The Forest Boulders - Blue Ridge Bouldering
Transcription
The Forest Boulders - Blue Ridge Bouldering
The Forest Boulders The Roadside Boulders/ Mushroom Boulder The Forest Boulder area lies just off the Blue Ridge Parkway, south of Love Gap. The rock is greenstone and the boulders present a wonderful combinaCon of slopers, slabs, crimps and roofs. Many of the boulders are on the property of the Tidewater Appalachian Trail group. While they have given us permission to climb in this area, treat it with the utmost respect. No fires, camping or leashless dogs and always scan the area and pack out any trash. Keep a low profile with small groups and stay on trails or boulder hop where possible. Also scrub chalk from easily seen boulders like Alien Face. This guide was prepared by Barry and Brendan Condron along with a large community of local climbers. Directions: Forest Blue Ridge Parkway White Rock Falls mp 18.2 Great Circle of Boulders Roadside boulders Crossroads Bruce Lee Gumby Buddha Boulders Firehouse Tetris Trifecta Spike Mushroom Fungal Jungle Ridgeline Roadside Boulders To reach the Firehouse and Mushroom Boulder, from Roadsides, take a 190° (SSW) bearing. BRP 1 2 3 4 5 6 ? 1. The Bee’s Knees V5 SDS on low jug under roof. Climb out roof on good crimps and traverse lip to top out at jugs. 2. Cat’s Pajamas V1 Start on small holds on middle of face and climb straight up to mantle over top. 3. Mr. Right V1 SDS under overhand and climb straight up on large jugs from sit. 4. The Middle Brother V3 SDS on obvious ledge in middle of face. Climb up to lip and move up and left to end on prow at left side of boulder. 5. Take what you get V2 Start at left side of boulder and move straight up to same top out on prow same as The Middle Brother. 6. Lock and Pop V5 Sit start on low crimp, move up and right to good hold and then move to top out on slopers up and right. 7. ? There are a few problems on the vertical face just up from Lock and Pop. Firehouse 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Flamer V6 Start on crimp rail low on face. Climb straight up on crimps and slopers to top out straight up. Warm-up V2 SDS on low jugs and climb straight up on edges to top out straight up. Fire Truck V5 SDS low on crimps and climb straight up on powerful moves with crimps. Choss V1 SDS on flakey holds and climb straight up using loose thin flakes. Fire Escape V2 Climb straight up the tall slab from a stand start. Top out straight up. Arson V2 Climb straight up slab from stand start using pockets and edges and top out straight up. Low Sit Arete V4 SDS low and left on good holds and climb up the arete to top out straight up. 1 7 6 5 4 3 2 Mushroom 1. V0 Climb straight up the face on good holds to top out straight up. 2. V2 SDS to climb straight up and top out over bulge on tricky topout. 3. V4 SDS low to top out straight up on slab with slopers. 4. Holy Shitake V4 SDS on left side of large ramp, moving right to top of ramp and gain jug out left in middle of face. Top out right or left. 5. Humungous Fungus V6 SDS on right side of ramp. Climb left on slopers and crimps to top of ramp. Finish same as Holy Shitake. 6. Pinch an Inch V6 SDS low and left on good block. Climb straight up on jugs and crimps to levitation topout on slopers. 7. Mycotic Break V9 *** SDS low in overhang and climb straight up into vertical headwall. Be careful not to dab on tree for last few moves. 7 1 6 2 3 4 5 4 1 5 2 6 7 3