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Gold danglers set
with diamonds
and rose cuts by
Anmol Jewellers.
Dressing up the ears the old-fashioned way
is no longer an option for those who want to
make a statement. Ingenious ear cuffs, ear
crawlers and jackets are here to entice the
fashion forward customer. Hand ornaments
or haath phools, too, are back in vogue and
designers are coming up with inventive
versions of this traditional adornment. From
arabesque palm cuffs and hand harnesses
to colourful haath phools, the options are
many. Established jewellers and innovative
designers share their opinions on these
trends and offer tips on how to carry it off.
By MARY ANN ALAPATT
Fashion-forward haath phools by Bohemian.
50 solitaire INTERNATIONAL FEBRUary 2016
Dramatic earcuffs by Anmol
Jewellers.
Design Trends
18-karat haathphool by Anmol
Jewellers set with rubies,
pearls, uncut, rose-cut and
round brilliant diamonds.
Yellow gold haathphool with a
single ring set with gemstones
by Om Jewellers.
Two-tone gold ear crawlers
set with diamonds and
tanzanite by Ghanasingh
Be True.
he haath phool has been around from the days of
queens and kingdoms. Its sudden resurgence has
led to a demand for classic as well as reworked
versions with a modern bearing.
“Haath phools are an important part of the
traditional nine-piece wedding jewellery set. They have recently
gathered wider appreciation with the younger generation
experimenting with a blend of traditional and modern elements,”
said Saurabh Gadgil, CMD, PN Gadgil (PNG) Jewellers, Pune.
“Derived from Hindi, the word haath phool literally translates
to hand flower and usually consists of a central floral motif at the
palm which is connected to a bracelet and to one or more rings.
The history of ear cuffs can be traced back to ancient times and
has been known to have been a favourite of the ancient Greeks as
a symbol of wealth and status,” added Gadgil.
Bhavin Jakhia, CEO of Om Jewellers, Mumbai, also elaborated
on the fascinating history of these jewels. “The first ear cuff ever
recorded in history, in 2000 BC, was called a kaffa. Examples of
the original kaffa were found in burial sites during excavations that
took place in the British Isles. And the haath phool is a fascinating
piece of jewellery in a bridal trousseau.”
“The traditional haath phool is being reinterpreted in a
contemporary way with a fusion of uncut diamonds, coloured
gemstones, pearls, diamonds and even in a single palette of
diamonds to achieve a more western look,” revealed Ishu Datwani,
founder, Anmol Jewellers, Mumbai. Offbeat designs are nothing
solitaire INTERNATIONAL february 2016 51
Design Trends
Wing earrings from the Muslin Bag.
new at Anmol, where fashion forward items are bestsellers. “We
do palm cuffs that are a unique variation of a haath phool and a
bracelet. We have also designed full-finger rings, knuckle rings and
dual-finger rings,” said Datwani.
Gautam Ghanasingh, CEO and creative director of
Ghanasingh Be True, Mumbai, also shared his experience with
these edgy jewels. “The versatile haath phools offered at our store
can be detached and worn as a bracelet or a ring. Our hand
ornaments are set with a variety of precious gems in intricate
designs that reflect sophistication and timeless elegance.”
Reworking staples
Palm cuff with
arabesque detailing by
Anmol Jewellers.
52 solitaire INTERNATIONAL FEBRUary 2016
According to Datwani, the trend for these accessories emerged
in the last three years, especially in the international market.
“Celebrity endorsements at the red carpet events have also
encouraged this trend among consumers who are looking for
something unusual and modern,” he added.
“The ear cuff trend is going strong this year too and it is not just
restricted to diamond ear cuffs. We have designed ethnic ear cuffs
with uncut diamonds, pearls and gemstones which have been well
received by consumers. This ethnic reworking has helped push the
ear cuff trend into the traditional segment as well,” said Datwani.
Ghanasingh, too, has captured this latest fashion drift in its
designer lines. “The recent trend of ear crawlers from Ghanasingh
Be True, comprises an elegant band, mostly curved, studded
with diamonds and the use of coloured gemstones such as pink
tourmalines, blue tanzanites and Mozambican rubies that runs
across the ear. This year, the ear cuff trend will see a deviation
in terms of the inclusion of coloured stones and pearls,” said
Ghanasingh.
Mitaali Vohra, creative head at the Bohemian, encountered
many novel trends during her stay in the US. This has added
on to her knowledge and design process. “Usually we speak
of accessorising an outfit, but what about accessorising an
accessory? That’s really what ear cuffs, haath phools and other
such new styles are – a spin on the classic. When thinking of
inspiration for ear cuffs, for example, I sketch a classic ear stud
and then think of how to decorate and accessorise it further
and in this way an ear cuff is born,” shared Vohra.
Gadgil reiterated the importance of keeping the classic
appeal of the ornaments intact while designing them. “We
try to keep it balanced. We make it a point to do justice to the
classics and retain the old-world charm of the design.”
Carrying off trends
Ear cuffs and haath phools have also proved popular in the
online sphere. Farzad Behruzi, founder of the multi-designer
store, the Muslin Bag shared his experience: “Hand harnesses
and ear cuffs are a prized possession among the internet savvy
lot mostly aged between 20 and 30 years. Recently though,
these items have become a hot favourite for those between 30
and 45 years of age as well.”
“The most popular hand harnesses are the stone and gold
pieces. Customers love these pieces and some of these pieces
are exclusive on our website. Traditionally, haath phools were
mainly a part of bridal accessories, but today they are worn for
parties and other occasions as well,” added Behruzi.
“I have got a lot of queries for simpler, more edgy haath
phools to be worn with denims or a black dress. Subtle
yet impactful designs at the Bohemian have allowed for
comfortable and casual use of the traditional ornament.
However, a haath phool is a statement design, and personally,
I’d pair it with a solid coloured outfit. This accessory is all
about wearing your attitude right,” said Vohra.
Rose motif hand harness
from the Muslin Bag.
Hand harness from
the Muslin Bag.
Design Trends
Detachable haath phool
by Ghanasingh Be True.
Haath phool by
Anmol Jewellers.
Detachable ring from
the haath phool by
Ghanasingh Be True.
“Nowadays, women are also seen wearing diamond-set hand
ornaments for cocktail evenings. My advice would be to wear
the piece with a matching earring or maang tikka and no other
jewellery,” shared Datwani.
He also has fashion advice for those looking forward to dress
up their ears with cuffs. “Just wear the ear cuff without any other
heavy accessory or necklace. You could team it with a statement
ring to complete the look with the right hairstyle and outfit, to
make the ear cuff the highlight of your look.”
Looking to a trendy 2016
This year, definite trends promise many avenues for
experimentation and style.
According to Datwani, accessories like nose rings, maatha
pattis, cummerbands and armbands are taking centre stage to
become the focal point of attention, rather than complementing
54 solitaire INTERNATIONAL FEBRUary 2016
or accentuating conventional jewellery pieces. “Women are
experimenting with a stunning hair accessory or an oversized
nose ring or a single haath phool, which creates a bold statement,”
he said.
Ghanasingh believes that colour stone-studded jewellery,
classic straight line necklaces, modular maatha pattis, nizami chotis
and stackable bangles are set to dominate the jewellery scene
this year.
According to Gadgil, traditional pieces are seeing a fashion
resurrection. “We are expecting some traditional accessories to
make a big comeback. Maang tikkas are already making waves and
so are waist chains.”
“Jacket earrings are fast becoming a trend. Midi rings that sit
around the knuckles are also gaining traction,” said Mitaali Vohra.
The New Year promises to give a new lease of life to some old,
forgotten classics. n