Global ARF Ultimate Biplane

Transcription

.46 SIZE AEROBATIC ARF PERFORMANCE BIPLANE
Instructions for Final Assembly
Would you like to fly your own Ultimate Biplane? Do you want to be flying in a weekend?
Are you ready for an aerobatic 46 size performance biplane? Then you’ve chosen wisely.
The Global ARF Ultimate was made for you. Features like an all balsa and plywood built up
airframe, just like you'd do it yourself from a kit. A generous tail section combined with a
long fuselage moment and swept wings make this an aerobatic performer that you'll always
want to fly. A super strong metal wing center cabane system with outer plywood interplane
struts hold everything together when you're performing snap rolls and inverted spins. To go
along with this we've provided a prepainted four color cowling, prepainted wheel pants and
a clear molded canopy. There is no other aerobatic biplane in it's class that is easier to
assemble or that flys better. We know you’ll enjoy building the Ultimate, but you bought this
airplane to fly. And that's what it does best. Set up for sport flying, it’s predictable and
tracks like it's on rails. Deceivingly easy to fly, change the set-up parameters and you’ll
push the envelope like an experienced airshow performer. Complete inverted flat spins and
torque rolls like you’ve never performed before!
Version V1.0
3-99
Kit # 123820
All Contents © Copyright 1999
1
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Kit Contents....................................................2
Additional Items Required...............................3
Tools and Supplies Needed..............................3
Field Support Equipment Needed.....................3
Metric Conversion Chart..................................3
Bottom Wing Mounting...................................4
Align the Bottom Wing.............................4
Installing the Blind Nuts...........................4
Installing the Wing Bolt Doubler...............5
Installing the Wing....................................5
Horizontal Stabilizer Mounting........................5
Align the Horizontal Stabilizer..................5
Mounting the Horizontal Stabilizer............6
Vertical Stabilizer Mounting...........................7
Align the Vertical Stabilizer......................7
Mounting the Vertical Stabilizer................7
Top Wing Mounting........................................7
Align the Top Wing...................................7
Installing the Interplane Struts...................8
Mounting the Top Wing............................9
Control Surface Installation..............................9
Hinge the Elevator Halves.........................9
Install the Tail Wheel Assembly................9
Hinge the Rudder....................................10
Install the Tail Wheel..............................11
Hinge the Bottom Wing Ailerons............11
Hinge the Top Wing Ailerons..................11
Engine Mounting...........................................12
Mounting Engine to Motor Mount...........12
Aligning the Motor Mount.......................12
Mounting the Engine to Firewall..............13
Fuel Tank......................................................13
Fuel Tank Assembly................................13
Fuel Tank Installation..............................14
Throttle Linkage............................................14
Installing the Throttle Linkage.................14
Main Landing Gear........................................14
Installing the Gear Bracket.......................14
Installing the Wheel Pants........................15
Adjusting the Wheel Pants.......................15
Aileron Servo................................................16
Installing the Aileron Servo.....................16
Installing the Aileron Linkage..................16
Radio Installation...........................................17
Installing the Servo Tray..........................17
Installing the Servos.................................17
Installing the Receiver and Battery...........17
Installing the Switch................................17
Throttle Linkage............................................18
Installing the Throttle Connector..............18
Rudder Pushrod..............................................18
Installing the Rudder Control Horn..........18
Installing the Rudder Pushrod..................19
Elevator Pushrod............................................20
Installing the Elevator Control Horns.......20
Installing the Pushrod Joiner....................20
Installing the Elevator Pushrod.................20
Aileron Links.................................................21
Installing the Control Horns.....................21
Installing the Aileron Links......................22
Canopy..........................................................22
Trimming the Canopy..............................22
Mounting the Canopy..............................22
Cowling.........................................................22
Mounting the Cowl..................................22
Balancing.......................................................24
Lateral Balance........................................24
Control Throws..............................................24
Flying............................................................25
Notes.............................................................25
Trim Chart.....................................................26
Global guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does
not cover any components parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Global's liability exceed the
original cost of the purchased kit.
In that Global has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed
for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgable
help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in
your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. You can also contact the AMA at the address below.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN. 47302-9252
(800) 435-9262
www.modelaircraft.org
2
This instruction manual is designed to help you build a straight, great flying airplane. Please read
this manual thoroughly before beginning assembly of your new Ultimate Biplane. Use the parts
listing below to identify and separate all parts before beginning assembly.
** KIT CONTENTS** We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for better identification during assembly. We recommend you regroup the parts in the same manner. This will
ensure you have all of the parts required before you begin assembly and will also help you familiarize yourself with each part.
KIT CONTENTS
AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES
RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM
o {1} Fuselage w/Metal Cabane Struts, Pushrod
Housings, Wood Gear Cover (D-29), and
Horizontal Stabilizer Spacer (D-26A)
o {1} Bottom Wing w/Ailerons & Hinges
o {1} Top Wing w/Ailerons & Hinges
o {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Hinges
o {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves & Hinges
o {2} Outboard Interplane Struts
o {1} Fiberglass Cowling
o {1} Clear Canopy
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
{1}
{2}
{2}
{3}
{2}
{4}
{2}
{2}
{2}
{4}
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
Prebent Aluminum Landing Gear
Wheel Pants
60mm Diameter Wheels
4mm x12mm Machine Screws
4mm x 35mm Axle Screws
2mm x 8mm Wood Screws
4mm Flat Washers
4mm Hex Nuts
4mm Lock Nuts
4mm Nylon Spacers
o {1} Tail Wheel Wire w/Nylon Bearing
o {1} 25mm Diameter Tail Wheel
o {1} Wheel Collar w/3mm x 6mm Machine Screw
ELEVATOR CONTROL SYSTEM
{2}
{4}
{2}
{2}
{3}
{1}
{2}
{4}
{1}
{1}
Nylon Control Horns w/Nylon Back Plates
2mm x 15mm Machine Screws
600mm Nylon Pushrods
2mm x 100mm Wire Threaded Both Ends
Nylon Clevises (one w/1.5mm I.D. Hole)
Nylon Joiner Plate
2.2mm x 10mm Wood Screws
2mm Flat Washers
2mm x 20mm Machine Screw
2mm Hex Nut
2mm x 200mm Wire Threaded w/L-Bend
Nylon Clevises
Nylon Snap Keepers
Nylon Adjustable Control Horns
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
{1}
{1}
{1}
{1}
{1}
{1}
{3}
{1}
Molded Fuel Tank
Rubber Stopper
20mm Diameter Front Squash Plate
18mm Diameter Rear Squash Plate
Weighted Metal Pick-Up
Aluminum Tubes
90mm Silicon Fuel Tube
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
{4}
{8}
{4}
{2}
{2}
{2}
{1}
{1}
{2}
3mm x 16mm Machine
3mm Flat Washers
3mm Blind Nuts
4mm x 25mm Machine
4mm Flat Washers
4mm Blind Nuts
3mm x 50mm Machine
3mm x 35mm Machine
3mm Lock Nuts
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
{1}
{2}
{1}
{2}
{1}
{2}
{4}
{4}
{1}
Wing Bolt Doubler (W-24)
Wing Servo Mounting Plate (W-25)
Wing Cabane Shim (D-31)
Pushrod Supports (D-32)
Fuselage Servo Tray (D-15)
Balsa Support Rails (D-30)
35mm Clevis Retaining Tube
WING MOUNTING
MOTOR MOUNT ASSEMBLY
o
o
o
o
o
{4}
{8}
{2}
{2}
{4}
{4}
{2}
FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY
TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
Nylon Control Horn w/Nylon Back Plate
700mm Nylon Pushrod
Nylon Snap Keeper
Nylon Clevis
AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM
MAIN GEAR ASSEMBLY
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
{1}
{2}
{1}
{1}
{1}
{1}
{1}
Screws
Screws
Screw
Screw
MISCELLANEOUS
{2} Nylon Mounting Beams
{4} 3mm x 20mm Machine Screws
{16}3mm Flat Washers
{8} 3mm Lock Nuts
THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM
o {1} 1.5mm x 300mm Wire Threaded One End
o {1} Nylon Clevis w/1.5mm I.D. Hole
o {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly
3
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
{1}Hitec 4 Channel Radio w/4 Servos
{1}Dubro Foam Rubber # 513
{1}Global Fuel Line # 115923
{1}Dubro Fuel Filler Valve # 334
{1}Goldberg 1/4” White Striping Tape # 724
{1}Goldberg 1/8” Black Striping Tape # 711
{1}Coverite 21st Century Red Paint # COVR0102
{1}Coverite 21st Century Clear # COVR1265
FOR 4-STROKE ENGINE
o
o
o
o
{1}Magnum XL .52-.80 Four Stroke
{1}Magnum 2-1/2” Aluminum Spinner # 237154
{1}Propeller To Suit Engine
{1}Thunderbolt Glow Plug # 115490
FOR 2-STROKE ENGINE
o
o
o
o
o
OPTIONAL ITEMS
o {1}Williams Bros. 2-5/8” Pilot # 18500
o {1}Ernst External Charge Jack # 124
o {1}Cirrus On-Board Battery Indicator # 444762
{1}Magnum XL .46-.53 Two Stroke
{1}Pitts Style Muffler to Suite Engine
{1}Magnum 2-1/2” Aluminum Spinner # 237154
{1}Propeller To Suit Engine
{1}Thunderbolt Glow Plug # 115493
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500
Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510
Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560
Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy # 887565
Pacer Canopy Glue # PT-56
Pacer Thread Lock # PT-42
Silicon Sealer
Electric Drill
Assorted Drill Bits
Modeling Knife
Machine Oil or Vaseline
Rubbing Alcohol
Paper Towels
Straight Edge Ruler
Dremel Tool w/Assorted Bits
Robart Incidence Meter # 404
Ernst Airplane Stand # 157
Phillips Screwdriver
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Wire Cutters
Pliers
Builders Triangle
220 Grit Sandpaper
Masking Tape
Scissors
FIELD SUPPORT EQUIPMENT NEEDED
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
Magnum 12V Electric Starter (# 361006)
Magnum 12V Fuel Pump (# 237377)
Magnum Locking Glow Clip (# 237440)
Global 12V Battery (# 110171 )
Global 12V Charger (# 110270 )
Magnum Power Panel (# 237390)
Global Field Buddy Flight Box (# 233072)
Magnum 4-Way Wrench (# 237420)
METRIC CONVERSION CHART
To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = MM
1/64”
1/32”
1/16”
3/32”
1/8”
5/32”
=
=
=
=
=
=
.4mm
.8mm
1.6mm
2.4mm
3.2mm
4.0mm
3/16”
1/4”
3/8”
1/2”
5/8”
3/4”
=
=
=
=
=
=
4.8mm
6.4mm
9.5mm
12.7mm
15.9mm
19.0mm
1”
2”
3”
6”
12”
18”
4
=
=
=
=
=
=
25.4mm
50.8mm
76.2mm
152.4mm
304.8mm
457.2mm
21”
24”
30”
36”
=
=
=
=
533.4mm
609.6mm
762.0mm
914.4mm
If you should find a part missing or have questions about assembly, please call or write to the address
below:
Customer Service Center
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley, CA. 92728
Phone: (714) 963-0329
Fax: (714) 964-6236
E-Mail: globalhobby@earthlink.net
**SUGGESTION** To avoid scratching or damaging your new airplane, do not unwrap the pieces until
they are needed for assembly. Cover your workbench with an old towel or brown paper, both to protect
the aircraft and to protect the table. Keep a couple of jars or bowls handy to hold the small parts after you
open the bags.
**NOTE** Please trial fit all the parts. Make sure that you have the correct parts and that they fit and are
aligned properly before gluing! This will ensure proper assembly. Since the Ultimate Biplane is hand
made from natural materials, every plane is unique and minor adjustments may have to be made. However, you should find the fit superior and assembly simple.
o 3) With the wing in the wing saddle, align
the two marks and hold the wing securely in
place using a couple of pieces of masking tape.
BOTTOM WING MOUNTING
o
o
o
o
o
{1}
{1}
{2}
{2}
{2}
PARTS REQUIRED
Bottom Wing w/Ailerons & Hinges
Wing Bolt Doubler (W-24)
4mm Washers
4mm Blind Nuts
o 4) Remove the ailerons from the wing.
To double check that the wing is square to
the fuselage, use a ruler and measure from
each wing tip to the rear edge of the fuselage. Both measurements should be equal.
See figure # 1 below.
ALIGN THE BOTTOM WING
o 1) Place the wing into the wing saddle
making sure that the preinstalled dowel in the
leading edge of the wing fully engages the
predrilled hole in the forward bulkhead in the
fuselage. Push the wing as far forward as
possible. The leading edge should fit tight
against the bulkhead.
Figure # 1
A
o 2) Using a ruler and pen, measure and
place a mark on the centerline of the bottom
of the fuselage at the rear of the wing saddle.
Also measure and place a mark at the
centerline of the wing at the trailing edge. See
photo # 1 below.
A1
A=A1
INSTALLING THE BLIND NUTS
o 5) When satisfied with the alignment, use
a 5/32” drill bit and drill two holes through the
wing and on through the plywood wing hold
down block. The holes are located 1-1/2” out
from the centerline and 1/2” forward of the trailing edge.
Photo # 1
DRAW CENTERLINE
DRAW CENTERLINE
5
o 6) Remove the wing from the wing
saddle. Drill out only the holes in the plywood wing mounting block using a 7/32” drill
bit.
o 11) Mix up a small amount of Kwik Bond
5 Minute Epoxy and use it to glue the wing
doubler to the wing. Allow the epoxy to fully
cure.
Drilling out only these holes will allow
easier installation of the blind nuts in the
next step.
o 12) Remove the wing and drill out the
holes through the doubler using a 5/32” drill
bit. Use the holes already drilled through the
wing as a guide and drill down through the
top of the wing.
o 7) Install the two 4mm blind nuts from
underneath the plywood wing hold down
block. The blind nuts can be installed using
pliers by first removing the portion of the balsa
filler block directly above where the blind nuts
are installed. See photo # 2 below.
INSTALLING THE WING
o 13) Place the wing back into the wing
saddle. Secure the wing in place using the
two 4mm x 25mm machine screws and two
4mm washers. See photo # 3 below.
Photo # 3
Photo # 2
REMOVE
BALSA
WING BOLT
DOUBLER
INSERT BLIND
NUT FROM
BOTTOM
HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
MOUNTING
INSTALLING THE WING BOLT DOUBLER
o 8) Place the wing back into the wing
saddle, aligning the centerline marks. While
holding the wing firmly in place, set the wing
bolt doubler (W-24) in place. The rear edge
of the doubler should be just forward of the
rear edge of the wing saddle and the sides of
the doubler should be flush with the sides of
the fuselage.
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves
and Hinges
ALIGN THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
o 1) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering from over the stabilizer slot
precut in the rear of the fuselage. The slot is
located about 3” up from the bottom of the fuselage. There is a precovered wood spacer at
the end of the slot. It is not glued in and should
be removed and saved. See photo # 4 below.
o 9) While holding the doubler in place, use
a pen and draw around the doubler to outline
it onto the wing surface.
Photo # 4
o 10) Remove the doubler and using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering
from just inside the outline.
REMOVE COVERING
REMOVE BALSA
BLOCK
6
o 2) Remove the elevator halves from the
stabilizer. Using a ruler and pen, locate and
mark the centerline of the horizontal stabilizer at the trailing edge and place a mark.
Use a triangle and extend this mark, from
back to front, across the top and bottom of
the stabilizer.
MOUNTINGTHEHORIZONTALSTABILIZER
o 6) With the stabilizer held firmly in place,
use a pen and draw a line where it and the fuselage sides meet. Do this on both the right
and left sides and top and bottom of the stabilizer.
o 7) Remove the stabilizer. Using the lines
you just drew as a guide, carefully remove the
covering from between them, using a modeling knife. See photo # 5 below.
o 3) Slide the stabilizer into the slot. The
stabilizer should be pushed firmly up against
the front of the slot, leaving about 1-1/2” of
space between the trailing edge and the rear
of the fuselage.
Photo # 5
o 4) With the wing still attached to the fuselage, align the centerline mark on top of the
stabilizer with the centerline of the fuselage at
the rear. When that is aligned hold the stabilizer in that position using a T-pin and align
the horizontal stabilizer with the wing. When
viewed from the rear, the horizontal stabilizer
should be level with the wing. If it is not level,
use sandpaper and sand down the high side of
the stabilizer mounting platform until the proper
alignment is achieved. The tips of the stabilizer should also be equal distance from the tips
of the wing. See figures # 2 and # 3 below.
REMOVE
COVERING
When cutting through the covering to remove it, cut with only enough pressure
to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa structure may weaken it.
o 8) When you are sure that everything is
aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount of
Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer
to the top and bottom of the stabilizer mounting
area and to the stabilizer mounting platform on
the fuselage. Set the stabilizer in place and realign. Double check all of your measurements
once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with T-pins or masking tape and
remove any excess epoxy using paper towels and
rubbing alcohol.
Figure # 2
A
A1
Figure # 3
B
o 9) After the epoxy has fully cured, install
the precovered spacer that you removed earlier
back into the slot . Glue the spacer in place using
Kwik Bond Thick C/A. See photo # 6 below.
B1
Photo # 6
o 5) When you are satisfied with the alignment, hold the stabilizer in place with T- pins
or masking tape, but do not glue at this time.
7
REINSTALL
WOOD
BLOCK
MOUNTING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER
VERTICAL STABILIZER
MOUNTING
o 6) When you are sure that everything is
aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount
of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a
thin layer to the mounting slot in the top of
the fuselage and to the sides and bottom of
the vertical stabilizer mounting area. Set the
stabilizer in place and realign. Double check
all of your measurements once more before
the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place
with T-pins or masking tape and remove any
excess epoxy using paper towels and rubbing
alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before
proceeding.
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder and Hinges
ALIGN THE VERTICAL STABILIZER
o 1) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering from over the stabilizer slot
precut in the top rear of the fuselage.
o 2) Remove the rudder from the stabilizer.
Slide the stabilizer into the slot in the top of
the fuselage. The rear edge of the stabilizer
should be even with the rear edge of the fuselage and it should be firmly pushed down completely into the slot.
TOP WING MOUNTING
o 3) Using a pen, draw a line on each side
of the vertical stabilizer where it meets the top
of the fuselage.
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o 4) Remove the stabilizer. Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from below
the lines you drew. Also remove the covering from the bottom edge of the stabilizer. See
photo # 7 below.
{1}
{1}
{2}
{4}
{8}
{4}
{1}
{1}
PARTS REQUIRED
Top Wing w/Ailerons & Hinges
Wing Cabane Shim (D-31)
Outboard Interplane Struts
3mm Flat Washers
3mm Blind Nuts
ALIGN THE TOP WING
Set-up is extremely important in any airplane. However, wing incidence is critical in a biplane to achieve proper flight performance. Incidence is the angle the flying
surfaces flow through the air. The Ultimate
should be set with the stabilizer at 0º, the lower
wing at 0º, and the top wing at 0º or -1º incidence. The following installation procedures
explain how to achieve proper initial setup.
See figure # 5 below.
Photo # 7
REMOVE
COVERING
When cutting through the covering to remove it, cut with only enough pressure
to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa structure may weaken it.
Figure # 5
0º or -1º
o 5) Set the vertical stabilizer back in place.
Using a triangle, check to ensure that the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal
stabilizer. See figure # 4 below.
0º
0º
Figure # 4
o 1) With the bottom wing installed, set the
airplane upright in an airplane stand.
90º
We highly recommend using a stand.
They can be purchased separately or made
yourself using items found around your shop.
8
o 6) Locate and remove the covering from
over the two predrilled wing hold down holes
in the top wing. These holes are located down
the centerline of the wing. The forward hole
is located 7” in front of the trailing edge and
the rear hole is located 3-5/8” in front of the
trailing edge. Remove the covering from both
the top and bottom of the holes.
o 2) With the airplane setting in the stand,
attach an incidence meter to the horizontal stabilizer. Adjust the airplane in the stand until the
incidence meter reads 0º. See photo # 8 below.
Photo # 8
o 7) Mount the top wing to the aluminum
cabane struts using the 3mm x 50mm machine
screw in the front, the 3mm x 35mm machine
screw in the rear. Use four 3mm washers and
two 3mm lock nuts to secure the wing in place.
o 3) Use rubber bands or weights to hold
the airplane in position in the stand. It needs
to be secured so it cannot be moved during
the next few steps. After you are satisfied it
has been secured properly, recheck the stabilizer incidence to ensure it is still at 0º.
If the holes in the wing do not align with
the holes in the cabane struts loosen the
strut screws further to allow the metal parts to
adjust to the wing. The screws will be completely tightened after the wing alignment has
been set. See photo # 10 below.
Photo # 10
o 4) Remove the incidence meter from the
stabilizer and attach it to the bottom wing. The
incidence meter should read 0º as well.
If the incidence meter does not read 0º
then recheck the incidence of the stabilizer to ensure it has not moved. If you are
certain it hasn't, recheck the incidence of the
bottom wing. You should make small adjustments to the wing saddle until the incidence
meter reads 0º on the bottom wing.
SCREWS
INSTALLING THE INTERPLANE STRUTS
o 8) Locate the two outer interplane struts.
There is a top and bottom to the struts. There
are two predrilled holes in one end of each strut.
Where these two holes are located is the bottom of the strut. Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over these holes on
both sides of each strut. See figure # 6 below.
o 5) Working with the top wing, first identify the bottom surface of it. If you look
closely, two ribs in from each tip, there is a
precut slot that is 2” long and accepts the outer
interplane struts. This is the bottom of the
wing. Using a modeling knife, remove the
covering from over these two slots. See photo
# 9 below.
Photo # 9
Figure # 6
APPROXIMATE
HOLE
LOCATIONS
FRONT
BOTTOM OF
STRUT
o 9) On the top side of the bottom wing there
are two slots for the struts similar to those in the
top wing . These two slots are located just to the
outside of the strut mounting blocks in the top
side of the bottom wing. Using a modeling knife,
remove the covering from over the two slots.
REMOVE
COVERING
9
o 10) There are two predrilled holes
through each strut mounting block in the bottom wing. Using a modeling knife, remove
the covering from over these holes.
o 16) When completely satisfied with the
alignment of the top wing use threadlock on all
of the metal cabane screws and nuts and tighten
them completely to lock the wing's alignment
in place.
o 11) Install one 4mm blind nut in each of
the four holes in the strut mounting blocks. The
blind nuts should be mounted on the inside edge
of the blocks. See photo # 11 below.
o 17) Using a pen draw a line on each side
of the outer interplane struts where they meet
the bottom surface of the top wing.
o 18) Remove the top wing and outer
interplane struts. Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from the interplane struts
from just inside the lines you drew on them.
Photo # 11
P
TI
o 19) Mix up a generous amount of Kwik
Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Glue the outer
interplane struts into the TOP WING ONLY.
Before the epoxy cures, reinstall the top wing
and secure the interplane struts into the bottom
wing with the four machine screws. Allow the
epoxy to fully cure before proceeding. See
photo # 12 below.
BLIND
NUTS
o 12) Remove the top wing. Plug the two
interplane struts into the corresponding slots
in the bottom of the top wing. The predrilled
holes in the struts should be on the bottom
and the edge of the struts covered in red should
face the leading edge of the wing.
Photo # 12
o 13) Reinstall the top wing making sure
the two outer interplane struts completely engage the two slots in the top side of the bottom wing.
o 14) Secure the outer interplane struts in place
using the four 3mm x 16mm machine screws and
four 3mm flat washers. The machine screws pass
through the strut and thread into the blind nuts
installed in the mounting blocks.
BOTTOM WING
TOP WING
CONTROL SURFACE
INSTALLATION
MOUNTING THE TOP WING
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o 15) Remove the ailerons from the top
wing. Attach the incidence meter to the top
wing and check the incidence. The meter
should read either 0º or -1º.
If the incidence meter does not read 0º
or -1º then you may need to adjust the
metal cabane struts and /or shim the space
between the rear metal cabane strut and the
wing. We have provided a hardwood cabane
shim (D-31) for this purpose.
{2}
{2}
{2}
{1}
{1}
{1}
{1}
PARTS REQUIRED
Top Wing Ailerons w/Hinges
Bottom Wing Ailerons w/Hinges
Elevator Halves
Rudder
Tail Wheel Wire w/Nylon Bearing
25mm Diameter Tail Wheel
Wheel Collar w/3mm x 6mm Machine Screw
HINGE THE ELEVATOR HALVES
o 1) The C/A hinges have already been
glued into the two elevator halves. Working
with one half at a time, slide the elevator and
it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the
trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer. Slide
1 0
5 Minute Epoxy. Apply the epoxy to only
those parts of the tail wheel wire that will be
glued to the rudder, being careful not to get
any epoxy on the nylon bearing. Pack epoxy
into the hole you drilled in the leading edge
of the rudder also.
the elevator in until it is tight against the trailing edge of the stabilizer. The maximum hinge
gap should be no more than 1/32”, but there
should be about a 1/16” gap between the counterbalance section of the elevator and the tip
of the stabilizer. See photo # 13 below.
Photo # 13
o 8) Insert the tail wheel wire into the rudder.
Clean up any excess epoxy using a paper towel
and rubbing alcohol. See photo # 14 below.
STABILIZER
Photo # 14
1/32”
ELEVATOR
EPOXY
TAIL WHEEL
WIRE
o 2) With the elevator tight against the stabilizer, rotate the elevator down about 45º.
Apply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to
the exposed area of each hinge. Allow the
glue to cure for about ten minutes. Once cured,
the elevator may be stiff and difficult to move.
This is normal. Gently move the elevator up
and down about five to ten times to free it up.
EPOXY
NYLON BEARING
HINGE THE RUDDER
o 9) Using a modeling knife, remove the
covering from over the lower hinge slot and
nylon bearing slot precut in the back edge of
the fuselage. Use the rudder to help locate
the slots.
o 3) Repeat steps # 1 and # 2 for the second elevator half.
INSTALL THE TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY
glued into the rudder. Slide the rudder and
it's hinges, including the nylon bearing tab into
their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of
the vertical stabilizer and lower section of the
fuselage. Slide the rudder in until it is tight
against the trailing edge of the stabilizer. The
maximum hinge gap should be no more than
1/32”. See photo # 15 below.
o 4) Using a ruler, measure up from the bottom of the rudder at the leading edge 1-1/8”
and place a mark.
o 5) Using a 5/64” drill bit, drill a hole into
the rudder at the mark made. Using a modeling knife, cut a groove from the hole down to
the bottom of the rudder. Make the hole deep
enough for the tail wheel wire and the nylon
bearing to set flush in. See figure # 7 below.
Photo # 15
Figure # 7
NYLON
BEARING
DRILL HOLE
CUT GROOVE
1/32”
o 6) Apply oil or Vaseline to the hinge bearing to prevent epoxy from gluing the bearing
solid to the tail wheel wire.
TAIL WHEEL
WIRE
1 1
30 Minute Epoxy. Remove the rudder and
apply a thin layer of epoxy to only the tab on
the nylon bearing. Be careful not to get any
epoxy on the tail wheel wire.
The waxed paper will prevent epoxy from
gluing the torque rod to the trailing edge of
the wing.
30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the aileron torque rod. Also use a toothpick and pack epoxy into the predrilled hole
in the aileron.
o 12) Slide the rudder and it's hinges, including the nylon bearing tab into their precut
hinge slots in the trailing edge of the vertical
stabilizer and lower section of the fuselage.
With the rudder tight against the stabilizer,
rotate the rudder to one side about 45º. Apply
six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Allow the glue to
cure for about ten minutes. Once cured, the
rudder may be stiff and difficult to move. This
is normal. Gently move the rudder back and
forth about five to ten times to free it up.
o 17) Slide the aileron and it's hinges into
their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of
the wing, making sure the torque rod is firmly
seated in the precut hole in the leading edge
of the aileron. With the aileron tight against
the wing, rotate the aileron down about 45º.
Apply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to
the exposed area of each hinge. Allow the
glue to cure for about ten minutes. Once cured,
the aileron may be stiff and difficult to move.
This is normal. Gently move the aileron up
INSTALL THE TAIL WHEEL
o 13) Install the 25mm diameter tail wheel
on the tail wheel wire. Secure the tail wheel
in place using one wheel collar and 3mm x
6mm machine screw. The tail wheel should
turn without binding.
o 18) Repeat steps # 14 - # 17 for the second aileron.
HINGE THE BOTTOM WING AILERONS
glued into the two ailerons. Working with one
aileron at a time, slide the aileron and it's
hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the wing, making sure the torque
rod is firmly seated in the precut hole in the
leading edge of the aileron. Slide the aileron
in until it is tight against the trailing edge of
the wing. The maximum hinge gap should be
no more than 1/32” and the tip of the aileron
should be flush with the tip of the wing.
HINGE THE TOP WING AILERONS
glued into the two ailerons. Working with
one aileron at a time, slide the aileron and it's
hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the wing. Slide the aileron in until it is tight against the trailing edge of the
wing. The maximum hinge gap should be no
more than 1/32” and the tip of the aileron
should be flush with the tip of the wing.
o 20) With the aileron tight against the
wing, rotate the aileron down about 45º. Apply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the
exposed area of each hinge. Allow the glue
to cure for about ten minutes. Once cured,
the aileron may be stiff and difficult to move.
This is normal. Gently move the aileron up
o 15) When satisfied with the fit, remove the
aileron and slide a small piece of waxed paper
between the aileron torque rod and the trailing
edge of the wing. See photo # 16 below.
Photo # 16
WAXED
PAPER
o 21) Repeat steps # 19 and # 20 for the
opposite aileron.
TORQUE
ROD
1 2
ALIGNING THE MOTOR MOUNT
ENGINE MOUNTING
o
o
o
o
o
o 5) The engine is mounted sideways on the
firewall. Using a ruler and pen, measure and
draw a vertical centerline on the firewall.
PARTS REQUIRED
{2} Nylon Mounting Beams
{16}3mm Flat Washers
{8} 3mm Lock Nuts
o 6) Measure down from the top of the fuselage 1-1/2” and draw a horizontal line on
the firewall. See photo # 18 below.
MOUNTING ENGINE TO MOTOR MOUNT
Photo # 18
o 1) Using a clamp or a vise, align the two
motor mount beams and clamp them together.
The beam halves are universal and the webbing should face the outside edges. See photo
# 17 below.
1-1/2”
1-1/2”
Photo # 17
o 7) With your engine still installed on the
motor mount beams, use a ruler and measure
the width between the predrilled mounting holes
in the motor mount. This distance will vary
depending on the brand and size of the engine
you have chosen. See photo # 19 below.
o 2) Mark the locations of the four engine
mounting holes on the beams using a pencil.
For the engine to align properly with the front
of the cowling, it is important that the front
edge of the engine's drive washer be 4-7/8”
forward from the rear edge of the mounting
beams.
Photo # 19
MOUNTING
BEAM
MOUNTING
BEAM
D = Distance
Between Predrilled
Holes In Beams
(Will Vary
Depending Engine
Used)
o 3) When satisfied with the alignment of
the engine, remove the beams from the
clamp and drill 1/8” holes through the
mounting beams at the four engine mounting hole locations.
o 8) Divide the measurement found in step
# 7 in half. Measure this resulting distance
and draw one horizontal line above and below the horizontal centerline.
o 4) Mount the engine to the mounting
beams using the four 3mm x 25mm machine
screws, eight 3mm flat washers, four 3mm lock
nuts. Tighten the screws and nuts completely.
o 9) On the two horizontal lines you just
drew, measure and place marks 3/8” to the
left and 1-1/4” to the right of the vertical
centerline (looking at the firewall). See photo
# 20 below.
Photo # 20
If using an engine equipped with a remote needle valve we recommend
mounting the needle valve to the engine prior
to installing the engine on the motor mount
beams.
1 3
D
o 10) Hold the motor mount assembly up
to the firewall and double check that the four
intersecting lines line up with the four predrilled holes in the motor mount.
o 2) Using 220 grit sandpaper carefully
smooth each end of the two tubes. This will
prevent the fuel line from being cut.
o 3) Push the two aluminum tubes through
the rubber stopper until 1/2” protrudes from
the front of the stopper. Slide the 20mm diameter front squash plate over the tubes at the
front of the stopper and slide the 18mm diameter rear squash plate over the tubes at the rear
of the stopper. Insert the 3mm x 20mm machine screw into the center hole in the front
squash plate, then screw it through the stopper and into the rear squash plate. Do not completely tighten the screw at this time.
The motor mount is offset to the
airplane's left side (looking from the rear)
to compensate for the right thrust built into
the firewall. Offsetting the engine will allow
the spinner to line up with cowl ring when it
is installed later.
MOUNTING THE ENGINE TO FIREWALL
o 11) Using a 1/8” drill bit, drill the mounting holes through the firewall for the motor
mount.
o 12) Mount the motor mount assembly to
the firewall using the four 3mm x 20mm machine screws, eight 3mm flat washers and four
3mm lock nuts. Tighten the screws and nuts
completely. See photo # 21 below.
o 4) Carefully bend the longer of the two
tubes up at a 45º angle. This tube is the vent
tube. When the stopper assembly is installed
in the tank, the top of the vent tube should rest
just inside the bubble in the top of the tank.
Photo # 21
o 5) Slide the silicon fuel tubing, with the
weighted pickup attached to one end, onto the
fuel pickup tube. See photo # 22 below.
Photo # 22
RUBBER
STOPPER
VENT TUBE
FUEL TANK
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
{1}
{1}
{1}
{1}
{1}
{1}
{3}
{1}
FRONT
SQUASH
PLATE
PARTS REQUIRED
Molded Fuel Tank
Rubber Stopper
20mm Diameter Front Squash Plate
18mm Diameter Rear Squash Plate
Weighted Metal Pick-Up
Aluminum Tubes
90mm Silicon Fuel Tube
REAR SQUASH
PLATE
FUEL TUBING
PICK-UP
o 6) Test fit the stopper assembly into the
tank. It may be necessary to remove some of
the flashing around the tank opening using a
modeling knife. If flashing is present, make
sure none falls into the tank.
FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY
o 7) With the stopper assembly in place the
weighted pickup should be about 3/8” away
from the rear of the tank and move freely inside the tank. The vent tube should be inside
the bubble in the tank, but not rub against the
tank. Adjust the tubes accordingly.
o 1) The fuel tank assembly incudes 3 different length aluminum tubes. Discard the
shortest of the three. It will not be used.
The 50mm length tube is used for the fuel
line pickup and the 80mm tube is used
for the vent/pressure line.
1 4
the stopper assembly tighten the 3mm x 20mm
machine screw until the rubber stopper expands and seals the tank opening. Do not overtighten the assembly as this could cause the
tank to split.
(FOUR STROKE SET UP)
Photo # 23
Enlarge hole in firewall
to allow clevis to pass
through.
NYLON
CLEVIS
PUSHROD
WIRE
FUEL TANK INSTALLATION
o 9) Slide the fuel tank into the fuel tank
compartment in the front of the airplane. The
bubble in the tank should face the top of the
fuselage and the tank should rest on the balsa
fuel tank support floor. The stopper assembly
should also engage the predrilled hole in the
firewall.
THROTTLE
ARM
THROTTLE
ARM
Photo # 24
PUSHROD
WIRE
NYLON
CLEVIS
o 10) Secure the fuel tank in place using
foam rubber. Seal any gaps between the stopper assembly and the firewall using silicon
sealer. Be careful not to get any sealer inside
the aluminum tubing.
(TWO STROKE SET UP)
MAIN LANDING GEAR
THROTTLE LINKAGE
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1} 1.5mm x 300mm Wire Threaded One End
o {1} Nylon Clevis w/1.5mm I.D. Hole
INSTALLING THE THROTTLE LINKAGE
o 1) Thread the nylon clevis onto the
threaded end of the 300mm pushrod wire.
This clevis has a 1.5mm I.D. hole that
matches the diameter of the pushrod wire.
All other clevises in the kit use a larger diameter hole for larger wire.
{1}
{1}
{2}
{2}
{3}
{2}
{4}
{2}
{2}
{2}
{4}
PARTS REQUIRED
Prebent Aluminum Landing Gear
Wood Gear Cover (D-29)
Wheel Pants
60mm Diameter Wheels
4mm x12mm Machine Screws
4mm x 35mm Axle Screws
4mm Flat Washers
4mm Hex Nuts
4mm Lock Nuts
4mm Nylon Spacers
INSTALLING THE GEAR BRACKET
o 1) Install the prebent aluminum gear
bracket using the three 4mm x 12mm machine screws. The gear bracket fits into the
gear slot just ahead of the bottom wing opening. Three 4mm blind nuts have been
preinstalled. Tighten the screws completely.
See photo # 25 below.
o 2) Locate and drill a 3/32” hole through
the firewall for the throttle pushrod wire to
pass through. The hole should be level with
the throttle arm, but moved over enough to
clear the fuel tank. Be careful not to drill into
the fuel tank.
Photo # 25
GEAR BRACKET
o 3) Slide the pushrod wire through the hole
and into the fuselage. Attach the clevis to the
throttle arm. Use a pair of pliers and make the
necessary bends in the wire so it does not bind
when moved from idle to the full throttle position. See photos # 23 & # 24 at top right.
MOUNTING
SCREWS
1 5
5 Minute Epoxy. Use a couple of small dabs
of epoxy to glue the balsa gear cover (D-29)
onto the aluminum gear, flush with the bottom of the fuselage.
o 5) Slide two 4mm nylon spacers over the
axle screw and up against the wheel. Thread
one 4mm hex nut onto the axle screw.
o 6) Tighten the hex nut against the nylon
spacers as tight as it can be, but still allow
the wheel to spin free on the axle. Secure
the nut in place by carefully applying a couple
of drops of Kwik Bond Thick C/A to the
threads. Allow the C/A to fully cure. See
photo # 27 below.
There are three holes predrilled through
the block that allow the screws to be removed should the gear need servicing. You
can leave these holes covered by the covering
or remove the covering from over them now
using a modeling knife.
Photo # 27
INSTALLING THE WHEEL PANTS
o 1) Working with one wheel pant at a time,
use a Dremel Tool and remove the plastic that
covers the wheel opening on the bottom of
the wheel pant.
NYLON
SPACERS
Look carefully at each side of the wheel
pant and you will notice a molded dimple.
One dimple is about 1/8” higher on one side
than the other. If you will be flying off a hard
surface we recommend you drill out the dimple
that is higher. If flying off of grass we recommend you drill out the dimple that is lower.
This will raise the wheel pant higher on the
axle and give more clearance between the
wheel pant and the ground.
HEX NUT
o 7) Slide one 4mm washer over the axle
screw and up against the hex nut. Carefully
slip the wheel and axle assembly into the
wheel pant. The axle screw should slip firmly
into the slot in the wheel pant and the flat
washer should be positioned inside the wheel
pant.
o 8) Slide the axle bolt through the predrilled 4mm hole in the aluminum gear
bracket and secure in place using one 4mm
lock nut. Tighten the lock nut completely,
at the same time making sure the hex nut does
not come loose. Double check that the wheel
does not bind when rotated.
o 2) Using a 5/32” drill bit, drill out only
the one dimple that you choose.
o 3) Using a modeling knife, cut a slot from
the hole down to the wheel pant opening. See
photo # 26 below.
Photo # 26
AXLE SCREW
o 9) Repeat steps # 1 - # 8 for the opposite
side.
CUT SLOT
ADJUSTING THE WHEEL PANTS
o 10) With both wheels and wheel pants installed on the gear bracket, set the airplane on
it's wheels on a level surface. Adjust the wheel
pants so the rear portion of the wheel pant is
level with the ground. Double check that both
wheel pants are level with each other.
REMOVE
COVER
o 4) Slide one 60mm diameter wheel onto
one 4mm x 35mm axle screw. The wheel
should go on with flat side of the hub first.
1 6
o 11) When satisfied with the alignment,
secure the wheel pants in place by installing
two 2mm x 8mm wood screws through the
two predrilled holes in the gear bracket and
into the side of the wheel pant. Do this for
both wheel pants. See photo # 28 below.
o 3) Hold the two plates in place and trace
around them using a pen. Remove the plates
and using a modeling knife, remove the covering from just inside the lines.
o 4) Mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 5
Minute Epoxy and glue the plates in place.
Allow the epoxy to cure completely.
Photo # 28
o 5) Install the servo using the wood screws
provided with your radio system. Drill 1/16”
pilot holes through the plates before installing the screws. This will help prevent the
wood from splitting.
WOOD
SCREWS
AILERON SERVO
o
o
o
o
o
{2}
{2}
{2}
{2}
{2}
INSTALLING THE AILERON LINKAGE
o 6) Thread one nylon adjustable control
horn onto each aileron torque rod. Thread
them on until the are 7/8” above the top surface of the wing. See figure # 8 below.
PARTS REQUIRED
Nylon Clevises
Nylon Snap Keepers
Wing Servo Mounting Plate (W-25)
Nylon Adjustable Control Horns
Figure # 8
INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVO
ADJUSTABLE
CONTROL HORN
o 1) Install the rubber grommets and brass
collets onto your servo. Test fit the servo into
the precut servo hole in the top side of the
lower wing. The output shaft should be pointing towards the leading edge of the wing.
7/8”
o 7) Thread one nylon clevis onto each of
the two 2mm x 85mm threaded rods with Lbends.
Because the size of servos differ, you may
need to adjust the size of the precut opening. You may also need to use a modeling
knife and cut a groove to allow room for the
servo wire to exit the hole.
o 8) With the servo centered, install one
dual takeoff servo arm onto the servo. The
arm should be installed so it is parallel with
the trailing edge of the wing.
o 2) Remove the servo and position the two
servo mounting plates (W-25) on the wing.
The plates should be centered from side to side
and the inside edge should be even with the
servo opening. See photo # 29 below.
o 9) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape,
taped between the ailerons and the trailing
edge of the wing, to hold the two ailerons in
neutral.
Photo # 29
o 10) Snap the clevises onto the adjustable
control horns. With the servo arm and ailerons centered, push the L-bends down through
the holes in the servo arm. Adjust the length
of the wires by turning the nylon clevises in
or out until the correct length is achieved. Hold
the wires in place using two nylon snap keepers. See photo # 30 at top right.
MOUNTING
PLATE
MOUNTING
PLATE
1 7
Photo # 30
SNAP
KEEPER
servos should be pointing towards the front
of the fuselage. See photo # 32 below.
SERVO
ARM
PUSHROD
WIRE
Photo # 32
CLEVIS
R
CONTROL
HORN
E
E = ELEVATOR
T = THROTTLE
R = RUDDER
install the servo arm set screw and remove the
masking tape from the ailerons.
T
Because the size of servos differ, you may
need to adjust the size of the precut openings. You may also need to use a modeling
knife and cut a groove to allow room for the
servo wires.
RADIO INSTALLATION
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1} Fuselage Servo Tray (D-15)
o {2} Balsa Support Rails (D-30)
o 4) Install the servos using the wood
screws provided with your radio system. Drill
1/16” pilot holes through the tray before installing the screws. This will help prevent the
wood from splitting.
INSTALLING THE SERVO TRAY
o 1) Trial fit the servo tray (D-15) in position inside the fuselage. The tray should rest
on top of the preinstalled balsa supports glued
to the fuselage sides. The front edge of the
tray should be 1-1/4” behind the front bulkhead. See photo # 31 below.
INSTALLING THE RECEIVER & BATTERY
o 5) Plug the servo leads into the receiver.
Looking from behind the airplane the left servo
is the for throttle, the center servo is for elevator and the right servo is for rudder. Plug
the aileron extension and switch that came with
your radio system into the receiver as well.
Photo # 31
o 6) Wrap the receiver and battery pack in
foam rubber to protect them from vibration.
Position them under the servo tray, using extra foam rubber to hold them in place.
FRONT
EDGE
o 2) When satisfied with the fit, remove the
tray and mix up a generous amount of Kwik
Bond 5 Minute Epoxy. Glue the tray in place
using the epoxy. Before the epoxy sets, glue
the two balsa support rails (D-30) in place.
They are positioned on top of the servo tray,
directly above the lower support rails. Allow
the epoxy to cure fully before proceeding.
Because of the length of the Ultimates
nose, the receiver and battery should be
positioned at the rear of the servo compartment. This will be especially true if using a
four stroke engine.
INSTALLING THE SERVOS
INSTALLING THE SWITCH
o 3) Install the rubber grommets and brass
collets onto your remaining three servos. Test
fit the servos into the precut servo holes in the
servo tray. The output shaft of the center servo
should be pointing towards the back of the
fuselage. The output shaft of the two outer
o 7) Mount the switch to the fuselage side
at the rear of the servo compartment. Use the
faceplate of the switch itself to locate at make
the necessary cutouts and holes.
1 8
o 8) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill a hole
through the side of the fuselage for the antenna to exit. Route the antenna out the fuselage and secure it to the vertical fin using a
rubber band. See figure # 9 below.
Figure # 9
o 5) Remove the excess throttle pushrod wire
using wire cutters. See photo # 33 below.
CONNECTOR
Photo # 33
PUSHROD
WIRE
SERVO
ARM
CUT
RUBBER
BAND
ANTENNA
MODIFIED SERVO
ARM
o 6) Test the movement of the throttle
pushrod. Full forward stick and full forward
trim should result in the carburetor barrel
opening completely. Full down stick and full
forward trim should result in the approximate
idle setting. Full down stick and full down
trim should result in the carburetor barrel closing fully.
THROTTLE LINKAGE
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly
INSTALLING THE THROTTLE CONNECTOR
o 1) Install one adjustable servo connector
through the second hole out from the center
of one servo arm. You may have to enlarge
the hole in the servo arm to accommodate the
servo connector. Remove the excess material
from the servo arm using wire cutters. See
figure # 10 below.
Figure # 10
o 7) When satisfied that the pushrod linkage is adjusted correctly and no binding is
present, install the servo arm set screw.
RUDDER PUSHROD
SET SCREW
PARTS REQUIRED
SERVO
CONNECTOR
SERVO ARM
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
NUT
After installing the adjustable servo connector apply a small drop of Kwik Bond
Thin C/A to the nut. This will prevent the
connector from loosening during flight.
{1}
{2}
{1}
{1}
{1}
{1}
{1}
{1}
Nylon Control Horn w/Nylon Back Plate
700mm Nylon Pushrod
2mm x 85mm Threaded Wire w/L-Bend
Nylon Snap Keeper
Nylon Clevis
Pushrod Support (D-32)
INSTALLINGTHERUDDERCONTROLHORN
o 1) The centerline of the rudder control horn
is located on the left side of the rudder (looking
from behind) 1-3/8” up from the bottom of the
rudder. Position the control horn so the clevis
attachment holes are directly in-line with the
hinge line. The control horn should also be parallel with the hinge line. See figure # 11 below.
o 2) Turn on the radio system. Check to
ensure that the throttle servo output shaft is
moving in the correct direction.
o 3) Slide the adjustable servo connector/
throttle arm assembly over the end of the throttle
pushrod wire. Position the throttle stick and
the throttle trim at their lowest positions.
Figure # 11
o 4) Manually push the carburetor barrel
fully closed. Attach the servo arm to the servo
angled back about 45º from center. With the
carburetor barrel fully closed, tighten the set
screw in the adjustable servo connector.
1 9
a 3/32” drill bit and the control horn as a guide
and drill the mounting holes through the rudder.
o 10) Slide the pushrod back into the
pushrod housing. Snap the clevis onto the rudder control horn and use a couple of pieces of
masking tape to hold the rudder in neutral.
o 3) Mount the control horn to the rudder
by inserting the 2mm x 15mm machine screws
through the control horn mounting base,
through the rudder and into the backplate.
Tighten the screws, but do not overtighten
them. You do not want to crush the wood.
o 11) Locate a long servo arm and using
wire cutters, remove all but one of the arms.
Install the L-bend in the 85mm wire into the
outer hole in the servo arm. Secure the wire
in place using one nylon snap keeper.
INSTALLING THE RUDDER PUSHROD
o 12) With the rudder and rudder servo in
neutral, install the servo arm onto the servo.
The arm should be positioned perpendicular
to the fuselage sides.
o 4) Thread the 2mm x 120mm threaded
wire into one end of the 700mm nylon
pushrod. For safety, thread the wire no less
than 5/16” into the pushrod.
o 13) Using a pen, place a mark on the nylon rudder pushrod where the tip of the wire
overlaps it. Use a modeling knife and cut off
the nylon pushrod 5/16” ahead of the mark.
This will leave enough space so the threaded
wire can thread into the pushrod at least 5/16”.
o 5) Thread the nylon clevis onto the opposite end of the 2mm x 120mm threaded wire.
It should be threaded no less than 5/16” onto
the wire also.
o 6) Using a modeling knife remove the
covering from over the rudder pushrod exit
slot. Looking from the back of the airplane,
the slot is located on the left side of the fuselage, 6” forward of the rudder hinge line and
1-1/4” below the horizontal stabilizer.
o 14) Thread the wire into the pushrod.
You can thread it in further or back it out to
achieve the correct length.
masking tape from the rudder. See photo #
35 below.
o 7) Insert the plain end of the nylon
pushrod into the fuselage from the back. Snap
the clevis onto the rudder control horn. Move
the rudder back and forth to ensure there is no
binding. See photo # 34 below.
Photo # 35
CONTROL
HORN
PUSHROD
WIRE
SERVO
ARM
Photo # 34
PUSHROD
SUPPORT
CLEVIS
SNAP
KEEPER
PUSHROD
WIRE
PUSHROD HOUSING
o 16) Move the rudder back and forth.
There may be some flex present in the pushrod
just before it gets to the rudder servo. If so,
glue one pushrod support (D-32) between the
pushrod housing and the servo tray using a
small amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy.
See photo # 35 above.
o 8) Remove the pushrod from the pushrod
housing. Using a ruler and pen, measure forward on the pushrod housing 4” from where
the pushrod housing enters the servo compartment from the rear bulkhead.
o 9) Using a modeling knife, cut off the
pushrod housing at this mark.
2 0
o 4) Using a 3/32” drill bit, drill a hole
through the center of the nylon joiner plate.
Slide a 2mm washer onto the 2mm x 20mm
machine screw. Slide the screw through the
center hole of the nylon joiner plate.
ELEVATOR PUSHROD
PARTS REQUIRED
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
{2}
{4}
{2}
{2}
{3}
{1}
{2}
{4}
{1}
{1}
{1}
600mm Nylon Pushrods
Nylon Clevises (one w/1.5mm I.D. Hole)
Nylon Joiner Plate
2.2mm x 10mm Wood Screws
2mm Flat Washers
2mm Hex Nut
Pushrod Support (D-32)
o 5) Slide a second 2mm washer onto the
machine screw and then thread on the 2mm
nut. Tighten the nut completely and secure it
in place using Kwik Bond Thin C/A. Let the
C/A cure completely and double check to ensure the screw and nut do not move.
INSTALLINGTHEELEVATORCONTROLHORNS
We don't recommend using any types of
thread lock or C/A accelerators. The
chemicals in these items can destroy the nylon parts.
o 1) The centerline of the elevator control
horns are located on the bottom side of each
elevator half, 1” out from the fuselage sides.
Position the control horns so the clevis attachment holes are directly in-line with the hinge
line. The control horns should also be parallel
with the hinge line. See figure # 12 below.
o 6) Slide one 2mm washer over two
2.2mm x 10mm wood screws. Slide the wood
screws through the two outer holes in the nylon plate and thread them into the two 600mm
nylon pushrods. See photo # 36 below.
Figure # 12
Photo # 36
PUSHROD
TUBES
NYLON
PLATE
MACHINE
SCREW
a 3/32” drill bit and the control horns as a guide
and drill the mounting holes through the elevator halves.
WOOD
SCREW
NUT
We highly recommend installing the two
wood screws using Kwik Bond 5 Minute
Epoxy to help prevent any possible chance of
them pull out during flight.
o 3) Mount the control horns to the elevator halves by inserting the 2mm x 15mm machine screws through the control horn mounting bases, through each elevator half and into
the backplates. Tighten the screws, but do not
overtighten them. You do not want to crush
the wood.
INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR PUSHROD
o 7) Thread one nylon clevis with 1.5mm
I.D. hole onto the end of the 2mm x 20mm
machine screw.
INSTALLING THE PUSHROD JOINER
o 8) Using a modeling knife remove the
covering from over the two elevator pushrod
exit slots. Looking from the back of the airplane, the slots are located on each side of the
fuselage, 6” forward of the rudder hinge line
and 1” below the horizontal stabilizer.
The elevator control system uses two
pushrods which are connected together
just before they reach the elevator servo. See
figure # 13 below.
Figure # 13
PUSHROD
TUBES
2.2mm x 10mm
WOOD SCREW
NYLON
PLATE
2mm x 20mm
MACHINE SCREW
o 9) Using a ruler and pen, measure forward on both pushrod housings 4” from
where the pushrod housings enter the servo
compartment from the rear bulkhead.
2mm WASHER
2mm
WASHER
2 1
o 10) Using a modeling knife, cut off the
pushrod housings at this mark.
o 19) Move the elevator halves up and
down. There may be some flex present in
the pushrod just before it gets to the elevator
servo. If so, position one pushrod support
(D-32) between the two pushrod housings
and the servo tray. Using a small amount of
Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy glue the housings to the support and the support to the tray.
o 11) Slide the nylon pushrods into the
pushrod housings and out the exit slots.
o 12) Locate a long servo arm and using
wire cutters, remove all but one of the arms.
With the elevator servo in neutral, install the
servo arm onto the servo. The arm should be
positioned perpendicular to the fuselage sides.
AILERON LINKS
PARTS REQUIRED
o 13) Snap the clevis through the outer hole
in the servo arm.
o
o
o
o
o
o 14) Thread one clevis onto one end of
each 2mm x 100mm threaded wire.
{4}
{8}
{2}
{2}
{2}
Nylon Clevises
Nylon Snap Keepers
INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORNS
o 1) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut
the four control horns to shape. See figure #
14 below.
o 15) Snap one clevis/wire assembly onto
each elevator control horn. Use a couple of
pieces of masking tape to hold each elevator
half in neutral.
Figure # 14
o 16) Working with one half only, use a pen
and place a mark on the nylon elevator pushrod
where the tip of the wire overlaps it. Use a
modeling knife and cut off the nylon pushrod
5/16” behind the mark. This will leave enough
space so the threaded wire can thread into the
pushrod at least 5/16”.
o 2) The control horns are located both on
the top and bottom ailerons. They should be
positioned 6-1/4” in from the tip of each aileron. The control horns for the top wing mount
on the bottom of the ailerons and the control
horns for the bottom wing mount on the top
of the ailerons. Mount the control horns with
the clevis attachment holes facing the back of
the airplane. See photo # 38 below.
o 17) Thread the wire into the pushrod.
You can thread it in further or back it out
to achieve the correct length. Repeat steps
# 14 - # 17 for the opposite side.
masking tape from the elevator halves. See
photo # 37 below.
Photo # 38
TRAILING
EDGE
Photo # 37
PUSHROD
SUPPORT
SERVO
ARM
CLEVIS
CONTROL
HORN
all four control horns, use a 3/32” drill bit and
the control horns as a guide and drill the
mounting holes through the ailerons.
JOINER
ASSEMBLY
2 2
o 3) Using a pen, place a mark on both sides
of the canopy at the front and back. Place the
marks where the canopy meets the bottom of
the black stripe on the fuselage sides.
o 4) Mount the control horns to the ailerons by inserting the 2mm x 15mm machine
screws through the control horn mounting
bases, through the ailerons and into the
backplates. Tighten the screws, but do not
overtighten them. You do not want to crush
the wood.
o 4) Using a 3/32 drill bit, drill four
mounting holes through the canopy only.
Locate two holes on each side, near the cockpit. Use the photo below for reference. See
photo # 40 below.
INSTALLING THE AILERON LINKS
o 5) Plug in the aileron servo to the receiver and install the top and bottom wings.
Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to
hold the top wing ailerons in neutral. Turn
on your radio system and center the bottom
wing ailerons.
Photo # 40
MOUNTING
HOLE
o 6) Thread a nylon clevis onto the threaded
end of each 200mm wire. Slide the L-bend of
each wire through the lower hole in the top
aileron control horns. Secure the wires in place
using two nylon snap keepers.
PLACE
MARK
PLACE
MARK
o 5) Secure the canopy in place using four
2mm x 10mm wood screws threaded into the
fuselage.
o 7) With all four ailerons in neutral, adjust the nylon clevis and snap it through the
top hole in the lower control horns. See
photo # 39 below.
o 6) Remove the canopy. Using a modeling knife or Lexan Canopy Scissors, trim the
canopy across the bottom of each side at the
marks you made earlier. Install the optional
aftermarket pilot at this also.
Photo # 39
PUSHROD
WIRE
MOUNTING
HOLE
NYLON
CLEVIS
o 7) To give the canopy a better appearance
on the fuselage, we suggest you paint the portions that overlap the top of the fuselage. We
used Coverite 21st Century Red # COVR0102.
Remember to lightly sand any portion that will
be painted so the paint sticks. Use white and
black trim tape to match the area of the canopy
that overlaps the sides of the fuselage.
SNAP KEEPER
CONTROL
HORN
CANOPY
COWLING
PARTS REQUIRED
PARTS REQUIRED
o {1} Clear Canopy
o {4} 2mm x 10mm Wood Screws
o {1} Fiberglass Cowling
o {4} 3mm x 6mm Wood Screws
TRIMMING THE CANOPY
MOUNTING THE COWL
o 1) Using a modeling knife or Lexan
Canopy Scissors, cut out the canopy along the
molded scribe lines.
o 1) Remove the carburetor and muffler
from the engine. Use plastic or masking tape
to cover the carburetor, muffler and glow plug
openings in the engine to prevent dust from
entering.
o 2) Trial fit the canopy. When you have
adjusted the canopy so it is straight, hold it in
place using a couple pieces of masking tape.
2 3
o 2) Using a Dremel Tool with a sanding
drum attachment, carefully open the two air
inlets in the front of the cowl. Trim away a
small amount at a time so you don't remove
too much material. See photo # 41 below.
Photo # 41
o 7) Remove the cowl and enlarge the holes
in only the cowl using a 5/64” drill bit. Reinstall the cowl and secure it in place using the
four wood screws. See photo # 42 below.
Photo # 42
MAKE
CUT OUT
(BOTH SIDES)
MOUNTING HOLE
LOCATIONS
o 3) Slide the cowl onto the fuselage. Install your spinner backplate onto the engine and secure it in place. Use the
backplate to align the front of the cowl.
The spinner backplate diameter should
match the outer diameter of the spinner ring
on the cowl, not fit inside it. It may also
be necessary to trim the bottom of the cowl
so it does not interfere with the landing
gear.
o 8) Locate and the areas of the cowl that
need to be removed for access to the high and
low speed needle valves, glow plug, muffler
and if necessary, engine head clearance.
o 9) Remove the cowl and make these cutouts using a Dremel Tool with a sanding drum
attachment. Holes for the needle valves can
be cut using a drill bit. We highly suggest the
use of a Dubro Fuel Filler Valve to fuel the
airplane. This should be mounted to the cowling at this time also.
o 4) With the front of the cowl aligned
with the spinner backplate, double check
that the cowl lines up with the fuselage.
When satisfied with the fit, use a couple of
pieces of masking tape to hold the cowl
firmly in position.
o 10) Install your muffler (stock or Pitt's
Style) and connect your fuel and pressure lines
to the fuel tank and fueling valve.
If you are using a two stroke engine with
a stock muffler a 1” muffler extension
will be necessary. No extension is necessary
if using a four stroke engine or a two stroke
engine with an aftermarket Pitt's Style muffler.
o 5) The cowl is held in place using four
3mm x 6mm wood screws threaded into the
firewall. Two screws are located on the
top, one on each side towards the bottom
of the cowl. Use a ruler and pen to locate
and mark the mounting screw locations.
o 11) Once you are satisfied with the fit of
the cowl and all access holes have been cut,
remove the cowl and paint it with Coverite
21st Century Gloss Clear # COVR1265 to prevent raw fuel from damaging the paint.
o 6) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill four pilot holes through the cowl and about 1/2”
into the firewall at the locations you
marked.
o 12) After the clear coat has dried, connect
the fuel lines to the muffler, fuel filler valve
and carburetor. Reinstall the cowl and secure
it in place. Install the prop and spinner.
2 4
LATERAL BALANCE
BALANCE
After you have balanced your Ultimate
on the C.G. you must laterally balance
it. Doing this will help the airplane track better in vertical maneuvers and loops.
o 1) It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly. Improper balance will cause
your plane to lose control and crash. The
center of gravity is located 4” back from
the leading edge of the top wing, at the
center section. This location is recommended for initial test flying and trimming.
There is a 3/8” margin forward and aft, but
it is not recommended that the center of gravity be located any further back than 4-3/8”.
Balance the Ultimate right side up with the
fuel tank empty.
o 1) Turn the airplane upside down. With
the wings level carefully lift the airplane by
the engine crankshaft and the tail wheel
bracket. This may require two people to make
it easier.
o 2) If one side of the wing falls, that side
is heavier than the opposite. Add small
amounts of lead weight to the bottom side of
the lower wing. Follow this procedure until
the wings stay level when you lift the airplane.
o 2) Mount the wings to the fuselage.
Using a couple of pieces of masking tape,
place them on the bottom side of the top
wing 4” back from the leading edge, at the
center section.
CONTROL THROWS
o 1) We highly recommend setting up the
Ultimate using the control throws listed below. We have listed control throws for both
initial test flying/sport flying and aerobatic
flying.
o 3) Place your fingers on the masking tape
and carefully lift the plane.
o 2) Turn on the radio system and with the
trim tabs on the transmitter in neutral, center
the control surfaces by making adjustments
to the clevises. The servo arms should be centered also.
o 4) If the nose of the plane falls, the plane
is nose heavy. To correct this first move the
battery pack further back in the fuselage. If
this does not correct it, stick small amounts
of weight on the fuselage under the horizontal stabilizer. If the tail of the plane falls, the
plane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the
battery and receiver forward or stick weight
onto the firewall or inside the front section of
the cowl. When balanced correctly, the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down
when you lift it up with your fingers.
o 3) When the elevator, rudder and aileron
control surfaces are centered, use a ruler and
check the amount of the control throw in each
surface. The control throws should be measured at the widest point of each surface!
INITIAL FLYING/SPORT FLYING
Ailerons:
Elevator:
Rudder:
3/16” up
7/16” up
1” right
3/16” down
7/16” down
1” left
AEROBATIC FLYING
Once you have flown and trimmed the
Ultimate, the balance point can be moved
forward or aft 3/8” to change the flight performance. Moving the balance point back will
cause the Ultimate to be more responsive, but
less stable. Moving the balance point forward
will cause the Ultimate to be more stable, but
less responsive. Do not fly the Ultimate beyond the recommended balance range or an
uncontrollable crash could result!
Ailerons:
Elevator:
Rudder:
5/16” up
3/4” up
1-1/2” right
5/16” down
3/4” down
1-1/2” left
Do not use the aerobatic settings for initial test flying or sport flying.
2 5
o 4) By moving the position of the clevis at
the control horn toward the outermost hole, you
will decrease the amount of throw of that control surface. Moving the clevis toward the control surface will increase the amount of throw.
NOTES
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_____________________________________________
FLYING
The Ultimate is designed for those pilots who
are experienced in flying sport models. It is
in no way a trainer. If you do not feel comfortable that you are able to test fly the airplane don't hesitate to ask someone for some
help getting it tested and trimmed out. Typically aerobatic airplanes, such as the Ultimate,
require some different flying techniques that
you might not be familiar with. It is very important to let the airplane get up to flying speed
before lifting off. Pulling the plane off the
ground too fast will cause the airplane to stall
and crash. You should allow the plane to roll
out until the tail is completely off the ground
and flying. Allow the airplane to roll out about
50 feet more and gently pull it off the ground
and into a shallow climb out.
In the air, the plane flies like any other sport
aerobatic plane. Loops, rolls, low passes and
most all other maneuvers are all possible.
Because of the sometimes excessive control
throws used for aerobatics you must be aware
of high speed stalling. This is when the airplane is at full power and too much up elevator is input at once. It causes the airplane to
snap. To prevent this, make sure the elevator
is set up to our recommended test flying and
sport flying settings. When set up to aerobatic settings, be gentle on the elevator.
When it is time to land always bring the airplane in with a small amount of power. It is
not a good habit to just chop the throttle and
dive the airplane to the ground. Just like the
real airplanes, gradually reduce power along
with altitude and speed. When you are about
2-3 feet off the ground, reduce power to idle
and gently let the airplane settle onto the runway. Be careful not to over control.
2 6
TRIM CHART
After you have test flown and done the initial trim changes to the aircraft, use the Trim Chart below to
begin trimming your airplane. Following and adhering to this chart will result in the ability to diagnose
trim problems and correct those problems using the simple adjustments shown below. Making these
observations and related corrections will result in a truer, better flying airplane.
TRIMFEATURE
MANUEVER
OBSERVATION
CORRECTION
Control Centering
Fly general circles and
random maneuvers.
Try for hands off straight
and level flight.
Readjust linkages so Tx
trims are centered.
Control Throws
Fly random maneuvers.
A) Too sensitive, jerky
controls.
B) Not sufficient control.
If A) Change linkages to
reduce throws.
If B) Increase throws.
Engine Thrust Angle*
From straight flight,
chop throttle quickly.
A) Airplane continues
level path for short
distance.
B) Airplane pitches nose up.
C) Airplane pitches nose
down.
If A) Thrust is correct.
Center of Gravity
Longitudinal Balance
Yaw**
Lateral Balance
Aileron Rigging
If B) Decrease downthrust.
If C) Increase downthrust.
From level flight, roll
to 45º bank and
neutralize controls.
A) Continues in bank for
moderate distance.
B) Nose pitches up.
C) Nose drops.
Into wind, do inside
loops using only elevator.
Repeat tests doing
outside loops from
inverted entry.
A) Wings level throughout.
B) Yaws to right in both
inside and outside loops.
C) Yaws to left in both
inside and outside loops.
D) Yaws to right on inside,
and left on outside loops.
E) Yaws left on inside, and
right on outside loops.
If A) Trim is correct.
If B) Add left rudder trim.
A) Wings are level and
plane falls to either side.
B) Falls off to left in loops.
Worsens as loops tighten.
C) Falls off to right in loops.
Worsens as loops tighten.
Into wind, do tight
inside loops.
With wings level, pull
to vertical climb and
neutralize controls.
A) Climb continues along
same path.
B) Nose tends to go to
inside loop.
C) Nose tends to go to
outside loop.
If A) Trim is good.
If B) Add nose weight.
If C) Remove nose weight.
If C) Add right rudder trim.
If D) Add left aileron trim.
If E) Add right aileron trim.
If B) Add weight to right
wing tip.
If C) Add weight to left
wing tip.
If B) Raise both ailerons
very slightly.
If C) Lower both ailerons
very slightly.
*Engine thrust angle and C.G. interact. Check both.
**Yaw and lateral balance produce similar symptoms. Note that the fin may be crooked. Make certain both elevator
halves are even with each other and produce the same amount of control throw. Right and left references are from the
rear of the plane, as if you were in the cockpit.
2 7
Since you love your new Ultimate Biplane, now how
about this Global ARF performance airplane to
go along with it?
SPECIFICATIONS:
Length...............47.25in
Span.......................52in
Area.................570sq.in
Flying Weight...5-5.5lbs
Engine.....45-53 2-stroke
52-60 4-stroke
Radio..............4 channel
ü All Wood Construction
ü Prebent Aluminum Landing Gear
ü Prepainted Fiberglass Cowling
ü Prepainted Molded Wheel Pants
ü Clear Molded Canopy
ü Lightweight and Fast for Big Performance
2 8
go along with it?
SPECIFICATIONS:
Length....................42in
Span.......................52in
Area.................362sq.in
Flying Weight...5-5.5lbs
52-60 4-stroke
Radio..............4 channel
ü Custom Spinner
ü Molded Wheel Pants
ü Incredible Aerobatic Performer
2 9
go along with it?
SPECIFICATIONS:
Span.......................59in
Area.................620sq.in
Empty Weight......3.5lbs
52-60 4-stroke
Radio...........4-5 channel
ü Ready for Retracts
ü Prepainted Wheel Pants for Fixed Gear
ü Big Pattern Performance In a Midsize Package
3 0
** PRODUCT EVALUATION SHEET **
Telling us what you like and don't like determines what model kits we make and how we make
them. We would appreciate it if you would take a few minutes of your time to answer the following questions about this kit and your modeling interests. Simply fold this form on the dotted lines,
seal with tape and mail it to us. Do not use staples and make sure our address faces out.
1.) Kit: Ultimate Biplane .46 (123820)
2.) Where did you learn about this kit?
o Magazine Ads
o Friend
o Hobby Shop
o Other
7.) Was any of the model's assembly difficult
for you? If yes, please explain.
__________________________________
__________________________________
__________________________________
3.) What influenced you the most to buy this kit?
8.) What did you like most about this kit?
o Magazine Ads
o Price
o Assembly Manual o Parts Fit
o Type of Model
o Box Art
o Hardware Supplied oOther_________
o Recommendation o Other__________ __________________________________
__________________________________
4.) Did you have any trouble understanding
the written instructions? If yes, please
9.) What did you like least about this kit?
explain.
o Assembly Manual o Parts Fit
o Yes
o No
o Hardware SuppliedoOther_________
__________________________________
__________________________________
__________________________________
__________________________________
__________________________________
__________________________________10.) Are you satisfied with the finished model?
5.) Did you have any trouble understanding
o Yes
o No
any of the photographs in the instructions?
If no, please explain.
If yes, please explain.
_________________________________
o Yes
o No
_________________________________
__________________________________
_________________________________
__________________________________
__________________________________11.) How does this kit compare to similar kits
__________________________________
by other manufacturers?
o Better Than
o As Good
6.) Were any of the kit parts:
o Not as Good
o Damaged
o Wrong Size
o Missing
o Wrong Shape 12.) Please list any other comments or
suggestions you have.
If you checked any of the boxes above,
_________________________________
please list the parts below:
_________________________________
__________________________________
_________________________________
__________________________________
_________________________________
3 1
Fold along dotted line
Place
Stamp
Here
Global Hobby Distributors
Attn: Customer Service Department
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley, CA. 92728
Fold along dotted line
3 2

Global ARF Ultimate Biplane

Transcription

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