May 2011 - eatdrink Magazine

Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario
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RESTAURANTS
RestauRants • Recipes • Wine • tRavel
A Fresh Take
on TRADITION at
Hessenland
Country Inn
FEATURING
LONDON’S renowned
David’s Bistro
and smokin’ hot barbecuers
Smoke-N-Bones
Issue 29 • May/June 2011
ALSO
Pinecroft’s Green Frog Tearoom
in Aylmer
Anything Grows
in Stratford
Delicious Spring in
STR ATFO R D
Our month long spring food festival of seasonal delicious menus
at Stratford’s restaurants is back. Join us for an afternoon of
sampling, sipping and strolling as chefs delight with innovative
dishes using local products. Preview spring for lunch or dinner,
book a Savour Stratford Tasting or stroll the expanded Chocolate
Trail. Refresh yourself in Stratford on a culinary adventure.
M AY
1
2
7
14
18
21
28
Delicious Stratford Sampling Stroll
Delicious Stratford Menus – until June 5
Blending Your Own Tea
Craft Beer and Cheese Pairing
Bradshaws Riedel Wine Tasting Evening
How to Pair Fruit Wine
Grilling “Games”: How best to BBQ
JUNE
4 St. Andrew’s Heritage Ploughman’s Lunch and Tour
4 Foster’s Inn Ploughman’s Lunch and Mill Street Brewery
4 Tea and Honey Tasting
5 Pubs, Pilsner & Spirits Heritage Tour
11 Sweet Chocolate Tour & Tasting
18 Monforte Artisanal Cheese Making
24-26 Stratford Blues & Ribs Festival
For tickets, culinary packages and information
www.visitstratford.ca/eatdrink
SAVOUR ELGIN
MEMBERS
Clovermead Bees & Honey
Empire Valley Farm
Market & Greenhouses
Elgin County has an abundance of
great culinary destinations,
and we’re ready to show them off.
From fine dining, quaint bistros
and unique tea rooms to casual diners
and delis, Elgin County’s restaurants
will satisfy every taste.
Savour the tastes
of Elgin County.
www.savourelgin.ca
Farmgate Markets
Deli & Fresh Meat
Heritage Line Herbs
& Silver Birch Tearoom
Horton Farmers’ Market
Kettle Creek Inn
Killer Desserts
Mad Hatters Tea Room /
Quaker Barrel
Pinecroft Pottery
& Green Frog Tearoom
Quai du Vin Estate Winery
Railway City Brewing Co.
Ruby’s Cookhouse
Rush Creek Wines
Steed & Co. Lavender
The Arts & Cookery Bank
The Windjammer Inn
REDEEM THIS COUPON AT ANY SAVOUR ELGIN MEMBER LOCATION TO RECEIVE A
FREE COCKTAIL PLATE!
Name: _______________________________________________________
Email: _______________________________________________________
Postal Code: ___________________________________________________
 I do not wish to receive future communications from the County of Elgin.
EATDRINK
NOTE FROM THE PUBLISHER
Spring Is In the Air, Right?
By Chris McDonell
I
t seems to have finally stopped snowing,
and we are so ready for spring! We’ve
anticipated a change of season, despite
the crazy weather, and our writers have
lots of great ideas for your consideration. If
your thoughts have turned to gardening, join
Sue Sutherland Wood as she visits Anything
Grows in Stratford. This interesting garden
store has evolved into a “Garden to Table”
shop, so bring your appetite too.
Debra Bagshaw leads us to Pinecroft’s
Green Frog Tearoom, tucked into a little corner of paradise near Aylmer, and a great spot
to watch the plant world burst into bloom.
Jane Antoniak takes us to the Hessenland
Country Inn, where Chef Frank Ihrig (who
graces our cover at the helm of his Mongolian Grill, a summer highlight near the Lake
Huron Shore) and his family put a local twist
on traditional German hospitality. Jane also
took a trek just north of Goderich to investigate the Red Cat Farm, where Burdan’s Passion Bread has been creating a stir amongst
“those in the know.”
Bryan Lavery visits one of my favourite
chefs and finds David Chapman, a newlyminted grandfather, still wowing his customers at London’s venerable David’s Bistro.
Jill Ellis takes us to Smoke-n-Bones, one of
the city’s newer restaurants, to find out why
people are lining up for their Southern barbecue. (Hint: it’s delicious!)
The Malt Monk turns his eye to Cask Ale
and Rick VanSickle has lots of ideas for apple
cider. And, as usual, there’s plenty more to
explore in this issue. Enjoy!
eatdrink
™
inc
RESTAURANTS • Recipes • Wine • tRavel
A Food & Drink Magazine Serving London, Stratford & Southwestern Ontario
www.eatdrink.ca
A Virtual Magnet for All Things Culinary
Read an Interactive Magazine Online, Find Restaurants, Read Reviews and More!
Publisher
Managing Editor
Contributing Editor
Finances
Advertising Sales
Graphics
Telephone & Fax
Mailing Address
Chris McDonell — chris@eatdrink.ca
Cecilia Buy — cbuy@eatdrink.ca
Bryan Lavery
Jim Sisco
Chris McDonell — chris@eatdrink.ca
Jane Antoniak — jantoniak@eatdrink.ca
Gary Rowsell — growsell@eatdrink.ca
Chris McDonell — chris@eatdrink.ca
519 434-8349
525 Huron Street, London ON N5Y 4J6
Contributors
Bryan Lavery, Cecilia Buy, Jane Antoniak,
Jennifer Gagel, Darin Cook, Rick VanSickle,
D.R. Hammond, Sue Sutherland Wood,
Jill Ellis-Worthington
Editorial Advisory Board Bryan Lavery, Cecilia Buy, Cathy Rehberg
Copy Editor
Jodie Renner — www.JodieRennerEditing.com
Website
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Copyright ©  eatdrink inc™ and the writers. All rights reserved.
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CONTENTS
MAY/JUNE 2011
6
11
15
ISSUE 29
FOOD WRITER AT LARGE
Yes, We Have No Bananas
By BRYAN LAVERY
11
RESTAURANTS
David Chapman’s Five-Star Ouevre: David’s Bistro
By BRYAN LAVERY
15
A Taste of the South: Smoke-n-Bones
By JILL ELLIS
18
Cover Story: Hessenland Country Inn
By JANE ANTONIAK
34 Savouring Serenity: Pinecroft’s Green Frog Tearoom
By DEBRA BAGSHAW
SPOTLIGHTS
18
22 Burdan’s Passion Bread, from Red Cat Farm
By JANE ANTONIAK
28 How Their Garden Grows: Stratford’s Anything Grows
By SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD
BOOKS
36 The Taste of Place: American Terroir
36
Review by DARIN COOK
COOKBOOKS
38 Family, Food & Festival: The Harrow Fair Cookbook
Review and Recipe Selections by JENNIFER GAGEL
44 The LDA Cookbook: Food for Thought
38
55
Review and Recipe Selections by JENNIFER GAGEL
TRAVEL
46 Live & Uncorked: Food Network Stars in London
By DARIN COOK
NEW & NOTABLE
48 The BUZZ
BUZZ
BEER MATTERS
55 The Cask Beer Conundrum
By THE MALK MONK
WINE
59 Apples and Pairs: Matching Cider and Food
59
By RICK VanSICKLE
THE LIGHTER SIDE
62 At a Snail’s Pace
By DARIN COOK
6
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
May/June 2011
FOOD WRITER AT LARGE
Yes, We Have No Bananas
The Local Food Connection
By Bryan Lavery
T
individuals and businesses interested in
he Southwest Ontario Local Food
promoting and featuring local food, and
Connection: Farmer / Food Buyer
Networking Event and Taste it! Gala educating the public about taste. The targeted audience included consumers, local
were an unprecedented success.
producers and businesses engaged in the
The well-attended event, many months in
hospitality, culinary tourism, food retail,
the planning, exceeded expectations and
identified many future opportunities for col- food service and food distributing industries. Word of mouth brought out
laboration and cooperation in
many culinary luminaries from
both the agricultural and culisurrounding counties and from
nary communities.
across the province.
This present era is, both sadly
The event was held in the Old
and ironically, characterized by
East Village at the Western Fair
an alarming ignorance about
Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market in
agriculture, environment and
the historic Confederation Buildthe standardization of our food
ing. This was also an opportunity
products. The Local Food Conto launch a Local Flavour Initiative
... a culinary event to
nection was intended in part,
stimulate your tastebuds
supported by the Old East Village
to counteract this problem and
B.I.A and the Western Fair Farmers’
shine a light on farmers and
and Artisans’ Market. Ironically,
producers and the availability
until the Farmers’ Market opened
of local products.
in the Old East Village in 2006, the area had
Representatives of restaurants, culinary
been identified as “a food desert” in a study
retail, educational institutions and other
conducted by Dr. Jason Gilliland. A food desinstitutions talked about what they like to
ert is generally defined as a socially distressed
buy and the challenges of sourcing local
neighbourhood with low-average home
products. This networking event successincomes and poor access to healthy food.
fully showcased the region and helped
The networking portion of the event comfurther define the area as a whole, while
menced early morning (while vendors were
building awareness about our agricultural
setting up), bringing together a synergy of
and culinary identity.
like-minded people dedicated and passionThe steering committee was a colate about agriculture and food.
laboration of a number of chefs, farmers,
The Southwest Ontario Local Food Connection
(Farmer/Food Buyer Networking Event)
presents ...
Tickets are on sale now!
www.southwestontariolocalfoodconnection.ca
Tuesday, March 29, 2011 t 5 pm to 9 pm
Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market
$20 Admission includes 5 complimentary tasting tickets
Admission Tickets available online or at:
Libro Financial Group branches; Jill's Table; Fire Roasted Coffee
Must be at least 19 years of age
For more information call 519.438.5942
NOW
7 DAYS OPEN
A WEEK
A Heritage B&B & Bistro
LUXURY JACUZZI SUITES
Featuring Local
Farm to Table
Cuisine
may/june 2011
issue no. 29
www.eatdrink.ca 7
GRAND BEND STUDIO TOUR
ARTS&EATS
OVER 20 ARTISTS PLUS 30 SUPPORTING RESTAURANTS AND BUSINESSES
MAY 14, 15
PICK UP YOUR MAP ANYWHERE IN GRAND BEND AND AT PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS
www.grandbendstudiotour.com
8
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
Lunch was comprised of Szabo Farms’
Maple Roasted Pork Loin and a tasting bar
of salads, Ontario cheeses and artisanal
breads that featured local and organic
produce, condiments, pulses and culinary
inspiration. Sourced locally, ingredients
were provided by: On the Move Organics,
Sleger’s Greenhouses, Pfennings, Steve
Rounds Family Farm, Jantzi’s Cheese,
and Flair Bakery. The lunch was catered by
Savvy Chef owner and market vendor Scott
Carrothers. And to wash it all down, Jeff
Pastorious from On the Move Organics
supplied fresh, organic, hand-juiced vegetable and wheatgrass shooters.
After lunch, the event became an open
forum for networking and was followed by
a roster of “local foods” guest speakers. On
hand to lend support and talk about London’s emerging Culinary Tourism initiative
was Rebecca Le Heup, Executive Director of
the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance. Le
Heup spoke about Ontario Culinary Tourism – Discover What’s on your Table. Other
speakers included Innovations in Agri-Food:
What is on the Horizon? by John Kelly, Vice
May/June 2011
President, Erie Innovation and Commercialization; Local Sustainable and Organic Food
– An Emerging Opportunity by Chris Trussell, Partner Services Manager, Local Food
Plus; Challenges Of Being Unconventional
in a Conventional Society – How To Start
Down a Path of Having Local on Your Menu
by Chef Kristian Crossen, Braise Food &
Wine; and Filling in the Middle, hosted by
the 100 Mile Market.
More than sixty-five vendors and sponsors attended the networking event to find
potential clients and form friendships and
business relationships. Some of the farmers and producers participating included
Klondyke Farms, Heeman Green Houses
and Strawberry Farm, Burdan’s Red Cat
Farm Bakery, Ryckman’s Farms, Stratford
Tea Leaves, Everything Tea, Wayne’s Gourmet Popcorn, Kinedhan Maple Syrup,
The Corn Crib, August Harvest, Sovereign
Farms, Erbcroft Farms, and The Whole
Pig. These participants volunteered a brief
synopsis of their operations, then spoke at
greater length about what they produced to
the buyers who mingled. This resulted in a
may/june 2011
www.eatdrink.ca 9
issue no. 29
heightened awareness of the availability and
variety of local products.
Sponsors, representatives and key stakeholders from the local culinary community
included: Ministry of Agriculture and Rural
Affairs, National Farmers Union, Western
Fair Association, Western Fair Farmers’
and Artisans’ Market, Savour Stratford,
Savour Elgin, Middlesex County, Tourism London, Slow Food, Growing Chefs,
Oxford County Workplace and Training,
Local Food Plus, 100 Mile Market, Elgin
St.Thomas Health, eatdrink magazine and
many more.
The daytime networking event was followed by a Gala Taste of Southwest Ontario
Foods Reception from 5 to 9 p.m. on the second floor of the market in the Fire Roasted
Coffee Roastery.
The criteria for farmer/chef participation were that the tasting(s) had to be
authentic and comprised of entirely local
ingredients that showcase both chef and
farmer/producer. Many of our area’s local
chefs who met the “local food criteria”
participated. It was an opportunity to
showcase their creations for chefs, farmers, culinary artisans, and producers who
strive to meet and exceed expectations by
sourcing and offering local Ontario foods
and beverages.
Local event planner and caterer Robbin
Azzopardi was integral in coordinating
the success of the evening’s festivities. Outof-town guest chefs included Montforte
Dairy’s owner/lead cheesemaker, Ruth
Klahsen, who was on hand with a delicious
sampling of her renowned sheep and goat’s
milk cheeses; Chef Rene Delfraniers from
Stratford, who served a Monforte Cheese
Panna Cotta; and Chef Kim Saunders from
the Windjammer Inn in Port Stanley, who
dazzled us with delicious Lake Erie Pickerel
Cakes. Christi Masse and Will Gaynor from
Crust Catering and Bakery joined Chef
Saunders and supplied the delicious bread.
A number of London chefs participated in
the event. Chef Kristain Crossen from Braise
Food and Wine provided a delicious Blanbrook Farms Bison Carpaccio with Buffalo
Milk Mozzarella and a spectacular Heirloom
Potato and Mushroom Terrine., The pota-
ry
Deliveailable!
v
Now A
Book your Meeting
at our
Semi-Private
Dining Room
R
NOW OPENRFOUNCH
B
SUNDAY
and have an
Exceptional Dinner!
?
10
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
toes supplied by farmers Marcus and Jesse
Koeing’s Klondyke Farms in Dashwood.
Chef Tim D’Sousa from the Idelwyld Inn
served Caudles Catch Smoked White Fish
with White Fish Roe and Ingersoll Crème
Fraîche, as well as Walnut Hills Farms Crispy
Pork Belly with Toasted Barley, Beet Puree
and Anton Kozlicks Mustard.
Chef Yam Gurung from Momo’s at the
Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market served his signature Nepalese-inspired
dumplings. The pork was sourced from
Szabo Farms and the dumplings were
handmade with Arva Mill Flour.
Chef Steve James from the London
Training Centre wowed us with a deconstructed “BLT” — slow-braised Asian-style
Pork Belly, Tomato Sambal Salsa, and Antony John’s Soiled Reputation Wild Arugula
on local breadsmith Penelope Holt’s handcrafted organic bread.
Chef Andrew Wolwowitcz, from the
soon-to-be-open Springs Restaurant,
sourced all his ingredients at the Western
Fair Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market, including local pork and beef from Anthony at
Farmgate Market; Korn Spitz (bread) from
Flair Bakery; and Maitake, Black Trumpets
and Sea Asparagus from Marc’s Mushrooms
and Wild Harvest.
Chef Chris Chitty from the Delta Armouries served Wild Mushroom Ravioli and
Fresh Rolls. All Chitty’s ingredients were
sourced from the 100 Mile Market. For dessert, he prepared a velvety Pot au Crème
with chocolate from The Chocolate Factory.
Luis Riva from True Taco prepared Chorizo
and Barbocoa Tacos made with locally
sourced beef and pork from Calvin Kuepfer of
County Style Meats in Wellesley. The artisan
corn tortillas were sourced in Alymer, Ontario.
May/June 2011
Chef Korthof served St. Marys’ C’est Bon’s
soft unripened goat cheese (from a herd of
200 purebred Toggenburg and La Mancha
goats) on puff pastry with Norfolk County
Matsu apples. Chef also proffered homemade
profiteroles with Fair-trade Habitual roastedchocolate lavender mousse.
Chef Sonita Bird from the Black Shire
Pub served her signature Local Lamb Stew
accompanied with Stratford Pilsner.
Chef Danijel Markovich from Kantina Cafe
served local Chicken Salad on Arva Mills
whole wheat bread, Maple Syrup Panna
Cotta, and Sable Breton Crumbles with local
sweet potatoes.
Every region of the world offers up delicious culinary treasures. Roquefort has its
creamy sharp blue, Champagne its bubbly,
Parma its Prosciutto and Parmigiano its
cheese.
In Canada, we have Peterborough
County’s Red Fife Wheat, Annapolis Valley’s
Gravenstein Apple, Montreal’s eponymous
melon, Quebec’s Canadienne Cow, First
Nations’ Herring Spawn on Kelp, and the
Prairies’ Great Plains Bison. Here in Southwest Ontario, we are rich with culinary tourism and agri-tourism resources, but could
benefit from a stronger regional identity.
And culinary treasures here in Southwest
Ontario? We have Lake Erie yellow perch
for starters. But, yes, we have no bananas.
We have no bananas today. We’ve string
beans and onions. Cabbages and scallions.
All sorts of fruit and say, we have an oldfashioned to-mah-to…
BRYAN LAVERY is a well-known chef, food writer and
culinary tourism and agri-tourism proponent.
may/june 2011
issue no. 29
www.eatdrink.ca 11
RESTAURANTS
David Chapman’s
Five-Star Oeuvre
David’s Bistro stands the test
of time in London
By Bryan Lavery
Photographs by Steve Grimes
H
e has been a London fixture for so
long that it is easy to forget that
David Chapman hasn’t always
plied his trade in The Forest City.
Chapman, chef and owner of David’s Bistro
on Richmond Street, started his career with
an apprenticeship at the Grand Central
Hotel in Belfast, the epitome of luxury in
Northern Ireland at the time. The heyday of
this hotel ended in 1972, when it was taken
over by the British Army during the height of
political conflict known as “the troubles.”
For the first half of his career, Chapman
was employed in hotel kitchens. His talent
was quickly recognized and he moved up
through the ranks. Cooking stints just outside London, England, and in Bermuda and
Toronto eventually led him here to London,
Ontario. Chapman’s first job in London was
at Whiddington’s, a tony French restaurant
at the corner of Wellington and York Streets.
In 1980, the Villa Restaurant, owned by
Tony and Irene Demas (now proprietors
of The Stuffed Zucchini in Lucan), was
purchased by Nick Bonfrere (of London
Fishery fame), who renovated and modernized it. The venerated Villa became the
Chef/Owner David Chapman and his wife Cindy Kinsella
upscale and top-notch Anthony’s Seafood
Bistro, and Chapman became the chef. The
restaurant was operated by local restaurant legends, Nick and Carolyn Bonfrere,
and after several years they re-located to
Florida, where they opened a string of successful restaurants. Anthony’s
was then purchased by Anne
and Archie Chisolm. Chapman
stayed on as chef. The Chisolms
would later conceptualize and
open the Little Red Roaster on
Wortley Road, which is credited
in part with the revitalization of
Wortley Village. When the Chisolms left Anthony’s (by then a
local landmark), Chapman took
over running the business.
A classic bistro setting, with red walls and
black and white check tablecloths
12
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
A Richmond Street view
After being chef, then chef/owner of
Anthony’s Seafood Bistro for eighteen
years, Chapman decided to reinvent
himself and open a traditionally inspired
French bistro a couple of doors down the
street. The emphasis was not just on seafood, but authentic country French cuisine
with locally sourced ingredients. Chapman
is a long-time proponent of the philosophy
that simplicity and purity are the hallmarks
of good cooking.
It wasn’t long before David’s Bistro, with
its tiny bar, vibrant red walls, and
black-checked tablecloths, became
a venerated downtown culinary
anchor.
David, his wife Cindy Kinsella,
and David’s daughter Natalie are
your hosts and are on hand to dis-
Chef Elvis Drennan (above left), who has
worked with David Chapman for over  years,
works closely with a crack kitchen team
May/June 2011
pense intelligent, charming and
professional service. (Regulars
will be happy to hear that David
is now a grandfather. Natalie
recently became a first-time
mom and is temporarily on
maternity leave.)
David’s protégé, Chef Elvis
Drennan, a talent in his own
right, continues to present
superbly executed classic
regional French-inspired dishes.
Drennan apprenticed with
Chapman at Anthony’s and has
been working with him for over fifteen years.
A blackboard prix fixe menu changes
daily. The restaurant is known for and
acclaimed for its idiosyncratic multi-course
“Trust Me” dinners — a precursor to Chef
Tasting menus.
Over the years, the food and the service
have remained impeccable. When the
London Free Press was still reviewing restaurants, David’s was awarded with a rare
five-star review. Today this review would still
hold the test of time, with additional accolades for consistency
and longevity.
David’s classic
bistro fare includes
a delicious terrine
of sweetbreads and
leek, with chunky fig
compote and crunchy
cornichons; a fragrant
Provençal-inspired
stew with tender seafood, served with a
garlicky rouille on a
crouto; and the pièce
de résistance, a cassoulet of bacon, lamb
www.eatdrink.ca 13
may/june 2011
The David’s Bistro menu features locally sourced
ingredients in superbly executed classic regional
French-inspired dishes
and duck, with white beans adding a delicious amplifying effect on the stew’s earthy
flavours and heavenly aroma.
At lunch, cornmeal-crusted Lake Erie
yellow perch with lemon, capers and tomato
melt in your mouth, as well as Lake Erie
whitefish cake with tarragon remoulade
and micro greens. David’s other signature
dishes have included a knockout choucroute
garni (an Alsacian-inspired mélange of
sauerkraut, sausages and charcuterie) and
a superb confit of duck with a delectably
Discover Downtown London
For more information contact:
phone: 519.663.2002
email: info@downtownlondon.ca
www.downtownlondon.ca
14
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
May/June 2011
A blackboard prix fixe menu (left)
changes daily, with interesting new
wines featured on another board.
robust gorgonzola tart. The menus change
seasonally. The desserts are house-made in
the classic French tradition. There is also a
good cup of coffee.
With an extensive consignment selection
and accessibly priced wine list, as well as
interesting chalkboard features, the oenophile is well satisfied.
For the last several years, Chapman has
played host to a dinner fundraiser on March
17 to celebrate the anniversary of the opening of David’s Bistro. Last year, Chapman
and his guests raised money for research
into a cure for Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis (or ALS, more commonly known as
Lou Gehrig’s disease). This year, $7,000 was
raised for Alzheimer’s research.
David’s Bistro
432 Richmond Street, London
519-667-0535
www.davidsbistro.ca
hours of operation
lunch: Wed to Fri, 11:30 am to 2:30 pm
dinner: daily from 5 pm to 10 pm
David Chapman (right), Cindy Kinsella, and David’s
daughter Natalie (currently on maternity leave) look after
the hosting duties
BRYAN LAVERY is a well-known chef, and food writer
who has left a trail of restaurants in his wake, with many
years in consulting and advisory roles with various culinary
initiatives.
HYDE PARK Spice & Herb Co.
London Ontario's only Exclusive Spice Shop
Proudly offering fresh, affordable, high quality
products made locally with certified organic &
natural ingredients from around the world.
No fillers or preservatives; simply pure flavour.
Purveyors of Fine Spices . Herbs . Seasonings & Blends . Gifts & Accessories
Tel 519-281-HERB(4372) . WWW.HYDEPARKSPICE.COM . Fax 519-472-8778 . Retail & Commercial
may/june 2011
issue no. 29
www.eatdrink.ca 15
RESTAURANTS
A Taste of the South
Smoke-N-Bones offers London a Southern take on barbecue
By Jill Ellis
S
moke-N-Bones might be described
converged in London to bring the Forest City
as a meatatarian’s mother ship, but
a “360-degree dining experience,” says Cripthis London eatery offers other tastes ton. “That means we hit all the senses.” With
of the American south, as well. Gator
its rustic ambiance and the sounds of rockabites and catfish are two of those, as are the
billy pumping through the stereo system, a
corn muffins that accompany most entrées
tang of smoke in the air, Smoke-N-Bones is a
as a delectable side dish.
truly kinetic dining experiCo-owner Aaron Cripton
ence. This trio is serving up
learned the art of smoking
Southern barbecue done
meat in the southern fashwith Canadian flair.
ion in La Belle Province. “I
Southern barbecue is
worked with a chef there
different from grilling meat
who taught me to love that
in the backyard. No sauce
Southern cuisine,” he says.
touches it until you slather
He and business partner
on one of the gooey, spicy,
Andy Kotsovos opened
sweet mixtures. Several facSmoke-N-Bones eight
tors determine how it will
months ago, on Wellington
taste: quality of meat, the
Road, near Southdale.
rub, and the smoker.
Joining them in bringing
Chef Leblanc has devela taste of the South to Lonoped his own unique rub,
don is Chef Len Leblanc, or,
which is used on most of
Co-owners Aaron Cripton (left) and Andy the different meat dishes
as the partners like to call
him, the Executive Pit Boss. Kotsovos (right) with Chef Len Leblanc
served here.
Leblanc’s pedigree includes
Smoke-N-Bones’ meat
a stint working with Wolfgang Puck at Spago is sourced locally when possible, according
Beverly Hills. A graduate of the Culinary
to Cripton. Some exceptions are apparent;
Institute of America, Leblanc hails from
the alligator meat and catfish are brought in
Windsor/Detroit, while Kotsovos earned his from the U.S., while the Montreal smoked
stripes working at a pizzeria during his teen- meat (pickled brisket) comes from Quebec,
age years in eastern Ontario. The three have getting a decidedly different treatment from
the norm. “It’s the
authentic pickled
brisket from Montreal, but then we cure
it and triple-smoke it,”
explains Leblanc.
Real southern
barbecue must be
done in a smoker, and
Smoke-N-Bones uses
a Southern Pride, one
Smoke-N-Bones is tucked
aside the Radisson Hotel,
on Wellington St. south of
Southdale
16
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
Whether it’s chicken (above)
or ribs (right), the meats
come to the table with plenty
of smoky flavour and dryrubbed spice, ready for your
choice of sauces.
of the Cadillacs of the
industry. “It’s a highertech version of the
traditional smoker,”
explains Cripton. “It gives evenly consistent
smoke and moisture content. Consistency is
key to a good barbecue restaurant.” Kotsovos
adds that the Southern Pride is more energy
efficient than traditional smokers, and that
the restaurant uses local Sugar Maple hardwood.
Southern barbecue could be called one
of the original slow foods, as ribs take three
hours, chicken two hours, and briskets are
smoked overnight. Kotsovos explains that
they smoke three times a day. Food for each
day’s expected lunch rush is loaded in the
smoker in the morning, likewise in the afternoon for evening diners, while the “low and
The Southern Pride smoker (above), “one of the Cadillacs of the industry,” uses local Sugar Maple hardwood
The richly grained bar (right) features a number of LED
TVs, usually turned to sports and pay-per-view events
May/June 2011
slow meats, like brisket, pulled pork and
Montreal smoked meat” roast for fourteen hours.
This makes meat entrees tender and
flavourful when your order hits the table,
so you may be tempted to skip saucing
them up, but don’t make that mistake.
Many restaurants in the south have a
special house sauce, but Smoke-N-Bones
has branched
out and offers
several of their
own. The two
newest are Chef
Len’s special creations: Granny
sauce (his grandmother’s recipe)
and Detroit Rock
City (inspired by
his hometown).
The current six
sauces are so
popular that they are now sold by the bottle
for $6.
I love southern barbecue, especially brisket. Having lived in Texas, I’m especially
pleased to taste one as good as that served at
Smoke-n-Bones. Cripton is more eclectic in
his choices. “I love the chicken, ribs brisket
and pulled pork.” Kotsovos is more specific:
“I love the Great Canadian, with beef brisket
on a pretzel bun, topped with Granny sauce
and onion strings.” He adds that putting the
cole slaw right in the sandwich is one of the
things that makes it special. Chef Len just
laughs and says, “I’m 300 pounds and I love
everything, especially the side ribs.”
Cripton says that the Platters for Two
are among the most popular on the
menu, as they offer a variety of choices,
which is especially nice for those new to
this dining experience. Delectably sweet
may/june 2011
issue no. 29
and moist corn muffins are served on the
side, along with beans and potato wedges.
An integral part of enjoying a full southern experience is the music. Smoke-nBones features live music on Thursday,
Friday and Saturday nights — usually
blues, southern blues or rockabilly.
Though thoroughly comfortable with
its meatatarian orientation, Smoke-nBones offers
alternatives.
The menu
features
vegetarian
and vegan
options, like
veggie and
dip platters.
More healthconscious
diners will
enjoy a new
Recipe courtesy of Chef Len Leblanc
Smoke-n-Bones Jambalaya
Serves 6
½ lb (250 g) andouille sausage, cut into 1/2” slices
12 shrimp (16–20) peeled and deveined
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 small white onion, chopped fine
1 medium green pepper, chopped fine
1 medium red pepper, chopped fine
1 teaspoon (5 mL) butter
1 cup (250 mL) mild salsa
1 10 oz (284 mL) can of peeled Roma tomatoes,
roughly squeezed
½ teaspoon (2 mL) fresh garlic, roughly chopped
¼ teaspoon (1 mL) cayenne pepper
1⁄8 cup (25 mL) all-purpose instant chicken stock mix
2 tablespoons (25 mL) Detroit Rock City BBQ sauce
1 Sauté all the chopped vegetables in a medium
saucepan with the butter and garlic, over high
heat, until the vegetables are softened.
2 Add the shrimp and cook until the shrimp start
turning a pinkish colour.
3 Add the andouille sausage and simmer on a low
heat for 3–4 minutes. Add tomatoes and salsa. Add
all the spices and the Detroit Rock City sauce and
let simmer on a low heat for 30 minutes.
4 Let stand for 10 minutes and serve with cornbread
or a nice marble rye.
www.eatdrink.ca 17
The full Smoke-n-Bones experience includes music — usually
blues, southern blues or rockabilly,
including live music on Thursday,
Friday and Saturday nights on
the Smoke-n-Stage (above and to
the left)
addition to the menu, the Heart Smart
platter that features grilled chicken and
shrimp, along with vegetables.
The partners have recently added
catering to their array of offerings. “We
have several weddings scheduled for
this summer,” says Kotsovos. If your
affair is smaller, they do group dinners
or buffets, or Southern Picnics, featuring homey choices like fried chicken
and peach cobbler.
Head south on Wellington Road to
Smoke-N-Bones for a taste of the south.
Smoke-N-Bones
855 Wellington Road, London
519-649-1103
www.smoke-n-bones.ca
open daily: breakfast, lunch & dinner
monday to friday, open 6:30 am
saturday, open 7 am
Sunday, open 8 am
JILL ELLIS is a freelance writer and the chief
communicator for Write.On Communication Services
International (www.writedoton.com).
18
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
May/June 2011
RESTAURANTS
German Flavours on the Huron Shore
Hessenland Country Inn, just north of Grand Bend
By Jane Antoniak
S
paetzle. Rouladen. Schnitzel. These
are what you most likely expect when
dining at a German inn. And these are
on the menu at Hessenland Country
Inn, but they’re done with a new, modern
flair. Second-generation chef/owner Frank
Ihrig, at 38, looks and cooks like he should
be on a celebrity cooking show. After extensive education and training in Canada,
Europe and Australia, Frank decided in 2002
to return to his family business and take
over chef duties.
Frank and his wife Liz decided to roost in
the tiny hamlet of St. Josephs on “Ontario’s
West Coast,” on highway 21 between Bayfield
and Grand Bend. Hessenland was started
in 1984 by Frank’s parents Ernst and Christa
Ihrig (Ernst wanted a horse farm and Christa
wanted to run a restaurant). A special spot
for traditional German dining with a modern
flair, it is also a destination location. Special
events can be held in the remodelled coach
house. You can even have your dinner in the
Sunset Tower, a private open-air two-story
gazebo that is ideal for a special tête-atête celebration, with a view of the sun
setting over the nearby fields and Lake
Huron in the near distance.
To better understand what Ihrig is up
to in the kitchen, take a look at what he
has done with the humble white bean –
the ultimate local food item in his part
of Huron County. Chef Ihrig has created
his own White Bean Hummus, a creamy
and garlicky dip served with crispy,
toasted German bread. He also uses the
white bean in a vegan soup appetizer.
Chef’s creativity really shows with a
new menu item this spring, Lakefood
soup. Using fish from Huron, Erie and
St. Clair, Lakefood (it took me a minute
to get the pun on seafood) is already
so popular that he is considering selling it as a take-home food item as well.
Loaded with slivers of pickerel, trout,
white fish, bass and perch in a base of
turnip combined with corn, carrots,
onions and other vegetables, the creamy
soup could be a meal on its own.
“Aside from salmon, we use only lake
fish in our restaurant. We don’t do any
other ocean fish. We are trying to reduce
Thursday evening is Mongolian Grill, in the garden
at Hessenland
may/june 2011
Field to Fork
Garlic Goodness
This dressing, made with locally
grown garlic, is an ideal choice for
spinach salads with fresh
strawberries. There’s lots of recipes
online, including one for a
wickedly good Thai Salad.
The Garlic Box creates products
that make everyday gourmet.
www.thegarlicbox.com
Chef Frank Ihrig
our footprint,” says Frank. On five acres of
their forty-acre property, Christa has created
natural gardens that provide the kitchen
with edible garnishes. “Christa has four
green thumbs,” says Frank proudly about
his mother. The popular outdoor Mongolian
Grill nights are held in the gardens on Thursday evenings in the summer. With live music
by Grand Bend pianist Pedro Quintana and
outdoor grilling by Frank, it is a very popular
summertime activity. Book ahead and come
with a gang, as it’s a lively experience!
While Mongolian Grill may not sound
German, you can expect traditional and
very tasty German choices on the restaurant
menu. The rouladen, thin slices of rolled
beef stuffed with bacon, carrot and onion,
holds its form beautifully and presents
well with a zesty lemon-flavoured red cabbage and light, crispy spaetzle – handmade
egg noodles fried in butter. “We get these
spaetzle experts in here,” laughs Frank, “who
debate if it should be browned or not, but I
like it this way – slightly browned and buttery.” Agreed!
The menu includes schnitzel and other
meats, and you can also order a platter for
two of Chef’s choices. Frank nods to his
mother and grandmother, when it comes to
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The Best Buns at the Beach
come from Culbert’s!
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Est.1877
Loved by generations for our famous créme-filled donuts,
to 5:30
ourOpen
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buns,
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Tuesday 1800’s
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49 West St., Goderich
Open
8:30 to 5:30
519-524-7941
Tuesday to Sunday
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49 West St., Goderich
519-524-7941
20
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
May/June 2011
University of Guelph. He met his
future wife, also a U of Guelph
commerce graduate, while both
were in France on a school
exchange. Liz went on to work in
conference services at the Westin
Harbour Castle in Toronto for
eight years. After graduating from
the University of Guelph, Frank
moved to Germany and earned
his Chef’s papers in a two-year
program with Kempinski Hotels.
“It was a high-end hotel experience. I got to see a lot of different
things,” he says. He returned to
It’s a family affair – The Ihrigs of Hessenland
Canada and worked for Club
Links at Graystone, did a stint in
Whistler, and then returned to Huron Coundessert. He strongly recommends the Gertry to work at The Red Pump. “Steven Bland
man-style cheesecake made with quark (a
taught me how to organize myself, how to
type of cheese), flavoured with vanilla, and
master things while maintaining a very clean
topped with crunchy meringue. The recipe
came with the Ihrigs when they immigrated, kitchen. He was a great mentor.” Still with
itchy feet, though, Frank then headed to Zurand it maintains its place of honour on the
ich, Switzerland, and on to Australia, where
menu today.
he further developed his skills. Returning
Chef says he feels blessed to live in such
an agriculturally bountiful region. His friend, to Canada, he met Liz again, at a University
of Guelph alumni meeting. The dynamic
Gerhard Metzger, provides him with locally
pair decided to make a big decision in their
raised and cured beef and bacon from his
lives and become partners at Hessenland
butcher shop in Hensall. And when he can
with the Ihrig family. “Frank really wanted
secure enough quantity, he uses local proto work for himself,” says Liz. And she has
duce. Frank credits early advice from Gail
built a sideline of weddings into a major part
Waters, longtime owner of The Little Inn
of the Inn’s business. The renovated coach
of Bayfield, as well as from his early chef
house with stone interior walls is sometimes
training at The Red Pump in Bayfield under
booked with as many as eleven weddings in
former chef Steven Bland, for guiding him
one month now. The couple had their own
to appreciate all that Huron County offers
wedding reception at the Inn. They now live
a chef. “As I get older, the biggest thing for
me is appreciating where we are located. We nearby, with their son Sebastian.
There are two dining areas for guests.
used to take it for granted, being so close to
the water. It really is so nice. People come to The cozy lounge at the front of the Inn has
a fireplace and terrace, and handles about
visit us and they say, ‘Do you realize what
you have here?’ ”
The family came to
Canada in 1982 when
Frank was nine and
spoke only German. “The
right spot came up at
the right time,” says Liz.
While Frank’s parents
developed the Inn with
lively German beergarden nights and homestyle cuisine, Frank went
on to earn a Bachelor of
Commerce in hospitalA tranquil sunset view of part of the Hessenland grounds
ity and culinary at the
may/june 2011
Metz-Ger.
In Germany, it means butcher.
In Hensall, it means Gerhard.
Beef Rouladen, Spaetzle and Red Cabbage (above) and
German Cheesecake (below)
a dozen people. The renovated bar is now
painted white, making the Inn brighter, while
respecting the German theme with exposed
ceiling beams, slate and wood floors, and
several impressive antique pieces of furniture
(including an apple press that came with the
family from Germany). The Garden Room,
with floor-to-ceiling windows facing the back
gardens, seats up to a hundred people.
“I just like to keep things simple here, not
overcomplicate things,” says Frank. Hessenland Inn is a welcome spot for area diners
and travellers looking for a staycation.
Hessenland Country Inn
RR #2, Zurich
519-236-7707 or 1-866-543-7736
www.hessenland.com
JANE ANTONIAK is a writer and owner of Antoniak
Communications in London.
Gerhard Metzger and his dedicated team are
known by the best chefs in Ontario – and
by discerning home cooks – as producers of
premium cuts of meat. Metzger’s uses the
best raw ingredients, with local meats and
traditional recipes. The result is healthier
products, fashionable presentations of
ready-to-cook meats, and delicious
traditionally-smoked German delights.
Metzger.
A German butcher right in
our own backyard.
www.metzgermeats.com
519-262-3130
Hensall, Ontario.
Just off Hwy 4, 45 minutes north of London.
Open six days a week.
Fabulous BBQ creations ready to grill!
22
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
May/June 2011
SPOTLIGHT
A Passion for Excellence
Burdan’s Passion Bread, from Red Cat Farm
By Jane Antoniak
I
kept getting rave reports about an
excellent bakery north of Goderich, so I eagerly booked a time
to visit Christian Burdan and his
wife at Red Cat Farm. The Burdans
had asked if I could come by around 10
o’clock one morning, so that we would
have time to talk about their Passion
Bread and their passion for traditional
European bread making. Timing is
everything for bakers. The bread would
be fresh from the oven, and customers
would start to arrive at 11.
When I got to the bakery, Christian
Burdan, a seventh-generation baker
from Germany, was just removing the
last of the hot loaves from his impressive direct firing gas and brick oven. Filtered
rain water is pumped into the oven, creating
Sophie and Christian Burdan
steam/moisture, which is one of the secrets
to making Passion Bread. Another key is the
way Christian monitors the temperature,
blasting it with gas flames to 280°C and then
letting it fall slowly while the bread is baking.
“Everything he does is complicated,” chuckles his wife, Sophie. “But it turns out such a
good quality of bread.”
“A modern steel oven doesn’t close the
crust very fast,” explains Christian. “A normal
oven will take 15–20 minutes to close the crust,
The bread is made with organic grains, crisply crusted,
with a moist, chewy interior
Catering to Southwestern Ontario
Trained Professional Chef,
utilizing the area’s finest ingredients
Catered Events: Corporate, Private, Weddings
may/june 2011
and you lose 15–16 of the moisture. With that
loss of moisture you lose flavour. With this
oven the crust closes in five minutes, and you
lose only 8–9 moisture. The result is that the
crust is even in colour and depth.” He deftly
slices open a loaf and shows me the crust, then
he gives the loaf an elasticity test by pressing
it between a board and his hand — proudly
stating that in Germany his bread was tested to
have 91 elasticity — very little crumble and it
bounces back when you press your thumb into
the cut loaf. Yes, it is all very precise.
The aroma was magnificent, the air in the
bakery was warm and moist in contrast to
the cold spring morning, and the uber-clean
bakery was dusted in a lovely thin layer of
fresh flour.
As Sophie Burdan stacked the fresh
chocolate buns, cinnamon rolls, and hearty
loaves of German rye, Dutch white and
Ukrainian braided breads onto shelves adjacent to the oven, we chatted and sampled
their satisfying creations. Crisply crusted
breads with moist, chewy interiors all made
with organic grains from a natural sourdough — not sour-tasting, of course — but
naturally fermented bread, made without
baking soda or baking powder.
However, at 10:30, just as we were getting
all the details, the door creaked open and an
eager-looking customer timidly peeked inside.
Sophie’s clerk was putting on her apron as the
next customers arrived, asking if they could
make an early purchase. And suddenly a line
of customers formed, curving past the oven,
next to the now-empty racks where the dough
had recently been rising in specially imported
grass baskets, past the steel mixer and divider
(which mists the loaves with oil) and nearly
out the door. The first guy in line started placing a lengthy order — “for his gals at Timmie’s
in Goderich” he explains — and then the rush
was on. From retirees to a young fellow in a
suit, it’s as if they all share a secret. They’ve
been waiting for the Burdans to receive CSA
approval on their fancy European oven since
the family arrived in 2008 and the word
began to spread about a talented baker who
wanted to eventually grow his own organic
grains for his breads. That approval finally
came through in February, and word has
spread through Huron County and beyond
that fabulous European bread, tasty enough
to make you forget your carb-reduced diet, is
now available in our backyard.
And starting this spring, the Burdan’s will
Enroute to the Huron County Playhouse!
l
Seasona
PATIO
Continental Cuisine, prepared with a local flair,
with frequent and seasonal menu changes.
Extensive, well-rounded, reasonably-priced wine list.
Elegant yet sophisticated Victorian dining room.
D
EXTENDHEours
g
in
r
Sp
NLINE
CHECK O
DINING WITH CATERING
Serving Dinners Wednesday-Sunday
Try one of our signature dishes, like Banana Fosters
French Toast, Hensall’s pride White Bean Soup, or our
homemade turkey or beef burgers with a 25 Topper Menu
including Cranberry Mango Relish. You’ll love our options,
our portions and especially our prices!
Catering to London and Area, including southern Huron County
8FEEJOHTt3FIFBSTBM%JOOFSTt1BSUJFTt(BUIFSJOHTPGBMMTJ[FT
t$PPLJOH$MBTTFT
Go to www.whiskfulthinking.com for menus
or e-mail us for a free quote.
61 King Street, Hensall, Ontario
The corner of Highways 4 & 84
519-262-3483
24
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
also sell their baking at the Masonville Farmers’ Market on Fridays.
I decide to stop my interview with Christian, a knowledgeable Master Baker who also
has his Millwright papers, so that I can get in
line to purchase German rye, French white
baguette, and savoury cheese buns topped
with Metzger’s double-smoked bacon pieces.
By 11 a.m. — when the store is supposed to
officially open — those who thought they’d
be early birds are worried they won’t get
May/June 2011
their favourites. Clearly, the Burdans are
onto something special.
I took the bread to my German-born
friends in London who called me the next
day, exclaiming with delight that it was
“exactly what we had at home as kids.”
“It’s the crispy crust,” sighed one. “That is
really great bread.”
Red Cat Farm
82560 Bluewater Hwy (Hwy 21),
5K North of Goderich, across from Point
Farms Provincial Park
519-524-1283
AVAILABLE AT:
Masonville Farmers Market Fridays, 8 am to 2 pm.
Red Cat Farm
Monday-Thursday, 4 pm to 7 pm.
Fridays, 2 pm to 7 pm.
Saturdays, and first Sunday in month, 11 am to 7 pm.
July & August, add Tuesdays, from 2 pm to 7 pm.
Goderich Farmers Market Saturdays, 8 am to 1 pm.
Fresh from the oven!
JANE ANTONIAK, the owner of Antoniak
Communications and a regular contributor to eatdrink, has
never been on a low-carb diet in her life.
JUNE 8 - JULY 2
Huron Country Playhouse
Grand Bend, ON
Book by Mark O’Donnell & Thomas Meehan
Music by Marc Shaiman
Lyrics by Scott Wittman & Marc Shaiman
Based on the New Line Cinema film
written and directed by John Waters
M
BEST
USIC
WINNEAL
R!
AWARD
8 TONY
Live On Stage!
S
huroncountryplayhouse.com
519-238-6000
may/june 2011
issue no. 29
www.eatdrink.ca 25
26
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
Communities In Bloom “Prettiest In Town” Award
Recommended in “Where To Eat”
Eat Smart Award of Excellence
Taste of Huron 2010 Chef Challenge Winner
CH
E
20
NG
Chef Terry Kennedy uses the freshest
seasonal and local ingredients.
A beautiful Victorian
CHALLE
EF
house provides the
perfect setting for
lunch or dinner.
10 W I N N E R
May/June 2011
Dine
Shop
Stay
Play
Enjoy
Ontario’s
West Coast
www.thymeon21.com
80 Hamilton Street, Goderich
519.524.4171
www.thymeon21.com
THE ALDEBURGH CONNECTION
Artistic Directors: Stephen Ralls and Bruce Ubukata
presents the fifth annual
Bayfield Festival of Song
Town Hall, Bayfield, Ontario June 3 – 12, 2011
Serving Lunch
and Dinner
Seasonal Hours
Closed Mondays
Reservations
Recommended
Eight concerts of classical song
with Colin Ainsworth, Lindsay Barrett, Peter Barrett,
Lucia Cesaroni, Allyson McHardy and many others
Tickets $15 to $35
Call 416.735.7982 or 519.565.2435
bayfield@aldeburghconnection.org
www.aldeburghconnection.org
519.238.6224
42 Ontario St. S.,
Grand Bend
may/june 2011
issue no. 29
www.eatdrink.ca 27
“It’s a matter of taste”
Featured in Where to Eat in Canada & Toronto Life magazine
Catering Available
www.baileysfinedining.com · 120 Court House Square, Goderich · 519-524-5166
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28
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
May/June 2011
SPOTLIGHT
How Their Garden Grows
Anything Grows — From Garden to Table, in Stratford
The simple Patrick Street
facade belies the store’s
eclectic interior
pulling carrots out of the soil at 5 a.m. and
getting them ready for market. This appreciation for paying attention to what and
how we eat led to an affiliation with Perth
County’s Slow Food Movement — a group of
like-minded individuals
who adhere to a canon
of food values that are
succinctly expressed
by their motto: GoodClean-Fair. (See their
other criteria and
more at www.slowfoodperthcounty.ca.)
Allan led me
through narrow
winding spaces and
then down a flight
Free subscription Anything
Grows newsletters are
of stairs to the lower
clever, homey and
level of the shop,
chock-full of useful facts
which provides the
off-season location
for the Slow Food Market on Sundays from
10 to 2, November through May. (During
the week, the space is still The Food Shop
portion of the store during normal opening
hours.)
This area is very clearly a cool, dark cellar in an older house, but the atmosphere
invoked here is something very different.
With its deeply curved ceiling,
one immediately feels transported to a sort of underground
grotto for food lovers. There’s a
feeling you’ve been let in on a
secret; and indeed, the walls are
lined with all sorts of treasures:
garnet-red duck prosciutto
gleams next to conveniently
sized packages of confit and
other ready-prepared treats like
Cassoulet, seasonal terrines and
homemade soups, all from Chef
Marc Thuet. (This is “fast food”
with a difference.) The excelThe Carrot
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Carrots need
our orange
well cultivate
did not start
post and
staple of
d soil, rich
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Newsletter
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SPRING
T
here are few interests that complement one another more naturally
than food and gardening, but to
have them both under the same roof
is a real find. And this is exactly what is happening at Anything Grows — From Garden
to Table, on St. Patrick Street in Stratford.
Allan Watts and partner Rick Weingarden
are extremely passionate about what they do
here, and frankly, that passion is contagious.
The shop was flooded with sunlight on the
day that I visited, and the vibe was welcoming and transcendental. Customers were
chatting companionably, glad to be out on
a day when the icicles were finally melting.
The gardening stock here is funky but functional — you’ll find tinkling cutlery wind
chimes as well as iron work, stylish garden
ornaments, and of course the usual array of
tools, seeds, etc. And everything is tasteful —
which brings us full circle to food!
Adding a food shop within the store was
a carefully calculated, natural extension of
their core philosophy — to eat and grow
their own vegetables. We spoke a lot about
the unnaturally revved-up speed of our
lives today, and how out of touch most of us
have become with what we eat, due to the
increasing demands of work on our time and
energy. Allan spoke of his own simple joy of
2010 | N
O.1
By Sue Sutherland Wood
may/june 2011
issue no. 29
Artisanal cheese sampling
lent meat products from the nice people
at Field Gate Organics (their tied brisket
is amazing!) are also available. Cheddar
cheese from Jensen’s of Simcoe is also in
the fridge — a nostalgic favourite of Allan’s.
There are all sorts of charming finds,
too, including the garlic products of
August’s Harvest and a tower of lavender jams and jellies from Steed and Co.
(formerly Lavender Blue). It’s the kind of
place where you keep expecting a character from Wind in the Willows — Mole
perhaps — to appear from behind the
counter to offer assistance.
Tending baked good temptations
On market days, there are baked goods
combining virtue with quality from
Humble Roots (who specialize in gluten/
lactose-free baking) as well as Lindsay’s
Bakery, who provide celestial treats that
are both delicious and artfully presented.
It’s encouraging to find sustainable fish
choices, as provided by Simple Fish and
Chips of Stratford. The unique standout
cheeses from Monforte Dairy are also
available here, as are Soiled Reputation’s
much sought-after greens. You will find
www.eatdrink.ca 29
a stand for Erbcroft Farms (lamb,
duck) and many, many other
products. For the most part, the
vendors who are represented here
at the Slow Food Market are a veritable who’s who of like-minded
individuals from the surrounding
area. You will find products you
know, as well as a few delightful
surprises. (The Slow Market will be
at the “Anything Grows” location
The Perth Slow Food Market
found the perfect winter
home in the store’s lower level
till the end of May, and after that it
moves outdoors to Market Square,
behind Stratford’s City Hall.)
I was impressed by the variety
of really intriguing seeds available
at the shop. After the long winter
we have all endured, it was nothing short of exciting to let my eyes
wander over all the varieties available, including Easter Egg radishes,
Carnival Carrots (yes, you get red,
purple, white and orange all in one
pack!) and Delicata Honey Boat
winter squash, which I cannot wait
to try since it is touted as incredibly
Meet Riley, the shop’s
friendly canine-in-residence
30
www.eatdrink.ca
sweet, and even the peel is edible. There
are several different kinds of arugula,
chards and kale, all of which are highly
nutritious and tasty. Another standout
was the choice of gourmet beets ranging from Albino White — for those who
don’t want to stain their nails — to Bull’s
Blood. The fancy Chioggia beet (aka The
Candy Cane beet) is striped inside, just
as the name implies, and every bit as
sugar-sweet.
Rick points out a line they now carry
to enable customers to grow their own
sprouts. With an increased awareness of their high nutritional content,
sprouts are becoming very popular.
There is a wide variety to choose from,
and they provide a welcome crunch to
any sandwich.
Incidentally, Anything Grows — From
Garden to Table puts out one of the best
newsletters that I have ever seen (all
killer, no filler!). They’re clever, homey
and chock-full of useful facts. Who knew
that carrots were originally white, purple
and yellow for example? Subscribe via
their equally clean website.
As I left the shop armed with my own
purchases (Allan steered me away from
my original choice of arugula, as he felt
another brand would serve my needs
better), I felt a sense of well-being
wash over me. It wasn’t because winter
was nearly over and there was a faint
sweetness in the air, or because Riley
— the canine-in-residence —kissed me
before I left; instead, I realized that it’s
because it is undeniably rewarding to
grow your own food, and doing something small just has to be better than
not doing anything at all.
Anything Grows
235 St Patrick Street, Stratford
519-272-1100
www.anythinggrows.com
hours of operation
monday to saturday: 9:30 am to 6 pm
sunday: 10 am to 5 pm
SUE SUTHERLAND WOOD is a freelance
writer who also works in the London Public Library
system. She lives in London with her teenage sons and
a floating population of dogs and cats.
May/June 2011
Stratford is
more than
great theatre.
“I made a delicious discovery: Stratford
has a culinary obsession. And, for me,
finding what I call a ‘food town’ is a rare
and magnificent thing ... You’ve got a
place that feeds all the senses.”
— Marion Kane, Food Writer
www.marionkane.com

may/june 2011
issue no. 29
Meet the
McCombs
For Sandra and Kevin McComb of
Camperdown Farms, the secret of
their success is in the soil. The Certified
Organic farming methods they’ve been
using since 1996 ensures the grass and
hay they raise their lambs on, and the
customized grain mixture they finish
feeding them with, produces the
finest tasting meat imaginable.
Their eggs and roasting chickens are
also renowned across Southwestern
Ontario. You’ll find the McCombs selling
their lamb at the Stratford Farmer’s
Market every Saturday.
We proudly connect Stratford chefs and
Perth County producers to create great
culinary experiences.
www.visitstratford.ca/local

www.eatdrink.ca 31
32
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
May/June 2011
may/june 2011
34
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
May/June 2011
RESTAURANTS
Savouring Serenity at Pinecroft
The Green Frog Tearoom, near Aylmer
By Debra Bagshaw
T
he Green Frog Tearoom at Pinecroft
near Aylmer is a destination with
many stories. There’s one behind
the pine forest setting, the cozy
building you will find yourself settling into,
the richly glazed pottery you will eat from,
and the down-to-earth menu that incorporates many dishes made from the bounty of
nearby farms.
After you park under a canopy of towering trees, you’ll make your way toward the
Gift Shop and Tea Room entrance, where
the scent of pine awakens your senses. Four
generations ago, Arthur Caverly, an avid
Muskoka hunter and fisherman, decided
to restore the depleted woodlot and create
for himself and wife Selma a little Muskoka,
complete with log cabins and trout pond.
Once inside the log Tea Room, it’s easy to
find yourself relaxing, surrounded by wood,
pottery and forest views. Though a homecooked luncheon is what often draws visitors to the country location, the restaurant’s
history is firmly rooted in that of the Pinecroft Pottery, which began here more than
60 years ago.
Pinecroft Beginnings
Arthur and Selma’s daughter, also named
Selma, met Jimmie Clennell following
World War II at a retraining program for
veterans. In a transition back to civilian
life, both Selma and Jimmie enrolled in Ceramic
Design at MacDonald
College in Ste-Anne-deBellevue, Quebec. Passionate about working
as potters, in 1948 they
moved their equipment
and supplies to one of
the little cabins back in
Aylmer, named their business Pinecroft, and were
married soon after.
The Green Frog Tea Room
Pottery of Enduring Charm
By the ’50s, Pinecroft pottery was available
in 200 gift shops, each piece bearing the
distinctive handwritten “Pinecroft, Aylmer,
Canada, Handmade” on the bottom. In the
’70s, Jimmie’s and Selma’s thoughts turned
towards retirement. In 1973, Brenda Caverly,
Jimmie and Selma’s niece, who had dem-
may/june 2011
issue no. 29
onstrated an interest and talent for pottery,
took a year’s sabbatical from her job with
the City of London to work at Pinecroft. She
never left.
Brenda (Caverly) Smith continues to produce fine pottery. The tableware has tactile,
aesthetic appeal that adds to the enjoyment
of the foods and beverages served within.
The Tea Room
The Green Frog Tea Room opened in 1978
as a celebration of Pinecroft’s 30th anniversary and to provide a little sustenance to
the groups who came to tour the pottery
works. The menu originally offered tea, muffins, and Selma’s little loaves of homemade
bread. Over the years, it has continued to
evolve and expand.
Much of the food comes from farms and
markets nearby. Regular menu items
include crisp salads, crêpes, old-fashioned
chicken & dumplings, sandwiches and
popular homemade mushroom soup, chockfull of mushrooms from a grower located
just down the road. Specials like asparagus
pie, rhubarb crisp, fresh strawberry soup,
chicken with blueberry red wine sauce,
and autumn pumpkin pear soup reflect the
changing seasons.
Over more than thirty years, Brenda’s
guiding philosophy for the Tea Room has
been “good food, well-prepared, fresh and
homemade” with inspiration from “what’s
available.” Strawberry season is a favourite
— a festival of soups, shortcake and crêpes.
Her family has been the test group for many
a recipe trialed and tweaked to perfection.
Generous portions are well-presented and
enticingly garnished.
As owners of the Tea Room, Pottery, and
Bed & Breakfast, Brenda and husband Paul
Smith continue the Pinecroft tradition, along
www.eatdrink.ca 35
with children Chad and Sarah. Over the years,
Paul has built tearooms, expanded the pottery studio, and, says Brenda, “kept everything running.” Today, Chad and Sarah have
taken on much of the responsibility of operating the Tea Room, although Paul still makes
the famous little bread loaves each morning.
The evolution of Pinecroft continues. On
their 60th anniversary in 2008, Paul initiated
The Smith family, on the Pinecroft grounds
jamming sessions with friends in one of the
original cabins on the property. The Jammin’ in the Cabin Gang of area musicians
now meets Saturdays and Sundays from 1
to 4 p.m. to make music in the cabin or, in
nice weather, from the newly built stage. Just
across the pond, past the “Green Frog,” the
art and love of music now join happily with
that of pottery and food.
Green Frog Tearoom at Pinecroft
8122 Rogers Road, RR 5, Aylmer
519-773-3435
www.pinecroft.ca
DEBRA BAGSHAW is a frequent
contributor to eatdrink and the editor of Relish
Elgin (www.relishelgin.ca).
Photos by PHILIP J. BELL, Shutter Studios,
St. Thomas.
36
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
BOOKS
The Taste of Place
American Terroir: Savoring the Flavors
of Our Woods, Waters, and Fields
by Rowan Jacobsen
Review By Darin Cook
I
dentifying flavours based on where food
comes from is a concept that originated
in France, with regional wines. The
French call it terroir, meaning that the
taste of place adds something unique to
certain foods. Terroir has become a broader
culinary concept, as Rowan Jacobsen
elaborates on in American Terroir: Savoring
the Flavors of Our Woods, Waters, and Fields
(Bloomsbury, 2010, $31.00). He writes: “If
you want to tour the museum of old terroir
masterpieces, go to France and Italy. If you
want to visit the galleries where new artists
are trying new things, look around America.”
From the southern tip of Panama to the
northern reaches of Alaska, this book covers an entire continent. Maple syrup, coffee,
apples, honey, potatoes, mushrooms, oysters, avocados, salmon, wine, cheese, and
chocolate take on elevated stature. HighMountain Maple Syrup of Vermont or Totten
Inlet Oysters of Puget Sound, for example,
become “great foods that are what they are
because of where they come from.”
Terroir can be attributed to a region’s
microclimate, most notably soil with high
mineral content, but also water, air, temperature, rock formations, altitude, and
wind. The
red-tinted
soil of P.E.I.
not only
provides
ideal conditions for
potatoes, but also bleeds into the Atlantic
Ocean to encourage algae growth that nourishes mussels along the shore. Terroir in the
world of coffee relies heavily on altitude —
the higher the coffee bean trees grow, the
better quality coffee will result. Based on
accolades for outstanding taste, as well as a
record-breaking price of $130 per pound at a
2007 auction, the best coffee in the market is
Esmeralda Special, grown at altitudes nearing 5,000 feet in Panama at the Hacienda la
Esmeralda estate. For the vastness of terroir
in honey, we can thank the bees that collect nectar from hundreds of flowers within
a three-mile flying radius of their hive, to
give honey different floral notes based on
its geography. Even volcanoes have contributed to the taste of apples; when Mount
St. Helens erupted in 1980, the ash covering
Yakima Valley in Washington acted as super
fertilizer and created the best crop ever for
EXPERIENCE OUR MENU, INSPIRED BY THE REGION
OF CALABRIA IN SOUTHERN ITALY. WE OFFER THE
FRESHEST INGREDIENTS, CONTINENTAL FARE AND
A VARIETY OF DELECTABLE WINES.
TEL 519.601.0960
691 RICHMOND ST
www.trichilos.ca
may/june 2011
Harmony Orchard, which grows the world’s
top varieties of organic apples.
The elements may govern terroir, but the
human response to natural processes and
the partnership with the landscape allow it
to work — sugarbush owners tap sap from
maple trees and beekeepers draw honey
from hives. The most memorable human
in Jacobsen’s quest to seek out terroir was
one he met on a foraging expedition. A true
woodsman, Francois Brouillard practices
forest gastronomy in Quebec. Brouillard
lives off the land and offers only those foods
in his restaurant, Les Jardins Sauvages. After
a few days with Brouillard, the author realizes “how narrow the modern palate has
become. The handful of plants that comprise
most American diets have not been chosen
because they are particularly compelling,
but because they are convenient.”
The two words in the English translation are “taste” and “place,” but there is an
economic side to terroir as well. Jacobsen
writes: “For terroir to be more than a whim,
it has to answer the question, ‘What does
this landscape do best?’ And the market
must be knowledgeable enough to support
that, to be willing to pay enough for superior
foods to keep the producers in business.”
Vermont cheese makers know their land is
excellent for sustaining cows, so they focus
on cheese made from cows’ milk, staying away from inferior product made with
the milk of goats or sheep, which take on
their own superiority in other regions. An
interesting twist that Jacobsen uncovered
in his investigation of Vermont cheeses is
that terroir in France is in decline, just as
American terroir is on the rise. As Americans
turn more to artisanal methods of producing food, the younger French generation is
being seduced by supermarket chains.
There is a certain pride to the close-tohome philosophy of terroir, and it is most
successful when citizens support local
varieties, but when you find yourself travelling, Jacobsen’s book acts as a very readable
reference to the map of flavours offered in
regional locations across North America.
DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who keeps himself
well-read and well-fed by visiting the bookstores and
restaurants of London.
Unparalleled Elegance.
Historic Charm.
Culinary Delight.
fresh, seasonal cuisine
open for breakfast,
lunch and dinner
a la carte sunday brunch
3 6 G R A N D AV E N U E
L O N D O N , O N TA R I O
WWW.IDLEWYLDINN.COM
38
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issue no. 29
May/June 2011
COOKBOOKS
A Delicious Blend of
Family, Food & Festival
The Harrow Fair Cookbook
By Moira Sanders, Lori Elstone and Beth Goslin
Maloney, with photography by Mike McColl
Review and Recipe Selections by Jennifer Gagel
S
hake off the last bit of cabin fever and
plan to celebrate everything summer
has to offer with The Harrow Fair
Cookbook. Sisters Moira Sanders and
Lori Elstone and their cousin, Beth Goslin
Maloney, have put five generations of love
into compiling this cookbook. Together they
have captured the essence of the region and
compiled the best recipes from its annual
Harrow Fair. (Harrow is a small community in the south of Essex County, situated
between Amherstburg and Leamington. This
year will see the 157th Fair).
“This cookbook is a collection of fun, delicious recipes that reflect summer, family
get-togethers, and the Harrow Fair,” they say
in the introduction. And they would know
— for five generations they have lived and
loved in Essex County. Also known as “The
Sun Parlor of Canada,” the region shares a
latitude with northern California and the
Tuscan region of Italy. This temperate climate encourages livestock, wineries, and an
abundance of produce, all of which come to
a celebratory culmination at the
annual Harrow Fair.
Every Labour Day weekend, the ladies
reunite with family and friends for the fourday Fair. This cookbook holds the recipes
that have won the first-place ribbons, and
without which family functions would not
be the same. The recipe selection embodies
a philosophy that is truly “local and seasonal, natural, traditional and unprocessed.”
Packed with luscious pictures of dishes to
suit picnics, barbecues, breakfasts, or long
summer evenings, the book is as bountiful
as the fair.
The Seven-Strata Salad is deceptively
simple for the amazing combinations
bursting in your mouth. Crunchy, soft,
crisp, savoury, slightly sweet — this salad
has it all. The mayo with herb pesto makes
a versatile dressing to marry all these ingredients together. Even without the ideal
presentation bowl, this salad will make
people smile with delight at the first bite.
may/june 2011
It’s perfect to bring to a party, as it benefits
from time to sit.
Fire up the grill for Marinated Lamb Skewers (though in a pinch, broiling also gives
delectable results). Bits of onion and pepper
with caramelized edges alternate sweetly
with tender morsels of lamb. Even after
only two hours of marinating, the herbs and
spices seep into the tender meat, complementing the lamb beautifully. These cook
up beautifully in the short time directed, as
overcooked lamb has a distinctive taste most
people do not enjoy.
The Strawberries and Cream Roll is an
example of a decadent way to celebrate
strawberry season. The macerated strawberry juices run into the pillows of whipped
cream, with the tender cake soaking it up
and holding it all together. If rolling the cake
is deterring you, simply slice it in thirds and
stack with layers of strawberries and cream.
However, rolling it with a damp towel works
just as specified in the recipe.
This cookbook is a collection of tried-andtrue recipes that deliver impressive results
every time, but are realistic and flexible
enough to have fun with all year long. Included
in its glossy pages are numerous tips on freezing and preserving, along with recipes for
jams, sauces, pickles and relishes, as well as
suggestions for dishes to try them in.
Anna Olson of FoodTV, who knows the
authors, writes in the book’s foreword, “Their
hearts are so connected to Essex County, to
their family roots, and to the need to share
the traditions that give country fairs their
worth, and I admire and respect those qualities that are so effortlessly ingrained in them.”
Enjoy the traditions of the past today,
because an inspired party season starts
effortlessly with the Harrow Fair Cookbook.
JENNIFER GAGEL writes freelance and can be
contacted at jennagagel@gmail.com.
Recipes courtesy of The Harrow Fair Cookbook (2010, Whitecap
Books, $29.95), by Moira Sanders, Lori Elstone and Beth Goslin
Maloney. Photography by Mike McColl.
www.theharrowfaircookbook.com
Continued next page ...
For Great Local Organic Food
Meet Wa
War
arr
rren
Community Shared
Agriculture
Your share gives you a bin of
Fresh Delicious Organic Vegetables
delivered from our farm to your
fork once a week this summer,
starting mid-June.
Your choice of Local Food:
t,FFQTUIFOVUSJFOUTBOEGSFTIUBTUFMPOHFS
t3FEVDFTDIFNJDBMVTFJOPVSFOWJSPONFOU
t3FEVDFTZPVSGPPENJMF
tDBSCPOGPPUQSJOU
t4VQQPSUTGBSNGBNJMJFT
tUIFMPDBMFDPOPNZ
See how it works at
www.csaaugustsharvest.com
or call 519 393 5550
40
www.eatdrink.ca
Seven-Strata Salad
This great-tasting, great-looking salad is always the
most popular item at summer picnics. And it’s a
cinch to make.
Serves 6 to 8.
4 cups (1 L) loosely packed baby spinach
1 tsp (5 mL) fine sea salt
1/2 tsp (2 mL) freshly ground black pepper
6 large eggs, hard-boiled and cut into 1/4-inch (6
mm) slices
1/2 lb (250 g) bacon, diced and cooked until crispy
3 cups (750 mL) fresh green peas, blanched
3/4 cup (185 mL) finely chopped red onion
3/4 cup (185 mL) mayonnaise (page 85)
1/4 cup (60 mL) herb pesto (page 17)
1 cup (250 mL) shredded aged Canadian cheddar
cheese
1 Place the spinach in an 8-inch (20 cm) straightsided, clear glass bowl. Place the egg slices on
the spinach and sprinkle with half of the salt
and pepper, then place the cooked bacon on
the eggs.
2 Add layers of peas and onion. Sprinkle the onion
with the remaining salt and pepper.
3 Mix together the mayonnaise and herb pesto in
a small bowl. Spread the mixture evenly on the
onion. Sprinkle the cheese evenly on the mayonnaise.
4 Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up
to 24 hours before serving.
Storage: Store any leftover salad, covered, in the
refrigerator for up to 3 days.
may/june 2011
issue no. 29
www.eatdrink.ca 41
Marinated Lamb Skewers
Makes 12 skewers.
This marinade is based on a Middle Eastern herb
and spice mixture called charmoula. The lamb
skewers make for a great summer dinner when
served with our bulgur salad.
MARINADE
1⁄3 cup (80 mL) fresh lemon juice
½ cup (125 mL) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
½ cup (125 mL) chopped fresh cilantro
4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
2½ tsp (12 mL) fine sea salt
2 tsp (10 mL) ground cumin
1 tsp (5 mL) ground coriander
1 tsp (5 mL) paprika
½ tsp (2 mL) cayenne pepper
½ cup (125 mL) extra virgin olive oil
SKEWERS
2 lb (1 kg) boneless leg of lamb, cut into 1-inch
(2.5 cm) cubes
2 sweet red peppers, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
1 red onion, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
For the Marinade
1 Place all the ingredients except the olive oil in a
food processor and blend until a smooth paste is
created. Add the oil and mix until thoroughly combined.
2 Pour the mixture over the lamb cubes, tossing
thoroughly until all the lamb is covered. Marinate,
covered, in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours and
up to 24 hours.
Assembly
3 Soak twelve 8-inch (20 cm) wooden skewers in hot
water for 30 minutes before using.
4 Skewer pieces of lamb alternately with pieces of
pepper and onion.
5 Preheat the grill. Grill the lamb for 3 minutes per
side or until medium-rare. Serve immediately.
42
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issue no. 29
May/June 2011
Strawberries & Cream Roll
Our cousin Beth’s birthday falls in the middle of our
local strawberry season. The Strawberries & Cream
Roll — a light sponge cake rolled around fresh strawberries and whipped cream — is what her mom used
to make for her every year. It’s still her favourite.
Makes one great birthday cake!
CAKE
1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose flour
1 tsp (5 mL) baking powder
¼ tsp (1 mL) fine sea salt
3 large eggs
1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
1⁄3 cup (80 mL) water
1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract
½ cup (125 mL) icing sugar (for kitchen towel)
FILLING
3 cups (750 mL) diced fresh strawberries
2 Tbsp (30 mL) granulated sugar
2 cups (500 mL) whipping cream
¼ cup (60 mL) icing sugar
GARNISH
Fresh strawberries
may/june 2011
1 Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a 15 x 10 x
1-inch (38 x 25 x 2.5 cm) baking sheet with parchment paper.
LAVENDER BLUE
is now
2 Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt
in a medium-sized bowl.
3 Beat the eggs for 5 minutes at high speed in
the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment. Slowly add the sugar and beat for
1 minute. Beat in the water and vanilla until
combined. Gradually add the dry ingredients,
beating just until smooth.
growers & creators of fine lavender products
DISCOVER
4 Pour the batter onto the baking sheet, spreading evenly. Bake for 12 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the centre of the cake comes
out clean.
Steed & Company Lavender, part of a
45-acre horse farm just outside of Sparta
5 While the cake is baking, sprinkle ½ cup (125 mL)
icing sugar on a clean kitchen towel.
ESCAPE
6 Remove the cake from the oven and loosen it
from the edges of the pan. Cover the cake with
the kitchen towel that has been sprinkled with
icing sugar. Carefully invert the cake and towel
onto a countertop. Remove the parchment
paper and trim any dry edges, if necessary.
Annu
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LAVENDal
47589 Sparta Line, Sparta
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June 25-2
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Open Wed-Sat 10-5; Sun 12-4
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7 While the cake is still hot, carefully roll the cake
in the towel, starting from a narrow end. Let the
cake cool for at least 45 minutes on a baking rack.
INDULGE
in our unique handcrafted lavender products
in the wonderful scent
and calming powers of lavender
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Roasts | Chops & Steaks | Tenderloin | Ribs | Sausage | Bacon & More!
8 While the cake is cooling, mix the strawberries
with the 2 Tbsp (30 mL) granulated sugar. Set
aside to macerate (soften by soaking).
9 Unroll the cake and remove the towel. Spread
the whipped cream over the cake. Scatter the
strawberries evenly on top of the whipped
cream. Carefully re-roll the cake and place it on a
large serving platter. Sprinkle with icing sugar.
10 Cut into thick slices. Garnish with fresh strawberries.
Home Delivery
for BBQ Season!
Note: If strawberries aren’t in season, replace them
with 1 cup (250 mL) strawberry jam. When assembling the cake, put the jam on the cake first, then
add the whipped cream.
Great Tasting
Conveniently Vacuum-packed
Freshly Frozen
Gluten and MSG Free
CQA Certified
Online ordering with FREE DELIVERY
www.thewholepig.ca
OR Phone Orders: 519-851-3327
44
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 27
january/February 2011
COOKBOOKS
Building Blocks of Learning
Start in the Kitchen
By Jennifer Gagel
The Learning Disabilities Association of
London Region (LDA) is a not-for-profit
agency that helps people with learning disabilities reach their potential. Their motto
is “the right to learn, the power to achieve,”
and they have come up with a tasty way to
raise funds, the Food for Thought cookbook
(2011, LDA-London Region, $20).
“Food for Thought was a fun idea to connect food with learning,” says Tracy Fawdry,
Executive Director of the LDA.
Most of the volunteers, board members,
staff and participants of LDA programs
got together and submitted their favourite
recipes, and so the cookbook is an eclectic,
80-page treasury of their varied tastes and
styles. Also included is a section called “London’s Best Eats,” with contributions from
many of London’s finest restaurants, such as
The Windermere Manor, David’s Bistro, and
Blackfriars Bistro and Catering.
Whether old standbys or innovative creations, the dishes use nutritious and accessible ingredients that are readily available
or easy to find. And no cookbook would be
complete without a generous selection of
desserts — food must be nutritious for the
soul, too.
The Salmon Teriyaki is an excellent
example of a minimal-fuss recipe with delicious results. Cook some rice while the fillet
is marinating and dress peppery watercress
in a slightly sweet dressing, like a honeymustard vinaigrette or creamy poppyseed.
Also easy to prepare is the versatile mango
salsa, a brightly flavoured condiment or dip
that people can’t get enough of on tacos or
nacho chips. Try it with Ancho chili pepper
for a low, smokey heat or Thai chilies for a
sharper burst.
Because the contributions are so varied,
this cookbook makes a great selection for
burgeoning cooks looking to try new things
or for experienced cooks looking to have
some fun.
Food for
Thought is the
LDA’s first cookbook, promotes
learning both in
the kitchen and
throughout the
London area.
The Food for Thought
cookbook is available at many locations in
London, including the LDA office at 333 Horton Street, Jill’s
Table at 115 King Street, Kingsmill’s of London Kitchen Shop,
and the Oxford Learning Centre at 747 Hyde Park Road, #230.
See www.ldalondon.ca for a complete listing.
JENNIFER GAGEL writes freelance and can be
contacted at jennagagel@gmail.com.
Recipe courtesy of Food for Thought
Salmon Teriyaki
8 oz. (225-250 g) salmon fillet
2 tbsp (25 mL) low-sodium soy sauce
½ cup (125 mL) minced scallions (chives can be
substituted)
1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped fresh ginger
Garlic (to taste)
Whisk together soy sauce, ginger, scallions/chives,
and garlic in a non-metallic bowl.
Place salmon fillet in a shallow dish and cover with
soy-ginger sauce.
Marinate for 30 minutes.
Cover baking sheet with foil.
Place fish on foil and top with remaining marinade.
Broil until cooked in centre (turn fillet once).
ED note: Broil fish for 10 minutes per inch of thickness, turning once if fish is more than 1 inch (2.5
cm) thick.
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venues have a cover charge; Cruise Holidays
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Epic won USA Today’s Readers Choice
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46
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
May/June 2011
TRAVEL
Live and Uncorked
A Visit from The Surreal Gourmet and The Thirsty Traveler
By Darin Cook
W
hen Bob Blumer and Kevin
Brauch rolled into town for
their Live & Uncorked tour,
Londoners found out firsthand that, without television cameras on
them, Food Network stars tend to let loose
a bit. Blumer and Brauch have been fixtures
on Food Network since its inception, but this
live performance was
an irreverent, uncensored, behind-thescenes look at their
culinary careers, with
alcohol flowing generously and four-letter
words flying freely.
Brauch started
the show by entering to the Star Wars
theme song, draped
in a Jagermeister cape, with a Budweiser in
hand. He stumbled toward the stage, assuring the crowd it was only his first beer of the
night, apologizing that there wasn’t much of
a script for his portion of the show. But his
track record as an ad-lib performer speaks
for itself. After years of tending bar to support himself through journalism school,
Brauch first landed in the television circuit
on educational children’s shows. In 2001,
he became a professional drinker as The
Thirsty Traveler, sampling alcohol from different cultures, everything from screech in
Newfoundland to raki in Istanbul. He also
holds the title of floor reporter on Iron Chef
America, alongside culinary giants like
Mario Batali and Bobby Flay.
Far away from the flashiness of Kitchen
Stadium, Brauch
shared shots of Victoria gin and Iceberg
vodka with the audience. He then pulled
out a full bottle of
Champagne and a
large knife, hoping he
wasn’t setting himself up for a Carrot
Top skit gone wrong.
But he successfully
demonstrated sabrage (the ceremonious
technique of opening a bottle of Champagne
by sliding a knife along the body and cleanly
separating the cork and the collar from the
neck). And I should mention that he did it
between his legs and blindfolded. Just to
show off.
As he pounded back beer, champagne,
gin, whiskey, and vodka, one audience
member asked if he had a cure for hang-
may/june 2011
issue no. 29
overs. Brauch’s reply was, “Denial and voodoo.” And of course, someone who drinks for
a living was eager to suggest hair of the dog.
When Blumer came on stage, the audience
was reminded that nobody is more enthusiastic about having fun with food than the guy
famously known for converting an Airstream
trailer into the Toastermobile for his first
show, The Surreal Gourmet. Blumer’s most
recent claim to fame is breaking several foodrelated world records on Glutton for Punishment. His name appears in the Guinness
Book for outrageous stunts, such as making
559 pancakes in one hour. When asked if he
was looking to hold the record for the most
Guinness records, he said, “No, there’s a guy
who has over a hundred. I’ve got seven now
and I’m over that part of the show.” Although
he did tell the audience about a project he is
considering to make the world’s biggest Caesar salad, using a giant hot tub as the bowl
and cement mixers to stir the dressing.
Blumer was very interactive with the
audience, including his demonstration of
cooking a fresh dish of pasta and vegetables
faster than a volunteer could heat a can of
Spaghetti-o’s. We also got a taste of his quirky
www.eatdrink.ca 47
take on food with bright pink cupcakes that
were salmon cakes baked in muffin tins and
topped with icing made of mashed potatoes
stained pink with beet juice. The culmination
of the night was Blumer’s re-creation of his
world records. With Brauch as their mischievous coach, three audience members competed against Blumer by cracking eggs with
one hand, cutting onions, and eating grains of
rice with chopsticks. Blumer holds the record
for all: 2,071 eggs cracked with one hand in
one hour, 50 pounds of onions peeled in 2
minutes and 39 seconds, and 134 single grains
of rice eaten with chopsticks in three minutes.
Based on their stories from the culinary
world, it became clear that these celebrity
foodies live more charmed lives than most.
They may be working on their television
shows and on the stage, but their work
involves a lot of play, which provided a
raucous and quirky evening of high-energy
antics with Blumer’s food and Brauch’s drink.
DARIN COOK is a freelance writer and regular contributor to eatdrink.
“Reasonably priced, fresh,
well-executed Ethiopian cuisine ...”
— Bryan Lavery, eatdrink magazine
7FHFUBSJBO0QUJPOTt5BLFPVUt$BUFSJOH
48
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
May/June 2011
NEW AND NOTABLE
The BUZZ
A
re your taste buds tingling in anticipation? It’s
time to savour the flavours: fresh from farms
and gardens, local asparagus, lettuce, spinach, fiddleheads and more are (or soon will
be) showing up on market displays and restaurant menus.
Go forth and indulge.
On May 17, The Arts Project (www.artsproject.ca)will
launch Hungry Hearts: A Travel and Food Odyssey,
1968–69, featuring 40 colour photographs from David
Lindsay while launching Ann McColl Lindsay’s highly
anticipated book Hungry Hearts, a culinary memoir of
the European trip she and David took via camper van, with
journal entries, recipes and photos. The opening reception
will run from 7-9 pm, and the photo exhibit will continue
until May 21. The book will be available at a number of
retailers, including Oxford Books and Jill’s Table.
Andrew Fleet is getting the younger crowd in the mood
already. The director of Growing Chefs! Ontario was
Your love of all things Italian begins at
excited to launch the 2011 Classroom Gardening Project in
April, and now chefs and community volunteers from all
across London are working with elementary school classes
to help students grow and cook their own vegetables right
in their classrooms.
The Classroom Gardening Project is sponsored by
local businesses and organizations who share the belief
that healthy food education programming is a necessary
step in improving the eating habits of our children and
combating childhood obesity.
You can kick in too, by supporting the sponsors, who
include Bowl-A-Rama on Thompson, Jill’s Table,
Kiwanis Club of Forest City–London, The London
Chapter of the Canadian Culinary Federation (CCFCC),
Slow Food London, APK Live and 379 Collective.
There’s lots going on at Covent Garden Market in London. Chef Nicole Arroyas of Auberge du Petit Prince
will be opening a crêperie (expect to see it sometime in
May), called Petit Paris. Phone number will be 519-433-
Massey’s
LONDON, ONTARIO
Fine Indian
Cuisine DAILY
Lunch
174 King St. London B
uffet
d
Closedays 519 672 2989
Mon
www.masseys.ca
may/june 2011
0647. When construction on the website is complete, you
will find it at www.petit-paris.ca.
In the meantime, head down to the Market on May 28. The
Rotary Club of London Hyde Park invites you and your
family to join them for a pancake breakfast, served from
7 to 11 am. Volunteers, along with some surprise celebrity
chefs, will be preparing a hearty breakfast of pancakes,
bacon and drinks. Proceeds will support local Rotary
charities and Rotholme Women’s & Family Shelter, a
division of Mission Services of London.
The Outdoor Farmer’s Market at CGM is now up and
running for the season. Enjoy the offerings and the atmosphere of the market on Thursdays and Saturdays, from 8
a.m. to 1 p.m., through to November.
The Market Kitchen, upstairs at CGM, welcomes adults
(55+) every Tuesday morning from 10 o’clock, for an informal gathering and the opportunity to enjoy refreshments
and make new acquaintances. No membership required
— just drop in.
Londoner Debbie Mackey’s spicy inspiration led to the
founding of Hyde Park Spice & Herb Co., an exclusive
and inviting high-quality spice & herb destination. Offering
only fresh organic and natural products, with affordability
in mind, her products are hand-selected from around the
globe. First priority is given to certified organic and fair trade
products that are guaranteed fresh, which are bottled and
blended locally. Special requests are welcomed, whether
you’re a “seasoned” chef or just beginning to experiment in
the kitchen. The full compliment is available Saturdays at the
Western Fair Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market, with products also available at the historic Arva Flour Mill. Visit www.
hydeparkspice.com or call 519-281-HERB (4372).
Ontario Craft Brewers (OCB) are pleased to announce
the second annual Ontario Craft Beer Week, a celebration of the province’s thriving, locally-based craft beer
industry. Launching Father’s Day, festivities will run June
19–25. OCB is the association representing over 25 small,
independent craft brewers in Ontario. Ontario Craft Beer
Week will feature a series of special events designed to
expose consumers to the craft beer experience with tasting events, brewery tours, cooking demonstrations, food
pairings, beer dinners, and much more. Activities will take
place in breweries, restaurants, bars and outdoor venues
throughout the province.
Coming soon, look for an eat/buy local initiative called
London’s Local Flavour. This initiative is designed to
encourage Farmers Market vendors and their customers to
support local farmers and culinary regionalism, by highlighting those who showcase products and ingredients
that are sourced locally, regionally or in Ontario.
London’s Celebration Destination
28
May/June 2011
Western Fair Farmers’ and Artisans Market brings
in local farmers and producers with speciality crops and
seasonal ingredients. The outdoor component at the
Western Fair will open to the public May 11th or earlier
if the weather allows. The Market will be adding a fresh
fish vendor to the mix of vendors in the coming weeks,
with lots of local product such as fresh perch, pickerel and
whitefish in season.
The Masonville Farmers’ Market will be open every
Friday & Saturday, 8am-2pm, starting May 13/14th, until
mid-October. Located in the north west parking lot at
Masonville Place Mall. This producer-based market
features seasonal produce and products from over 40 farmers, growers and culinary artisans.
Congratula
2011 Gradu tions,
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In St. Thomas, the Horton Farmers’ Market is opening
Saturday, May 8th and every Saturday until November,
from 8 am until noon. Located on Manitoba Street, half
a block North from Talbot Street, this community-driven
market has been committed to providing fresh products
from local producers to St. Thomas and area since 1878.
Both pavilions are open with an added feature to this
year’s market is a sit-down Gravel Cafe, where you can
sit back and enjoy baked goods and beverages from local
chefs and bakers. All farmers live in Elgin County or within
60 km of the Horton Farmers’ Market site.
The new Southdale Farmers’ & Artisans’ Market will
open June 12th, and operate every Sunday, from 9 am to
2 pm, until Thanksgiving Day Weekend (Oct 9). Located at
the corner of Adelaide and Southdale Road.
The Talbotville Farmers Market and Flea Market opened
May 1st, featuring “Organic Row” and Bakery Alley. Saturdays
and Sundays till Thanksgiving weekend, 8 am–4 pm.
"-8":4B
3-course
prix fixe
menu
option
432 Richmond St.
BU$BSMJOHt-POEPO
FREE PARKING
After 6 pm off Queens Ave
www.davidsbistro.ca
Opening soon, The WORKS, Ottawa’s original and awardwinning, gourmet burger bistro since 2001, will soon be
offering Londoners the ultimate gourmet burger experience. Located across from the Covent Garden Market in
the premises formerly occupied by Patty’s, at 145 King
Street. Made from 100 per cent extra lean Canadian beef
sourced from local producers, The WORKS’ classic beef
patties are fresh, never frozen, and hand pressed in-house
daily. On the grill, they are cooked to exact specifications
for 20 minutes without prodding or pinching. Just like a
steak, Guests can choose a classic gourmet beef patty,
organic beef or domestic elk, or opt for their choice of
whole grilled chicken breast, turkey patty or Portobello
mushroom cap. There are over 60 varieties of burgers on
offer. WORKS offers 100 per cent Canadian crispy, golden
fresh cut fries and thick, classic shakes. Canadian domestic
and microbrews are available on tap. The WORKS has many
vegetarian options.
may/june 2011
Also new in Downtown London, Marky’s Crepes and
Waffles offer a wide variety of savoury and sweet Belgian
waffles & French crepes. A diverse variety of interesting
toppings are available: fresh fruit, organic vegetables, and
meat. Marky’s specialize in healthy and fresh, daily-made
selections. Incorporating unique nutritious touches like
adding flax seeds and using local seasonal produce. Seating is limited to several stools along the front of the shop,
but the owners ensure that their creations can easily be
ordered for take-out (145 King Street). 484 Richmond
Street at Dufferin. (Formerly the Ian Bansie Hair salon,
next to Stobie’s Pizza.)
After a terribly long winter, Al Fresco Dining is finally
getting underway again in London.
Since Terianne and David Brebner, along with Terianne’s brother Frank Trichilo and his wife Linda opened
Trichilo’s 5 months ago on Richmond Row, we continue to
hear great reports about the Calabrian-inspired cuisine. Chef
Kent Cherevaty began his culinary career at Arowhon
Pines in Algonquin Park. After stints in Stratford and Canoe
in Toronto, Cherevaty has been behind the stove at Trichiolo’s.
The large terrace will be among the most interesting places
in the city for al fresco dining this summer.
And don’t forget the nicely appointed terrace at the
country French-inspired Auberge du Petit Prince. The
Billy’s
Deli Restaurant
Strawberry Frenzy
Coming Soon!
113 Dundas St @ Talbot
519-679-1970
Breakfast or Lunch
Tues−Sat: 7:30am−3pm
Sunday: 9am−2pm
www.billysdelirestaurant.ca
Lunch
specials
STARTING AT
UT &
TAKE-ORING
CATE ILABLE
VA
nOW A
Free Parking Available
$5
ATM
0O4JUF
855 Wellington Road South, London
.POEBZ'SJEBZ0QFOďČĉBNt4BUVSEBZ0QFOĐBNt4VOEBZ0QFOđBN
52
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
terrace seats 30, right next to the restaurant’s enclosed
verandah, whose windows open to the outside in good
weather. The piece de resistance: Try Chef Nicole Arroya’s
delicious classic croque monsieur.
Another al fresco gem for prestige dining is on the beautifully appointed Indonesian-style courtyard garden at black
trumpet. Chef David van den Driesschen cooks contemporary classics with bold Mediterranean and Asian flavours.
The Church Key Bistro -Pub’s courtyard is another
great spot for delicious cuisine, casual cocktails or dinner
pre-and-post theatre. Their Ploughman’s Lunch is a
perennial favourite.
The Marienbad Restaurant and Chaucer’s Pub
have a sidewalk courtyard that exudes old world charm
and is perfect for quaffing a craft beer or one of their
delectable Austro-Germanic culinary specialties. The Steak
Tartare is a local legend.
On King Street‘s restaurant row, the patios at Gambrinus
Bistro and Café and Waldo‘s on King’s are desirable
choices on event nights — perfect for people watching.
The Idelwyld Inn, nestled in London’s Old South, has an
elegant Garden Courtyard which seats 40. This gem serves
breakfast, lunch and dinner and a wonderful Sunday Brunch.
Other local hot spots for Sunday Brunch are:
Blackfriars Bistro, The Raja, Billy’s Deli, Delta
Armouries and The Grill Room at the London Hilton.
May/June 2011
The Old Prune, one of Stratford’s premier restaurants and
a Stratford Chefs School teaching location, has been
sold to Bill and Shelley Windsor and Randy Simpson,
owners of Best Western’s The Parlour Historic Inn
& Suites in Stratford. The new owners plan to retain
senior staff, chef de cuisine Bryan Steele, and restaurant
manager Peter Lavoie. Eleanor Kane, cofounder of the
Stratford Chefs School, who co-owned the Prune with
partner Marion Isherwood, says, “We’re very gratified
that something we worked so hard at will be in very good
hands. We have no doubt it will continue to flourish.”
vvvvvvvvvAlso in Stratford, discover why the shape of
your glass matters just as much as what’s in it. Bradshaws
will present a Reidel Wine Tasting Event at The Church
Restaurant. Riedel CEO and 11th generation of the Riedel
glassmaking dynasty, Maximilian J. Riedel, will demonstrate how the shape of your wine glass can enhance or
detract from its flavour and enjoyment. Each guest will take
home four Vinum XL wine stems valued at $150, enjoy four
delicious wines, and sample locally inspired canapés from The
Church Restaurant. Proceeds from this event will be donated
to Gallery Stratford and Savour Stratford Perth County
Culinary Festival.
Wednesday May 18, 2011, at The Church Restaurant,
70 Brunswick Street, Stratford. For tickets, please call
Bradshaws + Kitchen Detail at 519-271-6283, or contact
Stratford Tourism at 519-271-5140.
may/june 2011
issue no. 29
Stratford Tourism is offering a brand-new “Shop with the
Chef” culinary package. During a visit to the Stratford Farmers’ Market, the chef and guest will choose local ingredients
and instructions for a meal prepared by the chef and guest.
Take your taste buds for a culinary adventure with a guided
culinary walking tour featuring the stops on the Edible Stratford Tour. The first edition of the Chocolate Trail was overwhelmingly popular, so a second edition has been launched
(featuring some retailers new to town, or new to the Trail), and
is sure to delight chocolate lovers! The Stratford Chocolate Trail
pass can be purchased online or at Stratford Tourism Alliance
(47 Downie Street). The $20 pass (plus HST) entitles the bearer
to choose 8 of 21 stops on a self-guided tour and enjoy “tastings” worth over $40 in value. The Stratford Chocolate Trail is
offered year-round and is valid for three days from purchase.
McCully’s Hill Farm, just outside St. Marys, is conducting
their popular Day Camps again this summer (July 11-15
and August 15-19,9 am–4 pm daily). Led by creative,
enthusiastic and caring youth and adults, the hands-on
activities geared for 5-10 year olds offer a comprehensive
farm experience. For more info, go to www.mccullys.ca or
call 519-284-2564 or 1-866-622-8559.
Community Garden plots are also available again
this year. Members of the public are welcome to garden
for free, save giving a small portion of your harvest to
McCully’s for market. Call for more information.
www.eatdrink.ca 53
Jason Persall at Pristine Gourmet of Waterford tells
us that they have Canadian-grown quinoa in stock. This
healthy ancient grain is full of protein, dietary fibre and
amino acids, and is gluten-free. Packaged in 5-lb bags.
Visit their website at www.pristinegourmet.com.
And don’t forget to check out Jason’s videos online at
The Gourmet Farmer. This year’s shows will include fishing on Lake Erie and a visit to the first biodynamic winery
in Ontario. www.youtube.com/user/TheGourmetFarmer
Lavender Blue of Sparta has changed its name. But
Steed & Co. Lavender still offers the same lovely lavender products. Save the date for their Annual Lavender
Festival: June 25 & 26. It’s a beautiful destination for a
drive in the country.
Early this year, a stellar roster of knowledgeable, influential
judges determined the award winners in the 2011 Ontario Finest Meat Competition. Congratulations to Gerhard Metzger
and the crew at Metzger’s Meat Products. Metzger won the
top award for best side bacon in Ontario. He also won the silver
award for best cold cuts with his broccoli pork roast.
Looking for diversions? Check out the Shakespeare to
the Shoreline Taste Trek webpage at www.shakespearetotheshoreline.ca. The treks and day-trip suggestions will help you get out to walk the broad main streets
of the Victorian-era villages in Perth and Huron Counties.
Giving You More Reasons
to Shop Locally
western fair farmers’ & artisans’ market
The Heart of Old East Village
Organic and Local Produce ❤ Bakers ❤ Butchers ❤ Cheesemongers ❤ Flowers
Food Artisans ❤ Artists ❤ Craftspeople ❤ Flea & Antique Market
Plenty of Free Parking
Every Saturday 8am-3pm
519-438-5942
www.londonsfarmersmarket.ca
Dundas Street East at Ontario Street
54
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
Bayfield’s Black Dog Village Pub & Bistro is a VQA Restaurant Award of Excellence Gold recipient. This award, from the
Wine County Ontario organization, recognizes restaurants
that feature VQA Ontario wines as 75 percent or more of their
wine list. The Black Dog was also featured in a recent edition
of LCBO’s Food and Drink magazine.
Check out the new roof (from Diamond Steel Roofing) on
Goderich’s Thyme on 21. The old one only lasted 140 years!
Add a picnic to your summer theatre experience this July
at Narcisse, a new outdoor play about the history of St.
Joseph, along the shores of Lake Huron between Grand Bend
and Bayfield. Pre-order a tasty boxed lunch/early dinner
when booking your tickets and find it waiting at 4:30pm at
St. Peter’s Catholic Church, where you can find many of the
gravestones of the play characters. The lunch, prepared by the
popular Jerry Rader’s market and catering in nearby Zurich,
includes his famous butter tart and 5-bean salad along with
sandwiches and other treats. Narcisse (www.narcissetheplay.
com), written by Paul Ciufo of Exeter and directed by Blyth’s
Duncan McGregor, is a large cast community extravaganza
celebrating one of Huron County’s most colourful residents,
Narcisse Cantin, best known for his audacious plan to create
a mammoth canal connecting Lake Huron to Lake Erie, from St.
Joseph to Port Stanley. The play runs July 19-30, nightly at 6pm
(right after the picnic!), 6:30 on Saturdays.
On an “arts” note, you can also enjoy the Bayfield
May/June 2011
Festival of Song (www.aldeburghconnection.org) June
3-12th and dine between performances at The Red Pump,
The Little Inn or The Black Dog –all close to the Bayfield
Town Hall where the talented Canadian singers will be
performing over two weekends. Or, in July, swing over to
Exeter for the Bach Music Festival of Canada (www.bachmusicfestival.com) July 11-17 and enjoy Lara St. John, the
Gerald Fagan Singers and others. Fit in a relaxing break on
the large patio at Eddington’s of Exeter.
There’s a new chef in the kitchen of The Little Inn of Bayfield. Joseph Petrinac arrived after spending some time
as a visiting chef in three Michelin-starred establishments
in Spain (Alkimia, Akelare and El Celler de Can Roca).
Foodies of Grand Bend underwent some major renovations over the long winter, adding about 30% more retail
space and a new, much larger display cooler. Over the next
few weeks, a number of new lines and items will arrive.
Co-owner Mike Burgess also advises that Foodies has
expanding its popular selection of fine artisan cheeses.
We can’t print it if you don’t send it.
Our readers want to know, so send us info about culinary events, fundraisers, and regional news.
With BUZZ in the Subject line, send to:
editor@eatdrink.ca.
Friday & Saturday!
am to pm
ly
lusive
An Exc r-Based
ce
Produ ’s Market
r
e
m
Far
Masonville Farmers’ Market
North London’s Fresh Alternative
SE Corner of Richmond Street & Fanshawe Park Road
Open twice a week
this year! Fridays &
Saturdays, 8am to 2pm
May 13/14 to October
www.masonvillefarmersmarket.ca
519-438-5942
may/june 2011
issue no. 29
www.eatdrink.ca 55
BEER MATTERS
The Cask Beer Conundrum
By The Malt Monk
H
ey, all this sun and yard work is
getting to me. Let’s go to the local
pub and grab a snack and a pint of
cask ale. Whazzat? You say you’ve
heard of cask ale but don’t quite know what
is, or where to find it? Well, let me help you
on your quest for real beer.
Cask ale (or more properly, cask-conditioned beer) is as close as you can get to the
authentic, full-flavoured beer our ancestors
drank. In its proper form, it’s unpasteurized,
unfiltered, and served from the vessel it was
fermented/conditioned in. So when a cask
is tapped and a pint “pulled,” what you get
is a live food product (not unlike raw honey
or dairy). “Living beer” is preservative-free
and full of flavour, character, nutrients and
vitamins. It’s naturally carbonated beer in its
unprocessed state. It’s not pushed through
tap lines by CO2 but “drawn”or “pulled”
using a traditional English beer engine
called a cask pump.
Therefore, cask-conditioned beer is not a
style per se, but a unique brewing process,
fermentation stage and dispensing technique
which, when all done correctly, will deliver
the authentic, fresh beer taste you can only
expect from a cask-conditioned beer.
Origins
Cask ale has its roots deep in antiquity. In
the pre-iron age, clay amphorae, and later
oak barrels, were the common fermenting and storage vessels for beer. In modern
times, cask ale is brewed in its first stages
much the same as all beer. The same brew
could be used to make keg or bottled beer.
The difference begins after primary fermentation has finished and the green beer
is ready for secondary fermenting and
56
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
conditioning.
Pasteurized keg and
bottled beers are put through
sterile filtering and/or flash heating
before packaging. Beer relegated for caskstyle beer is simply put into the firkin (small
stainless or aluminum keg) in its natural
state sans filtering or pasteurization. It is
living beer. The brewer relies upon the sterile vessel (cask), the lack of air in filling it,
and the alcohol content to counter bacterial infection of the product. At this point,
the brewer may add more raw hops for
enhanced aroma, as well as other organic
agents to settle the lees to the bottom of the
cask and clear the beer of heavy particulate.
An extra charge of sugar usually goes in to
react with the yeast left in suspension to carbonate the casked beer.
The cask is bunged and delivered to the
local pub. In the meantime, it will continue to
develop its rounded earthy character in cask.
The shelf life of cask beer is short — cask beers
need to be kept refrigerated and consumed
quickly. The result of this tedious and meticulous racking and handling of cask-conditioned
beer is a pint of extremely fresh, deeply
flavourful beer — sampled just the way our
ancestors tasted it.
May/June 2011
Revival
CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) was established in 1971 in England, when its founders
were deeply fed up with the increasing poor
quality of beer in Britain. At the time, commercial British beer (like Canadian beer)
was in the hands of large corporations that
made a bland, over-processed, fizzy, characterless mass consumer product. This motivated a large consumer movement to shift
the brewing craft back to traditional styles,
methods and packaging.
As CAMRA gained momentum and consumer power, a multitude of craft brewers
developed, with a vast itinerary of traditional
brews. With the growth of traditionally crafted
ales, the appreciation for cask-conditioned
ale also grew. This was real ale in its most
natural form. A real retro flavour experience
and a tangible link to our cultural history.
Following the resurgence of cask-conditioned beer in Britain, it became a natural
hit with North American beer buffs. The
microbrewing industry responded, offering
a host of popular microbrews in the unpasteurized, unfiltered cask-conditioned state.
Join us for Ontario Craft Beer Week — June 19-25
PATIpOen!
Now O
“A casual
pub with
serious
food“
www.brennansbeerbistro.ca
Pick up the Event Calendar online
347 Clarence St., London (North of York)
519-858-9900
may/june 2011
Beer in the Raw, Yeast and All
These days, brewers of cask beer start the
beer in a large fermenter, then finish it (second fermentation and conditioning) in the
cask. The presence of live yeast is a vital and
defining characteristic of cask-conditioned
beer. Yeast gives cask beer its distinctive
earthy-nutty undertone, fresh fruity esters in
aroma, and natural carbonation. If the yeast
is missing, you’re not drinking cask-conditioned ale. Home brewers will recognize the
process of making cask-conditioned beer
as being similar to bottle-conditioned ales.
Although it is similar, the larger vessel used in
cask beer allows for more complex flavour to
develop in the conditioning stage. Also, cask
beers are fresher tasting, with a hearty cap via
the “sparkler” on the hand-pump spout.
RAILWAY CITY BREWING CO. PRESENTS
The Cask Conundrum
So, considering the resurgence in popularity
of cask beers, why is it that most beer bars still
don’t offer cask beers and ales to their customers? Decades ago, many industry watchers pronounced cask ale to be the next big
trend in the microbrewed real beer evolution.
However, many extenuating circumstances
have held cask beer back from wider availability. Soft demand due to poor consumer
education coupled with the extra cost and
care of handling and shipping living beer, and
the cost of the more expensive serving equipment have made many a pub/bistro shy away
from offering cask ale to their customers. That
said, demand is there and cask ale popularity and availability are growing, albeit more
slowly than predicted. You can’t limit supply
of a good thing to real beer enthusiasts.
Most craft brewers in Ontario offer cask
beer, either a cask-conditioned version of
their popular brews or a one-off experimental
project. We see cask ale festivals becoming a
fixture in Canada’s metropolitan centres. In
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BBQ TEAMS
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JUNE 1
ST. THOMAS, ON
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PROCEEDS TO PROSTATE CANCER RESEARCH
58
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
the last year or so, I have sampled cask-conditioned beers from such local crafters as Grand
River Brewing, Neustadt Springs Brewery, Wel
lington Brewery, Railway City, F&M Brewing,
Nickel Brook, Great Lakes Brewing, Black Oak
Brewing, County Durham Brewing, Cameron’s, Mill Street, and Beau’s. These local crafters have offered everything from Pale Ales
and ESBs to spiced Porters, double Stouts,
Bocks, Lagers and Wheat Biers in the caskconditioned state. They are responding to a
growing trend of cask ale appreciation.
Cask Ale Oasis in London
Apart from the GTA cask ale emporiums
like Café Volo, C’est What, and Victory
Café, there is only a handful of places in
Ontario to get a pint of hand-pulled cask
ale — but London is fortunate in having
two of the finest cask oases in the province. At The King Edward Restaurant &
Pub in Ilderton, Rich has been serving fresh
hand-pulled cask ales for a number of years
now. Recently, Gambrinus Bistro & Café in
the Covent Garden Market has been serving a
wide selection of local craft-brewed cask beers.
There you go. Now there’s no reason to not
sample a delicious pint of cask-conditioned
beer. Enjoy!
Odds and Sudz
Continuing with their successful microbrewer features, the LCBO will be profiling
one of America’s original west coast microbrewers. Rogue Ales of Oregon offers six
popular and innovative brews:
Double Dead Guy Ale (Imperial
Amber Ale); Chipotle Ale (Golden
Ale, infused with smoked chipotle
peppers); Brutal Bitter (Imperial
bitter with exotic traditional floor
malts); Captain Sigs Northwestern Ale (India Red Ale); Morimoto Soba Ale, (Buckwheat
Pale Ale); and Somer Orange
Honey Ale (unfiltered wheat
beer with wildflower honey,
orange peel, oats, chamomile,
and coriander).
Rogue Ales are highly rated
and have won many awards.
It’s very exciting to get this
offering of hard-to-find Rogue
ales in this market. Be on the
lookout for them at a local
LCBO in late June.
May/June 2011
Malt Monk’s Pick
Southern Tier Gemini Imperial
Blended Ale, (LCBO 211425). This ale
is part of the LCBO’s spring import
offerings and one of the most flavourful, hoppy imperial strength ales
on the market. This once-a-year
offering is an unfiltered blend of
Southern Tier’s two most popular
strong pale ales. It pours clouded
amber in the glass and produces
a puffy three-finger off-white cap
that lasts and laces up the glass
sides. Modest carbonation.
Aroma is of succulent ripe
apricots and mixed citrus over
a musty honey sweetness. Rich,
slick mouthfeel, robust body,
mildly sweet, earthy with a distinctly fruity character. The flavour
profile starts with creamy malts
and big peach-grapefruit overtones floating
in an earthy sweetness. The sweetness drops
back as the flavour progresses into a more bitter-sweet competition between hop and malt,
then goes to a long wet fruity-bitter finish.
Delicious blend of two great Imperial
pales, unfiltered, with an embracing flavour
that deceptively hides the “Imperial” (9.1)
strength. Take the opportunity to sample
this unique blended ale with some grilled
salmon or a Gorgonzola burger.
THE MALT MONK is the alter ego of D.R. Hammond, a
passionate support of craft beer culture.
may/june 2011
issue no. 29
www.eatdrink.ca 59
WINE
Apples and Pairs
Creative matches with
cider and food
By Rick VanSickle
BURLINGTON, ON.
F
ood and wine pairing meals are
commonplace. Even meals planned
around craft beers are becoming
more and more popular. But the
studied and purposeful matching of cider
and food? It’s hard to imagine until you
taste the creations from a master chef who
decided to take on that very challenge,
which happened this spring in Burlington.
Chef Chris Haworth of Spencer’s at the
Waterfront restaurant designed a Cider Tasting Menu for over 100 local food enthusiasts.
The food paired brilliantly with artisanal
hard (fermented apple) ciders from four
different Ontario producers. His dishes were
simply stunning alongside the ciders.
Cider can be a challenge for chefs because
of the dominating apple flavour. It can also
be difficult teaming cider with a meal in
such a way that the sweetness of
the ripe apples is not allowed to
overpower the food. However,
because cider is naturally acidic
and vibrant it can be an attractive
pairing choice in the hands of a
talented chef.
The diversity of the seven ciders
poured — from dry and sparkling
ciders to sweet ice ciders
made by four artisans across
Ice apples will become sweet ice cider
the province — offered some gorgeous textural and complementing pairings and was
an eye-opening experience.
Artisanal cideries at the event included
the County Cider Company Estate Winery
from Prince Edward County, Spirit Tree
Estate Cidery in Caledon, Sunnybrook Farm
Estate Winery of Niagara-on-the-Lake, and
Twin Pines Orchards and Cider House from
Thedford.
The feast started with a winter salad of
maitake mushrooms, turnip, oranges and
goat cheese matched with County Cider
Company Premium cider. The fresh, ripe
apples and clean finish of the County cider
made a natural match with the salad and set
up the second course of lobster tortellini,
mango and lemon grass, served with
Spirit Tree Crabapple Blush 2010
cider brilliantly. The blush cider
from Spirit Tree showed cranberry-cherry fruits on the palate
that lifted the subtle lobster and
mango in the dish. A fabulous
match.
Up next was Haworth’s “land
and water” concoction of scallop, foie gras, chicken wings
and parsnips paired with Twin
Pines Hammer Bent Red cider.
60
www.eatdrink.ca
issue no. 29
May/June 2011
The red referred to in this
cider name comes from one
of the apple varieties — Ida
Red (with other apples in the
mix including Golden Russet,
Northern Spy and Jonagold).
There was a lot to like in this
pairing, and the seared foie
gras and scallop was an especially pleasurable experience
with the round, fresh notes of
the sweet apple cider
Sunnybrook Farm’s
providing harmonious
Ironwood Hard Cider
texture and flavour.
A brief interlude of
fennel sorbet with apple gel and fennel
From the porch of The County Cider Company Estate Winery,
pollen, matched to Sunnybrook Farm’s
Prince Edward County
Ironwood Hard Cider, a lively off-dry beverage crafted from
fifteen different varietHere’s a recipe from the dinner by Chef Chris Haworth of Spencer’s at the
ies of Niagara apples,
Waterfront. Serve with County Cider Company Premium cider.
was a perfect refresher
before the main dish
of the evening.
Veal loin with
pork belly gnocchi,
Serves 4
squash and mustard
8 small turnips (cut in wedges)
greens was served
100 mL sugar
up with Spirit Tree
100 mL rice wine vinegar
Estate Reserve Cider,
200 mL orange juice
a French-style, fullSprig of thyme
bodied drink that
50 g butter
spent six months in
150 g Maitake mushrooms
oak barrels to bring
20 g butter
2 oranges (cut into segments)
out the vanilla, clove
Photo by Suresh Doss, courtesy of
8 black walnuts, shelled and broken
www.spotlighttoronto.com
and nutmeg spice
12 breakfast radishes (cut in half lengthwise)
flavours to go with
50 mL apple puree
apple and caramel.
50 mL walnut oil
It was a special treat
150 g fresh goat cheese
that meshed expertly
Sea salt
with the savoury fla30 g micro arugula cress
vours and decadent,
12 pieces freeze-dried orange
fatty texture of the
pork belly and veal.
Make a pickle brine for the radish
For plating: Place a tablespoon
The cheese
by bringing the sugar and vinegar
of apple puree on the base of
course, presented
to a boil. While still warm, drop the
each plate, then divide the radby Gurth Pretty,
radish in and allow liquid to cool.
ish, turnips, orange segments and
owner of Cheese
Roast the turnips on one side in
freeze-dried orange pieces among
of Canada, paired
butter, add the thyme, and deglaze the four plates. Place broken pieces
cider-washed-andthe pan with orange juice. Keep
of goat cheese on each plate, along
soaked Guillaume
warm. Roast the walnut pieces in
with the roasted walnuts. Drizzle
Tell, a soft brie-style
a 350°F (180°C) oven for 5 minutes.
walnut oil, the orange cooking
cheese with ferSaute the Maitake mushrooms in
liquid from the turnips, and sea salt
mented apple and
butter over medium heat. Season
on each dish. Garnish with arugula
mushroom flavours,
with salt and pepper to taste.
cress. Serve immediately.
with Prince Edward
Winter Salad
may/june 2011
Stay ~ Dine ~ Spa ~ Celebrate ~ Explore
Summer Patio | Private Dining Rooms
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Prince Edward County Ice Cider
County Ice Cider. The sweet
ice cider brought wonderful
caramel apple and crème
brulée flavours to match the
cider-soaked cheese named
after William Tell.
The evening finished with
a prune and calvados cake,
Ida Red terrine and almond
ice cream, all washed down
with the exotic CHOA Ice
Cider from County Cider.
CHOA stands for cherry, hickory, oak and
ash, the four different wood treatments in
the special barrels in which this cider is
aged. This is a hedonistic elixir with a deep
amber colour that’s layered in spice, smoke,
stewed apples, caramel and toffee. It’s
super sweet but still retains some freshness
from the vibrant acidity. It was a delicious
finishing touch with the calvados cake and
ice cream.
RICK VANSICKLE is a freelance wine writer who lives in
Niagara with his family. He publishes a website dedicated to
Niagara wines (www.winesinniagara.com) and is a wines and
spirits contributor to several magazines.
Hwy 401 @ Harris Street, Ingersoll
tf: 1-800-561-5321 | elmhurstinn.com
“Simple, Sophisticated Dining”
“A hidden gem
in plain sight ...”
Bryan Lavery,
eatdrink magazine,
January 
519.432.2191
715 Richmond St.
at Piccadilly
www.dragonflybistro.ca
Dragonfly Bistro is available for private functions
62
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issue no. 29
May/June 2011
THE LIGHTER SIDE
At a Snail’s Pace
By Darin Cook
E
scargots will never be something
I willingly choose from a menu.
I prefer my shelled food to come
from salt water rather than the garden. My wife doesn’t have such hang-ups
and insisted I would love the buttery and
garlicky morsels.
“I can have butter and
garlic on things other than
garden vermin,” I reminded
her. “My resistance is mainly
due to texture, anyway.”
“Texture?” she sneered.
“What about taste?”
“Only if it tastes good
enough to mask an unsatisfying texture.”
I enjoy all manner of seafood, but snails fall
into a different category than scallops, shrimp,
and squid, and, imitating their fabled speed, I
was in no hurry to try her prized escargots. Not
that they should be categorized as seafood, but
it is the closest comparison, since slugs and
larvae are normally absent from menus. The
escargot is in a league of its own. It even gets
specially-designed plates that have no other
purpose in the kitchen. And if you happen to
get them served in the shells, there is another
specialized set of tongs to grip them while a
fork extracts the meat. Since these kitchen
utensils are used for nothing else, the escargot
following must be very strong to garner such
esoteric implements.
I am married to someone who brags
about having eaten them since she could eat
solid food. Once, at London’s beautiful trü
restaurant, she ordered the Escargots with
Wild Mushrooms in a Pernod Cream Sauce
as her appetizer. The moans of pleasure from
across the table could only mean that these
rival escargots served anywhere. In fact, my
wife plans to return to trü to order the escargots again, first as an appetizer and then a
second portion for her entree. Apparently,
they are that good.
After years of prodding, I finally agreed
to have her cook me an entire serving.
The French are known for cooking them
expertly, but my wife has a recipe passed
down from her grandfather, who also gave
her those special plates to make them in.
Unless you’re excavating the snails yourself from the backyard, there isn’t much
effort required. I watched
my wife pop open a can,
drop them into the depressions on the plate, add
whatever goes on top, and
stick them in the oven.
“Looks like they’re done,”
my wife said ten minutes
later. “Let’s eat.”
My plate had six divots in
it and I cleared them all out
to my wife’s satisfaction. And the result? I
had to choke down the sixth with as much
effort as the first. The garlicky, buttery, salty,
cheesy sauce they steeped in was tasty, but
could not disguise the rubbery texture of
what I was really eating. If it had been over
anything else — a piece of garlic bread,
say — it would have tasted the same minus
the chewy residue of the little animal that I
believe has a questionable place in the food
chain.
So after a lifetime of resistance, the snail
had finally and slowly made its way into
my belly. But the way I see it, eating should
not be about overcoming obstacles or fears
but should be one of life’s most unadulterated pleasures. I resisted trying what my
wife considers an exquisite delicacy only
so I could cram foods that I truly enjoy into
my mouth. So why did the French choose
these gastropods from the dirt to put their
wonderful sauces on? They’re responsible
for frog legs too, so who’s to say what they’re
really thinking.
DARIN COOK is a freelance writer who keeps himself
well-read and well-fed by visiting the bookstores and
restaurants of London.
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And Coming Soon!
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Take-Out and Take-Home wonderful pastries, croissants,
muffins, cupcakes, crêpes, cakes, macarons and many
more of Chef Nicole Arroyas’ favourites from France.