Fall trip to Scotland invited by ZeroWaste Scotland

Fall trip to Scotland invited by ZeroWaste Scotland and Scottish Smallholders and Growers Festival
September 24. – 27. September 2015.
On the road: Ingun Grimstad Klepp, Andrea Mørk Grundvig and Tone Skårdal Tobiasson
Summary:
1) We found the strongest link for men and quality clothing, while women’s clothing was much
more “disposable” as opposed to the national costumes in Norway that have been stronger
for women (with the man on formal occasions wearing a suit), though the use of expensive
nation costumes is increasing for men in Norway. The price for a full “regalia” of a tartan
costume is similar to a national costume in Norway.
2) “Made in Scotland” and a pride in the textile industry were closely linked, but focus on local
raw materials was as weak as in Norway. Cashmere and merino are the main sources of raw
material for the industry.
3) An over-all and coherent presentation of the textile industry and traditions for tourists was
lacking in the same way as in Norway. The “visitors’ center” in Edinburgh was not optimal,
and the focus on the commercial side (with innumerable shops) was the dominant flavor.
4) A label for British wool exists, as opposed to in Norway. It is not widely used, and as a
marketing tool and strategy with focus on a local raw material – we are not sure this is the
best solution.
5) There is a very positive and open interest in a closer cooperation with Norway, on a
governmental level.
Our first night we stayed in Motel One in Edinburgh, where we were met by tartan patterns on the
furniture and a big photo-panel in the café/lobby with sheep in the hills.
The next morning, Kitty Bruce-Gardyne picked us up at the motel. We had the pleasure of travelling
with the newly opened train line to Tweedbank, where one of the aims of this train line which had
recently been inaugurated by the Queen, was to reinvigorate the Borders. Kitty was passionate about
the mills, and evidently, the preceding weekend there had been mile long lines for travelling. The
area was beautiful and there is an obvious potential for destination tourism linked to visiting the
mills in the area.
We first travelled to Johnston Mills (the smaller of their two operations, the other and bigger is
located in Elgin), where we were given a guided tour by David Hamilton, Operations Director.
The film about the heritage of the company (http://www.johnstonscashmere.com/retail/aboutjohnstons-of-elgin/our-story-dvd/english) was interesting relating to how they presented
themselves: Value rather than volume, tradition and quality, pride in provenance, heritage and family
owned since 1797. Their main fibers are cashmere and fine woolens. Rather prominently, they had
displayed that they are official royal suppliers. We toured the factory and saw how they invest in new
machinery (in whole garment machines and other cost-cutting systems that actually are geared
towards more mass-production). This is the largest employer in the textile industry in Scotland with
460 employees. They had just invested in a Stoll machine that knits two meters wide fabric, along
with a new sock-machine which will produce 3000 pairs of socks a week. They already produce 3000
pairs of gloves a week and they stock 72 different color shades.
We were shown the “holiest area” which is where the stock of yarn is under lock and key. Entering
into this area was restricted, to say the least. The actual value of the raw materials was also reflected
in their recycling of raw materials, as we were shown an unravelling station where the synthetic yarn
was waste, as opposed to the cashmere which is unraveled and reused. The price for acrylic is £4 pr
kilo, for recycled cashmere the price is £100 pr kilo. They did a super-cool scarf from recycled
cashmere, where all the colors were knitted into a very cool end-result.
The very last thing to be added was the label. As Johnston produces for the high end (Louis Vuitton,
Chanel, Brooks Brothers, Burberry, etc) this was very much at the core of their internal pride. But it
was an interesting exercise that the value comes with the label being added and this is done as the
very last operation (there were security issues involved, of course). As a LV hat retails for £450, while
a very similar design in the same material and made in the same way, retails for £200 (private label);
this is an issue that needs further discussion in the project as the question of worth needs to be lifted
up: Does it attach itself through the quality in the production or through the marketing? It was the
prestige of the outside brands that boosted the pride of the workers, we were told. The fact that it
took 40 minutes to sew on the double C’s (Chanel iconic label) built the “image idea” of iconic
fashion brands vs. provenance. But this alone cannot explain the price difference.
For Johnston, several pros exist for local production (and as we later observed in Edinburgh, this is
essential in their marketing and ownership for Scottishness. They can ensure urgent deliveries within
4 weeks, normal deliveries are 9 weeks. They did, however, experience pressures on the deliveryregime. The very charming engineer, who programs designs, explained that a very complicated
design (type intarsia) would occupy him for a full day. The “handle” (the feel of the end product)
was/is important to the company – only two in the company could (were approved to) judge if the
garments needed to be washed more. The whole system is based on “under-cooking”, then minute
by minute ensuring the “handle” is perfect. This was a hands-on process that could never be
duplicated by industrial processes.
They had a separate apprentice section, where they were making Christmas charity items from socks
that had not passed inspection. They also had a very nice gift shop, and gave tours to visitors. If there
was some sort of set-up from the Tweedbank station to the factory, this would have ensured easier
access for tourists. We asked about their “hidden treasure” approach (an expression that was
repeated several times in the aforementioned movie), and the Director said this is a Scottish mindset.
We then travelled to Hawick Knitwear (pronounced “Hojkk”). We were picked up by Mr Ian Mcleod,
the managing director, and driven to the factory past Barrie Knitwear, an operation now wholly
owned by Chanel, and a source of pride for local cashmere production as this further gives credibility
to the region’s expertise and that the prospects for the industry are looking up. Mr. Mcleod showed
us around their facility which was in many ways similar to the Johnston operation, but also differed in
some aspects. They had some very old machinery and some newer (20%), but the sizing was 100 %
digital – so here they had the very latest technology (at Johnston this was done manually). They also
have apprentices, but these are integrated in the production from the outset of their apprentice
period. Hawick was the first company with an intarsia knitting machine in the UK, which they had
produced the very “Scottish” golf sweater on, for years this machine was in use 24/7 to meet the
demand. However, the pattern was no longer as popular as it had been.
The local water is very soft, which is why the factories are located here. At Hawick we learned more
about the washing of the apparel – how they go through a “simplex” process to stabilize the fibers –
adding an extra chemical making the knitwear tumble-dryable not just machine-washable. (The Aran
British wool sweater was labelled “hand wash only”.) There was some discussion about care – also
later when we were at Hariot Watt University. We were shown the washing machines, with an extra
little hatch installed in order for the workers to be able to feel the wet garments and judge how
much longer they need to be “cooked”. We were told it takes a long time to learn how to judge a wet
garment on its “handle”. Also some customers want cashmere that becomes softer with age, others
want “very soft” and equate that with luxury.
The source of energy is gas, used to be coal – looking at alternative and renewable energy sources.
Reducing waste is a priority and they have a project with Zero Waste Scotland on this. Some of the
waste is sold on to the carpet industry, some of the yarn is reknit if there is still mineral oil in it. The
company used to produce only for Lyle & Scott and was their factory until 15 years ago. The change
into producing for a select group of companies (like Pringles, Brooks Brothers, etc.) and their own
label four years ago, has been a clear strategy. Their raw materials are cashmere, lamb’s wool and
British wool, as well as some merino. Their biggest sellers were classic v-necks and crew-necks in
lamb’s wool. The company employs 180 people, and when the order-books close, they work extra
hours that they take out later, when it is quieter. March is the busiest time, when the fall orders
come in, from October it quiets down. The Scottish knitwear industry used to employ 4000, now it is
down to 1000. Their yarn comes from many sources, but they prefer spinners that are fairly close by
(Todd & Duncan and Z. Hinchliffe & Sons as opposed to Italy or China) “because if we have a
problem, they will come over and fix it”.
Hawick Knitwear were very eager for good labelling rules on Made in Scotland and British Wool, and
were lobbying this strongly with the Scottish Textile and Leather Association. This is because many
companies are misusing this, and are maybe just designed in Scotland and still give the impression
that they are produced in Scotland. The British Wool label is fairly new on garments, and was rather
prominent on the Aran sweater – so not all customers wanted the label. Hawick Knitwear produced
for Marks & Spencer’s Best of British, but they were disappointed in how these products were showcased.
On our way to Heriot Watt University, we stopped in Selkirk, where we saw examples of “secret
crocheting” everywhere. http://mentalfloss.com/us/go/68719
Heriot Watt University was set in the beautiful countryside and had a fantastic locale and access to
superb materials – the closeness to production facilities must be an important potential for the
students and future development for the industry. Our impression was that they were not very
concerned about local raw materials, but this could change. Their new Masters in luxury knit wear
will mainly be linked to cashmere and fine merino, rather than local rare breeds. The school has a
new focus on sustainability and ethics, through their new department head, Dr. Sue Thomas. We
had an interesting discussion surrounding wool, PETA, Savory Institute, Made-By, use-phase, etc. We
also met up again with Angela Cassidy, who we had met at In the Loop conference, who showed us
the wool and cashmere “stash” the students use in their projects. She said that even though the
industry as such is conservative, there is good interaction between the university and the local
industry. As mentioned, their facilities were enviable and Norwegian design schools should visit and
establish some sort of cooperation. (Contact between HiOA and HWU is already established.)
Our travels then went east, through the Tweed valley with a very informative and talkative taxi
driver, to Lanark. Our initial introduction to the Smallholders festival was a reception in the evening
where the guest of honor was the Scottish Minister for the Environment and Climate Change, Dr
Aileen McCloud. She was both very concerned and well-informed when it came to the challenges
related to textiles and was eager for Scotland to contribute to solutions. She held a long and
engaging speech high-lighting wool as a fantastic fiber, how we need to rethink our approach to
value and wardrobes, that there are obstacles that need to be overcome, that the value-chain needs
to be strengthened, and how care needs to be better integrated. “Smallholders are fashion icons!”
Zero Waste Scotland’s Lynn Wilson added and she hoped that people could understand the impact of
their apparel choices through the Love Your Clothes campaign. Both speakers made the Norwegian
visitors feel very welcome, and were encouraging about Norway and Scotland cooperating closer.
Even though there were not many guests at the reception, the time went too quickly and we would
have loved to talk more with the guests – as the discussions were extremely interesting. Ingun
explained the main aims of the Krus project to the Minister, with local and the environment, and
labelling and provenance as main points. Lynn Wilson (Zero Waste Scotland) hosted the event and
made the introductions. She made sure that everyone had a chance to talk, and was responsible for
the very interesting mix of guests.
We finally met Rosemary Champion, who heads the Scottish Smallholder & Grower Festival, and who
had facilitated our visit. Her role is idealistic, and the festival operates on a shoe-string budget. Her
aim was to improve the situation for the producers.
We also met Scottish Textile and Leather Association (STLA) Chief executive, David Breckenridge. We
discussed “Happy Accidents” – and a possible cooperation in the future between Scotland and
Norway – and other possible partner countries. We described our impressions from our visits to the
companies, and he insisted that we should contact him. When it comes to labeling of products, Mr.
Breckenridge will be an important conversation partner.
It was fantastic to meet Di Gilpin again, and we had an interesting discussion on the interest in the
dyeing as opposed to the raw material in Scotland. Di was very eager to find a local spinner to try out
more qualities of yarn, and as we had just met Sue Blacker – The Natural Fibre Company – who has a
spinning mill in Cornwall, and would like to establish a spinning facility in Scotland – so we introduced
the two. We heard Sue speak the following day. Her spinning mill was 10 years old, she has spinning
on demand and spins for sale. She had started the mill, because she had “thought the thought”.
Since her relatives had done it, why couldn’t she? She invited us to visit, and knows Tom Podkolinski,
though she had a slightly different story than we had heard earlier about the Bowmont sheep. A trip
there would be interesting for Selbu and Hillesvåg.
In her talk she mainly explained the relationship between rare breeds, their properties and where
their wool was best used. She gave a lot of advice on what type of breeds were best for what. We
would have liked to learn more about the mill, but will need to get this later. She had had a dehairing
machine, but had sold it, as her experience was that combing the wool was a better and more
effective process. She does both worsted and woolen yarns, which is unusual for a spinning mill. She
also had a stand as part of the fair, where she mainly showed products in order to get new customers
(smallholders). She employs 15 people and handles 30 tons pr year. Her minimum is 20 kilos. She
highlights that the wool should go beyond “smallholding” into the real world and practical use. “Spin
yarn and tell stories” is also part of her philosophy.
Marina Maclean was in the process of establishing a luxury fashion and lifestyle brand (Sword
Maclean) based on rare breeds www.swordmaclean.com. Here one boasts of full tractability from
sheep to shop. Woven textiles and woolen knits (also leathers). The brand will be launched this fall.
The Smallholders festival took place in a new, large agricultural center. Parallel to the many stands,
there was judging of sheep – an impressive amount of breeds that were very different. The biggest
ones were large, there were many horns that gave the sheep an exotic look, and many proud owners
who illustrated Sue’s point that all breed organizations were very clear that their sheep were the
best. All the societies were represented, and had information and products in wool from their
breeds. Not everyone knew that their wool could be spun “locally”. There was also the issue that if
one owns more than 4 sheep in the UK, one is forced to sell the wool to the British Wool Marketing
Board. There are, however, two exceptions. If the wool is sold abroad or if there is some other
“reason”. Well, rare breeds seem to easily fall into “some other reason”, and as Sue explained; a
letter stating why your sheep had such “difficult” wool was enough, and a reason for the increase in
rare breeds. (There are 72 breeds of sheep in the UK, we were told.)
There were two large open rooms with all sorts of stands with varied products from chili and toffee
to rare breed yarn producers. However, compared to a similar Norwegian event, there was
surprisingly little food produce.
In the “selling areas” we met a woman (we didn’t get her name) with knitted sheep decorating her
hat. She worked for an organization promoting rare breeds, which is interesting in itself, as most
breeds also have their own organization.
We talked for a long while with Marjorie McCreadie (Teviotdale Arans), who organized hand-knitters.
The apparel was in different materials, including Scottish yarn from New Lanark Mill, but this was not
labelled specifically as Scottish. However, she liked to engage in conversations about this, as people
would ask where the wool came from. The Scots are price-conscious, foreigners not so much, she
said. Her products varied from traditional knits to small baby-items. Most of her knitters were older,
from mid-50s to pensioners. This was a part-time “hobby”, not a livelihood, and she underlined that
it was a positive past-time for her knitters. Her most expensive item cost £90 (reduced price) the
knitters received manly half of the price (a £46 top she would pay the knitter £26 for the knitting).
She supplied yarn and recipes, her market was mainly fairs and farmers’ markets. No smokers!
Zero Waste Scotland’s stand was mainly on repair and using old blankets etc for new purposes.
Shirley McLauchlan made very beautiful things based on damaged items and used blankets, with
playful embroideries, that she hoped were not “perfect”. Her main work was to encourage
experimentation, etc. We discussed knowledge about care and repair, and how this could possibly be
more systematic. Asking the right questions in research.
We found one yarn based on a breed: Hebridian Wool House. Mainly undyed, in dark hues. Yarns,
sweaters and throws. As opposed to Shetland wool – “her” sheep were not based in the Hebrides,
but the breed wherever it was located, gave name to the wool. She was worried that the dark colors
were not popular, that people wanted colors.
There was also a competition at the fair, where everything from wool and alpaca fleeces to eggs and
cupcakes, competed.
There were a lot of visitors of all ages, and a very friendly atmosphere. We did not observe a lot of
garments in typical woolen clothing or knits on the visitors; some men wore tweeds and one woman
had a nice tweed vest. One wore a tweed six-pence. We saw no nice knitted sweaters, except for on
our new friend Sue. We only observed one person actually knitting (Marjorie). Activities like handspinning, basic knitting (a knitting-café?) etc could perhaps engage the children (and youngsters)
more.
The workshop: 25 people attended, and they were all good listeners and made comments and asked
good questions during the whole session. They were mainly small-holders with rare breeds and
people involved in the value-chain in other ways. We talked about Norwegian wool, the Krus project
and the possibilities of using wool as door-opener for a more sustainable consumption and fashion.
Zero Waste Scotland attended and facilitated the workshop. Some themes initiated discussion, such
as the problems with the blow fly in Scotland and use of dipping, being active outside in Scotland
being a novelty rather than a norm compared to Norway and the expression there is no bad weather,
just bad clothing actually exists in Scotland – but not in England. Our questionnaires were well
received.
Kate Davies Design – we were told – had just launched a yarn made from Scottish wool spun in the
UK (The Haddington Spinners & Weavers). http://www.greatbritishyarns.co.uk/knittingpatterns/single/kate-davies/cat_221.html
New Lanark Mill built in 1785. Situated as beautiful as could be, in a steep green valley with a river
and waterfalls, the stone-buildings for factories, workers, school, etc. now housed a hotel, a youth
hostel, visitor’s center, wool mill and private residences. We only visited the shop and café. The shop
was big and even though some effort was made to separate Scottish wool products and yarns from
the rest of the tourist products, the impression was rather confusing. The New Lanark yarn was
beautiful in its rich colors, but didn’t manage to grab the immediate attention of the visitors, as it
was in the back of the shop. We asked about the new tartan (which we saw on our last trip to
Scotland, and were looking forward to seeing in its final and finished form), but it was not yet
available. As in many cases we admired the quality of the traditional products, but saw few examples
of transferring this in an innovative way. To see it, be there and the walk back to Lanark was worth
taking the time.
We visited a local pub in Lanark; Horse & Jockey. No one there wore local clothing as far as we could
see, aside from some tweed jackets on men. The women wore clothing that was fashion-driven and
disposable. Ingun’s more home-made clothing drew attention, and a switch of dress and cardigan
involved the whole pub and improved the look of the new wearer.
We spent Sunday in Edinburgh walking the Royal Mile and were impressed by the number of shops
selling cashmere and wool products. The same products appeared in the exclusive brand stores and
the tourist shops, and this gave a confusing picture of the market and didn’t help to lift the
exclusiveness of the products. In addition, the exclusive shops also to a degree included cheap tourist
products. This contrasted some of the impression we gained from our tour of the production
facilities. We saw in general little use of the British Wool label, the most important raw material was
lamb’s wool, merino and cashmere. When we finally found something labelled with “British Wool” it
was an Aran sweater in a natural wool-white color. “British wool naturally” was the claim alongside
“origin is everything” and “from British sheep”. However when the label was inspected further we
found the following wording: “Contains not less than 50% British wool”. No throws were made from
British wool, as opposed to in Norway where this is quite usual and a big product category. However,
we saw Harris Tweed in a lot of small, fashion-driven products.
We visited Tartan Weaving Mill & Exhibition Centre close to the castle and across the street from the
whisky center, which consisted of four floors of stores (and an on-site factory) with the similar
products as we had seen in the other stores. An exception was fabric on roll, surplus materials sold
for patch-work and other purposes. The price pr meter for Harris Tweed was £ 60. The shop part was
mixed up with a bit of historic information and “touristy” experience (dressing up in tartans and
being photographed or watching old production equipment in use). A factory with looms was not in
function when we visited, but through windows one could see this on workdays. The entrance
informed us that this was the only working mill in Edinburgh. But all in all – we had learned earlier –
compared to the “whisky experience” across the street – this was rather badly thought through.
In conclusion; the classic “good” clothing is mainly for men, while for women here there were some
fashion items that were actually what we would consider as tacky or a cheap reinterpretation of a
Vivienne Westwood’s ideas. In some of the higher end stores we had seen short tartan skirts for
women and throws/capes that had some sense of classic style. But this did not seem to translate to a
dress code for women locally.
We met many sheep farmers who were concerned about the so-called “rewilding” of Scotland,
where the plan is to reintroduce predators like wolves to Scotland. We were also told that even
though we mainly saw sheep grazing an fenced-in grasslands, certain breeds are – like Norwegian
sheep – sent to graze in more mountainous areas where they are not fenced in.