Livable Basements

Photo Courtesy The Basement Doctor
These before-and-after photos show how proper
waterproofing, structural repair, and lighting
can transform below-grade living space.
Livable Basements
A
n increasing number of homeowners are choosing to
upgrade their basements. Whether it’s for use as an inlaw apartment, an expanding family, a recreation room
or married kids coming home, the demand for basement living
space is strong. Many waterproofers are taking advantage of this
profit opportunity to create comfortable, well-lit living spaces
that feel just as inviting as their above-grade counterparts.
The key is to use the right combination of waterproofing,
dehumidification equipment, and other technology.
Brett Oakley, CEO of Mar-flex Waterproofing & Building
Products, says, “We’re seeing a change in how basements are
finished. Builders need to be aware not only how to make the
home waterproof, but how to make it livable and consider issues
like accessibility and lighting.”
Safety First
Oakley continues, “So many people buy homes with
unfinished living spaces, and they don’t understand the safety
issues. Kids become teenagers, they move downstairs for a little
more space, and no one thinks anything of it. But egress is one
of the essential components of any basement living space.”
“I was a fireman for 27 years,” he continues. “Moisture
is one issue, but life is more important, which means every
basement needs to have egress windows. Every contractor
needs to educate customers in this way. I don’t understand how
homeowners will spend $50,000 on a basement remodel and fail
to put adequately sized windows and egress window wells in.”
Oakley notes that not only are these required by code
and common sense, but they also make the space much more
inviting. The increase in natural light, he says, removes the
dark, claustrophobic feeling that many old basements have.
Ron Greenbaum, a Ohio-based waterproofer known
as “The Basement Doctor,” says that after life/safety issues,
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WATERPROOF!
structural concerns are the next priority. “Prior to finishing a
basement, all structural issues should be addressed as they will
not be able to be seen or inspected once the wall is covered,” he
says.” If the wall shows any signs of inward movement, it should
be supported to help prevent movement in the future.” This can
be done using traditional steel I-beams or modern carbon fiber
strapping.
Major cracks may need to be injected with epoxy (for
structural strength) or polyurethane grout (to prevent water
ingress) as well.
Greenbaum continues, “ In order to have a truly sound and
inviting basement all the issues must be addressed instead of
putting a temporary Band-Aid on them. You can’t just put up a
wall and think that by hiding the water and cracks, they’ll just
go away. A livable basement needs to be safe.”
Oakley says that while it may be costly to fix an existing
home, it’s often not as expensive as homeowners fear. “For a
severely leaking foundation, you’ll need to bring in heavy
equipment and re-do the waterproofing and drainage. But often,
if it’s just minor leaking, it’s possible to cut in an interior drain
tile that sits on the footing, between the slab and the foundation
wall, that will get that water out of the living space.”
Planning
To get the most out of the upgrade, begin by drawing out
the floor plan, and then determine the best way to utilize the
space. Figure out which windows will need to be enlarged or
if new egress windows need to be cut into an entirely different
area of the wall. Then, add artificial lighting.
“The proper amount of lighting is so important,” says
Greenbaum. “We typically install one can light for every 36
sq. ft. or so when finishing the basement.” He recommends
allowing as much additional natural light into the basement
as reasonably possible, using energy efficient windows and
window well enclosures which are designed to reflect light into
the basement.
Oakley prefers the polyethelene window wells, as they
don’t rust or corrode, and are there for the life of the home.
“Fiberglass is not a bad product,” he says. “They perform well
and have a really nice look to them, but some seem to be on the
thin side.” Oakley is of the opinion that the gavanized metal
wells, whether white or shiny, are not as appealing.
Whatever course is chosen, Oakley advises, “Make sure
it’s done according to code to ensure you’re adding value to the
home. Basement remodels can often be done quite economically,
because the space is already there.”
Keep Water Out
At some point in the process, waterproofing must be
addressed. Greenbaum states, “Most basement water problems
are the result of improperly maintained exterior items such as
gutters, downspouts, and grading.”
Oakley agrees. “ It’s not any one thing, but it’s a whole
system that works from the footer up, and you can’t cut corners.”
It starts with drainage tile or perforated pipe installed along
the footing. Oakley says his rule of thumb is the lower the
better. That water must be taken well away from the structure.
He continues, “ I prefer a positive drainage system over sump
pumps, but in some areas, like the Midwest, sump pumps are
always necessary.”
He feels that using drainage board only or dampproofing
is a major mistake. “You want a good waterproofing seal
from the top of the footer to the top of the wall.” He typically
recommends a solid rubber product, but says his company
will also use emulsion and solvent-based systems when they’re
better suited to the application.
Greenbaum says that in a few cases, he’s discovered that
basement water problems were unrelated to groundwater,
and instead came from plumbing leaks and water heaters. He
recommends installing drain pans under these units that drain
off to a drain or sump pump system.
“By using a great waterproofing product, and a great
drainage product, you’re preventing a lot of potential problems,”
Oakley says.
Humidity
Once liquid water is addressed, the plan should deal with
water vapor as well.
“It’s critical that when a basement is in the ground, it has a
good dehumidification system,” says Oakley.
Karl Osman, sales manager at SantaFe/ThermaStor, says,
“Basement finishing is an extremely fast growing market
right now, and when you talk about making that space livable,
are you paying too much for
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21
dehumidification is a major part of that.”
He continues, “Due to the cooler temperatures down
there, it will naturally have higher humidity levels, even if the
waterproofing is functioning perfectly. Many homeowners will
spend $8,000 to $15,000 on finishing the basement, but if you
don’t control the humidity, everything you just put in there is at
risk. That unseen water is soaking into furniture, toys, corroding
electronics, and creating conditions for mold, mildew, and the
pests that are attracted to humidity such as bugs and rodents.”
Greenbaum recommends keeping the relative humidity
below 50%, and Osman agrees.
Some recommend keeping it even drier, but Greenbaum
cautions, “You do need some relative humidity, so don’t take
it too low. Really low relative humidity can also cause static
electricity.”
“About 60% humidity is where mold growth really takes
off,” Osman says.
As to the best method of addressing water vapor, Oakley
admits, “Every single basement is different. Whether the walls
are block or poured concrete, insulation, climate, waterproofing;
it all plays a role.” He continues, “Before you do anything,
address safety issues first. Then address the moisture problems.”
He finishes basements with enough air space behind the wall to
create air flow and ventilation to ensure mold growth doesn’t
occur.
The simplest solution is a stand-alone dehumidifier. These
come in different sizes to accommodate the variety of room
volumes and moisture levels. Osman says, “These can be set up
in multiple ways. If it needs to be out-of-sight, it can be located
in storage closet or utility room and ducted to the living space.”
These run on regular 120-volt power, and can be plugged
into any outlet, although Osman recommends a dedicated
circuit with a GCFI outlet.
To minimize maintenance, he also recommends attaching
a gravity-fed hose that drains into the sump pit, floor drain, or
HVAC water removal system.
The Santa Fe dehumidifiers, like most quality units, have an
in-unit humidistat that will automatically activate the machine
when humidity levels rise.
Greenbaum recommends a dehumidifier than doubles as
an air purifier. “It regulates the relative humidity and cleans the
air down to one micron,” he says. “These units remove dust,
dust mites, mold, and other airborne toxins.”
Greenbaum adds, “Even if you don’t plan on living there, it
may be worth looking into a upgrading. As much as 50-60% of
the air that you breathe in the upper levels of the home comes
from the basement and crawlspace. You cannot shut the door
and ignore these spaces. They will impact your quality of life
whether you ignore them or not.”S
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