inside - News

indulge
exploring food + drink
in the yamhill valley may 2015
carlton
corners
declared
champion
INSIDE
YAMHILL VALLEY
BURGE R
BRACKET
the rise of great local breads
2nd generation vintners
plus dining, happy hour and memorial day wine guides
A DISCOVER YAMHILL VALLEY PUBLICATION
See more at YamhillValley.com
2 indulge MAY 2015
table of
contents
GUIDES: DINING GUIDE 5
HAPPY HOUR GUIDE 16
MEMORIAL DAY WEEKEND WINE TASTING HOURS 27
RATIONS: THE WILD YAM 6
AROUND THE VALLEY 8
THE RISE OF GREAT LOCAL BREADS 10
SEASON OF MARKETS 15
CUISINE:
DINING OUT FAMILY-STYLE 18
BURGER BRACKET 24
LIBATIONS: SECOND GENERATION VINTNERS 28
BREW NEWS 30
THE SPIRIT OF WEST VALLEY 32
CELLAR DWELLER 38
1882 Grille // McMinnville
PUBLISHER
Jeb Bladine
EDITOR
Ossie Bladine
WRITERS
Ossie Bladine
Tom Henderson
Karl Klooster
Matt Meador
Rockne Roll
SALES REPRESENTATIVES
Terry Conlon // Rebecca Garcia
Kelly Hyder // Rebekah Spear
PUBLICATION DESIGNER
Teri Gunn
GRAPHIC ARTISTS
Holly Douglas // Teri Gunn
Amber McAlary // Kathey Sweeney
COVER PHOTO
Carlton Corners // Carlton
By Rockne Roll
503-687-1256
©2015 The News-Register
Publishing Co.
PO Box 727
McMinnville, OR 97128
Printed at Oregon Lithoprint, Inc.
All featured photos are property of the
News-Register Publishing Company.
indulge MAY 2015 3
4 indulge MAY 2015
dining guide
amity /
mcminnville / (cont.)
GREAT HARVEST BREAD COMPANY
1135 SW Baker St, McMinnville
mcminnville / (cont.)
THE SAGE RESTAURANT
406 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
THE BLUE GOAT
506 S Trade St, Amity
503.835.5170
AmityBlueGoat.com
GROCERY OUTLET OF MCMINNVILLE
568 NE Hwy 99W, McMinnville
SANDWICH EXPRESS
711 N Hwy 99W, McMinnville
carlton /
HAAGENSON'S CATERING
575 NE 2nd St, McMinnville
503.472.1309
HaagensonsCatering.com
SOUPER SANDWICH HUT
1250 SE Booth Bend Rd, McMinnville
CARLTON CORNERS
150 N Yamhill St, Carlton
HARVEST FRESH GROCERY & DELI
251 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
503.472.5740
HarvestFresh.com
BLUE RAEVEN FARMSTAND
20650 S Hwy 99W, Amity
BARREL 47
111 Ww Main St, Carlton
FARMERS’ PLATE AND PANTRY
119 W Main St, Carlton
grand ronde /
CEDAR PLANK BUFFET
AT SPIRIT MOUNTAIN CASINO
27100 SW Salmon River Hwy
Grand Ronde
800.760.7977
SpiritMountain.com
LEGENDS RESTAURANT
AT SPIRIT MOUNTAIN CASINO
27100 SW Salmon River Hwy,
Grand Ronde
800.760.7977
SpiritMountain.com
mcminnville /
1882 GRILLE
645 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
503.857.0457
KaosMac.com
3RD STREET PIZZA CO.
433 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
CORNERSTONE COFFEE
216 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
GEM CREOLE SALOON
236 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
503.883.9194
McMinnvilleGem.com
GOLDEN VALLEY BREWERY
& RESTAURANT
980 NE 4th St, McMinnville
503.472.BREW
GoldenValleyBrewery.com
HONEST CHOCOLATES
575 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
LA RAMBLA RESTAURANT AND BAR
238 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
503.435.2126
LaRamblaOnThird.com
LAUGHING BEAN BISTRO
2274 SW 2nd St, McMinnville
MAZATLAN MEXICAN RESTAURANT
2714 N Hwy 99W, McMinnville
503.472.9771
MCMENAMINS
310 NE Evans St, McMinnville
503.472.8427
McMenamins.com
MCMINNVILLE DOWNTOWN
FARMERS MARKET
Cowls St between 2nd and 3rd,
McMinnville
DowntownMcMinnville.com
THE BARBERRY
645 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
THE GRAIN STATION BREW WORKS
755 NE Alpine St, Ste 200, McMinnville
503.687.BREW
GrainStation.com
newberg /
NORTHWEST FRESH SEAFOOD
611 N Main St, Newberg
RECIPE A NEIGHBORHOOD KITCHEN
115 N Washington St, Newberg
RUDDICK / WOOD
720 E 1st St, Newberg
503.487.6133
RuddickWood.com
SUBTERRA RESTAURANT
1505 Portland Rd, Newberg
503.538.6060
SubterraRestaurant.com
willamina /
FORT HILL RESTAURANT
25695 Salmon River Hwy (Exit 25),
Willamina
503.876.7624
FortHillRestaurant.com
MUCHAS GRACIAS
220 NE 12th St, McMinnville
503.434.6367
MuchasGraciasMexicanRestaurant.com
NESE DELZELL PRIVATE CHEF
503.857.9423
PARKWAY NATURAL FOODS
1351 NE Hwy 99W, McMinnville
RIBSLAYER TO GO
575 NE 2nd St, McMinnville
503.472.1309
Ribslayer.com
indulge MAY 2015 5
the wild yam
Since May is
National Burger
Month, now is
a fitting time to announce the winner of
the first ever Yamhill
Valley Burger Bracket
— see page 24 for
the whole story.
From the outset,
OSSIE BLADINE
we called it a friendly is editor of the
culinary competition.
News-Register.
He has two
It all concluded with
thumbs and
two establishments
loves tacos
that certainly embraced geniality.
It was great fun
for us to follow how people voted.
There were many hopefuls that narrowly missed being voted into the
bracket of 16, causing me to wonder,
if we do it again next year, should
the field be expanded to 32?
Among the matchups were small
town battles, brew pubs against dive
bars and casual diners against renowned farm-to-fork style eateries.
6 indulge MAY 2015
Sure, it's all a popularity contest,
with online voting partly being driven
by people encouraging friends via
social media to vote for a particular
restaurant. There is, however, truth in
that popularity.
By winning the burger bracket,
Carlton Corners can no longer call
itself a hidden gem of the valley. The
secret is out. With affordable pricing,
tasty food and a homey atmosphere,
it's not surprising the gas station restaurant triumphed over all.
During the course of the six-week
competition, I set out to try a number
of burgers in the bracket. (Needless
to say, some added exercise was
called for, as well.)
It's a fine way to tour the many
wonderful aspects of the local food
scene.
If I had to name a favorite, I might
give the nod to the Block House Café
in Dayton — something about that
homemade bun that makes it standout. But, really, it's way too difficult of
a call for me to comfortably make.
...
This is year two of Indulge
Magazine. We've added an August
issue, making it a quarterly publication if you count the Discover Yamhill
Valley Visitor Guide published in
March.
With so much around the Valley
food and drink scene to report on, I
see no reason why this publication
won't continue to grow. I'd love to
offer a bi-monthly, or even monthly,
celebration of the fine wines, diverse
culinary experience and impressive
agriculture that supports everything.
We are always looking for interesting stories and different angles to
take — like happy hour guides, cheap
eats, chef features, and news and
notes about the local industries.
Please enjoy the third installment
of Indulge Magazine. And if you'd like
to suggest a story or provide opinions
of any kind, please email them to
indulge@yamhillvalley.com
Cheers!
Add PIE to your
Memorial Day BBQ
Order Our
Gourmet
Boxed Lunches
Perfect to take wine tasting!
Pie fixes everything!
Fresh Produce • Jams • Jellies •
Berries & Syrups • PIES
503-835-0740 • 20650 S. Hwy. 99W • Amity
BlueRaevenFarmstand.com
HOMESTYLE
BREAKFAST
& LUNCH!
Box lunches include sandwich, salad and cookie.
Our full service deli offers fast service for dine-in,
takeout or catering. We feature artisan breads,
gourmet, local cheeses, delicious meats and a
wide assortment of salads and desserts.
Call ahead - we’ll have it ready for you.
2274 SW 2nd,
McMinnville
503-883-9628
Mon-Sun 6:30am-9pm
Harvest Fresh
Grocery & Deli
251 NE Third St • 503-472-5740 • HarvestFresh.com
indulge MAY 2015 7
around the valley
KAOS comes to life in
downtown McMinnville
The long-anticipated development
KAOS opened to the public this
month. Located on the north end of
Third Street in downtown McMinnville,
the three-story building is home to a
fine dining restaurant, a rooftop pub
and wine village.
Opened just ‘daze’ before the UFO
festival, the 1882 Grille gives the
downtown its second rooftop bar and
eatery. The Grille offers both indoor
and outdoor seating and features
tavern as well as bistro-style burgers,
wood-fired pizza, signature sandwiches, unique appetizers, finger food and
other pub favorites. The bar has more
than a dozen taps serving a variety of
beer and two flatscreens for watching
the game.
Opened about a week late, The
Barberry is on the ground floor with
patio seating. The menu celebrates
Northwest flavors and is packed with
protein, serving at least four cuts of
steak at all times and other meaty
favorites like elk, buffalo, game birds
and more.
Both restaurants are managed by
Dustin Wyant, co-owner of Recipe - A
Neighborhood Kitchen in Newberg.
For hours and more information,
visit kaosmac.com.
shortly after moving to Newberg from
Kaneohe, Hawaii. The family plans
to continue operating its food cart at
popular events around the area.
The restaurant is open Tuesday
through Saturday, 10:30 a.m. to 7
p.m. Visit tasteof808.com for more
information.
New wine shop in Newberg
All-American book signing
Valley Wine Merchants is now
operating at 112 S College St. in
Newberg. The retail shop's shelves
are stocked with 200-plus Oregon
pinot noirs and much more. It also
hosts a series of "Pop-Up Tasting
Room" events. For more visit
valleywinemerchants.com
Taste of 808 expands in the 503
Yamhill County has its first brickand-mortar Hawaiian restaurant when
Taste of 808 opened in April at 203
Villa Road in Newberg.
It’s an expansion of the business
that Alvin and Verlie began in 2010
Simon Majumdar, chef and writer,
author of Fed, White, and Blue:
Finding America with My Fork, will
hold a book signing at Third Street
Oil & Vinegar in McMinnville on June
22 from 1 to 3 p.m.
Majumdar has appeared as a judge
on Food Network shows Cutthroat
Kitchen and Iron Chef America.
For his most recent book, the
England-native journeyed across the
United States in advance of becoming
a citizen to explore the many diverse
food cultures within the country.
— Discover Yamhill Valley
503.835.5170 amitybluegoat.com
506 s. trade st., amity, or
Lunch and Dinner
Wednesday – Sunday
Sunday Brunch 10-2
Inspired NW cuisine
celebrating local farmers
Local beer, wine, spirits,
specialty cocktails
8 indulge MAY 2015
indulge MAY 2015 9
the rise
of great local breads
BY STARLA POINTER
Of the News-Register
Bread can be the foundation on
which you build your sandwich, a
hunk to dunk into your soup or a
snack to savor on its own, maybe
with a smear of Rose Valley butter or
a slice of Oregon cheese.
And lucky us. It's easy to find fine,
flavorful bread fresh out of a local
oven.
Fill your picnic basket with a hearty
multi-grain loaf from Red Fox Bakery
or a seed-filled Dakota round from
Great Harvest. Grab some Tillamook
cheese and a French-style baguette
from Carlton Bakery as you head out
on a round of winetasting. Tuck your
favorite sandwich fillings between
slices of cheddar jalapeño bread from
Sandwich Express or buttermilk potato
bread from the Crescent Café so you
can enjoy lunch in the park or at your
desk.
Harvest Fresh and local chain
supermarkets also offer a wide selection of breads these days, often
baked — although not mixed — on site.
Flavored with herbs, olives or asiago
cheese, they also make a fine addition to a picnic or dinner party.
Here are some vendors to consider
when you're looking for your next
lovely loaf.
Red Fox Bakery
A fixture of downtown McMinnville,
Red Fox offers European-style breads
made from scratch. Starting well in
advance, its bakers allows baguettes
and loaves a long, slow rise before
sliding them into a hot oven, producing a crusty exterior and fluffy interior,
according to owner Christina "Chrissy"
Buck.
"Each dough has a different
texture...It's fun to see it come
out of the oven, so beautiful."
Buck, who worked at Red Fox for
seven years before purchasing the
business last June, said the bakery
uses no preservatives or artificial
sweeteners. Except for the popular
buttermilk golden raisin and some
seasonal loaves, its breads contain
no dairy products, either.
In addition to the raisin bread, Red
Fox's daily offerings include oblong
multi-grain loaves and baguettes and
batards made from the same dough.
Specials include rye, ciabatta or
sourdough.
Multi-grain is most popular, Buck
said.
In addition to selling loaves, the
bakery slices them to serve with its
soups or salads. The array of breads
also is available as sandwiches.
Loaves often sell out, so get there
early for the best selection. Prices
range from $1.65 for a demi baguette
or $3 for a full baguette into the $5
to $6 range for specialty loaves.
The bakery has a special four-deck
oven with different heat levels, depending on where loaves are placed.
Bakers watch the breads, add steam
and rotate them within the oven to
produce the perfect crust, Buck said.
"There's an art to it," she said.
"Every baker's bread is a reflection of
them — the texture, the look, depends
on their personality."
Buck said Red Fox employees start
mixing "flour, yeast, water and love"
a full day early to allow time for the
protracted rising.
The first baker arrives at 2 a.m.
to start shaping and baking loaves.
Other bakers arrive a few hours later
to keep the bread production cycle
going and begin making pastries.
Buck shapes loaves and does
some of the baking. She enjoys it.
"Each dough has a different
texture," she said. "It's fun to see it
come out of the oven, so beautiful."
Red Fox, located at 328 N.E.
Evans St., is open from 7 a.m. to 4
p.m. Monday through Saturday. Lunch
is served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
daily.
The bakery recently started offering breakfast, as well, from 8 to 10:30
a.m. Wednesday through Saturday.
Sandwich Express
Sandwich Express, located at 711
N.E. Highway 99W, has been baking its own bread to use in-house for
sandwiches and soup bowls for two
decades. Two years ago, founder and
owner Matthew Primbs added loaves
to take home, along with a selection
of pastries.
10 indulge MAY 2015
A bread basket at Red Fox Bakery // Marcus Larson
Honey wheat, white, rye, sourdough and cheddar jalapeño loaves
are available daily. Seasonal favorites,
such as cinnamon chip, appear on the
menu from time to time.
While Primbs favors the sourdough,
honey wheat and cheddar jalapeno
are the most popular with customers. Many people stop by just to buy
bread, while others pick up a loaf
after having breakfast or lunch.
The pan breads, shaped for slicing
to make sandwiches, run $2.99 to
$3.49. An array of cookies, brownies, scones and other items also is
available.
"We do our own so it
will be fresh, taste
good and be consistent."
All the pastries and breads, including loaves of bread used for
the shop's sandwiches, are made
from scratch daily. Primbs, a former
teacher, developed his own recipes
using fresh, natural ingredients.
"Good bread is so important," he
said. "With sandwiches, it's the first
thing you bite into.
// Marcus Larson
"We do our own so it will be fresh,
taste good and be consistent. That
shows the dedication of our bakers."
Primbs said his bread baker starts
in the middle of the night in order to
make enough fresh dough for loaves
ready when the restaurant opens.
Other bakers work on pastries.
McMinnville's Sandwich Express
is open from 6:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to
9 p.m. Saturday and 9 a.m. to
8 p.m. Sunday. There's also a
location in Newberg.
/ more on page 12 /
indulge MAY 2015 11
/ continued from page 11 /
Great Harvest Bread Co.
Bill and Nancy Cunningham worked
in the corporate world for years. In
2008, they switched to a career that
would make themselves and others
happy — baking bread.
" It's artisan bread, the
freshest you can get...
It's the way our
grandmother baked,
but on a larger scale."
The McMinnville Great Harvest, located at 1135 S.W. Baker St., is one
of about 200 members of a loosely
affiliated national cooperative. The
couple said they like the cooperative's
outlook on helping communities in
which the stores are located, as well
as its outlook on bread.
"It's artisan bread, the freshest you
can get," said Bill Cunningham, who
rises at 3 a.m. to start the lengthy
process of making bread from scratch.
He, his wife and their staff grind
wheat into healthful whole-grain flour.
They add yeast, water, honey and
other ingredients, such as cheeses,
dried fruit, herbs, pumpkin seeds, flax
and jalapeño peppers — all local or
state-sourced, if possible. After kneading the dough by hand, then shaping it, they finish the loaves in a hot
oven.
"It's the way our grandmother
baked, but on a larger scale," Nancy
Cunningham said.
Several types of the soft breads
are available every day, including rye,
sourdough, cinnamon chip and their
top-sellers, honey wheat and Dakota.
Other varieties, such as challah or
cinnamon raisin, are baked on specific
days.
The bread comes in rectangular or
round loaves. Multiple varieties are
available in each shape.
The Cunninghams also offer baguettes, rolls and novelty shapes at
times. And their bunny breads were
popular at Easter.
The Cunninghams have also developed loaves and muffins that fit the
Paleo diet. At the other end of the
spectrum are several sweet, non-yeast
breads, such as peanut butter chocolate chip, offered seasonally.
Their newest offering are "GlutenX"
breads, made without gluten but
produced in an environment that
contains flour. While they don't meet
the requirements of a celiac, who's
allergic to gluten, the GlutenX loaves
are perfect for people who've chosen
to go gluten-free for other reasons.
The schedule is available at the
restaurant. It can also be found online
at www.greatharvestmcminnville.com.
If you're in the store, you can't
help noticing when a new batch is
ready. "Monkey bread, out of the
oven!" the baker cries, removing a
tray of spicy loaves.
Other staff members chorus,
"Monkey bread, out of the oven!" And
customers drool.
Luckily, Great Harvest offers samples. Everyone who walks through the
door is offered a chance to try a slice
of whatever's available at the time.
Great Harvest is open from 8 a.m.
to 7 p.m. Monday and Saturday,
6:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday through
Friday, and 9:30 a.m.to 5 p.m.
Sunday. It offers pastries, sandwiches
and salads as well as loaves of
bread.
Yamhill County’s exclusive
micro-coffee roaster.
Check in store & on Facebook for
music, events & specials.
• Open 7am-9pm Daily
• Custom Roasted Coffee
• New Menu Including Designer Liege Waffles
• Pastries Baked From Scratch Daily
• Fresh Sandwiches and Salads
503-472-6622 | 216 NE 3rd St., Mac
12 indulge MAY 2015
ARTISAN PIZZAS SEASONAL SALADS
CHEF’S INCLUSIVE SUNDAY SUPPER
DAILY DINE-IN, TAKE-OUT
SPECIALS & CATERING
SATURDAY & LOCAL & IMPORTED
SUNDAY BRUNCH BEER & WINE
TRADITIONAL & SEASONAL COCKTAILS
Bring in this ad for $5 off $20 or more!
119 West Main Street, Carlton • 503-899-8731
www.farmersplateandpantry.com
Radically Fresh
SEAFOOD
Providing chefs
with the
Freshest Seafood
in the Northwest.
We’re open
to the public, too!
Walk-ins
welcome.
611 N Main Street, Newberg 503.538.4555
NorthwestFreshSeafood.com
indulge MAY 2015 13
RIBSLAYER BBQ TO GO
FOLLOW YOUR NOSE
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Since 1988

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HOURS: Tuesday - Saturday | 11 - 7pm
PH: (503) 472-1309
575 NE Second St, McMinnville
www.ribslayer.com
HAAGENSON’S
CATERING
Full-Service Catering
Custom Menus
Seasonal Platters
Whole Hog Roasts
BBQ Catering
Corporate Events
Parrillado
We now offer local wines
from Yamhill Valley
Vineyards
When you want a satisfying
and authentic Mexican dining
experience, come to Mazatlan
Mexican Restaurant. We offer
a full menu of mouthwatering
Mexican specialties, all prepared
with the freshest ingredients
available. Full bar, catering
services and banquet rooms.
Come in to see our daily specials.
Family Events
Weddings
www.haagensonscatering.com
50% OFF
Buy 1 combo & 2 Beverages, get a
2nd combo 1/2 OFF!
Half-off combo of equal or lesser value.
Max discount $7.00
Limit 2 coupons valid per group. Valid through 7/31/2015
503.472.9771
2714 N Hwy 99W • McMinnville • Find us on Facebook!
14 indulge MAY 2015
From left, John Sully of Bernards Farm sells produce to Angela Bekofsky, Kim Gerhart, Madison Gerhart and Mackenzie Bekofsky
during the first day of the 2014 McMinnville Farmers Market, which begins this year on May 21. // Marcus Larson
season of markets
BY NICOLE MONTESANO
Of the News-Register
Farmers markets supply fresh, locally grown produce
around the county, usually on Saturdays, although there
are also Wednesday and Thursday afternoon markets.
Most are open only from late spring through early fall, but
one market in McMinnville operates year-round.
Offerings may include fresh vegetables, fruit, flowers,
honey and vegetable starts. Depending on the market,
there may also be locally-grown flour, locally-made bread,
pastries, jams, eggs, meat, cheese, fresh or dried herbs,
specialty food products, and a variety of crafts.
There may be live music, or food vendors, providing a
festival-like atmosphere.
Not every vendor accepts credit cards; it's best to bring
cash. Some are able to deal with food stamps. Although
some booths may provide plastic bags, it's common for
people to bring their own totes or baskets. Don't hesitate
to inquire about bulk purchases for preserving; they may
be available.
The Farmers Market at the Grange in McMinnville is
open from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays, year-round. It
is located at the historic Grange Hall, 1700 S.W. Old
Sheridan Road. Vendors sell organically-grown produce,
honey, frozen fruit, wool, meat, chocolate, skin creams,
clothing, jewelry and crafts. Live music is provided and
fresh bakery products also are available.
The popular McMinnville Thursday Farmers Market is
open from 1 to 6 p.m. on Thursdays. It will begin May
21 this year, and run through Oct. 8. Vendors supply a
variety of produce, plants, meats, cut flowers and crafts.
There is live music and wine tasting. It is held on Cowls
Street between Second and Third streets in downtown
McMinnville.
The Granary District welcomed a new Saturday market last year, open year-round from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Saturdays, near the corner of Alpine and Eighth streets.
The Newberg Farmers Market is located in downtown
Newberg from 1:30 to 6 p.m. Wednesdays, from the last
of May through the end of September. It is in the Cultural
District Pavilion, behind the Newberg Public Library, on
Sheridan Street. Previously, the market operated on
Tuesdays.
The Willamina Farmers Market will be open Saturdays
from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., June 27 through Oct. 3, in a new
location, on C Street, next to Center Market.
indulge MAY 2015 15
happy hour guide
BARREL 47
Happy Hour: Mon–Fri, 2:30–5pm
111 E Main St, Carlton
RUDDICK WOOD
Happy Hour: Tues–Sun, 3–6pm
720 E 1st St, Newberg
Situated in the heart of wine country,
on the corner of Main and Highway 47,
Barrel 47 brings casual dining and
a relaxing environment to Historic
Downtown Carlton.
$1 off all regular food items, beer,
glass wine and well cocktails.
CARLTON CORNERS
Happy Hour: Mon–Sun, 3-6pm
150 N Yamhill St, Carlton
We are the Carlton Growler Boys.
Serving Select Craft Beer and Cider
with American Cuisine at the icinic
Carlton Corners Service Station.
SUBTERRA RESTAURANT
Happy Hour: Mon–Fri, 3–6pm
1505 Portland Rd, Newberg
503-538.6060
SubterraRestaurant.com
Half price on small plates
Wine, beer and drink specials
GOLDEN VALLEY BREWERY
Happy Hour: Daily, 3–6pm
980 NE 4th St, McMinnville
503.472.BREW
GoldenValleyBrewery.com
Happy Hour includes: $3 pints on select
beers, $4 well drinks, and $5 glass on
select wines. Food specials run from
$3 to $6 dollars featuring Fish Tacos,
Angus Springs Ranch Beef sliders, Hot
Wings, mini Pizzas, Chicken Satay, Caesar
Salad, and Putang Fries. Food menu
changes seasonally. Featuring all natural
Angus Beef raised on our family ranch,
10 handcrafted beers on tap, Oregon
wines, full bar, full menu all day. Pub,
dining room, and patio seating available.
16 indulge MAY 2015
GRAIN STATION BREW WORKS
Happy Hour: Sun–Fri, 3–6pm
755 NE Alpine St, Ste 200, McMinnville
In addition to our craft beers brewed on
site, we also offer a hand-picked selection
of local wines and a full lunch and dinner
menu with special dinner entrees. Our
atmosphere is family-friendly, and outside
in our courtyard, dogs are family too.
www.grainstation.com
Thoughtfully Prepared Wine Country Cuisine
Lunch and Dinner, Tue - Sat 11:30am - 9:00pm
Sunday Dinner, 4:00pm - 8:00pm
115 North Washington • Newberg, OR 97132
503-487-6853
www.recipenewbergor.com
indulge MAY 2015 17
dining out
family-style
BY ROCKNE ROLL
Of the News-Register
The comfortable, familiar routine of
Sunday night family dinner around the
kitchen table is far from gone, and at
The Diner in McMinnville, chef Kyle
Chriestenson is happy to provide the
kitchen, the table and (in the form of
fellow diners) the family around it.
Starting at 4 p.m. each Sunday
afternoon, The Diner hosts ‘Sunday
Supper,” Chriestenson’s reinterpretation of a Sunday home-cooked meal.
The fare, which occasionally departs
from The Diner’s typical menu, centers around “just like mom used to
make” dishes.
“It’s usually like fried chicken or
meatloaf or lasagna,” Chriestenson
said. “Sometimes, it will be a roast
and there will be a carved roast out,
whether it’s roasted chicken or roasted
pork loin. There’s almost always some
18 indulge MAY 2015
sort of potato side, whether it’s potatoes au gratin or mashed potatoes,
and vegetables.”
Each dish is served in it’s own
container. A recent visitor for Sunday
supper witnessed the presentation of a large section of homemade meatloaf, generously coated
in Chriestenson’s mustard-infused
traditional meatloaf sauce, a bowl
of mashed potatoes and a bowl of
creamed spinach along with empty
plates for the table.
“It’s sort of a ‘If you don’t like
the Brussels sprouts, don’t eat the
Brussels sprouts’ kind of thing,”
Chriestenson explained.
Just like back home.
His own home was where
Chriestenson had the idea for his
restaurant’s Sunday Supper.
“In my growing up, Sunday
night has always
been a family
night, everybody
was there and
my mom would
make a supper
and serve it. The
whole familystyle idea was to
make it something reminiscent
of my childhood,” he said. “I wanted
to have that sort of something to offer
the community, somewhere you could
go to get together with friends and
family and sit down and have a meal.
The more people you have, the more
fun it is.”
That type of crowd depends on a
variety of factors, but Chriestensen
said that as many as 30 people will
show up, gathered around a long row
of tables in the center of The Diner’s
dining room in such a way that they
could pass for, well, family.
“It’s pretty menu-dependant,”
Chriestenson said of Sunday Supper’s
week-to-week turnout. “Just like anything in the restaurant business, it’s
hard to predict.”
It’s also sometimes hard to guess
how the unsuspecting guest will
react to the unusual event. With The
Diner’s location near a cluster of
hotels, road-weary travelers frequently
wander in around the time Sunday
Supper is being served.
“People come in thinking, ‘Oh, I’ll
see if I can get a cup of soup or a
salad,” and find they can get fried
chicken or meatloaf or something,”
Chriestensen said. “Some are really
excited, and some really want that
cup of soup.”
Kyle Chriestensen, chef at The Diner, started Sunday Supper to provide a weekly gathering place for friends, family and the community at large.
Right, scratch-made meatloaf with mashed potatoes and creamed spinach, served family style. // Rockne Roll
0
A FULL WEEKEND
OF FUN FOR LESS
SAVE $100
Purchase
the Bounty of Yamhill County
A FULL
‘All In’ Package and attend all five
WEEKEND
OF FUN
events for just $450.
FOR LESS
A FULL WEEKEND OF FUN
FOR LESS
FRI
28
Welcome Dinners
7-10 p.m.
Kick off your weekend at one of our trio of Welcome
Dinners. Mix and mingle with fellow attendees and
guest vintners over wine and appetizers before
sitting down to a relaxed three-course meal paired
with the winemakers’ selection of wines.
$110 PER PERSON
Dinner #1
Ruddick/Wood with Owen Roe
Dinner #2
Valley Commissary with Matzinger-Davies
Dinner #3
Community Plate with Dominio IV
Visit www.bountyofyamhillcounty.com for complete
dinner descriptions
SAT
29
Artisan Farm Tours + Lunch
9 a.m. – 3 p.m.
Gather at Stoller Family Estate for coffee before
boarding busses bound for your choice of tour.
Post-tour, return to the Estate for an elegant
seated picnic lunch under a canopy of old oaks,
catered by Bon Appétit and served with Stoller
Family wines.
$90 PER PERSON
SUN
30
Tour #1
Even Pull Farm – sustainable vegetable and
flower farming
Tour #2
Oregon Barrel Works – Oregon’s only cooperage
Tour #3
Maysara Winery – biodynamic winery tour
and tasting
Tour #4
Kookoolan Farms – diversified family farm
and meadery
Visit www.bountyofyamhillcounty.com for complete
tour descriptions
Winery Dinners
6:30-9:30 p.m.
Each worthy of a glossy magazine photo spread,
three Yamhill County wineries welcome you to their
spectacular locations for an intimate evening of
exquisite food and wine. Your evening begins with
a reception and vineyard tour, followed by a
four-course dinner thoughtfully paired with the
host’s wines.
$125 PER PERSON
Winery Dinner #1
Adelsheim Vineyard
with Recipe: A Neighborhood Kitchen
Winery Dinner #2
WillaKenzie Estate
with Subterra - A Wine Cellar Restaurant
Winery Dinner #3
Erath Winery and JORY at The Allison Inn & Spa
Visit www.bountyofyamhillcounty.com for complete
dinner descriptions
Classes + Lunch
10 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Get creative or get active! Start your day with one of
our custom experiences designed to show you
another face of Yamhill County. Each experience
includes lunch and wine.
$75 PER PERSON
Class #1
Herb Wreath Making at Red Ridge Farms
Class #2
En Plein Air Painting with Currents Gallery at
Winter’s Hill Winery
Class #3
Willamette River Paddle + Argyle Winery Picnic
Class #4
Food + Wine Pairing with Wine Country Cooking
Studio + Dobbes Family Estate
Visit www.bountyofyamhillcounty.com for complete
class descriptions
BIG NIGHT
5:30-9:30 p.m.
The weekend’s grand finale! Gather at Sokol
Blosser Winery in the golden light of a late summer
afternoon to celebrate the bounty of Yamhill County
with the vintners, chefs, and farmers who make it
such a culinary wonderland.
$150 PER PERSON
Thank you for supporting YES.
Please take a moment to learn about a few
of our projects:
Bounty of Yamhill County (BOYC) is
the primary fundraiser for the Yamhill
Enrichment Society (YES). YES is a 501(c)3
organization whose mission is to cultivate
cultural enrichment at the community level
with carefully selected projects in arts &
education, food & agriculture, history &
community. A fundamental mission of YES
and BOYC is to get the word out – near
and far – that Yamhill County is an amazing
culinary and agricultural destination.
Books for Babies
Champions the drive toward literacy from birth by welcoming
babies born in McMinnville hospitals with a brand new board book,
and partnering with Dolly Parton’s Imagination Library to send Yamhill
County children ages 0-5 a brand new age-appropriate book in the
mail every month.
Nourish Yamhill Valley
Focuses on building a robust local food economy through supporting
startup projects, including: building a Yamhill County farm-to-school
program; connecting and providing valuable resources to beginning
farmers through the Yamhill Valley Farmer’s Network; and creating a
resource to connect local consumers with local food, the Yamhill Valley
Food Guide.
Music Enrichment for Public School Children
YES supports both the fall and spring Koncert for Kids by bussing all
McMinnville 3rd and 4th graders to concerts, and is a major sponsor
for the McMinnville School District Summer Music Camp.
2015 Bounty of Yamhill County Sponsors
PLATINUM
GOLD
SILVER
BRONZE
Best Kept Secret in
Yamhill County.
Serving Select Craft
Beer and Cider with
Classic American
Cuisine at the iconic
Carlton Corners
Service Station.
On the corner of
Yamhill & Hwy 47
503.852.7439
6:00AM–9:00PM
HAPPY HOURS 3-6PM
Life is
Good on
the Corner
RESTAURANT • PUB • CONVENIENCE STORE
indulge MAY 2015 23
burger
bracket
2015 Champions!
MATTHEW MEADOR
McMinnville, Oregon
If there is one thing Americans love more than sports
events, it’s hamburgers. We decided to combine the
two and host our own single-elimination tournament, the
Yamhill Valley Burger Bracket. We asked readers to
nominate their favorite burger restaurants around the local
land and you responded enthusiastically. The top 16 votegetters would compete for the title of Best Burger in the
Yamhill Valley.
In the first round, Carlton Corners beat Community
Plate and Grain Station Brew Works edged out Jem
100. Golden Valley Brew Pub trounced Burgerville and
the Deluxe Billiard Parlor won over Valley Commissary.
Alf’s Ice Cream & Burgers knocked Archie’s Ice Cream &
Eatery out of the game, while McMenamins Hotel Oregon
advanced over On the Way Café. The Block House beat
24 indulge MAY 2015
The Barlow Room and Barrel 47 dunked The Diner.
The second round witnessed Carlton Corners prevail
over the Grain Station. Golden Valley booted the Deluxe
while Alf’s triumphed over McMenamins and Barrel 47
edged out The Block House.
In the third round, Carlton Corners beat Golden Valley
and Barrel 47 defeated Alf’s.
And then there were two.
Carlton Corners
150 N Yamhill Street, Carlton
503-852-7439
www.carltoncorners.com
With all the jokes about gas station sushi flying around,
the fact that Carlton Corners is a convenience market,
restaurant and, yes, gas station could be fodder for bad
humor. But the menu at the Corners — as locals call it —
is no laughing matter. Carlton Corners is the type of place
where they know your name and what you’ll order when
you walk through the door — the sort of joint that serves
up honest food at an honest price with no backtalk. Well,
maybe a little backtalk.
Vince Larson bought the landmark service station in the
early 1990s and his son, Mike, a lover of great food and
good beer, added the deli side in 2013. Since then, Mike
has built the business into a full-fledged restaurant with an
expansive menu celebrating classic American cuisine. The
Corners is all about seriously great diner food!
Oh, yes, and beer. With nine craft beers and a cider
on tap, the Corners plays host to The Carlton Growler
Boys, complete with Tom Peterson-esque images of Vince
and Mike smiling out from the labels. “I like to stick with
Oregon beers,” says Mike. He rotates the beer selections regularly but tries to keep his proprietary Yamhelas
Westsider brew on tap daily. “It’s great beer, brewed just
for us by Fire Mountain Brew House,” Mike says. Always
community-minded, Mike donates proceeds from the sales
of the Yamhelas Westsider to the popular trail project
bearing its name.
But the real magic at the Corners starts in the kitchen.
With a menu featuring a full range of burgers — including
a veggie burger “for the bad hunter” — the Corners also
sports hearty country breakfasts and popular children’s
selections. “A family of four can come in and eat a great
meal for under 35 dollars,” says Mike. The father/son partnership is planning to remodel and expand the kitchen at
the Corners this summer, adding new items along the way
to the already-good-sized menu.
When asked what burgers the Corners is known for,
assistant manager Sandy Wodarczak said she knows
a family from Corbett who visits just for the mushroom
bacon cheeseburger. “Our regular bacon cheeseburger is
immensely popular, too,” she says. Served with French
fries, tots or sweet potato fries, the burgers at the Corners
are juicy, meaty and mouth-wateringly delicious. Smothered
with Swiss, American, cheddar or pepper jack cheese,
the mushroom bacon cheeseburger is topped with fresh
lettuce, onions and tomatoes and served on a grilled bun.
A strong argument could be made that the secret sauce
served on each Corners burger is the singular item that
perfects each burger, but Mike is picky about all his ingredients. “We use only choice Angus beef,” says Mike. “And
our bacon is center-cut and thick.”
Menus proclaim it all the time but, at the Corners, it’s
true: the burgers practically melt in your mouth. And that’s
why Carlton Corners has earned the title Best Burger in
the Yamhill Valley. “We’re way more than just a gas station,” says Mike.
Carlton Corners is open Monday through Saturday from
6:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. and Sunday from 7:00 a.m. to 8:00
p.m. The grill shuts down half an hour before closing time.
Burger meals run from seven to eight dollars, and the rest
of the menu is priced similarly.
Barrel 47
111 E Main Street, Carlton
503-852-3047
www.barrel47.com
In the 1990s, a legendary eatery called the Log Cabin
Restaurant and Lounge burned to the ground in Carlton.
Twenty years later, people still talk of the exceptional
hamburgers that were offered there. When Andy Rabung
transformed an old bank into Barrel 47, even he — born
and raised in Alaska — had heard of Log Cabin’s fabled
food. So Andy decided to pay homage to the king of all
Log Cabin burgers.
“It’s our reincarnation of the Log Cabin Logger Burger,”
says waitress Bonnie Ingham, describing Barrel 47’s
Barrel Burger. Served between special-ordered six-inch
buns, the Barrel Burger is ten ounces of premium Carlton
Farms beef, wrapped in bacon and cooked exactly to
order. Topped with ham, more bacon, a fried egg and fat
The preparation and final presentation of the bacon cheeseburger at Carlton Corners // Rockne Roll
/ more on page 26 /
indulge MAY 2015 25
/ continued from page 25 /
mushrooms, this meaty masterpiece is held together by virtue of
its melted Swiss and cheddar cheeses. It’s then topped with lettuce, tomato, red onion, pickle and special burger sauce. A pile
of shoestring-cut fries topped with Parmesan cheese is the perfect
accompaniment.
The Barrel Burger is truly massive. “We call it the teenage boy
burger,” says Bonnie. “They’re the only ones who can finish it.”
In addition to awesome hamburgers, Barrel 47 features sandwiches of substance and dinner entrées like prime rib and bangers
and mash, in addition to salads, appetizers and desserts. A full bar
featuring many local wines and craft brews provides the perfect
accompaniment to any Barrel 47 meal. Although the hefty Barrel
Burger is priced at $17, most other menu selections are in the ten
to twelve dollar range.
You can try your own Barrel Burger at Barrel 47 on Monday and
Tuesday from 2:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.; Wednesday and Thursday
from 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.; Friday and Saturday from 11:00 a.m.
to 11:00 p.m. and Sunday from 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.
It’s unlikely that the owners of Carlton Corners and Barrel 47
— located only about a block apart — will let the results of the
Yamhill Valley Burger Bracket cause a rift. In fact, Andy and Mike
are friends who get together for a weekly round of golf, taking their
good-natured rivalry to a more personal level. “We know that we
each offer great food and our mutual success contributes to the
vitality of Carlton,” says Andy.
It’s not just Carlton. Indeed, that amiable spirit permeates the
entire Yamhill Valley, putting us on the map for good living — and
good eating.
26 indulge MAY 2015
The Barrel Burger at Barrel 47 // Rockne Roll
the tastiest
american
experiment
As the United States grew from unpretentious beginnings, the pace of life
steadily became faster. When an increasingly industrialized society found its time
for food preparation dwindling, measures
were taken to speed up the process of
creating and consuming complete meals.
An easy-to-make-and-eat concoction, the
hamburger, was born.
Although the exact origins of the humble
hamburger are murky, many sources agree
that the ubiquitous staple was first created
in its modern form in the late 1800s or
early 1900s. Some sources credit Germany
with initially introducing a form of minced
steak which evolved into today’s ground
beef. German sailors shared their culinary
customs when they disembarked at faraway ports. The meat’s popularity grew.
Many historians agree that the “first
hamburger sandwich” was created around
the time of the 1904 World’s Fair in St.
Louis. But they’re split on narrowing it
down further — some credit a Texas cook
and others the founder of the eastern
White Castle chain. Additional records
seem to bestow the honor on a number of obscure smalltown cooks across
the American heartland. It’s entirely possible that more than one person in more
than one location had similar ideas
simultaneously.
However you look at it, the hamburger
is as American as baseball and apple pie,
in spite of its Germanic etymology. And
like so many other American icons, the
hamburger possesses the exuberance and
showcases the willingness to experiment
defining us as a nation.
Of course, in 2015, our need to rush
has grown worse. We still seek out solutions to our increasingly-strained schedules
and — unlike those who lived a century
ago — we’ve got microwaves and all the
over-processed, over-packaged snacks that
accompany them. But hamburgers are here
to stay. Compared to some food options,
they’re looking downright healthy these
days.
Matthew Meador
McMinnville, Oregon
memorial day weekend
wine tasting hours
amity / mcminnville
BROOKS WINES
May 23–25 (11am–5pm)
21101 SE Cherry Blossom Lane, Amity
503.435.1278
BrooksWine.com
ELIZABETH CHAMBERS CELLAR
Open daily (Noon–5pm)
455 Irvine St, McMinnville
503.412.9765 ElizabethChambersCellar.com
EYRIE VINEYARD
May 23–25 (Noon–4pm)
935 NE 10th Ave, McMinnville
IOTA CELLARS
May 23–24 (11am–5pm)
7895 SE Amity Rd, Amity
503.507.8063 (Call or text)
iotaCellars.com
MYSTIC WINES
May 23–24 (Noon–5pm)
11931 Hood View Rd, Amity
WILLAMETTE VALLEY VINEYARDS
IN MCMINNVILLE
May 22,23, 25 (11am–6pm)
May 24 (Noon–6pm)
300 NE 3rd St, McMinnville
carlton / gaston / yamhill
CARLTON HILL VINEYARD
May 24 (Noon–5pm)
11511 NW Cummins Rd, Carlton
ELK COVE VINEYARDS
May 22–25 (10am–5pm)
27751 NW Olson Rd, Gaston
KRAMER VINEYARDS
Daily 11am–5pm
26830 NW Olson Rd, Gaston
MONKSGATE VINEYARD
May 22–24 (Noon–5pm)
9500 NE Oak Springs Farm Rd, Carlton
503.437.3727
MonksGate.com
^
carlton / gaston / yamhill (cont.)
PLUM HILL VINEYARDS
May 22, 23, 25 (11am–6pm)
May 24 (Noon–6pm)
6505 SW Old Hwy 47, Gaston
503.359.4706
PlumHillWine.com
SILTSTONE WINES
May 22–24 (Noon–5pm)
213 S Pine St,Carlton
STAG HOLLOW WINES
AND VINEYARDS
May 23–24 (11am–5pm)
May 25 (Noon–4pm)
7930 NE Blackburn Rd, Yamhill
503.662.5609
StagHollow.com
STONE GRIFFON VINEYARD
May 21–24 (11am–6pm)
223 W Main St, Carlton
971.237.1045
StoneGriffonVineyard.com
TROON VINEYARD
May 21–24 (11am–6pm)
250 N Kutch St, Carlton
dayton / dundee / newberg
ANAM CARA CELLARS
Daily 11am–5pm
306 Main St, Newberg
dayton / dundee / newberg
CRUMBLED ROCK WINERY
May 23–25 (Noon–5pm)
8415 Worden Hill Rd, Dundee
(cont.)
DOMAINE SERENE
May 23–24 By appt, May 25 11am–4pm
6555 NE Hilltop Ln, Dayton
503.864.4600
DomaineSerene.com
DOMAINE TROUVÉRE
Daily 11am–5pm
155 SW 7th, Dundee
503.487.6370
DomaineTrouvere.com
HAUER OF THE DAUEN WINERY
May 23–25 (11am–6pm)
16425 SE Webfoot Rd, Dayton
503.868.7359
Like us on Facebook
LANGE ESTATES WINERY
May 23–24 (11am–5pm)
18380 NE Beuna Vista Dr, Dundee
503.538.6476
LangeWinery.com
ROCO WINERY
May 23–24 (11am–5pm)
13260 NE Red Hills Rd, Newberg
503.538.7625
RocoWinery.com
ARMONÉA
Daily Noon–5pm
6855 NE Breyman Orchards Rd, Dayton
ARTISENAL WINE CELLARS
May 22–23 (Noon–8pm)
May 24–25 (Noon–6pm)
614 E 1st St, Newberg
503.537.2094
AWCwine.com
AUGUST CELLARS
May 23–24 (11am–5pm)
14000 NE Quarry Rd, Newberg
CATHEDRAL RIDGE WINERY
Daily 11am–6pm
947 Hwy 99W, Dundee
503.537.9977
CathedralRidgeWinery.com
indulge MAY 2015 27
second
generation
vintners
BY OSSIE BLADINE
Of the News-Register
“One thing about a family business is you have to deal
with and you have to manage both the business and a
family. Either side of that equation can fall apart,” says
Alex Sokol Blosser, co-president and head winemaker
of Sokol Blosser Winery. “But there’s a flip side to that.
There’s this inherent trust and this inherent loyalty that is
a beautiful thing.”
Alex and his sister, Alison, spoke to the McMinnville
City Club earlier this month about their experience growing up with parents who helped pioneer the local wine
business, about working in a family business among the
vines, and about the winery’s transition from its first to the
succeeding generation of operators. The speech was titled
“The Second Generation of Oregon Wine.”
28 indulge MAY 2015
Like the Sokol Blossers, Pete Durant of Durant
Vineyards, Red Ridge Farms Oregon Olive Mill, watch his
parents toil in the fields and winery to build an industry
many enthusiasts around the country thought couldn’t be
possible: wine from the cooler climates of the Willamette
Valley.
David Lett was the first to plant pinot vines in the
Yamhill Valley, creating Eyrie Vineyards 50 years ago, and
many soon followed.
“My dad calls them all ‘bootstrappers,’” Durant said.
“Those were wineries built up out of the ground by those
families.”
He continued: “A lot of the old wine families in Oregon
were working two jobs while trying to build a wine business. That’s truly unique to Oregon. That’s what I think
makes it so charming to people. It had a long runway.”
With the rare collection of entrepreneurs were a group
Alex and Alison Sokol Blosser // Submitted photo
of children, many of whom have taken the reigns to build
upon what Mom and Dad created. The appreciation for
that hard work is instilled in the second generation who
were there to take part of it.
Adam Campbell, who took over operations of Elk Cove
Vineyards from his parents, Pat and Joe, said working on
the vineyard was a necessity for him and four siblings. “I
get to have done pretty much every job that there is to do
as a kid,” he said. “It was not glamorous of profitable. We
lived on site, and worked in the fields with our parents. It
gives you a great perspective on it.”
Campbell said no one could have predicted the success
story the Oregon wine business would become. Back in
the day, success meant making great wine and perhaps
being able to break into the Portland market and sell
those residents a product from their home state. Today,
Elk Cove sells wine in 20 export markets, and 80 percent
of its wine — made from 350 planted acres of grapes — is
sold outside the state.
Sokol Blosser said he prepared for the presentation by
studying heavily about family business.
“There’s a lot of romance about what a family business
is,” he said, but, “The more I research, the more confused
I personally get.”
He said it took his parents a while to realize they had
created a business that could be multi-generational.
“They were entrepreneurs ... they didn’t think while the
kids were growing up this could be something to pass
down,” he said. “When they realized that in the early
2000s, they started planning for what that succession
would be.”
Their mother, Susan Sokol Blosser, recently published a
book on the experience called “Letting Go.”
“Mom is a big personality. It was difficult for her to
pass the baton to my sister and I,” Alex said. But they
believe in the kids to make it a family concern. Our mom
“My parents wouldn’t want me to go back
and do what they did. They want me to
push it to new heights."
and dad believed in our second generation.”
Durant said he realized from a young age he wanted
to succeed his parents at Red Ridge Farms. They encouraged him to first have his own career, which he did as a
mechanical engineer, then return home to take over the
family business. He said working in a family business is
90 percent great. And the other 10 percent, “You just have
to work through it out of respect.
“I have a lot of respect for them who have built that
business to what it is. Of course, there are sometimes
disagreements about approach. But at the end, we all just
need to get to the destination.”
Durant said the wine business has developed into a
more complicated set of responsibilities, creating additional
layers of discussion and planning.
“We are farmers and we have to farm. But we do this
value-added agriculture that you have to turn around and
sell,” he said. “It’s not like a wheat farm or cattle ranch.
We have to be able to grow it, transform it, and then turn
around and sell it to the consumer. It’s unique in that you
SILTSTONE
AUTHENTIC OREGON W INES
POUR ING PINOT NOIR, PINOT GR IS
& MÜLLER THURGAU
We are pleased to offer 10% off all wines
and 15% off case purchases for
the holiday weekend
213 Pine St. | Carlton, OR 97111
WE W ILL BE OPEN FROM
NOON TO 5, FR IDAY THROUGH SUNDAY
ON MEMOR IAL WEEK END
503.864.4858 | siltstonewines.com
at Wine Country Farm B&B
A boutique winery
practicing the art of
hand-crafting fruit
into great sipping
wines, gathering
wines and food wines
for your enjoyment.
Daily Tasting 12pm-5pm
Wine Country Farm
Bed & Breakfast
www.WineCountryFarm.com
6855 NE Breyman Orchards Rd. www.WineCountryFarm.com
Dayton, Oregon 97114
503-864-3446
/ more on page 36 /
indulge MAY 2015 29
brew
news
Wolve & People set to open this summer
CELEBRATING
OVER 30 YEARS
in Oregon winegrowing
Try our estate bottled
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay,
Pinot Gris, Sparkling wines
and more at either one
of our locations.
Gaston
Open Daily 11AM–5PM thru October
26830 NW Olson Rd N 503.662.4545
Carlton
Open Thurs–Sun 11AM–5PM
258 N. Kutch Ste B N 503.852.3045
KramerVineyards.com
The craft brew world has been buzzing with anticipation
for months about Wolves & People Farmhouse Brewery,
set to open in early summer outside of Newberg.
Christian DeBenedetti is launching the venture with
head brewer Jordan Keeper, who left his post with Austin,
Texas' Jester King Brewery.
The entire business is equal parts intriguing and
romantic. The site of the brewery and tasting room is
Springbrook Farm, where DeBenedtti grew up, raising
and processing hazelnuts with his family. His interest in
beermaking led him to study ancient traditions in Europe
and West Africa as he became an established writer on
the topic. Now, back home, he and Keeper will take those
teachings and instill them into a hyper-local beer operation
that's been labeled by many as one of the most anticipated new breweries in the nation for 2015.
According to the brewery's website: "Using pure well
water, wild yeast propagated from our own fruit trees,
homegrown hops, and our own fruits, we plan to create,
age, blend, and bottle unique, small-batch beers exhibiting
the beautiful wildness of Oregon terroir."
For more, see the feature on Wolves & People in the
May issue of The Oregon Wine Press.
Malthouse to add brewery
Just 3 mi. from Carlton,
Stag Hollow features
distinctive pinot noirs,
dolcetto & 2014 Pinot Noir
futures in a personal and
friendly atmosphere.
STILLERS MILL RD
to Newberg
HWY 240
H
W
Y
YAMHILL RD
7930 NE Blackburn Road
Yamhill, Oregon
503.662.5609
Tasting Fee Refundable
YAMHILL
to Forest Grove
4
7
BLACKBURN RD
FRYER RD
STAG
HOLLOW
to Carlton
Open Memorial Day Weekend
Holiday Specials up to 25% off
Sat-Sun 11am-5pm, Mon Noon-4pm Also By Appointment
30 indulge MAY 2015
The McMinnville Malthouse opened in february in the
back of the renovated barnhouse housing the Grain Station
Brew Works in McMinnville's Granary District.
Owned by Kenny and Janel Anderson, the operation
specializes in homebrew and winemaking supplies and
classes, and doubles as a taproom and, soon onsite, The
Malthouse Brewery.
The shop's U-brew and U-Vint experiences guide participants through the entire beer or winemaking experience.
To schedule an appointment or for more, visit mcminnvillemalthouse.com.
Grain Station releases The Rose Marie,
second in community series
Grain Station Brewmaster Marm Vickery is honoring the
good men and women of McMinnville, one beer at a time.
Last fall he released the Kent Taylor IPA, named after
the longtime city manager. This spring the brewery is serving the second in the Community Brew Series — The Rose
Marie, a gin barrel aged wheat IPA in honor of Rose
Marie Caugham.
"You’ve probably seen Rose Marie working her magic for
years on Third Street, taking tender loving care of every tree
and planter barrel and selflessly adding to the warmth and
homeyness of our Downtown," the brewery said. "Community
commitment like Rose Marie’s deserves its own beer."
The beer is infused with the botanicals of Sheridan’s
Ransom Spirits’ Old Tom Gin, hoppy bitterness and aromatics. For more, visit grainstation.com.
Wolves & People owner
Christian DeBenedetti
(right) and head brewer
Jordan Keeper inside the
barn-turned-brewery.
// Photo by Del Munroe
Join Us
SILTSTONE
Carlton
Hill Wine’s Semiannual
Tasting in
the Barn
Open to the Public Only on
Sunday, May 24th | Noon to 5 pm
$20 Tasting Fee
Guest Wineries: Andrew Rich, Z’ivo Wines & Copper Belt Winery
Carlton Hill Vineyard & Wines
11511 NW Cummins Rd
Carlton, OR 97111
Directions at www.CarltonHillWines.com
Tastings throughout summer by appointment.
indulge MAY 2015 31
the spirit
of west valley
BY ROCKNE ROLL
Art Tierce of Ransom Spirits inspects a barrel of milled grain before it’s loaded into the mash tun to the left.
Much of the barley used in Ransom’s spirits is grown on the farm where the distillery sits. // Rockne Roll
Of the News-Register
The chemical processes of the Yamhill Valley’s most
notable products, wine and beer, are pretty straightforward
— sugars from grapes or starches from grains are fermented with yeast to create alcohol.
But what if they're taken to the next step?
That was the question that drove longtime winemaker
Tad Seestedt into the distilling business.
Seestedt continues to produce his unique
brandy for its flavor and it’s connection
to his start in distilling.
Ransom Spirits, which operates on a farm outside
Sheridan, and the wide variety of spirits produced there,
are the result of Seestedt’s passion for that succeeding
step in the process.
“I was working for a winery back in the early '90s, and
someone on the night crew forgot to turn on the compressor for the press with a load of riesling in it,” he recalls.
“I came in that morning and made tank measurements
and something didn’t add up; there was very little juice
in the tanks. I went to see where the pumice, the skins,
32 indulge MAY 2015
had been dumped and realized they really hadn’t been
pressed. That’s when the light went on, and I thought,
‘This is a great opportunity to try and make grappa.’”
Grappa is one of Ransom’s signature products, along
with its widely celebrated Old Tom Gin and a variety of
whiskies, gins and other spirits, and is traditionally made
with the leftovers from the winemaking process. American
spirit consumers generally trend more toward grain spirits,
but Seestedt continues to produce his unique brandy for
its flavor and its connection to his start in distilling.
“It’s almost entirely Gewürztraminer for our grappa.
That’s a Germanic variety of white wine that’s very aromatic. In the past, we were making grappa from many different types of grapes, but that’s always been my favorite.
It’s very distinctive,” he said. “Because we like making it,
we’re still making it, but we’re only making our favorite one.”
Whatever the final product, the process is much the
same — fermentation, then distillation.
“You have to ferment first. Distillation concentrates
alcohol; it doesn’t create alcohol,” Seestedt explained.
Once the wine or wort is fermented, it goes into the still.
Ransom operates a pair of '70s vintage French pot stills,
each with a gas-fired kettle and a large condenser tank.
The initial liquid is boiled, which separates the alcohol
/ more on page 34 /
Wines for Life
Treat yourself to award-winning
wines for all occasions and
all life events in our charming
Carlton Tasting Room. Discover
your next perfect wine with our
exceptional variety, including
our exclusive Vermentino, world
class Zinfandel, Syrah, and other
unique varietals.
OPEN THURSDAY-SUNDAY 11-5
STARTING MAY 1ST:
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SUMMER: ’TIL 6 PM | SATURDAYS ’TIL 7 WITH LIVE MUSIC
250 N. KUTCH ST., CARLTON, OR | 503.852.3084
WWW.TROONVINEYARD.COM
indulge MAY 2015 33
/ continued from page 32/
from the water, and the result is cooled back into liquid
and collected. The process is time intensive — each cycle
of operation can take up to 16 hours, and the product
must run through the still twice to achieve the desired flavor and concentration — resulting in a 90 percent or more
reduction in volume from start to finish.
“If we start with 100 gallons of wine, we end up with
10 gallons of brandy,” Seestedt said. “When we’re making
gin and whisky, the reduction is more extreme because
the starting alcohol is lower.”
The product comes out of the still at between 130 and
150 proof, or up to 75 percent alcohol by volume. It’s further processed and aged before water is added to achieve
bottle proof, which is 88 proof for Old Tom Gin.
Ransom has been in business since the late 90s, but
moved to the West Valley in 2008 with the purchase of a
40-acre farm that houses the distillery, Ransom’s winemaking operation and provides the space to grow much of the
barley in Ransom spirits
“I came out to this area in Sheridan for the farm country. This piece of land is sort of multipurpose,” Seestedt
said. “It has good soil for grapes and it’s good for grains.
It allows us to be versatile in what we’re going to grow.”
Seestedt sources the grapes that go into Ransom wine
and brandy from around Oregon, particularly the Eola Hills,
and the grain which is not grown on site comes primarily
from a company in Vancouver.
The land the distillery sits on, the painstaking process
required to create fine spirits, and the resulting products
are all part of the fulfillment of Seestedt’s lifelong passion.
“I was always fascinated with distilling and distilled
34 indulge MAY 2015
products,” he said. “Working as a winemaker was a
natural extension into looking into what comes after
fermentation.“
Freshly distilled whisky pours from the condenser of a still at Ransom Spirit’s distillery
outside Sheridan. It takes 100 gallons of fermented liquid, or wort, and two runs
through Ransom’s pot still to yield six to 10 gallons of still-proof whisky. // Rockne Roll
In this pot still, one of two at the Ransom Spirits facility, fermented liquid is boiled in the kettle, right, to evaporate the pure alcohol
while leaving the byproducts behind. The alcohol is then cooled into liquid by running through the condenser, left // Rockne Roll
Portland Monthly
Top 50
Recipient of the 2014
Riesling Hero Award
Featured on Fox TV’s
“Strange Inheritance”
Featured in acclaimed film
“American Wine Story”
Fifteen years after we began making wine, we finally have our own
home! Located on our estate with its incredible view of Mt. Hood
and the Willamette Valley, the new 13,500 square foot winery houses
our production facilities, tasting room, and biodynamic gardens.
Come
enjoy Monthly
hand crafted riesling and
pinot noir
while2014
you enjoy
Portland
Recipient
of the
one of the best experiences that the Willamette Valley has to offer.
Top 50
Riesling Hero Award
Featured on Fox TV’s
“Strange Inheritance”
Featured in acclaimed film
“American Wine Story”
Fifteen years after we began making wine, we finally have our own home! Located on our estate with
its incredible view of Mt. Hood and the Willamette Valley, the new 13,500 square foot winery houses
our production facilities, tasting room, and biodynamic gardens. Come enjoy hand crafted riesling
and pinot noir while you enjoy one of the best experiences that the Willamette Valley has to offer.
www.brookswine.com info@brookswine.com
BrooksWine.com
info@brookswine.com 503.435.1278
Open Tuesday-Sunday 11-5 & Monday by appt. 503 435-1278 21101 SE Cherry Blossom Lane, Amity, Oregon Brooks Wines Brookswinery
Open Tuesday–Sunday 11–5 & Monday by appt. 21101 Cherry Blossom Lane, Amity, Oregon
Portland Monthly
Top 50
Recipient of the 2014
Riesling Hero Award
Featured on Fox TV’s
“Strange Inheritance”
Brooks Wines
Brookswinery
Featured in acclaimed film
indulge MAY 2015 35
“American Wine Story”
/ continued from page 29 /
May 23 & 24
– at –
– With –
Lady Bug
Chocolates
August Cellars will be open Monday the 25th
for your last minute picnic needs!
14000 NE Quarry Rd. Newberg, OR | 503-554-6766
36 indulge MAY 2015
start with the grape and see it through all the way to the
consumer.”
The rise of Oregon wine allowed the second generation of vintners to put their own stamp on the industry.
Campbell said it would be a disservice to the brave
actions of his parents to simply run the business at its
status quo.
“My parents wouldn’t want me to go back and do what
they did,” he said. “They want me to push it to new heights.”
Sokol Blosser said using the extended family is also
important.
“Even though there a lot of family members out there
that aren’t in the business, they are still part of the family,
and they are still concerned about the integrity of the family business,” he said. “They are out there with their radar
on … You kind of have the family out there circling the
wagons to ensure success.”
The Sokol Blossers, Durant, Campbell and others
have used their peer group to help make that happen.
Other second generation winemakers in the area include: Jesse Lange, Lange Estate Winery; Jason Lett,
The Eyrie Vineyards; Luisa, Maria and Michel Ponzi,
Ponzi Vineyards; Tahmiene, Hanna and Naseem Momtazi,
Maysara Vineyards.
“Jesse (Lange, of Lange Estate Winery) and I laugh
that at some point we need to create a generation two
support group,” Durant said.
“I genuinely feel that we are supportive of each other
to want second generation businesspeople to succeed and
take it to the next level,” Sokol Blosser said. “A lot of it is
just exchanging notes, asking ‘who was your consultant?’
or ‘what is your business coach’s name?’”
Durant said theirs is a mutual kinship among the members of the second generation.
“We kind of understand what one another goes through
without having to say much about how great it is and also
how challenging it is,” he said.
In researching for the Mac Club presentation, Sokol
Blosser said he hoped to convey an overall picture that
describes what is inherent in the wine business that leads
it to being a multi-generational business. The answer led
him to the word ‘trust.’
“We make a consumer good that people trust to be
good year-in and year-out. When you are creating something in which you need to have that trust and assurance,
it could be that a family business is more beneficial to
have,” he said. “Once you develop that consumer trust, if
you can keep that going in the family, then the wine business does lend itself to the family business.”
The second generation shares something else in common: kids of their own. Sokol Blosser said he and Alison
are already trying to figure out how to transition the business to the third generation. It’s different, he said, because his kids do not witness the struggle that he and his
siblings witnessed.
Campbell and Durant agreed with that sentiment, saying it's important to pass down the sense of bravery and
humbleness on which the local wine industry was founded.
While feeling blessed with the enriching opportunity to
continue the family business, there are plenty of unique
challenges facing the second generation.
After all, Sokol Blosser said, “It’s not easy to create a
business, and it’s not that hard to destroy it.”
indulge MAY 2015 37
cellar dweller
I love good food.
I’ve worked as a waiter at greasy
diners and at Michelin-rated restaurants. I’ve served as a wine steward
and bartender. I’ve
written wine and
food columns for
periodicals and I’ve
contributed to wine
tasting panels. I
never set out to
do all this but I’ve
come to know food
and drink pretty
well. Although I
MATT MEADOR
can’t cook, I know
is a production
what’s good, what
artist for the
works and I appre- News-Register.
He’s a big guy
ciate the subtleties
who likes big
found in cuisines
wines.
from all over the
place.
At one four-star restaurant in which
I worked, the pastry chef would have
me pre-taste her distinctive desserts
because she knew I’d be honest but
— more importantly — she knew I’d
get excited about them.
When I was told we were doing
the Yamhill Valley Burger Bracket,
I jumped at the chance to write the
feature because I love a good burger.
In the nearly 20 years I’ve been here,
hamburgers at the American Legion
post and at Walnut City Lanes. The
food cart outside Lowe’s, the Souper
Sandwich Hut, has one of my favorite bacon cheeseburgers, in town.
Morning Thunder in McMinnville offers
a pretty great burger, too.
The best part about it is there are
hamburgers in the valley for every
taste. From standard take-out varieties to gourmet creations with exotic
cheeses and sautéed peppers, from
mild to wickedly spicy, you can find
any type of hamburger your heart desires right here in the Yamhill Valley.
And as an added bonus, you’ll be
surrounded by remarkable craft brews
and award-winning wines to wash it
all down.
We might just be in hamburger
heaven.
We might just be in
hamburger heaven.
I have watched this area grow from
a humdrum little town with a handful
of mediocre restaurants to a bustling
wine destination with literally dozens
of outstanding eateries. We’ve come a
long way and people are noticing!
There is no question that the two
finalists in the Burger Bracket have
exceptional hamburgers. In fact, most
of the nominees produce pretty good
burgers, some better than others. But
there are a lot of great little restaurants around here that didn’t receive
enough nominations to make the first
round. McMinnville’s Wild Wood Café
Restaurant has its excellent Grizzly
Burger. A lot of local folks like the
38 indulge MAY 2015
The Kickin Burger at Block House Cafe in Dayton // Ossie Bladine
indulge MAY 2015 39