Executive Summary Chanderi is one of the best

Executive Summary
Chanderi is one of the best-known handloom clusters in India, particularly famous for its
sarees, made with mix of silk and cotton. But if we look at its history, Chanderi has been
adapting itself as per needs. Saree is the product of second half of twentieth century
only. Then, there have been changes in the methodologies, equipments and even the
compositions of yarns in past. The heritage is attached with the skills of weaving high
quality fabric products here. The weavers are actually the symbol of the heritage, as they
have been the ones, who produced the kinds of stuff that received appreciation even
from the royals.
Unlike past, in modern time of changes in lifestyle, Chanderi tends to stick with what it
has been doing for decades now. It is because of the inability of those, who lead the
decision-making about the product, to adapt as per the changes. Their ability has partly
been affected by lack of patronage it used to have in past. Till independence royal
families of Gwalior provided the required patronage. After that, state and central
government supported the cluster through purchases of the goods and subsidies. But
that support has slowly reduced to bare minimum and the cluster is on the decline now.
Realizing the difficulties well in advance, the resourceful traders/master weavers have
generated several options for themselves. They have invested in alternative business
activities for a possible shift in future. But unfortunately, the ‘symbol of heritage’weavers, are the most vulnerable unit on the scene, having no options, weavers are
facing increasingly difficult time.
UNIDO’s implementations through Development Programme
UNIDO’s Chanderi 3 years Cluster Development Programme aims at poverty alleviation
through cluster development. This is to alleviate poverty, with cluster development as the
strategy.Programme which is coming to end on June 30, 2006.
It is, therefore, most appropriate to understand the interventions made by UNIDO’s
project and their impact on a cluster. It is also appropriate to understand the learnings of
the project implemented for 3 years.
For the purpose, BASIX has conducted study on Impacts of Intervention. Besides
impact assessment, with the help of information and opinions of the cluster actors road
map for future course of action could be suggested.
¾ Strengthen Existing institutions through capacity enhancement.
¾ Weavers be trained in production quality control like costing, fabric defect,
new technology TQM etc.
¾ Up gradation of looms by introducing take up motion in some looms/TARA
looms.
¾ Silk club be made active and involved for marketing corporate linkages.
¾ Top priority to marketing goods with focus on quality, price and design
¾ Common marketing centers in metros/Tourist places.
¾ Marketing linkages with Dastkar/Women weaves etc.
¾ Introduction of new design/texture development.
¾ Promote Resource Centre to lead the cluster in all technology related aspects
and especially quality related issues of Geographical Indication Act.
¾ Initiate work on use of Geographical Indicators certification aggressively.
¾ Take up Advocacy for better transport facilities, including roads.
¾ Develop Dye House further, with some conditional facilities to others.
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¾ Yarn Bank, having just gray/plain yarn, for timely availability, quality genuine
rates.
¾ Creation of base for strong MFI.
¾ Initiate promotional activities jointly with Kota, Maheshwar, etc.
¾ Make suitable arrangements to ensure health care facilities, particularly for
women.
¾ Make suitable arrangements for education for weavers’ children/adult literacy.
With proper interventions and building on the activities done during past 3 years in the
areas of raw material procurement, design development, process up-gradation, dying &
coloring, direct marketing & Exports through Building/Strengthening of institutions, up
scaling the facilities available/ existing with resource centers, exposure visits, frequent
buyer-seller meets, with the help of Public & Commercial service providers, Cluster can
achieve positive growth thereby improving well being of weavers family with in
stipulated four years.
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Introduction
Chanderi is a small town in the Ashok Nagar district of Madhya Pradesh. Situated in
Vidhyachal hills in north of the state, it has beautiful historical places in and around it.
But it is poorly connected with other bigger towns/cities. The nearest railway station and
mainline road links are over 30 kilometres away. Chanderi has a population of around
30,000. With about 3,500 looms actively working, almost 60% of this population is
directly or indirectly dependent on the handloom business being carried out here for
centuries. Pranpur, another village in neighbourhood, also has almost similar degree of
dependence on weaving, with about 250 functional looms.
Cluster details are given in annexed Diagnostic report.
Impacts of Intervention
The intervention aims to address issues related to four areas
Factor conditions (GI certification, Acccess to capital/credit, Dying, Yarn Bank, Technical
up gradation etc.)
Demand conditions (Market Linkages, Exhibitions and Fairs, Diversification of Products)
Industry conditions
Institutional conditions. (Bunker vikas sanstha, chanderi Silk Club, Chanderi
Development Foundation etc.)
The initiatives and impacts could be understood for all these four conditions in the
external context as under:
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1. FACTOR CONDITIONS:
Initiatives taken to influence Factor Conditions
It is all about influencing the factor conditions, including the mindset of people involved in
this business at various levels. Under this project, following important initiatives have
been taken up –
1. ‘Geographical Indicators’ (GI) Certification: Recently the Chanderi Development
Foundation, an institution set up under the project to address larger issues, has been
successful in getting the GI certification. It may play an important role to stop power
looms to produce the material, which is identified as handloom product of Chanderi,
with the specifications mentioned in it. This initiative might go a long way, but it yet to
be seen. A detailed study has been commissioned on its implementation and the
necessary steps of forming the appropriate forums and a two-pronged strategy of (a)
promotion in the initial phase and (b) thereafter if required possible litigation at a later
phase has been worked out.
2. Access to Capital/Credit: In the initial phase, 60 SHGs were formed, with average
ten members in each. They were required to save an amount regularly, as per the
decision taken by them collectively. It was envisaged that this money would be used
as the capital for their future activities, apart from enabling them take care of their
emergency needs within the group. The access of these groups to credit from
financial institutions was very low, as the banks were not ready to give them loan.
This saving gave them some sense of security about that as well.
With emergence of BVS, each member of the groups joining it was required to
contribute Rs. 2000/- as the capital. Initially, Rs.70,000/- were received from the
members of seven groups. Now there are 13 groups in BVS, with a contribution of
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Rs.0.13 million and another six are in the process of joining, with their contributions.
That would take their capital to Rs.0.19 million. UNIDO has contributed Rs. 0.15
million as training support. Besides this, government of Madhya Pradesh has given a
support of Rs. 0.5 million per annum for three years. This support is flexible and
allows its usage as per the need of the organization. Government is also giving 20
Tara looms, each costing Rs. 21,000 to weavers with 75% subsidy.
The strength of the BVS has been acknowledged widely. There is increased
willingness among financial institutions to offer those loans and support. Under its
social responsibility component, Oil and Natural Gas Commission (ONGC) gave a
grant of Rs. 0.5 million towards development of the weavers. National Minority
Development Commission (NMDC) has given a soft working capital loan (at 5% p.a.)
of Rs. 0.855 million to BVS through Hast Shilp Vikas Nigam (HSVN), since BVS had
not completed required period of three years of its existence. State Bank of Indore
has offered a loan of Rs. 80,000 each to four SHGs, but it has not been availed so
far. Besides this, Nirvana (an NGO) has given an interest free loan of Rs. 0.1 million
in Feb. 04, to be returned in four equal quarterly installments starting Feb. 06. So, the
financial base is increasing.
With increase in strength and sustainability of BVS, the credit, perhaps, would not be
a constraint for it. The presence of UNIDO on the scene has made lot of difference in
this regard, providing credibility to the institution.
3. Dyeing: Improved practices around fastness of the colours have been initiated,
which is at present one of the major quality related issues in case of Chanderi
products. Hot water dyeing with adequate duration has been introduced among
the weavers, who are linked with BVS. Other weavers and traders/master
weavers also understand the importance of this, but still they have not adopted
the new practices. That is why they are not getting sustainable markets.
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4. Yarn Bank: A yarn bank has been started at BVS level to keep control on the
supply, quality and price of yarn. It also gets a relief of 1 ½ % as transport and
stocks subsidy. It is still in infant stage and looking at the total costs involved to
keep the stock and its management, it is still under serious consideration of the
team, how far to go in this direction.
5. Technological Up gradation: Some efforts are being made to introduce new
technological practices and equipment, like warping machine could be helpful in
faster filling. Likewise Tara loom is another proposed new equipment to be
introduced. But these things are yet to be in place.
Impacts
Geographical Indicators (GI) Certification: Yet to be seen, as it has been received
very recently. But it seems that there will be a definite impact on the cluster as a
whole, provided it is used effectively and aggressively. To force the power looms and
others involved in forged-production under the brand name of Chanderi to stop the
foul practices, some legal steps might have to be taken. There has to be a campaign
about the certification and about actions taken against those breaching it, on a
reasonably large scale. Only then this achievement would be able to create a real
impact. However efforts for linking the Foundation with their natural allies for this
initiative, i.e. the State Government, is on.
Credit/Capital availability: It is critical for sustainability of BVS, to match the
requirements of the growing sales. It has an indirect impact on the overall business,
as the sustainability and smooth working of BVS has larger implication, particularly
for the weavers. The movement has started in this direction.
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Dyeing: Those directly involved in BVS or those who are the members of SHGs and
are getting work and advantage of improved quality of product. Colour fastness being
a major issue, new dyeing practices have increased acceptance in the niche
markets, which could fetch orders and better rates. Beside this, three persons
including a woman have got work in dye house. Others have got training about
dyeing practices its importance, etc. They have got their capacity built for all times to
come. Those not getting work from BVS are not benefited yet, but the increased
demand of the product has excited them about the possible gains in future.
Traders/master weavers – are aware of the introduction of new dyeing practices, but
are not yet trying to adopt. The costs are the major concern at present.
Yarn Bank: No significant impact has been seen yet, as the initiative is very new and
at low scale. But the weavers’ body will have a better control on the pace of work, as
the timely yarn availability is important. The yarn traders at Chanderi keep very
limited stocks of yarn, since they have to keep large range of shades, to meet the
requirement of free-style production system of the cluster. They take lot of time to
arrange larger quantities, required by BVS, ordering it with Coimbatore traders.
Therefore it was desirable for the latter to have its own stocks of yarn.
DEMAND CONDITIONS
Initiatives taken to influence Demand Conditions
1. Market Linkages: Bunkar Vikas Samiti, the newly formed weavers’ institution,
has been greatly helped to access market. The link with Fabindia is a big step
forward. Likewise, some more possible linkages are in the pipeline, including one
of the global leader MNCs, which is exploring the possibility to buy from BVS. The
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leverage all these links may provide could be critical for sustainability of the BVS.
A joint market strategy is also being planned for Chanderi, Kota and Maheshwar.
It is important to note that these linkages have not been created by taking away
market from the master weavers.
The total sales of last year stood at about Rs.3.6 millions and this year, it is
estimated to be over Rs.8.0 millions. Fabindia would buy the lion’s share (around
2/3) of the produce. As per the representative of the purchasing agency of the
company, they are happy with the quality, despite some concerns related to
colour fastness of one particular colour and manufacturing defect in some pieces,
which is expected to be resolved soon. Most of those aware of the latest
developments at Chanderi, agree that BVS is capable of producing high end stuff,
provided it takes extra care about quality, design and price, which is essential to
compete in the quality conscious market.
2. Exhibitions and Fairs: Some traders/master weavers were helped to participate
in some national and international exhibitions and fairs with their goods, under the
project. This was aimed to let them see and understand the changing market
scenario and to sell their produce. It has given them exposure to the outside
world and helped them know about the changes taking place in designs and
diversification, in bigger markets. Weavers and members of CSC/traders/master
weavers participated in the globally famous international textile exhibition called
Hem Textile, in Germany., BVS weavers participated in exhibition in London and
a female weaver participated in a fair in Pakistan, sponsored by Homenet South
Asia, a sister concern of SEWA.
3. Diversification of Products: New products have been introduced under the
project, partly on the demand from the buyers and partly due to realization of the
changing markets. Lady suits, dupatta, curtains, bed covers, table covers,
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cushion covers, etc. has been introduced. It has increased the possibility of
reaching to larger range of outlets in the market. New combinations of yarns have
also been used. For example, the silk - silk, silk - cotton, silk - 2 cotton, silk – 3
cotton, etc. are being used for making the product suitable to the demands and
trends. Sizing was another important area, which sought attention and has been
addressed.
Impacts
Market Linkages: The practical advantage has been restricted to BVS so far. The
traders/ master weavers have not taken any advantage from the efforts in
this direction. The orders so far received by BVS are from markets not
traditionally linked with Chanderi products. Most of these are for upper class
buyers, who are ready to pay high prices for high quality product.
Exhibitions & Fairs: It seems that the traders/master weavers and group member
weavers have found the experience, learning and enjoyable, alike. But in real
sense, the traders do not seem to have taken the advantage so far. They perhaps
took it as an experience of seeing foreign market. Some more aspire for a similar
experience. But nobody actually mentioned about the possible changes they
propose to make in the production or marketing practices. BVS members
however feel they would be able to match the requirements of the changing
markets on the strength of technological changes they are adopting and quality,
including new designs fitting in the trends.
Diversification: The larger range of combinations has clearly given a new range of
consumers, open to consider buying Chanderi-made material. It has pleased both
the weavers as well as the traders/master weavers. Both feel it would add a new
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dimension to the future of otherwise declining Chanderi’s demand. The impact
has started appearing in the form of new orders around the new products. It
would benefit the cluster as a whole. Particularly, the development of new
designs have got appreciation among the designers, buyers and those who have
seen the changing time of the cluster.
INDUSTRY CONDITIONS
As such, nothing has been done consciously to influence the industry conditions. But
there are a couple of developments, which would to some extent influence the industry.
The Geographical Indication Certification would definitely add to the resistance against
production of the handloom allocated materials on power looms. But it would require, as
said before, effective and aggressive steps to be taken in this direction and to be
publicized adequately.
Secondly, the diversification of the products made in the cluster would influence the
handloom industry, in whatever little way.
INSTITUTIONAL CONDITIONS
Initiatives taken to influence Institutional Conditions
True to the spirit of the project, maximum efforts have gone in this direction. There
are a number of initiatives for institutional development, taken up as stated below:
1. Self Help Groups: Sixty self-help groups of weavers have been organized, with
an average of ten members in each. Eleven of them are all women, 32 all men
and 17 mixed groups. These SHGs involve all the sections of weavers, across
castes and communities. Each one of these groups has a particular amount to be
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saved monthly and deposited with the group by each of its members. They
collectively decide about the amount. By July 05, all SHGs had a total amount of
Rs. 0.522 million in their accounts, with an ongoing total monthly contribution of
over Rs. 33,000.
2. Bunkar Vikas Sansthan (BVS): Formation of BVS was not part of the initial plan.
It evolved out of the process of working with SHGs for helping them take up all
the important activities related to business. It was realized during the process that
it was difficult for a small group of weavers’ to get into so many things together,
with limited resources and time left after weaving. Therefore, it was decided to
form a bigger group out of these SHGs. This is how BVS came into existence. It
is a federation of the SHGs to take care of the larger issues of production,
marketing, finance, management, social importance, etc. It started with seven
groups consisting of 70 members, later adding another 60 members. Now it is
planning to add another 60 members. Therefore, right now there are about 190
members actively and directly part of BVS. The process of adding new members
would continue as long as it keeps getting increasingly large enough quantities of
orders and as long as there is willingness among weavers to join. According to
BVS, each of the members joining it needs to contribute Rs. 1000 towards capital
(An SHG of 10 - Rs.10,000).
BVS has an executive committee of 19 members, including 5 women, to take all
major decisions regarding business. There are two sub committees also. One is
responsible for all marketing related tasks. It is yet to take full control of the
affairs, as the marketing is too complex an issue for them to handle. The other
one is for production, including allocation of jobs, fixation of wages, payment to
the weavers for their work, etc. It is relatively better matured up. Then there are
‘Vyavasthapaks’, one from each SHG to take work, keep account of supplies and
payments to the group members. He is paid 3% of the total payment by BVS for
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her/his effort. The dyeing house and yarn bank are under the control of BVS,
which has an office, with accounts section, room for stocks and for the meetings.
There is a general body consisting of all BVS members. It is the apex body,
responsible for budget approval, ratification of all decisions and actions.
3. Silk Club: Has twelve executive members. Most of them are traders and master
weavers. A couple of them lead the cooperatives. But despite being the
representative body for the whole cluster, has no representation from common
weavers. The role of the club is to take up issues of common interest related to
trade, for example, taxes on traders and a railway counter at Chanderi. But for
project team, it is supposed to be the apex body of master weavers and traders.
Involvement of the representatives of the club so far has been limited. They have
participated in Hem Textile in Germany, an exposure to Varanasi and a few other
places. The Varanasi visit seems to have motivated them to some extent. An
expert weaver has been given training there and it is anticipated that he would
make the required changes in the weaving technicalities, which could reduce the
costs and help in increasing the pace of production & in developing better
designs.
4. Chanderi Development Foundation (CDF): CDF is the representative body for
the whole cluster. Members of CDF include four weavers, including women
weavers and also traders and master weavers. It is a broader registered platform
for overall development of Chanderi. Policy level issues would be addressed on
this platform. Recently, it has got ‘Geographical Indication Certification. It would
be the responsibility of CDF now to take full use of it in the interest of Chanderi
business development. It is being viewed as the brokering institution of the
cluster.
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5. Capacity Development: There are a number of activities taken up for capacity
development of the members of all the institutions as listed below:
− Training programmes for the members on dyeing, design, quality, new
technology, raw material, etc. Some more programmes are planned in near
future.
− Exposure visits for weavers, traders/master weavers to enable them know the
latest developments in the marketing, technologies, practices, designs and
products. These exposures have been particularly helpful in empowerment of
women and other weavers in terms of enhancing their confidence.
− Weavers have a big say in affairs of the BVS and SHGs, thereby inculcating in
them leadership qualities and the confidence to run the institution.
− Two traders were taken for exposure visit to Varanasi for motivating them to
adopt new technologies, being practiced there. An expert weaver from Chanderi
has been trained there. He would incorporate those changes in looms and
weaving practices here, which could make significant changes in the production
and costs.
6. Other social issues: Some social issues, related to empowerment, health and
education are being addressed. Involvement of women is ensured at all levels of
project work. There is reasonable amount of representation of women in
executive committees of all the important bodies. They are encouraged to
participate in exposure visits. One of the weavers has visited Pakistan to
participate in an exhibition (See Box 2). About 80 women are enrolled in literacy
classes and they are taking interest in learning. There was no lady doctor in the
town at the time of start of the project. To begin with, services of a qualified
doctor were taken particularly to ensure health related support to women. Then
successful efforts were made to get a lady doctor posted at Chanderi.
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In the process of women empowerment, about 150 women have constituted a
forum, they have named ‘Hamari Duniya’. This would serve as the platform for
women’s common issues.
Impacts
SHGs: These groups are active and members seem satisfied with them with savings
and credit activities. But another important binding factor seems to be the BVS now.
They all feel that some day, they all will be active part of that and get more work, with
genuine wages attached. While there are 130 members already in BVS and 60 more
are in the process of joining it, others wish to join as soon as possible. The best time
from their point of view could be when there are sufficient orders to take care of their
needs, for optimum amount of work. They don’t want to take risk of losing contact with
traders/master weavers, before getting sure of sustainable link with BVS.
Bunkar Vikas Sansthan: Formation of BVS has created a major impact on the cluster,
particularly to address the main objective of poverty alleviation. All stakeholders have
recognized it as the main institution of the weavers in Chanderi. There are other
weaver institutions also, like cooperative societies, but the credibility of these is not
very high in terms of objective to serve weavers. Most of these have become the
pocket institutions of some master weavers, who have turned into bigger traders,
taking the advantage of relief that governments used to give to cooperatives. They are
seen as ‘frauds’.
Silk Club: It is the representative body of the traders/master weavers. They thought
that UNIDO should link them with agencies like Fabindia. They also believe that some
day they will get access to such buyers, who are in touch with BVS right now. On the
other hand, there will be strong resistance if BVS is helped in developing a link with a
buyer of a trader/master weaver. They wish to encroach into the market segment of
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BVS, but don’t want it to encroach into their territory. They appreciate the efforts of
providing exposure to relevant markets and clusters.
Chanderi Development Foundation : Doesn’t seem to be having much of a practical
role in the poverty alleviation project right now. There is not much on its agenda
currently excepting for implementation of GI Act.
Status of initiatives on Factor Conditions:
GI certification – In case the project ends soon, the weavers (poor) might not be
in a position to take any advantage of this. The traders/master weavers also may
not be able to make full use of this, as they would like to avoid hassles, inbuilt
with enforcement of GI. Government officials never have such will power to work
for that.
Access to Credit/Capital – To meet the financial requirement for an annual turn
over of Rs. 8.0 millions, some more finance mobilization will be required and BVS
is not fully capable for the same.
Dye House and Yarn Bank – The improved dyeing practices and the new dye
house would need excellent management. Without professional inputs, it might
not be carried forward for long. As such, dye house and the practices introduced
might not survive in isolation.
Status of initiatives on Demand Conditions:
Market Linkages – Ability to sustain the existing linkages might be good enough if
guided well and if they ensure the quality, but to seek new linkages, BVS would
need support for the time, long enough to procure and serve some big orders.
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Exhibitions & Fairs – Just financing by government might not enable them
participate, procure orders and fulfill the requirements. It might end up with a
tourist like visit.
Diversification – Does not carry much of a meaning in isolation. Needs to be
backed by marketing, designing and proper management of affairs.
Industrial Conditions: No initiatives focused on industrial conditions taken.
Status of initiatives on Institutional Conditions:
• SHGs: The independent potential of SHGs is not beyond savings and loaning
to its members. This could actually work as the backbone of the BVS.
• Silk Club: This group of traders/master weavers has not engaged itself much
in the process and they have just started getting some enthusiasm. Their
methodology of support for the cluster in the form of new technology
introduction or creation of new (e.g. export market) can come only with some
more sustained handholding support.
• Chanderi Development Foundation: Not much different from Silk Club. It
doesn’t seem to be having on its agenda the socio-economic concern for
weavers, as envisaged in the plan.
• Bunkar Vikas Sansthan: There is a sense of togetherness, ownership and
enthusiasm among the members of BVS. They have started involving in the
decision making and action taking.
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VISION
Chanderi will offer its unique high value added fabric to
exports and niche retail stores to suit the high end of the
domestic and international markets.
The turnover of the cluster will increase by 20% there by
empowering the weavers and enhancing the well being of
at least 1000 weaver families, with indirect impact on
remaining 2500 by and end of 2010
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Strategy
On the basis of the available data its analysis and Interaction with Stake holders
following strategy could be made for further implementation: –
1. Promotion/Strengthening of institutions
-
Strengthening Bunkar Vikas Sansthan institution through its capacity
enhancement to reduce its dependence on outside support. Following issues
need to be addressed as soon as possible:
a)
Institution Development and Management –
ii. Team Work
iii. Leadership
iv. Dispute Management
b)
Production Management – quality, schedules, designing, trends, pricing,
exposures.
-
c)
Systems Management
d)
Marketing
e)
Accounts and Finance
Development of vision and create a professional CEO’s from weavers for BVS
business
-
Quality, designing and marketing are the most immediate and foremost need. It
would bring sustainability quickly and will allow all other things to happen.
Education of the buyers about the products is critical factor to address.
-
Development Research and Development section under production, with a core
fund backing it. Some of the profits earned by BVS could be passed on to it.
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Efforts could be made to develop designs, which could not be made on power
loom.
-
. Promotion of Silk Club with Chanderi it with clear roles and responsibilities.
-
Help BVS tap market segments, which are not the major territory of
traders/master weavers.
-
Proper utilization of Resource Centre to deliver and be accessible to all
stakeholders.
2. Promotion/Strengthening of Marketing
Focus on quality, price and design to ensure faster growth, involvement of
large number of weavers, higher gains for all the weavers, ability to hire
professionals and the sustainability.
Identification of agencies, which have mandate of working with artisans only
and develop linkage with them.
Development of common catalogue
Development of new textures
Training in design development
Initiative on openenining of common market outlets in metro towns with
Chanderi Silk Club.
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B2B meet to develop linkages with corporate buying house.
Initiate work on use of Geographical Indicators certification as a brand and
thereafter as a legal case.
3. Promotion/Strengthening of Production
Skill up gradation of weavers in production Technology.
There could be a case taken up and publicize to the extent that others don’t find
it worthwhile to imitate Chanderi products.
Up scaling of Dye House with some conditional facilities to others, including
traders/master weavers.
The dye house at Resource Centre needs to be active. Better dyeing facilities
could ensure better availability of yarn with yarn traders, who could be able to
keep stock of larger quantities of plain yarns, which they don’t have right now.
The dye house should have some basic equipment to check quality, working
like a lab. Natural dyes could also be used for high-end markets.
Up scaling of Yarn Bank to ensure timely availability, quality and reasonable
rates. It would help in bringing the source of yarn closer.
4. Promotion/Strengthening of MFI
Creation of base for a strong micro finance institutions.
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5. Social Initiatives
i.BVS should take steps to ensure health care facilities, particularly for women,
which are presently in very poor conditions. Availability of female doctor in
government hospital should be insisted. In case, it doesn’t succeed, it should
have an arrangement of its own, as soon as it is in a position, financially.
ii.Make suitable arrangements for education for weavers’ children. BVS could
initiate own its own a school providing good quality education to their children.
It could be a viable proposition in itself. Besides, the literacy work for adults
initiated already should continue with full vigour.
Advocacy for better transport facilities, including roads from Chanderi to nearest
links. Correspondence and meetings with relevant authority should be initiated.
This could be taken up at Chanderi Development Foundation. Efforts may also
be made to make it easy, at least within the state, for the traders to move with
their goods, without making multiple level/repeat taxes.
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Value chain pre intervention
1
2
Procurement of
Raw material, eg
Silk, cotton & zari
30%
Dyeing
Silk and cotton
2%
3
Winding
Warp and weft
4
Warping
&
2%
1%
beaming
5
6
7
Reeding & warm joining, (Raach
filiing, naka binding)
7%
3%
Card cutting
or
Jala filling
30%
Weaving
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Sale price master
weaver
25%
Value chain post intervention
1
2
Procurement of
Raw material, eg
Silk, cotton & zari
25%
Dyeing
Silk and cotton
2%
3
Winding
Warp and weft
4
Warping
&
2%
1%
beaming
5
6
7
Reeding & warm joining, (Raach
filiing, naka binding)
7%
3%
Card cutting
or
Jala filling
35%
Weaving
24
Sale price master
weaver
25%
CHANDERI CLUSTER MAP PRE INTERVENTION
Raw material
Silk – Bangalore
Zari- Surat
Cotton- Coimbatore
WEAVERS
Total Looms - 4000
Working Looms – 3650
Big Master Weavers-12
Small Master Weavers-44
Resource Centre
Textile Training
governed
by Handloom
Institute for training &
deptt.
certification of
Sarees
Business
Developmen
t Service
(BDS)
BVS
State
Government
Loom Suppliers
National Market
Exhibitions,
wholesalers,
Retailers,
institutions,trader
s
Support Institutions
Financial: NCMDC
International Market
Support Institutions
Technical: NID, NIFT & Others, CEDMAP
Financial: SIDBI, NABARD Banks, NCDC
25
Annexure
A DIAGNOSTIC STUDY
OF
THE HANDLOOM WEAVING CLUSTER OF CHANDERI
MADHYA PRADESH
Prepared under the aegis of the
GOVERNMENT OF MADHYA PRADESH
and
UNITED NATIONS INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ORGANISATION
Cluster Development Programme
March 2003
26
CONTENTS
1. Introduction
3
2. The handloom sector in India – a retrospect
4
3. Evolution of Chanderi
6
4. Cluster profile of Chanderi
8
5. Core cluster actors
9
6. Institutional framework & linkages
13
7. Production process of Chanderi handwovens
16
8. The Chanderi design phenomena
19
9. Marketing of Chanderi handwovens
21
10. Value chain mapping
23
11. Swot analysis of the cluster
24
12. Development challenges
25
13. Vision for Chanderi
28
13. Intervention Chart
30
14. Draft Action Plan- Chanderi
31
Annex A - Poverty mapping
33
Annex B – List of Cooperative Societies
36
Annex C – Consumption of raw materials
37
Annex D – Dyeing process
38
Annex E – Value chain mapping
40
Annex F – Value addition map
41
Annex G – Reality tree
42
Annex-H Chanderi map- before/ After Intervention
44
27
CHANDERI
Source: Directorate of Handlooms and Handicrafts, Bhopal
28
BADAL DARWAZA, CHANDERI
1. Introduction
An unassuming town of approximately 30,000 people, nestled between the low and
humble hills of Vindhyachal range has been the cradle of not only important historical
events but also of a rich tradition called Chanderi sarees – a product intricately
woven by hand interspersed with the delicacy of the extra weft motifs that has for
times immemorial satisfied the refined tastes of the royalty. An art unrivalled in its
skills today faces the threat of extinction. In the face of machine made substitutes
and cheap imitations, which are wedging their way into the modern consuming
society, the onset of the era of liberalization and end of the subsidy era, hand-woven
textiles need to become competitive, consumer oriented and fashion dynamic, which
an be achieved by strategic intervention.
29
2. The handloom sector in India – a retrospect
India’s textile history goes as far back as five millennium. Its earliest evidence being
found in the excavations of Mohen-jo-daro, its proactive performance in India’s
freedom struggle, each phase spelling out innovation. Art, fusion and vitality. Not
only the myriad fibers and blends but also the plethora of weaves, sensitivity to color
and the versatility of embellishments leaves everyone wonderstruck.
This art or craft of handspun, hand-woven, handcrafted textiles crosses the realm of
art and pervades the life of the craftsperson or the weaver by whom it is inextricably
woven not only with his feelings and emotions but it is also his means of survival.
Even in its overall stage of decline the industry is estimated to provide employment
to 6.5 million people in the country, second perhaps to agriculture.
The past
During the first half of the 20th century there was very little effort to develop the
handloom sector and handloom weavers were pitted against modern textile mills.
They struggled to survive against competition from industrial products, exploitation
by middlemen and the vicious circle of debt. The production was generally of poor
quality because of inferior raw materials and badly organised marketing
infrastructures.
At the time of independence, there were about three million handlooms in the
country but only 1000 active weavers were left in Chanderi. Due to poor marketknowledge, weak market linkages and inconsistency in the quality of products,
weavers were unable to get reasonable price for their products.
30
In the 1960s massive state support started, production and technical improvements
were encouraged, new markets were created, and road connections were improved.
For more than 40 years now, the handloom sector has been receiving assistance
through a wide variety of policy measures at the national, as well as the state
government level1.
Recent trends
With the onset of economic liberalisation in 1991 and consequent changes in policy,
the weaving industry as a whole, now faces a severe crisis. Since 1998, subsidies
have started to decrease and by the end of the year 2000, purchases by
Government corporations have also fallen, in the case of Chanderi from a peak of
20% about five years back to a level of about 10%. (here we will have to bear in
mind that the volumes of production have also gone up substantially in the cluster)
Further, although any assistance given to this industry in the past should have
directly benefited the weaving community, which is the most underprivileged class,
the bulk of weavers have remained impoverished. They may have received a larger
number of orders but their wage rates have not increased for years.
1
These policy measures include the creation of specialised agencies, constitution of co-operatives societies,
protectionist measures, administered subsidies (subventions in terms of working capital, raw material, marketing
support) and massive orders.
31
Traders and Master Weavers have been making larger gains on account of increase
in the total production of Chanderi. They now conduct the majority of sales through
direct sales in metropolitan cities, fairs, exhibitions, and expositions. Although they
have made some investment in the Chanderi cluster, investment of capital in other
businesses or other locations is distinctly visible.
There is an emerging consensus that the best of Indian handloom produced textiles
made of natural fibres have great potential in the international markets. Power looms
cannot replicate the highly evolved skills needed in this type of production. Further,
there is a lot of scope for improvement, experimentation and innovation in the
production process.
With the introduction of contemporary design inputs, strategic market positioning, the
gearing-up of the institutional infrastructure and the support to BDS providers, the
Chanderi cluster with its unique product can withstand global competition by
becoming competitive on account of the tremendous potential it has in niche markets
.
The future
Undoubtedly the sheer synergy of craftsmanship and tradition, the world’s largest
pool of highly skilled textile workers, the added advantage of small runs, the ideal
source of inspiration for couture fabrics and the readiness to design, sample and
weave with international designers -- all this is Indian hand-woven textiles.
The Indian handloom industry is largely dispersed and each pocket has developed
as a specialized cluster with a certain distinction of its own. Whereas some of them
have been able to sustain themselves the others require specific and strategic
interventions to enable the weavers harness their own skill and become selfsustainable.
32
Chanderi2, which is among the best known handloom clusters, occupies a special
place because of its centuries old weaving speciality of producing finely textured
fabrics of silk and cotton embellished with zari woven work3, and more specifically
because of its sarees that have been patronised by royalty. The product is so
popular that it has led to several imitation products4.
2
Chanderi is situated in the Guna district, North of Madhya Pradesh (MP), and at 36 km west of
Lalitpur (Uttar Pradesh).
3
Zari is golden threat used for the embroideries
Chanderi sarees are known for their sheer texture, minimum weight and transparency. The ends are worked
and fringed heavily with gold thread. They often have a plain base with handmade gold dots or motifs of golden
thread placed at regular intervals to make a uniform design.
4
33
3. Evolution of Chanderi
Over the last centuries Chanderi has evolved as a centre for excellence for weaving gold embellished fabrics mainly, sarees, for the erstwhile
royalty and elite.
Chanderi has been originally producing three kinds of fabric:
1. Pure silk – where the warp as well as the weft is wove n in 13/15 denier silk.
2. Chanderi cotton – where the warp and weft are 100s or 120s cotton. The
Chanderi muslins have been known to be superior to Dacca muslins because of
the softness and feel; this was traditionally achieved through the use of koli
kanda a local wild onion which was used for sizing. Today this quality has been
discontinued.
3. Silk cotton – the weaver deftly combines 13/15-denier warp with 100s/120s
cotton in the weft.
The figured effects are produced with the help of an extra weft design, which is a
special feature of Chanderi. Initially zari was used for the figured motifs.
If we compare Chanderi to Varanasi brocades some interesting facts emerge:
•
While Varanasi has beautiful designs only in silk, the designs of Chanderi can
be seen both in cotton and silk fabrics.
•
While the Chanderi weaver can deftly manipulate 13/15 denier, the Varanasi
weaver is used to handling 20/22 denier.
•
The Chanderi muslin, which has been discontinued today, had a definite
superiority over the Dacca muslin due to its traditional sizing techniques.
•
Chanderi has been known for its strong construction and fast colors
•
Gold thread was often the medium of figured motifs and the products ranged
from sarees for the elite and the royal families of Indore and Gwalior, safas or
long scarfs for weddings and cotton pagris which were adorned by the royalty
themselves.
Important Milestones
•
1890: the Chanderi weaver changed from handspun yarn to mill made yarn.
•
1910: the royal family of Scindia brought the Chanderi saree under their
patronage and set up a training center as a result of which gold thread motifs
came into existence in the main body of the cotton muslin saree for the first time.
•
1940: saw the introduction of silk yarn which was procured from Chamundi in
Karnataka and the pure silk saree in 13/15 denier came into existence.
34
•
1951: up till now it was the traditional pit loom in operation which was operated
wit the help of a throw shuttle; the setting up of the government training center
introduced the fly shuttle and the use of dobby and jacquard. This increased
production and consequently the wages of the weavers.
•
1975: keeping in view the changing demand scenario the cluster went forward to
weave yet another variety of fabric which combined a silk warp with a cotton weft.
The traditional cotton muslin gradually vanished and along with it the weaving of
pure silk sarees also declined.
•
1976 – 1995: an era of government support and the phase saw a substantial
increase in the off take by government organizations such as M.P. State Textile
Corporation, M.P. Hasthashilpa Vikas Nigam and the M.P. State Handloom
Weavers Cooperative Federation. An increase in the number of looms
(approximately 4000) was the consequence of active state support to weavers’
cooperative society and of the institutional purchase amounting to almost 20% of
the total output of Chanderi fabric and sarees. In terms of product diversification
the era saw the development of Indian garments such as the salwar suit, stoles
and furnishing fabric. The Rajiv Gandhi Gramodyog Mission (1994) for the first
time gave special training to women and improved looms (Tara Looms) found
their way into the cluster through the Shilpi Bunkar Samiti. Training was also
imparted in silk yarn twisting.
•
1996 – to date: saw the gradual withdrawal of purchases by the corporations due
to their mounting losses (which was in turn a result of mismanaged capital and
overstaffing and the end of the subsidy era). Significantly enough, this period also
witnessed a conscious effort on part of the state government to hand- hold the
cluster in terms of active market interface strategies. The weavers and the master
weavers were introduced to new and direct marketing channels like the metro
haats which saw the growth of a new trading groups and the exposure had
considerable spin-offs in terms of design and market awareness infusing a new
dynamism to the cluster.
•
In the late 90’s the women from the poor households were mobilized into self
help groups and special interventions have been made for women weavers by
the local administration under the ICDP project. Formation of women’s SHGs and
giving them development support under the SGSY scheme has been the
hallmark.
35
4. The Cluster profile of Chanderi
Total estimated population of Chanderi: 30,000
Half of these are estimated to be Muslims and the other half is made up of Hindus
and Jains. The population of Chanderi is prominently engaged in non-agricultural
occupations.
Percentage of population estimated to be dependent on handloom weaving and
allied industry (yarn dealers, traders, warpers dyers etc. apart from the weaver and
his family) in Chanderi is to the tune of 60 %5. With around 3,500 looms in working
condition, 18,000 people are directly or indirectly dependent on the industry for their
living6.
Besides weaving and agriculture there is a considerable number of white-collar
positions in Administration. Other important occupations are stone quarrying and
bidi-making. However, weaving and the resulting trade are by far the main source of
income for more than half of the population.
As Professor Sharma puts it, in his socio-economic study of the town, “Chanderi is
an excellent example of a pre-industrial city with a high degree of protoindustrialisation” (Sharma K.L., 1999, Chanderi 1990-1995, Publication de l’Institut
de Civilisation Indienne, Fascicule 68, Diffusion de Boccard, Paris).
The presence of caste/community structures is very strong in Chanderi. Three main
communities can be found in the cluster - Muslims, Jains and Hindus. In the latter
category, Kolis account for 13 % of households and Brahmans 10%. Muslims
represent 34 % and Jains 12% of households. (Annex A)
THE SOCIO – ECONOMIC PROFILE OF THE WEAVING INDUSTRY
5
Since no census figures are available for the handloom industry this figure has bee estimated on
the following basis:
The number of looms: 3659
The figure multiplied by 3 as per Government norm - indicates total number of weavers.
The number of dyers, the warpers, the traders the yarn merchants, the equipment dealers and the people
employed by them.
6
There have been no headcounts, and some inconsistencies have been found in different sources. These are
estimations done after having talked to the main informants.
36
•
No. of looms established
•
No. of working looms
•
Working looms in the Cooperative sector
-
1145
•
Working looms out of Cooperative sector
-
2514
•
No. of persons directly employed
-
10977
•
No. of persons employed in the Cooperative Sector
-
3435
•
No. of persons employed out of Cooperative sector
-
7542
•
Working Weavers Cooperative Societies
-
10
•
Annual production
-
-
3659
3659
Rs. 15 crores
5. Core cluster actors
Working on an upgraded loom
•
•
•
•
•
•
TRADERS
MASTER WEAVERS
WEAVERS
WARPERS AND DESIGNERS
DYERS
YARN SUPPLIERS
The traders
The traders have been the mainstay of marketing of Chanderi sarees since 1920s.
They are mainly Jains and Maheswaris who were in touch with the rich and the
37
wealthy. They sent out the goods in boxes through the ‘box wallas’. These box
wallas were often Brahmins who specialized in this activity.
The traders are presently an affluent class with other means of income as well. The
traders have been in this occupation for many years and know family related
merchants and traders in many parts of India. The big traders also own large number
of looms upto 100 to 250 looms. This is an “upwardly mobile class”.
They have good marketing contacts, a fairly good sense of design innovation and a
self built capital base. They have directed part of their capital into upgradation of
looms and design, and partly in sectors other than weaving.
This group of core actors however seem to be oblivious to the hardships of the
weaver and is largely concerned with its survival and growth. They are also secretive
about their designs and trading activities.
They can however prove to be instrumental in bringing about capacity building of the
weavers if their outlook can be made more holistic. For instance they are not able to
accept the contribution of the weavers family, particularly the women weavers who
not only weave but also perform winding, weeding and warp joining activities.
The master weavers
This category of weavers have been weavers decades back and today they are
mainly traders who undertake the overall responsibility of taking orders and getting
them executed. They own looms and also get weaving done on contractual basis.
Hence directly as well as indirectly they control on an anything from 5-10 looms to
about 30-40 looms. They supply the weaver with the raw material, which is dyed
under their supervision and the design briefs. They pay for the warping charges
incurred by the weaver and the weaving charges.
The weaver
The small weaver belonging to the Muslim community (accounting for 70% of the
total) and the Hindu community (about 30%) largely lives at a subsistence level.
Only a very small percentage have been able to provide a good living standard to
their families, comprising of education and the necessary consummables. Only some
families have been able to undertake loom upgradation.
Contribution of women weavers
Women are engaged in a major part in the weaving industry although their
contribution is either unpaid or poorly paid for the ancillary activities if performed by
her outside the family weaving. It is estimated that about 25% of the weavers are
female. It has also been found that young unmarried female weavers have a good
standing within the family and are looked upon with respect whereas the married
women weavers enjoy a subsidiary status as they are also engaged in other
household and family related work.
38
The Weaver Profile
Total number of
Weaver Families
3659
Muslim
Weavers
2065
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Scheduled
Class
Weavers
1271
Scheduled
Tribe
Weavers
13
Others
310
The majority of the weavers are Muslims (Ansarees) or Hindus (Kolis).
The other castes in this activity are Khuswas, Mongias and Barars.
Women are mainly confined to the house, although there are some examples of
Muslim women going for work.
Mainly boys and some times girls are given an opportunity to attend school, but
only in the self-sufficient homes. Many of the average earning weaver families
were found to be educating their younger generation before training them on the
loom.
The younger generation (age group 15-18 years) were found to be averagely
educated, enlightened, keen learners and above all ready to adopt weaving as
their profession provided they had reasonable returns.
Absence of social security particularly amongst the average and poor weavers
makes them indebted to the upper income groups such as the master weavers
and traders.
The self-sufficient weaver spend on daily necessities, schooling and if savings
permit on durables such as refrigerators, music systems , television sets.
Upgradation in looms and trade is noticeable amongst the high income trading
and weaving families.
The economic condition of some Muslim weavers is good, that is in terms of their
upgraded looms, necessities of daily living, access to schools and some luxuries.
The economic condition of the other weavers is close to subsistence with family
earnings falling in the range of Rs. 50 – Rs 60 per day. The women weaver is
unrecognized and her contribution is unpaid for.
The looms are the old pit looms situated in dimly lighted sheds where the whole
family lives , cooks, eats , weaves and sleeps.
39
Specialized job workers
The independent weaver assisted by his wife
The reed fillers, winders and the designers
Together they form a specialsed group but are also a part of the weavers’ family.
They perform the pre weaving tasks, which are not only laborious but time
consuming. They are not specially paid for this activity. Except when the designing
requires card punching the job is contracted to specialised persons and paid for by
the master weaver.
Ancillary workers
The dyers
The dyers belong to the Muslim as well as the Hindu community and are skilled and
experienced in their art. Some are proactive in their approach and are prepared to
innovate. The dyeing charges have remained stagnant for quite some time although
the costs of raw material has increased.
Silk is generally bought in grey hanks7 to be dyed locally. On the other hand, the majority of
cotton (80%) is bought dyed from south India and Mumbai by the local merchants. The rest
is dyed in local dyeing houses, by the dyers or through the Government Training Centre at
the instance of the master weavers, or the self-sufficient independent weaver.
A colour bank has very recently been set-up by the district Panchayat at the Training
Centre in 2002 but so far, however, only a few weavers are taking advantage of this
facility
The Yarn dealers
7
Grey making reference to the natural colour not dyed.
40
The conversion of raw cotton or silk into yarn implies very high costs. This is why
local yarn suppliers, master weavers or traders bring cotton and silk yarn from
southern textile mills. Silk yarn is bought from Bangalore and Zari from Ahmedabad
from the wholesale yarn dealers, local yarns supplier supply smaller and customized
quantities to the master weavers and weavers. They are an affluent class and also
possess a proactive attitude.
In 1926, the Gwalior Government, noticing that Chanderi got most of its raw material
for weaving from the South, recommended the introduction of sericulture in Chanderi
as it had a suitable climate. It also recommended that a local industry to make gold
and silver threads be established. Neither of these suggestions took practical shape
(Sharma, p.73, ibid).
Equipment Suppliers
So far the technology is limited, and the processing is craft-oriented.
90% of
weaving is done on pit looms and 10% on frame looms, in which Dobby and
Jacquard attachments are used. In Chanderi there are 400 Dobby and 150 Jacquard
machines.
One loom costs between Rs. 5,000 and Rs. 8,000 (more than one third of the annual
salary of an unskilled weaver). Appliances are made locally and local expertise
exists for conversion of pit looms into metal frame looms. Dobby or Jacquard
machines are purchased from Bangalore and Varanasi.
41
Details of the cluster actors directly involved in the Chanderi handloom-weaving Cluster
•
•
•
Specialized job •
workers
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Input suppliers •
•
• Raw material •
•
• Machinery
•
Modes of
•
marketing
•
Handloom
entrepreneurs
Traders: 12 (employing from100 to 300 weavers)
Master Weavers: 45
Small weavers: 3659
Dyers: 6
Designers: 9
Design Naka fasteners: 10
Warp makers: 23
Warp connectors: 25
Bobbin fillers: 3
Rach fillers8: 11
Funi tiers and fasteners: 5
Border makers (Kinari purane wale): 15
Kinari fillers: 14
Employment: 121
Local yarn suppliers (cotton and silk): 6
Zari suppliers: 4
Dye suppliers: 6
Loom parts suppliers: 4
Employment: 20
Network of local traders: 60-90 % of the total production
Government corporations: 10-20 %
6. Institutional framework and linkages
Main public sector institutions
There are various schemes and Public institutions that could perform a development
role. Apart from the Resource Centre and a small office of MPHSVN all of them are
located outside Chanderi, which does not facilitate inter-linkages. There is, however,
limited awareness of their existence and in the absence of proactivity from both sides
their utility is marginalized.
The state government has set up a high-powered Task Force headed by the Chief
Minister for the development of Chanderi.
Private sector institutions and BDS providers
There are no other private sector institutions in Chanderi other than the
registered Weaver Cooperative Societies (Annex B). The Cooperative Societies
are supposed to provide all possible help (raw materials, technical advice,
8
Heald fillers who pass the warp through the healds
42
purchasing of production, loans, marketing) to its members, and to generally
put at their disposal government schemes. In practice, they are not perceived
to be very effective because most of the benefits are cornered by a select few.
Out of the registered cooperatives only few are functioning. Of these some are
considered to have a very limited role (as previously mentioned, mainly one or two
middlemen profit from them). The others are considered to be active, though they
work in isolation. Out of these, only those at Shilpi Weaver Cooperative Society,
Chanderi and Harijan Mahila Weaver Cooperative Society, Chanderi are considered
to be effective like.
These cooperatives cover around 1,100 of the handlooms.
Trade and business associations
Weavers’ Trade Unions are nonexistent and no other association represents the
weavers’ interests. However, 10 networks have recently been formed They are
defined as a “group of people who get together to collectively reach markets and to
receive feedback on design, colour, preferences in order to be in a position to
upgrade production accordingly”.
A consortium of traders has also been formed (The Chanderi Silk Club) to provide
linkages with international markets. The institutional linkages reveal the substantial
presence of government support in practically all facets of the industry, particularly
technological, design and skill upgradation.
Credit institutions
The credit facilities
What seems conspicuous by its absence is the institutional support structure for
credit facilities and capital investment. Perhaps for this purpose the services of SIDBI
and the State Bank of Indore may be channelised and coustomised to meet the
needs of the weaver. History shows that utilization of credit facilities have been
largely by the cooperative societies under the various scheme of the government.
The master weaver has built his own capital base; this leaves the small weaver who
inevitably turns to the former for his credit needs.
This requires capacity building of local weavers and their families on issues like
credit creation and management of savings and innovative instruments of financing
wherever needed.
The Government Training Center
Set up in 1910 under the aegies of the royal family of Gwalior, the governmenttraining center works with the financial and manpower support from the government.
43
Today it has come a long way in meeting the specific needs of the Chanderi
handloom cluster. It is well equipped with modern looms, dyeing equipment, a
showroom and library.
It is not only a training center with capacity for imparting training in weaving upto 40
persons, but it also meets the day-to-day needs of the weavers in dyeing and
designing in a small way.
The state government has upgraded the centre since 2000 and equipped it with a
CAD/CAM center, a raw material bank a display room for show casing products, a
library and documentation centre. However, the manpower has to be reoriented in its
approach to make the centre more user-friendly and proactive.
Resource Centre, Chanderi
Now under the cluster development initiatives it is proposed to convert the government-training center into a Resource Centre for capacity
building activities of the weavers.
THE INSTITUTIONAL LINKAGES
S.No
1.
Institution
The Government Training Centre (now
the Resource Centre)
Level
Local
2.
Weavers Service Center, Indore &
Varanasi
Madhya Pradesh State Textile Corp.
Central
Government
State
Government
State
Government
State
Government
State
Government
3.
4.
5.
6.
Madhya Pradesh State Handloom
Weavers Federation
Madhya Pradesh Hastha Shilpa Vikas
Nigam
Madhya Pradesh Laghu Udyog Nigam
44
Function
Technical. Design, &Dyeing
Support A Training Cum Meeting
Center*
For Design And technological
interventions
Marketing support, but has now
closed down
Marketing support
Marketing support
Marketing support
7.
State Commissioner for Handlooms
and Handicrafts, Bhopal
8.
District Collector, Guna
9.
Development Commissioner
(Handlooms), Govt. of India
Development Commissioner
(Handicrafts), Govt. of India
ACASH, HHEC, CCIC
NIFT & NID
INTACH
Local office of the Archaeological Survey
of India
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
State
Government
Central
Government
Central
Government
Autonomous
Autonomous
NGO
Central
Government
45
Infrastructural and financial
support, proactive programme
interventions
Support through the District Rural
Development Agency (DRDA) and
the Zila Panchayat under SGSY
and ICDP project
Development and Marketing
Support
Development and marketing
support
Marketing
Design & product interventions
For culture & heritage preservation
For culture & heritage preservation
7. Production process of Chanderi hand-woven sarees and fabric
1
2
3
4
5
Procurement of
Raw material, eg
Silk cotton & zari
By the yarn dealer
Dyeing
Silk and cotton
By skilled dyers
Winding
Warp and weft
Warping by the
warpers and weft
perning by the weaver
Warping
&
beaming
By the warpers
By the weaver and his
family
Reeding & warm
joining, (Raach filiing,
naka binding)
6
Card cutting
or
Jala filling
7
Weaving
By the weavers family
or by card cutters
By the weaver
46
Handloom weaving thus involves laborious pre – loom preparation and highly skilled
and time consuming on - loom process of weaving.
Each stage of the production process has been explained in short for clarity of
purpose.
1. Procurement of raw – material: the raw material is purchased by the master
weaver from the yarn dealers who in turn get the silk from Karnataka . The silk
yarn used is largely imported Chinese or Korean silk. The cotton yarn is procured
from places like Coimbatore in southern India, and Jaipur and is usually predyed. The yarn dealers of cotton also often get customized colors dyed as per the
requirement of the master weaver. However the minimum quantity required for
such dyeing is almost 25 kgs. or 10 hanks. (Annex-C).
2. The dyeing in Chanderi is undertaken mainly for the silk yarn and by dyers many
of whom have been in this skill since long. The silk yarn dying process takes
about 45 to 60 minutes depending on the color. (Annex-D).
3. After dyeing the yarn is loosened or wound on reels or swiftons. This is a prelude
to the preparation of the warp and weft
4. For the weft the yarn is wound on pirns with the help of a charkha and this activity
is usually performed by the members of weavers’ family. Warping is a specialised
process, which is performed by the warpers. The warp yarns are wound on
bobbins, which are arranged across a wooden frame called reel. The yarns from
these reels pass through a reed to be wound around a vertical drum. A warper in
good times would warp 4or 5 warps for 12 sarees each.
5. The next step is the task of passing the warp through the reed and the healds.
The warp threads are then joined to the old warp threads with a deft twist of the
hand of the women folk. This process takes approx 3-4 days.
6. Before the actual weaving begins the weaver sets the design of the border and
the pallav. The respective ends of the design are tied to the a vertical harness
called jala and the process is called jala tyeing. This process takes anywhere
between 3-4 days depending on the complexity of the design. The figured effects
are produced with the help of an extra weft and the number of tillis (or the no of
weft yarns will determine the time taken). That is higher the number more will be
the time taken. However the time reduces if the number of ply in the weft yarn is
more and consequently the weaver can move faster and cover more ground.
However in this case the output is less fine. Similarly higher the reed count more
is the production time.
7. The weaving is performed by one or two very skilled weavers of the same family.
The looms being used are largely traditional pit looms with throw shuttle.
47
8. The Chanderi fabric does not require any post loom process and is cut off the
loom to be packed and sold. Little is done by way of labeling and product
specification or by way of customised packing methods.
Reading (Raach Filling)
Designing
48
Weaving
Position of looms by production type
Total no of estimated looms
Pit and frame looms
:
Dobby
:
Jacquard
:
Tara looms
:
:
3659
3089 (90%pit & 10%frame)
400 (24 levers- 100levers)
150 (60 hooks – 240 hooks)
20
Presently the position of the looms by production type
Sl. No
1.
2.
3.
4.
Name of product
Silk/Silk Sarees
Silk/Cotton sarees
Salwar Suit
Plain
fabric,
Dupattas,
covers/Curtains etc.
Cushion
49
Engaged
looms
1645
1464
500
covers/Table 50
8. The Chanderi design phenomena
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
This cluster is known for producing the most intricate figured effects by jala or
harness which are now done by dobby and jacquards. While some aspects have
been discussed in the evolution the other salient features in relation to design
are:
Fine cotton counts and deniers
combination of strong colours as well as muted tones
amenability of designers to adapt. Today the motifs have come a long way from
the traditional coin, florals,and peacocks to the geometrics. While it was only gold
thread which was used for motifs, today they also use silk and mercirised cotton
for the same to give the product a innovative look
the design layout has been undergoing some changes to match market demand
but yet it remains deficient on several accounts
the maximum reed used is of 2800 dents
design inspiration comes from historical relics, market participation, feedback
from master traders and WSC, Indore. Some traders also use new sources like
design and color books
however motivation to change design is found when there is a confirmed order or
the assurance to sell
This is perhaps due to the laborious pre-weaving preparation for design
The kinds of sarees being produced in Chanderi today may be broadly classified as
follows:
Contemporary;
S.No
Design
Warp
weft
1.
Plain
20/22 denier silk
100s.or 120s
cotton
2.
Buta with zari border
20/22 denier silk
16/18 katan silk
3.
Border with zari
16/18 denier & 2/120s cotton silk
20/22 Katan silk
4.
Half tissue
silk and zari
16/18 katan silk
5.
Tissue with zari border & extra warp
Silk and zari
16/18 katan silk
50
Contemporary floral cutwork
51
Traditional designs
S.No
Design
warp
weft
1.
‘Nalferma’ silk designs woven in the border and body with
20/22 denier silk
100 cotton
3 shuttle and 2 weavers
2.
‘Dandidar ‘bamboo striped border with motifs
20/22 denier silk
100 cotton
3.
‘Chatai’ geometrical border with floral,
20/22 denier silk
100 cotton
coin motifs
4.
‘Jangla’designs inspired by the historical relics
20/22 denier silk
100 cotton
5.
‘Mehndi wale’ haath design inspired by culture uses an
20/22 denier silk
100 cotton
extra warp.
Traditional Saffa”– with coin motif
Marketing
The different phases of marketing of Chanderi products and its modes of selling have been detailed. These phases also earmark the turning
points in the selling modes and marketing mix.
Phase 1 (Pre- independence)
•
•
It all began with royal patronage from the royalties of Gwalior, Nagpur, Indore,
Baroda, Pune.
Gradually it gained substantial visibility as religious and ceremonious wear and
as such was the fabric of the elite.
52
•
•
Later on the Chanderi Sarees were carried in boxes by the master weavers for
the discerning wearer. The box wallas have been an important marketing outlet
since 1920s and their supremacy continued upto1970.
Along with the box wallas the weaver turned master weaver undertook
independent selling activities.
Phase 2 (Post- independence)
•
•
•
•
•
•
The next phase witnessed the setting up of co-operative societies and
Government intervention in terms of institutional buying gave substantial market
support and the product reached a larger population across India.
It is estimated that by mid – nineties the corporations and the Nigams were
buying almost 20% of the output.
Thus there was substantial market expansion. While the reliance on Government
purchases continued, the traders and master weavers also resorted to direct
selling and participation in fairs.
By end of the nineties the government gradually withdrew subsidy support and
the institutional purchase tapered down because of the financial crunch faced by
the state agencies, institutional purchases and piling of stocks
Around the same time as a crash intervention the government promoted active
interface of the master weavers with metro markets, Dilli Haat and trade fairs
This led to the growth of a new class of traders and increased the market
awareness of the cluster in terms of new products and designs
Existing marketing channels
Output- sarees, suits, fabric
Estimated 14 lakh metres, value 15 crores
Cooperative
Societies
Corporations,
govt. fairs eg.
Suraj
Kund, dilli-haat
•
Master
weavers
Exhibitions,
wholesalers,
Retailers,
designers
Traders
Exhibitions
wholesalers
,
retailers
Sometimes the small weaver is also found to be selling directly to the trader. This
kind of selling is generally on poor economic terms for the weavers and could
also be distress selling.
53
•
The role of government, the expositions and direct selling may be estimated as
below.
The purchases by the Government Agencies
(in Rs. lakhs)
S.No.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Name of Corporation
M.P. H.S.V.N
M.P.State
Textile
Corporation
M.P.State
Handloom
Weavers Federation
M P Laghu Udyog Nigam
95-96
76.04
50.00
96-97
92.06
60.00
97-98
82.09
24.00
98-99
76.62
15.00
99-2000
42.52
05.00
2000-01
NA
NA
19.92
38.24
28.65
23.06
08.83
NA
Not
available
NA
NA
NA
25.00
NA
Source: Directorate of Handlooms and Handicrafts Bhopal.
* NA indicates ‘not available’
Summing up
• The developments however were not able to sustain the growth witnessed in the
number of looms.
•
There is little or no product diversification and limited value addition. Even today
sarees form the mainstay of production and sales. (90%).
•
Exports are mainly in terms of indirect exports and the cluster has barely any
concept of servicing export orders and its delivery mechanisms. Although there
has been an instance of a direct export order, which was serviced by the cluster
for MPHSVN, but the absence of regular such orders has been detrimental.
•
Few contemporary designers have worked in this area; Chanderi has gradually
been losing out as a fabric for the elite and the fashion conscious buyer.
•
The market for Chanderi as on date is largely for evening wear in summers and
other ceremonious occasions.
54
10. Value Chain Mapping
For the production process and the marketing channels discussed in the previous chapters, a value chain analysis table and a chart has been
presented which enables a tabulation of the contribution of the various cluster actors as well as helps to ascertain the value addition outside
the cluster.
Value Chain Analysis for Plain Chanderi Saree
The master weaver and cooperative societies in case of Chanderi are very important in the overall value addition process. The contribution
of different actors in the production of a plain saree costing Rs 300/- in value (as a percentage of the total cost) is as under:
Step
Activity
1
2
3
4
Dyeing
Warping
‘Rachh’ filling
Design preparation
Value (%)
addition
2
2
7
2
5
6
7
8
Warp connectors
Border design makers
Motif design makers
Weaving
2
0.5
0.5
30
9
Master Weaver/
Cooperatives societies
54
Services/ material
Dyeing/ dyes, acid, fuel
Warping/Bobbins and warping drum
Filling of iron Comb with Yarn
Making of Customized design on pit loom, Jacquard
Dobby/ cards and machine for punching
Joining of yarn for the new lot
Designing of border as per requirement
Making of Motif for weavers/ master weavers
Providing basic loom for weaving, performing the act of
weaving also performing some other function of pre
weaving like winding, reed filling and jala making.
Provides raw material, design and marketing
Chanderi products are not intended for local consumption. More than 90% of the
production is exported to different parts of India, and less then 10 % to foreign
countries. A negligible proportion is sold to Chanderi tourists.
The traditional product, the “Chanderi saree”, is a high value product which has
always been the favoured choice of middle and upper class saree wearing
consumers as occasional wear, trousseau, and wedding wear all over the country.
Sarees have traditionally been the only product made in the cluster. More recently, however,
enterprising producers have started to diversify into new products9.
In addition, with a Government intervention in 1999 through the state owned Handlooms and
Handicraft Development Corporation in the form of provision of designers, new products like home
furnishings10 have been developed and successfully tested in the Hemtextile Fair in Frankfurt in
Germany.
Links have been made with an Italian buying house, which has lead to a further refinement of
products and has resulted in export orders. These exporters order specific goods (such as curtains or
table cloth) or buy material and transform it into a range of value added items, such as fashion wear
for women or home furnishings such as table linen, and cushion covers (but the volume of orders has
been small.
Value chain map of Chanderi (Annex-E) & (Annex-F)
11. SWOT analysis of the cluster
9
They have started to produce garments such as dupattas (Indian scarves), scarves, dhotis (men wear), turbans,
shawls, lehengas (pleated skirts) made from cotton or pure silk, and
10
Quilts, bedcovers, cushions, table linen and curtains and drapes.
55
The analysis has been done keeping in mind the historical, geographical, social, economic and industry related core issues and conditions
existing in the cluster.
The chart not only lists the swot components but also the implications, which are the likely initiating point of interventions and the basis of a
long run strategy.
S.No.
1.
Strengths
The cluster’s historical lineage & its
nomination as a heritage town
The rich resource of weaving, dyeing
and design skills.
Inherent strengths of Chanderi vis-a vis
other handlooms.
The readiness of the new generation to
enter this trade
Implications
Will promote not only tourism but popularize
Chanderi
Enables product diversification and value
addition
Promote brand and marketing
S.No
1.
Weakness
Lack of water and road infrastructure
2.
Absence of social security
3.
unsystematic dyeing process, being
adopted by many
Dearth of capital investment in the
industry
Implications
Prevents proper dyeing; is a hurdle in the
movement of trade
Encourages captive buying by the big traders
master weavers and encourages distress
selling.
Creates bad product image
2.
3.
4.
4.
5.
6.
7.
S.No
1
2
3
S.No.
1
Weaver is socially, financially and
marketwise backward and vulnerable
The industry is not well linked to the global
markets and fashion dynamics
Poor gender sensitization: women unpaid
workers, with no social or medical security
Strengths
The keenness of women and the new
generation to learn and progress.
Amenability of the product for
diversification according to fashion
dynamics
Development of an export market of
apparel fabric & furnishings
Threats
Competition from power loom and
Varanasi products; influx of imitations
Will prevent the craft from languishing.
Outdated looms & technology, leading to
outdated products & inability to comply with new
requirements
Prevents innovation, encourages social ills
and distress selling
Chanderi has hardly any exports to Its credit
Poor family earnings and insecurities
Implications
Enables to chart interventions
Enables market expansion and creation
International market for Chanderi
Implications
To re – orient the product profile of Chanderi
56
12. Development Challenges
Major issues
Equity and Growth
1.
The output of the cluster has increased substantially in the last decade and the number of handlooms has increased in the same period
against the declining trend at the all India level. Surprisingly, the level of wages have remained static or gone down.
2.
The increase in turnover could be attributed to the evolution and the self-learning of traders, they have internalized or adopted designs,
product development and marketing activities. Also, the tapering it off of the institutional support in marketing has propelled the
master weavers into marketing in the metros: a larger number than ever before are directly interfacing with the consumers instead of
through intermediaries.
3.
There is greater evidence of wealth generation manifested through construction activity (hotels, nursing home, etc.) and investment in
other service industry outside Chanderi.
4.
However, although prosperity has increased in the higher rungs of the handloom industry (traders and master weavers) it has by and
large eluded the weaver community. They continue to be poor and ill paid in relation to the high skill base and the arduous work
involved.
Marketing & designing
1. The designing capacities of the cluster have not kept pace with time. The art of
traditional designing has declined. The best design masters have passed away.
The remaining have limited capacity and no means to upgrade themselves.
There are no modern day designers linked to the clusters, even though in the
past some have been hired by the state agencies. However, they have worked in
a static mode as one-off interventions and the benefit of their work has not
passed to the cluster in any sustainable way. There is total alienation of the
weaver from fashion forecasting issues. As a result, the majority of the weavers
remains untouched by issues relating to design and product development.
2. Sales exhibitions organized by government agencies through out India are strong
channels for sales. However these have been monopolized by few select master
weavers and traders. Due to premium on such channels, there are invariably
cases of bulk benami bookings and resale of facilities. which further limits the
chances of marketing for poorly networked weavers.
3. Most of the production is for domestic market. Even though there have been
small export orders, however the cluster actors are not informed about the actual
sale of such products, country of sale, acceptance/rejection, required
documentation and procedures. Hence the cluster has not benefited in terms of
information relating to exports. In the state sponsored international visits the
government official represents the cluster with little feedback to the cluster
actors. The weaver’s knowledge of consumer behaviour and market trends
continues to be negligible.
4. The domestic market for handloom products is also changing. The consumer is
becoming more discerning and would like to purchase handlooms on value and
merit, and not solely on empathy.
57
5. There is a general trend in the market for customized and small lots. Therefore,
there is need to prepare the weavers in B2C customized mode (which can also
become the core competence of the handloom products.)
6. Along with the importance of traditional marketing channels like exhibition and
sales in Indian cities, etc. the new channels such as e-commerce need to be
explored. There are very good private sector players on the Internet marketing
handloom on line in small and customized lots.
Institutional linkages & Capacity Building
1. Quality of Chanderi product is becoming a critical consideration in marketing
especially for high-end consumers and export marketing. Therefore, improved
quality requires repositioning of the Chanderi product- may be quality based
branding.
2. The information channels in the cluster are
poor. For instance, visits of
designers to the cluster, even those sponsored by government agencies are not
widely known. The interface with weavers is limited to those executing the
order.
3. The resource centre though upgraded significantly is very poor in terms of its
effective usage. Currently courses conducted by the training centre (resource
centre) need total revamping and should be based on the skill development/
capacity building (at the moment the training is on how to weave). The other
facilities in the resource centre like CAD, dyeing etc. need wide publicity and
monitoring by private sector. The general
lack of information or sufficient
exposure of the local staff also impedes the exploitation of these opportunities.
4. There in no system in place through which the cluster can effectively use BDS
(business development services) providers. Even though diverse BDS resources
are present locally, they face several limitations in the absence of effective
institutional framework and therefore do not have a well-defined presence. The
local BDS need more training and exposure.
5. The infrastructure in the cluster is poor particularly, the availability of water and
roads. The former would hamper the dyeing quality in the long run.
6. The impact of f globalization poses a threat to the cluster. Therefore, it is
necessary to have an effective sustainable development strategy for ensuring a
sustainable future.
7. A number of state and central government agencies like the Directorate of
Handlooms, MPHSVN, MPKVIB, Central Silk Board, the Development
Commissioners, Govt. of India, in the Handlooms and Handicrafts sectors
operate different schemes. Each one of them works in a stand-alone mode.
There is a need to improve inter institutional linkages and coordination at the
cluster level to avoid duplication and optimize returns.
58
Different economic segments in the cluster – issues and interventions
SN Segment
Major issues
Remarks
1
Weavers with
Working capital, Health,
Existing interventions are of
less than Rs
mainly unskilled, Poor
generic nature. They need
2500 PM
marketing linkages mostly
focused attention on
doing distress sale either to
working capital solution but
master weaver or to near by
also skilled based capacity
towns. Mainly produce lower
building and social security
range
measures
Weavers with
Heavy dependence on local
Need selected market
less than Rs
traders for the sale of their
interventions through
5000 PM
products and raw material
network mode. Most of
more than Rs
purchase. Occasionally
these are member of
2500 PM
participate in expos organized cooperative societies.
2
in different cities. Mainly
However the Presidents
produce middle range
and Secretaries of the
societies have monopolized
these societies to market
their products.
3
4
Master
Mainly linked to government
Need better marketing
Weavers with
agencies for the marketing of
linkages with high-end
less than Rs
their products e g. HSVN
retailers like Fab India, CCI
10000 PM
participate in selected
C and International fair
more than Rs
national fairs like Delhi HAAT,
participation through
5000 PM
SARAS and Silk Fab. They
government agencies like
are very good in traditional
ACASH. Need designer
designs and pattern making.
inputs on regular basis.
Currently, controlling 90% of
Mainly require buyer-seller
the clusters’ output. They are
meets at Chanderi and
mainly procuring from the first
other Important cities in
three categories. Currently
India. Inputs required for
supplying to the major outlet
the diversification of the
Traders
59
in different metros through
products especially in
agents
garment and furnishing.
60
13. Vision for Chanderi
Chanderi is known for its unique sarees with rich woven embellishments. The Saree
is mainly an Indian dress therefore the market logically should have been limited to
domestic outlets. However, the fabric with its unique characteristics, has immense
potential for conversion into diverse products and for global markets. Informal talks
with different buyers suggests that there is very good scope for exporting from
Chanderi by doing some value addition. Rough estimates suggest that already about
25% of the total output from Chanderi is exported. The exporters, located outside
Chanderi, are making a number of value added items from the Chanderi fabric. The
main value addition is done by using Chanderi fabric for home furnishings like
curtains, table linen and fashion wear for women. The texture of the fabric is very
attractive and suitable for high-end consumers. Chanderi therefore has very strong
grounds to have an export led growth.
The Vision
“ Chanderi will mainly offer its unique high value added fabric among exporters and
niche retail stores to suit the high end of the domestic and international market by
the year 2005 “.
This could be achieved by the following focused interventions in the cluster:
1. Branding and effective use of Geographical Indication provisions
2. Better technology usage in the area of pre-loom and post loom activities,
including dying.
3. Better infrastructure
4. Effective marketing linkages.
5. Empowerment of private sector
Revitalization of the government Training Centre into a high grade technical
Resource Centre.
The strategy
The above-mentioned issues are not new, and known to cluster actors for long. In the past also there have been a number of attempts to
provide solutions for the typical problems. Under the Cluster Development Programme the thrust will be on sustainable solutions of these
issues by strengthening the social capital and linking the cluster with BDS (Business Development Service) providers. The following
strategy would be adopted:
As the cluster is dynamic with increasing turnover and capacity of looms over the last decade, the primary thrust would be to enhance its
competitiveness by bringing synergy between the different segments and players in the cluster. The cluster will be viewed as an organic
whole with diverse groups, each of which needs to be strengthened in coordination with the other.
•
•
•
•
•
•
The private sector would be empowered to steer its own development through development of local institutions, networks, consortia
and self help groups. These would be professionalised and made market savvy.
Quality awareness and related training in the area of upgradation of skills, designs, dying practices pre- loom and post- loom
processing and finishing, packaging and labelling would be important keeping the different market segments in mind.
Special efforts would be made to take the cluster into export, led growth for which the product image and brand building would be
promoted.
The cluster would be linked to effective BDS (Business Development Service) providers. Potential BDS would be identified in local
and nearby areas, if possible and developed through training and exposure.
The role of support institutions vis-a vis the cluster would be strengthened and developed in concert
In all development efforts the weavers would be the focus group with special emphasis on youth and women to impart greater
dynamism and sustainability.
61
•
•
The health and social needs of the weavers would merit on going attention
Socially responsible behaviour and fair trade practices would be promoted among the upper crust of the cluster, i.e. among the traders
and the master weavers.
The strategy would be operationalised through the following:
•
•
Transforming the government-training centre at Chanderi into a powerful
technical Resource Centre through public private partnership for creating a
business environment conducive to small and micro- enterprises by providing
high-grade services to meet the needs critical to the success of the cluster. To
begin with there would be a joint private and public sector Advisory Board for the
centre which would determine the services to be provided to the cluster, and help
identify the required resources to do so. It would work as an institution for the
capacity building of local weavers in value added products by regular feedback
from the market on new products, problems faced by buyers, and technical
solutions thereof. The ultimate objective is to revitalize the resource centre and
make it an autonomous and demand based service center.
There are no private sector institutions in Chanderi. Most of the cooperative
societies are working in isolation and benefits are derived by a select few. Some
efforts have been made in the recent past by the traders/master weavers to
organise themselves in a consortium. There is a need to develop small networks
to promote cooperation and enhance competitiveness of the cluster. There is no
umbrella institution in the cluster; as a result the harnessing of available
resources for the development of Chanderi is very poor even though there are
various schemes, a taskforce for the overall development of Chanderi and plenty
of political support. However, in the absence of effective cluster level leadership
most of these resources remain either untapped or under utilized. As part of the
project interventions a strong cluster level private sector driven institution will be
encouraged to spearhead this process. The basic objective of such institution will
be to work for the sustainable and holistic development of the cluster including
building of critically important infrastructure in the cluster.
STRATEGY- Breaking Isolation
•
Cluster as an organic whole with diverse groups.
•
Enhancing competitiveness through synergy between different segments and
players.
•
Building linkages
o
Inter firm
o
Networks of firms and support institutions
o
Networks/associations and policy environment
62
Intervention chart
Cluster Development Programme
Chanderi
Social
Components
Sustainable
development
Health
Education
& heritage
Gender
Finance
Institution
building and
networking
Branding
Marketing and
designs
Product
diversification
Capacity
building of
cluster and
cluster actors
Market
Intelligence
Technology &
innovations
Creation of
sustainable
institution
Revamping
existing
networks
Integration of
development
efforts
Creation of
hard marketing
consortiums
MCGFS
Strengthening of
resource centre
Creation of cluster level
institution
63
Dyeing and
finishing
Infrastructure
Draft Action Plan- Chanderi
SN
Activities
1.
1.1
1.3
Marketing
Common Website (Already working at UNIDO
www.chandericluster.org)
Common brochures (Spade work initiated will Silk club/UNIDO
be finalized by June 2003)
Product diversification and sampling
NIFT
1.4
Market Strategy- national and International
1.2
1.5
1.6
1.7
1.8
Implementing
agency
Independent
consultants
Participation in Exclusive Fairs, Expos national HSVN/
and International fairs/ exposure visits
India/NIFT
Working on the possibility of use of Chanderi HSVN
trade mark
2.3
2.4
2.5
2.6
2.7
NIFT
Upgradation of on-loom techniques (To NIFT/ HSVN
diversify in furnishing and to improve quality.)
Training on Computer based designs and Commissioner
patterns
handloom
and
handicrafts MP
Design upgradation consultancy services
NIFT/
/NMCP
(Netherlands)/
independent
consultants
Improving dyeing quality
NIFT
Training of product Checkers
NIFT
Exploring the possibility of vegetable dyes
64
NIFT
UNIDO
State govt
UNIDO/state
government
HSVN/ UNIDO
Fab HSVN
Designing of information, poster, leaflets and NIFT
other parameters for quality
Collective participation/ Exposure visits/ buyer UNIDO/ HSVN
seller meets in selected Cities (Clusters visits,
study tours)
2. Quality Improvement and Design Development
2.1
Upgradation of pre-loom activity
2.2
Sponsoring agency
HSVN/
Commissioner
Handloom
and
Handicrafts MP
HSVN/
Commissioner
handloom
and
handicrafts MP
Commissioner
handloom
and
handicrafts MP
Commissioner
handloom
handicrafts MP
Commissioner
handloom
handicrafts
Government
Netherlands.
Commissioner
handloom
handicrafts MP
Commissioner
handloom
handicrafts MP
Commissioner
handloom
handicrafts MP
and
and
MP/
of
and
and
and
2.8
New colours designs and layouts
NIFT
2.9
New technology and new raw material
NIFT
3. Creation of social capital
3.1
Creation and capacity building for specialized BDS/UNIDO
networks
3.2
3.2
3.3
3.4
Creation of raw material purchase network
NIFT
Initiating the process for Chanderi Foundation UNIDO
for social issues like health environment and
education
Empowering private sector for better UNIDO
management of local resources/ exposure visits
Strengthening and optimizing the use of local UNIDO
resource centre
65
Commissioner
handloom
and
handicrafts MP
Commissioner
handloom
and
handicrafts MP
Commissioner
handloom
handicrafts
UNIDO
Commissioner
handloom
handicrafts MP
Commissioner
handloom
handicrafts
/Different BDS/
Commissioner
handloom
handicrafts
MP/UNIDO
Commissioner
handloom
handicrafts
UNIDO
and
MP/
and
and
MP
and
and
MP/
Annexure A
Poverty Mapping
Composition of the labour force and relationships within the value chain
Social caste and religious groups determine a certain composition of the labour
force. In Chanderi, the roots of poverty are to be found in social power structures and
this is reflected within the value chain:
- The rich, Jain and Maheshwar traders, control raw material supply and channels
to market the products. Whilst they are dependent to some extent on the weavers
for the trade, they enjoy a secure position since they have alternative sources of
income outside Chanderi.
- The moderately wealthy master weavers supervise the production on their looms
and also market the products. They are completely independent since not only do
they purchase raw materials themselves and market the product, but they are in
a position to do the weaving as well.
The above two groups have almost all the power and authority. They receive very good
returns from the saree trade, and indeed it is estimated that they can make up to 200% profit
on certain sarees.
-
The moderately poor, small independent weavers are in a similar position but at a
much lower level. Although their returns are moderate it is good to keep in mind
that poverty is not only defined in this context as a condition, but also as a
process. These households could become poorer overnight if market conditions
change dramatically.
-
The poorest, the simple weavers, are small producers, theoretically independent,
and who most of the time posses their own tools. For this reason, they are not
thought of as salaried workers. However, they are completely dependent upon
middlemen, not only for wages and for access to the market, but also for the
supply of raw materials and credit.
Among weavers, there is an additional stratification depending on their skill and the
type of saree they produce (high level, middle level and ordinary sarees) that is
reflected in the wages they earn. Key informants perceive Kolis as the most
vulnerable of all.
The majority of weavers are in debt from their middleman because their solvability
does not allow them to borrow from formal channels.
Since there is a lack of viable social safety nets, which can provide the poor with a
period of recuperation when facing difficulties (illness, death of a member of the
family), weavers are by far the most vulnerable group.
They are therefore completely dependent on middlemen for access to productive
resources (income and credit) and have poor or no access at all to public services
such as social security, education and healthcare.
It should be pointed out that there is no interest charged on loans given by
middlemen, but that there is some degree of captivity attached to this type of loan
(such as the weavers choice with regard to accepting other orders, or their obligation
to undertake jobs on a subcontracting basis with their creditor). In these cases, their
wages can be lower than in a normal situation. Exploitation does therefore exist, but
the weavers themselves often veil it, since they do not have any alternative.
There is no real opportunity to upgrading their labour skills or the quality of their
products. The greatest difficulty lies in the fact that they have difficulty accessing
information and often, even if the required information is made available, they feel
unable to make the most of interesting opportunities. This belief is reinforced by the
fact that, in the past, new opportunities have mainly benefited affluent households.
•
Conditions of work
Although the weavers’ living conditions have improved, those that were poor have remained poor. On the other hand Maheshwars and Jains
have profited and have become much richer than twenty years ago.
If the standard of housing is taken as an indication of the living conditions of the
weavers from one household to the other the standard varies a great deal, and it was
easy to distinguish poor households from affluent ones. Trader’s houses were of the
highest standard whilst master weavers’ habitat was good too, but of a simpler
nature. This contrasted with the weaver’s households.
Among the 7 looms visited, the one that seemed best belonged to a Muslim family.
The construction was in cement, the loom had its own room and Dobby and
Jacquard attachments, light was abundant, and there was a TV and radio. The
couple looked well nourished, the woman was wearing clothes that looked expensive
and gold jewellery. The children were attending “English school”, which demonstrate
a certain social standing.
Very poor looms belonged to both Kolis and Ansarees communities. The handloom, kitchen and living area were in the same room, and
there was only one light bulb in the living space, just above the loom. This poor light supply lets us suppose that weaving in winter or in the
evening must have negative consequences for the weavers’ eyesight. The loom did not have Dobby or Jacquard machines.
The living/working space was cramped by tools and the whole family was gathered there (father, mother, children and grandmother). The
hygiene conditions were questionable.
Walls were made with mud and roofs with branches. Utensils looked old, and in most cases some of the children, especially girls, were not
attending school.
•
Type of employment and income
Formally, weavers are independent craftsmen. In reality however, they are bound to
their respective master weavers or traders. They work from home on a
subcontracting basis and are paid per saree produced.
Wages for weavers varies from 50 to 100 Rs per day, depending on the amount of
work done, their capacity to adopt new designs/technology and especially their skills.
It should be pointed out that wages have not changed for 10 years and that since
most of the weavers are in debt, once they pay their monthly share of the loan, the
income at their disposal is much lower.
Apparently, Ansaree weavers earn more because they generally work more, are
more disciplined and invest what they earn, however meagre this may be, to buy
inputs for their loom. They are the main subcontractor for Government orders, such
as MPHSVN. But it is evident that only the extremely skilled weavers can hope to
accumulate enough capital to become independent weavers.
No regulations have ever been imposed on the middlemen, and weavers have never
united to defend their interests and obtain better wages.
•
Composition of the labour force and relationships within the family
There are not many distinct types of firms with a group of individuals working in
them. Most of the weavers are small entrepreneurs working in household units
where only family labour is involved
It is difficult to know how the social organisation is structured within the household,
such as the division of labour, the roles among generations and sexes, or how
different members experience poverty.
Generally, the men and women weave, older members help with related activities
(such as warping, winding), and children also participate in the weaving.
According to the autobiography of R.N. Mishra, a Brahman of Chanderi, most of the
weaving was mainly done by women prior to 1940, especially among Ansarees
(Sharma, p. 75, ibid). It has been impossible to find out exactly what is the
contribution made by women to weaving today, but it can be confirmed that it is
important.
Women weave on another loom, or make shifts with their husband, after taking care
of the household chores. An estimation of 25 % of the production has been given to
us, but this seems low in comparison to the number of women seen working on the
looms.
In any case, it is certainly true that their contribution has diminished since the 1940s.
The reason for this shift is that once production started to diversify, manufacturers
were required to leave households in order to inform themselves and for market
related activities. Since women’s mobility has always been restricted in Chanderi, it
was the men who learnt the new demands and skills.
Women today from the weaver community are still mainly confined to the house.
They hardly go out or participate in any outdoor activity related to the weaving. They
generally have lower literacy levels, or are illiterate. They have no opportunities for
capacity building.
Very few Muslim women have been seen outside their homes and I was told that
women hardly contribute to decision-making within the household.
Women weavers do not have any social or economic status. When people talk
about “weavers” they refer to men, and male weavers are the wage earners.
As far as the children are concerned, poor households generally hold large families
(average of 5 children). Boys and girls work within the household, either helping
around home in weaving or, in the worst cases, in bidi making to complement the
family’s income.
Many girls were seen handling household tasks when visiting the looms. When their
fathers were asked why they were not in school, illness and family problems were
given as a reason. Some of the boys were not going to school, but they generally
were older (teenagers).
Annexure B
List of Cooperative Societies
S.No.
Name of Cooperative
Official Address
Society
1.
2.
The Weavers Cooperative
Textile Bhavan, Marya, Chanderi, Chanderi,
Society
District – Guna
Shilpi Weaver Cooperative
Marya, Tapa Bavdi, Tapa Bavdi, Chanderi
Society
3.
Hastkala Weaver
Marya, outside city, Old Bus Stand, Chanderi
Cooperative Society
4.
Harijan Mahila Weaver
Marya, Pasiya Pura, Chanderi
Cooperative Society
5.
Ekta Weavers Cooperative Dudua Mohalla, Marya, Weavers Colony, Chanderi
Society
6.
Durlub Weavers
Marya, Chowk Mohalla, Nayapura, Chanderi
Cooperative Society
7.
Handloom Weavers
Marya, Nayapura, Chanderi
Cooperative Society
8.
Kalyan Weavers
Marya, Pranpur, Outside city, Chanderi
Cooperative Society
9.
Bharat Weavers
Marya, Gandhi Nagar, Outside city, Chanderi
Cooperative Society
10.
New Weavers Cooperative Marya, Mehbub Nagar, Outside city, Chanderi
Society
Annexure C
Consumption of raw material used in Chanderi Handloom cluster –
by type and quantity.
Serial no Raw material
1.
Annual consumption
2o/22 denier
Daily consumption
13500 kgs
2.
16/18 katan
12000kgs
43kgs
3.
2/120 mercerised yarn 12900kgs
43 kgs
4.
100s cotton yarn 3300kgs
5.
zari tested
11kgs
13500 kgs
11 kgs
45kgs
Annexure D
The dyeing process in Chanderi handloom cluster
•
•
•
•
Dyeing forms the backbone of any fabric be it preloom dyeing or post loom.
The importance of this activity in any weaving process cannot be over
emphasiesd.
Chanderi fabric has long been reputed for strong and fast colors. However of late
the product has been chastised for shoddy and running colors.
The dyeing process which was observed at the resource center was as follows:
The process
1. Water is heated at 40 degrees.
2. A hank of yarn is soaked for about 4-5 minutes.
3. The hank of 20/22 denier is, for 12 sarees and is not degummed as degumming
would take away the basic crispness of the Chanderi fabric. This however
reduces the degree of color penetration.
4. The dye is prepared in a separate utensil.
5. amount of dye to be used (say 50 gms in this case) is measured by hand.
6. The dyes in use vary from good quality dyes to the local ones.
7. The hank is soaked in the dye for 3-4 minutes.
8. Ascetic acid is added to the container containing the dye and the hank is kept in
this solution for almost 20 minutes.
9. The hank is then delicately squeezed with the help of wooden rods and dried.
10. The dyeing process takes about 45 minutes.
11. The normal charges are Rs. 4o/- per hank of12 sarees.
12. This process enables colors, which are fast to 40 degrees.
The limitations
1. The utensils in use are not always steel or copper which allows better
temperature control.
2. The temperature is approximately measured by hand. As there is no thermometer
in use or a stove with temperature control. The quantity of color, the time for
which the hank is soaked, all these factors lend an element of variation in dyeing.
This particularly has an adverse bearing when more then one hank has to be
dyed in the same color.
3. The dyers sometimes tend to reduce the dyeing time without realizing its impact
on the quality and sometimes use local and cheap dyes to reduce their costs,
without realizing its implication on the demand for their product.
The solutions
•
•
•
•
An awareness campaign on the correct dyeing methods and the education of
the weaver and the dyer on the importance of fast and colors
The easy availability of good quality dyes and the accessibility of the dyer to
these
The introduction of steel utensils wherever required
The introduction of stoves or heating equipment with temperature control
Costing:
The cost of dyeing a 20/22 denier silk yarn hank for 12 sarees is as below:
fuel / wood ------ Rs 10/
dye/ color ------- Rs 1o/
acid
------- Rs 10/
total
------ Rs 40/
Annexure E
Production/process map of Chanderi Cluster
Raw material suppliers
outside the cluster
Grey yarn
Coloured/grey yarn
Raw material Suppliers
within the cluster
Bleaching and dying units
Traders
Coloured/grey yarn
Grey yarn
Master Weavers
Grey yarn
Coloured yarn
/ dyes
Coloured yarn
Small independent Weavers
Resource Centre
Dyes
Weavers
Sarees/ fabric
Design /copy
Machine preparation
Other subcontractors
for pre-weaving process
Indirect exports
Foreign buyers
National buyers/
Gov agencies
Further value
addition outside
the cluster: 10-15 %
Cooperative Societies/
Gov. coporations:10-30%
Government
agencies: 10 %
Traders /
M-weavers: 60-90%
Finished product: 85-90 %
Annexure F
Value addition outside the Chanderi Cluster
Cooperative Societies/
Gov. corporations/
Small independent weavers: 10-30%
Traders/Master Weavers: 60-90%
100 % of the production
Further value additional outside the cluster: 10-15 % of production
(90 % of the Fabric and 15 % of the Saree produced)
Printing Units
Packed finished product: 85-90% of production
85 % of the Saree produced and 10 % of the Fabric produced
Printing Units
Garmenting Units
Value added Sarees
(cutting, machining, and trimming)
Value added Sarees
Furnishing & Garment
Indirect Exporters/foreign buyers
National buyers/Government Age
Annex G
Reality Tree
The main issues studied through the reality tree are as under
(i)
Poor institutional base
There is only one development institution in the cluster with its limited capability for
the capacity building of the cluster actors. As a result most to the interventions done
by the technical institutions are of adhoc nature. The organic flow of technical
knowledge is not exiting in the cluster. The cluster actors are also not very sure about
who can do what.
(ii)
Dyeing issues
There is a problem of colour run with the fabric produced in the cluster. The special
problem of silk related dying is on account of degumming. The Chanderi fabric
derives its distinctiveness from the material gums to retain which dying cannot be
done at high temperatures. The cotton yarn is produced and procured from South
India.
(iii)
Alienation of weavers from the market
Most of the weaving done by weavers is done without the knowledge and feedback
from the market. As a result, there are limited possibilities of product diversification
and consumer preferences.
(iv)
Lack of social Capital
The process of social capital building in the cluster is very low as result the working
of cooperative societies or formation of any marketing network remained limited. The
role of government agencies has gradually declined in marketing as a result of which
most of the weavers are heavily dependent on the efforts of the master weavers in
the marketing of their product. There is no conscious effort for design development
as such and only some minor changes in the existing motifs are made. Diversification
into other types of products besides sarees is altogether absent.
(v)
Competition from powerloom
Gradually the exclusive nature of the Chanderi fabric is declining. It has become
easier for the powerloom sector to copy some of the Chanderi products like plain run
of fabric. There is need therefore to make a strategy to highlight the USPs of
Chanderi products through trademark and branding.
39
CHANDERI REALITY TREE
Absence/ poor
linkage with technical
institutions
Lack of repeat orders
Poor pre-weaving processing, e.g.
dyeing; shrinkage, marking, etc
Quality problem
Poor
Unsold Stocks
Adhoc design
development
Institutional
Limited fashion
knowledge
Poor social
capital
Monopoly of master
weavers on trade
Master weavers
utilizes traditional
marketing channels
Scenario of
limited growth
Poor sales
No direct linkage
with exporters
/boutiques
Lack of Unique
Selling proposition
Competition
from powerloom
Seasonal
demand of
product
No efforts for
brand/trade
trademark
Lack of awareness of
real Chanderi product
No product
diversification
40
Limited consumer
segment
CHANDERI CLUSTER MAP BEFORE INTERV
Annexure-H
Raw material
Silk – Bangalore
Zari- Surat
Cotton- Coimbatore
WEAVERS
Total Looms - 4000
Working Looms – 3650
Textile Tr
Institute fo
training &
certificatio
Sarees
Big Master Weavers-12
Small Master Weavers-44
Cooperative
Societies-10
Loom
Suppliers
National Market
• Traders - 90%
• DC-Handlooms, DC
Handicrafts,
Commissioner Handloo
MP Government -10%
Suppo
Finan
1
CHANDERI CLUSTER MAP AFTER
Raw material
Silk – Bangalore
Zari- Surat
Cotton- Coimbatore
WEAVERS
Total Looms - 4000
Working Looms –
3650
Textile Training
Resource
Centre
Institute
forLocal
governed by
training &
Advisory
certification
Committee
of of
Sareesactors
Cluster
Big Master Weavers-12
Small Master WeaversE-Commerce
Cooperative
Societies-10
Loom
Suppliers
Business
Developme
nt Service
(BDS)
Gov
National Market
• Traders - 90%
• DC-Handlooms, DC
Handicrafts,
Commissioner
Handlooms MP
G
10%
Support Institutions
Financial: NCDC
International Market
• 30% (Home Furnishing &
Other products), 50% (Sarees)
& 20% (Dress materials)
2
Support Institutions
Technical: NID, NIFT
Financial: SIDBI, NA