, which is impos- sible to manage without an automated system. “We can sell between 4,000 and 5,000 SKUs a week. When you multiply that times 48 stores for 52 weeks a year, it shows the depth of what we are managing, purely from a replenishment standpoint,” said Rebecca Block, the chain’s vice president, and Kerstin and Spencer’s daughter. “Internally, nothing talked together, or accommodated our SKUs. Instead, we would create new unique SKUs, replicate the number in our mainframe, and flood the operating system that was supported by DSL or T1 lines.” TOP INNOVATORS Buffalo Exchange tried to modernize its processes times before. With most enterprise point-of-sale (POS) systems in the marketplace designed to manage traditional sales, they couldn’t satisfy Buffalo Exchange’s needs. Yet, the chain was determined to automate and distinguish its merchandise trades and cash purchases, and manage its unique inventory identifiers. The company was ready for an automated retail management platform that could pull customer information as they made a trade or purchase, and store it in a centralized database. It also wanted daily reports on sales compared to trade, as well as automated updates of total cost of goods. Buffalo Exchange was able to address its needs by adopting Celerant’s Command Control platform. The vendor and retailer worked together to customize the platform to address its specific needs, and in 2012, the chain launched a new POS system capable of supporting and accounting for all of its desired buy, sell and trade transactions. A centralized database is integrated within reporting tools, and also within the chain’s existing accounting software. The chain also uses the software’s backend functionality, including its human capital management modules such as time clock functionality. “I can look anytime, in real-time to see sales for any given day, review a customer’s purchase or trade history, and even determine if any customers are flagged as problematic, connected to questionable or stolen high-value merchandise,” Block said. Looking ahead, the chain plans to open new stores in Pittsburgh and throughout Florida, as well as launch an e-commerce operation. With plans to launch this spring, the site will curate and sell vintage clothing. Simultaneously, the chain will augment the site with a sell-by-mail program. Customers use a self-addressed, stamped bag to ship consignment merchandise to be evaluated. “Our POS terminal will conduct the process, and we will respond with a note revealing the value based on a cash or trade rate,” she said. “Shoppers will alert us to whether they would like us to send a trade card or check.” As for POS-specific upgrades, Buffalo Exchange is evaluating new hardware, specifically equipment that is fashion-industry hardened to withstand store debris, such as lint and dust that can clog fans. Upgrades could launch as soon as 2017. — Deena M. Amato-McCoy www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2015 35 TOP INNOVATORS Canada Goose Ontario, Canada | www.canada-goose.com Gerber Technology www.gerbertechnology.com | www.yunique.com NOMINATED BY: ho would have thought 10 years ago that an outerwear brand whose roots lie with Antarctic expeditions would end up landing on the cover of Sports Illustrated’s 2013 swimsuit issue, gracing Kate Upton’s curves no less? That’s the story of Canada Goose, which has transformed itself from the brand of choice amongst hardcore outdoorsmen and cold-clime scientists to a covetable luxury good with price tags as high as $1,590 and preferred by celebrities including Drake, Daniel Craig and Emma Stone. The Torontobased retailer’s meteoric rise — 4,500 percent growth over the past decade, and U.S. sales up 30 percent since last year — has been helped along as much by the frigid temperatures of 2013’s Polar Vortex and 2014’s Siberian Express as by CEO Dani Reiss’s market and branding savvy. Current revenues have soared past $200 million and are expected to reach $300 million, up from $150 million last year. Bain Capital acquired a majority stake in Canada Goose in 2013 at a $250 million valuation, and Wall Street seems to be itching for an IPO in the not-so-distant future. The company moved into a new 96,000square-foot Toronto factory last October to keep up with white-hot demand, doubling production capacity and creating more W than 70 manufacturing jobs. Canada Goose churns out in excess of 500,000 premium jackets, each bedecked with its signature red, white and blue “Canada Goose Arctic Program” patch and many trimmed with coyote fur. Purchased in 2010, the Winnipeg facility also has expanded twice, and recently the company has taken over the building’s third floor as well, adding 90 new positions in the process. Canada Goose employs more than 1,000 staff worldwide, including 200 new hires over the past year, and maintains offices in Denver, London, Munich, Paris and Stockholm. Canada Goose runs a tight manufacturing ship, implementing Gerber Technology’s cut-ticket process in Winnipeg in which AccuMark pattern design software generates a ticket with all the important information for the work order such as color, fabric types and quantities. The tickets then can be scanned to provide precise instructions for Gerber’s spreading and Paragon cutter equipment. “Our company is growing rapidly so to keep up with demand, we’re always looking for ways to increase capacity and improve production efficiencies,” says COO Paul Riddlestone. “The implementation of Ger- Stantt New York, N.Y. | www.stantt.com NOMINATED BY: Lectra | www.lectra.com here’s no denying that men’s wear is having a moment (and quite an extended one). According to NPD Group, sales growth of men’s apparel in 2013 outpaced women’s, and an IBISWorld report found that e-commerce sales of men’s clothing from 2010 to 2015 far surpassed every other category that analysts reviewed (eg, electronics, alcohol, auto parts, pet supplies). Translation: more than ever, men are paying increasing attention to fashion and style. T 36 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com ber’s Cut-Ticket process allowed us to increase the number of fabric pieces we could cut at once, while at the same time improving accuracy and reducing waste. “The new machine is extremely precise in cutting the fabric so that we’re not left with much extra material, which becomes more and more important as we grow and produce more jackets every year,” he adds. Since implementing the process more than a year ago, Canada Goose has reduced waste by as much as 3 percent. “There are more than 325 employees working in our Winnipeg facility and this new technology has absolutely increased production volume, as well as improved efficiency and increased capacity, without sacrificing quality,” Riddlestone explains. “We pride ourselves on making the best and warmest jackets in the world, so quality is of the utmost importance.” — Jessica Binns TOP INNOVATORS Yet in the midst of this madness for men’s wear, in the newfound enthusiasm for twee bowties and ironic suspenders and Instagram-ready pattern mixing genius, there’s still plenty of room for a couple of outsiders with a new idea to step in and disrupt The Way Things Have Always Been Done. Enter Kirk Keel and Matt Hornbuckle, co-founders of Stantt, a new brand of casual dress shirts that Kickstarted its way to success by crushing its funding goal in lighting-fast time: 200 percent funded in just 24 hours. Clearly, the brand’s mission resonated with supporters. And that mission is to end the long-standing idea of S/M/L sizing by delivering high-quality dress shirts in — wait for it — 75 sizes. Each named for a street in New York City. And it’s all possible because: data. Keel and Hornbuckle, who both previously worked for Johnson & Johnson in brand management, decided that 3D body-scanning technology would offer the best insights into the range of body types and sizes out there, partnering with Lectra and leveraging its user-friendly platform. “We talked to every key supplier of 3D modeling and patternmaking and Lectra’s system by far was the easiest to use and the most helpful in terms of output and data,” says Hornbuckle. Between physical and digital models, the pair fit 2,220 guys, informing the wide range of sizes now available on its Shopify-powered e-commerce site that has been up and running since December. Users simply enter their chest, waist and sleeve measurements and an algorithm calculates the ideal fit. Shipping and returns are free, of course. Hornbuckle is quick to point out that the brand’s website experience is just as important as perfecting the fit of each shirt. “Today’s guy knows fit and style are really important but simplicity and ease are an important part of the shopping experience as well,” he explains. Despite the initial first push via e-commerce, however, the duo has discovered that there’s nothing like meeting potential customers face to face. “We’re seeing old-school retailing, like setting up pop-up shops, is so much more impactful,” notes Hornbuckle. “We were in Chelsea Market recently, and having that one-on-one interaction with the consumer, and allowing him to actually try on the shirt and discover the amazing quality of our product is hundreds of times more effective compared with the online customer acquisitions methods we were trying.” The Chelsea pop-up was so successful that Stantt started another six-week run on April 27. Although Stantt launched with a manufacturing partner in New York, the brand now sources production in Central America with a factory that can turn shirts around in less than one week, using 100 percent cotton fabric sourced in Europe. “This manufacturer empowers the 75-sizes methodology where our inventory levels are a fraction of what they are in the industry standard,” Hornbuckle says. Stantt plans to expand to as many as 125 sizes this year and is working on a new line of casual shirts that could launch as early as this month at a $78 price point. As for competitors, Hornbuckle sees the brand as being alone in the crowd. “I see us as carving out a new space in apparel where we’re giving guys the best of ready-to-wear, which is a fast and easy experience, but you get the fit like it’s custom made,” he concludes. — Jessica Binns bumbrella www.wearbumbrella.com | Bay Village, Ohio NOMINATED BY: Self id you know that restrictive shapewear garments can deliver a world of hurt (in addition to that perfectly smoothed silhouette)? Nerve compression, acid reflux, blood clots in the lower extremities — that’s just the tip of the iceberg. “Most health care professionals would recommend wearing these shaping pieces for no more than three to four hours at a time, thereby making them impractical for daily wear,” says Tara Gallagher, whose career in marketing and advertising transitioned to practicing medicine as a physician, where she discovered the shapewear issues that prompted her to launch alternative undergarment brand bumbrella in 2012. D bumbrella is a two-in-one panty-andslip garment that prevents the twisting, turning and riding up often associated with traditional half slips while providing modesty and coverage beneath skirts and dresses. Gallagher was inspired to create bumbrella — “an umbrella for your bum” — by her own embarrassing experience wearing a black jersey dress to an outdoor funeral that unfortunately was revealed to be see-through in the bright sunshine. And her idea for the design came in part from the workout skorts that had become the staples of her daily exercise regimen. “As active as I was, I never had to think about the comfort of my workout wear,” explains Gallagher. “I wanted to bring this same kind of design inspiration to an undergarment that was completely lacking in the intimate apparel market.” Gallagher’s mother executed the first prototype, stitching together a cut-up half-slip and underwear and proving the concept to be viable. As a newcomer to the garment industry, the physician researched product development on the www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2015 37 TOP INNOVATORS Internet, partnering with a pair of industry veterans, including a pattern- and sample-maker with 40 years of intimate apparel experience. She went through roughly 15 rounds of trial-and-error with different fabrications. “I remember thinking the first sample felt a lot like a bathing suit,” notes Gallagher, “which is definitely not what I wanted.” Eventually, her team settled on a lightweight, breathable nylon/spandex blend with just enough stretch to hug the body and maintain its shape without squeezing uncomfortably. Gallagher had to abandon her initial hopes of manufacturing in the United States once she discovered the dearth of domestic options for producing apparel with fourway stretch fabric. Her product development partners leveraged their long partnerships in Asia to forge a contract with a small Chinese manufacturer, which is especially fortunate, says Gallagher, given bumbrella’s startup status and low minimums. “I was initially hesitant about manufacturing abroad due to the long lead times and perceived lack of control,” she adds, noting that the finished product has far exceeded her expectations. bumbrella offers two style options: a hipster panty and a thong, with a boy short version just about ready for production, all available in black, nude and blue. Although bumbrella’s sales are split 5050 between wholesale and direct-toconsumer at the moment, Gallagher would like to become a pure wholesaler in the future. Generating traffic to the bumbrella website has been an uphill battle, she says, along with attracting the attention of the all-important retail buyer. “The challenge is not only brand awareness but also creating awareness of a new product category within intimate apparel,” she adds. bumbrella may soon expand its offerings, as Gallagher says she’s considering a longer slip length, new colors, and plus sizes. A children’s line may also be an option — “I can’t tell you how many mothers have said how hard it is to find a girl’s slip,” she says — and a maternity product currently in the works will again leverage her medical expertise. “It’s so important to consider anatomy, especially the changing anatomy of a pregnant body,” Gallagher says. “I have always loved fashion and am delighted I can couple my medical and marketing knowledge to create practical, modern problem-solving garments that are also fashionable and fun,” she concludes. — Jessica Binns Ascena Retail Group Mahwah, N.J. | www.ascenaretail.com NOMINATED BY: TradeStone Software | www.tradestonesoftware.com scena Retail Group aspires to be a $10 billion top-line retailer with top-tier profitability — and an appetite for acquisitions — is helping them reach their goal. The addition of a collaborative platform that unifies the design, sourcing, ordering and delivery of retail goods will contribute to achieving this goal as well. Operating approximately 4,000 stores, and with close to $5 billion in annual sales, Mahwah, N.J.-based Ascena Retail Group, known as ascena, is a holding company for missy and plus-sized women’s apparel companies Lane Bryant, maurices, dressbarn and Catherines as well as tween apparel store Justice. ascena built its enterprise on the power of acquisitions, a strategy that is preparing the company for global growth. However, with every new acquisition, the company adds new complexities to an already-complicated existing infrastructure. “We’ve acquired multiple brands over time, and each came with its own ways of working from process, systems and tools perspectives,” said Jennifer Hunter, vice A 38 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com president of operations, ascena global sourcing (AGS). Over the years, however, the organization has become reliant on these disparate systems, tools and processes. What really began taking a toll on operations was reliance on email, spreadsheets and other manual processes that buyers and suppliers used during collaboration. For example, a buyer might perform an email search only to receive multiple downloads of various PDFs and data exports from Excel spreadsheets when finalizing the spring collection with one supplier. Those same cumbersome tasks would be repeated for all involved suppliers. The organization finally recognized that without common processes and tools across geographically dispersed ascena brands, these challenges would only intensify. “It was becoming imperative to have a common system in place so all brands could speak the same language,” Hunter explained. “Yet, it was also challenging to know that each brand was at a different starting point in this potential journey.” Doubts and fears aside, ascena recognized that it needed to implement synergies across the organization to support its overall growth business strategy. This required a common and holistic platform that featured one version of the truth throughout the entire product lifecycle. Based on these requirements, ascena chose TradeStone Software, Gloucester, Mass. Providing a single platform, TradeStone manages all aspects of product design, product development, collaborative sourcing, production, quality management, supplier management, order management, logistics, finance and business intelligence. Overall, this end-toend configuration creates efficiency, collaboration and a stronger sense of community throughout the organization, regardless of the brand, or whether stores are operated domestically or internationally. The web-based application supports streamlined collaboration with supplier partners, and seamlessly integrates with the parent company’s enterprise resource TOP INNOVATORS planning (ERP) solutions, including financials. To manage the deployment, a collaborative project team comprised of members of the business, finance and IT departments identified problems and resolutions. By choosing to keep the configuration as vanilla as possible, the team ensured the solution was primed to create the highest level of efficiencies enterprise-wide. The company started applying the solution across the Justice brand in 2014. Beginning with lifecycle management, tight integration enabled the brand to collaborate with its vendor and factory partners — a growing community of more than 55 direct sourcing vendors and 120-plus factories. These global partners now have access to a single platform to find, design, source and buy merchandise for the retail brand. Since going live, the brand has seen efficiency savings, which has been a large contributor to the project’s return on investment. The company is also using Justice's successes as its implementation model as it ramps up subsequent brands. ascena currently has two brands using TradeStone as its core platform: Justice and maurices. But this is just the beginning. “As we think about growth, we believe each one of our brands has significant organic top and bottom line opportunity,” said ascena’s CFO, Robb Giammatteo. “We see significant growth potential across all our brands related to expansion of our existing merchandising assortment, and as we continue our journey toward full realization of our omnichannel capability.” Leveraging a shared services platform and the establishment of a global community further positions ascena for continued growth and cultural transformation. “When we first set out, we thought we were just doing a system implementation project; it was much more than that,” said Hannah Schmitz, director of sourcing systems for AGS. The diverse community consisting of brand partners and Shared Services (including AGS and IT) knew failure was not an option. “What we really did was build a global community devoted to changing how we streamline our implementation methodology and product innovation processes to take our business to a new level,” Schmitz added. — Deena M. Amato-McCoy www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2015 39 TOP INNOVATORS Francesca’s Houston, Texas | www.francescas.com NOMINATED BY: MarketLive | www.marketlive.com hen you visit Francesca’s.com, the web site reminds shoppers to “Make sure to look in every nook and cranny, because around every corner, Francesca’s is brimming with treasures that are sure to become favorite pieces in your collection.” The brand takes this advice to heart, as it continues to add innovations to help shoppers to find these treasures, whether they visit online or in-store. Francesca’s opened its first store in Houston in 1999, a location that featured a fun, engaging assortment of handpicked merchandise. The retailer says its merchandise — an eclectic mix of carefully-curated clothing, bright baubles, bold accessories, and playful gifts — is as fun to give as it is to receive. Today, Francesca’s has more than 500 boutiques operating in 45 states across the country (88 new boutiques opened in fiscal 2014 alone), and operates online at francescas.com, and the chain is striving for an omnichannel operation that allows consumers to browse, surf or shop whenever it strikes their fancy. W Francesca’s is working to achieve this goal, in part via an e-commerce platform from MarketLive, a platform that helps companies to create cross-channel commerce customer experiences, engaging social campaigns and marketing and merchandising features across all customer digital touch points, regardless of whether they are accessed in-store or virtually. To ensure digital shoppers get the same service as those shopping in-store, for example, the chain enhanced its online offering with an innovative interactive “Collections Outfit Page,” which makes it easy and fun for shoppers to find just the right outfit, even if they can’t make it to an actual store location. The page is updated regularly for special occasions, holidays and seasons and is also mobile-optimized. The flexibility of the platform enables the retailer to round out the interactive experience through social campaigns, consistent pricing and promotions featured across touchpoints brand-wide. Results can be seen in the numbers: Direct-to-consumer sales increased 64 percent in fiscal 2014 versus the prior year due to increased traffic. Another enhancement that Francesca’s found success with was MarketLive’s geolocation-based boutique locator. (The company has temporarily disabled this feature due to a lack of internal resources to support it.) Fueled off of a shopper’s desktop, laptop or mobile device’s current IP address, the application was able to present the address, hours and phone number of the boutique nearest to the shopper’s device. Convenient links also offered directions to find another store if multiple locations were available in a shopper’s city. An additional content fill slot available on the mobile optimized site allowed the chain to populate promotional and event-related information tailored to each individual boutique. This enabled shoppers to see content pertinent to their chosen boutique. — Deena M. Amato-McCoy RG Barry Pickerington, Ohio | www.rgbarry.com NOMINATED BY: Simparel | www.simparel.com hen manufacturer RG Barry acquired new brands within its product portfolio, it was a blessing and a curse. Sure, it expanded the company’s breadth, but it also increased IT issues. By deploying a category-specific enterprise resource planning (ERP) system, the company was able to overcome challenges caused by disparate systems, including improved order accuracy and streamline shipments. A 60-year-old company, RG Barry originally built its reputation on its development of the iconic Dearfoam slipper brand. In the mid-1980s, slippers were no longer being merchandised as “footwear,” and began to be categorized as an accessories category — a move that prompted RG Barry to begin competing in a new category. This transition also gave the company more opportunity to grow its portfolio. With an eye on new accessory lines, RG Barry pursued a series of acquisitions, including Foot Petals, W a developer and marketer of premium insoles, and baggallini, a manufacturer of handbags, tote bags and travel accessories. These three brands have helped RG Barry evolve into a strong and growing accessory lifestyle manufacturer. Following the brand acquisitions however, one major challenge emerged. “We struggled to fold all three unstructured ERP systems into a single system of record,” said Tom Stoughton, director of information services, RG Barry. Each brand used a different solution, and they were also at three stages of usage. For example, one brand wasn’t fully leveraging their platform. Another completed its design processes offline, because it didn’t have the capacity to store all working data. Meanwhile, RG Barry had its own ERP issues. It relied on aging mainframe software that was not only generic, it had not been customized to support the growing accessory company’s increas- www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2015 41 TOP INNOVATORS ing volume. Described as between 30- and 40-year-old technology, the system was inflexible, non-scalable, and required upgrades that could take an entire weekend to accomplish. In June 2011, RG Barry began exploring integrated, apparelspecific options that could support its company, especially its expansion goals. Prerequisites included usability across all RG Barry’s brands, and the ability to identify retail customers across its specific brands. It had to manage merchandise at granular style, color and size levels, and identify the way its customers ordered. “Our old system didn’t have the logic to handle these processes, requiring us to custom-write code,” he said. With so many options to choose from, Stoughton and his team began vetting apparel-specific options. “We immediately eliminated those solutions that were missing components we wanted, as well as systems that weren’t fully integrated,” he explained. “That narrowed the field from 30 options to nine. We streamlined the choices to three requests for proposal [RFP], and then pared these down to two choices that featured demonstrations for our steering and IT teams.” Simparel emerged as the clear choice, and RG Barry began a 13-month implementation process that included transitioning to the new platform, as well as the ERP’s supporting systems, including Product Lifecycle Management (PLM), accounts payable, purchasing, sourcing and electronic data interchange. Users also traded in antiquated legacy-based “green screens” for interactive graphical user interfaces (GUI). “Using synchronized data, we can drill at many different levels, and easily export and extract information to manipulate and manage in real-time,” he said. “It's much easier and accurate than relying on information produced in a nightly batch process." Most importantly, the solution allows the company to communicate with vendors via an online portal, “so we know order prices and quantities, and can determine warehouse space needed during peak times, and ship orders on-time,” said Stoughton. The ERP system is also supporting new endeavors, such as the company’s baggalini brand’s new e-commerce program, which launched in March. As consumers place orders on www.baggalini.com, information is stored in the ERP solution via electronic data interchange (EDI). “We have a very mature EDI environment that supports 85 percent of orders taken and shipped,” Stoughton explained. “Since our order management and processing is integrated with Simparel, all information is shared. It is an exciting time, and we are enjoying the results so far.” — Deena M. Amato-McCoy Kokatat Arcana, Calif. | www.kokatat.com NOMINATED BY: Self emember what it was like when you were a kid, and you had to get up in the middle of the night to visit the bathroom, and you were wearing your one-piece footie pajamas? That’s a bit akin to the experience of an avid kayaking enthusiast who wears a onepiece dry suit to stay comfortable and un-soaked during a kayaking expedition. Full-body dry suits have traditionally been one piece, because when you try to stay dry using separate tops and bottoms, it’s nearly impossible, says Jeff Turner, sales manager. “Water finds its way in.” Kokatat would know. The company, which got its start in 1971 as a backpacking and bicycling shop in Arcata, Calif., and moved into wholesaling outdoor apparel and gear to companies such as REI, eventually decided to focus exclusively on paddle sports apparel after a lawsuit brought against the company — then called Blue Puma — by sportswear company Puma forced it to make a decision about its direction. “It was the best thing that ever happened to us,” says Steve O’Meara, president and co-founder. The company decided to be a big fish in the small pond of kayaking products R 42 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com instead of a small fish in the big pond of outerwear apparel, a move that honed its focus on perfecting apparel for its niche. Since that time, the company has been improving upon paddle sportswear, experimenting with different materials and sealing methods, and thanks to Kokatat, today the in-and-out challenges of the one-piece dry suit are history. With its newly launched GORE-TEX Idol dry suit, Kokatat has kept the crucial goal — staying dry — of the onepiece intact, while solving the problems that come with having to fully remove the suit. How did it do that? Rather than incorporating a zipper than runs vertically from top to bottom on the torso or the back, the Idol incorporates a fully separating, waterproof, SwitchZip system that circles the waist, eliminating the torso zipper and allowing for maximum freedom of movement, says Matt Porter, who can be seen explaining the finer points of the company’s kayaking apparel in a series of videos on the company’s web site. “The zipper placement sits between the back band and the seat, and below the skirt so as not to interfere with boat outfitting,” he notes. TOP INNOVATORS Additionally, the top can be worn separately as a dry top, with the zipper flap folding over the chain of the zipper to protect it when it’s in use in this manner. “The SwitchZip acts as the entry zipper and release zipper in one, allowing men and women to have front and rear relief,” he adds. An Idol will run you about $1,000, which is quite a bargain, given its 2-in-1 feature. As Turner explains, a drysuit and a dry top together will typically run you about $1,500, but because the Idol can also be worn as a dry top, there’s no need to have both. Each Idol, like all of its drysuits, is tested for leaks and guaranteed to remain completely dry for the lifetime of the suit. The Idol also features 3-layer Evolution GORETEX® Pro Shell fabric, used in combination with 330 Cordura® GORE-TEX® Pro Shell in areas of high abrasion. When problems do arise, Kokatat has a repair and service facility in California (and recently opened one in the UK for its European customers) offering services ranging from gasket replacement and water testing to leak repair and retrofitting. The ISO-9001 company is a stand-out in the industry, with about 60 percent of Kokatat’s revenues coming from recreational apparel and the other 40 percent from apparel and gear manufactured for the military, a venture that got its start after GORE-TEX saw the advances Kokatat was making in its products and sought it out as a partner for a project with the Navy Seals. Kokatat products also are almost entirely Made-in-the-USA at the company’s Arcata factory, which employs 150. (Some environmentally friendly Gaia® PVC-free flotation foam that it uses in its life vests comes from Asia.) Keeping production close at hand allows the company to control quality while also focusing on continued research and development, says Turner. The Idol has already received accolades from “Gear Junkie,” being recognized as “Best of Show” at the 2014 Summer Outdoor Retailer. “It is a game changer!” he concludes. — Jordan K. Speer Hatley Lasalle, Quebec | www.hatley.com NOMINATED BY: Visual 2000 International | www.visual-2000.com omeone should remind Hatley — the LaSalle, Quebec-based retailer known for its whimsical kid’s clothing and 100 percent cotton pants — that it’s not a billion-dollar corporation. Because it’s sure behaving like one. Hatley maintains 3,200 points-of-sale worldwide, mostly with key wholesale partners such as Nordstrom, John Lewis in the United Kingdom and Australia’s David Jones, though it sells to high-end children’s boutiques as well. The company runs 16 of its own retail stores in Canada, constantly expanding to new locations such as Montreal International Airport, and operates an e-commerce site that drives about 3 percent of the business. Hatley has plans to open retail franchises in New Zealand and distributorships in South Africa, while Australia and mainland Europe are its biggest growth markets. In 2007, the Canadian government created the Duty Deferral Program (DDP) to help corporations, and especially large automotive companies, operate more efficiently, says Jeremy Oldland, CEO of Hatley, which expects to do about $42 million in revenue this year. In essence, net exporters — companies that, for example, import 100 owl- S emblazoned onesies into the country but ultimately ship the majority of those units for sale abroad — are spared from paying duties on products not destined for the Canadian market. “It’s sort of a personal free-trade zone,” Oldland explains. Being able to take advantage of the DDP requires very sophisticated systems and software, so Hatley turned to Visual 2000 for assistance developing the End-2-End platform that tracks vital information such as import numbers of units shipped into Canada along with the currency exchange rate for the import date. If a unit sells in Canada six months after import, Hatley pays the duty based on the exchange rate on the day it was imported. If the unit is further exported for sale, Hatley notifies the Canadian government that the unit has left the country and thus skips out on duties altogether. “When you’re importing millions of dollars of product, the later you can avoid paying your duties, the less you’re going to pay because you borrow money to pay for duties,” notes Oldland. “We save a ton on interest every year,” he continues. “It’s much more efficient for cash flow.” Case in point: Canada levies an 18 percent duty on garments, while similar tariffs in the United States and some other countries are considerably lower. Using the End-2-End platform, Hatley established subsidiary companies in Australia, United Kingdom, and the United States without setting up multiple warehouses, affording a competitive advantage over similar enterprises that rely on a distributed warehouse model rather than a centralized one. Hatley finds that duties factor into myriad areas of its business. It recently added international shipping to its e-commerce site, relying again on data from End-2-End as well as UPS for what duties and taxes would be appropriate to charge. “We charge a $35 flat fee for shipping and a flat 20 percent for duties and taxes,” explains Oldland. “That’s a lot of money, but when you’re buying $300 to $400 of kids’ clothing, it does amortize pretty quickly.” — Jessica Binns www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2015 43 TOP INNOVATORS Topson Downs Culver City, Calif. | www.topsondowns.com NOMINATED BY: California Fashion Association | calfashion.org opson Downs may be a private-label supplier, but thanks to its strong passion and “a branded mindset,” it strives to solidify customer connections that tend to be synonymous only with brand names. Its recent acquisition of Rachel Roy is enabling the manufacturer to pursue this branded business strategy, while diversifying its portfolio. “Private label — or private brand as our retailers refer to it — is a vibrant segment in apparel,” said Danny Abramovitch, the company’s director of sales. “It creates options for customers — both retail customers and end-use customers.” Since its debut in 1971, the company has been committed to creating trend-right product, taking time to really understand the marketplace and listen to its customers’ needs, says Abramovitch. Within its own four walls, the company has employed the same nurturing and attentive environment, which he says is a “key differentiator” for the business. “This marketplace insight has helped the company create goods that reflect fashion at a great value.” “Today’s customer is more informed than ever, and she wants the newest trend almost instantaneously,” Abramovitch said. “While private label can be considered disruptive to brands, when you approach it from a place of integrity and strategy, it becomes a companion to brands.” Enter the Rachel Roy brand, formerly operating under The Jones Group, which became a Topson Downs property in the summer of 2014, when the manufacturer purchased a majority equity stake in the designer’s company, and gave a new home to the brand’s six-year-old team dedicated to design, merchandising, sales, production, in-store development and marketing. Rachel Roy maintains 100 percent control of her name, while Topson Downs is responsible for developing marketing and licensing the brand. The manufacturer also created a new branded head office for Rachel Roy in the heart of New York City’s fashion district. T 44 MAY 2015 • www.apparelmag.com Rachel Roy’s overarching creative vision is contributing to Topson Downs’ strategy to focus on brands via innovation and a focus on the customer, and it also gives the company an opportunity to be involved with a direct-to-consumer business. “This acquisition is the first step in our branded strategy: partnering with businesses where we can add our expertise to fuel long-term growth.” Building off of a successful ready-to-wear category, Topson Downs is expanding the brand’s matrix to include footwear and accessories, followed by lifestyle-driven categories such as home and beauty,” says Abramovitch. The company is also planning a Rachel Roy e-commerce channel, investing in a new commerce platform and back-end functionality that will help create an engaging and effortless brand experience, Abramovitch said. “The digital world is highly competitive, but we see it as a huge opportunity to interact directly with the consumer, and offer her the widest assortment of Rachel Roy product with excellent customer service.” Since launching Rachel Roy, Topson Downs is enjoying “a healthy and growing business,” and is looking forward to building momentum in the brand in a calculated and strategic way. “It’s important that we nurture and protect the brand, and concentrate on the projects and categories that will add value both from brand and monetary points-of-view,” he added. “We are striking a delicate balance between our private label and branded businesses. That said, we are always open to conversations and opportunities to add to our portfolio, but we are extremely disciplined about those opportunities. It has to be the right fit, not only for the executive team, but for our entire organization.” — Deena M. Amato-McCoy