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File - SaltyFlyTying.com
Share Past Issues Translate RSS Drew Chicone's Salty Fly Tying Chronicle Friend on Facebook Follow on Twitter Salty Fly Tying Chronicle Forward to a Friend February 2013 In This Issue: "Virtues & Vises" Finally a vise that lives up to its claims. Highlighting Dyna-King's Indexer Vise. "Articles & Appearances" "Fish or Foul"? my latest article in this month's issue of Fly & Light Tackle Angler Feather Brain Pre Order Recently I partnered with Stackpole Books "Dave Johnson's Petti-Coat Streamer" Learn how to tie Dave Johnson's legendary Marabou baitfish pattern. It's one fly you must have in your box. Welcome to Salty Fly Tying Chronicle. My goal is to spread the word about new or unique materials, techniques and patterns that I come across each month. Thanks for reading, and as always, let me know what you think. Tell Drew Drew Virtues & Vises to publish my latest work Feather Brain How to Design Better Saltwater Flies. If you are interested in a signed copy of Feather Brain, Click Here and I will email you as soon as it becomes available. SFT Blog Saltwater Fly Tying Tips, Tricks, Tutorials & More... Check Out the Salty Fly Tying Blog by Click Here Let me start by saying that there are several high quality fly-tying vises on the market today, each offering a wide range of options and features. Choosing a vise that fits your budget and needs is difficult, especially if you haven’t had the chance to try before you buy. Over the past couple of decades I have acquired quite an eclectic collection of vises ranging in everything from manufacturer, shape, size and color. I have had the opportunity to tie on a wide variety of vises, and I have come to realize that you get what you pay for, and before you buy you better do your homework. Logo Gear One of the most touted differentiators amongst top-notch vise manufacturers is the size range of hook that their vises jaws can grasp effectively. “Effectively” being the objective word here… In my 27 years of experience, only a select few live up to these haughty claims. For me, a vise with a huge size range is far less important than one that can effectively handle my average hook size range. In 2003 I moved to Florida, and I haven’t tied on anything smaller than a size 6 since. The lion’s share of flies I tie for saltwater species fall in the 2-2/0 ranges, and with the exception of bonefish flies or the occasional bazar custom order, that range do not vary too much. Unfortunately this range seems to be right on the cusp of were most vises that “claim” to handle saltwater hooks seem to lose their grip and until recently the frequent hook shimmy or wrap unraveling hook slip seems to be inevitable. If your focus is cranking out larger saltwater flies constructed on heavy wire hooks, then you would be better served buying a piece of equipment that “Truly” can handle the 1/0-8/0 spectrum without spitting the hook across the room after a few heavy handed wraps. I just purchased a Dyna-King Indexer, which is basically a souped-up variation of their popular Barracuda model. The unique indexing systems enable the vise to rotate freely or stay stationary at eight points located on the axis of rotation. This is a very nice feature, but the real key and fundamental advantage to a Dyna-King’s Kung Fu Grip for the larger saltwater hooks is the notched jaw. Various sized groves in the jaws allow the vise to clamp down on behemoth hooks like a junkyard dog on a ham bone. The widest grove at the back of the jaw works best for larger ought size hooks, while the next smaller grove is better suited for securing the lower end of the saltwater hook range. Smooth jaws are also available, but I can not stress the importance of the notched jaws enough! Shirts, Hats, Decal's, Travel Mug's you name it! For more colors, styles & options check out the Salty Fly Tying Online Store I’m ecstatic to say that I have finally discovered a vise that can back up what it promises. As a newly converted follower I think it’s appropriate to say… Long live the King! Articles & Appearances If you're interested in learning some new tying techniques to keep your flies from fouling, check out my latest article "Fish or Foul"? in this months issue of Fly & Light Tackle Angler. Pat Ford's tarpon eating a fly sequence is amazing! Fly & Light Tackle Angler is a bimonthly publication covering domestic and international fly and light-tackle fishing. Our emphasis is on coastal saltwater and warm, freshwater fisheries with occasional coverage of top coldwater destinations. As an app-based digital publication, FLTA promises delivery of highly interactive content to mobile device readers. Dave Johnson's Petti-Coat Streamer Former Collieander Cup Winner, and TFO Advisory Staff Member Dave Johnson has undoubtedly forgotten more about fly-fishing than most fly-rodders will ever know. His nearly fifty-year career in the outdoor industry began in 1968 at the Indianapolis fly casters tying class. It wasn’t until 1975 when a tier from Chicago had given him a dubbing twister (a paper clip and brass tube) that he created his signature fly the Petti-Coat Streamer. Living in Indiana most of Dave’s fly-fishing was for Bluegills, Smallmouth and Largemouth bass. Living in Indiana most of Dave’s fly-fishing was for Bluegills, Smallmouth and Largemouth bass. The Petti Coat streamer was originally designed for to target those species, however it’s track record for taking countless species in both fresh and saltwater far surpassed exactions. “Marabou has the most action in the water than any other material I know of. When the marabou is placed and spread out in the loop, and twisted, (locked in the thread) then palmered forward the marabou encompasses the body of the hook that is the reason I call it the Petti coat streamer.” Said Dave. When pulled through still water or in moving water the marabou tips move all around the hook, the profile of the fly looks like a bait fish. When the fly is stopped, the hook sinks down the wing flare up. Because of the marabou is twisted in the loop, the fly is imparted with a lifelike action, yet the marabou does not foul. That is what makes the Petti coat so effective. Materials Hook: #6-6/0 Saltwater style hook (34007) Thread: White 3/0 Mono Cord or Flat Waxed Nylon Tail: Pearl Flashabou Body: Mylar Tinsel or Flashabou, 15lb Mono Wing: Marabou Misc.: Dubbing Twister, Bulldog Clip Adhesive: Clear Cure Goo Hydro Step 1: Start the thread at the eye of the hook and wrap back 1/8”. Turn the hook over (point up) and tie in mono under side of hook. Wrap thread back over mono to just past hook point, turn hook back over so it is point down. Place a half hitch to secure wraps. Tie in the tinsel at half hitch, and wrap thread forward 3/16” from eye of hook, wrap tinsel forward to thread, tie off, cut excess tinsel off. Step 2: Make an overhand knot with the mono (around) hook with tag end of mono towards the eye of hook. Pull the mono up snug and wrap the mono forward to the thread, and tie off the mono. Trim excess and add a thin coat of head cement over the mono body and thread wraps. Step 3: Wrap thread back 1/4” from hook eye, double two pieces of flashabou (pearl) towards back of hook and tie in for the tail. Pull the bobbin down and make 4 to 5 “ loop with the thread. Make two wraps around hook shank to complete the loop. Make one or two wraps around both legs of the loop to close it. Advance your thread forward 3/16 from eye of the hook and lock it with a half hitch. Step 4: Cut or pull the Marabou barbs from the quill, so that the length of marabou is about one and a half to two and a half inches. Gather and secure the loose marabou barbs using some kind of spring-loaded clip. A metal bulldog clip or office folder clip works well for this. Continue this process until you have a pencil sized gather of marabou in the clip. Step 5: Take the marabou out of the clip hold the marabou with your left hand fingers, and trim the butt ends so they are even. Step 6: Hook the thread loop with the dubbing twister, put the marabou into loop and pull twister towards you until it is taught, this will close the loop. Evenly disperse the marabou within the loop, leaving about 3/16” gap between the marabou and the shank of the hook. The butts or cut ends of the marabou quills should protrude from the loop about a 1/16”. Step 7: Keeping pressure on the loop to keep it closed, rotate the twister clockwise about 30 to 40 turns. Palmer the marabou-dubbing loop forward, blowing the marabou back toward the point with each wrap. Once you reach the eye of the hook, tie off the loop and cut away the excess. Whip finish, cut away the thread and apply a thin layer of cement head or clear cure goo hydro to secure. Thanks again for sharing, Dave! Until next time, keep your wraps tight & your feathers straight! www.saltyflytying.com follow on Twitter | friend on Facebook | forward to a friend Copyright © Andrew D. Chicone 2012* Salty Fly Tying, All rights reserved. unsubscribe from this list | update subscription preferences
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