Merlot los Carneros napa Valley

M erlot
L os C arneros
N apa V alley
2005
R o b e r t
S i n s k e y
N a p a ,
V i n e y a r d s
C a l i f o r n i a
P ost -M ania R eflections
Merlot as a leading indicator...
M
“
on a
erlot came to the fore during a time of frenzied
speculation as new wealth minted by the inflating
tech bubble fueled hedonistic explorations in wine. The
chosen libation, Merlot, flowed into glasses raised in
celebration of venture capital endowments, mergers and
acquisitions. There were few choices in those days. We all
knew the names...a duck, a creek and a Bob or two. For
the most part, the wines were nicely structured, slightly
luscious and friendly renditions of the Right Bank style.
G rape
Merlot vineyards were replanted to Pinot Noir, Pinot
Gris, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Wineries could not
change direction fast enough and some were forced to sell.
That was four years ago.
Today, Merlot slowly and steadily climbs back from
purgatory as marketers focus their attention on more
profitable varieties. It is now back where it should be, in
the hands of artisans who care about its provenance and
character. It’s appropriate that during
Greed and wild speculation ran
hard times it’s making a comeback.
rampant in corporate wine boardrooms When times get tough, the tough
Merlot, unlike other more fashionable
as they identified an underserved
missed the price increases
get cooking. More often these varieties,
market and set out to make a buck.
of the past few years and good ones
Vineyards sprouted overnight and days, people are cooking and
can be had at a relative bargain. Even
techniques developed to make a “soft
appealing is its comfortable
entertaining at home and they more
and drinkable” style of Merlot, even
flavor profile that appeals to a wide
if the grapes came from unsuitable are more sophisticated in their
audience. A well crafted Merlot is a
regions. The cognoscenti quietly
satisfying wine for both the novice
wine choices.
bemoaned the new style. Many of
and the experienced imbiber. It is the
these new wines lacked character and their low acid and
“go to” wine whenever the boss and her husband come to
over-the-top fruitiness made them difficult to pair with
dinner.
food. The wines sold. The grumbling grew louder, but
When times get tough, the tough get cooking. More
heads remained deeply buried in the sand while corporate
often these days, people are cooking and entertaining
decision makers continued to insist on planting more
at home and they are more sophisticated in their wine
grapes and manufacturing more wine. Sales departments
choices. I believe that people are rejecting mass-produced,
were hungry and pushed winemakers, against their better
manipulated, characterless, cookie-cutter wines and are
judgement, to make more.
looking for honest, well made wines to pair with their
Then a voice from popular culture said what everyone
cuisine. Bling is out, integrity is in. It’s time to forgive
was thinking ... and the bottom fell out. Panic ensued
Merlot for its past indiscretions and let it be judged on its
as customers abandoned the “grape of the future” and
own individual merits ... as all things should.
(1)
Merlot- Los Carneros - Napa Valley - 2005
Merlot- Los Carneros - Napa Valley - 2005
(2)
W inegrowing N o tes
physiological maturity in sync with their sugar, acid
and pH levels. If the selection is not paired well with
the region, the grape sugars up before it achieves
physiological ripeness, forcing the vigneron to leave
them on the vine past their prime and turning the
winemaker into an interventionist. When faced with
super ripe grapes, winemakers often resort to remedial
techniques like “re-humidification,” adding water back
to achieve reasonable sugar (and thus alcohol) levels.
Others may find they need to remove excess alcohol
through reverse osmosis or spinning cones to bring the
alcohol back to marketable levels. The sole pursuit of
physiological ripeness creates homogeneous, tired and
prune-like concoctions. Aussie wine man Brian Croser
says it best, dubbing these “dead-fruit” wines.
H
ow do you know when a grape is mature? Some
winemakers stress that physiological maturity (the
flavor ripeness that develops largely independent of
easily measurable sugar, acid and pH level) is the end
all in gauging when to pick grapes for great wine.
Winegrowers around the world, particularly in California,
claim they have thrown out their refractometers in
favor of plopping grapes in their mouths. They argue
that the flavors they desire develop late in the game,
often well beyond sugar ripeness.
Sounds romantic: taste the grapes, bring them in
when they taste good. Unfortunately, it’s not that
simple. Ideally and traditionally, farmers cultivated
grape selections matched to their growing region.
Well chosen varieties, clones and selections achieve
(3)
RSV’s approach is all about balance. Flavor ripeness is
important, but not at the expense of sugar and acid.
Selecting a variety and clone suitable to the region’s
climate and heat summation is the key to making an
elegant, complex and cuisine oriented Merlot. It’s an
early ripening grape, budding and ripening up to two
weeks before the Cabernet Sauvignon planted in the
same vineyard. Carneros, with the maritime influence
of the San Pablo Bay, has a climate comparable to Right
Bank Bordeaux. The gentle march to sugar ripeness
develops varietal flavor without loss of structure to
create enticing, elegant wines that are as ideal for the
table as they are for the cellar.
RSV’s certified organic and Biodynamic Carneros
vineyards yield a balanced crop with a reasonably
low leaf-to-fruit ratio, allowing more gentle sugar
development. At harvest, RSV takes each small block
Merlot- Los Carneros - Napa Valley - 2005
of fruit as it reaches the ideal intersection of ripeness
and structure, bringing in healthy, balanced fruit that
allows the cellar to keep the lid on the tech-toolbox.
A harvest like 2005 would be welcome every fall.
Weather was generally cool, especially towards the
end of the growing season, allowing for long hang
time without the risk of too much sugar development
or raisining. The resulting wine’s tannins show welldeveloped, ripe and plush. The color is remarkably
deep and expressive and the acids make the wine
refreshingly bright and alive. After fermentation,
the Merlot rested in 30% new French oak barrels for
nineteen months. In blending trials, a cuvee of 90%
Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc
won the day.
Certified Organic Vineyards,
Biodynamically Farmed
T asting N o tes
Deep, lustrous violet color provides the initial
evidence of near perfect growing conditions. Aromas
of plums, brambly berry, vanilla, licorice and violet
vie for olfactory attention. Merlot’s stock-in-trade
texture, tightly woven, but plush, provides a venue
for lively flavors of plum, pomegranate, cocoa nibs,
olives and herbs. Well-developed, muscular tannins
provide balance as the flavors slowly resolve into a
clean bright finish that begs another sip. (10/08) 174
Barrels Produced.
Merlot- Los Carneros - Napa Valley - 2005
(4)
T he W ine B et ween
M
erlot has been maligned and overlooked. I’ve grown
weary of its defense. A good Merlot is a fabulous match
for so many dishes – duck, pork, sausage, interesting cuts of
beef and a variety of cheeses. It forms the bridge between
delicate Pinot Noir and burly Cabernet Sauvignon. Embrace it
as such. For without a bridge, we sometimes get stuck on the
island, which can become quite lonely.
Until the next wine...
Maria
Revol Nut Server and Sauce Boat
Revol is a revered French company. Family-owned since 1789, it is known for
its fine and durable porcelain bake ware and china. The factory is located
in Saint-Uze, deep in the Rhone Valley, where every single piece of Revol has
been made for over 200 years. This is a refreshing revelation in today’s
world where a majority of products are outsourced.
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Merlot- Los Carneros - Napa Valley - 2005
Merlot- Los Carneros - Napa Valley - 2005
(6)
Braised duck legs with sour cherries
Duck and Merlot is a mighty good match especially when you add cherries into the mix. The mild tartness of the cherries mirrors the fruit in the
wine. Serve the legs with wild rice, Pommes Anna, sautéed greens or the side of your choosing.
Serves: 6
6 duck legs, trimmed of excess fat
1 cup dry red wine
Kosher salt
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
Freshly ground black pepper
2 cups rich chicken stock
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
1/2 cup pitted sour cherries
2 tablespoons sugar
1.
2.
3.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Salt and pepper both sides of
the duck legs well.
Heat a 12 inch sauté pan over medium heat and place the legs skin
side down in the pan before the pan comes to full heat. This will allow the fat to slowly render from the skin while browning.
Cook for 7 to 10 minutes turning once to brown the other side. Remove the legs to a plate.
Drain the fat from the pan and place it over medium high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of fat back to the pan. Add the onions and
the cherries and sauté until the onions are golden, about 2 to 3 minutes.
4. Sprinkle the sugar over the onion mix and sauté for about 1 minute until the sugar caramelizes and bubbles. Add the red wine
and thyme and reduce the liquid to almost dry, about 5 minutes.
5.
6.
Add the chicken stock to the pan and then the reserved duck legs, skin side up. Bring the pan to a boil, cover, and place in
the preheated oven. Braise for 1 hour. Add 1 cup of water to the pan and shake to combine with the thickened stock.
Remove the lid from the pan and continue to cook for 20 minutes to caramelize and crisp the skin a bit. Add more water as
needed,1/4 cup at a time, if pan juices become too thick.
7. Remove
the legs to a serving platter. Strain the sauce and sprinkle the onions and cherries over the duck legs. Serve the
sauce on the side.
(7)
Merlot- Los Carneros - Napa Valley - 2005
Warm-spiced almonds
The spice in the almonds is perfect for the Merlot and many other red wines with bright fruit. Try these almonds with a semi-soft cow’s milk
cheese or chopped and sprinkled over a spinach salad. Yield: 2 cups
2 cups whole almonds
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon each ground turmeric, cinnamon and cumin
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1. 2.
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.
In a medium bowl, toss together the almonds and olive oil. Sprinkle the spices and salt over and toss well to coat nuts evenly.
3. Spread nuts in 1 layer on a sheet pan and roast for 10 to 12 minutes until the almonds start to split. Stir 3 times during roasting
to promote even toasting.
4.
Serve the nuts warm or at room temperature. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
(8)
M erlot
L os C arneros
N apa V alley
2005
Winemaker: Jeff Virnig
Text and Photos: Rob Sinskey
Recipes: Maria Helm Sinskey
Vineyard Manager: Debby Zygielbaum
Tasting and Winemaking Notes Eric Sothern
Printed on 100% recycled paper using soy based ink
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N a p a ,
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