you can the section and read my story here
Transcription
you can the section and read my story here
FONDUES (AND DON’TS) Chef Bonny Reichert melts down a hot Valentine’s Day dinner Page 14 SAT U R D AY , F E B R U A R Y 1 3 , 2 016 DOUBLE TROUBLE Think coordinating your cocktail dress with your partner’s suit is challenging? For Toronto DJs LIZA KELLY and TAI LEE, getting ready to go out on the town means fashioning identical stage get ups. Arguments, occasionally, ensue. e t u c o tw Plus A lovelorn lad taps a Toronto boutique for an online dating makeover er your partn s a h s li y t ss oupled-up looking a c f o o t s s e r lk u a t s res ew t Can the p aitlin Agn dandy DJs – abou C ? ip h s n tio to sink a rela from society duos – Canadians ir mates Page 12 the matching S AT U R D AY , F e b ruary 1 3 , 2 016 the buzz test counter 2 3 T h e g lo b e a n d m a i l 3 Lip service 4 The Product CoverGirl Oh Sugar! moisturizing lip treatment, $7.99-$9.99, mass market retailers and covergirl.ca. The Promise Get softer and smoother lips in seven days with this product that nourishes and protects while delivering a delicate wash of colour. 1 5 How it works Grapeseed oil, avocado butter, and vitamins C and E repair lips and leave them feeling renewed. The oils absorb quickly into lips while a thin protective layer locks in moisture. Available in 10 shades, they have a fresh citrus scent and a sweet sugary taste. 6 How to use it Swipe on lips as needed. For more colour saturation, apply multiple coats. 7 The bottom line We’re always being told to give lip products seven days to see their full effect, but being an instant gratification kind of gal (and a beauty commitment phobe), I gave this product one daunting day-long test. I applied it just before boarding a five-hour flight. To give you some context: When I emerge from an airplane, the texture of my lips resembles that of a well-worn pair of leather riding boots. (Preferably Gucci ones.) That was not the case this time. After five very drying in-flight hours, I stepped off the plane with soft and supple lips. This product glides on easily, provides intense yet lightweight moisture, and delivers a subtle pop of colour. Although the scent can be a bit cloying when you raise the balm to your nose, it’s barely detectable when it’s on your lips. Bonus: Your kissing partner will appreciate the sweet taste and minimal colour transfer. Go ahead and test it for seven days, but I’ll bet that you’ll be using it for a lot longer than that. And at this price point, you can also save for some new designer footwear. inspired by Love hurts At a time when lovey-dovey declarations are on high volume, there are still gifts that cut through the amorous noise and convey that you’re out to poke fun at the dating game. Wearing your heart on your sleeve – or feet, in this case – is easy with Stance’s cheeky candy heart socks that brandish sassy sentiments like “Bite Me” and “As If.” For those with emotional baggage, Stay Home Club’s sleepover bag is an ideal way to warn potential partners of your predilection for moodiness. Prefer to keep your inner turmoil under wraps? Jonathan Adler’s quirky jar stores cookies and, of course, those things better left unmentioned. Or get straight to the point with Said The King’s impolite pillow cases. No doubt your apathy for affection will be loud and clear. – Odessa Paloma Parker – Marilisa R acco 1. Secrets canister, $128 (U.S.) through www.jonathanadler.com. 2. You Had Me At Merlot sweater, $58 (U.S.) through www.bowanddrape.com. 3. Get Up, Make Out pillow cases, $65 through www.saidtheking.com. 4. Notebook, $10.35 through www.alfamarama.etsy.com. 5. It’s You socks, $16.50 through www.stance.com. 6. Gemma Correll Emotional Baggage sleepover bag, $60 through www.stayhomeclub.com. 7. No stranger to pithy protests about relationships, comic star Cathy is a lovelorn icon for the romantically challenged. Special to The Globe and Mail MARKET EDIT BY odessa paloma parker. CATHY © Cathy Guisewite. Reprinted with permission of UNIVERSAL UCLICK. All rights reserved. The substance of style Mad as hell The unbridled release of frustration, whether caused by childcare or clothing, is having a moment Nathalie Atkinson natkinson@globeandmail.com @NathAt R obin Williams used to do a great bit about fictional wonder drug Fukitol (“the closest thing to a coma you’ll ever be”), and 2011 saw the arrival of storybook juggernaut Go the F--k to Sleep, but it would seem today that the profane release of pent-up frustration is becoming a winning business model as much as an attitude. Take former book editor Sarah Knight’s The Life-Changing Magic of Not Giving a F*ck, the no-but-seriously-folks parody of decluttering guru Marie Kondo’s international hit, which became a runaway bestseller in January soon after it was published. Our bucket lists are getting shorter but our F-it lists sure keep growing. We praise the no-nonesense attitude of Viola Davis on How to Get Away With Murder, buy F-you stamp kits and embroider subversive crossstitch. There is a cultural shift from political correctness to people expressing that they’re fed up with bull, says fashion designer Mark McNairy, “but change is not gonna happen overnight.” McNairy himself is diving into the uncensored fray with F**k Ivy: **And Everything Else (Harper Design). It’s a how-to men’s-wear scrapbook takedown that detonates F-bombs all over the cult of retro-preppy that Take Ivy, the 1965 book documenting Ivy League men’s wear, celebrates, all while dispensing shouty but fundamentally encouraging common sense. An oxymoron of a style guide that only iconoclast McNairy (or McNasty, as he’s nicknamed) could have written, F**k Ivy strikes a tone somewhere between Howard Beale and Howard Roark. “My idea was just a book of all the things that, growing up, made me what I am,” McNairy says of his original draft. “As far back as I can remember, it started with The Andy American ambassador to Vietnam Griffith Show, my favourite TV show, Henry Lodge has appeared as an and the camo question that always exemplar in a men’s style manual comes up [in interviews about my (and likely the last). Cary Grant, love and use of the print] – it and the staple of many a men’s-wear guide, clothing, I’m sure, started with G.I. is in this context featured more as a Joe.” When the founder of American “don’t” lesson about tie bars. men’s clothing and shoe company It sounds corrosive but, like New Amsterdam presented the Knight’s recent hit, it’s real talk with initial mock-up, an early editor told an absence of malice except at the him to try again. “And I was like, fetish of heritage forms, be they f--k you!” (Of course.) This, McNairy western, military or explains in a soft North Ivy League nu-preppy Carolina lilt over the try-hards. Most phone from Los American men wear Angeles, where he them slavishly, he says relocated in August – too tastefully but all after 30 years in too literally. New York. Enter the sacred Some of McNairy’s (cow) and the profane. understandable “Ralph Lauren is one of frustration comes from my heroes,” McNairy the lack of basic fashion explains, “but I love familiarity he Ralph because of the encounters every day individual pieces of from male shoppers, clothing, the detail put and even buyers and into it. The whole image people who work in NO HOLDS BARRED thing about…Well, fashion. When he Designer Mark McNairy’s book did you see the Oprah praises the classic is as much a takedown of yuppie interview with his oxford-cloth buttonculture as it is a men’s-wear style family at their ranch in down shirt, for guide. But his last rule is, perhaps, Colorado? They’re all instance, he often has his most important: Ignore dressed in cowboy to clarify that the everything he’s written. outfits. And it’s just “button-down” refers to embarrassing to me. the collar, not the front That’s what I’m rebelling against. placket. “It drives me crazy!” he says. Ralph Lauren has absolutely no “It’s changing, but before, men sense of humour whatsoever.” could tell you everything about their Another attention-grabbing golf clubs – what kind of metal it was parody that isn’t, F**k Ivy is a made out of, blah blah blah – but reaction and corrective to the way their wives picked out their shoes. men now take the cult of the They couldn’t care less about how gentleman or dandy, too far – with things are made.” His book is like a big exception for the admonition Strunk and White’s terse The against Happy Socks (“They make Elements of Style for clothes, because you look like a [jerk],” he writes). you must first know the protocols “I just don’t like fun socks. I like and rules before breaking them. sober socks,” McNairy confirms. To McNairy also chose atypical suggest otherwise would be uncouth, photographs to demonstrate his yet he does: The guide’s parting shot points. For a lesson on how to wear a is to disregard everything he’s said. poplin suit, it is surely the first time andrew Sardone EDITORIAL DIRECTOR • Odessa Paloma Parker FASHION EDITOR • Maryam Siddiqi MANAGING editor BRYAN GEE SENIOR ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR • BENJAMIN MACDONALD ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR • JANICE PINTO PHOTO CO - ORDINATION anya georgijevic contributing design editor • marilisa racco contributing beaut y editor 4 T h e g lo b e a n d m a i l h a u t e co u t u r e S AT U R DAY , F e b ru a ry 1 3 , 2 016 rami al Ali SCHIAPARELLI ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ZUHAIR MURAD COUTURE confidential After seasons of sketching ready-to-wear collections, Danielle Meder landed in Paris to take on January’s round of haute couture shows for the first time. Here, she recounts the experience, which highlights the connection between her craft and the fashion industry’s hand-made creations – and the sense of status and competition that makes both as vital as ever A s a fashion illustrator, I feel an affinity for haute couture. Both are anachronisms, remnants of a bygone media-industrial complex based on hand work. In Paris just before World War Two, there were 70 accredited haute couture houses. By definition, they had Paris-based ateliers and all the clothing produced was made by hand for individual clients. To have custom-made dresses and suits was not as unusual as it is now. Being a seamstress was a common career for women, and the couture industry in Paris employed a lot of them. At that time, you could open any fashion magazine or newspaper and see illustrations. Since photography was expensive and didn’t reproduce well on newsprint, fashion illustrators were legion. It was touted as a respectable career for a young woman to do before marriage, so many of the names and biographies of early 20th-century illustrators are lost; those that are remembered tend to be men. These men – Carl Erickson, Christian Berard, Rene Gruau and Erte – made a very good living doing it. That’s why it was called the golden age of illustration. There was real money in it. After the war, photography eroded the dominance of illustration in magazines. Still, in the 1960s, Women’s Wear Daily, Fairchild’s fashion newspaper, had an entire department of fashion illustrators. The most prominent of these workers was Kenneth Paul Block, who was routinely sent to Paris to attend and draw the haute couture shows. He worked so fast he could beat photography for timeliness. This season, there were only 12 official houses showing during haute couture week at the beginning of January. For venerable houses like Chanel and Christian Dior, couture is intended to create the prestige needed to sell perfumes and other products. Actual clients are few in number. As for fashion illustrators? There are only a handful who now make a fulltime living from it, and for those who do, like myself, it is not such a comfortable one. But regardless, I carry on – and so does haute couture. We’re not dead yet. ________________________ For nine years now, I’ve been travelling to London, New York and Paris as a freelance illustrator, sketching at the ready-to-wear shows during fashion weeks. Initially, I approached it as an exercise. Like many fashion students, my drawings were overly precious. I knew that in order to develop a mature style, I would need to loosen up. Drawing runway provided a high-pressure situation that would force my hand to let go because there wasn’t any time to think about what I was drawing. Initially, the sketches were scribbles and my commitment was lackadaisical. As seasons passed, I became addicted to the thrill of nailing a successful sketch in just a few moments. Even the logistical challenge of getting access to the shows (not easy as a freelancer) has been an incredible education. I’ve had to make sacrifices to do what I do. One of them has been abandoning a permanent home. For my first couture shows in Paris, I’m living out of a suitcase while figuring out what stop is next. Haute couture week in Paris has its own wonderful little anachronisms. Obtaining a photographer’s accreditation requires a paper cheque or, since I didn’t have one, an exact amount of cash paid in person at the offices of the Chambre Syndicale, which oversees the shows. Tickets are delivered by courier a day or two before a presentation. You don’t know what you’re attending until you open your mailbox – full of disappointment and surprise. This time, the surprise was pink – a ticket to Schiaparelli. Under the clear Paris sunlight on Monday morning I walked to Place Vendôme, where I encountered the former first lady of France, Carla Bruni, amidst a halo of flashes, working the crowd like a queen in leather pants, wishing us well – “Merci, bonjour, bonne journée, bonne année!” I was led to my seat, in the first row at the end of an aisle (my favourite position) with a note reading “A1 Madame Danielle Meder” written by hand in beautiful calligraphy. I’m not used to such a warm welcome in Paris. The first show of the week is always a bit of a challenge – I’m just warming up. The fact that this was the biggest ticket I had was intimidating, too. I did my damnedest. As the models turned by me, I gamely tried to reduce the intricate gowns to a few swift strokes. When the curtain call came, I dropped my pen and gaped at silk prints in countless colours, the finest basketryinspired weaving, glittering beadwork, precise pleats, all within arms reach. The journalists around me hurriedly ILLU S T R AT ION S BY Da n i el l e M ed er tapped notes into their phones, but I was incapable of critical thought. I had seen haute couture – really seen it. ________________________ Later that day, my friend, a photographer, arrived on the Eurostar and dropped off her luggage at the chambre de bonne, a tiny one-room apartment that we were sharing. We didn’t have tickets to the Dior show, but we went to see the scene. Outside the Rodin Museum, the narrow street was thick with security guards and crowdcontrol barriers. Celebrity watchers and street-style photographers abounded. Later, we had access to an off-schedule designer, Rami Al Ali, in the prestigious Le Meurice salon. As it was a presentation rather than a runway show, I had more time to capture the models in architecturally structured gowns. I was so pleased with the sketches I was suddenly feeling more confident. Afterwards in the lobby, my photographer friend and I discussed our schedule for the next day, and she surprised me by mentioning Chanel. “I got confirmation for access to the photographer’s pit by email. Didn’t you get a ticket, too?” she asked. I hadn’t. The baroque lobby suddenly felt airless. I abruptly excused myself, telling my friend I would see her later. I found a sandwich shop and sat down, stuffing a sandwich in my face so that, hopefully on a full stomach, I would be able to compose a reasonable lastminute email to Chanel. “You can’t be mad at me!” my friend texted me. And of course, I couldn’t, it wasn’t remotely her fault. I had hoped and prayed for at least one big ticket (Dior, Chanel, Gaultier) so I could have a real centrepiece for my work this week. Knowing that we were probably not getting it was killing me. I had one more show that evening – Alexis Mabille. Under a very bright, hot light, I sketched my heart out. Across the runway from me was David Downton – indisputably the greatest living fashion illustrator. He gave me a short nod of recognition – he’s seen me before, our world is very small. I’ve talked to him before but I didn’t want to bother him this time. After the show, the journalist next to me Instagrammed a time lapse of my sketch. The flowery caption described illustration as an ideal way to represent haute couture. Below the video, @DavidDownton commented: “Agreed.” ________________________ Back at the chambre de bonne, I laid in bed next to my friend, not able to sleep. My mind was burning with uncomfortable thoughts. I wanted to take her Chanel access from her. It wasn’t fair. I had spent years attempting to get access to one of the label’s shows, and she got hers on the first try. Why was photography always privileged over illustration? Could I take her access for myself, and sketch from the pit? I wished that she had offered to let me take her place, but she hadn’t. Honestly, if I was her, I wouldn’t have either. It was true that security in the wake of the terrorist attacks in Paris was extra tight. Names and S AT U R DAY , F e b ru a ry 1 3 , 2 016 IDs could be checked, and if I tried to punk Chanel maybe neither of us would get in. As I drifted to sleep, I thought, what would Kenneth Paul Block do? And I remembered an anecdote. Block’s boss, John Fairchild, was a notoriously bitchy critic. WWD was often banned from shows. The story goes that Block was so good he could illustrate from dictation. He would call a friend who had gone to the show and sketch the story second-hand. The next morning I woke up to an email from Chanel. My request hadn’t been received, it had been a mistake, and it was far too late to allocate an additional seat. I told my friend not to worry about shooting Chanel. Her job now was to watch the show closely and pick an outfit or two to describe to me afterwards. At the Grand Palais, I stood among the crowd of street-style photographers and fellow gawkers, while my friend went inside. Though my hand was freezing, I sketched some of the arrivals. When she came out, we went to a café and I attempted to draw from dictation. While the sketch was something like Gigi Hadid’s actual outfit, it also looked cold and bitter, perhaps because that’s how I felt. How did Block do it? He must have been much more gracious than me. The next show was Julian Fournié. Fournié’s designs are not the tastes of international fashion editors. The models walked so, so slowly, and I barely had energy to lift my brush. Next up was Alexandre Vauthier, for which (with some persuasion) we managed to get backstage access. h a u t e co u t u r e Sketching Vauthier was a rush. The clothes rocked, the models were hot and my brush was wet and fast. At the end of the show, I had three great sketches and was feeling happy again. ________________________ One of the reasons I came to Paris is to understand how fashion is driven by status. Paris upholds a type of status granted by wealth, tradition, official branding and expert public relations. Haute couture is like Champagne; there may, in fact, be a better sparkling wine, but if it’s not from Champagne, it’s not Champagne. While official membership at the Syndicale may seem like a glamorous seal of quality assurance for a designer house, it’s really only indicative of a steadfast grip on traditional techniques. Merit, on the other hand, defies regulation, so its place is not so assured. Does illustration deserve a place in modern fashion? Yes, but not just because it’s done by hand. Modern illustration has to be so beautiful, so alive, that it can convey a level of emotion that photography can’t. When pitted against innovation, traditional techniques have to rise above the occasion. It’s what I’m trying to do, too. That evening my friend and I tried our luck at a final show: Zuhair Murad, from Beirut, a member of the Syndicale since 2012. Going through the backstage entrance, I bothered the security guard to let us both in until, exhausted, he waved us through. ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ZUHAIR MURAD T h e g lo b e a n d m a i l (I had a backstage pass – my friend did not.) Then I had a similar conversation with a PR girl, explaining I was going to sketch the models backstage and my photographer had to come with me. “Okay, only a few minutes though,” she said. Backstage, I found some idle models. I told them to relax, drawing them while they bandaged their blistered feet, complaining to each other. Walking back through the grand venue was like a maze. From the makeup and hair salon, we went through a series of smaller mirrored rooms where glittering gowns hung, each with their own protective attendant. The dresses had shape even without people inside them, like ghostly entities. The runway wound through several grand rooms. At the end of the runway on the riser, the photographers packed themselves so closely they resemble a giant cyborg with a thousand eyes. To get our shot, both my friend and I had to claim positions we did not officially have rights to. I took my place in someone else’s seat, “losing” the numbered card that had been sitting on it. She tucked herself under the elbows of another photographer. Watching the guests at Zuhair Murad was something different. There didn’t appear to be many members of the media. Instead, we were surrounded by clients. These wealthy women, of all ages and shapes and ethnicities, were swathed in plush furs and sparkling diamonds, hair perfectly blown out, makeup exquisitely applied, heels impossibly high. The air shimmered with expensive perfume. Finally, the chandeliers dimmed and the show began. I struggled to sketch – I was being pushed off the edge of my seat by the designer’s clients, eager swans who kept standing up and sitting down, jostling around, telling each other to get out of the way, dumping fur coats on top of my sketches. On the runway, the show ignited the imagination of the little girl inside me. Beautiful princesses with delicate features and silken hair crowned with silver laurels, wearing grand gowns that seemed inexplicably light, as if they didn’t have to conform to the laws of physics. When the finale bride came out, backlit and glowing like an angel, her panniers as wide as the runway, her veil, the length of a stretch limo, trailing after her, everyone hushed. And then it was over. The audience spilled onto the runway, effusive with pleasure from this wonderful dream. As we exited the venue, dodging women taking selfies, playing out their own fashion model fantasies, we were walking through an improbably flashy fairy tale world where conspicuous displays of wealth were frankly celebrated. It seemed so unreal, yet it was real. Clearly, couture still is, too. Special to The Globe and Mail 5 6 T h e g lo b e a n d m a i l G lo b e S t y l e Stylesetters ‘I wish people would take risks a little more’ Celebrated for her whimsical aesthetic and dynamic work as a stylist, Shirley Kurata speaks about being both a collaborator and a muse S AT U R DAY , F e b ru a ry 1 3 , 2 016 designer Peter Jensen. For his spring 2016 collection, Kurata was cited as Jensen’s muse. I spoke with Shirley recently about her retro aesthetic – dubbed “futuristic folky” – her celebration of individuality, and why she thinks people should take more risks. Was this a career that you aspired to from the get go, or was there a different fashion career that you initially had in mind for yourself? From the age of 10, I wanted to be a fashion designer and I actually went to fashion school for that. But being from L.A., I felt like it wasn’t really the place at that time to start my own line and be a fashion designer. And there was something about working on TV and films and com- mercials and styling for print and editorials that appealed to me; that world seemed to be a little bit more what I was interested in. So it wasn’t a direct path. I went from studying fashion design to going into costuming on TV and film and learned the ropes that way. I do some celebrity work, some editorial work, some commercial work, and I like that variety. You had some great styling adventures with the Rodarte sisters, and were instrumental in terms of pushing them and celebrating what they were doing. I imagine a great kind of synergy goes on there. They’re very talented, intelligent girls, and they’re pretty clued into what they want to do in terms of the Jeanne Beker jbeker@globeandmail.com @Jeanne_Beker A t this frenzied time in fashion when eclecticism rules supreme, the role wardrobe mix-masters play has taken on new gravitas. Designers, editors and celebrities alike depend on a stylist’s astute eye to bring unique looks together and inspire us all to new sartorial heights. Enter Shirley Kurata, a spirited young JapaneseAmerican stylist from Los Angeles who’s become iconic in style circles for her “mod secretary” mid-century references, her cinematic sensibility and her keen attention to detail. Beloved by her ultra cool clients from Lena Dunham and Zooey Deschanel to Beck and Pharrell, her simple, whimsical approach to mixing unexpected, carefully curated pieces is regarded as both cheeky and compelling. Kurata has styled collections for the celebrated label Rodarte since its debut over 10 years ago, and regularly styles collections for Danish-born, London-based A LEAGUE OF HER OWN Stylist Shirley Kurata (far right) pictured at the spring 2016 presentation of London-based designer Peter Jensen. Kurata served as muse for the quirky collection that boasted an eclectic mix of colour and prints. IMAXTREE.COM Love blooms It’s not the colour of your Valentine’s Day bouquet, writes Marjorie Harris, but its size that really matters M ichael Pellegrino and Shawn Gibson of Toronto’s Teatro Verde have been setting horticultural benchmarks since they introduced their design sense at The Royal Agricultural Winter Fair’s winter garden show in 1997. The buzz they generated inspired the city to leap forward in blooming sophistication. Since those early days, they have experimented with tantalizing new ways to use flowers. And, since flowers don’t change much over the years, how to re-interpret them becomes paramount. With Valentine’s Day looming, Teatro Verde is a good place to look for something enticing for lovers. Pellegrino sees Valentine’s Day with slightly different eyes than the rest of us. Skip the eye-searing red roses, he says: “My clientele is not buying into this any more. There are so many great new introductions with variety of size and colour. Now they are asking for these new plants by name and demanding other options such as hot pinks and oranges.” Rosa “Pink Floyd,” for instance, has a very large head, a slight fragrance, and is a hot seller. To get away from clichés this Valentine’s Day, Teatro Verde is adding vanda orchids (lots of colour) and cymbidium orchids (yellow, acid green). They are both striking and scented. “You could put them with tulips, hyacinths, even daffodils. It’s flirtatious, more whimsical and not as serious as roses.” When arranging, cluster LAYERS UPON LAYERS Be bold this Valentine’s Day and prepare your own bouquet. Eschew roses for other flowers and opt for colour blocking. Most importantly, don’t be shy about the size of the final product. blooms for a more linear contemporary look. Colour blocks make it easier for the eye to process all the colours, which should complement each other. For instance, there’s an orange tulip called “Adrien,” which he mixes with the intense blue of hyacinths. “I love such an effective way of showcasing the beauty of two elements. It’s casual and appeals to the eye immediately,” Pellegrino says. While there are no rules for such an arrange- KEVIN VAN PAASSEN for the Globe and mail ment, he tends to do them in multiples of 10 using a couple of bunches of tulips and up to three bunches of hyacinths for something very informal. When using a taller vase, with a wider opening, include a more dramatic element. He suggests pussy willows, which not only add height and structure but also give the promise of things to come. Pellegrino’s designs usually evolve in the vase and he’s not afraid to mix things up with tulips that only last a few days because they can then be removed and substituted later on. The darker the tones of the blooms, the more serious and grounded they seem to be. Consider this when you are figuring out what kind of thought or feeling you want to communicate. “You have 10 seconds to know if someone likes your arrangement or not,” he says. “Flowers provoke a mood when they hit your senses of sight and smell. Use striking combinations and vibrant colours that tell a story and you end up with something happy, bright, filled with joy, and uplifting.” And for the record, he is not discouraging a Valentine lover from using blood red roses – but a dozen is not enough. “Find a flower you are attracted to, one that you think is beautiful, then buy 20 or 30 stems,” he says. “This en masse approach will jump right out to express both love of the bloom and for the recipient.” In these dull days of winter, anything with intense rich colour will restore even the most jaded eye. Happy Valentine’s. For more plant information, visit www.marjorieharris.com. Special to The Globe and Mail S AT U R DAY , F e b ru a ry 1 3 , 2 016 direction of their clothing line. I think because of that, we get along. I’m not like one of those usual stylists that will try to direct them into something that they’re not comfortable with. Sometimes there is a power play where a stylist comes in and pushes a direction that a designer might not always be comfortable with. I think that the Rodarte sisters already have an idea of what they want to do. And we all think outside the box. We’re kind of the outsiders of the industry because we came from L.A., which didn’t have a big fashion scene. So we were all a little separate from the mainstream world. There’s a sense of playfulness and whimsy in your work, and your style is so distinctive. Is that something that takes a long time to cultivate? I think it just sort of comes naturally. You have something already within that you’re drawn to. And yes, you can cultivate that. But there’s also something innate or intuitive about it, too. I try to work with things that I enjoy, and work well together. I don’t know if it’s always so deliberate – it just sort of falls into place for me. It’s hard to explain because it’s an abstract thing. A lot of styling is about what your natural aesthetic inclinations are, and working off of that. How good do you think people have become at styling themselves? And what about the risks people take when it comes to mixing it up? I wish people would take risks a little more. I know it’s hard do when people are so prone to criticize you on the Internet or in magazines, so I can understand that caution because it comes to a point where you can only hear so many personal attacks on the way you’re dressed from strangers. And I find that unfortunate because you have to take risks. I admire the people that want to do that, and aren’t so bothered by all the negative comments that might come out of it. Sometimes G lo b e S t y l e T h e g lo b e a n d m a i l ROCKING THE VOTE Actor, director and producer Lena Dunham shows support for Hillary Clinton in a Kurata-styled look. MIKE DAVIDSON FOR HILLARY FOR IOWA in the “What Was She Thinking?” section of magazines, I actually like the outfits being criticized! At least it’s fun as opposed to a very safe gown that you’ve seen a million times before. Well, the red carpet has, in some ways, watered down individual fashion statements. There’s an air of propriety and good taste that prevails that wasn’t there when I was a kid growing up. What are your feelings about the red carpet? I agree. Like, as crazy as that Björk swan dress was, it was so much Björk’s character that I loved it. And I’m not saying we should all wear a swan dress on the red carpet, but sometimes you need to express something fun. I think people are just too scared to do that now on the red carpet. There are a few people that take the risk and that’s great, but it would be great to see a little more spirit. We’ve been seeing a lot of irreverent, unexpected mixing going on. Take Gucci’s last collection, for example. Do you see that as a trend that is just going to keep on growing, with people embracing it more and more, or do you see a nod towards minimalism creeping into the fray? It’s sort of like a yin and yang. I think there’s going to be both – that’s the way the world runs. I love what Gucci’s doing because it’s my world. But I also appreciate the minimalism of Calvin Klein, or what Helmut Lang did. Not everyone’s going to be able to pull off a Gucci head-to-toe ensemble, but then there are people like me that would love to wear it. It’s great that we’re living at a time when anything goes. But does that threaten the role of the stylist? If anything goes, why do we need an expert eye to put it together? I wouldn’t say anything goes. There is a limit to what looks good together. I think stylists are needed but I think that there’s room to play around with things. There’s also a need to make sure that it’s done tastefully or appropriately, I guess. Your vision serves as a source of inspiration for many. You were even a muse for Peter Jensen’s recent collection. Yes, I was very honoured and flattered, especially because his past muses have been women that I’ve been a huge fan of, like photographer Cindy Sherman and actress Shelley Duvall. It was definitely a great honour to be one of his muses, and I was very excited to see what kind of collection he would come up with with me in mind. How did it make you feel to see all the looks that you inspired? It was exciting and I loved it! I’ve always been a big fan of his work, and to see a Shirley collection was definitely a big treat for me. It struck me as maybe “Shirley-on-the-go”… but I know it’s always hard to describe your own style. I like to say, “If Harold and Maude had a child, maybe she’d be dressed like me.” Were you always confident about your style sense when you were growing up? I went to a school with school uniforms, all the way from kindergarten through 12th grade, so I think when you’re stuck wearing uniforms you want to get out of that and start experimenting with your own outfits. I think that kind of started the path for me. Do you ever project about fashion in the future and the way we’ll be dressing? There was a time when people speculated that we would all embrace a uniform because it would take up less time. No, I don’t think that’ll happen. I think we’re all too individualistic to ever want to dress like everyone else. There are enough of us who have a desire to not want to dress like everyone else. There are enough rebels out there. This interview has been condensed and edited. Special to The Globe and Mail 7 8 T h e g lo b e a n d m a i l DESIGN S AT U R DAY , F e b ru a ry 1 3 , 2 016 FAVOURITE ROOM Working from ‘home’ Editor Imran Amed settled Business of Fashion’s first office in London’s Fitzrovia A lmost a decade since he launched Business of Fashion from his makeshift home office, Imran Amed finds himself in a 2,000-square-foot space in Fitzrovia, a former garment district in central London. Setting up the company’s new headquarters last summer felt like a seminal moment. “For the first six years, I ran BoF from my apartment in Notting Hill. We had a small office in Kingly Court in Soho for one year and a half before we moved here. This office feels like our first real home, and we love it when visiting CEOs and designers from out of town come to see us,” explains Calgary-born Amed. Due to his intense travel schedule, the editor cherishes his time in the office, having created a “home away from home” with a cozy atmosphere and personal touches. The bright and airy space provides ample room for both work essentials and decorative items. Amed’s slick desk by Vitra was, by good fortune, acquired through one of BoF’s investors, Index Ventures, after the company underwent an office shuffle. “We’re a start-up, so nice office furniture is a real treat.” Aside from the practical workstation, Amed eschewed the cold corporate look, adding warmth to the room with a handmade rug from Srinagar, Kashmir, acquired while on a work trip. “In the summer of 2013, I made a trip to attend the bridal couture shows in New Delhi, India. I like to mix my work trips with some personal diversions, so went to Kashmir for a few days to soak in the mountain air. The region is known for its beautiful carpets and rugs, and I picked up several of them while I was there.” Displayed on the walls are key BoF accomplishments, including the publication’s print editions hanging proudly on the wall next to the fifth-anniversary poster from a 2012 celebration in London. “Since then, we have had similar celebrations in Shanghai, 3 New Delhi, New York and Florence, and we always put the flag of our host country into the BoF logo as a reflection of the truly global nature of our community, which is based in over 200 countries and territories around the world.” BoF readers will recognize the striking portrait of Gucci’s Alessandro Michele and Marco Bizzarri from last September’s BoF 500 print edition, by the London-based artist Helen Downie (who goes by the moniker UnskilledWorker). Jim Ross FOR THE GLOBE AND MAIL 1 2 4 Get the look 1. Atomic matte black table lamp, $179 at CB2 (www.cb2.com). 2. Herman Miller Nelson Swag Leg table, $1,874 at GR Shop (www.grshop.com). 3. Avoca lambswool throw, $195 at Amara (www.amara.com). 4. Kilim Dhurrie Rug, $199 through www.rugs.ca. 5. Gallant drawer unit, $179 at Ikea (www.ikea.com). While working on the issue, the editor was honoured with his portrait by the artist, as a personal memento from the collaboration. Amed, who came from a traditional corporate environment, cultivates a team-based office culture that is reflective of its spatial organization, where all the departments work together in one large open 5 space. In between breaking the next big headlines in fashion, the team gathers for lunches and informal meetings in the communal space, aptly named “The Huddle.” As he leaves London for weeks of fashion presentations, the founder is content to have finally created an authentic home for his growing company. “The space feels like the BoF brand – open, fun, intelligent, stylish and filled with people holding 17 different nationalities. We are a global team, located in the most global city in the world. It’s very stimulating!” – Anya Georgijevic S AT U R D AY , F e b ruary 1 3 , 2 016 fa s h i o n w e e k p r e v i e w 9 T h e g lo b e a n d m a i l On with the shows imaxtree imaxtree The international fashion week circut has its fair share of repetition: the street-style stars trying to out-do one another with quirky ensembles; the label on the cusp of its breakout moment. Yet each season also promises a refresh of ideas and icons. Odessa Paloma Parker shares her must sees (and must haves) for the upcoming show schedule ones to watch New York London Milan Paris Although NYC is dubbed the most commercial of the four major fashion week venues, that doesn’t mean it lacks surprise. Toronto-based label Vejas, which is already stocked in chic boutiques such as Opening Ceremony, will set up a showroom and present its wares to an audience craving their gender fluid, luxe streetwear sensibilities. It’s season three on the circut for the brand and given that it’s already been featured in former Vogue Paris editor Carine Roitfeld’s publication, CR Fashion Book, it’s clear the third time’s the charm. If you follow the Instagram accounts of style setters from Susie “Style Bubble” Lau or Yasmin Sewell, you’ll be familiar with the neoVictorian, very sweet and somewhat cheeky work of Molly Goddard. (She was also nominated in the emerging women’s-wear designer category at last year’s British Fashion Awards.) Her frothy, feminine designs were showcased last season in a conceptual sandwich-making presentation at London’s Institue of Conceptual Arts, and there’s little doubt this season’s fare will be equally as tasty. For several seasons, Massimo Giorgetti of MSGM has positioned himself as the designer most tapped into what a new generation of style-hungry citizens are searching for: nostalgically underpinned pieces, but thoroughly modern in their use of slouchy, unusual cuts and embellishment. With Milan’s establishment experiencing a shakeup thanks to Gucci’s recent renaissance, it’s up to voices like Giorgetti to propel the city’s ability to push design to the edges of wearable fashion. It’s no small feat to bring a brand back from staid status to cuttingedge cool. British designer Jonathan Anderson has managed just that at the helm of Spanish label Loewe, which in a few seasons has gone from under-the-radar to leading the pack thanks to its modernist approach to luxury. The brand’s key achievement is the revival of the “It” bag, which Anderson accomplished with Loewe’s coveted Puzzle style; the interest comes from the way he positions these goods against often-outrageous garments. DRIVEN ATTITUDE HEY, GOOD LOOKING To achieve photo-worthy status outside a show, style setters are looking less to conspicuous consumption and more toward pieces that speak to clued-in taste. With the right punchy handbag and an air of casual ambivalence, you can already hear the cameras clicking. Clockwise from top left: Ottoman top, £450 through www.j-w-anderson.com. Wwake earrings, $380 each at Easy Tiger Goods (www.easytigergoods.com). Lou Lou jeans, $305 through www.paige.com. Paula Cademartori Petite Faye bag, $3,068 (U.S.) through www.net-a-porter.com. Repetto Cottilon Clark chelsea boots, $475 at Gravity Pope (www.gravitypope.com). For more on-the-go Fashion Week coverage, follow along via Twitter and Instagram @globestyle and @odessapaloma. Getting from show to show in the busiest, buzziest cities in the world is no easy feat. Luckily, Mercedes-Benz offers a car service to London Fashion Week invitees. For the cars’ occupants, it’s not only a chance to re-charge phones, answer emails and scarf down some lunch (in my photo above, I snapped up a sandwich from a café in Hyde Park after exiting the preview for McQ) but a time to make new friends in what the outside world probably views as the unfriendliest of professions. Last season, I talked about our potentially new Prime Minister, Justin Trudeau, with the editorial director of Paper magazine, Mickey Boardman; you’ll be unsurprised to know that Trudeau’s appeal was already trending south of the border. Boardman and my other car mates (including Document Journal’s Ronald Burton and Preetma Singh, formerly of Nylon) also diverted our attention from the runway to the Thames on a brief jaunt to the amusement park beside the London Eye. While everyone’s favourite front-row motto in other cities may be “You Can’t Sit With Us,” you could say the phrase most accurate for LFW is “The More, The Merrier.” 12 T h e g lo b e a n d m a i l Va l e n t i n e ’ s D AY S AT U R DAY , F e b ru a ry 1 3 , 2 016 SHADES OF GREY After 15 years together, Suzanne and Mark Cohon (co-founder of AWOL Entertainment) have a style that’s perfectly in sync – and definitely haute. No surprise, considering Suzanne’s Toronto-based PR agency has Tiffany & Co. and Saks Fifth Avenue as clients. S AT U R DAY , F e b ru a ry 1 3 , 2 016 A and he thought I looked like Crystal Bernard from Wings,” she says. But opposites attract and it was only a matter of time before their fashion sense fell into perfect harmony. After 15 years together, the Toronto-based couple has landed on the same fashion wavelength, unintentionally coordinating whenever they’re photographed together events – he favours classic tuxedos by Zegna and Armani that are complimented by her wardrobe of Burberry, Max Mara and Roland Mouret cocktail dresses. Now, they say, their only disagreements occur over credit card bills and mirror hogging. DJs Liza Kelly and Tai Lee, who met seven years ago after an evening at a dive bar led to an attempt at organizing an AC/DC cover band, share a love of get- ting dressed up in colourful vintage pieces like fifties frocks and retro blazers. But crafting elaborate ensembles for their co-DJ nights can lead to disagreements, especially as their ensembles become more involved. “Some of our outfits require getting a lot of pieces together in a short amount of time,” says Kelly. “We can get stressed about it and argue a bit. It’s mostly me though. I take longer to get ready!” Closet conflicts take on a different character when one half of a couple doesn’t neccesarily prioritize personal style as much as his or her significant other. A fashion disaster at a bar on Dundas West in Toronto first brought newlyweds Nicki and Paul Podvalej together. “He sat down to talk to me and spilled his entire pint of beer all over my Asilio dress,” she says. Nicki, founder of the online shop Curriculum, says that her approach to fashion is worlds apart from that of her engineer husband. “His stance is that he doesn’t want to waste time thinking about what he wears, à la Steve Jobs,” she says. Still, Nicki admires Paul’s regular rotation of oxford shirts, crew necks and jeans, even if it means there’s a graveyard of items – such as a pink short-sleeved Gitman Vintage shirt – in the back of his closet that she’s unsuccessfully tried to convince him to wear. In newer romances, sartorial discord becomes a visual representation of a relationship’s development. Take documentary filmmaker and landscape designer Joe Clement and his New York-based Are you fit to be swiped? E LIK E P O N OPPOSITES ATTRACT Nicki Podvalej, founder of new online boutique Curriculum, says her engineer husband Paul’s utilitarian approach to style is decidedly different from her own (think fashion plate glam versus “Steve Jobs” practicality). Whether you and your significant other share a signature fashion sense or couldn’t be more stylishly opposed, dressing to the sartorial standards of a chic partner can rattle a relationship. Caitlin Agnew talks with Canadian couples about wardrobing a deux partner Manuel Mendes, who’ve been together since last summer. While Clement prefers a uniform of steel-toe boots, jeans and T-shirts, Mendes’s career as a celebrity assistant requires him to be constantly aware of the minutiae of trends. Although Clement says he doesn’t feel any pressure to keep up with his Margiela-clad counterpart, he admits that Mendes has helped him up his glam factor by taking him shopping or pointing out stylish guys on the street. “I think that we have maintained our own style, but when it comes to dressing up for social occasions my friends will tell you that I have definitely been picking it up,” says Clement. Of course, a couple’s style evolution can also relax over the years. Chef Susur Lee and interior designer Brenda Bent first met three decades ago while working at Peter Pan Bistro, she in a pair of overalls (“Think Dexy’s Midnight Runners,” she says) and he in Eddie Bauer cords and a pressed shirt. Over the years, they’ve refined their wardrobes to a relaxed mix of designer pieces with casual staples from Uniqlo, Topshop and Forever 21. “He is way less stuffy. No ironing T-shirts or jeans anymore,” says Bent, a former fashion designer with an eye for Céline bags and Fendi coats. Despite their high-profile careers, the two never compete for the spotlight, although Lee will ask for Bent’s advice before heading out to an important event. “I am more stylish and he is more fashionable,” she says. Close enough. Special to The Globe and Mail MATCH POINTS While imitation might be the sincerest form of flattery, looking like a mirror image of your partner proved to be a fashion flop for these celeb couples Britney Spears & Justin Timberlake Victoria & David Beckham Kanye West & Kim Kardashian Ah, the heady days of the early aughts when denim was dissected and reassembled in a variety of ways. This ill-fated pair woefully worked the trend head-to-toe on the red carpet of the American Music Awards – and the dawn of the celebrity stylist quickly followed suit. Coincidence? We think not. Before her fashion empire was launched and his lucrative H&M deal was inked, these two crazy kids were living life fast and furiously – at least according to the faux-biker ensembles they rocked at a Gucci show in 1999. Considering her knack for understated glamour in her own collections, we’re surprised Posh the Former ever looked this revved up. This duo’s love of french label Balmain knows no bounds – they starred together in the brand’s spring 2015 ad campaign; but their fanaticism reached new heights with this his ’n’ hers look starring similar navy blazers. While Kanye looked cool, Kim appeared as though she forgot the rest of her outfit in her dressing room. Photo BY Mark J. Terrill/AP Photo By Rex Features Photo by James Devaney/GC Images – Odessa Paloma Parker After two unsuccessful years of online dating, photographer Mark Binks decided to conduct an experiment. The 37-year-old visited Toronto men’s-wear store Gotstyle where, for $99, he was styled and photographed in three different looks to use on his online dating profiles. Here, he tells Caitlin Agnew how upping his fashion ante via the shop’s It’s a Match service affected his appeal on apps like Tinder and Bumble I E LIK 13 UPPING THE ANTE Joe Clement, a Toronto-based documentary maker and landscape designer (above right), lets his partner Manuel Mendes – a celebrity stylist living in New York – take a starring role in the wardrobe department. Clement admits that his new beau’s fashion savvy has encouraged him to step up his own style game. Till dress do us part soul mate. More recently, the magazine conferred fashion icon status on Prime Minister Justin Trudeau and his wife Sophie Grégoire Trudeau, praising their shared “stylishness, good humor, and friendly garrulousness” via a tender, Oscar de la Rentaified photo shoot. The Beckhams, the Carters and the Jolie-Pitts have all similarly benefitted from well-dressed wedded bliss. But being one part of a dapper duo – famous or not – isn’t without its challenges. When public relations maven Suzanne Cohon met her husband Mark Cohon, former commissioner of the CFL and co-founder of AWOL Entertainment, in 2001, neither was wooed by the other’s fashion choices. “I thought Mark looked like he was dressed to be on Seinfeld T h e g lo b e a n d m a i l OLD SCHOOL COOL At the start of their relationship, chef Susur Lee and Brenda Bent exemplified the minimalist look of the 1990s. Though Lee’s style has become “less stuffy,” Bent (a former fashion designer) recently rocked a coat from London label-du-jour Shrimps for the launch of Lee’s latest hotspot, Fring’s. SOUND AND VISION DJing duo Liza Kelly and Tai Lee complement their music sets at locales like Toronto tequila bar Reposado with flamboyant, retro-flecked ensembles that often match in colour choice and daring use of print. ccording to British tabloid lore, it was a dress that made Prince William fall madly in love with a commoner. When Kate Middleton wore a transparent, strapless number down the runway of a 2002 charity fashion show (not her greatest sartorial moment to be sure, but she redeemed herself with that McQueen wedding gown), she sealed the fate of young Wills, and the United Kingdom, too. The greatest love stories of our time often qualify as ménages à trois, where the frisky third in the mix is fashion. One need only to look at Kanye West, Kim Kardashian and their controversial 2014 Vogue cover to understand the astronomical increase in chic factor that comes from finding your sartorial VALENTINE ’ s D AY was on OkCupid for a little bit. I have Tinder because everyone does. And I got Bumble in the summer. I’ve been on a few dates, maybe three or four OkCupid dates and five or six Tinder dates. I’ve never been on a Bumble date. I will say this – I’m very picky and I don’t love dating. For the last four months on Bumble, I haven’t received one single like. Maybe it’s because there wasn’t enough people on there, maybe my photos weren’t very good – they were a little goofier. In all my pictures, I was wearing jeans and a T-shirt. I don’t think I’m the best dresser; I’m somewhere in the middle. I am aware of the fact that you have to have a certain level of style if you’re interested in girls being interested in you. Men’s fashion has picked up a lot in the last four or five years, and it’s now a thing to want to look your best. At first, I thought getting the Gotstyle makeover was kind of funny – I don’t like being the centre of attention. They have one person who does it, Moe Kelso. She was super sweet and very open to me saying yes or no, but I also let her do whatever. She was really good at gauging what kind of person I was. She knew what kind of suit I’d like over other suits – something a little more cool. We looked at different ties, and she asked my opinion on everything. It’s a nice idea that there’s someone out there who can guide you in the right direction. Maybe guys want to look better, but they just don’t get it. I think it’s no more or less duplicitous than girls wearing makeup. I went a little bit more ostentatious than I would dress normally, just because I was curious to see what would happen. For instance, this jacket is a little out there but I was like, “f--k it.” I loved the Tiger of Sweden suit. That I’d wear, and I chose the shirt in one shot. You can have one crazy shirt, but everything else should be plain. I finessed the photos a bit. I feel like if you have a completely curated profile, it looks like you’ve paid to have a photo shoot done. It’s obvious. I didn’t want that. I also took ‘I don’t think I’m the best dresser. I am aware of the fact that you have to have a certain level of style if you’re interested in girls being interested in you’ all my other photos down because I wanted to see what would happen with just these three. But I’d probably add more candid, casual shots back in. And if I went on a date with somebody because of this, I would 100 per cent tell them about the makeover. Since I’ve gotten my updated makeover profile photos, my Bumble has been more successful statistically. The last girl who messaged me was on Nov. 23. Then, I had a good six weeks of nobody liking me. I’m not on every day, but I’ve been on it more last week for the sake of the experiment. I think I had seven swipes saying yes to me and four who’ve actually messaged me. I would say the matches I’ve gotten since are more age appropriate, more sophisticated. I responded to one yesterday, but it didn’t go very far. I looked at her Instagram and she’s into EDM and music festivals. This interview has been condensed and edited. Special to The Globe and Mail Stylin’ and profilin’ Gotstyle’s It’s a Match program launched in January of this year; the idea came to the boutique’s owner, Melissa Austria, after noticing how many undesirable profile pics were circulating on dating apps. With the expertise of model and “makeover specialist” Moe Kelso (who has engaged in online dating in the past), men can spruce up and be snapped in outfits that far exceed the $99 price tag attached to the service (no purchases are necessary to take part in the program). For example, Mark Binks’s “smart casual” ensemble (middle), featuring a Tiger of Sweden blazer, Zanerobe jeans and Gotstyle scarf, cost more than $1,000 – a way to look in the know without spending much dough. 14 T h e g lo b e a n d m a i l e n t e r ta i n i n g S AT U R DAY , F e b ru a ry 1 3 , 2 016 The tines that bind Who says Valentine’s Day is a couples-only celebration? Grab some friends, some forks and a fondue pot. As Bonny Reichert writes, it’s hip to dip Photography by Hudson Hayden T he problem with Valentine’s Day, if you believe there is a problem with Valentine’s Day, is not so much the construction of a holiday about love, but the weight of expectation surrounding it. Like New Year’s Eve, Valentine’s Day can be fraught with pressure. Who will you celebrate with? Where will you go? Will there be gifts? As any relationship counsellor will tell you, expectations are not sexy, and pressure is no fun. Why does Valentine’s Day have to be just for couples, anyway? We love lots of people – our parents, our children, our friends. Keeping V Day exclusive to two year after year is boring. So, forget it. Forget the romantic dinner for two, and the fight for the reservation. Forget the sappy cards, the droopy flowers, the lastminute chocolates. Instead, do something cozy, social and fun. Invite the people you love into your home and serve the most convivial meal imaginable. Make fondue. It would be extreme to serve all three of these fondues – cheese, meat and chocolate – in one night, but it could be done, and it would no doubt be unforgettable. An alternative would be to choose the meat or the cheese, add a great salad and lots of wine. Chocolate fondue is a perfect finish in either case. Fondue is so easy going, you can even make it vegan (read more in Alterna-dips. below). There is really only one rule, and it comes from the Swiss: If you drop your bread from your fork while dipping, you have to kiss someone at the table. So pucker up and get a roaring blaze going in the fireplace. 1970s togs optional. Sierra fondue sets provided by Swissmar (www.swissmar.com). Cheese Fondue The original fondue, this luxurious cheese fest has a proud history as Switzerland’s national dish. It was also the centrepiece of many a swingin’ seventies soiree. It’s fun to laugh at cheese fondue until you realize how seriously delicious it can be. This combination of cheeses is perfect – the gruyère is slightly sweet and nutty, the emmental smooth and mild and the comte a bit stronger with just a tiny bit of funk. Kirsch, a cherry brandy, is traditional in cheese fondue and you can add a dash if you like, but I prefer the flavour without it. Ready time: 20 minutes 6 ounces (150 grams) gruyère 6 ounces (150 grams) emmental 4 ounces (100 grams) comté 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 clove of garlic, cut in half 1- 1½ cups white wine such as dry riesling or sauvignon blanc (choose a decent quality one and serve with the meal, as well) Squeeze of fresh lemon juice Salt and pepper, to taste 1 large baguette, cut into bite-sized pieces 2 cups mini potatoes, pre-cooked and cut into halves 1 cup steamed snow peas or green beans 1 cup French cornichons 2 Granny Smith apples, cored and sliced Remove rinds from cheese with a sharp knife and discard. Shred all three cheeses in a food processor or on a box grater. Combine in a large bowl. Add cornstarch and toss gently with fingertips to distribute evenly. Rub inside of a fondue pot or a medium-sized enamel-coated cast-iron saucepan thoroughly with cut piece of garlic. Discard garlic. Add 1 cup wine and heat on stovetop to just below a simmer. Begin adding cheese, one handful at a time, stirring consistently with a wooden spoon over mediumlow heat. At first cheese will appear stringy, but continue adding cheese and stirring until sauce comes together and makes a smooth ribbon when dropped from spoon. (Increase heat very slightly if cheese is not melted evenly but don’t let mixture get too hot; warm additional wine in microwave and add, by the spoonful, if sauce is too thick.) Stir in lemon juice, salt and pepper. To serve, transfer pan to table atop a fondue burner or heatproof surface alongside prepared bread, potatoes, vegetables and other dippers. Give guests long-handled forks, and encourage them to start dipping. If not using a fondue burner and reheating is necessary, return pan to medium-low stovetop heat and stir in a couple more spoonfuls of wine for a smooth consistency before bringing back to table for a second round. Serves 4 to 6. Fondue Bourguignonne A later addition to the fondue family, the beef variety has the added excitement of letting guests actually cook their meal at the table. A full fondue set with tableside burner is helpful here because cooking oil should remain at or above 375 F in order to keep food crisp and greaseless. Don’t forget the dipping sauces, which add a ton of flavour after food comes out of the oil. Ready time: 15 minutes ½ cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon horseradish 1/3 cup soy sauce ½ lime, juiced 2 teaspoon sesame oil Chili flakes Bernaise, chimichurri, barbecue or other sauces, if desired 4 cups safflower oil or other vegetable oil with a high smoke point (not olive oil) 2-3 pounds (900 grams to 1.35 kilograms) high-quality steak such as striploin or rib eye, cut into cubes Salt and pepper, to taste 2 cups quartered mushrooms 2 cups small broccoli florets 1 cup mini-potatoes, pre-cooked and cut in half 1 bunch asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths In a small dish, mix together mayo, Dijon and horseradish until smooth. In a separate dish, combine soy, lime juice, sesame oil and chili flakes and mix well. Place homemade sauces along with any desired prepared sauces on table for later. Heat oil in a fondue pot over medium until it reaches between 375 and 400 F on an instant-read thermometer. Meanwhile, season steak cubes on all sides with salt and pepper, and arrange steak and vegetables on platter at the table. When oil is hot, set up fondue burner according to manufacturer’s instructions and safely light burner tableside. With everyone seated, bring hot oil to table. Using longhandled fondue forks, spear meat and cook in oil for about 90 second for medium rare. (Vegetables can be cooked any amount of time, to taste.) Dip cooked meat and vegetables in sauces, as desired, before eating. (If fondue forks are metal, they will be hot so use caution before eating from them.) Serves 4 to 6. whiskyChocolate Fondue Alterna-dips When the meat, bread, veg- Here is your chocolate fix – it is Valentine’s Day, after all. Try to find a chocolate that is over 50-per-cent cacao without being crazy expensive (look for brands like Callebaut, Lindt or Valrhona). Ready time: 25 minutes 1½ cups heavy cream 1 pound (500 grams) high-quality semi-sweet chocolate, chopped up 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 tablespoon Irish whiskey or brandy (optional) 3 cups fresh strawberries, pineapple, mango, grapes, kiwi or other fruit Cubed pound cake, biscuits or cookies, as desired Bring approximately 4 inches of water to a boil in a heavy saucepan. Choose a metal mixing bowl that sits nicely over the top of saucepan, turn burner down to a simmer and heat cream in metal bowl. Once cream is hot to the touch, stir in chocolate, a bit at a time, until smooth and silky. (Take care to keep water out of chocolate bowl; even a drop can make chocolate seize up.) Stir in vanilla and whiskey or brandy, if using. Arrange fruit and other dippers on platters at the table. Transfer melted chocolate to fondue pot, if using, or to a pre-warmed heatproof dish. The best way to keep chocolate warm tableside is to perch above a votive candle or very gentle flame as chocolate burns easily. Using long-handled dipping forks, dip fruit, cake, cookies and other treats until chocolate is all gone. Serves 4 to 6. etables and fruit are all gone, what else can you dip? As it turns out, a whole lot. Amp up your cheese fondue choices with bits of hard salami, tortilla chips, edamame or blackberries (trust me). Instead of plunging beef into hot oil, go vegan with tofu cubes, chick peas, eggplant slices or balls of sticky rice. Seafood fondue is delicious: Heat the oil as you would for beef, but lay out raw shrimp, squid rings, oysters and cubes of raw fish. Serve with cocktail and tartar sauces for dips. Chocolate fondue gets interesting when you go with salty dippers like pretzels and potato chips instead of more expected sweets. Also great and a little bit different: dried fruits like figs and apricots that have been soaked in brandy, hunks of fresh coconut, walnuts and dates. S AT U R D AY , F e b ruary 1 3 , 2 016 wine & spirits Warm wines for cool climes Even if you’re stuck at home this month, you can still travel via your taste buds A beppi crosariol wine@globeandmail.com @Beppi_Crosariol ccording to the romantic script of wine appreciation, the best place to enjoy a bottle is near the source. As in the region where it was grown or, better still, beside the winery itself, preferably on a picnic blanket next to the vines. I tend to concur. Those bottles we thirstily haul back from vacation often seem to lose their soul in transit. Or so the cliché goes. But there’s a contrarian and less-romantic script that I think holds equally true. Wines grown in warm regions tend to taste better in cool places, whereas cool-climate wines are often best flattered by warm surroundings. It’s a matter of biology – the vine’s as much as the human’s. Cool conditions preserve fruit acidity and hold the brakes on sugar development, resulting in lighter, more refreshing wines on the whole. Regions with intense sunlight and dry heat, in contrast, accelerate the ripen- e n t e r ta i n i n g ing cycle, making it easier to farm berries with high sugar and flavour intensity. That translates into higher-alcohol wines with bigger body, the sort that can hold mighty appeal in the middle of a Canadian February. (The food on the table can, of course, change everything; I’m merely generalizing.) So. how about some voluptuous “winter” wines from sunny climes? Domaine de la Colline St-Jean Vacqueyras 2012 (France) SCORE: 92 PRICE: $24.95 The Mediterranean scrub of wild herbs known collectively in France as garrigue comes through undeniably in this classic, succulent and bold southern Rhône blend of grenache, syrah and mourvèdre. The wine is dark and concentrated, with blackberry and raspberry syrup flavours infused with lavender, thyme, leather and black pepper. Awesome for braised, saucy red meats. Drink now or let it appreciate for up to a dozen years. Available in Ontario. Planeta Chardonnay 2013 (Italy) SCORE: 92 PRICE: $44.95 The Mediterranean island of Sicily is home to many indigenous grape varieties. Chardonnay is not one of them. Yet the same grape that can yield nervy, flinty whites way up north in Chablis in France can shine in the southern Italian sun – at least in the right winemaking hands. Planeta, one of Sicily’s modern pioneers, hits the mark with this full-bodied, smoothly oaked example. Rich tropical fruit and apricot notes are carried on a soft texture along with butter and vanilla. Food suggestion: creamy, buttery dishes. Various prices in Alberta, $40 in Quebec. T h e g lo b e a n d m a i l Cave de Roquebrun La Grange des Combes Saint-ChinianRoquebrun 2013 (France) SCORE: 91 PRICE: $18.95 Think of very fine Côtes du Rhône, then be glad you’re not paying $25-plus for the pleasure. Located in the southern Languedoc region, Cave de Roquebrun crafts this medium-full-bodied red with 50-per-cent syrah plus grenache and mourvèdre, a classic Rhône combo. Concentrated yet juicy, with spice and bright acidity and more lavender in your face than a good scrub with fine hotel soap. Try it with anything involving lamb. $20.10 in Quebec. Tinhorn Creek Gewürztraminer 2014 (British Columbia) SCORE: 90 PRICE: $18.95 Gewürztraminer calls Alsace its spiritual home. The French region is pretty far north, but it enjoys uncharacteristically dry, sunny conditions for its latitude. One can say the same of the south Okanagan Valley, where Tinhorn Creek ably teases out luscious flesh from this musky, aromatically exuberant grape. Medium-bodied, the 2014 is round and veers toward off-dry, with a sweet midpalate of classic lychee and stone fruit joined by citrus, rosewater and gingery spice. Perfect for spicy stir fries or curries. $15.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $19.98 in Saskatchewan. Rustenberg RM Nicholson 2013 (South Africa) SCORE: 90 PRICE: $19.95 One of South Africa’s venerable estates, Rustenberg, founded 1682, sadly suffered serious damage in January as wildfires raged through the drought-stricken Simonsberg district of Stellenbosch, destroying 12 acres of vines at the estate and potentially polluting more with smoke taint. This 2013 was picked long ago, of course, though you’ll still find a completely coincidental, and pleasant, smoky note on the finish. The smartly blended mix of shiraz, merlot and cabernet sauvignon is full-bodied and polished in texture, showing jammy black currant, black pepper and charred-meat characters against dry, gently sticky tannins and fresh acidity. Outstanding for the money. Ready to drink now with steak, it should evolve well for at least six years – even under that handy screwcap. Various prices in Alberta. Boutari Naoussa Xinomavro 2013 (Greece) SCORE: 89 PRICE: $13.95 Under Greece’s sunshine, the red xinomavro grape manages, unusually, to retain firm structure. Think of sturdy, earthy nebbiolo, responsible for the big reds of Barolo in Italy’s Piedmont. This offering from a large, prominent producer is medium-full-bodied and very dry, with a chalky texture counterbalanced by mouthwatering acidity, revealing notes of cherry juice and leather. A fine, affordable match for the leg of lamb you splurged on. $15.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $16.99 in Saskatchewan, $15.05 in Quebec. Tiago Cabaço Premium White 2014 (Portugal) SCORE: 88 PRICE: $14.95 The full name of this enticing white from southern Portugal’s Alentejo region is “.com Premium.” The Internet-inspired suffix is our clue that the hands behind the bottle might be young. Tiago Cabaço, from a winemaking family, launched his own wine business and prides himself on being at the vanguard of his country’s new age. Light and crisp, as one might expect from a Portuguese white, it’s nonetheless surprisingly fleshy, an unusual blend of roupeiro, antao vaz, arinto, verdelho and the oily-textured French grape viognier. Ripe and mouthwatering, with suggestions of apple, peach and herbs – and much more interesting than most Italian pinot grigios at the same price. Available in Ontario. 15 16 T h e g lo b e a n d m a i l society ON THE SCENE S AT U R DAY , F e b ru a ry 1 3 , 2 016 1 2 Sparkle and shine Vancouverites toast a revamped Van Cleef & Arpels, while in Toronto, architecture enthusiasts gather for Dinner by Design 3 NOLAN BRYANT nbryant@globeandmail.com @NolanBryant V an Cleef & Arpels, the venerable French jewellery house, recently unveiled a new and improved shop inside Birks’s West Hastings Street mecca. To celebrate the occasion on Jan. 27, it was dinner in-store for a handful of Vancouver’s top Van Cleef collectors. The new space packs a well-jewelled punch within its just-over 1,400 square feet: Inside, the shop within the shop is lit by sparkling chandeliers, walls are appropriately gold leafed, furnishing are covered in fine fabrics and, tucked to one side is an area where, should the mood strike, one could order something special from the house’s Place Vendôme workrooms in Paris. Freshly lacquered cases and glass cloches house precious creations. In one display, the brand’s familiar Alhambra clovers surround a substantial hammered gold cuff similar to those worn by Jackie in her Onassis years. Nearby, under an illuminated cloche, an unassuming-at-first-glance broach is a standout piece featuring a fairy, one of the house’s reoccurring emblems, first introduced in the 1940s. But what makes this one special is that it’s perched on a rock crafted of perfectly matched sapphires in the “mystery setting,” a technique patented in 1933 that gives uniform stones on intricate tracks the appearance of being a floating grid, a favourite of magpies like the Duchess of Windsor and Elizabeth Taylor, and an innovation with which Van Cleef & Arpels became synonymous. The jewellery, though steeped in history and linked to stylish ladies of yesteryear, is as lively looking and wearable as ever, and desirability for the whimsy-filled wares from a new generation is high. Proof of the latter could be seen around the necks, fingers, wrists and, if you can believe it, ankles of the fashionable Vancouverites in attendance, which included Joyce Gong, Lin Zhou, Grace Gong and Tiffany Liu who were all out for a first look at the new space. On hand, too, in from New York was Alain Bernard, Van Cleef & Arpels CEO of the Americas and Birks’s Montrealbased president and CEO JeanChristophe Bédos, who spoke of the long-standing relationship between the two houses. Also out: Organic Eco-Centre Corp. CEO and philanthropist Paul Oei and his wife, Loretta Lai; Lululemon’s vice-president of public relations and global communications Kate Chartrand and Lululemon’s director of innovation Brian Peterson. Monogram Dinner by Design, the do-good event with annual happenings in three major Canadian cities, returned to the Design Exchange on Jan. 20 for the 2016 Toronto edition. This year, the event, which has become an unofficial kick off of sorts for design week in Toronto, saw 11 celebrated interior designers rally together under one roof, each tasked with devising one-off dining spaces that would later be shown to design enthusiasts and then feasted in by a select few, all in support of local not-for-profit organizations. Funds raised from this latest occasion benefitted the Design Exchange and Casey House, Canada’s first free-standing HIV/ AIDS facility (and the first organization to be on the receiving end of the initiative’s funds back in 2011). The 11 spaces inside the Design Exchange ranged from the trèsmodern to the weirdly whimsical. Bortolotto, the architecture and interior design firm tasked with the revitalization of the Ontario College of Art and Design’s Rosalie Sharp Pavilion, created a faux construction site overlooking a city skyline, scaffolding and all. In another space, architects from Moriyama & Teshima, co-architects of the Aga Khan Museum’s Ismaili Centre, brought the outdoors into their space too, by surrounding their table with translucent beads, leaving guests to feel as though they were dining in the rain. The Design Agency created a playful setting with the use of neon lights and plenty of mirrors that allowed those seated at the table to see new sides of their tablemates. Among the designers and design enthusiasts that came together at the DX for a cause: dermatologist Dr. Sandy Skotnicki; Bottecchia Artistic Group partners Hal Eisen and Andrew Bottecchia; Sportsnet host David Amber; restaurateur Janet Zuccarini; Manulife’s vice president of branding Jeronimo De Miguel; AyA Kitchens and Baths Ltd. CEO and DX board member Dave Marcus; The Drake Hotel’s Jeff Stober; Spafax CEO Raymond Girard and his husband, photographer Laird Kay; and Design Exchange president Shauna Levy. Birks and Van Cleef & Arpels unveil a revamped space, Vancouver 1. Grace Gong. 2. Jean-Christophe Bédos at dinner. 3. Loretta Lai. 4. Alain Bernard. 5. Kate Chartrand. 6. Lin Zhou. 7. Annie He and Flora Song. 4 photos by Nolan bryant 5 6 7 8 Special to The Globe and Mail 9 Monogram Dinner by Design, Toronto 8. A Vitra screen in front of designer Guido Costantino’s space. 9. David Amber and Emma Thompson. 10. Françoise Turner-Larcade and Christian Vermast. 11. Melissa Millar and Jeronimo De Miguel. 12. Robbie Metherell and Alexandra Stoewner. 13. Tess Roman and Derek Price. 14. The Design Agency’s mirror- and neon-filled space. photos by Ryan Emberley 10 14 11 12 13 18 T h e g lo b e a n d m a i l E N T E R TA I N I N G S AT U R DAY , F e b ru a ry 1 3 , 2 016 in the kitchen Angry bird This spicy chicken arrabbiata, featuring fresh chilies, is packed with flavour Chicken arrabbiata Jamie Oliver jamie@globeandmail.com @jamieoliver I Photo David Loftus Q&A “ What’s a simple dessert I can have ready way ahead of dinner? @AliWali888 Tiramisu springs straight to mind. Use good coffee, shop-bought biscuits, beaten mascarpone and grated quality chocolate and it’ll be beautiful – and it can be made a day in advance. Keep things simple with fresh seasonal fruit macerated in sugar and a dribble of lemon juice, served with good ice cream. And while we’re on the subject of ice cream, you can’t go wrong with smashed-up Maltesers scattered over your favourite flavour – it’s the quickest, naughtiest dessert ever. Have a question for Jamie Oliver? Email jamie@globeandmail.com or tweet @GlobeStyle with the hashtag #jamieatglobe. For more information, go to www.jamieoliver.com. Horoscope enjoy all meats, but I have to say, chicken is a wonderful carrier of flavour. From the skin and the breast, to the wing and leg meat, it really does offer lots of different flavours and textures to work with. So this week, I wanted to give you one of my favourite weeknight dishes that embraces the most popular part of the bird: the breast. Bashed until thin, seasoned and grilled quickly, this is a great way to get tender, tasty meat in no time at all. I’ve paired it with arrabbiata (literally translated as “angry” in English), which is basically a spicy tomato sauce from Sicily. It’s punchy, flavour-packed and a proper sinus cleanser. Instead of making it with crushed dried chilies, I’ve fried whole chilies in oil (be careful to prick them with a sharp knife first, or they will explode in your face) to get a fantastic robust chili sweet flavour, which I think is what arrabbiata should be all about. Together, this is a great dinner that’s guaranteed to be an instant hit, if your family is anything like mine. Just a bit of advice when it comes to buying chicken: I recommend looking for organic, pasture-raised or certified-humane chickens, rather than the basic birds found in so many restaurants and shops these days. I’ve been to farms of both basic and higherwelfare standards, and there’s absolutely no way I’d feed basic chickens to my kids – if you’d seen the conditions, you wouldn’t either. 4 organic, pasture-raised or certified-humane chicken breasts Sea salt and black pepper Olive oil 5 fresh red chilies 6 cloves of garlic 1 bunch of fresh basil 3 398-ml tins of plum tomatoes 10 black olives (pits in) 1 ¼ pounds (600 grams) mixed ripe tomatoes 2 tablespoons small capers 2 handfuls of arugula ½ a lemon Parmesan cheese Place the chicken breasts between 2 layers of parchment paper and bash with a rolling pin until thick. Season the chicken with sea salt, black pepper and rub all over with a little drizzle of oil. Set aside. Prick 4 chilies, finely slice 4 cloves of garlic, then pick the basil leaves. Heat a good lug of oil in a medium pan over a low heat, then add the chilies, garlic, basil stalks and half the leaves. Cook gently for 15 to 20 minutes, or until softened but not coloured. Remove the basil leaves (which should be beautifully translucent) and save them for later. Fish out the chilies, scrape off the skins, then slice them open and remove the seeds. Return the flesh to the pan. Turn the heat up to medium and add the tinned tomatoes and remaining basil leaves. Break up the tomatoes with the back of a spoon, then allow the sauce to bubble away for at least 20 minutes, or until it has thickened and the tomatoes have broken down. Pit and tear up the olives, roughly chop the tomatoes, then add to the sauce along with most of the capers. Season to taste. Place a griddle pan on a high heat and allow it to get super hot. Once hot, place the chicken breasts on the griddle and cook for a couple of minutes on each side, or until golden and cooked through. Leave to rest for a couple of minutes, then slice the chicken into long strips. To serve, peel and finely slice the remaining garlic and fry it in a little olive oil along with the remaining capers until crispy. Pour the tomato sauce onto a platter and lay the chicken slices on top. Deseed, finely chop and sprinkle with chili, along with the garlic, capers, arugula and basil leaves. Finely grate over some lemon zest and Parmesan, then serve. Serves 4 to 6. If SUNDAY is your birthday: Cosmic activity on your birthday will stimulate your creative side but there is also a danger that you could fall prey to senseless fears. Aquarius is a sign that likes to work with others, so hook up with those who share your outlook. SALLY BROMPTON If SATURDAY is your birthday: The message of your birthday chart is that life isn’t all about earning and consuming, it is about less material things as well. When it comes to generosity of spirit you have no peers. The more you give this year the more you will receive. ARIES (March 21 - April 20): Stay focused and keep your ultimate goal in mind at all times. If you let your attention wander you will find it very hard to get back to what you should be doing. You know what it is you desire, so don’t let anything distract you. CANCER (June 22 - July 23): You can force through changes if you wish over the next 48 hours but is that really such a wise move? You may win in the short term but it will also create a lot of ill feeling in the long term. Persuasion is always better than coercion. LIBRA (Sept. 24 - Oct. 23): You will be even more forceful than usual this weekend but while you will no doubt get a great deal done you will also make a few enemies. That’s OK. Later on, when you get the chance, you can turn on the charm and win them round. CAPRICORN (Dec. 22 - Jan. 20): You will have to work hard to keep your emotions in check this weekend. But if you do lose your temper don’t feel too bad about it because most likely you will have suffered the kind of provocation even a saint would find hard to ignore. TAURUS (April 21 - May 21): You will be put to the test this weekend and it will be the kind of test you come through with flying colors. There may be a few bruises and scratches to show for your struggles but you will wear your wounds with pride. LEO (July 24 - Aug. 23): You are not the only one with a stubborn streak and you will find yourself up against an equally determined foe this weekend. If you both keep pushing something will sooner or later break, so use common sense and meet them halfway. SCORPIO (Oct. 24 - Nov. 22): Mars in your birth sign makes you a bit argumentative and with Mars linked to Jupiter, planet of excess, this weekend there is a danger you will go way over the top. But what of it? At least people know where they stand with you. AQUARIUS (Jan. 21 - Feb. 19): You need to come to terms with the fact that you alone are responsible for the events of your life. Ultimately there is no such thing as coincidence – everything happens for a reason. Accept that fact and find ways to make it work for you. GEMINI (May 22 - June 21): If you are carrying a grudge against someone then it’s time to let it go. Yes, of course, they deserve your displeasure but that’s not the point – the point is that you are the one who is suffering from it, so forgive and forget and move on. VIRGO (Aug. 24 - Sept. 23): You have been pushing yourself extremely hard of late and could do with a rest. You can do yourself a massive favor over the next few days by turning down any extra offers of work that come your way, even if they pay well. SAGITTARIUS (Nov. 23 - Dec. 21): You can, if you wish, ignore a problem of some kind but if you do it will return with a vengeance later on. Relationship issues, in particular, must be dealt with promptly. The longer you leave them the harder it will be to kiss and make up. PISCES (Feb. 20 - Mar. 20): The more others demand that you change your ways to suit their needs this weekend the more you must dig in your heels and refuse to budge. You are right to be stubborn. Let the world know you will not be bullied, not now, not ever. Discover more about yourself at sallybrompton.com Saturday, February 13, 2016