cig`art 27

GASTRONOMY
Philippe Durandeau
Comes out of his reserve
like a glove as here he can exercise all his
considerable culinary talents assisted by a
kitchen team that are entirely devoted to him.
Philippe Durandeau
Great defender of the blue lobster, the French
chef at Le Loti is passionate about seasonal
produce.
Philippe Durandeau officiates in a kind of
“reserve”, at the heart of this Genevan-style
lodge set in a splendid park that runs down
to the lake, bordered by a terracotta building
with suites and rooms decorated in tones of
leather and chocolate. This truly unique hotel,
known for its exceptional service, fits him
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Chef to a primed kitchen brigade, this fiery 44year old is both determined and creative, he
wants to impose a marine feel in the tented
restaurant that gives you the impression you
are in the African savannah. Fish from the
Atlantic coast, from Brittany or Vendée like the
saint-pierre from Guilvinec, sea bass from the
Ile d’Yeu, cod from the port of Hanstholm or
monkfish from Roscoff. Grilled, in salt crust
or roasted, they are all prepared in the luxurious kitchens with lights of blue, made to
measure by the “Chaudronnerie de l’Isère”.
Not far away is the chef’s pride and joy, a fish
tank that each week sees around 60 blue lobsters. Philippe Durandeau likes to serve them
with risotto, camaroli and aged parmesan, very
popular with the loyal clientele who come day
and night to choose from creamy pumpkin
soup and goats-cheese ravioli or saint-jacques
from Erquy roasted with endives and citrus.
Patrick Roure is also very creative and plays
with hints of chocolate or candy floss.
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Lorraine has held the reins of the kitchens in
La Réserve for ten years. Before that he roved
around three of the best restaurants including
the Parc des Eaux-Vives where he was chef,
the Grand Hôtel de Divonne where he was
sous-chef to Jean-Marc Delacourt and the Fer
de Cheval in Megève where he was chef de
cuisine, a journey that ended at the Réserve
where he never ceases to surprise.
“Curious, natural, sociable, attentive”, these
are the words used for this busy man by his
entourage, always ready to jump into the
breach and not hesitating to leap into his car
and set off for Milan to find the best possible
market vegetables. Driving 300km to find the
best pepper in Italy, that is what we call a quest
for excellence!
One of the top French chefs in Switzerland,
Philippe Durandeau surrounded by his second
of five years Alexandre Deluca, and his souschefs Laurent Worsniak (formerly at the BeauRivage in Lausanne) and Emmanuel Horclois,
offers a cuisine that is healthy, low in fat and
making use of the best produce- fish, seafood,
vegetables and herbs bought from the best
suppliers. Trained in two cooking schools, one
in Poitiers the other in Thonon, this native of
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The Réserve is home to treasures that you have
to see at first hand to understand; in the gardens you can almost hear the lions roaring and
expect to see elephants crossing the soft grass
going down to the lake. The vast entrance is
covered in animal prints, the suites decorated
in tones of chocolate and leather open onto
large terraces level overlooking the park and
swimming pool, the bar has a colonial feel with
its huge club armchairs and an immense “La
Prairie” spa boasts a large pool. Of course as
well as the “Loti” restaurant there is also that
pearl of the orient the Tsé Fung, also supervised by Philippe Durandeau.
Gilles Brochard
La Réserve- Le Loti Restaurant
301, Route de Lausanne-1293 Bellevue, Geneva
Tel : +41 22 959 59 59
www.lareserve.ch
GASTRONOMY
Restaurant Obeirut
Authenticity, tradition and flavour
Carlos Mirza spontaneously declares “the
project was something I wanted to do for a
long time. My mother opened the first Lebanese
restaurant in Paris in 1974, the Yildizar. I grew
up with a love for the cuisine and hospitality
of the Lebanon with its festive spirit”.
Nathalie & Carlos Mirza
At the heart of Lausanne, the Obeirut
Restaurant opened its doors last November
offering an authentic Lebanese cuisine to a
discerning clientele. The atmosphere is elegant
and contemporary, the dishes simply succulent and made in the purest tradition.
Conceived and managed by Carlos Mirza and
his wife, the team is enhanced by Lebanese
chefs known for their delicate cuisine and having served at some of Paris’ finest restaurants.
The flavours of the East invite gourmets to
join in a journey back in time. The decor was
created by interior designer Michel Genillod
in collaboration with Nathalie Mirza. A delicatessen as well as a 130m2 terrace completes
the exclusive package at the Obeirut.
The variety of dishes is enhanced by the huge
range of spices and honeys that are imported
directly from Lebanon, the land of the sun.
Grilled meats lahmé méchouié style, hummus
(chick pea puree) moutabbal (aubergine
puree), real typical tabbouleh, Warak enab
(stuffed vine leaves), sambousek bel jebneh
(cheese rissoles), chawarma bel lahmé (marinated meat roasted on sticks), kibbeh nayé
(raw lamb served tartare style) and finally the
irresistibly sticky desserts.
Chantal-Anne Jacot
Bellefontaine 2-1003 Lausanne
Tel:+41 (0) 21 349 10 10
www.obeirut.com
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GASTRONOMY
Serge Labrosse
At the Buffet at the Gare des Eaux-Vives
come together in true camaraderie around a
table or on a trip through “Goutatoo” their
epicurean association.
Serge Labrosse
One Michelin star and a 16 awarded by the
GaultMillau Guide; this lover of quality
produce is introducing his customers to good
food and good humour.
Serge Labrosse is one happy chef in Geneva;
he is part of the inner sanctum of French chefs
who have set up shop in Switzerland. They
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At the Buffet at the Gare des Eaux-Vives for
ten years now, Serge Labrosse is one of the
guardians of the temple of sensorial, sensual,
sophisticated cuisine, constantly on the lookout for new discoveries, details and flavours.
Like Philippe Audonnet, Philippe Durandeau
and Dominique Gauthier he works with quality produce, fights to defend a certain idea of
taste and is rigorous in his cooking, the combination and harmony between fish, meats,
vegetables and herbs. He is not a man to compromise; his trump card is to surround himself
with young cooks ready to follow him in his
daring experiments. He is never alone in the
kitchen and Yoann, his second is a loyal lieutenant. This Normandy native is very familiar
with Serge’s motto which he often recites; “It
has to work so you need to add a crunch, softness, sweetness and strength”; a recipe that
gives food for thought. The presentation of the
entrées and dishes on slate, glass and porcelain
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sums up the leitmotiv of elegance that pervades
both the food and the service; an elegance that
encourages simplicity. Nothing is superfluous;
when he prepares his “Venison and foie gras
cooked in the style of a boars head” he gives
it a touch of sweetness with a blueberry jelly
and an apple and grape chutney. His breast of
Bigorre pork is slowly cooked for 36 hours
making it so tender it literally melts in the
mouth. As for seafood, Serge Labrosse’s specialities include wild zander, braised cod,
roasted line-caught bass and noix de saintJacques from Erquy with a smooth pomade of
avocado and green lemon.
People come to his buffet-tavern for his “return
from the hunt” menu including his white Alba
truffle, organic slow-cooked eggs, marrow
bread and the three chocolate dessert made by
pâtissière Sabine de Rossa as well of course for
the wine cellar that stocks more than 300 predominantly Swiss wines, laid out in the underground cellar where they are tended by
Sébastien Humbert (who has served his time
at the Père Bise in Talloires, at Veyrat and the
Bocuse in Lyon). When the fine weather arrives
nothing could be pleasanter that sitting out on
the “rail side” terrace in the shade of the olive
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trees and bamboo or on the south terrace,
served by Frédéric Levacher and his team; it’s
so sunny that you could almost imagine yourself to be in Saint Bart’s!
Gilles Brochard
Buffet de la Gare des Eaux-Vives
Avenue de la Gare des Eaux-Vives
1207 Geneva
Tel: +41 (0) 22 840 44 30
www.lebuffetdelagare.ch
www.goutatoo.skyrock.com
GASTRONOMY
Curiositas
A restaurant to discover
Jean-François Schlemmer
At the heart of the famous Bains district
Jean-François Schlemmer presents his newborn.
This 450m2 establishment managed by Stéphane
Hisbergues, is nestled between the Museums
of Ethnography, Photography and the Centre
of Contemporary Art, it is no wonder then that
the decor leans towards discovery and travel
like the old curiosity shop.
The turquoise walls highlight display cases
filled with the most bizarre and unusual
objects as well as ravishingly exotic collections
of butterflies, shells and buttons from times
gone by. Once you have got over your initial
surprise you quickly fall under the spell of this
charming place. This former industrial space
is divided between the main bar, the restaurant and lounge corner, the cement floor and
the lamps are original but have been reworked
to develop a warm and comfortable ambience.
It is in this original setting that Chef Frédéric
Barré, formerly at the Cantine des Commerçants and second to Serge Labrosse at the
Buffet de la Gare des Eaux-Vives, offers
unusual breakfasts and lunches, aperitifs
before discovering culinary curiosities or
dinners of an inventive or more classical
cuisine; the choice is yours. Carpaccio de SaintJacques wrapped in Serrano or Curiosité of
chocolate or peach; plenty to tempt the palate
in this world of the bizarre and under the
amused eye of the skeleton on display. You
should also try out one of the cocktails
prepared by Jo the barman poet!
Natacha Borri
Café Restaurant Curiositas Geneva
Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 8/10-rez SIP-1205 Geneva
Tel : +41 (0) 22 321 30 37
www.curiositas.ch
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GASTRONOMY
Dominique Gauthier
The star of the Beau Rivage in Geneva
At the front of the peloton we have the
Vallorbe frog’s legs, gigotin and tempura and
mousseline of spinach tips, his foie gras of
trussed, sautéed duck thickly sliced and served
with marinated black olives, his Cape langoustine in kadaif with citrus vinaigrette and basil
chiffonade. These are three particular specialities that appear in the “Guests favourites”
menu. The method for preparing the frogs
came to him during a stay in the mountains
back in 2005, the foie gras 3 years ago and the
langoustines 5 years back when he created his
first menu as chef. We should also add his
extraordinary Vaucluse black truffle bonbon,
a firm favourite with regular guests.
Dominique Gauthier
After the GaultMillau Guide, Michelin has
recognized the chef at the “Chat Botté”.
After eighteen years of loyal service at the Chat
Botté Restaurant at the Beau Rivage Hotel in
Geneva, Dominique Gauthier, at the head of
one of the Canton’s best restaurants has finally
been awarded with his first star. He is one of
three chefs in Geneva and eight in the whole
of Switzerland recognised by Michelin this
year.
Over and above the race to the stars it is
through his talent and the generosity of his
cuisine that the 42-year old is known to us,
not to forget his loyal team starting with
restaurant manager Pascal Brault who has
been with him from the start. Several months
after the recognition from GaultMillau,
Dominique Gauthier can be satisfied with a
goal well attained. A gastronomic goal for the
man that swears his greatest reward is the
customers that taste his creations every day.
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Each season Dominique Gauthier concocts five
star preserves, foie gras “cuit au torchon”, a
selection of olive oils from Moulin and
Calanquet and a nut oil from Guérande that
are sold online through the hotel’s website.
Other specialities include entrecote of bison or
roast venison filet, his carefully prepared linecaught bass from the Ile d’Yeu with its crispy
skin or the Lake Geneva féra; “a very fine and
tasty fish” as he confirms in his recently published recipe book “Fish from our lakes” (Favre
publications). His motto is “My ideas are
inspired by the seasons”, as he explains.
Gilles Brochard
The Chat Botté at the Beau Rivage Hotel
13, quai du Mont-Blanc
1201 Geneva
Tel: +41 (0) 22 716 66 66
www.beau-rivage.ch
GASTRONOMY
Intercontinental Geneva
An urban paradise
Spring has arrived and summer is just around
the corner; the urge to relax and abandon the
bustling city for a while is back. The Intercontinental, close to the centre of Geneva and
managed by Michael Perret offers a palette
of pleasures synonymous with well-being,
calm and sensuality at the Poolside and at
Woods.
Chef Didier Quesnel stirs up your appetite
offering for lunch or dinner a delicate and
mouth-watering Mediterranean cuisine such
as the delicious Lebanese meze. All the dishes
are accompanied by fresh nectars or astonishing colourful cocktails and you can also enjoy
smoking a traditional hookah perfumed with
intoxicating fruits.
After a stressful day at work and suffering
from the heat the moment has come to head
to the Intercontinental and join friends or loved
ones and enjoy some relaxation and leisure.
The Poolside is a haven of peace where time
just seems to stand still.
A magical VIP setting- the love seats- is
reserved for those who prefer exclusivity;
slightly set back from the pool, the love seats
welcome romantics or those who prefer
privacy. A personalised service awaits them;
pool towels changed every two hours, refreshing towels, reading, cinema session with
portable DVD players, a bottle of champagne
rosé ultra brut and many other surprises, it’s
really a dream come true.
The blue waters of the pool, the comfort of the
sun beds, the ease of the deck armchairs, the
soft comfort of the sun or the pleasure of lying
under the shade of the umbrellas are all temptingly inviting during the week or at weekends
up until 11:00 p.m.
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For reservations of season tickets and all other information:
+41 (0) 22 919 39 39 or
www.intercontinental-geneva.ch
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Restaurant Woods
A new menu of summer flavours has been
created by Chef Didier Quesnel, his original
inventiveness creating subtle dishes. A farandole
of green and white asparagus, vitamin-laden
market vegetables, mushrooms- morels,
chanterelles and meadow mushrooms gathered from under the trees to delight your taste
buds.
An audacious mix of fish and seafood, the
choice is infinite; Saint-Pierre, turbot, cod, bass,
langoustines, lobster, gambas. The desserts are
irresistible; there is no way you can say no to
a caramelised crème brûlée with pink rhubarb,
strawberries, raspberries, lemon or exotic
fruits. On Sundays it is wonderful to escape
the city and take the time to sample the range
of sweet and savoury dishes during a traditional brunch- a real delight for the eyes and
the palate!
The generous terrace welcomes guests for
lunch and dinner.
“Of all the passions, the only one that is truly
respectable seems to be a love of food” wrote
Guy de Maupassant, he was absolutely right!
Chantal-Anne Jacot
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Restaurant Woods: +41 (0) 22 919 33 33
Open 7 days a week all year round
Sunday Brunch 12:00-15:00$
Intercontinental Geneva
7-9, chemin du Petit-Saconnex
1209 Geneva, Switzerland
Tel: +41 (0) 22 919 39 39
www.intercontinental-geneva.ch
GASTRONOMY
The Albert 1
er
At the heart of Chamonix
“Perle de la Dombes” duckling lacquered in
honey with fir buds, pickled turnip and wild
thyme, this recipe dates back 20 years and is
particularly dear to Pierre Carrier as it reminds
him of his childhood.
Leafing through the pages of the book (edited
by Glénant) it is clear that these two lovers
of food and the mountains find great joy in
The hamlet of Albert 1er is curled up overlooking the majestic mountains and glaciers;
owned by the same family for a century the
former railway inn has become a charming
hamlet, stamped by Relais & Châteaux, with
its collection of chalets clustered at the foot
of the mountain.
We are in a swanky resort but were received
with warm conviviality at the opening of the
season which also saw the launch of a recipe
book from the two chefs Pierre Carrier and his
son-in-law Pierre Maillet. The pair presented
the book of recipes and images from Mont
Blanc; paying homage to the local cuisine and
the mountain architecture. The book concocted
by the two Pierres is not only beautiful but
filled with flavour and a good example of the
high standards of cuisine on offer at the gastronomic restaurant. With its two stars, the Albert
1er has a dining room recently redecorated
with discreet elegance. The subtly modified
French cuisine has influences from the Mont
Blanc and nearby Italian Piedmont regions,
the quality is superb as the two chefs make use
of only the best produce and give free rein to
their inventiveness in combing tastes and
flavours on the plate. The signature dish is
family and friends and the history of the
Carrier family in the region. On the slopes, at
the peaks and in the kitchen this is a story of
the mountains, full of flavour, to be sampled
without moderation overlooking the snowcovered slopes.
Véronique André
Éditions Glénat / 208 pages /45€
Hameau Albert 1er
119 Impasse du Montenvers, 74400 Chamonix
Tel.: +33 (0) 450 53 05 09
www.hameaualbert.fr
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GASTRONOMY
Domaines Ott
Une
A
Family
histoire
history
de famille
The fame of Domaines Ott is a result of the
constant efforts and enormous care of 4 generations of talented wine makers; these wines
from Provence whether rosés, whites or reds
have three key advantages; strength, finesse
and regularity.
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In 1912, Marcel Ott acquired the Château de
Selle and applied three binding ideas; respect
for nature, quality wine and a real rosé. In 1936
the Clos Mireille also came under his ownership becoming the theatre for the creation of
the famous Blanc de Blancs; 20 years later the
Château Romassan joined the family. Today
Domaines Ott is broken down into 2 appellations; A.O.C Côtes de Provence and A.O.C
Bandol, three domaines and three colours.
Depending on their geographical position,
the wines from the different domaines are
influenced by the soil, the sun and the proximity to the sea. The planting composed of
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Grenache and
Syrah is particularly careful, harmonious and
sometimes atypical; it reflects the talent and
experience of 100 years of passion for winegrowing in Provence. The wine making process
is precise in order to ensure the qualitative regularity necessary for a wine of this reputation.
Complex, elegant, round or delicate, each year
700,000 bottles of wine from Domaines Ott are
tasted each year at some of the best tables in
the world. Ott is part of the champagne group
Louis Roederer distributed in Switzerland by
Maisons Marques et Domaines S.A, thus assuring that its reputation will extend its influence
and make the Provence sun shine in all four
corners of the world.
Natacha Borri
Domaines Ott
Clos Mireille
Route Fort de Brégançon
83250 La Londe des Maures- France
Tel : +33 (0) 494 01 53 53
www.domaines-ott.com
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