Quest GT5 wing

Transcription

Quest GT5 wing

North Wing Quest GT5 Wing Manual
Manufacturer:
3904 Airport Way
East Wenatchee, WA 98802
USA
Phone :
Fax :
Website:
Version 2.1
North Wing UUM, Inc.
+ 509-886-4605
+ 509-886-3435
ultrikes@northwing.com
Printed: February 1, 2012
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Table of Contents
1.!
2.!
3.!
4.!
5.!
About This Manual ................................................................................................................. 3!
About the Quest GT5 Trike Wing ......................................................................................... 3!
Technical Specifications/ Compliance Verification Sheet ..................................................... 3!
Re-Assembly from Shipping Crate......................................................................................... 4!
Setup Procedure ...................................................................................................................... 6!
5.1!
Attaching Your Wing to a Trike ................................................................................... 13!
6.! Fold Down Procedure ........................................................................................................... 15!
7.! About Flying the Quest GT5 Wing....................................................................................... 16!
7.1!
General Flying Practices ............................................................................................... 16!
7.2!
Flying Speeds................................................................................................................ 17!
7.2.1! Selected Flying Speed Definitions............................................................................ 17!
7.2.2! Typical Speeds .......................................................................................................... 17!
7.3!
Adjusting Vc: Center of Gravity (CG) Adjustment ...................................................... 17!
8.! Inspections ............................................................................................................................ 18!
8.1!
Preflight Inspection Checklist....................................................................................... 19!
8.2!
Annual and 100-Hour Inspections ................................................................................ 20!
8.3!
Extended Period Inspection .......................................................................................... 22!
9.! Wing Maintenance: Quest GT5 wing ................................................................................... 23!
9.1!
Wing Cleaning .............................................................................................................. 23!
9.2!
Sail Tears Less than 1” Long ........................................................................................ 23!
9.3!
Sail Tears Greater Than 1” Long .................................................................................. 24!
9.4!
Wing Tuning ................................................................................................................. 24!
9.5!
Sail Removal from Frame: Quest series ....................................................................... 32!
9.6!
Replacing Sail on Frame............................................................................................... 36!
9.7!
Leading Edge Replacement .......................................................................................... 39!
9.8!
Keel Tube Replacement................................................................................................ 44!
9.9!
Crossbar Replacement .................................................................................................. 45!
9.10! Front and Rear Pitch Cables (Lower Rigging) Replacement ....................................... 46!
9.11! Owner Replaceable Wing Fittings and Hardware ........................................................ 48!
9.12! Non-Owner Replaceable Wing Fittings and Hardware ................................................ 49!
10.! Transportation and Storage ................................................................................................... 50!
11.! Wing Retirement................................................................................................................... 50!
12.! Limitation of Liability .......................................................................................................... 51!
13.! Owner’s Maintenance Log.................................................................................................... 51!
Appendix A: Preflight Inspection Checklist ................................................................................. 52!
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1.
About This Manual
Most everything the pilot needs to know about the Quest GT5 Wing from North Wing is
contained within this manual.
It is recommended that you thoroughly familiarize yourself with the entire manual before you fly
your new wing for the first time.
It is very important that you become familiar with the set-up procedure for the Quest GT5, or it
is possible to damage it. Please take the time to look through the appropriate set-up sections
before attempting assembly. Having an experienced dealer show you how to set your new wing
up is also a good way go.
Most importantly, you are reminded that this manual is not intended as an instructional device on
how to fly weight shift trikes. Rather, as the purchaser of this product, in the spirit of our selfregulated sport, you are responsible for bringing with you the expertise required to safely operate
this vehicle. If your trike is a Light Sport aircraft you need the proper Light Sport documentation
to fly your Trike legally. By purchasing or operating this product, you assume complete liability
for its safe operation. North Wing offers this owner’s manual simply to assist you with the
features particular to this model of trike wing regarding it’s unique: assembly, flying
characteristics, care and maintenance, and technical specifications.
For those looking to advance or refine their particular flying skills, consult the fine line of
instructional books dedicated to ultralight skill-building written by Dennis Pagen, or the factory
can recommend any number of professional flight training centers.
Please practice safe aviation!
2.
About the Quest GT5 Trike Wing
The Quest GT5 is a intermediate to advanced trike wing. You should have a minimum of 30 hrs
of flight experience in weight shift trikes with an instructor’s approval before flying a Quest
GT5.
Congratulations on the purchase of your new North Wing Quest GT5. We believe it to be the
finest available high performance recreational trike (flex) wing in the market today.
The Quest GT5 achieves exceptional low speed performance and superb handling for many
reasons. Its sail body and cut are composed of a carefully selected and applied field-proven
synthesis of the latest materials that is matched to the leading edge curve. The sail body features
a leading edge pocket internally reinforced with a mylar sheet insert. Drag is reduced with a
faired side struts. These features combine to ensure a good usable flight performance.
3.
Technical Specifications/ Compliance Verification Sheet
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These specifications are intended only as a guideline for determining whether or not a given
wing conforms to current production specifications or is in the configuration as originally
designed. However, meeting these specification does not assure the wing will perform as
designed or as originally built due to other factors.
Weight, without cover bags
125 lbs
Leading Edge tube
a) Distance from the nose plate anchor hole to:
1. Crossbar attachment hole
2. Rear most sail attachment point
b) Outside diameter at:
1. Nose
2. Crossbar
3. Rear sail attachment point
Crossbar
a) “Pin to Pin”
b) Outside diameter
121.5”
210” +- 1/2“
2.375”
2.5”
2.25”
107.5” + -1/4”
2.5”
Keel tube - least and greatest distance from front of keel:
a) Crossbar hinge pin plates
(Must be resting on keel)
b) Trike hang point (from front of keel)
43” + - 1! ”
55.5” + - 1!”
Sail chord length
a) 3’ from root
b) 3’ from tip
70”
35.00”
Total span
31.5’ +- 2”
Placard and test flight sticker location:
On Left X-Bar
Weight range for wing (Minimum / Gross)
725 / 1060 lbs
4.
Re-Assembly from Shipping Crate
The wings are shipping in what is called a short pack form. This means the outer section of the
leading edges are removed to make a much shorter, more convenient length, and less expensive
length that is also less susceptible to shipping damage. Consequently, before setting up your
wing, the leading edges need to be re-assembled following the four steps below.
1. Carefully undo the crate packing so as not to damage the wing inside. ie: Do not cut into
the box. With the wing out of the box find the base tube, ribs and rear leading edges. The
leading edges have either red or green tape on them. Green is for the right side and red is
left. With the wing on its back, slide the rear sections into the sail from the tip.
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REMEMBER, now that the wing is on its back, the left and right sides will be reversed as
you look from the tips of the wing toward the nose. Be careful to guide the sprogs through
the sail so they do not snag on the sail.
2. Turn the sprogs so they point towards the tip. Slide the rear section into the front section
until the holes line up. Be sure the eye bolt is facing UP since the wing is on its back.
Install bolt from the bottom up, wrap the mylar protector around the LE and put over the
bolt, now thread the nut on over the mylar. Tighten snug (just to the point of no slack). Do
not over tighten or you may oval the tube.
3. Now install the 3/8” eye bolt through the X-bar channel bracket and into the X-bar. The
sequence of washers etc can be seen in the picture below: 1/4” thick black plastic spacer,
mylar, bottom side of channel bracket, spacer tubing, top side of channel bracket, white
nylon washer (between the bracket and X-bar), X-bar. On the inside of the X-bar you will
have the half moon spacer, stainless steel fender washer, standard washer, then the castle
nut and safety.
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4. Install the tip sail strap (yellow) over the end of the trim tip cap. Make sure that the strap is
in the 1” wide slot. See picture. Note: You can take the sail nose screws out of the
grommet to make it easier to put the webbing over tip. After the webbing is over tip cap, at
the nose run a string from grommet to grommet and around the nose plate and tighten line
to pull tension on the leading edges. Now you are ready to set up your new wing. After the
wing is completely set up and you have put in the nose ribs, you can reinstall the nose
screws.
5.
Setup Procedure
The best value that this chapter can provide the owner is to share some techniques and
procedures that other people using the Quest GT5 have discovered; things that will minimize
wear or even prevent needless damage from occurring. Use this information to extend the life of
your wing.
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1. Assemble The Control Frame Place the wing on the ground with it’s nose pointing 120
degrees to the wind (if the wind is over 5 MPH) and with the zipper facing upward.
Unzip the cover bag; remove the ribs from the nose area and the side struts. Undo the
wing ties and assemble the control frame. Check the rigging to ensure that it is not
tangled.
2. Roll The Wing Over Stand wing on the control frame (do not attach the lower front
wires at this time).
3. Remove Bag and Spread Wings Ensure that the keel stand “stinger” is in place.
Carefully walk each wing out to 3/4 of full open position. Leave enough slack in the sail
so that during the next step the ribs may slide in with minimal resistance. Do not
remove the wing tip bags at this point. They will protect the wing tips from ground
damage/dirt until the wing it tensioned in a later step.
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4. Insert Inboard Ribs Install all but the last three curved ribs; white ribs go to the right,
black to the left. Insert the ribs from root to tip with gentle pressure, moving the sail’s
trailing edge up or down as necessary to help the front of the ribs up over the crossbar
and leading edge. Keep the rear tip close to the ground so the curved front glides
smoothly in the pocket. DO NOT FORCE the ribs into place, especially the first two
ribs (in particular when the sail is crispy new). To put the first ribs in, lift the keel off the
ground about 20”. To open the flip tip on the end of each rib, be sure to squeeze the
plastic tip with your fingers to release the catch. When closing the tip, you can simply
pull it into position without squeezing the tip. Opening the tip without squeezing the
catch will break the tip.
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New style flip tips
(insert into trailing edge)
Flip and click closed
5. Pre-Tension the Crossbar Walk the leading edge tubes out the rest of the way without
forcing them. Find the crossbar tensioning nylon line at the center of the sail.
Sometimes the loop of this line needs to be put back through the center hole in the sail.
Also, check to be sure the nylon line is properly routed on the wheel of the small pulley
on the cross bar junction plate. Sometimes it slips onto the side of the wheel pulley.
Pull on the nylon line to pull back the cross bar. Pull back until the nylon rope loop can
be hooked into the spring catch on top of the rear keel tube. This opens the wing spars
enough to hook up the side struts. DO NOT FLY THE WING LIKE THIS! You must
use the main restraint cable to fly.
6. Install Struts Place struts under wing on each side. There is a left and right strut and are
marked. The strut also should be marked top. This is the side that has a 5/16” clevis pin.
First hook up the lower end of the strut (1/4” pin) then the top. Make sure you install the
safety rings and make sure that the safety rings are not sprung open even a small
amount.
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Old Corner Hardware (recommend replacing)
New Corner Hardware
7. Hook Up Cross Bar Main Cable Remove the pull back nylon line from the spring catch.
Pull the line all the way back until the main restraint cable shackle can be clipped into
the spring catch. Make sure the wing tip yellow strap is in the slot in the tip cap before
pulling the nylon line back.
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8. Insert Remaining Ribs With the struts installed and the wing tensioned, the wing tips
will be off the ground. Remove the tip bags and insert the remaining 3 tip ribs on each
side. The straight end tip strut (rib) on each side does not have rib pockets. The open
end of these ribs must be inserted onto the rib hooks that are riveted to the leading edge
about 2 feet from the end of the leading edge. Then the flip tip on the trailing edge of
the rib can be put in the pocket.
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9. Locate Sprogs Into Position (If it is light winds you can put the wing on its nose for
this) Open the zipper at each sprog location, rotate the four sprogs out to center of the
transversal batten. Now put the Velcro loop around the end of the sprogs. Leave Velcro
loops slightly loose (approximately 1/2” gap).
10. Install Under Surface Ribs Install the under surface ribs from longest to shortest. Make
sure the back ends are inserted back into the slot at the rear.
11. Attach Front Flying Wires Ensure that all the lower rigging is untangled first. Position
the ring on the latch; install bolt, nut & safety pin.
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12. Position The Nose Ribs And Nose Cone Pull the nose down to eye level so you can
put the nose rib on the 1/4” stud located front top of keel tube. With nose cone in hand
start with the two top Velcro tabs and gently pull the nose cone down and around the
nose plate to connect the two bottom Velcro tabs on the nose cone to its corresponding
Velcro sewn on the under surface below the keel.
Now make sure all zippers are closed after you per-flight your wing and before you fly.
Cover bag, pads, and ties can fold into one of the bag ends for storage.
Before you attach the wing to the trike be sure to perform a thorough preflight as described on
the following pages.
5.1 Attaching Your Wing to a Trike
North Wing provides two types of pivot block assemblies; a U-pivot block and a double plate
block. Both are shown in the figures below. Either assembly can be used to attach your trike to
the GT5 wing. The U-pivot block stays attached to the wing upon disassembly, while the double
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plate assembly stays attached to the trike when disassembled. Both use split ring collars to
adjust the position of the hang block on the keel tube, thereby adjusting the CG of the trike.
Either assembly can be ordered from North Wing to attach a GT5 wing to another
manufacturer’s trike such as an Airborne, Air Creation or Aero trike.
U-Pivot Block:
The black nylon bushing is a split sleeve that is slipped on the keel tube initially. Then the Ubracket is assembled in the sequence shown below. There are two holes for the trike attachment
bolt. In general, the center hole is typically used unless there is some interference from the trike
mast of another manufacturer’s trike. Then the off-center hole can be used. The second hole can
also be used to adjust the CG of the trike if desired. The primary CG adjustment is the
positioning of the split ring collars on either side of the pivot block.
Plate Pivot Block:
The plate pivot block consists of a nylon bushing that is slipped over the keel tube and two side
plates that are bolted together during assembly. Only the top bolt is removed to attach the wing
to the trike. The other three bolts stay in place when disassembled and the plates remain on the
trike mast.
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6.
Fold Down Procedure
To fold down your Quest GT5, just reverse the set up procedure steps as described in Section 4.
Included below are a few guidelines to follow which will save you time and prevent wear or
damage when folding your wing.
•
Tip bags: Remember to remove last 4 ribs, install the wing tip bags and un-zip access
zippers for upper wing strut before releasing the crossbars cable.
•
Folding wings in: Always fold the wings together symmetrically, bringing both leading
edges back together at the same time. If you don’t have someone helping you, then bring
in one side about " of the way, then bring the other in about ! way, incrementally
bringing in one side then the other in three to four incremental steps. CAUTION: If you
meet resistance folding in the wings, check that the crossbar tensioning line or cable are
free to run forward through the cable hole in the center of the sail. If the cable snags on
the sail, it can easily tear the sail when you fold the wings in.
•
Folding sail: The important thing here is to simply get your sail body neatly stowed
inside the Mylar reinforced leading edge pocket. Some owners prefer to alternate
folding, then rolling, their sail to minimize potential permanent creases developing over
time.
•
Attaching sail ties: Fasten the first tie just aft of the rear cable (or X-bar latch. By
keeping the keel tube outside of the tie, it will make it easier to organize the control bar in
this area after the wing is flipped over. The forward tie is located splitting the distance
between the control frame apex and nose plate. Pull the leading edge pocket up over the
top of the wing so the tops of the LE mylar pockets are touching and/or overlapped. The
third sail tie goes about 2 feet inboard from the wing tips.
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7.
About Flying the Quest GT5 Wing
7.1 General Flying Practices
Operations and limitation for the Quest GT5 wing on the Light Sport Scout X-C or the Sport X2
is available in the POH manual. The wing performance placard bearing test flight information
and operating limits is located on the wing’s left crossbars. Special care should be taken to note
the operating limitations, which are clearly stated on the flight operation placard. As with any
wing, special care should be taken to note the operating limitations, which have been ascertained
by careful testing.
Flight operations should not exceed those laid down in the operating limits specified within this
manual. No wing is totally safe; there are inherent risks involved in flying a trike wing. It is
quite possible to fly the Quest GT5 beyond its operating limits using deliberate flying skills. Do
not do this!
The responsibility for safety rests ultimately with the pilot alone who must decide whether the
wing they are about to fly has been properly maintained, and is in air worthy condition.
•
FLIGHT OPERATIONS: Should be limited to non-aerobatics maneuvers -- those in
which the pitch angle will not exceed either 30 degrees nose up or nose down of the
horizon and in which the bank will not exceed 60 degrees.
•
WARNING: The owner and operator must understand that, due to the inherent risk
involved in flying such a unique vehicle, no warranty is made or implied of any kind
against accidents, bodily injury, or death. Operations such as aerobatics maneuvers or
erratic pilot technique may ultimately produce equipment failure and are strongly
discouraged.
•
NEVER FLY FASTER THAN 90 MPH: To verify the speeds you are achieving, you
should fly with an accurate airspeed indicator. During certification testing, test pilots
found that it would be possible to exceed Vne during smooth acceleration. The most
typical cause of exceeding Vne is rapid acceleration performing aerobatics maneuvers
and steep dives. This wing is not tested to perform such maneuvers, and they should not
be attempted.
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7.2 Flying Speeds
There are a number of important flying speeds you should know for your Quest wing. Some of
these speeds change depending upon which trike carriage you are using, where the center of
gravity (CG) is set, weight being carried, and engine/propeller combination. Additional
information about air speeds is provided in the POH for standard North Wing configurations.
For this manual, typical numbers and their importance for some of the more critical speeds is
given in the list below.
7.2.1 Selected Flying Speed Definitions
VA -
Maneuvering Speed – the indicated airspeed above which the pilot should not make full
or abrupt control movements
VC -
Design cruise speed based on CG setting (Trim speed) The indicated airspeed at which
the aircraft remains in a stabilized condition without pilot input (hands off). This changes
depending up loading and CG positioning. Trim speed can be adjusted for desired speed
and handling by moving the trike forward (speed up) or back (slow down) on the keel
tube of the wing.
VNE - The indicated airspeed that the aircraft is never to exceed for structural reasons
VS - Stall Speed – the indicated airspeed at which an uncontrolled downward pitching motion
of the aircraft occurs and sufficient lift to maintain level flight is no longer possible. Stall
occurs when the wing reaches its critical angle of attack. However, that may occur at
different speeds depending upon loading, attitude, power setting, etc.
7.2.2 Typical Speeds
VA VC VNE VS VS -
75 mph
55-65 mph
85 mph
Do not make fast or full control movements at or above this speed!
Do not exceed this speed in any operation. The Quest GT5, even
when flown in its lightest wing loading, can exceed 85 mph.
40 mph @ Gross weight
37 mph @ 700 lbs
At gross load the Quest GT5 may stall as high as 44mph depending on your trim setting, loading,
and tuning.
7.3 Adjusting Vc: Center of Gravity (CG) Adjustment
The Quest GT5 wing likes to fly between 55 to 65 MPH at hands off trim. This is where the trim
is set during factory test flight. As mentioned above, the CG of the trike can be shifted forward
and aft, thereby changing the cruise speed, VC. However, it is important to keep the CG within
the range specified below to avoid undesirable flight characteristics and difficult handling.
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The trike center of gravity (CG) is adjusted by moving the trike hang point forward or aft on the
keel tube. The range is measured by the distance from the front edge of the front retaining collar
to the front tip of the keel tube (not nose bracket). See the sketch below.
In its forward most position, the front collar is a distance of 54” from the front of the keel tube.
The pivot block assembly may be moved rearward a maximum of 2.5” resulting in a
measurement from the keel tube tip to the front collar of 56.5”.
The hang point is changed by loosening the split collar bolts evenly about 3 turns each with a "”
T-handle Allen wrench. This should be enough to slide the collars to the desired position.
Note! It is helpful to have the wing nose pointing up when moving the hang point forward and
the wing nose pointing down when moving the hang point rearward. This will allow the wing
weight to help slide it in the pivot block assembly with little manual force. If the wing does not
move easily with a little help, rock the base tube left and right (as if turning) a few inches while
the nose is leaning in the desired direction until the wing settles against the new position of the
retaining collar. Move the other retaining collar up against the pivot block and tighten. The total
gap between the collars and the pivot block should be less than 1/8”. Tighten the collar bolts
EVENLY. DO NOT tighten just one collar bolt completely and then the other. This will distort
and possibly damage the keel tube. This can be checked by confirming that the gaps between the
split-collar ends are equal.
8.
Inspections
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There are essentially four levels of inspection that may apply to your aircraft:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Pre-flight inspection
Annual inspection
100-hour inspection
Extended period inspection
8.1 Preflight Inspection Checklist
A thorough preflight procedure is mandatory with all aircraft, and must be done prior to every
flight…even if someone else just landed with the aircraft and reported no problems. This is your
first line of defense against any unknown damage or degradation due to age, wear, or hostile
environmental conditions such as weather, birds, mice, and sun exposure. The best technique is
common-sense pattern. A detailed Pre-flight check list is given in Appendix A for convenient
print out. Put a copy in your trike and use it before every flight. The FAA recognizes two
acceptable approaches to use a pre-flight checklist. The pilot can read each item and check that
point one at a time, or the pilot can follow the “common-sense” pattern, then refer to the check
list to assure nothing was overlooked. There is some evidence that the latter results in a better
pre-flight because it is not as prone to accidentally skipping an item in the list. The pre-flight
checklist in Appendix A starts at the nose of the wing, then moves down the left side leading
edge then back to the keel tube along the trailing edge. This sequence is then repeated on the
right side. Then the checklist moves to the connections and critical points along the keel tube
such as the haul back cable, nose cables, crossbar connections, and downtube connections. It
finishes the wing pre-flight by stepping back and looking at the wing as a whole and checking
the top of the wing for damage. After a few times through this pattern, you will be able to step
through it smoothly and then refer back to the checklist to assure nothing has been overlooked.
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8.2 Annual and 100-Hour Inspections
The Annual Inspection or 100-Hour Inspection supplements the pre-flight inspection that should
be done prior to each flight. That is, the Annual or 100-hour inspection addresses more depth and
looks at possible wear or aging events that can occur over a longer period of time. Since this
inspection may be done by another person other than the owner or pilot, the inspection list
includes checks from the pre-flight list as well. If problems are identified by the inspection that
should have been identified by the pilot during pre-flight checks, the pre-flight procedure should
be modified to assure all points are being checked.
All S-LSA and E-LSA aircraft must undergo an annual condition inspection. An S-LSA must be
inspected by a qualified Repairman with at least a Maintenance rating (LSR-M). This requires
satisfactory completion of an FAA approved 104-hour Repairman-Maintenance class for Weight
Shift Control. In addition, anyone with an A&P certificate with Rotax Line Service Training
may perform the inspections. An E-LSA aircraft can be inspected by someone with the above
qualifications, or by the owner IF he has completed and passed a 16 hour inspection course,
AND has received his Repairman Light Sport Aircraft certificate with an authorization for his
specific aircraft from his local FSDO.
For E-LSA and S-LSA aircraft used for non-commercial operation, an inspection is required
every 12 months. For S-LSA aircraft used for commercial training or towing, an inspection is
required every 100 hours of operating time in addition to the annual condition inspection. The
checklist for these inspections is the same and is given below. This list incorporates all the
applicable items required by FAR 43, Appendix D.
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North Wing Annual and 100-hour Inspection Check List
GT5
Pass
Fail Perform the following checks on the wing
REPLACE ALL BOLTS THAT ARE IN QUESTION OF WEAR.
1) Wing fabric for tears greater than 1” long (25mm), are within 1“ of a seam,
run off the edge of the material, and abrasions that have weakened the fabric.
These require professional repair. See Wing Repair section.
2) Fabric for tears smaller than 1” that are not within 1” of a seam and do not
run off the edge of the material. These can be repaired with sail repair tape.
3) Tip webbing or any breaks or tears in webbing
4) All zippers for smooth operation, full range operation, secure inter-locking at
start end, and sound stitching
5) Test fabric (top side of wing) for strength (UV damage) using a UV test
panel from the top surface or a Bettsometer. Annual testing with a
Bettsometer is recommended for wings exposed to UV on a frequent basis or
typically long exposure periods. Use a 1.2 mm diameter needle. Check
tensioned sail for 1360 grams pulling upward.
6) Remove all ribs and check for damage and symmetry against the template
provided by North Wing
7) Rib tensioning: Check leech line cords on ribs for wear and proper tension,
or flip tips at end of ribs for cracks or not latching in place
8) Wing strut attachment bolts tightened to “snug fit” and no visible wear on
attachment pins. Remove pins and check for wear. Lightly lubricate.
9) Front and rear pitch control wires for stretch of 1/8” or more (See
Specifications for factory length), kinks, broken strands, corrosion, slipped
position at nico press, elongation or kinks in thimbles, and hardware
attachments
10) CROSS BAR tensioner cable and pulley assembly for broken strands, kinked
thimbles, worn attachment hardware and center pivot bolt. . This may
require removal of bolts to check for hole wear.
11) Cross bar connection plate bolts not worn and safety wired
12) Sprogs for firm attachment and any bends. Check for bent ball joint.
13) Nose plate bolts and swan hook tightened to “snug fit”
14) Nose cone velcro grip is not weak
15) Position lights (if applicable) firmly attached
16) Leading edges, keel tube, cross bars, down tubes, and base tube for dents,
bends, or wear at bolt holes. This may require removal of bolts to check for
hole wear.
17) All stitching for breaks and separation of sewn material. NOTE! Be sure to
look at stitching inside sail between top and lower surfaces. Stitching can be
damaged by mice and not detected until too late.
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8.3 Extended Period Inspection
Since the GT5 is a double surface wing, many of the wing elements and connections are inside
the double surface and less accessible than on the Mustang or other single surface wings.
Although the inspection procedure and check list addresses all known potential degradation and
damage mechanisms for the GT5 wing, it is recommended that the sail be removed every 3 years
or 300 hours to assure a better evaluation of all check points inside the wing. The procedure for
sail removal is given in Section 9.5. If you have not done this before, you may want to have it
done by a North Wing dealer.
With the sail off the airframe, you can more thoroughly perform all of the inspection points listed
for the annual inspection above.
Additionally, you should inspect inside the tubes for corrosion. If discoloration indicating that
corrosion is present, you will need to arrest this process immediately. We have tested and
approved boiled linseed oil (commonly found in most hardware stores) as an effective
coating/film to apply on the inside wall surface of the tubes. Clean the tube first, allowing it to
dry, then apply the linseed oil.
Inspect the entire inner sail body, and in particular examine the rib pockets for wear points,
especially at their stops at the front of each pocket.
It is recommended that you replace the lower cables every 5 years even if you have only 100
hours. MANDITORY REPLACMENT AT 500 HRS.
WHEN REPLACING PARTS OR INSPECTING NEVER RE-USE A NYLOCK NUT.
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9.
Wing Maintenance: Quest GT5 wing
The Quest GT5 will require very little in the way of maintenance if you care for it properly in
your day-to-day use. Following are some general points to follow in maintaining your new wing
which will help ensure the safety of your flying and the performance retention of your wing; we
suggest you follow this maintenance schedule faithfully -- your ongoing care will pay off in the
future.
9.1 Wing Cleaning
Skill Level:
Owner and higher
Tools:
Damp cloth, pail, soft brush
Materials:
Water and possibly mild detergent, aluminum polish/cleaner, WD40
Task Description:
The sail fabric should be cleaned regularly with a soft damp cloth. If the wing is exceptionally
dirty, it can be washed with a mild detergent only. Keep detergent washing to a minimum.
Acetone or alcohol can be used to remove stubborn stains without harming the sail. However,
rinse thoroughly with water after cleaning with these chemicals. Because of the acid in their
system, bug grime should be removed immediately to prevent long term deterioration of the sail.
To renew the luster of Dacron, you can use the product called “Sail Bright” available from
marine hardware stores. Use as directed.
All cables can be cleaned with a soft damp cloth. The plastic coating on the wing cables can be
cleaned with WD40 or household cleaner if necessary.
Wing struts are anodized and can be cleaned with a soft damp cloth, or with a mild detergent. If
placards, such as the “EXPERIMENTAL” placard are attached to the strut, be careful not to
scrub the strut to avoid removing or damaging the placards.
Other exposed aluminum tubes, keel tube, cross bars, down tubes, base tube, leading edges, and
ribs can be cleaned with a soft damp cloth or a mild detergent. In some cases it may be desirable
to polish these tubes with a mild aluminum polishing cloth and compound.
Silicone spray can be used on zippers to minimize friction and prevent bending or breaking
zipper pulls. However, if you do not wipe off excessive silicon application, the fluid will attract
dust and dirt.
Due in particular to the problems associated with silicon attracting foreign material, we
recommend against the practice of using silicon on your wing’s ribs. Clean, dry ribs are the best
ways to prolong the life of the high wear area of the sail rib pockets. Probably the best way to
prolong those rib pockets under adverse conditions is to wipe off the ribs with a clean dry cloth
prior to each insertion.
9.2 Sail Tears Less than 1” Long
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Skill Level:
Owner and higher
Tools:
Scissors
Parts:
Adhesive sail repair cloth from sail repair shop or aviation materials
supplier
Task Description:
Sail tears up to 1” in length can be repaired using an adhesive sail repair cloth provided the tear
in NOT within 1” of a seam or an edge of the sail. Most sail color can be reasonable matched or
coordinated. The patch should extend at least 1” in all directions from the tear.
Follow these steps for small sail repairs:
1. Prepare the surface where the patch will be applied by washing it with a damp cloth and
letting it dry thoroughly If the patch area feels contaminated with any substance, try a
mild detergent followed by thorough rinsing with clean water and drying. You can also
use alcohol or acetone to clean the area.
2. Cut the patch material to the required size. Since this task is only approved for tears up
to 1” long, the maximum patch size should be 2” wide by 3” long. Rounding the corners
of the patch will reduce the tendency of the patch to peel off or snag on something.
3. Remove the backing from the patch and apply patch to torn area.
4. Using a smooth hard material as a backer board under the patch area, roll the patch with a
small roller such as a wall paper seam roller.
The wing can be flown immediately after applying an adhesive patch.
9.3 Sail Tears Greater Than 1” Long
Skill Level:
Factory Repair or North Wing Approved Sail Repair Shop
Tools:
Not applicable
Materials:
Dacron sail material in several colors
Task Description:
Sail tears longer than 1”, or tears that are within 1” of an edge or seam must be repaired by a
certified sail repair shop or returned to North Wing for repair. In most cases, the sail must be
removed from the frame and shipped to the sail repair shop. For instruction on sail removal, see
Section 4.2.5.
9.4 Wing Tuning
Skill level:
Owner and higher
Tools:
Philips screw driver
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Parts:
Leading Edge Shims if necessary
Task Description:
This task can be complicated. If you do not feel comfortable in your understanding of the
following instructions, do not attempt to adjust the wing. The performance of the wing can be
significantly affected if excessive adjustments, or improper adjustments are made.
Prior to starting any wing adjustments, check the following items which may cause any number
of problems.
1. Check for proper wing assembly. i.e. no cable routing problems, nose cable is not twisted
at swan hook, nose cone is secure in place, sprogs are in place
2. Assure the crossbar setup cable in not caught or riding on the pivot block
3. Assure that all ribs are secured and have reasonable tension in the trailing edge rib strings
or flip tip ends. If a rib is loose for no apparent reason, check to see if the rib has
punctured and pushed through the rib pocket at the leading edge. This will cause a loose
rib and a turning problem.
4. Match all ribs to the rib blueprint provided with your wing. Correct any deviations unless
they were changed as a result of prior successful tuning.
5. Check the leading edges to assure they are not bent. If so, they must be replaced.
Once these checks are completed, and wing handling or performance problems persist, then
proceed with the following diagnostics.
A few basic rules of wing tuning are listed here:
1. Make only small adjustments until the effect of those changes is determined by test
flying.
2. Never change more than one adjustment at a time without testing the result of that
adjustment.
3. Upon completion of making any adjustments, test fly the trike about a foot off the ground
for the length of the runway at least three times before climbing to altitude to assure no
adverse characteristics have been introduced.
4. Record all changes in your wing maintenance log
There are six basic types of adjustments that an owner is authorized to make to tune his wing
handling:
1. Sail tension from front to rear at selective locations (rib positions)
2. Sail tension along the leading edge
3. Selective rib re-shaping
4. Twist (or washout) along the span of the wing
5. Cross bar pull back adjustment
6. Hang block location (CG adjustment)
Each of these adjustments has a different affect on the performance and handling of the wing.
Table 9-1, Wing Tuning Diagnostics, provides a diagnostic procedure if your wing performance
needs corrections. The “1st Adjustment” column is the recommended first corrective action. If
the problem persists, the “2nd Adjustment” can be made. The code letters in the columns refer to
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the list of Corrective Adjustments in the following Table 9-2, Wing Corrective Adjustments. If
neither of these two adjustments corrects the problem, contact a North Wing dealer.
1st
2nd
Adjustment Adjustment
Tail heaviness (flies too slow)
B
Nose heaviness (flies too fast)
A
Wing pulls to the right with hands off straight and level flight
Q,F
L,D
Wing pulls to the left with hands off straight and level flight
R,E
K,C
Yaw unstable (roll response lag)
G
I
Roll is unstable (difficult to keep from rolling)
M
O,J
Roll too stable (heavy force required to enter into roll)
G
P,I
Wing Breaks to left in a stall
E,K
Wing breaks to the right in a stall
F,L
Trailing edge flutter
N
J
Table 9-1: Wing Tuning Diagnostics
Symptom
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Code
Description of Corrective Adjustments
A
B
C
Move hang block back (1/2” at a time)
Move hang block forward (1/2” at a time)
Increase camber on the last 2 cambered left tip ribs by "”, or decrease the
same on right tip by "”
Increase camber on the last 2 cambered right tip ribs by "”, or decrease the
same on left by "”
For a strong turn, increase the tension of the right leading edge pocket, or
loosen the tension of the left leading edge pocket by inserting or removing
shims respectively. See description below for inserting shims.
For a strong turn, increase the tension of the left leading edge pocket, or
loosen the tension of the right leading edge pocket by inserting or removing
shims respectively. See description below for inserting shims.
Loosen leading edge pocket on both sides by removing shims respectively.
See description below for inserting shims.
Tighten leading edge pocket on both sides by inserting shims. See
description below for inserting shims.
Loosen rib tension on both sides symmetrically except for #1 and the last 2
ribs
Tighten rib tension on both sides symmetrically starting at the tips
Tighten rib tension on the left side ribs #1 – 4
Tighten rib tension on the right side ribs #1 – 4
Loosen tension on ribs #2-4 on both sides to remove excess reflex from these
ribs
Tighten rib tension in the locality of each problem area
Tighten the rigging tension of the cross bar restraining cable using the
adjustable tangs on the rear shackle
Loosen the rigging tension of the cross bar restraining cable using the
adjustable tangs on the rear shackle
To correct a mild turn to the right, twist both left and right wing tips
“counter” clockwise looking at the wing tip. Notice that even though you are
twisting both wing tips “counter clockwise”, the wing tip on each end moves
in opposite directions because you are looking at it from opposite ends.
To correct a mild turn to the left, twist both left and right wing tips
clockwise.
Table 9-2: Wing Corrective Adjustments
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
Q
R
Descriptions of how to perform these adjustments is given in the following paragraphs.
However, the amount of adjustment required is dependent upon the specific problem and varies
from wing to wing. Therefore, it is important to make only one change at a time. Make a small
change and then test the effect of those changes by flying the wing. It is best if these adjustments
are made by someone with wing tuning experience since it takes practice and patience to tune a
wing properly.
Moving the Hang Point (Adjustments A and B):
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The hang point is easily adjusted to any location within the acceptable range. See description in
Section 2.2 Weight and Loading.
Changing Wing Camber (Adjustments C and D):
Changing wing camber is done by reshaping the ribs selectively. It is seldom if ever needed
except in the case of wing damage due to impact. Since this is a very delicate task, this must be
done by a North Wing dealer. Contact North Wing to find the nearest location to you where this
can be done.
Rib Tension (Adjustments I, J, K, L, M, N):
Rib tension is easily adjusted in one of two ways. For slight adjustments, the leech lines holding
the ribs in the pockets can be crossed and then re-attached. This will essentially make the loop
distance shorter and put more tension on that rib. If even more tension is required, the knot in
the leech line must be untied and re-tied at a short loop length.
Crossbar Rigging Tension (Adjustments O and P):
Rigging tension is adjusted using the pull back cable adjustment shackle as shown in the picture
below. Wing must be removed from the trike and de-tensioned to do this adjustment.
Pull Back Cable
Adjustment Holes
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Leading Edge Tension (Adjustment E,F,G, and H):
Adjusting the leading edge pocket tension on the Mustang series or GT5 wings requires inserting
or removing shims in the leading edge under the trim tip using the following procedure.
Step 1: Remove the last three ribs and de-tension the sail so it can be closed about 25 to 35% when you
release the cross bar tension cable. On a Quest wing you must unzip the two zippers at the upper strut
area about 8”. Otherwise it will put stress on the zippers and eventually break them. Separate the sprog
velcro also. This allows enough slack in the sail to remove it from the trim tip as described below. Note that
a leading edge cannot be “loosened” if there are no shims in the side needing to be loosened.
Step 2: Loosen both trim tip screws 4-5 full
turns. Using the Philips screwdriver, “pop” the
screws in with the heel of your hand to loosen the
trip tip. (For more detail on how the trim tip
works, see next section on Wing Twist.)
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Step 3: Using the black strap attached to the sail,
pull the yellow strap out of the groove in the trim
tip. This may require removing the sail screw at
the nose going into the leading edge so the sail can
slide back to allow slack in the yellow strap.
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Step 4: Slide the trim tip out of the end of the
leading edge.
Step 5: Slip shim over the trim tip, and reinsert
trim tip into leading edge. Shims range from "” to
#” .
Step 6: Realign screws with marks on leading
edge as it was when disassembled. Otherwise,
wing twist will be changed as well as LE tension.
Note! Tighten the screws 1 – 2 turns per side
rather than tightening each side all at once.
Step 7: Re-attach yellow strap into trim tip
groove making sure strap is fully in groove.
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Wing Twist (Adjustments Q and R):
Twisting the wing is done by loosening the wing trim tip and then simply twisting the sail at the
tip by hand to a new position. The operation of the wing trim tip is described below. It is also
helpful to review the description of “Inserting Shims” above since it shows how to release the
trip tip so it can be turned.
Shim
Line up
marks
Sight screws to line
up with marks
Wing Trim Tip End Cap Adjustment
Split trim tip pushes out
against leading edge as inner
cone is pulled in by screws
Wing Trim Tip Securing Mechanism
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9.5 Sail Removal from Frame: Quest series
Skill Level:
Owner or higher
Tools:
Two 7/16” wrenches, one 9/16” wrench, Phillips screw driver, preferably a
second person
Materials:
None
Task Description:
The sail should be removed for inspection of the frame every 3 years or 300 hours, OR if the
wing has experiences any type of hard impact e.g. hard landing or striking an object.
Prepare a clean area about 40’ x 40’ to remove the sail, preferably shielded from the wind. The
wing should be protected from coming into direct contact with the ground using cardboard, a
large paint cloth, or a clean floor surface. Clean dry grass can be used, but be careful when
moving the wing on the grass to avoid permanent stains. If it is not possible to avoid the wind,
face the nose of the wing into the wind.
1. Remove the wing from the trike using the procedure described in the Owner’s Manual.
2. Remove wing struts and ribs and fold the sprogs back toward wing tips following the
procedure shown in the Owner’s manual as if you were going to put the wing in its bag
for transporting. Proceed to the following steps with the wing sitting on the control frame.
3. Disconnect the nose wires from the swan hook.
4. Bring wing tips together simultaneously in 3-4 small steps if only one person is doing it
being careful not to force them together. Make sure the shackle on the end of the cross
bar tension cable does not catch on the entry hole on the top of the sail when bringing the
wing tips together. If it catches on the hole, it can easily tear the sail causing significant
damage.
5. Cut the center zipper zip ties and fold out the loose end of the zipper. NOTE! Mark the
zipper so that you can re-align the zipper teeth when you re-assemble sail. In most cases
the left and right side zipper ends will align and then marking is not necessary. After
marking the zipper, un-zip the center under surface zipper completely to separate the two
halves. Also un-zip both the side strut sail zippers.
6. Rotate the control bar back and lay the nose on a raised support, e.g. a saw horse or box
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7. Remove Philips screw holding sail in place at nose on each side located up near nose on
leading edge. Note raised support at nose.
8. Remove rear wires from keel tube noting order of washers and saddles.
9. Remove the rear x-bar cable restraint latch and sail strap tang from the rear keel. When
you remove the latch the x-bar pull back cord will be loose. Take a piece of masking tape
and secure it to the keel tube to facilitate re-assembly.
X-bar cable restraint latch
Pullback cord
Sail strap tang
10. Un-velcro the sail-to-keel tube 3” restraint webbing in front of C.B. apex.
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11. Slide sail toward rear slightly on both sides and open velcro straps that are holding
yellow webbing sail straps at the rear of Leading Edge. Lift yellow sail strap from groove
in the trim tip cap. If you have wing tip strobe lights, they will have to be removed first.
Wing tip Velcro
straps (white)
12. Pull the loose sail out and over the top of the leading edge and the outside of the entire
frame as shown below.
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13. Bring wing tips together again being careful not to force them. If any resistance is
encountered, stop and check that the sail is clear of all parts.
14. Slowly slide the sail off the frame to the rear. Try not to slide the sail with the full weight
of the LE tips pinning the sail to the floor. This will make marks on the sail. Slide the sail
down the frame about 1/3 of the way then lift the frame behind the control bar apex and
push the sail off the tips. Do this until the sail is clear of the frame.
If the sail is to be shipped to a repair site, it is recommended that the mylar inside the leading
edge be removed. If this is the case, continue with the following steps.
15. Remove the mylar from the leading edge by laying the sail flat on the ground with the
leading edges laying straight and with the wing tip webbing being held by a second
person or tied to a post. Slowly and carefully pull the mylar out. If any resistance is
encountered, stop and pull the leading edge of the sail flat and straight again. Having a
second person slightly “fluff” the wing at the tip end as you pull the mylar out will help.
Note the orientation of the mylar so you will re-install it the same way. The relief cuts are
on the bottom side.
16. Fold the sail first in half along the center line (keel tube pocket) with the top side out
keeping the sail as flat as possible. Fold the leading edges (now on top of each other) up
to the opposite edge (where the keel pocket is now). Then fold the tips toward the nose
of the sail until it is reduced to a reasonable shipping size…about 2’ x 3’.
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9.6 Replacing Sail on Frame
Skill Level:
Owner or higher
Tools:
Two 7/16” wrenches, one 9/16” wrench, Phillips screw driver, preferably a
second person
Materials:
None
Task Description:
When replacing the sail on the frame, allow the same 40 foot clean working space preferably
shielded from the wind.
1. If the mylar were removed for shipping, re-install them in leading edges first. Lay the
wing sail on a clean surface with the top side up. Re-installing the mylar is reasonably
easy to do if the leading edge pocket is laid “very” flat from nose to tip. This means the
edges of the LE pockets cannot be folded over slightly or even bent a little. Otherwise
the mylar will buckle and bind as it is pushed in. Be sure the mylar is oriented properly
with the relief cuts on the bottom side. Lay the mylar out straight on the ground aligned
with the LE pocket that it will be going into. Note there is a separate pocket that runs
parallel to the LE pocket for the mylar. Slide the mylar into the LE mylar pocket by
grasping it on both edges and pushing it gently into the pocket. It will go very easily for
about three quarters of the way. To get it fully in place, it may require a second person
pulling and working the tip end of the sail pocket to relieve and resistance the mylar
encounters. The slightest curve or bend will create a significant amount of resistance and
prohibit the mylar from easily sliding into place.
If it becomes impossible to replace the mylar using the above method, it will be necessary
to use an 18ft light weight pole with a small peg on the end. Be sure it is not a sharp peg
that can damage the sail upon entry or withdrawal. Insert the peg in the hole at the tip
end of the mylar and CAREFULLY push the mylar into the sail pocket.
2. Turn the sail over so the top side is now up and stretch it out fully from nose to tip.
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3. Lay the nose of the air frame on the saw horse with the control frame down. Using a
small cord or velcro strap, tie the sprogs back so they are pointing toward the tips of the
frame, not the nose. The leading edge tips should be about 2 feet apart. Be sure the
single loop end of the haul back cord (not cable) is taped to the end of the keel tube so
you won’t have to fish it through the keel pocket later. Check to be sure the cord is
properly routed over the pulley and not twisted.
4. Carefully slide the tips of the leading edges into the nose of the sail making sure they go
down the left and right LE sides. Try to keep the leading edges lifted slightly so they
don’t scrap the sail between the tube and the floor. After you slide the sail on about 8 ft.,
you can lift each LE up one at a time and slide the sail on until the tip of the sail is at the
tip of the frame. As you slide the sail towards the nose, make sure the keel tube goes in
to the keel pocket.
5. Once you get the sail all the way up to the nose, put the yellow strap over the rear LE
caps and hook the velcro around the tube.
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6. Now take a small cord and put it through the nose sail grommets and run it around the
nose plate so you can pull the sail towards the nose as much as you can.
7. Install the rear latch, keel pocket webbing restraint tang, and pull back cord that you
taped to the keel tube. Remember the cross bar pull cord loop goes around the forward
saddle.
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8. Connect the rear wires.
9. Stand the wing up on the control bar as you normally would to set up the wing.
10. Before spreading the wing put the zipper pull back on the center zipper. Use the marks
you made under Step 5 of the Sail Removal section to line up the zipper. Zip tie the
grommets together with the excess zipper folded back under the zip tie.
11. After you have completely set up the wing with nose rib in place you can pull the cord
through the nose grommets and put the nose screws in their place. The grommets will not
line up with the screw holes unless the wing is completely set up and fully tensioned.
9.7 Leading Edge Replacement
Skill Level:
LSR-M or A&P
Tools Required:
Two 7/16” and one 9//16” box or open end wrenches
Philips head screw driver
Materials:
Replacement leading edges
AN4 Nylock nuts
Task Description:
Each leading edge has a rear section and nose section. Consequently, if damage to the leading
edge occurs, it is important to determine if the damage is on the rear section or nose section, and
on the right side or left side. The leading edges are color coded with green on the right and red
on the left. Anytime the leading edge suffers a hit, both sections should be removed and
inspected for any signs of dents, bends, or cracking including any signs of overstress or
elongation around the bolt holes at the nose and the crossbar attachment points. The leading
edge can be removed and replaced without removing the sail completely from the frame.
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2. Remove wing struts and ribs and fold the sprogs back toward wing tips following the
procedure shown in the Owner’s manual as if you were going to put the wing in its bag
for transporting. It will help to Velcro or tape the sprogs in this folded back position.
3. Disconnect the nose wires from the swan hook.
4. Bring wing tips together simultaneously in 3-4 small steps if only one person is doing it
being careful not to force them together. Make sure the shackle on the end of the cross
bar tension cable does not catch on the entry hole on the top of the sail when bringing the
wing tips together. If it catches on the hole, it can easily tear the sail causing significant
damage.
5. Fold the control bar back under the frame and lay the wing on the ground.
6. Remove the Philips sail retaining screw from the damaged leading edge near the nose and
save to re-install.
7. Remove the nose plate bolt for the damaged leading edge. There is only one for each
leading edge. Note! If you are absolutely certain that only the rear LE section is
damaged, this step does not need to be done.
Leading edge
nose plate
bolts
8. Pull apart the white velcro straps at the wing tips that hold the sail leading edge tight
against the leading edge tube.
9. Pull the yellow sail retaining strap at the wing tip out of the trim cap groove using the
loose black finger strap running parallel to the yellow strap but slightly longer. Be sure
the strap is pulled off the trim cap toward the front edge of the sail so the leading edge
tube can be slid out without having to slide “through” the yellow strap.
10. Remove the trim cap following the instructions given in Section 9.4 on wing tuning. Be
careful to note any shims that have been installed for proper re-assembly.
11. Unzip the mid-point sprog (long sprog) inspection zippers and unbolt the x-bar from the
LE channel bracket. This is the main span eyebolt. Pull the safety pin or wire tie to take
the castle nut off. This will require a 9/16” ratchet or open end wrench and a screw driver
to hold the eye of the eyebolt. Note the sequence of washers.
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12. Now you can slide the whole LE tube out the rear of the sail and inspect it. If you find
damage, continue to the following steps. If not, re-assemble the LE tube. Note! If you
had previously determined that only the rear section LE needed replacement, perform the
next step below (#13) and remove only the rear section LE.
Steps to take upon finding LE damage:
13. Remove the front section-to-rear section LE attachment bolt. This is the forward most
bolt in the center area. It is the only bolt you will need to remove to change out a front
section of the LE tube, assuming you removed the nose plate bolt in Step 7. To remove
this front/rear connection bolt will require sliding a 7/16” open end wrench under the
protective mylar wrapped around the leading edge to hold the head of the bolt.
Remove front to rear section
LE attachment bolt.
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14. Slide the LE (or rear section only if that is the only damaged portion) out of the sail.
Rear
section
of
LE
separating from front section
15. If the rear section needs to be replaced, remove all four bolts shown here; sprog cable
bolt, front to rear section attachment bolt, 2 X-bar to LE bracket bolts. With the
exception of the eye bolt and front/rear section attachment bolt, these other bolts can be
removed after the rear section is removed from the frame.
16. Remove the bolt that anchors the sprog cable, and pull the cable free from the LE. DO
NOT remove the bolt holding the sprog itself to the mounting bracket. Note the sequence
of washers on the sprog cable attachment bolt. These are necessary to achieve the correct
support of the sprog under load.
17. Remove the two bolts holding the x-bar channel bracket to the LE. Again, note how the
mylar is wrapped so it can be properly re-installed.
18. Remove the outboard sprog and sprog cable from the old LE and install on the new LE.
Again, note the sequence of washers.
19. Re-install all the hardware onto the new rear tube.
20. The new rear leading edge section can now be mated together with the front section and
re-installed into the sail.
Reassembly:
1. In general, when re-assembling, simply perform the above tasks in reverse order. A few
notes may be helpful.
2. Be careful to align the rear section LE properly. With the wing upside down it is easy to
get the sprogs facing the front of the LE instead of the back. It may not be obvious this
has happened until later in the re-assembly and some re-work will be required.
3. You will not be able to get the sail screw at the nose back in place until the wing is
completely re-assembled and tensioned. At that time, the grommet in the sail can be
more easily twisted by hand to align with the screw hole in the LE. It is helpful to have a
second person assist with this.
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9.8 Keel Tube Replacement
Skill Level:
LSR-M or A&P
Tools Required:
Two 7/16” box or open end wrenches
"” Hex wrench (Allen wrench)
Materials:
Replacement keel tube
AN4 Nylock nuts
Task Description:
The keel tube can be removed and replaced without removing the sail or any other elements of
the wing frame following the sequence outlined below:
2. Remove wing struts, fold in the sprogs and remove all ribs following the procedure
shown in the Owner’s manual as if you were going to put wing in bag for transporting.
3. When wing is folded back standing on control bar. Disconnect the nose wires from the
swan hook and lay the nose of the wing on a raised surface like a sew horse. Wing tips
should be approximately 4 ft apart.
4. Remove rear cable assembly and cross bar cable restraint hook assembly at the rear of the
keel tube.
5. Remove both trike collars by removing both Allen bolts from the collar halves.
6. Remove the two bolts holding control frame plastic apex block assembly.
7. Remove two keel tube bolts from the nose plate. It may be helpful to slightly loosen the
other LE bolts to slide the keel tube saddles and washers out easily. Note sequence of
collars and washers for reassembly.
Keel tube bolts (2) on
nose plate
8. Slide keel tube out of the nose plates toward the rear of the wing, then slide it out of the
keel pocket forward. Note that the keel tube goes through then crossbar black webbing
loop. You must remember to get the new keel back through this restraint webbing.
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9.9 Crossbar Replacement
Skill Level:
LSR-M or A&P
Tools Required:
Materials:
Replacement crossbar
2 – Thin AN4 Nylock nuts
1 – Thin AN5 Nylock nut
Task Description:
The crossbar can be removed and replaced without removing the sail or any other elements of the
wing frame following the sequence outlined below:
3. When wing is folded back standing on control bar. Disconnect the nose wires from the
swan hook and lay the nose of the wing on a raised surface like a sew horse. Wing tips
should be apx 4 ft apart. Pull the sail material out over the top of the Leading Edges.
4. Take out the nose screws. Cut the zip ties holding the grommets together on the nose of
the under surface. Unzip the undersurface zipper.
5. Pull the sail back so you can get to the cross bar center junction.
6. Unbolt the damaged crossbar from the leading edge attachment by removing the castle
nut on the inside of the tapered end of the crossbar using a 9/16: wrench with a screw
driver to hold the eye bolt. Lift the crossbar off the bolt. Do not remove the bolt from
the attachment bracket. Put the castle nut back on the bolt loosely until the new crossbar
is attached.
Crossbar castle
nut (9/16”)
Eye Bolt (hold with
screw driver)
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1. Unbolt the crossbar from the crossbar center plate, and slide the crossbar free of the wing.
To do this, it is necessary to slide a 7/16” wrench inside the crossbar to hold the nut from
turning since the bolt does not go all the way through the cross bar. Note the sequence of
the spacers and washer inside the crossbar. We use a box end wrench with a small round
magnet glued to one side of the wrench. This allows us to reinstall the nut and washers
with ease. You can also use a piece of tape to close one end of the box end wrench.
Crossbar center plate bolts
looking from front side
Crossbar center plate
looking from back side
Re-assembly Note:
Re-assemble in reverse order. Again you most likely will not get the sail mount screws back in
the nose until you completely assemble the wing. To make set up easier put a line through the
sail grommets and around the nose plate and pull tension on the sail leading edges.
When re-assembling, remember to use a safety pin or ring on the castle nut on the crossbar
attachment to the leading edge bracket.
Also pay attention not to miss the black cross bar restraint webbing that goes under the crossbar
plate.
9.10
Front and Rear Pitch Cables (Lower Rigging) Replacement
Skill Level:
Owner or higher
Tools Required:
Materials:
Replacement cables
3 – "” Thin Nylock nuts
Task Description:
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The front and rear pitch cables and mounting tangs come as two separate cable assemblies.
Although they can be replaced separately if damaged, it is recommended both assemblies be
replaced at the same time. These cables should be replaced every 400 hours of flight time or if
any one of them becomes kinked or shows any sign of wear or abrasion.
1. Remove the wing from the trike using the procedure described in the Owner’s Manual
3. With the wing still spread open you can unhook the nose wires and left the nose of the
wing and fold the control bar back under the wing. Now bring the nose down and rest on
top of a sew horse.
4. Remove cable attachment bolt at rear of keel tube. Inspect the bolt and replace bolt and
nut if any signs of wear on the bolt.
5. Remove cable at lower control bar attachment point. Also inspect bolt for ware, replace if
needed. Always replace nylock nuts, never reuse nylock nuts.
6. Replace the new cables and reassemble wing.
Lower front and
rear
cables
attachment to
downtube
Rear lower cables & tangs
attached to keel tube
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9.11
Owner Replaceable Wing Fittings and Hardware
Skill Level:
Owner or higher
Tools Required:
Materials:
Replacement Fittings and Hardware
Task Description:
The wing fittings and hardware listed below can be replaced by the owner.
•
•
•
•
Sprog attachment hardware
Front swan hook attachment
Pull back cable attachment hardware (Bailey spring latch)
Control bar frame tubes
In all cases replacement of this hardware requires the removal of the wing from the trike. The
common element among these items is that they all attach to the tubing and care must be taken to
avoid over tightening bolts and thereby crushing or distorting the tubing excessively.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Remove wing ribs
Spread wing on clean floor or ground surface upside down.
Open wing zipper or nose cone to expose part to be replaced.
Remove safety wire and bolts securing hardware to wing tubes taking particular care to
note the sequence of washers, saddles, and nut positions.
5. Replace the worn or damaged part checking the holes in the tubing at the same time for
wear or fatigue cracks.
6. Replace the bolts and nylock nuts with new ones if there is any sign of wear. Always
install new nylock nuts. Tighten the bolts to SNUG (no slack plus " turn) making sure
the tubing is not distorted which would weaken the tube.
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9.12
Non-Owner Replaceable Wing Fittings and Hardware
Skill Level:
LSR-M or A&P
Tools Required:
Materials:
Replacement Fittings and Hardware
Task Description:
The wing fittings and hardware listed below must be replaced by an authorized mechanic.
•
•
•
Nose plates
Cross bar plates
Crossbar to leading edge attachment hardware
The procedure for this task is the same as for Owner Replaceable hardware above and it is
repeated here. In all cases replacement of this hardware requires the removal of the wing from
the trike. The common element among these items is that they all attach to the tubing and care
must be taken to avoid over tightening bolts and thereby crushing or distorting the tubing
excessively.
7. Remove wing ribs
8. Spread wing on clean floor or ground surface upside down.
9. Open wing zipper or nose cone to expose part to be replaced.
10. Remove safety wire and bolts securing hardware to wing tubes taking particular care to
note the sequence of washers, saddles, and nut positions.
11. Replace the worn or damaged part checking the holes in the tubing at the same time for
wear or fatigue cracks.
12. Replace the bolts and nylock nuts with new ones if there is any sign of wear. Always
install new nylock nuts. Tighten the bolts to SNUG making sure the tubing is not
distorted excessively which would weaken the tube.
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10. Transportation and Storage
The Quest GT5 should always be stored with the zipper facing down, especially during
transportation. With the wing riding this way, the sail is sitting on the tubing rather than the
tubing sitting (and bouncing) on the sail. This will significantly reduce the possibility of
vibration/wear damage during transport. Additionally, with the zipper down less water will get
into the cover bag in case of rain.
Avoid hard spots pressing on the wing during transportation or storage and have as many
supports as possible; we recommend using a well padded three-point support system, with less
than four feet of unsupported wing extending off either end.
Use flat tie down straps, at least 1” width (available through North Wing) rather than elastic or
rope to secure the wing, and tie both ends of the wing to a support or down to the ends of the
vehicle in order to prevent the wing from flexing. Take care to not over tighten the wing tiedowns, as this can crimp your Mylar leading edges. A good technique is to squeeze and
compress the mylar, sail, and leading edges into a snug bundle by hand as it gets tied down,
rather than using the wing tie-downs to compress the wing within the bag.
It is preferable to keep the wing dry. Definitely ensure that it is dry before storing for longer
than just overnight. Any contact with salt water, of course, requires immediate rinsing with fresh
water to prevent corrosion to hardware, rigging and tubes.
11. Wing Retirement
With proper care and maintenance, the Quest GT5 will remain for some years at a high level of
airworthiness. Each Quest GT5 has a patch sewn into the sail at the top center for UV testing.
Simply cut out the panel and have a test performed.
There is much that we still don’t know about trike wing longevity; such as what exactly is the
effective lifetime of a trike wing before material fatigue and degradation compromise the
airworthiness of that wing. We do know that there are forces in nature which can severely
compromise the airworthiness of that wing, regardless of the quality of design or condition of the
wing you are operating. Your safety is ultimately your own responsibility.
However, there is one subject in particular which needs to be addressed at this point--and this is
wing retirement. There comes a time when the sail of any trike wing simply becomes too
suspect to feel safe while flying it. Ultraviolet degradation will inevitably dictate the retirement
of your wing. Judging when this occurs to your wing is best verified by an authorized service
center.
All of us, as responsible and caring human beings, owe it to one another to do the responsible
thing and remove any over-used equipment from the skies. We at North Wing abhor those
whose method of dealing with a wing due for retirement consists of simply passing their problem
along to an unsuspecting pilot in the used wing market place. The mature thing to do, at the
appropriate time, is to destroy very old gliders to ensure that they cannot endanger an unknowing
pilot.
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Along these same lines, because wings do change hands, we feel that it is quite important to keep
accurate records of tuning changes, and especially of repairs, in the maintenance log of this
manual. Please consider the needs and safety of those other pilots down the road who may stand
to gain from these records.
12. Limitation of Liability
The owner and operator of this trike wing must understand that, due to the inherent risk involved
in flying such a unique vehicle, no warranty is made or implied of any kind against accidents,
bodily injury, or death. Practiced even under the best circumstances, trike flying is a high-risk
sport. By purchasing this wing, the owner and operator of this Trike wing assumes complete
responsibility for their use of this equipment, and specifically, agrees to release North Wing
and/or their agents, from any and all liability.
13. Owner’s Maintenance Log
DATE
WORK PERFORMED
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
Version 2.1
Page 51
!""#$%&'(!)(*+#,-&./0(1$2"#30&4$(5/#36-&20(
Starting at the nose:
1) Sight along both leading edges checking for similar curves.
Now, checking the left side first, check the following points:
2)
Left downtube/base tube connection is secure and no bolt hole wear. Safeties are in place
3)
Left downtube for bends: (DO NOT FLY WITH A BENT DOWN TUBE)
4)
Front / rear cables for fraying. Do not fly with frayed cable strands. Assure tangs are
snug.
5)
Strut attachment bolts and pin at control bar end for signs of wear
6)
Strut for dents and straightness
7)
Strut attachment hardware firmly attached and safety is in place on attachment pin
8)
Inside of wing at leading edge attachment zipper for wear from internal hardware
9)
Both center and wing tip sprogs are positioned properly and secured by Velcro strap
(about !” slack), mounting hardware and cables are firm, and sprog crossbar (supporting
2 ribs) is pushed fully into pocket
10) Leading edge for tears, dents, or any irregularities
11) Wing tip to assure yellow strap is secure over end of leading edge and tip strut (batten) is
properly seated on the leading edge hook
12) Look inside wing at tips for bugs, mice, sprog positions, and batten problems
13) Trailing edge of wing for loose battens and open or broken flip tips
Repeat Checks 2 – 13 above for the right side of wing then proceed for checks below:
14) Tensioner for proper seating and tight bolts on keel tube
15) Tensioner cable connection at crossbar is secure and crossbar plate bolts are secured
16) Nose catch (swan hook) is secured a pivot and latch ends. Cables are ring are sound.
17) Center battens are in place and nose cone is properly re-seated
18) Pivot block assembly bolts secure and safety pin is in attachment bolt
19) Down tube connections at control frame apex is firm
20) Trim adjustment collars are positioned at desired location with gap less than 1/8”
21) Parachute strap D-ring is fully closed and properly positioned if applicable
22) Safety cable is properly positioned and bolt has safety pin in place
23) Step back behind wing and look at overall wing for top side tears and wing symmetry
24) All zippers are closed. Flying with the center zipper open is dangerous.
Version 2.1
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Quest GT5 wing

Transcription

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