Bantams - The Learning Store - University of Wisconsin

John L. Skinner
North Central Regional Publication Extension Publication 209
North Central Regional Extension Publications
are prepared as a part of Cooperative Extension activities of the thirteen land-grant universities from the twelve North Central States in
cooperation with the Extension Service–U.S.
Department of Agriculture. The following states
cooperated in making this publication available:
University of Illinois
1301 W. Gregory Drive
Urbana, IL 61801
Purdue University
301 South Second Street
Lafayette, IN 47905
Iowa State University
112 Printing & Public. Bldg.
Ames, IA 50011
Michigan State University
P.O. Box 231
East Lansing, MI 48824
University of Minnesota
3 Coffey Hall, 1420 Eckles Ave.
St. Paul, MN 55108
University of Missouri
222 S. Fifth Street
Columbia MO 56211
North Dakota State University
Dept. of Ag. Communications
Fargo, ND 58105
South Dakota State University
Extension Bldg., Box 2231
Brookings, SD 57007
University of Wisconsin
1535 Observatory Drive
Madison. WI 53706
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Contents
Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Value & Purpose of Bantams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Characteristics of Bantams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Breeds & Varieties. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Table of Bantam Breeds & Varieties. . . . . . . 3-5
Getting Started with Bantams. . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Securing Breeding Stock. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Selection & Mating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Artificial Insemination. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Incubation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Rearing the Young. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Feeding Bantams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Housing & Runs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Diseases . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ....12
Parasites. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Selecting, Fitting & Showing. . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Fair Classes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Reference List. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
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Note
This publication is a supplemental reference for members of 4-H poultry projects as well as providing
information for others interested in bantam chickens.
You have several opportunities to help children with their poultry projects.
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Become familiar with the material in this publication.
Help children set realistic goals.
Help select equipment and supplies which are needed and which can be obtained.
Help children understand and learn the tasks required to complete the plan. Do not do their
work for them.
Assist in scheduling time.
Periodically discuss their progress with them.
Help them recognize achievement and, when necessary, encourage them to do better.
Praise them for a job well done. Praise from you, one of the most important persons in their
lives, is among the highest rewards.
Help them understand what might be improved.
Help them understand their capabilities, strengths and weaknesses and encourage them to
fully utlize their individual abilities.
Help children evaluate their achievements and progress toward goals. Don’t compare
children’s progress. Each person is unique and should be treated as an individual.
Introduction
Man’s interest in chickens began at least 3,000 years ago, the date of the earliest records which concern domesticated birds. We don’t know the early history of bantams, although earliest reports indicate they came from the Orient. The Japanese, tireless breeders in developing the extremes of
form and feather, have done much to perfect bantams.
The word bantam means a small, miniature fowl. Today the word encompasses any one of nearly
350 breeds and varieties of miniature chickens. Most but not all of these miniatures resemble a larger
variety of domestic chicken.
The word “bantie” is often used to describe any and all “small” chickens. Such a general term may
have been satisfactory when most dwarf chickens were a general mixture of many shapes and colors. Today, however, careful breeding has resulted in many different types and color patterns of
bantams which must be identified by breed and variety.
1
Value & Purpose
of Bantams
Generally bantams are bred for color and form
rather than the ability to produce eggs or meat.
However, bantams can be and often are
reasonably good egg producers. Bantams need
not be and should not be freaks, unhealthy
midgets or unproductive dwarfs.
Frequently bantams are kept as pets. They make
excellent pets since they are easily tamed, contented in small areas and require simple, inexpensive facilities. Their initial cost is reasonable.
Bantams will eat inexpensive, available feeds and
are easy to maintain.
Characteristics
of Bantams
Size Bantams should be small. Generally, adult
bantams will weigh between 16 and 30 ounces.
Size varies somewhat within and among breeds.
The introduction of new blood lines and growthpromoting diets have tended to increase the size
of each generation. As a result, smaller
specimens are desirable for breeding purposes
to ensure that small size continues to be an inherited trait. However, do not keep freaks, runts,
or unthrifty birds as breeders just because they
are small.
Growth
Each breed's growth habits will
vary. Usually the tight-feathered breeds mature
in about 6 months while the loose-feathered
breeds take 9 months or more. All bantams tend
to be a little more massive and somewhat heavier
in their second year than their first.
Spurs, the hard bony growth on the inside of
each normal male’s legs, appear about the time
he reaches maturity and continue to grow
throughout the bird’s life. They usually tend to
curve upward and often become very sharppointed. Spurs were originally one of wild male
birds defense mechanisms. Hens may also occasionally show some spur development.
Bantams usually feather quite rapidly. Feather
color often changes as birds mature. Therefore,
beginners should be patient and not attempt to
evaluate their birds too early.
The true type of some breeds does not become
evident until the second or third year.
2
Egg Production Even though bantams have not
been selected or bred especially for egg production, most breeds are fairly good egg producers
if cared for properly. Bantam eggs are about twothirds the size of eggs from large fowl and often
weigh from 15 to 20 ounces per dozen. The shell
color of bantam eggs varies with the breed. The
range of color is from white for the miniatures
of the Mediterranean breeds to a light brown for
miniatures of the Asiatic breeds. Generally, bantams have not been bred or selected for egg shell
color. Araucanas are an exception. Color of their
egg shells may vary but is usually blue to green.
The first few eggs a bantam hen lays will probably be somewhat smaller than her normal
eggs. Color of the egg shell usually becomes
lighter after the hen has been in production for
a long time.
Broodiness Broodiness is the inherited tendency of a hen to remain on the nest to incubate
eggs. Most bantam hens eventually become
broody but Mediterranean varieties and certain
other breeds which lay white eggs tend to frequently desert their nests, thus resulting in chilling and death of the unhatched embryos.
Many miniatures of the heavy breeds (especially the feather-legged breeds) are exceptionally
good setters and mothers. Cochin and Silkie
bantam hens are persistant setters and careful
mothers. They are often used as foster mothers
for other breeds of bantams or game birds.
Eating Quality Bantam meat has a very fine texture and flavor. Their small carcasses can’t compete on the commercial market but surplus birds
can be eaten at home. The meat from older birds
may be firmer, require longer to cook and be
somewhat darker than meat from young birds.
In these cases, moist heat cookery is suggested.
Tendency to Get Larger Even though bantams are
inherently small, some tend to become larger
than desired due to today’s growth-promoting
feeds and good care. Out-crossing or bringing
new blood in from another flock also tends to increase bird size. Larger birds should be culled
and slaughtered.
Some breeders hatch eggs late in the season
because late-hatched chicks tend to mature
sooner and be smaller than chicks hatched
earlier. However, late-hatched chicks will eventually grow nearly as large as chicks hatched
earlier. It is best to obtain small-sized breeding
stock when you start. Raise a good number of
young and keep the medium- to small-sized
healthy, normal individuals as breeders.
Breeds & Varieties
There are many breeds of bantams. Most breeds
have more than one variety. Bantams are identified by breed the same as other fowl and
livestock. Breed differences are those of shape,
body outline and “type.“ Variety differences
usually consist of differences in color pattern or
special distinguishing features. The following
table lists most of the recognized breeds and the
most common varieties in each breed.
There is no one “best” breed. The variety of
shapes, features and colors is so great that there
is literally “something for everyone.” The following guidelines may be helpful in selecting
breeds:
Games and Cornish need plenty of exercise
to develop the desired hard feathering and
muscle tone.
• Cochins do well in confinement.
• Crested breeds such as Polish and Houdans
should not be allowed to get their heads wet
in cool or cold weather.
• Don’t let feather-legged breeds run in wet or
tall grass or extremely muddy areas.
• All white varieties tend to become “brassy
colored” if kept in direct sunlight, especially
if they eat a lot of green grass or yellow corn.
• It is easier to produce good specimens of
black or white varieties than of the particolored varieties, although some prefer the
appearance of the parti-colored varieties.
• Adult Modern and Old English Game males
must be dubbed (comb and wattles
removed).
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BREED
VARIETIES
SPECIAL DISTINGUISHING FEATURES
Modern Games
Birchen, Black, Black
Breasted Red, Blue, Blue
Breasted Red, Brown Red,
Golden Duckwing, Lemon
Blue, Red Pyle, Silver
Duckwing, Wheaten, White
Adult male must be dubbed
Old-English Games
Adult males to be dubbed, tall
Birchen, Black, Black
Breasted Red, Blue, Blue Breasted
Red, Blue Golden Duckwing, Blue
Silver Duckwing, Brown Red,
Crele, Cuckoo, Golden Duckwing,
Lemon Blue, Red Pyle, Self Blue,
Silver Duckwing, Spangled,
Wheaten, White
Antwerp Belgians
Black, Blue, Cuckoo, Mille
Fleur, Mottled, Porcelain,
Quail, Self Blue, White
Bearded, short body, small
Dorkings
White
White skin and shanks, 5 toes
Hamburgs
Black, Golden Penciled,
Golden Spangled, Silver Penciled, Silver Spangled, White
Leghorns
Black, Buff, Dark Brown,
Light Brown, Silver, White
Dominiques
Large rose comb
Redcaps
Rhode Island Whites
Rosecombs
Black, Blue, White
Large disc-like white earlobe
3
BREED
VARIETIES
SPECIAL DISTINGUISHING FEATURES
Sebrights
Wyandottes
Golden, Silver
Hen feathered males
Black, Blue, Buff, Buff Columbian, Columbian, White,
Golden Laced, Partridge,
Silver Laced, Silver Penciled
Curvy, rounded bodies
Australorps
Black
White skin and foot pads, beetlegreen sheen to feathers
Andalusians
Blue
Catalanas
Buff
Golden, Silver
Anconas*
Campines
Males appear somewhat hen
feathered.
Delawares
Dorkings*
Colored, Silver Gray
White skin, 5 toes
Frizzles
Hollands
Clean legged, Feather legged
Reverse curl to all feathers
White, Barred
Japanese
Black, Black Tailed Buff,
Black Tailed White, Gray,
Mottled, White
Javas
Black, Mottled
Jersey Giants
Lakenvelders
Lamonas
Leghorns*
Black, White
White
Black, Black Tailed Red, Buff,
Columbian, Dark Brown,
Light Brown, Silver, Golden
Duckwing, Red, White
Very short legs, large
vertical tails
Yellow skin and foot pad
Small, trim and stylish
Minorcas*
Black, White, Buff
White skin and shanks, large single
comb
Naked Necks
Buff, Red, Black, White
Bare necks and no cape, reduced
number of feathers over entire body
New Hampshires
Red
Light red plumage
Orpingtons
Black, Blue, Buff, White
White skin and shanks, loosely
feathered
Phoenix
Silver, Golden
Long tails
Plymouth Rocks
Barred, Blue, Buff,
Columbian, Partridge,
Silver Penciled, White
Wide, flat backs
Dark red plumage
Rhode Island Red*
Sussex
Spanish
Light, Red, Speckled
White Faced Black
*Also exists in rose comb for some varieties
4
White skin and shanks
Extensive whitening of facial skin
BREED
VARIETIES
SPECIAL DISTINGUISHING FEATURES
Araucanas
Black, Black Red, Golden
Duckwing, Silver Duckwing,
White
Lays eggs with blue-green shells,
often tufted
Aseels
Dark, Spangled, Wheaten,
White
Tall, cruel expression
Buckeves
Chanteclers
Partridge, White
Cornish
Blue Laced Red, Buff,
Dark, White, White Laced
Red
Crevecoeurs
Black
Cubalayas
White, Black Breasted Red,
Tall, long and droopy tails
Houdans
Mottled, White
Bearded, crested, 5 toes
La Fleche
Black
Comb consists of two side by side
fleshy spires
Malays
Black, Black Breasted Red,
Spangled, White
Strawberry comb, very tall and long
legged
Polish
Bearded and Non-Bearded;
Buff Laced, Golden, Silver,
White, White Crested Black,
White Crested Blue
Crested
Shamos
Black, Dark, Wheaten
Tall upright body carriage
Sicilian Buttercups
Tightly feathered,
solid muscled, short
heavy legs, broad body
Cup shaped comb
Sumatras
Black
Multiple spurs, beetle-green sheen,
dark faces
Yokohamas
Red Shouldered, White
Long tail
Booted
Bearded: Mille Fleur,
Porcelain, White
Non-Bearded: Mille Fleur,
Porcelain, White
Vulture hocks
Brahmas
Buff, Dark, Light
Small pea comb and wattles
Cochins
Barred, Birchen, Black, Blue,
Brown, Buff, Columbian,
Red, Golden Laced, Partridge,
Mottled, Silver Laced, White
Soft, fluffy feathers and rounded
contours
Faverolles
Salmon, White
Bearded, 5 toes
Frizzles
Feather legged
Reverse curl to feathers
Langshans
Black, White
Silkies
Bearded: Black, White
Non-Bearded: Black, White
Crested, 5 toes, black skin, hair-like
feathers
Sultans
White
Vulture hocks
5
6
7
Getting Started
with Bantams
Start with at least three birds (a trio-one male
and two females) of a breed and variety
recognized in the Standard of Perfection. Three
birds per variety is the minimum number recommended. Separate adult birds by varieties.
• Maintain birds in comfortable quarters. Provide feed, water and reasonable protection at
all times.
• Keep a record of management practices such
as type and dates of vaccinations, when birds
were checked for parasites, dates artificial
lights were turned on, etc.
• Try to rear several birds from each adult trio
(six per adult female is a good goal).
• Maintain accurate and complete records on
purchases, sales, egg production and hatching for each variety.
• Attend a major poultry exhibition (showing
is encouraged but not required).
• Don’t overcrowd your facilities. There are
many attractive breeds and varieties of bantams but limit your choices according to
equipment and available time.
Securing Breeding
Stock
Start with good, young, vigorous breeding
stock. Purchase breeding stock from an
established breeder whose strains of birds are
uniform. Remember that price is not always a
good indicator of quality.
Try to visit one or more bantam breeders. Have
them explain the characteristics of varieties.
Then compare birds to illustrations, including
those in the Standard of Perfection and select
the variety which appeals to you. Check with the
poultry science department of your state university and read advertisements in poultry publications (see p. 14) to learn where you can purchase
birds.
Many breeds and varieties of bantams are
available in most areas. It’s best to deal with local
suppliers whom you can contact for advice.
Birds raised locally will be better acclimatized.
Selection & Mating
It is best to have only one male per mating pen.
More than one male can be allowed in large pens
or yards if fighting is not a problem. Usually,
8
however, more than one male is not recommended since they interfere with each other
during mating and fewer fertile eggs result.
Allow two to eight females per each young,
vigorous male. It’s best to allow only one to five
females per male if males are more than 2 years
old.
Except for old Cornish and exceptionally loosefeathered Cochins, bantams are usually fertile
and relatively easy to breed. Before saving eggs
for hatching, it is a good policy to clip some of
the feathers around the vent area of male and
female Cochins and other heavily feathered
birds.
Artificial
Insemination
The body confirmation or profuse feathering
in certain breeds results in mating problems.
Artificial insemination for these and old birds
may prove beneficial. County Extension offices usually have publications which explain
artificial insemination in poultry.
The following are some important considerations in selecting and mating bantams:
1. Breed only healthy stock.
2. Reproduce only from the best individuals.
3. Do not breed birds with serious defects or
disqualifications.
4. Do not attempt to hatch eggs in late fall or
winter unless you have a satisfactory place
to rear chicks.
5. Make as many combinations as possible
from the parent stock. Mate only the best
birds to individuals of the same variety.
6. Raise as many as chicks as can be cared for
properly. This will let you to be very selective when deciding which birds to keep next
year.
7. Do not introduce new stock every year. A
good plan is to bring in new stock from the
original source every 2 to 4 years.
8. Start with good breeding stock.
9. Keep a record of and identify the offspring
from each mating. Identify chicks by toe
punching, web clipping or banding.
10. Get advice from successful breeders and
judges
Incubation
Bantam eggs are incubated for 21 days. Seasonal
effects, incubating conditions, or strain differences may increase or decrease the incubation
period by one day.
There are three satisfactory methods of
incubation:
Broody hens.
Your own incubator.
Custom hatching.
The incubation method you select often depends
on choices available in your area. Many commercial hatcheries are reluctant to accept eggs for
custom hatching.
Several publications have plans for building a
simple incubator and operating instructions.
These publications or addresses for obtaining
them can usually be obtained from your county
Extension offices.
Don’t overlook the broody hen, nature’s oldest
incubator. She can brood chicks as well as hatch
eggs. Consider the following factors when relying on hens to hatch eggs:
• Provide a darkened nest which is easy for the
hen to enter.
• Do not allow any other chickens in the same
pen with the setting hen. Other chickens
tend to annoy the setting hen.
• Make sure the hen is free from external
parasites (lice and mites) before she sets and
again before eggs hatch. Apply a good
poultry louse powder if there’s any sign of
lice.
• Do not give the hen more eggs than she can
completely cover (usually eight to eleven
eggs).
• Provide a supply of fresh feed and water for
the setting hen each day. She will normally
leave the nest to feed for a few minutes each
day. Feed all grain or mostly grain because
mash tends to result in loose droppings
which may soil eggs.
Rearing the Young
Handle bantam chicks the same as other young
chickens. Newly hatched chicks can live on the
unabsorbed yolk in their bodies for about 72
hours if necessary. However, chicks with
access to feed
and water will
begin to eat and
drink when less
than one day of
age.
Bantams can be started on wire, cloth or litter.
The feet of young chicks are small and tender.
Use 1/3-inch mesh wire as bantams tend to catch
their feet and legs in 1/2-inch mesh. Many fanciers prefer to start their birds on coarse cloth
such as burlap to provide a soft surface which
is rough enough for good footing.
Brooders should maintain a temperature of 95° F
(taken at one inch above the floor level, the
height of the chick’s back) during the first week.
Possible heat sources include:
1. Hover type brooders (electric, gas or oil)
2. Electric heat lamps
3. Battery brooders (electrically heated)
4. Brooder boxes heated by light bulbs
5. A mother hen
A large cardboard box with a couple of 25 or 40
watt light bulbs arranged near one end works
very well if you raise only a few birds. Check the
temperature with a thermometer and cover the
box so cats, dogs and small children can’t harm
or bother the tiny chicks.
Make sure chicks have easy access to feed and
water. As the birds grow, arrange feeders and
waterers to limit spillage and prevent contamination. Clean fruit jar lids make good feeders and
waterers for baby bantams. These must be filled frequently. In a few days they can be replaced with tuna fish cans or commercial feeders
and waterers.
Dampness provides favorable conditions for the
development of molds and disease organisms.
Keep feed and water clean and make sure the litter on the floor is clean and dry.
The brooding temperature can be reduced about
5 degrees per week. Also provide more space as
birds grow. Roosts a few inches off the floor can
be provided at 4 to 6 weeks of age.
Each breed of bantams has a unique temperament and does best if raised with its own kind.
Some birds are bullied and
cannibalism and feather picking tend to increase when
several breeds
are raised together
Type means body
outline or shape. Breeds
are characterized by their
type. How many breeds can you
identify in these drawings.
9
Feeding Bantams
Bantams require very small amounts of feed.
Feed need not be expensive but must meet birds’
nutritional needs. Professionals may use feeds
formulated specially for bantams but the following feeding program will give good results.
Baby Bantams Use a good commercial chicken
starter mash which contains 18 to 20 per cent
protein. Feed this in granular form or as
crumbles. Use no other feed. Make sure bantams always have access to feed for the first 6 to
8 weeks.
Growing Bantams Bantams more than 8 weeks
of age can be fed starter mash plus some chick
scratch. Gradually increase the amount of
scratch offered until it represents about one-half
of the total feed at 16 weeks of age. Growing
mash can be substituted for the starter mash
when chicks are more than 10 weeks of age.
Mature Bantams A feed consisting of about onehalf hen scratch and one-half laying mash is
satisfactory for males and adult hens not in egg
production. Feed laying hens all the egg mash
they want plus a small amount of grain and provide oyster shells.
Good feeders and
waters can be made
from empty 1/2 and 1
gallon plastic jugs.
These inexpensive containers
are satisfactory for small flocks.
Simple nest boxes can be made from wood or cardboard. The smallest dimension
should be at least 9
inches
Breeding Birds Bantam hens expected to provide
eggs for hatching should receive a “breeder”
type mash instead of the regular egg mash. It’s
best to start feeding this breeder mash about 1
month before saving eggs for hatching. The
breeder type mash provides more vitamins and
nutrients needed for strong, healthy chicks.
Always make sure bantams have easy access to
clean, fresh feed. It is a good practice to feed daily and to feed no more than birds will consume
in 24 hours.
Store feed in moisture-proof and rodentresistant containers equipped with tight-fitting
lids. Keep containers closed except when feed is
removed. Inexpensive, lightweight metal lard
and shortening drums from bakeries are excellent containers to store feed, litter and small
items of equipment.
Bantams relish a few blades of grass, bits of lettuce or other greens. Feed only small amounts
at a time. Make sure fresh, green plant material
is free from molds and chemical residues such
as insecticides. Chopping greens into short
lengths will help prevent material from becoming impacted in the crop or gizzard in case the
bird overeats.
Supply grit to all bantams. Laying hens should
have access to oyster shell flakes.
10
46-ounce fruit juice cans can
be made into simple "self"
feeders. Simply cut the can as
shown above and fasten a
piece of wood to the sides.
Avoid frequent or drastic changes in the diet of
bantams which might cause hens to stop laying
and begin molting (annual loss of feathers).
Water is a part of good nutrition too. Make sure
your bantams always have a supply of clean,
fresh water.
As shown on the left, many items of equipment
for bantams can be easily made from used and
scrap materials found around the home.
Housing & Runs
A square piece of
heavy board with three
equally spaced finishing nails makes a good base
for feed or water containers. Spools or blocks to
form short legs and allow air circulation beneath
make it still better.
Good feed storage containers
can be obtained from a local
bakery or pasty
shop at low cost.
Satisfactory housing for bantams can be crude
or elaborate.
In general, housing must provide:
1. Protection from:
–rain, wind, snow and inclement weather
–predators (cats, dogs, rats, mink, possum,
coon, etc.)
–others who might scare, annoy, hurt or steal
your bantams
2. Adequate Space
For movement and exercise plus area for
roosts and nests. The space required varies
with the breed and the pen size. Birds in large
pens require less area per bird than those in
small pens. An area 3 feet square is the
minimum amount of space required by a
breeding trio. More space is desirable.
3. Easy Access to Feed and Water
Feeders and waterers should be convenient
for birds to eat and drink and for you to clean
and fill.
4.
The larger sizes of empty fruit cans make
good feed and water
containers when fitted with simple
wire hooks. Attach
them to partitions
or walls.
A Source of Light
Egg production in bantams, like all birds, is
stimulated when day length increases. This
occurs naturally in the spring and can be produced with electric lights at other times. Windows are usually placed in the south side of
bantam houses. They should be kept clean to
give maximum light. Protect them from
breakage with woven wire so birds will not
fly into them. Windows can be removed in
mild and warm weather to increase air circulation. Electric lights can artificially increase
day length for early spring egg production.
Electric lights are also handy when working
during the night.
5. Ventilation
Ample air movement without drafts is essential. Fresh air brings in needed oxygen while
excess moisture, ammonia, and carbon diox11
ide is removed when stale air moves out of
the house. The best arrangement for ventilation in small bantam houses and coops is to
tightly close three sides and provide openings
to admit and expell air on the remaining side.
Locate openings on the side away from
prevailing winds. The best location is usually the south or east side. Use two openings;
one which is higher than the other. Cover
openings with baffles or lightweight cloth.
A well-ventilated house must also have plenty of insulation and a good vapor barrier.
Failure to insulate and ventilate properly
causes moisture to accumulate on the walls
and ceiling in cool weather. Bantams are
never comfortable and seldom stay healthy in
a damp house.
Bantams can be successfully raised indoors or
in total confinement. However, they do enjoy
direct sunlight and the opportunity to exercise outside. Consider using a portable,
covered run which can be moved from time
to time.
Diseases
Bantams are affected by very few diseases and
seldom transmit any disease to humans.
All chickens need to develop resistance to coccidiosis. Provide a starter mash containing a coccidiostat until birds are 8 weeks of age. This will
usually provide ample protection. However, if
birds have ruffled feathers and pass blood in
their droppings, immediately add an approved
coccidiostat to the drinking water. These coccidiostats may be obtained from a hatchery,
veterinarian or the animal health department of
a rural drug store. Follow label directions.
Bronchitis is a respiratory disease which spreads
rapidly among all chickens. A vaccine for this
malady is available from hatcheries or veterinarians. Vaccination for bronchitis is recommended before birds are taken to shows. Vaccinate 30
days or more before showing and vaccinate all
birds on your place at the same time.
Pullorum Pullorum is a disease transmitted to
the chick via the egg. Carrier parents can be
eliminated from the breeding pen by a simple
blood test. County Extension offices may have
more information about the test.
Seek advice from a trained veterinarian or
poultry pathologist for other diseases or
ailments. Many states have animal diagnostic
laboratories where you can obtain diagnosis and
suggested treatment.
12
Good care and clean quarters will go a long way
toward keeping your bantams healthy but get
professional help quickly when you notice a
problem in your flock.
Parasites
Parasites may be internal or external. Worms are
an example of internal parasites; lice and mites
are external parasites.
Good management will help prevent worms.
Birds raised on the ground, especially where
older chickens have previously run, should be
wormed at 12 to 16 weeks of age and again just
before starting egg production. Worms are
seldom a problem with bantams raised on wire
or dry litter and away from older birds.
Lice and mites are always a potential problem.
A good plan is to dust each bird on the first day
of every month with a good poultry insecticide
powder. Sprinkle some powder in the nests and
on roost areas. An alternative is to paint the
roosts with a poultry roost paint once a month.
Selecting, Fitting
& Showing
Birds selected for show should be the best
specimens in their best condition. Birds should
be clean, healthy and as near to complete feather
as possible. Young birds should be at least 4
months old at time of showing; 6 or 7 months
is better.
Acquaint bantams with show-sized coops
several days before the exhibit. Handle them
repeatedly and gently so they are not afraid and
will stand naturally. You can teach a bird to
assume the desired pose by repeatedly offering
it bits of bread, grass or hamburger on a small
stick. This will increase your chances of receiving the top award for which your bird is eligible.
Blue ribbons often result from a good job of
preparation.
Shows serve the bantam raiser in many ways.
They are a chance to compare your birds with
those of other fanciers. A judge’s placings help
owners make these comparisons. Exhibitors
should be present during judging and not be
afraid to ask questions. The answers given by the
judge will help you prepare for the next show.
The awards, the sport of competition and thrill
of having produced a winner add to the excitement and benefits of the bantam show. Bantams
are interesting and quite unusual. They are a
popular attraction at fairs and shows.
Fair Classes
Bantams are classified as follows:
Cock– a male hatched prior to the current calendar year.
Hen– a female hatched prior to the current calendar year.
Cockerel– a male hatched during the current calendar year.
Pullet– a female hatched during the current calendar year.
In large shows these four classes are set up for each breed and variety. Smaller shows and county
fairs may have fewer classes. The various breeds and varieties may be grouped by features into
the following five categories:
1. All
2. All
3. All
4. All
5. All
single combed, clean legged breeds.
rose combed, clean legged breeds.
other combed, clean legged breeds.
feather legged breeds.
game breeds.
Review the Standard of Perfection to be sure you are familiar with the desirable characteristics of
your breed and variety.
13
Reference List
Standard of Perfection
American Poultry Association
Route 4, Box 351, Troy, New York 12180
Bantam Standard (and other books and supplies pertaining to bantams)
American Bantam Association
Fred P. Jeffrey, Secretary
97 Pine Street, North Amherst , Massachusetts 01059
Artificial lnsemination of Poultry (Wisconsin Fact Sheet 31)
Chicken Breeds and Varieties (Wisconsin Bulletin A2880)
Conditioning Standard Bred Poultry and Bantams for the Show Room (Texas A&M Bulletin MP1066)
From Egg to Chick (Illinois Bulletin 878)
How to Operate a Small lncubator (Wisconsin Fact Sheet A3226)
Pullorum Testing for Small Flock Owners (Wisconsin Fact Sheet 50)
Showing and Judging (Wisconsin Fact Sheet 51)
Keeping Poultry Healthy (Ohio Bulletin 643)
Check with your State Extension poultry specialist(s) for additional references.
Backyard Poultry
312 Portland Road, Hwy 19 East, Waterloo, WI 53594
Feather Fancier
R R . 5, Forest, Ontario, Canada NON 1JO
Hen House Herald
1011 Council Bluffs, IA 51502
Poultry Press
P.O. Box 947, York, PA 17405
Many Extension offices have slide sets available for loan to 4-H leaders and/or club officers.
14
John L. Skinner is professor of poultry science, College of Agricultural and Life Sciences, University of
Wisconsin-Madison, and Cooperative Extension Service, University of Wisconsin-Extension.
Programs and activities of the Cooperative Extension Service are available to all potential
clientele without regard to race, color, sex national origin, or handicap.
Editor, Kurt Gutknecht; designer, Teresa Foelker;
illustrator, Renee Graef; typesetter, Michael Venner.
In cooperation with NCR Educational Materials
Project # 209
For single copies of this and other North Central Regional Extension Publications, write to:
Publications Office, Cooperative Extension Service, in care of the University listed above for
your state.
If you want information about ordering quantities of this or other Regional Publications, write
or call the coordinating office for the NCR
Educational Materials Project, B-10 Curtiss Hall,
Iowa State University, Ames, IA 50011. (515)
294-8802.
Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension
work, Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30,
1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department
of Agriculture and Cooperative Extension Services of Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas,
Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska,
North Dakota, Ohio, and South Dakota. Charles
F. Koval, Director, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Wisconsin, Madison, Wisconsin 53706.