White Magic - Rene V Steiner

WHITE MAGIC
New York
Hong Kong
London
Milan
Nagoya
Beijing
Dubai
Sydney
Shanghai
Moscow
WHITE MAGIC
I
magine the sensuous beauty of the
worlds most beautiful and rarest
pearls, white South Sea pearls,
transformed into stunning jewellery
pieces by some of today’s premier
jewellery designers. The South Sea Pearl
Consortium has made this dream a reality
due to the generosity of the Paspaley
Pearling Company and 17 international
jewellery designers especially selected
to represent the best the world has to
offer.
The year 2005 is a special year for
white South Sea pearls; it marks the
50th anniversary of the first South Sea
pearl farm that was established at Kuri
Bay in one of the remotest parts of the
Kimberley coast in Northern Australia.
Following the collapse of the natural
South Sea pearl industry soon after
World War II, Kuri Bay was established
by the last of the Australian pearlers
with a vision to culture white South Sea
pearls-the prize of all the world’s pearls.
50 years later, the cultured white South
Sea pearl has become a reality. And this
collaboration between man and nature
is being celebrated by bringing together
these magnificent pearls and some of
the world’s best jewellery designers.
The Paspaley Pearling Company has
made available the finest gem quality
white cultured South Sea pearls from its
Australian pearl farms, including pearls
from its famous Kuri Bay pearl farm,
to these talented designers, who have
together created a unique collection of
jewellery entitled “White Magic”.
The result of this collaboration between
the world’s greatest pearl source and top
designers is a truly magical collection
which showcases the jewellery style
and talent of each designer as their
imagination is captivated by the stunning
beauty of these gem quality pearls.
And just as each South Sea pearl is
unique, this collection is also unique,
as each of these pieces is part of a
collection of pearl jewellery never before
assembled. The exhibition will travel the
world and will be seen in many cities
including New York, London, Milan,
Moscow, Dubai, Hong Kong, Shanghai,
Nagoya (Japan) and Sydney. “White
Magic” will be displayed in locations as
special as the jewels themselves, such
as the Royal Opera House in London
and the Cooper Hewitt Museum in New
York.
In this brochure you can read about
the Paspaley Pearling Company and
their dedication to provide the best
environment in which to produce the
perfect pearl, as well as information
about the designers themselves. White
South Sea pearls have a special magic
of their own and they certainly have cast
a spell on one of New York’s leading
photographers, Douglas Dubler, who
photographed this collection in a series
of stunning images featured in this
brochure.
This is a unique South Sea Pearl
Consortium event that brings together
so many talents and achievements. The
result is a truly magical exhibition to
celebrate the beauty of a magical gem,
the white South Sea cultured pearl.
WHITE MAGIC
SOUTH SEA PEARL CONSORTIUM
F
ounded in 1995, the South Sea
Pearl Consortium is a non-profit
organisation created by Nicholas
Paspaley AC and several like-minded
people to educate jewellery designers
and retailers, as well as the consumer, to
the special qualities of the white South
Sea pearl.
Since its early days beginning in
Asia, the consortium has grown along
with the great interest and demand for
information on the largest and rarest
of pearls, South Sea cultured pearls.
The consortium now has a presence in
Europe and the United States, as well as
Asia, providing information to the press,
retailers, designers and consumers.
The SSPC agenda includes holding
seminars for the retailers to educate
them about South Sea cultured pearls
and how to make them a part of their
shop inventories. The consortium also
provides materials to help train retail
staff to enable them to answer their
customer’s questions concerning South
Sea pearls. A regular newsletter, press
releases and promotional events, as well
as representing the South Sea pearl at
industry forums, completes the SSPC
programme.
In order to understand the qualities
of the white South Sea cultured pearl
and what makes it so sought after, it is
important to understand the history of
these gems. The history of the South
Sea pearl is fascinating; these pearls
have been prized above all others for
thousands of years. Indeed, wars have
been fought over these precious gems
and many legends and stories are woven
around the pearls of old. From the
earliest times, white South Sea pearls
were being traded in Asia and India and,
as early as the 16th century, travelled as
far away as Europe. Larger, whiter and
more lustrous than any other pearl,
South Sea pearls were valued above all
others. Early pearl fishers risked many
dangers to dive deep for the oysters that
held these precious gems. And just as in
these bygone days, the divers of today’s
South Sea pearl farms still face the perils
of the sea, as they continue to dive for
the wild mother oysters in their quest for
the host of the perfect cultured pearl.
Today natural white South Sea pearls
are hardly ever found. Sadly the search
for natural pearls in recent history
pushed the South Sea pearl oyster, in
its natural habitat of Australasia, to the
edge of extinction. Even as late as the
1980s these oysters were being taken
and killed for their valuable mother
-of-pearl shell, or just to find the
natural pearl that may be in the oyster.
Consequently, most of the South Sea
pearl oyster beds have been wiped out.
Fortunately, recognising this danger, the
Australian Government protected the
Australian natural pearl beds since the
1970s through government regulation
and prohibition on diving for the oyster,
except for the purpose of pearl culture,
and only under a very strict quota
regime.
and orient. Lustre such as this is only
possible with nacre from the South Sea
pearl oyster. This lustre comes not only
from the surface of the pearl but from
deep within the pearl, much as light
filters up from a sea bed. It has a soft,
creamy voluptuous intangible appearance that changes mood in different
light conditions. Such lustre can only be
natural colour and lustre.
South Sea cultured pearls are by their
nature the ultimate pearl and a gift for a
lifetime and the generations who come
after. Each South Sea pearl is as unique
as the person who wears them. Indeed,
many of the world’s most extraordinary
pearl strands are South Sea cultured
pearls, and some have taken a decade
When you consider the unique environment from
which this pearl comes and the meticulous and
onerous care and attention required to provide the
ideal conditions to produce these gems, you cannot
fail but to be in awe of nature’s ability to produce,
with a helping hand from man, such wondrous
pearls.
Almost three quarters of the world’s
Pinctada maxima oysters, from which the
white South Sea cultured pearls come,
grow in beds that lie off the untouched
coast of north west Australia. It remains
one of the few virgin coastlines in the
world today and its protection is critical
to the future of the South Sea pearl.
Like no other pearl, the great beauty
of white South Sea pearls, natural
or cultured, comes from their lustre
produced by the nacre of the South Sea
pearl oyster – it is not possible to achieve
this through chemical enhancement.
Guarantees and information such
as this is important to the customer.
Reliable retailers should provide the best
possible information for the customer
when they are making a choice over
which pearls to purchase. A reputable
retailer can assure their customers that
their South Sea cultured pearls have
or more to assemble. The rarity, size and
lustre of these pearls make them truly a
gift from nature.
For more information visit the SSPC
website on www.sspc.net.
WHITE MAGIC
PASPALEY PEARLS
T
he year 2005 is something of a
celebratory year for Paspaley
Pearls. It has been fifty years
since the establishment of Kuri Bay - the
world’s first historic South Sea pearl farm,
where the first cultured South Sea pearls
were farmed. The Paspaley Company
began pearling on the Australian coast
70 years ago, diving for South Sea pearl
oysters in search of natural South Sea
pearls, and the lucrative mother-of-pearl
from the oyster shells.
Having pioneered the cultured
South Sea pearl industry, the Paspaley
Company now owns and operates 20
farm sites over 1500 kilometres, in the
remotest part of Northern Australia, on
the Kimberley coast, including Kuri Bay
which continues to produce many of the
world’s finest pearls.
Each year Paspaley dives for the
mother oysters, which are taken from the
wild oyster beds off the 80 Mile Beach,
situated south of Broome in Western
Australia. These oysters are taken to the
Paspaley farms, which are all located on
the isolated and uninhabited Kimberley
coast. In this beautiful area the pristine
waters supply a rich soup of plankton
nutrients to the mother oysters. These
ingredients found in this area are
essential for the creation of the thick,
rich South Sea pearl nacre that makes
these pearls the most sought after pearls
in the world.
Due to the remote location of its
farms, the day to day running relies
on the highly sophisticated logistical
support and state-of-the art technology
that Paspaley provides. Paspaley is
entirely self-sufficient in this area, with its
modern fleet of ships and flying boats,
dreamt of producing South Sea pearls of
the same quality as the natural pearls of
long ago. For many years it seemed that
the ability to produce any comparable
pearls would remain a far off dream.
But thanks to Paspaley’s dedication and
commitment, what was once considered
a dream has now become a reality, and
these precious gems are being cultivated
Although the oysters are seeded
by man with a nucleus, they are then
returned to the sea and back into the
hands of nature where for two years
the oyster is left in these ideal waters to
produce the nacre that gives each pearl
its distinctive qualities.
Paspaley takes great pride in the fact
that if a natural pearl and a cultured
Paspaley is known not only as the world’s original
and greatest source of South Sea pearls but is
especially known for the quality of their pearls.
transporting its workers and supplies in
and out of all their farms.
Anyone lucky enough to be flying
over these waters will probably glimpse
saltwater crocodiles – a very good
reason for not swimming in the sea off
the farm – as well as mantra rays, sharks,
dolphins and whales who regularly
inhabit the area.
This first South Sea pearl farm was the
vision of Nicholas Paspaley senior who
in the pristine marine conditions of these
Southern oceans.
Paspaley is totally committed to
making sure that these oysters have
the perfect surroundings to produce
this wonderful thick nacre. The rarity,
size and the quality and richness of this
nacre make these pearls unique above
all cultured pearls; making them as close
to the natural pearl of old as it is possible
to be.
South Sea pearl from their farms were
compared, it would be impossible to
differentiate between the qualities of
their natural nacre.
WHITE MAGIC
THE PASPALEY JOURNEY
T
Nicholas T.J. Paspaley AC
he company has certainly come a
long way since that dream started
at Kuri Bay; a journey that has seen
the present generation of the Paspaley
family spending their lives developing
and investing in the pearling industry
to achieve their father ’s vision. A dream
that now engages the third generation of
the family and has taken Paspaley pearls
from the remotest places in Australia to
the capitals of the world.
Here Nicholas Paspaley, Chairman
of Paspaley Pearls describes the
journey. “My family has devoted several
generations to understanding the
intricacies of the South Sea pearl. It has
been a journey of discovery, dedication,
innovation and investment that has
made the name of Paspaley a leader in
the pearling industry worldwide.
Through a unique collusion between
man and nature, Paspaley produces
the world’s most beautiful and valuable
cultured pearls. Our ultimate aim in the
creation of a pearl is beauty – something
that can only come from perfect layers
of lustrous nacre that make each pearl
unique, irresistible to the eye and
sensual on the skin.
In this respect, Paspaley is blessed,
as we have a combination of the most
important ingredients in creating incomparable cultured pearls – a pristine
oceanic environment and access to the
world ’s most prolific pearl beds which
fortuitously also host the world ’s largest
and finest pearl shells.
Capitalising on the gift of these
invaluable resources over the past 50
years, we have developed our own
unique technology and the world’s
greatest pearl production facilities.
Recognition of the importance of
our natural resources, together with the
pursuit of excellence are the cornerstones
of the Paspaley philosophy. We have
taken extraordinary steps over the years
to preserve the natural environment of
our pearl oysters. One thing we can
never forget is that we are always at the
mercy of Mother Nature and that our
success in harnessing her mysterious
energies will always be dependent on
this partnership with the wild.
In addition to their rarity and high
value, our pearls are one of the finest
examples of nature’s beauty. They are
recognised for their superior quality and
prestigious status over other pearls.
When one can boast these qualities,
you can be confident in having one of the
world’s few truly luxurious products.”
“Unlike other gems, Paspaley South Sea cultured
pearls are born into this world beautiful and
complete . . . ready to be part of a magnificent
strand or a carefully crafted piece of jewellery.
When you see our pearls, when you hold
our pearls, you come to understand why, for
generations, they have captured the imagination of
people from all cultures around the world.”
WHITE MAGIC
KAORU KAY AKIHARA
D
KAORU KAY AKIHARA
Gimel Trading Co. Ltd.
36-2 Okuike- Cho
Ashiya
Hyogo 659-0003
Japan
Tel: +81 797 22 0850
Fax: +81 797 31 6688
esigner Kaoru Kay Akihara works
from her Kobe atelier to present
her creations to a world audience
under the company name Gimel.
Over almost two decades she has
built a faithful client base in her native
Japan, winning a strong following for her
unique work.
On seeing Akihara’s designs it is
evident that this must be the work of
someone whose entire psyche centres
on the importance of tradition and
perfection… certainly she was well
versed in many traditional Japanese arts
and ceremonies as a young woman. Her
introduction to the world of jewellery
came later. After reading economics at
university she decided to study jewellery
appraisal and design at the GIA in Los
Angeles.
Looking closely at Kaoru Akihara’s
work, one is aware that her designs
could not be realised without a total
commitment to excellence. The preparation for a new piece starts with
the careful selection of the precious
stones required. Akihara and her team
hand pick each stone, no matter how
small; matching it against the other
stones to be used next to it so that the
proportion, size, brilliance and colour all
ensure perfect continuity. The traditional
European technique of pavé setting
enables Akihara to achieve a wonderful
hue to her jewellery pieces and to use
precious stones like an artist uses his
palette.
It is the craftsmanship and perfection
in Akihara’s work that led to her
partnership with Paspaley. For Kaoru
Akihara the pearl is now one of her
favourite gemstones. Originally she did
to her philosophy. Over time they
become a part of the wearer’s life and
last for generations beyond. Kaoru
Akihara believes that, as you take these
pearls in your hand or wear them, you
feel a special tenderness towards them
that is not found in any other gem, one
that helps you through life’s challenges;
a gem more personal than any other.
everyday. For Kaoru Akihara the most
important element is that these clasps
are the perfect accompaniment to South
Sea pearls, as they accompany you on
your journey through life, carving your
own unique story.
“As you take pearls in your hand or place them
around your neck, you can feel the special soft
tenderness of the pearls.”
not work with pearls in her jewellery
designs until she saw the quality and
beauty of Paspaley’s South Sea cultured
pearls.
Akihara’s philosophy for Gimel
jewellery pieces is that “Jewellery is a
long lasting beauty to be enjoyed for
generations to come over hundreds of
years”.
Only in South Sea pearls has she
found those same qualities that adhere
Perhaps it is because they too are born
of nature that South Sea pearls are so
captivating.
To enhance her strand of South Sea
pearls Akihara has created four clasps
– one for each season. By adding
different “seasons” to the strand, the
colours of each seasonal clasp bring
out another beautiful aspect. These
clasps are auspicious enough to make a
“grand entrance” or simply to be worn
WHITE MAGIC
KAORU KAY AKIHARA
The deliciously summery strawberry
clasp has been created with diamonds,
rubies and garnets set in platinum and
yellow gold. As well as being the focal
point of the necklace, this clasp can also
be worn as a brooch with an alternative
fastening for the pearl strand.
WHITE MAGIC
LORENZ BÄUMER
T
LORENZ BÄUMER
4, Place Vendôme
75001 Paris
France
Tel: +33 1 42 86 99 33
Fax : +33 1 42 86 99 44
www.lorenzbaumer.com
o become a customer of Lorenz
Baumer is no small feat and
can sometimes be a daunting
experience in itself. In his extravagant
Place Vendôme salon - for which he has
designed and created all the crystal,
bronze, straw and shagreen furnishings
- he first spends hours listening to and
“interviewing” prospective clients, who
may have specially flown in from New
York, Dubaï, Palm Beach, London or
Rome, so as to uncover their personal
world. His ultimate goal is “to design
jewellery that is so distinctive to the
individual that even if they are not
wearing it, one could know whom it
belongs to”. In order to do this, he feels
he must know everything about them even their sense of humour and favourite
foods.
The result is usually quite spectacular
and his most unusual pieces, often
inspired by nature, include a ripe tomato
ring in rich red jasper; a jade leek brooch
with multicoloured sapphires; a diamond
pavé skull with a serpent going through
it; diamond-sparkling strawberry earrings, and a golden bee that seems to
have just landed on a ruby lip-shaped
ring.
Some of Baümer’s work is also
influenced by his love of surfing and of
the ocean. There are rings in the shape
of waves swirling around a diamond or a
pearl; thin diamond pavé ropes shaped
like sailor’s knots wrapped around
sea-coloured gems, and a yellow and
white diamond ring in the shape of two
entwined sea snakes.
His quest for perfection and
uniqueness sometimes take him to the
most remote areas of the globe in search
design is as unexpected as is much
of his jewellery. He initially trained as
an engineer in Paris, but after helping
his mother, a porcelain painter, create
jewellery he became hooked. He then
launched his own line of costume
jewellery as well as one-of-a-kind
furniture, before successfully turning to
fine jewellery and becoming the icon he
level of elegance and exclusivity”.
In addition to his exclusive, one-off
orders and the work commissioned
by other companies, Lorenz Baümer
designs a number of limited series
of fine jewellery with names such as
gardener, poet, or architect, which are
exhibited and sold exclusively in his
Paris salon. He works with a team of nine
“I love pearls because they are the world, the
images on their orient reflect the world that
surrounds them.”
of the most beautiful and astounding
gems. Yet he also likes variety and
surprise and may very well include tiger’s
eye, rhodochrosite, jade or a simple
pebble picked up on a sandy beach.
Colours, materials, textures, shapes
and the clever use of light reflection are
all part of the alchemy which makes a
Lorenz Baümer creation.
An avid sportsman and lover of
art, Lorenz Baumer’s path to jewellery
is today.
His talent was quickly spotted by some
of the most prestigious international
luxury brands and although few know
it, Lorenz Baümer is the creator behind
a number of their jewellery collections,
watch designs, perfume bottles and gift
items.
As he puts it: “Fine jewellery is the
highest, purest form of luxury and as
such it is able to lift a brand on to a new
specialists and his designs are produced
in some of the finest workshops in Paris,
combining both the highest-quality
traditional craftsmanship and state-ofthe-art technology.
It is a testament to his talent that four
of his pieces of jewellery are part of the
permanent collection of the Musée des
Arts Décoratifs in Paris.
WHITE MAGIC
LORENZ BÄUMER
This unusual set of jewellery suggests
constant movement with its haphazard
lines and serpentine curves.
Necklace in 18 carat white gold, pavé
set with diamonds and gem quality
South Sea cultured pearls.
A pair of serpentine earrings in 18
carat white gold pavé set with sapphires,
diamonds and pink tourmalines,
completed with Paspaley South Sea
cultured pearls.
WHITE MAGIC
COLEMAN DOUGLAS PEARLS
B
COLEMAN DOUGLAS PEARLS LTD
97b Drayton Gardens
London SW10 9QU
U.K.
Tel: +44 207 373 3369
Fax: +44 207 835 2068
www.colemandouglaspearls.com
orn in Mexico, Chrissie Douglas is
the daughter of two well-known
English artists - an abstract painter
and a portrait artist - who emigrated
there after WWII. Thanks to her parents,
she was, at a very young age, exposed to
the world of art and learnt the aesthetic
value of mixing colour and texture. Her
artistic background gradually found its
expression in her passion for jewellery,
and more particularly pearls. She is
today acknowledged as one of the few
pearl specialists and pearl jewellery
designers in the UK and is acclaimed
for her novel approach and her flair for
creative design.
Chrissie Douglas developed her expertise in pearls and gemstones in the
early 1980s in both Hong Kong and
Malaysia, before settling in the UK.
In 1989 she founded her own company, Coleman Douglas Pearls, where
she is backed by a highly skilled and
motivated team, including personally
trained stringers, craftsmen, goldsmiths,
silversmiths and stylists.
This thriving company, whose mission
statement is “pearls as never before”,
specializes in natural and cultured
pearls and creates exciting, unique
and original jewellery for an array of
clients worldwide, including celebrities,
European
aristocracy,
international
government figures, and members of
the fashion elite.
The designer successfully builds
upon the centuries-old traditions of
pearl jewellery, whilst adding her own
personal touch of contemporary vitality.
Constantly amazing and enthralling
jewellery lovers across the globe, she
presents pearls in as many different
Chelsea Range, Fashion Range, Bridal
Range and Birthstone Range. Necklaces,
chokers, earrings and bracelets are
created with pearls often combined with
a variety of precious and semi-precious
stones and 18k gold or platinum.
Some pieces such as the beautiful
Titania multi-stranded choker, which
comprises a large choker and a loose
semi-precious stones, was recognized
as being the first of its kind, and in 2002
Coleman Douglas Pearls launched its
Retro Collection, introducing the novel
concept of combining precious stones
with leather. It included the Harley
Davidson-inspired biker-chic pieces and
the Warrior Pearl designs, for which
Chrissie Douglas received the 2002
“The beauty of pearls has always seduced me.
Intrinsically linked with romance, art and beauty,
pearls lend a mystique to their wearer and a lustre
that lights every complexion.”
ways as is possible, and thus relentlessly
pushes the boundaries of jewellery
design to new creative dimensions.
Chrissie Douglas works closely
with the fashion industry as well as
bridal fashion designers and each
year presents two stunning collections
consisting of six self-explanatory ranges
- some sophisticated and upmarket, and
others more casual and affordable: The
Fine Jewellery Range, Couture Range,
necklace, are signature pieces. Produced
in 1994, as part of Chrissie Douglas’ first
full collection, this piece was showcased
at the Chelsea Festival Fashion Show
alongside work by Vivienne Westwood.
It was also the inspiration for John
Galliano’s first Dior collection.
Chrissie Douglas has been widely
recognized as a precursor in jewellery
trends. In 1999 her Atlantis collection,
which focused on pearls strung with
Tahitian Pearl Trophy award.
Coleman Douglas Pearls are on
permanent exhibition at the Earth
Treasury section of the Natural History
Museum in London and, two Coleman
Douglas Pearls’ designs form part of the
prestigious “Pearls” exhibition which
was inaugurated in New York in 2004
and is scheduled to tour in the USA,
Canada, Tokyo and London.
WHITE MAGIC
COLEMAN DOUGLAS PEARLS
This tiered necklace with matching
earrings and pin is inspired by the
Rwandan name for dawn (Museke),
literally translated, “laugh with me”.
“My finished piece, Museke, encapsulates the natural lustre so intrinsic and
unique to South Sea pearls.
It is a fluid yet complex piece, tiered in
its structure, that draws attention to the
baroque and almost sculptured nature
of the pearls by the complementary
contrast to small faceted morganite and
aquamarine bead detail with dramatic
shell quills.
In spite of the piece’s grandeur its
fluidity allows it to become one with
the wearer imparting the natural lustre
of the pearls to the wearer’s skin while
allowing the faceted morganite to lend a
luminous glow at the same time.
It is a piece that stands alone in its
strength, detail and power – this, I think,
is its particular beauty – its design works
with natural materials to impart an overall
beauty striking in its naturalness.”
WHITE MAGIC
HENRY DUNAY
W
HENRY DUNAY DESIGNS INC.
22 West 48th Street, Suite 505
New York NY 10036
U.S.A.
Tel: +212 168 9700
Fax: +212 944 0308
www.henrydunay.com
ith some 50 years experience,
more than 50 national and
international awards, and
patrons including Hillary Clinton,
Elisabeth Taylor, Tom Cruise, and the
late Princess of Wales, Henry Dunay
is considered to be one of the most
imaginative jewellers in the world and
his bold and unique designs continue to
take the world of jewellery by storm.
It all started in New York when a young
boy of 14 chose to begin a seven-year
apprenticeship with a master goldsmith
who quickly recognized his exceptional
talent.
At the age of 21, Henry Dunay
decided to branch off on his own, and
within a short period of time, established
his reputation as a creator of one-of-akind designs using the meticulous
pavé technique. By 1965, Henry Dunay
Designs was born.
Beauty and perfection have always
been Henry Dunay’s passion and his is
a love affair with precious jewels and
metals. He spends days sorting out
lustrous pearls and gems in search of the
rare few he considers to be unique and
which inspire him.
It isn’t, however, obvious beauty that
catches his eye. As Dunay puts it “a
flawless sapphire can sometimes look
utterly lifeless”. His focus turns more
towards the rare and exotic, to the
stones that cast a spell and that “talk to
you”.
Dunay’s jewellery is a combination of
expert craftsmanship with trend-setting
designs. The key elements are harmony,
balance and softness. Every piece is
part of a collection named for its handengraved textures, precious materials
carved eggs of natural quartz crystal
(inspired by Faberge). Each piece is
inscribed with the designer’s name
and finished with hearts signifying the
designer’s love for his work and regard
for his clients.
Over a span of some 40 years the
highest national and international
awards have been bestowed on Dunay,
of fine jewellery as an art form. In the
same year he was invited to become
a member of the Council of Fashion
Designers of America
In 2003 and 2004, Henry Dunay was
commissioned by the Global Vision
for Peace to design a peace pin for
the Oscars. Amongst those celebrities
wearing the pin were Nicole Kidman,
“I consider pearls to be the most beautiful of all
gems and have taken great pleasure in working
with them over the past 50 years – rather than
being regulated by man, they are the work of the
oyster – this is what gives them their unique lustre
and shape.”
or artistic theme. These collections are
characterised by some of the world’s
rarest gemstones set in softly rounded
forms, often with a variety of textures
creating the illusion of movement.
Designs include one-of-a-kind and
limited edition jewellery and collectibles,
themed collections of earrings, bracelets,
necklaces, rings, personal accessories
and objects ranging from jewelled belt
buckles and luxury timepieces to hand
including Robb Report Magazine’s
World’s Best Jewelry Designer for
two consecutive years and DeBeers’
prestigious Diamonds International
Award, which he has already won four
times.
In 1989 Dunay became a founding
member and the first president of the
American Jewelry Design Council – a
non-profit organization of America’s top
designers dedicated to the recognition
Daniel Day Lewis, Susan Sarandon, Ben
Kingsley and Annie Lennox.
Despite this exceptional success and
a very full schedule, Dunay commits time
and talent to many deserving causes
including paediatric, AIDS research,
breast cancer and multiple sclerosis and
participates in a number of educational
activities.
WHITE MAGIC
HENRY DUNAY
“This piece of jewellery is made up of
two parts - a brooch which can be worn
as a clasp and a necklace. I have selected
5 slightly baroque pearls for the brooch
part with a diamond clasp underneath.
Until recently, short strand necklaces
were in fashion so I feel it is up to me
to initiate my customers to the now
fashionable long strand necklace and
to show them how it can be worn
both casually and for more formal
occasions.”
WHITE MAGIC
ELLAGEM
E
ELLAGEM
580 Fifth Avenue, Suite 3110,
New York NY 10036
U.S.A.
Tel: + 212 398 0101
Fax: + 212 302 0153
www.ellagafter.com
lla Gafter is a creative artist with a
passion for extremes – extremes
of beauty, of intrinsic value and of
brilliant craftsmanship. Together with her
daughter, Talila Gafter, she is the driving
force behind the jewellery company
Ellagem.
Ella Gafter was born in Poland, during
the Second World War. Her childhood
experience of that dark time formed in
her a deeply spiritual hunger for beauty,
and a passion to create it.
She came to Rome a young woman
and found the medium for her calling
in the “eternal city”. Members of the
Italian nobility were quickly drawn to her
aesthetic sense and her vital personality.
Soon they were collecting her pieces
and adopting her into their circle. Before
long, she had an international clientele
that continues to expand as her jewellery
gains its well-deserved reputation for
quality and uniqueness.
One only has to visit the Manhattan
offices of Ellagem, beautifully furnished
with Italian antiques and Persian rugs to
know that Ella Gafter understands and
loves all aspects of design and brings
beauty and harmony to her environment.
This is also true of each jewel, which is
the very personal vision of Ella Gafter,
made by hand, of the most magnificent materials, bearing the unique,
irreplaceable stamp of her genius. Ella
travels far and wide in search of the
perfect gems, accepting only the best to
meet her exacting standards.
She designs jewellery in a way
that recalls the work of medieval and
renaissance guild artists, who served
royal courts and merchant princes with
priceless exquisitely wrought objects.
ellery; it can be likened to a classic
sculpture in precious gems and metals.
These pieces are extraordinary for their
3-dimensional qualities and the way in
which they marry materials and colour.
However, the sustained technical effort
always translates into easy loveliness
that is a pleasure to behold. One of the
ways Ella has achieved this effect is by
greatly expanded their international
presence, and maintains her permanent
office in New York, serving a strongly
developed clientele in the Americas.
Together, Ella and Talila have created a
thriving enterprise that produces jewels
unique, irreplaceable, and magnificent.
“The Australian South Sea pearl is a splendid
gemstone to work with because it is voluminous,
and its look is soft, feminine and warm. What
could be more flattering and attractive?”
Based in Italy, and trained for their
craft from childhood, these artisans
share her vision, and have dedicated
their talent and skill exclusively to her
œuvre. Many of them have worked
with her for more than 25 years.
Among them are true masters, who
combine the sculptor’s artistry with the
engineer’s understanding of materials
and techniques.
But her jewellery is more than jew-
reviving the spectacular “Tremblant”
form, ignored by jewellery designers
for decades, because it is so difficult
to execute. In Ella’s hands it has come
back to life. Her jewellery is like no other,
these are highly individual pieces, meant
to be worn in a likewise individual way.
As is perfectly shown when worn by the
creator and her daughter.
Ella’s daughter, Talila, a Harvard
graduate, is also her partner. Talila has
WHITE MAGIC
ELLAGEM
This corsage brooch is comprised of
yellow sapphire, round diamonds,
baguette diamonds and gem Australian
pearls. Leaves are frosted crystal. The
butterfly is set en tremblant in platinum
and 18 carat white gold.
WHITE MAGIC
FAI CO
I
FAI CO
#22 First Street
New Manila
Quezon City,
Philippines
Tel: +63 917 900 9991
Fax: + 63 414 2088
nitially trained as an architect, Fai
Co’s dream had always been to
design beautiful homes, impressive
skyscrapers and grand buildings, rather
than creating jewellery. However, fate
had decided otherwise for the young
Filipino. His father wanted Fai to work
on his pearl farm and trained him in
all the tasks that would allow him to
become experienced in the pearl trade
– ranging from cleaning the equipment
to sorting out the pearls. As a result, Fai
Co’s understanding and love of pearls
grew day by day, and he finally made
the choice of joining the family business,
deciding, however, to concentrate on its
creative aspect.
Combining his background in design
and his knowledge of the pearl industry,
Fai Co began to design his own jewellery,
which is a mix of both the conventional
and the modern. His numerous creations
include soft, gentle, flowing lines as well
as stark geometric forms. The designer
relentlessly seeks inspiration in the
most unusual places and objects. He
considers that jewellery, in the same
way as a painting or a sculpture, is an art
form which mirrors the culture of people
and portrays a certain period of time or
a specific era. In the designer’s opinion,
jewellery must not only be perceived as
an ornament or an accessory but rather
as a work of art in its own right, that may
be handed down from generation to
generation.
Fai Co soon established his own
company, Hoseki Jewellery Art, which
includes his atelier and a showroom.
With the motto: “World-class South Sea
Pearls, World-class designs”, it comes as
no surprise that pearls, and especially the
Competition. In addition, there have
already been seven solo jewellery
exhibitions and jewellery fashion shows
of his work.
Fai Co’s vision and his attachment to
his country make him set on developing
the reputation and standard of Filipino
jewellery. He believes that the creativity
and craftsmanship of the Filipinos set
this bird possesses the power of bringing
good luck and casting away bad spirits.
This belief has made this creature very
popular amongst high ranking people of
the community and it is not uncommon
to see a Sarimanok placed on the roof of
their house or to find the bird on woven
tribal textiles or on various accessories.
“A pearl is a unique work of art; a true gift of
nature and the only precious gem grown from a
living form: the pearl oyster”
South Sea pearl, which is the Philippines
national gem, are a predominant feature
in all his creations. He sees pearls - the
only gems grown from a living form – as
unique works of art and a true gift of
nature.
The jeweller’s striking and most original
creations quickly became recognized
both locally and internationally and he
is already a three-time winner of the
International South Sea Pearl Design
them apart and gives them a unique
opportunity to excel in this art, both at
home and abroad.
As a homage to one of the Philippines
well-loved mythical creatures, Fai Co
chose to create a stunning piece of
jewellery inspired by the Sarimanok.
This mythical bird from the southern
part of the archipelago depicts a stylized
rooster with long colourful feather-tails
and piercing eyes. Folklore relates that
WHITE MAGIC
FAI CO
Fai Co’s Sarimanok – a much-loved
Filipino mythical bird from the southern
part of the archipelago, depicting a
stylized rooster and symbolizing good
luck – has been made out of South Sea
pearls, hand-carved mother-of-pearl and
Kamagong (Ebony) and a local hard
wood.
WHITE MAGIC
JÜRGEN KAMMLER
J
JÜRGEN KAMMLER
Paspaley Pearling Company
19 The Mall
Darwin NT 0800
Australia
Tel: +61 8 89825555
Fax: +61 8 89825502
www.pasleleypearls.com
ürgen Kammler finds himself in a
position in life that many would
envy. He spends his time working
with one of the most beautiful gems;
in an idyllic location in the Northern
Territory of Australia; employed by the
leading pearl company in Australia. But
it is a position this talented designer well
deserves.
Swiss born Jürgen Kammler began
his jewellery apprenticeship in 1974
in the famous German jewellery town
of Schwäbish Gmünd. Not long after
finishing this apprenticeship, he threw
himself into another course at the
Master School and during this course
he decided to submit an entry into the
prestigious De Beers “Diamond Today”
international design competition.
Kammler’s simple elegant concept
was a winning one and he walked
away with first prize, and with it new
opportunities. Winning the competition
opened the door for the chance of an
interview with the famous Renée Kern
store in Düsseldorf, one of the leading
jewellers in Europe. There he was
immediately employed as a Designer/
Master Goldsmith, a position in which
he thrived; being in the creative hub of
Europe’s finest jewellery environment.
However, Kammler was bitten by
the travel bug and set off to visit India,
Kashmir, China, Australia and New
Zealand. He found the experience an
important one not just for his wanderlust
but also as a boost for his creative ideas.
Inspiration from his travels influenced
his ideas for jewellery designs and
developed his talents further.
After returning to Germany, he went
to work for the brand Christian Bauer
for a jewellery workshop manager in an
Australian newspaper, he sent his resume
to Marilynne Paspaley, the Executive
Director of Paspaley’s retail division.
With Kammler’s credentials worthy of
attention he was interviewed in Europe
and the Paspaley family subsequently
invested their faith in Kammler by hiring
him in January 2000.
beauty of the South Sea pearl which
has pride of place in the Paspaley
showrooms.
Today we see the stunning result in
Paspaley’s latest collections designed
by Jürgen Kammler. The Embrace
collection in 2001, where simple clear
lines made the pearl into the hero of
their jewellery
The Unique collection of 2002 is a
“The pearl should be the hero of the overall design.
Start with the pearl and then the design will follow.
The pearl is the inspiration.”
where he spent many years under the
tutelage of the CEO Dr. Frieder KellerBauer; a great thinker and visionary.
It was during this time that Christian
Bauer developed as a company and
moved into the American market as an
established brand. An exciting time for
Kammler and the company.
But travelling had made Kammler
eager to look for other opportunities
and when an Italian friend saw a position
Under the vision of Marilynne Paspaley
to design exquisite hand-made jewellery
for the Paspaley retail showrooms in
Australia, Kammler had the happy task
of working with Marilynne Paspaley to
build a state-of-the art workshop on the
edge of Darwin’s picturesque Cullen Bay,
a perfect place for inspiration.
Here, he and an equally passionate
team, produce unique, inspirational
designs showcasing the incomparable
playful exploration and display of the
unique shapes and colours of South Sea
pearls.
The Bella collection in 2003 was
inspired by the natural beauty and vitality
of youth and showed pearl jewellery in a
stunning new light.
And finally in 2004, Kammler turned
to his growing passion for the sea and
his life by the sea as the inspiration for
the outstanding collection Embrace the
Sea.
WHITE MAGIC
JÜRGEN KAMMLER
“One evening at sunset I found a
corroded lobster claw on the beach
and noticed that it looked just like the
surface of a starfish body.
The curves and dimensions of the
lobster claw were perfect as a base
structure on which to build an all new
starfish.
The result is an 18 karat yellow gold
Starfish clasp with a 15mm round centre
pearl and 404 diamonds pavé set.”
WHITE MAGIC
LILY LAM
W
LILY LAM
Jewellery Zone
31A Wydnham Street, LG/F, Central,
Hong Kong
Tel: + 852 2526 3696
Fax: + 852 2526 632
ith a father who was an oil
painter and an uncle who sold
gemstones, it is not surprising
that Lily Lam has always had a taste for
art and design and that she particularly
enjoys drawing. According to her,
however, she was in fact never interested
in jewellery and had certainly never
planned to become a jewellery designer
– she was more focused on advertising
and commercial art.
After having done a degree in
Advertising at Bianchi College, Lily
Lam found herself, quite unexpectedly,
working in a jewellery shop in Hong
Kong, and it is there that she started
designing. This triggered her change
of focus and passion for jewellery and
she then went on to perfect her skills by
studying for a number of certificates and
degrees in this field, both in Hong Kong
and in the UK.
The designer works with a wide
array of materials but is most attracted
to dazzling diamonds and colourful
precious stones, such as sapphires and
rubies, which she usually sets in 18k
gold. Her stunning pieces – mainly
necklaces, but also bracelets, brooches
and pendants - are usually quite large,
intricate, flamboyant and theatrical and
can be worn as a special added touch to
a casual piece of clothing during the day,
or on elegant evening wear. Lily Lam is
quite fashion and trend conscious. She
does not take jewellery design lightly
and her pieces are often inspired by
the contradictions and imbalances both positive and negative – that one
witnesses in most areas of life. She likes
to work on combining the beauty of
something simple with something more
the Jewellery Design Competition
Award several times over, and the
International South Sea Pearl Jewellery
Design Competition in the Gold, Silver
and Bronze categories.
Lily Lam designed jewellery for several
companies in Hong Kong, Japan and the
USA before opening her own Jewellery
Zone Retail Shop in Hong Kong in the
“This collaboration with SSPC has allowed me to
learn and discover much more about pearls. My goal
has been to take the beautiful, elegant, classical South
Sea cultured pearl and transform it into something
totally different by incorporating it into a very special
design”
extravagant; the classical is highlighted
with the uniqueness of a very special
design or a distinct form. Lily Lam also
believes that values are an important
factor to take into consideration when
designing a piece of jewellery.
It did not take long before Lily Lam
was recognized by the jewellery industry
at large as a talented designer, and in
the last ten years she has received a
number of prestigious awards including
year 2000. Since then, she has been
focusing on developing her designs
under her own name. Her clientele
already includes many foreigners, who
visit her shop whenever they travel to
Hong Kong. Lily Lam also has plans to
expand her business in the future by
selling her jewellery through outlets, or
her own shops, in other Asian countries
as well as in the USA.
WHITE MAGIC
LILY LAM
“This delicate design depicts the
movement of the sea – its festival
of colourful gems highlights the
appearance of sparkling lights on its
surface. For me, the sea is full of wonders
and mysteries from which the precious
pearl miraculously emerges.”
WHITE MAGIC
GISÈLE MOORE
M
GISÈLE MOORE
15 Elvendon Road
London, N13 4SJ
UK
Tel: + 44 (0) 20 8881 7536
ore than just an extremely
creative jewellery designer
Gisèle Moore is fast gaining
a reputation as a talented painter, with
several exhibitions of her work being
shown in London to date. Indeed it was
her love of painting that influenced her
decision to go it alone as a freelance
designer after more than 20 years as
head designer for the London based
contemporary jeweller De Vroomen.
Moore is a graduate of London’s
Central School of Art and Design with an
honours degree in jewellery design. She
believes her talents lie more in design
than in goldsmithing. “Good design
comes in part from the knowledge of
how jewellery is or can be constructed. I
had that grounding with De Vroomen”
Gisèle believes she was fortunate to
work in an environment where design
was so important. “I learned a huge
amount about the potential of precious
metal and how to meld it with stones or
pearls in a manner that enhances both
materials – also ways of evolving ideas
into designs for a wide spectrum of
customers and projects.”
Captivated by the possibilities of
combining precious metals and colour,
her early work displays a strong use
of form and a fascination with enamel.
Her jewellery, always feminine and
curvaceous, disdains fussiness, revelling instead in the use of bold shapes
contrasted with subtle colours. Working
with De Vroomen enabled her to learn
a wide variety of jewellery techniques,
especially the use of the ancient art of
repoussé and also gave almost unlimited
access to the most fabulous gemstones
allowing Moore to develop her designs.
of her first commissions was to design
a pearl collection for Paspaley Pearls.
“In terms of inspiration for individual
designs, it is always difficult to be sure
exactly what lies behind them. In this
collection I have principally used curves
and spirals often set with diamonds to
compliment and show off the pearls. The
use of different textures and a variety of
number of lifestyle options for Gisèle.
It allows the designer more time to
paint: she is presently working on four
commissioned paintings for a private
customer. Her paintings, like her
jewellery, reveal gem-bright colours,
shimmering gold media, precision and
elaborate detail in her work.
She is also designing small works
“This was a wonderful opportunity to design
sophisticated haute couture pieces that combined
the mysterious alluring qualities of these amazing
natural gems with the craft of the jeweller.”
These designs are frequently organic
in form, retaining a bold originality and
displaying an unmistakeable pedigree. It
was Gisèle’s fascination with bold colour
that led her to introduce enamel into the
De Vroomen repertoire, combining it
with fabulous gemstones and diamonds
to contrast with or accentuate the
enamel’s brilliant hues.
After making the decision to become a
freelance designer in January 2003, one
jewellery techniques has resulted in
soft-edged and delicate jewellery, yet
without losing any form.”
Beautiful craftsmanship using sheet
metal construction and wirework
create open, three-dimensional forms.
Fine threads and grain ribbons of
diamond mounting add a precious
delicacy to Moore’s jewellery creating a
contemporary look.
Turning freelance has opened a
and objets d’art for the Middle Eastern
market. Among these are rose bowls,
incense burners and swords, all in
18 carat gold and set with diamonds
and precious stones. Gisèle has also
designed bespoke one –off watches and
more conventional jewellery designs for
various other customers.
The result – stunning jewellery and a
new lifestyle.
WHITE MAGIC
GISÈLE MOORE
This stunning filigree cross suite of
jewellery features eleven Paspaley
button shaped pearls ranging from
11-14mm and set in white gold. The
delicately worked necklace has a filigree
effect and is set with 360 pavé diamonds.
The set also features a matching pair of
earrings.
WHITE MAGIC
NANIS
W
NANIS
Via del Lavoro, 33
Trissino – Vicenza
Italy
Tel: +39 0445 490444
www.nanis.it
ith a goal to strongly position
their brand name in the
international jewellery market,
the husband and wife team of Piero
Marangon and Laura Bicego, created
Nanis in 1990, together with Piero’s
brother, Paolo Marangon, former
architect, hence art director and designer
of Nanis jewellery. Laura Bicego is not
new to this field as she comes from a
well-established family of jewellers, and
Piero Marangon, too, has been working
from a very young age in the family
jewellery company, thereby developing
his extensive know-how both in jewellery
skills, trade and marketing.
The concept of the company is
based on the principles that have long
been used to build the reputation
and success of Italian fashion houses
worldwide. Continual research and
analysis are applied to both the product
and the company’s image through
creativity, innovation, communication
and packaging, and an extensive
international sales network has been
implemented to ensure widespread
distribution. Teamwork has also always
been a key element in the philosophy
of the company – both in-house and
with their external partners. Nanis has
established what they refer to as the
“Nanis Team Organisation” (NTO), which
focuses on bringing people together
and on getting all those involved to
effectively broadcast the same message
and promote a consistent company
image.
Nanis’ elegant logo and distinct
black and white packaging already sets
the tone. Their trendy creations range
from sophisticated, minimal clear-cut
than one way. Nanis takes pride in its
high quality craftsmanship with its careful
selection of the most suitable stones,
its faultless finishings, fine polishing
and handcrafted engravings. As such,
Nanis is a guarantee of unconventional
elegance while belonging entirely to the
great creative “Made in Italy” tradition.
One of Nanis’ most original and
may adhere. Membership gives them a
number of privileges, including constant
updated information on new collections
as well as on the world of jewellery and
art in general. In addition, members have
the opportunity to benefit from special
promotions and may have fun playing,
and hopefully winning, small prizes.
Nanis is present at the main inter-
“Enchanted by the idea of stopping, just for a
while, the pearls’ rolling motion, like in a maze, I
fixed them to a golden fire that prevents them from
escaping. And there they are, trapped in the eye of
a storm or in little pits of a children’s game.”
Paolo Marangon – Nanis Designer
designs to more elaborate pieces which
all combine traditional manual skills
with highly developed technology.
Long necklaces, large sculptured rings
and lightweight earrings are all part of
the mix of their Crumple, Papete and
Slip collections. The jewellery is in 18k
gold, sometimes plain or more often in
combination with diamonds and natural
stones. Certain pieces may be cleverly
transformed so as to be worn in more
popular concepts is its famous Love
Signs - the perfect personal gift for
someone who is close to your heart. This
little gold mirror necklace and its sharp
diamond point stylus were created to
convert all the most precious moments
of your life into unforgettable love
signs.
Another original idea which is
appreciated by avid Nanis clients is
the exclusive Nanis Club to which they
national jewellery shows including Basle,
Tokyo, Las Vegas, Vicenza and New
York and their creations are distributed
in most countries worldwide and may
be found in renowned shops such as
Harrods in London, Takashimaya in
Japan, Saks Fifth Avenue in the USA and
Al-Futtaim in Dubaï.
WHITE MAGIC
NANIS
“Nanis has enhanced the clear, milky
surfaces of the wonderful Australian
pearls by placing them within the warm
irregularly-shaped gold. This jewellery
set presents a design hinting at the
minimal; round cavities looking like
craters whose fire hides precious spirits
peeping through it. Pendant, earrings
and ring repeat the same elemental
design, by setting in a frame the
unrepeatable uniqueness of each pearl,
a precious gift of the sea.”
WHITE MAGIC
ORLANDO ORLANDINI
W
ORLANDO ORLANDINI
Via Empolese, 145
50020 S. Casciano V.P.
Cerbaia, Florence
Italy
Tel : +39 055 826385
Fax : +39 055 826397
www.orlandoorlandini.it
ith a painter as a mother
and a sculptor as a father,
it comes as no real surprise
that Orlando Orlandini became an artist
in his own right at a young age, and
is one of today’s most intriguing and
original European designers of fine gold
jewellery.
His introduction to the world of
jewellery came when, after majoring
in sculpture at Rome’s Academia delle
Belle Arte, he was given the opportunity
to design exclusive one-off pieces for
art galleries. He was then appointed
art director at Uno a Erre in Arezzo and
founded their Atelier d’Arte Orafa in
Florence.
In the spring of 1983, Orlandini began
to work independently, and today works
alongside his wife Carmela and their
two children Paladino and Lidia, as well
as some 30 skilled artisans who have all
been trained in-house. His atelier, as well
as his home, are in a reconverted tower
of an Italian 14th Century convent set
in the Chianti hills of Tuscany. Steeped
in history and in the midst of olive
groves and lush vineyards, the magical
beauty of this environment is a constant
inspiration to the designer.
Orlando Orlandini’s elegant and
unique jewellery can be compared
to no other. Following the principles
performed by ancient techniques from
the old maestri di Toscana, much of
the jeweller’s time is spent on research,
experimentation and the development
of this art.
He constantly creates new techniques
which, combined with his vision and
creativity, give rise to the most stunning
and innovative designs, each of which
into an amazingly soft texture which
drapes the skin like silk. During this
process, thousands of invisible surfaces
are created, subtly allowing the gold to
catch and reflect the light in the same
way as finely cut gems.
Every piece is painstakingly crafted,
entirely by hand, with extraordinary
attention to detail. Each one is exclusive,
number of fashion and television events
in Italy
Orlando Orlandini’s range of gold
jewellery includes bracelets, rings
necklaces and earrings. Although he
mostly creates for women, today there
is also a range for men. His creations can
be found in the most excusive stores in
all major cities.
“Pearls are a natural alchemy that results in a
precious gift from the sea. For us to change cold
and static raw metal into a precious wearable
shape, is just as big a challenge.”
are internationally patented.
Orlandini’s primary inspiration has
always been the female body, which he
sees as the personification of harmony
and beauty. He designs his jewellery to
caress the skin and adapt to the body in
the same way as the fabric of a dress.
Through minute hand-chiseling and a
hammered finish the craftsman tames
the hard, cold, gold ore so it magically
increases in flexibility and transforms
varies slightly, and is part of a limited
edition. The jewellery is individually
numbered, carries a guarantee of
authenticity and is signed by the artist.
Over the years, Orlandini’s collections
have received the highest recognition in
the most renowned international shows
and he has already won seven prestigious
international awards including the De
Beers’ Diamond International Award
three times. He has also participated in a
WHITE MAGIC
ORLANDO ORLANDINI
“We have named this necklace the Star
Necklace as its inspiration comes from
space.
A meticulous weave of threads create
an explosion of light upon which pearls
are set down gently as if they were
planets in a galaxy. ”
WHITE MAGIC
STAURINO FRATELLI
M
STAURINO FRATELLI
Via B. Cellini, 23
15048 Valenza
Italy
Tel. +39 0131 943137
Fax +39 0131 952908
www.staurinofratelli.com
anaged today by Davide and
Stefano Staurino, the third
generation of the Staurino
family, Staurino Fratelli, was established
in the Sixties in the northern Italian city
of Valenza Po.
In this forty-year span, this familyrun company has consistently updated
its designs according to the trends
and preferences of each decade. The
Seventies were marked by stylised
creations in yellow gold; the Eighties
saw more daring, bolder designs, which
led to the company’s expansion abroad;
and in the Nineties the focus was on
elegant, clean-cut lines and shapes. In
this new century, Davide and Stefano
Staurino’s challenge is to continue to
innovate, attract and surprise with their
exclusive and original women’s jewellery,
as well as a limited collection of mainly
cufflinks for men.
Staurino Fratelli has always been
characterized by its combination of
traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design and technology so
as to create elegant, timeless, stateof-the-art pieces of jewellery, including
necklaces, earrings and rings, using the
purest of gems and paying the utmost
attention to detail. Handcrafted white
and yellow gold and precious gems
such as rubies, emeralds, topaz and
multi-coloured sapphires and diamonds
are subtly transformed into a spectacular
festival of colours, forms and light.
The collections are as unexpected as
are some of their names, and there is
something for everyone and for every
occasion – from the “Prêt à Porter” casual
jewellery for daily wear to dazzling,
sophisticated “Haute joaillerie” tailor-
irregularity and opulence for the woman
who wants it all.
The geometric Tartan collection is
yet another example of the originality
of the jewellery on offer. This attractive
replica of the timeless, traditional fabric
of the same name was designed with
the decisive and romantic woman in
mind. Diamonds, rubies, emeralds and
took on a new exciting challenge:
to develop a unisex wristwatch – the
Staurino Timepieces – in keeping with
the company’s high standards, style
and philosophy. The sophisticated Swiss
Made annual collections they have
since come up with are recognized as
technological feats and are sought after
by fashionable men and women alike.
“Working with South Sea pearls was an amazing
experience. It was the first time that Staurino
included pearls in their high-end jewellery – and
the synergy was perfect . . . thank you for this
wonderful opportunity!”
made pieces for the most glamorous of
events.
The Nature collection, inspired by one
of the Staurino family’s favourite themes,
includes delicate hairpins-cum-brooches
in the shapes of exquisite diamond
pavé butterflies and dragonflies, which
incorporate a mechanism enabling their
wings to move. By contrast, the more
chunky Oversize collection speaks for
itself, as it personifies exaggeration,
sapphires are woven onto white gold
giving the impression of strands of
coloured wool.
As for the pure, linear Spaghetti
collection, its wide range of creations is
based on minimalist forms and designs
and is a blend of sophistication and
originality.
Although the family’s main line of
work has always been jewellery, in
2001, Davide and Stefano Staurino
Staurino Fratelli’s fashion conscious
outlook has led the company to
participate in a number of shows. In
2004, in Rome, their jewellery was worn
on the catwalks of the haute couture
fashion shows by Italian designer
Raffaella Curiel.
Staurino Fratelli has sales outlets in a
number of Italian cities, the USA, Mexico,
South Africa and several European, Asian
and Middle Eastern countries.
WHITE MAGIC
STAURINO FRATELLI
“In this neo-romantically inspired set of
jewellery, the pearl is conceived as a
precious heart delicately wound around
light ribbons made of brilliant diamonds
The small dangling pearls give true life to
the jewellery which moves continuously
with a sparkling and stunning effect.”
WHITE MAGIC
TIFFANY & CO.
I
TIFFANY & CO.
Fifth Avenue at 57th Street
New York, New York 10022
U.S.A.
Tel: +212 755 8000
www.tiffany.com
n 1837, in a time when New York City
saw dynamic growth, extravagant
taste and golden opportunities,
twenty-five-year-old
Charles
Lewis
Tiffany and John B. Young opened a
“stationery and fancy goods” store with
a $1,000 advance from Tiffany’s father.
On their way to the new emporium at
259 Broadway, fashionable ladies in silks,
satins and beribboned bonnets faced a
gauntlet of narrow streets teeming with
horses and carriages and the hurlyburly of city life. At Tiffany & Co. they
discovered a newly emerging “American
style” that departed from the European
design aesthetic rooted in religious and
ceremonial patterns.
The young entrepreneurs were
inspired by the natural world, which
they interpreted in exquisite patterns
of simplicity, harmony and clarity. These
became the hallmarks of Tiffany design,
first in silver hollowware and flatware,
and later in jewellery. This singular
style quickly established Tiffany & Co.
as the arbiter of taste, elegance and
sophistication, which it still is today.
The Tiffany & Co. silver studio, where
apprentices were encouraged to observe
and sketch nature, was the first American
school of design.
Tiffany first achieved international
recognition at the Paris Exposition Uni-
verselle in 1867, when, for the first time,
an American design house was awarded
the grand prize for silver craftsmanship.
By 1870 Tiffany & Co. had become
America’s premier purveyor of jewels
and timepieces as well as luxury table,
personal, and household accessories,
with customers including prominent
figures such as President Lincoln. At the
Tiffany designs captured the spirit of
the times from the extravagance of the
1920s to the modernism of the 1930s
and the aerodynamic age of the 1940s
and 1950s. Tiffany china set the stage for
White House dinners and Tiffany jewels
accented the elegant clothes of the
world’s most glamorous women.
From its founding, Tiffany & Co. has
By the end of the nineteenth century,
Tiffany was selling a wealth of waistlength pearl strands to the fashionable
women of America.
Hand-selected by the company’s
gemmological experts and precisely
matched for size and colour. Tiffany’s
pearls are recognized for their beautiful
shapes, exquisite lustre and superior
“Pure, sensual, lustrous, precious – the South Sea
pearl has it all. It is the most feminine of jewels
and nothing could be more flattering to a woman’s
beauty and sensuality.”
turn of the century the company had
more than one thousand employees and
branches in London, Paris, and Geneva.
In 1882 President Chester Arthur
invited Louis Comfort Tiffany, the
son of the founder, to redecorate the
White House and by 1900 the younger
Tiffany was a recognized world leader
in the Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts
movements. In 1902 he became Tiffany’s
first director of design.
been renowned as a purveyor of the
finest pearls, and has incorporated
these stones in its fine jewellery. Pearls
also played an important role in the
unprecedented
recognition
Tiffany
received at the great world fairs during
the late nineteenth and early twentieth
centuries.
For much of Tiffany’s history, pearl
necklaces were the most expensive
jewels in the company’s collections.
nacre thickness. Today the company
incorporates several kinds of pearls in its
jewellery designs, including South Seas
pearls.
Over the past two centuries, Tiffany
has built an international reputation
as the ultimate source for special gifts,
wrapped in the signature Tiffany Blue
Box® which symbolizes the rich heritage
that Tiffany & Co. has enjoyed as one of
America’s great institutions.
WHITE MAGIC
TIFFANY & CO.
A strand of exceptionally high quality
pearls
beautifully
enhanced
with diamonds and sapphires in a
quintessentially Tiffany design.
Hand crafted in Tiffany’s jewellery
shop in its Fifth avenue flagship store,
the enhancer detaches from the pearl
strand. Sapphires set “en tremblant”
and framed by diamonds make up this
two piece hand crafted enhancer, a
beautiful way to allow the wearer the
unique aspect of multiple options to
wear this jewellery, as a strand alone and
with one or both of the sapphire drops.
WHITE MAGIC
CHRISTIAN TSE
C
CHRISTIAN TSE
55, Waverly Drive, Studio 108
Pasadena, California 91105
U.S.A.
Tel: + 1 626 577 9288
Fax: + 1 626 577 9287
www.christiantse.com
hristian Tse began making
jewellery as a young boy
alongside his father. As the third
generation of a family of jewellers, it is in
his blood. At the early age of twelve he
began to learn the fine art of moulding
precious metals and by the age of
twenty-five, he was already crafting
some of the most innovative pieces
of jewellery, using 18k gold as well as
platinum, a medium with which he has
since been linked.
Whilst taking the valuable lessons
from the traditions and values that have
been handed down to him, Christian
Tse’s approach has been to infuse a
new philosophy and interpretation to an
age-old craft, and his goal is to present
the world with the finest jewels and
most innovative designs a woman could
dream of.
Despite his heritage, he has
succeeded in creating his own signature
style and, since 1996, has his own
company in Pasadena, California.
His attitude is fresh with no set
structure to pigeon hole his designs.
In the hands of Christian Tse, metal is
worked and reworked until it is magically
transformed into statements of dramatic
expression, classic, sensuous beauty and
understated elegance.
He weaves pieces that are as intricate
and delicate as the silken thread
of a spider’s web, completed with
gemstones, such as diamonds, lemon
citrines and blue topazes, and, in this
case, one wondrous pearl. His search for
perfection is clearly visible in the refined
details and expert craftsmanship found
in each piece he creates.
The designer’s inspiration comes from
light, wonderfully tactile and gives the
impression of being almost fluid as it
comfortably drapes over the wearer.
His pieces appear so fragile but are in
fact quite solid, as a result of meticulous,
painstaking soldering of the thousands
of points that make up any one piece.
Despite the complex engineering
behind each of his designs, Tse says
Before it is produced every creation must
first pass her “wearability” test. Victoria
Tse also takes care of the company’s PR
and sales as well as bringing up their
young family.
Christian Tse designs have been
featured in several magazines including
Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle and Town
& Country and he was the winner of the
“South Sea pearls possess a magical and hypnotic
beauty that captures the creative imagination and
artistic eye of every designer.”
architectural forms that he sees as the
foundation of his work. But he also finds
inspiration from many sources, some
in simple images such as water drops
falling from rain-soaked lashes, chiffon
ruffles caressing the nape of a woman’s
neck or the simple image of ripples on
the surface of a gently flowing stream.
The movement in his designs are
indicative of these sources of inspiration.
His fabric-resembling jewellery is
the lines of his work will always remain
simple. As he puts it “when you can
cut down the superfluous, the design
becomes a classic”.
His creations are sophisticated yet
never ostentatious and most pieces look
as good with jeans and a simple top as
with a ball gown.
Christian Tse works very closely with
his wife, Victoria, whose opinion on his
creations is of utmost importance to him.
2000 Couture Award for Best Design in
Platinum.
His jewellery is popular with celebrities
and has been worn in Hollywood TV
series such as The Sopranos and Sex
in the City, as well as by Oscar-winning
actresses.
He has recently been chosen as one
of a select group of designers asked to
produce a collection for the new Iridesse
pearl stores.
WHITE MAGIC
CHRISTIAN TSE
A stunning brooch that can also be
worn on a velvet choker as a necklace
epitomizes Christian Tse’s talent for
working metals into fluid shapes. Made
from 18 carat pink gold with platinum
trimmings to form a flower. At the centre
a stunning Paspaley South Sea cultured
pearl.
WHITE MAGIC
CASA VHERNIER
F
CARLO TRAGLIO and ANDRÉ PIOT
Casa Vhernier
Via Cunietti 10, 15048 Valenza
Italy
Tel: +39 0131095 55 26
Fax : +39 0131 94 19 59
www.vhernier.it
rom the very beginning, Vhernier
has embraced a very special
philosophy,
distinguishing and
separating objects of worth from the
superfluous and true value from useless
waste, in pursuit of sublime simplicity.
Vhernier
has
personality:
its
jewellery reveals pure form, elegant
volumes, striking, unusual proportions
and harmonious combinations that
accentuate the true essence of the
materials.
Established in Valenza in 1984,
Vhernier is the expression of an infinite
desire to devote one’s experience
and career to the beauty of gold and
precious stones.
Gold,
platinum,
precious
and
semi-precious stones are the point
of departure that nature offers,
the materials that human creativity
transforms into jewellery.
Contemporary style and beauty
are at the basis of the design. Superb
craftsmanship and great expertise in
materials are behind the creation of an
original idea that, first and foremost, is
concerned with the volumes in relation
to their ideal space: the hand and its
gestures, the ear and the space around
it, a woman ’s features …
Next comes the stone: its unusual
colours, an accentuation of its cha-
racteristics,
always
specially
cut
according to the designed shape. Then
there is the gold and exclusive artisan
craftsmanship that focuses on even the
smallest detail at every stage.
Vhernier jewellery is breathtaking, the
result of a long, painstaking process in
which a ring can hold up to nine hundred
diamonds that takes a skilled artisan
Near the end of 2001, Vhernier ’s new
President Carlo Traglio, an entrepreneur
and discerning collector of modern and
contemporary art, and André Piot, the
company ’s new Managing Director, with
two decades of experience working for
the Ermenegildo Zegna and Loro Piana
groups, decided to further develop the
company from a financial and structural
off the beaten track but in the luxurious
fashion district. This was followed by the
inauguration of a Vhernier boutique in
March 2003 at via Camerelle in worldfamous Capri. A freestanding store was
opened in Namiki Dori,in the heart of the
Ginza district of Tokyo, in May 2004, and
other shops will follow in the Far East.
Vhernier jewellery is also sold in fine
“The joy of working with South Sea pearls is
the luxury and beauty of these pearls. The lustre
combined with Vhernier’s use of colour makes for
a unique and breathtaking necklace.”
nearly two months to set.
More than a year may pass from the
concept to the initial sketches on a piece
of paper and then to the design and
production. This process, the creative
strength of an idea and contemporary
design, the archaic allure of the materials
and a continuous search for the highest
quality during production phases are
what make Vhernier jewellery absolutely
unique.
standpoint to instill new vitality and
delineate innovative strategies.
The same passion and research
devoted to the product are also behind
the design and inauguration of the first
Vhernier shop, with the conviction that
this rare and unique world should be
appreciated in its entirety.
The first Vhernier boutique made its
debut in September 2002 in Milan at
Via Santo Spirito,14, an address that is
department stores such as Bergdorf
Goodman in New York, and it has its
own corner shops in Geneva, Barcelona
and other European capitals.
The company ’s new projects will
focus on reinforcing its presence on
the market only through a few select
jewelers around the globe.
WHITE MAGIC
CASA VHERNIER
A rock crystal and diamond white
gold snake with a diamond underbelly
intertwines itself with a stunning white
South Sea cultured pearl strand. Worn
complete as a necklace or separately
as a brooch. This set is completed by
matching pearl and crystal earrings.
WHITE MAGIC
STEPHEN WEBSTER
O
STEPHEN WEBSTER LTD.
75 Gloucester Place
London W1U 5JP
UK
Tel: + 44 7486 6575
Fax: + 44 7486 6439
www.stephenwebster.com
ften referred to as the “jeweller
of the stars” – with clients
including glittering celebrities
such as Madonna, Jennifer Lopez and
Elton John – Stephen Webster is today
considered to be one of the leading
British jewellery designers of our times.
Now a Freemason of the City of
London, this designer has come a long
way since, at the age of 16, he began
a jewellery and silversmith course in art
school.
Stephen Webster initially trained
under Tony Shepherd, former prime
warden of the Worshipful Company of
Goldsmiths, and then went on to work
for several established design houses as
a craftsman. During this time he had the
opportunity of working on a number of
prestigious projects including setting the
De Beers Diamond Stakes Trophy.
After working in Canada and then in
California, where he began to develop
his bold style using unusual and exotic
gems, he returned to the UK. In 1988
he set up his own company, Stephen
Webster Ltd, in London’s West End. The
American market quickly clamoured for
Stephen Webster’s stunning designs,
whereas it took a little longer for his
creations to be accepted at home.
His approach to jewellery and his
formula for success are unique. They
are the result of continual creative
innovation and a somewhat outrageous
twist, combined with the traditional
craftsmanship in which he has such
extensive experience. Stephen Webster
is no follower of trends but rather creates
his own and has a following worldwide
who avidly seek his most recent
creations.
the delicate Eden wedding line, to
more surprising collections with gothic
influences such as Sex, Drugs & Rock
and Roll and Heartbreaker where we
find carved skulls as well as silver dagger
killer cufflinks.
But it is not only his jewellery which
is flamboyant, when Stephen Webster
opens a new store or launches a new
necklace set with diamonds and antique
jade for Sotheby’s.
Stephen Webster’s talent has also
been recognized and awarded by
his peers. He has received a number
of awards including the UK Luxury
Jewellery of the Year award for three
consecutive years, Designer of the Year
and the Diamond Jewellery Brand of
“Inspired by Art Nouveau-style organic vines and
thorns, the contrasts of a wild rose with its soft
delicate petals and sharp protective thorns seem to
me the perfect setting for beautiful feminine South
Sea pearls.”
The designer ingeniously combines
a wide variety of precious and semiprecious gemstones including emeralds,
sapphires, diamonds of all colours, and
more unique falcon’s eye, mandarine
garnet, chrysoprase and cornelian. His
jewellery is divided into contrasting
collections – from the recent stunning
Wild Rose Couture collection which
takes its inspiration from the natural
beauty of the uncultured flower, and
collection, it is always a dazzling, lavish
affair attended by many celebrities and
reported in most social columns.
In addition to his own collections,
the designer is also commissioned
to create exclusive pieces for private
clients or companies. Dom Perignon
commissioned him to design a limited
edition Fine Jewellery collection
to launch their 1993 Rose Vintage
Champagne, and in 2004 he created a
the Year. Exhibitions of his work have
been held worldwide and his creations
have been on the covers of trend-setting
fashion publications such as Tatler,
Vogue and Elle.
Today
Stephen
Webster
has
independent boutiques in Seoul and
Moscow and over 50 concessions in the
USA and Japan. Additional stores are
planned to open in Hong Kong, China
and Japan shortly.
WHITE MAGIC
STEPHEN WEBSTER
“I chose the bracelet design for the
SSPC for several reasons, first I wanted
this piece to be a comfortable fit with
the current direction of my work. The
inspiration comes from the organic vines
and thorns, favoured by the artists of
the art nouveau period. I thought the
contrasts of a wild rose with its soft
delicate petals and sharp protective
thorns would be the perfect setting for
beautiful feminine South Sea pearls.
I believe the piece makes a big
statement and hopefully will make
people look at South Sea pearls
differently.”
WHITE MAGIC
DAVID YURMAN
D
DAVID YURMAN
24 Vestry Street
New York NY 10013
USA
Tel: +646 264 7346
Fax: +212 593 3290
www.davidyurman.com
avid Yurman is a phenomenon
in the world of fine jewellery
and timepieces. Established by
David and Sybil Yurman in 1979, David
Yurman is today recognized as America’s
leading fine jewellery and luxury watch
brand.
Artistic inspiration is at the very core
of the company’s foundation. David
and Sybil Yurman were both respected
artists prior to pursuing jewellery design;
David as a sculptor, Sybil a painter.
Their creative disciplines, combined
with Sybil’s inherent gift for marketing,
enabled them to fuse art, fashion and fine
jewellery into a signature design concept
that was nothing short of revolutionary
within the jewellery industry. Intuitively
capturing the relaxed elegance of
modern American women through their
designs, their unprecedented success in
terms of both sales volume and image
now ranks David Yurman among the
most respected global luxury fashion
brands in the world today.
The story of this phenomenal business
is a very personal one. Still married
more than thirty-five years after they
first met, David Yurman’s initial foray
into creating jewellery was making gifts
for his then-girlfriend, Sybil. When Sybil
wore one of his pieces to an art opening,
the gallery owner immediately fell in
love with it and asked if it was for sale.
David remembers, “I couldn’t imagine
recreating something so personal I had
made for Sybil, so answered ‘no’ – but
at the very same moment Sybil said ‘yes’
– and, like that, we found ourselves in
the jewellery business!”
In 1983, with his sculptor’s eye for
form and her painter’s passion for
collections, such as the phenomenally
successful SilverIce. More recently, they
have focused their attention on fine
South Sea pearls, once again breaking
with traditional jewellery convention
by combining them with sterling silver
as well as gold. The Yurmans also
expanded their brand into the fine
timepiece industry introducing the
to a variety of charitable organizations.
“We love what we do; it is our passion
and our romance”, says Sybil. “We are
fortunate to have been able to capitalize
on our artistic abilities to build this
business together, and it’s important for
us to use this success to aid the causes
of others.”
These two native New Yorkers con-
“Each South Sea pearl is a work of art and that
inspires me . . . Pearls offer me an extraordinary
design playground. No gem is more individual than
the pearl; an endless array of hue, size and shape.”
colour, the designer and his muse
together created the signature cable
bracelet – a twisted helix in sterling
silver and gold with brilliant gemstones
on its finial ends. That instantly iconic
bracelet became the cornerstone of
The Cable Collection, introduced the
following year. Committing to fulfilling
their creative vision without boundaries
or compromise, David and Sybil Yurman
have since developed other signature
Cable Watch Collection® in 1994.
Both Sybil and David have always
had a commitment to “giving back”
and in
2001 they established The
David and Sybil Yurman Humanitarian
and Arts Foundation. The David
Yurman Thoroughbred and Angel
Awards, recognize individuals who give
the gift of their time as well as fund
charitable organizations. The couple
also dedicated sales of their angel pins
tinue to conduct both life and business
from their hometown. Their son, Evan,
shares their artistic talents and is part
of the creative team. David Yurman
collections are now available in over 450
authorized retail locations worldwide
with their own boutiques in New York
and California, with more to follow. What
began with an artist’s love-token to his
muse has ignited into America’s premiere
jewellery and timepiece brand.
WHITE MAGIC
DAVID YURMAN
From the David Yurman South Sea Pearl
Collection, a one-of-a-kind Cable CageTM
bracelet adorned with white and golden
South Sea pearls and pavé diamonds in
18 carat gold.
The Australian South Sea pearls
measure 10.5 - 14 mm. and are near
round in shape with an exceptional
lustre.
CREDITS
The South Sea Pearl Consortium would like to thank the following people without
whom this exhibition would not be possible:
Paspaley Pearling Company for the wondrous pearls
Kaoru Kay Akihara
Lorenz Bäumer
Coleman Douglas
Henry Dunay
Ellagem
Fai Co
Jürgen Kammler
Lily Lam
Gisèle Moore
Nanis
Orlando Orlandini
Staurino Fratelli
Tiffany & Co.
Christian Tse
Casa Vhernier
Stephen Webster
David Yurman
for all their inspirational designs.
Thank you to all,
Suzi Jarrell, Communications Director, South Sea Pearl Consortium
Douglas Dubler for his beautiful photography
+1 212 452 2525 | www.douglasdubler3.com
All the studio team who worked so hard on the photo shoot
Make up: Sylvia Pichler who designed all the makeup and interpreted the aboriginal
body paint design for Makeuprules.com
+1 212 864 5962
Hair design by Noah Hatton for Redken/Cutler @ Kramer and Kramer NYC
+1 212 645 8787
Stylist: Ise White for her aboriginal accessories @ Code Management
+1 212 686 9000
Aboriginal artifacts: Alan Steele, NYC
+1 212 966 3735
Fashions were created especially for this exhibition by Gaelyn and Cianfarani
+1 212 614 6998 | www.gaelyn.com
René V. Steiner for the catalog and invitation design
Steiner Graphics | www.steinergraphics.com
Vivian Hakkak for her contribution to the writing and editing of the catalog
vh@span.ch
BTL Printers Geneva
www.btl.com
Exhibition prints: Vincent Versace
+1 323 664 2671
Thanks to Panasonic for their High-Definition Plasma technology, enabling a new
perspective and insight for this exciting exhibition.