CORNUCOPIA

CORNUCOPIA
-An Inexhaustible store
"Design for me is a site of exploration and expression of concepts.
It is my perception to the world around. I travel and that is what inspires me
Department of Textile Design
National Institute of Fashion Technology
Mumbai
2014-2015
CORNUCOPIA
A Graduation Project Submitted in partial fulfillment of
Under-graduate programme in Textile Design
Student: Lata Kumari Rana
Faculty guide/Mentor (s): Dr. V. Senthil Kumar
Department of Textile Design
National Institute of Fashion Technology
Mumbai
2014-2015
Name of the Deparartment: Textile Design
Series No: .....
Cataloguing - in - publishing data
UDC NO:
Name of the Document: Cornucopia
Name of the Student: Lata Kumari Rana
Year of study: 2015
Series No …….….
Copy right @
National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai
All rights reserved: no part of this book may be reproduced, stored in retrieval system or transmitted in any form by means of el ectronic, mechanical,
photo copying, recording or otherwise without prior permission from National Institute Fashion Technology, Mumbai, except by a review/reader who
wishes to quote brief passage in connection with a paper review/essay written for inclusion in a periodical, newspaper or bro adcast.
Faculty guide/Mentor (s): Mr./Ms.-------------------------
Certificate
Jury Certificate
This is to certify that Mr./Ms. Lata Kumari Rana has completed his/her Graduation Projects titled Cornucopia within a specified
time frame.
The Jury evaluated the work of the student and found the work up to the mark and recommended the award of the Bachelor of
Design (Textile Design)
Jury Members:
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
____________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________________
**************************************************************
Subsequent remarks and follow up if
any:_____________________________________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________
Center Coordinator
Textile Design
Dated:____________________________
Acknowledgement
I would like to extend my sincere thanks to my industry mentor Mr. Sanjay Kejariwal for being so cooperative, I am highly indebted
for his guidance and constant supervision as well as for providing necessary information from time-to-time regarding the project. He
gave me freedom to explore and challenge my own capabilities. I would also like to thank my friends, Tuvisha Gupta and Shivam
Patil for their support in completing the project.
My special thanks and appreciation goes to my college mentor, Mr. Senthil who has willingly helped me out with his abilities. He
has supported me and encouraged me at various situations during my internship. This project would have been impossible without
his guidance and support.
Contents
1. Introduction
2. Project brief
3. Introduction to the company
4. Projects Undertaken
5. About the client
6. Project1
7. Themeboard, moodboard, initial developments
8. Specification Sheets and cost sheets
9. Project 2
10. Theme board, mood board, initial developments
11. Specification sheets and cost sheets
12. Project 3
13. Project 4
14. Project 5
15. Conclusion
INTRODUCTION
The Graduation Project is an 18 weeks industry based project. During this period, we develop collections of fabrics for apparel or
home fashion, on the specific brief given by the sponsoring company. We need to focus more on fabric development rather than the
garments. We need to explore weaves, prints and surfaces keeping in view the end product. Innovation in fabric development or
manipulation of fabric is the focus while conceptualizing the collection.
The fabrics developed for each collection are converted into 6-8 garments. Minimum of two such collections are part of the project.
Each collection is supported by minimum 10 swatch development/explorations. The overall look in terms of style, color, details etc.
needs to be kept in mind. Each collection should have a target market/customer and must be visualized for a specific category with
a distinctive look and costing.
The objectives of the project are:
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To gain comprehensive knowledge of processes involved in designing and developing a collection in the industry.
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Integrate application of classroom learning into a real life market driven project.
To gain maturity and confidence in understanding mainstream commerce and constraints of the industry while
developing the collections.
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Develop articulation and presentation skills.
Costing for the product category is integral part of Graduation Project ,to understand the consumer/market segment
better.
1
PROJECT BRIEF
To design two collections for the given Client, Haute hippie (US). The collections to be designed are for Spring/Summer 16 and
Autumn/ Winter 16-17. Each collection consists of seven garments. The themes chosen are Time traveller and Art-Deco. The
silhouettes and designs are made keeping in mind the designer’s taste. Time traveller is inspired from boho-chics, hippies and
tends to get inspired from the past. It is adding glamour and shimmer to the bohos. Art-Deco on the other hand is inspired from
!920s fashion where flapper dresses, leather, jazz were in vogue. The collection is dark and rich and is for a confident clientele.
The colour boards of the collection are completely different depending upon the seasons and moods. Both the collections have
their own uniqueness and fun added to it.
PRO
INTRODUCTION TO THE COMPANY
ELAN FASHIONS PVT LTD
Phone: +91 22 6744 1012/1068
Fax: +91 22 2308 0218
Email: admin@studioelan.com
Website: www.studioelan.com
#322, Creative Industrial Estate
Sitaram Mil Compounds
N.M. Joshi Marg, Lower Parel
Mumbai – 400011, India
PREMIER DESIGN & EMBRODIERY HOUSE
Mission Statement: To deliver superior & highly aesthetic embroidery panels & garments meeting stringent global quality
standards catered to client specifications well within budgets.
BACKGROUND
Elan is a 23 year old sole proprietorship and private limited Company exporting high-fashion hand embroidered panels & garments
to US and Europe. Their dedicated offices comprises of a full-fledged in-house embroidery production studio besides an excellent
network of outsourced vendors meeting quality specifications. They also have a select team of senior merchandisers and agents
across the globe with promotion offices at Belgium, France, Italy, Germany, USA and Netherlands.
DESIGNER BOUQUET
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Specialists in hand crafted high-fashion evening wear or cocktail dresses:
Hand Beading and embroidery
Hand and machine embroidery panels / yardages
Macramé
Crochet
Special types of embroidery material development using metal casting, glass and plastic
Embroidered accessories like belts, necklaces, brooches, braids, to name a few
Texturing on fabrics
All types of Printing on T-shirts & Shirts
Full package garments which include-Men’s shirts and T-shirts / women’s tops, skirts and dresses
Hi- end embroidered/ non-embroidered garments
Catwalk collection
HIGHLIGHTS
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Their prized work has featured in major fashion & celebrity shows in Europe.
Trendy designs very well accepted in the international market.
Exceptional understanding of the Europe and US fashion markets.
Participation in major breath stopping fashion & celebrity shows of the likes of Pitti Filati, Premiere Vision and others.
Creative thematic designs based on which fabric textures, embroidery material, garments, trims and accessories are
designed & conceptualised.
TEAM BIOGRAPHY
 Sanjay Kejariwal, Founder & Managing Director with 23 years of experience – MBA in International Business
 Bijal Heryani, CEO with eight years of experience in Business Development, Operations & Costing – Diploma in
Apparel Manufacturing & Design
 Sushma Bajaj, Studio In-Charge with experience of seven years and accountable for the two big collections
annually – Diploma in Fashion Design
 Pramod Chaudhary- Accountant manager
 Pallavi Patil- Manager
 Shailaja Pandware- Logistics Manager
 Rashida Morkas- Senior Merchandiser
 Kamal Karmokar And Azgar Ali- Draftsmen
 Kamal Master- Pattern Master
 Santosh Shetty and Rajendra Josh- Quality controller
 Jyotsna Munde, Swapnali Awate, Pinkal Mishra- Junior Merchandisers\
STUDIO & TEAM COMPOSITION
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Quality designers creating unique, cutting-edge designs well-accepted in the global market.
Designers coordinate with pattern masters, tailors, artistes, beaders and embroidery specialists.
Experienced quality control professionals with over 15 years of experience.
A full-fledged in-house sampling unit where the samples and collection are developed customised to specific client
requirements.
Outsourced team comprises of four Companies with an average of anywhere between 20-200 beaders depending on the
requirements.
EXISTING CLIENT LIST
Paris
Belgium
1
Apostrophe
1
2
Adam Jones
3
Netherlands
Italy
1
Janta Minna
1
Jocavi
2
A.H Vander Vorst
Ann
Demuelemeester
2
2
Marni
3
Annemie Verberke
3
3
Montex
4
Carven
Comptoir des
Cotonniers
Stills
Claes
Iversen
4
Caroline Biss
4
Ilja Visser
4
Mink
5
Barbara Bui
5
Luc du Chine
5
6
Dior
6
6
7
Dior Homme
7
Chris Janssen's:
Christophe
Coppens
7
Etro
Monica
Tempesta
Carolina
Harrera
8
Georges Rech
9
Haider Ackermann
9
Marco
9
Givenchy
10 Just In Case
10 Jean Paul Gaultier
11 Margriet Nanning
11 John Galliano
12 Marie Mero
12 Karl Lagerfeld
13 Sandrina Fasoli
13 Lamina Gruner
14 Lamintne
15 LIL
16 Maje
17
Nina Ricci
18 Rousseau
19 Sandro Paris
20 Valentino Vox
21 Yves Solomon
22 Paul and Joe
23 Zadig & Volataire
24 Chloe
CLIENT CREDENTIALS
We really appreciate your work ethic, attitude, fast, efficient and flexible approach. We consider you a great partner and look
forward to continue doing business with Elan!
Claudia Marenco, Ex- VP / Creative Director, Rachel Roy
The embroideries turned out beautiful! Everyone loves them!
Allie Baldus, Head of Design Development, Narciso Rodriguez
Thank you for your hard work. As you can see Pringle Show showcases your embroidery as a beautiful highlight. The final result is
compelling.
Massimo Nicosia, Head of Design, Pringle of Scotland
Your dresses really made the runway sing! This season turned out great in large part to all your hard work.
Les Schweikert, Senior Designer, Couture
Projects Undertaken
This Graduation project consists of two main collections (spring/summer 2016 and autumn /winter 2016-17) for
the given client Haute Hippie (US). There are seven embroidered garments in each of the collections.
Client: Haute Hippie
In 2008, Founder and Creative Director, Trish Wescoat Pound started Haute
Hippie, the essence of a global nomad's mind set and lifestyle. Believing that the
Haute Hippie woman is eclectic, chic, and well-travelled, her goal was to create a
lifestyle and a line of clothing that was not only innovative and sophisticated but
also practical, versatile, and sensible.
She is a global nomad that wanders and searches for new experiences. She is
sophisticated and chic, while still being edgy and approachable. She celebrates
her own uniqueness and expresses it through the clothes she wears, the music
she listens to, and the places she travels.
Client board
Spring-Summer 2016
s
SPRING/ SUMMER 2016
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Theme: Forgotten Tales
This theme has been derived after referring forecast sights like WGSN, stylesight and keeping in mind the style and taste of my
client. As she is known as the boho- chic, this collection is inspired from boho-chics, gypsies and hippies and mixing glamour to it.
It’s getting inspired from the past and incorporating it with style and shimmer for the future. The silhouettes are casual but with
intricate embroideries on them.
Theme board
Mood board:
This mood here is free, full of life, cheerful. This woman loves travelling, she wants to explore the world and is
optimistic. She is the one who loves adventure and needs thrill in life.
Mood board
Initial explorations
Material Used: Stones and Cutbeads
Inspiration
Materials Used: pearls and cut beads
Material Used: grey Anchor thread, cutbeads and
antique kasab (thread)
Material Used: Sequence
Inspiration
Material Used: anchor thread & cut beads
Material Used: bugle beads & beads
Material Used: cut beads
Inspiration
Inspiration
Material Used: cut beads& anchor thread
Inspirat
Material Used: Cotton thread and bugle beads
Inspiration
Material Used: Sequins, bugle beads, leaf sequin
Inspiration
Material Used : Badla (gold sheet)
Material used: cut beads, beads and sequin
Inspiration
COLLECTION
Autumn-winter 2016-17
Practical Salvage
Embellishment turns tough, though this still feels very crafted, considered and luxurious. Worth mentioning is Charlotte Knowles’s
innovative collection,initially inspired by bicycle culture, where elegance and femininity are undercut with an edge of hardness and
fantasy, due to the metal textiles that prickle and pierce the surface of her work. The grungy faux-pierced eyebrows at Rodarte S/S
15 create a bold look in keeping with this season's toughed-up approach to beauty.
Theme: Art- Deco Sumptuality
Inspired from the 1920s Fashion, when flapper dresses, feathers and tassels were in vogue. The richness of the era is visible with
gold ornamentation and beautiful embroidery.
Theme board
Theme board
Mood Board: The mood is bold and beautiful with a bit of naughtiness in it. This woman is rich, confident and is a true lady.
Mood board
Material Used:
sequence & cut
beads
Inspiration
Material Used: Bugle beads, anchor thread, beads (poth)
Inspiration
Material Used: stones,pearls,cutbeads,sequin
Material Used: pearls,stones,bugle beads,organza fabric
Material Used: Bugle beads
Material Used: Sequins, cut beads and kasab(thread)
InspirationInspiration
Inspiration
Material Used: bugle beads, pearls, stones, cut beads, cotton
thread
Inspiration
Inpiration
Inspir
Material Used: Cut beads
Material Used:
Feathers, cut
beads, badla(gold
sheet), sequins
Material Used: Cut beads
Material Used: Cut beads
Material Used: Cut beads
Material Used:
Cut beads
Inspiratio
Material Used: Stones and cut beads
Material Used: cut beads and stones
Inspiratioon
COLLECTION
Other Projects Undertaken
Project 3
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Embroidered 10/18 swatches for Autumn /Winter 15
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Process followed for developing of swatches:
For the development of swatches, we need to follow a complete process. And as the company deals with hi-end fashion
(inspiration from haute couture), I did a research by using internet (pinterest) and going through some books (Haute
Couture- The metropolitan Museum Of Art, by Richard Martin and Harold Koda and Decorating Fabric- Susie stokie) for a
better understanding. It helped me know different materials and different embroidery techniques. For the khakhas to be
made, I chose few pictures and gave it for making a khakha or just tell the khakha guy to make it as per my requirement (my
own design) and my material
Inspiration
Khaka
So, as shown by the images above, all the khakhas were made according to the inspiration, then material and fabric was
chosen (and dyed if required) and then final swatch was made.
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Few Swatches developed for A/W 2015
Inspiration
Material Used: Mohair yarn (wool),
Bugel beads (Sali)
Seed beads (Poth)
Fabric Used : Organza (Black)
Inspiration
Material Used: Stones, Cut dana
(cut beads) and
Chain
Fabric Used: Knitted Net
Inspiration
Material Used: stones, Patti, Cut beads, Seed beads,
stone chains, Transparent sequence
Fabric Used: Knitted Net
Inspiration
Material Used: Bugel Beads, Beads, Stones,
Patti
Fabric Used: Organza
Inspiration
Material Used: Cut Beads, Bugle Bead, Seed Beads,
Triangle sequence (Patti)
Fabric: Georgette
-First proto (Single piece garment) were developed for two of the swatches as per the clients demand.
Swatch
First prototype
Project 4
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Designing of embroidery swatches for Spring-summer 2016
Inspiration
Material Used: Cotton Thread, Sequence, Seed
Beads, cut beads
Fabric Used: Georgette
Inspiration
Client’s requirement (an eagle)
Material Used: Cut beads, Bugle beads,
Sequence, spring, kasab
Fabric Used: organza and net
Inspiration
Material Used; Cotton Thread
Fabric Used: Net and lace fabric
Inspiration
Material used: Anchor thread, Sequence, pearls
Fabric Used: Net
Inspiration
Material Used: Cut beads, Bugle Beads, sequence
Fabric Used: Net, Georgette, Organza
Inspiration
Material Used: cut beads, pearls, bugle beads,
square sequence
Inspiration
Material Used: cut beads, pearls, bugle beads,
square sequence
Fabric Used: Georgette
Project 5
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To design three belts for a client, Vivienne Westwood according to their requirements.
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Initial material exploration for the client. The material being a yarn, called as Raffia.
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Different braids, weaves and tessels were explored as asked by the designer.
Mermaid Braid
Herringbone weave
French Plaiting
Stacked braiding
Material
Explorations
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The raffia samples sent to the client earlier were approved by the client and final designs of the belts were sent by them for
designing.
Instructions sent by the client
Belt No.1
Belt no.2
Belt No.3
Final development of belts
Belts
These belts were showcased on the runway in Paris Fashion week on 8th of March,15
CONCLUSION
All in all working an Elan was a life changing experience. Patience was the most important learning from Elan. Making a
working plan was the second important learning because that makes you understand how to manage time. Also,
leadership was an important learning as sometimes you have to get your work done and a true leader is the one who can
get it done without failing or stressing himself/herself.
Knowledge of international market, haute couture, knowledge of materials and managing accounts was also what I learnt
from this Graduation Project. This Graduation project has not only helped me gain knowledge about my work but has also
made me grow on personal level.