buying guide - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Transcription

buying guide
april 2013
Eitan Simanor/Robert Harding
An Israeli vineyard with the Dead Sea and Jordan in the
background.
2 israel
41 new zealand
13 other asia
45 california
13 greece
61 washington
14 tuscany
68 new york
27 burgundy
71 spirits
38 portugal
73 beer
40 other europe
for additional ratings and
reviews, visit
buyingguide.WineMag.com
41 morocco
WineMag.com | 1
israel
kosher wines for your consideration
W
ith the approach of the Jewish holiday Passover, the demand for
kosher wine rises, as four glasses of wine per person are ritually consumed during the holiday dinner, or seder. Many shoppers
seem reluctant to purchase kosher wines, as if they can’t compare to their
nonkosher counterparts. But although kosher wines once had poor reputations, recent advances have increased their variety and quality, prompting
consumers to rethink their opinions.
Generally speaking, kosher wine must be produced according to the Jewish dietary laws and under strict rabbinical supervision. Commercially available wines must have the hechsher (seal of approval) of a rabbi, supervising agency or organization (such as the “OU” sign of the Orthodox Union).
A kosher wine labeled mevushal has undergone an additional heating process, which makes it possible for non-Jews or nonobservant Jews to handle
the finished product while still preserving the wine’s kosher certification.
In the past, mevushal practices truly did result in boiled wine—hardly
conducive to high quality. But flash-pasteurization—which involves expos-
chardonnay
ing the wine to a temperature of 160–165˚F for 15–30 seconds while the liquid moves in a continuous flow—is far less damaging to the wine.
This month’s top Israeli wines are worth considering not just for the holidays, but for year-round enjoyment. The country’s wine producers have
made significent strides over recent years, and are now producing high quality wines thanks to a deepened understanding of Israel’s terroirs and which
grape varieties perform best in the Mediterranean climate.
Elsewhere in this month’s Buying Guide, you’ll find reviews of recent releases from Tuscany, Burgundy, New Zealand, Portugal and Greece, as well
as a handful of Eastern European wines worth discovering. From the states,
we have hundreds of reviews from California, Washington and New York.
And as always, be sure to check out our comprehensive online database at
buyingguide.winemag.com—complete with a kosher wine search function—
for even more wonderful reviews from around the world.
L’Chaim!
—Lauren Buzzeo
helps to lift the medium-length close. Kosher. Yarden
Wines, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
Bright and flavorful with a fresh, mouthwatering finish.
Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
86
Alexander 2011 Liza Chardonnay (Gali
lee). Underipe nectarine, lemon pith and a
touch of freshly dried grass start off the bouquet of
this Chardonnay. The medium-weight palate transitions into ripe flavors of melon and pear flesh that carry
through to the slightly flabby finish. Kosher. Royal Wine
Corporation. —L.B.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $NA
85
Recanati 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Shom
ron). This is a vegetal Sauvignon Blanc, with
forward aromas of green pepper, asparagus, green plum
and a touch of talcum powder on the nose. Tart, lean,
green fruit flavors fill the mouth, ending on a brisk yet
clean finish. Kosher. Palm Bay International. —L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
88
86
sparkling wine
88
other white wines
90
Golan Heights Winery 2011 Yarden
Odem Vineyard Chardonnay (Galilee).
Bright apple, pear and orange notes lead the nose of
this well-balanced Chardonnay, with secondary accents
of toast, sweet spice and nut. The vibrant mouthfeel
is full but not flabby, with an attractive peach-pit flavor that carries through the long finish. Delicious now,
but also should age well through 2017. Kosher. Yarden
Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Golan Heights Winery 2010 Yarden
Odem Vineyard Chardonnay (Galilee).
This is a ripe and rich Chardonnay, with exuberant fruit
notes of pineapple and peach laced with sweet orange
acidity and soft toast flavors. The lush palate is full but
balanced, with a richness that carries through to the
softly nutty finish. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Recanati 2011 Chardonnay (Galilee).
Forward aromas and flavors of yellow apple,
peach flesh and orange rind lead this wine, with secondary highlights of oaky spice and toast that add depth
to the palate. The mouthfeel is round and filling, with
fresh acidity and a medium-length finish. Kosher. Palm
Bay International. —L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
87
Golan Heights Winery 2009 Gilgal Char
donnay (Galilee). This wine starts off smelling overly ripe, with sweet orange, yellow apple flesh,
peach supreme and juicy melon aromas that flood the
bouquet. The mouth is full and round, but a nutty accent adds depth to the palate while medium acidity
Psagot 2011 Chardonnay (Judean Hills).
Toasty and oaky, with wood-grilled peach and
roasted apple-skin aromas unfolding on the nose.
Melon and pear flavors flesh out the medium-weight
mouth, and linger alongside hints of sweet spice and
charred wood on the close. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $22
88
Golan Heights Winery NV Gilgal Brut
(Galilee). Fresh yet rich, this sparkler boasts
great balance between the red-apple and orange fruit
notes and the toasty, sweet spice accents. Tart but full
on the palate, the creamy moussse is countered by
bright acidity, followed by a long finish reminiscent of
wood-grilled apples. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
88
rosés
86
85
Galil Mountain 2011 Yiron Vineyard Viog
nier (Upper Galilee). Fresh, vibrant and attractive, this Viognier boasts forward aromas of ripe
melon, lychee, honeysuckle florals and soft sweet spice.
Medium weight, but clean and balanced, with medium
acidity and a hint of clementine, which lifts the rich fruit
flavors. The floral accents shine through on the finish.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
Golan Heights Winery 2011 Yarden Sau
vignon Blanc (Galilee). This wine is nicely
balanced and easy to drink, with clean notes of green
plum, gooseberry, white melon rind and lime peel.
86
Galil Mountain 2011 Dry Rosé (Galilee).
Made from 75% Sangiovese, 13% Barbera, 10%
Pinot Noir and 2% Syrah, this is a fresh and lively rosé
with bright notes of strawberry, raspberry and red cherry. A soft floral accent unfolds on the finish. Drink now.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Recanati 2011 Rosé (Galilee). Tart redberry and savory herb aromas lead the nose
of this rosé made from 70% Barbera and 30% Merlot.
Continued on Page 11
2 | wine enthusiast | april 2013
The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated
by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified
tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include
Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director
Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa,
Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael
Schachner, Contributing Taster Andrew Hoover and Spirits
Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger
Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome,
California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing
Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa and Contributing Editors
Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Seattle.
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s
initials appear following the note. When no initials appear
following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or
more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input
of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by
Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product,
its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by
the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices
are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.
98
Marchesi Antinori 2009 Guado al Tasso
(Bolgheri Superiore). This is a landmark
wine from a landmark vintage. The blend is Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot,
which results in a generous, striking and unforgettable
product. The bouquet is elegant and toned, with aromas
of dark fruit, tobacco and chocolate. The mouthfeel is
tight and firm, and it boasts persistence and impressive
balance. It has all of the qualities required for long-term
aging, so keep this for 10 years or more. Ste. Michelle
Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
96
World’s End 2009 Good Times, Bad
Times Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Structurally, this is
near perfect, with sturdy yet supple tannins and bright
acids that perk up the flavors of blackberry jam, milk
chocolate, red currants and crème de cassis. This is classic Napa Cabernet Sauvignon; it’s great to drink now,
but it will also slowly evolve in the bottle over the next
decade. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $100
Tasting Methodology and Goals
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed
blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in
peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in
assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or
uncustomary are retasted.
About the Scores
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:
Superb 94–97:
Excellent 90–93:
Very Good 87–89:
Good 83–86:
Acceptable 80–82:
The pinnacle of quality.
A great achievement.
Highly recommended.
Often good value; well recommended.
Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances.
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
points) are not reviewed.
Special Designations
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent
quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any
price with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae
for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are
generally priced at $15 or less.
Submitting Products for Review
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing
location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.
com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting
& Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@
wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting
products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted
for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted
will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All
samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission
forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site.
Labels
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given
the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and
printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on
label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax
866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net.
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at
buyingguide.winemag.com
95
97
Goldschmidt 2009 Game Ranch Single
Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville). This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is aged in
85% new oak, and it shows the essence of Oakville in
its dry, tannic, ripe and complex identity. It would be
hard to exaggerate the excellence of the blackberries,
black currants, black cherries, dark chocolate and oak
flavors, which have a Christmas-pudding-like headiness.
A hint of raisin suggests it approaches overripeness, yet
it maintains superb control. The tannins and overall balance should help this age for many years, but it can also
be consumed now. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $85
Brancaia 2009 Il Blu (Toscana). Sangiovese, Merlot and some Cabernet Sauvignon are
blended to create a bold and determined wine. Huge
aromas of espresso bean, black fruit, tobacco and dark
chocolate make for a meaty and dense bouquet. There’s
enormous depth on the palate, where the wine feels
rich and softly velvety. It’s a Tuscan blend of the highest caliber, so hold it for 10 years or more. E & J Gallo.
Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $85
95
96
Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Les
Grandes Lolières (Corton). Les Grandes
Lolières is a vineyard in the large Corton Grand Cru.
This Pinot Noir shows a delicate balance between fine
structure and beautiful red-fruit flavors. At the same
time, it has weight and richness that lend this wine power as well as the chance to age for many years. Loosen
Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $104
Fort Ross 2010 Fort Ross Vineyard Sea
Slopes Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Here’s
more proof that sometimes a winery’s least expensive
bottling can be its best. The wine is first class, from the
translucent ruby color to the power and delicacy of the
mouthfeel. There’s something haunting and distinctly
Fort Ross-ian in the wild cherry, mushroom and pine
flavors that seem to echo the fog, sun and redwood forests of this remote region. Really delicious now and
through 2018 or so. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
WineMag.com | 3
95
Joseph Drouhin 2010 Marquis de La
guiche Morgeot Premier Cru (ChassagneMontrachet). The vineyards of the Marquis de La
guiche date back to before the French Revolution, and
Drouhin is fully responsible for producing the wines
since the 1940s. This ripe, opulent selection lives up to
its illustrious pedigree. It is full bodied, and it offers vibrant acidity and minerality. It’s a wine for aging over
eight years and many more. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $114
95
Patland 2007 Stagecoach Vineyard Cab
ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Soft, decadent and approachable, this Cabernet Sauvignon is
blended with a little Malbec. It offers flavors of blackberry jam, black currant, dark chocolate and cedar that
continue on the long, spicy finish. This is lovely to drink
now and over the next five years. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $90
94
94
94
94
Geyser Peak 2007 Reserve Alexandre
Meritage (Alexander Valley). A great wine
for drinking now, this is just beginning to show the evolution of its primary blackberry, blueberry and currant
fruits. Hints of anise, dark chocolate, dried herb, spices
and cedar add interest. This is a blend of the classic Bordeaux varieties, but the Cabernet Sauvignon component stands front and center with its firm tannins, depth
and concentration. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
Joseph Drouhin 2010 Clos des Mouches
Premier Cru (Beaune). Round and soft initially, this rich, intense Chardonnay then shows its firm
side. In addition to the ripe yellow-fruit flavors, there is
a minerally, tight structure that promises that this wine
will age. Keep it for at least five years. Dreyfus, Ashby
& Co. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $120
94
95
Venge 2010 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Calistoga). Cabernet Sauvignon
doesn’t get much more rich or ripe than this bottling.
Made from grapes grown in Calistoga, this 100% varietal wine offers blackberry jam and crème de cassis flavors. Lots of new French oak influence adds sweet toast
and caramel notes. Dramatically complex and powerful, this tannic selection will benefit from being cellared
for a minimum of eight years, and it should continue
to develop well beyond that time frame. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $85
Joseph Drouhin 2010 Clos des Mouch
es Premier Cru (Beaune). This rich, powerful and juicy wine is just bursting out of its wood aging
bounds. It has opulent red-berry flavors, a core of firm
tannins and intense acidity. Ripe and fruity, this is full
of aging potential. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $109
Podere Sapaio 2009 Sapaio (Bolgheri
Superiore). A concentrated blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this
opens with dark spice and chocolate notes, followed by
luscious blackberry, prune and plum tones. Smooth and
extracted, this offers velvety tannins and generous fruit
flavors. It is packed with all kinds of opulent pleasure.
Lyra Wine. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $80
Tudal 2010 Clift Vineyard Cabernet Sau
vignon (Oak Knoll). This is fresh, tannic and
full bodied, and it offers deep flavors of blackberries
and cassis. Worth cellaring, this should begin to resolve
by 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $42
94
Venge 2010 Silencieux Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (Napa Valley). Made from fruit grown
in several notable Napa vineyards, this 100% Cabernet
Sauvignon has impressive weight and depth. Its black
currant, dark chocolate, anise, pepper and toasted cedar
flavors sink deep into the mouth with sweet insistence.
The tannins are considerable and will enable this wine
to age over the next 10 years. Pair this with rich meats
and cheeses. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $55
94
Venge 2010 Stagecoach Vineyard Block
I-4 Syrah (Napa Valley). With this wine,
Venge has taken a giant leap into the front ranks of
California Syrah producers. It’s made from fruit that’s
sourced from the great Stagecoach Vineyard, which
straddles Atlas Peak—a cool mountain region. The acidity is preserved, and the concentrated fruit easily handles
the 60% new French oak. Dramatic and high in alcohol,
this selection is gorgeous to drink now, and it will remain fresh over the next six years. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $54
93
Corley 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (Napa Valley). This 100% Cabernet
Sauvignon has rich, flashy flavors of spice and crème de
cassis, and it will reward some time in the cellar. The
tannins are strong, but the wine is drinkable now after
decanting and especially when paired with steak. It will
soften and mellow in 7–8 years, and it should last at
least 15 years while gradually losing fruit. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $80
93
MacRostie 2009 Wildcat Mountain Vine
yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This vintage rivals MacRostie’s 2006 and 2007 bottlings. It’s
already delicious thanks to the raspberry, cherry and
persimmon flavors that gain complexity from baking
spice and sweet, toasty oak notes. The brisk acidity is
just about perfect, and the finish is long and rich. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
93
94
Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Vineyard Se
lect Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla
Valley). This is only the sixth vintage that the Vineyard
Select has been produced. Spicy and tightly built, this
dense effort is made from Cabernet Sauvignon that was
sourced from three Walla Walla vineyards. Notes of fig,
cassis, chocolate, coffee and fresh earth are enlivened
by a hint of citrus rind. All in all, it’s a complex, well-appointed showcase of fabulous flavors. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $48
93
Ferrari-Carano 2009 Trésor Red Wine
(Sonoma County). This vintage of Trésor
is the winery’s best in years. A Bordeaux-style blend
that’s based on Cabernet Sauvignon, this is softly tannic and rich, and it offers layers of cherry pie, mocha
and smoky cedar. Best to enjoy now for its sheer drinkability. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $52
Domaine de Bellene 2010 Les Perrières
Premier Cru (Beaune). A rich, red-fruited
wine, this is packed with acidity and dry tannins, and
it promises to age. Keep this complex selection for five
years or more. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $56
93
93
Arista 2010 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Anderson Valley). Nuanced, expressive and floral, this demonstrates balance between the
tannins and mushroom-kissed Bing-cherry flavor. The
palate feels soft, silky and round, and the layer of dark
chocolate is the perfect finishing touch. Age it for 5–7
years, but it is also enjoyable now. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $58
93
Fort Ross 2009 Fort Ross Vineyard Re
serve Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Classic
Fort Ross Pinot Noir, this is rich and textural. The flavors of raspberry parfait and cherry pie are spicy, honeyed and brightened by acidity. Drink now, but it will
slowly evolve in the bottle over the next eight years.
—S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $65
Smith-Madrone 2007 Estate Bottled Cab
ernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). One
of the last 2007s to be released, and it’s still nowhere
near ready to drink. It’s astringent and bone dry, but it’s
also elegant. Complex flavors of blackberries, black currants, green olives, anise and cedar abound. It demonstrates the balance of the 2007 vintage and the ageability
of Spring Mountain wines. Cellar this for 8–10 years,
and it won’t be surprising if this still shows well at the
age of 20. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
WineMag.com | 5
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91
Solomon Hills 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Ma
ria Valley). As this wine constantly changes in
the glass, it is one to linger over to enjoy all of its subtleties. It offers rich, complex cherry and currant flavors,
and the oak influence brings mocha and toast notes. The
tannins and acids shape the balanced mouthfeel. It can
be consumed now, but it should develop additional nuances over the next eight years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $57
Bien Nacido 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Ma
ria Valley). As this is currently quite heavy in
blackberry and blueberry jam, cola, orange zest and
oaky flavors, it needs more time to knit together. The integrity of the acid-tannin structure should help the wine
develop for at least the next six years. If you choose to
open it before then, decant it for a couple of hours. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $57
Solomon Hills 2010 Chardonnay (San
ta Maria Valley). Racy, clean and seemingly
bone dry, this wine is elegant and almost shy in its approach. Food friendly and Chablis-like, it has plenty of
citrus, cream, mineral and toast subtleties. The fruit
was sourced from a vineyard located in the westernmost
part of the valley, and hence one of the coolest. Drink
now–2018. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $43
Watermill 2011 Viognier (Columbia Val
ley). From the beguiling aromatics to the thrilling palate that’s saturated with flavors of citrus flesh and
rind, tangerine and green apple, this Viognier offers superb focus. The length and detail are noteworthy, but
the taste is simply delicious. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
Caves Velhas 2009 Alma Grande Reser
va Touriga Nacional (Douro). Full and ripe,
this wine’s dark plum fruit is lined with toast from the
nine months it spent in new wood. It has a smooth, polished texture, and the finish bears sweet tannins and a
touch of eucalyptus. Age this for 2–3 years. Prestige
Wine Group. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
92
92
Brancaia 2009 Riserva (Chianti Clas
sico). Brancaia definitely makes the short list
of Tuscany’s most admired wine estates. This riserva is
tightly packed with delicate aromas ranging from berry fruit to cigar box to blue flower. The whole ensemble shows beautiful restraint and balance. E & J Gallo.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
Arista 2010 Perli Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Mendocino Ridge). Thick and foresty, this
Pinot Noir embodies the extremes of the Perli Vineyard. It bursts with dark blue and earthy red fruits that
are tempered by a savory undertone. This wine takes
time to reveal itself, so age it for 5–7 years, and pair
it with stews, risottos or seasoned braised lamb. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $52
abv: 14.5%
Yatir 2009 Forest (Judean
Hills). Forest, Yatir’s top-ofthe-line offering, is always a dense and
powerful wine that can age. Right now,
the wine smells young and a bit closed,
hiding some of its beauty and nuance
behind the upfront black plum, cassis
and cherry fruit aromas. Hints of fruitcake spice, bramble, cigar box and
leather occasionally flicker in the background, revealing what time has in
store for this dark beauty of a wine. Big
and rich right now, with a full structure
and gripping tannins. Drink 2016–
2022. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. Cellar Selection. —L.B.
Price: $85
91
Dierberg 2009 Estate Grown Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). Give this Pinot Noir a few
hours in the decanter before drinking it. Right out of
the bottle, it’s tight and brittle, but air brings out the
core notes of cherry, vanilla, red currant and cedar, and
makes it develop a drink-me-now appeal. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $44
91
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90
L. Tramier & Fils 2010 Collection Premier
Cru (Pommard). Firm and powerful, this tannic wine has dense black-fruit flavors, with enough fruitiness to balance the structure. The finish shows a smoky
character, a bitter cherry flavor and bright acidity. Luxe
Vintages. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $63
Il Bruciato (Bolgheri). A blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, this shows savory spice,
smoked meat and tobacco notes, followed by black
berry, dark cherry and cola. The palate is fresh and
clean, but it has enough heft to be paired with grilled
meat. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
91
Piccini 2008 Sasso al Poggio (Toscana).
This blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot shows impressive intensity and carefully measured oak tones that add nuances of clove and
nutmeg. At the base are notes of red fruit, cherry and
blackberry, plus dried tones of prune and cassis. Aveniù
Brands, Inc. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
Wallis Family Estate 2010 Little Sister
Proprietary Red Wine (Diamond Moun
tain). Forward and delicious, this offers waves of blackberries, cherries, currants, anise and cedar that are
wrapped in firm yet supple tannins. Drink now–2016.
—S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $45
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Canoe Ridge
Estate Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). Made
in fairly modest quantities, this Merlot bears dark fruit
that shows a pleasing, dusty quality. The blend includes
11% Cabernet Sauvignon, which keeps it in the Bordeaux-style camp. Firm and concentrated, it finishes
with a tasty mix of cocoa, coffee grounds and Asian spices.
Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Artist Series
Meritage Red Wine (Columbia Valley).
Five of the Bordeaux grapes were used in this wine, and
two-thirds of the blend is Cabernet Sauvignon. Most of
the grapes came from the excellent Canoe Ridge Estate
Vineyard, and the rest were sourced from Cold Creek
Vineyard. Dark, saturated flavors of black cherry and
cassis are balanced against ripe, firm tannins. It’s full
bodied and flavorful, and it displays plenty of power.
Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
90
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Ethos Re
serve Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia
Valley). The 2009 vintage seems to have pushed the
alcohol up a notch in many of the Ste. Michelle reds
yielding dense, fruit-driven wines that are on the verge
of being jammy. This hefty bottling delivers tons of
flavor: The cassis note comes saturated with barrelderived accents of coffee and smoke. —P.G.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $38
90
Donati 2010 Ezio Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paicines). A classy Cabernet, this wine shows
the potential of this emerging San Benito County appellation. It’s dry and smooth, with firm but supple tannins
that provide grip to the blackberry, cherry and black
currant flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $40
90
Geyser Peak 2009 Block Collection Walk
ing Tree Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander
Valley). This shows classic Cabernet Sauvignon character, and there’s even a Bordeaux-like earthiness that
grounds the cherry, currant and cedar flavors. Made
from fruit grown in the winery’s Alexander Valley vineyard, this is ideal for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
WineMag.com | 7
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Grgić Vina 2008 Plavac Mali (Dingač).
This is one unabashedly bold, brawny wine
that’s full of rich red fruit and milk chocolate. Bright
herbal and floral tones add an unusual freshness to
this Croatian Plavac Mali. Intense, penetrating tannins
frame the long, mocha-flavored finish. Grgich Hills Estate. —A.I.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $38
Jules Taylor 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). A blend of fruit drawn from the Awatere and Brancott subregions, this is a lively, fresh example of Marlborough Pinot Noir. Judiciously applied
notes of vanilla and cinnamon accent flavors of cherry
and herb that finish long, while the medium- to fullbodied wine’s tannins are ripe and impart a creamy texture. Drink now and over the next couple of years. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
Mazzei 2010 Belguardo Serrata (Marem
ma Toscana). Hats off to the Mazzei brothers
for crafting this rich, pleasurable wine that mirrors the
sunny warmth and softness of the region. The unusual blend is Sangiovese and Alicante, and it’s redolent of
lively red cherries, tobacco and chocolate fudge. Palm
Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
Poggio Verrano 2009 Poggio Verrano 3
(Toscana). A cheerful blend of Alicante, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in equal measures, this is
partially aged in oak to give the wine a zesty touch of
spice behind the notes of cherry, blackberry and plum.
The palate is soft, with mild structure, and it finishes
chewy and fruity. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Editors’ Choice.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
90
Smith-Madrone 2010 Estate Bottled
Chardonnay (Spring Mountain). This
Chardonnay has plenty of ripe pineapple, pear and
tropical fruit flavors. Having aged in 100% new French
oak barrels, it offers rich notes of vanilla and buttered
toast. Like all of Smith-Madrone’s wines, this has great
acidity and minerality, and even some tannins. Give this
some time, and see how it is after 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30
90
Villa Maria 2010 Cellar Selection Pinot
Noir (Marlborough). Villa Maria’s upper-level Pinot Noirs have always been big and bold, but with
this release the wines seem to have taken a turn toward
more finesse and elegance. The 2010 Cellar Selection
features a plushly textured palate, refined aromas and
flavors of cherries, earth and cedar, and a long, softly
dusty finish. Drink now–2018. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
90
90
MacRostie 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast). This is clean and brisk in lemony acidity, and it offers concentrated, complex flavors of honeyed pineapples, limes, oranges and mangoes. It’s dry
and finessed. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
Recanati 2010 Reserve Wild Carignan
(Judean Hills). With only 2,940 bottles produced, this is a limited-edition wine that’s worth the
hunt. Vanilla and oaky spice aromas immediately waft
from the glass, with the core of dark berries and fleshy
plum fruit following shortly after. Heavy and bold on
the palate, the firm structure complements the concentrated blackberry and cherry flavors. Nuances of cocoa
powder and tea leaves linger on the close. Kosher. Palm
Bay International. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $56
90
Yatir 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ju
dean Hills). This Cabernet-based wine—with
splashes of Malbec and Cabernet Franc—comes off
assertively oaky at first, but as the earthy, black fruit aromas unfold, it works its way into a better balance. Medium
weight with moderate tannins, the lush mouthfeel is
complemented by flavors of ripe berry-pie filling but
then countered by hints of green pepper and ash on
the close. Drink 2014–2018. Royal Wine Corporation.
—L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
spirits
89
Villa Maria 2010 Private Bin Pinot Noir
(Marlborough). Well priced for the quality,
Villa Maria’s entry-level Pinot Noir delivers moderately
assertive notes of dried leaves, black cherries, cola and
oaky spices. It’s concentrated and gently mouth-filling,
with a silky finish. Drink it now and over the next two
years. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice.
—J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
87
Boneshaker 2010 Zinfandel (Lodi). A new
wine from Hahn Family, Boneshaker is appropriately named: It’s a big-boned, hearty swath of velvety
milk chocolate and jammy fruit flavors. With just the
right amount of Zinfandel spice and oak influence, it
will please a barbecue-loving crowd. —V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $25
90
Edinburgh Gin (Scotland; Frederick Wild
man & Sons, New York, NY). One of the
rising number of Scottish-made gins, this small-batch
spirit has a good dose of piny juniper aroma and flavor, balanced by citrus peel and surprising flower notes,
plus ginger and coriander accents on the finish. A good
choice for martinis, with a lemon twist, please.
abv: 43%
Price: $35
spirits
88
Fess Parker 2011 Riesling (Santa Barba
ra County). While this wine is clean and vibrant, it tastes off dry. With its honeyed finish and flavors of peach, nectarine and apricot jam, this is one of
the most pleasant California Rieslings on the market.
It’s easy to drink with ham, sausage and slightly sweet
Asian fare. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $14
88
Urlar 2010 Pinot Noir (Wairarapa). There
aren’t many biodynamically grown Pinot Noirs
available for such a modest tariff, so this effort, made
by the former assistant winemaker at Escarpment, is
notable. It features taut, crisp black-cherry fruit along
with bits of leather and earth. Drink now and over the
next few years, but expect future vintages to show more
complexity and longevity as the young vines mature. Atlas Imports. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
94
Downslope Distilling Ould
Tom Citrus Flavored Gin
(USA; Downslope Distilling, Cen
tennial, CO). Cocktail history buffs will
want to get their hands on this bottle, stat.
Made in the lightly sweetened Old Tom
style, this golden gin lends itself to classic
Martinez or Tom Collins cocktails. Barrel
aged for three months, this soft, buttery
gin features honey and pear flavors, sprinkled with brown sugar, cinnamon bark
and honey notes. It’s even mellow enough
to sip neat.
abv: 40%
Price: $35
92
No. 3 London Dry Gin (Hol
land; Anchor Distilling Com
pany, San Francisco, CA). Fresh and
aromatic, this traditional London dry style
gin offers juniper, coriander, grapefruit
peel and anise notes. It’s versatile and well
suited for making gin and tonics. It comes
in a distinctive squared-off bottle with a
metal key that’s embedded in the dark
green glass.
abv: 46%
Price: $40
90
Uncle Val’s Botanical Gin (USA; 35 Maple
Street, Sonoma, CA). Sweet-tasting and citrusy, this has a light herbal aroma. It shows distinct cucumber and lavender notes on the palate, and it should
lend itself to spring and summer cocktails. Keep an eye
out for exciting savory and spicy variations of Uncle Val’s
that may be coming to market soon.
abv: 45%
Price: $40
beer
92
New Glarus Moon Man No Coast Pale Ale
(American Pale Ale; New Glarus Brewing
Company, WI). This is American pale ale done right,
with a balanced profile of malty richness and hoppy
astringency. Although New Glarus uses a blend of five
different hops, it is by no means over the top or overly
bitter, with bright hop-driven aromas of grapefruit and
fresh-cut grass followed by flavors of orange oil and
herbs on the palate. Medium bodied yet dry, with a
slightly nutty character lingering on the finish. The playful “No Coast” name suggests this is a selection to be
enjoyed by west-coasters, east-coasters and everyone inbetween. Best Buy.
abv: 5%
Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack
WineMag.com | 9
best buys
92
Quinta do Casal Monteiro 2009 Forma
de Arte Reserva (Tejo). Touriga Nacional
and Cabernet Sauvignon merge seamlessly in this richly
structured but fruity wine. It is densely concentrated,
with a line of tannins cutting through the blackberry
fruit flavors. Firm, textured and likely to age well, this is
impressive. Iberian Wine Importers. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
90
Caves Velhas 2009 Cabeça de Toiro
Reserva
Touriga
Nacional-Castelão
(Tejo). This dark-colored blend of Touriga Nacional
and Castelão shows intense fruitiness and concentrated structure. A full-bodied and black-fruit-driven wine,
this will age over the next few years, and the tannins will
round out to add more richness. Prestige Wine Group.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
best buys
best buys
89
87
89
86
Geyser Peak 2012 Pinot Grigio (Califor
nia). Dry, crisp and clean, this has rich flavors
of citrus, honeydew, green apple and vanilla, brightened
with keen acidity. This should be relatively easy to find.
Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
Geyser Peak 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Alexander Valley). Dry and smoothly tannic, this wine is packed with complex blackberry-pie,
currant, anise, herb and cedar flavors. This is nearly as
good as the winery’s more costly Walking Tree Vineyard
Block Collection Cabernet, but it’s just a little less concentrated. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
Geyser Peak 2011 Chardonnay (So
noma County). This tastes like buttered toast,
topped with orange marmalade and vanilla. The crisp
acidity makes it feel bright and clean. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
Avalon 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali
fornia). This has rich flavors of black currants, licorice and sandalwood, and it finishes dry and
spicy. This should be relatively easy to find thanks to its
50,000-case production. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $10
86
89
90
Geyser Peak 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Cal
ifornia). This tastes bone dry, and it offers acidity that’s so clean and racy, it makes your mouth feel like
it’s shining. The flavors of limes, lemons, hay, white pepper and vanilla are delightful. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
Quinta do Casal Monteiro 2009 Estate
Bottled Vinho Tinto (Tejo). This is an elegant wine, with balanced fruit and tannins that make
for a soft texture. It is rich and laced with fresh, raspberry-like acidity. It can age for another year, but it is
also ready to drink. Iberian Wine Importers. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
Four Vines 2011 Naked Unoaked Char
donnay (Santa Barbara County). This
Chardonnay is rich and balanced, with brisk acidity and
deep, long flavors of limes, tangerines and Meyer lemons. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $10
best buys
The palate offers light tannins and red-fruit-skin flavors,
ending clean and crisp. Kosher. Palm Bay International.
—L.B.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
other red wines
90
Recanati 2010 Reserve Wild Carignan
(Judean Hills). For full review see page 8.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $56
Purple Cowboy 2010 Trail Boss Cabernet
Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This has sweettasting flavors of blueberry jam, milk chocolate and
raspberry-cinnamon granola, wrapped into smooth, soft
tannins. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
86
84
Bota Box 2011 Merlot (California). This
fresh, spicy Merlot is easy to drink, and it deals
jammy berry, cola and fruit punch flavors. It’s a great
wine to serve at parties. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $21/3 L
88
Golan Heights Winery 2008 Yarden Pinot
Noir (Galilee). The aromatics are light and
dainty, with soft notes of raspberry, red cherry, forest
floor and cocoa powder. Similar flavors develop on the
bright palate, ending on a fleeting finish. Kosher. Yarden
Wines, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $29
86
87
Segal’s 2009 Dovev Single Vineyard Ar
gaman (Galil). This bold red made from Argaman—a cross between Souzão and Carignan—offers
upfront notes of boysenberry and black plum, accented
by hints of bark and spiced chocolate. It’s inky and dark,
but with a good acidic cut that keeps the finish fresh and
the wine approachable now. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
Price: $38
abv: 13.5%
84
Twisted 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel (Califor
nia). The strong aroma and flavor of black pepper
suggests that this Zinfandel will pair well with peppered
steak. It has firm tannins that will chew through fat, and
the note of blackberry jam will meld nicely with the
sweet flavor of charred beef. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $8
Galil Mountain 2009 Yiron (Galilee). Spicy
aromas of licorice, menthol, vanilla sauce and
sweet wood frame the brambly-berry fruit center of
this Cabernet-Merlot blend. Berry-preserve flavors are
more pronounced on the palate, with its lush, round
mouthfeel, and assorted spice flavors on the finish.
Drink now–2015. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $26
Shiloh Winery 2009 Mor (Judean Hills).
There’s a forward hickory-maple smoke note to
this interesting blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30%
Merlot and 20% Barbera. Dark berries, vanilla bean and
toasted oak notes unfold on the nose and in the mouth,
with a touch of cigar tobacco spice that carries through
on the finish. Drink through 2016. Kosher. Royal Wine
abv: 13.9%
Price: $32
86
86
88
Galil Mountain 2010 Yiron Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Upper Galilee). Light and accessible
now, this single-vineyard Pinot offers delicate notes of
red currant and strawberry hull on the nose and in the
mouth. Soft, with low tannins and an easygoing structure. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
red blends
92
Carmel 2007 Limited Edition (Upper Gali
lee). This Bordeaux-style blend is made from
57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot, 5% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc, and promises
great longevity despite its already somewhat advanced
age. It’s dense and thick, with concentrated notes of cassis, blackberry, tanned leather, licorice root and peppery
spice. The medium tannins are fine, but with good grip
on the palate, leading into a long finish laced with hints
of heady herbs and black tea. Drink 2015–2020. Kosher.
Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $85
Alexander 2010 Sandro Cabernet-Merlot
(Galilee). This blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Syrah, 7% Petit Verdot, 9%
Mourvèdre and 4% Sauvignon Blanc is straightforward
yet lush, with assertive oak-infused notes of plum, black
raspberry and boysenberry. Spicy accents of vanilla bean
and sweet smoke lend a rich impression to the close.
Very drinkable now, with modest tannins and a plush
texture. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
Price: $24
abv: 13.5%
cabernet sauvignon
91
Alexander 2007 The Great Cabernet Sau
vignon (Galilee). This tight and concentrated
Cab shows power and intensity, with a lush, mouthfilling
texture and firm tannins. It’s brimming with black fruit
notes of plum, berry and cassis, laced with accents of
leather, cigar box, pepper and sweet spice. The finish is
long and complex; drink now–2018. Kosher. Royal Wine
abv: 14%
Price: $75
90
Shiloh Winery 2010 Secret Reserve Cab
ernet Sauvignon (Judean Hills). Fleshy
black plum and berry aromas open the bouquet of this
vibrant wine, and follow straight through to the juicy
palate. Hints of tobacco and sweet yet peppery spice
add nuance to the medium-weight mouth, while the
structured tannins keep the ripe fruit flavors grounded. Drink now–2016. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation.
—L.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $40
92
90
88
89
Yatir 2009 Forest (Judean Hills). For full
review see page 6.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $85
Binyamina 2009 The Chosen Diamond
(Galilee). Scents of mixed forest berries, red
plum, fresh thyme and bay laurel lead the bouquet
of this wine, and carry though to the juicy palate. Approachable and enjoyable now, with ripe fruit flavors
and a hint of chocolate that stays through the mediumlength finish. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot,
10% Syrah and 10% Petit Verdot. Mevushal. Kosher.
Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
Yatir 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Judean
Hills). For full review see page 8.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
Alexander 2009 The Great Cabernet Sau
vignon (Galilee). The herbal aromas are forward on the nose of this Cabernet-based wine, which
includes 7% Petit Verdot, 4% Mourvèdre and 3% Merlot. Gamy, rich red plum and cherry notes unfold shortly
after, while the hefty palate offers earthy flavors of cassis
and tobacco leaf. Sweet smoke and toast accents linger
on the long finish. The wine is young and powerful now;
try after 2015. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
WineMag.com | 11
89
Barkan 2009 Altitude +624 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Israel). A decadent thread of
mocha weaves through the red cherry and raspberry
backbone of this wine. Earth, tobacco and black-currant
leaf add depth of flavor to the palate, followed by a long,
evolving finish that unfolds layer upon layer of nuance
and spice. Balanced and quite approachable now; enjoy
through 2015. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $42
89
Barkan 2009 Altitude +720 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Galil). The +720 offers a bit
more concentrated black cherry, plum and blueberry
notes than the +624, with a gorgeous backdrop of tobacco, licorice root and tree bark. The mouthfeel is
fleshy and ripe, but with medium tannins that keep it
from feeling overly round. Hints of chicory and roasted espresso bean develop on the finish. Kosher. Royal
Wine Corporation. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $42
89
Flam 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Galilee). This wine starts off with an assertive aroma of brambly berry, followed shortly after by
touches of warm compote and sweet spice. The tannins
are structured but fine, lending support to the otherwise round palate brimming with fleshy dark-cherry
and black-plum flavors. 100 cases imported; enjoy now–
2017. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
88
Binyamina 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sau
vignon (Galilee). Cherry, red plum and soft
herbs lead the nose of this Cabernet, followed by glimmers of chocolate and light coffee. The palate is plush
and mouthfilling, but not flabby or overdone, with ripe
fruit flavors that linger on the clean finish. Mevushal.
Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
88
Carmel 2009 Kayoumi Single Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). The bouquet starts off with moderately intense scents of plum,
cherry and blackberry, with a cured-meat accent in the
background. Glimmers of black pepper and bark add
depth to the palate, while the medium-full mouthfeel
boasts moderate tannins followed by a clean finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
Price: $33
abv: 15%
88
Tulip Winery 2011 Just Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (Galilee). Brambly blackberry, plum
and cherry flesh aromas lead the bouquet of this concentrated wine, and follow straight through to the palate. Creamy and lush, a hint of mocha adds richness to
the otherwise fruit-driven finish. Kosher. Royal Wine
abv: 14%
Price: $30
86
Alexander 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (Galilee). This wine boasts aromas and
flavors of dried red fruits, fresh mint and cocoa powder.
Medium weight, with soft, dusty tannins and a medium-length finish. A young wine, but quite approachable
now. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
85
Recanati 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Gal
ilee). Earthy aromas of black-currant leaf and
crushed carnation dominate the profile of this wine,
with light black-fruit notes taking second place. Lean
and delicate, this wine is ready for drinking now; pair
it with wine-braised brisket. Kosher. Palm Bay International. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
85
Segal’s 2009 Dishon Single Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Galil). There’s a
woody, slightly green center to this wine that dominates the lean cherry and currant notes on the nose and
mouth. It’s direct and linear on the palate, with a redplum-skin-driven finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $38
merlot
89
Carmel 2009 Sha’al Single Vineyard Mer
lot (Galilee). This wine opens with ripe aromas of black plum and boysenberry fruit, accented by
hints of licorice root and menthol. The fruity core continues to shine on the smooth, round palate, alongside
accents of purple violet, black tea and oak-driven spice
that linger through the close. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
Price: $33
abv: 14.5%
88
Flam 2010 Reserve Merlot (Galilee). Solid
herbal notes of fresh thyme and bay leaf lead
the nose of this Merlot, but are supported by a core of
ripe dark fruit. Accents of vanilla bean and licorice root
add depth to the medium-full mouthfeel. The texture
is round, yet structured with fine tannins, while the finish boasts a decadent mocha touch. Kosher. Royal Wine
abv: 15%
Price: $65
87
Tulip Winery 2011 Just Merlot (Judean
Hills). This is an approachable and easy-pleasing Merlot, with notes of black plum, boysenberry, milk
chocolate and oak-driven spice. The mouthfeel is round
and creamy, but the finish is clean and loaded with
fleshy fruit flavors that linger nicely. Drink now–2015.
Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
86
Recanati 2011 Merlot (Galilee). Bright and
juicy, this wine offers upfront fruit aromas and
flavors of blueberry, black cherry and plum. Hints of
fudgy brownie and berry preserve add depth and decadence to the palate, and stay well into the mediumlength finish. Drink now. Kosher. Palm Bay International. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
syrah/shiraz
91
Binyamina 2009 The Chosen Ruby Syrah
(Galilee). With only 6,000 bottles produced,
this limited-production selection might be tricky to find,
but it’s well worth the effort. Layered and nuanced, ripe
fruit provides a perfect backdrop for accents of game,
spice and oak. The silky texture is complemented by
black cherry and plum-skin flavors, and the finish ends
on a black tea note that lingers. Drink now–2017. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
91
Carmel 2009 Kayoumi Single Vineyard
Shiraz (Galilee). This dark and attractive Shiraz shows excellent balance and a satiny texture. Notes
of brambly raspberry and cherry mingle with seductive
hints of sweet smoke, game and pepper. Hints of spicy
mocha and forest berry linger on the finish. Approachable now, but should hold well and develop additional
complexities through 2016. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $33
90
Golan Heights Winery 2009 Yarden Syrah
(Galilee). With 18 months spent in oak, the
wood influence is certainly apparent, but it’s balanced
by the deep black plum and cherry notes. The mouthfeel is lush but lifted, with dense black-fruit flavors on
the palate that persist through the close. Vanilla and
sweet smoke flavors lend a decadent feel to the finish.
Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.
Price: $25
abv: 15%
90
Recanati 2010 Reserve Syrah-Viognier
(Galilee). Although this wine is currently a bit
firm and closed, it has the stuffing for great evolution
and shows promise for a long future. Dark, ripe raspberry and strawberry fruit characters are laced with touches of Asian spice, reduced balsamic and wild game. The
medium-weight mouthfeel boasts chewy tannins that
persist long into the finish. Drink 2014–2018. Kosher.
Palm Bay International. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
89
Flam 2010 Reserve Syrah (Galilee). This
fruit-forward Syrah is brimming with aromas
and flavors of raspberry, boysenberry and blueberry,
all graced with a hint of vanilla cream. The mouthfeel
boasts a satiny texture, with fine tannins, and the flavors
evolve from fleshy fruit to spice and toasty oak. Drink
now–2016. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
87
Recanati 2011 Shiraz (Galilee). Bright,
jammy cherry, raspberry and blueberry aromas
lead the nose of this wine. Smooth and easy-drinking,
the palate offers rich berry compote flavors with hints
of black pepper and sweet spice. Drink now. Mevushal.
Kosher. Palm Bay International. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
85
Binyamina 2010 Reserve Shiraz (Gali
lee). Soft aromas of dark berries and plum
flesh lead off, while the palate offers a tight, skin-driven
cherry flavor. A slight astringency carries through on the
close, along with a hint of cinnamon. Drink now. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
dessert wine
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Binyamina 2010 Late Harvest Cluster Se
lect Reserve Gewürztraminer (Galilee).
This late-harvest dessert wine is sweet and unctuous,
with ripe aromas and flavors of peaches and nectarines
drizzled with honey and dusted with sweet baking spice.
The mouthfeel is thick and full, but lifted with enough
acidity to keep it from feeling cloying on the close. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B.
Price: $27/375 ml
abv: 9%
lebanon
white wines
89
Château Musar 2011 Musar Jeune White
(Bekaa Valley). There’s a hint of violet perfume that permeates this dry yet honeyed wine. The
palate is fruity, with abundant ripe cherry and grapefruit flavors, and layers of crushed chalk and stone lend
a minerally complexity that builds on the midpalate.
Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I.
Price: $22
abv: 13.5%
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Château Musar 2005 Gaston Hochar
White (Bekaa Valley). There are dark veins
of smoke and flint that highlight the rippling minerality
in this fascinating Lebanese white. It’s made in a deliberately oxididative style, and it offers a slight bakedapple flavor that slowly opens to reveal fresh citrus and
honeysuckle notes. It’s not for everyone, but it’s a fascinating wine to enjoy over a long meal. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $41
red wines
88
Château Musar 2004 Gaston Hochar Red
(Bekaa Valley). Enticing whiffs of spice, dried
herb and ripe, briary berries emerge from this rich,
structured wine. The fruit on the palate is lavish, almost
pulpy, but it’s framed by lush tannins and brisk acidity.
The finish is herbal and bracing. Broadbent Selections,
Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $51
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Château Musar 2010 Musar Jeune Red
(Bekaa Valley). Notes of ripe red berries and
plums permeate the nose and palate of this bold, concentrated blend of Cinsault, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a rich texture, and it offers a flurry of soft
tannins and hints of spice and graham cracker that linger on the finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
georgia
ering tannins and a richly textural mouthfeel. Terrell
Wines.Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
Price: $25
abv: 13%
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Antadze 2010 Kvevri Wine Mtsvane
(Kakheti). High-toned aromas of dried peach,
apple, spice and sandalwood in this qvevri-aged wine
give way to a rich, almost silky palate that bursts with
notes of yellow flowers and honey-tinged oolong tea.
Bright, citrusy acids and bracing, tea-like tannins extend
on the long finish. Terrell Wines. —A.I.
Price: $25
abv: 13%
90
Pheasant’s Tears 2009 Dry Unfiltered Am
ber Wine Rkatsiteli (Kakheti). Aromatic,
with notes of black tea leaves, sandalwood and incense,
this smoky Georgian amber wine boasts delicate orange
rind and blossom flavors, swathed in bristling, chestnutskin-like tannins. There’s a wonderful textural richness
attributable to the wine’s prolonged maceration in traditional Georgian qvevri. Terrell Wines. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
89
Estate Biblia Chora 2011 White (Pan
geon). This white has a curvy character, with
heady fruit and citrus aromas and an interplay of rich
exotic fruit flavors and bright acidity. Balanced and original, this exhibits the fruit and mineral combination that
Greek whites do so well. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
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Pavlidis 2011 Thema (Drama). An alluring
nose of citrus, pineapple and peach notes leads
this elegant white. Fresh, flavorful and exotic, the wine
offers citrus and lush fruit flavors, with a spin of acid for
balance. This is very good on its own, but it will also pair
well with poultry, grilled seafood or spicy dishes. Athenee Importers. —S.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $21
88
Gentilini 2010 Robola (Cephalonia). This
wine starts with a refined nose of lemon, peach
and flower notes. The palate is lively and balanced, and
it offers ripe citrus flavors, buoyed by spice and flint
notes. An expressive medium-bodied white with style.
Athenee Importers. —S.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
Dergi 2007 Qvevri Dry Unfiltered White
Wine Rkatsiteli (Kakheti). Quite tawny in
color, this traditional Georgian qvevri wine has a hightoned apple aroma that’s peppered with carmelized sugar and dried tea leaf hints. Dry and crisp, with penetrating dried-apple and orange rind flavors, it finishes long,
with its powerful black-tea tannins reverberating on the
palate. Terrell Wines. —A.I.
abv: 11.7%
Price: $18
Skouras 2010 Cuvée Larsinos Viognier
(Peloponnese). Apricot, citrus and honey
notes lead this impressive Viognier from Greece. On
the palate, it shows good balance of white fruit, flower
and pineapple notes. An elegant and unique selection.
Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $21
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Our Wine 2010 Vineyard Akhoebi
Rkatsiteli (Kakheti). Intensely smoky and
earthy on the nose and palate, this Georgian qvevriaged wine is a showcase of minerality and textural complexity. It’s a savory wine with bristling tannins, and it
bears just a hint of citrus that keeps the palate fresh and
bright. Terrell Wines. —A.I.
Price: $25
abv: 12.7%
Iago’s Wine 2010 Chardakhi White Dry
With Skin Contact Unfiltered Chinuri
(Georgia). Whiffs of smoke and sea breeze entice on
the nose of this amber-hued Georgian wine, which was
aged in traditional clay vessels. Earthy on the palate,
with hints of orange rind, mushroom and roasted chestnut, it’s shockingly tannic for wine made from white
grapes—thanks to being exposed to its grape skins during fermentation and maturation. A fascinating accompaniment to almost any kind of cuisine. Terrell Wines.
—A.I.
Price: $18
abv: 12%
white wines
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white wines
Alaverdi Monastery Cellar 2010 Qvevri
Traditional Kakhuri Dry Unfiltered Am
ber Wine Rkatsiteli (Kakheti). From it’s musky, perfumed to nose to it’s intensely honeyed, dried-peachand apricot-flavored palate, everything about this wine
is mysterious and ethereal. Crafted by monks in an
ancient Georgian monastery, this amber-hued wine is
made from white grapes that were fermented and aged
in clay vessels (qvevri) and that underwent extended skin contact, which resulted in a wine with puck-
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Estate Biblia Chora 2010 Ovilos (Pan
geon). Orange blossom, apricot and honey
notes give the bouquet an opulent edge. On the palate, it’s a wave of lush peach, apricot and honey flavors,
finished with a delicate spice note. This will pair with
everything from poultry to ethnic cuisine to fruit salad.
Cava Spiliadis. —S.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
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Domaine Gerovassiliou 2011 White (Epa
nomi). Floral, fresh and delicate fruit aromas
are followed by rich citrus, white fruit and flower flavors. This is full bodied yet elegant, with a feminine
edge. Pair it with Indian or Thai dishes. Cava Spiliadis.
—S.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
Estate Constantin Gofas 2011 Mythic
River Sauvignon-Roditis (Corinth). A nose
of peach, spice and citrus notes leads this light and lively
white made from Roditis and Sauvignon Blanc. Lean
but likeable, it offers a lemon overtone on the palate
and a fresh, spicy finish. Pair it with grilled seafood,
Thai dishes or cold chicken salads. Testa Wines Of The
World. —S.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Domaine Gerovassiliou 2010 Viognier
(Epanomi). Aromas of apricot, tropical fruit
and spice lead this refreshing and expressive white.
On the palate, it tastes floral, with a thread of honeyed
sweetness, but the acidity gives it bounce. Fun and
friendly. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $39
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Gentilini 2010 Cellar Selection Robola
(Cephalonia). Notes of orange and lemon
preserves on the nose lead into flavors of orange, lemon and vanilla on the palate. It finishes with a touch of
spice. Athenee Importers. —S.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Argyros 2011 Estate Argyros Aidani (Cy
clades). Lemon, mineral and spice notes charWineMag.com | 13
acterize this indigenous white from Greece. Dry and
clean, it will pair well with grilled fish or octopus. Athenee Importers. —S.K.
abv: 12.2%
Price: $27
rosés
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Lyrarakis 2011 Idyll Rosé (Crete). The
unique nose on this wine—which is comprised
of cherry, chocolate and warm spice aromas—is followed on the palate by a delicate wave of cherry, raspberry and vanilla. It’s balanced, but has a sweet touch.
Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
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Oenogenesis 2011 Enoeno Dry Rosé
(Drama). Aromatic and expressive, this wine
starts with aromas of wildflower and peach, and it leads
into balanced flavors of white fruit, orange peel and
fresh berry. A pretty selection, with enough body to
span the seasons. Eklektikon, LLC. —S.K.
Price: $23
abv: 12%
86
Wine Art Estate 2011 Techni Alipiaç Dry
Rosé (Drama). Strawberry and raspberry
notes come with a tart edge in this easygoing rosé. On
the palate, strawberry, violet and spice notes are balanced and fresh. A good everyday choice that will pair
well with fruit salad, chicken salad and cold cuts. Distinctive Imports LLC. —S.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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Ktima Tselepos 2011 Driopi Agiorgitiko
Rosé (Peloponnese). Flavors of rose petal,
cherry and a touch of spice characterize this rosé. A
backbone of lively spice carries the sweet-tasting cherry flavors on the palate. Pair this with fruit salads or
creamy cheeses. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
84
Skouras 2011 Zoë Rosé (Peloponnese).
Sweet and tart notes—think maraschino cherry
and citrus—start this opulent sip. Sweet-tasting cherry
and strawberry flavors follow. Not overly complex, but a
fun summer wine. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
red wines
89
Lyrarakis 2008 Symbolo Grand Cuvée
(Crete). Plum and red berry aromas start this
integrated red blend, which is released only in the best
years. On the palate, plum, warm spice and oak tones
create a rich but clean character. The wine is structured
and has room to age. Stellar Importing Company, LLC.
—S.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
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Thymiopoulos Vineyards 2008 Uranos
Xinomavro (Naoussa). Violet, black fruit
and cedar notes lead this poised red. The palate is plush,
but finishes clean and dry. Subtle, clean and focused, it’s
a good wine to savor alone or with steak. Athenee Importers. —S.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
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Chatzivariti 2010 Eurynome Red Dry
Wine Xinomavro-Negoska (Goumenis
sa). This wine begins with rustic charm, and it features
notes of olive, cigar box and cedar, followed by equally earthy flavors of spicebox, tomato, vanilla and pepper. The sturdy tannins and texture are softened by a
wave of red fruit. Pair this with grilled lamb or burgers.
Eklektikon, LLC. —S.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $27
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Estate Biblia Chora 2008 Red (Pangeon).
Fresh and versatile, this Cabernet-Merlot blend
offers a balanced interplay of spice, pepper and red fruit
notes. The cherry, raspberry, leather and cedar flavors
will pair well with tomato-based dishes, grilled meats
and stews. Cava Spiliadis. —S.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
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Vaeni 2008 Emeros Dry Red Xinomavro
(Naoussa). Clove, cinnamon and raspberry
aromas are followed by bright red-fruit and spice flavors
on the palate. A dancing minerality keeps the wine’s
spice and tannins in check. A good everyday red for
burgers and pizza. Stellar Importing Company, LLC.
Best Buy. —S.K.
Price: $11
abv: 12.3%
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Wine Art Estate 2008 Techni Alipiaç Dry
Red (Drama). Aromas of cherry, spiced meat
and plum start off this masculine red. Flavors of smoke,
spice and red fruit are balanced and easy to embrace,
and the wine offers ageable structure to boot. This is
an impressive selection that will pair well with hearty
dishes, but it will also be enjoyable on its own. Distinctive Imports LLC. —S.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
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Boutari 2007 Grand Reserve Xinomavro
(Naoussa). Toasted nut, rhubarb, pepper and
spice box aromas abound on the nose of this plucky red.
Black cherry, spice and pepper flavors follow. Clean,
spicy and food friendly, this selection is ageable and assertive. Terlato Wines International. —S.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $27
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Kir-Yianni 2008 Ramnista Xinomavro
(Naoussa). Rustic but rich, this Xinomavro
starts with aromas of black fruit, allspice and cedar.
Hearty, lively flavors of smoke, black cherry, leather and
spice follow. Assertive but balanced, this can pair with
grilled meats, stews or burgers. VOS Selections. —S.K.
Price: $25
abv: 14%
85
Thymiopoulos Vineyards 2010 Young
Vines Xinomavro (Naoussa). Smoked sausage, mushroom and clove aromas lead this big, spicy
red. Chewy on the palate, it offers flavors of smoke, pepper and leathery spice. Pair it with grilled meats, spiced
stews or robust cheeses. Athenee Importers. —S.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
85
Vaeni 2004 Naoussa Grande Reserve Xi
nomavro (Naoussa). Violet, cigar box and
smoke mark the nose of this distinctive Xinomavro. On
the plate, spice, sweet cedar and clove give it a rustic but
refined feel. Pair with aged cheeses or meat dishes for
extra appeal. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
84
Alpha Estate 2008 Syrah-Xinomavro (Flo
rina). This Syrah-Xinomavro blend offers notes
of clove and blueberry on the nose, followed by flavors
of smoked meat, black fruit and cedar on the palate. It
feels big, and it finishes with a clean, spirited flourish.
Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
84
Vaeni 2006 Aamackhnoc Xinomavro
(Naoussa). This red is a hunting lodge in a
glass, with aromas of leather, game, cigar and cedar on
the nose, followed by flavors of blueberry, cigar box and
vanilla on the palate. Pair this with earthy fare, such as
steak, grilled duck or dried sausage. Stellar Importing
Company, LLC. —S.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
84
Vaeni 2007 Naoussa Xinomavro (Naous
sa). Mint, cedar and clove aromas are followed
by pepper, clove and black fruit flavors. It’s not overly
complex, but it offers distinctive indigenous character,
and it will pair nicely with grilled meat. Stellar Importing Company, LLC. —S.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
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A. Parparoussis 2005 Taos Dry Red Wine
(Achaia). Leather, spice, red fruit and smoke
notes characterize this red blend. Dry and fresh, it will
pair nicely with dried meats or tomato-based dishes.
Cava Spiliadis. —S.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $37
tuscan white wines
bolgheri
90
Donna Olimpia 1898 2010 White (Bol
gheri). Honey, pear, peach and mineral notes
open the bouquet of this fragrant blend of Vermentino,
Viognier and Petit Manseng. The palate is smooth, crisp
and silky in texture. Majestic Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
89
Collemassari 2011 Grattamacco Vermen
tino (Bolgheri). This oak-aged Vermentino is
pristine and fresh in style, and the palate offers some
heft. Nuances of exotic fruit, lemon zest, apricot and
almond cream appear on the finish. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
88
Batzella 2007 Mezzodì (Bolgheri). Viognier and Vermentino spend some time in both
stainless steel and oak, which gives this blend fresh aromas and a creamy palate. Stone fruit, apricot, honey
and white flower notes are accompanied by mildly spicy
overtones. Total Wine & More. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $23
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Giorgio Meletti Cavallari 2011 White
(Bolgheri). Here’s a white wine from coastal
Tuscany that makes you dream of enjoying a heaping
plate of spaghetti con vongole by the seaside. This blend
of Vermentino and Viognier is bright and fresh, and it
offers lingering tones of citrus and sweet vanilla. Specialty Wine Co. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Casa di Terra 2011 Vermentino (Bolgh
eri). This Vermentino, which is blended with a
touch of Sauvignon Blanc, shows a saturated golden color (a small percentage of the wine is aged in barrique).
It has broad aromas of apricot, tangerine and almond
paste. A touch of zesty acidity marks the finish. Superior
Wines LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
87
Michele Satta 2011 Costa di Giulia (Bol
gheri). Crisp and bright, this Vermentino and
Sauvignon blend opens with loads of bright citrus and
mineral tones. The finish is easy, fresh and lean. Banville
& Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
87
Serni Fulvio Luigi 2011 Radius Vermen
tino (Bolgheri). This light Vermentino opens
with a pale straw color, and it has lively aromas of citrus,
kiwi, cut grass and mineral. A dose of refreshing acidity
marks the finish. Vico’s Imports. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 13%
86
Ceralti 2011 Vermentino (Bolgheri). This
Vermentino opens with distinct tones of almond
skin and stone fruit. The mouthfeel is lean and clean,
with a compact feel and medium intensity. HB Wine
Merchants. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
86
Cipriana 2011 Paguro (Bolgheri). Paguro
shows subtle accents of citrus, crushed stone
and grapefruit. The style is simple, clean and fresh. Royalty Imports LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
maremma toscana
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Terre di Talamo 2010 Vento Forte Ver
mentino (Maremma Toscana). Late harvest fruit and 12 months of oak aging give this wine a
deep, full and sophisticated personality. It exudes notes
of apricot, lemon curd, vanilla and white almond paste.
Michelangelo Imports. —M.L.
Price: $38
abv: 14.5%
88
Carpineto 2011 Valcolomba Vermenti
no (Maremma Toscana). Thanks to careful
clonal selection, this bright Vermentino shows a pristine
quality. It is redolent of pear, peach and honey, and it
shows a touch of dried herb on the finish. Opici Wines.
Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
88
Rocca di Montemassi 2011 Calasole Ver
mentino (Maremma Toscana). This crisp
and snappy wine shows varietal characteristics of stone
fruit, cut grass and pear, backed by a full and generous
mouthfeel that speaks of the warm Tuscan sun. Pair this
with assorted Chinese dim sum. Zonin USA. Editors’
Choice. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Podere San Cristoforo 2010 Luminoso
(Maremma Toscana). Approachable and
fresh, this is a wine to pair with seafood salad or grilled
tuna. It offers pretty fragrances of stone fruit, citrus and
honey. Peter Warren Selections & Planet Wine. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
Rocca di Montemassi 2011 Astraio Viog
nier (Maremma Toscana). This pretty Viognier shows bright tones of honey, stone fruit, melon and
peach. There’s a subtle creaminess that’s derived from
the fruit itself, and it leaves a lasting floral impression
on the senses. Zonin USA. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
87
Tenuta La Badiola 2011 Acquadoro Viog
nier (Maremma Toscana). The warm climate of central Italy helps to develop this Viognier’s
ripe aromas of melon, honey and stone fruit. A glycerinderived viscosity marks the finish. Terra Moretti Trading. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
Castello di Ama 2010 Al Poggio (Tos
cana). This 80-20 blend of Chardonnay and
Pinot Grigio shows bright stone fruit and citrus aromas,
followed by touches of tangy spice and vanilla cream.
The wine carries itself smoothly over the palate. The
Sorting Table. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
Barone Ricasoli 2011 Torricella (Tos
cana). Torricella is an 80-20 blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc that sees some oak aging
for extra intensity and smoothness. Peach, citrus and exotic fruit drive the soft, creamy finish. Dreyfus, Ashby
& Co. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $29
88
Ceralti 2011 Lunarae (Toscana). This
blend of Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer
opens with pungent aromas of peppermint, dried apricot and caramel candy. Loads of honey and yellow fruit
flavors follow on the palate, backed by a rich, almost
chewy, consistency. HB Wine Merchants. —M.L.
Price: $30
abv: 14.5%
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Tenuta La Badiola 2011 Acquagiusta Ver
mentino (Maremma Toscana). Glossy and
bright in appearance, this Vermentino is backed by
notes of stone fruit, honey and dried herb. On the palate, it feels crisp, streamlined and zesty. Terra Moretti
Trading. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Terre di Talamo 2011 Vento Teso Viog
nier (Maremma Toscana). The production
of Viognier in coastal Tuscany is on the rise. This expression delivers mild aromatic intensity, with layers of
stone fruit, honey and cantaloupe. Michelangelo Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
toscana
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Le Macchiole 2010 Paleo (Toscana). Intense, generous aromas of white flower, passion
fruit, citrus blossom and crushed stone comprise the
nose. This blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay
offers impressive intensity and a long, spicy finish. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75
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Michele Satta 2010 Giovin Re Viognier
(Toscana). A sophisticated, oak-aged Viognier, this delivers smooth aromas of apricot, candied fruit,
white peppercorn and almond skin. The palate is equally generous, dense and rich. Banville & Jones Wine
Merchants. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $50
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Tua Rita 2011 Lodano (Toscana). This
oak-aged blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer
and Chardonnay shows enormous intensity and personality, and it offers beaming aromas of sun-ripened
peach, apricot, pear and exotic fruit. Smooth sensations
of honey and vanilla cream drive the long, generous finish. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
Fattoria di Valiano 2011 Donna di Valiano
Chardonnay (Toscana). Plump and generous, this Chardonnay shows a ripe peach aroma, with
honey and vanilla cream notes. The warmth and fullness
of this wine recall the Tuscan sun. Aveniù Brands, Inc.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
Fattoria Fibbiano 2011 Fonte delle Donne
(Toscana). This white wine (Colombana and
Vermentino grapes in equal measures) shows bright
aromas of stone fruits, backed by a touch of drying mineral. The palate is fresh and clean, with good density.
Atlanta Improvement Co. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
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Gualdo del Re 2011 Valentina Vermenti
no (Toscana). This rich and generous expression of Vermentino shows aromas of honey, dried hay,
stone fruit and white almond. The dense, creamy palate
would stand up to spicy Thai coconut curry. Montcalm
Wine Importers. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
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Mazzei 2011 Tenuta Belguardo Vermen
tino (Toscana). The Mazzei brothers produce
a Vermentino of depth, brightness and persistency. It
delivers long-lasting flavors of citrus, peach and orange
skin. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $17
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Casa di Terra 2011 Terre di Lavinia Ver
mentino (Toscana). Lean and bright, this
easygoing Vermentino would pair well with fried calamari or vegetable tempura. The palate shows fullness
and a fragrant lemon-zest flavor. Superior Wines LLC.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Donna Olimpia 1898 2011 Obizzo Ver
mentino (Toscana). Bright and tangy, this
wine delivers a full bouquet of citrus and white flower
aromas. Touches of white pepper and crushed mineral
WineMag.com | 15
appear on the finish, followed by bright acidity. Majestic
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
87
Gualdo del Re 2011 Eliseo Pinot Bianco
(Toscana). There aren’t many monovarietal
expressions of Pinot Bianco from Tuscany. This wine
delivers bold fruit tones of apricot and pear, followed
by a creamy exotic-fruit flavor on the finish. Montcalm
Wine Importers. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
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Liverano 2010 L’Anima (Toscana).
L’Anima, which is Italian for “the soul,” is a
blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Gewürztraminer, and it shows pretty aromas of white flower, honey
and exotic fruit. The density and creaminess of the
mouthfeel recall the wine’s warm-climate Tuscan roots.
Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
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Mocali 2011 Fossetti (Toscana). This Tuscan blend of Sauvignon, Moscato and Trebbiano
offers fragrant aromas of white flower and honeysuckle,
backed by notes of stone fruit and citrus. The mouthfeel
is lean, easy and fresh. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
Price: $16
abv: NA
87
Poggio al Tesoro 2011 Solosole Vermen
tino (Toscana). Honey, peach and pear aromas open the nose on this fresh Vermentino. A touch
of vanilla cream gives the finish a full, generous feel.
Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Poggiotondo 2011 Vermentino (Tos
cana). A pure expression of Vermentino, this
offers aromas of citrus, peach, dried hay and Golden
Delicious apple. Pair this bright white with Thai dishes
or spicy Indian food. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
87
Tenuta Argentiera 2011 Poggio ai Ginepri
(Toscana). This refreshing blend of Viognier,
Vermentino and Sauvignon Blanc offers bright, intense
notes of peach, pear and lemon mousse, plus aromatic
highlights of honey and jasmine. David Vincent Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
86
Altadonna 2011 Vermentino (Toscana).
Fresh and easy, this bright Vermentino would
pair well with vegetable egg rolls or easy Spanish tapas.
The wine’s crisp acidity is followed by peach, citrus and
pear flavors. Opici Wines. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
86
Fornacelle 2011 Sémillon (Toscana).
Slightly closed at first, this Sémillon needs a
few minutes in the glass before the aromas become
charged. Exotic fruit and pineapple notes appear with
citrus and peach accents. The finish is simple and fresh.
Tradizione Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
85
Banfi 2011 Le Rime Pinot Grigio (Tos
cana). Le Rime is made as both a ChardonnayPinot Grigio blend and as a pure expression of Pinot
Grigio for the U.S. market. Easy and fresh, this wine has
touches of pear and citrus. Banfi Vintners. Best Buy.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
85
Buccia Nera 2011 Donna Patrizia (Tos
cana). This is a blend of Trebbiano, Malvasia
and Grechetto. The mildness of its fruity bouquet and
the leanness of its mouthfeel suggest that it should be
paired with tuna salads or steamed dumplings. Maximum Wine. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
85
Casa Sola 2011 Pergliamici (Toscana).
This expression of Trebbiano and Chardonnay is
made in a slim, easygoing style, and it offers pretty tones
of stone fruit, pear and honey. It’s a fine wine to serve at
a picnic. The House of Burgundy. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
other white wines
87
Cà del Vispo 2011 Massimo Daldin (Ver
naccia di San Gimignano). Seafood platters
loaded with steamed mussels and spicy crab cakes call
out for a fresh, vibrant Vernaccia just like this bottling.
Massimo Daldin offers touches of vanilla cream, yellow
fruits and nuts, which give it momentum and character.
Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
87
Collemassari 2011 Melacce Vermen
tino (Montecucco). Made from organically
farmed fruit, this bright Vermentino opens with pretty
aromas of peach, honey, pear and Golden Delicious apple. The mouthfeel is smooth and silky. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
87
Rampa di Fugnano 2011 Alata (Vernac
cia di San Gimignano). This bright Vernaccia layers pretty tones of citrus, pear and cut grass over a
lean texture and medium body. This is a good choice to
pair with seafood or light salads. Luxe Vintages. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
87
Tenuta del Buonamico 2011 Vermentino
(Montecarlo). This is the kind of food-friendly
wine to pair with grilled shrimp kebabs or fish tacos.
It presents clean aromas of citrus, pear and stone fruit,
backed by zesty acids on the finish. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
Price: $16
abv: 12.5%
86
Tenuta del Buonamico 2011 Bianco
(Montecarlo). Trebbiano, Sémillon, Roussanne, Sauvignon and Pinot Bianco form this unique
blend. It offers subtle tones of peach, pineapple and
honeysuckle. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
rosés
88
Tenuta Argentiera 2011 Poggio ai Gine
pri Rosato (Bolgheri). A blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon and Syrah, this wine offers intense aromas
of raspberry, cherry and almond paste. The mouthfeel’s
density would pair with baccalà or white meat. David
Vincent Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
87
Casa di Terra 2011 Allegra Rosato (Bol
gheri). This wine opens with aromas of forest
berry, sour cherry and white almond. The finish is tangy,
fruity and fresh, with bright acidity and crisp fruit. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
87
Castello di Ama 2011 Rosato (Toscana).
A blend of mostly Sangiovese, with a touch of
Merlot, this delivers a fresh flower tone and a tangy forest-berry flavor. It feels creamy, with medium density,
and it has crisp acidity that keeps the palate refreshed.
The Sorting Table. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
87
Donna Olimpia 1898 2011 Agoghè Ro
sato (Toscana). This wine opens with forest
fruit, chopped herb and fresh almond-blossom notes.
The finish feels full and silky. Majestic Imports. —M.L.
Price: $18
abv: 12.5%
87
Mazzei 2011 Tenuta Belguardo Rosa
to (Toscana). A 50-50 blend of Sangiovese
and Syrah, this bright rosato opens with a rose aroma,
backed by pink grapefruit and forest fruit notes. The
mouthfeel has a bright, lean quality that makes it a pleasure to drink. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $17
87
Poggio al Tesoro 2011 Cassiopea Rosato
(Bolgheri). This rosato has aromas of wild berry, citrus, almond flower and dried herb. Light and lean,
this would pair with barbecued shrimp or fish kebab.
Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
86
Fattoria Lavacchio 2011 Albeggio Rosa
to (Toscana). Albeggio is a Syrah-based rosato
that offers accents of cranberry, cassis and blueberry,
backed by fresh acidity and medium density. It would
pair well with roasted eggplant in yogurt sauce. Best
Value Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
86
Giorgio Meletti Cavallari 2011 Rosato
(Bolgheri). Fresh, floral and lively, this bright
wine offers tones of wild berry, pink grapefruit and crisp
green apple. There’s enough acidity to balance fried appetizers or cheese-topped pastas. Specialty Wine Co.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
86
L’Antica Fornace di Ridolfo 2011 Cantal
ici Petali di Rosé (Toscana). This Sangiovese-based rosato is vinified solely in stainless steel in
order to preserve the freshness of its forest berry and
cranberry flavors. A touch of bitter almond adds brightness to the finish. Roanoke Valley Wine Company.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
86
Marchesi Ginori Lisci 2011 Bacio Rosato
(Montescudaio). Lively aromas of blueberry,
raspberry and forest fruit mark this rosato. A touch of
bitter almond skin appears on the crisp finish. Emilia
Imports. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
olate. The mouthfeel is smooth, rich and opulent. Total
Beverage Solution. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $29
bright and firm, with a polished, dusty mouthfeel. Communal Brands. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Caccia al Piano 1868 2010 Ruit Hora
(Bolgheri). A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, this opens with drying mineral
tones of granite and campfire, and it has austere, dusty
tannins. The fruit is bold, pulled together by notes of
cherry, cassis, leather and spice. Tita Italian Import &
Export. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Tenuta La Badiola 2011 Acquagiusta Ro
sato (Maremma Toscana). Based on Alicante, this wine shows bright acidity and a lean mouthfeel,
accented by notes of berry, pink grapefruit and cran
berry. A touch of sweet fruit marks the finish. Terra
Moretti Trading. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Fonterenza 2011 Rosa di Fonterenza (To
scana). This organic, Sangiovese-based rosato
opens with subtle tones of raspberry and citrus. The
palate has a slender feel. Louis/Dressner Selections.
—M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
tuscan red wines
bolgheri
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Casa di Terra 2009 Maronea (Bolgh
eri). An 85-15 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon
and Cabernet Franc, this shows incredible intensity
and gorgeous aromas of cherry, blackberry, oak-driven
spice, chocolate and coffee. The round, velvety texture
makes the palate feel supersupple and long, and the
bright berry flavors demonstrate impressive endurance.
Drink after 2015. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
93
Le Macchiole 2010 Rosso (Bolgheri). A
blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah, this shows
outstanding intensity and length. It has long-lasting flavors of chocolate, bright cherry, spice and leather. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
93
Tenuta dei Pianali 2008 Coronato (Bol
gheri). Formerly Tenuta di Biserno, Tenuta
dei Pianali produces Coronato specifically for the U.S.
market. This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Cabernet Franc opens with bold and fleshy cherry fruit
backed by savory tones of pipe tobacco, leather, chocolate and exotic spice. The wine is full, soft and generous
on the palate. Drink now or hold five more years. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
Price: $40
abv: 14%
93
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2010 Le Serre Nu
ove (Bolgheri). This Tuscan blend opens with
inky dark concentration and soft aromas of ripe cherry
and chocolate fudge. You can taste the plump, ripe and
opulent flavors that will carry this age-worthy wine far
into the future. The tannins are smooth and soft: Drink
after 2016. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $90
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Castello di Bolgheri 2010 Varvàra (Bol
gheri). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot, this is generous in terms of
its aromatic intensity and persistence. The wine opens
with tones of espresso, dark berry, sweet spice and choc-
Casa di Terra 2010 Mosaico (Bolgheri).
Bold, ripe fruit and chocolate notes open the
nose of this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The wine is layered and rich, with lingering
tones of tobacco and sweet spice. Superior Wines LLC.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
Cipriana 2009 Scopaio Red Blend (Bol
gheri). An 80-20 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon
and Syrah, this shows a pristine, polished bouquet that’s
composed of black fruit, rum cake, licorice, tobacco
and spice. The ripe fruit and cassis notes on the finish
add softness and heft. This is elegant and complex, especially in the mouth. Royalty Imports LLC. Editors’
Choice. —M.L.
Price: $25
abv: 13.5%
91
Il Bruciato (Bolgheri). For full review see
page 7.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
91
Serni Fulvio Luigi 2009 Acciderba (Bol
gheri). This Acciderba shows elegance and intensity, and it offers notes of oak-derived spice, dried
herb, blackberry and clove. On the palate, this blend
of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Sangiovese
delivers firm tannins and tangy barbecue and teriyaki
notes. Vico’s Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
91
Tenuta Argentiera 2010 Villa Donoratico
(Bolgheri). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, this opens
with bold, opulent tones of black fruit, ripe cherry,
espresso bean and plum. The wine’s delicate acidity and
ample extraction are followed by flavors of leather, spice
and dark chocolate. David Vincent Selection. Editors’
Choice. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
Donna Olimpia 1898 2010 Rosso (Bolgh
eri). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, this offers a clean,
polished feel, as well as tightly woven forest-fruit and
mineral tones. There’s a blast of freshness that’s followed by soft cherry and tangy herb endnotes. Majestic
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
Le Grascete 2010 Grale (Bolgheri). A
blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese, this shows an impressive jump forward in terms of its intensity and complexity. This wine
is generous, full and round, and it offers flavors of cherry, leather and chocolate. International Wines. Editors’
Choice. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
Michele Satta 2009 Piastraia (Bolgheri).
A blend of equal parts Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Sangiovese, Piastraia opens with tangy
green hints of rosemary and curry leaf, followed by
notes of ripe strawberry, cherry liqueur and blackberry
jam. Touches of leather and tobacco surface on the palate, and the tannins are firm and richly textured. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $45
90
Podere Sapaio 2010 Volpolo (Bolgheri).
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and
Petit Verdot, this delivers soft, concentrated flavors of
chocolate fudge, cherry and cinnamon spice. It’s an irresistible, opulent wine that promises to impress. Lyra
Wine. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
90
Serni Fulvio Luigi 2010 Tegoleto (Bolgh
eri). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and
Sangiovese, this has dark tones of plum and blackberry,
followed by accents of spice, leather and tobacco. It
would pair well with grilled sausage or meatloaf thanks
to the fresh acidity on the finish. Vico’s Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
90
Tenuta Argentiera 2009 Villa Donoratico
(Bolgheri). This silky blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot shows
balanced aromas of black fruit and plum, plus spicy layers of toasted nut and black pepper. Firm tannins give
the finish momentum. David Vincent Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
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Batzella 2009 Peàn (Bolgheri). This blend
of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc shows soft tones of milk chocolate and plush
cherry, backed by a tangy spice note. The fruit feels ripe
and round, although the palate remains firmly structured thanks to the polished tannins. Total Wine &
More. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
Campo alla Sughera 2010 Adèo (Bolgh
eri). Dark ruby color in color, this Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot blend opens with bright tones of
forest fruit, lead pencil, cola and crushed mineral. It is
Tenuta I Greppi 2010 Greppicante (Bol
gheri). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and Cabernet Franc, this has a polished, elegant side,
and it offers bold fruit tones that are followed by barbecue sauce and stone accents. It feels zesty and perky on
the finish thanks to the boldness of the fruit. Massanois
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
Tenuta Moraia 2010 Pietracupa (Bolgh
eri). This blend of 70% Cabernet and 30%
Merlot shows pristine, lively accents of cherry, blackWineMag.com | 17
berry and prune. Spicy leather and tobacco tones bring
up the rear, which give the palate extra girth and density. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.L.
Price: $25
abv: 13.5%
89
Antonino Tringali-Casanuova 2010 Patri
monio (Bolgheri). Touches of rum cake and
licorice lend this 60-40 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot an impression of intensity and persistence.
The wine delivers flavors of blackberry and candied
cherry. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
89
Campo al Noce 2009 Miterre (Bolgheri).
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Caberent Franc, this shows pungent green tones of rosemary, bay leaf and dried herb, followed by flavors of
cherry, blackberry and nutmeg. The tannins are firm
and polished, and the finish is bright and fresh. Brvenik
Wine. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 14.5%
89
Collemassari 2010 Podere Grattamacco
(Bolgheri). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Sangiovese shows bright
aromas of cassis and blackberry. Light touches of spice
and leather lend the finish heft and determination. Bedford International. —M.L.
Price: $40
abv: 13.5%
89
Giorgio Meletti Cavallari 2010 Borgeri
(Bolgheri). Bright bramble and forest floor
notes are followed by black cherry and blackberry accents. Fresh and tangy, the finish shows enough structure to pair with stewed veal and baked potatoes. Specialty Wine Co. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
89
Podere Guado al Melo 2009 Rosso (Bol
gheri). Fresh and lively, this Cabernet Sauvignon (blended with 10% Merlot) opens with aromas of forest berry, cherry, light spice and almond. It
feels streamlined and crisp, and it would pair well with
cheesy pasta or lasagna. Private Reserve. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
89
Tenuta Argentiera 2010 Poggio ai Gine
pri (Bolgheri). Aromas of bresaola and baked
cherry are backed by a fresh tone of blackberry. On the
palate, this crisp, fresh blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Syrah and Merlot offers light spice and tobacco notes.
David Vincent Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
88
Antonino Tringali-Casanuova 2010 Casa
al Piano (Bolgheri). This blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot opens with aromas of cherry liqueur and cassis, followed by accents of leather and
toasted nut. The palate is tight and fresh, and it offers
touches of citrus and forest fruit. Martin Scott Wines.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
88
Batzella 2010 Digià (Bolgheri). Aged in
stainless steel, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah emits ripe aromas of
dark fruit, brown sugar and molasses. Notes of honey
and cherry appear on the finish. Total Wine & More.
—M.L.
Price: $18
abv: 13.5%
88
Campo al Mare 2010 Campo al Mare
(Bolgheri). Tones of leather, tobacco and wild
mushroom are followed by accents of ripe fruit and
blackberry preserves. Notes of rum cake, licorice and
Indian spice give complexity to this blend of Merlot,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.
Kobrand Corporation. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
88
Casa di Terra 2011 Moreccio (Bolgheri).
Soft, round and pleasurable, this Syrah-MerlotCabernet Sauvignon blend would pair well with pastas
or roasts. Bright cherry and blackberry flavors are followed by subtle leather and spice accents. The mouthfeel is fresh and fruity. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
88
Cipriana 2010 Rosso (Bolgheri). This
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot opens
with forest berry and cassis notes, backed by rum cake,
leather and tobacco accents. The palate is sharp, tight
and streamlined. Royalty Imports LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
88
Collemassari 2011 Podere Grattamac
co (Bolgheri). This super Tuscan blend has
touches of savory spice and smoked meat that give it
added sophistication. Notes of bitter almond and sour
cherry appear, but are well integrated. Bedford International. —M.L.
Price: $40
abv: 12.5%
88
Ferrari Iris e Figli 2010 Rosso (Bolgheri).
Black fruit and tobacco notes open the nose of
this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Easy yet structured on the palate, this has loads of
berry-like freshness and clean acidity. Pair it with lamb.
Old Bridge Cellars. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
88
Fornacelle 2011 Zizzolo (Bolgheri). Fresh
and youthful, this opens with cherry and blackberry scents. It shows firm tannins and good structure
on the finish. The blend is 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Tradizione Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
88
Giovanni Chiappini 2011 Felciaino (Bol
gheri). The bouquet of this blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon shows a pungent
note of fresh blackberry, followed by accents of rum
cake and spice. It’s a firm wine, with sweet-tasting fruit.
The Shepherd Company. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
88
Giovanni Chiappini 2011 Ferruggini (Bol
gheri). This youthful blend of Sangiovese and
Cabernet Sauvignon opens with fruity tones of cherry,
raspberry and blueberry. The freshness of the fruit sets
this wine apart and makes it easy to drink. The Shepherd Company. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
88
Michele Satta 2010 Rosso (Bolgheri).
Forward notes of black fruit and cherry are followed by touches of white almond and rum cake. This
oak-aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese,
Merlot, Teroldego and Syrah is tangy and fresh. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
87
Campo al Noce 2010 Assiolo (Bolgheri).
This wine’s personality is driven by its cola, wild
berry, spice, leather and maraschino cherry notes. It’s
slightly raw and rustic, with a bitter almond accent. The
blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet
Franc. Brvenik Wine. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 14%
87
Ceralti 2011 Scirè (Bolgheri). This blend
of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot offers tight
aromas of cola and tar, followed by soft layers of berry, cherry and spicy cinnamon. HB Wine Merchants.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
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Motta 2010 Pievi (Bolgheri). Ripe raspberry and strawberry notes are followed by mild
tones of vanilla spice, rum cake and tobacco. This blend
of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese has a
clean, smooth mouthfeel. Distinctive Italian Wines.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
87
Podere Guado al Melo 2009 Antillo (Bol
gheri). A blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, this shows bright, balanced
aromas of berry, spice and almond. Touches of forest
floor, bramble and crisp fruit bring up the rear. Private
Reserve. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
86
Poggio alle Querce 2009 Il Guado (Bol
gheri). A 80-20 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot, this opens with a polished bouquet that’s
comprised of red fruit, spice and rubber notes, enhanced by leather, tobacco, dark cherry fruit and exotic
spice accents. A hint of Band-Aid brings up the rear. Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L.
Price: $23
abv: 13.5%
Bolgheri Superiore
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Giovanni Chiappini 2009 Guado de’
Gemoli (Bolgheri Superiore). This
small, family-run estate in the heart of Bolgheri has delivered a wine so beautiful and elegant, it is catapulted
to the level of landmark vintages of its celebrated neighbors, Sassicaia and Ornellaia. Inky concentration sets
the stage for generous, but perfectly integrated, aromas
of spice, chocolate and dark fruit. There’s firm roundness in the mouth, followed by unforgettable persistence. Hold this wine 15 years or more. The Shepherd
Company. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
98
(Bolgheri Superiore). For full review see
page 3. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
97
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2009 Ornellaia (Bol
gheri Superiore). If you’ve ever wondered
what makes this wine so special, the answer is simple:
elegance. This shows polished fruit and spice aromas
that are intense, balanced and beautifully integrated.
The blend is 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance made up of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The palate is dense, rich, smooth and supple. Drink
this after 2018. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $240
95
Michele Satta 2008 I Castagni (Bolgheri
Superiore). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Syrah and Teroldego, this delivers bold aromas of chocolate, spice, dark fruit, caramel and graham cracker. It
feels linear and tight on the finish, and it offers firmly
structured tannins that are surrounded by loads of ripe
fruit and mocha flavors. Age this for 10 more years.
Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. Cellar Selection.
—M.L.
Price: $100
abv: NA
94
Aia Vecchia 2009 Sorugo (Bolgheri Su
periore). Soft and velvety, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot releases intense notes of blackberry, cherry, chocolate, spice and leather. It shows plush layers of dark fruit
and tangy tobacco that build the palate’s momentum.
Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
94
Campo alla Sughera 2009 Arnione (Bol
gheri Superiore). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, this
shows a dark, masculine personality, and it offers bitter chocolate, dark cherry, blackberry, rum cake, leather and black licorice notes. Dark fruit on the palate is
backed by well-structured tannins, which suggest impressive longevity. Communal Brands. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
94
Donna Olimpia 1898 2009 Millepassi
(Bolgheri Superiore). A blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, this opens with
spicy aromas of dried ginger, licorice and herb. It shows
power and determination in terms of its bold fruit and
concentration. Drink now, or hold it for 10 years. Majestic Imports. —M.L.
Price: $60
abv: 14.5%
ate this plump, superrich wine. There are hints of cured
meat, Christmas spice and dark berry fruit. The palate
reveals ripe fruit flavors and velvety tannins. Hold this
for 7–10 years. David Vincent Selection. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
sonality, with overtones of cardamom, clove, curry and
rosemary. There are bold notes of ripe blackberry and
prune, backed by drying sensations of tar and licorice.
The oak-driven exotic-spice nuances are almost over the
top. Tradizione Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Collemassari 2009 Podere Grattamacco
(Bolgheri Superiore). Focused and tight in
style, this wine has linear and elegant aromas of bright
cherry, spice, dark chocolate and licorice. The blend
is Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese, and it
shows firm, dry and dusty tannins on the finish. Bedford
International. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $105
Giorgio Meletti Cavallari 2009 Impron
te (Bolgheri Superiore). A 70-30 blend of
Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this opens
with oak-driven aromas of spice and toast, which give
it a bold personality. Loads of bright cherry, blackberry,
plum and licorice flavors appear on the palate to balance
out the spice. Smooth but firm tannins give the wine
structure and longevity. Specialty Wine Co. —M.L.
Price: $40
abv: 14%
Caccia al Piano 1868 2008 Levia Gravia
(Bolgheri Superiore). A bold blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, this opens with soft
and luscious fruit tones of cherry and blackberry jam.
Leather and tobacco add a savory, masculine quality,
and there’s a tart red-fruit flavor that adds a touch of
refreshing acidity. Tita Italian Import & Export. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $56
Campo al Mare 2009 Baia al Vento (Bol
gheri Superiore). From producers Ambrogio
& Giovanni Folonari, Baia al Vento (90% Merlot with
small percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot) shows ripe fruit, plum, blackberry preserves and
cherry backed by cured meat, tobacco and dried rosemary. The wine is round and soft with bright points of
acidity that keeps it balanced. Kobrand Corporation.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $33
92
Grattamacco 2009 L’Alberello (Bolgheri
Superiore). An opulent blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this delivers soft tones of cherry and mild chocolate, followed by
subtle notes of leather and spice. It demonstrates overall balance, and its intensity is elegantly understated.
The palate delivers firm but velvety tannins. Bedford
abv: 14%
Price: $75
Tenuta I Greppi 2009 Greppicaia (Bolgh
eri Superiore). This shows bold oak tones of
toast and spice that will unwind with 3–5 more years of
bottle age. Beyond the notes of cinnamon and tobacco,
this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet
Franc shows austerity and complexity, with touches of
dark plum and tangy barbecue sauce. Give it a few more
years. Massanois Imports. —M.L.
Price: $58
abv: 13.5%
Antonino Tringali-Casanuova 2008 Ren
zo (Bolgheri Superiore). This 80-20 blend
of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot opens with milk
chocolate, cherry, exotic spice, blackberry jam and
crème de cassis notes. The mouthfeel is chewy, rich and
plush, and the supple tannins are followed by loads of
dark berry fruit. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
Castello di Bolgheri 2009 Rosso (Bolgh
eri Superiore). Castello di Bolgheri enjoys
some of the most coveted vineyard sites that are located a stone’s throw away from the Bolgheri castle tower.
The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet
Franc and Petit Verdot, and it delivers black fruit aromas, backed by wet earth, button mushroom and leather notes. It feels plush, yet structured. Total Beverage
Solution. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
Podere Sapaio 2009 Sapaio (Bolgheri
Superiore). For full review see page 4.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $80
Campo al Noce 2008 Riverbero (Bolgh
eri Superiore). This blend of 80% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc shows intensity, extraction and tight, polished tannins. Between the wine’s
strength and structure are soft layers of dark fruit, spice,
leather and tobacco that evolve over time. Brvenik
Wine. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
94
Poggio al Tesoro 2009 Sondraia (Bolgh
eri Superiore). A Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and Cabernet Franc blend, this shows immense density
and richness, and it exudes bright tones of cherry, blackberry, chocolate, tar, clove and licorice. The bouquet is
elegant and complex, but the smoothness of the mouthfeel is what sets this wine apart. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
92
Ceralti 2009 Alfeo (Bolgheri Superiore).
A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Cabernet Franc, this is packed with Tuscan sunshine
and intensity. Notes of blackberry, leather, tobacco and
dark chocolate are recognizeable. It’s dense and thick,
yet it delivers soft, velvety sensations on the finish. HB
Wine Merchants. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
89
94
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montescudaio
94
Tenuta Argentiera 2009 Argentiera (Bol
gheri Superiore). Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc are blended together to cre-
Fornacelle 2009 Guarda Boschi (Bolgh
eri Superiore). This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc boasts a spicy per-
91
Ferrari Iris e Figli 2009 Rosso (Bolgheri
Superiore). This 80-20 blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc shows a bright cherry
aroma, with spice, leather and tar notes in the background. It shows a soft, plush feel, with good balance.
Old Bridge Inc. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
Le Grascete 2009 Le Grascete (Bolgh
eri Superiore). A distant whiff of rubber or
asphalt appears at first, followed by notes of black fruit,
cherry, rum cake and licorice. This 70-30 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc has a lean but
powerful mouthfeel. International Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
91
Marchesi Ginori Lisci 2008 Castello Gi
nori Merlot (Montescudaio). Here is a loveWineMag.com | 19
ly expression of Merlot from the up-and-coming Montescudaio zone, which is located on the Tuscan coast just
north of Bolgheri. The wine shows immense softness,
and it has a huge cherry flavor that has been shaped by
spice and chocolate accents from 18 months in barrel.
Emilia Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
88
Marchesi Ginori Lisci 2009 Campor
digno (Montescudaio). An 85-15 blend of
Merlot and Sangiovese, this oak-aged selection shows
bright cherry and blackberry notes, backed by chocolate, leather and mild spice accents. The round, supple
mouthfeel would pair well with grilled lamb kebabs.
Emilia Imports. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $15
88
Marchesi Ginori Lisci 2009 Macchion
del Lupo Cabernet Sauvignon (Montes
cudaio). This Cabernet Sauvignon shows a dark fruit
aroma, with an herbal note at the back. It has a smooth
texture and medium intensity, and it would stand up to
pork or roast turkey and gravy. Emilia Imports. —M.L.
Price: $25
abv: NA
Val di Cornia
Suvereto
92
Gualdo del Re 2007 I’Rennero Merlot (Val
di Cornia Suvereto). This expression of Merlot is soft and plush, and it offers layers of cherry, raspberry and soft spice. Oak-derived aromas of toasted almond and clove are delicate and well integrated. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $61
91
Gualdo del Re 2007 Federico Primo Cab
ernet Sauvignon (Val di Cornia Suvere
to). Federico Primo is a consistent expression of Cabernet Sauvignon that doles out generous layers of plum
and blackberry, backed by spicy tones of pipe tobacco
and juniper. The oak-derived nuances add extra dimension and length to the finish. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
89
Petra 2009 Ebo (Val di Cornia Suvereto).
The Val di Cornia Suvereto appellation may not
be recognized much abroad (or even in Italy), but it is
definitely worth keeping an eye on. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese is rich, soft,
and medium in intensity, and it offers great balance between the red fruit and dark spice components. Terra
Moretti Trading. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
87
Russo 2010 Ceppitaio (Val di Cornia Su
vereto). A blend of Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Colorino, Canaiolo, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this
shows slightly muddled aromas of ripe cherry fruit and
spice. The palate delivers polished tannins and mineral
nuances. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
Chianti Classico
92
Brancaia 2009 Riserva (Chianti Classi
co). For full review see page 6.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
92
Cecchi 2008 Riserva di Famiglia (Chian
ti Classico). This riserva opens with intense
tones of ripe cherry, chocolate, leather and light spice.
The palate feels firm and smooth, with mild tannins and
a rich, velvety texture. Banfi Vintners. Editors’ Choice.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
91
Castello di Gabbiano 2009 Bellezza
Riserva (Chianti Classico). With fruit selected from a single-vineyard site, this riserva does a
nice job of portraying a fresh cherry flavor within an
elaborate framework of oak spice, leather and tobacco
notes. The wine is propped up by tight wood-derived
tannins, which gives it a firm structure. It could use a
few more years of cellar aging Treasury Wine Estates.
—M.L.
Price: $30
abv: 14%
91
Castello di Volpaia 2009 Riserva (Chianti
Classico). At the heart of the Chianti Classico
region, this estate is responsible for some of the most
elegant and traditional expressions of this fabled wine.
A bright cherry flavor is framed by oak-driven tones of
vanilla spice and mocha. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $27
90
Castellare di Castellina 2009 Riserva
(Chianti Classico). This riserva shows clean,
polished lines, and it offers bright nuances of cherry,
blackberry, leather and moist earth. The mouthfeel is
crisp but powerful, and there’s a lingering sensation of
forest berry and chopped herb on the finish. Winebow.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
90
L’Antica Fornace di Ridolfo 2009 Can
talici Messer Ridolfo Riserva (Chianti
Classico). This selection opens with bold aromas of
black cherry, spice, dark chocolate and tobacco. On the
palate, dark berry notes dominate, accented by savory
tones. The wine is fresh and extracted. Roanoke Valley
Wine Company. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
90
Principe Corsini 2009 Le Corti (Chianti
Classico). Le Corti is a bright, slender expression of Chianti Classico compared to Principe Corsini’s more austere Cortevecchia Riserva. This selection
shows mild touches of tobacco and chocolate set over
rich notes of red fruit and cherry. To maintain its freshness of fruit, this is partially aged in oak barrels, with the
rest kept in cement vats. Henriot Inc. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
90
Principe Corsini 2008 Le Corti Cortevec
chia Riserva (Chianti Classico). The beauty of this wine is that it shows seductive power and personality. Nothing is over the top. Cortevecchia Riserva doles out carefully measured aromas of forest fruit,
spice, toasted nut and tobacco. It feels linear, bright and
tight, but it is also elegant and soft. Henriot Inc. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
90
Vignavecchia 2007 Riserva (Chianti
Classico). Vignavecchia hits its stride with this
successful wine, which reveals spicy, exotic flavors enhanced by vibrant tones of incense and moist pipe tobacco. Fresh fruit lends the palate a plump, soft and
rich feel. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
90
Villa Vignamaggio 2009 Castello di Mon
na Lisa Riserva (Chianti Classico). This
bright expression of Sangiovese is smooth and polished,
and it offers notes of cassis, blueberry, almond paste and
pressed violet. Pair it with fettuccine and porcini. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
89
Castellare di Castellina 2009 Il Poggia
le Riserva (Chianti Classico). Il Poggiale
Riserva opens with bold tones of blackberry pie, plum,
currant, leather, rum cake and dried rosemary. There’s
a ripe, almost jammy, quality to the fruit, and the palate
feels dense and richly textured. Winebow. —M.L.
Price: $35
abv: 13.5%
89
La Castellina 2008 Squarcialupi Riserva
(Chianti Classico). Squarcialupi Riserva has
shown a successful evolution over the years. This bottling opens with tangy aromas of tobacco, dark fruit,
clove and eucalyptus. Small percentages of Merlot and
Cabernet Sauvignon are added to the blend, but the
wine’s winning card comes from Sangiovese’s natural
acidity, which lends the wine a crisp, menthol-like finish. Saranty Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
89
Renieri 2008 Tenuta di Renieri Riser
va (Chianti Classico). This wine shows the
meaty, masculine side of Sangiovese, offering dark tones
of prune, plum, wet earth, tobacco and dried violet. The
grape’s signature freshness washes away any residual
heaviness imparted by the wine’s richness. Michelangelo Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
88
Barone Ricasoli 2010 Brolio (Chianti
Classico). This historic wine offers a nostalgic
glimpse of what consumers love most about Sangiovese
and Chianti Classico. It is steady and clean, and it provides bright pulses of cherry, spice and tobacco. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
88
Castellare di Castellina 2010 Chianti
Classico. This bright Chianti Classico offers
cherry, forest berry and blue flower notes, backed by
touches of wet earth and leather. The palate is smooth
and firm, and it has a fresh, almost herbal finish.
Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
88
Castello di Volpaia 2010 Chianti Classi
co. Notes of red berry, plum, spice, bay leaf,
clove and nutmeg all show on the bouquet. This is bal-
anced, and offers freshness and a menthol note on the
finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
acidity will cut though fatty foods and cheeses. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L.
Price: $32
abv: 13%
livers lively cherry and raspberry flavors. AHD Vintners.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
88
86
86
88
85
Vino Nobile di
Montepulciano
88
Villa Vignamaggio 2010 Gherardino
(Chianti Classico). Gherardino offers tight
fruit nuances of forest berry, white cherry and cranberry, wrapped within generous tones of almond, wet
earth and blue flower. It’s an easy-drinking Sangiovese,
with bright acids on the finish. Bedford International.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
84
88
other Chianti
Renieri 2009 Tenuta di Renieri (Chianti
Classico). Wines from the Berardenga area in
the southern part of the appellation tend to show extracted fruit flavors because of the clay soils and extra
heat. Tenuta di Renieri reflects the region, and it offers bright cherry and chocolate notes. Michelangelo
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
Valiano 2008 Poggio Teo (Chianti Clas
sico). Bright and fresh, with streamlined and
compact fruit, Poggio Teo has the natural acidity to
stand up to cheese- or cream-based dishes. It has light
dustings of toasted nut and spice that give the palate
added dimension. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
Viticcio 2008 Lucius Riserva (Chianti
Classico). This wine is based on Sangiovese,
with a tiny splash of Cabernet Sauvignon, and it’s aged
for 12 months in old and new oak barrels. It shows a savory side, with notes of candied fruit, prune, raisin and
smoked meat. Drink now. Massanois Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
88
Viticcio 2008 Riserva (Chianti Classico).
This estate makes two riservas. One bottling has
a small addition of Cabernet Sauvignon, while this one
includes 5% Merlot. As a result, this shows added cherry freshness, although it is a bit austere, and it concludes
with notes of leather, tobacco and cured meat. Massanois Imports. —M.L.
Price: $30
abv: 13.5%
87
Borgo Scopeto 2009 Chianti Classico.
Borgo Scopeto is a consistent producer with a
deft hand when it comes to the tricky Sangiovese grape.
This Chianti Classico shows clean lines and bright fruit
flavors, followed by mouth-cleansing acidity. Balanced
and fresh. Vineyard Brands. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
87
Marchesi Antinori 2009 Pèppoli (Chi
anti Classico). Pèppoli is a tight and fresh
wine, with lively, one-dimensional fruit. It doles out
forest berry, cranberry and cassis notes, which are accompanied by bright acids. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
87
Melini 2005 Terrarossa Riserva (Chianti
Classico). The great thing about Sangiovese is
that it is usually food friendly, even in its simplest interpretations. Terrarossa Riserva shows slender fruit, with
bright highlights of cherry and red currant. The ample
Villa Vignamaggio 2010 Terre di Prenz
ano (Chianti Classico). Terre di Prenzano
is the kind of Chianti Classico that can be paired with
cheese-stuffed focaccia or gnocchi. The fruit is simple
and clean, and the wine’s bright acidity refreshes the
palate. Bedford International. —M.L.
Price: $15
abv: 14%
Fattoria la Castellina 2009 Tommaso Bo
jola (Chianti Classico). A burnt touch of
roasted walnut appears at first, but it is quickly replaced
with tones of cherry and dried raspberry. This Sangiovese (blended with 10% Merlot) shows bitter fruit on
the finish, which helps it pair with meat or cheese dishes. Saranty Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
Villa Vignamaggio 2008 Castello di
Spaltenna (Chianti Classico). This Sangiovese and Syrah blend opens with slightly burnt aromas of tar and campfire, and it has background notes of
dried fruit and leather. It feels dry and a bit flat on the
finish. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
88
Fattoria Del Cerro 2011 Chianti Colli
Senesi. A nice surprise from the Chianti Colli
Senesi wine region, this Sangiovese-based wine is fresh
and bright, and it comes with berry aromas that are followed by blue flower and wet earth notes. Vias Imports.
Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
88
Melini 2011 Governo All’Uso Toscano
(Chianti). This is a special wine that represents
an antique and almost nonexistent winemaking practice
in Tuscany today. A portion of the Sangiovese grapes
are air dried, and the wine is refermented on the dried
grapes. As result, it shows great intensity and dried aromas of cassis, prune and tobacco. Bright acidity pulls it
together. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
87
L’Oca Ciuca 2008 Riserva (Chianti). This
reveals a piquant touch of vibrant fruit, followed
by bright notes of cherry liqueur, cola, pressed violet
and almond paste. It is not perfectly nipped and tucked,
but it does deliver personality. MHW, Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
87
Melini 2011 Chianti. This Sangiovese shows
pretty cherry and cassis tones and bright acidity. Serve it with pizza topped with sausages and peppers. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
86
Grati 2011 Villa di Monte (Chianti). Bright,
clean and straightforward, this Sangiovese,
which has small additions of Canaiolo and Colorino, de-
L’Oca Ciuca 2009 Chianti. There’s an almost effervescent feel to this Sangiovese-based
wine, which has small percentages of Merlot and Colorino in the blend. It is redolent of cherry cola, almond
paste, raspberry and toasted nut. MHW, Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
90
Carpineto 2003 Vigneto Poggio Sant’
Enrico (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano).
This vineyard-designated Vino Nobile shows concentrated notes of prune, cassis, tobacco and leather. The
mouthfeel is linear, and it has a dusty, almost gritty texture. The wine’s density feels good on the palate. Opici
Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $65
88
Fattoria Del Cerro 2008 Riserva (Vino
Nobile di Montepulciano). This vintage of
Vino Nobile shows lots of fresh acidity, but it has little
fruit to soften the cut. It feels slender and crisp, and it
shows a light berry flavor, veiled by mild spice and leather notes. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
87
Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2008
Incanto (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano).
This interpretation of Vino Nobile is aged for two years
in oak barrels, which lends it toasted aromas of spice
and tobacco, which sit behind the notes of bright cherry
and blue flower. D’Aquino Italian Importing Co. Inc.
—M.L.
Price: $14
abv: 13.5%
Brunello di
Montalcino
92
Caparzo 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
This wine offers a full, bright bouquet that is
packed with notes of cherry, chocolate, exotic spice,
leather, rum cake and a touch of cinnamon. The palate
shows smooth, fine tannins and a long, fruit-driven finish. Vineyard Brands. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
92
Casisano Colombaio 2007 Brunello di
Montalcino. This bright Brunello shows elegance and finesse, and it offers pretty aromas of cherry,
blackberry, cassis, leather, spice and tobacco. The palate
is firm and compact, with a long finish that bears sweettasting fruit flavors and silky tannins. W. J. Deutsch &
Sons Blue Division. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $49
91
Carpineto 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
A study in balance, this wine has dark berry and
tobacco aromas that are elegant rather than overly intense. The palate reveals polished tannins and firm fruit
flavors. Opici Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
WineMag.com | 21
91
Renieri 2007 Brunello di Montalcino. Following in the footsteps of Tuscany’s best Brunellos, this wine shows delicate tones of dried ginger,
chopped rosemary, cola, leather, prune and dark berry.
Sangiovese is an acidic grape, and its freshness gives the
palate some pop. Michelangelo Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
91
Renieri 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Mon
talcino). Delicate and subdued, this wine
shows forest fruit, savory spice and mild tobacco notes,
backed by bright acidity and an extremely fine and polished mouthfeel. It’s a testament to the elegant and
ethereal 2006 vintage. Michelangelo Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
89
L’Oca Ciuca 2007 Brunello di Montalci
no. This Brunello starts on the timid side and
slowly reveals aromas of cherry, cassis, sweet spice, almond paste, plus earthy tones of leather and button
mushroom. The palate feels fresh and tight, and the
wine ends on spicy notes of clove and cinnamon. MHW,
Ltd. —M.L.
Price: $27
abv: 14%
89
Ruffino 2007 Greppone Mazzi (Brunello
di Montalcino). Touches of bitter toast and
roasted almond sit at the top of this wine, followed by
smooth aromas of blackberry, prune, leather and tobacco. The palate feels tight and compact, and the finish
shows lingering tones of black licorice and spice. Icon
Estates. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
87
Fonterenza 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Made from organically farmed fruit, this wine
has distinctive aromas of wild fennel and rosemary,
backed by touches of forest berry, cured meat and bresaola. Firm but silky tannins are followed by smoked
bacon and leather notes. Louis/Dressner Selections.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $100
Montecucco
90
Collemassari 2009 Riserva (Montecuc
co). This pretty riserva from the up-and-coming Montecucco area of coastal Tuscany, which is located roughly between Bolgheri and Montalcino, shows
deep nuances of cherry, blackberry and cassis, followed
by notes of leather and tobacco. The palate is velvety
and fresh. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
Poggio Stenti 2007 Pian di Staffa Riser
va Sangiovese (Montecucco). This wine
shows pristine aromas of cherry and forest fruit, followed by well-etched tones of spice and tobacco. This
has a focused, tight personality, with supple, polished
tannins. Romano Brands. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $43
88
Pieve Vecchia 2010 Chorum Sangiovese
(Montecucco). Ripe cherry and blackberry
notes open the bouquet of this fresh Sangiovese. The
wine’s crisp, slender mouthfeel would pair well with
cheesy lasagnas or grilled meats. Supreme Wines &
Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
88
Poggio Stenti 2009 Tribolo Sangiovese
(Montecucco). A great pairing partner to pizzas or cheesy pastas, Tribolo has the high acidity and
alcohol to wash your palate clean of fatty foods. It ends
with bright notes of cherry, cassis and cola. Romano
Brands. —M.L.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $27
87
Collemassari 2010 Rigoleto (Montecuc
co). This fresh and easy wine from the up-andcoming Montecucco wine region shows bright cherry and blueberry notes, with toasted nut and tobacco
touches. Pair it with meatloaf or breaded veal. Bedford
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
87
Pieve Vecchia 2008 Chorum Sangiovese
(Montecucco). This pure expression of Sangiovese delivers aromas of blackberry, plum and cassis,
plus accents of spice and tobacco. It is easygoing and
crisp, and it would pair well with grilled sausages or
pork chops. Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L.
Price: $19
abv: 14%
Morellino di
Scansano
92
Fattoria Le Pupille 2008 Poggio Valente
Riserva (Morellino di Scansano). Winemaker Elisabetta Geppetti is a beautiful and dynamic
woman, with a firm grasp on Sangiovese and Scansano. Her riserva offers ripe fruit, wonderful softness and
hints of wild brush and scrub oak in the background.
Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
90
Terenzi 2009 Riserva (Morellino di Scan
sano). From one of the most acclaimed upand-coming wineries in Italy, this wine delivers pure
Sangiovese nuances of red fruit, blue flower and wet
earth. It shows beautiful density and richness, and the
finish offers loads of blackberry flavor. Vintners Estate
Direct Importing. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 14.5%
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Terre di Talamo 2009 Tempo Riserva (Mo
rellino di Scansano). A great choice for dinners around the barbecue pit, this Morellino di Scansano delivers luscious berry and spice tones, plus the
bright acidity needed to pair with hearty meat dishes.
Additional flavors of black cherry and chocolate are layered over the lean, crisp mouthfeel. Michelangelo Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
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Fattoria Le Pupille 2010 Morellino di
Scansano. Easy and fresh, this wine shows a
natural ability to pair with most pastas or meat-based
dishes. The finish is driven by smooth tannins and
bright, berry-like freshness. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Fattoria Mantellassi 2010 Poggio Etrus
co (Morellino di Scansano). Morellino di
Scansano is the perfect wine to pair with Italian dishes like ricotta-filled ravioli in meat sauce or fettuccine
with porcini. It shows soft cherry and blackberry aromas, plus bright acids and spicy endnotes. Saranty Imports. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $19
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Fattoria Mantellassi 2007 Le Sentinelle
Riserva (Morellino di Scansano). This
riserva shows tertiary aromas of leather and tobacco,
behind notes of dried fruit and cassis. Also recognizable
are bright tones of licorice and dried ginger that give
the wine its lively personality. Drink now. Saranty Imports. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $24
88
La Selva 2008 Colli dell’Uccellina (Morel
lino di Scansano). The Uccellina Nature Reserve is one of Italy’s most beautiful parks. In the spirit
of this territory, La Selva is a spicy, sun-ripened wine,
with black fruit and prune notes. The tannins of this organic selection are smooth and soft. Euro Fine Wines.
—M.L.
Price: $26
abv: 14%
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Mocali 2010 Morellino di Scansano. A
bright note of fresh cherry appears at the start,
but it slowly gives way to plum and dark fruit notes, plus
spice and moist tobacco touches. This fresh wine would
pair beautifully with pepperoni pizza. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $18
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Terenzi 2011 Morellino di Scansano. This
is a lovely Morellino that delivers lively and easy
aromas of cherry, blackberry and plum. As the wine is
aged only in stainless steel to preserve its freshness, the
integrity of the fruit is remarkable, and the mouthfeel
is bright and focused. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
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Terre di Talamo 2010 Tempo (Morellino
di Scansano). This offers a base of bright
cherry flavor, followed by light tobacco and spice tones.
Pair this with grilled lamb chops or roasted pork rolls.
Michelangelo Imports. —M.L.
Price: $16
abv: 14%
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Fattoria Mantellassi 2010 Morellino di
Scansano. This wine is 85% Sangiovese, with
the balance Canaiolo Nero and Cabernet Sauvignon. It
shows bright cherry and raspberry nuances, backed by
white almond and warm, earth-like tones. Bright acidity keeps the palate refreshed. Saranty Imports. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $15
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Tenuta Pietramora 2008 Morellino di
Scansano. Fresh and tight, this Morellino offers loads of cherry and blueberry flavors, followed by
distant tones of leather and moist earth. There’s a simple but genuine quality to the wine. CWS Wines Ltd.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
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La Selva 2010 Morellino di Scansano.
This slender and streamlined Morellino offers
light cherry and blackberry flavors, with a clean finish.
Made from organic fruit, this selection would pair well
with grilled hamburgers or homemade lasagnas. Euro
Fine Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
Terre di Talamo 2008 Per Cecco Petit Ver
dot (Maremma). Aged for two years in oak
barrels, this Petit Verdot is rich and concentrated, and
it offers pretty aromas of blackberry, plum and bitter
chocolate. Mild spice tones appear on the palate, but
they don’t overshadow the fruit. Michelangelo Imports.
—M.L.
Price: $35
abv: NA
maremma toscana
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Rocca di Frassinello 2010 Baffonero
(Maremma Toscana). The folks at Rocca di
Frassinello set out to make one of the greatest expressions of Merlot from coastal Tuscany. This shows enormous intensity and persistency on the palate, and the
overall experience is driven forward by bold flavors of
black fruit, cherry, black olive, chocolate and cinnamon.
It has a rich, masculine structure, so drink it after 2018.
Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
Price: $120
abv: 13.5%
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Podere San Cristoforo 2010 Petit Verdot
(Maremma). This Petit Verdot delivers blackberry, cherry and cassis flavors, followed by rum cake,
leather and tobacco shadings. Firm tannins and bright
acids give this wine aging potential. Peter Warren Selections & Planet Wine. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $39
93
Rocca di Montemassi 2010 Red (Marem
ma Toscana). Bordeaux consultant Denis
Dubourdieu and winemaker Stefano Ferrante crafted
this blend of Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Petit Verdot. It’s a bottle that raises the bar for the dozens of wines created by the Zonin family, the owners of
this relatively new estate in Maremma. The result is rich
and enticing, and it offers intense flavors of dark berry,
leather, tobacco and bright cherry. Zonin USA. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Principe Corsini 2007 Le Corti Marsili
ana (Maremma Toscana). This has delicious
red-fruit nuances that are backed by espresso, spice and
leather tones. There’s a meaty, savory quality that would
pair well with breaded veal or lasagna. This is a blend of
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Henriot
Inc. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $56
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Rocca di Frassinello 2010 Red (Marem
ma Toscana). You’ll love the way this wine
builds in intensity on the nose and on the palate. The
blend is Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon,
and together the varieties deliver bright berry flavors
and firm structure. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $70
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Terenzi 2008 Francesca Romana (Marem
ma Toscana). This blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon shows remarkable richness
and smoothness. It delivers bright, fresh tones of black
cherry and blackberry that are backed by touches of
leather and tobacco. It’s velvety and taut, not too heavy
or extracted. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
Sassotondo 2008 San Lorenzo Ciliegi
olo (Maremma). Made from the little-known
Ciliegiolo grape, this organic wine has notes of spice
and tobacco that support the flavors of dark fruit, blackberry and prune. The palate is soft, velvety and extra
smooth. Villa Italia. —M.L.
Price: $58
abv: 14%
90
La Selva 2008 Prima Causa (Maremma
Toscana). An organic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, this offers enormous
richness and concentration. The wine is soft and lush,
and it exudes dark fruit flavors that are backed by touches of mineral and smoke. Euro Fine Wines. —M.L.
Price: $48
abv: 14.5%
cherry, chocolate and lightly toasted almond notes on
the finish. Opici Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Podere San Cristoforo 2010 Amaranto
Sangiovese (Maremma Toscana). Chalky
and dry on the nose, with notes of mineral and forest
berry, this Sangiovese-based wine would make a perfect
companion to Mediterranean dishes, meat appetizers or
pastas in rich, creamy sauces. Peter Warren Selections
& Planet Wine. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
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Podere San Cristoforo 2010 Carandelle
Sangiovese (Maremma). Based on Sangiovese, with 10% Petit Verdot, this wine shows bright berry flavors, followed by rosemary and spice notes. The
fruit is clean and lively. The finish shows firm but polished tannins. Peter Warren Selections & Planet Wine.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
88
Mazzei 2010 Belguardo Serrata (Marem
ma Toscana). For full review see page 8.
Price: $55
abv: 13.5%
Podere San Cristoforo 2009 Amaranto
Sangiovese (Maremma Toscana). This
Sangiovese-based wine offers aromas of forest berry,
cherry, red rose and rusty earth. The fresh acidity makes
for a bright mouthfeel. Peter Warren Selections & Planet Wine. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
90
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Rocca di Frassinello 2010 Le Sughere
di Frassinello (Maremma Toscana). This
blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
offers excellent fruit and shapely oak tones of spice,
chocolate and sweet tobacco. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
90
Sassotondo 2011 Ciliegiolo (Maremma).
From the beautiful countryside around Pitigliano and Sovana in Tuscany’s southern Maremma, this
expression of organically farmed Ciliegiolo shows complex notes of dark cherry, spice, humus and rosemary.
Elegance and soft tannins define the finish. Villa Italia.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
89
Fattoria Mantellassi 2007 Querciolaia Ali
cante (Maremma). Alicante is making huge
inroads in Tuscany. In the warm climate of central Italy
this shows bright berry aromas, with touches of spice,
leather, cola and menthol. The palate is bright, fresh
and cleansing. Saranty Imports. —M.L.
Price: $27
abv: NA
89
Terenzi 2011 Bramaluce (Maremma Tos
cana). Bramaluce is a blend of Sangiovese and
Syrah that opens with bold aromas of ripe fruit, blackberry jam and prune. The smoky finish adds a sophisticated twist. Some of the grapes used in the blend are
air-dried on bamboo mats for added intensity. Vintners
Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $23
88
Carpineto 2011 Valcolomba Merlot
(Maremma Toscana). This plump, fruity expression of Merlot from southern Tuscany shows great
intensity. It feels soft and velvety smooth, and it offers
Rocca di Frassinello 2010 Poggio alla
Guardia (Maremma Toscana). A blend of
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese, Poggio
alla Guardia is bright, clean and enjoyable, and it exudes notes of cherry, blackberry and spice. It would pair
seamlessly with red meat, chicken or pasta. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Rocca di Frassinello 2009 Ornello
(Maremma Toscana). A blend of Sangiovese,
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, this shows sunripened fruit aromas of cherry, prune, blackberry and
plum. Spicy toasted notes appear on the finish, giving
the wine richness and softness. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
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Rocca di Montemassi 2011 Le Focaie
Sangiovese (Maremma Toscana). Impressive work is quietly being performed at Rocca di Montemassi, the Zonin-owned property in southern Tuscany.
Thanks to new investments and high-profile consultancies, the estate’s new range of wines is showing nicely.
Among them is this selection that offers a bright, spicy
cherry flavor and a silky texture. Zonin USA. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
88
Sassotondo 2011 Tuforosso (Maremma).
Made from organic fruit, this wine offers luscious cherry and blackberry flavors that arrive in thick,
opulent layers. A veil of plush richness covers the palate.
Villa Italia. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
87
Tenuta La Badiola 2010 Acquagiusta
(Maremma Toscana). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah shows dark fruit tones
of cherry and plum, backed by a rich, soft mouthfeel.
WineMag.com | 23
This easygoing selection would pair well with roast
chicken or pork. Terra Moretti Trading. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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La Selva 2008 Ciliegiolo (Maremma).
Made from organically farmed Ciliegiolo (one
of the great indigenous varieties of Tuscany), this opens
with cherry and cured meat notes, and it shows a bright,
tart quality on the finish. Euro Fine Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
85
Fattoria Mantellassi 2010 Il Canneto San
giovese (Maremma). Made from 100% Sangiovese, this shows bright berry nuances that are simple
and clean. Notes of cherry and raspberry, plus a touch of
bitter almond, are recognizable. The palate feels crisp
and bright. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $10
toscana
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Le Macchiole 2009 Paleo (Toscana).
Made from 100% Cabernet Franc, Paleo opens
with concentrated, sweet-smelling aromas of plum,
cherry and cinnamon, which translate to the palate with
added notes of spice, leather and tobacco. This is bold,
opulent and delicious, and it’s guaranteed to please.
Hold for 10 years or more. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $130
97
Castello di Ama 2008 L’Apparita (Tos
cana). One of the greatest Italian Merlots, the
pedigree of L’Apparita is evident the minute you raise
the glass to your nose. Notes of cherry and blackberry
are seamlessly integrated with touches of oak spice,
leather, tobacco and dark chocolate. The finish is long
and smooth, and there’s enough freshness and structure
to allow this bottle to age for 10 years or more. The
Sorting Table. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $180
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Le Macchiole 2009 Messorio (Toscana).
Round, ripe and opulent, this landmark Merlot
offers lingering tones of ripe black fruit, tobacco and
spice. Oak-driven aromas are still evident at this point,
so give it another 10–15 years of cellaring. Lingering
smoke and spice notes add to the long finish. Messorio is one of the most complete and complex Italian interpretations of Merlot. Domaine Select Wine Estates.
Price: $315
abv: 14.5%
97
Le Macchiole 2009 Scrio (Toscana). Bold
and complex, this Syrah opens with intense, superrich notes of chocolate fudge, maraschino cherry, tobacco, sweet spice and rum cake. Smooth, elegant and
persistent, this amazing expression boasts ripe fruit tannins. Drink after 2016. Domaine Select Wine Estates.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $160
97
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2009 Masseto (To
scana). This edition of Italy’s iconic Masseto
shows enormous softness and richness, driven forward
by beautiful black fruit, spice, chocolate, leather, tobacco and prune. The balance and harmony of the wine
is spot on and those smoky, slightly savory oak tones
are perfectly integrated. What ultimately sets the wine
apart is the smoothness and supple silkiness of the very
long finish. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: NA
97
Tua Rita 2010 Redigaffi (Toscana). An unforgettable expression of Merlot from coastal
Tuscany, this ranks among the top-scoring icon wines of
the world. Smooth and intense, this selection’s integration of fruit and oak-derived spice aromas is seamless. It
feels silky yet firm, and it imparts beautiful cherry and
chocolate flavors that last for many minutes. This is a
keeper: Age it for 10 years or more. Winebow. Cellar
Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $350
96
Tua Rita 2010 Giusto di Notri (Toscana).
A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Cabernet Franc, this shows compelling intensity and
lovely layers of black fruit, ripe cherry, leather, tobacco,
black pepper and licorice. The complexity is impressive,
and so is the palate’s persistence and elegance. Hold for
10 years or more. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
Price: $80
abv: 14.5%
95
Brancaia 2009 Il Blu (Toscana). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $85
ate, which offers tight, polished tannins and long savory
flavors. David Vincent Selection. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $140
94
Castello di Bossi 2009 Girolamo (Tos
cana). Having spent two years in oak barrel,
this Merlot has a generous, yet elegant shape, and it delivers intensity and elegance. The bouquet offers tones
of black cherry, spice, chocolate and rum cake, with delicate accents of licorice and dried herb. The mouthfeel
is smooth and rich. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $50
94
Cavalli Tenuta degli Dei 2009 Red (Tos
cana). The 2009 vintage was on the hot side
in most parts of Tuscany, but vintner Tommaso Cavalli
has done a wonderful job of creating balance and harmony in this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot
and Cabernet Franc. Plush black-fruit flavors are followed by tight, polished tannins. Hold this for 10 years
or more. Sherbrooke Cellars. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
Price: $45
abv: 13.5%
94
Duemani 2007 Cabernet Franc (Tos
cana). Extracted and sophisticated, this bio
dynamic expression of Cabernet Franc opens with compelling aromas of ripe cherry, blackberry, rum cake,
toasted nut, chocolate and tobacco. The rich, smooth
mouthfeel is velvety and long lasting. A.I. Selections.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $80
95
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I Giusti e Zanza 2010 Perbruno (Tos
cana). The quality of fruit in this expression
of Syrah is dark, plush, rich and opulent. The bouquet
offers notes of black cherry, prune, smoked bacon, tobacco, white pepper and clove. The tannins are luscious
and firm, and there’s plenty of ripe fruit to keep the
wine firmly fixed to the palate for many minutes. Vindagra USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $33
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Castellare di Castellina 2010 Poggio
ai Merli (Toscana). Made from 100% Merlot, this wine is immensely soft and plush, and it offers
blackberry, cherry and chocolate tones that build in momentum as the wine aerates in the glass. The mouthfeel
is velvety, rich and generous, and there’s an espresso
note on the finish. Set this bottling aside for 10 years or
more. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75
Monteverro 2009 Red (Toscana). This
wine bursts open with enormous aromatic intensity, and it features notes of red cherry, spice, chocolate, leather and tobacco. This Bordeaux-style blend
offers richness, velvety tannins and a long finish. Hold
for 10 years or more. Opici Wines. Cellar Selection.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $175
Tenuta Argentiera 2008 Giorgio Bar
tholomäus (Toscana). This Merlot opens
with savory aromas of spice and cured meat, followed
by notes of blackberry preserves and black currant. It
shows some secondary aromas of leather and pipe tobacco, plus lingering tones of rum cake, licorice and tar.
There’s a fresh, almost menthol-like quality to the pal-
Monteverro 2009 Tinata (Toscana). A
blend of Syrah and Grenache, this delivers
Rhône Valley-like characteristics of ripe fruit, black
pepper, smoked bacon and exotic spice. But it has an
Italian personality in the form of fresh acidity and Mediterranean spice and blue flower notes. The finish is soft,
velvety and chocolaty. Opici Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $130
Poggio al Tesoro 2009 Dedicato a Walter
Cabernet Franc (Toscana). Dark chocolate
and espresso notes open the bouquet of this concentrated Cabernet Franc. Round and soft, with power and
personality, this penetrating wine sits long on the palate,
and it imparts bright fruit and spice notes with time.
The tannins are tight, firm and polished. Drink after
2016. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $75
Tenuta Sette Ponti 2009 Orma (Toscana).
This bursts open with bright, intense notes of
blackberry, black cherry, moist pipe tobacco, tar, rum
cake and licorice. The solid, decadent yet chewy mouthfeel as well as the impressive length make this a bottling
to talk about. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $85
Terre del Marchesato 2009 Marchesale
(Toscana). This Syrah is chracterized by its
huge intensity and clean, ever-evolving bouquet that is
comprised of ripe dark-fruit, roasted nut and white peppercorn notes. The palate delivers a long succession of
sweet spice and savory tobacco flavors. Small Vineyards
LLC. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $80
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Caiarossa 2007 Red (Toscana). This blend
of seven grapes (Cabernet Franc, Merlot and
Sangiovese are present in the largest quantities) presents brawny, masculine aromas of leather, tobacco,
cured meat and dark fruit. It feels on the ripe side,
with chewy prune and plum flavors that are backed by
a textured, velvety finish. Wade & Clark Wine Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
93
Carpineto 2006 Farnito Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (Toscana). Made from 100% Cabernet
Sauvignon, this bottling really struts its stuff in the elegant 2006 vintage. It opens with intense and finely polished aromas of berry, lead pencil, brimstone, leather
and black currant. It feels tight, crisp and firm on the
finish. Give it another 5–10 years of cellar aging. Opici
Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $65
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Casa di Terra 2009 Poggio Querciolo (To
scana). Dusty notes of brimstone and granite
lift the bouquet of this concentrated blend of 85% Syrah
and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Solid notes of dark cherry, blackberry, leather and tobacco bring up the rear.
The complexity is outstanding, and this bottling will undoubtedly enjoy a long cellar life. Drink after 2016. Superior Wines LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 14%
93
Castellare di Castellina 2008 I Sodi di
San Niccolò (Toscana). This is a historic
wine that consistently delivers an elegant interpretation of Tuscan Sangiovese (blended with 15% Malvasia
Nera). It opens with bright pulses of cherry and raspberry, plus a dark tone of leather. The palate is silky,
fresh and long-lasting. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $70
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Fornacelle 2009 Foglio 38 (Toscana). This
pure expression of Cabernet Franc opens with
beautiful aromas of black fruit and spice, followed by
bright accents of eucalyptus and dried ginger. The bold
fruit component will definitely appeal to those who appreciate a generous and full style of wine. Drink after
2016. Tradizione Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
93
I Giusti e Zanza 2009 Perbruno (Tos
cana). Perbruno opens with spicy notes of
black pepper, clove and Christmas spice that make a
bold and delicious first impression. After a few minutes,
it delivers notes of black fruit, cherry, pipe tobacco and
leather. Oak shadings give the wine a dense and rich finish. Vindagra USA. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $33
93
Tua Rita 2010 Perlato del Bosco (Tos
cana). An oak-aged blend of Sangiovese and
Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine shows bold nuances of
blackberry and cherry, backed by tangy freshness and
integrated oak spice. The wine is tangy and fresh, and it
delivers silky tannins, plus drying notes of tobacco and
crushed granite. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Agricola Querciabella 2008 Camartina
(Toscana). This blend opens with ripe aromas that recall blueberry and strawberry jam, followed
by notes of spice, chocolate and moist tobacco. The
finish is soft and velvety, and it comes with a touch of
plush richness. This is complex and balanced. Maisons
Marques & Domaines USA. —M.L.
Price: $150
abv: 14%
92
Castello del Terriccio 2006 Lupicaia (Tos
cana). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and Petit Verdot, this offers a beautiful bouquet that’s
redolent of sweet cherry, candied fruit, Christmas spice
and potpourri. The palate shows a soft richness that’s
balanced and lively without being cloying or heavy.
—M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 14%
92
Castello di Bossi 2009 Corbaia (Tos
cana). Too young to drink now, this blend of
Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon shows all the requisites to be an age-worthy wine. The quality of the fruit
is rich, the acidity is bright, and the tannins will carry
the wine forward during its slow evolution. Winebow.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
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Castello di Volpaia 2008 Balifico (Tos
cana). Balifico stands apart thanks to its dark,
rich appearance and generous aromas. The blend is
Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, and together
these grapes offer notes of cherry and cassis, plus touches of dried rosemary and toasted spice. In contrast to
the boldness of the bouquet, the palate is fine, polished
and long-lasting. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $57
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Castiglion del Bosco 2008 Prima Pietra
(Toscana). This is a blend of Bordeaux grapes
sourced from the Riparbella Vineyard, which is located
at 1,500 feet above sea level in Maremma. The property belongs to the Ferragamo fashion family. The tannins are velvety, firm and do a great job of supporting
the bright flavors of black fruit and spice. USA Wine
West. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $77
92
Ceralti 2009 Sonoro (Toscana). Tobacco,
leather and graham cracker notes open the nose
of this bold and chewy Merlot. There are flavors of dark
cherry, plum and cassis, followed by touches of tangy
spices. The tannins are round and soft, and the palate
has a dense, chewy quality that would pair with succulent meat dishes. HB Wine Merchants. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $60
92
Monteverro 2009 Terra di Monteverro
(Toscana). A blend of Bordeaux-based grapes,
Terra di Monteverro shows youthful aromas of cherry,
blackberry and cassis, backed by savory layers of spice,
leather and tobacco. This is rich, smooth and powerful, and it will age for 10 years or more. Opici Wines.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
92
Renieri 2009 Regina di Renieri (Tos
cana). This gorgeous expression of Syrah doles
out rich, generous and ripe fruit flavors and a deeply
textured, plush mouthfeel. Elegant notes of licorice and
white pepper appear on the finish. Michelangelo Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
91
Carpineto 2005 Farnito Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (Toscana). Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is bright and intense, and it shows
notes of dark fruit, spice, leather, prune, rum cake and
tobacco, plus aged aromas of black licorice and cured
meat. Fine, dusty tannins mark the close. Opici Wines.
—M.L.
Price: $65
abv: 13%
91
Castello d’Albola 2009 Acciaiolo (Tos
cana). A 65-35 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is bold, opulent and elaborate.
This expression has perfumed notes of incense and exotic spice, lavished over tones of ripe cherry and blackberry. Zonin USA. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $90
91
Duemani 2010 Cifra (Toscana). Luca
D’Attoma, the proprietor of Duemani, is a
strictly biodynamic winemaker and a leading figure in
Italy’s natural wine movement. This wine shows pristine
red fruit notes, backed by delicate, spicy tobacco and
leather touches. A.I. Selections. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 14%
91
Marchesi Torrigiani 2006 Guidaccio (Tos
cana). A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet, this shows weight on the palate, and it offers velvety tannins and bright fruit and spicy flavors. The aromatic delivery is immediate and clean. Montcalm Wine
Importers. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $44
91
Piccini 2008 Sasso al Poggio (Toscana).
For full review see page 7.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
91
Poggio al Tesoro 2010 Mediterra (Tos
cana). A blend of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet
Sauvignon, this offers a powerful and rich opening that
exudes enduring tones of black spice, dark fruit, leather
and tobacco. The palate has a round, chewy consistency,
with polished tannins and loads of concentrated fruit.
Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
91
Ruffino 2009 Modus (Toscana). This shows
power and muscle, but the delivery is surprisingly soft and supple. The wine’s overall roundness is
further reinforced by the irresistible tones of soft chocolate, cigar tobacco and black cherry, which lift straight
out of the glass. Icon Estates. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
91
Terre del Marchesato 2009 Il Tarabuso
(Toscana). The clean, polished bouquet gives
this Cabernet Sauvignon an austere and masculine personality. Beyond the bold aromas of black fruit, leather
and tobacco are delicate notes of pressed violet and rum
cake. The tannins are solid and firm, and a dusting of
WineMag.com | 25
mineral gives the palate extra dimension. Small Vineyards LLC. —M.L.
Price: $45
abv: 14%
91
Villa Vignamaggio 2009 Obsession (Tos
cana). Obsession delivers aromas of blackberry
and plum, with pretty accents of spice and tobacco at
the back. The palate is thick and dense, with tight tannins and loads of dark fruit intensity. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $75
90
Aia Vecchia 2010 Lagone (Toscana). A
blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this opens with rich, concentrated aromas
of black fruit and milk chocolate. There are savory notes
of dark pipe tobacco, clove and cardamom. The palate is
masculine and powerful, with firm tannins. Dalla Terra
Winery Direct. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
90
Caiarossa 2007 Pergolaia (Toscana).
Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
are blended to create a soft, luscious wine that’s loaded with bright cherry, rich chocolate and mocha flavors.
It would pair beautifully with steak in green-pepper
cream sauce. Wade & Clark Wine Imports. Editors’
Choice. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
90
Carpineto 2003 La Fornace Cabernet
Sauvignon (Toscana). La Fornace is a dark,
savory expression of Cabernet Sauvignon that shows
aged tertiary aromas of dark spice, cured meat and
prune. It feels rich and dense, with a gritty quality to
the tannins and long endnotes of bacon, black pepper
and leather. Drink now. Opici Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
90
Diadema 2010 D’Amare (Toscana). This
blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet, Syrah and Merlot strikes a beautiful balance between its hearty blackfruit aromas and spicy oak-driven nuances. The palate
shows persistence, and it comes with bright berry intensity. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $75
90
Duemani 2008 Altrovino (Toscana). Biodynamic winemaker Luca D’Attoma ages this
50-50 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc in cement
vats. Delicate and feminine, this wine has notes of berry, white cherry, bramble, plum cake and sweet spice.
Bright tones of blueberry and cherry drive the refreshing finish. A.I. Selections. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
90
Fattoria Fibbiano 2009 L’Aspetto (Tos
cana). L’Aspetto is an oak-aged blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo that exhibits modern touches of
Indian spice and dark chocolate behind fruity tones of
cherry and raspberry. Clean and bright, this wine has a
long mouthfeel and impressive persistency. Atlanta Improvement Co. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $37
90
Fornacelle 2009 Erminia (Toscana). Distinctive notes of black cherry, chopped mint,
rosemary oil and eucalyptus open the nose of this Mer26 | wine enthusiast | april 2013
lot. The lush, chewy and rich palate shows a lot of personality and pairing potential. Try drinking this with
grilled steak with green peppercorn sauce. Tradizione
Imports. —M.L.
Price: $60
abv: 14.5%
90
Poggio Verrano 2009 Poggio Verrano 3
(Toscana). For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice.
Price: $20
abv: 14%
cherry-like sourness on the close. Majestic Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
88
Fattoria Le Pupille 2010 Pelofino (Tos
cana). A food-friendly blend of Sangiovese,
Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc that
shows easy but rich and intense fruit flavors of cherry and blackberry, plus a subtle spice note. Winebow.
—M.L.
Price: $20
abv: 14.5%
90
88
89
88
Tua Rita 2011 Rosso dei Notri (Toscana).
Based on 50% Sangiovese, but blended with an
assembly of international grapes, this is clean and polished, and it offers bright notes of berry and cherry, plus
mild touches of nut and tobacco. The palate is supple
and velvety. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
Casa di Terra 2011 Lenaia (Toscana). A
blend of Merlot, Malbec and Caberent Franc,
this opens with enormous fruit purity, backed by luscious tones of oak spice and tobacco. The wine’s two
sensations—sweet and savory—are well integrated.
Fresh acidity and firm structure complete the mouthfeel. Superior Wines LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
89
Casaloste 2007 Inversus (Toscana). This
oak-aged Merlot, which includes 10% Sangiovese for extra acidity and brightness, opens with spice,
wood shop, toasted almond and ripe cherry notes. It
offers a chewy, succulent quality, and it finishes with a
dark fruit flavor. Massanois Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
89
Michele Satta 2007 Cavaliere (Toscana).
Light garnet in color, this wine has a subtle bouquet that is redolent of blue flower, almond paste, tobacco and even citrus. The palate feels tight and crisp.
Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $60
88
Cantalici L’Antica Fornace di Ridolfo
2008 Tangano (Toscana). The Gaiole in
Chianti area of Chianti Classico tends to produce some
of the most traditional and pure expressions of Sangiovese, so Tangano is aged for 18 months in oak to add a
spice note and to soften the tannins. The wine opens
with prune, dark fruit, leather and tobacco tones. Roanoke Valley Wine Company. —M.L.
Price: $37
abv: 14%
88
Castello di Vicarello 2007 Carlo Bacche
schi Berti (Toscana). Made from organically farmed fruit and aged for eight months in oak barrels, this dark, opulent blend is comprised of Cabernet
Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, plus a tiny amount of
Petit Verdot. Ripe fruit, blackberry jam and cured meat
flavors are enhanced by thickly textured tannins. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
Donna Olimpia 1898 2011 Tageto (Tos
cana). The fresh bouquet of this blend shows
feminine notes of blue flower and light spice. The aromas are a bit raw at this stage, and there’s a touch of
Mazzei 2011 Badiola (Toscana). A blend of
Sangiovese and Merlot, this shows great balance
and loads of food-friendly nuances of cherry, spice and
chocolate. Bright acidity keeps the palate refreshed.
Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Mazzei 2010 Badiola (Toscana). Sangiovese and Merlot are blended to produce a harmonious, balanced and bright wine that features cherry,
spice and toasted almond notes. The palate is soft and
velvety, and a touch of richness marks the finish. Palm
Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
88
Renieri 2010 Invetro (Toscana). Invetro is
sealed with a reusable glass cork that helps to
lock in the overall freshness of the wine. The blend is
Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, and the
pretty fruit flavors are round, rich and velvety. Michelangelo Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
88
Sada 2008 Baldoro (Toscana). A blend of
Cabernet Sauvignon and Montepulciano from
Castagneto Carducci in coastal Tuscany, this opens with
hearty, extracted fruit and masculine aromas of smoked
bacon, cassis, blackberry and exotic spice. A touch of
sour fruit marks the finish. ID Beverage Group. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
88
Viticcio 2008 Prunaio (Toscana). Prunaio
delivers aromas of prune, rum cake and cherry
liqueur. The fruit is dark and savory, and there’s an aged,
almost gritty quality to the mouthfeel. Massanois Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
87
Carpineto 2011 Dogajolo (Toscana). A
mix of 70% Sangiovese and other international
red grapes, this would pair well with pizza or pasta with
meat ragù. It shows flavors of cherry, forest berry, cola,
almond and a touch of mild tobacco. Opici Wines. Best
Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
87
Gualdo del Re 2010 Eliseo (Toscana).
Firm and focused, this wine would make a great
companion to ravioli or tortellini with meat sauce and
grated cheese. It shows bright cherry and forest fruit
flavors, backed by fresh acidity and medium structure.
Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
87
Il Valentiano 2009 Red (Toscana). This
wine opens with intense aromas of smoked ba-
con, leather, black fruit and prune. Dry, wood-derived
tannins appear on the finish, and, overall, the wine is
more spicy and savory than it is fruity. Vidalco International, LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
87
La Togata 2008 Azzurreta Sangiovese
(Toscana). Hailing from the Montalcino area
of Tuscany, this Sangiovese-based wine offers crisp nuances of white cherry and cassis, backed by touches of
savory spice and bitter almond. The palate is clean, polished and silky. Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
87
Mocali 2010 Fossetti (Toscana). An 80-20
blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo, this shows
bright tones of cherry and blueberry, with a touch of
bitter almond in the background. The wine’s freshness
would pair well with pasta with melted cheese. Michael
Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $15
87
Mocine 2007 S’Indora (Toscana). Produced from the Foglia Tonda varietal, this is
aged for two years in oak barrels to produce a hearty,
dense wine. It exudes aromas of ripe fruit, raspberry
jam and pipe tobacco, and the palate feels generous and
velvety. The Italian Wine Trader. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
87
Santa Cristina 2010 Le Maestrelle (Tos
cana). This wine offers a lot of fruit, with subtle background notes of leather, wet earth and prune.
It’s a fresh, easydrinking selection. Ste. Michelle Wine
Estates. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
86
Casaloste 2009 Rosso Maniero (Tos
cana). From the Marchesi d’Orsi di Villanoca
winemaking family, this blend of Sangiovese, Merlot
and Ancellotta offers tones of raw cherry and raspberry
that give the wine a clean bouquet. The fresh, easy
mouthfeel would pair well with pasta dishes. Massanois
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
86
Fattoria Fibbiano 2011 Le Pianette (Tos
cana). Simple, clean and bright, Le Pianette is
all about fresh fruit. The blend is 70-30 Sangiovese and
Colorino, and it offers lively cherry and blueberry notes.
Atlanta Improvement Co. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
86
Sada 2010 Integolo (Toscana). This easy
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Montepulciano
and Alicante opens with a bright cherry note and
slightly bitter tones of spice and almond skin. The palate is smoothly textured and rich. ID Beverage Group.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
84
Fonterenza 2011 Pettirosso (Toscana).
There’s some volatility to the strawberry and
raspberry notes, followed by cherry and white almond
accents. The palate feels thin, and the wine presents
simple, clean lines. Louis/Dressner Selections. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $22
84
L’Oca Ciuca 2009 The Drunken Goose
(Toscana). A 40-30-30 blend of Sangiovese,
Merlot and Syrah, this shows a touch of cola-like fizz
that tickles the tongue. Its aromas include cherry, blueberry and a touch of natural rubber. MHW, Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
other red wines
91
Rocca di Montemassi 2010 Sassabruna
(Monteregio di Massa Marittima). It’s impossible to resist mentioning the moniker as Sassabruna
truly is one sassy wine. The blend is 80% Sangiovese,
with Syrah and Merlot. Notes of black cherry, plum and
soft chocolate peel away one layer after the next. Zonin
USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
91
Stefano Amerighi 2008 Alice (Cortona).
Made from organic fruit, this Syrah opens with
intense aromas of chopped mint, ginger, cola, black
pepper and dried berry. The wine’s complexity is impressive, and so is its freshness and persistence. Panebianco. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
Price: $45
abv: 14%
89
Marchesi Gondi 2006 Mazzaferrata (Colli
della Toscana Centrale). Toasted notes of almond and spice give this expression of Cabernet Sauvignon momentum and density. Blackberry, moist earth
and tobacco aromas make up the generous bouquet.
Quigley Fine Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $44
89
Stefano Amerighi 2008 Syrah (Corto
na). This Syrah reveals bright aromas of cherry
and blackberry, backed by touches of cured meat and
crushed white pepper. It has a unique personality, and
the finish offers savory hints of earth and porcini mushroom. Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
88
Pratesi 2008 Il Circo Rosso Riserva (Car
mignano). Carmignano is one of the most
overlooked appellations in Tuscany, but the work done
here with Cabernet Sauvignon and other grapes is
worth noting. This blend of 70% Sangiovese, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, shows red currant, wet
earth, leather and dried red-rose notes, backed by dry,
gritty tannins. Winebow. —M.L.
Price: $25
abv: 13.5%
88
Renzo Masi 2008 Rosso di Toscana. This
50–50 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon offers impressive balance. It delivers a medley
of red fruit, spice, leather, chocolate and tobacco notes.
The palate is soft and rich on the finish. Lauber Imports. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
87
Bellini 2009 Le Lodole (Rosso di Tos
cana). Aged for one year in American oak, this
blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
offers a perfumed quality that resembles Christmas
spice and violet. It shows concentration and heft, and
it boasts berry and cherry flavors on the finish. Saranty
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
87
Tenuta del Buonamico 2010 Etichetta Blu
(Montecarlo). A blend of Sangiovese, Syrah,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this opens with tones
of fruit, mild tobacco and spice. The wine’s measured
intensity and bright acidity make it a good choice for
cheesy pasta dishes. Vintners Estate Direct Importing.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
85
Renieri 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. The
2010 vintage is hailed as one of the best ever for
the hilltop hamlet of Montalcino. This has touches of
worn leather and animal fur, backed by bright notes of
cherry and blackberry. Michelangelo Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
85
Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano 2011
Rosso di Montepulciano. Tight and lean,
this Rosso di Montepulciano shows nuances of white
cherry and wild raspberry, followed by thorny acidity.
Franco Wine Imports. —M.L.
Price: $13
abv: 13%
white burgundy
grand crus
97
Louis Jadot 2010 Bâtard-Montrachet. The
vintage brings out the tension of this magisterial
Chardonnay, and it layers nervy acidity with fresh apple and peach flavors and intense minerality. It is poised
and ready to develop over many years. Kobrand. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $330
96
Louis Jadot 2010 Corton-Charlemagne.
Corton-Charlemagne has produced a powerful
and concentrated wine. The massive, opulent feel is balanced by tropical fruits and acids, which are layered between the toast and spice notes. It needs many years to
mature. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $165
95
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Bâtard-Montrachet.
With his family based in Puligny-Montrachet,
Olivier Leflaive knows a thing or two about the grand
crus of his village. This Bâtard-Montrachet is intensely textured, concentrated and ripe, and it exudes equal
amounts of acids. Powerful yet elegant, the toast note is
a subtle expression in this rich wine. This for long-term
aging. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $375
95
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Chevalier-Montra
chet. This wine is just starting out, which explains the toast factor that currently dominates the nose
and palate. As it opens, the opulent, ripe fruit from this
great vineyard shows through in the form of powerful,
and intense pineapple and apricot flavors that mingle in
the tight texture. It will age for many years—start with
at least six. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $500
WineMag.com | 27
95
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Corton-Char
lemagne. Corton-Charlemagne expresses the
power of Chardonnay, rather than the subtlety. Given
that, Olivier Leflaive’s version is finely nuanced, and its
weight comes as much from the rich white- and yellowfruit flavors as the tight structure. Like most grand crus,
this needs to age, so give it 5–6 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $170
94
Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine du Pavillon
(Corton-Charlemagne). Powerful and complex, this shows the density that comes from Chardonnay sourced on the hill of Corton. The rich tropical-fruit
flavors are structured, which gives this wine strong aging potential. Keep it for at least six years. A French
Paradox. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
93
Domaine Champy 2010 Corton-Char
lemagne. Along with the natural power of
Corton-Charlemagne, this wine shows fragrant yellowfruit and pineapple flavors, rich texture and a steely
edge. The taut character and the orange zest and woodderived flavors lend this selection crispness and aging
potential. Keep it for at least seven years. Fine Vines.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: NA
93
Maison Jessiaume 2010 Corton-Char
lemagne. The power of Corton-Charlemagne
is apparent in this dense, ripe wine. Rich and generous,
this selection has tropical fruit flavors that are balanced
by citrus notes, and the wood influence acts as subtle
support. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $173
92
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Vaudésir Grand Cru
(Chablis). This is a wood-aged style of Chablis, but the toast has been applied discreetly. Rich, full
bodied and structured, this wine is full of ripe yellowfruit, spice and red apple flavors. Its acidity makes this a
juicy expression. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $85
côte de nuits
91
Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 En la rue de
Vergy (Morey-Saint-Denis). A pure-tasting
wine, this has a mineral character, tight, balanced acidity and lemon and white-fruit flavors. One of the rare
white wines from the Côte de Nuits, this has power and
a toasty element. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
88
Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Marsannay.
The fruit used to make this blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc was sourced from a number of parcels in Marsannay. It’s structured, fruity and perfumed,
and it has citrusy acidity. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
pernand-vergelesses
92
Domaine Champy 2010 En Caradeux
Premier Cru (Pernand-Vergelesses).
Quite closed at this stage, this is a full wine with tight
acidity and a crisp minerally texture. White flower and
spice notes set off the lively character of this lemon- and
pineapple-flavored selection. This is worth keeping for
4–5 years. Fine Vines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
91
Louis Jadot 2010 Clos de la Croix de
Pierre (Pernand-Vergelesses). Only a small
portion of this vineyard is planted with Chardonnay, and
it has produced a minerally wine that’s both crisp and
ripe. The acidity is dominant at this stage, which lends
the palate a juicy, peach- and citrus-like character. This
wood-aged selection needs time. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
90
Domaine Champy 2010 Les Combottes
(Pernand-Vergelesses). Citrus and orange
zest flavors and bright acids characterize this wine. It’s a
refreshing selection, and it has a tight texture and pear
juice flavor. Age it for 1–2 years. Fine Vines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
90
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Pernand-Vergeless
es. While Pernand-Vergelesses, which is located in the shadow of the Corton-Charlemagne hill, is a
lesser-known appellation, it produces some attractive,
crisp wines such as this selection. Carefully balanced
wood aging enhances the pear and Golden Delicious
apple flavors, which come with a touch of minerality.
Textured and fruity on the finish. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
beaune
94
Premier Cru (Beaune). For full review see
page 4.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $120
92
Louis Jadot 2010 Le Clos Blanc Grèves
Premier Cru (Beaune). This is a round, rich
and soft style of Chardonnay. It feels generous, and its
yellow fruit flavor pushes through the acidity. It slowly
opens to reveal complex tropical-fruit notes, and it will
develop further, so give it another four years. Kobrand.
Price: $75
abv: 13.5%
91
Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine du Pavil
lon Clos des Mouches Premier Cru
(Beaune). Clos des Mouches is one of the top Beaune
premier crus for both red and white wines. This rich
selection offers wood-derived flavors that show through
the racy mineral and yellow fruit notes. The finish is
both rich and crisp, with mouth-watering acidity. A
French Paradox. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
meursault
93
Les Charmes Premier Cru (Meursault).
Toasty, fruity and opulent, this wine also reveals a tight
edge of grapefruit-like acidity and some steeliness.
Pineapple and apricot flavors are finished with a touch
of wood-derived vanilla. It’s a wine for aging. A French
Paradox. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
92
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Charmes Premier
Cru (Meursault). This is a rich, rounded wine,
yet it also expresses a tight texture and nervy acidity.
The toast influence is still dominating, although the
fruitiness of this ripe selection is also showing. With its
weight and structure, this is a prime candidate to age for
several years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $105
92
Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Vieilles
Vignes (Meursault). Tropical fruit aromas
lead to a peach- and apricot-flavored palate. It shows
old-vine concentration, spice from having aged in wood
and a generous, velvet-like texture that is balanced by a
fine shot of lemony acidity. Age this for 4–5 years. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $62
91
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Sous le Dos d’Ane
Premier Cru (Meursault-Blagny). This is a
superrich, smooth wine. The acidity is what keeps the
ripe yellow-fruit flavors in order, and it has a lemon-like
edge to the tropical mouthfeel. Age this for 3–4 years.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
90
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Meursault. Rich yet
structured, this village wine from Meursault is
made in a taut, tight style. Its acidity pushes through
the toast flavor, which creates a nervy texture. Ready to
drink in 1–2 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $55
90
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Bouchères Premier
Cru (Meursault). Full, rich and round, this is
packed with ripe yellow-fruit flavors, layered with toast.
It bears a spice note, delicious acidity and a concentrated, open finish. Let it age for 2–3 years, but it is also
enjoyable now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $105
88
Jaffelin 2010 Meursault. Ripe and fruity,
this wine has a full, rich texture, with apple and
peach flavors and a toast note. On the finish, there is a
citrus-like character from the refreshing acidity. Ready
to drink, but it can be cellared for a year. Epic Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
88
Louis Jadot 2010 Meursault. Ripe and full
bodied, this has rich plum and apricot flavors
and a generous mouthfeel. The acidity and structure
make this an intense selection. Drink now, but also age
a few bottles for a couple of years. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $65
saint-aubin
92
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Dents du Chien Pre
mier Cru (Saint-Aubin). Crisp and elegant in
feel, this has apricot and peach flavors that are balanced
by the tight structure and the green-fruit-like acidity.
The layers of toast have integrated with the ebullient
fruit character and the taut, minerally finish. For aging
3–4 years. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
91
Olivier Leflaive 2010 En Remilly Premier
Cru (Saint-Aubin). A high amount of toast
currently dominates this wine. Texturally, it is minerally,
citric and tight, and its grapefruit and toast notes mingle with its intense acids. Because of its structure, this
needs to age for at least three years. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
91
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Sentier du Clou Pre
mier Cru (Saint-Aubin). Fruity and rounded,
this has attractive, citrus-like acidity that cuts through
the caramel and apricot flavors. There is a delicious, forward orange-juice flavor that adds to the fresh feel of
the wine. It’s ready to drink, although it will also age.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $55
90
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Charmois Premier
Cru (Saint-Aubin). Smooth and round, this
wine has bright acidity, tempered by the toast and sweet
apricot flavors. It has a structured core, and it finishes
with the acidity. Age this for 2–3 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
Price: $45
abv: 13%
90
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Chatenière Premier
Cru (Saint-Aubin). A wine that is currently
closed, this shows hints of bright green- and white-fruit
flavors. The toast influence and acidity cover this complex, potentially impressive selection. With its crisp finish and minerally texture, this has excellent aging potential. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13%
89
Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Le Char
mois Premier Cru (Saint-Aubin). A ripe,
apple-flavored wine, this has a round feel that is pierced
by crisp, citrusy acidity. Made from grapes that were
sourced from the hills above Puligny-Montrachet, this
is a generous selection, with yellow fruit flavors that are
balanced by the refreshing, crisp finish. Loosen Bros.
USA. —R.V.
Price: $48
abv: 13%
88
Albert Bichot 2010 Saint-Aubin. This is a
round, generous and ripe wine, with attractive
yellow-fruit flavors and finely textured acids. A hint of
wood gives an additional complexity. A French Paradox.
—R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
87
Jaffelin 2009 Sur Gamay Premier Cru
(Saint-Aubin). The village of Gamay, supposed home of the grape used to make Beaujolais, is
actually located in Saint-Aubin, near Beaune. This rich,
round white wine demonstrates the full style of the appellation, and it offers a minerally structure. For aging,
but not for too long. Epic Wines. —R.V.
Price: $41
abv: 13%
Puligny-Montrachet
94
Joseph Drouhin 2010 Folatières Premier
Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). This has rich,
ripe fruit and signs of wood aging that are appropriate to
a young wine, but they will certainly become integrated.
What is so delicious about this selection is the fine balance between its generous fruit and its tight, minerally
acidity. Keep this for at least six years. Dreyfus, Ashby &
Co. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $102
94
Louis Jadot 2010 Les Folatières Premier
Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). Always a splendid wine, this 2010 does not disappoint. Complex, intense and fruity, it has tangy fruit; a tight, minerally texture; and an intense, steely character. As the wine develops over many years, it will deepen and round out.
Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $100
94
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Les Folatières Pre
mier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). One of the
best-known Puligny premier crus, Folatières has produced a rich, opulent wine as it often does. In 2010, it
feels more structured and more minerally than previous
vintages. It is ripe and full bodied, and it is well suited to
age for 4–5 years or more. Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $130
93
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Champ Gain Pre
mier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). Champ
Gain is on the upper slope of Puligny-Montrachet. This
is a rich, toasty and ripe-fruited selection, full of yellow
fruit, mango and clementine flavors. It also reveals the
minerality found in most wines from this village. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
Price: $95
abv: 13.5%
93
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Les Pucelles Pre
mier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). Made
from fruit sourced from vines close to Puligny’s grand
crus, this has some of the same structure and dense
minerality as many of the village’s best wines. It’s vivid,
upfront and rich with boisterous fruitiness. The structure will take many years to round out. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $130
92
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Referts Premier
Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). Round, opulent
and generous, this wine has yellow-fruit flavors that are
paired with lime-like acidity, creating a balanced feel.
The toast note is still showing strongly, and it needs a
few years to settle. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
89
Jaffelin 2010 Puligny-Montrachet. This
wine has a fine definition of minerality that’s
combined with tense structure. There is a hint of wood,
a flavor of fresh-peeled apple and a taut, steely edge.
Layers of acids mark the finish. Epic Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $58
88
Joseph Faiveley 2010 Puligny-Montra
chet. This Chardonnay’s acidity and mineral-
ly structure are finely balanced, and its palate already
shows richness. Full, fruity and textured, the wine’s
touch of toast creeps into notice. This is worth aging
for 2–3 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $75
88
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Puligny-Montrachet.
Twelve different parcels provided the grapes to
make this Puligny-Montrachet. It’s rich and round, and
it has a minerally structure and a touch of crisp acidity.
The vintage has given a sense of shape to this whiteand yellow-fruit-flavored wine. The finish bears a lemon-zest tang. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
Price: $65
abv: 13%
chassagnemontrachet
95
Joseph Drouhin 2010 Marquis de Lagu
iche Morgeot Premier Cru (ChassagneMontrachet). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $114
94
Louis Jadot 2010 Domaine Duc de Ma
genta Clos de la Chapelle Morgeot Pre
mier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). Clos de la
Chapelle surrounds an old chapel in the Morgeot Premier Cru. This 2010 is full, ripe and intense, with yellow
fruit and toast flavors that combine with tight acidity to
create richness and structure. Complex, concentrated
and age worthy. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $85
abv: 13.5%
93
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Abbaye de Morgeot
Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet).
Originally better known for its red wines, this vineyard
to the south of Chassagne-Montrachet now produces
mainly white wines. This bottling is structured, firm and
tight, and it promises a future that will always be serious
and austere. Keep it for 4–5 years. Frederick Wildman
& Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $95
92
Albert Bichot 2010 Vide Bourse Premier
Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). Close to the
white grand crus of Chassagne-Montrachet, this wine is
structured and weighty, and it offers juicy apricot and
pear flavors. A citrus element cuts through the wood influence and the steely texture, which brings freshness
to the ripe, rich mouthfeel. A French Paradox. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
92
Maison Champy 2010 Les Chênevottes
Bright and fruity, this Chardonnay has citrus and peach
flavors, with notes of almond, vanilla and spice that reflect the wood aging and make this a wine that’s crisp
and rich. It has a strong texture, and it needs 4–5 years
for its complexities to fully evolve. Fine Vines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
92
Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Les Che
nevottes Premier Cru (Chassagne-Mon
trachet). A rich, spicy wine, this shows flavors of new
wood and ripe yellow fruit. The concentrated palate reveals juicy pear and peach juice flavors and a tight, minWineMag.com | 29
erally structure. Dense vineyard planting and 35-yearold vines bring out extra intensity and complexity. Loosen Bros. USA. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $88
91
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Chassagne-Montra
chet. Initially smooth and rounded, this wine
opens to reveal a structured character. A note of tangy
lemon zest cuts through the pear and quince flavors,
which creates a balance between richness and tautness. Ready to drink in 1–2 years. Frederick Wildman
& Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
91
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Clos Saint-Marc
An elegant yet ripe wine, this comes laced with citrus
acidity, and the yellow fruit and melon flavors give it a
sense of richness. It’s lively and crisp, and it has a toasty
base. Age it for 3–4 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. —R.V.
Price: $90
abv: 13.5%
90
Maison Champy 2010 Chassagne-Mon
trachet. This Chardonnay’s lemon and apricot
flavors come wrapped in a tight texture. At the same
time, it has a full, ripe mouthfeel, with wood-derived
flavors that bring out an extra dimension of richness and
ageability. Fine Vines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
90
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Grande Montagne
This is a tight, currently closed wine, but it has the potential to exude intense fruit and balancing acidity. It
has weight and a taut, minerally texture, and the finish
is fresh and lively. It will age over the medium term.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
86
Jaffelin 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet. A
soft wine without real definition, it has an attractive fruity character, but it’s missing the firm structure of
the appellation. With its vanilla and apricot flavors, this
ripe Chardonnay is ready to drink. Epic Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
Santenay
91
Domaine de Bellene 2010 Les Charmes
Dessus (Santenay). Smooth and round, this
wine is made from grapes that were sourced from the
southernmost vineyards of the Côte d’Or. It has a soft,
rich and fruity character that shows citrus and white
peach flavors, plus a pineapple hint. As it opens, it becomes opulent and full bodied. Loosen Bros. USA.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
90
Domaine Jessiaume 2010 Gravières Pre
mier Cru (Santenay). Santenay, which is located toward the south of the Côte de Beaune, is known
for its wines that are accessible and early maturing. This
ripe selection bursts with flavors of yellow fruit and citrus, touched by wood influence. Drink it over the next
year, or age it for 3–4. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
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other côte de
beaune wines
rully
Jaffelin 2010 Passetemps Premier Cru
(Santenay). Round and soft, this warm wine
from the southern end of the Côte de Beaune feels rich
and generous. It has caramel and yellow fruit flavors,
and its crisp acidity will ensure that it will remain fresh
and fruity. Epic Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $41
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Auxey-Duresses.
With only 100 acres of Chardonnay, AuxeyDuresses, which is located behind Meursault, is a small
player in white Burgundy production. Yet the village
creates distinctive wines that are rich and taut. This
2010 is structured and firm, and it has a fruity, crisp
apple-skin flavor. It could age well for 1–2 years. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Domaine de Bellene 2010 Savigny-lèsBeaune. This wine is concentrated and full in
the mouth, and it bears a minerally texture and intense
acidity. It’s packed with flavors of sweet peach, lime,
ripe Rocha pear and spice from the wood maturation.
This promises to age for several years. Loosen Bros.
USA. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
Louis Jadot 2010 Le Clou d’Orge (La
doix). Better known for its red wines, Ladoix’s
whites are a rarity. This wine is made from fruit sourced
from vines that are close to the Corton hill. It is steely,
minerally and crisp, with a wood-influenced character.
With its structure, this needs at least three years of aging. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
Albert Bichot 2010 Savigny-lès-Beaune.
This is a textured, dense and concentrated selection that has notes of white fruits and white flowers.
It’s a wine for medium-term aging. A French Paradox.
—R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
88
Maison Champy 2010 Auxey-Duresses.
Like a baby Meursault, this is a a rich, plump
wine that’s full of yellow fruit. The acidity is soft, yet
lively enough to give the palate an attractive, citrus-like
edge. The finish brings out cinnamon, vanilla and warm
fruit flavors. Fine Vines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
Antonin Rodet 2010 Château de Rully La
Pucelle Cuvée Comte R. de Ternay Pre
mier Cru (Rully). This wine has a tight structure that’s
laced with wood. The complex fruit is still settling into
the structure, promising richness. Age this for at least
five years. Boisset Family Estates. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
Antonin Rodet 2010 Château de Rully La
Bressande Cuvée Comte R. de Ternay
Premier Cru (Rully). Full bodied, rich and ripe, this
wine has a minerally texture and is loaded with tropical
fruit, citrus and apricot flavors. It’s a serious selection
that needs some aging. This is one of a series of singlevineyard wines from the Comte de Ternay estate. Boisset Family Estates. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $36
abv: NA
Antonin Rodet 2010 Château de Rully
Saint Jacques Cuvée R. de Ternay (Rul
ly). There is a fine mineral-driven backbone to this ripe,
concentrated and fruity wine, which gives its dense apricot and pineapple flavors great structure. It needs to age
for at least four years. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
90
Cuvée R. de Ternay (Rully). Soft and ripe,
this wine has juicy pineapple and pear flavors. And with
its tension between richness and steeliness, this could
certainly age. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
88
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Saint-Romain. This
wine has a crisp, steely texture. The apple and
citrus flavors and the wood underlay make this a foodfriendly selection. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
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Antonin Rodet 2010 Château de Mercey
Chardonnay (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes
de Beaune). This wine has a bright, crisp character
that is reminiscent of Chablis. It has refreshing lemon
and apple flavors, and it’s ready to drink. Boisset Family
Estates. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $23
Maison Champy 2010 Saint-Romain. A
textured and minerally wine, this is wine has
plenty of citrus flavor. It is fruity and crisp, and it offers
a touch of vanilla and lively acidity on the finish. Fine
Vines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
Cuvée R. de Ternay (Rully). This has apricot and pear flavors, plus a nutmeg hint and intense, refreshing acidity. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
Saint Jacques Cuvée R. de Ternay (Rul
ly). Aromatic and ripe, this Chardonnay has creamy
pear and apricot flavors, plus touches of wood and a
warm, rich mouthfeel. It has a soft character, a hint of
acidity and lemony freshness. Boisset Family Estates.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Vauvry Premier Cru
(Rully). Made from fruit that’s sourced from
the northern Côte Chalonnaise, this structured wine
shows crisp acids and bright yellow fruits, with a sense
of richness that comes from the vanilla and apricot flavors. The finish is laced with refreshing acidity. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
other côte
chalonnaise wines
89
Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Premier
Cru (Montagny). A delicious shot of citrusy
acidity makes this a wine of great freshness. At the same
time, the wood-derived flavors add some richness and a
spice note. Let this intense effort age for another couple
of years. Loosen Bros. USA. —R.V.
Price: $32
abv: 13%
88
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Premier Cru (Mon
tagny). Montagny produces wines that have
a warm, southern feel. This full-bodied wine is packed
with flavors of yellow fruits, and it offers ripe acidity and
a touch of toast. The finish shows a limestone-like minerality. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Pouilly-Fuissé
91
Domaine Ferret 2010 Tête de Cru Les
Perrières (Pouilly-Fuissé). Made from fruit
that was sourced from a 2.4-acre plot on the steep slopes
of Vergisson, this is an intense, ripe, wood-aged wine.
The acidity is allied to the spice and yellow fruit flavors.
A concentrated wine of great purity, this is worth aging
for several years. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
90
Domaine Sangouard-Guyot 2011 Quin
tessence (Pouilly-Fuissé). Rich and smooth,
this wood-aged wine shows great weight and concentration. A touch of minerality provides a counterbalance
to the ripe lemon and apricot flavors. It needs a couple
of years to fully reveal its structured side. Vin de Garde
Wines. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
88
Domaine Luquet 2010 Vieilles Vignes
(Pouilly-Fuissé). This is a rich, wood-aged
single-vineyard selection that has a balanced toast element, crisp fruit and a taut texture. Acidity currently
drives this wine, so give it another year to come into full
focus. Total Wine & More. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
87
Antonin Rodet 2011 Pouilly-Fuissé. This
is a big, fat Chardonnay—at least in Burgundy
terms. It has a ripe yellow-fruit flavor, a rich texture and
soft acidity. Subtle wood influence gives further roundness to this almost pebble-smooth wine. It’s delicious
now, and it’s likely to develop quickly. Boisset Family
Estates. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $25
87
texture is quite dominant, let this age for two years to
allow the opulent fruit to surface. Total Wine & More.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
85
Jaffelin 2010 Pouilly-Fuissé. This Chardonnay is minerally and dry, and it has taut acidity and structured quince fruit. The finish is crisp. Epic
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
Cave de l’Aurore 2009 Les Beluses (Mâ
con-Chardonnay). This is a fruity wine that
has light acidity and touches of vanilla and pineapple. It
is round, rich and soft, and there is a fine tang of orange
zest on the finish. Viceroy Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Mâcon-Villages
85
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Domaine Sangouard-Guyot 2011 Clos de
la Bressande (Mâcon-Villages). A fresh,
lemon-scented wine, this has fine minerality and youthful acidity that needs some months to become round.
Vin de Garde Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
85
Antonin Rodet 2011 Mâcon-Villages.
Ripe yellow-fruit flavors and a soft texture are
the hallmarks of this wine. Full in the mouth, this has a
warm southern Burgundy feel. It offers touches of spice
and green herbs, and it has orange-zest-like acidity on
the finish. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V.
Price: $15
abv: NA
85
Barton & Guestier 2011 Mâcon-Villages.
Warm and round, this Mâcon has ripe melon
and peach flavors that come with a citrusy edge. It has
an attractive floral character that brings out the light
minerality and acidity on the finish. Barton & Guestier
USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
85
Domaine Luquet 2011 Clos de Conde
mine (Mâcon-Villages). This wine has lemon
peel and apple skin flavors that come through the firm,
tangy structure. It has richness and the potential to age
for the medium term. The finish is full of refreshing
acidity. Total Wine & More. —R.V.
Price: $15
abv: 13%
83
Domaine Luquet 2011 Les Mulots (Mâ
con-Villages). Soft and simple, this has a pear
flavor, a touch of vanilla and a creamy texture, plus crisp,
lemon-zest-like acidity on the finish. Drink this now. Total Wine & More. —R.V.
Price: $15
abv: 13%
other mâconnais
wines
Domaine Ferret 2010 Sous Vergisson
(Pouilly-Fuissé). This is a fruity wine, with
upfront peach and apricot flavors. It has bright acidity and just a hint of wood. Produced for the first time
by Ferret, this selection is rich, open and generous, although the acidity is never left behind. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
Bret Brothers 2010 Climat en Combe
(Saint-Véran). This is a rich, fruity wine that
has a definite minerally character. The chalky texture is
laced with lemon and apricot flavors, leading to a crisp,
tight finish. Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V.
Price: $31
abv: 13%
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Domaine Luquet 2011 Bois Seguin
(Pouilly-Fuissé). This has a minerally, tense
structure as well as green fruit and citrus flavors. As the
ish, there is a tang of orange zest. Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V.
Price: $30
abv: 12.5%
89
Bret Brothers 2010 Climat la Roche (Mâ
con). Round and fruity in character, this has
initial freshness and ripe yellow-fruit flavors. On the fin-
Domaine des Rochers 2010 Mâcon
Chaintré. This is a lemon-scented wine that
shows a hint of wood influence. It’s crisp and mineral in
character, and it has a bitter almond flavor and a touch
of pineapple-like acidity. Esprit du Vin. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
85
Domaine Luquet 2011 Vers les Monts
(Saint-Véran). This selection is fruity and refreshing, yet it has a full body and a ripe character. Taut
and tangy on the finish, this wine can age for another
6–9 months to allow the structure to soften. Total Wine
& More. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
85
Jaffelin 2010 Les Villages de Jaffelin
(Mâcon-Péronne). A ripe aroma of mango
shows in this tropical-fruit-driven wine. It has a rich,
round and soft feel, with a slightly minerally texture.
The acidity provides freshness. Epic Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
84
Domaine Luquet 2011 Mâcon-Fuissé.
Initially closed, this wine soon reveals a crisp,
zesty texture and flavors of citrus and green apple. With
its minerally character, Mâcon-Fuissé is a sort of poor
man’s Pouilly-Fuissé, although it often shows more softness. Total Wine & More. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
chablis
91
Domaine Charly Nicolle 2011 Les Four
neaux Premier Cru (Chablis). Les Fourneaux is one of the smallest premier crus. Rich and
balanced, this wine is full of pear and apricot flavors.
It combines a minerally edge with a generous structure
and fruitiness. Delicious now, but keep it for 3–4 years.
Serge Doré Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $39
91
Garnier et Fils 2010 Mont de Milieu Pre
mier Cru (Chablis). Fragrant and generous,
this ripe wine shows its fruitiness as easily as it reveals its
structure. Its ripe, full-bodied character remains tightly
textured, which makes it an age-worthy selection. Serge
Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
91
Garnier et Fils 2008 Grains Dorées (Cha
blis). Aged for 30 months in wood, this Chablis
has a distinctively ripe and rich character that puts it
closer to Meursault in style. Only on the finish, through
all of the toast and fruit flavors, does the steely acidity
emerge. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $45
WineMag.com | 31
91
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Fourchaume Pre
mier Cru (Chablis). While this wine has the
crispness of Chablis, it also has weight and concentration. The bright green-apple flavor is underpinned by a
sense of minerality. Nervy, tense yet fruity, this can age
for 2–3 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $45
87
Domaine Charly Nicolle 2011 Cuvée An
cestrum (Chablis). Light and fruity, this has
flavors of creamed apple and ripe Williams pear. The
wine is crisp and tangy, and it’s shot through with lemon
zest and acidity. Ready to drink in one year. Serge Doré
Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $27
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Garnier et Fils 2011 Chablis. While this is
a fruity Chablis, it also shows some of the steeliness for which the appellation is known. It has ripe lemon and pineapple flavors that lend the wine an open
character. It’s ready to drink, but it could be aged for
one year. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
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Olivier Leflaive 2010 Les Deux Rives
(Chablis). This is made using a selection of
fruit that’s sourced from both banks of the Serein River.
It’s a properly crisp Chardonnay, and it offers a white
fruit flavor and a bright, lively finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
Price: $35
abv: 12%
86
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85
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Domaine Charly Nicolle 2011 Mont de
Milieu Premier Cru (Chablis). With its upfront, ripe apple and pear flavors, this wine is immediately attractive. Behind the fruitiness, there is a firm,
structured character of minerality and a steely edge,
which makes this a Chardonnay to age for 3–4 years.
Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $39
Domaine Vrignaud 2011 Les Cham
préaux Fourchaume Premier Cru (Cha
blis). The most taut and steely of the wines made by
Guillaume Vrignaud from Fourchaume fruit, this offers
a tight, minerally texture, lively acidity and an appleand grapefruit-like crispness. With its structure, this has
the potential to age for 4–5 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
Price: $45
abv: 12.5%
90
Garnier et Fils 2011 Montmains Premier
Cru (Chablis). Ripe and creamy in texture,
this wine offers mango and pineapple flavors and crisp,
citrusy acidity. It’s an age-worthy selection, with minerality and a fine texture. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $60
89
Domaine Vrignaud 2011 Les Vaupulans
Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis). Made
from fruit sourced from a parcel in Fourchaume, this
fruity wine offers green fruit flavors that are cut by
the minerally texture. It is crisp, taut and nervy, and it
needs a few years to show its best. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $65
89
Domaine Vrignaud 2011 Vieilles Vignes
Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis). Full
bodied and ripe, this Chardonnay is packed with yellow
fruit and pear flavors, and it shows the steely, minerally character typical of Chablis. It has a youthful brightness on the finish, and it will fill out over the next few
months. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
Price: $80
abv: 13%
89
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Montée de Tonnerre
Premier Cru (Chablis). This is a ripe wine,
with flavors of apple, pear, caramel and a touch of mineral that is subordinate to the fruit. It is lightly toasty,
and the acidity is crisp. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
88
Domaine Vrignaud 2011 Fourchaume
Premier Cru (Chablis). This wine’s fresh,
fragrant fruit comes with a steely blade of acidity and
minerality. It is just beginning to show its concentration,
and the citrus and white peach flavors are starting to develop. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
Jacques Bourguignon 2011 Chablis.
Made in the buttery style, this is a vanilla- and
toast-flavored Chablis. Tropical fruits dominate the
ripe, fruity palate, and there’s not a touch of minerality
or steeliness in sight. Latitude Wines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
Domaine Vrignaud 2011 Chablis. Soft and
ripe, this Chablis has white fruit and citrus flavors. The palate reveals a yeasty character that intrudes
on the fresh fruit. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
bourgogne
Domaine Jessiaume 2010 Chardonnay
(Bourgogne). This is a fragrant, floral wine,
with a smooth touch of vanilla. It has a fruity, ripe feel,
and it shows fresh, crisp, apple-like acidity. This is a
ready-to-drink, balanced Chardonnay. USA Wine West.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $27
Joseph Faiveley 2010 Chardonnay
(Bourgogne). There is a touch of spice on this
wine, along with flavors of crisp citrus and green apple.
Fruity and bright, this is already drinkable, and it finishes with a tang of lemon zest. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Aligoté (Bour
gogne). A crisp, almost herbaceous wine, this
is refreshing, like a breath of fresh air. It’s lively, light
and fruity, and it has green- and white-fruit flavors that
combine well. Drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. —R.V.
Price: $23
abv: 12%
Antonin Rodet 2011 A. Rodet Chardon
nay (Bourgogne). Soft, light and fruity, this
wine is already approachable. It is an apple- and apricot-flavored Chardonnay, with just a tang of lemon zest
that lends the finish some bite. Boisset Family Estates.
—R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $18
Chateau de Pizay 2011 Chardonnay
(Bourgogne). This is a light, bright whiteflower-perfumed wine, and it offers fresh, apple-like
acidity, a crisp texture and an edge of lemon zest. For
drinking soon. David Milligan Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
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85
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Simon Bize 2010 Les Champlains (Bour
gogne). This has a delicate citrus character
and a tangy, minerally texture. The ripe fruits are balanced by acidity. Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $26
Vignes Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Smooth
and rich, this wine is made from fruit that’s sourced
from 65-year-old vines. It has fresh acidity that gives a
bright quality to the ripe fruit. For an entry-level Bourgogne, this has complexity and weight. Loosen Bros.
USA. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
Albert Bichot 2010 Secret de Famille
Chardonnay (Bourgogne). This is full of citrus flavors, with toast and pineapple touches. It’s attractive, crisp and ready to drink. A French Paradox. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
86
Antonin Rodet 2010 A. Rodet Chardon
nay (Bourgogne). There is warmth to this
fruity, ripe wine. It shows great balance between its intense acids and fruitiness, making it delicious and ready
to drink. Boisset Family Estates. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $18
Joseph Drouhin 2011 Laforet Chardon
nay (Bourgogne). This white Burgundy is
crisp, rich and lemony, and it comes with touches of vanilla and apricot and taut acidity on the finish. Ready to
drink. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $13
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Les Sétilles Char
donnay (Bourgogne). A light and fruity
Chardonnay, this has a softness that’s akin to creamed
apple and ripe melon. The orange-zest-like acidity adds
to the feel of this open, ready-to-drink wine. Frederick
Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
Price: $25
abv: 13%
Jaffelin 2010 Les Chapitres de Jaffelin
Chardonnay (Bourgogne). Round and softly fruity, this white Burgundy comes with a hint of vanilla. With its ripe apple, lime and yellow fruit flavors,
it’s instantly drinkable. The finish is touched by acidity.
Epic Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
Crémant de
Bourgogne
84
Domaine du Vissoux NV Blanc de Blancs
Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). Light and
crisp, this wine has a smooth apple flavor and soft acidity. It is fragrant and fruity, with some sweetness on the
finish. It would make for a good apéritif. WeygandtMetzler. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12%
from grapes sourced from the upper portion of the
Chambertin vineyard, this selection also has a mineral
element, and it promises considerable aging potential.
A French Paradox. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: NA
red burgundy
95
grand crus
97
Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 BonnesMares. This is a big, dense wine that has great
generosity. It’s ripe, full bodied and opulent now, and it
offers concentration and depth of flavor. The fruit used
to make this wine was sourced from 60-year-old vines
located near Clos de Tart. It has considerable aging potential, so cellar this for 8–10 years. Martin Scott Wines.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
97
Louis Jadot 2010 Bonnes-Mares. Located in the northern end of Chambolle-Musigny,
Bonnes Mares shows much of the same structure as
Morey-Saint-Denis. This 2010 has so much weight and
concentration, and it bears red fruit flavors and bright
acids. It has a tannic side as well, which promises that
this wine will age. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $300
97
Louis Jadot 2010 Chapelle-Chambertin.
The nose demonstrates that this is obviously a
wood-aged wine. The palate has a huge, dense structure, and the wood-derived tannins are buried within
its powerful fruit and acidity. For those prepared to wait
for 7–8 years, this has the potential to become rich and
opulant. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $260
abv: 13.5%
96
Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Chambertin
Clos de Bèze. Made from fruit that was
sourced from old vines, some of which were planted in
1912, this wine is dense and concentrated. It demonstrates both elegance and an immense tannic character.
Acidity and flavors of blackberry and spice are all present. This demands to be aged for a long time. Martin
Scott Wines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
96
Louis Jadot 2010 Clos Saint-Denis. This
firm, tannic wine is made from fruit sourced
from a vineyard in the heart of Morey-Saint-Denis. It’s
a solid selection, and it has enormous potential. The
ripe black-cherry and plum flavors are dominated by
the tannins. Concentrated, this is ready for long-term
aging. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $280
96
Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Les
Grandes Lolières (Corton). For full review
see page 3. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $104
95
Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine du Clos
Frantin (Chambertin). The king of the
Gevrey-Chambertin grand crus, this powerful, concentrated Chambertin is a blockbuster. It is currently dominated by its structure, which hides the ripe fruit. Made
Domaine Faiveley 2010 Chambertin Clos
de Bèze. One of the jewels of Domaine Faively,
this wine is huge, rich and structured. It has power and
concentrated tannins, and the hints of wood aging are
apparent. The ripeness of the fruit and the serious texture promise long-term aging. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $385
94
Albert Bichot 2010 Charmes-Chambertin.
This wine’s concentrated tannins mingle with its
raspberry, blueberry and rich plum flavors. While it is
powerful and structured, it also has a fine sense of ele
gance, a combination that will allow this wine to age for
decades. A French Paradox. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
94
Albert Bichot 2010 Latricières-Cham
bertin. A powerful wine that’s made from
fruit sourced from the southern neighbor of the great
Chambertin grand cru, this is rich, deep and complex. A
smoky note is followed by black fruits, dark tannins and
a sense of richness and structure. It has great weight,
and it will need many years of aging. A French Paradox. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
93
Albert Bichot 2010 Clos des Maréchaudes
(Corton). Bichot owns part of this small grand
cru portion of Maréchaudes as well as the walled section of the premier cru section. This is dense, solid and
powerful, and it demonstrates the dark character of
the clay soil. A concentrated black-plum flavor is supported by firm, dry tannins, which makes this a serious,
age-worthy wine. A French Paradox. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
93
Frantin (Clos de Vougeot). Big and structured, this wine is currently dominated by tannins, but
it shows a hint of its intense fruit and potential. The red
and black fruits are rich and ripe, and they promise future balance. Age this for at least 7–8 years. A French
Paradox. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
93
Domaine Champy 2010 Corton-Bres
sandes. This firm, structured wine has ripe,
restrained tannins that lend the palate a sense of elegance. It’s a fruity selection, packed with acidity and red
berry flavors, and it has a firm finish. Keep this for at
least eight years. Fine Vines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
93
L. Tramier & Fils 2009 Collection (Clos de
Vougeot). With its firm tannins and powerful
fruit, the style of Clos de Vougeot is well expressed. It
has weight, and it is loaded with juicy black fruits and
acidity. With its dense texture, it’s a wine for the long
haul. Luxe Vintages. —R.V.
Price: $225
abv: 13.5%
93
Maison Champy 2010 Charmes-Cham
bertin. Champy only makes two barrels of this
wine. It’s finely concentrated, and it has solid tannins
and rich, powerful black-plum and cherry flavors. Keep
it for at least 8–9 years. Fine Vines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
93
Maison Jessiaume 2010 Chambertin.
This bears a ripe, fruity character as well as
enormous structure and power. It offers a black plum
flavor, a dense texture and concentration. The firm, dry
tannins and the hint of wood aging promise that this
has a long future. USA Wine West. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
Price: $270
abv: 13%
93
Maison Jessiaume 2010 Clos de Vou
geot. This opulent, rich Clos de Vougeot could
perhaps use firmer tannins, but it has ripe berry and
cherry flavors. It has a solid core that is enveloped by
the generous fruit. Age this for six years and more. USA
Wine West. —R.V.
Price: $191
abv: 13%
92
Domaine Champy 2010 Corton-Rognet.
Currently dominated by tannins, this wine is
rich and structured, and it demonstrates the potential
of its huge fruit and weight. The final note of this ageworthy wine is smokiness from wood aging. Fine Vines.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
92
L. Tramier & Fils 2009 Collection (Cor
ton). This is a closed, smoke-filled wine, and its
tannins and toasty wood character currently dominate,
which gives it a bitter edge. It has richness, with hints of
juicy fruit that sit under the structure. Give it at least six
years. Luxe Vintages. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $93
91
Maison Champy 2010 Clos de Vougeot.
For its youth, this is surprisingly forward and
fruity. It is concentrated, and it offers a ripe plum flavor,
sweet tannins and attractive acidity. The structure sits
behind the delicious fruit, which suggests that this wine
is only for the medium term. Fine Vines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
marsannay
91
Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Les Lon
geroies (Marsannay). Rich, elegant and
classic, this wine is made from fruit sourced from old
vines—some as much as 70 years old. It has a tannic
structure, but the dominant elements are the dense
red- and black-plum flavors, which are supported by the
wine’s acids. Age it for 5–6 years. Martin Scott Wines.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
90
Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Les Grass
es Têtes (Marsannay). This wine is powerful and tannic, firm and dense. The fruit character is
WineMag.com | 33
still submerged by the concentrated, dry core, which
suggests that this wine needs at least 4–5 years before
the red berry fruits show through. Martin Scott Wines.
—R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
90
Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Vaudenelles
(Marsannay). Located on a high slope in Marsannay, the Vaudenelles Vineyard creates structured
wines. This selection has a beautiful perfumed character, and it offers delicious red-berry flavors and lively
acids that are striated by minerality. Martin Scott Wines.
—R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
90
Domaine
Sylvain
Pataille
2010
L’Ancestrale (Marsannay). An old-vine
wine, this is powerful, concentrated and impressively
dense for a Marsannay. It is full of red plum and berry
flavors, plus firm tannins that suggest this could age for
several years. Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V.
Price: $73
abv: 13%
88
Domaine Sylvain Pataille 2010 Marsan
nay. A fruity style of wine, this has red berry
flavors and only touches of structure and tannin. The
wine is warm and round, packed with fruit on the finish.
Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $26
88
Louis Jadot 2010 Marsannay. Marsannay
is a small appellation in the northern end of the
Côte de Nuits, and it produces fine rosés as well as light
reds. This well-balanced, fruity red is already approachable, and it offers a juiciness that comes from the raspberry and cherry flavors. Keep it for a couple of years,
but also try some soon. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
gevrey-chambertin
95
Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Clos SaintJacques Premier Cru (Gevrey-Cham
bertin). Made from fruit sourced from one of the finest premier crus in Gevrey-Chambertin, this is a closed
wine initially. Then its rich black-fruit flavors explode,
yet the wine still retains its serious, tannic character.
The structure promises that this complex bottling will
age well. Martin Scott Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: NA
but it has enough concentration and density to age for
many years. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
structure of the vintage. Age this for 2–3 years. Epic
Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
94
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89
Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Les Cazetiers
Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). Tight
and structured, this wine is made from fruit sourced
from some of the poorest soil in Les Cazetiers. Dense
and tight, this has intense minerality and firm tannins allied to red berry flavors. This has great aging potential.
Martin Scott Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
Louis Jadot 2010 Clos Saint-Jacques
Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). Clos
Saint-Jacques is located in the north of Gevrey-Chambertin. This is a structured, powerful wine, with plenty
of firm tannins in its youth. It’s full of ripe red fruit, and
it needs to age for many years. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $180
93
Domaine des Varoilles 2010 Clos des
Varoilles Vieilles Vignes Premier Cru
(Gevrey-Chambertin). Clos des Varoilles is completely owned by Domaine des Varoilles. This wine is
rich and full in the mouth, and it combines opulence
with a big, solid structure. Certainly requiring age, this
is packed with ripe red-berry and black cherry flavors,
layered with dark, smoky tannins. Serge Doré Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $180
92
Albert Bichot 2010 Lavaux Saint-Jacques
Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). This
wine shows the structured side of Gevrey-Chambertin.
The vineyard is situated at the opening of a small side
valley, a location that allows the grapes to ripen slowly.
This is elegant and structured, and it’s full of solid tannins as well as cherry and red berry flavors. Age this for
7–8 years. A French Paradox. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
90
Frantin Les Murots (Gevrey-Chambertin).
Packed with ripe black- and red-fruit flavors, this wine is
dense and concentrated. The rich, generous fruit comes
with a complex minerally edge, and it shows the wood
influence in the form of a spice note. Age this at least six
years. A French Paradox. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
Jaffelin 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin. Showing the structure of Gevrey-Chambertin and the
ripe fruit of the 2009 vintage, this bottling is immediately opulent and seductive. With its red plum flavor and
balanced tannins and acids, this is a solid wine to drink
now. Epic Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
Albert Bichot 2010 Clos Prieur (GevreyChambertin). This is a smoky, fragrant wine
that offers dense fruit and firm tannins. It has the structure of a fine Gevrey and the concentration of the vintage. This is classic and worth aging for 4–5 years. A
French Paradox. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
88
Maison Champy 2010 Vieilles Vignes
(Gevrey-Chambertin). Grapes sourced from
60-year-old vines have given this structured wine firm
tannins and concentration. With its lean edge of acidity, this demands aging in order to bring out the reticent
fruitiness. Fine Vines. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: NA
chambolle-musigny
93
Albert Bichot 2010 Les Chabiots Pre
mier Cru (Chambolle-Musigny). This wine
shares some of the same opulence and velvety texture as
wines made from the adjacent Le Musigny grand cru.
It is dense, with a fine, ripe character that penetrates
deep into the heart of the tannins. The juicy red- and
dark-berry flavors give a hint of the richness to come. A
French Paradox. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
93
Domaine Faiveley 2010 La Combe
d’Orveau Premier Cru (Chambolle-Mu
signy). Wet earth and leaf notes are the overriding aromas at this stage. Yet it is also very fruity, with a jammy quality that balances the firm tannins. It hints at
the richness and style of Chambolle, but it shows the
powerful structure of neighboring Morey-Saint-Denis.
This needs several years of aging. Frederick Wildman
abv: 13.5%
Price: $190
95
90
92
94
90
91
Maison Roche de Bellene 2010 Cham
peaux Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin).
New wood aromas dominate this powerful wine, which
shows how much time it needs to age. It also has concentrated, juicy black-cherry and plum flavors and lovely acidity. This wine is made from fruit sourced from a
two-acre parcel in the Champeaux premier cru. Loosen
Bros. USA. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $92
Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Clos de Fon
teny Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin).
This wine has tender tannins that add feeling to the
swathes of ripe fruit. It’s rounder than many Gevreys,
Domaine des Varoilles 2010 Clos du
Meix des Ouches (Gevrey-Chambertin).
A single-vineyard wine, this is firmly structured and full
of perfumed fruit. New wood aging gives the red berry
fruit a smoky, toasty character. It’s a rich, concentrated
selection to age for five years or more. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $130
Jaffelin 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin. Power
ful and finely structured, this rich wine has
swathes of red plum and red berry flavors that balance
the core of solid tannins. It shows the ripe fruit and
Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Les Véroilles
(Chambolle-Musigny). The grapes to make
this rich, ripe wine were sourced from vines that were
planted in the 1980s. The vineyard, which is located
next to Bonnes Mares, yields wines that have an open,
generous style, plus elements of structure that lend aging potential. Ready to drink in two years, but it should
age well for many more. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
Joseph Drouhin 2010 Premier Cru
(Chambolle-Musigny). A blend of wines
from a number of Chambolle’s premier cru vineyards,
this is a rich and generous wine, with spice and red ber-
ry flavors, plus sweet tannins and a firm feel on the finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $90
this feel balanced already, but this is a wine for longterm aging. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $120
on the finish. With its tannins, this should age for many
years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $100
90
90
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Joseph Faiveley 2010 Chambolle-
Musigny. Smooth and rich, this generous selection is full of ripe fruit and balanced tannins. It shows
the elegant side of village wines. With delicious acidity
on the finish, this wine can be consumed soon, although
it will also age well for several years. Frederick Wildman
abv: 13%
Price: $95
87
Jaffelin 2010 Chambolle-Musigny. This
is a lightweight Chambolle that’s dominated by
red fruit and acidity. There is a bitter edge that comes
from the wood and the firm structure of the vintage.
However, with its attractive, juicy finish, it is already soft
enough to drink. Epic Wines. —R.V.
Price: $32
abv: 12.5%
85
Jaffelin 2009 Chambolle-Musigny. A tight
wine, this is dominated by acids, red fruits and
firm tannins, and it’s missing some of the richness of
the vintage. It has a closed feeling, and it needs some
months to develop, but this will always be dry. Epic
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $64
Vosne-Romanée
94
Frantin Les Malconsorts Premier Cru
(Vosne-Romanée). With vines that are located next
to La Tâche, this vineyard is great. Powerful and complex, this has the right depth of flavor. It is finely endowed with brooding tannins and black fruit flavors.
The texture and acidity on the finish promise this has
considerable aging potential. A French Paradox. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
94
Vignes (Vosne-Romanée). This is a new
venture by Nicolas Potel, whose family formerly owned
Domaine de la Pousse d’Or in Volnay. Made from fruit
sourced from 50-year-old vines, this wine is beautifully
structured, and it has firm tannins that pair with the fine
swaths of juicy flavors of red and black cherries. This is
meant for long-term aging. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $82
93
Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 Les Champs
Perdrix (Vosne-Romanée). Situated up high
on the slope behind the Vosne-Romanée grand crus,
Les Champs Perdrix has produced a wine that blends
structure with velvety fruit. Old vines have given this a
dense character and ripe, juicy flavors. Age this for 8–9
years. Martin Scott Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
93
Louis Jadot 2010 Les Suchots Premier
Cru (Vosne-Romanée). Powerful and structured, this wine is made from fruit sourced from a vineyard that is almost completely surrounded by some of
Burgundy’s greatest grand crus. The wine is juicy, and
its ripe fruits pour through the dense tannins, making
Frantin (Vosne-Romanée). This wine has
equal amounts of ripe berry fruit and structure. There is
a smoky character, wood and spice notes, balanced acidity and a leather-like touch to the texture. It is slowly
developing, and it has the potential to be rich. Age this
for 6–8 years. A French Paradox. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
89
Maison Champy 2010 Les Basse
Mezières (Vosne-Romanée). Aged for 18
months in wood, this wine has dense tannins, dark fruits
and serious structure. The berry fruit and acidity suggest that his wine has a generous and ripe side. This
needs at least four years of aging. Fine Vines. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: NA
nuits-st.-georges
93
Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine du Château
Gris Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). An
elegant wine, this has dark tannins and a sumptuous texture, which is smoothed by generous fruit and acidity.
On the finish, a spice note and a dry structure promise
that this will age well. A French Paradox. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
93
Domaine Faiveley 2010 Aux Chaignots
Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). Aux
Chaignots is a vineyard to the north of the town of Nuits-
St-Georges, which is not far from Vosne-Romanée. Its
location imparts firm, dominating tannins. It is dense,
with a determined structure. The acidity and fruit are
there, and they’re likely to show through over the next
4–5 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $110
93
Louis Jadot 2010 Les Boudots Premier
Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). This wine is solid
and tannic, with a foursquare structure. Under the dry
tannins, there are dense flavors of damson and plum.
Give this wine at least five years of aging. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $100
92
Domaine Faiveley 2010 Les Damodes
Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges). With its
firm tannins and structure, this is a wine that’s made
in the traditional Nuits-St.-Georges style. But it’s also
packed with ripe red fruit, and it has a jammy character
and an open feel. There is no doubt that this is a wine to
age for at least five years. Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $100
92
Domaine Faiveley 2010 Les Porêts-SaintGeorges Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georg
es). This wine is structured, but it has ripe red fruit
that cushions the firm tannins. It is dense, and it offers
a fine harmony of flavors as well as a burst of acidity
Jaffelin 2010 Nuits-St.-Georges. This wine
is chunky and firm, and its lively red fruit brings
freshness. With its dry core and touch of toast on the
finish, this could age for a couple of years. Epic Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $55
87
Jaffelin 2009 Nuits-St.-Georges. This wine
is solid, concentrated and tannic, and it has a
dark chocolate flavor from having aged in wood. It’s
likely to develop into a chunky wine over the next few
years. Epic Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $55
other côte de nuits
wines
89
Domaine de Bellene 2010 Vieilles Vignes
(Côtes de Nuits Villages). This has weight
and ripe plum and damson flavors that are now integrating into the tannins. It’s worth aging for a few years, but
it is already enjoyable. Loosen Bros. USA. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $58
87
Moillard 2010 Clos du Meix Trouhans
(Fixin). A firmly structured wine, this has a dry
character that’s underscored by red fruit and balancing
acidity. It needs to age for a few years to be at its best.
Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $42
savigny-lès-beaune
93
Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 La Dominode
Premier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). The
fruit used to make this wine was sourced from lowyielding vines, some of which are 100 years old. Concentrated, structured and dense, this offers a blackberry
flavor that is allied to the exquisite acidity. Age this for
eight years or more. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
92
Simon Bize 2010 Aux Grands Liards
(Savigny-lès-Beaune). The master of Savigny-lès-Beaune, Bize has produced a powerful, expressive wine from this small single vineyard. It has serious
structure, although the sumptuous black-fruit flavors
are already showing. Concentrated, rich and fruity, this
will age for at least five years. Becky Wasserman Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $46
90
Domaine de Bellene 2010 Les Hauts Jar
rons Premier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune).
This shows the structure of the vintage as well as delicious red-berry and spice flavors. Hints of wood aging
are apparent and need to integrate, so give this concentrated selection at least four years. Loosen Bros. USA.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $82
90
Domaine Pavelot 2010 Savigny-lèsBeaune. Pure and fruity, this wine has strucWineMag.com | 35
ture as well as a velvety texture. Opulent flavors of red
berries and a touch of earthiness are laced with soft tannins and acidity. Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
93
Domaine de Bellene 2010 Les Perrières
abv: 13.5%
Price: $56
nins. There is a sense of power in this black-currantand black-cherry-flavored selection. Keep it for at least
seven years. Fine Vines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
90
92
Domaine des Croix 2010 Pertuisots Pre
mier Cru (Beaune). Made from fruit sourced
from a small premier cru that’s located next to the famous Clos des Mouches, this is juicy, round and ripe,
with a great swathe of soft, fleshy tannins. Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $52
90
92
90
92
88
Vignes (Savigny-lès-Beaune). Savigny-lèsBeaune often shows the softer side of Pinot Noir. This
wine has juicy red-cherry and raspberry flavors that balance the gentle, dry tannins. The low-yielding old vines
from which the fruit was sourced give this selection extra concentration. This will benefit from medium-term
aging. Loosen Bros. USA. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $58
89
Albert Bichot 2010 Les Peuillets Premier
Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). Rich and broad,
this is packed with dense fruit and tannins. It is ripe
and full bodied, two qualities that are derived from the
warm vineyard. The finish shows juicy acidity. A French
Paradox. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: NA
89
Louis Jadot 2010 Clos des Guettes Pre
mier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). Fruity and
fragrant, this Savigny shows extra weight that makes it
serious and age worthy. The wine’s tannins are cushioned by the generous red fruits, which promise aging
potential. Wood and spice flavors emphasize the finish.
Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
87
Domaine Champy 2010 Aux Forches
(Savigny-lès-Beaune). This is firmly structured, and it shows the earthy fruit character of Savigny.
The red plum flavor is cut with acidity. It’s worth aging
for 2–3 years. Fine Vines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
Beaune
94
Domaine de Bellene 2010 Pertuisots Pre
mier Cru (Beaune). Structured, concentrated
and minerally, this wine’s tannins are strong, and they
accompany the juicy red-berry flavors. It has a dry core
and a dense texture, and it’s meant to age for at least
six years. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $92
abv: 13.5%
94
abv: 13%
Price: $109
93
Domaine de Bellene 2010 Clos du Roi
Premier Cru (Beaune). Ripe, full bodied and
jammy, this wine is already a delight to the senses. It is
rich, round and full of strawberry jelly flavor, layered
with new-wood-derived spice. The wood element needs
to become integrated, so keep this powerful bottling for
at least five years. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $92
Domaine Jessiaume 2010 Cent Vignes
Premier Cru (Beaune). Rich and smooth,
this wine’s structured tannins are fully integrated into
its juicy fruit. It’s a ripe bottling, and it shows a hint of
wood aging in the form of a smoky character. The acidity is intense, which perks up the berry fruit. This promises to age. USA Wine West. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $54
Jaffelin 2009 Sur les Grèves Clos SaintAnne Premier Cru (Beaune). Big, bold and
cuddly, this wine’s tannins are cushioned by the red berry fruit and attractive acidity. It has weight and a rich
feeling, and the dry edge offers the possibility of aging. This small clos is exclusive to Jaffelin. Epic Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $57
92
Joseph Drouhin 2010 Beaune Grèves
Premier Cru (Beaune). With its firmness
and juicy red-fruit flavor, this wine is delicious to drink
now, but it will also age for at least six years. This bottling demonstrates the structure and generosity of one
of Beaune’s most famous premier crus. Dreyfus, Ashby
& Co. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $74
91
Domaine Faiveley 2010 Clos de L’Ecu
Premier Cru (Beaune). This is a structured,
fruity wine that has ripe strawberry and red plum flavors. Its tannins are condensed at the core, and the
finish is marked by refreshing acidity. The vineyard is
wholly owned by Faiveley. Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. —R.V.
Price: $70
abv: 13%
91
Jaffelin 2010 Sur les Grèves Clos SaintAnne Premier Cru (Beaune). This has firm
tannins, and it demonstrates the potential of its juicy
fruit flavors. With its powerful structure, this is a slowly
developing selection that needs at least five years in a
cellar. Epic Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $57
91
Louis Jadot 2010 Theurons Premier Cru
(Beaune). Perfumed, rich yet soft, this is opulent Beaune at its best. It has acidity and a touch of tannin, but it’s the broad, ripe red-fruit flavors that dominate, which gives juiciness and vitality to this wine that
will age for several years. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $70
90
Domaine Champy 2010 Aux Cras Pre
mier Cru (Beaune). Rich ruby in color, this
firm, concentrated wine shows minerality and solid tan36 | wine enthusiast | april 2013
Domaine Champy 2010 Les Champs
Pimont Premier Cru (Beaune). A red cherry flavor and a rich texture show the ripe side of this
plump wine. It has tannins and a touch of bitter chocolate. It’s already full and generous, but it does need to
age for at least six years. Fine Vines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
Jaffelin 2010 Les Cent Vignes Premier
Cru (Beaune). Rich, round and complex, this
is full of ripe red-berry flavors. The acidity drives the
solid tannins and firm structure. The wine has the approachability of Beaune, but it can also be aged for 4–5
years. Epic Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
Albert Bichot 2010 Clos de l’Ermitage
(Beaune). There is a touch of minerality in this
wine as well as a dry edge and ripe red-fruit flavors that
are already attractive. It should be aged at least three
years. A French Paradox. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
87
Domaine Champy 2010 Vieilles Vignes
(Beaune). While this shows the concentration
of the vines that were planted in the 1940s, it also has
a tight, lean quality and considerable acidity. Its fruit is
still subdued by the structure, and it needs 3–4 years to
become round. Fine Vines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
pommard
91
Rugiens Premier Cru (Pommard). Rugiens,
which is named after its red soil, is located in the south
of Pommard. Dense, structured and powerful, this is a
brooding wine that has concentrated tannins and fruit
that is offset by a tight line of acidity. This is a wine that
demands aging. A French Paradox. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
91
Cru (Pommard). For full review see page 7.
abv: 13%
Price: $63
89
Domaine A. Machard de Gramont 2010
Clos Blanc Premier Cru (Pommard). This
is a hard-edged wine, a typical trait of young Pommard.
It has a firm, dry and tannic character, and the ripe, generous fruit sits underneath. Wait for at least five years
for this wine to be ready. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $61
88
Domaine Champy 2010 Pommard. Made
from grapes that were sourced from two parcels,
this Pommard is firmly structured, and it shows fine redfruit flavers that sit under the dark, dense tannins. It has
a ripe yet minerally texture. Fine Vines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
88
Louis Jadot 2010 Pommard. A dense, firm
selection, this has layers of red fruits and acids
that help to give the wine’s skeleton some flesh. This is
likely to develop into a rich, but always firm, wine. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $65
89
volnay
88
93
Louis Jadot 2010 Santenots Premier Cru
(Volnay). Santenots, like most premier crus,
is located halfway down the slope. This is structured,
yet it remains ripe and fruity, and it shows off the voluptuous texture that’s characteristic of Volnay. There is
fine balance between the acidity and fruit, and the dry
core promises aging potential. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $70
92
Vignes (Volnay). A sweet cherry aroma sets
the scene for this fruity, firmly structured wine. The
juicy red-berry fruit is balanced by a smoky tannic character. This will be a pleasure to drink in a year, and it can
also age longer. Loosen Bros. USA. —R.V.
Price: $82
abv: 13%
91
Domaine Champy 2010 Les Taillepieds
Premier Cru (Volnay). An elegant wine, this
is full of ripe black-fruit flavors, and it has a rich, velvety texture. The acidity and minerality give this wine
a sense of structure that promises good aging potential.
Fine Vines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
91
Domaine Jessiaume 2010 Brouillards
Premier Cru (Volnay). Rich and full, this
wine shows some sense of structure. It has considerable
acidity and flavors of cherry and red currant. With the
dry tannins coming through on the finish, it will need
some years to soften. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $66
91
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Mitans Premier Cru
(Volnay). Mitans is one of the lesser-known
premier crus in Volnay, and it has created a wine that
shows the voluptuousness of Volnay. It has a smoky
character, and it’s laced with acidity and bright red fruit.
It will benefit from 3–4 years of aging. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13%
90
Les Santenots Premier Cru (Volnay). Typical of Volnay, this wine has a velvety character that surrounds the firm tannins. The acidity is palpable through
the warm red-berry flavors and firm edge. It is certainly
a wine for aging, although it is also likely to be drinkable
in 2–3 years. A French Paradox. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
90
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Volnay. This is an ele
gant, rich and round Volnay, with a red plum flavor and juicy acidity. With its fruitiness, this is already
drinkable, although the tannic core does promise medium-term aging. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $65
Cru (Volnay). This full-bodied wine demonstrates the jammy side of Volnay. It is rich and dense,
and it has a delicious berry flavor. In the process of all
this generosity, the tannins are lost, so drink it over the
next few years. Luxe Vintages. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $79
Jaffelin 2009 Volnay. Earthy, soft and ripe,
this wine shows the richness of the vintage. It is
full of red plum and red jelly flavors, and the tannins are
dusty in the background. The acidity holds it all together, and the finish is juicy and fruity. Epic Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $42
87
Domaine Champy 2010 Volnay. Ripe and
round, this has a strawberry flavor that is surrounded by dense tannins. It shows a fine line of fresh
acidity, and it is ready to drink, although it will age for
several years. Fine Vines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
santenay
91
David Moreau 2010 Clos Rousseau Pre
mier Cru (Santenay). This wine is perfumed,
with delicious notes of plum and spice that are balanced
by light tannins and fine, elegant acids. A touch of mineral marks the finish. Becky Wasserman Selections.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
90
Domaine Jessiaume 2010 Gravières Pre
mier Cru (Santenay). This is a smooth and
polished wine, with herb and new wood aromas. It has
juicy red-berry flavors, and the tannins push forward.
Structured, with intense acidity, this is ready to age for
at least 5–6 years. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $47
89
David Moreau 2010 Cuvée S (Santenay).
Named after David Moreau’s mother, Simone,
this old-vine wine is concentrated, with sweet-tasting
fruit and spicy tannins. The tight acidity gives a delicious lift to the red berry flavors. Becky Wasserman Selections. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $30
89
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Santenay. With a proportion of premier cru grapes in the blend, this
wine has weight and structure as well as the ripe redfruit flavors that are typical of Santenay. It’s richly textured and full in the mouth. The finish is fruity and soft.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
87
Albert Bichot 2010 Les Charmes (San
tenay). A fruity wine, this has exuberant redberry flavors that suggest this wine can be consumed
now. Gentle tannins balance the fine acidity and rich,
warm texture. A French Paradox. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
other côte de
beaune
93
Domaine Bruno Clair 2010 En la rue de
Vergy (Morey-Saint-Denis). The vines from
this vineyard help to create big, concentrated wines that
are tannic and dense. It is dark and firm, and the damson skin flavor adds to the sense of power. Age this for
6–8 years. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
93
Domaine Pavelot 2010 Les Vergelesses
Premier Cru (Pernand-Vergelesses). This
is a delicate, elegant wine, with flavors of red berries
and currants. Notes of spice and undergrowth are followed by mouth-watering acidity. Drink this after 5–6
years. Becky Wasserman Selections. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $38
92
Louis Jadot 2010 Clos de la Croix de
Pierre Premier Cru (Pernand-Vergeless
es). The Clos de la Croix de Pierre forms part of the
En Caradeux premier cru, and it creates poised wines.
This is the red partner to a white also produced by Louis
Jadot, and it displays juicy red fruit, layered with firm
tannins. Drinkable now, but also capable of aging for
five years. Kobrand. —R.V.
Price: $45
abv: 13.5%
91
Albert Bichot 2010 Clos des Maréchaudes
Premier Cru (Aloxe-Corton). This Bichot
monopole has produced a round wine that’s full of attractive plum flavor. It’s backbone is buried in the sumptuous texture. Age this for at least four years. A French
Paradox. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
88
Les Morais (Aloxe-Corton). Wood aging has
imparted a slight bitterness to the ripe fruit. The juicy
red-cherry flavor is melded into the firm tannins, and
the finish is bright and round. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $43
87
Les Beaumonts (Chorey-lès-Beaune).
Ripe and fruity, this is a round, soft wine that shows the
jammy character of Pinot Noir. It has a straight line of
acidity that cuts through the fruit, which makes for an
attractive, light finish. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
87
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Chassagne-Mon
trachet. In the past, there was much more red
wine than white wine produced in Chassagne-Montrachet. This firm, tannic wine, with its austere fruit, shows
a similarity to Pommard. This is a wine that needs to
age for over several years in order for it to soften and
become round, and for the red berry fruit to surface.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
86
Domaine Champy 2010 Chorey-lèsBeaune. This underrated village, which is located next to Savigny-lès-Beaune, has produced an attractive, fruity wine that has a fine structure, a red berry
WineMag.com | 37
flavor and a twist of acidity on the finish. Keep this for
2–3 years. Fine Vines. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
tion to the fruit. Ready to drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
côte chalonnaise
85
89
Jaffelin 2009 Les Grandes Vignes Pre
mier Cru (Givry). Although this has a rustic
edge, this is an attractive, ripe and red-fruited wine. It
has a rich, jammy quality that combines with the dry
tannins. The finish is dense and firm. Enjoy this now, or
wait for three years. Epic Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
88
Jaffelin 2010 Les Grandes Vignes Pre
mier Cru (Givry). Givry, which is located
in the Côte Chalonnaise, produces wines that have
warmth and a firm edge. This wine fits the style with
its juicy red fruits, ripe tannins and solid, chunky finish.
This is not for aging, so drink now. Epic Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
86
Albert Bichot 2010 Domaine Adélie (Mer
curey). Soft and ripe, this has light tannins, red
berry fruit and a round texture. It has a touch of firmness, acidity and good density. Drink now, or age it for
2–3 years. A French Paradox. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
other bourgogne
87
Vignes Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). Nicolas
Potel’s entry-level Burgundy is an elegant, fruity wine,
with soft tannins, rich strawberry fruit and a ripe feel. It
is ready to drink. Loosen Bros. USA. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
87
Vignerons de Bel Air 2011 Grande QV
Gamay (Coteaux Bourguignons). Soft and
lightly smoky, round and ripe, this wine has flavors of
black currant and blueberry, plus a touch of wood and
gentle acidity. Coteaux Bourguignons is the new appellation that replaces the rather derogatory-sounding
Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire. G.L. Steinke Associates
Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
85
Albert Bichot 2010 Secret de Famille Pi
not Noir (Bourgogne). This is a firm wine,
but it has ripe red fruit. It shows an attractive touch of
smoke, and there is fine balance between the firm tannins and fragrant fruit. Drink now. A French Paradox.
—R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
85
Domaine Jessiaume 2010 Pinot Noir
(Bourgogne). A red-berry-flavored wine, this
has juicy acidity and a light touch of tannins. It’s full of
fresh fruit flavors, and the finish shows a red-cherry-like
crispness. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
85
Joseph Faiveley 2010 Pinot Noir (Bour
gogne). Light and fruity, this wine has red fruit
and a tannic edge, and bright acidity that gives defini-
Olivier Leflaive 2010 Cuvée Margot Pinot
Noir (Bourgogne). Made from fruit sourced
in the Côte de Beaune, this is a soft, fruity wine, with
approachable red berry fruit. It is ripe, full bodied and
just lightly tannic. The acidity gives the finish a clean
cut. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $28
84
Jaffelin 2010 Les Chapitres de Jaffelin
Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). High acidity makes
this wine taste bright, fruity and light. There is only a
hint of dry tannin to the red currant flavor. Epic Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $23
84
Maison Champy 2010 Signature Pi
not Noir (Bourgogne). This is a tight wine,
with as much acidity as fruit. The red berry flavor cuts
through the crisp texture, which hints at tannins. Fine
Vines. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: NA
portugal
Douro
92
Ramos-Pinto 2010 Duas Quintas Reserva
(Douro). Duas Quintas Reserva is now established as one of the benchmark wines in the Douro.
This dark-colored effort has ripe, concentrated dark
berry and herb flavors and a fine sense of tannic structure from wood aging. There’s a strong sense of minerality as well, giving this richness and aging potential.
Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
92
Wines & Winemakers 2008 Aguia Mou
ra Em Vinhas Velhas Reserva (Douro). A
powerful and concentrated wine, this shows the region’s
dark and tannic side. The black plum and juicy blackcurrant flavors shine, and wood aging has smoothed the
palate, which makes it feel dense and fully mature. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $15
abv: 14%
91
Caves Velhas 2009 Alma Grande Reser
va Touriga Nacional (Douro). For full review see page 6.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
90
Wines & Winemakers 2010 Andrez
Reserva (Douro). Big and black-colored, this
is a blockbuster in both looks and mouthfeel. It’s dense,
concentrated and packed with juicy fruit that’s touched
by a note of pepper due to the alcohol. It needs a few
years to age, although it will always be an in-your-face
wine. Amara Wines LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
89
Churchill’s 2010 Churchill Estates (Dou
ro). Equally well known for its Ports, Churchill’s
makes this red wine from fruit that’s sourced from its
own vineyards. It has firm tannins and dark plum fruit,
which is just waiting to break out beyond the concentrated, dry core. Give it 3–4 years. Frederick Wildman
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
89
Wines & Winemakers 2011 Azul Portu
gal (Douro). This rich wine shows ripe fruit
and a polished, smooth mouthfeel. The blackberry flavor dominates the firm tannins, which gives the palate
a juicy quality. It reveals fine depth of flavor, minerality
and aging potential. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
88
Ramos-Pinto 2010 Duas Quintas (Dou
ro). Red fruits are what drive this easy, fragrant
wine. The tannins play a supporting role, which gives
the berry flavors structure. A blend from two Douro estates, this attractive selection will be ready to drink in a
year. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
84
Wines & Winemakers 2011 Colleja (Dou
ro). This wine has earthy aromas, and it’s
densely packed with dark chocolate and black plum flavors. The dense tannins still dominate, so give it a few
months. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
Dão
91
Casa da Passarela 2008 Vinhas Velhas
(Dão). The extra concentration of low-yielding
old vines is apparent in this dark, brooding wine. The
minerally texture and firm tannins are all destined for
long-term aging. Made from fruit that’s sourced from
the foothills of Portugal’s highest mountains, this has a
distinctly structured and dense finish. M Imports, LLC.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
90
Casa da Passarela 2009 Reserva (Dão).
Rich and concentrated, this has great depth of
flavor, which is sustained by wood influence. With its
powerful structure and flavors of dark plum skins and
ripe berries, it is certainly a wine for aging at least 4–5
years. M Imports, LLC. —R.V.
Price: $20
abv: 13.5%
87
Casa da Passarela 2009 Colheita (Dão).
A structured wine, this reflects the granite soil
of the Dão. Fruit from seven vineyards is blended to
make this firm, tannin- and black-currant-driven selection. Perfumes from the Touriga Nacional lend lift to
the finish. M Imports, LLC. Best Buy.—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
Bairrada
92
Campolargo 2009 Rol de Coisas Anti
gas (Bairrada). A blend of five grapes, this is
a firm, tannic and age-worthy wine. Even the high alcohol doesn’t show on the rich, well-balanced palate. It’s
full of plum and black currant flavors, and wood-derived
flavors show on the finish. M Imports, LLC. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $20
91
Wines & Winemakers 2008 Azul Portu
gal (Bairrada). Made from fruit that’s sourced
from the Buçaco Mountains in the east of Bairrada, this
wine is rich and elegant, and its juicy fruit provides a
counterbalance to the structure. With its youthful fruitiness, this is worth aging for another 2–3 years. Iberia
Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
90
Campolargo 2009 Vinha do Putto (Bair
rada). A new brand from Campolargo, this is
firmly tannic, and it shows off the Baga grape. It needs
several years of aging. Saraiva Enterprises. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $9
89
Campolargo 2009 Valdazar (Bairrada).
Rich, full bodied and smooth, this wine is driven by its black fruits and dark tannins. Acidity lines the
fruitiness, which gives a juicy edge to the solid texture.
It shows potential, so keep it for at least four years. M
Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
88
Campolargo 2010 Tinto Baga (Bairrada).
Baga can be a shock to the palate because of its
tannins. But this wine seems to have fruitiness to offset
the intense, dry texture. It shows black currant and herb
flavors, which come laden with spice on the finish. M
Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
88
Campolargo 2008 Diga? Tinto (Bairrada).
This is full of ripe plum and black cherry flavors that are richly textured and spiced. It has an ele
gant side, which makes for a round, full-bodied finish,
and it has the potential to age well. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
85
Campolargo 2009 Entre dos Santos (Ba
irrada). A herbal, dense and tannic wine, this
has black currant fruit that has a minerally texture. It
has a dry quality, but it should soften. Tri-Vin Imports.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $10
Tejo
92
Quinta do Casal Monteiro 2009 Forma de
Arte Reserva (Tejo). For full review see page
10. Best Buy.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
91
Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima 2009 Grande
Escolha Alfrocheiro (Tejo). More commonly found in the Dão region to the north, the Alfrocheiro
grape seems to have found a good home in the sandy
soils of Lagoalva de Cima. Rich, fruity and age worthy,
this has dusty tannins and a texture that hints of mineral.
Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
91
Wines & Winemakers 2010 Catapereiro
Escolha (Tejo). The earthy aromas of Castelão
show strongly. Complex, rich and juicy, this wine’s tannins and black fruits vie amicably for dominance, and
they promise good aging. It has a spice note and a firm
structure, with a fleshy character. Iberia Wine & Spirits
LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
90
Caves Velhas 2009 Cabeça de Toiro
Reserva
Touriga
Nacional-Castelão
(Tejo). For full review see page 10. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
89
Quinta do Casal Monteiro 2009 Estate
Bottled Vinho Tinto (Tejo). For full review
see page 10. Best Buy.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
88
Casal do Conde 2011 Reserva (Tejo). A
blend of Touriga Nacional and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a firm, tannic wine, with juicy fruit and
black-currant-like acidity that lends freshness. Wood
influence shows subtly through the forward fruitiness.
Age this three years or more. Value Vines LLC. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12.5%
concentration. Age this for 4–5 years. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $35
91
Terra d’Alter 2010 Telhas (Alentejano). A
red-fruited wine, this is fragrant of wood and
strawberries. The palate has a smoky, wood-laden character, a ripe plum flavor and a fine line of acidity. A fresh
red-currant note marks the finish. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $30
86
Julian Reynolds 2009 Tinto Real (Alen
tejano). There is a distinct barnyard aroma to
this wine. The palate seems more clean, and it offers
firm, red berry fruits and tannins. A blend of Trincadeira, Aragones and Alicante Bouschet, this is fruity and
structured. Independence Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
white wines
86
89
85
89
84
88
Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima 2010 Espiri
to Tinto (Tejo). This is a herb-scented wine,
and the juicy Castelão component balances the firm
tannins of the Touriga Nacional. It’s full of ripe red-
berry flavors, with a fine swath of sweet tannins and acids. Ready to drink. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
Casal do Conde 2011 Terras do Vale
(Tejo). This fruity wine has wood flavors that
structure the bright red-berry note. It’s an upfront wine,
and it has a touch of minerality that gives depth to the
tannins. Age this for 2–3 years. Value Vines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Herdade dos Templários 2010 Colheita
Seleccionada (Tejo). There is a curious petrol aroma to this wine. Even so, the red berry flavor is
attractive and fresh, and the acidity is lean. USA Wine
West. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
84
Quinta da Ribeirinha 2009 Vale de Lobos
(Tejo). An upfront, strawberry-flavored wine,
this is ripe and immediately fruity. There are enough
tannins to hold the palate together, but it is ready to
drink now. Abreu Imports LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
83
Herdade dos Templários 2010 Vale das
Donas (Tejo). Flavors of beetroot and juicy
fruit are juxtaposed in this structured yet fruity wine.
It has some bitterness and a hint of wood, and there is
intense acidity on the finish. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
Alentejano
92
Terra d’Alter 2010 Outeiro (Alentejano).
A firm, structured wine, this is packed with dry
tannins as well as rich blackberry and plum flavors. It’s
solid, chunky and full bodied, and it offers power and
Casa da Passarela 2011 Branco (Dão).
This rich selection is made from the Dão’s own
white grape, Encruzado. It is a smooth, lime- and orange-flavored wine that’s touched by toast and lifted by
acidity. It’s food-friendly, textured and layered with fruit
and light tannins. M Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
Wines & Winemakers 2011 Catapereiro
Escolha (Tejo). A typical local blend of Arinto, Fernão Pires and Chardonnay, this is smooth, ripe
and creamy. It has touches of herb, honey and pineapple, which are laced together by citrusy acidity. The finish is soft. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
Campolargo 2010 Diga? Branco (Bairra
da). This ripe, fruity wine has a hint of wood,
fine acidity, a soft, creamy texture and an attractive burst
of lime juice flavor. The finish is warm and rich, marked
by good acidity. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
88
Ramos-Pinto 2011 Duas Quintas Reser
va Branco (Douro). Ramos-Pinto’s two estates of Bons Aires and Ervamoira provide the grapes
for this fruity, smooth-textured white wine. While this
selection reflects the warmth of the Douro, it also shows
great citrusy freshness and a crisp finish. Ready to drink.
—R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12.5%
87
Campolargo 2010 Branco Barrica (Bair
rada). While this is aged in barrel, the wood
influence doesn’t quite work for Arinto, which is a lively,
fruity varietal. The result is a wine that is laden with
toast and textured with vanilla, and it comes with an
edge of bitter lemon. The wood will soften, but it will
always be present. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
87
Quinta da Alorna 2011 Portal da Aguia
(Tejo). A blend of Fernão Pires and Moscatel, this is fresh, crisp and perfumed. It’s an apéritif-like
WineMag.com | 39
wine, with light acidity and a creamy, smooth texture.
Regal Wine Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
ity. The finish hints at honey, and it has a crisp texture.
Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $28/375 ml
86
Port
86
Ramos-Pinto NV RP30 Tawny 30 Years
Port. Deep gold in color, this is a finely perfumed, toffee-rich wine, with a tannic edge, wood flavor, intense acidity and great concentration. It’s a great
example of aged tawny, and it’s ready to drink now. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $105
Julian Reynolds 2011 Branco Real (Alen
tejano). Arinto and Antão Vaz are blended to
create this crisp, bright wine. It also shows a creamy
side, and it offers touches of vanilla, quince and pear.
Ready to drink. Independence Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Quinta da Ribeirinha 2010 Vale de Lobos
Branco (Tejo). Smooth and soft, this is a ripe,
white-peach-flavored wine. It has an attractive tang of
orange zest and a note of almond, and its bright acidity adds balance. With its fruitiness, it’s ready to drink,
but it will mature over 2–3 years. Abreu Imports LLC.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
85
Herdade dos Templários 2011 Vale das
Donas Branco (Tejo). A fruity, fresh and
crisp wine, this is given some weight by the inclusion
of Chardonnay in the blend. It has an attractive texture,
and the lemon and grapefruit flavors dominate. USA
Wine West. —R.V.
Price: $10
abv: 13%
85
Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima 2011 Espiri
to Branco (Tejo). A blend of five grapes, including Sauvignon Blanc, this is a crisp, kiwi- and grapefruit-flavored wine. It is bright, fruity and tangy, and it
has a soft, cantaloupe-tasting finish. Ready to drink.
Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
84
Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2011
Bridão (Tejo). This is a smooth, apricot- and
pear-flavored wine that has attractive acidity. It’s fresh,
fruity and immediately drinkable as an apéritif or with
seafood. Wine Enterprises LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
84
Quinta de Lourosa 2011 Vinho Verde.
This is a fruity, off-dry Vinho Verde, with a soft
apple flavor and balanced acidity. A blend of Arinto and
Loureiro, this will make for a delicious apéritif. Wine
Adventures Inc. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $NA
dessert wines
88
Quinta do Cavalinho NV Sellium Mosca
tel (Portugal). This has flavors that are reminiscent of the Moscatels from Setúbal. It’s a rich wine
that shows a hint of the spirit element, but the ripe flavors of toffee and raisin ice cream are more prominent.
Drink now. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 18%
Price: $20
88
Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima 2011 Late
Harvest (Tejo). The Riesling and Gewürztraminer grapes used to make this Alsace-like blend were
harvested late to allow for concentrated sweetness. It
has a perfumed character and a steely edge of acid-
93
92
Ramos-Pinto NV RP20 Quinta do Bom
Retiro Tawny 20 Years Port. At 20 years,
aged tawnies bear fruit and concentrated wood flavors,
plus dry acidity. This is rich and poised, and it has a fine,
full finish. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $70
90
Ramos-Pinto 2008 Late Bottled Vintage
Port. This LBV could be aged. It has a real
youthful feel, and its ripe black-fruit flavors are full
of complex sweetness and edged with tannins. It has
weight, richness and a generous mouthfeel. Maisons
Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $25
86
Vini 2011 Veni Vidi Vici Pinot Noir (Thra
cian Valley). Ripe red-cherry and sweet pastry notes are fragrant on this bright, easy-drinking Pinot
Noir. On the finish, hints of smoke and ash add savory
tones that would be pleasant alongside duck- or porkbased dishes. Bulgarian Master Vintners. Best Buy.
—A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
85
Vini 2011 Veni Vidi Vici Pinot Noir-Syrah
Rosé (Bulgaria). Notes of ripe red berries are
featured on the nose of this off-dry rosé, alongside hints
of dusty mineral and tomato water. It’s straightforward
on the palate, with a cheery, slightly candied berry flavor, but it finishes clean with brisk acidity. Bulgarian
Master Vintners. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
85
Vini 2011 Veni Vidi Vici Sauvignon Blanc
(Thracian Valley). Fragrant of baked apple
and vanilla spice, this Bulgarian Sauvignon Blanc is just
a shade off dry. It offers straightforward but easy-drinking apple and flower flavors, and the bright acidity lends
a clean, brisk finish. Bulgarian Master Vintners. Best
Buy. —A.I.
Price: $9
abv: 12.5%
romania
89
87
86
Ramos-Pinto NV Adriano Reserva White
Port. Gold in color, this wine deftly balances
the sweetness of the orange marmalade flavor with the
dry edge that comes from the spirit and the slight tannic character. Ready to drink. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $20
86
86
86
other europe
85
Ramos-Pinto NV RP10 Quinta da Erva
moira Tawny 10 Years Port. Ervamoira, one
of the most remote of the Douro estates, produces this
full, fruity 10-year-old tawny. It’s already drinkable, and
it offers almond, raisin and treacle flavors that are lifted
by the acids. Drink now. Maisons Marques & Domaines
USA. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $40
Ramos-Pinto NV Collector Reserva Port.
Full, rich and on the dry side, this is loaded with
ripe berry flavors, and it has a core of firm tannins and
a touch of acidity. It finishes dry. Maisons Marques &
Domaines USA. —R.V.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $20
bulgaria
87
Vini 2011 Veni Vidi Vici Chardonnay
(Thracian Valley). Aromatic, with notes of orange blossom and lemon zest, this dry, bracing Chardonnay boasts surprising depth and minerality. Vibrant
with lemony acidity, it finishes briskly, with a hint of
lime-zest-like astringency. Bulgarian Master Vintners.
Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
Cramele Recas 2011 Dreamfish Caber
net Sauvignon (Viile Timişului). Cramele
Recas’s Dreamfish series of international varieties consistently offers bang for your buck, and this vintage of
Cabernet Sauvignon is no exception. Rich, full bodied
and easy drinking, this offers flavors of bright black
cherry and berry, framed by notes of vanilla, toast and
wet graphite. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 14%
Price: $7
Cramele Recas 2011 Dreambird Mosca
to (Recas). Redolent of ripe red berries and
cherry blossoms, this semisweet Moscato has a delicate,
sugar-laced quality, balanced by bright citrus and apple
flavors. Crisp in acidity, it’s easy drinking and refreshing
on the finish. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $7
Cramele Recas 2011 Dreambird Pinot
Noir (Viile Timişului). The Dreambird Pinot
Noir is cheerful and bright, and has a vivid cherry-pie
flavor that’s laced with vanilla and toasted wood notes.
Brisk acidity leads to the crisp, refreshing finish. Tri-Vin
Imports. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $7
Cramele Recas 2011 Dreamfish Sauvi
gnon Blanc (Recas). Sweet flower and cherry aromas perfume this dry, berry-tinged Sauvignon
Blanc. It’s refreshing and quaffable, and it offers bright
acidity and just a hint of green that lingers on the finish.
Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $7
hungary
94
Királyudvar 2007 Cuvée Ilona (Tokaj).
Bursting with flower and tropical fruit aromas,
the nose on this Tokaj is intoxicating. Luxurious and
creamy on the palate, it offers penetrating honey and
stone fruit flavors, intensified by prickles of sea salt,
mineral and tea leaf astringency. Rare Wine Company.
—A.I.
abv: 10%
Price: $50/500 ml
91
Királyudvar 2009 Pezsgo Henye Brut (To
kaj). Hints of sweet pastry and rising bread entice on this refreshing, dry, yet honeyed sparkling wine
made from Tokaj grape varieties. It’s brisk on the palate,
with a clean cut, but it has all of the waxy, floral qualities of a sweet Tokaj wine. Fantastic now, but it could
be even more glorious with five more years in the cellar.
Rare Wine Company. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
88
Château Hellha 2007 5 Puttonyos Aszú
(Tokaji). Intensely aromatic, this has scents of
honey, caramel and dried savory herbs. It is a penetrating Tokaj that has a herbaceous tone. The palate is rich
and creamy, and it offers characteristic flavors of tropical fruit, beeswax and flower, swathed by hints of lavender and sage. Bob Bofman Selections. —A.I.
Price: $30/500 ml
abv: 10.5%
88
Királyudvar 2010 Sec Furmint (Tokaj).
Aromatic of honeysuckle, fresh orange peel
and rye, this dry Tokaj has all the waxy, honeyed characteristics of its sweet counterparts. This is brisk, with
intense, lemony acidity and rippling minerality. Rare
Wine Company. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
87
Château Hellha 2002 3 Puttonyos Aszú
(Tokaji). This off-dry, honeyed Tokaj wine has a
penetrating minerality that extends from start to finish,
with aromas of honeysuckle and fresh tangerine skin.
Slightly dusty on the palate, it shows hints of dried herb
and crushed stone, and it finishes on a delicate flower
tone. Bob Bofman Selections. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $20/500 ml
85
Schloss Koblenz 2011 Sweet Red Blau
fränkisch (Mátra). Delicate in scent, this has
aromas of bright cherry and violet. This semisweet Blaufränkisch bursts on the palate with fresh red-cherry and
strawberry flavors. Juicy and cheerful, it finishes with a
hint of caramelized sugar. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $12
slovenia
92
Movia 2007 Veliko White (Brda). This has
ebullient aromas of cherry blossom, grapefruit
and yuzu peel. Structurally complex, this has concentrated flavors of sour plum and pink grapefruit. It’s brisk
with acidity, and there’s a lavish minerality that lingers
long on the finish. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
91
Movia 2004 Veliko Red (Brda). Notes of
mint and thyme add savory tones to bright,
pristine flavors of cassis and black cherry in this blend
of Merlot, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. Structured and full bodied, this has warm oak tones and striking acidity. It’s delicious now, but it should continue to
develop over the next five years. Domaine Select Wine
Estates. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
90
Movia 2010 Ribolla (Brda). Perfumed with
scents of dried flowers, figs, cherries and tea,
this round, voluptuous Ribolla is luscious and fruity. It’s
dry, with a tea-leaf astringency that builds on the palate, and it finishes with a flurry of rose petals and caramelized honey flavors. Domaine Select Wine Estates.
—A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
90
Movia 2008 Pinot Grigio (Brda). Notes of
musk, baked apple, citrus and spice are warm
and mysterious on the nose of this penetrating Slovenian Pinot Grigio. Intense and fruity on the palate, this
has ripe apple and pear flavors, with layers of honey,
dark flower, caramel and tea that add complexity. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
90
Movia 2007 Modri Ceglo Pinot Noir
(Brda). Like all of Movia’s red wines, the Modri Ceglo is herbaceous on the nose and palate, with
hints of menthol and bramble adding complexity to the
crisp red-fruit flavors. The palate is ripe, silken and elegantly structured, with brisk acidity and whispers of
graphite, soy and brine that linger long on the finish.
Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
89
Movia 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Brda).
Ripe and rich in texture, this powerful Slovenian Cabernet balances a bold black-cherry flavor with
loads of savory dried herb, graphite and reverberating
acidity. There’s a nervous quality about this wine that
could smooth out with a good decant, or a few more
years in a cellar. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $38
88
Movia 2010 Sauvignon (Brda). Intensely
green and herbal on the nose, this has penetrating flavors of gooseberry, lavender, mint and grass.
This Sauvignon Blanc, which was aged for two years in
French barrique, is textural, with its hints of green-tealike tannin. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
croatia
90
Grgić Vina 2008 Plavac Mali (Dingač).
abv: 15.4%
Price: $38
89
Grgić Vina 2010 Pošip (Korčula). Fresh
and fragrant, this offers notes of apple, vanilla
spice and lemon rind on the nose and palate. The palate of this Croatian white feels surprisingly voluptuous.
Dry in style, with penetrating fruit flavors, this has lavish
minerality on the midpalate that lends the finish a brisk,
crisp feel. Grgich Hills Estate. —A.I.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $28
morocco
red wine
86
Bernard Magrez 2010 Kahina Syrah-Gre
nache (Guerrouane). This powerful blend of
Moroccan Syrah and Grenache is intense and fruity, and
it bears ripe black-cherry, plum and blackberry flavors,
tinged with chocolate, cherry cordial and granite notes.
Soft tannins on the midpalate add texture to this dense,
richly structured wine. MHW, Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 15%
Price: $30
new zealand
pinot noir
93
Felton Road 2010 Calvert Pinot Noir
(Central Otago). Unusual for New Zealand
Pinot Noir, this full-bodied bottling is structured firmly
enough to warrant 2–3 years of cellaring. Earthy, savory
notes that include roasted meat and coffee intertwine
with black cherry and beetroot, while the tannins turn
dusty on the finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
92
Felton Road 2010 Block 3 Pinot Noir
(Central Otago). Winemaker Blair Walter has
dialed up the intensity in this powerfully concentrated
bottling, which packs ample black-cherry fruit and sturdy notes of hickory smoke, cured meat and dark coffee. Despite the wine’s considerable weight, the tannins
are supple enough to make it approachable now. Wilson
Daniels Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $79
92
Felton Road 2010 Block 5 Pinot Noir
(Central Otago). Already complex, this luscious blend of fruity and savory nuances features black
cherries and smoked meat notes that are wrapped in a
silky glove of dusty tannins. It’s approachable now, but
it should age easily for another 5–7 years. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
92
Felton Road 2010 Cornish Point Pinot
Noir (Central Otago). More perfumed and
floral than the other 2010 Pinot Noirs from Felton
Road, the Cornish Point is a pretty, slightly delicate
wine that nevertheless doesn’t lack for intensity. It’s medium in weight, with creamy tannins that finish like silk.
Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $63
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The Crater Rim 2011 Bendigo Terrace
Pinot Noir (Central Otago). Bendigo is a
warm subregion of Central Otago, and this wine shows
the plush, creamy texture of superripe fruit. The wine
is smoky and briary, marrying black cherry and mocha
notes in harmonious complexity, and ending lush and
long. Drink it now and over the next few years. Epicurean Wines. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
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Cobblestone 2010 Te Muna Pinot Noir
(Martinborough). The Te Muna Road section
of Martinborough is the same region exploited by Craggy Range and Escarpment, so Cobblestone’s American
owners are in good company. Only the second release of
this wine, the 2010 is a plush, sexy example, featuring
a combination of fruity and savory components. Black
cherry fruit pushes through complex notes of smoke,
sous bois and shiitake mushrooms. Drink now–2020.
Cobblestone Vineyards. —J.C.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $50
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Greywacke 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). Former Cloudy Bay winemaker Kevin
Judd has produced a moderately full-bodied, lush Pinot
Noir under his own label. Intense cherry-berry fruit is
framed by smoky, spicy oak that ends on notes of clove
and hickory. Drink it over the next several years. Old
Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $39
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Mud House 2010 Golden Terraces Vine
yard Pinot Noir (Central Otago). Made
from fruit that was sourced from Central Otago’s Bendigo subregion, this is a ripe and concentrated wine that
still manages to show a surprising degree of elegance
on the finish. Black cherry fruit is framed by maple syrup and brown sugar timbering. The wine seems chunky
and full at first, but it smooths out and turns supple by
the finish. It should drink well for the next five years
or more. Pasternak Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice.
—J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Pegasus Bay 2009 Pinot Noir (Waipara
Valley). Smoky aromas of hickory-laced dark
fruit lead the way, easily sliding into boysenberry and
bacon notes on the palate. The flavors are meaty and
savory, not simply fruity, while the texture is lush. One
of the best examples of Peg Bay Pinot Noir in memory,
it finishes long, framed by supple tannins. Drink now–
2020. Meadowbank Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
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Villa Maria 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir
(Marlborough). This is an amply endowed,
round wine, with no hard edges. The ripe cherry fruit is
dusted with hints of dusty earth and ground cinnamon
that linger on the finish. It’s a lush, harmonious mouthful of Pinot pleasure. Drink now–2020. Ste. Michelle
Wine Estates. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
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Craggy Range 2010 Te Muna Road Vine
yard Pinot Noir (Martinborough). Craggy’s
Pinot style has been trending away from overt fruitiness
and toward this sort of complex umamifest of meat,
parsnip and mushroom, with just enough black cherry
fruit to support all of these components. This 2010 has
a firmly structured core surrounded by plush tannins
and ample length on the finish. Drink now–2023. Kobrand. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
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Escarpment 2009 Pinot Noir (Martinbor
ough). The Escarpment style is always one
of ample ripeness, weight and structure, and the 2009
measures up to the winery’s previous successes. Plummy fruit is tinged with a dark chocolate note, while the
palate is richly textured, and the finish is long and velvety. Drink now–2018. Meadowbank Estates. —J.C.
Price: $NA
abv: 14.5%
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Goldwater 2010 Wairau Valley Pinot Noir
(Marlborough). Goldwater originally made its
name as a Waiheke Island boutique winery, but the fruit
for this Pinot Noir is drawn from Marlborough’s main
Wairau Valley. Its pretty cherry fruit is marked by hints
of cedar, mocha and baking spices that finish balanced
and long. Drink now–2017. Pasternak Wine Imports.
—J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $26
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Jules Taylor 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). For full review see page 8. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
cocoa and coffee. It’s on the full-bodied side of things,
but it remains supple and shows great focus on the
lengthy finish. Drink now and over the next few years.
Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $56
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Peregrine 2009 Pinot Noir (Central Ota
go). Unabashedly New World in style, Peregrine’s 2009 combines lusty fruit with ample oak accents
to create a moderately complex, silky-textured Pinot
Noir. The cherry fruit is accented by hints of vanilla,
graham cracker and a delicate wreath of smoked meat.
Drink now–2017. Vineyard Brands. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
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Quartz Reef 2010 Pinot Noir (Central
Otago). Made from fruit that is drawn from the
Bendigo subregion, this is a full-bodied, supple Pinot
Noir that boasts a notably silky finish. It’s smoky, violetfilled and savory, but those nuances are balanced out by
the core of cherry fruit. Drink now–2020. Station Imports Inc. —J.C.
Price: $37
abv: 14%
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Saint Clair 2010 Pioneer Block 16 Awa
tere Pinot Noir (Marlborough). The cherry fruit that defines this wine is almost too bright, too
pure—it verges on being confected in character. Yet it’s
reined in by a leash of vanilla oak and a reasonably firm
structure of acids and tannins. The wine is merely too
young at the moment, so give it a few years to mellow
and gain complexity. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Spy Valley 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). Round and supple without being excessively weighty, Spy Valley’s 2010 Pinot Noir delicately balances smoky, bacony notes against those of dustcoated ripe cherries. It’s a winning combination that finishes long and elegantly. Drink now–2020. Broadbent
Selections, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $31
Saint Clair 2010 Omaka Reserve Pinot
Noir (Marlborough). One of the top offerings from Saint Clair is invariably its Omaka Reserve.
The 2010 features blackberry and cola notes that are
accented by a hickory smoke tone, a harmonious and
supple texture and a moderately long finish. Ready to
drink now, the wine should easily last another few years.
Winesellers Ltd. —J.C.
Price: $30
abv: 13.5%
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Saint Clair 2010 Pioneer Block 22 Barn
Block Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Saint
Clair’s Pioneer Block wines are always worth trying for
their expressions of Marlborough’s subregional characters. This one, from deep clay soils at the foot of the Dry
Hills, features a bold cherry aroma and flavor, backed by
ample vanilla and baking spice notes. It’s big and slightly
chunky in style, but it seems likely to smooth out over
the next 12 months as the dusty tannins subside. Winesellers Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
Mt. Difficulty 2011 Roaring Meg Pinot
Noir (Central Otago). Mt. Difficulty’s Pinots have resisted the trend toward ever-softer textures,
even in this, the winery’s entry-level bottling. Instead,
the wine is firmly structured. Savory, dark-skinned plum
fruit is accented by plenty of briary spice. Drink from
2014–2020. American Estates Wines, Inc. Editors’
Choice. —J.C.
Price: $25
abv: 14%
Mt. Difficulty 2010 Pinot Noir (Central
Otago). This wine’s black cherry and earth
notes are enticing, and the spice and mocha finish is intriguing, but right now the tannins are still a bit firm.
Give this medium-bodied Pinot Noir another year or
two to mellow, then enjoy it over the next 5–6 years.
American Estates Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
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Nautilus 2009 Four Barriques Pinot Noir
(Marlborough). This limited-production wine
is complex and savory, and it features notes of beets,
sous bois and cherries, layered with touches of creamy
The Crossings 2010 Pinot Noir (Awa
tere Valley). This label has had its ups and
downs over the years. The 2010 Pinot Noir is one of
the successes, and it boasts an effusive nose of roses,
cherries, dusty earth and mocha. It’s medium to full in
the mouth, delivering cherry fruit and underpinnings of
earth and spice. The finish is long, spicy and firm without being hard. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
Tohu 2010 Single Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Marlborough). Tohu is a wine company
owned by New Zealand’s indigenous peoples, the Maori. The wines have been mixed over the years, but this is
an excellent bottling. It boasts a full, ample mouthfeel
and plenty of supple tannins. Black cherry fruit marries
well with complex savory notes, while hints of pomegranate brighten the aromas. Drink now. Total Beverage Solution. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
90
Villa Maria 2010 Cellar Selection Pinot
Noir (Marlborough). For full review see page
8.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Brancott 2010 Terraces T Pinot Noir
(Marlborough). Brancott’s top Pinot Noir is
a round, mouth-filling wine that finishes tart and long.
Cranberry, mocha, roasted parsnip, mushroom and
smoke notes make for a complex wine that may be enjoyed now and over the next several years. Pernod Ricard. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
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Cloudy Bay 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). New Zealand’s best known winery does
a consistently good job with the Burgundian varieties,
not just Sauvignon Blanc. The chunky, medium-bodied 2010 Pinot Noir displays ample intensity, length
and complexity. Its savory style shows dark cherry fruit,
with hints of mocha and grilled meat. Drink now–2020.
Gregory White PR. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
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Dashwood 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). Dashwood’s 2010 Pinot Noir offers
complex aromas and flavors of roses, ripe cherries, cinnamon and nutmeg. It’s rather full bodied and a bit
dusty on the finish without being excessively drying.
Drink it over the next few years. Pasternak Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
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Nautilus 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlborough).
This is a delicate but flavorful wine. It starts off
with smoky, beet-like aromas, while the flavors are of
pie cherries, with herb overtones. It’s medium bodied,
with a tart finish. Drink now–2018. Negociants USA,
Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $29
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Saint Clair 2010 Pioneer Block 15 Strip
Block Pinot Noir (Marlborough). The fruit
for this provocatively named bottling is sourced from
the lower Waihopai, or “Spy Valley” section of Marlborough. It’s a medium-bodied, supple wine that places
the emphasis on earthy notes of beetroot and clove, and
then adds in cherry fruit and vanillin. Long, savory and
spicy on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Spy Valley 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). Although the winery is best known for
top-flight aromatic whites, Spy Valley’s Pinot Noir is
steadily improving, and the 2011 is a notable success.
Plummy fruit is accented by hints of toasty oak and
damp moss, balanced by crisp acids and delivered on
a soft, creamy palate. Ready to drink now, but the wine
should also comfortably go another four years. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $31
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Staete Landt 2010 Paladin Pinot Noir
(Marlborough). Staete Landt’s upscale Pinot
Noir eschews dark color and extraction in favor of lighter body and soft tannins. Leather, cranberry and cocoa
aromas lead the way, followed on the palate by a pie
cherry note and a slightly medicinal green-herb edge.
Tart and long on the finish, this wine appears to have
the potential to mature gracefully through 2020. Verity
Wine Partners. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
89
Villa Maria 2010 Private Bin Pinot Noir
(Marlborough). For full review see page 9.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
89
Wither Hills 2010 Wairau Valley Pinot
Noir (Marlborough). Despite starting off
with some stalky-woody aromas and a healthy dash of
hickory smoke, this wine turns fruity and approachable
on the palate. Strawberry and cherry notes are accented
by twig and herb touches, while the texture is supple
and the finish is long. Drink now–2017. Distinguished
Vineyards & Wine Partners. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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Cairnbrae 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). Round in the mouth and creamy in
texture, this wine’s ripe cherry fruit is softly framed by
brown sugar, caramel and cinnamon notes. Drink now–
2018. Station Imports Inc. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
for Cabernet lovers. Drink now. Constellation Brands,
Inc. —J.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $22
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Seresin 2009 Leah Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). Seresin’s 2009 Leah is already mature.
An evolved, earthy aroma of fresh compost adds a layer
of interest to the pretty cherry fruit. As the name suggests, this is a delicate, feminine style, with silky tannins
and restrained weight. Drink now. The Sorting Table.
—J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
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Urlar 2010 Pinot Noir (Wairarapa). For full
review see page 9.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
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Villa Maria 2010 Taylors Pass Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Marlborough). This is filled with
bright, bold cherry fruit, and it will be interesting to see
if this wine develops additional complexities with age.
Right now, it’s a bit one-dimensional, although it does
have some pretty nuances of pollen and cocoa on the
nose and a silky texture on the palate. Ste. Michelle
Wine Estates. —J.C.
Price: $44
abv: 13.5%
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Eradus 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlborough).
Although this wine doesn’t fit the Marlborough
stereotype, it is pretty, delicate and complex. Hints of
decaying leaves add an intriguing layer of interest to the
peppery strawberry-rhubarb fruit. The tannins are supple enough to suggest drinking this wine over the next
few years. Rad Grapes. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Clifford Bay Estate 2010 Pinot Noir (Marl
borough). This chunky, beefy Pinot Noir offers plenty of flavor for a realistic price. Hints of smoke,
violet and tomato leaf add complexity to the black cherry fruit. The finish is long and lightly dusted with tannins. Drink now. Foley Family Wines. Editors’ Choice.
—J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Jawbone 2007 Reserve Selection Pinot
Noir (Marlborough). This is an unusual New
Zealand Pinot Noir in that it spent 36 months in oak
prior to bottling. The result is a mature, ready-to-drink
wine, with delicate, silky tannins and modest fruit flavors. The oak isn’t dominant, but there is a smoky flavor
element, along with hints of dried herb, briar patch and
mushroom. Jawbone Winery and Vineyards. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
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Mt. Beautiful 2011 Pinot Noir (Canter
bury). This is a silky, medium-bodied Pinot
Noir that’s ready to drink. Pleasant cherry fruit is joined
by hints of twig and earth, and a touch of mocha emerges on the finish. Mt. Beautiful USA. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
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Nobilo 2010 Icon Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). This medium- to full-bodied Pinot
Noir displays toasted cedar, vanilla bean and chocolaty
espresso notes, which are all layered over a modicum
of plummy fruit. It’s oaky but satisfying—a Pinot Noir
Voss 2010 Pinot Noir (Martinborough).
Endowed with ample tannin, this may be one
New Zealand Pinot Noir that requires additional bottle
age. That said, positive future evolution is by no means
guaranteed. Its dark, savory style is one that combines
black cherry fruit with notes of roasted meat and dark
coffee. Drink from 2016–2020. Empson (USA) Ltd.
—J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
Brancott 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlborough).
Not overly concentrated or extracted, this is a
plump, medium-bodied Pinot Noir that should have
broad appeal for its cherry and cinnamon aromas and
flavors and reasonable price. It’s clean and refreshing on
the finish, which is anchored by hints of mocha. Drink
now. Pernod Ricard. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
Dog Point 2009 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). Despite having a lovely, silky texture,
this wine is slightly disappointing given its pedigree. It’s
already bricking in color, and it offers evolved notes of
earth, leather and charred beetroot and a lingering finish. Drink now. Vintus LLC. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $41
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Saint Clair 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). One of the nice things about this Pinot
Noir is that despite the considerable quantities produced (17,000 cases), it doesn’t seem forced in any way.
It’s medium bodied and silky, with aromas and flavors of
maraschino cherries and button mushrooms that leave a
pretty, delicate impression behind on the palate. Wine
sellers Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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Saint Clair 2010 Pioneer Block 14 Doc
tor’s Creek Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Despite possibly being the least complex of Saint Clair’s
2010 Pioneer Block Pinots, this medium-bodied wine
WineMag.com | 43
has crisp acids and mouthwatering flavors of black cherries and fresh herbs. It’s fresh, clean and invites sip after
sip. Drink now–2016. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
ony—on the finish, and it has a dusty layer of tannins to
ensure that it lasts for at least a few years. The Sorting
Table. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
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Ten Sisters 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). Made in an attractive, drink-now style,
this light- to medium-bodied Pinot Noir showcases
pretty raspberry and strawberry fruit that is framed by
fresh-cut cedar and soft tannins. Bartow Imports. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
Omaka Springs 2009 Falveys Pinot Noir
(Marlborough). This is pale in color, with
a light body and a silky texture. Cranberry and mushroom flavors are varietally correct, and a hint of mocha
appears on the finish. Drink now. T.G.I.C. Importers.
—J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Vavasour 2010 Pinot Noir (Awatere Val
ley). Drawn from the Awatere Valley sub
region, this is a chunky, full-bodied Pinot Noir. Oak
is prominent, in the form of toast, vanilla and graham
cracker notes, while the fruit is grapy. This wine shows
decent length; the finish is cushioned by soft tannins
and is pointed up by tart acids. Drink over the next year
or two. Foley Family Wines. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Oyster Bay 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). At 50,000 cases imported, this must be
one of the most ubiquitous New Zealand Pinots in the
United States. It’s medium bodied and tightly wound,
with a crisp core of mouthwatering acidity that adds zest
to the flavors of dark cherry, earth and leather. Drink
now. Oyster Bay Wines. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
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Yealands 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlborough).
This is a lightweight Pinot Noir with seductive
aromas of pie cherries and dusty roses, and a delicate,
almost lacy, texture. It’s the kind of pretty, silky Pinot
that would be at home with chicken and fish dishes.
Drink now. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
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Ara 2011 Select Blocks Single Estate
Pinot Noir (Marlborough). The Ara project
has yet to realize its considerable potential. This highend bottling is a solid, middle-of-the-road Marlborough
Pinot Noir, and it displays subdued aromas of dust-
coated cherries, with modestly concentrated flavors of
cherry and earth and a medium-length finish. Drink it
over the next few years. Ara Wines International. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Ponga 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlborough).
This is a pretty solid value for the price, as long
as you don’t mind plenty of oak influence. A cedary note
dominates the nose and casts a long shadow across the
cherry-stained palate, imparting a vanilla flavor and
some drying tannins along the way. Despite that, there’s
ample length and a mouthwatering quality to the finish.
Drink now. The Vintner Group. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
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Seifried 2009 Old Coach Road Pinot Noir
(Nelson). Light in weight and lacy in texture,
this is a savory, subtly flavored Pinot Noir that’s ready
to drink. Notes of smoke, mushrooms and dried herbs
intertwine with tart fruit. American Wine Distributors.
—J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
Clos Henri 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). Smoke, cedar and vanilla notes mark
the nose of this medium-bodied wine. There’s just
enough plummy fruit to support the oak on the midpalate, but the wood takes charge again on the finish.
Drink it over the next year or two before the fruit subsides. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
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Staete Landt 2010 Map Maker Pinot Noir
(Marlborough). Brown sugar and cinnamon
notes mark the nose of this medium-bodied Pinot Noir.
On the palate, it’s supple in texture, while the flavors
run toward overripe black cherries, with a hint of alfalfa. Clean and crisp on the finish. Verity Wine Partners. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
Fernz 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlborough).
This modest Pinot Noir is pale in color and light
in body, but don’t discount it. Pretty notes of strawberries are attractively underlined by hints of twigs and cocoa. It turns more cranberry-like and slightly astringent
on the finish. Drink now. G.K. Skaggs, Inc.. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
The Crater Rim 2010 Pinot Noir (Canter
bury). A delicate, lacy style of Pinot Noir, with
pretty rhubarb-like herbal shadings to the cranberry
and strawberry fruit, extremely supple tannins and hints
of cocoa and coffee on the abbreviated finish. Drink
now. Epicurean Wines. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Giesen 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlborough).
This moderately pale wine doesn’t show a lot of
concentration or tannic structure, but it offers charming
notes of cherry, clove and cinnamon. Drink now. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Momo 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlborough).
This entry-level offering from Seresin offers a
pleasing blend of root veggies and mushrooms, with
cranberry and raspberry fruit. It’s crisp—almost lem44 | wine enthusiast | april 2013
Ara 2011 Pathway Single Estate Pinot
Noir (Marlborough). This medium-bodied
Pinot Noir isn’t particularly soft or silky, but it does offer
copious amounts of crunchy cherry and raspberry fruit,
dressed up by a hint of mocha-like oak. Drink now. Ara
Wines International. —J.C.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
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Framingham 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). Despite this estate remaining among
the top echelon of New Zealand Riesling producers,
Framingham’s Pinot Noir is solid but unexciting. It’s
plump and medium bodied, and it offers modest cherry fruit and a touch of bitterness on the finish. Evaton,
Inc. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
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Fusional 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlborough).
This medium-bodied Pinot features slightly dry
tannins, but otherwise delivers attractive aromas and
flavors of dark cherries and button mushrooms, joined
by hints of earth and spice. Drink now. Luxe Vintages.
—J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Kim Crawford 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). Part of Constellation’s extensive stable of New Zealand brands, Kim Crawford’s medium-
bodied 2010 Pinot Noir is a charming effort. The straw
berry and raspberry notes are bright and cheerfully
fruity on the nose and on the palate, although it finishes
quickly. Constellation Brands, Inc. —J.C.
Price: $19
abv: 14%
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Matua Valley 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). Pale in color, this light-bodied Pinot
Noir is appropriately supple in texture and offers modest berry and chocolate notes. The finish is surprisingly
long, but a bit lemony. Drink now. Treasury Wine Estates. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Opawa 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlborough).
A pale, crisp, cranberryish rendering of Pinot
Noir, this is the sort of light-bodied, red-fruited Pinot
that could be served with salmon or other fish dishes.
Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
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Saint Clair 2011 Vicar’s Choice Pinot
Noir (Marlborough). A simple, cherry-driven
example of Marlborough Pinot Noir, this medium-bodied wine doesn’t offer much richness, depth or texture,
yet pleases for its purity of fruit. Drink it over the next
year or so. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
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Vinterra 2010 Pinot Noir (South Island).
A basic, serviceable Pinot Noir, Vinterra’s 2010
combines varietally correct notes of cherry, leather
and earth. The medium-weight palate and supple tannins stay true to the variety as well. Kysela Père et Fils.
—J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
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Clos Henri 2011 Bel Echo Terroir: Grey
wacke Pinot Noir (Marlborough). This estate’s Old World roots (it is owned by Loire Valley-based
Henri Bourgeois) show in this wine’s restrained fruit
and marginal ripeness. Notes of rhubarb and tomato
leaf mark the nose, and the palate is lean and sinewy.
Slocum & Sons, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Clos Henri 2011 Petit Clos Pinot Noir
(Marlborough). Owned by the same Henri
Bourgeois family that produces a dizzying array of Loire
wines, this tastes a bit like a Loire wine. It’s lean and
tart in style, with barely ripe fruit that is accented by
herbal notes and a crisp finish. Drink now. Slocum &
Sons, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
vors are accented by leather and dark chocolate notes.
Terlato Wines International. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
acids on the finish. Drink now and over the next year or
two. South Pacific Wines. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
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Cottesbrook 2010 Pinot Noir (South Is
land). A hint of adhesive bandage on the nose
casts a sweaty note over the otherwise pretty tones of
violets and cherries. On the palate, the wine is medium
bodied, and it’s tart and tangy on the finish. Drink now.
Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Martin’s Rake 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). This relatively lightweight Pinot Noir
features an array of meaty, earthy notes and a modest
pie-cherry flavor before drying out and turning even
more tart on the finish. Drink now. Winery Exchange.
—J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
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Mission Estate 2010 Merlot (Hawke’s
Bay). Mission Estate’s latest releases include
this herb-tinged Merlot, which displays tobacco and
tomato-like notes that are layered over modest cherry
fruit. Drink this medium-bodied, supple wine over the
next two years. Station Imports Inc. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
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cabernets & blends
Fire Road 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). Light and refreshing in style, this wine
boasts slightly confected cherry fruit amplified by bright
acidity. It’s straightforward and relatively simple; drink
it over the next year or so. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
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Martinborough Vineyard 2011 Russian
Jack Pinot Noir (Martinborough). From
one of the region’s pioneering producers, this is an entry-level bottling that manages to provide a glimpse into
the Martinborough style. It favors leafy, savory elements
over overt fruitiness, offering hints of sun-baked brick,
bracken and cracked pepper that are layered over modest cherry fruit. Although silky in texture, it lacks length.
Drink now. The Sorting Table. —J.C.
Price: $24
abv: 13%
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Saint Clair 2011 Pioneer Block 16 Awa
tere Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Most of
Saint Clair’s Pioneer Block offerings are excellent, but
the 2011 Block 16 from the Awatere comes across as
a simple, fruit-driven Pinot Noir. A punched-up cherry note dominates, leaving little room for complexity or
structure. Drink now. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Staete Landt 2009 Paladin Pinot Noir
(Marlborough). Fully mature, this light- to
medium-bodied wine shows an evolved color, modest
cherry fruit and prominent notes of rusty iron and dusty
earth. Drink now. Verity Wine Partners. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
Sileni 2011 Cellar Selection Pinot Noir
(Hawke’s Bay). A lightweight but earthy style
of Pinot, this offers a faint cherry flavor and dark chocolate and coffee hints on the fast-fading finish. Drink
now. Prestige Wine Group. —J.C.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
syrah
90
Man O’ War 2009 Dreadnought Syrah
(Waiheke Island). Man O’ War’s 2008 Dreadnought put the winery on the map, and, although not
quite as dramatic, the 2009 is a worthy successor. Aromas are lifted, peppery and cherry-filled, while the flavor nuances include smoke and pepper-cured meats.
The wine is medium bodied and is marked by silky tannins and crisp acids. Drink now–2018. Pinnacle Wine
Vault LLC. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Mission Estate 2010 Syrah (Hawke’s
Bay). Think Crozes-Hermitage and you’ll have
a reasonable idea of what this wine is about: White pepper and cherry aromas and flavors, medium body without being overly rich or textured and a crisp, peppery
finish. Drink it over the next couple of years with burgers and the like. Station Imports Inc. Editors’ Choice.
—J.C.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
merlot
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Woollaston 2010 Pinot Noir (Nelson).
This medium-bodied Pinot Noir is oaky. It starts
off with smoky, meaty, hickory notes and never really incorporates them smoothly into the modest cherry fruit,
and it adds a mocha note on the slightly tough finish. A
grilled steak might help bring out the wine’s fruity side.
San Francisco Wine Exchange. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $29
Awatere River 2009 Marlborough Vine
yard Reserve Pinot Noir (Marlborough).
Already showing appreciable bricking in color, this is an
earthy, rooty style of Pinot Noir. It retains ample body,
and it finishes slightly chunky and charred. Drink now.
Verity Wine Partners. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
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Wairau River 2010 Pinot Noir (Marlbor
ough). Lean and wiry in style, this pale Pinot
Noir stands out as being different from most Marlborough bottlings. Modest strawberry and cranberry fla-
Saint Clair 2010 Rapaura Reserve Merlot
(Marlborough). A rare Marlborough Merlot,
this is a superficially charming wine that shows cassis
fruit and lashings of smoky, cedary oak. It does lack a bit
of richness, particularly on the finish, but it scores for its
upfront display of ripe fruit and toasty oak. Winesellers
Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
Oyster Bay 2011 Merlot (Hawke’s Bay).
This wine is crisp, medium bodied and surprisingly firm for an inexpensive Merlot. Drink this wine
over the next year or two for its potent cassis and black
cherry fruit. Some rare beef will help show the wine to
best effect. Oyster Bay Wines. —J.C.
Price: $15
abv: 13.5%
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Crossroads 2010 Merlot (Hawke’s Bay).
This shows the herbal side of Merlot, as it deals
tobacco and cherry tomato flavors in addition to cassis.
It’s medium in body, and it has a silky texture and crisp
92
Man O’ War 2009 Ironclad (Waiheke Is
land). This powerful, intense Bordeaux-style
blend includes (in decreasing amounts) Cabernet
Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is richly textured, and it offers ripe
boysenberry and cassis fruit, layered with supple tannins and smoky oak. Approachable now, but it will probably be better in five years, and it could still be going
strong in 10 years. Pinnacle Wine Vault LLC. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Mission Estate 2010 Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (Hawke’s Bay). Somehow, Mission Estate has managed to produce a prototypical Cabernet
for a price that should leave consumers smiling. Cassis,
tobacco and cedar notes pick up a mocha shading on the
long, mouthwatering finish. It’s a soft, supple wine that
can be consumed over the next five years. Station Imports Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
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Man O’ War 2009 Merlot-Cabernet (Wai
heke Island). This “white label” blend is broad
and lush, and it offers typical Bordeaux-blend aromas
and flavors of plum, cassis and cigar box. A mocha note
comes through on the softly tannic finish. Drink now
and over the next few years. Pinnacle Wine Vault LLC.
—J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
87
Craggy Range 2010 Te Kahu Gimblett
Gravels Vineyard Merlot-Cabernet FrancCabernet Sauvignon-Malbec (Hawke’s Bay). The
2010 vintage of Te Kahu is 80% Merlot, with only single-digit percentages of the other varieties. It’s a darkly
fruited wine, with notes of black cherry and blackberry
that are impeccably clean and precise. Drink this silkytextured, medium-bodied wine over the next five years.
Kobrand. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
california
chardonnay
94
Joseph Swan Vineyards 2010 Saralee’s
Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Val
ley). It’s easy to create ripe, oaky wines, but attaining
true complexity is something else. This Chardonnay,
which was made from fruit sourced from a highly regarded vineyard in the cool mid-southern part of the
Russian River Valley, is elaborate, dry and rich in green
WineMag.com | 45
apple, mango and orange flavors. The acidity is just
about perfect, giving the palate a tart zinginess. Drink
this with lobster and crab, and don’t forget the buttered
bread. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $32
92
Solomon Hills 2010 Chardonnay (Santa
Maria Valley). For full review see page 6.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $43
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vors. It wasn’t aged in oak, and the malolactic fermentation was blocked. The result is a clean, vibrant and
mouthwatering selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $34
Steven Kent 2010 Merrillie, Landucci
Block Chardonnay (Livermore Valley). Although the 2010 vintage was cooler than the previous
two years, this Chardonnay still offers rich and luscious
notes of crème caramel and baked pear. The intoxicating bouquet picks up layers of lemon zest and mineral.
—V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $34
Del Dotto 2010 Cinghiale Vineyard Char
donnay (Sonoma Coast). A rich effort, this
offers ripe pear, citrus and tropical fruit flavors. Interesting notes of mushrooms and dried fruits are beginning to emerge, although that might indicate the wine’s
limited ageability. Drink over the next 1–2 years. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $85
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Testarossa 2011 Dos Rubios Vineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands).
Testarossa purchases fruit, but this wine was made from
fruit sourced from the winery’s own vineyard. This is
ultraclean and crisp in acidity, and it offers flavors of
tropical fruit and an overlay of oak. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $39
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Benovia 2010 Chardonnay (Fort RossSeaview). With it’s brisk acidity and tangy
minerality that gird the Asian pear and tropical fruit flavors, this wine expresses its coastal origin as well as the
cool vintage. It feels streamlined and elegant. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $42
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Chanin 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard Char
donnay (Santa Maria Valley). This Chardonnay is dry and offers brilliant acidity. At first, it’s austere, but then the core of citrus and tropical fruits becomes apparent and intense. The nervy acidity leads to
a tight, zesty finish. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $35
Del Dotto 2010 Cinghiale Vineyard Re
serve Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This
wine has great structure, with tart acidity and firm minerality that bolsters the flavors of pear and orange. It
feels racy and elegant all the way through. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $125
Kenneth Volk 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Rich
and ripe, this wine has flavors of tangerines, nectarines
and limes, which are brightened by crisp acidity. The
oak influence shows in the form of buttered toast and
honey notes. It should develop in the bottle over the
next six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $30
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Martinelli 2009 Three Sisters Vineyard
Sea Ridge Meadow Chardonnay (So
noma Coast). Complex and nuanced, this Chardonnay is beginning to lose its primary fruit flavors of pears
and tropical fruits, and it’s becoming dry and mushroomy. The sweet oak tones are also an integral part of
the profile. A subtle wine that is compatible with food,
it should last for another 3–4 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $60
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Kazmer & Blaise 2010 Boon’s Fly Hill
Chardonnay (Carneros). Zippy, zesty acidity balances the ripe pear, lime and tropical fruit flavors.
There are also rich streaks of buttered toast and vanilla
bean from having matured in oak, as well as a yeastiness from having aged on its lees. Dry and complex, this
wine is meant to be consumed with crab and buttered
bread. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
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La Rochelle 2010 Dutton Ranch Morelli
Lane Chardonnay (Russian River Valley).
Upfront citrus, tropical fruit, peach and apple flavors
mark this rich Chardonnay, plus notes of buttered toast
and caramel. The opulence is balanced by crisp acidity
and stony minerality. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $65
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Martinelli 2009 Charles Ranch Chardon
nay (Sonoma Coast). This opulent wine
opens with a blast of buttered toast and tropical fruit
aromas. The flavors are complex, with swirls of pineapple, pear, yeast, toast and cinnamon. Drink now–2015.
—S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $48
Hirsch 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast). Big and bold, this Chardonnay is made
from fruit sourced from the winery’s estate vineyard in
the new Fort Ross-Seaview appellation. This underwent barrel fermentation, malolactic fermentation and
lees aging, and the result is a rich selection that offers
flavors of lemon and tropical fruit, buttered toast and
cream. Almost too assertive now, it needs a year or two
to resolve. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $55
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Fess Parker 2011 Ashley’s Chardonnay
(Sta. Rita Hills). Despite the rich, buttery,
toasty oak notes, this wine stands up to the barrel influence with its strong tropical fruit and pear flavors, as
well as its brisk acidity and stony minerality. It’s ready to
drink now with rich fare like lobsters or scallops. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $35
Mahoney 2011 Gavin Vineyard Chardon
nay (Carneros). This Chardonnay is dry, with
vibrant acidity and tangy, mineral-infused flavors of
stone and earth. It shows subtle notes of Meyer lemons,
limes and tangerines. Don’t drink this too cold. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $22
Nottingham Cellars 2011 Chardonnay
(Arroyo Seco). Nottingham Cellars, which
is known for producing wines from Bordeaux varieties,
has produced its first set of whites in 2011. This Chardonnay is earthy, and it offers a crisp lemony character
and hints of nut and pear. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $24
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MacRostie 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast). For full review see page 8. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
Vino V 2010 Solomon Hills VIneyard
Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Ripe
and juicy, this has flavors of tangerine and tropical
fruit, plus notes of creamy lees and smoky, sweet oak.
It would feel heavy if not for the brisk acidity that provides balance and elegance. —S.H.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $36
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Melville 2011 Estate Verna’s Chardonnay
(Santa Barbara County). While this Chardonnay has rich tropical fruit and citrus flavors, with a
light touch of oak, the acidity and minerality make it
taste clean and balanced. Don’t drink it too cold, and be
sure to enjoy it with Dungeness crab and buttered sourdough bread. —S.H.
Price: $24
abv: 14%
90
Smith-Madrone 2010 Estate Bottled
Chardonnay (Spring Mountain). For full
review see page 8. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30
Dutton-Goldfield 2011 Dutton Ranch
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This
Chardonnay has crisp acidity, plus notes of pineappleorange jam, vanilla custard and lees. For drinking now,
this will pair well with shellfish. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
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Geyser Peak 2010 Block Collection Wa
ter Bend Chardonnay (Alexander Valley).
This is a complex Chardonnay, with flavors of honey,
tangerine, apricot and toffee that are balanced by the
crisp, citrusy acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $18
90
The Mission 2011 Chardonnay (Arroyo
Seco). This tastes bone dry, with cleansing
acidity and firm minerality. It offers subtle layers of
green apples, figs and tropical fruits, plus an edge of
sweet vanilla. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $20
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Transcendence 2011 Zotovich Vineyard
Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). This Chardonnay has ripe, rich tangerine, pear and pineapple fla-
Horse & Plow 2011 McFadden Farm
Chardonnay (Mendocino). Made from fruit
sourced from McFadden’s certified-organic vineyard,
this bright Chardonnay is a zesty mix of kiwi, lime and
fig flavors that are layered with acidity. —V.B.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $20
Keenan 2011 Chardonnay (Spring Moun
tain). With its keen acidity and mineral-dominated flavors, this currently tastes a bit austere. It also
has a core of orange, apricot and mango flavors that are
sweetened by oak. Don’t drink it too cold, and allow it
to breathe before consuming. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $31
cious peach and vanilla custard, butterscotch and toast.
Brisk acidity enlivens the palate. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $22
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La Fenêtre 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). This has
brisk, tingly acidity and rich, toasty new oak flavors, plus
mineral and fruit notes. Try this in 2015 as it could become surprisingly complex. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $39
La Fenêtre 2010 Los Alamos Vineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County).
Trading opulence for elegance, this Chardonnay tastes
dry and streamlined, with tart acidity. It’s spicy, fresh
and lithe, and it offers subtle citrus and flower notes.
This should develop creamy, nutty tones over the next
six years. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $34
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Nottingham Cellars 2011 Fraser-Howard
Vineyard Chardonnay (Livermore Val
ley). This has a rich note of caramel, plus undertones
of baked apple and tropical fruit. The acidity is keen
and the finish is long, with vanilla and butter notes. It’s
aged in 40% new French oak, and it has the roundness
to show for it. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $32
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Bacigalupi 2011 Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). Flavors of sweet, smoky oak;
ripe, forward tropical fruit; and creamy lees mark this
Chardonnay. It’s made in the modern, voluptuous style.
—S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $56
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Donati 2011 Sorelle Per Sempre Sisters
Forever Un-Oaked Chardonnay (Central
Coast). This tastes like a fruit juice blend of pineapples, oranges, mangoes and apricots. The acidity makes
it taste bright and crisp. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $16
87
Geyser Peak 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma
County). For full review see page 10. Best
Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Kokomo 2011 Peters Vineyard Chardon
nay (Russian River Valley). Dry, acidic and
a little earthy, this shows elegance and restraint. With
a medium level of alcohol and subtle citrus and mineral flavors, this wine is ready to drink now with roasted
chicken or grilled salmon. —S.H.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $28
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Kopriva 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay
(Carneros). The malolactic fermentation on
this unoaked wine was blocked, so this is brimming with
pure orange and lime flavors. The acidity is brisk and
clean. —S.H.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $18
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Mercy 2009 Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco).
Rich and oaky, this Chardonnay is pretty much
as good as Mercy’s more expensive single-vineyard bottlings. It feels creamy and smooth, and it tastes of lus-
Ricochet 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast). This is a flavorful, slightly heavy-
feeling Chardonnay that offers ripe flavors of apricots,
tropical fruits and pineapple cream. Although it’s dry,
it has a honeyed accent, especially on the spicy finish.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Wellington 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma
Valley). Ripe orange, lime and honey flavors
combine with tingly, mouth-watering acidity to give
this dry Chardonnay a sweet-and-sour taste. It’s an easy
wine to drink with mushroom risotto, garlic shrimp,
chicken fajitas. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $20
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Alderbrook 2010 Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). Made in the popular style, this
has flavors of buttered toast, orange, peach, Meyer lemon and vanilla bean, which are brightened by crisp acidity. Drink now. —S.H.
Price: $24
abv: 13.8%
86
Chateau St. Jean 2010 Belle Terre Vine
yard Chardonnay (Alexander Valley). Rich
and oaky, this wine’s buttered toast and buttered popcorn flavors are the main attraction. You’ll also find a
pineapple-orange jam note, plus a vanilla-like sweetness. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
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Flocchini 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast). This has apricot, orange and Meyer
lemon notes, plus a sweet toastiness. It will appeal to
consumers who enjoy Charonnays with a buttercreamlike smoothness and a buttered popcorn flavor. —S.H.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $30
86
Four Vines 2011 Naked Unoaked Char
donnay (Santa Barbara County). For full
review see page 10. Best Buy.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $10
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Patland 2011 Chardonnay (Napa Valley).
Dry and oaky, this Chardonnay offers herb-inflected pineapple and pear flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $60
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River Road Vineyards 2011 Reserve
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This
presents the opulence that many Chardonnay fans enjoy. It bears flavors of caramel, orange, pineapple, tapioca, vanilla, honey and cinnamon, which are wrapped in
a creamy texture. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $19
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Shadowbox 2010 Orchard Vineyard
Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Dry and acidic,
this Chardonnay has a herbaceous earthiness, plus flavors of orange and pear. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
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Three Saints 2010 Chardonnay (Santa
Maria Valley). The brisk acidity on this wine
balances the seemingly sweet flavors of pineapple-orange jam, vanilla bean and buttered toast. This is an
affordable introduction to the fine Chardonnays from
this well-regarded Santa Barbara County appellation.
—S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
85
Fess Parker 2011 Bien Nacido Vineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County).
This tastes strongly oaked, and it shows in the form of
buttered toast and caramel notes. The flavors of mango,
pear and apricot meld with the brisk acidity and firm
minerality. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $35
85
Fess Parker 2011 Sierra Madre Vine
yard Chardonnay (Santa Barbara Coun
ty). With all of the buttered toast, buttered popcorn
and butterscotch flavors, this Chardonnay’s fruit isn’t
allowed to speak. It has brisk acidity and rich tangerine and mango flavors, but the winemaker’s hand feels
heavy. —S.H.
Price: $35
abv: 14.3%
85
Gregory Graham 2011 Wedge Block
Chardonnay (Lake County). Gregory Graham’s first Lake County Chardonnay, this wine has
notes of vanilla custard, lemon and toasty oak. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $25
85
Leese-Fitch 2011 Chardonnay (Califor
nia). Rich, savory and seemingly slightly sweet,
this Chardonnay has acidity that provides balance to the
rich flavors of tangerines, golden mangoes, limes and
honey. Drink this with Chinese or Vietnamese fare.
—S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $12
85
River Road Vineyards 2011 Un-Oaked
Chardonnay (Sonoma County). This un
oaked effort sure tastes sweet, with flavors of sugared
orange, mango and apple juice. The acidity is fine, giving balance to the sweetness. —S.H.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $14
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Cru 2011 Appellation Series Chardonnay
(Santa Lucia Highlands). This Chardonnay
has brisk, crisp acidity and flavors of pineapple, orange
and mango. There are dominating notes of buttered
toast and sweet butterscotch. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Cru 2011 Vineyard Montage Chardonnay
(Monterey County). Although new oak accounts for only 10% of the barrels used, the oak influence dominates. Flavors of buttered toast, butterscotch
and vanilla ride over the note of pineapple-orange jam.
The best thing about the wine is its brisk, clean acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $23
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Picket Fence 2011 Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). Seemingly sweet and simple,
this has flavors of candied orange, peach and tropical
fruit. A brisk hit of acidity provides much-needed balance. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
WineMag.com | 47
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Barra of Mendocino 2010 Chardonnay
(Mendocino). This is a light, bright Chardonnay that would be a great wine to serve at casual dining situations or at larger gatherings. The finish bears an
acidic kick —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
82
Peacock Cellars 2011 Chardonnay (Cen
tral Coast). Caramelized oak and tangerine
jam flavors give this Chardonnay a honeyed sweetness
that would appeal consumers who enjoy modern-style
wines. The high alcohol gives it a peppery burn. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $20
82
Pennywise 2011 Chardonnay (Califor
nia). This smells and tastes like vanilla, mango
and honeysuckle. While the alcohol level is relatively
modest, it is apparent. —S.H.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $12
viognier
It’s a fine choice to pair with Asian fare or to enjoy on its
own as an apéritif. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
86
Girasole Vineyards 2011 Pinot Blanc
(Mendocino). Straightforward, balanced and
light, this Pinot Blanc would pair well with fresh shellfish, and it would also make for a nice apéritif. A quick
jolt of almond appears on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
gewÜrztraminer
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Philo Ridge 2010 Ferrington Vineyard
Gewürztraminer (Anderson Valley). Made
from fruit sourced from the mighty Ferrington Vineyard, this tank-fermented Gewürztraminer is crafted
without oak or malolactic fermentation. The result is
a light, lemony and floral wine, with moderate acidity
and a note of chai tea on the finish that lends an exotic
edge. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $19
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Fess Parker 2011 Viognier (Santa Barba
ra County). This wine demonstrates Viognier’s
exotic side, with flavors of tropical fruit, tangerine, white
flower, vanilla, honey and spice. Despite the richness,
it’s dry and the acidity is mouthwatering. Don’t serve
this too cold, and pair it with Asian fare that’s slightly
sweet. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
Jorian Hill 2010 Viognier (Santa Ynez Val
ley). Aged in stainless steel, this Viognier bears
pure, rich flavors of orange, lemon, peach and honeysuckle that are brightened by crisp acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $24
88
Nottingham Cellars 2011 Viognier (Ar
royo Seco). A new wine for Nottingham, this
is a crisp, textured Viognier. Apricot and orange notes
meld with a whiff of jasmine on the nose. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $28
pinot blanc
91
Nagy 2011 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot
Blanc (Santa Maria Valley). This is high in
alcohol, but the result is a rich Pinot Blanc, with citrus,
tropical fruit, mineral, white flower and honey flavors.
The bright, citrusy acidity keeps the mouthfeel keen
and zingy. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $24
90
Sierra Madre 2010 Sierra Madre Vineyard
Estate Pinot Blanc (Santa Maria Valley).
Rich and full-bodied, this has the weight of a barrelfermented, lees-aged wine. This 100% Pinot Blanc has
plenty of orange, cream, brown sugar and brown butter
flavors. Try it as an interesting alternative to Chardonnay. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $21
88
Saint Gregory 2011 Pinot Blanc (Men
docino County). Light and clean, this Pinot
Blanc has layered flavors of flower, pear and mineral.
Navarro 2011 Dry Estate Bottled Gewürz
traminer (Anderson Valley). This is an aromatic, honeysuckle-tinged cool-climate white, with layers of honey and spice. Light in body and texture, this
complex, Alsace-style effort is the perfect accompaniment to Thai, Indian, Korean barbecue or spicy Chinese food. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Vineyard Gewürztraminer (Russian River
Valley). Tasting somewhere between dry and off dry
on the sweetness spectrum, this has tropical fruit, white
flower and spice flavors that make it a perfect accompaniment to modern Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Burmese
and even Indian fare. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
pinot gris/grigio
90
Joseph Swan Vineyards 2010 Trenton
Station Vineyard Pinot Gris (Russian Riv
er Valley). One of the best Californian Pinot Gris currently available, this is rich, creamy and complex, and it
would make for a great alternative to Chardonnay. This
wine traditionally ages in used oak, which imparts just a
hint of wood-driven sweetness to the pear, peach, mango and lime flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
89
Geyser Peak 2012 Pinot Grigio (Califor
nia). For full review see page 10. Best Buy.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
89
Navarro 2011 Pinot Gris (Anderson Val
ley). This cool-climate Pinot Gris is balanced
and light, and it offers refreshing layers of citrus, almond and peach. It will pair with goat cheese and seafood-based appetizers, and it will also be enjoyed on its
own —V.B.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $20
87
Benessere 2011 Pinot Grigio (Carne
ros). While the orange, pear and green apple
flavors of this Pinot Grigio seem sweetened by the vanilla and honey notes, the wine’s brisk acidity balances
it and makes finish dry and clean. This will make for a
fine apéritif, and it will also pair well with slightly sweet
Chinese, Vietnamese and Cambodian fare. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $22
87
riesling
Philo Ridge 2010 Klindt Vineyard Pinot
Gris (Anderson Valley). A darker expression
of Pinot Gris than the winery’s new Marguerite Vineyard bottling, this wine, which is made from fruit grown
at lower elevation, sees no oak, and it’s crafted without
malolactic fermentation. Pronounced notes of almond
and vanilla are layered over touches of peach and melon. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $19
91
87
Smith-Madrone 2011 Riesling (Spring
Mountain). Classic Smith-Madrone Riesling,
this is dryish and clean, with mouthwatering acidity
and hints of citrus, Asian pear, green apple and honey.
It shows balance and elegance that is rare in California
Riesling. Enjoyable now, and it should slowly develop
nuances over the next eight years. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $27
89
Navarro 2011 Riesling (Anderson Valley).
A dry, light-bodied, easy-drinking Riesling, this
has zesty lemon and grapefruit flavors, plus undertones
of flower and spiced tangerine. The palate shows depth,
and the finish is intense. —V.B.
abv: 12.7%
Price: $19
88
Fess Parker 2011 Riesling (Santa Barba
ra County). For full review see page 9. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12%
Price: $14
Philo Ridge 2010 Marguerite Vineyard Pi
not Gris (Anderson Valley). A cool-climate
Pinot Gris, this is a finely tuned citrusy white, with crisp
notes of peach and apricot. This is the winery’s first
release that’s made from Marguerite Vineyard fruit.
It spent no time in oak and malolactic fermentation
was blocked, which helped to preserve an impressive
amount of acidity. —V.B.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $21
86
Ramspeck 2011 Sassolini Pinot Grigio
(Lake County). The fruit that was used to
make this Pinot Grigio was sourced from a High Valley
vineyard situated at an elevation of 2,000 feet. The resulting wine is full of citrus and green apple aromas and
flavors. The finish shows a touch of sweetness. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
86
Swanson 2011 Pinot Grigio (Napa Val
ley). Marked by brisk, citrusy acidity, this Pinot
Grigio has orange, Meyer lemon and sweet green-grass
flavors. It would pair well with Chinese and Vietnamese
food. —S.H.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $21
barrel, there is a vanilla-cream-like sweetness. This will
pair well with Asian fare, ham or sausage. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $18
sauvignon blanc
86
93
Navarro 2011 Cuvee 128 Sauvignon
Blanc (Mendocino). Full of vitality from start
to finish, this wine has bright flavors of pear and melon.
Pair it with Asian fare and spicy seafood, or enjoy it on
its own. —V.B.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $18
90
Flocchini 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (So
noma Coast). Clean, tart and expressive, this
has flavors of Asian pear, orange, lime, vanilla and gooseberry. Bright and zesty, this would make for a fine apéritif, and it would also pair well with Asian fare. —S.H.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $16
90
Geyser Peak 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Cal
ifornia). For full review see page 10. Best Buy.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
88
Ballard Lane 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Central Coast). Raised in stainless steel,
without oak infuence, this wine is rich, savory and dry. A
small percentage of Pinot Grigio brings a note of green
apple to the flavors of citrus, white flower and honey.
Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 12.2%
Price: $10
87
Courtney Benham 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Lake County). This Sauvignon Blanc tastes
lightly grassy, with a creamy texture and plenty of bite.
The flavors that pop include grapefruit, kiwi, cantaloupe
and wet stone. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $16
Wellington 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (So
noma Valley). Brisk, dry and clean, this Sauvignon Blanc shows New Zealand-like qualities. It has
gooseberry, lemon, lime, white pepper and vanilla flavors, and brisk acidity gives it a mouthwatering tartness.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
85
Edna Valley Vineyard 2011 Sauvignon
Blanc (Central Coast). A touch of oak influence lends smokiness to the lime, Meyer lemon and
tropical fruit flavors. With its crisp acidity that creates
a sweet-and-sour taste, this wine is for drinking now as
a cocktail sipper or with ham or Chinese food. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
85
Mercy 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Arroyo
Seco). Flavors of candied lemon, lime and
pineapple are brightened by crisp acidity in this unoaked
Sauvignon Blanc. The wine reflects this cool-climate
Monterey appellation with its clean, brisk character.
—S.H.
Price: $16
abv: 14%
84
Leese-Fitch 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Cali
fornia). This tastes a bit on the sweet side, with
flavors of white sugar, orange, lemon, lime and vanilla.
Fortunately, there’s a cut of crisp acidity that lends balance. The grapes come mainly from Lake County and
Paso Robles. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $12
white blends
87
86
87
84
86
82
Kenefick Ranch 2011 Estate Grown Sau
vignon Blanc (Calistoga). This tastes a little on the candied side, with flavors of pineapple and
lemon tart, plus a note of sweet buttered toast from the
oak. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $24
White Oak 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Rus
sian River Valley). Crisp acidity brightens
this wine’s seemingly sweet lemongrass, tropical fruit
and vanilla flavors. Try pairing this with Chinese food
or ham. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
Chateau St. Jean 2010 La Petite Etoile
Vineyard Fumé Blanc (Russian River Val
ley). The oak influence in this 100% Sauvignon Blanc
is strong, which gives it buttered toast and butterscotch
flavors. Underneath the oaky veneer is a crisp, clean
wine, with notes of lemon, lime, green melon and mango fruit. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $22
86
Tin Barn 2011 Hi Vista Vineyard Sauvi
gnon Blanc (Carneros). Off-dry in taste,
this wine has an intense sweet-and-sour flavor. It didn’t
undergo malolactic fermentation, so there’s plenty of
green-apple-like acidity, and as it partially fermented in
Orfila 2011 Estate Lotus (San Pasqual).
A South Coast blend of 68% Viognier with 16%
each of Marsanne and Roussanne, this is lemony, crisp,
and medium bodied, layered with notes of honey and
honeysuckle. Pair this with seafood. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
Insomnia 2011 White (California). This has
flavors of oranges, Meyer lemons and tropical
fruits, and there’s a good burst of acidity that lends balance. The finish tastes a bit sweet. Pair this selection
with Vietnamese, Chinese, Thai, Indian or Ethiopian
dishes. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $10
Vineyard Roussanne-Marsanne (Russian
River Valley). With its flavors of baked fruit and mushroom, this wine already tastes old and tired. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $22
81
Highland Hills Winery 2011 White Rhone
Blend (Ramona Valley). This blend of 64%
Marsanne and 36% Roussanne is one-dimensional, and
it tastes a bit sour. —V.B.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $25
other white wines
91
PasoPort 2011 Vinho Blanco (Edna Val
ley). Made from fruit sourced from the wellknown Paragon Vineyard, this 100% Albariño is smooth
and spicy, and its brilliant acidity highlights the green
apple, citrus and vanilla flavors. Try this as an alternative
to Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
90
Stolpman 2010 L’Avion Roussanne (San
ta Ynez Valley). New French oak and lees aging give this wine richness in the form of creamy, yeasty,
toast and vanilla flavors. It offers ripe, forward flavors of
oranges and tropical fruits, and the acidity plays a vital
role in creating balance and a clean finish. Try this as
an alternative to Chardonnay, and enjoy it with fish or
poultry in cream sauce. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $38
87
Epiphany 2011 Camp Four Vineyard Gr
enache Blanc (Santa Barbara County).
Ripe tangerine, peach, green apple and vanilla flavors
combine with brisk, citrusy acidity in this wine. This
wine saw a touch of neutral oak, which seems to have
contributed a smoky toast character. It picks up complexities as it warms and airs, so don’t drink this too cold.
—S.H.
Price: $25
abv: 14.1%
87
Graziano 2011 Chenin Blanc (Mendoci
no County). The abundant minerality of this
Mendocino Chenin Blanc hits first, followed by clean
flavors and a subtle layer of honey on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
86
Enotria 2011 Cortese (Mendocino Coun
ty). Inviting and floral, this Mendocino County
Cortese, the grape used to produce Gavi in Italy, is austere and almost salty, with a lime flavor and a smidgen
of Asian pear. This would pair well with briny seafood—
think something with bite to offset the bitterness on the
finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
85
Monte Volpe 2010 Tocai Friulano (Men
docino). This wine is alive with flavors of citrus, honey and orange blossom. With its sour twist on
the finish, it calls to be paired with seafood slathered in
garlic and cream. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
84
Peloton 2011 Jesperson Ranch Albariño
(Edna Valley). Albariño is very sensitive to
the slightest usage of oak. Although this wine has only a
touch of neutral oak, the wood still sticks out. The barrel influence gives it a buttered toast and caramel heaviness. Try this as an alternative to Chardonnay. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $27
82
Tower 15 2011 Grenache Blanc (Paso
Robles). This is dry and crisp in acidity, but
the vegetable and citrus flavors are clumsy. —S.H.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $18
WineMag.com | 49
sparkling wines
88
Halyard NV Brut (Napa-Mendocino-So
noma). A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and
Pinot Meunier, this has citrus, raspberry, toast, vanilla
and yeast flavors. The texture scours, with big, edgy
bubbles and lots of acidity. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
87
Sinnet 2007 Rosé (Napa-Sonoma-Mon
terey). This blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
and Pinot Meunier feels a little scouring. It has sweettasting flavors of raspberry jam, toast, vanilla and yeast.
Drink this bubbly now. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
dessert wines
94
Navarro 2011 Cluster Select Late Harvest
Muscat Blanc (Anderson Valley). Smooth,
balanced and lingering, this is sippable by itself after a
big meal, and it can also pair well with strong cheeses,
dark chocolates or stone-fruit-based desserts that are
layered with crème Anglaise. This selection also comes
in 375-ml bottles. —V.B.
abv: 9.9%
Price: $59
91
Navarro 2011 Cluster Select Late Harvest
Riesling (Anderson Valley). Dark golden in
color, this late-harvest Riesling, which was allowed to
develop botrytis after two October 2011 storms, has
knockout, sweet honey and apricot goodness from start
to finish. It’s round and concentrated, and it has 12.9%
residual sugar. Incredible on its own, this will also pair
well with peach- and pineapple-based desserts, foie gras
and blue cheeses. —V.B.
abv: 10.1%
Price: $59
rosés
87
Morovino 2011 Avila Beach Sunset Dry
Rosé of Pinot Grigio (Santa Barbara
County). This rosé gets its pretty eye-of-the-partridge
color from having undergone cold soaking. Dry, soft and
subtle, it shows peach, vanilla and spice flavors. Great
with cioppino or grilled salmon. —S.H.
Price: $18
abv: 13.8%
82
Flocchini 2010 Rosé (Sonoma Coast).
Made from Syrah, this is a heavy, fruity wine
that offers cherry, orange and mushroom flavors. It’s
very dry, with pleasant acidity. —S.H.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $18
pinot noir
95
Fort Ross 2010 Fort Ross Vineyard Sea
Slopes Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For
full review see page 3. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
95
La Rochelle 2009 Donum Estate Vine
yard Pinot Noir (Carneros). The Donum
Estate Vineyard has been producing some of Carneros’s
best Pinot Noirs of late. This is a complex bottling, with
notes of raspberry jam and vanilla, and the mouthfeel
is pleasingly tart. Production was only 55 cases, but it’s
worth a special search. —S.H.
Price: $75
abv: 14.6%
94
Chanin 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This Pinot Noir’s
raspberry and cherry fruit is joined by earthier notes
of mushroom and mulch, plus a touch of spicy bacon.
It’s dry and full bodied, with a rich vein of acidity and a
coating of furry tannins. Clearly a cellar candidate, this
will benefit from 6–8 years of aging. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $50
94
Hirsch 2010 East Ridge Estate Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A delicate,
silky mouthfeel makes this wine feel light and vibrant,
yet there’s nothing light about the flavors. Notes of wild
cherries, cranberries, Dr. Pepper, anise, pine and savory
spices explode on the palate, and they lead to a long,
dry finish. Give it 5–6 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Price: $85
abv: 13%
94
Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian Riv
er Valley). Tannic and tightly wound, this has an astringent resistance, but because the flavors are so powerful, it’s already delicious. Intense notes of raspberry
jam, cherry pie, anisette, Dr. Pepper are all present, and
a rich, sweet jacket of smoky sandalwood adds further
complexity. Give it 5–6 years in the cellar, but it could
last for 15 years if you enjoy mature wines. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $58
94
Martinelli 2010 Three Sisters Vineyard
Sea Ridge Meadow Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). This shows a dryness and an elegant silkiness
that make it lovely to drink now. It’s deep and long on
the palate, with flavors of raspberry-cherry tart, date,
cola and spicy sandalwood. Brisk acidity adds a tart bite
that would pair well with steak, lamb, salmon and tuna.
It will pick up bottle complexity over the next 10 years.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
93
Arista 2010 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see
page 5.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $58
93
Fort Ross 2009 Fort Ross Vineyard Re
serve Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full
review see page 5.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $65
93
Hirsch 2010 San Andreas Estate Vine
yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Dry and
tart in acidity, this Pinot Noir offers cherry-skin-like tannins that give the palate a brittle sensation. Give it 5–6
years to let the raspberry and cherry flavors meld with
the notes of oak and mineral. It should last the next 15
years, gradually losing its fruit and gaining earthy, mushroomy complexities. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
93
Hirsch 2010 The Bohan-Dillon Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). This is fairly tannic for Pinot
Noir, and it tastes bone dry and tart in acidity. The wild
cherry flavor comes with hints of balsam, dusty brown
spice, mineral and sandalwood. It shows all of the hallmarks of ageability, so cellar it until 2016, at the very
least. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $32
93
Joseph Swan Vineyards 2009 Great Oak
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val
ley). You can smell and taste the damp, cool, forest
countryside of the Russian River Valley in this wine.
Flavors of earth, mushroom, decaying tree bark and
pine needle are all present, and the notes of cherry,
cola and pomegranate are intense. It’s fairly tannic,
with a crisp edge of acidity. Drink now–2015. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $35
93
La Fenêtre 2010 Presqu’ile Vineyard Pi
not Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Made from
grapes sourced from the old Addamo property in the
cool Solomon Hills region, this wine shows an impressive core of cherry, cranberry and currant flavors. It’s
racy and complex, and the mouth-watering acidity
makes you crave lamb, tuna, steak and soft cheeses. It
can be enjoyed now, and it should age for up to 10 years.
—S.H.
Price: $49
abv: 13.7%
93
MacRostie 2009 Wildcat Mountain Vine
yard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full
review see page 5.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
93
Solomon Hills 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa
Maria Valley). For full review see page 6.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $57
93
Toretti’s 2009 Inocencio Pinot Noir (San
ta Barbara County). This wine offers complex flavors of sour cherry candy, persimmon, mushroom, spice and dried herb, brightened by crisp acidity.
The oak influence provides smoky sweetness and wood
tannins. This should continue to develop for six years
or so. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $44
92
Bien Nacido 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Ma
ria Valley). For full review see page 6. Cellar
Selection.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $57
92
Fess Parker 2010 Clone 115 Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). Let this Pinot Noir age for at
least 5–6 more years, because right now it’s tannic and
closed. The acidity gives the palate a citrus-like quality, and the concentrated core of cherries and currants
is sweet, spicy, succulent and balanced. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
92
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val
ley). This Pinot Noir is softer and more approachable
than many of Swan’s other new releases, so it’s probably
not as age worthy. But it feels smooth on the palate, and
the flavors of raspberry cream, cherry pie and buttered
toast are luscious. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $35
92
Kenneth Volk 2009 Bien Nacido Vine
yard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). The
ripe, dramatic flavors of blackberry and cherry seem
like they’re right out of the jam jar, and they meld with
toasty oak and crisp, coastal-inspired acidity. This needs
some time in the bottle to knit together, so give it 5–6
years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $48
92
La Rochelle 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). This is a dry wine, yet the flavors of raspberries and cherries are sweet tasting. It has
a delicate, silky mouthfeel, and the tart acids add plenty
of cut. Pair this with grilled, broiled or pan-fried steak,
served with mushrooms. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $42
92
Nagy 2010 Garey Ranch Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Maria Valley). On the palate,
this wine is rich and complex, with flavors of dried cherry, cola, licorice, red currant and sandalwood that finish
bone dry. It has lots of acidity and some sandpaper-like
tannins. This should begin to develop bottle-age notes
after 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
92
Phantom Rivers 2008 Wolff Vineyard Pi
not Noir (Edna Valley). A real flatterer, this
is instantly appealing for its upfront raspberry, cherry
and currant flavors. There’s subtlety to the acid-tannin
structure, and it finishes with notes of dried herbs and
tobacco. This needs a few years to come together. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $28
92
Siduri 2011 Parsons’ Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). Although this is silky
and elegant, it is one of Siduri’s higher alcohol Pinot
Noirs. Ripe and impressive, the raspberry and cherry
pie flavors are accented by sweet, smoky oak notes.
Drink it over the next 2–3 years for sheer pleasure.
—S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $49
91
Arista 2010 Perli Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Mendocino Ridge). For full review see page
6.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $52
91
Dierberg 2009 Estate Grown Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 6.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $44
91
Huge Bear 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv
er Valley). Made in a dry, light style, this Pinot
Noir has a silky mouthfeel and citrusy acidity that gets
the tastebuds whistling. It has intense flavors of sour
cherry candy and Dr. Pepper, and the oak influence
lends an edge of sweet toast. Seems at its best now and
over the next few years. It will pair well with tuna tartare. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
91
La Follette 2010 Manchester Ridge Vine
yard Pinot Noir (Mendocino Ridge).
Bright and high in acidity, this has a lively cherry flavor,
plus a layering of earthy mushroom. It’s silky from start
to finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $50
91
Navarro 2010 Méthode à l’Ancienne Pi
not Noir (Anderson Valley). Polished and
balanced, this masterpiece shows restraint and it’s already drinkable. With its great acidity and its fine intermingling of spice and red fruit flavors, this wine will appeal to lovers of Gamay and Pinot Noir. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $29
91
Siduri 2011 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). The raspberry
and cherry flavors are a bit obvious at first, but then the
balanced tannins and acids become apparent, and the
tasteful application of sweet, smoky oak surfaces. This
wine grows more interesting as it sits in the glass. Drink
it now and over the next 3–4 years for maximum freshness. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $55
90
Joseph Swan Vineyards 2010 Cuvée de
Trois Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
This wine captures the essence of Swan’s 2010 Pinot
Noirs. It shows the effects of the cool vintage, and it
bears an earthy, mushroomy inflection to the plummy
and cherry-like flavors. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $29
90
Kazmer & Blaise 2010 Primo’s Hill Pinot
Noir (Carneros). As this is tight and currently
aloof, it lacks the generosity of the 2009 vintage, but it
may prove to be more ageable. It has deep, earthy flavors of red currant, cola and balsam, and it could blossom into something even more complex after 2016.
Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $50
90
La Fenêtre 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This is rich
and appealing now for its ripe flavors of raspberry and
cherry that taste as if they were baked in a sweet, smoky
pie crust. The acidity provides a pleasant tartness. It
should age well over the next 3–5 years. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $49
90
Lost Canyon 2010 Morelli Lane Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Cellar
this young wine for 5–6 years to let it mellow. Right
now, it’s aggressive in tannins and acids. The core of
cherry, black raspberry, rhubarb and plum flavors is
strong, which suggests that the wine will age. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
90
Relic 2010 Kashaya Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Give this Pinot Noir some time to
breathe and mellow in a decanter. Right out of the bottle, it’s tough, tannic and jammy in raspberry and cherry
flavors. But it doesn’t take long for it to pick up some
complexities. This wine’s rich, sweet oakiness will pair
well with steaks, lamb chops and mushroom risottos.
—S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $58
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Siduri 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High
lands). This wine’s acid-tannin balance is beautiful, which lends structure to the raspberry, cherry, red
currant and vanilla flavors. It shows the elegance associated with the vintage. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
90
Wild Hog 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Big, robust and fleshy on the palate,
this Pinot Noir is packed with cherry, cranberry and Dr.
Pepper flavors. It should mellow in 6–7 years. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $30
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Flocchini 2006 Andrea La Rue Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). Clean, mellow and inviting, this bears rich flavors of raspberries and cherries,
brightened by crisp acidity. Drink now. —S.H.
Price: $27
abv: 14.3%
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Flying Goat Cellars 2010 Solomon Hills
VIneyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley).
A rich Pinot that offers power and density, this is stuffed
with cherry, cola and pomegranate notes. It has sizable
tannins, so give it 5–6 years to let them mellow. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $42
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Mahoney 2010 Mahoney Ranch Pinot
Noir (Carneros). Tightly wound, dry and
acidic, this Pinot Noir offers direct and jammy flavors
of cherry and persimmon. The structure is fine, with
firm tannins and stony minerality. Once decanted, it can
be consumed now, or it can be cellared for 3–5 years.
—S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $38
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Siduri 2011 Sierra Mar Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). Give this Pinot
Noir a couple of years to knit together. Right now it’s
a little acidic, and it offers flavors of Life Savers candy,
raspberry and cherry. The mouthfeel is velvety smooth.
—S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $52
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Cru
2010
Appellation
Series
Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This
is the best of Cru’s 2010 Pinot Noirs, and it shows real
Santa Lucia complexity. It’s a dry wine, with brisk acids
and supple tannins. It has a flashy core of cherry, red
currant, licorice and smoky, sweet sandalwood flavors.
Drink this over the next 2–3 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $30
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Dutton-Goldfield 2011 Dutton Ranch
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This
Pinot Noir has deep flavors of cherry and persimmon,
plus a lush application of sweet oak. It has a sandpaperlike mouthfeel, and it might benefit from a few years in
a cellar. Otherwise, decant it for a couple hours before
serving. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
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John Tyler 2009 Bacigalupi Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This
bottling from John Tyler has been variable over the
years. The 2009 offering is dry, silky and crisp, and it
bears pleasant red currant, sour cherry candy and persimmon flavors. Drink now–2015. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $45
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Kenneth Volk 2008 Solomon Hills VIne
yard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Ripe
and extracted, this wine has cherry tart and Dr. Pepper flavors. The mouthfeel is light-bodied and silky, with
bright acidity. It finishes a bit sweet in caramelized oak,
and it seems ready to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $48
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Lost Canyon 2010 Saralee’s Vineyard Pi
not Noir (Russian River Valley). Rich and
forward in fruit, in the way of Saralee’s Pinot Noirs, with
savory raspberry and cherry jam, rhubarb pie and spice
flavors. It’s brisk in acidity and fairly tannic, but light and
delicate enough to drink now. —S.H.
Price: $45
abv: 14.4%
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Lost Canyon 2010 Whitton Vineyard Pi
not Noir (Russian River Valley). This is
tart—like a squeeze of lime was added to the wine. The
acids brighten the raspberry and persimmon flavors to
give this Pinot Noir a mouth-watering quality. The acidity is characteristic of the cool vintage and the vineyard’s
location, which is in the cool southwestern part of the
valley. Drink now–2015. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Mahoney 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Carner
os). This shows a dry, leathery flavor, plus notes
of sour cherry candy, mineral and cola. There are also
oak-derived tones of caramel and vanilla. The mouthfeel is tart and tannic, but it’s also elegant. Let this Pinot
Noir decant, which will help it mellow. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $28
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Mahoney 2010 Las Brisas Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Carneros). Tough and tightly wound,
this wine is currently marked by acids and tannins. It
may lack immediate generosity, but it does offer underlying elegance. Decanting helps mellow the cherry and
cola flavors. This will pair well with steak. —S.H.
Price: $38
abv: 13.8%
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Melville 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
Hills). This shows the elegance of Santa Rita
Hills Pinot Noir. Dry and crisp in acidity, it has complex
layers of sour cherry candy, white pepper and sandalwood, plus a touch of green herb. It evolves as it airs in
the glass. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $34
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Migration 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pi
not Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Big, rich and
flashy, this is a wine of fruit-driven power. The notes of
cherries, blackberries and currants are strong and jammy, and it’s oaky, too. The finish is tannic and dry, so you
may want to cellar it for a couple of years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
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Siduri 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). This wine combines ripe raspberry and
cherry flavors with sweet, smoky oak tones. A wine to
drink now, it shows classic Russian River acidity, and it
bears a minerally, salty profile that lends structural ele
gance. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $32
88
Summerland 2009 Solomon Hills VIne
yard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This
Pinot is rich and dense in rustic cherry and red currant
flavors. It also feels quite warm in alcohol, which makes
it almost taste like Grenache. Drink it over the next six
years. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
87
MacMurray Ranch 2010 Winemaker’s
Block Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
Pleasant acidity and a tannic edge supports the oakaccentedcherry, rhubarb, pomegranate and plum flavors. Rich and ripe, this Pinot Noir is for drinking now.
—S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $60
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Mahoney 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros).
Give this fresh Pinot Noir some time to breathe,
and then enjoy it for its brisk acidity and friendly raspberry, cherry and persimmon flavors. It has an earthiness that would pair well with mushroom risotto. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $24
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Ballard Lane 2010 Pinot Noir (Central
Coast). A full-bodied Pinot Noir, this bears
ripe cherry, red plum and tart cranberry flavors. The
considerable acidity gives it a mouth-watering bite.
Drink soon, and decant it. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
Philo Ridge 2009 Unfiltered Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). A light yet concentrated
Pinot Noir, this has a cherry flavor and a spicy texture.
Give it some air to allow the better side of its earthy aromas time to unravel. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $34
Cru 2010 Appellation Series Pinot Noir
(Santa Maria Valley). Ripe, flashy raspberry,
cherry and red currant flavors abound in this silky Pinot
Noir. It has oak-driven notes of buttered toast and wood
spice, and while it’s not especially complex, and it’s not
likely to age, it does offer immediate pleasure. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $35
Rock Wall 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). A soft, elegant Pinot Noir, this bears
flavors of cherry cola and persimmon, with accents of
sweet, buttery, toasted oak and cinnamon. Drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $35
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(Sonoma Coast). Citrusy acidity gives this
dry, silky Pinot Noir a cranberry tartness, which gets the
tastebuds whistling. Pair this with lamb, salmon or tuna
to help tame the acids. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $25
(Sonoma Coast). This Pinot is starting to
lose its primary fruit, and it’s gradually becoming mushroomy and earthy. But the raspberry and cherry flavors
are still plentiful, and the finish is dry and clean. It’s an
interesting, complex wine to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $53
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Flying Goat Cellars 2009 Bien Nacido
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley).
Big, rich and dense, this Pinot Noir shows massive,
in-your-face flavors of oak, raspberry-cherry jam and
chocolate. You can give this a few years of aging or try
decanting, but it seems best enjoyed soon for its sheer
youthful power. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $50
Alderbrook 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv
er Valley). A simple and candied Pinot Noir,
this has tasty raspberry and cherry jam flavors, plus rich,
oak-derived notes of buttered toast. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30
Artesa 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Cheerful, easy-to-like and silky, this Pinot Noir has
clean raspberry and cherry tart flavors. It has good acidity, and a long, spicy finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
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Mercy 2009 Cedar Lane Pinot Noir (Ar
royo Seco). Made in a light style, this has a
silky texture that’s marked by high acidity. It’s dry, with
sour cherry and raspberry candy flavors. Ready to drink
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
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Nice Pairing 2011 Pinot Noir (California).
This Pinot Noir offers plenty of varietal pleasure. It’s dry and crisp in acidity, with cherry skin, red
currant and cola flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $12
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Jeriko 2011 Dijon Clone Pinot Noir (Men
docino). Assertive in its earthy, barnyard-like
aromas, this biodynamic, Dijon-clone-based wine is
light on its feet. It’s ripe flavors are still developing, and
it has a finish that one wishes would linger longer. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $48
La Rochelle 2009 Sleepy Hollow Vine
yard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands).
The oak sticks out on this Pinot Noir, with a dominating
toast aroma and flavor. The underlying wine, however,
bears strong notes of red fruit and currant. Give it 2–3
years to see if the balance shifts. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $48
Siduri 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County).
With moderate alcohol and brisk acidity, this
shows the elegance of the 2011 vintage, and it offers
ripe flavors of cherries, cranberries and pomegranates.
Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $22
Three Saints 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Ma
ria Valley). This tastes a little too high in acidity, but it does show the spiciness of Santa Maria Valley
Pinot Noir. Flavors of ripe black cherry, peppercorn and
licorice are all found, and it shows a nice silkiness. Drink
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $24
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Artesa 2010 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir
(Carneros). Under all of the oak-derived buttered toast and caramel aromas and flavors exists a crisp,
clean Pinot Noir that bears notes of raspberry and cherry.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
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Cru 2010 Vineyard Montage Pinot Noir
(Central Coast). This tastes like a raspberry
and red cherry tart that has a smoky, sweet crust. The
alcohol gives the palate a pleasant warmth. It’s a simple
Pinot Noir to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $23
Fess Parker 2010 Ashley’s Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). This is too oaky, with dominating aromas and flavors of butterscotch, buttered
toast and vanilla. The oak-derived tannins are discernable, but the underlying wine is dry and crisp, with flavors of raspberries and cherries. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $50
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Flocchini 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). There’s a mushroomy earthiness that
dominates this wine’s cherry and raspberry flavors. It’s
dry, with a silky mouthfeel and brisk, cool-climate-derived acidity. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $28
Transcendence 2009 Babcock Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This tastes a little underripe, with a green note that joins the cherry
and cranberry flavors. Dry and tart, this wine should be
decanted and consumed now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
Peacock Cellars 2011 Pinot Noir (Central
Coast). This light-bodied Pinot has some good
raspberry and cherry pie flavors, as well as bright acidity.
Decant to let it breathe, and drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
Peacock Cellars 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir
(Central Coast). Strong flavors of raspberry,
cherry and oak dominate, with a hint of mushroom in
the background. It will appeal to those who like a light,
lean style of Pinot Noir. It’s ready to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
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Toretti’s 2010 Inocencio Pinot Noir (San
ta Barbara County). Sharp and minty, this
wine has some underripe notes, yet the flavor of peppery black cherry tastes jammy. The alcohol is high and
somewhat unbalanced, which gives the wine a heavy
mouthfeel. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $44
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Irony 2011 Pinot Noir (Monterey County).
This Pinot Noir shows tart, Monterey-derived
acidity, but it has enough raspberry and cherry flavors to
make it enjoyable. It feels light and silky. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
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Fort Ross 2009 Fort Ross Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is tastes a little
soft and sweet, with raspberry jam, toast and white sugar flavors. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
Mercy 2010 Griva Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Arroyo Seco). Full bodied, dry and tannic,
this Pinot Noir has cherry, berry and currant flavors. It
has bright acids, but it lacks some concentration. Drink
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $38
Parducci 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (An
derson Valley). The first Reserve released by
Parducci, this is dripping with bright cherry and strawberry flavors, and it has an earthy undertone. A trace of
spice lingers on the palate. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $33
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River Road Vineyards 2011 Reserve Pi
not Noir (Russian River Valley). This tastes
bone dry and silky, and it comes with Russian River’s
tart acidity. The cherry and cola flavors could be more
concentrated, but it does have some elegance. —S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $19
85
Shadowbox 2009 Anne Katherina Vine
yard Pinot Noir (Carneros). With its zingy
acidity and ripe raspberry and cherry flavors, this Pinot
Noir has a sweet-and-sour quality that’s reminiscent of
Chinese sauce for pork or chicken. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $50
Weibel Family 2010 Pinot Noir (Potter
Valley). Full and fleshy, this Pinot Noir has
strong black-licorice and herb components. It has a big
personality, and the alcohol seems higher than it actually is. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
Barra of Mendocino 2010 Pinot Noir
(Mendocino). A wispy Mendocino Pinot Noir,
this lacks depth and finesse. It has undertones of currant and cherry, and a wham-bam finish. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Mercy 2009 Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco).
Simple, dry and acidic, this has raspberry and
red currant flavors as well as an underripe note. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $22
syrah
94
Donelan 2010 Cuvee Keltie Syrah (So
noma County). Rich, dry and complex, this
Syrah has flavors of blackberry, currant, licorice, grilled
prosciutto, black pepper and sandalwood that are
wrapped in fine tannins. The wine is a barrel selection
of the various vineyards from which Donelan sources its
fruit. Production was exceedingly small, but it’s worth a
special search. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
94
Jonata 2007 La Sangre de Jonata (Santa
Ynez Valley). So rich and concentrated, this
blend of 97% Syrah and 3% Viognier is mind-blowing.
It has massive flavors of blackberries, cherries, dark
chocolate and spices. But it’s not just the delicious factor that grabs you, it’s how pure and balanced the tannins and acids are. —S.H.
Price: $125
abv: 14.9%
94
Prospect 772 2010 The Instigator Syrah
(Sonoma County). Powerful and decadent,
this 100% Syrah has a lush palate that comes with impressive streaks of gamy meat and earth, plus a note of
bright blackberry jam. The long, concentrated finish
bears a touch of tar. Let this relax a few years, and it will
get even better. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $36
94
Venge 2010 Stagecoach Vineyard Block
I-4 Syrah (Napa Valley). For full review see
page 5.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $54
93
Tin Barn 2010 Ricci Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Carneros). This is a simple Pinot Noir that
has raspberry and cherry jam flavors. While it has a delicate mouthfeel, it tastes candied and sweet. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $34
Patland 2008 Stagecoach Vineyard Syr
ah (Napa Valley). The fruit is sourced from a
site that straddles Atlas Peak, but the vineyard is not exclusively located there, which is why this wine is labeled
with the broad Napa Valley appellation. This 100% Syrah is extraordinarily rich, and it floods the mouth with
flavors of blackberries and black currants, plus hints of
crisp bacon and black pepper. Dry and tannic, it shows
elegance and balance, and it will develop over the next
six years. —S.H.
Price: $60
abv: 14.8%
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Fess Parker 2010 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
Hills). This tastes somewhat vegetal, with dill
and asparagus hints that are set against the cherry pie
flavor. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $30
Fess Parker 2010 Pommard Clone Pinot
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Green and mint-like in
scent, with a note that’s reminiscent of grape stem, this
Pinot Noir tastes hot from the high alcohol. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $55
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Fire and Oak 2010 Pinot Noir (Central
Coast). Dry and acidic, yet silky, this wine has
thin flavors of mint and raspberry sour candy. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $16
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Grayson 2011 Lot 5 Pinot Noir (Califor
nia). Dry, clean and tart, this has cherry, Dr.
Pepper and vanilla flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $14
Donelan 2010 Obsidian Vineyard Syrah
(Knights Valley). This Syrah feels jammy and
tannic, but beyond the toughness exist intense flavors of
blackberries and cherries that taste like they were baked
in pie crust, with additional notes of dried currant, anise, grilled meat and cedar. It’s dry and astringent, and
all indications point to its ageability. Give this 6–7 years.
Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $90
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Prospect 772 2010 The Brawler SyrahViognier (Calaveras County). A blend of
Syrah and 7% Viognier, this has a tremendous perfume
on the nose. Mouth-filling and savory, it is adorned with
flavors of mushroom, earth and black raspberry. CelWineMag.com | 53
lar this for a while, or enjoy it now with roasted game
served in a mushroom ragout. —V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $36
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Brander 2010 Colson Canyon Vineyard
Clone 877 Syrah (Santa Barbara Coun
ty). This Syrah shows ripe blackberry, mulberry and
currant flavors, plus notes of smoked meat, charred
bone, anise and black pepper. With firm tannins and
fine minerality, this clonal Syrah has great structure. It’s
terrific to drink now after some time in a decanter, and
it can also age for 6–8 more years. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $35
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Del Dotto 2006 Cinghiale Vineyard Syrah
(Sonoma Coast). Ripe, smooth and rich, this
bears flavors of milk chocolate, blackberry jam, molasses and black licorice. The tannins are thick and supple,
yet the mouthfeel remains firm. It finishes dry and spicy.
This can be consumed now with roasted meat or beef
stew. —S.H.
Price: $75
abv: NA
90
db Winery 2010 Larner Vineyard Clone
3 Reserve Syrah (Santa Barbara Coun
ty). This tastes like melted dark chocolate, blackberry
essence, blackstrap molasses, black currant and black
pepper. It’s bone dry and dramatic, with chewy tannins.
This is not a longterm ager, so drink it over the next 4–5
years, and let it spend a few hours in a decanter. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $39
90
db Winery 2010 Larner Vineyard Estrel
la Clone Reserve Syrah (Santa Barbara
County). Fruity, rich and tannic, this wine has flavors
of blackberry, molasses, dark chocolate, licorice, bacon,
smoky oak and pepper. It’s a dry, full-bodied effort that
should provide pleasant drinking over the next six years.
—S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $39
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Donelan 2010 Cuvee Christine Syrah
(Sonoma County). This 100% Syrah shows
intense blackberry, crème de cassis and plum sauce flavors, plus hints of charred bone and black pepper. It’s
dry, and the tannins are firm but supple. The alcohol is
high, but it’s balanced with the wine’s fruit. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $45
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Donelan 2010 Walker Vine Hill Syrah
(Russian River Valley). While this lacks
some of the immediate appeal of prior vintages, it’s a
better structured wine, with tannins and a rich vein of
acidity that gives a framework to the flavors of black
berries, roasted meats, currants and pepper. Give this
3–4 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $45
90
Estate Vineyard Syrah (Russian River
Valley). This is a notable wine for its smooth, supple
tannins and its intense flavors of black cherry jam, mocha, bacon, black pepper and sandalwood. It’s a fullbodied selection for drinking soon, and be sure to pair it
with almost anything involving cured meat. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $28
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Peloton 2009 Laetitia Vineyard Syrah (Ar
royo Grande Valley). This exceedingly rich
wine is produced from fruit grown in the cool-climate
Laetitia Vineyard, which is better known for Pinot Noir
than for Syrah. The maritime influence can be tasted in
the acidity, which is bright and citrusy, and it provides
a firm backbone to the ripe black-cherry, red currant,
licorice, bacon, black pepper and cedar flavors. Drink
this over the next five years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Stolpman 2010 Estate Syrah (Santa Ynez
Valley). Although it’s pretty tannic, with a furry
quality throughout, this is pretty easy to drink. The flavors of blackberry jam, chocolate, bacon, black pepper
and sandalwood are elaborate and rich. It might pick up
some bottle complexity over the next 3–4 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
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Transcendence 2009 Syrah (Santa Ynez
Valley). This is high in alcohol, but it will easily pair with barbecue. It’s made from fruit grown in the
warm Larner Vineyard in Santa Ynez Valley as well as
from the cool Lafond Vineyard in Santa Rita Hills. Rich,
dry and complex, it offers brisk, citrusy acidity to offset the ripe blackberry, currant and sandalwood flavors.
—S.H.
Price: $28
abv: 15.1%
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Chateau Lettau 2010 Secret Stash Hal
ter Ranch Vineyard Reserve Syrah (Paso
Robles). This is a rich Syrah, with flavors of milk
chocolate, blackberry jam, bacon and pepper that are
wrapped in smooth, thick tannins. It tastes a little sweet,
and it would be great paired with barbecued ribs that
are slathered in sauce. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Jorian Hill 2009 Syrah (Santa Ynez Val
ley). A dry, rich 100% Syrah, this showcases the
classic Santa Ynez structure of firm tannins and crisp
acids, and it offers deep flavors of blackberry, cassis and
bacon. This 2009 is Jorian Hill’s best effort yet, and it’s
already delicious to drink. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $24
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Melville 2011 Estate Verna’s Syrah (San
ta Barbara County). This Syrah shows just a
touch of smokiness. It has vital acids and furry tannins
that structure the cherry pie flavor. Great for drinking
now if you’re looking for a medium-bodied selection.
—S.H.
Price: $26
abv: 14%
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Brander 2010 Colson Canyon Vineyard
Clone 7 Syrah (Santa Barbara County).
Can Syrah get any richer than this wine? It has massive flavors of chocolate, licorice, blackberry pie, brown
sugar, exotic spice and sandalwood that taste sweet yet
finish dry and smooth. The tannins are so thick, you
will need steak or lamb to wrestle them to the ground.
Drink now–2016. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $30
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db Winery 2010 Larner Vineyard Syrah
(Santa Barbara County). Currently, this Syrah has tough tannins that seem stringy and chewy. But
the blackberry, black currant and dark chocolate flavors
are plentiful. Cellar this for one or two years. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30
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Nottingham Cellars 2010 Micro-Lot Re
serve Hayes Ranch Syrah (Livermore
Valley). Rich and concentrated, this Syrah is aged in
French oak, and it offers flavors of bacon, smoky oak,
tar and leather. It’s big and expressive, and it could use
some time to open. Pair it with smoky meats that are big
in flavor. —V.B.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $40
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Tin Barn 2008 Coryelle Fields Vineyard
Syrah (Sonoma Coast). This has intense acids and tannins that make it feel a bit rustic. But despite
the structure, it has delicious, upfront flavors of blackberry, plum, currant, beef jerky, sweet oak and pepper.
Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
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Wellington 2008 Estate Vineyard Syrah
(Sonoma Valley). Dry and tannic, this Syrah
offers rich, spicy notes of blackberry, currant and leather. Drink it now with grilled lamb. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $25
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Fess Parker 2010 Syrah (Santa Barbara
County). Complex, rich flavors of mulberry,
cola, leather, pepper and sandalwood mark this dry, tannic Syrah. The texture is aggressive, with jagged tannins.
Ready to drink. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $28
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Flocchini 2010 Saddle-Up Syrah (So
noma Coast). This feels a bit tough and gritty,
with stringy tannins that give the palate a rustic texture.
The flavors are ripe, with notes of cherries, licorice and
mocha. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $22
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noma Coast). Seemingly sweet and mellow,
this tastes like white toast that has been spread with
raspberry jam and butter, sprinkled with cinnamon and
brown sugar. It’s already drinking well. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $22
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Mercy 2009 Zabala Vineyard Syrah (Ar
royo Seco). A vigorous, aggressive Syrah, this
is full bodied and tannic, and it deals assertive blackberry, cherry, currant and sandalwood flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $28
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Shadowbox 2009 Mountain Terraces
Vineyard Syrah (Sonoma Valley). The
mouthfeel is a little gritty and rough in this 100% Syrah.
It has a toothpick-like woodiness that likely comes from
having aged in 50% new oak. Underneath the oak are
flavors of blackberry, leather and anise. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $44
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Wellington 2008 Englandcrest Syrah (So
noma Valley). Impenetrably black in color,
this Syrah feels bone dry and tannic. It has all of the
hallmarks of an ageable wine, but the concentration of
blackberry and currant flavors is unlikely to outlast the
tannins. Drink this over the next few years. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $18
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White Oak 2009 Syrah (Napa Valley).
There’a soft sweetness to this wine that makes
it immediately drinkable. The flavors are suggestive of
ripe red cherry, red licorice, red currant liqueur, mocha
and sweet oak. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $26
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Flocchini 2011 Syrah (Sonoma Coast).
Dry and tannic, this has a sharp, green texture
and flavor that hems in the blackberry and cherry notes.
It’s a wine to drink with a burger or a meat loaf. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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noma Coast). There’s a sharpness to this Syrah that cuts across the palate like a knife. Even so, it
has ripe flavors of berries, cherries and currants. Pair it
with rich, fatty foods, like cheeseburgers, to help tame
the acids. —S.H.
Price: $22
abv: 14.9%
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Flocchini 2007 Saddle Up Syrah (So
noma Coast). Soft and already easy to drink,
this exhibits California ripeness, and it offers cherry pie,
chocolate and red licorice flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $22
85
Gregory Graham 2008 Crimson Hill Vine
yard Estate Syrah (Red Hills Lake Coun
ty). Made from fruit grown at a high elevation and in
volcanic soil, this is a leathery, full-bodied tannic Syrah.
A taste of roasted coffee marks the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
85
Joseph Swan Vineyards 2007 Great Oak
Vineyard Syrah (Russian River Valley).
This tastes overripe and Port-like. The flavors are of raisins, currants, licorice and sweet caramelized oak. This
is unlikely to evolve positively, so drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
85
Sage Road 2010 Syrah (Arroyo Grande
Valley). Tough, dry and gritty, this Syrah has
stringy tannins and citrusy acids. Its austerity is relieved
by the blackberry and black currant flavors. Pair this
with rich, fatty meats and cheeses to help soften the
mouthfeel. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $20
85
Three Saints 2009 Syrah (Happy Canyon
of Santa Barbara). This Syrah is easy to drink
with barbecue, beef, lamb stew or other robust dishes.
It’s dry and savory, with black pepper, blackberry, currant and jerky flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $18
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Parkers Estate 2011 Riverside Crossing
Syrah (North Coast). Red fruit dominant,
this tight Syrah also offers whiffs of grenadine and perfume. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $20
grenache
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Andis 2011 Grenache (Amador County).
A structured, mountain-grown Grenache, with
20% Syrah in the mix, this features cherry cola, black
tea and meat flavors, plus oak tones and docile tannins.
It’s ready to drink, but it’s built to age for another 3–5
years. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
90
Rock Wall 2010 Monte Rosso Vineyard
Reserve Zinfandel (Sonoma County). A
Zinfandel of sheer power, this is demonstrative of Rock
Wall’s style. The alcohol is very high, which brings heat
and sweetness to the flavors of ripe blackberries, currants, anise and pepper. A touch of oak adds a mellow
toastiness. Drink this now with rich stews and barbecued meats. —S.H.
abv: 15.9%
Price: $40
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Horse & Plow 2011 Testa Vineyard Old
Vine Grenache (Mendocino). There’s not a
lot of old-vine Grenache in California, so this Horse &
Plow selection made from Testa Vineyard fruit is worth
the hunt. It’s a bright, food-friendly wine, and it offers
light layers of raspberry and violet flavors. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $27
Wellington 2009 Estate Vineyard Gre
nache (Sonoma Valley). High alcohol makes
this Grenache seem hot and sweet in glycerine. It tastes
candied, with cherry pie and red licorice flavors. —S.H.
Price: $25
abv: 15.4%
Petite Sirah
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Kokomo 2009 Petite Sirah (Dry Creek
Valley). This feels bone dry and tannic, and it
has a ripe core of blackberry, mulberry and raisin flavors, with some bitterness on the finish. It is a sturdy
wine, and while it’s not an ager, it will pair well with rich
barbecue. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $32
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Rock Wall 2010 Jack’s Vineyard Petite
Sirah (Dry Creek Valley). Clean and dry, this
Petite Sirah has aggressive tannins and overripe currant
and prune flavors. The high alcohol gives it a jalapeñolike burn. —S.H.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $35
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Tower 15 2010 Petite Sirah (Paso Ro
bles). A heavy, dull wine, this is dry and tannic, and it offers blackberry, cassis and cedar flavors that
seem thin. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $18
zinfandel
Wellington 2008 Meeks Hilltop Ranch
Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). Soft, fruity and
spicy, this Zinfandel is starting to pick up some bottleage notes. The currant and black raspberry flavors are
joined by sautéed mushroom and charred bone accents.
The rich tannins suggest pairing it with roasted or barbecued meats. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $25
Rock Wall 2010 Sven & Ole’s Reserve
Zinfandel (California). Fans of powerful,
fruit-driven Zinfandel will exult in this monster of a
wine. It is an explosion of blueberry, raspberry, plum,
blackberry, chocolate-covered raisin and sandalwood
flavors. This is tannic, and the high alcohol gives it a
glycerine-driven sweetness. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $60
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Navarro 2010 Zinfandel (Mendocino).
This is a balanced Zinfandel, and it offers elegant acids and burly red and black fruits. It’s a structured effort, and it emits a subtle spice character. This
will pair well with foods like pizza and pasta. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $20
88
Rock Wall 2010 Rockpile Road West
phall Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel (Sonoma
County). There’s nothing shy about this Zinfandel. A
kick in the teeth, this exudes the concentrated fruit of
Sonoma County’s Rockpile area. It has hard tannins,
and it’s front-loaded with currant, licorice and tobacco
flavors. Pair this with intensely-flavored, spicy grilled
meats. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $40
87
Boneshaker 2010 Zinfandel (Lodi). For
full review see page 9.
abv: 15%
Price: $25
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Elyse 2009 Korte Ranch Zinfandel (St.
Helena). Elyse has emerged as one of the most
dependable producers of Zinfandel in California. This
wine shows some overripeness in the raisin flavor, but
there are plenty of blueberry jam, chocolate, baking
spice and sandalwood notes. The tannins are firm yet
supple. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $37
Joseph Swan Vineyards 2007 Mancini
Ranch Zinfandel (Russian River Valley).
This Zinfandel’s tannins are starting to resolve, which
gives the palate a soft, melted quality. The primary flavors are transforming into rich, dried black-raspberry
and cherry notes, with leather, mocha, dried mushroom
and spice accents. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $28
Rock Wall 2011 Alegria Vineyard Zinfan
del (Russian River Valley). This Zinfandel
is a bit high in alcohol, which gives it a rustic-like heat.
It’s dry, and while the tannins are firm, they’re supple.
Somewhat overripe, this has flavors of blackberry jam,
prune, plum and mocha. Fans of big, full-bodied wines
will love it. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $25
Weibel Family 2009 Zinfandel (Mendoci
no County). Thick, rich and almost cordiallike, this has generous fruit and oak components. It’s
ready to be paired with a peppered steak. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
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Benessere 2009 Black Glass Vineyard
Estate Zinfandel (Napa Valley). While this
wine has Napa elegance, it never completely loses the
varietal’s rustic edge. It’s rich in briary berries, cola, toWineMag.com | 55
bacco and white pepper flavors, and it comes with an
overripe, raisiny sweetness. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $35
Port-like heat. With its raisin and chocolate flavors, this
is Mazzocco’s signature style. —S.H.
abv: 16.4%
Price: $52
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Dry Creek Vineyard 2010 Heritage Zin
fandel (Sonoma County). Robust and spicy,
this is a Zinfandel to pair with barbecued ribs, burgers
and beef tacos. It has flavors of blackberries, green peppercorns and toast. Drink this over the next two years
for maximum freshness. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
86
Twisted 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel (Califor
nia). For full review see page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $8
86
Zynthesis 2011 Zinfandel (Lodi). Loaded
with vibrant jammy fruit, this is a bright Zinfandel that has a smoky grilled-meat note on the finish. Pair
this with meaty dishes. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $11
85
Brazin 2009 Monte Rosso Vineyard Zin
fandel (Sonoma Valley). High alcohol gives
this dry, tannic wine some heat, and the overripe fruit
lends a raisiny, pruny tinge to the blackberry flavor.
—S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
85
Rock Wall 2010 Stagecoach Vineyard
Zinfandel (Napa Valley). Stagecoach is a
highly regarded vineyard, but this Zinfandel doesn’t
show it at its best. This wine is too high in alcohol, and
it has Port-like prune and blackberry flavors. It has hard
tannins that surface without sweetness. —S.H.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $40
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Mazzocco 2010 Seaton Zinfandel (Dry
Creek Valley). Made in the Mazzocco style of
high alcohol and superripeness, this Zinfandel, which
contains a splash of Petite Sirah, tastes like Port. The
flavors of raisins and currants dominate, and it bears
glycerine sweetness and jalapeño-like heat. —S.H.
abv: 16%
Price: $32
83
Four Vines 2010 Truant Zinfandel (Cali
fornia). A clean, everyday Zinfandel, this shows
the varietal’s full body, tannins and spiciness. The flavors are of raspberries, cherries, cola, olives and pepper. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
83
Girasole Vineyards 2009 Zinfandel (Men
docino). A fairly tannic Zinfandel, this is made
from organic grapes. Enjoy with pizza or hamburgers.
—V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
83
Kokomo 2010 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Val
ley). This Zinfandel is a bit rustic, with a jagged
mouthfeel. It offers sweet-tasting varietal flavors of wild
berry, spice and tobacco, plus a touch of prune. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $28
83
Mazzocco 2010 Smith Orchard Reserve
Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). The high alcohol gives this wine glycerine-driven sweetness and
Mazzocco 2010 Briar Zinfandel (Dry
Creek Valley). This Zinfandel tastes and feels
hot and Port-like. While some people enjoy this style, it
feels a bit clumsy and overripe. Nonetheless, the blackberry, raisin and chocolate flavors are tasty. —S.H.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $32
81
Tin Barn 2010 Gilsson Vineyard Zinfan
del (Russian River Valley). This tastes sweet
and hot, which gives the flavors of blackberry and raisin
a Port-like character. —S.H.
abv: 16%
Price: $27
80
Tin Barn 2010 Los Chamizal Vineyard
Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). This Zinfandel
is alcoholic, and it’s dominated by overripe prune and
raisin flavors. —S.H.
Price: $28
abv: 15.5%
cabernet sauvignon
97
Goldschmidt 2009 Game Ranch Single
Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville). For full review see page 3.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $85
superb structure and massive flavors of sweet blackberry jam, black currants, dark chocolate and smoky oak.
It shows the depth and concentration of the notable
Stagecoach Vineyard, and it should easily hold and develop in the bottle over the next 10 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $90
94
Tudal 2010 Clift Vineyard Cabernet Sau
vignon (Oak Knoll). For full review see page
4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $42
94
4.
abv: 14.9%
Corley 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (Napa Valley). For full review see page
5. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $80
93
Corley 2009 State Lane Vineyard Caber
net Sauvignon (Yountville). This is an impressive 100% Cabernet that will reward some time in
the cellar. It shows the dryness, hard tannins, full body
and classic black currant and cedar flavors characteristic
of the varietal. There is no doubt about its ageability, so
hold until 2017, at least. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $72
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Jonata 2007 El Desafio de Jonata (Santa
Ynez Valley). This wine’s blackberry and currant flavors are concentrated and ripe, and the notes of
toasty new oak and chocolate gently ride over the fruit
rather than overwhelming it. The spiced and sweet-tasting finish lasts for a full minute. Made from 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is one of the best Bordeaux-style
wines from Santa Ynez Valley. Drink now–2015. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $125
95
ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4.
Price: $90
abv: 14.8%
Price: $55
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World’s End 2009 Good Times, Bad
Times Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For full review see
page 3.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $100
Venge 2010 Silencieux Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (Napa Valley). For full review see page
Smith-Madrone 2007 Estate Bottled Cab
ernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). For
full review see page 5. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
Terlato 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Ruth
erford). Rich and ripe, this Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant wine is filled out with Merlot and Cabernet Franc. It has enormous flavors of cherry tart,
cassis, mocha and toast, and they seem to change with
every sip. The tannin structure is smooth, with a dusty
astringency that provides grip. Already excellent, this
should develop bottle complexity over the next 6–8
years. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $60
92
Venge 2010 Bone Ash Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Calistoga). For full review see
abv: 14.9%
Price: $85
Bougetz 2010 Eminence Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (Napa Valley). This dry, complex Cabernet Sauvignon bears classic Napa tannins, plus layers
of blackberry, black currant, violet, mineral and cedar
flavors. The grapes were grown in the Coombsville
area. Drink now, after decanting, and continue to drink
it through 2016. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $55
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Napa Angel by Montes 2008 Aurelio’s
Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). This is as soft and luscious as velvet, and it
offers smooth, rich tannins that frame the oak-tinged
blackberry, black currant, anise and dark chocolate flavors. Its richness comes with high alcohol, which gives it
a slight warmth on the finish. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $90
94
ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This has
Monticello 2009 Tietjen Vineyard Caber
net Sauvignon (Rutherford). Made from
100% Cabernet, this is a classic Napa Valley wine. It’s
dry, but the fruit is sweetly ripe, and it has firm, supple
tannins and balancing acids. The rich flavors are of dark
chocolate and black currants, with a heady note of summer blueberries. This will evolve over the years, but it’s
best enjoyed soon for its sheer deliciousness. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $72
91
Corley 2009 Yewell Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (St. Helena). This 100% Caber-
net Sauvignon has massive waves of blackberry, black
currant and chocolate flavors that take over the palate,
plus a sweet note of toast from the oak. It’s very tannic,
which gives the mouthfeel an astringent hardness, so try
giving it 6–8 years in a cellar, and it may even show well
in 12–15 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $72
91
World’s End 2009 Crossfire Beckstoffer
Missouri Hopper Vineyard Cabernet Sau
vignon (Oakville). Lush and decadent, this wine has
blackberry and blueberry jam, milk chocolate and toasty
oak flavors. And even with all of the richness, the finish
is dry and tannic. The gripping tannins suggest it can
age for for 5–6 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $85
is now more oriented to Pinot Noir. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $20
lar and tannic, so it might benefit from a few years in a
cellar. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
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White Oak 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Full bodied and softly tannic,
this wine’s fruit is front and center, wrapped in a subtle
jacket of sweet oak. It dazzles with blackberries, cherries, raspberries, currants and chocolate flavors. Drink
now for its sheer lusciousness. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
Geyser Peak 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Alexander Valley). For full review see page
10. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
90
Barrel Ranch 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). This selection is from Terravant
Wine Company, a custom-crush facility in Santa Barbara County. Dry and tannic, it shows classic Cabernet
Sauvignon character. It has a smoothness often associated with Napa Valley wines and flavors of blackberry,
black currant and oak. Best Buy. —S.H.
Price: $13
abv: 14.3%
89
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Donati 2010 Ezio Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paicines). For full review see page 7.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $40
90
Geyser Peak 2009 Block Collection Walk
ing Tree Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander
Valley). For full review see page 7.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
90
Napa Angel by Montes 2008 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Rich and ripe,
this has liberally oaked flavors of blackberry jam, black
currant, dark chocolate and anise. It shows Napa Valley
pedigree, but it’s tannic now, with mouth-numbing astringency. Try holding this until 2016, then give it a decanting. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $56
90
Swanson 2009 Alexis Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (Napa Valley). This is Swanson’s top
Cabernet, which includes a splash of Merlot. As always,
it’s rich, tannic and dry, and it possesses a deep core of
blackberry and black currant flavors. It seems more tannic and sharp than in previous vintages, which suggests
its ageability. Try holding it until 2015. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $75
90
Wellington 2007 Mohrhardt Ridge Caber
net Sauvignon (Sonoma Coast). Here’s a
big, ripe and dry Cabernet with flavors of blackberry,
molasses and dark chocolate that seem almost overripe
due to a touch of raisin. Tannic and full bodied, it’s too
robust to drink now, so give it 6–8 years in a cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $25
90
Wellington 2002 Mohrhardt Ridge Caber
net Sauvignon (Sonoma Coast). This Cabernet has rich blackberry-jam and black licorice flavors,
and it also has a funky bacon note. The oak provides a
pleasant backdrop of sweet toast. This shows how well
Cabernet can perform on the far Sonoma Coast, which
Rock Wall 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). This is hard in tannins and firm
in acidity, which gives it fine structure. It’s not shy in flavor, and it offers waves of blackberries, black currants
and cassis liqueur, plus a note of toasty new oak. While it
could develop well with age, the forward fruit suggests
drinking it over the next five years. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 14.2%
Wellington 2007 Karren Vineyard Caber
net Sauvignon (Sonoma Mountain). Inky
black in hue, this wine is enormously tannic, which gives
it a mouth-numbing astringency. Along with the structure, it has a gigantic, sweet-tasting core of blackberry
jam and currant flavors, which breaks through the bitterness. Everything suggests ageability; it should mellow after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $30
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Wellington 1994 Mohrhardt Ridge Cab
ernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). The
grapes used to make this wine were sourced from the
Fort Ross area of the far Sonoma Coast. The wine has
thick, supple tannins and fine acidity. It shows earthy
flavors of black currant, charred meat and cedar. Give
it some airing, and drink it with steaks and chops. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Cenay 2010 Blue Tooth Vineyard Caber
net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Dry and tannic, this Cabernet has of ripe flavors of black currant,
plum, dark chocolate, licorice and cedar. The texture
feels a little jagged, so give it a few hours in a decanter,
and drink it now–2016. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
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Ehret 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights
Valley). This is surprisingly tough and tannic for a 2007, but it does show the vintage’s impressive fruit flavors. Notes of blackberry and cherry jam
are complexed by touches of cassis liqueur and smoky
cedar. The tannins will need to be tamed by rich, fatty
fare, like grilled steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $34
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Aje 2008 Ellen’s Vineyard Cabernet Sau
vignon (Alexander Valley). Rich and fruity,
this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is filled with ripe blackberry, black currant and spice flavors. It’s a little angu-
BonAnno 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Blackberry, currant, herb and
cedar flavors abound in this dry, tannic Cabernet Sauvignon. It shows Napa Valley class, and with 6,000 cases
produced, it should be relatively easy to find. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
Bougetz 2010 Amaryllis Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (Spring Mountain). This shows an oldfashioned Spring Mountain dryness and tannic astringency, which makes it hard to enjoy at the moment. Decant it for several hours to let it mellow so you can enjoy
the deep core of black currant flavor. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $55
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Kelleher 2008 Brix Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Oakville). Sweet-tasting blackberry-jam, cassis liqueur and chocolate flavors abound
in this oaky Cabernet. It’s a little one-dimensional and
high in alcohol, so drink soon. —S.H.
Price: $88
abv: 15%
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Aje 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexan
der Valley). Heavy, dense and dry, this Cabernet Sauvignon is stuffed with blackberry, currant, anise
and licorice flavors, and it shows plenty of oak influence.
It’s also fairly tannic. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
86
Avalon 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali
fornia). For full review see page 10. Best Buy.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $10
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Donati 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Pa
icines). Dry and tannic, yet smooth, this deals
earthy flavors of blackberries, currants, licorice and cedar. Drink now for its freshness. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
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Faust 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). This is less ripe compared to many other Napa Cabernets, and it deals dry flavors of tobacco,
herb, blackberry and currant. It’s pretty tannic, which
gives it some toughness that is unrelieved by richness.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $55
86
Purple Cowboy 2010 Trail Boss Cabernet
Sauvignon (Paso Robles). For full review
see page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
86
Ramspeck 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). A solid Cabernet for drinking
now, this is dry and tannic, yet it has sweet-tasting blackberry and cherry flavors, plus a rich coating of smoky
oak. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $29
86
Wellington 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Sonoma County). A little on the sweet-tasting side, this Cabernet Sauvignon abounds with flavors
of blackberry and cherry pie filling, which give it a direct, candied taste. The tannins and acids are superior,
WineMag.com | 57
and the wine should benefit from 3–4 years in a cellar.
—S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $22
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Wellington 1989 Mohrhardt Ridge Cab
ernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This
Cabernet remains tough in tannins and a little harsh in
acidity. The blackberry, roasted meat, pepper and toast
flavors are rich and complex. —S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $14
85
Elements 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (So
noma County). Spicy and fruity, rich and full
bodied, this has blackberry, cherry, currant, licorice and
cedar flavors. Let it breathe for a while to allow the tannins to soften. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $18
85
Glenwood 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). This has dry, edgy tannins that
make the palate feel a bit rough. It has rich, forward flavors of blackberries and oak. —S.H.
Price: $25
abv: 14.4%
85
dot, this complex wine is rich and softly tannic. It shows
the fat, fleshy appeal of Cabernet Franc from the great
2007 vintage, and it has developed a mellowness from
bottle age. It still offers oak-infused blackberry, cherry and dark chocolate flavors, plus emerging notes of
herbs. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $125
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Oakville East 2010 Franc ’N Stern Cab
ernet Franc (Oakville). This elaborate wine
offers delicious cherry-pie, mocha, red currant and sandalwood flavors. The tannins are smooth and flashy, and
it’s easy to drink. But it shows the limits of Cabernet
Franc, which simply doesn’t have the depth of Cabernet
Sauvignon. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
88
Rock Wall 2010 Holbrook Mitchell Caber
net Franc (Napa Valley). This 100% Cabernet Franc shows the high alcohol, full body and concentrated power expected from a Rock Wall bottling. It’s
dry with fuzzy tannins, and it has rich, complex flavors of
cherry, red licorice, Canadian bacon, anise and crushed
peppercorn. Decant it for a few hours, and enjoy it now
with a steak. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 15%
Grayson 2011 Lot 10 Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (California). Dry and smooth, this fullbodied Cabernet has spicy cherry-pie, plum and cedar
flavors. It makes for a party wine. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $10
merlot
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Picket Fence 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Alexander Valley). Good for everyday drinking, this Cabernet has smooth, dusty tannins. The black
cherry, tobacco and herb flavors are ready to drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
85
Shadowbox 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). This feels sharp and raw, with
ripe, jammy blackberry and cherry flavors, plus a streak
of sweet, toasty oak. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
85
Three Saints 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). A rugged Cabernet Sauvignon for everyday drinking, this is
dry and smoothly tannic, and it deals blackberry jam,
sage and cedar flavors. —S.H.
Price: $22
abv: 14.9%
Rutherford Hill 2009 Reserve Merlot
(Napa Valley). While this doesn’t quite rival
the great 2007, it is superior to the 2008. Rich, concentrated and structured, this has forward black-cherry, chocolate, anise and sandalwood flavors that are
wrapped in firm but smooth, supple tannins. It should
develop in the bottle over the next six years, but it can
also be consumed now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
91
Shafer 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). It’s important to not drink this Merlot right out of the
bottle, because it’s pretty tannic, and thus it’s hard to appreciate the wine’s beautiful fruit. Give it some time in
a decanter to reveal the complex flavors of blackberry,
cherry jam, grilled prosciutto, cassis, red licorice, cola
and spice. It’s unclear if this will age for a long time,
but it can certainly be enjoyed over the next five years.
—S.H.
Price: $50
abv: 15.3%
Swanson 2009 Merlot (Oakville). Rich
black-cherry, currant, licorice, spice and sandalwood flavors abound in this dry Merlot. It’s pretty
tannic, with a gum-sticking astringency. It’s unlikely that
this will age well, so drink it now, after decanting, and
pair it with rich meats. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $38
Ramspeck 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley).
This is a lusty, softly tannic Merlot that has flavors of cherry jam, mocha, red licorice and vanilla. It
shows some elegance and complexity. Drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
87
Rutherford Hill 2009 Merlot (Napa Val
ley). This dry Merlot is marked by strong tannins and ripe fruit. It shows bursts of black cherry, currant, cola and cedar flavors, and it has an astringent texture that’s unlikely to age away. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $25
87
Schug 2009 Merlot (Sonoma Valley). An
earthy Merlot, this has tobacco and dried sage
flavors, plus black cherry and currant notes. It’s dry and
tannic, but it’s not one to age. Let it breathe for at least
30 minutes before serving. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
87
White Oak 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley).
Smooth, rich and mellow, this has flavors of
chocolate, raspberry, cherry and buttered toast that almost taste sweet. The tannins and acids eventually kick
in, and the finish turns nicely dry. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $26
85
Elements 2010 Merlot (Sonoma County).
Rich, sweet-tasting flavors of black cherry jam,
licorice and cedar abound in this dry, tannic Merlot. It
feels a bit rough on the palate, so let it breathe in a decanter before drinking. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $18
85
One And Done 2009 Merlot (California).
Dry and full-bodied, this clean Merlot has
enough varietal character to satisfy. It offers blackberry
and currant flavors that are touched by a bit of oak. Best
Buy. —S.H.
Price: $10
abv: 13.8%
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Relic 2009 Artefact Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Overripe and Port-like, this has
chocolate, raisin and blackberry jam flavors. It’s rich,
and it has a prickly heat that comes from the high alcohol. —S.H.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $75
Cookies & Cream 2010 Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (California). Dry and tannic, this has
adequate blackberry, currant and oak flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $10
cabernet franc
96
Jonata 2007 El Alma de Jonata (Santa
Ynez Valley). Based on Cabernet Franc, with
splashes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Ver-
Terlato 2009 Angels’ Peak (Napa Valley).
For maximum enjoyment, drink this almost allMerlot blend now. It shows ripe, lush black-cherry, red
currant, plum and bacon flavors that finish spicy and
sweet tasting. The tannins are thick but smooth. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
Yates Family Vineyard 2009 Fleur de
Veeder Merlot (Mount Veeder). Made from
100% Merlot, this shows the enormous fruit of Mount
Veeder. The cherry and blackberry flavors are concentrated and pure, and there are liqueur-like notes of cassis and anise, plus a sweet toast accent from the oak. It’s
dry and quite tannic, but not to the extreme that it can’t
be consumed now. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $40
Purple Cowboy 2010 Night Rider Merlot
(Paso Robles). Sweet-tasting, jammy raspberry and cherry flavors abound in this Merlot. It should
be easy to drink with burgers, enchiladas or ribs slathered in barbecue sauce. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
Bota Box 2011 Merlot (California). For full
review see page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 13%
Price: $21/3 L
84
Donati 2010 Merlot (Paicines). Give this
Merlot some time to breathe before serving.
Right out of the bottle, it’s tough, gritty and tannic. It
will never be a mellow wine, but it does have nice blackcherry and licorice flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
84
Grayson 2011 Lot 6 Merlot (California).
This wine has the weight and silkiness of a Pinot Noir, but it has Merlot’s cherry, currant and anise
flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $10
81
Wild Brush Cellars 2011 Tumbleweed
Vineyard Merlot (California). This bubblegum-like Merlot has candied red-currant, vanilla and
white sugar flavors. The acidity seems harsh. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
red blends
95
Terlato 2009 Episode (Napa Valley). Terlato’s focus on Bordeaux-style red wines has
paid off in the last several vintages, and this blend of
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot continues the success streak. It has ripe, spicy flavors of blackberry jam, black currant and sweet, toasty oak, and the
tannin-acid structure is balanced. Still, it’s an astringent
wine that needs time in the cellar, so give it at least eight
years. It could age well beyond that. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
Price: $175
abv: 14.4%
95
Terlato 2009 Galaxy (Napa County). A
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot, this is dry, smooth, rich and delicious, and it offers
waves of ripe blackberry, crème de cassis, dark chocolate and charred meat flavors, plus the spiciness of
sweet licorice and pepper. It can be consumed now, but
it will also develop for 3–4 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $85
94
Geyser Peak 2007 Reserve Alexandre
Meritage (Alexander Valley). For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
94
Thomas Fogarty 2007 Lexington Mer
itage (Santa Cruz Mountains). Opulent,
smooth and ageable, this Cabernet Sauvignon-based
blend is rich in blackberries, currants and milk chocolate, and it exudes a green olive tanginess that increases
the pleasure. The tannins are thick but supple. This is a
wine that pleases right away, and it changes from sip to
sip as it breathes. As excellent as it is now, it will develop
bottle complexity for at least 10 more years. —S.H.
Price: $60
abv: 14.8%
94
Wellington 2007 Victory Reserve Mer
itage (Sonoma County). This is one of the
best Bordeaux-style blends Wellington has ever produced. Although it still has plenty of life ahead, perhaps
as much as 10 more years, its soft tannins and sweet
black-currant flavor make it drinkable now. Only 471
cases were produced, but it’s worth the hunt. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
93
Constant 2007 Diamond Mountain Vine
yard MF Claret (Napa Valley). This dry, lush
wine has deep flavors and dramatic layers of blackberry
and cherry tart flavors that have a liqueur-like density
and sweetness, accented by a toasty, buttery oak note.
The tannins are pure, thick and refined. This needs time
for all of its parts to come together, so hold it until 2015,
but it could last for a decade or more. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $130
93
Ferrari-Carano 2009 Trésor Red Wine
(Sonoma County). For full review see page 5.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $52
93
Patland 2009 Terra Del Cuore (Napa Val
ley). Power and depth mark this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Syrah. Midnight black in
color, this has thick tannins, and sweet and savory flavors
of blackberry jam, chocolate, bacon, black pepper and
vanilla. It should continue to develop over the next six
years, at least. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $60
92
Benessere 2008 Phenomenon (Napa Val
ley). There is a ton of black pepper flavor in this
stylish blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah. It also bears notes of licorice, sweet red
currants, grilled prosciutto and sandalwood. This tastes
so rich that it almost seems sweet, but it’s actually dry
and balanced. —S.H.
Price: $50
abv: 14.5%
92
Jonata 2007 Todos Red Wine (Santa
Ynez Valley). Made from mostly Syrah and
Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a compelling wine to drink
now. It exudes concentrated flavors of raspberry and
cherry that taste like they have been baked in pie crust
and sprinkled with baking spice. Notes of bacon, licorice and sandalwood add further complexity. The structure is superb, with citrusy acids and supple tannins. All
profits from the sale of this wine go to Jonata’s vineyard
crew. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $50
92
Prospect 772 2010 The Brat GrenacheSyrah (Calaveras County). Concentrated
and bright, this blend of 63% Grenache and 37% Syrah
has deep flavors of strawberry and licorice. Ready to age
for several years, it has a mountain’s worth of tannins,
and yet it is incredibly light on its feet. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $36
92
World’s End 2009 Wavelength Sugar
loaf Mountain Vineyard Syrah-Cabernet
Franc (Napa Valley). This is one of the most successful Syrah-Cabernet Franc blends in California. The
Syrah brings blueberry and bacon flavors, and the Cabernet provides the black currant note and the tannic
backbone. It’s already delicious to drink, but allow it to
breathe in a decanter for one or two hours. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $69
91
Terlato 2009 Cardinals’ Peak (Napa Val
ley). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and Cabernet Franc exemplifies the Terlato style, which
is classic, complex and drinkable early. It has rich, thick
tannins and flavors of blackberries, mocha and cedar.
The finish is long and spicy. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
91
Wallis Family Estate 2010 Little Sister
Proprietary Red Wine (Diamond Moun
tain). For full review see page 7.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $45
90
Ancient Peaks 2009 Oyster Ridge (Paso
Robles). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and Malbec, this is bone dry and
full bodied, and it strikes the palate with rustic tannins.
It has a complexity that’s hard to define, and it will pair
well with grilled meats or stews. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
90
Terlato 2009 Devils’ Peak (Napa Valley).
This Cabernet Franc-based blend has rich flavors of red and black cherry jam, cherry liqueur and tobacco. The oak influence shows in the form of toastiness
and wood spiciness. With its smooth tannins, this wine
will drink well now with a great steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $48
90
Tiedemann 2009 Signature Series (Napa
Valley). This is a blend that’s based on Cabernet Sauvignon, and it has some Petite Sirah in the
mix. It’s dry and tannic, and it offers deep, ripe flavors
of blackberry jam, black currant and cedar, as well as
a salty grilled-meat note that’s reminiscent of charred
beef fat. This will pair well with grilled steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
88
Chateau Lettau 2007 Rockstar (Monterey
County). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petite Sirah, this has firm tannins and ripe, forward flavors of blackberries, currants and oak. Already
throwing some sediment, it will continue to soften and
mellow over the next 5–6 years. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $28
88
Conn Creek 2009 Anthology (Napa Val
ley). Sweet and savory, this has flavors of red
cherry tart, red currant, licorice, cola, smoky sandalwood and baking spice. It’s a lovely wine for drinking
now. Made from the classic Bordeaux varieties, this
shows real sophistication and elegance. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
88
Donati 2010 The Immigrant (Paicines).
With its savory black-pepper spiciness, this
blend will stand up to spicy foods, such as peppered
steaks or beef tacos. It’s a bone dry wine, with strong
but pliant tannins. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $40
87
Epiphany 2010 Revelation (Santa Barba
ra County). This blend of Syrah and Grenache
bears ripe, forward flavors of blackberry and cherry jam,
dried currant, anise and cedar. The tannins are massive,
but ripe and sweet, and there is a green note that gives
the wine some bitterness. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $40
87
Keenan 2009 Mernet Reserve (Spring
Mountain). A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this is precise and elegant.
The firm Spring Mountain tannins and concentrated
black-cherry, currant and mineral flavors impress. But
it’s astringent, with a dryness that’s difficult to appreci-
WineMag.com | 59
ate. It might develop over the years, but the outcome is
uncertain. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $96
87
Sea Shell Cellars 2010 Balboa Reserve
Estate (Paso Robles). Ripe, forward flavors
of raspberry and cherry jam and spice mark this blend
of Tempranillo, Grenache and Mourvèdre. Dry and
crisp, it has tannins that make the palate pucker, and it
calls to be paired with beef, lamb or pork. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $32
87
Sea Shell Cellars 2010 Low Tide (Paso
Robles). This bears blackberry, black currant
and cherry liqueur flavors, and the 12% Syrah component seems to bring a peppery roasted-meat note. Although the wine is technically dry, it’s a little warm and
sweet in glycerine—the result of high alcohol. Drink
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $28
87
Stolpman 2010 La Caudrilla (Santa Ynez
Valley). Juicy currant, plum, leather, spice and
sandalwood flavors abound in this dry, interesting blend
of Syrah, Grenache, Petite Sirah and Viognier. The fruit
is framed by brisk acids and firm tannins. All of the profits from the sale of this wine go to the winery’s full-time
vineyard crew. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
85
Bogle 2009 Phantom (California). The texture’s a little rough in this fruity wine, but it’s
fine to drink now with burgers, barbecue or Mexican.
Blended from Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Mourvèdre
that’s grown in the Delta and the Sierra Foothills, it has
blackberry and blueberry flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
85
Corley 2009 Proprietary Red Wine (Napa
Valley). Made from equal parts of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, this is dry, tannic and oaky, and it offers blackberry jam and black currant flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $55
85
Derby 2009 Derby Vineyard Fifteen 10
Red (Paso Robles). Aggressive in texture,
this Syrah-based Rhône-style blend has jagged tannins
and a sharp green-peppercorn flavor. With its roughand-tumble mouthfeel, it calls to be paired with simple
fare, like tacos, pizzas or burgers. —S.H.
Price: $28
abv: 14.5%
85
Donati 2010 Claret (Paicines). Juicy blackberry jam, anise and oak flavors abound in this
dry, tannic Cabernet. The palate is a little sharp in texture, and it is unlikely to age well, so drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $22
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Annabella 2010 Red (California). While it
does have a mint flavor, this spicy blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and several other varieties is a
fine wine to drink now with pizzas, chili and hamburgers. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
Banknote 2009 The Vault (Napa Valley).
A rustic but tasty wine, this has blackberry, currant, tobacco and cedar flavors. Made from Zinfandel,
Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon in roughly equal proportions, it’s dry, tannic and meant to be consumed now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
86
Epiphany 2009 Gypsy (Santa Barbara
County). Sweet-tasting, jammy raspberry and
cherry flavors abound in this Grenache-based blend.
there are also notes of orange zest, grilled prosciutto,
black pepper and sandalwood. The mouthfeel is simple, and the finish is a bit hot and heavy with glycerine.
—S.H.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $25
Super Sonoman 2009 Meritage (Sonoma
County). The tannins and raisin flavor stick out
on this bone-dry, rustic Bordeaux-style blend. It offers
rich notes of blackberry tart, dark chocolate and roasted
almonds. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
Troublemaker by Austin Hope NV Blend
4 (Paso Robles). This blend of Syrah and
several other Rhône varieties is easy to like for its fullbodied flavors of currants, leather and spices. With its
grippy tannins, this will pair well with ribs, burgers and
tacos. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
85
Walker 2007 Red (Napa Valley). Made
from Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon,
this blend is soft, fruity and sweetly oaky. It has vanilla-infused raspberry and cherry pie flavors. Best Buy.
—S.H.
Price: $10
abv: 13.5%
84
Jorian Hill 2009 BEEspoke (Santa Ynez
Valley). This Rhône-style blend is rich and forward, with blackberry, cherry and raspberry jam flavors.
A sweet, spicy flavor is pretty much all you get. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $30
Fess Parker 2010 The Big Easy (San
ta Barbara County). Made from Syrah, Petite Sirah and Grenache, this robust, tannic blend has
sweet-tasting jam and cola flavors, plus a note of peppery spice. It’s a little hot due to the high alcohol, and it
has a touch of green vegetable on the midpalate. Drink
up. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $35
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Sea Shell Cellars 2010 Vineyard Collec
tion Estate (Paso Robles). This is a blend
of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Tempranillo. The
wine is dry, tannic and light to medium bodied, and it
has cherry, pepper, vanilla and smoke flavors. Ready to
drink now. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $28
Insomnia 2010 Red (California). Rustic
and a little sweet tasting, this has flavors of cherry pie, red currant and toast. Drink it with cheeseburgers. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $10
84
Mad Crush 2010 Red (California). Ripe,
fruity and tannic, this shows lusty flavors of
cherry and raspberry jam that finish sweet and spicy.
The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Zinfandel.
—S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $10
84
R8 2011 Red (California). This Cabernet
gets the job done with its blackberry, cherry and
oak flavors. It’s nice and dry, and it will wash down a
hamburger. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
83
Tower 15 2010 The Swell (Paso Robles).
A blend based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit
Verdot, this is heavy, soft and fruity, delivering a blackberry flavor and a dry finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $21
81
Four Brix 2010 Rhondezvous (Paso Ro
bles). There’s a vegetal underripeness to this
Grenache-based blend. The asparagus flavor is matched
to the sweet cherry and pickle relish notes, accented by
sour acidity. —S.H.
Price: $37
abv: 14.6%
81
Purple Cowboy 2011 Tenacious Red
(Paso Robles). Simple and tart, this has green
mint and sour cherry-candy flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
other red wines
90
Stolpman 2009 Estate Sangiovese (San
ta Ynez Valley). Stolpman grows its Sangiovese in an area of the Santa Ynez Valley where most producers specialize in Rhône varieties. The result is often
one of the most interesting California interpretations of
the great Tuscan grape. Give this a long decanting because right out the bottle it’s acidic and closed, but then
the rich, spicy cherry flavor surfaces. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
88
Fort Ross 2007 Fort Ross Vineyard Pi
notage (Sonoma Coast). Rich and toasty,
this has aromas barrel-dominated aromas and flavors of
vanilla and sweet, buttery oak. The underlying wine is
strong in cherry and balsam flavors, which are girded by
considerable tannins. Pair this with game meats, stews
or barbecue to wrestle the structural elements into submission. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 14.5%
88
Kokomo 2010 Malbec (Chalk Hill). Inky
black in hue, this dry, full-bodied wine has hard
tannins and a sweet black-currant flavor, which makes it
a great selection to pair with steak. If you drink it now,
give it a few hours of decanting. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $36
87
Benessere 2009 Estate Sangiovese
(Napa Valley). Benessere has stuck with Sangiovese for many years. This is rich and fruity, and it
offers jammy red-fruit, currant and chocolate flavors.
Its smooth tannins and softness make it drinkable now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
85
Chateau Lettau 2010 Bella Collina Vine
yard Stiletto Tempranillo (Paso Robles).
This has sweet-tasting cherry-pie and oak flavors, plus
pleasant acids and soft tannins. It tastes like a cross between a warm-climate Pinot Noir and a fruity Merlot.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30
84
Peacock Cellars 2010 Barbera (Paso Ro
bles). Soft and simple, this bears cola, cherry
pie, red currant and pepper flavors that finish sweettasting. This is a fine choice to drink with pizza and
Mexican food. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $32
84
Rock Wall 2010 The Palindrome Tannat
(California). This is dry, tannic and sharp in
acidity. It has a significant core of black cherry fruit, but
it seems overripe, as it develops a prune flavor. Drink
now. —S.H.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $30
washington
chardonnay
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Foundry Vineyards 2011 Oak Chardon
nay (Columbia Gorge). This is made from
fruit that was sourced from the same vineyard and
picked at the same brix level as Foundry’s Stainless
Chardonnay bottling. But here the toast of new oak
adds a lovely flavor to the smooth butterscotch and apple notes. It opens gracefully and quickly, but the Stainless bottling has more grip and complexity. —P.G.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $28
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Maison Bleue 2011 Au Contraire French
Creek Vineyard Chardonnay (Yakima Val
ley). Focus and elegance are the hallmarks of this wine,
and it offers the fruit purity that characterizes virtually
all of Maison Bleue’s white wines. From the first sniff to
the last, resonating swallow, this smells and tastes like a
bowl full of peaches, pineapples and mixed stone fruits.
It’s tight and defined, and it doesn’t have new oak influence. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
Forgeron 2011 Chardonnay (Columbia
Valley). Roughly half of the blend is made
from fruit that comes from 30-year-old vines. An addition of 6% Muscat adds a scent of tree fruit, and the
lovely citrus and stone fruit flavors are enhanced by a
fresh-baked bread note. It has excellent concentration
and impeccable balance, plus a long, satisfying finish.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $27
Mercer Estates 2011 Chardonnay (Co
lumbia Valley). This is a smooth, easy-drinking Chardonnay, and it offers light tropical flavors of banana and melon. There’s a scent and underlying flavor
of cracker and toast, which has not yet integrated with
the fruit, but it may improve with further bottle age.
—P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
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Abeja 2011 Chardonnay (Walla Walla Val
ley). Made from fruit that was sourced entirely from the 1.5-acre estate vineyard, this limited-production, Dijon-clone-based Chardonnay captures the
essence of the Abeja style. Complex, stylish and buttery, it’s a striking, fruit-laden wine. The long, clean finish mixes a flavor of citrus rind with a streak of butterscotch. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $40
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Chardonnay
(Columbia Valley). This bears apple and pear
flavors that are set amidst buttery, toasty accents. It’s
smooth and easy to drink, and the mouthfeel has a certain oiliness. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Unoaked
Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Part of
a Limited Release series, this is an all-stainless Chardonnay. Ripe, tart and focused, it offers spicy bursts of
yellow and green fruits, and it shows a sur lie-derived
texture. The pinpoint details are gorgeous. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
Januik 2010 Cold Creek Vineyard Char
donnay (Columbia Valley). This focused effort features fresh-cut apple and pear flavors that are
spicy and tightly wrapped with a Bourbon-barrel-like
accent. Delicious now, but it can be cellared for a decade at least. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Foundry Vineyards 2011 Stainless Char
donnay (Columbia Gorge). This Chardonnay includes a small amount of Maria Gomes—an obscure white grape from Portugal—in the mix. The addition of Maria Gomes works magic. It fleshes out the
palate, and it brings lush flavors of melon, banana, apple
and lemon. This needs to breathe, but once it opens,
it will thrill you until the last drop. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $24
Januik 2011 Bacchus Vineyard Char
donnay (Columbia Valley). One wishes that
Mike Januik made more Rieslings, as the few he’s made
from Bacchus Vineyard fruit have been excellent. This
is made in a bright, spicy, palate-pleasing style, and it
offers lively flavors of citrus, orange and pear. A hint of
mint, a splash of jasmine tea, and an engaging, long, refreshing finish all add to the pleasure. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
Price: $20
abv: 12.5%
low in alcohol and clean. Bracing and leesy, this is definitely European in style, and it offers celery and melon flavors along with palate-refreshing minerality. Best
Buy. —P.G.
abv: 11.9%
Price: $13
Helix by Reininger 2011 Chardonnay
(Columbia Valley). The Helix Chardonnay is
a lush offering of pineapple flavor, plus a leesy, mineral-soaked midpalate that is supremely refreshing. It has
terrific acidity and persistence on the palate. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
Snoqualmie 2010 Chardonnay (Colum
bia Valley). On the soft and buttery side, this
Chardonnay doesn’t hold back on the popcorn aroma.
Once past that, you’ll find a pretty flavor that tastes like
a piece of spiced, fresh-baked apple pie. Best Buy.
—P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $10
Columbia Crest 2010 Two Vines Char
donnay (Washington). The Two Vines Chardonnay is simple, clean and reliable. Suggestions of
green apple and white peach appear on the palate. Best
Buy. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $8
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Hedgeline 2011 Chardonnay (Washing
ton). Soft and somewhat waxy in texture, this is
a dry, muted Chardonnay. The flavors suggest sweet hay
and light tree fruits, and the finish fades quickly. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
viognier
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Upland Estates 2010 Chardonnay
(Snipes Mountain). The inclusion of 11%
Aligoté, which was sourced from a block planted in
1979, makes this Chardonnay unique. The Aligoté
seems to thicken the core fruit, and it adds flesh and
rind-like flavor, along with old-vine details of dried herb
and spice. It’s a pleasing mix of integrated stone-fruit,
grain and citrus-peel notes. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $22
Ken Wright 2010 Celilo Chardonnay
(Washington). Made from Celilo Vineyard
fruit, this has a sharp-toned bite to its aromas and flavors. Hints of tropical fruits can be found, but the core
of the wine is citrusy. A suggestion of light caramel surfaces on the finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $33
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Mercer Canyons 2011 Chardonnay (Co
lumbia Valley). The new Mercer Canyons label gets off to a good start with this Chardonnay that’s
Maison Bleue 2011 Notre Vie Arthur’s
Vineyard Viognier (Yakima Valley). This
Viognier is easily Maison Bleue’s best yet, and it sets a
high standard for every Viognier in the state. It’s superrich and concentrated without being fat, jammy, bitter
or hot. The explosion of citrus, stone fruit and light tropical fruit flavors seems to extend indefinitely on the finish. Details of mineral, baking spice and honeysuckle
add interest. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $25
Watermill 2011 Viognier (Columbia Val
ley). For full review see page 6. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
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Syncline 2011 Alder Ridge Vineyard
Viognier (Horse Heaven Hills). Dusty
and detailed, this pure Viognier incorporates notes of
lemon-pepper; tart, fresh lemon pulp and rind; plus
a hint of curry powder. This should make an interest-
WineMag.com | 61
ing accompaniment to raw clams or oysters. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Drink this with herb-roasted chicken or pasta primavera. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $32
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Ott & Murphy 2011 Viognier (Columbia
Valley). There’s a change in the 2011 blend:
There’s no Roussanne, and it’s almost one-quarter Marsanne. It’s a tight, steely wine, with bracing acidity and
citrus rind flavor, which is reflective of the vintage.
Grapefruit and Meyer lemon notes come into play, and
it remains balanced through the finish —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $20
GewÜrztraminer
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Pacific Rim 2011 Gewürztraminer (Co
lumbia Valley). Lush and round, floral
and fruity, this only hints at residual sugar. The acidity makes for a bracing palate that offers highlights of
clover and honeysuckle, plus rich notes of stone fruits.
Best Buy. —P.G.
Price: $11
abv: 12%
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Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Gewürztra
miner (Columbia Valley). Off-dry and balanced, this wine exudes floral and spicy aromas. It has a
citrus highlight and a rose petal scent. A total of 65,000
cases were produced. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $9
87
Upland Estates 2010 Gewürztraminer
(Snipes Mountain). Upland Estates produces Gewürztraminer as an off-dry, fruity wine. The nose
displays a scent of powdered sugar, and the palate offers flavors of hard candy and lemon-lime. Ripe, round
and mouth-filling, this is a fruit-powered selection. Best
Buy. —P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $12
riesling
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Pacific Rim 2010 Wallula Vineyard Biody
namic Riesling (Columbia Valley). Made
from grapes sourced from a biodynamically farmed
vineyard, this wine puts on an almost-magical display
of flower and citrus scents. Deep and concentrated, this
has harmonious and potent flavors, and it is amazing
how the delicate floral aspect cuts across the juicy, citrusy taste. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $32
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Tapteil Vineyard 2011 Argus Bone Dry
Riesling (Yakima Valley). This bone-drytasting wine is made from grapes that were sourced
from the Alayt Vineyard. It marries light hints of flowers
to notes of citrus, apples and pears, which taste more
like the fruits’ textural skin than its sweet flesh. The impressive minerality, depth and length elevate this bottling to the A-list of Washington Rieslings. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 12%
Price: $17
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Pacific Rim 2010 Solstice Vineyard Ries
ling (Columbia Valley). The four-decade-old
vines have lent this wine unusual flavors of forest mushroom, lemon rind and verbena. It tastes completely dry,
and it has a tartness that carries through the palate.
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Waussie
Riesling (Columbia Valley). Part of a Limited Release series, this is quite dry despite the 12% alcohol. It’s lightly spritzy and fragrant of honeysuckle and
Jonagold apples. Fresh and lively, this demonstrates excellent balance. —P.G.
abv: 12%
Price: $22
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Hedgeline 2011 Riesling (Washington).
Despite having 12.5% alcohol, the palate impression is not sweet. Instead, it’s bright and tangy,
with flavors of citrus pulp and citrus rind. Notes of orange and tangerine dominate the bright, bracing finish.
—P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
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Mercer Canyons 2011 Riesling (Yaki
ma Valley). The lush nose is fragrant of orange blossoms and ripe peaches, and the palate tastes
of Meyer lemon, lime and grapefruit. It’s a fruit punch
of a Riesling—delicious as a chilled sipper. Best Buy.
—P.G.
Price: $13
abv: 11.9%
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Columbia Crest 2011 Two Vines Riesling
(Washington). This is just a bit on the sweet
side, but there is plenty of acidity to be found. It’s fruity,
peachy, succulent and fresh. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $8
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Columbia Crest 2011 Reserve Sauvignon
Blanc (Columbia Valley). This has been
barrel-fermented and aged, yet it retains more than a
hint of the grape’s natural herbaceousness. Sharp-edged
and assertive, it might pass for a Quincy from the Loire
Valley. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
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Snoqualmie 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Co
lumbia Valley). Fleshy and fruity, fresh and
full bodied, this generous wine offers scents of orange
peel and citrus, and the palate exudes ripe flavors of
grapefruit, lime and a hint of melon. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $8
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Upland Estates 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Snipes Mountain). Consistent in every way
with the previous vintage, this barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc includes 9% Sémillon, both of which were
sourced from 15-year-old vines. It’s aromatic with scents
of sweet herb and citrus, and it tastes of Meyer lemon
and grapefruit, plus a hint of brioche. —P.G.
Price: $15
abv: 13.5%
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Mercer Estates 2011 Estate Grown Sau
vignon Blanc (Yakima Valley). Clean, tart
and herbal, this Sauvignon Blanc has front-and-center
flavors of bright citrus and green apple. A slight hint of
baking spice comes through on the finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $15
white blends
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Mercer Estates 2011 Estate Grown Ries
ling (Yakima Valley). Broad and a bit flat on
the palate, this wine has flavors of lemon and grapefruit
rind, light stone fruit and a dash of mineral. —P.G.
abv: 12.1%
Price: $15
Snoqualmie 2011 Winemaker’s Select
Riesling (Columbia Valley). This wine does
not display the Riesling sweetness scale that’s found on
most Ste. Michelle Wine Estates Rieslings. This is off
dry, and it has punchy peach, pear and apple flavors.
Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 10.8%
Price: $8
sauvignon blanc
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Columbia Crest 2011 Reserve Sauvignon
Blanc (Horse Heaven Hills). This has great
viscosity and bracing minerality, plus a tongue-tickling texture. The refreshing palate offers gooseberry
and melon notes, which combine to make this a go-to
Sancerre substitute. One can only hope production increases from the miserly two barrels that were made in
this vintage. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Arbor Crest 2011 Bacchus Vineyard Sau
vignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). Redolent
of intense grapefruit and pineapple, this is a classy, fruitdriven single-vineyard Sauvignon Blanc. Although this
is aged entirely in stainless steel, there is a hint of cracker on the finish. Best Buy. —P.G.
Price: $10
abv: 13%
Ott & Murphy 2011 Boushey Vineyard
L’Entente Blanc (Yakima Valley). A blend
of Marsanne and Grenache Blanc, with a dribble of
Roussanne, this offers fruit that falls on the cool side of
tropical. It has fine balance and length. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $27
Syncline 2011 Subduction White (Colum
bia Valley). The blend in 2011 includes five
different white Rhône grapes: Viognier, Roussanne,
Marsanne, Picpoul and Grenache Blanc. It’s a sharpedged wine, with obvious fruit-skin flavors. Citrus and
pineapple notes resolve on the finish, which has a touch
of bitterness. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
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Columbia Crest 2011 Reserve White
Blend (Columbia Valley). This Rhône-style
white blend has a floral highlight that leads into tart
white fruit, jicama, celery and melon flavors. A light
grass-like note is also apparent, and the palate could use
some more concentration. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
other white wines
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Maison Bleue 2011 Boushey Vineyard
Petite Joie Marsanne (Yakima Valley).
This pure Marsanne was whole-cluster pressed and
fermented in French oak barrels—30% of which were
new. It’s full and flavorful, and it has a lemony richness
that’s streaked with veins of butterscotch and marzipan. As with all of this winery’s 2011 white wines, the
aromatics are excellent and the length is exceptional.
—P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $35
dazzle you for up to a decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $50
saturated note of blackberry syrup. A touch of dark
chocolate infuses the finish. —P.G.
abv: 15%
Price: $30
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Merriman 2011 Old Vine The Brasher
Block Chenin Blanc (Columbia Valley).
Bone dry and hinting at a sweet herb flavor, this wine
backs away from the fruitiness found in most domestic
Chenin Blanc. It offers complex details of yellow fruit,
lemon verbena and beeswax. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
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Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Pinot Gris
(Columbia Valley). Ste. Michelle’s reliable
Pinot Gris has lively, crisp and spritzy qualities, and it
boasts flavors of melon and pear. There was 4% Viognier added to the mix, which has contributed a pleasing
floral aroma. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
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Syncline 2011 Boushey Vineyard Gr
enache Blanc (Yakima Valley). Syncline’s
winemaker James Mantone is putting out a fascinating
lineup of single-vineyard 100%-varietal wines from unusual grapes like Grenache Blanc. Lime and grapefruit
scents and flavors are evident, along with light Asian
pear and jicama highlights. The cool vintage emphasizes
a gin-like botanical flavor. This is a balanced effort, with
a medium-long finish. —P.G.
Price: $26
abv: 14.1%
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Syncline 2011 Boushey Vineyard Mar
sanne (Yakima Valley). Out of Syncline’s
lineup of pure, varietal white Rhône-style wines, the
Marsanne may be the most complete. It deals melon
and Mandarin orange flavors, which are set amidst light,
floral notes and supporting acids. Round and balanced,
this is drinking quite well now, and it can be kept for another 2–3 years. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $26
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Mercer Estates 2011 Pinot Gris (Yakima
Valley). An aroma of fresh-cut pear introduces
this clean, tart, fresh Pinot Gris. There is little in the
way of complexity, but the purity of the fruit is impressive. —P.G.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $15
syrah
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àMaurice 2009 Fred Syrah (Walla Walla
Valley). This estate-grown Syrah is racy, spicy
and contoured, with well-polished structural facets.
Raspberry, citrus and lavender scents abound, and the
freshness on the palate marks this as a wine so delicious
that it will be difficult to cellar. Drink it now or in five
years—either way you’ll be happy. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $47
93
Syncline 2010 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard
Syrah (Red Mountain). Yummy is the word
that best describes this wine, but there’s much more
than just ripe berry flavors. Juicy, fresh and focused, this
is akin to drinking liquid raspberries that are drizzled
over clean rocks. It is a deep, intense wine that should
Januik 2009 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syr
ah (Red Mountain). In 2008, Januik made a
single-vineyard Syrah from Lewis Vineyard fruit; now
the winery has sourced fruit from Ciel du Cheval Vineyard, one of the superstar spots on Red Mountain. A
compact wine that snaps right into focus, this offers varietal flavors of fig, berry and plum. A streak of smooth
chocolate weaves through the finish, along with a hint
of red licorice and underlying slate-like minerality. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $35
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Maison Bleue 2010 Boushey Vineyard
Liberté Syrah (Yakima Valley). Made from
fruit from what many consider to be the finest site for
growing Syrah in the state, this wine opens gracefully to
reveal scents of plump berry, vanilla and tobacco. Briefly aged in a mix of one- and two-year-old French oak
barrels, it offers concentrated berry and black cherry
flavors that never turn syrupy. The crisp acidity suggests
cellaring for up to a decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
Price: $40
abv: 14.5%
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Rasa Vineyards 2009 Principia Reserve
Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Firm and muscular, this has a supple core of blue and purple fruits,
plus balancing acids, ripe tannins and no overt oak influence. It’s long and seamless. —P.G.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $85
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Reininger 2009 Syrah (Walla Walla Val
ley). This Syrah is at the top of the lineup for
Reininger. It’s tightly wound, yet it opens gracefully to
reveal deep flavors of blueberry and plum, with resonating notes of earth, iron, espresso and dark chocolate. This can age for up to a decade. Cellar Selection.
—P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $44
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Eight Bells 2010 Red Willow Vineyard
Clonal Block Syrah (Yakima Valley). A
blend of eight different Syrah clones and a splash of
Grenache, this is dark and sappy, with dense veins of citrus oil, licorice, coffee liqueur and black tea that are anchored by a solid black-cherry flavor. This should drink
well for a decade or longer. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $32
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Helix by Reininger 2008 Syrah (Colum
bia Valley). This Syrah is rounding into its
prime drinking window. Purple and black fruits abound,
with teasing streaks of anise, clove and espresso. Lush
and precise, this has excellent length, and although it’s
drinking beautifully right now, it can age further. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
90
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Boreal Red
Wine (Columbia Valley). Part of a Limited
Release series, this Syrah is made from fruit that was
sourced from the Wahluke Slope, and it’s co-fermented
with 5% Viognier. Solid and substantial, it offers clear
flavors of coffee, licorice, herb and earth, plus a deep,
Dumas Station 2010 Estate Syrah (Walla
Walla Valley). Dumas Station draws its fruit
from the excellent Minnick Hills Vineyard. This 100%
Syrah takes no prisoners: Its superconcentrated flavors
of blackberry syrup, maple syrup, espresso, dark chocolate and vanilla rock-and-roll across the palate, propelled by the high alcohol. —P.G.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $34
90
Kaella 2010 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syr
ah (Red Mountain). This wine emits details
of iron and citrus rind along with somewhat stark, tight
fruit flavors that are often associated with Red Mountain Syrah. Racy and bracing, this will improve with 1–2
more years in the bottle. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $35
90
Purple Star 2009 Syrah (Columbia Val
ley). Made from fruit that was sourced from
Olsen Vineyards, this Syrah’s blackberry, cherry and
pepper flavors and fine-grained tannins combine to
make a wine with good length and a clean finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $16
90
Spring Valley Vineyard 2010 Nina Lee
Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This Syrah is
aged for 21 months in 100% French oak—half of which
was new. Spring Valley Vineyard has had a dramatic expansion, which has allowed it to increase production
without damaging quality. Soft and smooth, this offers a
pretty raspberry flavor that’s lightly peppery, with a hint
of sweet grain and a side note of orange peel that rides
on the tip of the tongue. It’s a pleasure to drink already,
although it can be cellared for another 6–8 years. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $50
90
Tapteil Vineyard 2008 Spilya Vineyard
Syrah (Yakima Valley). Threads of licorice,
steel, earth and smoke weave through the proportionate strawberry and raspberry flavors, offset by hints of
herb and baking spice. It’s a seamless, complex wine of
moderate length. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $27
89
serve Syrah (Columbia Valley). Made from
Cold Creek and Wahluke Slope fruit, this pure Syrah
is compact and dense, and it reveals blueberry and
boysenberry flavors that are set in a frame of coffee-
flavored tannins. The acids are suggestive of lemon verbena, and the 15.5% alcohol shows a little heat in the
the throat. —P.G.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $35
89
Owen Roe 2010 Red Willow Vineyard
Chapel Block Syrah (Yakima Valley). The
amount of alcohol in this Syrah has increased in 2010,
which will appeal to some palates. The downside is the
loss of texture and subtlety. Smooth and powerfully
fruity, this hits with some chewy tannins, but it stops a
WineMag.com | 63
bit short. More bottle age could certainly be a boon to
this wine. —P.G.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $55
88
Eight Bells 2010 Red Willow Vineyard
Syrah (Yakima Valley). Made from grapes
planted in 2006, this Syrah reflects its young-vine fruit
in the form of light, primary, somewhat grapy flavors. It
shows traces of herb and tobacco, which are balanced
by tannins. All in all, this a promising start for this new
vineyard block. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
88
Owen Roe 2010 Ex Umbris Syrah (Co
lumbia Valley). A sweet scent of violet greets
you first, along with a primary purple-fruit note. It’s
made in a forward, fruity style, and it offers finishing
notes of anise and coffee liqueur. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
herbal component to this estate-grown Cabernet Sauvigon, plus suggestions of fresh-cut tobacco and black
tea. Aromatic and inviting, the wine also offers a subtle moist-earth note under the ripe, rich flavor of black
fruit. Delicious and beautifully structured, this is for aging over the next 5–10 years. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $55
95
Abeja 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). A powerful wine, this is
only the fourth reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ever made
by Abeja. Thick, black and redolent of new French oak,
this is as close to a Napa Valley cult Cabernet as you
will find this far north. The alcohol, which nears 16%,
is beautifully handled and proportionate, but the wine’s
style is over the top and not suited to every palate. Best
to drink this over the next 3–5 years. —P.G.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $85
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Arbor Crest 2010 Three Vineyards Syr
ah (Columbia Valley). This wide open Syrah shows berry and heavy vanilla notes. As the flavors
wind through the palate, the back end seems to tighten
up, and it finishes with a somewhat green, lightly herbal
flourish. —P.G.
Price: $22
abv: 13.8%
Tapteil Vineyard 2010 Spilya Vineyard
Syrah (Yakima Valley). Fruity, leafy and astringent, this Syrah shows notes of plums and purple
fruits, with a trace of gun metal running through the
core. The finish is astringent, with the character of fresh
clay. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
Mourvèdre
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Syncline 2010 Mourvèdre (Red Moun
tain). This is pure Mourvèdre from Heart of
the Hill and Ciel du Cheval vineyards. The Red Mountain terroir is on display in the form of a spicy cherry-pie
flavor that is set off by minerality and dense, earthy tannins. A kiss of chocolate seals the deal. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $45
89
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Mourvèdre
(Wahluke Slope). Part of a Limited Release
series, this wine includes 17% Syrah, but the varietal
character of the Mourvèdre shines through. Light
touches of chocolate, clean earth and mineral underscore flavors of plum and cherry. There is also a streak
of vanilla, perhaps from aging in French and American
oak. —P.G.
Price: $25
abv: 14.5%
89
Tapteil Vineyard 2010 Red Heaven Vine
yard Mourvèdre (Red Mountain). This
Mourvèdre has a pretty cherry flavor, with a suggestion
of ripeness that borders on raisining. It also carries interesting details of dried leaf and milk chocolate. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $34
cabernet sauvignon
95
Abeja 2009 Heather Hill Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (Walla Walla Valley). There is a leafy,
Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Sagemoor
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia
Valley). Supple and structured, with ripe tannins, this
wine offers a seamless mix of red and black fruit flavors,
along with fragrant tobacco, fig jam and dark chocolate
notes. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
Price: $40
abv: 14.5%
Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Vineyard Se
lect Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla
Valley). For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $48
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Col Solare 2009 Component Collection
Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain).
This is the first Col Solare release to bear the Red
Mountain appellation. It’s a limited-production wine
made from Klipsun, Kiona and estate-grown grapes. It
feels tight, and it shows great depth of fruit, along with
pencil lead, oreo cookie and smoke notes. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $85
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Januik 2009 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain).
Mike Januik’s Cabernet Sauvignons are intellectual
wines. They don’t rush out to greet you with jammy,
gooey flavors; instead, they are hard and compact like
coiled steel. They offer potential rather than immediate
pleasure. This selection is powerful and muscular, and
it offers notes of metal, gravel and cassis. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
and riveting, and the tannins finish with a peppery bite.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $55
92
Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Cabernet Sau
vignon (Walla Walla Valley). Made from
three-quarters Cabernet Sauvignon, this Bordeauxstyle blend is beautifully built, and it reveals fascinating
threads of flavor. Notes of plum, fig, rum-soaked pound
cake and a pat of butter are delicate and perfectly balanced. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
91
Foundry Vineyards 2009 Artisan Caber
net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Made in
a tart, juicy style, this well-structured Cabernet Sauvignon should be decanted. The acid-driven berry flavors
carry a hint of gun metal. A few more years of bottle age
would be advisable. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $42
90
serve Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia
Valley). For full review see page 7.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $38
90
Helix by Reininger 2010 Phinny Hill Vine
yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Val
ley). Made from fruit that was sourced from this excellent vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, this Cabernet
is dense and muscular, and it bears deep berry and cassis flavors at its core. The polished tannins are wreathed
in a whiff of smoke and streaked with accents of anise
and herb. This is a wine to cellar for another 5–10 years.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
90
Native Sun 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Red Mountain). Made from Kiona Vineyards
fruit, this Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon has the
dark fruit and the dense tannins one might expect. But
that meaty power is leavened by natural acidity. A highlight of orange peel accents the deep flavors of cassis
and smoke. It turns a little chalky at the tail end. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $50
90
Owen Roe 2010 DuBrul Vineyard Caber
net Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). Made from
DuBrul Vineyard fruit, this has lush strawberry and
raspberry flavors that dig deep into the core, supported by a base of minerality. The tightly-focused finish
includes echoes of toasty barrel-derived flavors. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $72
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Columbia Crest 2009 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). An outstanding Reserve, this opens with potent aromas of spice and
cacao, which lead onto a muscular, sleek and stylish palate that shows terrific depth of black fruits. The wine
has exceptional structure, and it remains nuanced, with
details of earth and stem. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
Januik 2009 Champoux Vineyard Caber
net Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). Stiff
and tannic, this wine’s bold black-cherry flavor, which is
characteristic of the Champoux Vineyard, is veined with
iron and gravel notes, plus a clover hint. It’s complex
Ambassador Vineyard 2010 Estate
Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Moun
tain). Upon opening, this intense, fragrant wine seems
European in style, with Italian-like nuances of leather,
fungus and tobacco. The enticing whiffs give way to a
full-flavored palate that offers notes of mixed red fruits,
while the finish loses some focus. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
Arbor Crest 2010 Five Vineyards Cab
ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). The
Cabernet used to make this wine was sourced from
Bacchus, Dionysus, Klipsun, Stillwater Creek and Wahluke Slope vineyards. It has Bordeaux-like tannins and
flavors of herb and stem. The red currant fruit is solid
and compact, which suggests that further bottle age will
reward the patient consumer. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $20
cocoa that sit above the light and pretty cherry flavor.
The finish is laden with a mocha note, which provides a
pleasing conclusion. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
plenty of spicy oak tones. The tannins are polished and
bring some finishing flavors of black tea. This should age
for a decade at least. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $50
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90
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Cold Creek
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum
bia Valley). This workhorse vineyard supplies grapes
to a wide variety of wines across the entire Ste. Michelle
portfolio, but the vineyard-designated wines are much
more limited, and they’re often the best of show. As the
alcohol reaches 15.5%, this selection is sappy, dense and
a bit warm. There’s plenty of fruit flavor and concentration, but it’s difficult to pair such a blockbuster with
food. —P.G.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $28
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Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Druthers
Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley).
Part of a Limited Release series, this may be both the
most expensive and most alcoholic Cabernet ever made
by Chateau Ste. Michelle. Superripe and saturated, it’s
propped up by balancing acidity, but the alcohol suppresses nuance and terroir. It’s a wine to sip slowly, like
a young Port. —P.G.
Price: $80
abv: 16%
89
Januik 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co
lumbia Valley). At first this wine seems quite
astringent, closed and tight. It shows dark streaks of cassis and dried leaf, and it only reluctantly opens up to
expand the black fruit flavor with a wash of Bourbon
barrel. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $30
89
Owen Roe 2010 Red Willow Vineyard
1973 Block Cabernet Sauvignon (Yaki
ma Valley). This well-structured effort is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, and it bears nuances of herb and briar.
There is a balanced mix of plum and black cherry flavors
that are wreathed in smoke and coffee notes, which resolve into firm but smooth tannins. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $72
89
Purple Star 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). This is made from fruit
sourced from the Milbrandt, Olsen and Kiona vineyards, which are located in three different AVAs. The
wine is packed with black fruit, with light accents of
smoke, toast, espresso and dark chocolate that add interest to the finish. Merlot and Petit Verdot are also in
the mix. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $16
88
Columbia Crest 2010 Grand Estates Cab
ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). The
Grand Estates Cabernet is a real strength in the lineup,
which falls between the Two Vines and H3 bottlings in
terms of affordability. This is loaded with vanilla as well
as a big whiff of clove. The cassis flavor is substantial,
and the wine retains an authoritative firmness because
of its well-hewn tannins. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Columbia Crest 2010 H3 Cabernet Sau
vignon (Horse Heaven Hills). This wideopen, flavorful wine is lifted by accents of tobacco and
Mercer Canyons 2010 Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (Horse Heaven Hills). A bit of leather
and barnyard marks this Cabernet Sauvignon’s nose, but
it does not mask the plum and black cherry notes. The
finish is layered with dark chocolate and espresso flavors. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $17
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Reininger 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Walla Walla Valley). This Cabernet Sauvignon demonstrates proportionate fruit, acid and barrel
components. The only downside, if there is one, is a hint
of underripeness, manifested as a whiff of asparagus.
—P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Seven Bridges 2009 Elerding Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley).
Made from Elerding Vineyard fruit, this wine is aged in
100% new oak for 24 months. It’s dark and concentrated, and it deals attention-grabbing barrel-derived flavors of dark chocolate, licorice and espresso. The black
cherry flavor has the grip and power to handle the barrel influence, but the wine will profit from additional
bottle age. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $40
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Tapteil Vineyard 2009 Cabernet Sauvi
gnon (Red Mountain). Made from estate
fruit, this wine offers tart blueberry and plum flavors
along with drying tannins. The nose displays some volatile aromas, which carry onto the palate. Depending
upon your particular sensitivity, this may or may not enhance the experience. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $39
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Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This Cabernet is blended with Syrah and Grenache, along with
other grapes, which moves the wine into a fruit-forward
direction. The trade-off is that the varietal specificity and focus are muted, making this a pleasant albeit
slightly generic selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
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Upland Estates 2009 Old Vine Cabernet
Cabernet Sauvignon (Snipes Mountain).
By “Old Vine Cabernet” the winery refers to vines that
were planted in 1973. But somehow the fruit doesn’t
express old-vine character. Instead, it’s a mix of sweettasting strawberry and bitter stem flavors that lack focus, with a peppery highlight. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $32
cabernet franc
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Spring Valley Vineyard 2010 Katherine
Corkrum Cabernet Franc (Walla Walla
Valley). Production has increased dramatically, but
quality remains quite good for this estate-grown Cabernet Franc. Deep and plummy, it’s a rich, round mouthful of blue and black fruits that are dressed up with
Arbor Crest 2010 Conner Lee Vineyard
Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). This
single-vineyard 100% Cabernet Franc is firm, juicy and
focused. It has a phenolic bite at the back end, along
with lemony acids. The concentration of fruit and herb
flavors is excellent, which makes it a fine steak wine and
also a bottle to stow away for a few more years. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $22
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Januik 2009 Weinbau Vineyard Cabernet
Franc (Wahluke Slope). This is a relatively
gentle, light Cabernet Franc. It reveals a pretty, juicy
blueberry flavor as well as a muted herb note. A whiff
of violet and a dash of vanilla run through the finish.
—P.G.
Price: $35
abv: 14.4%
malbec
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àMaurice 2009 Amparo Malbec (Walla
Walla Valley). Malbec has been a shining star
at this winery, but this bottling is the best yet. Estate
grown, big and fruity, this wine is generously soaked in
barrel flavors of spice and toast, cocoa and Bourbon.
Lush and juicy, the fruit more than holds its own, and
it’s nearly irresistible. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $47
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Reininger 2008 Malbec (Walla Walla Val
ley). Made from Pepper Bridge Vineyard fruit,
this rich, deep Malbec is similar to pricey Argentine
versions. It matches concentrated black fruits to generous new barrel-derived flavors of vanilla, cinnamon
and Kahlua. The acidity keeps the palate propped up
through the long finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $52
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Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Sagemoor
Vineyard Malbec (Columbia Valley). This
wine boasts a riot of tart huckleberry, marionberry and
purple fruit flavors that taste as if they have been lightly
soaked in Bourbon. The dusty tannins set up a long ride
onto the palate-pleasing finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $30
90
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Malbec
(Horse Heaven Hills). Part of a Limited Release series, this supple, oaky Malbec includes Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot. Made from Canoe Ridge Estate
Vineyard fruit, this offers compelling blue- and blackfruit flavors that are wrapped in coffee and cream notes.
It’s a structured wine that can be cellared up to a decade. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 15%
Price: $25
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Upland Estates 2009 Malbec (Snipes
Mountain). Made from estate-vineyard fruit,
this Malbec is swathed in a rich barrel-derived flavor
of baking spice, which gives it a confectionary character. —P.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $30
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Seven Bridges 2008 Reserve Malbec
(Columbia Valley). Here is a straightforward Malbec that offers the expected mix of berry and
herb flavors, plus a suggestion of minerality and a whiff
of sweatiness. It’s a good companion for a burger or a
steak. —P.G.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $34
coffee grounds, licorice and smoke all come into play.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $18
amel linger through the long, smooth finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
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merlot
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Abeja 2010 Merlot (Columbia Valley).
This is toasty, dense and inviting from the first
sniff to the last swallow. It’s an authoritative, tightly woven and complex wine that offers a core of plum and
cassis flavors, annotated by streaks of coffee, licorice
and iron. The tannins are textural and gripping. Delicious now, this can also be cellared for a decade. Cellar
Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $38
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Januik 2009 Klipsun Vineyard Merlot
(Red Mountain). This vineyard-designated
Merlot includes 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, also sourced
from Klipsun. Classy from the get-go, this is limned
with notes of graphite, mineral and cinnamon, with
dense black-cherry and cassis flavors that anchor the
core. Its excellent texture, depth, length and structure
suggest that this can be cellared for a decade, at least.
Price: $30
abv: 14.4%
92
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Canoe Ridge
Estate Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). For
full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
Helix by Reininger 2009 Merlot (Colum
bia Valley). This 100% Merlot is full bodied
and juicy, and it offers a sappy red-berry flavor. There’s
a nice dash of spice, and it demonstrates good balance
overall. It needs an hour or so of airing before it really
opens up. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
88
Vineyard Merlot (Columbia Valley). This
vineyard-designated wine includes 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Syrah. The Syrah component seems to
take over, in the form of tart berry, herb and dried leaf
flavors. The alcohol, which is 15.5%, mutes any other
complexities. It’s a nice wine, but it doesn’t offer standard Washington Merlot flavors. —P.G.
Price: $28
abv: 15.5%
88
Januik 2009 Merlot (Columbia Valley).
Spicy red-fruit flavors run the gamut from cranberry to cherry, which creates a substantial, flavorful
core. The wine dries out and turns chalky on the finish, but it comes with highlights of nutmeg and cocoa
powder. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
Northstar 2009 Merlot (Columbia Valley).
The vines from which the fruit for this wine
were sourced are, on average, 15 years old. Aged primarily in French oak, this concentrated wine shows fine
depth, with an emphasis on black cherry and cassis flavors. Full and ripe, this well-structured effort has the
balance and polished tannins to be cellared for a decade, at least. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $40
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Reininger 2008 Merlot (Walla Walla Val
ley). Although this is currently aggressively
oaky, this full, fleshy Merlot is on the path to excellence.
Bright berry and plum flavors are kissed with notes of
vanilla, cinnamon and toast, plus a hint of herb. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $38
91
Northstar 2009 Merlot (Walla Walla Val
ley). Production of this Merlot was further
dampened in 2009 by an early freeze. But the quality
is as good as ever, which is apparent in the pretty core
of strawberry, raspberry and red plum flavors. Aging in
55% new French oak gives the fruit a Bourbon-soaked
appeal as it rolls onto the rich finish streaked with dark
chocolate. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $50
90
Arbor Crest 2010 Four Vineyards Mer
lot (Columbia Valley). This pure Merlot is
made from fruit that was sourced from Bacchus, Conner Lee, Dionysus and Klipsun vineyards. Sappy, spicy
and loaded with black fruits, this delivers plenty of flavor across the rich midpalate. Notes of black cherries,
Tapteil Vineyard 2010 Merlot (Red Moun
tain). Made from estate-vineyard fruit, this
Merlot is medium bodied, and it has a mix of red fruit
flavors, plus grace notes of leaf and mushroom. The finish leaves an impression of dried toast. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
Columbia Crest 2010 H3 Merlot (Horse
Heaven Hills). As in the past, this is loaded
with vanilla. Streaks of cut tobacco and light, pretty
cherry capture the midpalate, and some chewy tannins
kick in on the finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
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Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Merlot (Co
lumbia Valley). Light plum and cherry flavors
give a good first impression. The blend is not strictly
traditional, with small doses of Syrah and Grenache in
the mix. It fades quickly, and it shows some sourness on
the finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
red blends
96
Januik 2009 Reserve Red (Red Moun
tain). This a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon,
18% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc, and all of the fruit
came from old vines from two of Washington’s most revered vineyards, Champoux and Weinbau. Supple and
ripe, it’s packed with a brilliant flavorful mix of berries,
cherries and cassis. The tannins are polished, and the
barrel-derived notes of toast, cinnamon, coffee and car-
Rasa Vineyards 2009 In Order to Form
a More Perfect Union (Columbia Valley).
The fruit used to make this Bordeaux-style blend of
41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 23% Cabernet
Franc was sourced from the DuBrul, Kiona, Dionysus
and Weinbau vineyards. Dense and deeply flavorful,
this wine has intense notes of black fruits, brown spices,
licorice and coffee. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $95
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àMaurice 2009 Night Owl Red Blend
(Walla Walla Valley). This a Bordeaux-style
blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Petit Verdot
and 9% Cabernet Franc that’s made from estate-grown
fruit. Perhaps it’s the altitude of the vineyard (1,400
feet) that helps to keep the alcohol from overwhelming the palate. Nothing seems overwrought in this wine,
and the berry flavors show peach and cherry hints, with
length to match the concentration. Cellar Selection.
—P.G.
Price: $47
abv: 14.8%
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Arbor Crest 2009 Dionysus Meritage
(Columbia Valley). A Meritage blend of
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 10% Cabernet
Franc, 4% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot, this is deep,
rich and chewy, without having excessive alcohol. The
concentrated flavor of cassis is married to layers of clean
earth, graphite and coffee grounds. The tannins are
slightly grainy, fully ripe and wreathed in a smoke note,
and the length is superb. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $48
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Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Bello Rosso
Cabernet Sauvignon-Sangiovese (Co
lumbia Valley). As usual, the 2009 Bello Rosso is a
50-50 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Almost magisterial, this wine is forceful and balanced,
and it is packed with black fruits that are matched to the
perfectly ripe tannins. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
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Cadence 2009 Ciel du Cheval Red Wine
(Red Mountain). Here you’ll find a supple
melding of red fruit flavors that are accented by a mocha note. The Red Mountain minerality is found in the
muscular frame, which resolves into astringent, delicately chalky tannins. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
92
Kaella 2010 Meritage (Columbia Val
ley). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet
Franc and Merlot, this wine’s fruit is sourced entirely
from the Conner Lee Vineyard. The superjuicy blackcherry flavor is balanced by generous acidity. Vibrant
and full, long and fresh, this could age gracefully for a
decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30
92
Syncline 2010 Cuvée Elena (Columbia
Valley). This blend showcases Grenache and
Mourvèdre, with small amounts of Syrah, Counoise and
Carignan. Raspberry, cherry and chocolate flavors com-
bine with and are enlivened by a dash of white pepper.
Excellent focus and length suggest that this can be cellared for at least five years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $40
91
Cadence 2009 Cara Mia Vineyard Camer
ata Red (Red Mountain). Made from estatevineyard fruit, this is a blend of three-quarters Cabernet
Sauvignon, with Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Each new vintage seems to bring a bit more depth
to the wine, and the flavors of berry and plum remain
fresh, with a gentle kiss of new oak. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $55
91
Cadence 2009 Tapteil Red Wine (Red
Mountain). This is a lovely example of the
vineyard’s strengths: It has ripe, mouth-filling flavors of
cherry and cassis, which are set in an iron-like framework and accented by chalk and clay notes. It’s balanced, and it will benefit from cellaring for up to a decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
Price: $45
abv: 14.4%
91
Columbia Crest 2009 Walter Clore Pri
vate Reserve (Columbia Valley). A blend
of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 4% Malbec, this is supple and substantial,
and it breathes lush notes of plum, cassis, black olive,
raw wood and mineral, plus a dash of caramel. Cellar
Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
91
Pamplin 2010 JRG Red Wine (Columbia
Valley). Striking aromas of cassis, tobacco and
fresh-ground coffee introduce this excellent new edition of JRG. The grapes were sourced from the excellent Alder Ridge, Klipsun, Canoe Ridge, Champoux
and Seven Hills vineyards. It has a full midpalate, which
is buoyed by juicy acidity. It could age for another five
years or more, but drink it young to enjoy it best. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $33
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Rasa Vineyards 2009 QED (Columbia
Valley). Full and complex, this Syrah-dominated Rhône-style blend includes Grenache and Mour
vèdre, and it’s cofermented with a splash of Viognier.
The luscious cranberry and raspberry flavors are annotated with citrus, red licorice and wet stone accents.
Suggestions of tropical fruits, such as papaya and pineapple, add more interest. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $50
90
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Artist Series
Red Wine Meritage (Columbia Valley).
For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
90
Foundry Vineyards 2009 Artisan Blend
(Columbia Valley). Cranberry and cassis flavors meet in this tightly wound, bright and bold Bordeaux-style blend. It’s comprised of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot and 10% Merlot, but the Petit
Verdot does not dominate as is often the case. There’s
a tongue-tapping tang to the juicy young fruit, and the
finish is clean and precise, with hints of tar and graphite. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $36
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Helix by Reininger 2008 Stone Tree
SoRhô (Columbia Valley). This Southern
Rhône-style blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsault opens with a lovely nose of violet and blue fruit
scents. The fruit flavors are joined by a layer of wet
stone, which adds some heft to the wine’s foundation.
Sleek and tangy, this can be consumed young, or it can
be aged for several more years. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $32
Ramseyer 2009 Vintage Five (Yakima
Valley). This Bordeaux-style blend is mostly
Cabernet Sauvignon, with small percentages of Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Merlot. It’s high-toned, and
it comes with a pungency that brightens the highly extracted, sweet-tasting berry fruit. It has lots of appeal,
but you must like wines that have a volatile edge. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $42
Syncline 2011 Subduction Red (Colum
bia Valley). Always extremely popular, this
Southern Rhône-style six-grape blend is especially noteworthy in 2011. It’s a powerful wine that has a broad array of red and purple fruits, plus penetrating focus. This
is juicy, forward and immediately delicious, and it also
has the structure to age, perhaps surprisingly well. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Cadence 2010 Coda (Red Mountain). This
Coda displays fresh and bright raspberry fruit.
The acids come with a crisp snap, and there’s an overall
juiciness that makes it especially quaffable. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
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Cadence 2009 Bel Canto Cara Mia Vine
yard (Red Mountain). This could be labeled
as Cabernet Franc, since it comprises 80% of the blend.
The youthful lightness of the estate-grown grapes seems
to lift the naturally tannic nature of the variety. It’s clean
and balanced, and it comes with an herbal underpinning. This is best for near-term drinking. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $55
89
Tre Nova 2009 Nebbaro Red Wine (Co
lumbia Valley). The name refers to the blend
of 62% Barbera and 38% Nebbiolo sourced from a pair
of Horse Heaven Hills vineyards. A little high-toned on
the nose, the wine eventually smoothes out in the glass,
and it offers pretty flavors of raspberry and Bing cherry.
Succulent and nicely balanced, this is one of the better Washington examples of these two grapes. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
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Tre Nova 2009 Ripasso Red Wine (Co
lumbia Valley). Barbera, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo comprise the wine. Half of the grapes were air
dried for three months, which is known as appassimento. The Sangiovese was crushed and fermented conventionally before being added to the blend. The result is a
dry, slightly nutty red wine, with tart flavors that are suggestive of fruit leather. It shows good grip and length,
and it comes with just a bit of alcoholic heat. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Washington
State Cuvée Red Wine (Washington). This
blend is comprised of seven varieties that were sourced
from nine vineyards. Despite a hint of green in the tannins and a bit of stem in the fruits, this shows good complexity. Streaks of earth, mineral and licorice mingle
around notes of dried cherry and fig. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $28
Ambassador Vineyard 2010 Estate
Grown Diplomat Red (Red Mountain).
This is a tried-and-true Washington blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Syrah. It is still pulling itself
together, and it marries moderately ripe fruit to herb
and green tea elements. The tannins are astringent, and
there is a hint of leather on the finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $45
Col Solare 2009 Red Table Wine (Colum
bia Valley). This wine incorporates fruit from
Klipsun, Cold Creek and the estate vineyard (among
others). It’s the first time grapes from Col Solare’s vineyard have been included in the blend. It bears ripe
black-cherry and cassis flavors, and it has the acid-tannin balance that will allow it to evolve. At the moment,
the finish seems unresolved, and it turns chalky. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
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Foundry Vineyards 2009 Red Wine (Wal
la Walla Valley). Made in honor of the city
of Walla Walla’s 150th anniversary, this so-called sesquicentennial blend includes 71% Cabernet Sauvignon,
24% Carmenère and 5% Sangiovese. It’s innovative, but
unless you really like the vegetal aspects of Carmenère,
you may find that the dried leaf, bark and forest floor
flavors are overwhelming. Along with all of those notes
comes a core of strawberry preserves. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
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Helix by Reininger 2008 Pomatia (Co
lumbia Valley). A blend of 27% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 27% Syrah and 16% Cabernet
Franc, this is an accessible wine, with cherry, caramel,
chocolate and toast flavors that comprise the heart of
the palate. The best guess is to enjoy it now, as it is probably at or near its drinking peak. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $20
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Tapteil Vineyard 2010 E&E Shaw Vine
yard Blend (Red Mountain). Comprised
of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot,
this single-vineyard Bordeaux-style blend displays ripe,
round, flavorful fruit, along with a leafy component. The
barrel aging has added butterscotch and chocolate notes
to the mix. The wine stops just a bit short, but further
bottle age may help to lengthen the finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $37
88
Tre Nova 2008 Seccopassa (Columbia
Valley). This was fermented using dried Sangiovese and Barbera grapes, which were sourced from
the Ciel du Cheval Vineyard on Red Mountain. Smooth
and spicy, it has sweet tomato, red apple and Italian
herb flavors, supported by firm acids. —P.G.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $45
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Vineyard Red Wine (Columbia Valley).
Part of a Limited Release series, this high-alcohol blend
is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah and the rest a
mix of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The Syrah component takes over, with deep berry fruit that is encased in
rather hard and somewhat herbal tannins. It’s tight and
chewy at the moment. —P.G.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $32
Columbia Crest 2010 H3 Les Chevaux
Red Wine (Horse Heaven Hills). This is
predominantly Merlot, with Cabernet Sauvignon and
Syrah filling out the blend. As with many of the H3
wines, vanilla is the strongest and most noticeable flavor. The fruit is compact, and it tastes like hard cherry
candy. There is plenty of power, but not much subtlety.
—P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
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Columbia Crest 2010 Two Vines MerlotCabernet (Columbia Valley). The Cabernet Franc matches well with the Merlot in this blend.
Dark fruits and polished tannins elevate this well-defined wine. It has no frills but plenty of flavor. Best Buy.
—P.G.
Price: $8
abv: 13.5%
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Upland Estates 2009 Julian (Snipes
Mountain). This Rhône-style blend of 60%
Syrah, 20% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre is soft and
smooth. The fruity, forward palate shows little influence
for having aged for 21 months in barrel, and so the flavors tend to be simple. Notes of red berries, red licorice
and a dash of cayenne are all found. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $28
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Upland Estates 2009 The Mayor (Snipes
Mountain). The Mayor is the winery’s most unusual blend, a mix of Bordeaux and Rhône grapes that’s
aged for 21 months in French, eastern European and
American oak barrels. It’s a mélange of flavors, but the
barrel notes take over in the form of pretty baking spices that don’t quite mask the green and raisiny fruit. Best
to drink soon. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $25
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Mercer Canyons 2009 Red (Columbia
Valley). The blend is largely Merlot, with
splashes of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. There is a strong scent of vanilla that only partially masks the flavors of leaf and stem. Tannic and a bit
earthy, this would be a good wine to pair with a red pasta
sauce. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $17
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Ott & Murphy 2010 Double Bluff Red
Wine (Horse Heaven Hills). Syrah comprises more than half of this spicy, Rhône-style blend, which
also includes Grenache and Cinsault. A scent of wild
berry introduces this wine, which feels sharp and carries
a hint of pickle barrel, though no American oak is indicated. The palate broadens to display a flavor of strawberry compote and a whiff of chocolate. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
Seven Bridges 2009 Prima Nata (Colum
bia Valley). This Bordeaux-style blend includes Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Unusual scents of berry and egg lead to a palate whose flavors have not yet come together. The fruit is there, but
the tannins hit a wall and seem to stop any further development. Further bottle age may help it open. —P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $36
Ott & Murphy NV Mutiny Bay Red Wine
(Columbia Valley). At one time this winery
offered a Bordeaux blend called Mystique; this may be
its replacement. More than half of the blend is Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a difficult wine to evaluate as it currently seems shut down. It offers some spicy red fruit
and a whiff of sweat on the nose. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $24
other red wines
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Maison Bleue 2010 Boushey Vineyard Le
Midi Grenache (Yakima Valley). As excellent as this was was in 2009, the 2010 has reached an almost-ethereal level. The aromatics alone are transportive, with the concentrated essence of raspberries and
blueberries at optimal ripeness. The flavors are deep
and long, elegant and powerful, and they lead into a finish that’s anchored in notes of mineral and dark chocolate. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
Price: $35
abv: 14.5%
91
Kaella 2010 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard
Sangiovese (Red Mountain). There’s much
to admire in this full-bodied, authoritative Sangiovese.
It has the varietal’s leafy tartness, with tangy red and
purple fruits that are bound by zippy acids and tonguetingling phenolics. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $25
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Native Sun 2009 Petit Verdot (Red Moun
tain). For lovers of pure Petit Verdot, this jewel
brings luscious boysenberry, blackberry, espresso, anise
and milk chocolate flavors together on a smooth and
generous palate. The wine demonstrates careful attention to ripeness and balance, and it can probably age for
15 years. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $50
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Spring Valley Vineyard 2010 Sharilee Pe
tit Verdot (Walla Walla Valley). This is the
winery’s first Petit Verdot, and it’s a beauty. Firm and
muscular, it has plenty of blackberry and black cherry
flavors hanging on its tannic bones. The finish shows a
smack of dark chocolate, and the overall structure suggests that this will age for 15 years or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
90
Tre Nova 2008 Bonatello Riserva Sangio
vese (Columbia Valley). This is pure, superripe Sangiovese, and it bears fruit flavors of strawberry
preserves and cherry pie, plus a dash of dark chocolate
and accents of mint and vanilla. It’s big and a bit blocky,
but it’s loaded with fruit. —P.G.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $35
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Ott & Murphy 2009 Petite Sirah (Colum
bia Valley). This is made from fruit that’s
sourced mostly from Mercer’s Spice Cabinet Vineyard
in the Horse Heaven Hills, with some Tablas clone Syrah from the Rattlesnake Hills. It’s a tasty wine but it
seems incomplete. It has a ripe purple-fruit flavor, and
it comes with plenty of power, but there’s a hole in the
middle. The finish kicks in with a splash of molasses.
—P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $41
88
Reininger 2008 Seven Hills Vineyard
Carmenère (Walla Walla Valley). Chuck
Reininger sources the fruit for this wine from what is arguably the best site in the Walla Walla Valley. The wine
does not shy away from the herbal aspect for which
Carmenère is known, but the stemminess is mitigated
thanks to the influence of new French oak. A cherry
candy note consolidates the flavors on the medium-long
finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $47
new york
chardonnay
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Keuka Spring 2010 Chardonnay (Finger
Lakes). Hints of red berry, blossom and grapefruit are beguiling in this bright, fresh Chardonnay. Dry
and surprisingly full bodied, the palate is juicy, with
fresh pear and quince flavors that are brightened by a
splash of lime-tinged acidity. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
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Wagner 2010 Reserve Chardonnay (Fin
ger Lakes). Hints of nut and smoke add savory
tones to the concentrated flavors of apple and quince
in this balanced and luscious Chardonnay. Dry and full
bodied, it has sharp, steely acidity, and a finish that bears
a flurry of sweet biscuit notes. —A.I.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $14
87
McGregor 2010 Unoaked Chardonnay
(Finger Lakes). Lemon zest and wildflower
notes lend a delicate feel to this fresh, steely, unoaked
Chardonnay. It’s a minerally wine, with notes of saline
and crushed oyster shells, and a brisk finish. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $17
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Millbrook 2010 Proprietor’s Special Re
serve 25th Anniversary Chardonnay
(Hudson River Region). Fragrant honeysuckle, lemon and fresh apple aromas waft from this Chardonnay.
It’s creamy and rich on the palate, and it offers notes
of orange blossom, apple and sweet corn, balanced by
brisk, lemony acidity. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
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Peconic Bay Winery 2010 Lowerre Fam
ily Estate La Barrique Chardonnay (North
Fork of Long Island). This curious Chardonnay
transforms rather dramatically in the glass. It’s initially
savory, with notes of dried herbs and leaves, but gradually it reveals touches of fresh lemon, apple and vanilla,
accompanied by dashes of dusty minerals that linger on
the finish. Full bodied and dry. —A.I.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $36
87
Treleaven 2010 Reserve Barrel Ferment
ed Chardonnay (Cayuga Lake). Pretty floral notes mingle enticingly with smoke and nut aromas
in this vanilla-kissed Chardonnay. It’s rich and creamy
on the palate, with concentrated apple flavors and
bright, lemony acids that add vibrancy to the finish.
—A.I.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $18
86
McGregor 2010 Reserve Dry Gewürztra
miner (Finger Lakes). This is a dry, slightly understated version of McGregor’s standard label
Gewürztraminer. It’s elegant and fruity, with flavors of
fresh lychee and peach that are peppered with a dash
of exotic spice. Full bodied, but refreshingly quaffable.
—A.I.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $25
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riesling
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Fox Run 2010 Riesling 11 Lake Dana
Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Although it has a delicate structure, that feels almost lacelike on the palate, this light-bodied Riesling bursts with
concentrated ripe peach and apricot flavors. Semisweet
in style, this has vibrant acidity and an oyster-shell- and
stone-like minerality that lingers on the long finish.
—A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $40
Wagner 2010 Unoaked Chardonnay (Fin
ger Lakes). A nice counterpoint to Wagner’s oaked Reserve Chardonnay, this version is juicy
and bright, offering pristine apple and lemon flavors.
Concentrated and lush on the palate, it’s balanced by
a shower of lemon-lime-like acidity and crushed-stone
minerality. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $11
Leonard Oakes 2010 Chardonnay (New
York). Ripe stone-fruit and flower notes shine
on the nose and palate of this dry, medium-bodied
Chardonnay. Fresh and juicy, it’s an easygoing sipper to
accompany an array of foods. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
85
Lakewood 2010 Chardonnay (Finger
Lakes). On the nose and palate, notes of
smoke and roasted nuts add earthy tones to the touches
of crisp apple and lemon. It’s dry and full bodied, with a
round, soft fruitiness on the finish. —A.I.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $13
Gewürztraminer
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Standing Stone 2010 Gewürztraminer
(Finger Lakes). While this is dry in style, it
exhibits all of the varietal’s ebullient rose and lychee
tones. It has vibrant acidity and an intense, honeyed palate that’s full of rich citrus and tea leaf notes. This is full
bodied, with a lingering finish. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $14
89
Dr. Konstantin Frank 2011 Reserve
Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). A touch of
exotic spice gives a musky appeal to the ripe lychee and
rose petal notes. Lush, languid and semisweet, the palate has a dense, concentrated pink-grapefruit flavor and
soft, lemony acidity that lingers on the palate. —A.I.
Price: $25
abv: 12%
88
McGregor 2011 Gewürztraminer (Finger
Lakes). Ripe and lush, this off-dry Gewürztraminer shows remarkable balance between its acidity and ripeness. It has abundant rose petal, spice and
musk tones, and the exotic spice note intensifies on the
midpalate, before extending toward the jasmine-tea-flavored finish. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $20
86
Lucas Vineyards 2010 Dry Gewürztra
miner (Finger Lakes). Impeccably dry, this
refreshing, brisk and light-bodied Gewürztraminer reveals delicate hints of pink grapefruit, lychee and musk.
Nervy lemon-lime-like acidity lends a crisp, lean feel.
—A.I.
abv: 11.4%
Price: $15
and it balances brisk, lemony acids with ripe yellowpeach and grapefruit flavors. —A.I.
abv: 10.8%
Price: $16
87
Fulkerson 2010 William Vigne Dry Ries
ling (Seneca Lake). Fresh and floral on the
nose and palate, this has loads of white flower and Meyer lemon tones. Dry in style, it builds in intensity on the
palate, with hints of honey, wax and saline-like minerality that linger on the finish. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $14
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Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Vibrant
lemon- and lime-zest notes make this off-dry Riesling
brisk and bright. Chalky minerality and a saline tone
add depth, and there is a pleasantly bitter lemon-peel
note that lingers on the finish. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $30
Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Crushed
chalk and wax notes add a striking minerality to this delicately framed, semisweet Riesling. A juicy wine, it offers an abundance of ripe stone-fruit and citrus flavors,
with an earthen, waxy slick that lingers on the finish.
—A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $30
89
Wagner 2010 Semi Dry Riesling (Finger
Lakes). Exuberant and floral on the nose, this
Riesling is intense and fruity on the palate, with concentrated apple-jelly and peach flavors. Brightened by
lime-inflected acidity, the long finish extends with a delicious waxy streak. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
88
Fulkerson 2010 Dry Riesling (Finger
Lakes). Zesty aromas of fresh lemon and tangerine peel add vibrancy to this brisk, dry Riesling. It’s
elegant and fruity, and it offers loads of crisp green-apple and pear flavors that are accented by dusty minerality. A hint of lime-skin astringency surfaces on the finish.
Best Buy. —A.I.
Price: $13
abv: 11.8%
88
Lucas Vineyards 2010 Dry Riesling (Fin
ger Lakes). Waxy lemon peel and white blossom notes penetrate the nose and palate of this concentrated and structured Riesling. Bold acidity adds a cutting edge to the midpalate before finishing on a zesty
lime note. —A.I.
abv: 11.7%
Price: $14
87
Atwater 2010 Estate Vineyards Riesling
(Finger Lakes). Yeasty, sweet pastry notes are
enticing on the nose of this intense, juicy, off-dry Riesling. It has a delicate structure and a creamy texture,
Heron Hill 2010 Ingle Vineyard Riesling
(Finger Lakes). The nose and palate are
smoky and waxy, with a shimmer of petrol. The palate is
brisk and lemony, with hints of citrus peel, nut oil and
nut skin that linger on the long finish. This dry, savory
Riesling is already showing signs of bottle age. Drink
now. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
Keuka Spring 2010 Riesling (Finger
Lakes). While dainty in structure, this lightfooted Riesling is intense and concentrated, with ripe
stone-fruit and tangerine flavors. Nervy lemon-lime-like acidity and shades of slate and steel add depth and
balance. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $14
Keuka Spring 2010 Semi Sweet Riesling
(Finger Lakes). Ripe yellow-peach and delicate red-berry hints lend a juicy, easygoing fruitiness
to this concentrated Riesling. Soft, pink-grapefruit-like
acidity and a flash of green herb add freshness to the
finish. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $14
87
Six Mile Creek 2010 Semi Dry Riesling
(Finger Lakes). Exuberant and floral, this
Riesling is lush and rich on the palate, and it offers
sweet pink-grapefruit and white-peach flavors that are
offset by a shower of lemony acids. A hint of crushedstone-like minerality adds depth and complexity to the
midpalate. —A.I.
abv: NA
Price: $14
87
Wagner 2010 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes).
White pepper and smoke notes highlight the intense minerality in this steely Riesling. Lemony on the
palate, this is crisp and brisk, and it comes with notes of
wet slate and steel on the finish. —A.I.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $13
86
Lucas Vineyards 2010 Semi-Dry Riesling
(Finger Lakes). While initially a bit musky
and waxy on the nose, this Riesling gains strength on
the palate as it offers rich honey and red apple flavors.
The lemon-lime-like acidity lingers on the finish. —A.I.
abv: 11.6%
Price: $14
86
Montezuma 2010 Riesling (Finger
Lakes). This off-dry Riesling has exuberant
aromas of orange blossoms and ripe red berries. It balances concentrated apple and honey flavors with flashes
of green herbs and brisk, lime-tinged acidity. So light
and dainty, it’s easy to drink. —A.I.
abv: 10.8%
Price: $14
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Casa Larga 2010 Dry Riesling (Finger
Lakes). Fresh mint and menthol notes lend
a herbaceous tone to this dry, slightly grassy Riesling.
Lemon and lime flavors are brisk and clean on the palate. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $11
pinot grigio
89
Channing Daughters 2011 Ramato Pinot
Grigio (Long Island). A musky perfume note
is sultry and exotic in this rich, textured Pinot Grigio,
which was fermented on its skins and matured in oak.
The fruity palate offers penetrating dried-pear, nut oil
and apple flavors, which are layered with citrusy acids
and soft, tea-leaf-like tannins that linger on the finish.
—A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $24
white blends
91
Channing Daughters 2009 Meditazione
(Long Island). Meditazione bursts out of the
glass with a musky, vanilla-spice character that permeates the nose and palate. Fermented in oak with extended skin contact, this is an amber-hued wine that has
bold, tea-leaf-like tannins and a gorgeous acidic edge.
It’s a fascinating effort to be enjoyed over the course of
a long, meditative evening. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $40
90
Channing Daughters 2009 Envelope
(Long Island). Aromatically intense, with
notes of dried peach, orange cream and vanilla, this
blend of Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Malvasia
aims to push the envelope with its rich, almost-fluffy
texture, and its penetrating red-berry, stone-fruit and
citrus flavors. The grapes were crushed by foot, and
skin contact was employed during fermentation. This is
a decadent, unusual, oak-aged orange wine. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $42
spirits
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welcome to gin lane
O
ne gin, two gins, gold gin…blue gin?
Yes, with apologies to Dr. Seuss, this
month’s crop of gins yielded some surprises. In addition to colorful surprises—like
pale-blue gin—new and forthcoming bottlings
show that distillers are pushing the envelope.
While classic London dry gin will never go
out of style, it’s now joined on the shelves by the
growing ranks of American dry gins. In addition
to the required juniper component, gins are now
flavored with a growing array of herbs, spices,
flowers and citrus. There are even savory renditions, such as those infused with briny olives
and chili peppers. And if that’s not enough, golden barrel-aged gins and sweetened gin-based
liqueurs are entering the scene too.
Unlike such spirits as whiskey and brandy,
gin is rarely consumed neat these days. So with
that in mind, particular consideration was given to how the following gins might prove useful in cocktails.
—K ara Newman
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Downslope Distilling Ould Tom Citrus
Flavored Gin (USA; Downslope Distilling,
Centennial, CO). For full review see page 9.
abv: 40%
Price: $35
93
Greenall’s London Dry Gin (England;
W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY).
Smooth, crisp and well balanced, this is a martini-worthy gin. Despite the nearly neutral aroma, look for big
juniper, lemon peel and coriander flavors on the palate.
Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $15
Vincent Van Gogh Gin (The Netherlands;
Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, FL). This is
clear, bright, light and supercitrusy, and using this to
make a gin and tonic, you could conceivably skip adding
extra citrus to the drink. This veers on the sweet side of
the spectrum, and it offers an almost marshmallow-like
flavor, punched up with a light cinnamon spark.
abv: 47%
Price: $27
90
Flight 69 Gin (USA; Treasure Island Dis
tillery, San Francisco, CA). Distilled from
California grapes, this intriguing, fruity and floral gin
finishes smooth and clean, and it offers hints of black
pepper and vanilla on the finish. This would make a
good addition to a Negroni.
abv: 40%
Price: $32
Comb Jarhead Gin (USA; Stilltheone Dis
tillery, Port Chester, NY). Distiller Ed Tiege,
a former Marine, created this limited-edition gin “to
honor the sacrifices the members of the U.S. Armed
Forces have made.” For each bottle sold, he donates
$1.50 to the Wounded Warrior Project. Despite the
hauntingly dark, military-style label, the gin inside is
surprisingly light and delicate. Made from organic
wheat and honey, this has sweet, citrusy flavors, plus anise, black pepper and cardamom notes. Semper Fi.
abv: 45.2%
Price: $28
92
No. 3 London Dry Gin (Holland; Anchor
Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA).
abv: 46%
Price: $40
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Nolet’s Dry Gin (The Netherlands; No
let’s U.S. Distribution, Aliso Viejo, CA).
Distinctly fruity and floral on the palate, this has notes
of rosewater and raspberry, braced by pepper and ginger flecks. This smooth and well-balanced gin is a good
choice for making a berry-forward cocktail like the classic bramble.
abv: 47.5%
Price: $50
92
Bloom Premium London Dry Gin (Eng
land; W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains,
NY). Between the name and the pale-green bottle that
features a tactile vine overlay, you’d anticipate a superfloral flavor profile. Fortunately, the chamomile and
sweet honeysuckle notes are subtle, woven with delicate juniper, grapefruit peel and coriander accents. The
finish is dry and well structured.
abv: 40%
Price: $30
91
Greenhook Ginsmiths Beach Plum Li
queur (USA; Greenhook Ginsmiths,
Brooklyn, NY). Inspired by England’s sloe gin and
made with beach plums from Long Island, New York,
this gin has round, sweet and tart flavors, with an earthy
cinnamon touch on the finish. With its distinctive darkcherry-juice color and aroma, this lends itself to making
fizzes and other cocktails. It’s distilled from cane sugar,
but it’s not supersweet.
abv: 30% Price: $32
Uncle Val’s Botanical Gin (USA; 35 Ma
ple Street, Sonoma, CA). For full review see
page 9.
abv: 45%
Price: $40
89
Breucklen Distilling Glorious Gin (USA;
Breucklen Distilling Company, Brooklyn,
NY). Distilled from 100% New York wheat, this brisk,
perky gin is bright and sweet, and it offers notes of candied lemon peel and rosemary, plus a warm touch of
anise.
abv: 45%
Price: $41
89
Greenhook Ginsmiths American Dry Gin
(USA; Greenhook Ginsmiths, Brooklyn,
NY). This spicy, flavorful Brooklyn gin starts out light,
with an upfront, fleeting, fruity sweetness, but powerful flavors of juniper, black pepper, coriander and anise
quickly rush forward. Combine this with tonic or another mixer to tame the alcohol heat.
abv: 47%
Price: $49
89
Half Moon Orchard Gin (USA; Tuthill
town Spirits, Gardiner, NY). From the upstate New York distiller best known for creating Hudson Baby Bourbon comes this crisp and appealing gin,
which is packaged in an attractive, nautical-themed bottle. The aromas are of citrus and anise, although on the
palate the anise thrusts forward to overshadow the citrus note. The gin is distilled from a mix of 80% wheat
and 20% apples. Although there’s nothing apple-y about
the flavor profile, the wheat yields a flavorful mix of piquant spices on the finish. Ideal for briny olive-spiked
martinis.
abv: 46%
Price: $37/1 L
88
Edinburgh Gin (Scotland; Frederick Wild
man & Sons, New York, NY). For full review
see page 9.
abv: 43%
Price: $35
Comb 9 Gin (USA; Stilltheone Distill
ery, Port Chester, NY). Distilled from honey,
this smooth New York dry gin is on the gentle side. Although it starts with a warm licorice note, it concedes
to sweetness on the palate, with black pepper, lavender
and candied lemon peel flavors. It has balanced alcohol
and relatively neutral aromas.
abv: 47%
Price: $35
90
88
90
Smugglers’ Notch Gin Blend 802 (USA;
Smugglers’ Notch Distillery, Jefferson
ville, VT). This is scented with a lively mix of juniper,
citrus and anise aromas, and on the palate, the anise
note pushes forward, and it finishes with a candied citrus-peel touch. It’s a small-batch gin with a velvety texture, and it’s recommended for gimlets and other citrusforward cocktails.
abv: 44%
Price: $29
Ingenium Gin (USA: New England Dis
tilling, Portland, ME). “Any guesses on the
botanicals?” distiller Ned Wight asked. This could be a
challenging drinking game. The only clue on the label
is that it’s made with “traditional and nontraditional botanicals,” including “a few extras” that Ned picked up
on his travels through Southeast Asia. The base of the
gin is bold and distinctly earthy, with malt and warm anise notes, plus juniper, mint, white pepper and lemon
grass hints.
abv: 47%
Price: $40
88
Kinsey Distilled Dry Gin (Scotland; W.J.
Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY). The
aroma is bright, fresh, and piney, with a hint of green
apple. By comparison, the flavor is relatively neutral,
and it offers a bit of fruity green-apple sweetness that
builds pleasantly onto the finish.
abv: 40%
Price: $13
WineMag.com | 71
87
Junipero Gin (USA; Anchor Distilling
Company, San Francisco, CA). “San Francisco’s original craft gin,” as Junipero is billed, features
a light, piny fragrance and a pungent, earthy flavor, with
loads of anise and a good wallop of alcohol.
abv: 49.3%
Price: $35
87
Myer Farm Gin (USA; Myer Farm Dis
tillers, Ovid, NY). This small-batch, estategrown “field-to-flask” gin bears a passing resemblance
to its malty cousin, genever. It has a bold anise aroma
and flavor, and a warm, almost buttery feel.
abv: 42.7%
Price: $32
86
Black Zephyr Gin (England; MHW Ltd.,
Manhasset, NY). This smooth, versatile mixer
has a neutral aroma and a gentle, lightly floral flavor that
mixes citrus and ginger notes. The botanicals include
elderflower and elderberry.
abv: 44%
Price: $35
85
Blu Zephyr (England; MHW Ltd., Manhas
set, NY). The pale robin’s-egg blue hue, which
is derived from iris flowers, is no doubt this gin’s most
striking feature. Infused with elderberry and gardenia,
this has flavors of sweet-tasting but ersatz ripe fruit, and
it has a drying feel. Still, this should make for some colorful cocktails.
abv: 40%
Price: $30
Beer
pale ales: don’t let the name fool you
M
erriam-Webster Dictionary defines
“pale” as “deficient in color or intensity
of color, not bright or brilliant,
feeble, faint or deficient in chroma.” Synonyms
include dull, faded, light and washed-out. Pair
that with the word ale, and innocent drinkers
are apt to assume that the resulting product
is a light, soft, easy-drinking selection of little
intensity, complexity and character. In other
words, fizzy pale-yellow stuff.
For many pale ales, nothing could be further
from the truth. They cover a wide spectrum of
colors, ranging from light gold to medium copper and all shades in between. And while they
may not have the over-the-top character of their
IPA brethren, pale ales are by no means lacking
in flavor and distinction.
American versions typically have prominent
fruity, floral and citrusy hop characteristics of
varying intensity and vividly express the hop varieties that are used. Proportionate amounts of
malt balance the hoppiness.
English pale ales typically show stronger malt
and caramel notes, softer English hop profiles
and less aggressive carbonation than American
offerings.
The intensity of the beer depends on the
brewer, but flavorful and complex pale ales are
available, especially in the craft-beer market.
They can be full of hop and malt characters while
remaining crisp and balanced. With alcohol levels that range from 4–7% and a pronounced but
not overpowering profile, these brews are versatile enough to pair with meats and cheeses, and
they are perfect for entertaining.
Pale can be bold and beautiful, but above all,
pale can be delicious.
Prost!
—Lauren Buzzeo
92
ber color, with a cream-hued head that lingers. Earthy
and floral hop aromas lead on the nose, while the palate
boasts flavors of sweet orange oil and dried flowers that
mingle seamlessly with sweet grains and toasted biscuits. The mouthfeel is smooth and easy, with a creamy
texture that’s balanced by medium carbonation and a
rich but dry finish. It’s well balanced and versatile for
pairing with food; try it with flank-steak fajitas or Thai
peanut noodles.
abv: 5.6%
Deschutes Mirror Pond Pale Ale (Amer
ican Pale Ale; Deschutes Brewery, OR).
Another classic from Deschutes, this pale ale is remarkably balanced and approachable. It pours a gorgeous golden-honey color, with a frothy off-white
head that lingers. The Cascade hops are upfront but
not overwhelming, with orange blossom, grapefruit rind
and soft pine aromas framed against a dry, malty backdrop. The medium-weight mouthfeel blends those hopfueled characteristics with flavors of toasted bread and
malted barley. Medium carbonation keeps the palate
fresh and lively, and a light nutty flavor remains through
the finish. Best Buy.
abv: 5%
92
New Glarus Moon Man No Coast Pale Ale
(American Pale Ale; New Glarus Brewing
Company, WI). For full review see page 9. Best Buy.
abv: 5%
91
Founders Dry Hopped Pale Ale (Ameri
can Pale Ale; Founders Brewing, WI).
This dry-hopped selection offers upfront hop-derived
aromas of citrus, fresh-cut grass and piny florals on
the nose, making it an ideal choice for hopheads looking for a break from traditional IPAs. Similar flavors
unfold on the palate, with medium carbonation to keep
the resiny and astringent characteristics lifted and approachable. A hint of caramel-like malty sweetness
makes a quick appearance on the finish, but is followed
by a lasting kick of bitter grapefruit peel.
abv: 5.4%
90
Smuttynose Shoals Pale Ale (American
Pale Ale; Smuttynose Brewing Company,
NH). This robust yet clean pale ale pours a light am-
88
Uinta Wyld Extra Pale Ale (American Pale
Ale; Uinta Brewing, UT). This extra pale ale
is meant to be lighter bodied and lower in alcohol than
its non-extra brethren, but don’t mistake that to mean
it’s lighter on flavor. The brew is aggresively dry-hopped
to display more fresh hop characteristics, and those aromas and flavors certainly take center stage. Notes of
pressed yellow florals, fresh pine needles, grapefruit
rind and grass abound, although accents of stone fruit,
biscuit dough and hay unfold on the medium-weight
palate. It finishes clean and somewhat short, making
this a refreshing option for warm weather enjoyment.
USDA-certified organic.
abv: 4%
86
Double Take Pale Ale (American Pale Ale;
Brewmaster’s Choice, NY). This hearty pale
ale would be a great choice for sharp cheeses or porkchops with applesauce. A hazy golden-orange color in
the glass, the hop profile is pronounced on the nose and
in the mouth, with forward astringency that remains
through the close. Citrus oil and soft pine-resin notes
dominate, but the malt backbone provides just enough
sweet, grainy flavors to keep it from feeling overly dry
or bitter.
abv: 5.3%
89
Shiner Wild Hare Pale Ale (American Pale
Ale; Spoetzl Brewery, TX). Typically known
for their lagers, this is Spoetzl’s first foray into ales.
High-alpha Bravo and delicate U.S. Golding hops were
used in the kettle and fermenter, resulting in a balanced
brew with both upfront and nuanced hop notes of citrus
peel, pressed flowers and soft grass. It’s balanced and
sessionable, and the lightly toasted-malt core is laced
with fruity accents of caramel, pear, melon and orange
slices. Medium bodied with a crisp, dry finish.
abv: 5.5%
88
Hangar 24 Craft Brewery Amarillo Pale
Ale (American Pale Ale; Hangar 24
Craft Brewery, CA). This brew uses malted barley
from the midwest and highly aromatic Amarillo hops
from the northwest. The hops are added both during the brewing process as well as post-fermentation,
resulting in a hoppy but not overly bitter experience.
It’s a smooth but concentrated ale that offers loads of
hop-driven aromatics against a toasted-grain and biscuity malt frame. A hint of sweet orange oil flavor unfolds
on the finish. Try with lemon- and herb-roasted chicken
or spiced pork tenderloin.
abv: 5.5%
WineMag.com | 73

buying guide - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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