Suzuki Burgman 650 Installation

Transcription

Yelvington 3.0 Installation
Checklist For Suzuki Burgman
CVT Automatic
Exercising The Common Sense Muscles:
Although far too many of us loath to do it, please read thru all directions before you begin,
making sure you have the parts you need, the required tools, and inventory your own skills to
make sure you can perform the tasks safely. Before you actually begin this project, please
make sure you have a clear understanding of the basic shop safety procedures; that you dress
appropriately and use safety equipment as required.
Protect your eyes with the proper safety glasses, face shields or goggles whenever you are
using the like of hammers, grinders, drills, or air driven tools. Don’t neglect other protective
wear such as gloves or safety shoes.
When you lift your vehicle make sure that it is secure and lashed down good. And just to be
safe, make sure the battery is disconnected before you begin the disassembly.
Keep all cigarettes, sparks, or flame away from the battery and all fuel related parts. Use only
non-flammable solvents to clean parts (not gasoline!) And remember, never drain or store
gasoline in open containers.
Before we begin, let's talk about Loctite. As you know, this is a specialized single component
anaerobic adhesive (i.e. one that cures in the absence of air) and is to be applied to fasteners
(bolts, nuts, screws, etc) to lock the threads. Only the part actually within the threads and
12395 Belcher Rd. South, Unit 320, Largo, Florida 33773 ~ Phone: 727-233-3610
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CVT Automatic Installation
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deprived of air actually hardens. The rest remains liquid and should be wiped away after the
assembly.
Keeping It Together:
Loctite comes in grades that are color coded. Blue is ordinary strength and provides about the
same locking action as a star washer and not very appropriate for our installation (the fastener
can too easily be loosened with hand tools). Red Loctite is the next step up. It is quite strong
and requires considerable force to break loose but when you want to, it can be removed with
hand tools without heat. Red Loctite is the only grade you should use. Except for the wheel
mounting lug nuts, the red Loctite must be used for pretty much all the fasteners on the
Yelvington assembly.
We encourage you to use an “indexing” system to assure that no important threads are missed.
Using a green marker pen to mark each fastener that has been installed with red Loctite is a
good system. Use a marker with non-permanent ink so you can wipe them clean with acetone
when finished with the installation.
We also suggest that you use the branded Loctite and not a cheaper generic that is an allegedly
“works like” substitution. Finally before we leave the Loctite discussion, we also suggest
putting a dab of their “Instant Gasket” product on any of the decorative chrome nut covers you
may use as well.
The red Loctite reaches 50% strength in a couple of hours, with a full cure in 24 hours.
Therefore, if this is the first installation you will have done, and there’s any chance that you
won’t finish the install in a single, same day session, our recommendation for most of the
fasteners is to “dry fit” as much as possible without the Loctite. Next, when everything is fit
and aligned properly to go back and lock in one at a time. Otherwise, those who are
experienced and confident they that will finish in a couple of hours can Loctite as they go
along from the start.
Directions for Loctite use for Assembly:
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For best results, clean all surfaces (external and internal) with a cleaning solvent and
allow to dry completely.
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Shake thoroughly and frequently during use.
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To prevent clogging in the nozzle, do not allow the tip to touch metal surfaces during
application.
For thru holes, apply several drops of the product onto the bolt at the nut engagement
area.
For blind holes, apply several drops of the product down the internal threads to the
bottom of the hole.
For Disassembly: Apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 250° C. Disassemble
(carefully!) while hot.
For Cleanup: Cured product can be removed with a combination of soaking in a Loctite
solvent and mechanical abrasion such as a wire brush.
General Torque Values:
By in large, the bolts used on the Yelvington 3.0 CVT assembly are stainless steel and if not
terminated with a nut, they are often threaded into aluminum. Most fasteners are used in
conjunction with the red LocTite thread locker material and therefore while we want
everything to be snug of course, attention must also be paid to not over tightening the fasteners.
Wheels: The wheel studs used are 12x1.25mm and therefore we recommend between 70-80 ft/
lbs and usually about 7-8 turns on the threads. (we don’t recommend LocTite on wheels!)
Axle nut: The OEM spec for tightening the castle nut on the right side of the axle was 75 ft/lbs,
however with the changes we’ve made in this section do NOT exceed 25 ft/lbs when reinstalling the castle nut.
Miscellaneous: 32-40 ft/lbs of torque on all the various 3/8” bolts as well as the 10 mm on the
exhaust spacer. The 5/16” exhaust bolts should be 28 ft/lbs. The differential bolts are done to
32 ft/lbs.
Donor Ride Disassembly:
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Okay, let’s really get started. If not done already, carefully unpack and check your unit
components for any damage. Your order will be insured at the time of shipping, please
let us know immediately of any damage. Note that the axle assembly is in two basic
parts (left side, right side) that can only be installed one way! (unless you try really,
really, really hard to do it wrong).
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It is always a good idea to disconnect your battery when performing the kinds of
operations involved in a project like this.
We don’t recommend using air driven tools to assemble your unit. Much of the
construction is aluminum and such tools tend to “over drive” the nuts and bolts.
There’s no real reason to have to remove the scooter’s stock “tupperware” body panels
in order to install the Yelvington 3.0 CVT assembly assembly other than perhaps the
rear mudflap. If you have side bags however, they’ll have to be removed to allow you
free access to the rear section.
We recommend using a regular motorcycle lift. A wide ATV/Trike style lift would be
nice, but a two wheel lift can work just fine. Just be careful not to impale yourself on
the wheel hubs after the tubes are installed!
Next roll the donor bike on to your lift and secure the front wheel and front end. Before
removing the rear wheel and swing arm, you’ll need to get a good support for under the
frame ready. The preferred method is to use a wide base jack stand designed for that
purpose:
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But you can make do with two 4x4 blocks. Believe it or not, the best way to set the bike
on these blocks is with two stout volunteers hoisting up the rear, while someone from
management slides the two 4x4’s into position. On the other hand, the recommended
wide jack stand is almost too easy – just crank it up to the right height.
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To anchor the bike securely, thread a ratcheting tie down strap over the frame
members.
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Prior to removing rear wheel, you may want to “lash” the rear hand brake with Velcro or
a zip-tie. This may help prevent fluid flow when the rear brake caliper is removed.
In addition to the step by step instructions following next for the rear wheel removal,
you might want to check out the YouTube presentation by “Le Dude” (an authoritative
and well known technical presence on the web):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyqLhWoEMFw
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Remove the final drive plastic cover on the left hand side using an 8mm socket wrench.
Set it aside, it will not be re-used.
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Disconnect the rear brake lock cable.
Unbolt and remove the stock rear brake assembly and disconnect the brake hose on the
right front side of swing arm.
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Start by removing the 10mm lock nut and loosen the 3mm hex screw by turning it
counter clock wise.
Now undo the two 12mm support bolts and the brake lock assembly should come right
out.
Pull out the cotter pin with a pair of pliers. Then remove the rear axle nut & washer.
Next, using a 22mm socket wrench on the left hand side, hold the axle while you undo it
from the right side with a 24mm socket wrench. You may want to use a piece of tubing
over ratchet handle for extra leverage.
Remove the rear wheel brake caliper 12mm support bolts. Now remove the caliper
itself, disconnecting brake line at the caliper and capping off the brake line to prevent
introduction of dust or debris into your line.
Push the axle out halfway removing the collar & spacer between the swing arm and the
wheel.
Pull the axle all the way out and the wheel should come loose easily.
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The wheel itself will not be re-used, however the drive yolk will:
Drive Yoke
Press down all lock tabs
Use a lever to pry out the yoke
Lock each of the three tabs and use a
24” or so breaker bar to remove bolts
Yoke properly installed on the adapter
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At this point you can unbolt the lower connections for the shocks and let the swing arm
drop down.
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We recommend that you unscrew the oxygen sensor (leaving the wires attached) and
move and tape it up out of the way. The removal from its mount will greatly facilitate
the installation steps that follow for the right side plate, threaded rods, etc.
Carefully remove the ABS sensor ring (if you have one) and set it aside for reinstallation along with the axle itself. Make sure that the ABS ring is not bent while
outside of the bike:
Set aside the ABS sensor ring
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Although you can leave it in place, we recommend you take out the center stand as well.
It is no longer useful and hangs down too low to just leave it there:
General Installation Notes:
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Lay out the various nuts & bolts making sure you have all that you need. Also as
indicated above, make sure that the nuts and bolts are clean and ready for the Loctite in
final assembly. Acetone is good for that cleaning process (use your gloves!!)
Check & clean off any “sharp” edges left over from the machining process -particularly on the plates, cross bars and spacers. A sharp edged chisel or a medium to
fine grit sandpaper works well for that. Check and ream out any spacer center holes that
might need it.
Finally, depending upon your installation platform you may want to loosen the rear
muffler mounts and remove the bolt from the mount connection that is ahead of the
swing arm. Using a wire or rope, tie up the muffler to the right passenger hand grip.
This keeps it out of the way but also prevents any sensor wires from pulling loose or
breaking.
Running Gear Assembly:
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Okay, let’s get put it together. Shown below is are shots of the assembly you are
building:
Left Side Plate Assembly:
Place the supplied 1” aluminum spacers on the back side of the left plate in the
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corresponding 14 recessed holes.
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After removing the 14 bolts that secure the final drive assembly (around the perimeter
of the case shown below) take the left side plate and position it over the drive assembly.
You will use the black allen head bolts & flat washers supplied to bolt plate to final
drive transmission housing. Slide each of them into the corresponding left plate bolt
holes that match up to the original final drive transmission housing mounting points.
When actually mounting the plate, use both a flat and lock washer on each of these
bolts.
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Next bolt up the top 14 ½” x 2” rectangular cross bar to the left side plate and loosely
mount the right side plate. Now double check the various holes on both sides to make
sure they line up properly. You may need to ream out or elongate any that might need
adjustment because we have found that there are minor variations in how the factory
covers are machined.
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Now bolt up the other 14 ½” x 2” rectangular cross bar to the left side plate. And also
leave slightly loose (½ turn). Install one on the top of the side plate (as shown above)
and the other two on the bottom.
Bend back the stock brake line bracket (which will actually be in way of one of the
threaded rods if you don’t!), and hook up the Yelvington supplied brake line and let it
hang down.
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Install one of the two 14 ½” x 1” tubular aluminum cross bars to the lower rear
mounting of the left side plate using 3/8” x 1 ¼” bolts leave slightly loose (½ turn).
BTW: It will help you to leave the upper rear one off until the latter phase of the install.
This will allow you better access to the rear axle installation and adjustments.
Right Side Plate Assembly:
Threaded Rods w/Welded Nuts
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The first step of installing the right side plate is to install the three threaded rods in place
of the three right front bolts holding the front of the swing arm together. Of the three,
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the longer bolt goes on the top. Place 1” round spacers over the threaded rod before
installation. Since they are different lengths, make sure they basically come out flush
and equal on the end protruding out towards the right side. Remove & replace only one
at a time! If you remove all of them together, the two halves of the swing arm can
separate and can pull away from the transmission.
Additionally, since the factory usually puts a thread locker on these OEM bolts, you
might encounter difficulty in removing them. Take care in doing so. You don’t want to
break one during the extraction. This is especially true for older, stored outside or
higher mile units. Use a spot on heat gun if necessary to “break” the thread locker
bond. And be sure to clean out the holes before re-installing our threaded rods. A high
powered air hose helps in that regard and better yet, a wire brush type reamer to clean
out debris that can cause difficulties in installing the new bolts.
Threaded Rod Spacers
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Install the upper threaded rod first. It is the longer of the three rods. After that, put on
the Yelvington supplied brake line to the existing output from old brake line. Let the
newly combined hose hang loose under assembly. (By installing this in the beginning
you will have less trouble later if you have to put it on after more of the right side
assembly components are already installed!!)
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Secure the line to the spacer on the upper rod with a nylon wire tie as shown above:
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If not done already, now would be a good time to install the small triangular plate to the
inside front lower half of the right side plate. Put it all together with the two hex headed
bolts & stand offs as shown:
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The four 3/8” x 2” bolts supplied use the .750 stand offs to get the right distance for
exhaust clearance. The proper installation of the small setback plate used to make
clearance for the O2 sensor and exhaust (using the 3 threaded rods) is easy to say but
somewhat hard to picture. So following are several pictures from various angles of a
properly installed set of threaded rods and the setback!
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Therefore, if not already done, install the exhaust clearance setback plate to the inside
front of the right side plate using the 3/4” long, round standoffs and 3/8” bolts supplied.
Check the clearance between the bracket and the plate to make sure that it is the same
front to back.
Now place the remaining 1” round aluminum standoff spacers between the right side
swing arm and the inside of the right side plate as shown below. Install the 2” bolts
through these and snug up all the bolts and then back them off to a ½ turn loose.
Chain Sprocket & Stock Axle Rod Installation:
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Chains and sprockets are a time tested technology and their reliability is beyond
question, especially for the hardened chains we use. Secondarily, initial installation (or
re-installs) of the chain drive is much easier than that of the old belt/pulley combination.
And field repair/replacement of the chain is a snap by comparison. Last, and most
unexpectedly, the chain has proven to be quieter than the belt/pulley combination!
The front chain sprocket assembly is usually shipped loosely bolted together. Unbolt
the sprocket so you can install the front adapter plate. Attach the adapter plate using the
splined yoke rear wheel drive removed earlier in the disassembly phase. Place the
adapter plate on the yoke using the fine threaded 12mm bolts; then put the thick
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aluminum spacer on that; mount the sprocket itself last and bolt it all down with the 6
3/8” bolts to complete the assembly. Note especially the orientation of bearing inside of
the aluminum spacer itself – it butts flat against the aluminum adapter plate:
Left Side, Front Sprocket Adapter
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Right Side, Front Sprocket Adapter
Be sure to use lots of red Loctite on all the drive system bolts!
Now re-install the stock axle assembly starting with the existing axle.
Start on the left side of the left side plate and put 2” washer over the end of axle. Press
axle into the final drive transmission housing, through the left side steel tubing “sleeve”
type spacer (pictured below) and then through the existing flared steel tubing spacers.
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Screw in all the bolts. Drive axle through spacer tube and through right side plate. Reinstall the “castle” type axle nut in the right side plate and tighten up (but don’t use the
cotter pin). More than any, be sure to red Loctite this nut when you go through the final
“lock down” process! The OEM spec for tightening the castle nut was 75 ft/lbs,
however with the changes we’ve made in this section do NOT exceed 25 ft/lbs when reinstalling the castle nut.
Installing The Lower Shock Mounts:
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Now install the left and right shock “L” shaped spacer blocks and insert the .791
aluminum tube spacer in the lower mount as shown below:
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As you can see below, there are four positions possible for the lower shock mounts.
These positions allow you additional control over the rear suspension:
Sealing The Axle Splines
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As you assemble the left and right axles, we recommend you install a “sealing” bead of
high temp RTV sealant at the base of each of the axle splines when you put the unit
together.
Clean the spline areas real good with degreaser and/or acetone. When you are ready for
a final assembly (not just a dry fitting process), place a generous bead of Black Ultra
RTV around the base of each of the axles as shown in the photo below:
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The bead shown above would be the minimum used. You can double the amount of
RTV with ease, just don’t glop it all over the place!
Be sure to remove any rags used for shipping to “plug” the differential axle shaft holes
before proceeding (they are only there to keep grease from getting on anything else
during shipping). To install the differential, first place the #1 spacer on the right rear
axle coming from the inside of the right side plate.
Holding the differential in place, using two 1.75” x 3/8” stainless steel bolts install right
side axle assembly and tighten. Leave ½ turn loose. If it is not already in place, install
spacer over axle protruding from right axle assembly.
Slide the differential onto splined shaft until it engages the splined gears inside. When
working with the axle tube assemblies, make sure that the O-rings on each end are in
place and intact. Although small, these are important components which help to keep
your differential grease from leaking out. You should also add a bead of the Ultra Black
RTV gasket goo next to the O-ring for extra insurance! (for both right & left axles – see
below)
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At this point, the two sprockets should be aligned. Allow the differential to hang on the
right side axle.
Now install the left axle/tear drop assembly through the side plate and insert the splines
into the differential (along with the Ultra Black RTV bead).
Turn a wheel hub and you should see the hub on the opposite side rotate in reverse.
Next turn the differential itself and both hubs should rotate with it.
Rear Axle Alignment Checks:
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Now you should be ready for final alignment of the rear axle assembly. Loop on and
hook up the chain itself:
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You may want to use a small hose clamp to pull & hold the chain together to make the
installation of the master link easier as shown below:
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And if yours is a half link make sure it is installed as shown above.
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Now tighten the bolts on the left and right side teardrops. Then tighten all remaining
side plate bolts by going from left to right starting at the back of the plate and then
moving forward. After snugging up each bolt during this process, continue to check the
differential alignment by rotating the wheel hubs. If they begin to stiffen up or make
more noise, back off and loosen the last bolt you did and move on to the next ones in
sequence. Then come back to tighten the skipped bolt(s) last. Note the “vacant” hole
on the right side teardrop installation as shown below:
NOTE: Keep in mind that the scooter’s final drive transmission is geared and therefore
some level of “drag” (i.e. resistance) is always present. However, at this point you
should have a smoothly working assembly when you turn the hubs by hand. A slight
“clicking” noise from the differential gears rotation is perfectly normal.
Optional Chain Tensioner Install
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There are two styles of chain tensioners – sprockets and composite wheels. If you were
sent a chain tensioner, or see the need for one in the future, you need to loosen and
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remove the two 1” round support tubes on the underneath side. Install the tensioner as
shown below (on most models, the narrow leading edge is towards the front).
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Use of the tensioner is somewhat optional inasmuch as the chain has been sized for a
tight fit and is not subject to the usual “stretching” forces.
Rear Brake Installation:
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Unless your donor bike is brand new or just had a brake overhaul, we recommend
draining your system and replacing the brake fluid. That is because brake fluids are
hygroscopic in nature, meaning they readily absorb water even through exposure to the
air. And moisture in the system weakens the power to stop! I would never use brake
fluid from an already opened bottle that has been sitting around for any length of time.
Attach the brake line to the brake caliper before you bolt the caliper on. Use care to not
over tighten this relatively “soft” fitting. Remove the front bottom bleed screw and use
the hole to attach the new brake line. Use Teflon thread tape when you do.
Once the line is properly attached, bolt the caliper in place by using the 1” aluminum
spacers provided and open the top bleeder screw.
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Bleed the new rear brake using the top bleed screws on the caliper. Make sure you do
not loosen the remaining bottom bleed screw – ever! Bleeding brakes can be
troublesome, so we find using one of those “one man” bleeding tools to work best, but
the old fashioned way will work – it just takes longer! Use some nylon wire ties to
secure the new brake line to the right side differential vertical support.
Since we are doing the rear brake, you’ll be adding fluid to the left side handlebar
master cylinder. Be sure to use the proper DOT brake fluid that’s already in your
system (likely DOT-4) because mixing types is a bad idea! On the other hand, it is a
good idea to use a large rag wrapped around that master cylinder to help catch any
brake fluid spillage. You don’t want any of that nasty brake fluid screwing up your
bodywork! Even better yet is to make a “cup” out of aluminum foil that goes on the
under side of the rag as extra insurance.
After you have sufficient initial pressure, you can zip tie the handle snug against the
handle bar and leave it there over night. Often the steady pressure thus maintained will
help to force the remaining air bubbles to absorb back into the fluid. The next day you
can bleed it one more time and you should be good to go:
When properly bled, there should be a good grip on the brake disk when the lever is
pulled and no drag when released. If the brake disk does drag, the axle tip may not be
all the way into the gears of the differential. Tap (but don’t whack!) the brake disk on
both sides with a rubber mallet and this should “seat” the axle and correct the alignment.
Now you’ll want to check the initial brake stopping power. One way to do that is to
hand spin the tires reasonably fast and then jam on the brake. If the brake doesn’t stop
the tire almost immediately, re-bleed the brake until it does. Even so, once on the
ground, the rear brake can feel a bit “mushy” at first and could even need a bit of a
“pumping” action. This should improve right away once the disk is “bedded” as
described below and should continue to improve over the first few hundred miles. After
500-600 miles, we recommend a re-bleed for those systems not yet at full strength.
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Parking Brakes:
Our first parking brakes were simplicity itself – a couple of 10” long Velcro straps that you
were to lash around one or both hand brake levers (after pulling in the handles of course!).
This method was effective, but all around not the best implementation. Next we tried to use
the Wilwood mechanical brake tied into the OEM brake lever. Although that worked, it was
and is very “touchy” to keep properly adjusted not to mention the time and effort it added to
the kit installation. And the adjustment requires crawling under the bike and getting behind the
right side plate. It is not at all convenient, even for those with access to a trike lift (and how
many have one of them??)
Taking a look at what the ATV industry does and a page out of own history, we went back to
another handlebar implementation. This time it is a rubber wedge that is to be inserted in front
of the pivot point of the brake levers after pulling the brake back. This use of one brake is
more than enough for most situations, but we are supplying two wedges so both front and rear
brakes are ready to use for parking. I’ll save another 2000 words with these pictures:
Just loop the anchor chain to hold the wedge near the front of the brake lever and you are done.
Exhaust Re-install:
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Use the 5/16” bolt and 2” x 1” round spacer to bolt the rear exhaust muffler to the stock
support location. Remove the rubber isolator and bolt directly to the metal brace.
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Rear Wheels:
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If you haven’t done it already, install your two new wheels/tires. In most cases, tires are
obtained locally rather than supplied by Yelvington Trikes. If so, we recommend using
only a 17565R14 on this scooter, and suggest that you specify a “highway” tread
whenever possible. By the way, contrary to conventional wisdom, your automotive type
trike tires should always be slightly under-inflated. Doing so will give you a better ride
and better handling. Remember, you are using car tires on a motorcycle that weighs a
small fraction of what they were designed to carry. Consequently, the normal warnings
against under inflation don’t really apply as much to your situation. Use 18-22 lbs for
the rear and about 33 lbs for the front and adjust as needed from those starting points.
Rotate the differential in a forward direction. Do both wheels turn smoothly in that
same direction? Now turn one wheel clockwise. Does the other wheel turn counterclockwise? The answer to both questions should be “yes” and don’t be concerned about
hearing some “gear noise” -- it is perfectly normal. Actually, enjoy what you are
listening to now, because the excessive whine typical of the Burgman final drive will
drown out any differential noise when you are driving!
As you turn the mechanism you want to “feel” for hesitation or dragging spots in the
differential gear mesh. If you do, slightly loosen one side’s teardrop. If after a dozen
revolutions the hesitation/drag persists, re-tighten the side you just loosened and loosen
the other side and re-test. Otherwise, turn the wheels until there’s no hesitation before
you start tightening the teardrop bolts one at a time. Try using a crisscross patterns,
snugging first then locking down, checking the rotational smoothness as you go along.
Optional Fender Installation:
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There are several different combinations of fenders and wheels for any given trike.
Therefore, the following fender installation instructions are generalized to accommodate
them all.
The first step is to position evenly and install the dual spoked fender supports to each
fender. Take care to make sure that your fender fore/aft positioning is the same. Be
sure to leave sufficient distance between the side supports and the inside of the tire to
clear the heads of the mounting bolts. Dry fit the fenders with the wheels installed to
properly gauge the clearance distances of the fender relative to the inside tire wall and
treads. A folded over bath towel draped around the top of the tire is a handy “spacer” to
use in this regard for fenders that are not pre-drilled. Properly curved pieces of 1”
EMT or even wooden blocks taped to the tires work as well. Install the fenders on the
supports using the supplied nuts/bolts.
The next step is to lightly snug fit the fender/supports and position them where they fit
best on the left/right axis. Rotate the bracket so that spokes are evenly spaced relative
to the 12 o’clock position and lay on the fender(s) in the position(s) you prefer. If you
have selected the 9” or 10.75” aluminum fenders, evenly spaced is the normal
positioning as shown below:
Snug down the fender mounts to the axle tube and secure the fenders to the supports
with the supplied bolts. Make sure that you secure the front and rear bolts evenly – do
not tighten one and then pull the other down to it. That places extra stresses on the
bracket. You might want to secure the fender bracket bolts using the Blue Loctite
(instead of the red) for easier removability. That said, once installed, fenders are seldom
removed. It is your call on which to use.
When you have settled on fender positions that you like, you can also use a thin coating
of marine grade pure silicone adhesive caulking on both the upper and lower bracket to
help lock them in place, fill in any minor gaps, and help reduce vibration transfer.
Special care needs to be taken in securing the fender brackets beyond just using Blue
Loctite instead of the red because the brackets can be mounted right over the outer axle
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bearings. Those bearings are 1.25” wide, so don’t drill thru the 4.5” axle tube within 2”
from the outer edges.
That said, we do recommend that at least the lower brackets be “pinned” with a ¼” or
even 3/8” bolts. If not already there, make sure there is a hole drilled and tapped on the
lower bracket so you can mark on the axle tube a place to drill at least a shallow (1/8”
deep) hole for a set screw bolt to lock in. If anywhere near 2” from the axle tube end,
drill no further than that 1/8” into the axle tube itself.
Again, depending upon how you decide to position the support brackets, you could be
drilling into those outer axle bearings – not a good thing to do! Check out the reference
photos below:
Fender Mounting Installation Options

If yours are the 9” double flared style fenders, you can leave the ends evenly spaced;
with the leading edge at the 9:00 o’clock position or the trailing edge at the 3:00 o’clock
position by simply rotating the bracket fore or aft as you like. For example the one
shown below is in the 9:00 o’clock position:

Use the supplied wide bumper washers on the outside of fender secured with the chrome
cap nuts if you have the fiberglass fenders.
Final Brake Installation Steps:
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Once the brake system has been bled, tested and determined safe to operate the trike,
follow these steps for “bedding” of the rear pad materials and rotor. The bedding
process is the final “heat cure” for the pads necessary to ensure maximum performance.
Basically, the new pads need to be brought up to temperature and then slowly cooled. If
the new pads are put into hard service right from the start, damage or accelerated wear
can occur from fractures that can result from extreme temperature variation between the
pad surface and the body of the pad.
1. Begin with a series of 8-10 light stops from approximately 30 MPH down to 15 MPH
allowing 20-30 seconds for cooling between each stop.
2. Progress to series of 8-10 moderate stops from around 45 MPH down to 30 MPH
allowing the 20-30 second cool down period between each stop.
3. Proceed with a series of 8-10 hard stops from 55-65 MPH down to 25 MPH allowing
20-30 seconds of cool down time between each stop.
4. Drive at a moderate cruising speed and avoid using your rear brakes until most of the
heat has dissipated from them. Park the trike as soon as you can and allow the brakes to
cool to ambient air temperature (at least 15-20 minutes). After the bedding process is
done, a more positive feel from the brakes should be noticed.
Done:

After double checking all connections and tightening of all nuts/bolts (which you
installed with the red Loctite of course!) that’s it, you should be done! If not, give us a
call and let’s find out why! The factory number is 727-233-3610.
Owner Maintenance Recommendations
The Yelvington Trikes 3.0 CVT assembly has been designed and built to be as
maintenance free as possible, but like anything mechanical, some care and feeding is required.
The six main bearings in your new unit are sealed and do not require routine maintenance -ever. The Yelvington 3.0 differential has been pre-loaded with the proper axle grease and
unless “torn down” for some other reason, should not require that you add anything to it. In
fact, you may notice some minor leakage from the sides until the unit finds its own level. It
should stop on its own accord after some few hundred miles (at most).
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The only regular routine maintenance you need to attend to on any of Yelvington Trikes
conversions is (1) maintaining proper levels for your tires and fluids; (2) bleeding or adjusting
the brakes (all of which you normally would have done before); (3) to keep your nuts and bolts
tightened and lastly, (4) lube and tension the chain drive train.
Fluids:
In regards to your motor/transmissions fluids just follow the OEM guidance for
your model for oil and coolant levels.
Tires:
As described elsewhere, the air pressure in your automotive type trike tires
should always be slightly under-inflated. Doing so will give you a better ride and usually
better handling. Remember, you are using car tires on a motorcycle that weighs a small
fraction of what they were designed to carry. Consequently, the normal warnings against under
inflation don’t really apply as much to your situation. Recommended starting points are 18-22
lbs for the rear and about 33 lbs for the front (or whatever the OEM recommends) and adjust as
needed from those starting points. In your testing, you can usually head downward on the rears
(down as far as 15psi) and may want to go upwards on the front.
Bleeding: When you bleed the new rear brake use the top bleed screws on the caliper.
Make sure you do not loosen the remaining bottom bleed screws – ever! Bleeding motorcycle
brakes can be troublesome, so we find using one of those “one man” bleeding vaccum/pump
tools to work best, but the old fashioned way will work – it just takes longer and often requires
multiple cycles!
Be sure to use the same DOT brake fluid that’s already in your system (likely DOT-4)
because mixing types is a bad idea! On the other hand, it is a good idea to use a large rag
wrapped around that master cylinder to help catch any brake fluid spillage. You don’t want
any of that nasty brake fluid screwing up your bodywork! Even better yet is to make a “cup”
out of aluminum foil that goes on the under side of the rag as extra insurance.
After you have pumped up sufficient initial pressure, you can zip tie the handle snug
against the handle bar and leave it there over night. Often the steady pressure thus maintained
will help to force the remaining air bubbles to absorb back into the fluid. Usually, the next day
you can bleed it one more time and you should be good to go:
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Brake Adjustments:
When properly bled, there should be a good grip on the brake disk
when the lever is pulled and no drag when released. If the brake disk does drag, the axle tip
may not be all the way into the gears of the differential. Tap (but don’t whack!) the brake disk
on both sides with a rubber mallet and this should “seat” the axle and correct the alignment.
Now you’ll want to check the current brake stopping power. One way to do that is to jack up
the rear and hand spin the tires reasonably fast and then jam on the brake. If the brake doesn’t
stop the tire almost immediately, re-bleed the brake until it does. Even so, once on the ground,
the rear brake can feel a bit “mushy” at first and could even need a bit of a “pumping” action.
This should improve right away once the disk is “bedded” as described below and should
continue to improve over the first few hundred miles after bleeding the system. After 500-600
miles, we recommend a re-bleed for those systems not yet at full strength.
Parking Brake:
The parking brake is not tied into the hydraulic caliper system although it
uses the same rotor. It's on the leading edge of the front of the rear rotor. It is totally
mechanical and is adjusted right at the caliper arm using a couple wrenches and pliers. You
don't want it to be too tight and thus it will add drag on the rotor. Adjust it until the pads are
engaged right as the lever is pulled and then back off the clevis a bit. The parking brake should
not be depended upon to hold by itself on a steep incline. It is a good idea to carry a couple of
double sided strips of Velcro to lash your brake levers by wrapping them around the hand grips
when on such a hill. The Velcro is inexpensive and reliable insurance!
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Fastener Maintenace:
All motorcycles have noticeable vibration. And one thing a rider
needs to be sure of is that all the fasteners (i.e. nuts & bolts) stay right where they belong.
Modern science has given us thread lockers, especially Loctite to facilitate that need. Loctite
comes in grades that are color coded. Blue is ordinary strength and provides about the same
locking action as a star washer and not very appropriate for our installation (the fastener can
too easily be loosened with hand tools). Red Loctite is the next step up. It is quite strong and
requires considerable force to break loose but when you want to, it can be removed with hand
tools without heat. This is the only grade you should use. Except for the wheel mounting lug
nuts, the red Loctite must be used for pretty much all the fasteners on the Yelvington assembly.
Indexing your primary fasteners can help. Indexing means marking them in their tightened
state. The usual method is with a permanent marker or drop of paint that bridges nut/head to
the solid surface the fastener connects with. If or when, the nut/head moves, the marking
moves giving you warning to check the fastener’s condition. We suggest using contrasting
colors when possible. Use black paint on silver material, white on dark, etc.
We also suggest that you use the branded Loctite and not a cheaper generic that is an allegedly
“works like” substitution. To do so would be a false economy – ask me how I know!
Chain Maintenance:
We use a high quality, name brand size #530 hardened chain to
transfer the power to the differential. The #530 chain is the same size as the chains on the big
twin American cruiser motorcycles.
We include a chain tensioner device for the new drive chain. The chain supplied fits quite
exactly to start off but as with all chains, over time it will stretch. The Yelvington 3.0 CVT
assemblies are shipping with a high density polyurethane wheel chain tensioner.
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Like the dino vs. synthetic oil controversies, so also are there varying opinions and
recommendations regarding chain lube and cleaning – even among the chain manufactures
themselves. We’ll go with a middle of the road, less-is-more approach because street driven
trikes don’t grunge up their chains like off-roaders do.
To clean your ring chain, it is best to do so when you can hand spin the rear differential (i.e.
rear wheels safely off the ground, by whatever means you want to accomplish this). First off,
avoid blasting your chain with a pressure washer. If you must, a gentle stream from your
garden hose will remove any dirt and debris.
Rotate the rear wheel of the trike (taking care to keep your fingers away from the sprockets and
chain), spray a WD-40 type moisture displacement lubricant to one side of the chain. After 2 or
3 full revolutions, aim from the other side and repeat. Thus you will have loosened and
floated the dirt off the chain. Now you need to wipe off the chain with a clean cloth to remove
the excess lubricant and any dirt residue. The interval for cleaning/lube will be dictated by
your kind of usage and visual inspection of the condition of the chain itself. Events such as
driving in foul weather and washing down your rig will also trigger chain maintenance as well.
Front End Upgrades
Once you trike your ride, your front end will act and feel quite different. You no longer lean
into curves using the counter steering technique unique to two wheeled vehicles. Trikes steer
around corners like a car. What’s also different is that there are three “tracks” now instead of
two. Consequently, some odd things appear to happen. For one thing, conditions in the front
end not noticed when the front and rear wheels were on the same track show up quickly as a
trike. Foremost among these is a slight “wobble” felt in the handle bars at various (usually
low) speeds. The root causes are usually taken care of by maintenance of (1) a front tire out of
balance; (2) front end mechanics are loose or worn; or (3) fork hydraulics that need servicing.
Taking care of one or all three generally clears up any symptoms.
There has been any number of good postings on the BurgmanUSA.com forum in this regard.
www.YTRIKES.com

Suzuki Burgman 650 Installation

Transcription

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