Summer 2013 - ONAWAY in Portugal and South

Transcription

Summer 2013 - ONAWAY in Portugal and South West Spain.
Introduction.
For our third extended sailing season and after spending the winter at Marina Parque
das Nacoes, Lisbon, my wife Judith and I sailed south to Cadiz. Our boat, ONAWAY, is
an 11.6m, 1999 Bavaria 38 (draft 1.6m). Cadiz is only a "stone's throw" from entry into
the Mediterranean but we are not ready for that yet, so by choice we retraced our
steps back to Portugal, where we are currently wintering this year at Marina de Lagos.
We were not in a hurry and want to enjoy the Portuguese Algarve and the Atlantic
coast of Andalucía. The plan this year was to spend a little more time sightseeing in
Lisbon then head south, exploring the coast to the south of Cabo Espichel then on to
the Algarve and Andalucía. Lagos has long been a favourite location of ours and we l
have always wanted to enjoy a winter break in the area. It is also not that far from
Gibraltar as our intention would be to leave a little later in spring 2014 and make our
way into the Mediterranean after 3 years cruising down from our home in Plymouth.
Sunset Ria Formosa, Portugal.
This log is part 3 of our trip from the UK and previous years can be found on the CA
website. I have tried to capture aspects I would like to have known when cruise
planning and I do hope that others may find the detail informative and helpful.
2011 - ONAWAY in western France - http://www.cruising.org.uk/node/16037
2012 - ONAWAY in North Spain and Portugal http://www.cruising.org.uk/node/19414
During my planning phase I was able to use the Internet to identify web sites for many
of the marina’s we were going to visit and establish some idea of costs along the way.
Most of the websites include visitor rates, with a little delving but I have also
included our own costs for 11.6m. The exchange rate at the time was 1.16 euro’s to the
Pound and all costs quoted are in euro’s.
We enjoyed fitting out in Lisbon but be aware that facilities like chandlers, are more
difficult to find than you would be used too in the UK or France. The weather however
makes up for this and we were ready to go in March much earlier than normal.
Our experience was that prices across this whole area are inexpensive from April
through to June. After that there is a price hike, particularly noticeable on the Algarve
during the summer months. In the early part of the year prices were generally less
than 20E per night but for example on 1st June the price in Vilamoura rises to 55E+
then again to 60E+ during July and August. In Andalucía the high season rates are more
modest at around 32E for a 12m berth and plenty of availability. Throughout, there are
anchorages for passage making and for longer extend periods. For example during July
and August it is not unusual to find 50 boats or more at anchor off Culatra in Ria
Formosa.
The first part of the cruise from Lisbon to Cabo San Vincente is an exposed passage
with the ever present west coast swell and potentially strong northerly winds as the
summer progresses. Careful passage planning is advised to transit this area safely.
Once the Algarve is reached the weather is warmer and seas more benign the further
you progress east. The feature that surprised us most was the easterly "Levanter" that
blows out of the Straits and can last for days and even weeks hindering progress. Its
impact can be felt as far away as Faro over 100nm to the west.
Weather forecasts in Portugal and Spain are abundant both online and via VHF
in English on reaching Spain. Navtex provides good detail on conditions
along the coast. I’ve included the weather sources we used but unlike France where
Internet access is widely available at marinas, in Spain and Portugal reception is very
mixed so investing in a local 3G device proved a good choice for us.
Portugal is renowned for its bureaucracy and in particular the safety gear required by
cruising yachts on extended stays in the country. Attached is detail on those
requirements.
http://www.lagosnavigators.net/html/bureaucracy.html
Our experience was that we had no issues in this respect other than on the Algarve
where you will meet lots of examples of boarding's. Whilst there is a case to be made
that visiting yachts need not comply, many of the requirements are sensible safety
precautions that we should all adhere too. Experience shows that courtesy seems to be
the best approach should you be unlucky enough to be boarded.
I know that it is possible to transit the area covered in the last 3 seasons in a very
short period of time, after all we have watched the ARC Portugal depart Mayflower
Marina, Plymouth with a 3 week "ETA" in Lagos for many years. We chose not to do this
but decided to take our time and visit the exciting places along the way. It has been a
most enjoyable 3 year cruise and now that we have finally made it to warmer climates,
we are both ready for the next phase and exploration in the Med. We have experienced
a great deal in the last 3 years and there is so much to see and do on the voyage south.
With a shorthanded crew we have managed to achieve this without a single overnight
passage and our longest leg was from Falmouth to L'Aber Vrach at 110nm. Remarkable
really, so do come and join us.
Lisbon.
Lisbon and the River Tagus reaches from Cabo de Roca to the north (the most westerly
promotry in mainland Europe) to Cabo de Espichel in the south. Most significant are the
high mountain ranges to the north and Sintra, which cascade down to the sea at Cabo
de Roca. The mountains of Sintra were the summer home of the Portuguese monarchy
and the whole is a designated Unesco World Heritage site. This is a must visit and can
easily be reached by bus from Cascais. The cooler summer temperatures of these
mountains also create very strong winds around Cabo de Roca and the same effect is
found to the south of Cabo Espichel, although the mountains are not as high. Both are
particularly bad with the Nortada in full afternoon "blast".
To say that we enjoyed our stay in Lisbon would be something of an understatement.
We loved the place, especially the waterfront nature of the city and arriving by our
own boat seemed to capture the spirit of the Portuguese capital. Lisbon is ancient and
its strategic location has made it an important trading centre. Evidence of this history
is everywhere and there are scores of museums around. I enjoyed the Maritime
museum at Belem and the Lisboa Story in the city, which really put Portuguese history
and Lisbon into perspective for me. At Belem. close to Henry the Navigators monument
they have created a "Mural", Padrao dos Descobrimentos, depicting a map of the world
during the 17th and 18th centuries. This displays the extent of the Portuguese
discoveries, staggering for such a small nation.
In-bound, having passed through the city you eventually arrive at Nations Park (Parque
das Nacoes). This is the EXPO 98 site and has been re-claimed from the old GALP
petrochemical works. Today it is the modern business centre of Lisbon but with
residential and recreational areas spread across a large area. It is dominated by the
15km long Vasco de Gama suspension bridge and it is possible to cruise well beyond the
bridge but not many visitors tend to do this. The attached provides details for
passages above the Vasco de Gama bridge.
http://www.upriverpilot.com/id342.htm
If you want to do this, call in at Marina Parque das Nacoes first and ask in the office or
any of the locals you will find there. They are a really friendly bunch and I know they
would be delighted to provide advice.
Marina Parque das Nacoes.
On Saturday 6th April it was with regret we left our friends at this marina and they
gave us a big wave as we passed through the lock gates on our departure.
http://www.marinaparquedasnacoes.pt/en
Costs for 6 month contract - 1980E. through to end February 2013 inc water and
electricity. 330E / month in March.
Trip down the River Tagus.
After a month preparing the boat for the coming summer and some sightseeing we
finally departed. This was a little later in the year than we had hoped due to unsettled
weather. Our first short "hop" was down river to Cascais, where we wanted to spend a
few weeks before heading south. The trip down the River Tagus is interesting so I've
tried to capture some of what is on offer and will see as you travel by boat.
Parque das Nacoes (Nations Park) & the 15km long Vasco de Gama bridge.
Departing the marina just after HW, leaving the modern buildings of Parque das Nacoes
and the Vasco de Gama bridge behind, you move quickly on the ebbing tide.
Cruise liner dock and Alfama district.
Santa Apolonia, the home of the cruise liner dock and the Alfama district behind it,
soon come up and then its Lisbon city centre and Praca do Commercial, the historical
gateway into the city for generations. The Lisboa Story describes this square as a vast
trading centre with merchants bringing produce from Indian and African contents,
Mediterranean countries as far afield as Greece and of course all of northern Europe.
Lions, tigers, rhinoceros, elephants and a multitude of other animals on display and for
sale. One has to be a little imaginative however as this square is not original. It was rebuilt around 1755 following a catastrophic earthquake that destroyed much of the
ancient city and created a tsunami felt as far away as Morocco
Praca de Commercial, the centre of Portuguese trade during the 17th and 18th
centuries. Rebuilt around 1755.
Alcantara. Tall ships in town.
Ponte 25th de Abril (the suspension bridge aka Golden Gate) and the Christ memorial
(aka Rio de Janerio) on the south bank are now clearly visible as you pass by marina
Alcantara and the container port where the Tall Ships moor up. As you close on the
bridge the "buzzing" sound of cars passing over head on the steel tracks of the road
crossing can be heard. Most unusual.
Pont 25th de Abril and the Christ memorial - look familiar ?
Under the bridge and next is Henry the Navigators memorial behind which you will see
the wonderful building that contains the Monastery de Jerominos and close by the
incredible Portuguese Maritime Museum. Close by the monastery you will find Cafe
Pasteis de Belem, a must visit for the "pastel de nata", small round filo like cakes with
custard cream. These little cakes are everywhere in Portugal but these are the
originals created by the monks to a secret recipe. You can watch them baking
thousands of them and eat your own, warm and fresh from the oven, sprinkled with
cinnamon and powdered sugar. The cafe is a delight and tradition dictates 2 cakes per
person. Don't be put off by the queues in the front area of the cafe, push though and a
much larger area, decorated in the Portuguese style and with waiter service, is just
beyond.
A little further and you reach Tor de Belem, the ancient tower that has protected the
river entrance from invading ships for hundreds of years.
Henry the Navigator memorial and Monastery de Jerominos in background.
Tor de Belem.
The river begins to widen now as you pass by SOPROMARs boatyard at Alges and the
leaning, VTS port control tower. Watch out for the fisherman in the next reach, fishing
using the techniques of old, as they net the river.
Well down stream and approaching Oeiras marina, Fort de Sao Juliao and the lighthouse
of Fort Bugio mark the main channel ahead. Passing the marina you need to keep close
inshore and head out of the main shipping channel and through the short cut that leads
inside the banks and across Carcevelos beach. You will surely get a "pasting" here if
there is any swell or wind over tide around as you ride the ebb tide into these narrows.
Out at sea now and a straight run past Estoril and on to Cascais Bay before you arrive
at the anchorage or choose to go into the marina. High above you and a little distant
are the Sintra mountains probably shrouded in cloud this early in the year. If it is a
clear day you may see the sun reflecting off the Palace de Pena or even the Moorish
castle perched high on the mountain tops.
Cascais.
Cascais is another favourite of ours and we wanted to spend a few weeks here before
heading south.
Cascais marina visitor basin. Near HW, SW F5 with 3m swell. ONAWAY in foreground.
The town is not too touristy and it is well connected for Lisbon. We were not
disappointed by the weather and the sun shone for most of our stay. There were a few
days when conditions deteriorated however and as can be seen from the picture the
visitor basin is exposed to westerly weather. Once the initial shock of these breaking
waves was overcome, we soon settled down and were not concerned as this wall is large
and wide with a roadway running down its centre. These waves would break on the wall
and "fizz" down its length as they ran down the marina walls.
There is so much to see and do in Cascais. We loved to ride our bikes out to the west,
5km along the coast to the wonderful beach at Guincho. A great setting beneath Cabo
de Roca and a regular location for surfing events. Then to the east the coastal footpath
or cycle way down to Estoril. Both with ample places to stop for coffee or lunch and
take in the views.
The town has a good selection of shops and restaurants to suit any taste. The Jumbo
supermarket is large and a good walk into town. Further afield, if you catch the bus
there is a large shopping complex, "Cascais shopping", 20 minutes away. Should you
decide to take the train into Lisbon, this is a delight too, as it passes right along the
waterfront up to Cais do Sodre. If you get off at Belem you will find 2 of the best
chandlers in Lisbon. DND Nautica and Lisnautica. Check out the location first on their
websites.
Palace de Pena, Sintra. A must visit.
Close by the marina you will find a large park, full of interest and the "screeching" you
will hear on the marina comes from peacocks parading on the grass. In this area you will
also find museums, some of which are free. Museau do Mar (sea museum) created by
Rei D.Carlos , Condes Castro de Guimaraes, the Santa Maria house and Cascais' iconic
pale blue and white lighthouse (Farol de Santa Maria) which overlooks the marina are all
worth a visit.
Finally no trip to Cascais would be complete without a visit to Sintra, the Unesco World
Heritage site high in the mountains.. The village is interesting and full of museums but
we enjoyed the walk up through the forest to the Moorish castle and Palace de Pena
that overlook the site.
Cascais marina itself has mixed reviews but in our view it is a very good marina with
excellent facilities. The marina team are very professional and the office resembles a
hotel foyer. The prices are no more expensive than cruising back home in the Channel
or France and you don't get a bottle of wine presented in any of those locations, as you
do in Cascais. There is also the option of the anchorage which is sheltered from most
directions.
Access is straight forward and the arrivals pontoon is obvious to starboard on entering.
The marina office is up the ramp and directly in front of you. There are some very big
yachts here and lots of interesting comings and goings. As you would expect there are a
number of cafes, restaurants and shops on the marina, along with marine related
businesses, some selling chandlery items.
http://mymarinacascais.com/?lang=en
Cost – Marina – April 22E/night. High season 1st May 44E/night. No CA discounts.
Free WIFI at marina. Diesel from filling station on pontoon to starboard on entering
marina at near end of reception pontoon
Thoughts on the passage from Lisbon to the Algarve.
This passage of over 100nm is the last leg before reaching the less turbulent waters of
the Algarve, leaving behind the ever present swell that exists on these west facing
coasts and Biscay, all the way from La Rochelle. When planning this leg the swell should
be considered at all times. This is a very exposed stretch of coast indeed with few
possibilities to escape deteriorating weather, particularly south of Sines.
Locals we met in Lisbon regularly use this route to migrate south for their summer
holidays returning the same season. Sound advice from them suggests passing Espichel
and San Vincente during the morning before the strong afternoon winds begin.
The "milk run" for them is an early departure from Lisbon and 50nm to Sines. Then a
very, very early start from Sines to cover the 55nm to San Vincente to arrive before
the afternoon winds begin. It is then 20nm or so up to Lagos or Portimao, their most
popular destinations.
Alternatively, covering the whole distance with an overnight passage from Lisbon
arriving at San Vincente in the early hours around first light. This is a good plan
meaning that the daylight hours would be used to reach a point beyond Sines and the
hours of darkness south of this point. This is significant as the large ship traffic is
high around the entrance to the Tagus and off Sines, which is an enormous oil refinery.
Most importantly the "fishing pot population" is not significant on the less populated
coast south of Sines.
Logically therefore, to support the avoidance of strong afternoon winds, a departure
early in the season is also the most desirable before the heat of the summer
compounds matters and the NW winds settle in.
If travelling north up the coast early in the year is also the desirable strategy and
providing you are prepared to motor sail, entirely feasible. On our trip south from Sines
in April we met more boats heading north than going south. Once the leg north from
San Vincente to Sines is completed and providing you have plenty of time, the journey
north can be broken down into series of short passages of around 30nm, all the way to
La Corunna. With an early morning start the 30nm can be covered, with an arrival
before the strong afternoon head winds set in.
Leaving Cascais.
Our plan had been to leave Cascais in mid-April and cruise the area to the south of
Espichel where the coast is made up of the Arrabida National Park, The River Sado
Estuary, famous as the home of a large pod of very friendly dolphins (much studied and
written about locally) and then the extensive beaches of the Troia peninsula. This would
also include the towns of Sesimbra and Setubal.
I believe this to be a worthwhile addition to any cruise south but in our case the
weather outlook did not support our opportunity and we eventually pressed on directly
to Sines with a deteriorating forecast, rounding Espichel.
As I had done some research into the area however it seemed logical to include this in
the article.
Sesimbra.
Sesimbra is the first port of call when rounding Cabo Espichel and has a reputation
for being windy in the afternoon breeze. This is not surprising given the high ground
around as you can see in the picture.
The harbour at Sesimbra with the marina in the far right hand corner. The anchorage
is to the left just out of picture.
Mooring options – Marina is located at the western end of the harbour, right at the top
in this picture. The first 3 pontoons you can see behind the breakwater are the fishing
harbour. The marina is relatively small and congested. It is managed by the local Yacht
Club and when I e-mailed ahead in April they were friendly and accommodating. Not
sure what this would be like during the summer months but would recommend enquiring
before arrival. There is a good restaurant on site but it is a long walk into Sesimbra
town.
There is an anchorage to the left of this picture, just out of picture I'm afraid. This is
off the main beach, close to the town which may be a more convenient option.
www.naval-sesimbra.pt
Cost – Marina – April, 10.70/night. Note check website for seasonal prices.
Diesel from fishing harbour close by.
Porthino de Arrabida.
The coastline that stretches from Sesimbra towards the entrance to the Sado Estuary
and Setubal is not often visited by yachtsman cruising south. This is in fact an
interesting cruising area for those with time. From Sesimbra towards the Sado Estuary
the coastline is mountainous and forms the Arrabida National Park, a recreational area
with lovely walks, coves and beaches. The views are spectacular to the south over the
white sand beaches of the Troia peninsula. At sea there is a much documented pod of
dolphins and you will almost certainly see these when cruising the area.
Anchorage off the beach at Porthino de Arrabida in the foreground and in front of the
island.
Portinho just to the west of the anchorage.
Tucked away close to the entrance of the River Sado is the anchorage of Arrabida and
the village of Portinho. This anchorage is reputedly one of the nicest in Portugal and
can be seen off the beach in the picture. Portinho is just to the west of the anchorage,
beneath the trees pictured and marks the access to this spot, inside the sand banks of
the estuary.
Troia marina and Rio Sado.
The entrance to the Sado estuary is wide and well marked. A fair tide is best for
access and the entrance can become dangerous with wind over tide conditions. The
picture above taken over the anchorage at Arrabida shows the river entrance and Troia
Penninsula beyond. Setubal within the estuary is a busy commercial port and a close look
out should be made for large ships coming and going.
Troia marina and resort are immediately to starboard on entering the river. This is very
much a resort complex but the surrounding beaches are undeniably beautiful. It also
has good access to Setubal via the ferry across the Rio Sado.
http://www.troiaresort.pt/en/marina/
CA discounts are now available at Troia and the marina team are very friendly.
The attached provides more detail on the River and beyond.
Our passage south from Cascais to Sines.
On Wed 24th April we left Cascais with the intention of visiting the area described
above but the longer term forecast was dubious. On reaching Espichel I was able to get
on-line using the 3G WIFI hub and Nexus Tablet to check the medium range weather
forecast (amazing no wires). How far weather forecasting onboard has come in our 25
years and more cruising, maybe we don't need the BBC "shipping forecast" anymore but
how sad to see this "icon" disappear completely. Anyway, our forecast looked to be
deteriorating so we decided to press on and left this interesting area for another trip.
Once clear of Cabo Espichel the course steered pulls away from the coast and the "pot
life" reduces significantly. It is a clear run south down to Sines.
Sines.
Sines is famous as the birth place of Vasco de Gama and his statue stands proudly close
to the castle, looking out over the western horizon.
Sines bay indicating the anchorage and marina in the centre of the picture. Beyond that
is the outer harbour and petrochemical port
Sines is a large commercial harbour and petrochemical terminal. Caution is required
for this reason and when approaching from the north the outer breakwater has become
submerged. It is essential to identify a large red buoy marking the end of this northern
breakwater and the outer end of the submerged part. It is a very busy commercial port
with many very large ships anchored offshore. Take care on entering the outer harbour
as tugs regularly use the area.
Mooring options. The inner harbour has fishing port to north, marina to south. Between
the two is an anchorage, off a white sand beach. Exposed from south.
Marina note - The suggestion is that you arrive at the diesel pontoon to the landward
side of the marina, big sign. This would be difficult in strong northerly wind. On
approaching this pontoon the marina is to starboard, much better option to arrive here,
turning up wind. Short walk to the big yellow building which contains the reception area
upstairs.
http://www.portodesines.pt/pls/portal/go
Costs - April 2013, 12m berth - 12E /night, 86E / week. The people are very friendly,
showers clean and hot, washing machine and drier (3.87E each). Free WIFI now
available throughout the marina, code allocated on arrival. Chandlers on site, cafe bar
at marina or beach bar a short walk away.
A good walk into town, head up the roadway that leads to the castle on the hill. Very
Portuguese, cafes, restaurants, small supermarkets in town. There is a Lidel,
InterMarche and Pingo Doce further out of town ask for directions in the office.
Bus connections to Lagos and Setubal.
Our passage south from Sines to Lagos.
This is a long trip with the first 55nm to Cabo de San Vincente exposed to the wind and
swell with no safe ports to take refuge should conditions deteriorate. Beyond San
Vincente it should be a relatively straight forward 20nm to Lagos with offshore winds
and no swell. All the advise is that every effort should be made to round San Vincente
before the afternoon" Nortada" takes hold, particularly during the summer months. To
support this and should the wind be blowing hard, advice from the locals in Lisbon
suggested that keeping well offshore would be best but not so far as to be out in the
very busy shipping lanes in these parts.
With this in mind we had planned the passage for the end of April, early May and left
on Wednesday 1st May after a week stormbound in Sines. Whilst we would like to have
sailed south, for this leg we were content with our forecast. Light winds and a 1.5m
northerly swell had us motor sailing comfortably at over 6 knots. A departure at 0400
meant leaving Sines in the dark, which is fine with due regard for the 24hr working of
the port and shipping movements. The AIS, chart plotter overlay proved a fantastic
aid, both leaving the port and passing through the 20 or so ships anchored offshore. As
we left there were lights everywhere, as this must be a busy time in the port.
Approaching the outer harbour entrance a very bright white light sat right in the
middle. This turned out to be a tug with a large tanker inbound and leaving him to
starboard, same side as us. The AIS soon picked up the lot and we steered clear
without difficulty. It occurred to me a few minutes later that monitoring the port
control channel would have had us better prepared. This is available on the website.
By 0600, the sun came up and we had better visibility, our course took us well offshore,
so the number of lobster pots was much less, probably supporting the lack of harbours
ashore. The rest of the trip was an un-eventful "plod" with the occasional southbound
yacht and an equal number of northbound yachts for company.
As we made our way south the Monchique mountains at the back of Portimao finally
appeared and we were pleased to arrive off San Vincente at 1400 in a flat calm and
light northerly winds. It seems to take ages to round the Cape, from initially identifying
the headland and then once abeam another 4nm to clear Punta de Sagres. It is in this
area that the "Nortada" catches the un-wary, so I had reduced sail accordingly. No
need on this occasion and as we headed out passed Sagres town, all sails were un-furled
and we had a lovely sail to Lagos, our first experience of the Algarve.
Interestingly as we rounded the Cape there were 6 or so boats headed north more than
heading south, clearly the time of year for this passage in light northerly winds and
swell.
Cabo de San Vincente.
It was a great relief to round this headland and there was a sense of achievement. The
passage from here to the Straits of Gibraltar and on to the Med is relatively
straightforward, compared to the trip down the west coast of Portugal and northern
Spain (not with standing the Straits passage of course).
We had made the mistake of visiting the Cape by land and discovered that this is a very
windswept place with little or no vegetation. The sea cliffs are enormous and from
above the swell crashes ashore un-interrupted from the deep Atlantic.
Cabo de San Vincente with IDEC2 sailing past these enormous sea cliffs.
On a later visit we were fortunate enough to notice IDEC 2 , Francis Joyen's recording
breaking trimaran sail bye. This "tri" is big at 30m long and the mast reaches 32m
above the deck. This goes some way to giving perspective to the size of Cabo de San
Vincente in the picture.
From the seaward side these cliffs did not look at all significant but having seen the
Cape form ashore, there are "massive" forces at play here and I would recommend
every caution when passage planning in these parts.
I have to say that this was a momentous occasion for us and something we had planned
for many, many years. It seemed that all our aspirations had finally come together and
despite enjoying every moment of the trip from Plymouth, this had to be the most
satisfying.
Sailing the Algarve.
Rounding up at Punta de Sagres and looking down the Algarve coast to the east with
flat water, offshore breezes, blue skies and sandy beaches is a great delight. We used
to get on a "jet" and fly here. As already stated this was a great achievement for us
and I guess many before us. Incredibly a mile or two to the east of Sagres the swell
seems to disappear and the seascape takes on an entirely different perspective to the
west coast.
It is however not without its hazards and I've tried to include below some aspects
which I believe are worth considering........
General information.
Without doubt the most definitive local resource in these parts is the Lagos
Navigators. Their website contains much information, built up over many years, with
contributions from a great many experienced yachtsman. A recent interesting
contribution is a recent account of a boarding by the Portuguese authorities this
summer in Lagos Bay and details exactly what they were required to present.
http://www.lagosnavigators.net/
I found Martin Northney's website another excellent source of information and
provides good local descriptions with detail on many of the Algarve ports.
http://www.theiberianseaschool.com/component/content/article/18-articles/42Unlike the rest of Portugal, it seems that on the Algarve, regular checks are made on
yachts by the Portuguese authorities. Other than ensuring that I could comply with
Portuguese requirements for flares and life raft, I purchased Lighthouse Tax in Lagos
(new offices right opposite marina) and used an anchor ball and "riding" light when at
anchor plus a motoring cone whilst motor sailing.
Safety notices.
Buoyed fish farms and nets was something new to us. These are well marked, normally
with IALA buoys, not a problem during daylight hours but after dark lights are erratic.
Fortunately these are documented by the Lagos Navigators along with other maritime
notices. The locations do change from time to time so keeping up to date is a good idea.
Jules at RU Sailing (RYA) in Lagos is a particularly good contributor to these updates.
This is a fantastic place to learn to sail, why would you want to do this in the cold and
damp of a UK summer.
http://lagosnavigators.net/home-notes/Safety%20&%20Navigation.html
Much more safety content is included in the "notices to mariners".
Weather patterns and prevailing winds.
Throughout the summer the prevailing winds are northerly giving offshore conditions
with flat seas. The attached provides a more detailed explanation of the local effects.
It would seem good advice when selecting a marina berth to ask for a north facing
berth to reduce stress levels on an afternoon arrival.
http://www.theiberianseaschool.com/component/content/article/18-articles/45understanding-algarve-summer-weather-patterns
Tides.
On reaching the Algarve tide times become important again when entering the tidal
lagoons and rivers found on this stretch of coast. An explanation of the tidal effects
are described below.
http://www.theiberianseaschool.com/component/content/article/18-articles/46understanding-the-algarve-a-meditteranean-tides-a-currents
This link also includes local tide times that can be used plan arrivals at the appropriate
time where required.
Wind, tide and swell experienced summer 2103.
The northerly swell prevalent on the west coast soon diminishes when heading east
along the Algarve, the northerly winds do not and at times seem blow more strongly
being offshore in nature. The same process still applies however, lighter in the morning
stronger in the afternoon. This effect reduces the further east you go. However the
whole coast can experience significant swell, once weather systems bring westerly
weather.
Cabo de Santa Maria off the Faro lagoon is a significant feature and seemed to mark
the transition point for weather influenced by the west coast to weather from the east
and the Straits of Gibraltar. Additionally the out flow from the great rivers Gaudiana
and Guadalquivir have an impact on the tides and general progress along the coast.
When passage making towards Vila Real de San Antonio and the Gaudiana River after
rounding Cabo de Santa Maria we were surprised to find a 2 to 3 knot adverse current
when trying to reach the river near HW.
The real surprise for us however was the "Levanter" that blows easterly out of the
Straits. Friends told us that this could blow for a week or more, impeding progress into
the Med. At first we found this hard to believe but on studying the weather these
easterly's can be prolonged and when strongest effect the eastern Algarve, particular
with swell when blowing for many days. The further east you go the more the impact
and it can hinder progress along the coast especially around Cadiz.
If you have sailed the English Channel before, then none of these features will present
a problem as you will have come across far greater tidal gateways and wind over tide
situations in that area.
Baleeira / Sagres.
The first port of call once rounding Cape St Vincent is the anchorage at Sagres or
Baleeira as it is known. The small harbour here is reserved for fishing boats. As can be
seen from the picture it is a snug spot but it can be windy when the "Nortada" is
blowing. The anchorage is used by many to break the trip down to Lagos and most who
have stopped here will tell you about the swell which seems to find its way in from the
west coast not far away.
The anchorage at Baleeira / Sagres.
Lagos.
We love Lagos and consider it to be amongst the best locations to keep a boat outside
of the UK. The marina is far enough inland to be away from the sea and swell.
Entrance to Lagos around LW. The fair weather anchorage off Meia Praia is about
250m east of the entrance, centre of picture.
Entrance to Lagos near LW. Note the stump in the foreground. At HW this is
submerged and marked by the orange buoy.
The harbour is approached from the west around Ponta da Piedade, watch out for the
fish farm on the point. From the east it is straight forward enough crossing Lagos Bay.
The entrance is easy to find at the end of the long, sandy Meia Praia beach. Here there
is an anchorage used by many in the prevailing northerly wind but exposed to the south.
The entrance, which is shallow but passable at all states, leads to a canal. This shoaling
would make the entrance dangerous in bad onshore weather when Portimao would be a
better option.
Entrance to Lagos marina. 3 pontoons to starboard - Boa Esperance (no landing), diesel
pontoon, waiting pontoon. Marina office is the white building, central.
Follow the canal on past the fishing harbour and SOPROMARs boatyard and you will see
that progress is halted by a small footbridge. Just downstream of the bridge you will
find the arrivals pontoon. This can become a little congested so patience is required.
The office is up the ramp in front of you. Here they are very professional and will book
you in. Once a berth is allocated, a marinero is available if required, you will need to
contact them on VHF 09 and ask for the gate to be raised. They are very efficient and
you will rarely have to wait more than a few minutes.
Once inside the marina it is secure and the surrounding area well kept with restaurants
and bars within easy walking distance. A little to English, some might say but there is a
good mix and nothing too outrageous, we think. There is a large Pingo Doce almost on
the marina and the railway station is close by too. It is a 7E train ride to Faro and then
a 2E bus out to the airport per person if your flight time permits. It is possible to
travel the length of the Algarve from here and with a change in Faro, another 7E will
take you to Vila Real de San Antonio on the border with Spain about 2-3 hours.
Alternatively for the airport try one of the mini bus shuttles from the marina office
directly to the airport at 18E. We have found http://www.shuttledirect.com to be
reliable picking us up at 0400 for our 0730 flight.
Security is very good with guards patrolling the pontoons 24hrs a day. Access to the
marina is via contact with the office, for the swing bridge to be raised (times vary
depending on season). As it does not operate 24hrs a day this makes the marina very
secure. It does mean that you need to be organised however with your arrival and
departure plans. Should you wish to leave early or arrive late use the waiting pontoon
outside of the marina office.
http://www.marlagos.pt/EN/marina01.aspx?sector=01
Cost – Marina – May - 25E/night. Sept - 39E/night (inc CA discounts). No weekly rate.
There is a monthly rate. (generous CA discounts, check the website)
Free WIFI at marina. Diesel from filling station to rear of arrivals pontoon.
Excellent boatyard facilities in Lagos from SOPROMAR just downstream of the marina.
Work is ongoing here to improve the shore side facilities with a new building to include
showers and toilets, chandlers and new accommodation block for stays when fitting out.
It is possible to live aboard and work on your own boat here, many do.
Lagos is a well established yachting centre and has many services on offer. If you can't
find what you are looking for, ask the local Navigators as I suspect there is little that
can't be fixed or bought. Some of the services we used.........
Sail maker and storage - http://fofovelas.com - Antonio. Sails stored 2E/sail/month.
Fridge engineer - Paul Kent - tested and re-gassed the system. Renewed thermostat
Electronics - John Holloway.
(I have these contact details if required, alternatively ask one of the Navigators).
Life raft servicing - http://www.orey-tecnica.pt/. Good recommendation on Navigators
forum.
View across Lagos marina.
There are a good many people, UK nationals and others who have made Lagos their home
port and rightly so as it is a delightful spot. So established are these folk that they
have their own website http://www.lagosnavigators.net and more recently a "forum" for
exchanging information.
The Lagos Navigators are without doubt the most informative source for cruising
locally and the website is a "mine" of information. Regular posting and updates are made
on a variety of subjects including navigational information. It costs nothing to join this
group and they welcome new visitors. I found it useful to sign on to their e-mail
distribution before arriving on the Algarve to keep abreast of local developments.
Joining is simple, just add your details to the "Who is here" part of the website and
Terry will come along and give you a membership card. Membership has its financial
benefits as many local establishments offer discounts to members. I was also able to
secure a significant benefits on my 9 month contract at the marina by quoting
Navigators membership, including 200E reduction on berthing fees and a 100E donation
to charity by the marina. (based on marina discount scheme at the time).
There are numerous activities offered by the Navigators and we have particularly
enjoyed the Friday night suppers. Excellent value, great fun and an opportunity to meet
like minded sailing folk. All of this is announced on two VHF radio nets at 0930 on a
Friday and Monday mornings so you really do feel involved. Above all the Navigators are
not imposing and you are not expected to join any of the activities they organise. I
suspect that this is because so many people come and go but the "core" of locals just
get on with what they enjoy and are more than happy to share this should you want to
join in. Excellent !
An important focus of the Navigators is raising money for local charities and we should
all do our best to support this aspect.
Outside of the marina everything is within a reasonable walking distance. To reach the
main town of Lagos requires crossing the river via the lifting bridge close to the marina
office. To the left, walking down the "Avenida" you will come to the area of Lagos that
caters for the many tourists that visit the town. This is reasonably tasteful and the
buildings are authentic which gives the place a nice feel. Don't miss the daily indoor
market selling fresh fish and other produce. Further on there are more historical
aspects and then the beach area commences with lovely coves, stacks and grottos.
Turn right after crossing the foot bridge and this will take you to the more Portuguese
and residential part of town. As you would expect, you will find better value here along
with another large Pingo Doce and Lidl. There are other supermarkets around but these
are a little further afield.
The marina is one of those ocean cross roads being on the direct route for passing to
and from the Mediterranean but also as one of the last staging points for an Atlantic
crossing. There are yachts coming and going all year round and during our stay in
September and October the place was vibrant. Here many boats were gathering to
cross the Atlantic via Madeira or Canaries. A score of ARC boats were making
preparations and everyday someone would leave for the crossing to "fanfares" and
wishes of "good luck". I was amazed by the number and variety of boats and crews that
were heading out from every nation including Americans heading home. Truly
memorable.
The final aspect worthy of mention, in my opinion, is Meia Praia beach, which can be
found by walking past the railway station, then on past the fishing harbour and
SOPROMARs boatyard. This wonderful stretch of sand is approximately 5km in length,
right down to the river entrance at Alvor. We love to walk here and wade in the clear
water.
If you decide to over winter here, you will not be short of social activity.
Alvor.
The Alvor lagoon is a snug spot once the entrance channel has been negotiated. I
suggest checking the Lagos Navigators website, as regular updates on the position of
buoys is made.
http://www.lagosnavigators.net/html/cruising.html
Entrance to Alvor lagoon is via a short canal.
Anchorage just inside the entrance to Alvor. In this case to starboard. There is a
similar anchorage to port.
On entering Alvor there are anchorages to port and starboard. The channel then leads
inshore marked by the first green buoy, which can just be seen to the left of this
photograph.
Anchorage inside the Alvor lagoon. Parts are shallow.
The channel leads in from the entrance in a large sweeping turn to starboard but varies
so some local knowledge is preferable.
Once anchored there is a convenient landing pontoon but I would ensure that all is
locked securely before going ashore. There are a number of restaurants and cafe's on
the waterfront and supermarket facilities further afield in Alvor town.
Portimao.
Portimao marina is reached by entering the Rio Arade. This is a large entrance, with no
offshore hazards and is well marked up to the marina entrance. The river is deep and
can be accessed at all states of the tide. It would be a far better and safer option, to
enter here than Lagos or most of the ports on the Algarve coast in poor conditions.
Once past the breakwaters continue up river and the marina comes into view to port.
Just before arriving at the marina entrance, pictured, watch out for silting on the end
of the breakwater of the south basin. This is marked by a red buoy. The tide does run
strongly on the ebb but this is not "one way traffic". Portimao is a working port so keep
an "eye" out for ships and there is a large fishing fleet based here.
Entrance to Portimao with Ferragudo anchorage to left of picture.
View over Portimao marina south basin, the most sheltered for winter gales. Ferragudo
beach and fishing village beyond.
On entering don't forget to take the view inland as the river stretches right up into
the Monchique mountains offering a terrific backdrop.
We like Portimao very much and can easily understand why some people prefer to be
based here. The marina is part of a hotel complex and is secure and well kept. There
are 2 basins to port and starboard on entering.
The arrivals pontoon is in the north basin along with the marina office on the long
pontoon or wave break when entering the basin. The marineros are helpful here and will
meet you on arrival during the day.
Portimao marina entrance and arrivals pontoon in north basin.. Marina office is the
round building at the end of pontoon, out of picture.
We had heard that the early morning departures of the fishing fleet were an issue
creating much wash in the marina. I can't say that we noticed anything. I do understand
that swell gets into the marina in SW gales particularly during the winter months. It
would seem to me therefore that the south basin would offer more shelter. During the
summer months the north basin is preferable as the south one is closer to the bars and
discos. More importantly the views from the north basin are a delightful open aspect
looking straight out onto the river and across to the lovely beaches at Ferragudo.
The anchorage at Ferragudo is large and well sheltered, indeed many spend a great deal
of time anchored here. It is easy to find and stretches from the starboard hand
breakwater on entering, right down as far as Ferragudo village. I have read that
anchoring off Ferragudo is not permitted but we have seen people here and upstream
of the moorings out of the fairway. Whilst undoubtedly more sheltered than lower
down by the breakwater, there is much passing traffic and this would make things a
little uncomfortable. Landing is on the beach where there are several restaurants and
beach bars. Ferragudo fishing village is only a short walk down the beach or "trundle" in
the dinghy where you will find fish restaurants right on the quay. The smell of sardines
grilling on the barbeques outside will have you dining there without a doubt.
On the Portimao side people seem to use the pontoon on the inside of the outer
breakwater of the south basin but stay away from the small ferry dock which takes
passengers over to Ferragudo.
There is much to do in Portimao including a very nice sandy beach at Praia Rocha that
includes a boardwalk for its entire length. Behind the boardwalk are a number of very
nice restaurants which face west and take in the sunset, a great spot. Further
restaurants front the marina.
Carrying on upstream it is a 30 minute walk or less by bike into Portimao town. This is
very Portuguese with prices to match and caters for pretty much everything. There are
a number of large supermarkets and shopping "malls" as well as the local shops in the
town centre. Good rail and bus connections to Faro.
Beyond this and over the river bridge you will find the boatyards. These yards are the
largest facility I have seen on the west coast and can rival anything in the UK for size.
The travel lifts have the capability to deal with enormous boats and there are some
small ships ashore here. The yard is administered by the marina and there are many
capabilities offered ashore by SOPROMAR and Bluewater amongst others.
For us Portimao and all described is at sea level. Take the steps or climb the hill and
this will take you the resort area of Praia Rocha and all that is on offer there.
http://www.marinadeportimao.com.pt/en/
Cost – Marina – May 104E/week. Sept 39E/night.
WIFI at marina but this is a Vodaphone pay deal. Not too expensive and good
connectivity. Free internet inside the office. Diesel from filling station on inside end of
arrivals pontoon.
Albufiera.
As can be seen from the picture the entrance to Albufiera is exposed to the east and
to a certain extent the south. If there is any swell and particularly near HW the
arrivals pontoon is in my opinion untenable and you can see this from the swell rolling
down the pontoon. Assuming all is well when you arrive the office is close to this
pontoon.
Should you find that landing is a problem my suggestion would be to carry on a little
further and to starboard an area of pontoons normally allocated to larger vessels
appears (see pic 2). It is a short walk from here back to the office and far safer. To
my mind, this is where the arrivals berth should be.
There are generous discounts to be had here and I managed a 15% discount for CA
membership. However with the best efforts of myself and the CA office we couldn't
get them to formalise this.
Albufiera town has a reputation for being a rather "rowdy" place and it is very much a
holiday resort and little else. The marina however is a long way out of the town and
seems to miss the worst. It's not a memorable location but we thought it better than
expected. As a marina its fine and the showers pretty good by local standards.
Albufiera marina arrivals pontoon badly affected by swell. If it's like this carry on past
until dock opens up to starboard.
There is a convenience store on site and a larger supermarket up the hill towards
Albufiera town. Walk up the hill to the church yard and you will find "Rua Cliff Richard"
(seriously). Turn left and follow this road for 100m and the supermarket is on the RHS.
We also found a very nice Indian restaurant here with terrific views out to sea. I
understand the circular bus route over to Albufiera will take you to larger
supermarkets.
Albufiera marina. Arrivals pontoon and marina office in centre. If arrivals pontoon is
untenable carry on to berths to starboard.
http://marina.marinaalbufeira.com/
Cost – Marina – Sept 33E/night (inc 15% CA discount). Generous discounts by
negotiation for long or short term stays.
WIFI available at marina office or many bars around the marina. Diesel from filling
station on pontoon to port on entering marina. In front of green sheds pictured.
Vliamoura.
Vilamoura is a little difficult to find when approaching from the east and should not be
confused with the fishing harbour at Quarteira a few miles to the west.
All becomes clear as you approach and the high rise hotels are clearly the landmark.
The approach is via a short canal leading to the marina proper and is flanked on both
sides by golden sandy beaches. The reception area is obvious and to port on entering.
On arriving you can't fail but notice the large motor yachts moored in front of the
hotel Tivoli and a glance into the marina reveals many more powerboats. The marina
team are helpful and on hand when berthing. In the office they are firm and the very
suggestion of discounts un-thinkable.
The visitor area is over to starboard when entering the marina and be careful when
alighting as the pontoons are "wobbly". It is not that bad however and typical of many
marinas visited.
Vilamoura is a large purpose built complex serving a number of golf courses with the
marina at its centre surrounded by restaurants, bars and shops. There is a taste for
everyone but no bargains to be had here as costs are expensive. Vilamoura is
unashamedly a holiday resort visited by nationalities of all sorts, including a high
number of Portuguese. I would say for that purpose it is a pretty good. We found it
noisy well into the small hours but that's what people on holiday do. If you want
Portugal then take a walk over to Quarteira.
All facilities can be found here including a well stocked chandlers and hard standing for
wintering ashore. It is the closet marina to Faro airport so is convenient in that
respect.
Entrance to Vilamoura marina, arrivals pontoon to port, diesel pontoon beyond.
There are several small supermarkets around the marina and larger over in Quarteira.
It was possible to find reasonable costs by moving a block or two away from the marina
frontage where there are some nice pastalarias with normal prices.
Marina prices are reasonable up to 1st June at 19E/night and it made us smile when
thinking of the cost some holiday makers must be paying. Into the summer months and
the costs soar in June to 50E+ and rises again to 60E+ in July / August. At these rates
I would feel cheated as the facilities are not as good as further along the coast.
http://www.marinadevilamoura.com/en/
Cost – Marina – May 19E/night. Becomes very expensive from 1st June. No CA discounts
at marina.
Free WIFI at marina. Diesel from filling station on pontoon to port on entering
marina at far end of reception pontoon.
Ria Formosa.
The Ria Formosa is a magical place and we loved it.
"End of the day". Anchorage at Culatra.
Basically a massive inland lagoon fronted at the seaward end by barrier islands. Some of
these islands are inhabited by local fishermen but many are deserted white sand
beaches. To landward there are 2 large urban areas Faro and Olhao and whilst there
are no dedicated marinas for visitors, it is possible to anchor off and visit for
sightseeing and shopping.
Tides in the approach to Cabo de Santa Maria and the entrance to the lagoon are
significant and whilst cruising past an hour or so before LW we found a good 2 knot
tide against us whilst on passage to Ayamonte. Similarly on leaving Ayamonte around
HW and heading for the lagoon we had 2 knots or so with us for most of the passage
meaning that we arrived early, before LW and the tide starting to "make" in the
narrows. This was not an issue.
As can be seen in the picture the entrance is relatively narrow and with the ebb tide
running off the lagoon tides become strong up to 7 knots on springs. All this scouring
means that the entrance channel is deep and passable at all states. To be prudent a fair
tide is required and this provides a good window of access.
Entrance to Ria Formosa taken from the anchorage. Isla Culatra to port and Isla
Deserta to starboard (of the picture).
When entering from the west watch out for a very large fish farm offshore and in the
approach. This is very well marked with IALA marks and will almost certainly have
boats working during daylight hours. It is possible to pass inside this fish farm but as a
sand spit has started to grow from the western shore just before the entrance, care is
needed to avoid this.
In June we entered from the west with an easterly F4 and a 2.5m swell running, such is
the extent of a "Levanter" blowing in the Straits. The swell increased as we neared the
narrows. Although waves were breaking on the walls either side of us we passed
through with "white knuckles" but safely.
There are numerous places to anchor usually with good holding in "gloopy, sandy mud",
some of the most popular seem to be ...............
Isla Culatra - the most popular and off the main island. This is a large anchorage and
can accommodate very many yachts. It does get busy in high season and the local
fishing boats passing by at high speed are mildly irritating. You soon get used to this
and at high speed their wash is actually less significant.
Anchorage at Culatra looking back towards the island.
Entrance to Ria Formosa - The picture of the entrance is taken from the anchorage
close to the entrance. Here there are 2 access channels. To port up to Faro and to
starboard up to Culatra and Olhao. The anchorage is out of the tide between the 2
channels.
Faro lagoon - 5 miles up the Faro channel you arrive at the Faro lagoon where you will
find a number of local moorings that are privately owned. The anchorage here is just
downstream and out of the main channel to port (on entering). The tide does run
strongly here but it is sheltered with little open sea to create a "fetch" from the
strong northerly afternoon winds.
Anchorage at Faro lagoon. The power boat is on a mooring in the lagoon and downstream
you can see boats in the anchorage.
Olhao - At Olhao there are 2 marinas but no visitor berths. It is possible to berth for
short periods on the pontoon used by trip boats, obviously well out of their way. I also
met a guy who had stayed there all weekend without charge. There are no facilities
here and also a lack of security.
The anchorage is between the marina enclosed by this pontoon and a further marina
upstream. It is best described as "snug" but there were 10 or so boats at anchor on our
visit.
Perhaps an alternative for visiting Olhao when anchored at Culatra is to "stay put" and
use the ferry from the island in to town. We met several people who had used that
option.
The attached link contains far greater and informed descriptions to my own and is a
excellent guide.
http://www.theiberianseaschool.com/component/content/article/18-articles/164-riaformosa-in-the-algarve-portugal
I found the tide tables in the attached a useful source of reference
http://www.theiberianseaschool.com/faro-olhao-tides
Caution - It is the Portuguese authorities based in Faro that are reputedly the
"hottest" when making checks for safety compliance. This is a good place for proper
use of anchoring signals and a cone whilst motoring.
Entrance to the Guadiana River.
The Guadiana River is vast and stretches for many miles in land consequently there is a
large amount of movement during the tide. The entrance does not dry out but becomes
shallow as the tide recedes. For this reason planning arrival and departure should be
considered carefully. We have done both within 2 hours of HW without difficulty. I'm
sure there is a greater window but that worked for us. The depth would I'm sure make
the entrance dangerous in a large swell particularly with wind / swell against the ebb
tide.
Whilst cruising up from Cabo de Santa Maria you will find more fish farms to avoid and
a much greater population of "pot life". This will become the "norm" now as you are
heading back into Spanish waters, where "artificial reef" are charted all the way to
Tarifa. Many of these pots are in pairs and I am convinced that they are actually nets
strung between the two but at some depth. These "pots" really are prolific and in the
end you become complacent in passing quite close to them whilst coasting in these
parts.
Off the Guadiana River the pots increase in density and it is sometimes confusing. The
entrance is not easy to see until close in. Eventually you will "pick out" the long harbour
wall on the Portuguese side and the 4 channel markers will appear, 2 red, 2 green, no
fairway. Once past these make up towards the harbour wall taking care to watch the
strong set to starboard. The training wall to the east is submerged.
Once up to the harbour wall you are in and the tide will soon "whizz" you up to Vila Real.
Note- My comments concerning the pots is to raise awareness, it is all "do-able" but you
are just advised to keep a good look out.
Vila Real de San Antonio.
Entrance to Vila Real marina to the left of picture, arrivals on inside of long pontoon in
centre, diesel pontoon to the right outside marina.
The first thing you notice when entering the river is that all the local boats carry both
Portuguese and Spanish courtesy flags. This is because the river is the border between
Portugal and Spain. The one on top determines their nationality. Vila Real de San
Antonio to port and Ayamonte to starboard. The Portuguese authorities police the river
and so the same compliance is required. We met a guy in Ayamonte who had wintered up
river, this spring he was boarded and his life raft was out of date. He was not fined but
had to get it serviced and report back before leaving the river.
The marina at Vila Real is small and little room to manoeuvre between the pontoons,
think "Treguier", if you know what I mean. The tide runs strongly through the marina
and much damage could be done if manoeuvring at the wrong state of tide.
The entrance to the marina is downstream at the far end of this picture and visitors
arrive on the long pontoon that can be seen before being allocated a berth. I e-mailed
ahead to enquire about a berth and the marina team were friendly but strongly advised
arriving at slack water to take up a berth. If you want to visit do contact them first.
We have friends who both like and advise against this marina due to the tide. We
decided to go straight to Ayamonte as it is easy to visit Vila Real via ferry from the
Spanish side.
There are reasonable facilities in Vila Real including a boatyard. The main Algarve rail
link in the east terminates here and it is possible to travel via Faro back to Lagos. In
fact the trip to Faro is a good one passing through the old salt pans where we saw pink
flamingos. Close to the railway station, which is a little way out of town there is a large
Intermarche supermarket.
http://www.anguadiana.com/index.php/marina
Cost – Marina – Unsure. Check the marina website above.
WIFI at marina, not sure but many cafes in town. Diesel from filling station on pontoon
just upstream of marina. Tide runs strongly here.
There is an active yacht club here and the website is attached. It is possible to anchor
in many places on the starboard side of the river opposite Vila Real right up to the
large road bridge but clear of Ayamonte main quay. Favourite places seemed to be....
opposite the yacht club, just downstream of the entrance to Ayamonte marina and past
Ayamonte below the road bridge. I understand it is possible to land a dinghy at the
yacht club in Vila Real but Ayamonte seemed to be more difficult.
South West Spain.
The coast of South west Spain is largely flat but is dominated by the massive rivers of
the Guadiana at Ayamonte and the Guadalquivir close to Chipiona. The coast is fronted
by long sandy beaches and the area is very Spanish. Whilst in many places there are
tourist resorts these are not given over to the influx of visitors from northern Europe.
This is refreshing and you feel back in the real world, away from the multi-national
tourism of the Algarve. It is still a tourist area but you won't find a "full English
breakfast" between Ayamonte and Cadiz, if you take my understanding.
I have already mentioned the proliferation of "pot life" and this continues along the
coast.
On the downside, because of the outflows from these two massive rivers the water is
not clear as it is further west. The cloudiness is somewhat off putting and despite the
lovely beaches is not that inviting for a swim. Huelva and Cadiz are also large ports so
there is much traffic around these two areas, particularly close to Huelva where there
is also much industrialisation, which is unattractive. This is noticeable when entering
Mazagon.
That said it is a great cruising ground with much variety and interest. Prices are much
cheaper than the Mediterranean and all of the major ports are managed by the Junta
de Andulacia. Their excellent website is attached below along with individual links to
each harbour, many include a video depicting entrance to the marina.
http://www.eppa.es/en/andalusian-ports
Ayamonte.
Ayamonte is the first of the Andalucian ports and "gem" of a place. Very Spanish, full
of character, narrow streets and tapas bars but if you look hard enough you can find
more cosmopolitan restaurants hidden away.
As you progress down the river passing Vila Real to port, Ayamonte will soon come up.
Just before the ferry quay the marina appears to starboard and you will be able to see
into the marina as in the picture. The tide runs strongly across the entrance so you will
need to compensate for this. As can be seen there is a green marker buoy in the centre
of the entrance. you must leave this to starboard as a sand spit is encroaching the
entrance. To port you will see a disused pontoon, the old diesel quay no longer in use.
From here head straight into the marina and my suggestion would be to take a hammer
head or any berth and visit the marina office, a porta cabin, the marina team speak
English and are very helpful.
During June 2013 there was plenty of room in the marina but the entrance was silting
up around LW when we saw many people go aground entering and leaving the marina.
I've no idea how this has progressed but as you will be arriving around HW it should
present little problem. At this time arriving and departing 2 hrs either side of LW was
not a problem.
Entrance to Ayamonte marina. Leave the green buoy in the centre to starboard. The
tide runs quickly across the entrance.
There is much to see and do in Ayamonte which also has the best Yacht Chandlers on
the Algarve and Andalucia for that matter. This is "AYAMAR" and the Dutch owner will
deliver up to Lagos if you arrange this with him when he is visiting.
http://www.nauticayamar.com/
The town has a good selection of food stores and there are larger supermarkets
further afield. The fish market is a "must see" for the stock of fresh fish and I have
never seen such giant blue fin tuna and swordfish on sale. There is also a fresh produce
market.
A trip to the zoo will astound you. This is located in the park area at the back of the
marina and is a municipal zoo with no charge. If you want the beach, Isla Canela is a 30
minute bike ride or a short bus trip, catch this not far from the marina.
There are no shore side facilities in Ayamonte but there is a boatyard over in Vila Real
where you can store your boat, live aboard but cannot work below the water line.
http://www.eppa.es/en/marina-ayamonte
Cost – Marina – May 16.50E/night. June/July/Aug 33E/ night. no weekly or monthly
rate.
No WIFI at marina but is available with an external antenna from the computer shop in
town and overlooking the marina. Find the Indian Restaurant (excellent by the way) you
can see from the berths, it is next door and up stairs.
Diesel from road filling station not far away on road out of town. Road prices and
cheap. Alternatively there is a marine diesel pontoon at Vila Real. Caution - pick your
time as the river runs strongly.
Guadiana River.
To date we have not ventured up the Guadiana River and have that treat when we get
going again in 2014.
The attached website covers the trip up river in some detail.
The river bridge looking up the Guadiana river where approx 20.5m clearance is
required to pass under at HW (source RCC pilot).
Isla Canela.
We did not visit Isla Canela by boat only by land. The river entrance to Isla Canela and
Isla Christina is via a short canal. It is not accessible at any state of tide but has a
greater range than the Guadiana. It does shoal and would therefore be dangerous in
onshore wind or swell. If wanting to visit I suggest you contact the marina by e-mail or
phone. English was widely spoken and they were very helpful, providing me with current
tide tables.
Isla Canela is to port on entering the river and the tide runs strongly across the
entrance to the marina basin, once in it is quiet small. The marina office is to port on
entering, opposite the fishing harbour. Once in you are totally enclosed and at the
centre of a purpose built holiday complex. It is pleasant enough and on our list of places
to visit. There are restaurants and bars around the marina but nothing too noisy. There
is a small store on site.
It is the beaches that draw people here (mainly Spanish and Portuguese) and they are
very nice indeed, miles of golden sand, well managed with a great cycle path for much
of its length back to the Guadiana River
http://www.eppa.es/en/marina-isla-canela
Cost – Marina – June, 30E/night.
No WIFI at marina but cafes close by. Diesel - Unclear but this is a working fishing
harbour so diesel must be available.
Mazagon.
Mazagon sits at the entrance to Huelva and as you approach you will soon see the
longest harbour wall you are ever likely to see, think miles. Access to the river is deep,
well marked and at most states of tide. Watch out for large ships in the approach as
Huelva is a busy industrial port.
Before entering the marina you will see the sheltered anchorage to port, in front of
you. On entering the marina the reception and diesel pontoon are to port. The entrance
is a bit of a blind spot. A berth will be allocated.
There is very little at the marina other than the cafe / bar which is pleasant enough.
However it is a long way to walk into the town and we were un-inspired by our visit,
lasting one night. Perhaps we need to give the place more of a chance because the
beach was very nice indeed.
http://www.eppa.es/en/marina-mazagon
No WIFI at marina but there is a cafe on site with wifi that can be accessed with
antenna from the berths. Diesel from filling station on pontoon to port on entering.
Warning - I do not wish to discourage anyone from visiting Mazagon but will report
what I have heard. A number of people advised us to hang on to our payment receipts
following our visit, for 2 to 3 years, as it has been known for them to make contact for
payment, suggesting you had left without paying. Similarly when taking on diesel we
were told to ensure that the pump had been reset to zero before commencing as some
people reported being over charged.
I have to say that we stayed 1 night and bought diesel with no bad effects to date and
the marina team were very friendly and helpful. Perhaps others experiences were down
to "an individual" who has now left, who knows but it clearly demonstrates how
reputations can be ruined.
Chipiona.
Chipiona is situated at the entrance to the Guadalquivir River which is navigable for
55nm in land, up to Seville.
Arrivals and diesel pontoon at Chipiona.
The entrance to the river is wide and well marked, regularly used by large ships. The
tides do run strongly however so timing your arrival on the flood would be an advantage.
Approach from the east is straight forward enough providing you stand out to the
fairway buoy and not cut across the banks inshore. A wreck still sits on these banks by
way of warning. Coming from the west is different and care should be taken to avoid
the reef that lies offshore.
We approached on LW and whilst we did get in OK it was very shallow by local
standards. The arrivals pontoon is to port on entering the marina as can be seen in the
picture. This also includes the diesel pontoon. There are 2 docks here and you will be
allocated a berth on arrival.
Chipiona is a rather run down Spanish tourist resort but there are some nicer parts if
you look hard enough, particularly around the lighthouse area. Most things can be found
here including supermarkets.
There is a travel lift and hard standing.
http://www.eppa.es/en/marina-chipiona
No WIFI at marina but there are cafes and restaurants overlooking the marina where
this is available. Diesel from filling station on pontoon close to arrivals.
The Bay of Cadiz.
This is a destination in its own right with much to see and do, great variety. Three
major Spanish cities are accessible from here, Cadiz, Jerez and Seville, although with
so much to do, Seville is probably better visited from Ayamonte where there is a direct
bus.
There is history, lovely beaches, shopping and Cadiz is crammed with restaurants and
tapas bars amongst its narrow streets and shady squares.
There are 4 marinas in the Bay, Puerto America in Cadiz city, Puerto Santa Maria,
Puerto Sherry and Rota along with some reasonable anchorages.
This is a great place to wait out a weather window before heading for Gibraltar and the
Mediterranean. It may take longer than you think, as the "Levanter" can deliver strong
easterly winds for a week or more during the summer. Cadiz is heavily influenced by
this feature that can bring gale force easterly winds and high swell into the Bay.
Cadiz Bay - Rota.
Rota sits at the eastern end of Cadiz Bay and there is a need to stay well offshore due
to "shoals" when approaching from the west. From the east is straightforward. By now
you may well have heard American voices on the VHF. In the middle of Cadiz Bay is a
US Naval base and a good look out should be kept for ships on manoeuvre and indeed
other nautical traffic as Cadiz is a busy port.
When approaching the harbour you will see the anchorage off the beach dead ahead,
careful entering the marina as this is a real "blind spot" and the fast ferry to Cadiz
enters / leaves regularly.
The arrivals pontoon is as pictured and is quite small. When we arrived it was full so we
attached ourselves to the diesel pontoon. The office is up the steps and across the
road in the ferry terminal building. Don't be tempted to use the pontoon beneath the
ferry office if it is vacant as this is where the ferry docks.
We liked Rota very much indeed. It has interesting buildings in the old town close to
the marina where you will also find the library. The small church does not look anything
from outside but venture inside and you will be amazed, gold everywhere reflecting the
history of this ancient sea port and its importance during the Spanish conquests in the
Americas.
The beach is very good and the new town has narrow streets and tapas bars as you
would expect. It is a little touristy (Spanish wise) and there is some evidence of
restaurants meeting the needs of the American naval base, to be expected I suppose.
There are 2 large supermarkets a little further afield and not difficult to find but best
ask for directions at the office.
As already mentioned the ferry serves Cadiz and deposits passengers right in the city
centre so that is an option.
Entrance to Rota marina looking over arrivals pontoon.
Travel lift and hard standing at the marina.
http://www.eppa.es/en/marina-rota
No WIFI at marina and you will need to find the library in town for free internet
access or from one of the many cafes in town. There are cafes and bars close to the
marina but none had wifi at the time of our visit. Diesel from filling station close to
arrivals pontoon.
Cadiz Bay - Puerto America.
We had heard mixed reports about Puerto America, very tight, in the docks, miles from
the city. Some of this is true but it is all manageable. It is tight depending on your size.
Entrance to Puerto America and first basin pass thro' here. The diesel pontoon is below
here.
Puerto America second basin with arrivals pontoon clearly visible in background.
It's not really in the docks but beyond a container port. It is a good walk into the city
(20 mins) but with great views once you get up on harbour wall. We decided to eat out
in the city and returned on foot around 2200 without an issue. If you were going to be
later a taxi would be a good idea.
The entrance to Cadiz is the same as any large port and due care should be taken.
Puerto America is the first marina to starboard as you make your way into the main
harbour, it has 2 basins. Don't confuse it with the Yacht Club marina a little further on.
Once you have entered the marina carry straight on through the first basin and into
the second. At the end of the pontoon pictured come to port and you will see the
arrivals pontoon. If this is full take a berth on the pontoon to starboard of it. The
marina office is not the white building in the picture but up the ramp and head for the
white porta cabin to the left of the picture. A berth will be allocated but by choice I
would ask to stay in the second basin.
WIFI was good from the pontoons and there is a small yacht club / bar at the marina
for a beer or two. I have heard it is possible to get a meal in the Yacht Club marina
which advertises a restaurant. This can be accessed via intercom on their locked gate
as you leave the marina.
Cadiz is a great city and full of character, it should not be missed. There is pretty
much all you could need in the city but we liked the supermarket at El Corte Ingles and
this is a little way out. The best plan is to catch a bus that leaves from the city, not far
from where you will walk. Ask at the Tourist Info for the route No. The office is
located in the centre, opposite the waterfront, you can't miss it.
I found the marina to be secure and well out of any weather or swell in the second
basin where we were moored, not sure about the first one. There were limited facilities
for larger boats but a good chandlers on site "Nautica Benetiz" who are also Volvo
Agents and are well stocked with parts. I like to use Volvo engine oil and was able to
purchase 5lts here at roughly the same cost as the UK and cheaper than in Gibraltar.
http://www.eppa.es/en/marina-puerto-america
Free WIFI at marina arrange in office. Diesel from filling station to port on entering
the marina and between the two basins
Cadiz Bay - Puerto Sherry.
Puerto Sherry is an interesting place and a better bet in my opinion for visiting Puerto
Santa Maria, the home of sherry bodegas and a working bull ring. There is a marina in
the river run by the yacht club. The club is very nice but the marina sits in the tide and
there is a "steel crushing" plant on the opposite bank.
When approaching Puerto Sherry you will find the entrance just to the east of the long
breakwaters leading into Puerto Santa Maria. Between these two is a beach which is a
useful anchorage. At the time of our visit several yachts were anchored here in good
shelter but the swell did seem to encroach on the anchorage.
As you enter the marina watch for silting from the breakwater with the tower,
pictured. You can just see some small red buoys that are marking this shoal in the
entrance. The tower is the marina office and the arrivals pontoon is astern of the
wooden ship, pictured. The marina is independent and not part of the EPPA group, it has
some "querks". The office are very official and want everything done by the book. They
will ask you if you want electricity and require a plug, of course you will. They then ask
you for a 100E deposit and present you with the most enormous electrical plug you will
have ever seen, came from a power station, I'm sure. That's when you discover that
there is nothing on the end of it and you are expected to remove your own shore power
plug and replace it with this one. Sounds problematical but it's easy, really. We were
then allocated a berth on "E" pontoon and handed a plan indicating the berth on which
we should moor. When we arrived someone was in the berth we had been allocated so I
went into the one 2 "doors" away. It turns out that we did actually go in to the right
berth and that there were 2 additional fingers on the pontoon not shown on the plan
given to us ...... hey ho !!
Entrance to Puerto Sherry indicating shoal area in entrance, arrivals pontoon and
marina office.
Puerto Sherry is a semi complete marina village and resort. The pictures on the website
are specially selected to include the completed buildings, many are not completed and it
resembles a "bomb site" in places.
Given everything I have just written we like Puerto Sherry and it is by far the largest
yachting resource in these parts. A large sheltered marina and vast boatyard capability
with most things available. Being within striking distance of Jerez airport it is well
connected along with the ferry to Cadiz for excellent rail and bus connections. There
are some lovely beaches and nice restaurants in the complex, many of which overlook
Cadiz Bay for a leisurely "sundowner". We could not find these views so close to the
marina in any of the other locations. Santa Maria is a 30 minute walk and has the usual
shops, bars and restaurants. There is a small supermarket on site and a larger one on
the main road into the town.
http://www.puertosherry.com/en/?lang=2
Free WIFI at marina but you have to register. Diesel from filling station in marina
Options for Wintering on the Algarve and Andalucía.
Wintering ashore
Portugal
Faro - Nave Pegos - http://www.navepegos.com - Good yard but storage only, little
shore side facilities. Excellent access to Faro city and airport. Known as Bruce's
boatyard. Seaward access interesting check website. We spent 2 months ashore here in
July & August 2013, cost 991E. You are able to live aboard and do your own work here,
many do. We were happy with the yard and would use the facility again.
Lagos - Sopromar - http://en.sopromar.com - excellent boatyard and facilities,
complementing Lagos Marina.
Portimao - Yard managed by Marina de Portimao http://www.marinadeportimao.com.pt/en/servicos/servicos-do-estaleiro.html
Incentives on yard facilities for contract berth holders. This is a massive facility, as
large as I have seen on the western seaboard. There are ships ashore here and the
travel hoist is enormous. We have friends who keep their boat ashore here but
personally I did not like the place much. I was most concerned about the "pack of dogs"
that seem to roam around.
Albufiera - Yard managed by Marina de Albufiera - Small boatyard with some hard
standing - http://marina.marinaalbufeira.com/en/estaleiro/estaleiro-da-marina-dealbufeira.html
Vilamoura - Yard managed by Marina de Vilamoura - Small boatyard. Convenient for
airport at Faro - http://www.marinadevilamoura.com/en/vilamoura-marina/
Vila Real de San Antonio - Downstream of the marina is a boatyard. e-mail address marinaguadiana@sapo.pt. I contacted them and prices were reasonable. You are able to
live aboard but not work on your boat below the waterline. Personally I was not happy
with the location being some distance from Vila Real.
South West Spain.
It is not normal in Spain for you to undertake work on your boat whilst out of the
water. Check before agreeing to a contract.
Cadiz Bay - Rota - Good hard standing. Check website above for details.
Cadiz Bay - Puerto Sherry. Largest of the Spanish boat yards with good access to
Jerez airport. - Check website above for details.
Wintering afloat
Portugal
Any of the marinas reported above. Monthly, 6 monthly and 9 monthly contracts
available. Discounts and incentives are available so ask when submitting an enquiry.
South West Spain
Any of the EPPA marinas and Puerto Sherry.
Weather Forecasts.
We now use web based forecasts as our primary source of weather information for
passage planning. It is helpful to have a range of forecasts to asses probability of
conditions to be expected. I am no expert but these sites have worked for us.
Portuguese Met Office.
http://www.ipma.pt/en/otempo/prev.10dias/index.jsp?localID=8&cidadeID=136
A useful source of information but short on forecasts for wind. Good for general
weather. I have signed up for their daily e-mail delivery of sea area forecasts and bad
weather "avisos".
Spanish weather forecast.
http://www.eltiempo.es/cadiz-costa/
This also covers the coast of Portugal with hourly graphics for wind and swell. Good
longer term land area forecasts. Regular updates throughout the day.
Wind Guru - Local forecasts.
http://www.windguru.cz
Used extensively throughout Portugal. Excellent detail and useful but a little too
location specific.
Large area and medium range forecasts.
http://passageweather.com/
Excellent source of information for sea and swell, regularly updated throughout the
day.
ECMWF - Longer term synoptic charts.
http://www.ecmwf.int/products/forecasts/d/charts/medium/deterministic/msl_uv850
_z500
Travel connections.
Living in the West Country our nearest airport is Bristol.Faro is accessible year round
with at least 3 flights per week with Easyjet or RyanAir.
Lisbon is less accessible from Bristol and it was necessary to travel to Gatwick from
October onwards. During the summer months Easyjet have a regular service to Lisbon.
On this route we found that TAP provide a regular service with similar costs but much
better than the low cost airlines.
Lisbon to the Algarve is served regularly by rail and bus. Typical fare from Lagos to
Lisbon around 20E per person each way.
Summary.
A few years ago whilst on holiday in Lagos, we both agreed that the time had come to
realise our ambitions of longer term cruising and decided then to make this happen as
soon as possible. In 2013, after 6 years, 3 of which we have been sailing full time, we
are living that long held ambition and have successfully moved our boat from Plymouth
to Lagos in Portugal.
We loved Lisbon and in the early part of the year, summer returned for us to enjoy
that area. Rounding Cabo de San Vincente after the exposed leg from Lisbon was a
great experience and relief to be on the Algarve. Portugal's Algarve is a wonderful
place to sail, with sophisticated marinas and plenty of safe anchorages. If you like
"pottering" as we do then this is the place. Andalucía and south west Spain is a
complete contrast and less populated by tourists from northern Europe. In the east is
the city of Cadiz which we thoroughly enjoyed and a micro cruising area in its own right.
The highlight for us however remains Lagos which we consider the "benchmark" from
which to measure other locations. We are enjoying our stay immensely and the
experience has been made all the more special due to the Lagos Navigators. I would
recommend a winter based here to anyone cruising in these parts.
This year's cruise has been shorter in distance than the two years previously but
equally as enjoyable. We are learning what is the best way for us to cruise and I am
sure others will have differing opinions. What I do know is that there is no right or
wrong way, it is your personal circumstances and preferences that are important. Above
all enjoying yourselves. For us 7 or 8 months a year aboard, with trips back to the UK
making up the remaining 4 months works. The summer months of July and August are
hot and expensive, unless you are prepared to anchor for long periods. This year we
hauled ONAWAY in Faro and returned home for this time and this worked well for us.
Equally the spring and autumn are wonderful, being sunny but not too hot and the sailing
season is extended easily into March and October. In fact you could sail all year long if
you wanted too. A month over Christmas and New Year this year was fantastic and an
opportunity to escape the "gloom" of the UK.
In time we will return to Lagos for a more extended stay but for now our “wanderlust”
is strengthened and we will continue our adventures onward into the Mediterranean,
taking our time as we go.
“Fair Winds”, as they say.
sv ONAWAY.
Foot note. Details above should not to be used for navigation and are based on our own
personal experience and views of the places visited.

Summer 2013 - ONAWAY in Portugal and South

Transcription

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