Here - Accessories Magazine
Transcription
Here - Accessories Magazine
JUNE 2013 $7.50 Retailer of the Year NORDSTROM 2013 RETAILER OF THE YEAR From top: Haider Ackermann; Pantone’s Emerald; Tory Burch’s long necklace; Preen’s python; Milly’s hologram FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2013 | ACCESSORIES 11 12 ACCESSORIES | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR by Lauren Parker M $59.95, in store and online. At press time, Nordstrom Inc. operates 248 stores in 33 states, including 117 full-line stores, 127 Nordstrom Racks, two Jeffrey boutiques, one Treasure & Bond store and one clearance store. Not bad for a Seattle shoe store opened in 1901. Nordstrom is also heavily investing in itself. Its capital investment totaled approximately $2 billion over the past five years and will nearly double to $3.7 billion in the next five, chief financial officer Michael Koppel told analysts on the earnings call. Investments will go to expansions (including Canada and Manhattan), e-commerce and Nordstrom Rack. Despite a lower-than-expected 2013 forecast, total sales growth projections of 4% to 6% and 1Q net sales of 4.8% coming in on the lower end of expectations, many investment analysts are still rating Nordstrom’s stock (NYSE: JWN) a “buy” rating based on Nordstrom’s overall performance. In the recently released 1Q report, same-store sales, including full-line and direct business, increased 3.1%. Top performers were cosmetics, women’s apparel and handbags. Nordstrom truly deserves Accessories Magazine’s 2013 Retailer of the Year Award. Here, a look at the company’s past, present and future. ention Nordstrom and people’s ears perk up—from consumers to accessories vendors to analysts. The Seattle-based retailer was recently named “America’s Favorite Fashion Retailer” in Market Force Information’s 2013 annual consumer study. And not only did Nordstrom rank #16 in Fortune’s 2013 list of the World’s 50 Most Admired Companies, Nordstrom has consistently made both Fortune’s “Best Companies to Work For” and “Most Admired” lists. Nordstrom.com ranked #28 on the Internet Retailer Top 500 for 2013, and, according to app-rater Xtreme Labs, Nordstrom’s mobile app was ranked as the third highest rated retail app on Android devices. Companies can even learn some new trade secrets in the recently published book: “The Nordstrom Way to Customer Service, Second Edition.” But no matter how much companies like working with Nordstrom or how much consumers like shopping there, numbers are everything. And the numbers are good. Nordstrom is coming off a record sales year with $11.8 billion in sales, up by 12.1%. Comp store sales increased 7.3%. While the upscale retailer has held its own, growth at the off-price Nordstrom Rack stores has been even better; seriously contributing to the company’s bottom line. Rack opened 18 stores in 2012, Accessories Magazine salutes Margaret and net sales rose 23%. Fourth quarter comp sales for Myers, EVP/GMM; Andrea Saal, National the Rack were up 7.1%, the largest fourth-quarter Merchandise Manager, Jewelry and increase in six years. And let’s not forget the web. Online sales just topped Watches; Michelle Sample, National $1 billion and that channel is growing faster than Merchandise Manager, Handbags and anything else. While a traditional retailer, Nordstrom is also highly Small Leathergoods; and Lori Marten, progressive. In 2011 it purchased online flash sale site National Merchandise Manager, HauteLook for a deal valued at $270 million, tapping Accessories and Trend; plus the entire into a whole new type of media-savvy, affluent consumer. It also recently invested in online shoe “club” Accessories Buying Team Sole Society, selling the shoes, which retail around HONORING THE TEAM FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2013 | ACCESSORIES 13 RETAILER OF THE YEAR timeline 1887 Sixteen-year-old John W. Nordstrom leaves Sweden for the U.S. with $5 in his pocket and not a word of English. After laboring in mines and logging camps, he heads to Alaska in search of gold. Two years later he returns to Seattle with $13,000. 1901 Nordstrom teams up with Seattle shoemaker Carl F. Wallin—whom he met in Alaska—and opens the store Wallin & Nordstrom on Fourth and Pike in Seattle. The philosophy is all about service, selection, quality and value. 1923 After retail success, the partners add a second store in Seattle’s University District. 1928 John W. Nordstrom retires and sells his share to his sons, Everett and Elmer. Carl Wallin retires soon after and sells his interest to the Nordstrom sons. 14 ACCESSORIES 1933 A third son, Lloyd, joins the team and in the following years the Nordstroms build the company into the largest independent shoe chain in the nation—eight Nordstrom shoe stores in Washington and Oregon, and 13 leased shoe departments in Washington, Oregon and California. The downtown Seattle store becomes the largest shoe store in the country. 1963 Nordstrom buys Seattle-based clothing store Best Apparel, which has an outlet in Seattle and another at Lloyd Center in Portland, Ore. Elmer, Everett and Lloyd immediately began modernizing Best Apparel and run it along with established Nordstrom shoe stores. 1965 They open a new Best Apparel location adjacent to their shoe store at Northgate Mall in Seattle. The following January, the company purchases a Portland fashion retailer, Nicholas Ungar. They merge this store with the existing shoe store in downtown Portland, renaming it Nordstrom Best. 1966 1973 1968 1975-78 A new Nordstrom Best opens in Tacoma, Wash., followed by the opening of a newly remodeled Nordstrom Best in Bellevue, Wash., in November of 1967. Everett, the eldest brother, turns 65 years old and company control is turned over to the family’s third generation, resulting in a leadership team consisting of Everett’s son Bruce, Elmer’s sons James and John, Lloyd’s son-inlaw Jack McMillan, and family friend Bob Bender. The third generation continues to run the company with its initial philosophy. 1971 Nordstrom goes public, offering Nordstrom Best stock. 1973 The first Nordstrom Rack opens in the basement of the Seattle store as a clearance center for fullline store merchandise. Today, Nordstrom Rack has grown to 127 stores in 30 states, offering ontrend clothing, shoes and accessories at 30% to 70% off regular retail prices. | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM Sales surpass $100 million and Nordstrom is recognized as the West Coast’s largest volume fashion specialty store. That same year, the company is renamed Nordstrom, Inc. Nordstrom purchases three stores in Alaska. In 1978, Nordstrom enters the highly competitive California market with the opening of the South Coast Plaza Nordstrom in Orange County. This store lays the groundwork for rapid expansion into other cities throughout California. 1988-91 Nordstrom opens its first East Coast location at Tysons Corner in McLean, Va., and in 1990, the company opens a store in Paramus, N.J. In 1991, a new Nordstrom opens just outside of Chicago at Oakbrook Center in Oak Brook, Ill., and expansion continues across the U.S. throughout the 1990s and into the next decade. 1995 The third generation of Nordstrom family members retire as cochairmen, but retain their positions on the Board of Directors. RETAILER OF THE YEAR 1998 2009 2000 2010 Nordstrom.com launches. By 2009, Nordstrom implements industry-leading inventory management and order fulfillment capabilities to offer seamless shopping both online and in-store. Nordstrom acquires Façonnable, S.A.S., high-quality men’s and women’s apparel and accessories that had been sold exclusively in the U.S. at Nordstrom stores and Nordstrom-operated Façonnable boutiques since 1989. 2005 Nordstrom purchases a majority interest in specialty store Jeffrey. The two stores are located in Atlanta’s Phipps Plaza and Manhattan’s Meatpacking District. In 2007, Nordstrom completes its investment and creator Jeffrey Kalinsky takes on a greater leadership role as executive vice president of designer merchandising at Nordstrom while remaining president and CEO of Jeffrey. Nordstrom’s customer service is legendary, and there’s 2006 an oft-used phrase that companies want to 2007 be “the Nordstrom of their industry.” Bruce Nordstrom retires from his position as chairman of the Board. Today, president Blake Nordstrom and brothers Pete Nordstrom, president of merchandising, and Erik Nordstrom, president of stores, manage the company along with the executive team. Nordstrom sells Façonnable and discontinues operating Façonnable boutiques in the U.S. and Europe. 16 ACCESSORIES Nordstrom begins shipping orders abroad and currently serves 95 countries online. In subsequent years, Nordstrom enhances its website’s features and functionality, introduces mobile shopping apps, and launches everyday free shipping and free returns within the US. Nordstrom purchases a minority stake in kidswear brand Peek…Aren’t You Curious, and becomes the exclusive retail partner for the brand beyond its own stores and website. 2010 Nordstrom Rack opens in Union Square, New York—a first for Manhattan. 2011 Nordstrom purchases HauteLook, a leader in the online private sale marketplace. Headquartered in Los Angeles, HauteLook offers customers exclusive access to limited-time sale events on top fashion and lifestyle brands. Nordstrom also makes investments in Sole Society, a shoe membership website founded and later spun off by HauteLook, as well as Bonobos, a rapidly growing menswear brand that was first launched online. 2011 Nordstrom opens independent boutique Treasure & Bond in New York’s Soho neighborhood. The concept shop donates 100% of its profits benefitting New York City non-profits. 2012 Nordstrom becomes the only large U.S. retailer to sell a broad assortment of the British fashion brands Topshop and Topman instore and online. | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM 2012 Nordstrom achieves record net sales of $11.8 billion. The company announces more full-line stores in new and existing markets, and remodels and updates to existing stores. It also begins to increase the number of Rack stores, with 230 Nordstrom Racks projected by 2016. At the same time, the company is accelerating online growth—investing and innovating in e-commerce, mobile and putting technology in front of the customer faster. 2012 Nordstrom’s online sales reach $1 billion and dot-com remains the fastest-growing segment of the business. 2013 Nordstrom operates a total of 248 stores located in 33 states, with 117 full-line stores, 127 Nordstrom Racks, two Jeffrey boutiques, one Treasure & Bond store and one clearance store. By the end of 2013, Nordstrom will have relocated one full-line store, opened 22 new Racks and relocated two Rack stores. 2013 Nordstrom teams up with artisan website Etsy to create a wholesale marketplace. 2013 Nordstrom goes after fast-fashion to revamp its Savvy department, bringing in lower prices and moving higher-priced brands to other existing departments. 2014+ Nordstrom has announced plans to open its first full-line stores in Canada beginning in 2014 and is exploring additional store opportunities as part of its future expansion into Canada. The first Manhattan store is slated to open in 2018. RETAILER OF THE YEAR HIGH-LOWAPPROACH Nordstrom is growing in two directions—more luxury merchandise and affordable fast-fashion—appealing to a widening customer base on many levels F rom $49.95 Sole Society Shoes to fast-fashion Topshop accessories to expanded off-price Rack stores, it’s tempting to think Nordstrom is shifting downward but that’s far from true. The luxury retailer is expanding outward, layering on new strategies to attract additional consumers. “We have been excited about the growth of our Designer presence at Nordstrom—such as Lanvin, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Proenza Schouler, Jimmy Choo, Chloe, Fendi, Gucci, Prada, to name a few,” says EVP/GMM Margaret Myers. “This growth of business in the best merchandise the world has to offer is continuing. Clearly our Nordstrom customers want us to continue to grow this offering. What we care about most is our relevance to our customers. That obsession is how we as curators of the assortment actually deliver customer service. What it takes to be relevant is constantly changing, but our drive to be relevant to our customers with our offering never does.” At the same time, Nordstrom is responding to how customers love to shop high and low in price point. “Those barriers of strict conformity are completely broken down. This has motivated us to be clear about a balance of prices in all categories. A few years ago, for example, this led us to expand our Trend Accessories offer in some stores in locations other than the Mainfloor, and to define this department more clearly with accessible price points.This department is positioned for easy access on our apparel floors and puts a strong offer of fast fashion within a couple of steps of apparel. While many department stores put private-label merchandise in their 18 ACCESSORIES trend departments, Nordstrom is extremely committed to brands. In addition to its mainfloor department, which focuses on designer brands by classification, Nordstrom has developed a vibrant Trend Accessories Department on another floor. This serves as an additional outpost for accessories grouped by trends. Everything is touchable, accessible and in easy-to-understand groupings. “Our buyers are obsessed with selecting what customers will love. We think about this and act on it constantly,” says Myers. “Our best partnerships with suppliers are created when we share our insights with them and fully collaborate on curating an offer that is irresistible. We are very grateful for this open-to-listen attitude from the brands we support.” VENDOR ACCOLADES “WE SELL ANNE KLEIN AND VINCE CAMUTO WATCHES TO NORDSTROM and have found them to be more focused than other retailers. As a leader in fashion, they dictate key trends. They focus on true fashion trend-right elements | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR and because they’re such a leader in that type of retailing, they help to create trends. The consumer goes there to see what’s new. In trends, rose gold and gunmetal are rolling into spring, while another hot trend is stackable jewelry wrist action (whether from sets of watches and bangles sold together, or wrapped leather watches with chains that add to the appearance of numerous stacked elements). Glitz and stones—in a more fine-jewelry, micro-pavé, baguette way—are also doing well. Other hot trends are pyramid studs, black-and-gold, and rose gold, which is inspired by the fine industry but looks great on fashion watches.” —MICHAEL FEAGAN, SVP, E. GLUCK CORP “NORDSTROM WAS HOBO’S FIRST DEPARTMENT STORE and was instrumental in putting us on the map. They were the first major retailer to identify our Lauren wallet and put it into their assortment and they’re actually doing a designated Holiday 2013 presentation for their 10th Anniversary of carrying our Lauren wallet/clutch. They’re always very supportive of their brands. They also take fashion risks. While other retailers purchase more classic assortments, they buy our prints and colors in bolder assortments, and sell them better than other retailers too. They always represent the brand perfectly and Hobo can always count on them to support our presentation with a bold show of color and prints.” Anne Klein watches make time for rose gold —KOREN RAY, CO-FOUNDER, HOBO “NORDSTROM UNDERSTANDS THE NEED TO BE ON-TREND and the relationship with the customer is very important to their success. They are very good at messaging to customers about importance of trends and directing their audience to what is exactly fashion right. Nordstrom is confident in their ability to recognize the potential power of even emerging brands. They were the first retail partner to invest heavily into both the Michele and Michael Kors watch brands. In addition to fashion aspects, watches require expertise in both the initial selling and after-sales servicing, from sizing to helping the consumer understand all the features of the watch. Nordstrom has sales associates who take that extra crucial step to make sure the customer stays happy with a watch purchase. This builds a loyal customer for both Nordstrom and the brands. Nordstrom recognized that two-tone would be very strong during one of the gift-giving seasons. We developed a two-tone story for Kors that exploded and now they’re consistently among the best sellers. This summer for Diesel it’s about gold, for Marc by Marc Jacobs and Kors color, gold and rose gold are key. For Fossil, summer white and a bright color palette. Overall white and neutrals are important across all brands. Nordstrom also recognized that their customers desired glitz and strongly encouraged our brand Marc by Marc Jacobs to add crystal embellishment options to capitalize on this potential. Since then, these styles quickly became a great part of the watch business. —DORA YARID, REGIONAL VP OF SALES, FOSSIL Hobo’s Lauren clutch “WE SELL HAIR ACCESSORIES, JEWELRY, EVENING BAGS AND BELTS TO NORDSTROM under the brands Tasha, Natasha and Natasha Couture. They’ve always had a big commitment to hair accessories and it’s paid off. They’ve built a hair business with their customers and they 20 ACCESSORIES | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR do a great job because their presentation is really good. The way they display is understandable and they sell with presentation and demonstration. They’re so great at sales service and the sales associates help and show the customers how to wear hair accessories. They built a business with us and they believe in us and the product. We’re in the trend department and the mainfloor department. In jewelry, both fashion and trend, for spring the hottest for us has been leather wrap bracelets that snap, with spikes, studding or links, sometimes wrapped with chains. In scarves, infinity scarves have been so successful because they just know how to sell it! In hair accessories, ponies— elastics with leopard prints, stones or stripes—as well as headwraps have been key.” —RAVIE SINGH, PRESIDENT, NATASHA “THE JEWELRY TEAM AT NORDSTROM IS TOP NOTCH. Professionally planning and operating quickly, Margaret, Andrea and the team always partner with us to provide the Nordstrom customer the hottest jewelry trends. This year is no exception, as they launched into Nadri Sterling with confidence. Always focusing on customers and what can sell, they consistently outpace the turnover equation, while continuing to grow revenue. They are leaders in the marketplace in trends, presentation and creating new ways to ‘speak to the customer’ about lifestyle, and how the new jewelry trends can adapt. Online, in print catalogs and now using digital media, they are leadership. We embrace all vehicles with them. Though we are largely a stonefocused company, Nadri always works in tandem with the Nordstrom jewelry team to create new avenues, utilize our company expertise and expand. Thank you, Nordstrom, for continuing to push our envelope.” Mirror metallic shoes —J. GREGORY BRANNAN, EVP, CMO, NADRI “NORDSTROM HAS A DEDICATED ‘SUN’ TEAM UNLIKE OTHER DEPARTMENT STORES. The team is extremely knowledgeable about the field and each member has a great eye for fashion. Nordstrom’s team is always willing to try different brands and styles. The team gives insight into the development of new product as they have a strong grasp on the customers’ likes and dislikes. The buying team stays true to the notion of having the customer always come first. Recently, the team made a very positive addition to their online sales, adding Tom Ford optical frames to the platform (we also sell them Roberto Cavalli and Tod’s). Currently, we are placing an ad for their online platform and this past March, Marcolin was a part of their print mailer with a feature on the new color-way we presented for the Tom Ford ‘Raquel’ sun style. Styles that feature polarized lenses have been extremely successful for Nordstrom and we are working to broaden our offering. We recently contributed to signage that they are creating that is dedicated to the polarized lens category.” —MARCOLIN Tory Burch handbag 22 ACCESSORIES “I HAVE BEEN WORKING WITH NORDSTROM SINCE I BEGAN MY CAREER and they are a terrific partner and retailer. We work with Nordstrom Rack as well and they’re also a good partner with a strong business strategy. The breadth of the product offering is very strong at Nordstrom. They have a great merchandising team and they offer a personal shopping experience that highlights head-to-toe dressing for | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR “NORDSTROM IS TRULY AN AMAZING RETAIL PARTNER and a real pleasure to do business with, from management to the buying teams. We appreciate that they are educated about the market, and knowledgeable about our products and the segmentation of the business — they know exactly where each brand will perform best.” —GENNIE MURPHY, SVP SALES, UNITED LEGWEAR “NORDSTROM HAS AN EXTREMELY PROFESSIONAL AND EXPERIENCED BUYING/MERCHANDISING TEAM that is always Kate Spade sun hat adds chic whimsy looking for newness and the next trend. At the the same time, they never forget who their customer is. Their vision and true love of product keep all their departments looking fresh each season. They have integrity, are collaborative, love product, merchandise it well and have sales associates who care about the product and their customers. They know their customer intimately so they seek out product that addresses their customers’ needs. Their [fashion accessories] department looks better and better all the time. They spend great efforts in choosing the right merchandise for their customer, and presenting it in a fresh, modern and exciting way. They frequently advertise our products in their books; visuals and imagery are very strong, and their customers respond to their messaging. They also feature our product in their Trend Shop which gives our brand great additional exposure. We also have trunk shows and make personal appearances there. All our styles in the stores are also sold online, which provides a seamless shopping experience for their customers. It’s been a win. We are experiencing exciting growth with our Nordstrom online business. Nordstrom has been an exceptional Echo partner for the 50 years, since they began carrying accessories. Each season, they jump on key items and trends. In addition to scarves and wraps, they have featured our Sherpa vest, Echo Touch gloves, and infinity rings, and all have been incredibly strong performers. Their team is amazing, appreciative of good design and beautiful product, and they are a pleasure to work with.” —LYNN ROBERTS, VP COMMUNICATIONS, ECHO Nordstrom is highly committed to hair accessories everyone. Their commitment to excellent customer service allows them to offer the customer a positive retail experience. Nordstrom’s commitment to the customer underscores the entire experience when you walk in to shop. Their sales team takes the time to learn about their customer’s preferences and engage with them both instore and online. The personal shopping definitely helps the customer gain awareness of the trends across a variety of categories and also allows the customer to figure out how to wear the trends in different ways to create versatility in their wardrobe. Their approach to the buying process and to the teams is very 360 and they think strategically about brand launches, marketing and their customer. Everything has to be connected in order to tell the brand story and I think they do an exceptional job with their brands. I’m looking forward to their New York City flagship when it opens.” “WE’VE BEEN SELLING NORDSTROM FOR 18 YEARS and they’re great partners because they have a great eye and know their customer. They are innovative, know what they want and have great vision. From details in merchandising and advertising, they are consistent in who they are. They’re known for outstanding service and they are practically one of the few small specialty stores that actually always have help at their counters. For spring, our hottest jewelry trends have been glamour jewels with gem colors. We also sell to Nordstrom Rack, which also has great vision, product and prices. We make our product in the USA and we are able to sell to them, they are smart and have a fair mark up, they want it to move quickly and they don’t play the game of marking up 4-5 times and then putting the product on sale for 50% off! Nordstrom understands what it is to give customer service, and they have earned the loyalty of many. In today’s world it is about it being convenient and easy to make a purchase transaction in a short amount of time.” —VINCE CAMUTO, FOUNDER & CEO, CAMUTO GROUP —LIZ PALACIOS, LIZ PALACIOS 24 ACCESSORIES | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR SPRING FASHION HIGHLIGHTS 26 ACCESSORIES | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR COLLABORATIONS & PARTNERSHIPS To set itself apart from other retailers selling national designer brands, Nordstrom has stepped aggressively into fashion’s brave new world of exclusives, collaborations, pop-ups and capsules Two cool and hip looks from the Topshop collection N ordstrom has gotten aggressive with its partnerships, investing in or teaming up with businesses that can enhance the bricks-and-mortar stores, its e-commerce site and its mobile business. The fact that it invests so readily in new platforms has been one of its defining factors. “Strategic partnerships and investments including Topshop, Bonobos, Sole Society and Hautelook, are formed so that we can be more relevant, learn and develop better capabilities,” says a Nordstrom spokesperson. “We’re also continuing to explore great new partnerships,” says EVP/GMM Margaret Myers. “We have been 28 ACCESSORIES nurturing our partnership with Etsy to support design talent in our At Home department. We expect this will expand over time to our mainfloor categories. This additional accessories offer has also been successful. All of this speaks to our customers’ desire for accessible fashion.” Creating the biggest in-store buzz was the Topshop partnership, which kicked into gear September 2012. While Topshop and Topman have flagship stores in New York, Chicago, Las Vegas and Los Angeles, not to mention their own U.S. designated websites Topshop.com and Topman.com, the partnership allowed Nordstrom to position itself as edgy and on the pulse of what’s happening with international fast fashion. Nordstrom is the only large U.S. retailer to sell a broad assortment of the trendy British fashion brands’ merchandise in-store and online at Nordstrom.com “I believe Topshop and Topman offer the Nordstrom customer something very different and unique with our signature British fashion authority,” says Topshop’s Sir Philip Green. “With new pieces being delivered from our design team on pretty much a weekly basis, the ability to buy fresh, must-have looks every time a customer visits is key to our brands’ point of difference. I admire what Pete [Nordstrom] and his team do at Nordstrom and I look forward to working with them to create an exciting and dynamic retail partnership.” The Nordstrom partnership, however, isn’t a flash-in-the-pan experiment, but rather a longstanding commitment that is helping to expand the definition of the Nordstrom brand. Topshop is the only high street brand to show at London Fashion Week (LFW), and has recently celebrated 10 years of sponsoring New Gen – supporting young British designers and giving them a platform to show within LFW and promote their collections to the international press. Topshop has 319 stores in the UK, with a further 137 international franchises operating in 37 countries. “Topshop and Topman are internationally renowned leaders in fashion and we are thrilled to start a relationship with them that we hope will grow and prosper over the years,” says Pete Nordstrom, president of merchandising for Nordstrom, Inc. “[Our] customers are going to love their take on trendled fashion at great prices.” Some stores have fully built-out Topshop merchandise folded into the Savvy department merchandise mix, and its success taught Nordstrom a lot about moving fast and accommodating new merchandise almost daily. | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR HAUTE LOOK & SOLE SOCIETY Nordstrom’s foray into online flash sales and shoe fashion “clubs” has added a whole new tier of retail. HauteLook, which Nordstrom bought in a deal valued at $270 million, taps into the exciting world of flash sales, where women race to purchase discounted designer items online before they sell out. The site remains as HauteLook.com although a keyword search on Nordstrom.com will bring consumers there. Sole Society was created by Nordstrom-owned HauteLook and became an independent entity in December 2011, with funding from a number of investors including Nordstrom, Inc., Insight Venture Partners and Lagovent Ventures. Nordstrom recently threw some financial muscle behind Sole Society to further develop it. Nordstrom did this with HauteLook cofounder Brett Markinson and shoe heavyweight Camuto Group. While consumers must “join” the club on Solesociety.com, consumers can purchase Sole Society shoes directly from select Nordstrom stores and online at Nordstrom.com. The pairing is mutually beneficial, as consumers can now buy Sole Society shoes in a traditional retail setting, and Actress and dancer Julianne Hough and her Sole Society collection Nordstrom consumers can tap into Sole Society extras like styling tips and photos by its Fashion Insiders. This past February, Sole Society launched its first celebrity capsule collection—with actress, singer and dancer Julianne Hough. She will introduce five to six styles per month for six months, starting at $49.95. According to reports, the day the Sole Society brand launched on Nordstrom.com, SoleSociety.com saw a 1,000% spike in traffic. Another collaboration was the launch of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund boutique, which launched February 11, 2013 in six locations nationwide (Seattle, San Francisco, New York, Los Angeles, Chicago and Dallas). With the exception of New York, where the boutique will reside in the Treasure & Bond store, all in-store boutiques are in Nordstrom Designer Departments. All 2012 finalists—A.L.C., Assembly New York, Jennifer Fisher Jewelry, Illesteva, Wes Gordon, Suno, Giulietta, runners-up Tabitha Simmons and Jennifer Meyer—and winner The Elder Statesman, have merchandise represented. Treasure & Bond sells its CFDA/VOGUE Fashion Fund Collection 30 ACCESSORIES | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR EXPANSIONS Nordstrom is moving on up… and out-and-about… and expanding its off-price territory NORDSTROM RACK This off-price sector of the company is racking up sales… big time Y ou don’t get to be America’s Favorite Fashion Retailer without a major presence. And at today’s count of 117 fullline Nordstrom and 127 Nordstrom Rack stores, the retailer has been opening at an impressive clip around the country, and Puerto Rico and Canada are up next (these areas have been announced, but aren’t open yet). In the past five years, Nordstrom opened 18 new full-line stores. From 2013 to 2018, 13 more are planned. Nordstrom also has plans to span international borders with its firsttime push into Canada. And New Yorkers cheered big-time when Nordstrom recently announced the end of its “two-decade search” for the right Manhattan location, even if they won’t break ground for five years. While 2018 might seem like a long time to wait for America’s Favorite Fashion Retailer to hit The Big Apple, New Yorkers can get their Nordstrom shopping fix at Nordstrom Rack in Union Square or the edgy affiliate concept store Treasure & Bond in Soho. Both illustrate ways Nordstrom is expanding its positioning strategy to reach new target markets. First stop: Canada. Nordstrom is planning five new full-line Canadian stores between 2014 and 2016; one each in Calgary, Vancouver, Ottowa and two in Toronto. The largest location will be in Vancouver, where, at about 230,000 square feet, the three-level store will be bigger than a WalMart supercenter, according to reports. “This is a significant milestone for this company,” said Blake Nordstrom, president of Nordstrom Inc., during a recent press conference. “We are very excited about this opportunity to be part of the country.” But while Canadian customers speak English and reside adjacent to our own borders, Nordstrom conceded there will be a learning curve. “We are the new kids on the block, and there’s a lot to learn,” he added. “There are cultural differences.” Nordstrom’s foray north will be in good company. Retailers like J. Crew, Topshop, Anthropologie, Express, Tory Burch, Ann Taylor, Loft and Target have either recently opened stores in Canada or are planning some soon. Nordstrom also noted that the retailer has 15,000 credit card customers from Canada to date, and envisions Nordstrom operating as many as nine Canadian stores. But if full-line store openings are making news, Nordstrom Rack expansions are stealing the headlines. 32 ACCESSORIES Growing at a faster rate than full-line stores, the company’s 127 offprice Nordstrom Rack stores are the shining stars. In recently released 1Q 2013 news, Nordstrom Rack net sales increased $58 million, or 10%, compared with the same period in fiscal 2012, reflecting 16 new store openings since the first quarter of fiscal 2012. Same-store sales increased 0.8% for the Rack on top of last year’s same-store sales increase of 6.8%. When looking at the numbers, not only does Nordstrom Rack have more stores, but the company is opening them faster than full-line Nordstrom doors as well. This year, Nordstrom plans to relocate one full-line Nordstrom department store and to open 24 Rack stores (two of which are relocated Racks), according to its financial statement. Six more Racks have been announced for 2014. | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR Nordstrom Rack hails itself as a treasure hunt destination That underscores a larger strategy for the luxury retailer, which is closely eyeing its fast-fashion and off-price successes and assessing how to maximize them in its future expansion push. Why is a luxury retailer showing such great growth in its off-price division? Because consumers who want high-end merchandise have shown they still have a strong affinity for a bargain, even if they have to hunt a bit for it. In fact, that could be part of the fun. The Nordstrom brand also carries considerable cache, and as investor newsletter “The Motley Fool” recently noted in a report, weakened competitor JCPenney could boost Rack sales even further. Nordstrom Rack offers many of the same brands carried in Nordstrom stores with most at savings of 30% to 70% off. Rack stores are designed to be self-service with merchandise organized to make it easy for customers to shop. Additionally, Nordstrom Rack offers merchandise transferred from Nordstrom full-line stores. While the merchandise mix changes with every new truck arrival, the retailer strives to keep two things constant: incredibly low prices on great brands and Nordstrom’s high level of customer service. Because of the long-standing relationships Nordstrom has with top brands, Nordstrom Rack can offer special items from these brands at exceptional prices. Customers can also find overstock items, closeouts and end-of-season merchandise from many of these same vendors. “The Rack provides us a unique opportunity to connect with consumers who shop the Nordstrom Stores and also shop the Nordstrom Rack stores,” says Dora Yarid, regional VP of sales at Fossil, a brand that sells both stores. “So the brand loyalty built by the consumer’s experience in the Main Stores transfers to the Rack.” Nordstrom operates 127 Rack stores in 30 states. By geographical area, there are 19 stores in the Northwest (CO, ID, OR, UT, WA); 40 stores in the Southwest (AZ, CA, HI, NV); 40 stores in the Central States/South (AL, FL, GA, IL, IN, KS, MI , MN, MO, OH, TX); and 26 stores on the East Coast (CT, DC, MA, MD, ME, NC, NJ, NY, PA, RI, VA). 34 ACCESSORIES In-store signs acknowledge that the hunt is half the fun | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR A loft-like setting and funky displays add to the unique ambience TREASURE & BOND A charitable model under an ‘alias’ gives Nordstrom inroads into New York City with a different angle While Nordstrom has desired to open its own full-line department store in Manhattan for years, the closest the Seattle-based retailer has come is opening an off-price Nordstrom Rack on Union Square. And when it did open a store, it didn’t exactly carry the Nordstrom nameplate. Treasure & Bond, which opened in 2011 in Soho, is unlike anything else under the Nordstrom umbrella. The 11,137 square-foot-store, located at 350 West Broadway, gives no hints to its Nordstrom connection. The concept shop is focused on an entirely different model—charity and edgy, often emerging, designers. Pete Nordstrom, president of merchandising for Nordstrom Inc., said Treasure & Bond’s inventory, which included 150 brands on opening day from gift and home goods to women’s, men’s and children’s apparel, is all “curated from resources all over the globe,” with 100% of the proceeds going to New York City charities. The company said Treasure & Bond’s concept came from an idea Vogue editor Anna Wintour and the New York philanthropist Catherine Marron came up with. In keeping with its nonprofit nature, many of the fixtures and materials are reused from other Nordstrom stores. Proceeds benefit charities that help New York children, such as The Edible Schoolyard NYC, The Achievement Gap Project, and the Association to Benefit Children (ABC). After the first year, selected beneficiaries will come from shoppers’ selections. At press time, there was a Rebecca Minkoff pop-up shop featured in the window, drawing in customers looking for a big-name brand. Inside, accessories are grouped by theme (i.e. ethnic-inspired straw hats and bags like minaudieres by Kotur or hand-woven Banago totes from the 36 ACCESSORIES Philippines. Jewelry is edgy and eclectic, from designers like Gemma Redux or Fallon. Home accessories have a strong presence too, from beautiful candles to elegant couch pillows. A lively blog keeps consumers connected to the stories behind the brands, such as Isaro by Jill Golden and her recent partnership with Indego Africa and a women’s cooperative in Rwanda. “The designs are mine, which adds a modern twist to the traditional African craftsmanship of the piece,” says Golden, who notes that each piece is sold in a pouch of traditional waxed fabric, and the Rwandan woman who made the piece signs it to help tell the story. “I love Treasure & Bond,” adds Golden. “And it’s really well merchandised with such interesting brands. Plus, the fact that all proceeds go to charity is such an amazing concept. I recently held a training session for the staff and they were really interested in the Isaro story—we spent a while talking about the women and my trip to Rwanda. They were very excited to pass on the information to their clients. It is my hope that Treasure & Bond customers come to the collection for the design, but when they hear about the Fair Labor component, it makes them want it even more.” Other lines introduce international artisans as well, like Japanese bag and accessories maker Seisuke88, whose printed patterns on their gamaguchi cosmetics and accessories wallets are inspired by the artists of Nishijin, Kyoto and their painted designs, dating back over 150 years. Since the concept is non-traditional, much of the merchandise gives the retailer the chance to be more scrappy and nimble, according to Nordstrom, who added that some merchandise is one-of-a-kind and often the work of emerging designers. | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR SAVVY GOES FAST-FASHION A Savvy department revamp is helping Nordstrom court a new customer L ike all smart retailers, Nordstrom is moving ahead with the times. And that means courting a customer who is into fastmoving trends and likes to spend often (albeit not a lot). In a savvy move, Nordstrom had already named its trend department Savvy, but in another savvy move, it recently revamped it to include less expensive, edgier clothing and accessories. The revamp was done after the Trend Accessories Departments were introduced, so this is one more layer on the trend theme, here done with apparel and accessories. Now, all 117 of Nordstrom’s full-scale stores have a new Savvy 38 ACCESSORIES department, which brings in new merchandise almost daily, echoing a formula from other low-priced, fast-fashion retailers. To make sure its luxury consumers remain happy, Nordstrom didn’t drop higher-end labels such as DVF, Rebecca Minkoff, Haute Hippie and Marc by Marc Jacobs, but rather moved them out of Savvy and into other departments. This opened up space for new affordable brands like MinkPink, ASTR, Mural and Vena Cava’s diffusion line Viva Vena. Now in Savvy, mostly everything is priced from $19 to $98. Before, everything was over $100. Accessories mingle with apparel, like on boldly accessorized mannequins. At the downtown Seattle Nordstrom, | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR this is the caption for the above photo for example, $18 woven-leather bracelets and under $40 earring-andnecklace sets are placed around $36 tops or $78 “boyfriend jackets.” “One of the things that we heard from our customers for a number of years is, ‘Boy, the stuff we love we can’t afford, and the stuff we can afford we don’t like too much,’” said Nordstrom chief financial officer Mike Koppel at a recent investors’ conference. “We felt that we had an opportunity to have better product that was more accessible.” While the Savvy revamp came after the successful collaboration with 40 ACCESSORIES British fast-fashion retailer Topshop, the idea actually came first. However, Topshop’s success taught Nordstrom a lot about fast-fashion and how to accommodate merchandise on an almost daily basis. The Nordstrom website recently launched the “premiere issue” of The Savvy Mag, featuring various trends and snapshots. Banking on the fact that web consumers still love the “idea” of a magazine, even if it’s no longer paper, the company produced a shoppable magazine with the trends clearly spelled out. | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR JUNIORS Nordstrom knows how to talk to teens—through music, photo-heavy blogs and lots of DIY tips W hile Nordstrom has stepped up its Trend Accessories departments, targeting accessoriessavvy women of all ages, the stores’ designated junior areas have plenty of trend accessories in their own right. BP., as the junior department is called at the company, knows what teens love and that’s definitely accessories. The department has tons of accessories, neatly grouped into itemy-trends (infinity scarves, fedora hats, plastic sunglasses and tons of jewelry). A recent store visit showed a Southwest vibe, with lots of self-assured mannequin attitude. On the BP. section of Nordstrom.com, You Tube clips show key looks in video, like sunglasses and short shorts in action at a skateboard park. This helps the consumer envision the items in their everyday life. But BP. doesn’t just show the trends to consumers at the store, it engages them where they play as well. At the recent Coachella festival in California, BP. teamed up with FOAM Magazine and clothing brand Mimi Chica for a major desert party (complete with inflatable pool floaties that looked like iced doughnuts). It was blogged on the site, naturally, with links to some cool Nordstrom items purchased for the trip, like round sunglasses by Fantas-Eyes, retailing at just $12. Naturally, BP. has a very dynamic blog, updated almost daily by BP fashion board members. While the BP. Fashion Blog certainly offers consumers the opportunity to purchase items on Nordstrom.com that are blogged about, it’s not as overt as that. The idea is to entice, educate and engage an increasingly media-savvy target market. One feature on vintage shopping in mom’s (and grandma’s) closet yielded a treasure trove of vintage bags. And while the link to Dooney & Bourke bags at Nordstrom referenced the vintage Dooney bag shown in the Instagram photo, those particular bags weren’t even for sale. The idea was to introduce the brand in a creative way. The site also knows how to engage its media-savvy customers. The BP. Fashion Blog has articles written by customers, such as “Adventures as a Sophomore Slave,” where the writer blogged all about her school’s 42 ACCESSORIES prom, complete with photos of her classmates and commentary on their fashion and accessories (i.e. cobalt blue; tiaras). There are also lots of DIY features, which teach BP consumers how to do things like efficiently (and fashionably) store their sunglasses. The article is a step-by-step outline to fashioning a stylish sunglass holder, with the subtle message that one would need to buy sunglasses soon (hint, hint) to fill it up. And Brass Plum knows that juniors are watching the fashion shows more than ever before, so one blog post featured bows as a hot off-therunway item, complete with options and ideas on how to wear them. To really appeal to teen-obsessed fashionistas-to-be, BP. also has a Fashion Board for fashion-savvy and fashion-inquisitive high school students. Applicants interview at their local store, and once chosen, form a group that meets once a month after school to learn about and network within the fashion industry. Fashion insiders at the store and industry experts offer the ins and outs on trends, careers, styling and more. | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR E-COMMERCE & MOBILE For a large, traditional retailer, Nordstrom.com thinks, moves and acts progressively and aggressively, from its website to its mobile apps Left: Nordstrom’s iPad icon. Right: a screen shot from the iPad app. N ordstrom Direct operates nordstrom.com, the company’s mobile shopping apps and Nordstrom catalogs. Nordstrom.com currently serves customers in 95 countries and offers everyday free shipping and free returns within the US. Direct sales, which is virtually all online, is on fire at Nordstrom and a huge part of Nordstrom’s strategy moving forward. “E-commerce is the fastest-growing channel and it is expanding our reach to existing and new customers. We see substantial opportunities for outsized growth to continue as we further improve the online customer experience,” says president Blake Nordstrom in a year-end earnings call to analysts. Online sales are a huge part of the company’s overall strategy and indeed are outpacing store results. “We are an e-commerce leader in fashion retail,” says Margaret Myers, EVP/GMM. “We’ve made big strides in growing our online selection and service capabilities. And unlike some retailers that employ a separate buying and merchandising staff for in-store and online businesses, 44 ACCESSORIES Nordstrom uses the same team for a seamless shopping experience. Nordstrom has also expanded its online offerings by 50%, according to the firm, putting the online merchandise on par with what’s in-store. Meanwhile, online sales are booming (surpassing $1 billion last year, buoyed by impressive investments in online and mobile ). Nordstrom also remains tech savvy and aware of shifts in consumer behavior. As mentioned earlier, in 2011, it became the first mainstream retailer to purchase an online flash-sale company. Overall sales grew by 12.1% year-over-year with e-commerce achieving an impressive 37% growth. Nordstrom also ranked #28 in the Internet Retailer Top 500 for 2013. “Over the last few years, Nordstrom has expanded accessories space in new stores and ongoing store remodels to respond to how our customers are shopping and to expand the offering itself, but we’re also excited about how the limits of walls of the store disappear when we expand our offer online beyond what a store can present,” says Myers. “We expect our customers to get the best of both worlds—a curated offer | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR in stores and a much broader offer online. The suppliers who have worked with us in this way are reaching more Nordstrom customers with more of what they offer.” APPS Fashionable women are increasingly using their mobile smartphones to research, browse and make purchases, and Nordstrom has definitely taken notice. The retailer has had a mobile commerce site since 2009 and rolled out its smartphone app in late 2011. “On an average day, more than 100,000 unique customers access Nordstrom on a mobile device, with nearly twice that amount during the holidays,” Blake Nordstrom told analysts. In 2012, sales from a mobile device accounted for over 20%—more than $260 million—of Nordstrom Direct’s total sales, he said, compared to less than 4% in 2010.” And these numbers don’t even include HauteLook sales. According to app-rater Xtreme Labs, Nordstrom’s app was ranked as 3rd highest rated retail app on Android devices. Nordstrom’s overall 2012 strategy was heavily weighted toward ecommerce and included building out its information technology infrastructure, enhancing customers’ web and mobile experience, expanding online merchandise selection, and adding to the functionality of mobile point-of-sale devices and expanding their deployment in fullline and Nordstrom Rack stores, Nordstrom said. Congratulations NORDSTROM for being named Retailer of the Year! The Dressing Room feature lets customers create ever-changing, fully accessorized looks Nordstrom recently invested approximately $150 million in 2012 on infrastructure improvements, including: • Enhanced search, navigation and checkout • Updated recommendations • 360-degree video on certain web site product pages • 50% expansion of product availability and selection • Mobile site and app upgrades “We’ve improved the speed of fulfillment and delivery and we provided early access online to our anniversary sale,” Nordstrom said. “Going forward, we plan to further elevate the shopping experience with features that provide more interaction and personalization.” Launched last summer, Nordstrom’s new iPad app offers a simple, fast and intuitive way to browse and buy merchandise, and Nordstrom will introduce additional features and functionality with subsequent updates. A few of the unique features available with launch of the app include: • The Dressing Room: This feature offers customers an interactive way to create and save multiple looks by double-tapping or dragging items to the Dressing Room canvas. Customers can resize images, add or delete items, and view product details to create up to 75 unique looks. Items placed in the Dressing Room can then be instantly added to the customer’s shopping bag. • Customizable Homepage: Customers can personalize their homepage by selecting which departments they would like to see on their home screen, including the ability to view items from their Dressing Room as well as Nordstrom catalogs. • Social Sharing: The Nordstrom iPad app makes it easy for customers to instantly share any of their favorite products via Facebook, Twitter, or email. 45&3-*/(4*-7&3t$)*-%3&/4 45"*/-&4445&&-t#0%:+&8&-3: 'JOF+FXFMSZGPSBMMBHFT XXXUPNBTKFXFMSZDPN 46 ACCESSORIES | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR YOUphoria Nordstrom’s new online ad campaign targets a younger, hipper audience ‘‘I t’s not where you’re going, it’s how you get there.” Such is the voiceover on one of Nordstrom’s series of 30-second online ads aimed at a young, cool customer. The tagline: “Youphoria. It’s more attainable than you think. Find yours at Nordstrom.” The “Youphoria” campaign is just part of Nordstrom’s ongoing expansion into the youth market (i.e., a revamped Savvy Department, its partnership with Topshop) and its new High/Low positioning of mixed-price offerings. The ads, created by Mekanism, have a distinct message: Great style from Nordstrom can help you build a character that is uniquely your own. They are housed on Nordstrom’s YouTube channel and promoted via its various social media sites. In the ads for women, one shows a young woman squirting lighter fluid onto a bonfire, while a raccoon-suited man dances behind her. “Some people light a fire with two sticks,” says the voiceover. “You light it with a laser-cut mini, black leather moto jacket and an arm stacked with bangles. Because you’re not a woodsman, you’re a lady, with a bottle of lighter fluid and a mission to party.” The third video depicts a woman riding down a hill on a motorbike. The voiceover? “It’s not where you’re going, it’s how you get there. Cotton lace sundress. Strappy metallic stilettos. Something sparkly. And a smirk that says, ‘Yes, you have that right. I am piloting a minibike through life.’” The ads are targeted to the 25-to-35 year old consumer and ran through May in six major markets. Nordstrom spent more than $36 million on advertising last year, Michael Crotty, Nordstrom’s vice president of marketing, told The New York Times, nearly all of it on digital media. “Digital advertising helps the company find a lot of new customers online and in-store. Somewhat younger customers respond really well to digital messages.” 48 ACCESSORIES | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM RETAILER OF THE YEAR #ENGAGING THE CONSUMER N ORDSTROM IS ALSO ENGAGING SOCIAL MEDIA TO CALL OUT TRENDS. And as trendy consumers tend to also be young and media-savvy, the company has incorporated cool videos and a hashtag campaign to get consumers to post their own trend shots. “All on the Wrist,” for example, is a two-and-a-half minute video that shows a beautifully hip model getting ready for the day, typing on her laptop, and of course, her phone. As she piles on her various bracelets, they jingle in beat with the sountrack’s organic rhythm of everyday items (think: “Stomp”). At the end, the call to action is “Show Us Your Knack to Stack #STACKEDWRIST.” And indeed, there are endless photos on Twitter and Instagram under hashtag #stackedwrist. “The Stacked Wrist initiative allows Nordstrom to demonstrate their merchandise online with a story on trends and show ways to wear the product,” notes a watch vendor. Beyond the video, however, Nordstrom also has eight slides that show bracelets fitting all the different trends of the season, from Punk to Deco to Craft. It’s about identifying a trend, making it your own, then sharing it with the world. All courtesy of Nordstrom. 50 ACCESSORIES | JUNE 2013 | FIND MORE AT ACCESSORIESMAGAZINE.COM