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Champagne & Chandeliers grand dining celebrations B E R N A D E T T E O ’S HEA Contents FOREWORD v John F. Kennedy 57 CHAMPAGNE PHILIPPONNAT PREFACE xi Mikhail Gorbachev, Paris Esprit du Siecle Brisbane 125 CHAMPAGNE MOËT & CHANDON 69 Princess Margaret, Dar es Salaam 01 CHAMPAGNE LOUIS ROEDERER Babette 69 CHAMPAGNE RUINART 9 CHAMPAGNE DE VENOGE King George VI François Mitterrand, Caracas 15 133 Royal Wedding, Charles & Diana 75 CHAMPAGNE DUVAL-LEROY Emperor Hirohito King Louis XV 85 89 CHAMPAGNE HENRIOT Royal Wedding, Frederik & Mary Royal Wedding, Naruhito & Masako CHAMPAGNE BOLLINGER, CHAMPAGNE AYALA Nobel Prize 29 CHAMPAGNE MERCIER Karl Lagerfeld, Great Wall of China 141 147 155 CHAMPAGNE GOSSET Oxford English Dictionary Elvis Presley and the Beatles 163 Baltic Sea Champagne CHAMPAGNE PIPER-HEIDSIECK 221 227 CHAMPAGNE CHARLES HEIDSIECK Hiroyuki Hiramatsu and Salon 101 Frank Sinatra and Mia Farrow CHAMPAGNE JACQUES SELOSSE 173 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 238 INDEX 241 CHAMPAGNE DELAMOTTE CHAMPAGNE POMMERY 45 Princess Grace 109 183 CHAMPAGNE DEUTZ Seven Kings CHAMPAGNE POL ROGER 213 CHAMPAGNE HEIDSIECK & CO MONOPOLE CHAMPAGNE PERRIER-JOUËT Winston Churchill Gerard Boyer and Krug CHAMPAGNE BRUNO PAILLARD King Edward VII Henry Ford, Brussels 207 CHAMPAGNE LANSON 93 CHAMPAGNE DOM PÉRIGNON 35 Rémi Krug, Hong Kong CHAMPAGNE KRUG CHAMPAGNE SALON Picasso and Ferran Adrià 201 CHAMPAGNE JACQUESSON CHAMPAGNE TAITTINGER 23 King Olav V CHAMPAGNE LAURENT-PERRIER CHAMPAGNE G.H. MUMM Luciano Pavarotti, New York The Titanic 193 CHAMPAGNE COMTE AUDOIN DE DAMPIERRE CHAMPAGNE VEUVE CLICQUOT Emperors President Clinton and Jiang Zemin 49 King Edward VIII CHAMPAGNE BILLECART-SALMON 117 POL ROGER 1892 189 Preface Champagne –– the the very very word word says says celebration. celebration. With With itit we we toast toast success, success, mark mark life’s life’s milestones, milestones, Champagne christen ships ships and and even even babies, babies, and and welcome welcome with with hope hope and and joy joy every every new new year. year. christen Champagne sparkles sparkles its its way way into into all all the the best best moments moments on on the the world world stage stage –– royal royal weddings, weddings, Champagne presidents’ inaugurations, inaugurations, nations’ nations’ treaty treaty signings signings –– significant significant occasions occasions instantly instantly recorded recorded in in presidents’ history. In In these these pages pages we we join join royal royal celebrities celebrities in in Copenhagen Copenhagen at at the the wedding wedding dinner dinner of of Prince Prince history. Frederik and and Princess Princess Mary, Mary, attend attend aa charity charity dinner dinner in in New New York York with with Princess Princess Grace Grace of of Monaco, Monaco, Frederik and watch watch over over President President John John F. F. Kennedy’s Kennedy’s Inaugural Inaugural Luncheon Luncheon in in 1961. 1961. and Champagne is is also also aa form form of of applause, applause, our our way way of of honouring honouring remarkable remarkable creative creative and and Champagne intellectual achievement, achievement, the the finest finest human human endeavours. endeavours. We We visit visit Stockholm Stockholm for for aa Nobel Nobel Prize Prize intellectual dinner in in the the Blue Blue Hall, Hall, and and sit sit in in with with the the great great pointy pointy heads heads of of the the day day for for the the launch launch of of the the dinner Oxford English English Dictionary Dictionary in in Goldsmiths’ Goldsmiths’ Hall, Hall, London. London. And And not not only only do do we we time-travel time-travel into into Oxford yesterday, we we also also slip slip into into celluloid celluloid when when we we take take aa peek peek at at Babette’s Babette’s famous famous feast. feast. yesterday, With champagne, champagne, too, too, we we toast toast our our friends, friends, people people who who have have made made our our world world aa better better place. place. With And so so we we observe observe aa quiet quiet dinner dinner with with Luciano Luciano Pavarotti Pavarotti in in New New York York during during an an opera opera season season And at the the Met, Met, and and don don cashmere cashmere wraps wraps and and join join Karl Karl Lagerfeld Lagerfeld on on The The Great Great Wall Wall of of China China for for the the at world’s most most extravagant extravagant fashion fashion show show ever. ever. II welcome welcome you you as as my my dinner dinner guest guest in in Brisbane Brisbane to to world’s enjoy Moët Moët & & Chandon’s Chandon’s history-making history-making Esprit Esprit du du Siècle. Siècle. enjoy Most celebrations celebrations involve involve aa meal, meal, because because dining dining together together is is one one of of the the happiest happiest gatherings gatherings Most we know. know. II hope hope to to show show you you how how bringing bringing champagne champagne to to the the table table provides provides unrivalled unrivalled matching matching we potential for for almost almost all all types types of of food food and and cuisine cuisine styles. styles. Each Each of of the the book’s book’s celebration celebration revolves revolves potential around aa menu, menu, and and itit brings brings me me great great pleasure pleasure to to match match aa dish dish with with aa champagne. champagne. around No two two champagnes champagnes are are the the same, same, with with different different terroirs, terroirs, grapes, grapes, slopes, slopes, seasons, seasons, styles styles No and techniques. techniques. Here Here II present present two two hundred hundred champagnes, champagnes, many many of of them them readily readily available available today, today, and as well well as as some some rare rare and and iconic iconic ones ones from from the the past past that that II have have been been privileged privileged to to drink drink –– great great as treasures beyond beyond price, price, as as the the late late great great Max Max Lake Lake put put it. it. treasures Over and and above above still still wines, wines, champagne champagne brings brings texture texture and and mouth mouth aroma aroma to to aa match. match. Its Its high high Over acidity tones tones down down saltiness, saltiness, cuts cuts through through fat fat and and reduces reduces excessive excessive sweetness. sweetness. Its Its effervescence effervescence acidity “degreases the the tastebuds”, tastebuds”, while while adding adding elegance elegance and and “height” “height” to to “heavy” “heavy” foods. foods. “degreases So “What’s “What’s for for dinner?” dinner?” has has just just become become much much more more intriguing. intriguing. Each Each champagne champagne match match So propose either either complements complements or or contrasts contrasts with with the the character character of of the the food food –– qualities qualities such such as as II propose creaminess, crunch, crunch, crispness crispness and and of of course course taste taste that, that, in in combination combination with with the the other other sensations, sensations, creaminess, create flavour. flavour. create My interest interest in in champagne champagne began began in in the the late late 1970s. 1970s. From From the the first first sip, sip, II was was overwhelmed overwhelmed My by how how aa wine wine could could be be so so beautifully beautifully crafted crafted and and display display so so many many exquisite exquisite nuances. nuances. II still still am am by overwhelmed! The The aromas aromas in in particular particular fascinate fascinate me, me, assisted assisted no no doubt doubt by by my my background background as as aa overwhelmed! floral artist. artist. floral grand champagne champagne occasions occasions grand xx preface preface xi xi King George VI At the time it was tagged the greatest reception ever, and its like has never been seen since. When the King and Queen of England visited France in July 1938, it was a staged statement of solidarity between the two countries not long after Hitler had signed an alliance with Italy. The political mood in Europe was tense amid premonitions of war. The symbolism was unmistakeable. In a show of military all white. A French precedent for this all-white protocol had strength, 50,000 French troops lined the railway from been found back in the seventeenth century, when queens Boulogne-sur-Mer to Paris as the royal carriages passed by. wore white while in mourning. When King George VI and Queen Elizabeth arrived in Paris, The Parisians adored the fashionable wardrobe and 10,000 white doves – doves of peace – were released from an Norman Hartnell was acclaimed by couturiers and made an enormous flower-bedecked cage to the cheers of two million officer of the Académie Française. His soft and impeccably Parisians. The public reception of all time had begun. elegant designs influenced Paris collections that year and As the royal motorcade reached Place de la Concorde, an were immortalised in the photography of Cecil Beaton. enormous Union Jack – said to be the largest flag ever made Matchless, though, and priceless, were the royal jewels, – fluttered to life from the Eiffel Tower. which so rarely leave London. To the opera the Queen wore At Versailles the smartly drilled, heavily motorised might the 106-carat Koh-i-Nur diamond, the legendary Indian of France unrolled in a broad military pageant before the king diamond with a history as dazzling as its lustre, and on and a host of dignitaries. The military attachés of Germany another occasion she wore the magnificent “Indian” tiara and Italy were given front-row seats, no doubt in support of of Queen Victoria, set with 2,678 diamonds. The tiara is the maxim attributed to the French general, Marshal Lyautey: named for the Indian rubies set into it in 1902, when Queen “Show your strength so as not to have to use it.” Alexandra had its “unlucky” opals removed. Also in evidence As well as the line-up of military might, the royal visit were the diamond garter, created for Queen Victoria and was also memorable for the glittering display of elegance and worn by Queen Elizabeth on the arm, and the jewelled badge opulence. Queen Elizabeth’s wardrobe created a sensation, of the Légion d’Honneur and sash. though all had not gone to plan. When the Queen’s mother, We do not know which pieces Her Majesty wore to dinner the Countess of Strathmore, died five days before the orig— in the Hall of Mirrors at the Château de Versailles, but we can inal date of departure, the visit, postponed by three weeks to imagine the evening. Picture the setting in Jules Hardouin- mid-July, still fell within the official period of mourning. Mansart’s architectural wonder with its 357 mirrors, the Royal couturier Norman Hartnell worked quickly to gilding, enormous chandeliers, and a thousand metres of redesign the wardrobe entirely, replacing “many lovely painted and sculpted work by Charles Le Brun, first painter colourings” with costumes more appropriate for a time of to the “Sun King”, Louis XIV. mourning. His solution was a masterstroke. The Queen boarded the train in England wearing black … and when she stepped onto the platform in Paris she wore [opposite] Chandelier, Hall of Mirrors, Palace of Versailles king george vi 15 Menu Fresh caviar caviar and and chilled chilled melon melon Fresh How delightful delightful to to read read this this menu menu –– and and especially especially the the many many How There is is aa strong strong personality personality to to Veuve Veuve Clicquot Clicquot 1980, 1980, There Fish from from Lake Lake Annecy Annecy in in béchamel béchamel sauce sauce Fish with crayfi crayfish sh butter butter with champagnes, which which were were probably probably served served at at the the conclusion conclusion champagnes, which has has the the vigour vigour and and complexity complexity to to match match the the strength strength which The banquet, banquet, hosted hosted by by the the Mayor Mayor of of Versailles, Versailles, Henri Henri The Haye, was was created created by by ten ten of of the the fifinest nest chefs chefs in in France. France. The The Haye, wines, of of equal equal importance importance to to the the meal, meal, included included the the 1900 1900 wines, Medallions of of lamb lamb Medallions blueberries and and aa seductive seductive touch touch of of cinnamon cinnamon and and nutmeg nutmeg blueberries Timbale of of stuffed stuffed quail quail Timbale de Blancs, Blancs, its its vibrant vibrant lively lively aromas aromas immediately immediately apparapparde is the the fifirst rst sensation sensation that that greets greets the the palate, palate, followed followed by by the the is Slivers of ofyoung young duck duck Slivers ent without without any any need need to to swirl swirl the the glass. glass. They They refl reflect ect notes notes of of ent skin of of red red apple, apple, some some ripe ripe apricots, apricots, and and orange orange slices slices skin Salad Gauloise Gauloise Salad jasmine, pink pink grapefruit, grapefruit, and and light light clear clear honey. honey. ItIt is is almost almost as as jasmine, dipped in in chocolate. chocolate. dipped Granita of of Lanson Lanson 1921 1921 Granita thoughthe thehoney honeyhas hasbeen beendrizzled drizzledover overfresh freshpeaches peacheson onthe the though SLIVERS OF OF YOUNG YOUNG DUCK DUCK calls calls for for aa lush, lush, ripe ripe wine wine bursting bursting SLIVERS Young Bresse Bresse chicken chicken in in cream cream sauce, sauce, Young with butter butter swirls swirls and and braised braised asparagus asparagus tips tips with palatewith withaalayer layerof ofcashew cashewand andalmond. almond.There Thereis isaaflflavour avourof of palate with rich rich flflavours. avours. Pol Pol Roger Roger 1973 1973 answers answers the the call. call. Pomelo, Pomelo, with peartatin tatinand andthe thewine winefifinishes nisheswith withaarich richmineral minerallift. lift. pear ripepineapple, pineapple,blueberries blueberriesand andceps cepsfifillllthe thepalate palateand andefforteffortripe 1895 Pommery, Pommery, in in honour honour of of the the King’s. King’s. 1895 Gifts presented presented to to the the royal royal couple couple included included aa René René Gifts Lalique glass glass table table service, service, aa solid solid gold gold cigarette cigarette case case Lalique and watercolours watercolours by by Edouard Edouard Vuillard, Vuillard, Raoul Raoul Dufy Dufy and and and Truffles es prepared prepared Périgord Périgord style style Truffl IcedSingapore Singapore mousse, mousse, Iced peaches, petits petits fours fours peaches, Wines MackenzieSherry Sherry “Amontillado “Amontillado Grande Grande Réserve” Réserve” Mackenzie Chevalier Montrachet Montrachet 1926 1926 Chevalier Magnum of of Château Château La La Mission Mission Haut Haut Brion Brion 1920 1920 Magnum Hospices de de Beaune Beaune “Cuvée “Cuvée Charlotte Charlotte Dumay” Dumay” 1915 1915 Hospices Corton Grancey Grancey 1919 1919 Corton Magnum of of Château Château Mouton Mouton Rothschild Rothschild 1919 1919 Magnum Château d’Yquem d’Yquem 1921 1921 Château Magnum of of Château Château Latour Latour 1904 1904 Magnum Magnum of of Pol Pol Roger Roger 1911 1911 Magnum Magnum of of G.H. G.H. Mumm Mumm 1911 1911 Magnum Louis Roederer Roederer 1904 1904 Louis Veuve Clicquot Clicquot 1900 1900 Veuve Pommery 1895 1895 Pommery [clockwisefrom fromtop topleft] left]Koh-i-Nur Koh-i-Nurdiamond; diamond;Queen QueenElizabeth Elizabethin in [clockwise NormanHartnell Hartnellgown, gown,photographed photographedby byCecil CecilBeaton; Beaton;[possibly [possibly Norman someCrown CrownJewels Jewelsto tocome] come] some champagnnee & &chandeliers chandeliers champag 16 16 TIMBALEOF OFSTUFFED STUFFEDQUAIL QUAIL..A Ablend blendof ofblack blackpreserved preservedcherries, cherries, ofTIMBALE of of the the meal. meal. Here Here II draw draw on on those those same same Houses. Houses. of CAVIAR AND AND MELON MELON attracts attracts the the Louis Louis Roederer Roederer 1988 1988 Blanc Blanc CAVIAR Veuve Clicquot, Clicquot, in in honour honour of of the the Queen’s Queen’s birth birth year, year, and and the the Veuve Maurice Utrillo. Utrillo. Maurice Champagne Match Pommery “Flacon “Flacon d’Exception” d’Exception” 1981 1981 glides glides across across the the Pommery lessly convey convey chocolate, chocolate, mocha mocha coffee coffee and and honey honey nuances. nuances. lessly FISH IN IN BÉCHAMEL BÉCHAMEL SAUCE SAUCE WITH WITH CRAYFISH CRAYFISH BUTTER BUTTER palate to to meet meet the the FISH palate There is is aa layer layer of of light light honey honey toffee toffee mixed mixed with with walnuts walnuts and and There andfifind ndaahappy happyhome. home.These Theseflflacons aconsrested restedin inthe thePommery Pommery and background of of hawthorn hawthorn flflorals. orals. An An amazing amazing combination combination aa background cellarsuntil until1999 1999and andwere werereleased releasedfor forthe themillennium millennium––each each cellars with duck. duck. with year is is aa testament testament to to excellence. excellence. The The year year 1981 1981 was was aa highhighyear GRANITAOF OFLANSON LANSON1921. 1921.Imagine Imagineturning turningaachampagne champagnefrom from GRANITA acid year year and and there there is is still still enough enough to to balance balance the the more more develdevelacid the famous famous 1921 1921 vintage vintage into into aa granita! granita! II would would much much prefer prefer the oped flflavours avours of of mocha, mocha, baked baked apple, apple, and and toffee toffee sprinkled sprinkled oped to have have sipped sipped this this nectar, nectar, and and by by all all accounts accounts the the example example to with nuts, nuts, fifinishing nishing on on the the palate palate with with ripe ripe but but crisp crisp citrus. citrus. with from this this beautiful beautiful House House lived lived up up to to the the accolades accolades that that from MEDALLIONS OF OF LAMB LAMB requires requires aa wine wine with with generous generous characcharacMEDALLIONS this year year received. received. In In particular, particular, the the crispness crispness and and elegance elegance this ter, such such as as Mumm Mumm “Cuvée “Cuvée R. R. Lalou” Lalou” 1998, 1998, which which has has an an ter, would have have been been retained, retained, owing owing to to the the assertive assertive acidity acidity would intriguing mix mix of of freshness freshness and and maturity. maturity. René René Lalou, Lalou, after after intriguing derived from from this this delightful delightful non-malolactic non-malolactic wine. wine. derived Flavours radiate radiate from from Pommery Pommery “Louise” “Louise” 1988, 1988, which which Flavours whom this this new new cuvée cuvée de de prestige prestige is is named, named, was was the the rising rising whom CHICKEN IN IN CREAM CREAM SAUCE SAUCE.. CHICKEN star of of G.H. G.H. Mumm Mumm when when this this dinner dinner took took place. place. He He appears appears star makes itit aa distinctive distinctive partner partner to to makes in the the Mumm Mumm story story that that follows. follows. Created Created from from seven seven grand grand in Perfumed aromas aromas of of ginger ginger flflowers owers and and sweetpeas sweetpeas open open to to aa Perfumed cru vineyards, vineyards, the the wine wine unfurls unfurls in in aa crescendo crescendo with with aa cru palate of of fresh fresh mandarin, mandarin, cashews, cashews, bright bright red red plums, plums, ginger ginger palate marked impression impression of of elegance. elegance. There There is is aa great great aromatic aromatic marked grachai and and rosella rosella jam, jam, all all gently gently sprinkled sprinkled with with delicate delicate grachai complexityof ofwhite whiteiris, iris,white whiteapple appleblossom blossomand andhawthorn hawthorn complexity spice, dill dill and and mint. mint. Finally Finally there there is is aa layer layer of of baked baked cheese cheese spice, withinterlinking interlinkingelements elementsof ofmineral mineralnotes, notes,nougat, nougat,orange orange with soufflé, é, as as well well as as breakfast breakfast marmalade, marmalade, wild wild cherries cherries and and souffl and acacia acacia honey. honey. There There is is aa layer layer of of preserved preserved citrus, citrus, along along and yellow peaches peaches drizzled drizzled with with honey. honey. yellow with deep deep cherry cherry and and strawberry, strawberry, and and hints hints of of pineapple, pineapple, with PÉRIGORD--STYLE STYLETRUFFLES TRUFFLESrequires requiresaawine wineof ofgreat greatmagnitude. magnitude. PÉRIGORD trufflee and and custard custard apple, apple, all all sprinkled sprinkled with with hazelnut, hazelnut, truffl Mumm “Cuvée “Cuvée René René Lalou” Lalou” 1966 1966 is is rich rich and and concentrated, concentrated, Mumm brazil nut nut and and praline praline which which comes comes to to the the fore. fore. All All the the fruit fruit brazil with saturated saturated flflavours avours of of glazed glazed citrus citrus peel, peel, coffee, coffee, chocochocowith is wrapped wrapped in in aa light light veil veil of of vanilla, vanilla, similar similar to to the the lightest lightest is late, baked baked apple apple topped topped with with toffee, toffee, and and dried dried fifigs. gs. There There late, crème anglaise. anglaise. Some Some pink pink grapefruit grapefruit appears, appears, surrounded surrounded crème is aa slight slight edge edge of of spice, spice, layers layers of of honeyed honeyed macadamia macadamia nuts, nuts, is by white white peach peach and and nectarines nectarines and and edged edged by by lemon lemon butter butter by suggestions of of dried dried mushrooms, mushrooms, and and aa fragrant fragrant nose nose of of suggestions on toast. toast. AA wonderful wonderful vein vein of of mineral, mineral, quartz quartz and and pearl pearl run run on mauve lilacs lilacs and and ruby ruby peonies. peonies. The The wine wine reaches reaches out out with with mauve through the the palate, palate, and and this this fifinely nely balances balances the the structure structure through power and and strength strength and and has has alluring alluring characters characters that that would would power and acidity. acidity. and make the the truffl truffles es joyous! joyous! make king george george vi vi king 17 17 Royal Wedding Frederik & Mary The fairytale wedding of Mary Donaldson of Tasmania, Australia, and Crown Prince Frederik of Denmark might well have been written by Hans Christian Andersen himself. Raised in a suburb of Hobart, Mary Donaldson studied Law at university before moving to Sydney where she worked in real estate and public relations. Frederik, on the other hand, hailed from Europe’s oldest royal family, the Danish monarchy. A descendant of King Gorm the Old, Denmark’s tenth century Viking ruler, Frederik boasts a lineage that tracks back more than a thousand years. The commoner and the crown prince met at a pub in Sydney during the 2000 Olympic Games. Four years later their fairytale romance was recorded in history. When Mary Donaldson became Crown Princess Mary of Denmark, the world celebrated with her. On 14 May 2004 the Copenhagen Cathedral, the Church of Our Lady, was dressed with masses of beautiful flowers – roses, lilies, carnations, peonies, sweetpeas, bluebells and Australian eucalyptus. The massed voices of the Copenhagen Boys Choir filled the church with triumphant Handel, trumpets sounded, and standards flew as European aristocracy turned out in force, wearing glinting tiaras, swords, medals and insignia. The last time so many dignitaries had gathered in the nave was at Hans Christian Andersen’s funeral in 1875. The wedding feast was held in a candlelit marquee with a sumptuous meal themed around Danish produce. The ten-tier wedding cake towered two metres high, each tier decorated with the FMF monogram designed by Queen Margrethe, Frederik’s mother. Of course champagne was served at the wedding banquet and it was from the House of [opposite] Champagne glasses by Queensland jeweller John Calleija are studded with 1,700 white and Argyle pink diamonds. [above] Masses of flowers – roses, lilies, peonies, sweet peas, Scottish bluebells, and Australian eucalyptus - adorned Copenhagen’s Cathedral of Our Lady for the royal wedding. Mercier. A special champagne, “Cuvée Frederik & Mary”, was released for the occasion. royal wedding, frederik & mary 29 publication date December 2009 price RRP $120.00 hardback isbn/apn 9781 74066 8354 format 285 x 230 mm portrait extent 256 pages illustration Full-colour photography thoughout catergory Food/Wine imprint Hardie Grant Books enquiries +61 (0)7 3870 9996 +61 (0)413 751 792 email mkagency@optusnet.com.au web www.champagneconsultant.com