Traditions Continue: The Care and Use of Heritage Textiles

WLG 53
Traditions Continue: The Care
and Use of Heritage Textiles
Wallis Anne Magaha, Jefferson County CEOS Council President
Judy Matlick, WVU Extension Agent, Jefferson County
Educational
Objectives
1.Increase understanding of vintage textiles, including how
to care for and preserve them.
2.Gain ideas
for using
and enjoying
vintage textiles
in the home.
Definition: Heritage or vintage textiles are fabrics from an earlier
era. They might include clothing or household textiles such as
tablecloths, quilts, curtains, feedsacks, aprons, hooked rugs,
woven coverlets, and other items used in daily life.
Cleaning and Storing
Antique and Precious
Textiles
Old bed linens, quilts, tablecloths,
dresser scarves, clothing, and similar
items are very desirable to collectors.
Wedding gowns, christening gowns,
and antique family clothing are
textiles that many people would
like to preserve and pass on to
future generations. Proper cleaning
and storage will help preserve them
and retain their value.
The primary enemies of textiles are light, high temperatures,
and dampness. The ultraviolet radiation from daylight and from
fluorescent lamps causes the worst damage, but fibers can become
brittle and dyes fade from any light source. High temperatures make
fibers become brittle and speed up chemical reactions in the textiles.
A combination of high relative humidity and warm temperatures
makes a favorable climate for the growth of mold and mildew and
for infestation by insects. Silk and wool are especially attractive
to moths and other insects; silverfish are attracted to the starch
on cotton. Good housekeeping and keeping a moderate temperature
and humidity in your home are the best deterrents against mold,
mildew, and insect pests.
Improper storage may damage textiles. Coming in contact with wood
or wood products may cause textiles to stain or darken and become
– continued –
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brittle. Even most paper can be a hazard to
textiles because of the acid content.
Shelving and Storage: A cool, dark, dry room
is the best place to store textiles. Avoid using
wooden shelving unless the wood has been
sealed. Rust-free metal shelving is desirable.
Wrap textiles in muslin or acid-free tissue
paper and store in acid-free boxes. Line shelves
with acid-free cardboard or paper. Remember
that regular tissue paper and cardboard boxes
are wood products. Using them to store textiles
may cause the textiles to yellow and discolor.
Acid-free products should be used.
Antique clothes can be used for drafting
patterns to make reproductions, but they
should never be worn. They are very fragile,
and modern-day chemicals such as deodorants,
perfumes, makeup, etc., will damage
the fabrics. It’s wise to wear cotton gloves
when handling them.
Have good air circulation in the storage area
to discourage the growth of mold and insects.
Items should be aired several times a year.
All textiles should be cleaned before storing.
Stains from food and perspiration will cause
textiles to discolor and deteriorate over time.
Also, insects are drawn to food stains on
clothing and other items.
For storing or displaying, padded hangers
should be used if the garment is to be hung.
Twill tape can be used to help support heavier
garments by attaching it inside the garment’s
at the waistline and then hanging the tape
over the hanger to hold some of the garment
weight. Wooden hangers wrapped with
polyester quilt batting and covered with
muslin are good. Hanging a garment for
a long time may weaken seams and fibers,
causing stress on the garment.
Garments and
other items are
probably best
stored lying
flat wrapped in
archival tissue
or rolled on an
archival tube.
If items are folded
for display or for
storage, refold
them periodically
to prevent
fold lines.
Examine your stored textiles periodically to
check for insects and other problems. Isolate
new items for at least three weeks and check
for hatching larvae.
Cleaning: Valuable textiles and tapestries
should be cleaned by a professional cleaner or
restorer of antique textiles. Other dry cleaners
may damage the items by using cleaning
chemicals that are not suitable for the fabrics.
Most other cottons and linens may be hand
washed or dry-cleaned.
Always check the fabric for color-fastness
before washing. Use a cotton ball or cotton swab
dampened in warm, soapy water on small areas
that cannot be easily seen. Wait five minutes
and blot the area with white paper. If no color
appears, you probably can wash the fabric
safely. If color shows on the paper, dry-clean
the item if possible OR do nothing. Test each
color before washing. If there is decorative trim
that can be removed safely and easily, do so
and reattach it after the textile is dry. Take
care in drying and ironing antique linens;
high heat can be damaging. Drying flat or line
drying is best for most cotton and linen items.
Turning items inside out if you are drying
outdoors will help prevent fading. If you are
trying to whiten fabrics, you may want to hang
them in the sun.
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Use soap or detergent designed for hand
washing or for washing vintage textiles.
Hand wash or use the gentle cycle of your
washing machine. For larger items such as
quilts, consult several references and decide
which technique is appropriate for your item.
Always be careful to limit strain on the fabric.
The weight of the water can damage fragile
fabric. Remove items from the tub and place
them on a flat surface, removing excess water
with clean toweling; allow them to air-dry
or use a hair dryer on low heat. Other options
include drying outdoors under a shade tree
on muslin sheets or line drying smaller items
over two lines.
Using Vintage
Textiles
A dry method of cleaning would be to use
a low-powered vacuum. Put a sheet of nylon
filament over the fabric or nylon netting over
the hose and vacuum gently.
Ways to Use Vintage Textiles
Displaying: If you display a quilt or other
item over a chair or sofa, refold it every
several months to show a different side and
to keep the item from fading in only one area.
Avoid displaying it in direct sunlight. Move
items periodically to new locations to
prevent fading.
Documentation: Document what you know
about your treasures. Include photographs
of the item in
use, if available,
as well as dates
of origin, maker,
or any other
information
or oral history
related to the
item. Record
the information
in a scrapbook,
on a CD, or
in a journal.
Documentation
increases the
value to your
family and others.
Before disassembling
old textiles to use
for other purposes,
you may want to
check with a reputable
dealer, appraiser,
or other experts to
determine their value.
Unless they are very
fragile and valuable,
don’t be afraid to
use your linens.
1. Display quilts, coverlets, or blankets over sofas, railings, and chairs.
2. Use quilts as bedspreads.
3. Use pieces to cover sofas and chairs.
4. Use as valance or curtains for kitchens, baths, or children’s room.
5. Make a tote bag or purse.
6. Make a shower curtain from chenille bedspreads.
7. Cover tops of kitchen stools.
8. Make pillows, aprons, table runner, pot holders, oven mitts, passport cover, checkbook cover, etc.
9. Frame items (old lace, hankies, old pieces
of quilts, woven coverlets).
10. Wrap a photo album or cover a picture frame.
11. Stack textiles in a basket or on a table
or shelf to add color to a room.
12. Make a Christmas stocking.
13. Make a handmade cloth doll.
14. Piece or appliqué a quilt.
15. Make clothing or use to embellish clothing.
16. Use as a cover for lamp shades.
17. Use vintage hankies as curtain tie backs, valances, kitchen shelf decoration, dust ruffles, on a bedspread, or in frames.
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8. Hang vintage tea towels to add color
1
to the kitchen.
19. Use old lace to edge pillowcases,
sheets, etc.
20. Hang quilts, hooked rugs, etc., on walls.
21. Display blankets, quilts, coverlets, feedsacks, and tablecloths in cupboards.
22. Display old baby clothes or doll clothes
on padded hangers or mannequins.
23. Most important – don’t just collect heritage textiles and put them away
in drawers – use them and enjoy them!
Activities for CEOS Meetings
Primary Sources
Long, Jane S. and Richard W. Long, (2000),
Caring for Your Family Treasures. Heritage
Meador, Margaret M., (2003). What Is a Quilt?
Retrieved July 22, 2008, from www.wvu.edu/~exten/
infores/pubs/fypubs/23.wlg.pdf
Miller, Judith, (1997), Care and Repair of Everyday
Treasures. Readers’ Digest. Preservation. New York,
NY: Harry N. Abrams, Inc.
Schultz, Arthur W., editor, (1992). Caring for Your
Collections. New York, NY: Harry N. Abrams, Inc.
Valentine, Fawn (2000) West Virginia Quilts and
Quilt Makers – Echoes from the Hills. Athens, Ohio:
Ohio University Press.
1. Have show-and-tell of heritage fabrics
at club meetings.
2. Have displays at club, county,
or area meetings.
3. Sponsor a quilt show.
4. Have an apron or vintage clothing
fashion show.
5. Conduct a workshop to make a craft
using vintage fabrics.
6. Ask members to wear a favorite vintage apron to a club meeting.
7. Visit exhibits of heritage fabrics (quilts, coverlets, embroidery, etc.) as a club
or county cultural arts tour.
8. Make aprons out of vintage fabrics.
9. Brainstorm ways to use and enjoy
vintage textiles.
10. Discuss ideas for documenting family treasures.
2008
Programs and activities offered by the West Virginia University Extension Service are available to all persons without regard
to race, color, sex, disability, religion, age, veteran status, political beliefs, sexual orientation, national origin, and marital
or family status. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with
the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Director, Cooperative Extension Service, West Virginia University.
FH08–222
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