January 2015 - Cuba Travel Services
Transcription
January 2015 - Cuba Travel Services
jan In co-operation with 2015 December 17, 2014 A day that will go down in history The best 20 Cuban books of the past 20 years Wendy Guerre: Havana’s literary darling CUBAN LITERARY ISSUE HAVANA GUIDE RESTAURANTS — BARS & CLUBS — ACCOMMODATION Services offered Direct Flights to Cuba Ground Transportation Assistance with Authorized Activities Car Rentals Group Itineraries Visa/Passport Application Hotel Reservations VIP Services For OFAC authorized passengers only. For terms and conditions see operator-participant contract. Flights operated by American Airlines and Sun Country Airlines License number CTS#2074621 by Nicolas Ordoñez PHOTO With a Passion for Cuba Cuba Absolutely is an independent platform, which seeks to showcase the best in Cuba arts & culture, life-style, sport, travel and much more... We seek to explore Cuba through the eyes of the best writers, photographers and filmmakers, both Cuban and international, who live work, travel and play in Cuba. Beautiful pictures, great videos, opinionated reviews, insightful articles and inside tips. HAVANA GUIDE The ultimate guide to Havana with detailed reviews of where to eat, drink, dance, shop, visit and play. Unique insights to the place that a gregarious, passionate and proud people call home. La Guarida Like us on Facebook for beautiful images, links to interesting articles and regular updates. Over 100 videos including interviews with Cuba’s best artists, dancers, musicians, writers and directors. OUR CONTRIBUTORS Follow us on Twitter for regular updates of new content, reviews, comments and more. We are deeply indebted to all of the writers and photographers who have shared their work with us. We welcome new contributors and would love hear from you if you have a Cuba-related project. You can contact us at CubaAbsolutely@gmail.com. Photo by Alex Mene of men catching fish in Cojímar EDITORIAL Cover picture by Alex Mene in Plaza de la Revolución, December 20, 2014 [This is a remake of this photo from the 1960’s] December 17, 2014 began like any other day—kids getting ready for school, adults heading to their jobs, moms making breakfast, elders going out to buy bread and the newspaper… Nothing indicated that the regular daily routine would be broken that day. But around midmorning, my neighbor started banging on my door and in a voice choked with emotion told me that Cuba was releasing Alan Gross and that the United States would do the same thing with Gerardo, Tony and Ramón, the three Cuban Five that still remained in US prisons. The road is long, complex, risky… The questions are many and the possible answers, infinite. There are few guarantees and many uncertainties. But today, I only wish to enjoy this different day, a happy day for my people, for the families of the prisoners who were released. A day that will go down in history! This issue is dedicated to Cuban literature in recognition of Cuba’s growing influence in the world of literature, which this month sees Cuba’s premier literary event. This issues features interviews with three of Cuba’s best contemporary writers: Pedro Juan Gutiérrez, Leonardo Padura and Wendy Guerra. We also have included a piece on the late Gabriel García Márquez and his long-standing relationship with Cuba. January is a beautiful time to visit Cuba. You may need to hurry up with your reservation since the No Vacancy sign has been already hung up on many hotels and private houses and you will need to book ahead for the best restaurants. Finally, in this month of change, it is worth pausing to commemorate José Martí, who was born in 1853, on Paula Street in Havana, in the house that is currently marked with number 314. Poet, journalist, orator, essayist, translator, José Martí is not only the most significant literary figure of the 19th century in Cuba, he was also the organizer of the Cuban Revolutionary Party against Spanish colonialism. January 2015 Highlights (Havana, unless stated) * January 1: Anniversary of the Revolution * January 7-11: Festival de la Trova Longina (Santa Clara) * January 20: Casa de las Américas Literary Prize * January 27: Marcha de las Antorchas * January 28: Birthday of José Martí Thanks to all of our contributors, sponsors, partners and readers. Do please keep providing us with your feedback, comments and suggestions. All enquiries should be directed to Sophia Beckman at CubaAbsolutely@gmail.com. All the best. Viva Cuba! Photo by Vanotti of the British warship entering Havana harbour, December 2014 JANUARY 2015 A day that will go down in history p6 CUBAN LITERATURE HAVANA LISTINGS January 20: Casa de las Americas Prize p8 García Márquez still walks with me p10 Pedro Juan Gutiérrez: A mythical figure p13 Leonardo Padura and his alter ego Mario Conde p15 Wendy Guerre: Havana’s literary darling p17 Cien botellas en la pared p19 The 20 must-read Cuban books from the past 20 years p20 Visual Arts p29 — Photography p32 — Dance p33 — Music p34 — Theatre p41 — For Kids p43 HISTORY & CULTURE January 27, 2015 La March de la antorchas p48 January 28, 1853: Birth of José Martí p50 TRAVEL HM7 p52 HAVANA GUIDE Features — Restaurants — Bars & Clubs — Live Music — Hotels — Private Accommodation p54 A day that will go down in history by Victoria Alcalá December 17, 2014 began like any other day—kids getting ready for school, adults heading to their jobs, moms making breakfast, elders going out to buy bread and the newspaper… Nothing indicated that the regular daily routine would be broken that day. But around mid-morning, my neighbor started banging on my door and in a voice choked with emotion told me that Cuba was releasing Alan Gross and that the United States would do the same thing with Gerardo, Tony and Ramón, the three Cuban Five that still remained in US prisons. Aware that my placid neighbor does not drink alcoholic beverages so early in the morning, I asked him for the source of the news. “Telesur,” he said, and I diligently rushed and tuned in on that TV channel. There, Gross’s arrival in the US shared the screen with a speech by a Latin American president (I can’t remember which) at the Mercosur meeting, and a few minutes later, President Cristina Fernández de Kirchner, who was visibly moved, announced the release of the Cuban prisoners and that the governments of Cuba and the United States would normalize their diplomatic relations. I have to admit that the first news did not allow me to assimilate the second one and I couldn’t contain the tears thinking the happiness that You’ve mothers, wives, sons and daughters, brothers and sisters, and friends—from both sides of the Florida Straits—were experiencing at that moment. But the Argentinian President also disclosed that Raúl Castro and Barack Obama would be speaking at noon. It was 11 o’clock and that was the longest hour in my life. At 12 sharp, Raúl, completely composed, without letting his feelings show, announced that the Cuban prisoners, for whom so many people had fought all over the world, had arrived on Cuban soil and that the governments of Cuba and the US would reestablish diplomatic relations. And then, I saw Obama on Telesur ratifying that his country was changing its relations with the Cuban people. And then I understood that what Cristina Fernández had said was not wishful thinking but a reality. An explosion of adrenaline shook my home, my street, my neighborhood, my city, my country. Tears, laughter, cheers… The reflections of the middle-aged ran along the path of emotions: “Fidel should have been the one to break the news.” “I’m glad it was Raúl after all these hard years.” “It’s a good thing Fidel is alive to see this!” The young people, in tune with the times, ran to IM or chat with their friends scattered around the world. The contents waited Long Enough PAGE 6 PRODUCED BY .COM more pragmatic began to imagine how the words of an inscrutable Castro and a smiling Obama would influence their existence, their decisions, their future. That day, people stopped working at their offices, their factories. The optimistic envisaged that the end of the embargo was just around the corner ,while others, like me, thought that this was just the beginning of a long road although we can already see a light at the end. Some started to joke about California apples and wine for Christmas, or gave thanks to Saint Lazarus, whose feast day was being celebrated on that day, for his intercession. There were questions, too: How will life be without the embargo? Can we look to the future without fearing that a family member may need a certain drug and we cannot get hold of it because it’s made in the U.S.? Will I be able to send cigars to my uncle with their bands and labels and in their original boxes unafraid of its Cuban origin? Will we be ready to abandon the land-under-siege mentality? Will future U.S. governments coexist in a civilized manner with such a different neighbor? The road is long, complex, risky… The questions are many and the possible answers, infinite. There are few guarantees and many uncertainties. But today, I only wish to enjoy this different day, a happy day for my people, for the families of the prisoners who were released; a complex day for the presidents of both countries. A day that will go down in history! You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 7 PRODUCED BY .COM premio Casa de las Américas2015 56th Casa de las Américas Literary Award Initiated in Havana in 1960 to draw attention to the most significant literary production in Latin America—and at a later date, the Caribbean, too— in the genres of poetry, novel, short story, essay, theatre and testimony, as well as works in other languages spoken in the region, the Casa de las Américas Literary Award has gathered outstanding figures of contemporary writing, including Miguel Ángel Asturias, Mario Vargas Llosa, Julio Cortázar, Alejo Carpentier, Allen Ginsberg, Nicolás Guillén, Nicanor Parra, Jaime Sabines, Alfredo Bryce Echenique, Guillermo Cabrera Infante, Eduardo Galeano, Paco Ignacio Taibo II, José Lezama Lima, Italo Calvino, Camilo José Cela, José Saramago, to name a few. January 19-29, 2015 Casa de las Américas You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 8 PRODUCED BY .COM Throughout the years, many of the prize-winning works have become classics of the continent’s literature; thus, each year’s announcement creates great expectations among the public, who also have the opportunity to attend collateral activities programmed during the event. The jury usually sessions in the city of Cienfuegos, where its members hold lectures and readings of their works. Prizes for unpublished works in the genres of novel, poetry, and essay on a historic-social theme, and literature for children and teenagers will be given out during the 56th Casa de las Américas Literary Award. A Prize for Literature in the United States will also be granted this year. Casa de las Américas will also pay homage to Julio Cortáza, Argentine novelist, short story writer and essayist, who is considered one of the most innovative and original writers of his time. 2014 Premio Casa de las Américas Prizes for unpublished works in the genres of short story, theater and essay were presented during the 55th Casa de las Américas Literary Award. A Prize for Studies on Women was also granted this in 2014. Authors from the English speaking Caribbean also participated with works written in English or Creole and published in those languages from 2012-2013, as well as nonfiction Brazilian works written in Portuguese and published in that language from 2010-2013. Casa de las Américas also gave out three honorary prizes—the José Lezama Lima Prize for Poetry; the José María Arguedas Prize for Narrative; and the Ezequiel Martínez Estrada Prize for Essay. The prizes were awarded to significant works written by a Latin American author, whose first editions were published in Spanish from 2011 to 2012. Winners of the 2014 Premio Casa de las Américas: Short story: Cosas peores by Margarita García Robayo (Colombia) Theater: Blanco con sangre negra by Alejandro Román Bahena (Mexico) José Lezama Lima Prize for Poetry: Explicaciones no pedidas by Piedad Bonnett (Colombia) Prize for Essay on an Artistic and Literary Theme: José Lezama Lima: estética e historiografía del arte en su obra crítica by Carlos Orlando Fino Gómez (Colombia) José María Arguedas Prize for Narrative: Arrecife by Juan Villoro (Mexico) Brazilian Literature: Marighella: o guerrilheiro que incendiou o mund by Mário Magalhães Caribbean Literature: Fear of a Black Nation Race, Sex, and Security in Sixties Montreal by David Austin (Jamaica) You’ve Prize for Studies on Women: La loca inconfirmable. Apropiaciones feministas de Manuela Sáenz by Mariana Libertad Suárez (Venezuela) Ezequiel Martínez Estrada Prize for Essay: Che Guevara y el debate económico en Cuba by Luiz Bernardo Pericás (Brazil) contents waited Long Enough PAGE 9 PRODUCED BY .COM García Márquez STILL WALKS WITH ME by Victoria Alcalá In the 1960s, I was absolutely convinced that good literature came from Europe and that writers like Cervantes, Shakespeare, Goethe, Balzac or Dostoyevsky could only have been born in the Old World. When Casa de las Américas published One Hundred Years of Solitude by Colombian author Gabriel García Márquez in 1968—a few months after it was put out in Buenos Aires by Sudamericana Press—I was at the “school in the countryside” where the girls from the Víbora High School were sewing tobacco leaves together to be hung on long wooden poles for curing inside huge tobacco houses. We would come to memorize that unforgettable first paragraph: “Many years later, as he faced the firing squad, Colonel Aureliano Buendía was to remember that distant afternoon when his father took him to discover ice ...” and García Márquez taught us that Latin American reality could be told through fantasy and magic, but in an everyday manner. We began to identify legends and characters with such an objective level of lived references that it seemed that the Colombian writer was with us, accompanying us in our lives. We thought it was impossible to surpass such precise likelihood filled with so many fantastic ingredients, without seeming literary fiction but just one of those stories told by grandmothers. Somebody got hold of a copy of the novel and the expectation was so great that we decided that one of us would read while the others continued to sew tobacco leaves. We all agreed to do the work of our chosen reader, who kept us in suspense with the vicissitudes of the many generations of the Buendía family. Thanks to this unique book, we discovered that literature and writers could also come from Latin America. This first experience led us to pursue and eventually enjoy the writings of Julio Cortázar, Mario Vargas Llosa, Carlos Fuentes, Mario Benedetti and we even pored over the works of Alejo Carpentier who, despite being Cuban, did not count as one of our favorites. I looked for other books written by García Márquez and I read his novellas No One Writes to the Colonel and Leaf Storm, his novel Evil Hour and the Macondo narratives Litter and Evil Hour. I enjoyed the suspense, the unsurpassed description, the humor and rawness of Chronicle of a Death Foretold. I participated in the debate over the controversial, historical novel The General in His Labyrinth, which surprised and even offended many people because it demystified Bolivar, a hero that the official story had removed from the category of ordinary people. And I was moved by the The Autumn of the Patriarch, a fable on the solitude of power. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 10 PRODUCED BY .COM The then young journalist Gabriel García Márquez arrived on the island after the triumph of the Revolution to work in the newly created news agency Prensa Latina. Here he met Fidel and Che, and has stated that his relationship with the Cuban leader was largely based on discussions about literature, that it was an “intellectual friendship.” It is clear, however, that his friendship with Fidel went beyond cultural interests and was based on common ethical principles and political sympathies, to the point of having experienced, not many years ago, the exciting and strange adventure of being a sort of liaison between Fidel and President Bill Clinton in super-secret dealings. The Colombian novelist, who was also a lover of film, was a key contributor to the creation of the International Film School of San Antonio de los Baños and to the Foundation of New Latin American Cinema, not only with his influence and convening power, but with his direct involvement, having taught courses on script writing at the school. His relationship with Cuba was not limited to cultural institutions, such as ICAIC and Casa de las Americas. He was friends with intellectuals, artists and people from all walks of life who started calling him Gabo quite naturally, like his closest friends. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 11 PRODUCED BY .COM I thought that after One Hundred Years of Solitude, Gabo could not shake us again as he did in our youth. But in 1986, Love in the Time of Cholera was published in Cuba. Not only did I make the longest line—which went around the block—in my life to buy a book, I again memorized complete fragments of a novel. My favorite one is the one that says that “the heart has more rooms than a whorehouse.” Although Gabriel García Márquez’s end was a “death foretold,” it took me by surprise and I was saddened as if I had lost a family member. Selfishly, I thought: “No longer will I be able to wait eagerly for a new book written by him.” But I take comfort in knowing that every time I reread any of his books, there will be new discoveries in store for me and I will experience once again those youthful days when in a tobacco house, one remote afternoon, Gabo took me to discover Latin American literature. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 12 PRODUCED BY .COM Pedro Juan Gutiérrez: A mythical figure by Ricardo Alberto Perez Pedro Juan Gutiérrez (Matanzas, 1950) is one of the great mythical figures in contemporary Cuban literature, particularly abroad where paradoxically he is better known and promoted than in his own country. He graduated from the University of Havana in 1978 in Journalism and worked for many years in that profession. By the end of the 1990s, his books were beginning to attain recognition and currently his narrations have been published in approximately 23 languages. In his Trilogía sucia de La Habana [Dirty Havana Trilogy] (1998), made up by Anclado en tierra de nadie (Anchored in No-Man’s Land), Nada que hacer (Nothing to Do) and Sabor a mí (The Taste of Me, Gutierrez navigates through complex situations that life has etched into his memory, showing his ability to mediate between pain and the possibility of transforming it into lucidity. The narrative reveals an intense and localized Havana, specifically the densely populated downtown area of Centro Habana. It is a location that struggles with memories of time past and also with its own aging and deterioration. You’ve Above all, the book deals with Centro Habana in the 1990s, submerged in the precariousness of existence from the lack of electricity to the shortage of food. That is Pedro Juan’s habitat, perfect for showing borderline situations that contribute much flavor to his prose. It possesses a strong, spontaneous identity that helps it resist the most unpredictable of assaults. It also has the Malecón, the city’s marvelous “balcony” overlooking the sea, which provides human beings the chance to fill their lungs with hope. Language, behavior, the speed with which things happen, precariousness and, particularly, a gallery of odors ranging from the most seductive to the most repulsive, may make us think of a regional prose, the literature that one district is able to contribute to national literature. His work has been classified as “dirty realism” since Gutierrez moves in a style that refuses to apply any sort of whitewash. This narrative strategy of his is also visible in El Rey de La Habana (The King of Havana) (1999), Animal tropical (Tropical Animal) (2000), El insaciable hombre araña (The Insatiable Spider-man) (2002) and Carne de perro (Dog Meat) (2003). contents waited Long Enough PAGE 13 PRODUCED BY .COM His major forte lies in knowing how to put together a rich and chaotic universe as seen from one point in the city. Many of the characters in this universe are people wandering around without a plan, seeking some scrap of salvation in any way they can. The narrator almost always becomes one of the characters, if not the main one, and with his tolerant attitude commits to the other characters. Throughout his literary oeuvre, Pedro Juan Gutiérrez has firmly inserted himself into an area of Cuban literature that dynamites its way through prejudices and false poses. It does not fear marginality; indeed, it uses it as a source. This prose acknowledges its Cuban roots in the work of an author such as Carlos Montenegro and it passes through others such as Reinaldo Arenas and Guillermo Vidal. His stories are generally peopled by sexually available men and women who are capable of driving some foreigner (or Cuban) crazy. The myth of Cuban sexuality has become one of our You’ve trademarks and has grown uncontrollably. This sexuality is emphasized when it is compared with others and can be seen in Animal Tropical where friction between the worlds of Sweden and Havana are made clear. Generally, the origin of these conflicts is autobiographical since Pedro Juan Gutiérrez enters and leaves his Island creating a relationship of dependence and rejection that uses language as its ally. Gutierrez’ poetry is another important facet of his work: it is reflexive and profoundly spiritual as seen beautifully in his Arrastrando hojas secas hacia la oscuridad (Dragging Dry Leaves towards Obscurity). Picturesque, educated, without taking on additional poses, whenever he is not being called upon for some literary event or traveling abroad to promote his work, he can be generally seen crossing some street in downtown Havana, soaking up the human panorama that inspires him. contents waited Long Enough PAGE 14 PRODUCED BY .COM Leonardo Padura AND HIS ALTER EGO MARIO CONDE by Ricardo Alberto Pérez When I first decided to insert myself—incurably—into the world of literature, I heard someone say that to write, you have to have obsessions. With the passage of time, I have come to believe that these obsessions are a necessary part of the creative process. Ideas that follow you like a lost puppy often uncover and unlock an intense subjective universe. Here we seek to uncover the obsessions of Leonardo Padura Fuentes, one of the most recognized Cuban authors in the Spanish-speaking world and beyond. Padura was born in the outlying Havana district of Mantilla where he still lives. He studied Spanish American Literature at the University of Havana before he published his first novel, Fiebre de Caballos [Horse Fever], in 1983. Padura was not always a novelist. He spent a considerable part of his life as a journalist, writing for the cultural magazine El Caimán Barbudo and the newspaper Juventud Rebelde where his articles were highly anticipated by his faithful readers. Padura’s skill as a journalist—writing about diverse figures from the famous pimp during the republican period Alberto Yarini to the extraordinary conga player Chano Pozo—helped him in developing his complex characters. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 15 PRODUCED BY .COM Padura has written many different kinds of novels, from love stories to historical fiction. Two of his most famous novels, La historia de mi vida [The Story of My Life] and El hombre que amaba los perros [The Man who Loved Dogs] represent his attempt at the latter. While La historia de mi vida presents the life of the Cuban poet José María Heredia, El hombre que amaba los perros centers on the true story of Ramón Mercader, Trotsky’s murderer, who lived the last years of his life in Cuba. His latest book, El hombre que amaba los perros (2009), has been well received among readers and critics alike, garnering several awards in Italy, France, and Cuba. It is impossible to talk about Padura’s work without discussing his most notable character, Mario Conde, a detective who differs significantly from the official public image that has prevailed of Cuban policemen. Conde is slovenly, often drunk, and discontent in his career, as he had You’ve always wanted to be a writer. But Conde is more than just a simple character. He is, according to Padura, a reflection of the material and spiritual hardships that his generation has had to endure. You can read Conde’s story in one of Padura’s many detective novels, including Pasado perfecto [Past Perfect] (1991), Vientos de Cuaresma [Lent Winds] (1994), Máscaras [Masks] (1997), Paisaje de otoño [Autumn Scenery] (1998), Adiós Hemingway [Goodbye Hemingway] (2001) and La neblina del ayer [The Mist of the Past] (2005). From a journalist to a well-known author, Leonardo Padura is an authentic Cuban who loves to sit down and talk. Whether defending the right for Cuban writers and artists in the face of censorship or defending his pet baseball team, the Industriales, Padura is an articulate intellectual. contents waited Long Enough PAGE 16 PRODUCED BY .COM Photo by Yadira Montero Wendy Guerra, Havana’s literary darling by Margaret Atkins We meet Wendy at Le Chansonnier in Vedado, a favorite haunt of Havana artists. She is wearing a simple, impeccably white blouse. Straight dark hair with youthful bangs that go well with her overall appearance. She is petite, thin. Her smile is joyful but her eyes are sad. She talks fluidly and naturally, her words springing forth easily and precisely. Her books have not been published in Cuba for several years now. For many people, Wendy is no more than a memory of a child who narrated children’s stories on TV’s Buenos Días, the first morning news program on Cuban television. There were some rumors that she had been successful as a writer and, for those of us living on the island, we are fortunate that in 2013 the Letras Cubanas Press has published Posar desnuda en La Habana, a novel that reconstructs the Cuban sojourn of the Frenchborn writer Anaïs Nin, taking the format of an apocryphal diary. The book is going to be presented at the 2014 Havana Book Fair. Wendy gives us a copy and I devour it on the way home. I read as I walk, I read on the bus, I read it in the kitchen and, when I have finished, I want more. At home we have a copy of her first volume of poetry, Platea a oscuras, published in 1987 when she was just 16 years old, at a time when she already revealed precocious nostalgia in her style. Once again, the You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 17 PRODUCED BY .COM the gregarious lifestyle of many of us Cubans (rural schools, production jobs, school residences that have great numbers of students living together), Wendy believes that a little peace and quiet is needed, some individuality if you will. sad eyes. She has written about death, incest, sex, love, poverty, opulence, orphans, despair, art, racism, feminism and femininity. Wendy admits that she is a darling of the market. Her books have been translated into thirteen languages and they are always sold out. She is deeply in love with poetry and she tells us that whenever someone calls themselves a good poet, as she does, almost always they are good people. But above anything else, she confesses that she loves being with herself. Reading, thinking, writing. After You’ve It was Gabriel García Márquez who gave Wendy’s literary career its first boost: “He told me to forget about the movies and write pure, hard literature,” she tells us. Time would prove the Nobel laureate right. In 2006 her first novel Todos se van was published and received the Bruguera Press Award for that year. Translated into French, Italian, German, Bulgarian, Swedish and English and printed in the US, it was chosen by Latino Author Review of the United States as one of the nine best books of the year. In 2008 she published Nunca fui Primera Dama (Bruguera Press, Barcelona) and in 2011, Posar desnuda en La Habana. Diario apócrifo de Anaïs Nin (Alfaguara Press, Mexico). She tells us she is now working on Negra, a new novel dealing with racism, something that has never been totally eradicated from Cuban society, which still carries baggage from the scourge of slavery in the sugar cane plantations. I’m anxious to get a copy of this new book and, as we say good-bye, I have the urge to wonder one more time what secrets lie behind that somewhat childlike appearance. Perhaps her new novel will reveal the mystery. contents waited Long Enough PAGE 18 PRODUCED BY .COM Cien botellas en una pared by John Dew This drawing was inspired by the most stunning and beautifully written novel published in Cuba in the last ten years, “Cien Botellas en una Pared,” by the prizewinning young Cuban novelist Ena Lucía Portela. Published in 2002, it has been translated into French, but not yet into English (see note). It paints a sharp, compelling tragicomic picture of the heroine’s progress from school in the 1980s to maturity in the 1990s, against the background of a mansion long given over to multi occupation in Havana’s louche but still distinguished Vedado district. The drawing shows the house on what the heroine calls “happy hammer corner.” Like everywhere in Havana, somebody is always banging and tapping, dividing floors and putting shacks on the roof, “inventing” yet more living space. You can see the young heroine with her schoolfriends Linda and Yadelis (bottom right), and later with her abusive lover Moisés in the window (top left) from which he falls, thanks to the mysterious Alix (swinging from the parapet), to an entirely timely death. Other characters shown include the would-be trumpeter Poliester (nobody can pronounce Dniester, his real name), parish priest and confessor Padre Ignacio, the drunks permanently in the hallway and “el Megaterio,” the fierce dog who terrorises the building. Notas:, John Dew was British Ambassador to Cuba 2006-2009. The book has since been translated into French, Portuguese, Dutch, Polish, Italian, Greek, Turkish and English. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 19 PRODUCED BY .COM 20 must-read Cuban books from the past 20 years by Victoria Alcalá ,Updated December 2014 It would be much too risky to list the “best books” of Cuban literature, considered one of the richest in the Americas. Instead, we have preferred to suggest 20 titles from the past 20 years that we believe are essential reading in order to gain an understanding of the culture and idiosyncrasy of the Cuban people. Alguien tiene que llorar / 1995 [Somebody Has to Cry] , Marilyn Bobes (1955) Awarded the Premio Casa de las Américas, the short stories that comprise this volume, with subtle yet implacable depth, delve into the psychology of its characters: women immersed in the conflicts, doubts and frustrations of a society headed towards the upsetting material and spiritual changes that defined the close of the 20th century in Cuba. El Rey de La Habana / 1999 [The King of Havana] , Pedro Juan Gutiérrez (1950) Described in Europe as a “tropical Bukowski,” this was the first novel by Gutiérrez, who had already successfully published his Trilogía sucia de La Habana (Dirty Havana Trilogy), a collection of three storybooks that share common characters and situations, unprejudiced views and a language bordering on the obscene, which have made him a controversial writer. This work, which the author considers “a study on human cruelty.” he again submerges himself into a marginal world of unbridled sexuality and hopeless characters that he would continue in his subsequent novels: Animal tropical, El insaciable hombre araña and Carne de perro, which are also part of his “Havana Cycle.” Without any advertising, Union Press of the National Union of Writers and Artists of Cuba, published El Rey de La Habana in 2009. The novel was eagerly purchased by Cuban readers, who only had seen published in Cuba other less famous titles by Gutiérrez. El vuelo del gato / 1999 [Flight of the Cat] , Abel Prieto (1950) The lives, sometimes convergent, sometimes divergent, of three high school friends become the thread of this novel, which, through a gallery of characters and situations ranging from the hilarious to the tragic, explores Cuba’s rich and contradictory reality of the 1960s and 70s. Inventario secreto de La Habana / 2004 [Secret Inventory of Havana] , Abilio Estévez (1954) The contrast between the heartrending attachment of the Havana-born, 19th century poet Julián del Casal to his city, whom he loved beyond its misery and mediocrity, and the never achieved literary utopia of his contemporary José Martí, also born in Havana but cut off from it since his youth, gives rise to the novel in which the city of Havana is the main character, either through the sometimes nostalgic, sometimes unforgiving view of its author, as well as of other Cuban and international writers and anonymous inhabitants. A mixture of reality and fiction, it explores the city, mythicized by yearning and memories, but is also evoked in the harshness of its more somber aspects. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 20 PRODUCED BY .COM La neblina del ayer / 2005 [The Mist of the Past] Leonardo Padura (1955) Ex-detective Mario Conde, the hero of four earlier successful novels, who has become a bookseller due to the difficult economic situation in Cuba, driven by the need to prove his innocence in a crime in which he seems to be implicated, digs into the nightclub scene of the 1950s and in the hallucinating world of delinquency of present-day Havana. Por el camino de la mar o Nosotros los cubanos / 2005 [The Road to the Sea or We Cubans] Guillermo Rodríguez Rivera (1943) A collection of essays in which the poet and professor Guillermo Rodríguez Rivera, with the carefree and humoristic style of colloquialism, delves into significant aspects of the formation of Cuba’s national identity, either through the vicissitudes of history or that which is both perceived and reaffirmed in poetry or music. A substantial, enjoyable and brave text, which is required reading for whoever wishes to get to know the Cuban people, the elements that have been crucial in the formation of our idiosyncrasy and the motives of certain behaviors, which, for an unsuspecting observer, may seem inexplicable. Las voces y los ecos / 2006 [Voices and Echoes] Aida Bahr (1958) The dogmatism, lack of understanding and marginalization that marred the Cuban cultural world in the 1970s during the period that scholars have called the “grey quinquennium”—or even decade—is the topic of this novel written in the firstperson about the intellectual, emotional and human development of a young woman with a strong artistic vocation, who tells her own story and at the same time ironically questions the aesthetic and stylistic efficiency of her own narrative. A well-known storyteller, the author makes her debut as a novelist with this work, which has been very well received by the public and the critics. Todos se van / 2006 [Everybody Leaves] Wendy Guerra (1970) Written in the style of a diary, this novel—sometimes realistic and sometimes intensely poetic—tells the life story of Nieve Guerra, the loneliness and fears of her childhood, the time she spent in a reformatory and at the National Art School, her discovery of sex and, especially, her intense feeling of abandonment, because, as the author has commented, “I believe that “everybody leaves” all places. Outward, inward…Some go to the airport, others to the cemetery, and still others leave us gently or with a slam and consign us directly to oblivion…This is neither a Cuban issue nor the sentiment of a “generation.” You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 21 PRODUCED BY .COM En el cielo con diamantes / 2007 [In the Sky with Diamonds] Senel Paz (1950) After 17 years away from publishing houses, Paz pout out before the public this novel, which another successful Cuban writer, Leonardo Padura, considers is “a novel of sexual initiation, not of one or two characters, but of a whole generation… also, a novel of the ideological initiation of a human group…This is why, together with the glory of discovering sex, equal opportunities, the dazzling capital city, other things also come on the scene—the sordid origins of moral and ideological deceitfulness, the commentaries in hushed tones and even the absolute silence that became entrenched and killed the happiness of so many individuals given historical pressures, orthodoxies and extremisms in different times in the life of the nation.” Desde los blancos manicomios / 2008 [From the White Lunatic Asylums] Margarita Mateo Palmer (1950) This first novel written by Margarita Mateo, who had already revolutionized critical studies in Cuba with her Ella escribía proscrítica, resorts to a crazy character to build a novel “in which…the avid reader will find routes to a magical and mestizo world that will take them by the hand through areas where poetry and fantasies converge. The probable origin of this novel supports quite a few readings in the Latin American and Caribbean context…readings that far from cut out its profile, amplifies it,” as pointed out by the critic Eugenio Marrón. El puente de coral / 2008 [The Coral Bridge] Hugo Luis Sánchez Set in a Cuban coastal village, from the 1930s to 1950s, this novel--a mix between adventure stories and spy fiction--of a marked cinematic nature, strong characters and language that may go from conciseness to poetry, according to the author, “tells the story of three friends, two boys and one girl…It combines love, murder, smuggling and vengeance. There’s a brothel and a whole lot of whores. I began [to work on the book] attracted by the presence of German submarines in Cuban territorial waters during WWII, something that is truly fascinating.” The author breaks away from the vocation of documenting the present, so frequent in today’s Cuban narrative. El hombre que amaba los perros / 2009 [The Man who Loved Dogs] Leonardo Padura (1955) The origin of this fascinating novel, which delves into the life and personality of Catalan Ramón Mercader, the man who was appointed by the Stalinist regime to assassinate the Russian revolutionary Leon Trotsky in 1940, lies perhaps in Leonardo Padura’s visit to Trotsky’s home in Coyacá, Mexico in 1989. With a plot set in Russia, Turkey, France, Norway, United States, Mexico and Cuba--where Mercader lived in hiding from 1974 until his death in 1978--the novel, written in Padura’s usual narrative skill, is also an acute reflection on the corruption of socialist utopia in the Soviet Union. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 22 PRODUCED BY .COM La soledad del tiempo / 2009 [The Loneliness of Time] Alberto Guerra Naranjo (1963) Inserted within a frequent trend in Cuba’s most recent literature--narratives with a strong autobiographical mark and an inclination towards social criticism in which it is very difficult to separate reality from fiction--Guerra Naranjo’s first novel goes into great detail about opportunism and the lack of scruple, which have come to the surface due to the country’s economic difficulties, in Cuban society, and, especially, within the “learned city” in which three writers--the book’s main characters--strive for recognition, which only one of them will enjoy, regardless of how reprehensible the ways to reach their goal may be. En la Habana no son tan elegantes / 2009 [They’re not so Elegant in Havana] Jorge Ángel Pérez (1963) The scenario of an impoverished tenement building in Old Havana, and fire— destroyer and purifier—serve as a thread to the eight stories in which the author, who becomes the protagonist of one of them, tells about the sadness that surrounds the lives of some characters who seek some kind of success at all costs, and end up mired in despair and hopelessness. On the borderline between what has been called neo-baroque and dirty realism, the well concocted stories in this volume expose a Havana that is very far from the tourist postcard and the triumphalist discourse. Sangra por la herida / 2010 [Bleeding from the Wound] Mirta Yáñez (1947) Emerging as the voice of a generation that undertook the task of consolidating the Cuban Revolution through enthusiasm, renunciations and many sorrows, Mirta Yáñez dives into the psychology and ethics of her characters, to delve into the imprint left by the experiences of a turbulent and complex time (the tired and old 1960s), seen from the grim prospect of the 90s, which marks the critical, and often harsh, disenchanted view. A master of the narrative technique, of the multiplicity of views and the outline of characters without losing the humor and irony inherent to the author, Sangra por la herida is a lucid and stark review of an era. Sobre los pasos del cronista. El quehacer intelectual de Guillermo Cabrera Infante en Cuba hasta 1965 / 2010 [In the Footsteps of the Chronicler. The Intellectual Work of Guillermo Cabrera Infante in Cuba until 1965] Elizabeth Mirabal y Carlos Velazco Centered on the first years of the cultural activity of controversial Cabrera Infante, this inquiry reveals not only his first training period and intellectual maturity, but the peculiarities of the time when this growth took place. The critic Luis Alvarez has said: “Through a direct polyphony of those involved in the early years of the author of Tres tristes tigres, especially in a time of overwhelming dynamism, Sobre los pasos del cronista manages to introduce the different angles, the forgotten multiple discourse of a number of decisive years for Cuban culture.” You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 23 PRODUCED BY .COM La verdad no se ensaya / 2012 [Truth Cannot Be Rehearsed] Julio César Guanche (1974) Considered by many experts as the most important Cuban thinker of his generation and a renovator of political thought in Cuba, Guanche delves into the Cuban republican tradition, the radical nationalism, and socialism. In the opinion of Cuban economist Juan Valdés Paz “his interpretation of socialism in a republican key... not only adds an innovative proposal to the Cuban debate but one that seems more appropriate to the ideology of Cuban radical nationalism, and therefore more culturally akin and autochthonous.” Elogio de la altea o las paradojas de la racialidad / 2012 [Praise to Marshmallows or The Paradoxes of Racialism] Zuleica Romay Guerra (1958) The essay critically explores the history of racism and racial discrimination in Cuba. The test runs, with a critical eye, the history of racism and racial discrimination in Cuba. Appealing to testimony, autobiographical references, historical inquiry and sociological analysis, the author reveals that even though the legal basis for racial discrimination were dynamited by the Revolution, its economic and psychological consequences still survive, and even surface, in circumstances that cause new inequalities. El 71. Anatomía de una crisis / 2013 [‘71. Anatomy of a Crisis] Jorge Fornet (1963) Although its title might suggest that the book is limited to one year, 1971, this excellent essay is a thorough, documented and at times delightful study of a crucial process for Cuban cultural policy. The author delves into the background, development, protagonists, antagonists and implications of what is known as the “gray quinquennium,” and from an amazing multiplicity of sources, explores all possible issues that marked it, outlines lessons for the present and leaves room for several controversies. La noria / 2013 [The Big Wheel] Ahmel Echevarría (1974) The so-called “gray-quinquennium” (1971-1976), which in recent years has been studied from various angles and positions, is the time frame of this novel that revolves around a writer in his sixties who has been excluded from the Cuban publishing scene because of his homosexual orientation. His conflicts, traumas, anguishes and fears; his clandestine relationship with an of the Cuban Security agent; and, no less important, the role of the writer and writing itself, are dealt with masterfully in a complex structure that is accessible to all kinds of readers thanks to author’s mastery of style. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 24 PRODUCED BY .COM The Havana Book Fair Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña (Feb 13-23) & provincial capitals (Feb 24 to Mar 9) You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 25 PRODUCED BY .COM The Havana Book Fair is one of the most popular fairs in Havana drawing tens of thousands of people within the walls of the Cabaña Fortress. Don’t be put off by what can at times seem like a mob scene but go and check it out for yourself. All those people add to its vitality and life, and invariably there are loads of ancillary events (recently the world’s largest cigar has been rolled there). This is a real opportunity for Cubans to pick up a wide variety of literature and books from around the world, and while for those used to shopping on Amazon.com or in Barnes & Noble, this fair may seem like a strange concoction, actually it works pretty well. The first known book fair in Cuba was held in May 1937 in the areas adjacent to the esplanade of La Punta Fortress, the Malecón and the Paseo del Prado. Despite government collaboration, it barely had an impact on the country’s cultural life, even in Havana. The poor promotion in the press, the scarce sale of books, mostly of Spanish, Argentinean and Mexican publishers, the low purchasing power of the population and the lack of interest from some potential readers—too much occupied in their professions—or from the general public, conditioned the eventual failure of this first attempt. The idea was taken up again in the 1950s, this time designed to be held along the Paseo del Prado and Parque Central, but this effort also left no mark on the cultural scene of Cuba during those years hampered as the country was by low schooling and an almost general lack of interest in reading. You’ve In March 1959, only three months after the revolutionary triumph, three important institutions were created: the National Printers of Cuba, the Cuban School of Graphic Arts and the School of Typography, whose purpose was to produce books that would be available and affordable for everyone. With the Literacy Campaign in 1961, a wide reading public was born, one who began to need books as an essential part of their existence. With the creation of the National Publishers of Cuba and the strengthening of different cultural institutions that helped Cuban authors to get published, the conditions for conducting book fairs in Cuba would change dramatically. By the mid-1960s, there was already a national industry, a population of avid readers and new writers who contributed to the publication of varied topics and genres. contents waited Long Enough PAGE 26 PRODUCED BY .COM For three consecutive years in the 60s, Parque Central was the venue of what was then called the Cuban Book Festival, but this never really took off. With the creation of the Ministry of Culture in 1976, the Cuban Book Institute considered the possibility of resuming the organization of book fairs and made some launchings and sales in the small plaza between the Asturian Center and the Manzana de Gómez, with a high turnout due largely to the auction of books and literary competitions. The prizes were vouchers for the purchase of 100 pesos’ worth of books. Note that the Cuban peso was worth considerably more than today and went a long way, with the added value that books were very cheap. It wasn’t until the 1980s, however, that a whole system of fairs was conceived. Many important new authors were introduced to readers thanks to printers, which were producing inexpensive books that reached larger audiences. Cubans increasingly demanded volumes of national and universal literature, history, science and technology, literature for children and teenagers, and so on. The 1st Havana International Book Fair took place in 1982 in the exhibition halls of the Fine Arts Museum and was dedicated to Cuban patriot and writer José Martí, Cuban poet Nicolás Guillén and Bulgarian leader Georgi Dimitrov, who had been a printer by trade. The modest representation You’ve of publishers and guests included publishers and writers from Latin America. The year 1984 saw the 2nd Book Fair, whose venue changed to the Pabellón Cuba and Habana Libre Hotel, with a larger attendance of international publishers, especially from Spain and Mexico. The 3rd Fair in 1986 was held in the Convention Center and the 4th Fair in 1990, at Pabexpo, until 2000 when it was relocated to San Carlos de La Cabaña Fortress, which has been its principal venue to this day. During all these years, the event has expanded in different ways. From the simple exhibition and sale of books of the early years, the fair now revolves around a central theme and a guest country. Activities include prizes to Cuban authors; panels, readings and lectures by outstanding Cuban and international writers; art exhibitions and concerts; launchings and book signing; and, of course, the sale of books. The legalization of the US dollar in the 90s made possible the sale of books by foreign publishers, who until then had only attended as exhibitors. As of 2002, the fair, which had only been held in Havana for two weeks, was extended to 30 other cities throughout Cuba from early February to mid-March. This move made the book fair the most massive cultural event held in Cuba. With the change of venue to La Cabaña Fortress in Havana, the fair managed to attract diverse contents waited Long Enough PAGE 27 PRODUCED BY .COM audiences, from the simple reader to professionals. One crowd that the fair has catered to consistently has been kids and teenagers with a wide selection of literature for these age groups. crowd. Crafts have always played an important part in these fairs. The sale of handicraft, for instance, begins at 6:00 pm, right after the book stands are closed. Cuban publishing houses tend to reserve the launchings of new books that they consider to be the most attractive for the fair, and many foreign publishers bring books at tempting prices, aware of the fact that the Cuban public is educated, curious and eager, but whose personal finances don’t go too far. It is a fact that many people save money throughout the year in the hope of leaving La Cabaña laden with bags full of reading material that may quench their thirst for good and entertaining literature for the next 12 months. Excited with their purchases, many sit on the wall of the 18th-century fortress or on the lawn in the central plaza to enjoy the rich booty. Official data shows that the 2012 International Book Fair put over 2,000 titles on sale—840 of which were new launchings—with over 6,000,000 copies. Around 260 writers and intellectuals, 600 editors and other professionals from 41 countries actively participated in the event, while the attendance by the public has been estimated at more than 2.5 million people who bought almost 1.5 million books in 25 days. None of these cold figures, however, reflect the spirit and the magnitude of this extraordinary cultural event. The number of visitors to the heritage site of La Cabaña Fortress has surpassed all expectations and it was necessary to expand the fair to other venues in Havana. There are rumors that the organizers are considering relocating the fair from the old military fortress to the World Heritage Site of Old Havana, where Eusebio Leal, the City Historian, reigns. There is still another side to the fair that goes beyond its literary nature. Besides purchasing books, people go there simply to enjoy family life ensured by the spectacular view of the city, restaurants and fast food outlets, children’s playground within the deep dry moat and concerts in the evenings, attended mainly by a young festive You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 28 PRODUCED BY .COM VISUAL ARTS Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes Edificio de Arte Cubano Through January 2015 Bésame mucho Solo exhibition by Eduardo Ponjuán, National Art prizewinner 2013, made up of large paintings and 3-D works that show a novel visual morphology in his career. Regarding the title, Bésame mucho, or Kiss Me a Lot, the artist has said: “I have always liked this bolero by Mexican composer very much for its lyrics…the notion that in face all things transient, fleeting, ephemeral, of the end of things, a simple kiss can make one go on living.” Centro de Arte Contemporáneo Wifredo Lam Through Frebuary 6, 2015 Quisiera ser Wifredo Lam…… pero no se va a poder A retrospective of Flavio Garciandía’s work, with over 70 pieces created from 1973 to 2014, now in the hands of private collector and the Cuban State. Drawings, videos, paintings and installations illustrate the different phases of this important artist and teacher. Radical and inquisitive, F. Garciandía has always paid close attention to the latest trends in contemporary visual arts. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 29 PRODUCED BY .COM Casa Oswaldo Guayasamín THROUGH JANUARY 17 Centro de Desarrollo de las Artes Visuales Con-tenido. Artist Sandra Pérez Lozano, focused especially on installations from multiple visual resources and based on an introspective study of the causes and consequences of repression, deals with repression as a method of education, indoctrination and mastery of human social behavior. THROUGH JANUARY 17 Polite & B_Side. Solo exhibition by Luis Gómez, in which he reflects on the relations of power in artistic circles through physical works and documentation of multiple negotiation processes. Biblioteca Pública Rubén Martínez Villena THROUGH JANUARY 4 Prólogo para una historia del arte cubano (Volumen II). Making use of theatrical scenography, Eduardo Ponjuán, focuses on the metaphor of art as a spell in which an exchange between the artist and the viewers, and vice versa, is established. La piel que habla. Solo exhibition by Roberto Diago, who conveys the pain, resistance and selfassertion of Afro-Cuban culture from a minimalistic point of view bordering with abstraction while referring to black skin. Casa de Asia Manipulación mediática y autotelia en el arte cubano contemporáneo. Group exhibition curated by Israel Castellanos, who was awarded Estudio 21 Curatorship Scholarship for this project given its theme which required long hours of research, unprecedented in the history of Cuban art. THROUGHOUT Universo de rocío. Cuba and Japan JANUARY joined in poetry and painting through some 20 ink wash paintings by Miguel Ángel Anaya, Centro Provincial de Artes Plásticas y Diseño THROUGH JANUARY 20 Salón de la Ciudad 2014. The organizers have invited a group of artists who have a noteworthy oeuvre and have exhibited previously at the Center throughout its three decades of existence. Síndrome de Estocolmo (ECÚMENE). Performance by Jorge Luis Marrero, in which ideas are mixed together and superimposed. Galería La Acacia Galería Artis 718 THROUGHOUT Luis Enrique Camejo exhibits his JANUARY first bronze sculptures made in THROUGH JANUARY 18 Miami in 2014. Galería Espacio Abierto THROUGHOUT Re-verso. Solo exhibition by artist JANUARY Antonio Núñez. Galería Habana THROUGH JANUARY 9 La mesa está servida. Works by Rolando Quintero Capote, mostly installations, that allow a direct a dynamic interaction between the artist and the iewer. Palabras. Exhibition by Santiago Rodríguez Olazábal, in which he establishes an infinite and multiple dialogue with the orishas of the Yoruba pantheon. You’ve Homostalias Arquea-Appaloosa. Paintings, artwork in resin, drawings and video-installation are the mediums used by Glauber Ballestero to show, with a dose of irony, the risks, agonies and devastation one must go through to reach a state of harmoiny and balance in which only pure sensations are perceived. Restaurante El Templete THROUGH JANUARY 17 Litoral. Show by Ileana Mulet of a group of oil paintings whose theme is Cuba’s coast reinterpreted through her exquisite sensitivity and her imaginary along with poems dedicated by the artist to José Martí. contents waited Long Enough PAGE 30 PRODUCED BY .COM Galería Latinoamericana. Casa de las Américas THROUGH JANUARY 19 Galería Villa Manuela Nature Boy: Edel Rodríguez en la Casa. First solo exhibition in Cuba by Cuban-American designer Edel Rodríguez. Graphic design and art meet in this show, made up by 40 posters conceived for theater festivals, Broadway shows, operas and films; drawings and original books; and a digital sample of illustrations and covers for different magazines he has worked for, including Time magazine. Galería Servando Cabrera Moreno THROUGHOUT El sur del cielo. Show by ceramist JANUARY Joan Alvad. You’ve THROUGH JANUARY 18 El peso de la Historia. In his constant exploration into History, Reynier Leyva Novo uses the laws put into practice by the Revolution in 1959 and the recent changes occurred in the island according to new circumstances are the focus of his exhibition. A computer program calculates the area, volume and weight of the ink used to print those documents, which are projected on the gallery’s walls. . Memorial José Martí OPENS JANUARY 8 18 artistas cubanos de hoy.This exhibition of works from the collection of Spanish Luciano Méndez includes pieces by both acclaimed and young artists who have just begin to exhibit fot the first time: Luis E. Camejo Elizabet Cerviño, Daniela Díaz, Roberto Fabelo, Moisés Finalé, Carlos Guzmán, Alexis Leiva Machado (Kcho), Cristian López, Manuel Mendive, Mabel Poblet, Carlos Quintana, Ernesto Rancaño, Gabriel y Leticia Sánchez Toledo, Serón, Alfredo Sosabravo, Ana Toledo and Diego Torres . contents waited Long Enough PAGE 31 PRODUCED BY .COM PHOTOGRAPHY Convento de San Francisco de Asís Throughout January Mascarada. Exhibition of Italian photographer Alfredo Cannatello Sala L´Escalier de l´Art. Alianza Francesa de Cuba Through January 20 Imágenes de barrios de Silvio Rodríguez. Pictures taken by the Cuban singer-songwriter Silvio Rodríguez during his concerts around different neighborhoods around Cuba since 2010. “I have been fortunate to be in circumstances and places that have been beautiful, dramatic and sometimes terrible. This is the material which these photographs are made of,” said Silvio at the opening. citadels to its current image of a degraded environment. Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Edificio de Arte Cubano Throughout January Cómo lo vemos a usted (y cómo nos ven). Artists Jeffrey Cárdenas and Yanela Piñeiro opened two photographic studios at Plaza Vieja in July 2014. During this time, they photographed approximately 600 people. Each artist, separately, selected the image that best depicted the subject’s personality and created diptychs with both pictures. As a whole, the photographs express the diversity of biotypes, genotypes and even characters that can be found in Havana today. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 32 PRODUCED BY .COM DANCE Como el primer día. Resplandor de tacones Teatro Martí Jan 23 & 24 8:30pm; Jan 25, 5pm Show by the Ballet Español de Cuba, directed by Eduardo Veitía, which approaches Spanish dance respecting its particularities while incorporating techniques from classical, modern and contemporary dance. La magia de la danza Teatro Nacional. Sala Covarrubias Jan 1, 3, 9 & 10, 8:30pm; Jan 4 & 11, 5pm Concert program by the Ballet Nacional de Cuba with The Magic of Dance, an anthology of great moments of 19th-century choreographies in versions by Alicia Alonso and the Cuban School of Ballet, including Giselle, The Sleeping Beauty, The Nutcracker, Coppelia, Don Quixote, Swan Lake and The Gottschalk Symphony, the latter an example of the most recent Cuban choreography that shows the possibilities of classical dance with the Cuban identifying nature. In the principal roles: Viengsay Valdés, Anette Delgado, Sadaise Arencibia, Yanela Piñera, Amaya Rodríguez, Dani Hernández, José Losada, Grettel Morejón, Arián Molina, Jessie Domínguez, Camilo Ramos, Dayesi Torrientes, Ginett Moncho, Lissi Báez, Serafín Castro and Alfredo Ibáñez, accompanied by soloists and corp de ballet. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 33 PRODUCED BY .COM MUSIC CONTEMPORARY FUSION Club Habana Party Photo Alex Mene The contemporary fusion and electronic music scene has expanded recently as new bars and clubs have opened party promoters have organized events in parks and public spaces. Good live music venues include Bertolt Brecht (Wed: Interactivo, Sunday: Déjá-vu) and El Sauce (check out the Sunday afternoon Máquina de la Melancolía) as well as the newly opened Fábrica de Arte Cubano which has concerts most nights Thursday through Sunday as well as impromptu smaller performances inside. In Havana’s burgeoning entertainment district along First Avenue from the Karl Marx theatre to the aquarium you are spoilt for choice with the always popular Don Cangreco featuring good live music (Kelvis Ochoas and David Torrens alternate Fridays), Las Piedras (insanely busy from 3am) and El Palio and Melem bar—both featuring different singers and acts in smaller more intimate venues. Café Cantante, Teatro Nacional Fresa y Chocolate TUESDAYS Mariana y La Maquinaria Aceituna Sin Hueso SUNDAYS 5 pm 10 pm THURSDAYS Elaín Morales Havana Hard Rock 5 pm Café Concert El Sauce SUNDAYS 5 pm La Máquina de la Melancolía, with Frank Delgado and Luis Alberto García Soul Train, a show of soul music SAT & SUN Cover bands 10 pm Club Turf THURSDAYS Tercera y 8 MONDAYS EVERY OTHER FRIDAY Baby Lores Djoy 10 pm 11 pm You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 34 PRODUCED BY .COM MUSIC CONTEMPORARY FUSION Café Corner THURSDAYS Diablo Tun Tun Tesis de Menta WEDNESDAYS Karamba, 10:30 pm Jardines del teatro Mella 5 pm 11 pm Con100cia 4 pm Piano Bar Habaneciendo THURSDAYS Gens y SUNDAYS 4 PM JAN 22 FRIDAYS Berazaín 5 pm Ruta 11 and guests JAN 7 5 PM Adrián Ernesto Blanco Proyecto Urbano Gens La Madriguera Aire Limpio Con100cia JAN 15 11 PM 8:30 PM SUNDAYS Fusión Latina JAN 28 5 pm El Prófugo 5 pm Centro Cultural Bertolt Brecht WEDNESDAYS Roberto Carcassés and Interactivo 10 pm Submarino Amarillo Fábrica de Arte Cubano 10 PM DJ Iván Lejardi / Concert by Ernesto Blanco JAN 2 Concert by Dejavu JAN 1 WEDNESDAYS Dimensión Vertical 10 pm 9 pm JAN 3 SUNDAYS, Los Kents 9 pm Concert by Síntesis 10 pm JAN 4 Concert by Gerardo Alfonso 10 pm You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 35 PRODUCED BY .COM Photo by Alex Mene SALSA / TIMBA Casa de la Música Habana MONDAYS Casa de la Música de Miramar 5 pm Habana C 11 pm Havana Show and guests MONDAYS 11 pm TUESDAYS 5 pm Havana de Primera 11 pm La Justicia Sur Caribe WEDNESDAYS 11 pm NG La Banda THURSDAYS 11 pm Charanga Latina THURSDAYS 11 pm Adalberto Alvarez FRIDAYS 5 pm La Nueva Justicia 11 pm Bamboleo FRIDAYS 5 pm El Niño y La Verdad 11 pm NG La Banda SATURDAYS 5 pm Discotemba SUNDAYS 5 pm Bamboleo SUNDAYS 11 pm Havana Show and guests Jardines del 1830 FRIDAYS Piano Bar Tun Tun Azúcar Negra 10 pm THURSDAYS 11 pm NG Jorgito Melodía SATURDAYS 11 pm NG La Banda FRIDAYS 11 pm Chispa y los Cómplices Tercera y 8 WEDNESDAYS Alain Daniel 11 pm Café Cantante, Teatro Nacional FRIDAYS 5 pm Manana Club 11 pm Discotemba You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 36 PRODUCED BY .COM MUSIC JAZZ Jo Jazz © Adam Bernstein - Will Magid gives it his all at Jazz Plaza 2012 November 19-22, 2014, Havana Although some people still see it as a mere preamble to the International Jazz Plaza Festival, Jo Jazz has been gaining in popularity from that distant day in 1998 when the first festival was held on the initiative of the famous musician Chucho Valdés and other enthusiasts. The ever-increasing numbers of Jo Jazz fans are getting ready to enjoy this competition for young Cuban and international jazz musicians and composers from 16 to 30 years of age. Prizewinners have included musicians who today are popular not only in Cuba but abroad, such as Yasek Manzano, Michel Herrera, Yissy Garcia and Harold López-Nussa. Besides the competition, the event will include workshops organized by experts on the subject, concerts and jam sessions in various places in Havana. However, one of the most exciting thing for jazz lovers seems to be to predict, in situ, the birth of future Cuban jazz stars. Café Jazz Miramar Shows: 11 pm - 2am This new jazz club has quickly established itself as one of the very best places to hear some of Cuba’s best musicians jamming. Forget about smoke filled lounges, this is clean, bright—take the fags outside. While it is difficult to get the exact schedule and in any case expect a high level of improvisation when it is good it is very good. A full house is something of a mixed house since on occasion you will feel like holding up your own silence please sign! Nonetheless it gets the thumbs up from us. Asociación Cubana de Derechos de Autor Musical Café Miramar Alexis Bosch (pianist) and Proyecto Jazz Cubano. SATURDAYS JAN 15 6 pm UNEAC JAN 8 2 pm 10 pm Roberto Carcassés (pianist composer) and his trio & Centro Hispano Americano de Cultura Peña La Esquina del Jazz hosted by showman Bobby Carcassés. You’ve JAN 14 2 pm Yasek Manzano (trumpet player) and his group contents waited Long Enough PAGE 37 PRODUCED BY .COM MUSIC BOLERO, FOLKLORE, SON & TROVA Asociación Yoruba de Cuba SATURDAYS Centro Memorial Martin Luther King, Jr. Los Ibellis (Folkloric group) Marta Campos JAN 15 4 pm 4:30 pm Café cantante, Teatro Nacional SATURDAYS El Jelengue de Areíto Waldo Mendoza WEDNESDAYS Trovando, a meeting with good 5 pm Café Concert El Sauce TUESDAYS 8 pm FRIDAYS Plus Trova with Charly Salgado and guests. Frank Delgado 5 pm trova. THURSDAYS Conjunto de Arsenio Rodríguez 5 pm Rumberos de Cuba FRIDAYS 5 pm Timbalaye SUNDAYS 11 pm 5 pm Café Teatro Bertolt Brecht Hotel Telégrafo Rafael Espín and guests JAN 31 Ivette Cepeda. FRIDAYS 4 pm 9:30 pm Casa del Alba Hurón Azul, UNEAC Trovador Eduardo Sosa JAN 2 SATURDAYS 5 pm Bolero Night 9 pm Peña El Canto de Todos, with Vicente Feliú JAN 29 6 pm Pabellón Cuba Peña Tres Tazas with trovador Silvio Alejandro FRIDAYS 4 pm Casa de la Cultura Comunitaria Mirta Aguirre Get-together with trovador Ireno García. JAN 25 5 pm 4 pm Peña Participo with trovador Juan Carlos Pérez Piano Bar Tun Tun (Casa de la Música de Miramar) Casa de la Cultura de Plaza THURSDAYS Peña with Marta Campos. JAN 10 SATURDAY Peña with trovador Ray Fernández 5 pm 7 pm Centro Cultural Habaneciendo SUNDAYS Fresa y Chocolate Filin with Fausto Durán and guests 3pm Trova hosted by Richard Luis and Eric Méndez TUESDAY 6 pm Casa Memorial Salvador Allende THURSDAY Peña La Juntamenta, with trovador Ángel Quintero. JAN 30 5 pm Fernando Becquer 4 pm Centro Iberoamericano de la Décima Casa de la Música Habana SUNDAYS Yoruba Andabo 5 pm JAN 3 3 pm JAN 25 5 pm You’ve Duo Ad Libitum El Jardín de la Gorda with trovadors from every generation contents waited Long Enough PAGE 38 PRODUCED BY .COM CLASSICAL MUSIC Photo by Ivan Soca Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís JAN 8 6 pm JAN 10 6 pm JAN 17 6 pm JAN 24 6 pm Concert with the Vocal Leo chorus, conducted by Corina Campos, and pianists Jorge Luis Pacheco and Marialy Pacheco. Pianist Eralys Fernández, with guest soprano Elina Calvo and guest musicians cellist Alejandro Martínez, clarinetist/saxophonist Alejandro Calzadilla and percussionist Eugenio Arango, will perform works by Bach, Brahms, Saúl Cosentino, Astor Piazzolla, Carlos Gardel, Lucio Dalla and Eralys Fernández. Soprano Johana Simón, along with Bryan López, Eleomar Cueto, Roger Quintana, Alioska Rodríguez, Milagros de los Ángeles and pianists Ana Magdalena, Marita Rodríguez and Yanner Rascón, will give a program based on lieder by Beethoven, Schubert, Strauss, Brahms and Wagner. The Orquesta de Cámara de La Habana, conducted by Daiana García, will play works by Bach, Mendelssohn and Reger. Casa del ALBA Cultural JAN 4 En Confluencia, conducted by guitarists Eduardo and Galy Martín. 5 pm JAN 11 Tarde de Concierto, conducted by soprano Lucy Provedo. 5 pm JAN 18 De Nuestra América, conducted by pianist Alicia Perea. 5 pm JAN 25 Concert by guitarist Rosa Matos. 5 pm You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 39 PRODUCED BY .COM Biblioteca Nacional José Martí SATURDAYS Concerts with chamber soloists and ensembles. 4 pm Iglesia de Paula Organists Gabriela Mulen and David Pérez will play works from the 16th-18th Latin American repertoire. JAN 8 7 pm Oratorio San Felipe Neri JAN 9 & 16 7 pm Concerts with the Lyceum Mozartiano de La Habana and the Symphony Orchestra of the University of the Arts. Violist Anolan González, along with harpist Maite Rodríguez, flutist Alberto Rosas, soprano Alioska Jiménez and pianist Vilma Garriga will play works by Debussy, Vierne and Brahms. JAN 10 7 pm Sala Covarrubias, Teatro Nacional SUNDAYS Concerts with the National Symphony Orchestra. 11 pm Sala Gonzalo Roig. Palacio del Teatro Lírico Nacional JAN 25 Cuerda Dominical, with guitarist Luis Manuel Molina 5 pm Sala Ignacio Cervantes JAN 11 6 pm JAN 18 6 pm JAN 25 6 pm Pianist Erarys Fernández, and guests Alejandro Calzadilla (clarinet-saxophone), Elina Calvo (soprano) and Diego Carneiro (cello) have announced the concert La voz del tango, (The Voice of Tango) with works by Erarys Fernández, Astor Piazzolla, Aníbal Troilo, Saúl Cosentino, Ariel Ramírez and Carlos Gardel. The Solistas de La Habana, chamber orchestra conducted by Iván Valiente; Vocal Leo chamber, choir directed by Corina Campos, and the Camerata Vocale Sine Nomine, conducted by Leonor Suárez, and the participation of a group of operatic singers, will perform works bt the Cuban composer Beatriz Corona. National Opera Concert. Famous lieder by Mozart, Brahms, Mendelssohn, Schubert and Pergolesi, among other composers, sung by the Teatro Lírico Nacional directed by Dennise Falcón and soprano María Felicia Pérez,. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 40 PRODUCED BY .COM THEATRE La catedral del helado Teatro del Sol / Production: Sara María Cruz Tue-Thurs, 8:30pm Sala Adolfo Llauradó Monologue based on the short story El lobo, el bosque y el hombre nuevo written by Senel Paz, which was also the bassi to Tomás Gutiérrez Alea’s Oscar-nominated film Fresa y chocolate. Performed by the young actor Manuel Alejandro Rivera, the play is a criticism on homophobia and intolerance, and a hymn to friendship and understanding among people. Sábado corto Teatro D’Dos / Production: Julio César Ramírez Fri & Sat 8:30pm; Sun 5pm Teatro Raquel Revuelta Well known Costumbrismo play (local everyday life, customs and manners) written by the Cuban playwright Héctor Quintero. Cloaca El Ingenio / Production: Juan Carlos Cremata Fri & Sat 8:30pm; Sun 5pm Sala Adolfo Llauradó Considered one of the most successful plays of Dutch theater, this piece by playwright María Goos, deals with the friendship of four adult men and what has remained in common among them when life and commitments lead them to assume different attitudes. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 41 PRODUCED BY .COM MUSICAL THEATER Broadway returns to Havana Friday-Sunday, 8:00pm Teatro Bertolt Brecht Broadway returns to Havana. Rent, a rock musical based on Puccini’s La Bohème, tells the story of a group of impoverished young artists and musicians struggling to survive and create in New York City’s Lower East End under the shadow of HIV/IUDS. This Spanish language production of Rent is being produced by Nederlander Worldwide Entertainment in partnership with the Cuban National Council of Performing Arts and is the first Broadway musical with a full cast, musicians and first-class production elements to be staged in Cuba in over 50 years. Andy Señor, Jr., who directs a company of 15 Cuban actors, is a leading member of Broadway’s Cuban American community. He first starred as “Angel” in Rent on Broadway and later directed productions of the show in numerous places around the world. The Cuba production of Rent also features choreography by Marcus Paul James, musical direction by Emmanuel Schvartzman, sound design by Michael Catalan, and costume design by Angela Wendt. Thom Schilling is production manager. The Phantom of the Opera Sat & Sun, 9pm, Anfiteatro de La Habana Vieja Alfonso Menéndez celebrates his 30th anniversary in show business with The Phantom of the Opera, the famous musical by Andrew Lloyd Webber. Menéndez is responsible for the script, Spanish version and production of the musical. The main roles will be interpreted by Maylú Hernández/ Marla Pileta as Christine; José Luis Pérez/Andrés Sánchez as The Phantom; and Rigoberto López/ Rogelio Rivas as Raoul, who will be accompanied by a cast of young singers, many of whom are newcomers to the stage. Also participating in the production are the Ballet de la Televisión Cubana and the Ballet de Bertha Casañas. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 42 PRODUCED BY .COM FOR KIDS Meñique La Colmenita Jan 24, 10am Museo Casa Natal de José Martí The popular children’s theater group La Colmenita will present Meñique, authored by Laboulaye, in a version by José Martí. Siempre Havana Circo Nacional de Cuba Sat & Sun, 4pm & 7pm Carpa Trompoloco Brand new circus show for the autumn with exciting acts combined with the vernacular humor that the first circuses in Cuba were based on. The kids will love the clowns, the trained animals, the fire-eaters, as well as other highly skilled acts, such as aerial silk, tumbling and trampoline, juggling, acrobatics, and much more. Los Ibellis y el diablo El Arca Fri, Sat & Sun, 3pm Teatro de títeres El Arca Reopening of the multi-prizewinning solo show written by Adalett Rafael Pérez Pupo, based on an Afro-Cuban legend about two twin brothers who manage to beat the devil’s prepotency through shrewdness, intelligence and games. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 43 PRODUCED BY .COM EVENTS IN HAVANA Taller Práctico Internacional de la Danza Moderna Cubana Winter Workshop: January 5-16, 2015 Summer Workshop: August 3-18, 2015 Teatro Nacional de Cuba The two-week long International Workshop on Cuban Modern Dance, Cubadanza, aimed at professional dancers and students, teaches different Cuban popular rhythms and dances from which Cuban modern dance draws on and shows how the pelvic region and the undulation of the torso, among other characteristics, are the fundamental basis of the Cuban technique of modern dance. According to the availability of the company for the period in which the workshop will take place, it will possible to attend rehearsals and demonstrative lessons with first dancers of Danza Contemporánea de Cuba. Classes will be held Monday-Saturday on the first week and Monday-Friday the second week from 9am to 2pm. The subjects that will be taught are Cuban Modern Dance Technique, Cuban Folklore, Traditional and Popular Dances, Barre Technique, Choreography Workshops and Methodology for Teaching Cuban Modern Dance. Details of registration options and fees: 1. Two hours daily of Cuban modern dance technique, Cuban traditional and popular dances, Cuban folklore, choreography workshops, barre technique, lectures, talks, etc/ (CUC 250 p/person). 2. The same as above plus Methodology for teaching Cuban modern dance (CUC 300 p/person). Students will get a 10% discount with the presentation of an official document proving they are students. The fee includes the diploma and certificate. For more information: http://www.dccuba.com/index.php/es/taller-cubadanza.html You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 44 PRODUCED BY .COM EVENTS IN HAVANA FolkCuba. Laboratorios Internacionales de Folklore de Cuba January 19-February 2 Conjunto Folklórico Nacional de Cuba Sponsored by the Conjunto Folklórico Nacional de Cuba, the two-week long FolkCuba, International Folklore Laboratories, is held twice a year in January and July in which experts in Cuban folklore dances teach Cuban dances and music of African and Spanish origin, as well as the principal Cuban percussion instruments. The “secrets” of mambo, cha-cha-cha, rumba, mozambique, pilón, conga, and dances and drum beating related to African religious rites are revealed by outstanding figures of the Conjunto Folklórico Nacional de Cuba. XIX Taller de Antropología Social y Cultural Afroamericana y VIII Encuentro de Oralidad Festival Afropalabra January 5-8 (Havana); January 9-10 (Matanzas) The opening of the cultural year at Havana’s Historical Center will be marked by the 19th Workshop on Afro-American Social and Cultural Anthropology with the presence of academicians and researchers, and the 8th African Word Festival, which will be dedicated to Vitalia Oviedo, “Old Havana’s Storyteller,” and to the Decade of Afro-descendants, with the presence of Cuban and international artists from all manifestations of the arts, including the Senegalese Prince Mamour Ba, who is a composer, vocalist, arranger, teacher, dancer and percussionist, who now lives in Brazil. religious rites are revealed by outstanding figures of the Conjunto Folklórico Nacional de Cuba. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 45 PRODUCED BY .COM PROGRAM 19th Workshop on Afro-American Social and Cultural Anthropology, and 8th African Word Festival Jan 5, 2015 Opening of the 19th Workshop on Afro-American Social and Cultural Anthropology and 8th African Word Festival. Special performance by narrators Mirta Portillo and Lucas Nápoles Opening of exhibition by Italian photographer Alfredo Cannatello. CASA DE ÁFRICA 9 am CASA DE AFRICA & CASA BENITO JUÁREZ 11am-1pm / 2:30-5:30pm Committee sessions Jan 6, 2015 CASA DE AFRICA Introductory words by the City Historian, Dr. Eusebio Leal Spengler. Lecture by MSc. Ramón Torres Zayas: “Abakuá: ¿ekue entemesoro?”. Committee sessions 10am 11am PLAZA DE SAN FRANCISCO Epiphany: Recalling an old tradition, the Afro-Cuban Council will tour the principal plazas of the Historic Center. Performances by children and youth ensemble under the Quisicuaba Sociocultural Project, Gigantería and the Piquete de Santiago de las Vegas 2:30pm PLAZA VIEJA Performances by Rumba Morena, Fanm Zetwal and Makuta, exponents of African and Caribbean culture. 3 pm CASA DE AFRICA Culrtural gala with the special performance of the artists participating in the Afropalabra Festival. 7 pm Jan 7, 2015 CASA DE AFRICA Opening of the exhibition by photographers Elio Delgado and Marco Marini. 9:30am CASA DE AFRICA & CASA BENITO JUÁREZ 10am-1pm / 2:30-5:30pm CASA DE LA POESÍA Opening of the exhibition El Plante by the Mujeres Trabajando art group. Committee sessions 7 pm Jan 8, 2015 CASA SIMÓN BOLÍVAR Opening of the exhibition of the artist Alexis Cardona 9:30am CASA DE ÁFRICA Committee sessions 10am-1pm CASA BENITO JUÁREZ 2:30pm CASA DE AFRICA 5:30pm You’ve Opening of the exhibition Mujeres afrodescendientes en México, by photographer Janette Housman Closing ceremony of the Workshop with the master lecture “The Decade of Afrodescendants and the promotion of racial equality in Brazil” by Mr. Albino Ernesto Poli Junior, minister advisor of the Brazilian Embassy in Cuba. Special performance by the group Brasilua, and opening of Vida cotidiana, an exhibition of tapestries by contents waited Long Enough PAGE 46 PRODUCED BY .COM AROUND CUBA Festival de la Trova Longina January 7-11, 2015 Santa Clara In remembrance of one of the greats of traditional Cuban trova, Manuel Corona, and his immortal song “Longina,” trovadors of different generations and from all over Cuba have shared the stage for 18 years during the Festival de la Trova Longina. The event includes concerts and informal get-togethers at La Caridad Theater, the famous El Mejunje Cultural Center, the Museo de Artes Decorativas and Casa del Joven Creador in the afternoons and evenings; theoretical meetings and the traditional walk to Corona’s grave. The rumor that Argentine folk rock performer, composer and interpreter León Gieco might be performing at this year’s Longina Festival has trova fans on tenterhooks. Gieco, who is often called “The Argentine Bob Dylan” is the author of the emblematic Solo le pido a dios (I Only Ask of God) and other cult songs, has visited Cuba on other occasions with great success. However, Gieco is not the only attraction. The popular La Trovuntivitis project from Villa Clara will be opening the festival, and singer-songwriters Tony Ávila and Roly Berrío will also be participating. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 47 PRODUCED BY .COM January 27 Marcha de las Antorchas: A tribute to José Martí Photos by Alex Mene by Ricardo Alberto Pérez The writings of one man have enlightened and inspired Cubans for over a century. This man is José Martí, and every year on January 27, students and workers gather together to celebrate his birth in the Marcha de las Antorchas—March of the Torches. José Martí was born in Havana and vigorously opposed injustice and oppression from a very early age. As an adolescent, his unwavering commitment to the full dignity of man earned him a prison sentence, being subjected to forced labor in the quarries. But prison did not deter him. His continual confrontation with the Spanish colonial government forced him to spend most of his short life—45 years—in political exile. Cuban literature was enriched by Martí’s simple, fluent style and his personal, vivid imagery. His writings include poems, newspaper articles, reviews, letters, diaries, essays and political writings, which have been gathered in over 50 volumes in Martí’s Obras Completas [Complete Works]. While Martí’s poetry is considered by many as the precursor of the Spanish-American literary movement known as Modernismo, he is also considered the founder of modern political thought in Cuba. After all, he created the Cuban Revolutionary Party and organized the “necessary war” of 1895. You’ve In 1953, on the centenary of his birth, the Federation of University Students decided to pay tribute to Martí’s memory in what would become known as the March of the Torches. On the eve of January 28, people filled the streets to show their civic attitude as well as the significance of the day. This act had added meaning because it occurred during the dictatorship of Fulgencio Batista, who seized power through a military coup, assumed the presidency and suspended the Constitution in 1952. At 11:30 pm on Tuesday, January 27, a huge mass of torch-bearing youth descended the steps of the University of Havana to march through the streets. The human avalanche completed their journey shortly after midnight upon their arrival at the quarries where the 17-year-old Martí had served his sentence. contents waited Long Enough PAGE 48 PRODUCED BY .COM After the Revolution of 1959, the March of the Torches acquired a more festive mood. Today, many of the students who take part in the march are driven by the festive atmosphere and not necessarily the true meaning of the celebration. Sixty years after the first march, however, one thing is certain: the streets of Havana continue to fill with youth holding torches on the evening of January 27. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 49 PRODUCED BY .COM January 28, 1853: Birth of José Martí by Victoria Alcalá If there is one date that unites all Cubans of any ideology or origin, it is January 28 when we celebrate the birthday of the Apostle of national independence, José Martí, who was born in 1853, on Paula Street in Havana, in the house that is currently marked with number 314. Poet, journalist, orator, essayist, translator, José Martí is not only the most significant literary figure of the 19th century in Cuba, he was also the organizer of the Cuban Revolutionary Party against Spanish colonialism. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 50 PRODUCED BY .COM On January 28, the words of the greatest of all Cubans take on special significance in day-care centres and schools of all levels of education, and students and workers set off on the evening of January 27 from the University of Havana on a pilgrimage to Central Park, where the first statue erected in Cuba in his memory still stands. Besides his literary work, he organized the Cuban Revolutionary Party, the political body which brought together the patriots that were willing to wager an all-out military effort against Spanish colonialism until independence was gained. Killed in combat at Dos Ríos in the eastern part of Cuba in 1895, Martí would not get to see the results of the recently begun war that would end in 1898, although a period of US intervention would delay the proclamation of the Republic until May 20, 1902. Paradoxically, the architect of Cuba’s independence lived very little on home soil. At the age of 16 he served time in prison in Havana and was later exiled in the Isle of Pines before being banished in 1871 to Spain where he studied Civil Law, and Philosophy and Letters at the Universities of Madrid and Zaragoza. He lived in Mexico and Guatemala from 1875 to 1878, making a brief, clandestine visit to the island in early 1877. He returned to Havana in August 1878, but was again banished in September 1879, and settled down in New York where he would live, with a brief stay in Venezuela, until 1895. That year he travelled to the Dominican Republic where he organized an expedition that landed on Playitas de Cajobabo in Baracoa on April 11, 1895. You’ve Despite having lived most of his life outside his homeland, no one has stirred among their countrymen devotion comparable to that for José Martí, to the point that the house where he was born was bought in 1901 through public donations for Martí’s mother, Canarian-born Leonor Pérez, widow of Valencian Mariano Martí. When Dona Leonor passed away, the small house became the property of the Cuban people and was devoted to honour the memory of the National Hero. The modest dwelling, which opened as a museum on January 28, 1925, was established as a National Monument in 1949. It holds many personal belongings of the great intellectual and political leader who lived there only a few years. What child in Havana can say that they have never visited “Martí’s little house” as it is popularly known? My father took me there on my first visit almost 50 years ago while almost 15 years have passed since I took my own child on his first visit there. Usually talkative and spirited, and accustomed to visiting imposing museums and cultural institutions in Old Havana, my son grew silent and whispered in my ear: “Martí was so poor!” as if he found it difficult to associate the beauty of Martí’s poems, which he had heard and learned since he was very little, with the unpretentious and modest dwelling. Unknowingly, he was paying tribute to the austerity of the man who had ratified with his death what he had proclaimed in his verses: “With the poor people of the earth / I want to share my fate,” the man who every January 28 is remembered by good Cubans, wherever they are. contents waited Long Enough PAGE 51 PRODUCED BY .COM HM7 is not the nickname of a famous athlete or some secret code name. It is, though, a symbol of tranquility and relaxation—a newly discovered, little known formula for a perfect evening. HM7 is one of the restaurants that have recently opened in Havana, the fruit of private initiative in Cuba. Habana Mía 7 is located on the beautiful tree-lined Paseo Avenue, approximately 100 meters from the Malecón, in the Vedado District. A steep but small staircase takes us to the restaurant’s two rooms. We enter the one on the left where we are greeted with tropical-colored cocktails from the bar, which has a wide selection of whiskies, Cuban rum, vodka and gin. Very close to the bar is a balcony with comfortable tall chairs, great for enjoying the soft breeze from the ocean or simply people-watching. Today, the balcony is filled with a group of friends who chose the restaurant for their yearly reunion, two lovers and three young men who can’t help flirting with the pretty waitress who brought their drinks. My first impression is that I am in the cleanest place in Havana. Immaculately clean, prying eyes will have a hard time finding fault with the place. Everything is in plain sight, including the kitchen that shows the chef and his team at work. A glass separates the kitchen from the guests seated in the second room, to the right. The service is friendly and polite, but not overbearing. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 52 PRODUCED BY .COM The starters anticipate a dinner that promises to be wonderful. Its international gourmet food includes fresh seafood from the Tropics, splendid Mediterranean dishes and the best cuts of beef, South American style. Fresh vegetables and fruit, and attractive desserts are part of a carefully designed menu. The sommelier will recommend the best wine with your food, while he teaches a younger sommelier the secrets of the profession. Elegance could very well be the code word for HM7, a perfect place for a romantic dinner. HM7 is open until three in the morning, and at that time, when very few places in Havana are open, the Chef will prepare a full dinner, or a snack to accompany your last cocktail or glass of wine. I heartily recommend HM7, an excellent formula for a perfect evening. You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 53 PRODUCED BY .COM Havana’s best places to eat La Guarida El Atelier CA 5 Bella Ciao CA 4+ Café Bohemia CA 5 Café Laurent CA 4+ EXPERIMENTAL FUSION HOMELY ITALIAN CAFÉ SPANISH/MEDITERRANEAN Interesting décor, interesting menu. Great service, good prices. A real home from home. Bohemian feel. Great sandwiches, salads & juices Attractive penthouse restaurant with breezy terrace. Calle 5 e/ Paseo y 2, Vedado (+53) 7-836-2025 Calle 19 y 72, Playa (+53) 7-206-1406 Calle San Ignacio #364, Habana Vieja Calle M #257, e/ 19 y 21, Vedado (+53) 7-831-2090 La California La Casa Casa Miglis El Chanchullero CA CA 5 CA 5 CA 5 5 CUBAN-CREOLE/INTERNATIONAL CONTEMPORARY FUSION SWEDISH-CUBAN FUSION SPANISH/MEDITERRANEAN Beautiful C19 colonial building. Great fresh pastas. VIP service. The Robaina family place. Thurs Sushi night. Oasis of good food & taste in Centro Habana Fabulous value hole in the wall tapas. Trendy. Calle Crespo #55 e/ San Lázaro y Refugio, Centro Habana (+53) 7-863 7510 Calle 30 #865 e/ 26 y 41, Nuevo Vedado (+53) 7-881-7000 Lealtad #120 e/ Ánimas y Lagunas, Centro Habana (+53) 7-864-1486 Teniente Rey #457 bajos, Plaza del Cristo, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-872-8227 Le Chansonnier CA El Cocinero Corte Príncipe CA 4 CA 5 5+ Il Divino CA 4+ CONTEMPORARY FUSION INTERNATIONAL ITALIAN INTERNATIONAL Stylish & contemporary with good food. Expensive. Industrial chic alfresco rooftop with a buzzing atmosphere Sergio’s place. Simple décor, spectacular food. Set in huge gardens outside town. Great for the kids. Calle J #257 e/ Línea y 15, Vedado (+53) 7-832-1576 Calle 26, e/ 11 y 13, Vedado. (+53) 7-832-2355 Calle 9na esq. a 74, Miramar (+53) 5-255-9091 Calle Raquel, #50 e/ Esperanza y Lindero, Arroyo Naranjo (+53) 7-643-7734 D. Eutimia Esperanza La Fontana La Guarida CA 5+ CA 4+ CA 4 CA 5+ CUBAN/CREOLE CUBAN FUSION INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL Absolutely charming. Excellent Cuban/creole food. Intimate, idiosyncratic & charming (not cheap). Consistently good food, attentive service. Old school. Justifiably famous. Follow in the footsteps of Queen of Spain Callejón del Chorro #60C, Plaza de la Catedral, Habana Vieja (+53) 7 861 1332 Calle 16 #105 e/ 1ra y 3ra, Miramar (+53) 7-202-4361 Calle 46 #305 esq. a 3ra, Miramar (+53) 7-202-8337 Concordia #418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar, Centro Habana (+53) 7-866-9047 Habana Mia 7 Iván Chef El Litoral Nautilus CA 5 CA 5+ CA 5+ CA 5 INTERNATIONAL GOURMET SPANISH INTERNATIONAL FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Endless summer nights. Excellent food and service. Brilliantly creative and rich food. Watch the world go by at the Malecón’s best restaurant. Imaginative, tasty and innovative menu. Paseo #7 altos e/ 1ra y 3ra. Vedado (+53) 7-830-2287 Aguacate #9 esq. a Chacón, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-863-9697 Malecón #161 e/ K y L, Vedado (+53) 7-830-2201 Calle 84 #1116 e/ 11 y 13. Playa (+53) 5-237-3894 Nazdarovie Opera Otra Manera Río Mar CA 5+ CA 5 CA 5 CA 5 SOVIET INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL Well designed Soviet décor, excellent food & good service. Homely & intimate environment. Quality food. By reservation. Beautiful modern decor. Interesting menu and good service. Contemporary décor. Great sea-view. Good food. Calle 5ta #204 e/ E y F, Vedado (+53) 5-263-1632 (+53) 8-31-2255 Calle #35 e/ 20 y 41, Playa. (+53) 7-203-8315 Ave. 3raA y Final #11, La Puntilla, Miramar (+53) 7-209-4838 Santy Starbien VIP Havana Malecon #25, 3rd floor e Prado y Carcel, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-2947 San Cristóbal CA 5 CA 5+ CA 5+ CA 5 CUBAN/CREOLE SUSHI/ORIENTAL SPANISH/MEDITERRANEAN SPANISH Deservedly popular.Consistently great food. Kitsch décor. Authentic fisherman’s shack servicing world-class sushi. Fabulous food and great service in the heart of Vedado. Jordi’s place. Fabulous modern open-plan space. San Rafael #469 e/ Lealtad y Campanario, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-9109 Calle 240A #3023 esq. a 3ra C, Jaimanitas (+53) 5-286-7039 Calle 29 #205 e/ B y C, Vedado (+53) 7-830-0711 Calle 9na #454 e/ E y F, Vedado (+53) 7-832-0178 You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 54 PRODUCED BY .COM La Guarida CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food Contemporary fusion CostExpensive www.laguarida.com Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Authentic, charming and intimate atmosphere in Cuba’s best known restaurant. Great food, professional. Classy. Don’t Miss Uma Thurman, Beyoncé or the Queen of Spain if they happen to be dining next to you. Concordia #418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar, Centro Habana. (+53) 7-866-9047 El Litoral CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food International CostExpensive Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Quality décor, good service and great food. Best new place recently opened. Don’t Miss Drinking a cocktail at sunset watching the world go by on the Malecón Malecón #161 e/ K y L, Vedado. (+53) 7-830-2201 Nazdarovie CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food Soviet CostModerate Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Getting a flavor of Cuban-Soviet history along with babuska’s traditional dishes in a classy locale. Don’t miss Vodka sundowners on the gorgeous terrace overlooking the malecon. Malecon #25 3rd floor e/ Prado y Carcel, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-2947 Iván Chef Justo CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Style of food Spanish CostExpensive Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Spectacular innovative food. Light and airy place where it always seems to feel like Springtime. Don’t Miss The lightly spiced grilled mahimahi served with organic tomato relish. Try the suckling pig and stay for the cuatro leches. Aguacate #9, Esq. Chacón, Habana Vieja. (+53) 7-863-9697 / (+53) 5-343-8540 You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 55 PRODUCED BY .COM La California CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food Cuban-Creole/International CostModerate Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Beautiful C19 colonial building. Popular place with quality food and great service. Love the fresh pastas. Dont’t Miss The interesting history of the neighbourhood, where Chano Pozo (legendary Afro-Cuban jazz percussionist) hung out. Calle Crespo #55 e/ San Lázaro y Refugio, Centro Habana (+53) 7-863-7510 Casa Miglis CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food Swedish-Cuban fusion CostExpensive Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for The beautifully designed interior, warm ambience and Miglis’s personality create the feeling of an oasis in Central Havana. Don’t Miss Chatting with Mr Miglis. The Skaargan prawns, beef Chilli and lingonberries. Lealtad #120 e/ Ánimas y Lagunas, Centro Habana (+53) 7-864-1486 www.casamiglis.com Habana Mía 7 CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food International gourmet CostModerate Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Stylish and fresh décor give a Mediterranean feel for long endless summer nights. Excellent food and service. Don’t miss Watching the world go by on the lovely terrace overlooking the ocean. Paseo #7 altos e/ 1ra y 3ra, Vedado (+53) 7-830-2287 www.habanamia7.com Santy CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food Sushi CostModerate Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Fabulous sushi, wonderful ambience overlooking fishing boats heading out to sea. World class. Don’t miss Getting a reservation here. Calle 240A #3023 esq. 3raC, Jaimanitas (+53) 5-286-7039 You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 56 PRODUCED BY .COM Atelier CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food Experimental fusion CostExpensive Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Interesting menu, beautiful building with great décor and service. Don’t miss Dinner on the breezy terrace during summer. Calle 5ta e/ Paseo y 2, Vedado (+53) 7-836-2025 atelierdedecuba@yahoo.es La Casa CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food International/sushi CostExpensive Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Warm hospitality and openness from the four generations of the Robaina family. Quality food. Don’t miss Thursday night sushi night. The Piña Colada. Calle 30 #865 e/ 26 y 41, Nuevo Vedado. (+53) 7-881-7000 alerobaina@restaurantelacasacuba.com Otra Manera CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food International CostModerate Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Beautiful modern décor and good food. Don’t miss Pork rack of ribs in honey. Sweet & sour sauce and grilled pineapple Calle 35 #1810 e/ 20 y 41, Playa (+53) 7-203-8315 otramaneralahabana@gmail.com reservas@otramaneralahabana.com Opera CA 5 CA TOP PICK Style of food International CostModerate Type of place Private (Paladar) Food Ambience Service Value Best for Best for Homely & Intimate enviroment Quality food in a beautiful setting. Don’t miss Fresh pasta, vegetarian dishes and quail. Calle 5ta #204 e/ E y F, Vedado (+53) 5-263-1632 / (+53) 8-31-2255 You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 57 PRODUCED BY .COM OPERA Best for Homely & Intimate enviroment Quality food in a beautiful setting Don’t miss: Fresh pasta, vegetarian dishes and quail Dinner: 8:00 PM - 12:00 AM Address: Calle 5ta No. 204 e/ E y F. Vedado Lunch by reservation only Tel: 831 2255 Cel: 52631632 Closed on Tuesday opera.cuba@gmail.com La California For Quality Food, impeccable service & an intimate ambience Dine in a beautifully restored 19th-century colonial building just one block away from the emblematic Malecón drive and seawall. La California is located on the place where legendary Cuban percussionist Chano Pozo used to hang out. La California now offers a tour of Havana in a Classic Vintage Car plus lunch or dinner. Your chauffeur will pick you up from your hotel or private accommodation and show you around the historical sights of this incredible city for one hour before heading to La California. Calle Crespo No.55 e/ San Lázaro y Refugio, Centro Habana. Tel (+53) 7 8637510 Superb Cuban-Creole/International menu The offer includes: For reservations, call Welcoming cocktail (+53) 7-863-7510 Bread + surprise extra Chef’s salad California style or Pumpkin Cream topped with parmesan Curry Chicken with apples / traditional Ropa Vieja (shredded meat) / Grilled Fish with fine herbs / Cuban Lamb in red wine & mint tea / Grilled Lobster with sweet potato in caramel & cider (at your choice) Moros y Cristianos (rice and beans) or vegetables Traditional Cuban dessert (flan, sweet potato and rice puddings) Domestic non-alcoholic beverage (water, soda, juice or beer) Price: CUC 38 per person Open daily noon-midnight lacaliforniarestaurant@gmail.com facebook.com/restaurant.lacalifornia OM is Otramanera: “another way” Another way of understanding and enjoying gastronomy in a unique locale where each detail is important. A restaurant that adapts to market availability and to the seasons, serving fresh quality products. Calle 35 #1810 e/ 20 y 41, Playa / (+53) 7-203-8315 otramaneralahabana@gmail.com / reservas@otramaneralahabana.com Executive Menu Every day from 12:00 m to 3:00pm All for 9.90 MAKAROF Borsh soup or Salianka Pelmieni Blinchiki Liquid or coctail KALASHNIKOF Borsh soup or Salianka Galubzy Blinchiki Liquid or coctail KATIUSHKA Borsh soup or Salianka Katlieta Blinchiki Liquid or coctail PUSHKA Montaditos varios Carne rusa Day dessert Liquid or coctail JACK - 40 Montaditos varios Callos a la madrileña Day dessert Liquid or coctail SPUTNIK Montaditos varios Bistec a lo pobre Day dessert Liquid or coctail Address: Calle 20 No. 503 e/ 5ta y 7ma. Miramar Tel: 202 9188 bar.tabarish@gmail.com Sloppy Joe’s Havana’s best Bars & Clubs Traditional Bars El Floridita CA 4+ Hemingway’s daiquiri bar. Touristy but always full of life. Great cocktails. Obispo #557 esq. a Monserrate, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1299 Factoría Plaza Vieja CA 5 Sloppy Joe’s Bar CA 4+ Recently (beautifully) renovated. Full of history. Popular. Lacks a little ‘grime’. Microbrewery. Serves ice chilled bong of light locally brewed beer. San Ignacio esq. a Muralla, Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-866-4453 Ánimas esq. a Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-866-7157 Espacios TaBARish Cervecería CA 5+ ANTIGUO ALMACÉN MADERA Y EL TABACO DE LA Microbrewery located overlooking the restored docks Simply brilliant. Avenida del Puerto y San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja Contemporary Bars El Cocinero CA 5+ Fabulous rooftop setting, great service, cool vibe. Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (+53) 7-832-2355 CA 5- Laid back contemporary bar with a real buzz in the back beer-garden. CA 5 A comfortable place to chat / hang out with your friends. Great service. Calle 10 #510, e/ 5ta y 31, Miramar Calle 20 #503, e/ 5ta y 7ma. Contemporary bars/clubs Don Cangrejo CA 4+ Love it/hate it—this is the oldest Friday night party place and is still going strong. Outdoor by the sea. CA 4 Über modern and stylish indoor bar/club. Miami style crowd and attitude. Calle 94 #110 e/ 1ra y 3ra, Miramar (+53) 7-206-4167 Ave. 1ra e/ 16 & 18, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3837 Other Meliá Sports Bar CA Kpricho 4 Big-screen sports-bar in modern outdoor terrace. Good for sports and live music. Meliá Habana Hotel Ave. 3ra e/ 76 y 80, Miramar (+53) 7-204-8500 Up & Down CA 5 From the team that brought you Sangri-La. Attracting a young party crowd, very popular. Take a coat. Calle 3ra y B, Vedado El Gato Tuerto CA 4+ Late night place to hear fabulous bolero singers. Can get smoky. El Tocororo CA 5+ X Alfonso’s new cultural center. Great concerts, funky young scene. Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (next to the Puente de Hierro) (+53) 5-329-6325 www.facebook.com/fabrica. deartecubano (+53) 7-202-9188 (+53) 7-836-3031 Fábrica de Arte CA 4+ Expat favorite hangout. Small indoor bar with live music and eclectic clientele. Sangri-La CA 5 For the cool kids. Basement bar/club which gets packed at weekends. Ave. 21 e/ 36 y 42, Miramar (+53) 7-264-8343 Bertolt Brecht CA 5 Think MTV Unplugged. Hip, funky and unique with an artsy Cuban crowd. Calle O e/ 17 y 19, Vedado (+53) 7-833-2224 Calle 18 e/ 3ra y 5ta, Miramar Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado (+53) 7-830-1354 Humboldt 52 Fashion Bar Havana Café Bar Madrigal Gay-friendly Cabaret Las Vegas CA 4 Can get dark and smoky but great drag show (11pm) from Divino—one of Cuba’s most accomplished drag acts. Infanta #104 e/ 25 y 27, Vedado. (+53) 7-870-7939 You’ve CA 5 One of the hottest venues for gay nightlife in Havana at present. Humboldt #52 e/ Infanta y Hospital, Centro Habana. (+53) 5-330-2989 CA 5 A superb example of queer class meets camp, accompanied by a fantastic floor show. San Juan de Dios, esq. a Aguacate, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1676 CA 4 Pop décor, fancy cocktails, and the staff’s supercilious attitude, this is a gathering spot for all types of folks. Calle 17 #809 e/ 2 y 4, Vedado (+53) 7-831-2433 contents waited Long Enough PAGE 63 PRODUCED BY .COM Bertolt Brecht CA 5 CA TOP PICK CONTEMPORARY BAR/CLUBS Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Hanging out with hip & funky Cubans who like their live music. Don’t Miss Interactivo playing on a Wednesday evening. Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado (+53) 7-830-1354 Espacios CA 5- CA TOP PICK CONTEMPORARY BAR Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Laid back lounge atmosphere in the garden area which often has live music. Good turnover of people. Don’t Miss Ray Fernandez, Tony Avila, Yasek Mazano playing live sets in the garden. Calle 10 #510 e/ 5ta y 31, Miramar (+53) 7-202-2921 Sangri-La CA 5+ CA TOP PICK CONTEMPORARY BAR/CLUB Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Hanging out with the cool kids on the Havana Farundula in the most popular bar/club. Don’t Miss The best gin and tonic in Havana. Ave. 21 e/ 36 y 42, Miramar (+53) 5-264-8343 Bolabana CA 5 CA TOP PICK CONTEMPORARY Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Trendy new location near Salón Rosado de la Tropical Don’t Miss Hipsters meet the Havana Farándula Calle 39 esq. 50, Playa You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 64 PRODUCED BY .COM Humboldt 52 CA 5 CA TOP PICK GAY FRIENDLY Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for Hot staff, comfortable setting, and welcoming vibe at Havana’s first full-time, openly-gay bar Don’t Miss The disco ball, a talented opera duo performing Wednesdays and karaoke and drag performances other days of the week Humboldt #52 e/ Infanta y Hospital, Centro Habana. (+53) 5-330-2989 Fábrica de Arte CA 5+ CA TOP PICK CONTEMPORARY BAR Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for X Alfonso’s superb new cultural center has something for everyone Don’t Miss Ne pas manquer Les meilleurs musiciens cubains Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (next to the Puente de Hierro) Fashion Bar Havana CA 5 CA TOP PICK GAY-FRIENDLY Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for A superb example of queer class meets camp, accompanied by a fantastic floor show. Don’t Miss The staff performing after 11pm San Juan de Dios, esq. a Aguacate, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1676 TaBARish CA 5 CA TOP PICK CONTEMPORARY BAR/CLUB Ambience Popularity Entertainment Service & drinks Best for A comfortable place to chat / hang out with your friends. Great service. Don’t Miss The homemade Russian soup – just like Matushka makes it. Calle 20 #503, e/ 5ta y 7ma. (+53) 7-202-9188 You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 65 PRODUCED BY .COM Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís Havana’s best live music venues Concert venues Karl Marx Theatre CA 5 World class musicians perform prestigious concerts in Cuba’s best equipped venue. Calle 1ra esq. a 10, Miramar (+53) 7-203-0801 Basílica San CA Francisco de Asís 5 A truly beautiful church, which regularly hosts fabulous classical music concerts. Fábrica de Arte CA 5 X Alfonso’s new cultural center. Great concerts inside (small and funky) and outside (large and popular!). Oficios y Amargura, Plaza de San Francisco de Asís, Habana Vieja Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado (next to the Puente de Hierro) Jazz Café Privé Lounge Sala CovarrubiasCA 5 TEATRO NACIONAL Recently renovated, one of Cuba’s most prestigious venues for a multitude of events. Paseo y 39, Plaza de la Revolución. Jazz Café Jazz Miramar CA 4+ Clean, modern and atmospheric. Where Cuba’s best musicians jam and improvise. Cine Teatro Miramar 10:30pm – 2am Ave. 5ta esq. a 94, Miramar Salsa/Timba Café Cantante Mi Habana CA 4 Attracts the best Cuban musicians. Recently renovated with an excellent new sound system. Ave. Paseo esq. a 39, Plaza de la Revolución (+53) 7-878-4273 Contemporary Café Teatro Bertolt Brecht CA 5 Think MTV Unplugged when musicians play. Hip, funky and unique with an artsy Cuban crowd. Calle 13 e/ I y J, Vedado (+53) 7-830-1354 Trova & traditional Barbaram Pepito’s Bar CA 4+ Some of the best Cuban Nueva Trova musicians perform in this small and intimate environment. CA 5+ Small and intimate lounge club with great acoustics and beautiful decor. Jazz groups play Sunday night. Galerías de Paseo Ave. 1ra e/ Paseo y A, Vedado Calle 88A #306 e/ 3ra y 3raA, Miramar (+53) 7-209-2719 Casa de la Música Casa de la Música CA 4 CA 4 CENTRO HABANA MIRAMAR A little rough around the edges but spacious. For better or worse, this is ground zero for the best in Cuban salsa. Smaller and more up-market than its newer twin in Centro Habana. An institution in the Havana salsa scene. Galiano e/ Neptuno y Concordia, Centro Habana (+53) 7-860-8296/4165 Calle 20 esq. a 35, Miramar (+53) 7-204-0447 Don Cangrejo CA 4+ Love it/hate it—this is the oldest Friday night party place and is still going strong. Outdoor by the sea. Ave. 1ra e/ 16 y 18, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3837 Gato Tuerto CA 4+ Late night place to hear fabulous bolero singers. Can get smoky. Calle O entre 17 y 19, Vedado (+53) 7-833-2224 Calle 26 esq. a Ave. del Zoológico. Nuevo Vedado (+53) 7-881-1808 You’ve CA 4 A staple of Havana’s jazz scene, the best jazz players perform here. Somewhat cold atmosphere-wise. El Sauce CA 5- Great outdoor concert venue to hear the best in contemporary & Nueva Trova live in concert. Ave. 9na #12015 e/ 120 y 130, Playa (+53) 7-204-6428 Legendarios de Guajirito CA 5 See Buena Vista Social Club musicians still performing nightly from 9pm. Touristy but fabulous. Zulueta #660 e/ Apodaca y Gloria, Centro Habana (+53) 7-861-7761 La Zorra y el Cuervo CA 5 Intimate and atmospheric, this basement jazz club, which you enter through a red telephone box, is Cuba’s most famous. Calle 23 e/ N y O, Vedado (+53) 7-833-2402 Salón Rosado de la Tropical CA 5 The legendary beer garden where Arsenio tore it up. Look for a salsa/timba gig on a Sat night and a Sun matinee. Ave. 41 esq. a 46, Playa Times: varies wildly (+53) 7-203-5322 Teatro de Bellas Artes CA 4+ Small intimate venue inside Cuba’s most prestigious arts museum. Modern. Trocadero e/ Zulueta y Monserrate, Habana Vieja. CA 4+ Salón 1930 ‘Compay Segundo’ Buena Vista Social Club style set in the grand Hotel Nacional. Hotel Nacional Calle O esq. a 21, Vedado (+53) 7-835-3896 contents waited Long Enough PAGE 66 PRODUCED BY .COM Havana’s Best Hotels Hotel Nacional de Cuba Simply the best… CA Iberostar Parque Central 5+ Santa Isabel CA 5+ Luxurious historic mansion facing Plaza de Armas Luxury hotel overlooking Parque Central CA 5 Beautifully restored colonial house. CA 5 Cuban baroque meets modern minimalist Obispo #252, esq. a Cuba, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-862-4127 Oficios #152 esq. a Amargura, Habana Vieja Business Hotels Meliá Cohíba Palacio del Marqués... CA 5 Oasis of polished marble and professional calm. Ave Paseo e/ 1ra y 3ra, Vedado (+53) 7- 833-3636 Meliá Habana CA 5 Attractive design & extensive facilities. CA 4 A must for Hemingway aficionados Mercure Sevilla CA 4 Stunning views from the roof garden restaurant. Calle Obispo #153 esq. a Mercaderes, Habana Vieja (+53) 7- 860-9529 Trocadero #55 entre Prado y Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8560 Economical/Budget Hotels Bosque CA 3 On the banks of the Río Almendares. Calle 28-A e/ 49-A y 49-B, Reparto Kohly, Playa (+53) 7-204-9232 You’ve Deauville CA 3 Lack of pretension, great location. Galiano e/ Sán Lázaro y Malecón, Centro Habana (+53) 7-866-8812 5+ Immensely charming, great value. Oficios #53 esq. a Obrapía, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1037 Occidental Miramar CA 5 Malecón esq. a Lealtad, Centro Habana (+53) 7-862-8061 CA 4+ Good value, large spacious modern rooms. Ave. 3ra y 70, Miramar (+53) 5-204-8500 For a sense of history Ambos Mundos Hostal Valencia CA Terral Wonderful ocean front location. Newly renovated. Paseo del Prado #603 esq. a Dragones, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8201 Boutique Hotels in Old Havana Florida CA 5+ Stunning view from roof-top pool. Beautiful décor. Narciso López, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8201 Neptuno e/ Prado y Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-6627 Saratoga Conde de Villanueva CA 5 Delightfully small and intimate. For cigar lovers. Mercaderes #202, esq. a Lamparilla (+53) 7-862-9293 H10 Habana Panorama CA 4+ Cascades of glass. Good wi-fi. Modern. Ave. 5ta. e/ 70 y 72, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3583 Ave. 3ra. y 70, Miramar (+53) 7 204-0100 Hotel Nacional Riviera CA 5 Eclectic art-deco architecture. Gorgeous gardens. CA 3 Spectacular views over wavelashed Malecón Calle O esq. a 21, Vedado (+53) 7-835 3896 Paseo y Malecón, Vedado (+53) 7-836-4051 Saint John’s Vedado CA 3 Lively disco, tiny quirky pool. Popular. Calle O e/ 23 y 25, Vedado (+53) 7-833-3740 CA 3 Good budget option with a bit of a buzz Calle O e/ 23 y 25, Vedado (+53) 7-836-4072 contents waited Long Enough PAGE 67 PRODUCED BY .COM Havana’s best private places to stay Cañaveral House For Help reserving any Private Accommodation (Casas Particulares) in Cuba please contact CubanCasas@gmail.com Mid range - Casa Particular (B&B) 1932 Carlos in cuba CA 4 CA 5 Gay Friendly BED and Breakfast in Havana Visually stunning, historically fascinating. Welcoming. Calle 2 #505 e/ 23 y 21, Vedado (+53) 7-833-1329 (+53) 5-295-4893 carlosincuba@yahoo.com www.carlosincuba.com Campanario #63 e/ San Lázaro y Laguna, Centro Habana (+53) 7-863-6203 Habana CA 5 Beautiful colonial townhouse with great location. Julio y Elsa CA 5 Cluttered bohemian feel. Hospitable. Calle Habana #209, e/ Empedrado, y Tejadillo, Habana Vieja. (+53) 7-861-0253 Consulado #162 e/ Colón y Trocadero, Centro Habana (+53) 7-861-8027 Artedel Hostal Guanabo Up-scale B&Bs (Boutique hostals) Cañaveral House CA But undoubtedly the most beautiful about private homes in Cuba 5 Vitrales 39A street, #4402, between 44 y 46, Playa, La Habana Cuba (+53) 295-5700 http://www.cubaguesthouse. com/canaveral.home. html?lang=en CA 5 Hospitable, attractive and reliable boutique B&B with 9 bedrooms. Habana #106 e/ Cuarteles y Chacón, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-866-2607 CA 5+ Ydalgo Martínez Matos’s spacious and contemporary 3-bedroom penthouse is magnificent. CA 5 Beautiful 4 bedroom seafront villa in sleepy Guanabo. Excellent food. Calle I #260 e/ 15 y 17, Vedado (+53) 5-830-8727 Calle 480 #1A04 e/ 1ra y 3ra, Guanabo (+53) 7-799-0004 Habana Vista Suite Havana Apartment rentals Bohemia Hostal CA 5+ Gorgeous 1-bedroom apartment beautifully decorated apartment overlooking Plaza Vieja. CA 5 Two-storey penthouse b&b with private pool CA 5 Rent Room elegant and wellequipped. Beautiful wild garden and great pool. Calle 17 #1101 e/ 14 y 16, Vedado (+34) 677525361 (+53) 7-832-1927 (+53) 5-360-0456 Casablanca CA 5 Elegant well-equipped villa formerly owned by Fulgencio Batista. Beautiful wild garden. Calle 13 # 51 esq. a N, Vedado (+53) 5-388-7866 Morro-Cabaña Park. House #29 (+53) 5-294-5397 www.havanacasablanca.com CA Michael and María Elena This leafy oasis in western Havana has an attractive mosaic tiled pool and three modern bedrooms. Calle 66 #4507 e/ 45 y Final, Playa (+53) 7-209-0084 CA 5 Elegant 2-bedroom apartment in restored colonial building. Quality loft style décor. Lamparilla #62 altos e/ Mercaderes y San Ignacio, Habana Vieja (+53) 5-829-6524 Concordia #151 apto. 8 esq. a San Nicolás, Centro Habana (+53) 5-254-5240 www.casaconcordia.net Luxury Houses You’ve 5+ Beautifully designed and spacious 3 bedroom apartment. Spanish colonial interiors with cheerful, arty accents. San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja Habana Vieja (+53) 5- 403-1 568 (+53) 7-836-6567 www.havanabohemia.com Villasol Casa Concordia CA 5 Residencia Mariby CA 5 A sprawling vanilla-hued mansion with 6 rooms decorated with colonial-era lamps, tiles and Louis XV furniture Vedado. (+53) 5-370-5559 contents waited Long Enough PAGE 68 PRODUCED BY .COM Artedel Luxury CA 5+ CA TOP PICK 3 BEDROOM PENTHOUSE Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Stylish and contemporary furniture along with a beautiful 360-degree view over Havana Don’t Miss Ydalgo – an impeccable host, discreet or gregarious, as you prefer Calle I #260, e/ 15 and 17, Vedado (+53) 7-830-8727 Bohemia Hostal CA 5+ CA TOP PICK GORGEOUS 1 BEDROOM APARTMENT Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Independent beautifully decorated apartment overlooking Plaza Vieja. Don’t Miss Spending time in Havana’s most atmospheric Plaza. San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja bohemia.plazavieja@gmail.com (+53) 5 4031 568: (53) 7 8366 567 www.havanabohemia.com Cañaveral House CA 5+ CA TOP PICK Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Large elegant villa away from downtown Havana. Great for families or groups of friends. Don’t Miss Basking in the sun as you stretch out on the lawn of the beautifully kept garden. 39A street, #4402, between 44 y 46, Playa, La Habana Cuba (+53) 295-5700 http://www.cubaguesthouse.com/canaveral.home. html?lang=en Rosa D’Ortega CA 5+ CA TOP PICK BOUTIQUE VILLA Facilities Rooms Ambience Value Best for Large elegant villa away from the bustle of downtown Havana. Gracious hosts, beautiful rooms. Don’t Miss Exploring the off-the-beaten track neighbourhood. Patrocinio #252 esq. a Juan Bruno Zayas, 10 de Octubre (+53) 7-641-43-29 / (+53) 5-263-3302 http://www.larosadeortega.com You’ve contents waited Long Enough PAGE 69 PRODUCED BY .COM